- Zagreb For You

Talkabout
Croatia
LIMITED
EDITION
FREE COPY
TIME TO HIT THE COAST? This is the que-
No. 01
APRIL
2015.
Z
ANJA MUTIĆ
Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New
York Magazine and The Washington Post.
Follow her at @everthenomad
on Facebook
Double life,
double city
Zagreb
skyline
Generations
of Zagreb’s
citizens have
grown up believing that
one of the
Cathedral’s
towers is much higher
than the other. We checked that urban legend.
The northern
tower peaks
at 108.16 meters and the
southern at
108.20. Four
centimeters?
Perspective
is a powerful thing. Zagreb’s skyline
got its current look in
the 19th century when the
sacral towers
were reconstructed to
overshadow
the city’s profane palaces.
I
’ve been leading a double life for
at least a decade. You see me,
you see me not. I’m in Zagreb and
then I’m not. I’m in New York and
then I’m not.
And then, I’m in Zagreb. I wake
up. I’m in Zagreb. Another morning: I’m in Zagreb. Like groundhog day. It’s been nearly a year and
I’m still in Zagreb.
If you asked me a few years back,
I’d tell you: “That’s impossible.
Zagreb doesn’t have enough going
on. I want to know that if I wake
up at 4am or can’t sleep in the
dead of night, there’s a bar nearby
I can go to and have a drink. Here,
I can’t. Zagreb goes to bed at
11pm”. Or so it felt like. Only, it
doesn’t.
ike me, Zagreb leads a double
life. You see the city, but you
see it not. The edgiest, most interesting, funkiest Zagreb happens
away from well-trampled routes.
The Zagreb with character, the
Zagreb with a stand, that city is
not in your face. The city you see
is different than the city it is.
So these days I look for Zagreb
in its courtyards, on its moonlit
corners, its leafy streets where
nothing much happens... I look
for Zagreb where you wouldn’t
normally look. Sometimes I find
it, other times it hides, not in the
mood to come out and play. That’s
fine by me. I’ve always liked a good
challenge.
nd so we play a game, Zagreb
and I. Me, of a double life,
Zagreb of a double city. When we
do meet, it’s passion and it’s love.
Like no other.
L
4
cm
A
1093 The old
church construction began
1880 - 1906
cathedral built
by Bollé
Kaptol sits at
134.44 meters
above sea level;
the rest of Zagreb is at 122
stion of all questions
for Zagreb citizens and
for 10 million tourists
who are set to come
this year. The invasion
traditionally starts with
Easter, and a million visitors from abroad will
storm the city.
PIKETTY Those who
haven’t read Piketty’s
Capital in the Twenty-First Century, can
catch this in-vogue
economist live at the
Croatian National Theater on April 9. Tickets
have been sold out but
it’ll all be on TV. The
debate about capitalism
and socialism continues
... More @hnk.hr
REFERENDUMS Croats
seem to announce a
new one every month
so it’s time for the big
question: Are girls from
Zagreb the prettiest in
Croatia? Will that make
girls from Split angry?
In competition with
Bordeaux, Lisboa, Athens,
Valletta, Riga, Ljubljana,
Innsbruck, Milan, Brussels
*Zagreb was the sixth best
destination in Europe
Things I miss when away
from Zagreb: its peace,
its dynamic skies, the
peeling façades, Sljeme
as its backdrop, jampacked sidewalk cafes
come springtime
SUBVERSIVE FINGER
In Zagreb there is
no doubt: the middle
finger that started the
argument between
the Germans and the
Greeks was lifted, at
least for a second, during Subversive Festival
at Kino Europa in 2013.
The event’s organizers,
who introduced the
future Greek minister
with his boss Tsipras,
excused Varoufakis’
gesture. Subversive is
back in May. Middle
finger guaranteed.
#subversivefestival
“SO 80s” is not an in-
sult in Zagreb; it’s actually a compliment. The
revival of the decade
is in full swing. We’re
still waiting for the reconstruction of the cult
80s hotspots like the
Kulušić club.
Where's tram
number 10?
How many numbers are there
between 1 and 17? 15, if you ask Za-
greb Electric Tram. There is no number
10. It was last seen two years ago when
it replaced #1 due to construction. And
that’s not the only tram mystery in Zagreb. Tram #16 was discontinued in the
1990s. But all that has nothing to do
with the accidents that happen on the
116 kilometers of Zagreb’s tram tracks.
