global kitchen.

global kitchen.
In the region known as Italy’s ‘Food Valley’, you’ll
find picturesque Parma – an enchanting city lauded
for its pasta, prosciutto and parmesan cheese.
words Carla capalbo recipes luca ciano location Photography brett stevens food Photography jeremy simons
122 delicious.
global flavours.
Cafes line the streets in Parma’s car-free,
historical town centre. Opposite: There’s
plenty to taste at Casale del Groppone.
global flavours.
kitchen.
Step into any food shop in Parma and you’ll immediately
know you’re in food-lover’s heaven. This small Renaissance
city is the birthplace of two of the brightest jewels in Italy’s
gastronomic crown: parmesan cheese and Parma ham.
“Ever since Hannibal fortified his troops with prosciutto
for an important battle, it’s been part of our cultural heritage.
For us, man’s best friend is the pig,” exclaims a finely dressed
woman standing in line for un etto (100 grams) of prosciutto.
Tradition has it that the best way to savour this sweet yet
mellow delight is to cut it paper-thin, then eat it with either
fresh bread or melon and figs.
Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese are
protected by the coveted DOP status that ties handmade
products to their area of origin. You’ll find these local heroes
everywhere – in wine bars, served before meals as aperitivi,
and in trattorias and restaurants, where they appear in
countless dishes. If you’re renting a car, you can visit the
farms and dairies where they’re produced (for details,
visit: prosciuttodiparma.com and parmigianoreggiano.com).
124 delicious.
Parma is nestled in the valley of the Po river (northern
Italy’s most important river) as it travels east towards
the Adriatic Sea near Venice. This vein of water makes the
surrounding land lush and fertile, and brings summer mists
and winter fogs to the town, creating a mysterious, romantic
atmosphere. The city centre is unchanged from its medieval
boundaries, so the main sights are all within walking distance
of the Romanesque Duomo and its unique, octagonal-shaped
pink marble Baptistery.
Food and art are never far apart in Italy, and Parma offers
plenty for music lovers, too. The great 19th-century composer
Giuseppe Verdi was born nearby, and the town celebrates his
work with an opera festival every autumn. Arturo Toscanini,
the legendary conductor, is also from Parma, and his house is
now a museum. The city also has much to offer to those who
appreciate visual arts, so you can punctuate visits to Parma’s
many churches and galleries – including several museums
within Palazzo della Pilotta – with pit stops to refuel at
eateries that showcase the region’s great food and wine.
where to eat
Parma has every level of eatery,
from rustic osterias and family-run
trattorias to more refined restaurants
where young chefs are reinvigorating
the local cuisine in creative ways. If
you’re looking for a light meal, many
bars throughout the town offer simple
paninis or plates of meat and cheese.
Don’t miss Parma’s handmade filled
pastas, amazing range of cured meats,
and parmesan cheese in various
stages of aging, from the minimum of
12 months to three years, when it gains
an almost crystalline structure.
It takes 600 litres of cows’ milk
to produce one 40-kilo round of
Parmigiano Reggiano, also known
as ‘the king of cheeses’. The cheese is
immediately recognisable as authentic
by virtue of the Consortium’s name
branded onto the rind.
For an informal lunch to break up
all the sightseeing, Osteria della Gatta
Matta (Borgo Degli Studi 9, +39 0521
231 475) is an ideal choice. Enjoy a
plate of pasta or savoury parmesan
pudding, followed by a seafood salad.
The homemade desserts diverge from
Italy’s traditional flavours, and show
some delightful imagination, including
an aromatic cardamom panna cotta.
From far left: Torrechiara Castle; Emanuele
Monica at Consorzio Produttori Latte;
Casale del Groppone; gnocco fritto, salumi
and Parmigiano Reggiano at Gallo d’Oro.
A short cab ride from the centre is
Parma Trattoria Ai Due Platani (Strada
Budellungo 104, +39 0521 645 626).
Go for authentic Emilian food cooked
by two young chefs. Their tortelli
pasta stuffed with pumpkin, and
gnocchi with nettle pesto take pasta to
another level. For dessert, try sbrisolona
the scrumptious crumbly cake that’s
a specialty of the region.
