Vaš besplatan primjerak Your complimentary copy

L je to 2 0 1 2 . B roj 30 / S ummer 2012 N o 30
Va š b e s p l a t a n p r i m j e ra k
Your compl imenta r y copy
Sadržaj / Contents
32
42
104
Susret predsjednika avio kompanija iz ex-Yu����������������10
Regionalna saradnja- put ka prevazilazenju krize
Montenegro Airlines leti u London�����������������������������������14
Ovog ljeta London je centar svijeta
Neobična iskustva – Ronilac�������������������������������������������32
Bliže od Maldiva
Intervju - Dedduh, iz Who See Klape���������������������������42
Meštri ceremonija sami pišu tekstove…
Podgoričko vrelo ljeto������������������������������������������������������56
HIP HOP – Asfaltiranje 2012.
124
70
142
Meeting of the presidents of ex-Yu avio companies12
Regional co-operation – road to overcoming
the crisis
Montenegro Airlines flies to London�����������������������20
This Summer London is the world center
Unusual experiences – The Diver������������������������������36
Closer than Maldives
Interview – Dedduh, a half of Who See Band��������46
Masters of ceremonies write their own texts
Hot summer in Podgorica��������������������������������������������58
Hip-hop – Paving 2012
Barski ljetopis�����������������������������������������������������������������������70
More, sunce, pozorište, note…
Festival Bar Chronicles���������������������������������������������������72
The sea, the sun, theatre, music notes…
Budva grad Teatar��������������������������������������������������������������76
Čovjek koji se smije je čovjek koji se ne boji
Theater city Budva����������������������������������������������������������78
A man who laughs is a man who is not afraid
Montenegro Dance Festival, Tivat��������������������������������84
Zaplešimo!
Montenegro Dance Festival, Tivat�����������������������������85
Let’s Dance!
Purgatorije 2012, Tivat������������������������������������������������������88
Po mediteranski
Purgatory 2012, Tivat�����������������������������������������������������90
Mediterranean way
Kotor Art 2012���������������������������������������������������������������������94
Umjetnost će okupirati sve pjace!
Kotor Art 2012������������������������������������������������������������������96
All the Piazzas will be Occupied with Art!
Ko bi to rekao?�������������������������������������������������������������������100
U pećini svetilište
Who would tell?������������������������������������������������������������ 102
Sacred place in the cave
Nj. V. Princ Nikola II Petrović Njegoš��������������������������104
Neka bude što biti ne može!
H.M. Prince Nikola II Petrović Njegoš��������������������� 110
Let it be what cannot be!
Rukomet - Za Crnu Goru: Svi!���������������������������������������116
Godina lavljeg srca
Handball – ALL for Montenegro!���������������������������� 120
Year of Lion’s Heart
Olimijada 2012.�����������������������������������������������������������������124
Olimpijska magija
Olympic Games 2012�������������������������������������������������� 126
Olympic Magic
Crnogorske TOP destinacije������������������������������������������130
Odličan, pet!
Iz istorije naših gradova - Ulcinj����������������������������������134
Eho gusarske slave
Lijepe naše plaže��������������������������������������������������������������142
Svečano podizanje Plavih zastavica
Crnogorska kužina�����������������������������������������������������������146
Krap na podgorički način
00
146
Impressum
Inflight Magazine No 30
Ljeto 2012. / Summer 2012
Uređuje i izdaje / Editing and Publishing
Montenegro Airlines, Marketing & Corporative Communications Department,
Mr Aleksandra Gardašević-Slavuljica
Dizajn, priprema za Štampu i oglaŠavanje /
design, prepress and ADs
Glavni i odgovorni urednik / Editor-in-chief
Nada Bukilić
Art direktor / Art Director
Vuk Eraković
DIZAJN / DESIGN
Vuk Eraković
tekstovi / TEXTS
Nada Bukilić, Ćazim Nikezić, Merin Smailagić, Olga Žulović, Vojislav
Kaluđerović, Milena Radojević, Danica Ćeranić, Maja Milačić, Ana Marković,
Goran Barović, Mustafa Canka, Veljko Vujanović, Bratislav Kokolj
Fotografija / Photo
Duško Miljanić, Slaven Vilus, Risto Božović, Anes Lekić
NASLOVNA STRANA / cover page
Slaven Vilus
TEHNIČKI UREDNIK / TECHNICAL EDITOR
Nikola Kumburović
Oglašavanje / Advertising
Jelena Dragutinović
Tel: +382 (0)20 664 283
E-mail: [email protected]
Prevodioc / Translator
Dubravka Jocović
Lektor / proofreader
Dr Sanja Šubarić
Štampa / Printed by DPC & Grafotisak Grude
Tiraž / Number of copies: 5000
Montenegrin TOP destinations ������������������������������ 132
Straight A!
From history of our towns – Ulcinj������������������������� 138
Echo of pirates’ fame
South stories – our beautiful beaches������������������ 144
Festive rising of Blue flags
Montenegro Airlines
Beogradska 10, 81000 Podgorica,
Montenegro, tel: +382 (0)20 405 501
fax: +382 (0)20 405 528
E-mail: [email protected]
www.montenegroairlines.com
Montenegrin cuisine��������������������������������������������������� 148
Carp prepared in Podgorica way
Pričam ti priču��������������������������������������������������������������������150
Hodam ja po pijesku, kad tamo …
Let me tell you a story������������������������������������������������ 154
I was strolling on the sand, when all of a
sudden…
Crnogorska savremena poezija�����������������������������������158
Milorad Popović
Modern Montenegrin Poetry����������������������������������� 160
Milorad Popović
8
88
Montenegro Advertising and Production Agency
Stadion Budućnosti, Ul. 19. decembra 13, 81000 Podgorica, Montenegro
tel: +382 (0)20 664 283
[email protected]
www.mapa.co.me
ISSN 1800-5462
Poštovani putnici,
Dear passengers,
Ljeto sve nas asocira na dinamične i lijepe događaje, opuštanja, a
prije svega putovanja. Imajući to u vidu, u Montenegro Airlinesu
smo se potrudili da ovogodišnju ljetnju ponudu učinimo što
atraktivnijom.
We all associate summer with dynamic and pleasant events, relaxation, and
above all, traveling. Having that in mind, we in Montenegro Airlines have tried
to make this summer offer as attractive as possible.
Ljetnji mjeseci su za našu kompaniju vrijeme realizacije brojnih
projekata koje smo pripremali tokom godine. I ove ljetnje sezone
ćemo, kao svih prethodnih, dati punu podršku crnogorskom
turizmu. Pored široke mreže međunarodnih linija i naš charter
saobraćaj u potpunosti je stavljen u službu crnogorske turističke
privrede. Posredstvom naših partnera biće obavljeno preko 400
ino-charter letova namijenjenih turistima.
Fasten your seatbelts!
10
President’s message
U toku ljetnje sezone 2012. godine svi naši redovni letovi imaće
pojačan broj rotacija. Svi koji žele da dođu u Crnu Goru na odmor,
poslovno ili turistički, imaju mogućnost da biraju između mnogo
ponuđenih opcija, kako sa apekta destinacija, tako i tarifa, kupovine
karata preko interneta i sl. Pozivajući naše poslovnice širom Evrope,
dobićete informacije o povoljnostima koje smo pripremili za Vas.
Sada kada ste se već udobno smjestili u sjedište, za prijatnije
trenutke Vašeg leta spremili smo ovaj Inflight magazin u kome ćete
naći mnoštvo, kako zanimljivih, tako i korisnih informacija.
Dragi putnici, ako u Crnu Goru dolazite turistički, želim Vam prijatan
odmor u našoj zemlji. Ukoliko dolazite poslovno, želim Vam mnogo
uspjeha i ugodan boravak, a prije svega želim Vam da uživate u
ovom putovanju.
For our company, summer months are time of realization of numerous
projects that we have been preparing during the year. As we did in previous
seasons, this time we will also fully support Montenegrin tourism. Beside
wide network of international lines, our charter is also fully working for
Montenegrin tourist economy. With the help of our partners, we will provide,
especially for tourists, over 400 charter flights to foreign countries.
During summer season 2012, all our regular flights will have bigger number
of rotations. All those who want to come to Montenegro on vacation, for
business or as tourists, will have the opportunity to choose among many
offered options, from aspect of destinations, as well as from aspect of prices,
on-line purchase of tickets, and so on. By calling our business departments
all over Europe, You will get information about special offers we designed
especially for You.
Now, that You are already comfortably seated, for more pleasant moments
of Your flight, we prepared this Inflight magazine, where You will find many
interesting and useful information.
Dear passengers, if You are coming to Montenegro as tourists, I wish You an
enjoyable vacation in our country. If You are coming for business, I wish You a
lot of success and pleasant staying, and above all, I wish You enjoy this flight.
Srdačno,
Sincerely,
Dr Zoran Djurisic, Engineer
Chairman of the Board of Directors
Montenegro Airlines
dr Zoran Đurišić, dipl. inž.,
predsjednik Odbora direktora
Montenegro Airlinesa
11
Susret predsjednika avio kompanija
sa prostora ex-Yu
Regionalna
saradnja - put ka
prevazilaženju
krize
M
iločer, Budva, 19.05.2012. godine – Montenegro Airlines bio je
domaćin sastanka na kome su se
okupili predsjednici četiri nacionalne aviokompanije sa prostora bivše Jugoslavije.
Susret je bio prilika da se razmjene iskustva
i razmotre mogućnosti o unaprjeđenju saradnje. Viši nivo saradnje avio-kompanija
unutar regiona jugoistočne Evrope mogla
bi da značajno unaprijedi mobilnost ljudi i
ubrza procese razvoja avio kompanija.
Sve četiri avio-kompanije su tehnički i
tehnološki spremne da zadovolje potrebe
mobilnosti svojih građana, ali i turističke
tražnje, koja je posebno izražena u ljetnjim
mjesecima. Međutim, njihovi kapaciteti
nisu dovoljno iskorišteni. Poznato je da od
postojećih 10 do 12 miliona putnika sa teritorije bivše Jugoslavije, svega 40% prevoze četiri nacionalna avio-prevoznika. Ostale
putnike prevoze inostrani prevoznici prisutni na našim tržištima.
Na susretu je konstatovano da postoje
brojne mogućnosti za unaprjeđenje saradnje. Tu se prije svega misli na bilateralne
sporazume među regionalnim kompanijama, code-share ugovore, usklađivanje re12
dova letjenja. Pored navedenog, razmatrane su mogućnosti uzajamne eksploatacije
flota, povezivanje postojećih linija, zajedničku nabavku goriva, opreme za avione i
nadogradnja postojećih tehnologija.
Kao što je poznato, opšte stanje u avio industriji i dalje je veoma zabrinjavajuće. Na
globalnom nivou, brojne su kompanije koje posluju sa enormnim gubicima. Dakle,
bez obzira na povećanje broja putnika, limitirajući faktori razvoja avio kompanija su
visoke cijene goriva, aerodromskih usluga,
cijene usluga opsluživanja aviona... Svi koji
su u vrijednosnom lancu vazdušnog saobraćaja, ostvaruju profit, osim avio prevoznika koji preuzimaju najveći rizik.
Susret predsjednika avio kompanija okončan je pres konferencijom, kojoj je prisustvovao veliki broj novinara, kako iz zemlje,
tako i iz inostranstva. Ovom prilikom, predsjednik Montenegro Airlinesa, Zoran Đurišić
istakao je da je ideja da se na jednom mjestu okupe čelnici avio-kompanija sa prostora ex-Jugoslavije, potvrdila svoju održivost.
„Imali smo intenzivne razgovore, koji su bili
krajnje konstruktivni. Razmijenili smo isku-
stva u funkcionisanju nacionalnih avioprevoznika i prezentovali probleme sa kojima
se susrijećemo. Takođe smo definisali neke
konkretne ideje kako da te probleme umanjimo. Raduje činjenica da je ovo prvi u nizu sastanaka ovog tipa, koji će da uslijede.”,
izjavio je dr Đurišić.
Glavni direktor Croatia Airlinesa, Srećko
Simunović, izjavio je da kompanije nisu
jedna drugoj konkurencija i da je svaki vid
saradnje više nego dobrodošao. Bliža međusobna saradnja neophodna je da bi se
maksimalno iskoristili pojedinačni kapaciteti svake kompanije.
Generalni direktor JAT Airwaysa, Vladimir
Ognjenović i Klemen Boštjančič, izvršni direktor Adria Airwaysa, takođe su saglasni u
ocjeni da je saradnja neophodna, da sve
kompanije imaju slične probleme i da se
nadaju da će ubrzo prvi rezultati saradnje
biti vidljivi.
Na kraju dvodnevnog susreta, čelni ljudi
avio kompanija iz regiona poslali su jasnu
poruku da će unaprjeđenjem međusobne
saradnje, najviše koristi imati putnici koji će
lakše i jeftinije stizati do željenih destinacija.
13
Meeting of the presidents of
ex-Yugoslavian aviation companies
Regional
co-operation
road to
overcoming
the crisis
M
iločer, Budva, May 19 2012,
Montenegro Airlines was a host
of meeting, where the presidents
of four national aviation companies from
ex-Yugoslavia gathered. This meeting presented an opportunity to exchange experiences and consider options of advancing
the co-operation. Higher level of co-operation among aviation companies inside
the region of South-east Europe, could significantly improve mobility of people and
speed up the process of aviation companies’ development.
All four aviation companies are prepared,
both technically and technologically, to
satisfy the needs of their own citizens, as
well as the needs of tourist demand, which
is especially significant during summer
months. However, their capacities are not
being used sufficiently. There is record that
out of existing 10 to 12 million passengers
from territory of ex-Yugoslavia, only 40% of
them are traveling by four national aviation carriers. The rest of the passengers, travel with foreign companies, present on our
markets.
