tencell

Transcription

tencell
Lenzing Group
Leading Fiber Innovation
1
Agenda
 Lenzing AG
 Lenzing Fiber Portfolio
 Enduses
 Fiber properties
 Processing
 Lenzing Sustainability Concept
 Sustainability & Environmental issues
2
Corporate Video
3
The Lenzing Group 2008
Sales: EUR 1,329.1 mill.
Export share: 88%
Staff: 5,945
4
The Lenzing Group 2008
Segment Fibers
Business Unit
Textile Fibers
Business Unit
Business Unit
Nonwoven Fibers
Business Unit
Filaments
Business Unit
Pulp
Business Unit
Energy
5
Segment Plastics
Sales:
EUR 1,107.9 mill.
EBIT:
EUR 118.1 mill.
Segment Engineering
Business Unit
Engineering
Performance Products
Sales:
EUR 182.2 mill.
EBIT:
EUR 7.3 mill.
Sales:
(ext. sales
EBIT:
EUR 110,9 mill.
EUR 51,3 mill.)
EUR 10,0 mill.
Fibers: Our core business
Lenzing Group
Sales by segment
100 % = EUR 1.33 bill.
6
Global network for our customers
7
Business Unit Textile Fibers in dialog with the
textile chain
8
Who’s who in fibers
* Lenzing fibers
9
Lenzing Fiber Brands
TENCEL® - The New Age Fiber
 Home Textiles: quilts and bed linen
 Clothing: shirts, blouses, ladies‘ and men‘s wear,
home wear and undergarments
Lenzing Modal ® - Makes the World a Softer Place
 Home Textiles: terry cloth products
 Clothing: undergarments
Lenzing FR® - The Heat Protection Fiber
 special fiber for flame-resistant protective clothing
Lenzing Viscose® - Sets the Industry Standard
 Clothing made of woven textiles and knitwear
10
Lenzing brands – nonwovens fibers
TENCEL®
 Consumer and speciality wipes for cosmetic cleansing,
household and industrial applications
 Medical products such as wound pads, surgical swabs and
components of surgical gowns
 Filtrations
 Special papers for electronic components
 Carbon fiber precursor
Lenzing Viscose®
 Consumer products such as wipes for infant care
 Speciality wipes for cosmetic cleansing,
household and industrial applications
 Medical products such as wound pads, surgical swabs
and components of surgical gowns
 Tampons
Viscostar ®
 Special fiber for tampons
11
Lenzing Modal® – the best out of
beech
Lenzing Modal® presentation
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TENCEL® - New Age out of
Eucalyptus
TENCEL® presentation
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Physical fibre data
Cotton
Viscose
Modal
TENCEL®
24-28
25
35
37
Elongation cond [%]
7-9
20
13
13
Tenacity wet [cN/tex]
25-30
13
20
30
rel. wet tenacity [%]
105
50
57
81
Elongation wet [%]
12-14
23
15
15
Loop tenacity [cN/tex]
20-26
7
8
20
Bisfa Modulus
10
3
6
10
Grade of fibrillation
2
1
1
4-5
Natural moisture content [%] (65 % rel F.)
8
11
11
11
3000
430
640
850
35
88
63
67
Tenacity cond [cN/tex]
Polymerisation degree DPv
Volume swelling in water [%]
14
Data according Lenzing specification
Cross-section of Lenzing Modal® and
Cotton
Cotton
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Lenzing Modal®
Cross-section TENCEL®
TENCEL® Heiligenkreuz
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TENCEL® Mobile/Grimsby
Cross-section of Lenzing Viscose® and
Bamboo
Lenzing Viscose®
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Bamboo Viscose
TENCEL® shows a nano fibrillar structure
Fiber diameter
10 - 30 µm
Fiber skin approx. 100 nm
Macrofibrils
(0,5 – 1 µm)
Nanofibrils
(10 - 100 nm)
Microfibrils
(0,1 – 0,2 µm)
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Why TENCEL®
 Strength & Durability
 Versatility – hands and optics
 Function & Comfort
 Botanic origin
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TENCEL® for Function & Comfort
 Moisture management
 Natural air-condition
 Reduced bacteria growth
 Sensitive skin
20
Peach Skin processing route for TENCEL®
z
En
y
tr
e
m
e
n
e
atm
t
Peach Skin
second fibrillation
Primary fibrillation
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Mechanical polishing process
Tumbling
No pilling and fibrillation
22
Prewashing
After homelaundering due
Reactive dyeing
to resin finish
Resin finish
TENCEL® LF/A100 - Control of fibrillation by
chemical crosslinking reaction
CROSSLINK
Disruption
of H-bonding
allows
splitting
TENCEL® A100: Trifunctional TAHT crosslinker
TENCEL® LF: Crosslinking agent based on anchor-chemistry of reactive dyestuffs,
colourless, non toxic, free of formaldehyde
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Fibrillation tendency of cellulose fibres
No fibrillation
Viscose, Modal,
TENCEL® A100
TENCEL® LF
Strong fibrillation
Cotton
Polynosic
TENCEL®
Fibrillation
after
reactive dyeing process
TENCEL® A100 or LF
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Standard TENCEL®
End-uses and working procedures for TENCEL®
Garment dye
Denim
Garment wash
Standard TENCEL®
Outerwear
blouses, shirts,
bottom weights
Continue processes
Open width
Standard TENCEL®
Hometextiles
bed sheets, Inletts
Discontinue processes
Rope form
Knitted goods
25
TENCEL® LF,
TENCEL® A100
Sustainability in
the Lenzing Group
Lenzing sustainability concept
Sustainable economic success
 Growth, innovation, productivity,
technology leadership, quality leadership
Responsibility for the environment
 Lenzing sets environmental standards
 Closed loops and integration
 Renewable raw material wood
Responsibility for the people
 Attractive jobs
 High safety and health standards
 Regional support of social, sports and cultural activities
27
The Cellulose Cycle
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91% increase of fiber production in
Lenzing between 1990 and 2008
Fiber production location Lenzing [t/a]
300.000
250.000
200.000
150.000
100.000
50.000
0
9 0 99 1 99 2 99 3 99 4 99 5 99 6 99 7 99 8 99 9 000 001 002 003 004 005 006 007 00 8 00 9
9
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
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Utilisation of wood in Lenzing
Wood is the raw material and the fuel for pulp production in Lenzing
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Wastewater in equivalents of habitants
Reduction of Wastewater in Lenzing
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1982 - 2009
Comparison of energy sources
* incl. RVL
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The Cellulose Cycle
LCA
Green Finishing
Eco-Metrics
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LCA - Life cycle analysis of fibers





