The Only Recognized Trademarks for Textile Shrinkage

The Only Recognized Trademarks for Textile Shrinkage Control
THE SANFORIZED TRADEMARK IS REGISTERED IN OVER 100 COUNTRIES AND
KNOWN AT BOTH TRADE AND CONSUMER LEVELS GLOBALLY.
• Quality assurance for manufacturers,
consumers and buyers
• A dedicated team of technical specialists
• Established global shrinkage standards
WHAT IS "SANFORIZED"?
The Sanforized trademark was first registered in the
United States of America in 1930. Today the trademark is
registered in over 100 countries worldwide. Our extensive
network of global licensees uses the trademark on both
100% cotton and cotton-blend fabrics which meet
special test requirements and conform to a precise
standard of shrinkage established by The Sanforized
Company.
Manufacturers of garments made of these fabrics may
label their merchandise Sanforized. Thus the retailer and
the ultimate consumer can tell at a glance that the fabric
in a garment so labeled will not shrink out of fit.
This is uniformly true everywhere in the world, wherever
cotton and cotton-blend merchandise is produced and
sold, because the same processing, testing and inspection
procedures are carried out with each and every licensee.
Sanforized technical service representatives perform
constant inspection and check-testing at the plants of
textile mills licensed to produce "Sanforized" fabrics. This
insures that a uniform standard is maintained.
The Sanforized trademarks are known at both trade and
consumer levels worldwide because of their universal
assurance of quality. Textile users — manufacturers,
retailers, and consumers — have confidence in
Sanforized. They ask for it. They have been asking for it
for more than 70 years.
The Sanforized license program is unique and without
parallel in the textile and apparel industries. Our leadership and expertise in quality shrinkage control are wellknown in every major textile market of the world.
WHAT CAUSES SHRINKAGE?
During spinning, weaving, bleaching, dyeing and the
various finishing processes, yarns and cloth are under a
continuous tension.
Yarns and/or fabrics are not fixed materials. They consist
of separate, stretchable fibers which submit to the
tension. In other words, fabrics do stretch in length and
width. The tension within the yarns, which is caused by
this stretching, can be eliminated when the friction
within the fabric is reduced. This reduction in friction
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The process can be described by the schematic below.
occurs during laundering
where both water and
soap act as a lubricant. The
lubricant, along with the
mechanical action of the
washer, helps the fibers
relax and contract to their
original length before the
elongation takes place.
This means that the fabric
shrinks and recaptures its
original equilibrium.
Fabric (F) passes through the skyer (S) or other moistening device and is moistened by water and/or steam. This
will lubricate the fibers and promote shrinkability within
the fabric. Normally, a fabric must be moistened in such a
way that every single thread achieves a moisture content
of approximately 15%. This allows compression of the
fabric with very little resistance.
© Bierbaum Wohnen
CONTROLLED COMPRESSIVE
SHRINKAGE PROCESS
The internationally well-known and most important
shrinking process today dates back more than 70 years.
Though the correct expression for this process is Controlled Compressive Shrinkage, the average person
knows it as SANFORIZED. The process is a purely mechanical treatment without any addition of chemicals.
The word SANFORIZED is derived from the first name of
the inventor of the compressive shrinkage process, Mr.
Sanford L. Cluett.
The Sanforized Company, a division of Cluett Peabody &
Co., Inc., New York, USA, is sole owner of the registered
trademarks Sanforized, Sanfor and Sanforizado.
The Sanforized label means dimensional stability for
garments made up of Sanforized labeled fabrics.
The purpose of the process is to shrink fabrics in such a
way that textiles made up of these fabrics do not shrink
during washing.
The amount of potential wash shrinkage must be
determined prior to shrinking. A full width sample is
wash-tested according to the test method. After the
lengthwise and widthwise shrinkage has been determined, the compressive shrinkage machine can be
adjusted accordingly.