This meeting stated that there are numerous possibilities for improvement of cooperation. Above all, bilateral agreements
between regional companies, code-share
14
contracts and synchronizing time of departures, are meant by that. Beside previously stated things, the possibilities of
mutual exploitation of fleets, connection
of existing lines, joint supply of fuel and aero-equipment, and advancing of existing
technologies, had been considered.
national aero-companies and presented
problems that we encountered. We have
also defined some concrete ideas how to
diminish such problems. I am glad that this
was the first of many meetings of this type that are about to happen”, declared dr
Đurišić.
It is well known that general state in aeroindustry is still very concerning. On global level, numerous companies work with
enormous losses. So, regardless of increased number of passengers, limiting factors
of aero-companies’ development are high
prices of fuel, airport taxes, prices of plane
servicing … Anyone included in profitable
chain of air transport gains profit, except for
aero companies, who take the biggest risk.
General president of Croatia Airlines,
Srećko Simunović, said that these companies are not competing with each other,
and that any form of co-operation is more
than welcome. Closer mutual co-operation
is necessary, in order to use individual capacities of each company to the maximum.
The meeting of aero-companies’ presidents ended with press conference, which
was attended by large number of journalists, from our country, as well as from
abroad. On this occasion, president of
Montenegro Airlines, Zoran Đurišić, pointed out that the idea to gather leaders of
aero-companies from ex-Yu countries in
one place, confirmed its sustainability.
“We had some intensive conversations
that proved to be highly constructive. We
exchanged experiences in functioning of
General president of JAT Airways, Vladimir
Ognjenović and Klemen Boštjančič, executive director of Adria Airways, also agree
on estimate that co-operation is necessary,
that all the companies encounter similar
problems, and that they are all looking
forward to seeing the first results of this
co-operation.
In the end of two-day meeting, leading people of aero-companies from the region,
sent a clear message, that the passengers,
who will get to desired destinations more
easily and cheaply, will have the most benefits of this mutual co-operation.
15
Montenegro Airlines leti u London
Ovog je ljeta
London centar
svijeta
16
17
U ovom gradu prekrasnih parkova, brojnih muzeja i
galerija, spomenika, crkava i katedrala, ali i neobičnih
modernih građevina, bije puls multikulturalnog života
metropole koja je još davne 1811. godine imala milion
stanovnika
Tekst: Marija Jovićević
T
Bakingemska palata
Bakingemska palata osvaja grandioznošću. Na njenom ulazu postavljen je spomenik kraljici Viktoriji. Bakingemska palata je kraljičina rezidencija, ali i kancelarija. Kada je kraljica u kući, na njoj se vijori britanska zastava. Zdanje ima 600
soba, 78 kupatila, 92 kancelarije, bioskop, bazen, poštu i policijsku stanicu. U palati je zaposleno 400 ljudi, uključujući i
dvoje koji vode računa o čak 300 satova. Svake godine više od 50.000 ljudi dođe u palatu. Riječ je o kraljičinim gostima
na banketima, ručkovima, večerama i prijemima.
18
eško je dočarati ljepotu metropole za
koju je slavni pisac Samuel Džonson
rekao: "Kada se čovjek zasiti Londona,
zasitio se i samog života“.
Jedna vožnja od aerodroma Hitrou do
Trafalgar skvera dovoljna je da se zaljubite u
London. Iako ima i romantičnijih i glamuroznijih gradova, London osvaja životom koji
pulsira na svakom njegovom mjestu: od šetnje po Oksford stritu, vožnje dabldekerima,
mirisa kebaba u istočnom Londonu, ili ribe,
pomfrita, crnog piva i vina u pabu u njegovom zapadnom dijelu, do gužve u Sitiju i
relaksirajućeg čaja u pet sati. Od pozorišnih predstava na Vest endu ili romantičnih
ponoćnih šetnji uz Embankment, od rijeke
Temze do Tauer bridža, i dalje do divnih predgrađa u kojima se mir i tišina smjenjuju sa
cvrkutom ptica — život vibrira na sve strane.
Ali, to nije ista, klasična priča velikih biznis
centara širom svijeta. London je poseban jer
pripada svima. Teško je osjećati se kao stranac u gradu u kojem je tako puno stranaca.
Bogatstvo nacija, rasa, kultura, ukusa, stilova,
hrane, religija, muzike, svega onoga što ljudi
donose u London, ovaj grad čini jedinstvenim.
U najvećem gradu Velike Britanije i Evrope
živi sedam i po miliona stanovnika svih rasa
i nacija. U njemu se može čuti oko tri stotine različitih jezika. Svuda u Londonu vide se
nove, drugačije stvari, neobični ljudi, građevine, stilovi. Niko nikog ne imitira - London ima
svoju modu.
U ovom gradu prekrasnih parkova, brojnih
muzeja i galerija, spomenika, crkava i katedrala, ali i neobičnih modernih građevina,
bije puls multikulturalnog života metropole
koja je još davne 1811. godine imala milion
stanovnika.
Među nezaobilaznim znamenitostima grada
jesu umjetnički hramovi - Britanski muzej,
Nacionalna galerija, impresivna Tejt galerija s izloženim djelima Matisa i Pikasa. Ispred
muzeja se prostire predivno šetalište uz
Temzu, gdje se možete nakratko odmoriti...
19
U blizini je i Gloub, rekonstrukcija slavnog
Šekspirovog pozorišta.
Kad krenete u osvajanje Londona računajte
na dugo brzo hodanje i vožnju najljepšim
metroom na svijetu. U londonskoj podzemnoj željeznici sve je uređeno sa stilom
- osvojiće vas svojim šarmom i jedinstvenošću. Čuveni "tjub" pušten je u promet davne
1863. i najstariji je metro na svijetu. Danas povezuje 273 stanice na dvanaest linija.
Za London je potrebno makar sedam dana
da bi se upoznale sve njegove znamenitosti.
Ono što se ne smije propustiti jeste Britanski
parlament, Big Ben, Vestminster ebi, katedrala Sent Pol, Pikadili sirkus, Trafalgar skver…
Kompleks Big Bena i zgrade parlamenta nevjerovatan je. I ne kaže se badava da niste bili
u Londonu ako ne vidite Britanski parlament
koji korijene vuče iz davnog XII vijeka. Uz samo zdanje nastao je slavni sat Big Ben, za koji
niko nije ni pomišljao da će postati jedna od
najprepoznatljivijih znamenitosti Londona i
najpoznatiji sat na svijetu.
I
V
O
N ri
e
n
t
r
a
p
a
j
a
d
o
r
p
na
E
T
A
R
Mostovi na Temzi su posebna atrakcija. Ima
ih čak 34. Najstariji od njih je London bridž,
koji je originalno bio napravljen od drveta,
ali je davne 1209. godine zamijenjen kamenim mostom. Godine 1831. napravljen je od
granita. Jedan od čuvenih mostova jeste i pokretni Tauer bridž.
Ne smijete propustiti od ni "Londonsko oko",
jednom od najnovijih londonskih znamenitosti - veliki kotur, najveći na svijetu, nudi impresivan pogled na grad danju i noću, kao i
vožnju iz snova.
• A
vioni Montenegro Airlinesa saobraćaju tri puta nedeljno za/iz Londona.
• S rijedom i nedjeljom saobraća se iz
Tivta, a petkom iz Podgorice.
• Let traje tri sata.
• A
vioni Montenegro Airlinesa slijeću
na londonski aerodrom Gaetwick.
Šoping iz snova
Za one manje zainteresovane za umjetnost uvijek postoji čuveni Oksford strit,
sa preko 300 radnji. More ljudi opsjeda ovu ulicu i njene butike. Ni tri dana
nisu dovoljna da se dobro obiđe čitava ulica. A londonske cijene? Pa, za neko
pićence u pabu trebaće vam suma koju biste u Crnoj Gori potrošili na turu za
četvoro ljudi.
20
Sve u svemu, čeka vas grad u kojem je umjetnost življenja dostigla vrhunac, megalopolis
koji ni Crnogorcima više nije daleko - od 15.
juna svi zainteresovani zahvaljujući letovima
Montenegro Airlinesa dva puta sedmično,
za manje od tri sata, biće u prilici da uživaju
u svim blagodetima ove, kako je često zovu,
evropske prijestonice.
PREDUZEĆE ZA UNUTRAŠNJU I SPOLJNU TRGOVINU
žiro račun: 510-9800-31 i 505-408-11; PIB: 02378094; PDV: 30/31-03854-6
Montenegro Airlines flies to London
London is the Center of the
world this Summer
22
This city of lovely parks,
numerous museums and
galleries, monuments,
churches and cathedrals,
and unusual modern
buildings, pulsates with
the multicultural life of a
metropolis, which had a
population of one million
as early as in 1811
23
Text: Marija Jovicević
I
t is difficult to describe the beauty of
the metropolis of which the famous
writer Samuel Johnson said: “When a
man is tired of London, he is tired of life
itself.”
The ride from Heathrow Airport to
Trafalgar Square is enough to fall in love
with London. Even though there are more romantic and glamorous cities, London
conquers with its pulsating life that is present everywhere: from a walk along Oxford
Street, a ride on a double-decker, the smell
of kebabs in East London, or fish and chips
and beer or wine in a pub located in the
West End, to the City rush-hour and a relaxing cup of tea at five o’clock. From the
West End plays or romantic midnight walks
along the Embankment by the Thames to
Tower Bridge, and further along to the beautiful suburbs and their peace and quiet,
broken only by the birds chirping – a life
that vibrates everywhere you look.
Buckingham Palace
Buckingham Palace fascinates by its grandeur. There is a
monument to Queen Victoria at its entrance. Buckingham
Palace is both the residence and office of the Queen.
When the Queen is home, the Royal Standard flies above the palace. The building has 600 rooms, 78 bathrooms,
92 offices, a cinema, a swimming pool, a post office and
24
a police station. Four hundred people work in the palace, including two whose duty it is to take care of three
hundred clocks. Every year, over 50,000 people visit the
palace. They are the Queen’s guests at banquets, lunches,
dinners, receptions and garden parties.
But this is not the same classical story of
the great business centres of the world.
London is special because it belongs to
everybody. It is difficult to feel like a foreigner in a city so full of foreigners. This
profusion of nations, races, cultures, tastes,
styles, food, religions, music, everything
that people bring with them to London, is
what makes this city unique.
Seven and a half million people of all races
and nations live in the biggest city of the
United Kingdom and of Europe. One can
hear around three hundred different languages there. All around London, new and
very different things can be seen, unusual
people, buildings, styles. There are no copycats – London has its own fashion.
This city of lovely parks, numerous museums and galleries, monuments, churches
and cathedrals, and unusual modern buildings, pulsates with the multicultural life
of a metropolis, which had a population of
one million as early as in 1811.
The must-see places of the city include
the temples of art – the British Museum,
the National Gallery, the impressive Tate
Gallery, featuring exhibits by Matisse and
Picasso. A marvellous promenade along
the Thames spreads in front of the museum, where one can take a short break... A
reconstruction of Shakespeare’s theatre,
the Globe, is also in the vicinity.
When you start conquering London, you
can ride on the shiniest subway in the
world. Everything is designed with style
in the London underground – you will be
overwhelmed by its charm and uniqueness. The famous “tube” was opened back
in 1863 and it is the oldest subway in the
world. Today, it connects 273 stations
along twelve lines.
It takes at least seven days to get to know
all the monuments of London. Everybody
should see the Houses of Parliament,
Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, Saint Paul’s
Cathedral, Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar
Square...
25
The complex encompassing the Clock
Tower and the Houses of Parliament is
astonishing. And it is not said in vain that
you haven’t been in London until you’ve
seen the British Parliament which dates all
the way back to the 12th century. The famous clock tower and its bell “Big Ben” was
erected next to it, and nobody could have
guessed back then that it would become
one of the most recognizable monuments
in London and the best known clock tower
in the world.
The bridges over the Thames River are a
special attraction. There are as many as 34
of them. The oldest one is London Bridge,
which was originally built of wood, but replaced with a stone bridge back in 1209.
In 1831 it was built of granite. One of the
most famous bridges is a drawbridge –
Tower Bridge.
You mustn’t miss the opportunity to see
the London Eye, one of the latest monuments in the city – a big wheel, the biggest
one in the world, offering an impressive
view over the city both day and night,
along with a dream ride.
In brief, you are in for a city where the art
of living has peaked, a megalopolis that
is no longer that distant to Montenegrins
– from 15 June, all interested people will
have an opportunity to enjoy, thanks to
Montenegro Airlines flying there twice
a week in less than 3 hours, the beauties
of this, as it is often referred, the capital of
Europe.
Dream shopping
For those less interested in art, there is always Oxford Street,
with over 300 shops. Rivers of people besiege this street and
its boutiques. Three entire days are not sufficient to visit the
entire street. London prices? Well, a small drink in a pub will
cost you the same as a round for four people in Montenegro.
26
• M
ontenegro Airlines flies to/from
London three times a week, on
Wednesdays and Sundays from
Tivat on the Montenegrin coast,
and on Fridays from the capital
Podgorica.
• The flight lasts three hours.
• M
ontenegro Airlines flies to
London airport Gatwick.
Hotel Vardar, Kotor ◆ Telefon + 382 32 32 50 84 ◆ Fax + 382 32 32 50 74
[email protected] ◆ www.hotelvardar.com
Restoran Galion, Kotor ◆ telefon + 382 32 32 50 54
PROIZVODNJA:
Majevička br. 18
Tel: + 382 20 262 277
81000 Podgorica,
Crna Gora
www.doding.co.me
SHOW ROOM:
Cetinjski put bb
(preko puta Delta city-ja)
Mob: 069 018 181
Tel: + 382 20 290 290
Porto Montenegro
Trebinje
Dubrovnik
3D Naselje “Dubrovnik Heights”
Pogled vredan milion
Villa type 1
Villa type 2
Građevinske parcele od 450 do 1.000 kvadratnih metara po ceni od 50 i od 60 eura po kvadratu. Mogućnost gradnje po sistemu “ključ
u ruke”. Kompletna infrastruktura - obezbeđena. Vila bez bazena, od 140 kvadratnih metara - samo 142.000 eura. Mogućnost kreditiranja Hypo-Alpe Adria Banke.