Parizzi is the place to go for a special
night out (Via Repubblica 71, +39 0521
285 952). Marco Parizzi is a young chef
often seen on Italian TV. His family
restaurant offers the most ambitious
cooking in Parma, with tasting menus
from the sea and land where great
initiative is taken with seasonal
ingredients. He also does classics such
as anolini in brodo (meat-filled pasta in
broth), and there’s a fabulous wine list.
For generous, traditional Emilian
fare, go to homely I Tri Siochètt (Strada
Farnese 74, +39 0521 968 870) just outside
the city centre. Here the antipasti are
worth exploring, including gnocco fritto
(crispy, fried batter dumplings), to
accompany platters of local salumi.
of
5 tastes
parma
1.The Prosciutto di Parma at Salumifico La Perla. Visit: salumificolaperla.it.
2.The Parmigiano Reggiano at Consorzio Produttori Latte. Tel: +39 0521 601 313.
3.The pumpkin tortelli with millefiori
honey at Casale del Groppone. Visit: casaledelgroppone.it.
4.The antipasti platter at Gallo d’Oro.
Borgo Salina 3, +39 0521 208 846.
5.The balsamic vinegar at Villa San
Donnino, a 1-hour drive out of
town. Visit: villasandonnino.com.
delicious. 125
Clockwise: pedal power is a great way to get
around; apartments in the heart of town;
La Perla owner Fabrizio Lanfranchi; Parco
Ducale; pasta drying at the Barilla factory.
learn the lingo
Here are a few words and phrases to help as you eat and drink your way
around Parma.
Alla parmigiana food prepared in a Parma style, usually by adding
grated cheese and butter
Bicchiere di vino glass of wine
Brodo broth
Caseificio cheesemaking dairy
Dov’è il mercato Where is the market?
Menu degustazione tasting menu
Merenda a mid-morning or afternoon snack
Posso assaggiare? Can I taste it?
Prosciuttificio ham-curing factory
Ripieno di… stuffed with… (when
talking about filled pasta)
Salumi salt-cured pork products
Tortelli di zucca a type of pumpkinfilled pasta
Un etto di… 100 grams of… (a measure
for buying ham or other foods)
Una fetta di… a slice of…
126 delicious.
where to shop
Parma is home to Barilla, Italy’s
favourite producer of dried pasta,
which is exported all over the world.
The Barilla factory is so large, the
employees use bicycles to get around
it. Barilla’s ‘N5’ spaghetti is their
most popular pasta and eaten in vast
quantities up and down Italy’s boot.
At the Academia Barilla (Largo
Calamandrei 3a, +39 0521 264 060,
academiabarilla.com), you can sign up
to day courses to learn about the food
of Parma, take a cooking class, or join a
tour to visit nearby food producers. You
can also stock up on Academia Barilla’s
selection of the best local artisanal
goodies, from fine olive oil and balsamic
vinegar to Parmigiano Reggiano and
Prosciutto di Parma, of course.
Italians use every part of the pig in
their salt-cured salumi and you can
sample them all in shops around Parma.
Try culatello, a top-end salumi made
from the tender rump.
Salumeria Garibaldi (Strada Garibaldi
42, +39 0521 235 606) sells a vast array of
foods, plus cooked dishes to take away.
And with the huge range of cheeses from
Italy and beyond at Casa del Formaggio
(Strada Nino Bixio 106, +39 0521 230 243)
you’ll have all you need for the perfect
picnic in the Parco Ducale.
Drogheria Gianfranco Pedrelli (Via La
Spezia 53a, +39 0521 253 894) sells wines,
jams and many other artisanal foods.
Then, head over to Pasticceria Cocconi
(Strada della Repubblica 22, +39 0521 230
351) for great pastries and espresso.
For fresh produce, visit daily markets
scattered throughout town, or the Sunday
market in the Piazzale Matteotti.
global flavours.
Clockwise: Piazza Garibaldi; Cattedrale di
Parma; Palazzo della Pilotta; barrels of aged
balsamic vinegar at Villa San Donnino.
the grand tour
where to drink
Emilia-Romagna may not be Italy’s
best known wine region, but its range
is making its way into the spotlight. At
the heart of the Emilian table is the red
lambrusco, a lightly sparkling, lowalcohol wine that goes surprisingly well
with the rich foods on offer. The area’s
most important still red is Sangiovese di
Romagna, with a distinct character that
separates it from its Tuscan cousin. It
comes in four versions, from the young
Novello to the barrel-aged Riserva. You
can try them and other Italian drops at
Parma’s many wine bars, called enotecas.