Statistics say that most of them happen
- you guessed it – on tram #13. @zet.hr
WORD
Maybe not for
selfies but it is
tops for lifestyle
Hvala Y
(HVAH-lah)
Thank you, Danke,
Merci, Gracias,
Obrigado, Grazie
ou won’t find Zagreb on top
lists for the best selfie. It’s
got no waterfalls or 300-meter
towers. Sure, there are some attractions, lovely architecture, parks
at the heart of the city but the
most beautiful are Zagreb’s people
and their lifestyle – laid-back and
easy. That’s the reason to come to
Zagreb. And stay. And return. Ask
the almost one million tourists
who come here every year.
Don't waste paper. Use it or . . . .
zagreb-touristinfo.hr
Keep in touch
DOWNLOAD YOUR
FREE COPY AND SHARE:
zagreb4you.com
Zagreb was more commonly known outside Croatia by its Austrian German exonym Agram
Sanjin Kaštelan
INSTAGRAM*
*
what*where*when*
BLAST AT NOON
UP TO
SLJEME
If you like nature and
skiing, here’s one more
reason to visit Zagreb
again. Zagreb will begin
building a brand-new
cable car (worth 45
million €) that will
whisk people up to the
top of Sljeme (1033m),
the city’s favorite
outdoor playground.
#lotrscak
Take a 64-second ride
on the shortest wire
railway in the world.
The romantic funicular in Tomićeva street
has been transporting
passengers since the
Austro-Hungarian era,
first using steam and,
since 1934, electricity.
Its life span has been a
full 125 years so far. Perhaps it will go nuclear,
if they allow it, because
it is protected cultural
heritage, after all.
Sanjin Kaštelan
If you happen to be in Zagreb at
noon and hear a loud blast coming
from the Upper Town, fear not.
It’s the Grič cannon that has been
marking midday since 1877. Zagreb
people don’t blink; visitors can get
seriously startled though. Commemorating victory over the Turks
nearly seven centuries ago, the
cannon now helps locals set their
watches right. @gricki_top
64 seconds for a kiss at the
world's shortest funicular
The ultimate
eye candy for
photographers
and painters, the
leafy Nikola Šubić
Zrinski Square is
known to locals as
Zrinjevac. Stately
historic palaces
line the park.
Tip: If you are
looking for a quiet
spot to meditate,
Zagreb’s Botanical Garden is a
10-minute stroll
away.
Lenght 4,5 km
No. of cabins 125
Capacity 150
people per hour
CRAVAT REGIMENT
Dressed like Croatian soldiers from
the Thirty Years’ War, the Cravat
Regiment is Zagreb’s guard of
honor. Eight recently selected rookies have yet to prove themselves.
Catch them on weekends around
noon in the city center. Tip for
kids: You will see men in uniform
on horses. @kravatpukovnija.com
RENT A BIKE
Zagreb currently has about 200
km of bicycle paths. Politicians
and bike activists are arguing
about the exact number but at
least the number of bike paths
and rentals is
growing as they
argue. Our rental
pick: #nextbike
Zagreb’s street art group known
as Pimp My Pump perks up old water
pumps around town, popularly called “železni franceki”, in an homage to the icons
of popular culture: Andy Warhol, Lou
Reed, Bob Marley, Bruce Lee, The Warriors ... Tests have shown that the water
from these pumps is good for drinking.
Move over Vegas, for the first time
this year Zagreb offers #wedding
arrangements. And the wedding
season is now open! For a really
memorable wedding, choose
between romantic old parks,
magnificent palaces, historic castles,
museums, galleries ...
It’s a love museum but it keeps
axes, bears and other scary stuff
hen a love affair ends, the
once treasured mementos
of lost romance often end up
in the dustbin. But most of us
hold on to at least one keepsake
to remind us of our once-grand
passions. Zagreb’s Museum of
Broken Relationships is a collection of such objects and stories
behind them, donated by people
from all over the world. The
founders, Olinka Vištica and
Dražen Grubišić, believe this
act of giving helps people mark
a break-up. Poignant and often
funny exhibits include letters
and photos, former Valentine’s
gifts like teddy bears and offbeat items like a leg prosthesis.
The souvenir shop is a pretty
cool spot to browse, with neat
take-me-homes. Leave without
the Bad Memories Eraser and
you may just be heart-broken.
The café terrace is lovely, too.