Ivanica - BiH, na samoj granici sa Hrvatskom, sa predivnim pogledom na Dubrovačku rivijeru: Cavtat, Plat, Mlini, Srebreno, Kupari i
budući Golf Park Dubrovnik, na samo 6 km od Dubrovnika, 14 km od dubrovačkog aerodroma, 18 km od Trebinja, 28 km od Herceg
Novog.
Crveno more
Neobična iskustva – Ronilac
Bliže od
Maldiva
Tekst, fotografije: Veljko Vujanović
Veljko Vujanović
Č
ovjek nije riba i boraviti pod vodom
je, naravno, vrlo neobično iskustvo.
Pod vodom zavisite od mnogo faktora i, zato, nije lako biti ronilac. Ali, kad je
čovjek mlad, posebno kad je mlad duhom
(i pomalo „lud”), ide za svojim fascinacijama
ne brinući previše o opasnostima i nevoljama. A pod vodom je sve fascinantno: od
oblika i boja živog svijeta, preko boja koje
stvara prelamanje svjetlosti što sa visina
prodire u vodene dubine, vodenih struja i
Murina u Crvenom moru
Volim da pričam o ronilačkim iskustvima. Bilo je to poodavno, ali me taj vodeni svijet toliko fascinirao da su sva moja
sjećanja i danas potpuno živa, jasna i jednako bogata. Vi ste
moj Prijatelj, kojem ću rado ispričati neke „podvodne priče”
raznovrsnih ćudljivosti ovog svijeta tišine,
pa sve do začudnih igara prirode sa stijenama, pećinama, kamenim stupicama i
dugim hodnicima u vodenoj tmini…
Naravno, uvijek je najzanimljivije ono što je
i najopasnije. Kao, recimo, ronjenje u podvodnim pećinama. U pećini Sopot, ka kojoj
je prelijep pogled iz Risna, posebno u doba bogatih padavina kada prorade izvori i
vrulje u moru, imao sam jednu od avantura
koje se pamte cio vijek. Do tada sam ronio
uglavnom u otvorenom moru, ali mojim
klupskim prijateljima nije bilo teško da me
nagovore da zaronim i u Sopot (u vrijeme
niskog vodostaja!). Uz manjak opreme i
uz višak samopouzdanja, krenuli smo kroz
pećinski otvor sa kopna, pored same magistrale. (Moram vam reći da, kada krenete
na ronjenje u pećine, morate biti dvostruko opremljeniji nego na moru: dva regulatora, rezervne boce vazduha itd, a mi ništa
od toga nijesmo imali!)
Više sreće
no pameti
Od ulaza sa magistrale, nas dva ronioca i
naša dva pratioca, hodali smo uskim hodnikom kroz zemlju bar 400 metara dok
nijesmo, u tami pećine, stigli do vode. U
stvari, našli smo se nad „bunarom” – naš
podzemni hodnik završavao se vertikalno
naniže, ka vodi. Okomite litice zijevale su
u nas svojim kamenim zubima, bar sa šest,
sedam metara dužine. A dolje je hučalo
more. Odatle smo skočili – u nepoznato!
Mislim da je to prije nas učinio samo jedan
ronilac, Paljetak.
Kako smo upali u vodu, zaronili smo.
Rasvjeta koju sam nosio radi podvodnog
34
snimanja, obasjala je nevjerovatan prizor:
predivna, ogromna pećina sa velikim galerijama, sa mnoštvom svjetlucavih ukrasa,
sa neobičnim, do tada nam nepoznatim
stvorenjima tamnih dubina, koja se povlače pred svjetlošću, nenaviknuta i vjerovatno, uplašena… Ronili smo sve dublje i dublje i spustili se čitavih 34 m. Zanosila nas
je raskoš tamnog svijeta, nijema tajnovitost
dubine, jedinstvenost pećine kojoj je čovjek posve strano biće.
Ali, jedan od naših pratilaca, koji je ostao
na rubu onog bunara, dobio je pravi klaustrofobični napad i onaj drugi morao se
postarati da što hitnije izađe iz pećine. Zato
smo mi u vodi ostali prepušteni sami sebi
i sreći koja nas je pratila ili nije – nijesmo
znali!
I, kako to obično i biva kad se čovjek da
u igru sa nadmoćnom prirodom, počeli
su problemi: prvo mi je otkazao regulator
vazduha, što je izazvalo zaglušujuću tutnjavu pod vodom (oh, da samo znate kako
to zvuči još u pećini!); onda sam morao da
se „prikopčam” na rezervnu bocu vazduha
mog kolege, a da obojica ostanemo mirni
i prisebni. Uspjeli smo, sreća je ipak bila uz
nas, i izronili smo – sad su litice bunara bile
iznad nas!
Nevjerovatno kolika nas je sreća onda pratila.
Čekali smo, činilo nam se dugo i predugo,
u hladnoj vodi (najviše 7 ºC) da se vrati naš
pratilac i pomogne nam da izađemo iz bunara. Kad je stigao, bacio nam je konop i
pomoću njega smo se izvukli do suvog zagrljaja zemlje i kamena.
Bili smo očarani svojim podvigom, onim
što smo vidjeli, onim što smo uspjeli. Nije
mala stvar, zar ne, upoznati jednu tajnu prirode tako izbliza i tako direktno?
Ronio sam sa Stivensom i snimao. Kasnije
sam od tog materijala montirao kratki film
„Sanote Čaka Stivensa”. Sanote su jezerca
kroz koja se ulazi u podvodni pećinski svijet Jukatana. Sanote se pominju i u mitovima Maja, i zbilja, takve su da vam se čini
da su iz nekih pra-priča, iz snova i sjećanja
davnih, moćnih bogova, i stvorene. Čak
Stivenson je, inače, rekorder u pećinskom
ronjenju, jer je preronio pećinski sistem od
52 km!
Međutim, prošlo je bar tri godine od tada,
imah sreće pa odoh na ronjenje sa svjetskim rekorderom u pećinskom ronjenju,
Čakom Stivensom. Ronili smo kod poluostrva Jukatan, Meksiko. E, tada sam se
stvarno uplašio za sebe ondašnjeg. Jer,
tada sam prvi put vidio šta sve ronilac
mora da ima ako želi roniti kroz pećine!
Moj kolega ronilac, Vladan Dubljević, koji
je po struci geolog, nije odolio – potrudio
se da organizuje preronjavanje i upoznavanje pećina Bokokotorskog zaliva, ne da
bi našao naše sanote, već da bi se makar
kartografisale te podvodne ljepotice. Sa
Klodom Tulumžijanom, jednim od najvećih
svjetskih ronilaca kroz pećine, preronio je:
Kroz naše pećine
35
U potjeri za Napoleonom
momcima na brodu, a ja se vratio u vodu.
Vidio sam koleginicu iz grupe kako izranja,
pa sam se odmah uputio k njoj. Dograbio
sam je, onako kako to radi svaki čovjek kad
je u opasnosti, i, koliko sam umio, signalima joj “objasnio” da moram ostati još pod
vodom. Koleginica je, srećom, sve odmah
shvatila i ostala sa mnom na dubini od tričetiri metra, sve dok nijesmo potrošili sav
vazduh iz njene boce. Spasila mi je život
jer mi je omogućila prijeko potrebnu dekompresiju. Za to vrijeme, Lelo je na brodu
dobio čisti kiseonik, tako da smo obojica
prošli bez posljedica. Doduše, i sad mi pomalo zuji u ušima, ali to nije velika cijena
za ono ushićenje, radost i uzbuđenje koje
sam doživio upoznavši ljepote Maldiva. A
sitnica je u odnosu na ono što mi se moglo
desiti...
Sopot, Gurdić, Orahovačku pećinu, Ljutu…
i tako obezbijedio osnovna znanja neophodna svima koji se usude i zarone kroz
njih. Kažem – ako se ko usudi, jer je poznato da se od 30 000 ronilaca tek jedan bavi
pećinskim ronjenjem!
Žak Kustoov
sljedbenik
I danas volim podvodne pećine, iako sam
se u njih zaljubio tek na drugi pogled. A
moja prva ljubav probudila se kada sam,
kao dijete, gledao emisije koje je snimao
legendarni Žak Kusto! Da li zbog njegovog
umijeća ili zbog toga što sam već imao neobična interesovanja, tek bio sam uporan
da, pošto-poto, dodirnem, osjetim i osvojim ogromni vodeni svijet. Od djetinjstva,
godinama, vukla me je ta ista želja. Imao
sam gotovo četrdeset kad sam otišao na
ronjenje u tropska mora: Crveno more,
Indijski okean, Karibi… sve su to „adrese”
mojih najdražih uspomena.
36
I uvijek sam snimao! Ni sam nijesam vjerovao kada sam razvio fotografije iz Crvenog
mora (još nijesam imao digitalni aparat):
boje, boje, čarobne boje!
I na Maldivima, divnim ostrvima koja su sinonim za raj, snimio sam čitavu seriju nevjerovatnih prizora. Sve te fotografije izlagao sam na izložbama podvodne fotografije, s dubokom nadom da će oni koji ih vide, ako ne otići u ronioce, ono više cijeniti i
voljeti stvaralačku moć i vrijednost prirode.
Kad nekoga
nije strah
I na Maldivima mi se desila jedna ozbiljna
situacija; evo kako je to bilo: formirali smo
ronilačku grupu zajedno sa Italijanima.
Ukrcali smo se na brod koji je krstario između Maldivskih ostrva i sa kojeg smo mogli
svaki dan ići tri puta na zaron. Redovno
sam snimao ili fotografisao, a ponekad
bih se ‘naoružao’ i aparatom i video kamerom sa kućištem za podvodno snumanje.
Tokom posljednjih zarona, zanesen, zaboravio sam na jake podvodne struje u blizini
Maldivskih sprudova. Jednu od tih struja
popularno zovu „veš mašina”. Opasna je zato što, ako dograbi ronioca koji se odvojio
od spruda, izbaca ga na površinu velikom
brzinom, što je već opasno po život zbog
barotrauma. E, meni se baš to i desilo! Lelo,
Italijan iz Barija, moj partner i ja, pri ovom
zaronu smo se odmakli od spruda kako bih
mogao malo šire uhvatiti taj prelijepi kadar... Ali, struja nas je dograbila i izbacila na
površinu!
Najprije sam osjetio bolno i jako zujanje u
ušima. Sa dubine od 35 m, za par sekundi
smo se našli na površini! Kompjuter koji
sam nosio na ruci trebalo je da mi dâ sve
podatke o potrošnji vazduha, brzini izrona,
dekompresionim zastancima... Međutim,
on je potpuno otkazao i na displeju se pojavilo samo: ‘S.O. S.’
Ali, što je tu je. Sad je bilo neophodno da
obojica odemo što prije u bolnicu koja ima
barokomoru, ali – kako? Bili smo na sred arhipelaga! Zato sam ronilačku bocu dodao
Ni ovakvi događaji nijesu pomutili moju ljubav prema ronjenju. Ni slučajno! Jer,
ronjenje nije samo opasnost. Ono je očaravajuće iskustvo, koje vas čini posebnim
kada se susretnete tako sami i oči u oči sa
prirodom, i, iznad svega, ubjedljiv dokaz
da priroda, stvarajući čovjeka, ni slučajno
nije iscrpila svu svoju kreativnost i maštovitost… Svaki zaron pod vodu razbukti vatre adrenalina i za vas tada ne postoji strah.
Jednostavno, uživate u dubinama plavetnila, kao da letite kroz najljepše svjetove iz
bajki. Za mene je bilo veliko zadovoljstvo
što sam dio tih svojih doživljaja i utisaka
preko fotografija podijelio sa ljudima „sa
površine”.
Na površini
Od ronjenja me je odvojilo nešto sasvim
drugo – odvojile su me godine! Jer, ronjenje je iskustvo koje pripada jakom, mladom
i zdravom organizmu. Ali, moje godine su,
uistinu, more mojih predivnih i posebnih
uspomena.
Ronilačka iskustva su mi podigla kriterijume i sada ne mogu za bilo što reći ili
misliti da je ugodno, lijepo i vrijedno oka.
Zato sam uporno, u mojoj zemlji, tragao za
mjestom koje se može mjeriti sa ljepotama
prostora koje sam vidio i upoznao. Našao
sam ga na obali Tare. To je moj Grab, gdje
živim i radim, siguran da ni on ni ja ne zaostajemo: ja sa svojim uspomenama u odnosu na druge ljude, Grab sa svojim ljepotama u odnosu na daleke neke krajeve o
kojima zna cio svijet.
Danas sam srećan što moja porodica i ja
živimo u ovom prekrasnom kutku svijeta,
kao što sam zadovoljan i što prijatelji i gosti
koji nam dođu, odavde odnose najljepše
utiske. I, kada od njih, iz daleka dobijem
pozdrav, uz zahvalnost za ljepotu koju su
ovdje doživjeli, osjetim to kao ponovni, duboki zaron u ljepotu prirode i svijeta kojem
pripadamo.
Moj Grab je mnogo bliži od Maldiva.
Dođite!
37
Unusual experiences – The Diver
Closer than
Maldives
Text and photography by: Veljko Vujanović
I love talking about my diving experiences. It all happened a long time ago, but the sea world
fascinated me so much that all my memories are vivid, clear and equally rich even today. You
are my Friend, to whom I will gladly tell some of my “submarine stories”.