Don’t miss the relaxed wine bar
Bottiglia Azzurra (Borgo Felino 63,
+39 0521 285 842). You’ll recognise it by
the large sign of a blue bottle hanging
over the doorway. Have a glass of wine
accompanied by a plate of pasta or a
cheese sampler.
Enoitalia (Viale Duca Alessandro 43,
+39 0521 463 208) is the perfect shop for
wine lovers, selling everything from great
bottles to openers and other gadgets.
where to stay
To experience Parma as the noblity did,
stay in one of seven elegant suites at
Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati Residence
(Strada al Duomo 7a, +39 0521 502 204,
palazzodallarosaprati.it, from $250 per
double), bang in the centre of town.
The newly renovated Hotel Stendhal
(Via Bodoni 3, +39 0521 208 057,
hotelstendhal.it, from $175 per double
including breakfast) has antique-style
rooms and terrific breakfast buffets. It’s
located near Palazzo della Pilotta.
Villino di Porporano (Strada Bodrio
26, +39 0521 642 268, from $140 including
breakfast, villinodiporporano.com) is a
modern B&B in a small villa, just a short
drive from the town centre. It offers
the perfect base for touring the food
producers in the Parma countryside
Thanks to Barilla for their assistance.
Once you’ve finished eating and
drinking your way around town, there
are still plenty of sights to take in.
Set on a high perch overlooking the
Parma valley, Torrechiara Castle
dates back to the 15th century. The castle’s interior is covered with
frescos depicting fantastical scenes,
and its towers have breathtaking
views of the surrounding countryside.
Located in the centre of town,
Cattedrale di Parma is a stunning
example of Romanesque architecture.
Don’t miss Renaissance-master
Corregio’s beautiful fresco on the
dome. Across the Parma River is
Parco Ducale – an oasis of gardens
scattered with sculptures.
Take a trip back in time at Palazzo
della Pilotta, which houses the
archaeological museum, national
gallery and historic Farnese theatre.
The compact historic centre is carfree, so bikes are a popular way to get around. For Punto Bici bike share,
visit: parmapuntobici.pr.it.
global flavours.
pasta master
128 delicious.
Baked buffalo ricotta & honey
cake with prosciutto and witlof & walnut salad
baked buffalo ricotta &
honey cake with prosciutto
and witlof & walnut salad
Serves 4
20g unsalted butter, melted
400g fresh buffalo’s milk ricotta*
2 tsp finely chopped rosemary
11/2-2 tbs honey, plus extra to drizzle
2 witlof, leaves thinly sliced
2 red witlof*, leaves thinly sliced
1/4 cup (25g) walnuts, toasted, chopped
2 tbs roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
2 tbs balsamic vinegar
8 slices Prosciutto di Parma* or regular prosciutto, to serve
Preheat oven to 180°C. Brush four 1/2 cup
(125ml) ramekins with butter, then place
in the fridge for 2-3 minutes until the
butter is set and firm.
Place ricotta in a bowl and fold through
rosemary and 11/2 tbs honey. Check for
sweetness, adding more honey to taste.
Season and spoon into ramekins.
Bake for 20 minutes until lightly golden
and slightly puffed. Cool in ramekin for
10 minutes, then carefully run a knife
around the edge and turn out onto plates.
Meanwhile, toss the witlof, walnuts and
parsley together in a bowl. Whisk oil with
balsamic, season, then toss with salad.
Drizzle cakes with extra honey, season
with freshly ground black pepper and
serve with the salad and prosciutto.
* Buffalo’s milk ricotta (substitute regular
ricotta) and Prosciutto di Parma are
from selected delis. Red witlof is from
greengrocers; substitute radicchio.
Merchandising: Leesa O’Reilly
Luca Ciano (above), executive chef
for Barilla Australia, is lucky enough
to visit Parma every year. “Going to
Italy brings me back to my cooking
roots,” he says. “They call the area
around Parma the food valley. The
flavours, the smells – there’s no
better way to be inspired.”