When the fabric passes through the clip expander (C), we
obtain the required width. The clip expander also transports the fabric to the most important part of the
machine: the rubber belt unit (indicated by arrows in
above figure). In the close-up of fig. 1, we see the
endless rubber belt (R). By squeezing rubber belt (R)
between pressure roll (P) and rubber belt cylinder (RB),
we obtain an elastical stretching of the rubber belt
surface. The more we squeeze the rubber belt, the more
the surface is stretched. This point of squeezing is known
as the pressure zone, or the nip point.
Fabric (F) is now fed into the pressure zone. When
leaving the pressure zone, the rubber belt recovers itself
and the surface returns to its original length carrying the
fabric with it. The effect of this action is a shorting of the
warp yarn which packs the filling yarns closer together.
At this actual moment, shrinkage occurs.
After compaction within the rubber belt unit, the fabric
enters the dryer (D). Here the fibers are locked in their
shrunken state by removing the moisture from the fabric.
After the compressive shrinkage process is completed,
another sample of the fabric is taken. This sample is also
wash-tested. The final result of this test must meet the
Sanforized Standard in length and width before it may
carry the Sanforized label.
All Sanforized Licensees are contractually obligated to
follow the required test method and meet the standards
set forth by The Sanforized Company.
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SHRINKAGE STANDARDS FOR WOVEN
AND KNIT FABRICS
Standards for Shrinkage of Sanforized
Labeled Woven Fabrics
Woven fabrics shall not either shrink or gain in excess of
1% in either the warpwise or the weftwise direction when
subjected to the wash-test method of the United States
Federal specification number CCC-T-191A or ISO 675.
Standards for Shrinkage of Sanfor-Knit
Labeled Knit Fabrics
Printed ISO test methods
are under copyright! Please
contact your nearest ISO
office or contact us and
we’ll be glad to give you
an address where you can
obtain a copy.
(For Germany: BeuthVerlag, Berlin Tel: 030/
260101)
Knit fabrics shall not either shrink or gain in excess of 5%
in either the longitudinal or the cross direction when
subjected to the wash-test AATCC 135-1987 or ISO 6330
(60 degree, tumble dry).
A GUIDE TO SANFORIZED LABELING
Who May Use the Sanforized Trademark?
Textile mills are licensed to apply the Sanforized trademark to those fabrics which conform to specified test
requirements. In addition, the Sanforized trademark may
be used by manufacturers to identify garments cut from
Sanforized-labeled fabrics, and retailers in their selling
and advertising.
Use of Sanforized
by Textile Mills
Textile Mills licensed to use
the trademark can identify
their Sanforized fabrics
with the label Sanforized.
The label, which must be
applied to the end of each
piece of fabric, states that
Sanforized is a checked
standard of shrinkage.
Many mills also stamp
Sanforized at intervals on
the selvage of the cloth.
Use of Sanforized by Manufacturers
Manufacturers who make up garments wholly of
Sanforized fabric may identify the garments as
Sanforized. The right to such identification is conferred
by the appearance of the standard label on each roll of
fabric the garment is made from. In addition, the invoice
for the fabric must clearly say "Sanforized."
Use of Sanforized
by Retailers
Retailers purchasing
garments identified as
Sanforized may use the
trademark in advertisements, on counter cards,
in bill-stuffers and all other
material employed to
promote the sale of the
garment. For the retailer's
protection, and to avoid
illegal use of the mark, the
retailer should make sure
that each individual
garment carries Sanforized identification. It is
recommended to specify such identification on the
purchase order.
The Importance of Sanforized Labeling
To consumers all over the world, the word Sanforized, or
Sanfor, on a fabric or a garment has strong sales appeal.
Experience has taught them that the trademark promises
good performance from a shrinkage standpoint. A
Sanforized garment can be washed repeatedly without
loss of original style or fit. This means longer garment
life, greater economy, and more value for the money
spent.
In view of this, the manufacturer who makes a line of
Sanforized garments, but does not identify them as such,
is depriving both himself and the retail customer of an
extremely powerful visual sales tool — one that has
become more and more important in this day of less
personal selling.
There are many different ways in which manufacturers
label their garments as Sanforized. Among them are:
inclusion of the trademark on the manufacturer's own
sew-in neck label or hang-tag; separate hang-tags;
gummed tickets; gummed labels, etc. The exact method
usually depends on the type of merchandise.