A
man is not a fish, and being under
water is, naturally, very unusual
experience. You are dependant on
many factors when under water, and thus,
it is not easy to be a diver. However, when a
man is young, especially when young-spirited (and a bit “crazy”), he follows his own
fascinations, not worrying too much about
dangers and troubles. And under water,
everything is fascinating: from shapes and
colours of living creatures, shades made by
fractured light that from heights perme-
ates watery depths, currents and diverse
moods of this world of quietness, all the
way to wondrous games of nature with rocks, caves, rock pitfalls and long corridors
in watery darkness…
Of course, the most dangerous things are
always the most interesting ones. Diving
in submarine caves, for example. In cave
Sopot, which can be seen from Risan, especially during rainfalls when springs and
whirlpools in the sea activate, I had an
adventure, the kind of which one can never forget. Until then, I dived in open sea,
but my club palls did not have hard time
to persuade me to dive in Sopot (during
low water level!). Not equipped properly,
but abundant in self-confidence, we made
it through cave hole on the ground, next
to the highway. (I must tell you that, when
you go diving in caves, you have to be twice as equipped as when you dive in the
sea: two regulators, spare oxygen bottles,
etc, and we had none of those!)
More luck than
brains
From the entrance on the highway, two of
us divers, and our two companions, were
walking along narrow corridor through
the soil for at least 400 meters, until, in the
darkness of the cave, we reached water.
Actually, we found ourselves above “well” –
our underground corridor ended vertically
downward, towards water. Upright cliffs
yawned at us with their rock teeth, from
a distance of at least six, to seven meters.
And the sea roared from within. From that
spot, we jumped into the unknown! I believe that only one diver before us did the
same thing, Paljetak was his name.
As we fell into water, we dived in. The light
I was wearing because of the submarine
filming, enlightened an amazing sight: beautiful, huge cave with large galleries, copious glittering ornaments, with unusual,
so far unknown creatures of dark depths,
creatures that withdrawn in front of the light, not used to us, and probably scared…
We dived deeper and deeper and submerged for whole 34 meters. We were enticed
by the splendour of dark world, silent secrets of the depth, uniqueness of the cave to which a man is completely strange
being.
38
Veljko Vujanović na Crvenom moru
However, one of our companions, who remained at the edge of the well, had severe attack of claustrophobia and the other
guy had to help him get out of the cave
as soon as possible. We were abandoned
to the mercy of destiny, not knowing
whether it was good or bad!
And, as it usually happens when a man
plays with superior nature, the problems
began: first my air regulator broke, which
created deafening thundering under water (oh, if only you could imagine that sound resonating in the cave!); then I had to
“attach” myself to spare bottle of my colleague, yet, we both had to remain calm and
composed. We made it - destiny was, after
all, on our side, and we dived out – now
the cliffs of the well were above us!
We waited, it seemed like forever, in cold
water (no more than 7 degrees) for our
companion to return and help us out of
the well. When he arrived, he threw us the
rope and with the help of it, we climbed
to be welcomed by dry embrace of earth
and stone.
We were mesmerized by our venture, by
the things we saw, the thing we pulled
out. It is not small thing, is it, to meet a secret of nature, from such a small distance,
and so directly?
39
Klod Tulumdžian u Orahovačkoj ljutoj, 1999. godine
Maldivi: ajkule u pećini
When a man
has no fear
However, at least three years from that passed, and I was lucky enough to go diving
with world recorder in cave diving, Chuck
Stevens. We were diving near peninsula
Yucatan, in Mexico. It was only then that I
truly felt petrified by what I did in Sopot.
Because, that was the first time I saw what
the diver had to have in order to dive in caves! It is unbelievable how lucky we were.
Through our caves
I dived with Stevens and recorded everything. Later, I made short film out of gathered material, called “Sanotas of Chuck
Stevens”. Sanotas are small lakes through
which you enter the submarine world of
Yucatan. Sanotas are even mentioned in
Mayan myths, and really, they are such,
that they seem like they emerged from
some ancient stories, from dreams and
memories, created by mighty gods. Chuck
Stevenson is, also, the champion in cave
diving, because he dived through cave
system 52 km long!
40
My colleague diver, Vladan Dubljević, geologist by vocation, could not resist – he
made an effort to organize diving through
and meeting with caves in Boka bay, not to
search for our sanotas, but to, at least, map
those under-water beauties. Together with
Claude Tulumsian, one of the world greatest cave divers, he dived through Sopot,
Gurdić, Orahovačka cave, Ljuta…and thus
gave us basic knowledge necessary to all
those who dare to dive in. I deliberately say
– who dare, because it is well known that
out of 30 000 divers, only one practices cave diving!
Follower of
Jacques Cousteau
I love submarine caves, although I fell
in love with them only at second sight.
My first love was born when I, as a child,
was watching shows made by legendary
Jacques Cousteau! I do not know whether
it was because of him, or because I had
already had unusual interests, but I was
persistent in touching, feeling and conqu-
ering enormous sea world, at any cost.
Ever since childhood, for many years, I was
driven by that same wish. I was nearly forty
when I went diving in tropical seas: Red
Sea, Indian Ocean, and Caribbean…all
addresses of my dearest memories.
And I always filmed everything! I could not
believe it myself when I developed photographs from Red sea (at that time, I still did
not have digital camera): colours, colours,
magical colours!
In Maldives also, beautiful islands, which
are synonym for heaven, I filmed entire
series of unbelievable sights. I exhibited
all those photographs on submarine photography exhibitions, deeply hoping that
those who see them, will, if not become divers, but at least cherish and love more the
creative power and worth of nature.
I also had a serious situation in Maldives;
and this is how it happened: we formed
diving group with some Italian people.
We embarked the ship that was cruising
among islands of Maldives, and from which
we could go and dive in three times a day.
I regularly took photos or filmed, and sometimes, I would even “arm” myself with
camera that had encasing for submarine
filming. During last diving, mesmerized, I
completely forgot about strong, underwater currents near sandbars of Maldives. One
of those currents is popularly called “the
washing machine”. It is dangerous, because if it catches a diver who separated from
the sandbar, it casts him to the surface with
great velocity, which is life threatening because of barometric traumas. Well, that is
exactly what happened to me! Lelo, Italian
guy from Bari, my partner and I, during this
diving-in, separated ourselves from the
sandbar so we could get a wider look of
that beautiful sight… However, the current
caught us and threw us to the surface!
At first, I felt painful and strong buzz in my
ears. From the depth of 35 m, in only a few
seconds, we found ourselves on surface!
Computer I was wearing on my arm, was
supposed to give all the data about air expenditure, speed of diving out, de-compression pauses… However, it completely
went off, and only “SOS” showed up on the
display.
But, what happened – happened. Now it
was necessary for both of us to get to the
hospital that has barometric chamber as
soon as possible, but – how? We were in
the middle of archipelago! Therefore, I passed my diving bottle to the guys on the
boat, and returned into water. I saw a colleague from the group diving out, so I immediately went towards her. I grabbed her, the
way that every man when in danger would,
and the best I could, with signals, “explained” that I needed to stay under water a
bit longer. She, luckily, immediately realized
everything, and remained with me in depth
of about three to four meters, until we spent
all the air from her bottle. She saved my life,
because she provided me with necessary
de-compression. During that time, Lelo got
pure oxygen on the ship, so both of us got
out of this experience without consequences. I must admit, that even today, I can hear a little buzz in my ears, but that is a small
price for the thrill, joy and excitement I felt
meeting the beauties in Maldives. Yet, it is a
small thing, compared to what could have
happened to me…
Not even such experience could lessen
my passion for diving. Not a bit! Because,
diving is not just a danger. It is enchanting
experience that will make you feel special
when you find yourself eye to eye with
nature, and above all, it is convincing proof that the nature, by creating a man, did
not spend all its creativity… Every divingin flames up the fires of adrenalin, and you
do not know for fear. You simply enjoy in
deep blue space, as if you are flying through the most beautiful worlds form fairytales. I had a great pleasure to convey part of
my experiences and impressions on photographs, and thus shared them with the
people from the “surface”.
On the surface
Completely different thing separated me
from diving – my age! Because diving is
experience that belongs to strong, young
and healthy organism. Nevertheless, my
age is truly, the sea of my beautiful and
special memories.
Diving experiences made me raise my criteria, and now I cannot say for just about
anything to be enjoyable, beautiful or pleasant to the eye. For that reason, I searched
my country to find a place that can measure
up to beauties I saw and met. I have found
such place on the banks of Tara River. That is
my Grab, where I live and work, convinced
that neither of us is left behind: I, with my
memories, compared to other people; Grab
with its beauties, compared to distant places the whole world knows about.
Today, I am happy because my family and
I live in this gorgeous part of the world,
and I am satisfied to know that friends and
guests, who come to visit us, take the most
beautiful memories out of here. Moreover,
when I get regards from them from faraway, expressing gratitude for experiencing such a beauty, I feel as if I deeply plunged again into natural beauty of the world
we all belong to.
My Grab is much closer than Maldives.
Come and visit!
41
Za svaki slucaj
Just in Case
Kupite polisu putnickog zdravstvenog
osiguranja 24 sata dnevno,
365 dana u godini! www.sava.co.me
Buy a Travel Health Insurance policy
24 hours a day, 365 days a year!
85310 Budva, Jadranski put bb
Tel/Fax: +382 (0)33 451 502
e-mail: [email protected]
www.rtours.me
191036 St. Petersburg, Russia 2 Sovetskaya 7,
Buisness center SENATOR, off 003
Tel/Fax: +(812) 332 6813/3326815 e-mail: [email protected]
www.piter.rtours.ru
117292 Moscow, Russia D. Ulianova 16/2 off. 319
Tel/Fax: +(495) 937 5722/125 6927 e-mail: [email protected]
www.rtours.ru
Grčka, Egipat, Kuba, Maldivi...
U jedno možete biti sigurni –
putničko zdravstveno osiguranje učiniće
Vaše putovanje bezbrižnijim i sigurnijim.
Greece, Egypt, Cuba, Maldives...
There is one thing you can be sure about Travel Health Insurance will make your trip
safer and more enjoyable.
Zašto putničko zdravstveno osiguranje? Za svaki slučaj.
Why Travel Health Insurance? Just in case.
U saradnji sa prestižnom međunarodnom asistentskom kućom
Coris Assistance, Sava Montenegro AD Vam pruža usluge
medicinske pomoći i pokriće neophodnih medicinskih troškova za
vrijeme privremenog boravka u inostranstvu.
In cooperation with the prestigious international assistance
company Coris Assistance, Sava Montenegro AD provides
medical assistance services and coverage for necessary medical
expenses during a temporary stay abroad.
Trajanje osiguranja prilagođeno je Vašim potrebama –
može se ugovoriti na period od jednog dana, pa nadalje.
Za sve one koji putuju često, osiguranje se može ugovoriti na
godinu dana sa neograničenim brojem putovanja.
Duration of insurance is tailored to your needs –
it can be contracted for a period of one day, and onwards.
For those who are frequent travelers, insurance can be
arranged for one year with unlimited number of trips.
Neka Vam putničko osiguranje postane navika i prije svakog
polaska na put posjetite web shop Sava Montenegro AD –
i osigurajte se. Za svaki slučaj: www.sava.co.me
Let your travel insurance become a habit and before you travel, visit
web shop Sava Montenegro AD – and get insurance for yourself.
Just in case: www.sava.co.me
Online kupovina osiguranja štedi Vaše vrijeme i novac i
omogućuje jednostavniji pristup uslugama osiguranja!
Buying insurance on line saves your time and money and allows
easy access to insurance services!
Nekoliko trenutaka nakon uspješno obavljene procedure plaćanja,
na Vašu mail adresu dostavićemo polisu putničkog zdravstvenog
osiguranja, što predstavlja čin zaključenja ugovora o osiguranju.
A few moments after a successful payment procedure, Travel Health
Insurance Policy will be delivered to your email address, which
represents conclusion of the insurance contract. Buy a Travel Health
Insurance policy 24 hours a day, 365 days a year!
Srećan i bezbrižan put želi Vam Sava Montenegro AD!
Sava Montenegro AD wish you a pleasant and safe journey!
Sava Montenegro AD
Rimski trg 70, 81000 Podgorica
Tel/fax: +382 20 234 008 · Call center: +382 20 40 30 20
www.sava.co.me , [email protected]
INTERVJU - Dedduh, ½ Who See Klape
Meštri
ceremonija
sami pišu
tekstove…
Najnovije čudo crnogorske muzičke scene je hip hop dvojac WHO SEE KLAPA, odnosno
momci iz Kotora - Dedduh i Noyz. Oni gospodare na živim svirkama, koncertima i na MTV,
ali i u srcima mlađane nam populacije i one koja se s pravom tako osjeća, kojoj je dojadilo
da ih mrzovoljni, matori i isprani kvazi-kulturoljupci uče što valja, a što ne, što može, a što ne
može ni za živu glavu! WHO SEE, dakle, čuva žive mnoge glave
S
lutili smo da su momci izvanredno zauzeti. Jure ih fanovi, hip hop
poštovaoci, zaljubljene đevojke i –
dosadni novinari! I taman kad pomisliš da
„negđe nekom drugom daju intervju” ili da
„sviraju neđe drugo”, ili pomisliš da su baš
kad ti trebaju „trknuli do inostranstva”, oni
su, ustvari, zauzeti – poslom! Ljudi rade!
Znate onaj vic o Lenjinu, kad on povjerljivo i sugestivno savjetuje jednog junošu
zašto treba da ima i ženu i ljubavnicu, pa
kaže: „Najbolje je kad žena misli da si kod
ljubavnice, ljubavnica misli da si kod žene,
a ti – učiš, učiš i samo učiš!” E, tako, otprilike izgleda gotovo svaki dan ovih mladića:
oni rade, rade i rade svirke svuda u regionu! Zato smo uspjeli da razgovaramo sa
jednom polovinom klape – Dedduh je bio
manje uposlen, pa je ugrabio malo vremena i pričao nam u svoje i, pomalo, u Noyzovo ime… Evo šta nam je pričao, dok je
Noyz „rmbačio”:
vlačno?
hip hopa u Crnoj Gori?