Sanjin Kaštelan
W
If you miss it in Zagreb, you can see catch the exhibit on the road from April 28 in Mons,
Belgium. It also opens in Basel, Switzerland on 15 April, through the end of summer
Prothesis
Donated by a
war veteran
who fell in love
with his social
worker
One of the
first items
A girl from Zagreb
left this reminder
of her relationship
with a DJ
Ex-axe
After he left her for someone
else, a woman from Berlin used
this axe to chop up her former
lover's furniture
brokenships.com
Ćirilometodska 2, daily 9am - 9pm
We want to thank all our donators who helped
us with their items and made this exhibition
possible - Dražen Grubišić and Olinka Vištica,
cofounders of the Museum
NEW Superstore for the cream of Croatian design
T
he latest on Zagreb’s design front,
Croatian Design Superstore is the
one-stop-shop for the cream of Croatian
design. At this brand-new 300m2 flagship, unveiled just last month, you’ll find
more than 130 carefully curated items
by 150 different authors. Items on sale
span the full spectrum – from furniture,
lighting and home décor to clothing,
accessories, books and gastro gifts, all
designed and created in Croatia. For souvenir shopping, look no further but also
swing by for sandwiches and smoothies
with market-fresh ingredients and, on
April 11, a presentation of new table linen
by Anek, Zagreb-based food illustrator.
Traveller, a portable wireless lamp
for outdoor and indoor use
Designer: Ana Tevšić
Woodoir, combs
made of olive and
plum wood
Designer:
Sanja
Rotter
Croatia - As It Is, unisex
bags with four different
tourism anti-slogans
about Croatia
Designer:
Superstudio29
Ira Payer,
creative director:
Our designers
are experimenting
with self-initiated
and self-produced
creations. It’s
exciting and fresh,
a permanent
work-in-progress
SPRING has awakened
Zagreb. The season’s
first tourists are coming. I predict that,
for the first time,
the city will be full
during the summer.
ZAGREB IS NOT VIENNA but
it has its own charm.
foreigners have
I ALWAYS SAY As
already noticed,
TO FOREIGNERS: we have a strong
coffee culture. The
”COME TO
prolonged sitting and
PEPERMINT,
drinking coffee. Easy
DRINK LOCAL and laid-back, the
is unique in
BEER, DO NOT lifestyle
Europe. We may not
MIX BEER AND have sensational buildings but we have
RAKIJA”
this Zagreb lifestyle.
COFFEE, YES, ESPRESSO, I
drink it the Italian
way, in one sip. I’m
glad to see Zagreb
getting more small cafes with their
own coffee brands and roasters.
DISHES YOU CAN EAT WITH A SPOON are always
my preference. In the city center
there is a real renaissance of gableci,
Zagreb-style lunches. My favorite are
the stews at Čušpajz, always reliable.
WHEN I’M NOT IN MY PEPERMINT, I’M CLOSING DOWN
THE BAR at Melin, Pif, Mojo, Jabuka,
Katran… There are more and more
good places popping up all over Zagreb. I don’t even have time to visit
them all.
Croatians spend the
longest amount of
time over one coffee
I
f there’s one
word you need
to know when
in Zagreb, it’s
kava (coffee). In
Croatia’s capital,
coffee drinking is
the ultimate social
ritual. Everything
happens over kava
– business deals
and breakups,
gossip and love,
and everything in
between. No wonder that, rumor
has it, Croatians
spend the longest
amount of time
over one coffee,
sipping it as slowly
as slow gets.
The ideal time to
perfect the art of
slow coffee drinking is Zagreb’s
špica, the peak of
the city’s weekly
calendar (spitze
means tip in German). From 11am
till 2pm every
Saturday, grab
one of the prime
pavement café
tables in the city
center and you’ll
get the best of
people-watching.
Half of Zagreb
hits the streets
around Cvjetni Trg
(Flower Square)
dressed to impress, parading their
iPhones, teeny
dogs and chic shades. So don’t skip
the špica - be there
or be square.
For Zagreb’s best
kava, head to the
just-opened Cogito
Coffee Roasters
(Varšavska 11),
and try their
Tesla Blend (the
light=fruity, the
dark=chocolaty).
Matija Hrkać,
3-time Croatia
barista champion:
When we sit down
for coffee, we have
a hard time
leaving the café
Neanderthals may not
have talked but they
sure wanted to look nice
N
Think Neanderthal and you picture an awkward prehistoric creature who mumbles
while he stumbles. Not true!
We now know that Neanfrom Zagreb
derthals even wore jewelry.