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SANFORIZED TECHNICAL SERVICES
One key element of our system is the continuous in-plant
technical services provided each Sanforized licensee. This
service is important, in part, because of constant change
and improvements in finishing of all types of cotton
fabrics and blends. Our worldwide staff of technical
representatives is, of necessity, specializing in keeping
abreast of these changing conditions. This enables them
to adapt new finishing formulas, processing techniques,
and other means necessary to achieve proper shrinkage
control.
These technical representatives make regularly scheduled
service visits to licensees. Also, they are frequently asked
to resolve problems which can and do arise between
their regular visits. It’s important to note that because of
the varying technical nature of shrinkage control, these
requests come from licensees of many years’ experience
as well as from new licensees.
In addition to the technical services provided each
licensee, our technical representatives are frequently
called upon to help improve garment manufacturing,
fabric handling, and laundering techniques – all of which
seriously affect shrinkage.
The importance and the difficulties of quality shrinkage
control must not be underestimated. It cannot be claimed
that the Sanforized system is perfect. It can be emphatically stated, however, that the Sanforized program
represents by far the best and most consistent shrinkage
control available. Thus, it is the best protection against
costly shrinkage complaints, resulting in loss of good will
and customers.
Machine Audits
Machine audits are an in-depth examination of the
mechanical condition of a machine, the operating
procedures of the machine, record keeping for the
machine, fabric preparation, fabric testing, spare parts,
etc. The highlights of the audit specifically address
problems in the following areas:
• Safety
• Machine defects which may affect fabric quality
• Machine defects which may result in down time
TECHNICAL SERVICE HIGHLIGHTS
Routine Visits
A Sanforized representative will make routine visits to
each licensee at no additional cost to the licensee. These
visits may include fabric testing,training of personnel,
fabric finishing trials, and technical advice on a wide
variety of subjects related to shrinkage control.
Special Visits
Our technical service personnel are available to the
licensee for a special visit at the request of the licensee.
Special visits on short notice or for an extended period of
time may result in nominal charges to cover travel
expenses.
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POTENTIAL COST SAVINGS
FOR LICENSEES
Reduced Seconds
Improper maintenance or operation of CSRs (Compressive Shrinkage Range machines) can result in second
quality fabric due to improper shrinkage (too high or too
low), compaction marks, water spots, yellowing, improper skewing, inadequate width control, etc. The
Sanforized Company representatives work with the
licensees to solve these problems.
Less Reruns
A rerun is usually a batch
of fabric which is first
quality, except for the
shrinkage. Getting the
shrinkage right the first
time prevents reruns. For
some fabrics, reshrinking
the fabric can produce a
second, or off-quality,
fabric. Common problems
due to reprocessing fabric
are alteration of the hand, alteration of the appearance,
and loss of finished width (too narrow according to the
specification).
Less Unscheduled Downtime
The CSR audit is a very effective means by which a mill
can pinpoint mechanical problems and repair them
before they result in unscheduled downtime. Areas of
high wear and/or failure rates can be devised.
High Speed
By optimizing the machine parameters under which a
particular fabric is processed, the mill can sometimes
realize an improvement in the operating speed of the
machine.
SANFORIZED LICENSEE
AGREEMENT SUMMARY
Field
Technical Services
Non-exclusive use of the Sanfor, Sanforized and SanforKnit trademarks. Non-exclusive use of Licensor’s knowledge, information, experience, techniques and advice on
the compressive shrinkage process together with the
equipment, for use in finishing and shrinking of textile
fabrics.
Sanforized Company personnel instruct licensee in proper
practices of the shrinkage process, operation of equipment, and testing procedures for maintaining the
established standard.
Licensee
Sanforized Company grants a non-exclusive license to use
the techniques for treating textile fabrics under the
trademark and to sell such labeled fabrics worldwide.
Equipment
Sanforized Company personnel inspect licensees’ machinery and recommend modifications, if required, to qualify
equipment to treat fabric in accordance with the established standards of The Sanforized Company.
Reports
Licensee will submit royalty reports on a quarterly basis.