DEDDUH: Hip hop kultura je sačinjena od
nekoliko podkultura. Rep je nešto o čemu
sam maštao, vjerujući da ću i ja jednog dana znati to da radim. Znao sam da je potrebna vježba, gomile napisanih i bačenih
(u kontejner, ne pored njega, jer mi je ekološka svijest vazda bila razvijena) tekstova...
Privlačili su me gramofoni, ali sam i te kako bio svjestan da nikad neću imati para
za njih i ploče, za sve to što treba... Brejk
dens je kul, ali bez mene, nemam talenta
za to. Grafite sam propustio jer sam imao
kompleks od drugova koji su išli u likovnu školu. Ja samouk... E, i... Odlučio sam
da svu svoju energiju i kreativnost prenesem hemijskom olovkom od tadašnjih 20
pfeninga u svesku od 50 pfeninga ili malo
skuplju. Kasnije sam dobio i kompjuter od
roditelja pa sam mogao da napravim i muziku (ritam).
DEDDUH: Super je kad znaš da se trud
„isplatio“ i da ljudi znaju da si doprinio cjelokupnoj kulturi, ali je sa druge strane loše
to što je bilo potrebno potrošiti sve te dragocjene godine kako bi se stiglo dovde, tj.
do pozitivne nule. Ne bih baš rekao da smo
mi pioniri hip hopa u Crnoj Gori. Otprilike,
Rambo Amadeus je u vrijeme raspada
komunizma radio nešto tako, pa Koko
Kid i Monteniggers... onda prazno jedno
deset godina pa Who See Klapa – album
„Sviranje kupcu“.
- Kako ste se odlučili za hip hop? Šta je u
toj vrsti muzike za vas bilo posebno pri-
- U međuvremenu smo dobili cente. Kako
se osjećate, s obzirom da ste, ipak, pioniri
44
- Pa, dobro, pionirski nakon desetak godina… Sami pišete tekstove, da li sami i
producirate muziku ili…? Odnosno, kako
ste podijelili dužnosti?
DEDDUH: Pravilo je da svaki meštar ceremonije sebi piše tekst. Od nastanka klape baziramo se i oslanjamo na sopstvene
snage i talenat. Noyz je tekstopisac, grafički dizajner i video producent. Uradio je
mnoge spotove, što nama, što drugima,
video reklame, omote... Pjesme je uglavnom producirao naš prijatelj Rhino (Igor
Burzan, Podgorica, studio 6TH WORLD)
koji nam i gostuje na nekoliko pjesama na
prvom i drugom albumu. Moja uloga je tu
mnogo skromnija; osim što pišem tekstove napravim i po koji instrumental u mojoj
„Verandabeatz“.
- Singl Boka Boka je skrenuo pažnju i
nagovijestio vašu popularnost. Koje još
pjesme smatrate uspješnima, na koje publika najbolje reaguje? I imate li pjesmu,
koja je vama baš – draga i važna, a da je
publika nije do kraja shvatila ili prihvatila? Ustvari, interesuje me, kako se „opipava puls” publike i da li se time uopšte
zamarate?
DEDDUH: Boka, Boka je singl nastao udruženim snagama repera iz Crne Gore. Ova
rečenica je - „niđe veze“ ali...
DJ Mono (Podgorica) i Rhino autori su hip
hop radio showa „The Coming“ koji se čuje svakog četvrtka u 21 sat sa talasa radija
Antena M. Ta legendarna i za nas veoma
važna emisija, počela se emitovati još 1998.
a traje i dalje i nikad neće stati. The Coming
crew i Klapa Who See počeli su razvijati „ve-
like planove“. Kasnije je to išlo drugačijim
tokom, ali je iza nas ostao rezultat saradnje
- singl Boka, Boka. Inače, nikad se nismo
priklanjali nečemu zarad nečega. Klapin
rep je iskren, originalan i predstavlja nas i
našu rodnu Boku, ljude i događaje u njoj (i
još masu sitnica) tako da je to naša odrednica, a ne trend i potrebe slušalaca...
iako smo se naslušali raznih priča i teorija. I te kako imamo povjerenja u sve ljude
koji su u publici dok mi bucamo tekstove.
Nedavno smo svirali u Splitu gdje se samo
mogu potvrditi prethodne rečenice.
- Crna Gora ima malo tržište. Zato, pretpostavljam, nije lako baviti se ovdje hip
hopom. No, zato ste sarađivali sa brojnim
muzičarima iz regiona. Kakva vas iskustva vežu za beogradske repere?
DEDDUH: Teško je povući paralelu između
„Sviranja kupcu“ i „Krša i drače“. Ovaj drugi
je svakako kvalitetniji iz više uglova... Za prvi album smo imali manje iskustva, znanja,
poznanstava... Sad je to sve na nekom „nivou“ pa je i lakše i lagodnije raditi. Nadam
se da smo ostvarili očekivanja, to bi mi bilo
drago, ipak sve pjesme su napravljene iz
našeg sopstvenog ugla, bez mogućnosti
uticaja spoljašnih faktora tipa slušaoci, fanovi, političke stranke, sponzori... Who See
Klapa je oba albuma napravila za te iste
ljude, ali iz nas, a ne iz očekivanja nekog
drugog.
DEDDUH: Godine marljivog rada su dokaz
koliko je teško izbiti na površinu iz ovako
male zemlje. Opet, ljude koje smo ugostili
na drugom albumu, nismo zvali iz komercijalnih, nego iz razloga potrebe same pjesme. Isto se odnosi i na prvi album.
- Prvi, sa ovih prostora, nastupali ste i u
Dubrovniku?
DEDDUH: Uvijek smo težili miru i prijateljstvu, pa je jedno od osnovnih pravila Klape
da nema politički angažovanih tekstova.
Ta naša harizma osjetila se i u Dubrovniku
gdje smo svirali u februaru 2002. godine
- Napravite paralelu između vaša dva albuma?
- Nedjeljama ste bili prvi na MTV top listi.
To je, zaista, sjajno. Kako je došlo do te
saradnje i koliko vam, u praktičnom smislu, i u smislu podstreka, to znači?
DEDDUH: Bili smo prvi na, vjerovatno, naj45
RESIDO MONTENEGRO
www.c21residomontenegro.com
www.century21tivat.com
Ref. ID 796
značajnijoj top listi u regionu. To je ogromna satisfakcija. Nasmije nam se brk kad
to neko pomene, da se ne lažemo. Takve
stvari pomažu u daljem poslovanju i ljudi
te ozbiljnije shvataju. Naravno, od toga ti
samo bolje može biti. Sad je velika obaveza pred nama jer je nivo kvaliteta porastao
(generalno u jugoslovenskoj muzici), a mi
se moramo održati u svemu tome. Kao i
uvjek, vrijedno radimo.
- Vrlo maštovit, neočekivano originalan
(za nas od naših u Crnoj Gori) spot za pjesmu Raegeton Montenegro, uspješna je
demonstracija i vašeg umijeća i umijeća
Zorana Markovića Zonja. Kako je bilo raditi sa njim?
DEDDUH: Dobar, dobar... Zonjo je velemajstor u idejama i razmišljanu u pravcu dobrog
proizvoda. Iskreno ga preporučujem svima
koji žele da imaju dobar spot, a naročito kad
je u kombinaciji sa Noyzovom vještinom i
talentom. Njih dvojica su tandem iz snova.
Sa njim je vrlo lako rabotati, jednostavan je
46
recept. Samo slušaj što Zonjo priča i biće ti
drago na kraju, jer su to sve dobronamjerni, iskreni i skoro roditeljski savjeti. Dobar je
momak, malo je previsok za svoje godine i
obim kao i poprečni presjek. (smijeh)
- Saradnja sa Rambom?
DEDDUH: Ha, ha... Ima takvih situacija i zabavno je. Gospođe iz banke bacaju freestyle kad me vide... Te situacije su mi vrh!
Mnogo češće doživljavam pitanje na sred
ulice: „Koliko ste para uzeli?“ i to je strašno.
Lično, prijaju mi klinci koji nas hvale, a njihovi roditelji odobravaju i još dodaju koju
riječ. To je nagrada.
DEDDUH: Logična.
- Sada ste, već, muzički ponos nacije ili
bar ove moderne, urbane mladosti. Kako
se nosite sa tom stečenom slavom i popularnošću?
DEDDUH: Vrlo lako. Ne interesuju nas nikakve titule. Sa svim tim ljudima koji nas gledaju kao da smo nešto iznad njih spremni
smo da popijemo pivo. Sve isto kao prije.
- Šta ste dobili? Nije, valjda, i kod vas kao
u onoj Rambovoj pjesmi: „Otkako sam
došao do slave i para, puštaju me preko
reda da kupim cigara…”
- A sad malo o planovima? Radite li već
nešto novo?
DEDDUH: Planovi su jasni i logični. Idemo
dalje u svom stilu (ne mislim na stil da svake pete godine snimimo album). Poenta je
da sa „Kršom i dračom“ napravimo dobre
svirke, pa da se radi neki spot, a zatim neki
singl i album. Ipak o tom potom.
Za sada još samo želim da se zahvalim svima vama koji slušate naše rime. Moje mišljenje je da ste vi, ako ne najbrojnija, ono
najbolja publika! Nadam se da ćete podržati i nove rep projekte iz Crne Gore koji se
spremaju. Svi oni dolaze sa velikom energijom...
Ref. ID 654
Ref. ID 785
Ref. ID 725
Ref. ID 726
Your preferred and world’s largest
real estate network partner
is now in Montenegro!
Ваш привилегированный и крупнейший в мире
сетевой партнер по торговле недвижимостью
теперь и в Черногории!
Waterfront Villas, lands - Stone houses
Urbanized lands - Investment opportunities
New developments
Apartments with stunning views...
Расположенные на берегу виллы, земельные
участки - Каменные дома
Участки, включенные в городскую зону
Возможности инвестирования
Новые застройки
Апартаменты с прекрасными видами...
Visit us in Tivat!
Посетите нас в Тивате!
Century21 Resido Montenegro
Sales – Rentals – Consulting
Property administration & management
Address: Trg Kulture 1, Pine
85320 Tivat center - Montenegro
Email: [email protected]
Phone: +382 32 671 327 (office)
Mobile: +382 69 146 266
+382 69 146 171 (English, Francais, Srpski)
Телефон: +382 69 179 901 (Crnogorski, Ruski)
INTERVIEW – Dedduh, a half of Who See Band
Masters of
ceremonies
write their
own texts…
The latest hype of Montenegrin music scene is hip-hop duo WHO SEE BAND, or guys from
Kotor – Dedduh and Noyz. They are sovereigns of live performances, concerts and MTV, but
also of hearts of our young population, and of those who rightfully feel young, tired of being
taught by sulky, old and washed-out quasi-culture lovers what is right, and what is not, what
can and cannot be done, not even in a million years! Thus, WHO SEE keeps many spirits alive.
W
e suspected that the boys are
terribly busy. Chased by fans,
hip-hop lovers, in loved girls
and – boring journalists! Moreover, just
when you think that “they must be giving
an interview to someone else some place
else” or that “they are playing somewhere
else”, or that “they went abroad” just when
you need them, they are, actually, busy
with – working! People work! You know
the joke about Lenin, when he, confidentially and suggestively, gives advice to a
young man why he should have both wife
and mistress, and says:“ The best thing is
when your wife thinks you are at mistress’s,
mistress thinks you are with your wife, and
you, as a matter of fact – learn, learn and
constantly learn!” Well, that’s how almost
every single day of these young boys looks like: they work, work and work, and
perform all over the region! That is the reason we managed to talk to only one half
of the band – Dedduh was little less busy,
so he stole some time and talked to us, on
his behalf, and on Noyz’s… Here’s what he
48
told us, while Noyz was “slaving at work”:
- Why did you choose hip-hop particularly? What was so attractive in that music genre for you?
DEDDUH: Hip-hop culture consists of several sub-cultures. Rap is something I dreamed of, believing that someday I could do
that. I knew that it took practice, piles of
written and than cast away texts (cast to
the bin, of course, not next to the bin, since my ecological consciousness has always
been well developed)…Gramophones
attracted me, but I was well aware that I
will never have enough money for them
and the records, for all that is necessary…
Break dance is cool, but, I swear you, I don’t
have talent for it. I missed graffiti because
I developed complex from friends who
attended art school…And I was self-educated… So… I decided to transfer all my
energy and creativity, using pen that cost
20 pfennig ( at that time, currency used in
Montenegro) into a notebook that cost 50
pfennig, or a bit more. Later, my parents
bought me a computer, so I could make
music (rhythm).
- We got cents in the meantime. How do
you feel now, being the pioneers of hiphop in Montenegro?
DEDDUH: It feels great to know that all the
hard work “paid off”, and that people know
that you contributed to culture in general,
however, on the other hand, the bad thing
is that we needed to spend all those precious years to make it to here, or to “positive zero”. I wouldn’t exactly say that we are
the pioneers of hip-hop in Montenegro.
When communism was falling into pieces,
Rambo Amadeus did something like that,
as well as Koko Kid and Monteniggers…
then ten years of blank space, and here we
come, Who See Band and album “Playing
for the Buyer”.
- Well, ok, pioneers after ten years… You
write your own texts, but do you produ-
ce music by yourself, or…? Or, to rephrase, how did you divide your duties?