See proof of this recent
discovery at Croatia’s most high-tech
science museum in the town of Krapina,
40 kilometers north of Zagreb. On display,
among other findings, are eagle claws
carved and polished 80 thousands years
before the arrival of modern humans in
Europe. Admission: for Neanderthals free,
for others must see. #iceageeurope
90 min
Matija Topolovec
Krapina
Neanderthal
Museum: open
daily 9am-7pm;
back entrance to
the cave closes
at 6pm
A day in...
ALEX CREVAR
Morning ritual
Tkalčićeva, Bogovićeva
and Cvjetni Trg are ideal
spots for starting your day,
with coffee, newspapers and
a quick breakfast. #morning
#ritual
If you happen to be
around Cvjetni Trg at
lunchtime, steps away
you’ll find a street lined with
restaurants – Teslina. Along
this short street you’ll find
seafood taverns, Italian
restaurants, bistros, burger
joints and pizzerias. For the
best of Croatian food and
wine on Teslina, head to
Vinodol. #food #wine #beer
Shopping You’ll find
two department stores
on the main square, Nama
and Müller. Also in the
center, Masarykova and Ilica
streets have plenty of small
stores and traditional crafts.
For souvenir shopping, head
to Bakačeva street near the
Cathedral. #shopping
#souvenirs
Flea markets For rare
vintage items, antique
pieces and offbeat finds,
head to Britanski Trg (British
Square), which hosts a flea
market every Saturday and
Sunday from 7am to 2pm.
#antiques
THE BEST THINGS
IN LIFE ARE FREE *
If it’s your birthday *,
Zagreb Eye on Ban Jelačić
Square offers a spectacular
and unique view of the city.
This 360° viewpoint is open
every day from 10am to 11pm
year round, regardless of the
weather. Non-birthday admission 20KN, free for children
under 3. #selfie #free
Looks familiar?
Travel writer from the United States. His work
has appeared in The New York Times,
National Geographic Traveler and
Outside magazine @AlexCrevar
City crush
I fall in love with cities. I call these
love affairs “city crushes.” Zagreb
is my favorite.
I know that sounds like sucking
up. Hell, maybe I am. I am an
American. Regardless, I’ve made
that statement about Zagreb
many times.
Sober
Friend: “Alex, where is the best
place you’ve visited?”
Me: “Zagreb. It has culture and
places to get into trouble, but it’s
small enough to walk everywhere.”
Drunk
Girl at bar: “Are you okay? Should
I call you a taxi?”
Me: “Huh? What? Hey, did I ever
tell you about Zagreb?”
To men
Man: “What are the women like?”
Me: “You haven’t lived until a
purgerica calls you majmun.”
To women
Woman: “What are the men like?”
Me: “I’m not sure. I’ll be traveling
there soon if you want to meet for
a drink?”
I was a sucker for Zagreb from the
beginning. The Croatian capital
was the Europe of my dreams
when I visited 17 years ago on a
train from Munich. It was a crisp,
post-bura, spring day. I climbed
on an old tram—like the ones
used for the 8 or the 15 today—
and rumbled past Zrinjevac into
Jelačić Square. Špica was in full
bloom. Well-dressed Croats crowded sun-filled terraces sipping
espressos and puffing cigarettes
as if the breakneck world around
them had stopped. For me, it had.
Top tips for travelers:
1. You’ll be one lucky traveler if you visit
Zagreb on a sunny Saturday morning.
Go straight to Jelačić Square.
2. When you speak to a waiter, act like
a Croat, not an American. Order kava...
espresso…don’t ask for milk…or a mug…or
look for a Starbucks. Then order a rakija
and smoke exactly one cigarette.
Coolture
OK, YOU’VE HAD FUN
CLUBBING, you've checked out
the bookstores, theaters and
cinemas but you still want
more culture?
Want to see a building
shaped like a meander?
Head straight to Zagreb’s
Museum of Contemporary
Art (MSU) whose architecture
echoes this geometric form.
Its meandric shape is in part
an homage to Julije Knifer, one of Croatia’s greatest
artists. This abstract painter,
founding member of Gorgona Group (a 1960s neo-dada
art collective), football fanatic, reviler of petit bourgeois
conventions and an avid fan
of Stravinsky painted meanders for 45 years. Only meanders. Thousands of them. The
video screen that covers most
of the museum’s western facade is the largest in this part
of Europe. @msu.hr
QuiZG
1. When did the brilliant
inventor Nikola Tesla present
alternating current in Zagreb?
a) 1892
b) 1899
c) 1903
TVORNICA KULTURE April brings
the music stars of Croatian new wave
– Boa on April 11 and Jura Stublić &
Film on April 17. The world’s “old new
wave” comes on April 24 with Gang of
Four, who last played in Zagreb in 1981.