Compensation
A minimum annual fee will be established. For more
information please contact the Sanforized representative
in your area.
Term
The initial term of the agreement shall be negotiated
with an option for automatic renewal six months prior to
expiration.
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SANFORD L. CLUETT, 1874-1968
Sanford L. Cluett changed
the way America looked.
He helped put an end to
exposed wrists and ankles,
constricted waistlines and
busting buttons. The
invention that bears his
name, "Sanforized" fabric,
made it possible to wash
clothes over and over
again without shrinkage.
Born in 1874 in Troy, NY, Cluett was a nephew of the
three Cluetts who started the detachable collar and shirt
making giant in the city. He did not join in the family
business until he was 45 years old.
His background was as varied and intriguing as the
indefatigable curiosity that led him to become an inventor with 200 patents in his name.
"If more people would get curious and open their eyes
and ears and minds, they would be much happier and
incidentally, more successful," he once said.
When he was 10, he surveyed and mapped Raquette
Lake in the Adirondack Mountains using a carpenter's
level, some metal screw eyes and a music stand. As a
teenager, he lived in Florida for a number of years
because of ill health. While there, he hunted the swamps
for alligators, befriended the Seminoles and learned their
language, and became an expert marksman.
After dropping aspirations of a career in medicine, he
later attended Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute where he
pioneered investigations into ballistics. After graduation,
he entered the Spanish-American War to work in the
engineering corps. He went on to do much of the key
engineering design work for the Big Sandy River Dam
project in Kentucky, where he reportedly was almost shot
by suspicious mountain folk who thought he was a
revenuer. At the age of 27, he became chief engineer of
an upstate New York harvesting machine company,
inventing new and improved designs.
Cluett joined his uncles' business in 1919. Troy factories
were cranking out 3 million detachable collars a week
then, shipping them all over the world. But in the 1920’s,
people were getting used to wearing soft collars attached
to shirts. Collar sales were plummeting. The company
tried to get into collar-attached shirts but had to deal
with the defect of shrinkage when they were washed. No
one would buy pre-washed shirts. Cluett needed to find
a way to shrink the shirts before they were washed.
Cluett concluded the cause of shrinkage was the stretching of fabric in the manufacturing process. When the
fabric was washed, it returned to its normal state. He
developed a "compressive shrinkage process" that soon
carried the trademark "Sanforized," named for its
inventor. Cluett Peabody & Co., Inc. licensed the process
and made it available to everybody in the textile industry.
Suddenly, people could be sure when they bought a
garment that it would fit them for as long as they owned
it. Previously, fitting new clothes was mostly guesswork.
The only certainty was the garment was going to shrink.
The innovation launched “Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc.”
into its second generation as Arrow collars were replaced
by Arrow shirts.
Sanford Cluett died in 1968 in Florida.
Cluett was famous as a meticulous man who made
written records of his every thought. According to one
story, after a lunch meeting with businessmen talking
about one of his inventions, he returned to retrieve the
tablecloth on which he had sketched some ideas. He had
the tablecloth notarized and kept it. It was later used as
evidence in a patent suit.
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SANFORIZED WORLDWIDE LOCATIONS AND SUPPLIERS
North America
Ms. Maureen Scanlon
GTB Holding Corp.
48 West 38th Street
New York, NY 10018
U.S.A.
Tel: 646-735-2242
Fax: 212-984-8940
E-mail: [email protected]
Latin America
Mr. Gabriel Siedemburg
The Sanforized Company
Casilla de Correo No. 10943, Suc 2
Montevideo, Uruguay
Tel & Fax: 598-2-4878-496
E-mail: [email protected]
Europe, Asia, and Africa
Mr. Alwin Schmidt
Sanfor Service
Mittelgasse 3
91239 Henfenfeld
Germany
Tel: 49-9151-6215
Fax: 49-9151-6229
E-mail: [email protected]
Supplier of Shrinkage Markers
Benchmark Devices Inc.
3305 Equestrian Trail
Marietta, Ga. 30064
Tel: 770-795-0042
Fax: 770-421-8401
E-mail: [email protected]