DEDDUH: By the rule, every master of the
ceremony writes his own text. Since the
beginning of our work, we rely on our
own strengths and talent. Noyz is text
writer, graphic designer and video producer. He made many spots, for us and
for others, video commercials, covers…
Songs are mainly produced by our friend
Rhino (Igor Burzan, Podgorica, studio 6th
WORLD) who is our guest on several songs on first and second albums. My role is
much smaller; besides writing texts, I make
a few instrumentals here and there, in my
“Verandabeatz”.
- Single Boka Boka drew public attention, and announced your popularity.
Which other songs you consider successful, to which songs the audience reacted best? And, do you have a song that
is special and dear to you, but the audience did not understand nor fully accept
it? Actually, I want to know, in what way
you “feel the pulse” of public, and do you
bother with it at all?
DEDDUH: Boka Boka is single made
by joint forces of rappers from entire
Montenegro. This sentence actually means
nothing, however…
DJ Mono (Podgorica) and Rhino are
the authors of hip-hop radio show “The
Coming”, broadcasted every Thursday at
9.00 p.m. from radio Antena M. That legendary, and for us very important show, started broadcasting in 1998, and it still lasts,
and will never stop. The Coming Crew and
Who See Band began making “big plans”.
Later, we all took different paths, but we
left behind the result of that cooperation
– single Boka Boka. Also, we have never
been part of anything in order to gain something. Rap that Band makes is truthful,
original and represents us and our home
Boka, people and events from Boka (and
so much more), so that could be something that defines us, and not the trend, or
needs of the audience…
- Montenegrin market is small. Therefore,
I guess, it is not easy to practice hip-hop
here. However, you cooperated with numerous musicians from the region. What
experiences do you have with rappers
from Belgrade?
DEDDUH: Years of diligent work show how
hard it is to come to surface coming from
such a small country. Then again, we did
not call the people who were our guests
on our second album, out of commercial
reasons, but because our songs needed
something like that. The same can be
applied for our first album.
- You were the first from this region, who
played in Dubrovnik?
DEDDUH: We have always aimed towards
peace and friendship, so one of basic rules
of our band is that we don’t have politically
engaged texts. The charisma we possess
could be felt in Dubrovnik, where we performed in February in 2002, although we
listened to all kinds of stories and theories
before going there. We honestly believe in
every member of our audience, as long as
we pop the texts out. We recently played
in Split, and that experience can confirm
my previous sentences.
- Can you compare your first and second
album?
DEDDUH: It is difficult to compare “Playing
for the Buyer” (“Sviranje kupcu”) and “Rock
and Thorn” (“Krš i drača”). The second one is
surely better from many points of view…
We had less experience, less knowledge,
less connections when working on first album… Now we rose all on a kind of higher
level, so it is easier to work. I hope we fulfilled the expectations, I would be glad if
we did; however, all our songs are created
from our own point of view, without possibility for outer influences, such as listeners,
fans, political parties, sponsors… Who See
Band made both albums for the same people, but they came from us, not from someone else’s expectations.
49
A Daimler Brand
Novi član vaše porodice.
Nova B-Klasa.
Savr[en drug na putu za va[e velike i male saputnike sada dolazi sa COLLISION
PREVENTION ASSIST-om - bezbjedonosnom inovacijom koja prepoznaje potencijalno
opasne situacije i poma/e voza;u prilikom ko;enja. Uz mogu'nost izbora izme]u
;etiri razli;ita dizajna unutra[njosti, omogu'ava vam da uvjek stignete do va[eg
odredi[ta bezbjedno i sa stilom.
- You held first place on MTV top list for
weeks, which is truly great success. How
did you start that cooperation, and how
much does that cooperation mean to
you in practical and motivational sense?
DEDDUH: We were first on, probably, most
important top list in region. That is such
enormous satisfaction. We can’t help smiling when someone mentions that, to tell
you the truth. Such accomplishments help
you in your further work, and people take you more seriously. Of course, you can
only benefit from that. Now we have big
responsibility, because the level of quality
is higher (in general in entire Yugoslavian
music), and we have to keep up in those
circumstances. As always, we work hard.
- Very creative, unexpectedly original
(for us, among other Montenegrin spots)
spot for the song Raegeton Montenegro,
is successful demonstration of both
yours and skill of Zoran Marković Zonjo.
What was it like to work with him?
DEDDUH: Well, well… Zonjo is grand master in ideas and thinking aimed towards
good product. I sincerely recommend him
to all those who want to make good spot,
50
especially when joined with skill and talent of Noyz. Two of them are dream team.
Zonjo is very easy to work with. The recipe
is simple. Just listen what Zonjo says and in
the end you will be glad you did, because
all he is saying is well-meant, honest, almost parental advice. He is a good fellow,
although a bit tall for his age, stature and
transverse cut. (laughter)
- Cooperation with Rambo Amadeus?
DEDDUH: Logical.
- Being the music pride of the nation, or
at least, of its modern and young part,
how do you cope with fame and popularity?
DEDDUH: Easily. We are not interested in
any titles. We are ready to have a beer with
all those people who observe us as someone who is above them. In reality, nothing
changed.
- What did you gain? Do not tell me that
all the benefits are like in Rambo’s song:
“Since I became famous, people let me
skip the line to buy cigarettes…”
DEDDUH: Ha, ha… We actually do have
such situations, and it is amusing. Ladies
from bank give me freestyle when they see
me… Such situations are priceless! More
often, people ask me in the street:“ How
much money did you get?” and that question annoys me. Personally, I like when
kids praise us, and their parents approve,
and even add a few words themselves.
That is the prize.
- Now, tell me something about your
plans? Do you work on something new?
DEDDUH: Our plans are clear and logical.
We keep on in our style (by that, I don’t
mean style to publish new album every
fifth year). The point is to have some good performances with “Rock and Thorn”, to
make a spot, then a single and album. We
will cross that bridge when we get to it.
For now, I just want to thank all of you
who listen to our rhymes. In my opinion,
you may not be the largest audience, but
you are definitely the best! I hope that you
will also support other rap projects from
Montenegro that are now being prepared.
They are all coming with great energy…
Ljetopis Automotive d.o.o., Podgorica, Kralja Nikole 357, tel> 020\648 841
MAESTRAL RESORT & CASINO
Relax, play and
entertainment
In romantic rocky bay of the Montenegrin Riviera, above
the charming send beach, lays hotel “Maestral. The name
has been taken from the fresh aromatic wind that has
been companion of that picturesque rocky coast through
the summer months. It has been splashed by the warm
sea of the south Adriatic, and leans on the mountain
background, which through the wormiest days brings to
the sunny coast the freshness of the spring.
Hotel offers the high quality of 418 beds in 196 rooms and
18 apartments. All rooms have air condition, safe
strongboxes, mini-bars, telephone, TV (possibility of Pay
TV). Most of the rooms have the beautiful view on the sea
and Internet access.
MAESTRAL RESORT & CASINO
Odmor, igra i zabava
U romantiènom stjenovitom zalivu crnogorskog primorja,
iznad ljupke pješèane plaže, nalazi se potpuno obnovljeni
hotel “Maestral". Ime nosi po svježem aromatiènom vjetru
koji je tokom ljetnih mjeseci stalni pratilac te slikovite
stjenovite obale. Zapljuskuje ga toplo more južnog
Jadrana, a naslanja se na brdovito zaleðe koje i u
najtoplijim mjesecima donosi svježinu proljeæa.
Hotel raspolaže sa 418 ležaja u 196 sobi i 18 apartmana
najviše kategorije. Sve sobe su klimatizovane i imaju sef,
mini-bar, telefon, televizor (moguænost Pay TV). Veæina
ima predivan pogled na more i pristup Internetu.
Opuštanje i rekreacija
"Maestral" vodi brigu i o trenucima potpunog opuštanja.
Gosti hotela mogu da iskoriste prednosti kompletne
wellness ponude na jednom mjestu.
Razni bazeni i sauna centar sa finskom i infracrvenom
saunom i turskim i rimskim kupatilom, kozmetièki salon,
specijalni tretmani za podmlaðivanje, estetska
stomatološka ordinacija, kupke sa masažom, a prije svega
vrhunska udobnost, u potpunosti æe vas oèarati. U centru
tradicionalne tajlandske masaže "Sa Wann" moæi æete da
birate najrazlièitije vrste masaža.
Igra i zabava
Bez prave, uzbudljive zabave nema ni odmora. Potražiæete
je u "Maestralovoj" igraènici koja treperi svjetlima 130
automata za igru, 3 elektronska ruleta, stolova za amerièki
rulet, midi punto banco, blek-džek, HIT-ov progresivni draw
poker i Texas Hold’em Poker. Na pozornici za priredbe
možete vidjeti vrhunske koncerte, kabare i druge zabavne
programe. Od 2010. godine obogatili smo našu ponudu
redovnim organizovanjem poker turnira.
Relaxing and recreation
“Maestral” takes care about the moments of total relaxing.
Guests of the hotel can use the advantages of the full
wellness offer at one place. Different types of pools and
sauna center with the Finland and infrared saunas,
Roman and Turkish bathroom, cosmetic salon, medical
and dentist center, bath massages, and more than
anything, there is a great comfort that will bewitch you
completely. In the gorgeous center of the traditional
Thailand massage “Sa Wann”, we will pamper you with
the most different types of massages.
Play and entertainment
Without the real and exited fun, there is not a real
vacation. You can find it in the “Maestral’s” playground
that shines with the lights of the 130 slot machines, 3
electric roulettes, as well as American Rulette, Black Jack,
Texas Hold’em Poker, Midi Punto Banco and HIT Progressive Draw Poker tables. On the auditorium of spectacles
“Theatre” you can see grand concerts, cabarets as well as many other entertainment programs. From 2010 we enhanced
our entertainment offer through regular organization of poker tournaments.
MAESTRAL
Pržno, 85315 Sveti Stefan
Montenegro
t +382 33 410 108, 410 109
[email protected]
www.maestral.info
= Mali oglasi =
= jul-septembar, 2012. godine = broj 2
Podgoričko
vrelo ljeto
HIP HOP
Asfaltiranje 2012
Muzički projekat Asfaltiranje, koji je posvećen promociji hip hop žanra, nastao je prošle
godine, pod kreativnim vođstvom MC Marka i NVO Metafora. Cilj festivala je okupiti
domaće i regionalne muzičke snage hip hop scene, kako bi se i kod nas ojačao autoritet
i značaj koji hip hop izraz posjeduje. Asfaltiranje 2012. najavilo je vrelo, zaista vrelo
podgoričko muzičko ljeto
P
rošlogodišnji pilot projekat - festival Asfaltiranje - predstavio se kao
ozbiljan muzički hepening koji, u
srcu glavnog grada, okuplja stotine mla-
dih ljudi, čija strast je muzika u rep izrazu.
Ove godine, Asfaltiranje je ozvaničilo start
vrelog ljeta, poklapajući se i sa njegovim
kalendarskim početkom. Naime, 22. i 23.
juna, na terasi Kulturno informativnog centra „Budo Tomović”, niz nastupa imali su crnogorski muzičari, ali i brojni gosti iz Srbije
i Hrvatske.
Prve večeri nastupio je domaćin MC Marko
sa svojim bendom, zatim splitsko-zagrebački hip hop sastav Dječaci i, naravno,
Edo Maajka sa Frenkijem i DJ Soulom.
Sljedećeg dana, podgorička publika je repovala uz Barsku 100-ku, Rhina & Labiju,
Who See klapu i Bad Copy, koji su došli u
punom sastavu.
Poseban
segment
ovogodišnjeg
Asfaltiranja su grafiti, koje su uživo i na licu mjesta, za vrijeme svirke radili Junk (Bg)
i K-13 (Pg). Njihov doprinos je tim veći što
su uoči samog festivala uradili memorijalni mural sa likom Nebojše Saveljića Neba,
nezaboravnog člana grupe Monteniggers.
Nebov lik je, na radost svih koji i sada cijene
njegov rad, bio dio scenografije festivala, i
na taj način učinjen je iskorak u formiranju
i vizuelnog identiteta jednog dobrog, pravog Asfaltiranja!
Prepoznavši značaj Asfaltiranja za kulturnu
ponudu Glavnog grada, podršku festivalu
su dale uspješne kompanije, kao Telekom,
i javne institucuje.
MC Marko, povodom Asfaltiranja kaže:
„Mi imamo misiju! A naša misija je da
Asfaltiranje ne bude samo muzička zabava, već i promocija Podgorice kao kulturne
destinacije, zatim uključivanje mladih u
moderne muzičke trendove, kao i afirmacija kreativnog i kulturnog trenda, koji je,
zapravo, zahvatio Crnu Goru, i koji treba
održavati, potkrepljivati, čuvati i razvijati…”
Očigledno da su MC Marko i NVO Metafora
na dobrom, i asfaltiranom, putu! Tome
svjedoče zaista impresivna imena hip hop
scene, koja su svoja muzička umijeća, ali i
nade, stavove, težnje, misli… tj. muzičku filozofiju, podijelila sa ovdašnjom publikom:
Edo Maajka, koji uspješno promoviše album Štrajk Mozga, Who See klapa, koja je
sa pjesmom Reggaeton Montenegro šest
nedjelja prva na MTV top listi Domaćica,
a aktuelni album Krš i Drača uspješno
promovišu koncertima u Crnoj Gori i regionu; veliki povratak Bad Copy i to baš u
Podgorici; Barska 100ka, tačnije Joe Shua
Kiz sa aktuelnim albumom... Saznali smo
i da MC Marko priprema četvrti studijski album (evo par naslova: Osekni se ft.