@tvornicakulture.com
NIGHT OF BOOKS Launched in
2012, this cultural one-nighter sees
literary events and great deals on
books at various locations around
town, from schools to prisons and
elsewhere. April 23. @nocknjige.hr
MORRICONE The world-famous
composer of film music is on world
tour. Maestro Ennio Morricone performs
at Arena on April 11. #morricone
#spaghettiwestern
FESTIVAL OF TOLERANCE The
ninth edition of this fest brings more
than 60 films of all genres to the big
screens of Tuškanac and Europa
cinemas. April 12–April 18
@jff-zagreb.hr
MUSIC BIENNALE On since 1961,
Zagreb’s International Festival of
Contemporary Music has seen
performances by Stravinsky, Cage,
Penderecki... and other musical icons.
April 18–April 25 @mbz.hr
The Alphabet of Money
for children and adults
2. In which Zagreb hotel did
the killer from Murder on the
Orient-Express sleep?
a) Westin
b) Sheraton
c) The Esplanade
3. Who is the best football
player ever who played in
Dinamo, Zagreb?
a) Zvonimir b) Davor
Šuker
Boban
c) Robert
Prosinečki
ANSWERS
d) Luka
Modrić
1. a; 2. c; 3 all
answers are
correct, depends
on who you talk to
MONOVIEW
TOMO RICOV, OWNER
OF PEPERMINT
Did you know that you can repay a loan
by riding a bycicle? That is something
even a small child knows, especially
those who visited the Alphabet of
Money exhibit at the Technical
Museum. This interactive display
sponsored by Erste Bank and the
children’s museums of Vienna and Graz
teaches children and grown-ups about
wise spending. The ticket is valid for
the entire Technical Museum. Every
day, except monday from 9am to 5pm,
weekends till 1pm, until January 2016.
N
SOLAR SYSTEM ON THE
STREETS OF ZAGREB,
PLUS ONE EXTRA SUN
The Nine Views installation
features nine models of planets,
all located at a proportional
distance from the Grounded Sun,
a 1971 sculpture by Ivan Kožarić.
Jupiter
1176 meters
from the Sun
Mars
Tkalčićeva 21;
295.2 meters
from the Sun
Mercury
Margaretska 3; 75
meters from the Sun
Venus
Ban Jelačić
Square 3;
141.1 meters
from the Sun
Sun
Saturn
1851.2 meters
from the Sun
Pluto
7658.6 meters from the Sun
Uranus
3718.2 meters from the Sun
Earth
Varšavska 9;
193.7 meters
from the Sun
Bogovićeva 5
Yet another sun popped
up recently on the streets of
Zagreb, right outside the new Neptune
Music Academy building on
5833,5 meters
Marshal Tito Square. Only this from the Sun
sun isn’t related to the other
planets.. This sparked a
controversy. A hidden
meaning? A masonic sign?
A needle or a spear?
#art #astronomy
Raw, boiled, baked, pickled? Kumica
says the best are - with eggs!
3 hours to
the top
If you’re a hiker,
mountain biker or a
morning person who
can’t start their day
without a jog, don’t
miss Sljeme (top of
Medvednica mountain). A hike to the top,
6.9 kilometers, lasts
about 3 hours. More
than 20 mountain huts
and shelters await en
route. Once at the top,
make up the 4000 calories you just burned
with a hearty sausage
& bean stew.
Map and card
Sanjin Kaštelan
You have just 24 hours
to experience Zagreb?
Or you are here for just
three days and want
things to be easy?
Then Zagreb Card
is your best
friend.