Luca has always combined his
passion for cooking with travel,
having worked in London, Bermuda
and Australia, as well as a stint at
two-Michelin starred Il Luogo di
Aimo e Nadia in his native Milan.
These days, he hosts Italian
cooking classes at Casa Barilla in
Sydney’s Annandale, travels around
Australia and New Zealand giving
cooking demonstrations, and is a
restaurant consultant.
Whenever Luca has the chance, he
loves to return to Italy, particularly to
Parma. “It’s such a cute little town,”
he says. “It has a rich heritage and
everything revolves around food.
What’s not to love?” Here Luca
shares some recipes inspired by the bounty of this charming region.
For more information on cooking
classes at Casa Barilla in Sydney,
visit: barillaaus.com.
risotto alla parmigiana
with parmesan wafers
Serves 4
2 tbs olive oil
70g unsalted butter, chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
11/3 cups (300g) carnaroli* or arborio rice
1/3 cup (80ml) dry white wine
1.25L (5 cups) chicken or vegetable
stock, heated
21/2 cups (200g) finely grated Parmigiano
Reggiano* or regular parmesan, plus extra to serve
1/3 cup (80ml) best-quality balsamic
vinegar* (optional)
2 tbs finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Heat the oil and 20g butter in a large
saucepan over medium-low heat. Add
onion and garlic, then cook, stirring, for
6-8 minutes until soft. Add rice and stir for
1-2 minutes to coat the grains. Add wine
and cook for 1 minute or until completely
evaporated. Stir in stock, a ladleful at
a time, allowing each to be completely
absorbed before adding the next. Continue
to cook, stirring constantly, for about
20 minutes or until rice is al dente (you
may not need to use all the stock).
Remove from heat and stir in half the
cheese and remaining 50g butter. Stand
for 2-3 minutes. It should be creamy and
runny – if not, just add a little more stock.
Meanwhile, heat a non-stick frypan
over medium-low heat. When the pan is
hot, sprinkle in the remaining cheese in
an even layer. Allow the cheese to cook
for 1-2 minutes until starting to bubble
and the edges begin to turn golden.
Remove from the heat and cool in the
pan for 1 minute, then carefully transfer
to baking paper to cool completely.
Once cool, break into shards.
If using balsamic, place in a small
saucepan over low heat and cook for 2-3
minutes or until reduced by two-thirds.
Sprinkle risotto with parsley and extra
cheese, then drizzle with a little balsamic
reduction. Serve with parmesan wafers.
* Carnaroli rice and Parmigiano Reggiano
are from delis. For best results, use
a balsamic vinegar aged for at least
8 years, available from selected delis.
global flavours.
rigatoni alla partenopea
with crispy eggplant and
buffalo mozzarella
Serves 4
Sunflower oil, to deep-fry
2 tbs plain flour
1 eggplant, cut into 3cm x 1.5cm batons
400g rigatoni
400g jar tomato and ricotta sauce (we used Barilla)
10 basil leaves, torn
2/3 cup (50g) finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano*
150g buffalo mozzarella ball*, torn
Extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle
rigatoni: South African handmade ceramic bowl from Hut 13 stockist details last pages
Half-fill a saucepan with sunflower oil
and heat to 180°C (a cube of bread will
turn golden in 30 seconds when oil is
hot enough). Season the flour with sea
salt and freshly ground black pepper,
then toss with the eggplant. Shake
off excess flour, then deep-fry the
eggplant, in batches, for 2 minutes
or until golden. Remove eggplant
from the oil and drain on paper towel.
Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large
saucepan of salted boiling water
according to the packet instructions
until al dente. Drain.
In a large saucepan, heat the tomato
and ricotta sauce over medium-low
heat, stirring, for 2-3 minutes until
warmed through. Remove pan from the
heat and add eggplant, basil, cheeses
and pasta and gently toss to combine,
allowing the mozzarella to melt slightly.
Divide pasta among bowls, drizzle
with a little extra virgin olive oil and
serve immediately.
* Buffalo mozzarella (substitute
bocconcini) and Parmigiano Reggiano
(substitute parmesan) are from delis. d.
130 delicious.