Sky Wikluh i Ajs Nigrutin i Bugi Vugi ft. Ajs
Nigrutin i Boršč). Igor Burzan - Rhino je
nastupio sa Labiom i na Asfaltiranju izveo
58
nekoliko numera koje će se naći na njihovom prvijencu… Premijerno u Crnoj Gori,
nastupili su Dječaci (Vojko Vrućina, Ivo Sivo
i Zondo), rep grupa iz Splita, koji su svojim
spotovima na You Tube stekli kultni status
i privukli stotine hiljada gledalaca (pjema
Narodna - 1.300.000 gledanja!). Specifični
su po tome što vrlo jasno, otvoreno i, ko
razumije kako treba, duhovito progovaraju
o hrvatskoj realnosti, a pri tome ne gube
svoju urođenu pozitivnu notu, pa i najteže
situacije opisuju sa šarmantnom lakoćom i
originalnom prirodnošću…
Što je Asfaltiranje učinilo uspješnim? MC
Marko, domaćinski, objašnjava: „Projekat
Asfaltiranje od starta koristi preciznu metodologiju razvoja, jasno definisanu ideologiju i dijapazon različitih aktivnosti, koje će
aktivno uticati na javnu sferu Crne Gore. To
je učinilo da Asfaltiranje već postaje jedan
od najbrže rastućih kulturnih projekata u
regionu!”
Uživajte u Podgorici, ASFALTIRANO je!
59
Hot summer in Podgorica
Hip-hop – Paving 2012
Music project “Paving”, dedicated to promotion of hip-hop genre, designed last year, under
creative leadership of MC Marko and NGO Metaphor. The main objective of the festival is
to gather local and regional music forces of the hip-hop scene, in order to empower the authority and importance of hip-hop expression in our region. “Paving 2012,” announced hot,
truly hot music summer in Podgorica.
L
ast year’s pilot project – festival
“Paving” – was presented as a serious music happening which, at
the very core of the capital city, gathered
hundreds of young people, whose passion is music, expressed through hip-hop.
This year, “Paving”, coinciding with the calendar beginning of the season, opened
the hot summer. On 22nd and 23 June, on
the terrace of Cultural informational center
“Budo Tomović”, several Montenegrin musicians, together with numerous guests from
60
Serbia and Croatia, presented their work.
On the first night, the host MC Marko performed with his band, followed by hip-hop
crew “Dječaci” (“The Boys”) from Split and
Zagreb, and of course, Edo Maajka with
Franky and DJ Soul. The next day, the audience in Podgorica rapped along with
band 100 from Bar, Rhino and Labija, “Who
See” band and “Bad Copy”, who came in full
composition.
Special segment of this year’s “Paving” are
graffiti, drawn by Junk (from Belgrade) and
K-13 (from Podgorica) alive and on the
spot, during the concert. Their contribution is even greater, because, on the eve
of the festival, they made memorial mural
with the face of Nebojša Saveljić Nebo,
the unforgettable member of the group
“Monteniggers”. Nebo’s face was part of
the festival scenery, which made all his
fans happy, and in that way, they made a
progress in creation of visual identity of a
good and real Paving!
Some successful companies, such as
Crnogorski Telekom, as well as public institutions, who recognized the importance
of “Paving” for the cultural offer of the city,
supported the festival.
On “Paving” MC Marko explained: “We
are on a mission! And the mission is to
establish “Paving” not only as an entertaining music event, but also to promote
Podgorica as cultural destination, to include young people in modern music trend,
and affirm creative and cultural trend,
which has already, to say the truth, “contaminated” the entire Montenegro, and as
such, should be maintained, nurtured and
developed…”
It is more than obvious that MC Marko
and NGO Metaphor are on good and paved way! Some truly impressive names of
the hip-hop scene, who shared their music knowledge, as well as hopes, attitudes,
aims and thoughts with local audience,
can witness that.
Edo Maajka, who is successfully promoting
his album “The Brain on Strike”, band “Who
See”, whose song Reggaeton Montenegro
held first place on MTV top list Homemade for six weeks, and whose current
album “Rock and Thorn” (“Krš i Drača”)
is successfully promoted in concerts in
Montenegro and region; great comeback
of the band “Bad Copy“, which will specially take place in Podgorica; band 100
from Bar, precisely, Joe Shua Kiz with their
latest album…are just some of the names
we can expect this year. We have also found out that MC Marko prepares fourth
studio album (some of the titles from it
are: Blow Your Nose ft. Sky Wikluh and Ice
Nigrutin, and Buggy Vugi ft. Ice Nigrutin
and Boršč). Igor Burzan – Rhino, with Labia,
presented several tracks that will appear
on their first album… For the first time in
Montenegro, rap group from Split, which
gained the cult status with their plays on
You Tube and attracted hundreds of thousands of viewers (song “Narodna” had
1.300.000 watches!) called “Dječaci” (“The
Boys” - Vojko Vrućina, Ivo Sivo and Zondo),
presented themselves. They are specific
because they very clearly, openly, and - for
those who understand correctly – wittily,
talk about Croatian reality, however, never losing their innate positive note, and
describe even the most difficult situations
with easiness and authenticity…
What made “Paving” so successful? MC
Marko explains: “The project “Paving” from
the very beginning uses precise methodology of development, clearly defined ideology and the wide range of different activities, which will actively affect the public
sphere in Montenegro. All of that made
“Paving” one of the fastest growing cultural
projects in region!”
Enjoy in Podgorica, it is all PAVED!
61
www.prvabankacg.com • [email protected]
Centrala: Bulevar Svetog Petra Cetinjskog 141
Tel: +382 20 409 174 • Fax: +382 20 409 124
FESTIVALSKO VRELO LJETO
Hot festival summer
pozornica do
pozornice!
one stage after
another!
Ljeto u Crnoj Gori? To je: festivalsko
raspoloženje, mnogo muzike i igre, teatarske
scene na pjacetama i ulicama starih, naših
gradova, na obali i uz glas mora, pod plavim
nebom ili u sjaju vrelih ljetnjih noći…
Summer in Montenegro? It is: festive mood,
plenty of music and dance, theatrical stages
on squares and streets of our old towns, on
coast, with the voice of the sea, under the
blue sky, or in the shine of hot nights…
Umjetnici i pozorišta iz Crne Gore, umjetnici i pozorišta iz regiona i Evrope,
igraju, pjevaju, sviraju i plešu i ovog ljeta za vas! Predstavljamo vam one
koji će ovog puta biti u Baru, Budvi, Tivtu i Kotoru: i Liliputanci i Guliver, i
labudi sa jezera, i Penelopa i Njegoš i…
68
Artists and theatres from Montenegro, region and Europe, act,
sing, play and dance for you this summer! We present you those who will, this time, be guests in Bar, Budva, Tivat and Kotor:
both Lilliputians and Gulliver, swans from the lake, Penelope and
Njegoš, and…
69
Festivalsko vrelo ljeto – Barski ljetopis
More,
sunce,
pozorište,
note…
Tekst: Ćazim Nikezić
Festival Barski ljetopis ove godine slavi svoj jubilej - 25 godina postojanja! Na ponos
Barana, postao je manifestacija sa visoko profesionalnom koncepcijom, o čemu svjedoči sve
veći broj učesnika i sve probirljivija i zahtjevnija publika. To je znak da je Festival podigao
standarde!
F
estival Barski ljetopis svojim muzičkim, likovnim, filmskim, književnim
i pozorišnim programom, i ovog
ljeta obećava pravu mediteransku feštu.
Održao se svih ovih godina jer je uvijek uspijevao da okupi poznate i priznate umjetnike iz regiona i šire.
Muzički program odavno je zaštitni
znak Festivala, a ove godine nam gostuju: Vladimir Domazetović (klavir), Veljko
Klenkovski (klarinet), Marko Simović (violina), Jovan Kolundžija (violina), Aleksandra
Vojvodić (sopran)…
Što se Likovnog programa tiče, na uvid ljubiteljima boja i formi, igre sjenki i svjetla,
na otvaranju biće izloženi radovi barskih
umjetnika, nastavićemo izložbom fotografija umjetnika iz Francuske, a očekuju nas i
neka posebna likovna iznenađenja.
U Književnom programu, slavu lijepe riječi i stiha, pronijeće u prvom redu pisci
iz regiona, među kojima su: Luko Paljetak
(Dubrovnik), Vladimir Martinovski (Skoplje),
Dijana Matković (Ljubljana) i još desetak
pjesnika i prozaista iz Crne Gore.
bude interesantan, jer smo u goste pozvali reprezentativna pozorišta i predstave.
Ugostićemo domaće, ali i teatre iz regiona:
Narodno pozorište Niš sa dvije predstave,
Teatar Rugantino iz Zagreba, Knjaževskosrpski teatar iz Kragujevca, Gradsko pozorište iz Podgorice…
Filmski program daje poseban šarm multimedijalnosti barskog Festivala. Ovog ljeta
smo odlučili da omogućimo našoj publici
mogućnost da, ovdje u Baru, vidi neke od
najboljih regionalnih filmskih ostvarenja u
protekloj godini.
Poseban segment Festivala biće modna
revija Fashion show, jer želimo zadovoljiti
i interesovanje poklonika mode, jer - ljeto
je, zar ne!?
Barski ljetopis postaje sve selektivniji, rafiniraniji i stremi sve boljim i kvalitetenijim
programima. Cilj je da i Festival i njegovi
učesnici uzajamno djeluju tako da podižu
ugled jedni drugima, a na radost i zadovoljstvo publike.
Barska rivijera ima svoje goste. Mirisi juga,
lijepe plaže, gostoprimstvo… jesu zaštitni
znak i ovog dijela Crnogorskog primorja.
Barski ljetopis će, od 15. jula do 24. avgusta,
učiniti sve to ljepšim, trajnijim i značajnijim.
Dobro došli u Bar!
Potrudili smo se i da Pozorišni program
72
73
Hot festival summer
The sea,
the sun,
theatre,
music notes…
By: Ćazim Nikezić
Festival Bar Chronicles this year celebrates its jubilee – 25 years of existence! Making citizens of Bar very proud, the Festival has become manifestation with highly professional
concept, and growing number of participants as well as more and more demanding public,
witness that. It is the sign that the Festival has raised its standards!
F
estival Bar Chronicles, with its music, art, film, literary and theatrical
programs, this summer promises
true Mediterranean feast. The Festival endured the trial of years, because it has
always managed to gather well-known
and approved artists from region and
abroad.
Music program has been festival’s trademark for a long time, and this year we
will enjoy in performances of: Vladimir
Domazetović (piano), Marko Simović (violin), Jovan Kolundžija (violin), Aleksandra
Vojvodić (soprano)…
When art program is concerned, for all lo-
74
vers of colours and shapes, light and shadow, we will exhibit works of artists from
Bar, then proceed with exhibition of photography by artists from France, and also,
some special surprises are awaiting.
hosts of local, as well as of regional theatres: National Theatre Niš, with two plays,
Theatre Rugantino from Zagreb, PrincelySerbian Theatre from Kragujevac, City
Theatre from Podgorica…
In Literary program, primarily regional authors will celebrate the fame of beautiful
word and verse, to mention a few: Luko
Paljetak (Dubrovnik), Vladimir Martinovski
(Skoplje), Dijana Matković (Ljubljana), together with around ten more poets and
writers from Montenegro.
Film program gives special charm to multimedia of Bar Festival. This summer, we
decided to give our public here, in Bar, an
opportunity to watch some of the best regional film works from last year.
We made an effort to make Theatrical program interesting, and thus invited representative theatres and plays. We will be
The special segment of the Festival will be
Fashion show, because we wish to satisfy
even the fashion lovers. It is summer – isn’t
it?!
The Festival Bar Chronicles becomes more and more selective, refined and aims
towards better and more quality programs.
The objective is, of both the Festival, and
of its participants, to work mutually in order to make each other more respectable,
which will be awaited with approval and
satisfaction of public.
Riviera Bar has its own guests. Smells of the
south, beautiful beaches, hospitality…are
the trademark of this part of Montenegrin
coast. Bar Chronicles, starting on July 15 to
August 24, will make it all even more beautiful, longer lasting and of higher importance.
Welcome to Bar!
75
Kvalitet
za Evropu
Company
i trio Tritonus (pijanista Bojan Martinović,
violinista Miran Begić i čelista Igor Perazić)
Festivalsko vrelo ljeto – Budva grad Teatar
Festivalski gosti Žana Lekić i Aleksej
Molčanov (profesori cetinjske Akademije)
nastupiće prilikom otvaranja studentske
izložbe, svojih komšija likovnjaka sa Cetinja.
Čovjek koji
se smije je
čovjek koji
se ne boji
Citat u naslovu preuzet je iz
Krčmarice Mirandoline, Karla
Goldonija, koja je uz Ribarske
svađe i Slugu dvaju gospodara,
na ovogodišnjem programu
festivala.
Ovaj moto reprezentuje poetiku samog
Goldonija, koji psihološkim produbljivanjem karaktera komedije dell’arte, komediju
približava svakodnevnom i realnom. Sa druge strane, ambivalentnost pozorišnog izraza, kao i života samog, stalna potreba za intelektualnom provokacijom i samopreispitivanjem, za autoironijom koja otvara nove
mogućnosti, samo su neke od asocijativnih
sugestija da je umjetnost upravo neophodni mentalni ventil za prevazilaženje ograničenja stvarnosti. A prevazilaženje ograničenja stvarnosti je vizija samog festivala.
78
Likovni program:
sve boje žute
i crne
I ovogodišnji likovni program je raznovstan
i bogat, a nastaje iz igre bojama Festivala –
Sve boje žutog i crnog.
Dramski program
zalište, podgoričko Crnogorsko narodno i
novosadsko Srpsko narodno pozorište.
Kazablanke) u režiji Marka Manojlovića
(Beogradsko dramsko pozorište).
Suviše je opasno živjeti bezbjedno! Ova, na
prvi pogled apsurdna rečenica, u Gradu
Teatru dobro je izanalizirana što je dovelo
do toga da se, ne zastajkujući, ide ka novim izazovima, eksperimentima, do novog,
ljepšeg i kvalitetnijeg programa.