Like in
other big
cities, it
includes
a
map of the city and its
surroundings, free transport and discounts at
150 attractions. More
@zagrebcard.com
TIPS&
TRICKS
ZAGREB
TAXI
HELP
+385 1 1777 112
EXCHANGE RATES, Erste bank
(BUY RATE, APRIL 2 2015)
€ 1 7,59; $ 1 6,92; JPY 100 5,75;
MATE JANKOVIĆ
Chef, columnist, TV star and Anthony
Bourdain's host whenever he's here. You
can find Mate at Gradska Kavana
Just one cup
Z
agreb is most beautiful on Saturdays. No parking, no free
space at sidewalk cafes, busy traffic, and yet it’s my favorite day of
the week. Zagreb lives for Saturdays – encounters, countless coffees, cigarettes smoked, gossip
sessions, catwalks of sunglasses
and puppies. For me, Saturday is
the day for going to the market for
fresh fruits and vegetables. Unless
I stop for that one coffee. One coffee is like one beer, a myth. An invite for coffee is a trap, an ambush,
an obstruction along the road lined
with obligations.
fter superhuman effort to find
parking, I decisively head towards the market, armed with a
list of ingredients and an idea for
Saturday lunch. But one invite for
coffee changes everything. A quick
shot of espresso, pleasant smoke of
a cigarette, a little talk, what could
go wrong? Messi’s goal, the crisis,
politics, ideas for lunch, wine recommendations ... subjects unfold
one after another. Another espresso, please. Talk about the last hangover and why it’s the last ever, analysis of the new Nile Rogers’ single
and the obligatory topic on how
indecent to type messages while
talking. Another espresso, please.
The cannon marks noon, which
means I still have two hours for the
market. Plans for holidays, dinners,
going out. Another espresso. Work,
stress, car, apartment. Another
espresso. Tarantino, Star Wars,
Breaking Bad. Another espresso
and ... the market is closed.
“Dear?”
“Yes?”
“I'm taking you out for lunch”
“You didn’t reach the market?”
“Yes”
“Another coffee again?”
A
APPS
Zagreb
be There
Meet in
Zagreb
Zagreb
Places
MORE INFO
Visiting Zagreb
in spring is super,
especially because the Dolac market comes alive.
At this colorful
marketplace,
you’ll find fresh
fruit, veg and
sundry foodstuffs
by small producers from all over
Croatia. It’s the
best spot to feel
the spirit of old
Zagreb and get
the taste of the
city – literally.
Don’t miss
the “Kumica”
statue, built in
honor of women who have
fed the city over
the centuries.
With spring come
wild asparagus,
the highlight of
the season. The
stalls of Dolac
get filled with
this indigenous
vegetable that
Croats adore.
Learn how to
+
Asparagus is
both food and
medicine.
People can
eat it any
way they
want but I
like my
asparagus
with eggs
NO GUIDE? NO PROBLEM!
The VoiceGuide app enables everyone to tour the
city alone yet with help of
an experienced guide.
The app also works offline.
HOW TO GET AROUND TOWN
It’s best to walk. Most of Zagreb’s
sights & attractions are right in
the city center. So explore on
foot.
WEEKEND LULL
Most offices and shops close on
Saturday afternoon. Shopping
malls on the outskirts of town
remain open. For info, tourists
can always come to the Tourist
Information Centers.
NEED TO KNOW
FOR SMOKERS
prepare this delicacy at the culinary
workshops run by
Kuhaona, located
right above Dolac,
or sample the
local spring staple,
asparagus omelet,
at one of Zagreb’s
restaurants, like
Lanterna and
Kerempuh.
Dolac has been located on
the site of the old walls on Pod
Zidom street (means ‘under the wall’)
since 1930, when the old Harmica market was moved from the main square.
4 am
ONE FACTORY WITH
FIVE NEW COOL CLUBS
Everyone in Zagreb knows the
address of Katran: Radnička 27.
This former factory just got its fifth
club. SuperSuper, once a workers’
changing room now with sofas in its
bathroom, has rounded up the night
party repertoire. alongside Depo,
Podmornica, Museum and Shock
Show Industry. During the day,
Katran’s industrial interiors are used
for shooting editorials and videos.
And, yes, Mario is there.
Many cafes, bars and
clubs tolerate smokers
but where it says smoking
is prohibited, take your
smoke outside.
A FEE TO PEE
Public toilets at shops, markets
and bus and train stations charge two kunas.
Cafes and restaurants
will let you use the loo
for free.
FOR CHEEP BEER...
Finding cheap beer in the city
center isn’t easy. But skip the
center and you’ll find
great neighborhood
haunts. Our pick: Krivi
Put on Savska.
WINE TIP
If you like white wine, try graševina, the most common Croatian
white grape variety, or the Istrian
malvazija. If red’s your thing, go
for plavac mali, especially great
from the Dingač and Postup wine
regions.
CHOW DOWN AT 5 AM
The best way to wrap up your
night out is with greasy ćevapčići,
served with onion. For the
best, head to Dolac.