Comprehensive evaluation of fibers (ISO 14040 series)
Utrecht University, The Netherlands (Prof. M. Patel, Li
Shen)
Assessment of sustainability of Lenzing fibers
in comparison to cotton, polyester and polypropylene.
11 environmentally relevant factors studied
Peer studies confirm results
Result:
Environmental load of Lenzing fibers is significantly lower than
that of cotton!
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What are the environmental impacts?
•
Energy: Non-Renewable Energy Use (NREU)
•
Global Warming (kg CO2 equivalents)
•
Land use for biomass production
•
Water use
•
The CML indicators (Center for Environmental studies, University Leiden /
Netherlands)
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
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abiotic depletion
human toxicity
fresh water ecotoxicity
terrestrial ecotoxicity
photochemical oxidant
acidification
eutrophication
Net NREU (GJ/t fibre), Cradle-to-factory gate
plus post-consumer waste incineration
100
80
60
78
56
34
40
26
20
Cotton
16
13
0
-20
36
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Net GWP (t CO2 eq./t fibre), Cradle-to-factory gate
plus post-consumer waste incineration
6
5.5
5
4.2
4
3.1
Cotton
3
2.1
2
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0.9
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Up to 70 % less required acreage
Required acreage for the production of 1 ton of fiber
38
Up to 20 times less water consumption
39
Life cycle analysis - relative
environmental load per ton of fiber


soil pollution
water
pollution
40







Global warming
Consumption of non-renewable
resources
Human health
Soil pollution
Water pollution
Air pollution
Ozone layer depletion
Acidification of air, water and soil
Eutrophication
Awards
 VÖNIX Sustainability Index
 CSR Ranking Austria 2008
 Eco-Label of the European Commission
 Responsible Care
 Panda-Award (WWF Austria)
 DIN CERTO
 R.I.O. Award 2006
 ÖKOTEX
 European Environmental Award
 Nordic Swan
41
Green Finishing
Lenzing AG in co-operation with
Dystar, Huntsman, Then
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Efficiency in Dyeing & Finishing
 TENCEL® is the purest cellulosic fiber with no contamination like
cotton seeds, heavy metals, waxes or sulphur therefore
 Little or no scouring is needed in knitted fabrics
 No bleaching
 No mercerising
 TENCEL® shows very high dyeing efficiency allowing exceptional
reduction of
 Dyes
 Salt
 Alkaline
 Water
 Energy usage
 Processing time
43
Processing route for knits
Modal, TENCEL® A100/LF
Washing
Reactive dyeing
Soaping
Dewatering
Softening
Bleaching
cotton and cotton blends
Compacting
44
Stenter drying
TENCEL® - dyeing efficiency
Exhaust dyeing process for knits applying same amount of dye
Cotton
TENCEL®
Cotton
TENCEL®
Dye bath after dyeing
Dystar and Huntsman co-operation
45
Unfixed Dye removed in
washing sequences
TENCEL® A100
Cotton
46
Savings in dyeing and finishing
*T-Shirt 100% TENCEL® A 100
 ½ Dyestuff
 ½ Chemicals
 ½ Energy
 ½ Water
**Trouser 100% TENCEL®
 1/3 Dyestuff
 1/2 Chemicals
 1/2 Energy
 1/2 Water
*exhaust dyeing
47
**cold
pad batch process
Savings compared to 100% cotton
Eco-Metrics
Eco-Metrics is a tool from
to evaluate the whole
life cycle of a garment
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Eco-Metrics
 Enable comparisons between fibres, fabrics and



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processes
Highlights areas for improvement
Highlights areas for new products
Provide basis for in depth analysis
Eco-Metrics
TENCEL® T-Shirt
Cotton T-Shirt
Water
Fiber
Yarn
Fabric weight
Dye Method
Finish
Life expectation
50
Energy
Nonrenewables
Pollution
Water
Energy
Nonrenewables Pollution
Environmental Cost of a Black T-shirt
Fibre manufacture (based on 250g)
Cotton
TENCEL ®
Lenzing Modal ®
Water (l)
1430
66
123
Energy (MJ)
10
11
6.2
CO2 (kg)
0.75
0.52
0.22
0.52
1.52
Land Use (m2) 3.4
Figures from LCA by Patel & Chen
51
Environmental Cost of a Black T-shirt
Fabric manufacture
Yarn spinning – TENCEL ® has 20% less waste compared
with cotton.
52
Cotton
TENCEL ®
Lenzing Modal ®
Energy (MJ)
4.5
1.8
2.0
Water (l)
47
18
22
Chemical (g)
320
150
225
Dyestuff (g)
20
12
18
Lenzing Fibers
examples - POS and Internet
Tianello – natural clothing
54
Adidas
55
http://www.adidas.com/campaigns/better_place/content/
Patagonia
56
Patagonia – footprint cronicles
57