Za otvaranje i zatvaranje Festivala, pripremili smo još dvije produkcije: Baletski gala koncert u saradnji sa neprevaziđenom
Ašhen Ataljanc i Indigo Dušana Premovića,
u režiji Branislava Lečića.
Festivalska saradnja dovodi u Budvu
Kate Kapuralicu, Dubrovačkih ljetnjih
igara i Zovem se vetar, Tvrđava teatra iz
Smedereva.
Ove godine, prvi put na našem Festivalu,
tri festivalske produkcije djelo su istog autora - Karla Goldonija. Željeli smo vidjeti
kako reditelji sa ovih prostora danas čitaju djela najznačajnijeg reformatora italijanske komedije. Mediteranski duh onog
vremena, a sačuvan u našim genima,
istražuju mladi, a već afirmisani autori: Jug
Radivojević (Krčmarica Mirandolina), Ana
Vukotić (Ribarske svađe) i Boris Liješević
(Sluga dvaju gospodara). Saradnici na tim
projektima su riječko Hrvatsko narodno ka-
Mini ciklus Festivala predstaviće mladu i talentovanu Anu Vukotić sa već pomenutim
Ribarskim svađama, ali i sa Don Žuanom
(Molijer) i Četvrtom sestrom (Januš
Glovacki).
Nekad smo ih gledali na ekranu, sada na pozornici: Otac na službenom
putu (Abdulah Sidran) u režiji Olivera
Frljića (Atelje 212), Profesionalac (Dušan
Kovačević) u režiji Bogdana Diklića
(Satirično kazalište Kerempuh) i Sviraj
to ponovo, Sem (po citatu iz čuvene
U okviru festivalskog repriznog programa, vidjećemo Kanjoša Macedonovića,
Božanstvenu komediju i Konte Zanovića.
Uočljiv je trud da svaka predstava ovogodišnjeg Festivala, sa razlogom bude na repertoaru, uz podrazumijevajući kvalitet. I,
takođe, uz podrazumijevanje istine da je,
zapravo, opasno živjeti bezbjedno!
Muzički program
Prvi dio programa pripada budvanskim
pijanistima, koji su međunarodno afirmisani. Njih troje nam u goste dovode
umjetnike iz sredina u kojima trenutno
rade, pa će pred budvanskom publikom
nastupiti tri kamerna dua: Nikola Vučković i
Marko Simović, Grana Đikanović i Giacomo
Ferrari, i Jelena Polović i Claudia Goebl.
Na otvorenoj sceni ranije smo slušali džez,
pa simfonijsku muziku, a ove godine ćemo slušati horove: Jedinstvo (Kotor), Viva
Vox (Beograd) i Akademski hor Collegium
Musicum (koji će pod dirigentskom palicom Darinke Matić Marović svečano i zatvoriti Festival).
U saradnji sa Ambasadom Ukrajine, biće
održan koncert sastava Sumy Saxophone
Quartet i dueta Viva.
Ljubitelji kamerne muzike slušaće duo gitara – Danijela Cerovića i Gorana Krivokapića
Sem izložbi u crkvi Santa Marija (izlažu: Izet
Alečković, Jelena Papović, Maja Erdeljanin),
čekaju nas radionice i performans, sa ciljem da uključe publiku u proces stvaranja:
- radionica Oslikaj predstavu omogućiće
mladim umjetnicima da afirmišu svoje radove (studenti će dobiti mogućnost da, u
toku priprema predstava, crtaju ili slikaju
ono što vide). Po igranju svih planiranih
produkcija, organizovaće se izložba takmičarskog karaktera.
- performans Oslikaj crno žutom i žuto crnom, animiraće publiku u negalerijskom /
alternativnom prostoru na Trgu pjesnika.
(Ovaj dio likovnog programa korespondira
sa komedijama Karla Goldonija: na postavljenim platnima, u bojama Festivala, moći
će da učestvuju i slikaju svi zainteresovani.)
Na Trgu pjesnika će i svoje karikature izložiti neprevaziđeni Predrag Koraksić Corax.
Likovni dio Festivala završiće izložba dokumentarnih i umjetničkih fotografija pod
zajedničkim imenom Snovi i stvarnost.
Književni program
Na Trgu pjesnika ove godine, nastupiće:
Dragan Radulović, Slobodan Tišma, Lena
Ruth Stefanović, Borivoje Adašević, Gojko
Čelebić, Uglješa Šajtinac, Ivančica Đerić,
Dragan Velikić, Snježana Kordić, Ksenija
Popović…
Poseban nastup imaće i Organizacija The
Books of Knjige, a biće upriličeno i veče
posvećeno djelu Vladimira Vukićevića.
79
Hot festival summer – Theater city Budva
We used to watch those on screen, and
now we can expect them on stage: Father
on a business trip (Abdulah Sidran) directed by Oliver Frljić, The Professional
(Dušan Kovačević), directed by Bogdan
Diklić (Satiric theatre Kerempuh) and
Play It Again, Sam (based on quotation
from famous Casablanca) directed by
Marko Manojlović (Dramatic theatre from
Belgrade).
A man who laughs
is a man who is not
afraid
This year’s, 26th Theater city Budva motto is:“ You find this funny, don’t you?!” because coproduction cycle is dedicated to comedy, whose catharsis power has long been understood!
The quote in headline is taken from Inn
keeping girl Mirandolina, by Carlo Goldoni,
which is together with Fishermen’s
Disputes and Two Maters’ Servant, on this
year’s festival programme. This motto represents poetics of Goldoni himself, who
neared comedy to daily reality, by psychological deepening of characters in comedy
dell’arte. On the other hand, ambivalence
of theatrical expression, as well as ambivalence of life itself, constant need for
intellectual provocation and self-questi-
oning, for auto-irony that opens new possibilities, are just few of associative suggestions that art is actually necessary valve
for overcoming limits of reality. Moreover,
overcoming limits of reality is the vision of
the festival.
Festival cooperation brings to Budva
Kate Kapuralica, from Summer plays from
Dubrovnik, and My name is wind, by
Fortress theatre from Smederevo.
As part of festival repetition program, we
will see plays Kanjoš Macedonović, Divine
Comedy and Konte Zanović.
Theatrical
program
It is too dangerous to live safely! This, at
first sight absurd sentence, thoroughly
analyzed in Theatre City, led to advancing
towards new challenges, experiments, without stopping, to achieve new, better and
more quality program.
This year, for the first time in our Festival,
tri festival productions are plays by the same author – Carlo Goldoni. We wanted to
see how local directors today read works
of the most significant reformer of Italian
comedy. Young, yet already affirmed authors research mediterranean spirit of his
time, kept in our genes: Jug Radivojević
(Inn keeping girl Mirandolina), Ana Vukotić
(Fishermen’s Disputes) and Boris Liješević
(Two Masters’ Servant). Croatian national
theater from Rijeka, Montenegrin national theater from Podgorica and Serbian
National theater from Novi Sad, also cooperate on this projects.
For opening and closing of Festival, we
prepared two more productions: Ballet
gala concert, in cooperation with magnificent Ašen Ataljanc, and Indigo by Dušan
Premović, directed by Branislav Lečić.
Mini cycle of Festival will present young
and talented Ana Vukotić with already
mentioned “Fishermens’ Dispute”, but also
with “Don Juan” (Molier) and “Fourth Sister”
(Janus Glovacki).
80
We made an effort to prove that each play
of this year’s Festival is put on stage for a
reason, each possessing undisputable quality. In addition, with understanding the
truth that living safely is, actually, dangerous!
Music program
The first part of the program belongs to
pianists from Budva, who are already internationally recognized. Three of them
bring us guest artists from the places they
currently work at, so the audience in Budva
will have a chance to hear: Nikola Vučković
and Marko Simović, Grana Đikanović and
Giacomo Ferrari, and Jelena Polović and
Claudia Goebl.
On open scene, we used to listen to jazz
and even symphonic music, but this year
we will listen to choirs: Jedinstvo (Kotor),
Viva Vox (Belgrade) and Academic choir
Collegium Musicum (which will, conducted by Darinka Matić Marović, solemnly
close the Festival).
In cooperation with Ukrainian embassy, a
concert of band Sumy Saxophone Quartet
and duo Viva, will be held.
Fans of chamber music will listen to guitar duo – Danijel Cerović and Goran
Krivokapić, and trio Tritonus (pianist Bojan
Martinović, violinist Miran Begić and cellist
Igor Perazić).
Guests of the Festival Žana Lekić and
Aleksej Molčanov (professors on Academy
from Cetinje) will perform in opening of
exhibition, of their neighboring students
of painting from Academy.
Art program:
all colours of
yellow and black
This year’s art program is diverse and rich,
and it was created from playing with painting colours of the Festival – All colours
of yellow and black. Beside exhibitions in
Santa Maria church (exhibitors will be Izet
Alečković, Jelena Popović, Maja Erdeljanin),
some workshops and performances will
be waiting for us, with aim to include the
audience in the creative process:
- workshop Paint the Play will empower
young artists to affirm their work (students
will get a chance to, during preparations
for plays, draw or paint what they see).
After the end of all plays, an exhibition with
competitive character will be organized.
- Performance Paint black with yellow,
and yellow with black, will animate the
public in non-gallery/alternative space on
Poet’s Square. (This part of art programme
is in coordination with comedies of Carlo
Goldoni: on set canvases, in colours of the
Festival, anyone who is interested will have a chance to take part and paint something).
- Extraordinary Predrag Koraksić Corax will
exhibit his caricatures on Poet’s Square.
Art segment of the Festival will be closed
by exhibition of documentary and artistic
photography under mutual name Dreams
and Reality.
Literary program
This year on Poet’s Square, the following
artists will take part: Dragan Radulović,
Slobodan Tišma, Lena Ruth Stefanović,
Borivoje Adašević, Gojko Čelebić, Uglješa
Šajtinac, Ivančica Đerić, Dragan Velikić,
Snježana Kordić, Ksenija Popović…
Organization The Books of Knjige will have special performance, and there will be
organized evening dedicated to work of
Vladimir Vukićević.
81
We invite you to experience unique feeling in unspoiled nature beauty, in the surrounding of
Durmitor massif, its lakes, rivers and canyons. These resources make Zabljak one of the most
beautiful mountain resorts in the Balkans.
ABOUT HOTEL
Respecting nature and environmental values, hotel SOA has been
built at Žabljak, in the very heart of the National park Durmitor.
Whether you are on a business trip, a romantic weekend or on a
holiday with your family, Hotel offers you eight rooms and 10 suites
that provide complete comfort.
With a magnificent view of Durmitor massif, by fireplace, enjoy
delicious meals and a selection of various desserts.
Address: National park Durmitor 84220 Zabljak, Montenegro
Tel: +382 (0)52 360 110 Fax: +382 (0)52 360 111 Mob: +382 (0)69 151 152
Email: [email protected] Web: www.hotelsoa.com
hot festival summer
Tivat, Montenegro Dance Festival
festivalsko vrelo ljeto
Tivat, Montenegro Dance Festival
Zaplešimo!
LET’S DANCE!
By: Vojislav Kaluđerović
Tekst: Vojislav Kaluđerović
Tivatski Montenegro Dance
Festival, šesti po redu,
trajaće ovog puta do kraja
juna. Popularizacijom plesa
animira se publika i doprinosi turističkoj ponudi Tivta
M
ontenegro Dance Festival je takmičarskog karaktera i namjerno
se organizuje krajem juna, kao
vjesnik kulturnih dešavanja i vrelih dana
koji čekaju Tivćane i sve njihove goste.
Učesnici će se takmičiti u više vrsta plesa:
klasični balet, hip hop, folklor, latino plesovi, tap, contemporary...
Osim plesa, žiri će ocjenjivati i nagrađivati i
koreografije i kostime.
Crnogorski plesni festival je više od festivala, jer organizator uz plesne performanse, sa zadovoljstvom sve goste upoznaje sa jednom od najljepših obala na
Sredozemlju – Crnogorskim primorjem i,
makar dok Festival traje, pruža ugođaj jedinstvenog mediteranskog načina života.
Uz to, Tivćanima je gostoprimstvo oduvijek
jača strana. A u goste im dolaze:
- Škola klasičnog baleta MOSKVICH, Rusija
- KUD Plana, Velika Plana, Srbija
- Ansambl EXCLUSIVE, Rusija
- Ansambl Mitevi, Makedonija
86
- Ansambl SOLNESHKO, Rusija
- Studio orijentalnog pleas AMIRA,
Boshkortostan
- Koregrafski ansambl MOZAIK, Irkutsk
- Folk ansambl OMSK, Rusija
- Ansambl GEST, Poljska
- Grupa NOVAYA VERSIA, Rusija
- Enigma, Tivat – Crna Gora
- ŠPK Romantik, Mostar – Bosna i
Hercegovina
Posljednja, Gala veče, organizovaće se na
Ljetnjoj pozornici Centra za kulturu Tivat, i
tada će najbolji u svim vrstama plesa, dobiti zaslužene nagrade. Zato, dođite da plešemo zajedno!
Sixth Montenegro Dance Festival from Tivat, this time will last until end of June. The public
will be animated by popularization of dance, all of which contributes to Tivat’s tourist offer.
M
ontenegro Dance Festival has
competitive character, and is deliberately organized at the end of
June, as announcement of cultural events
and hot days that are expecting citizens of
Tivat and all their guests. Participants will
compete in several kinds of dance: classical ballet, hip-hop, folklore, Latino dances,
tap, contemporary dances…
Beside dance, the jury will also evaluate
and reward choreographies and costumes.
Montenegrin dance festival is more than
simply a festival, because the organizer,
besides dance performances, offers with
pleasure, to his guests, meeting with one
of the most beautiful Mediterranean coasts – Montenegrin coast, and gives them
the opportunity to feel, for at least while
Festival lasts, the unique Mediterranean
lifestyle. People from Tivat have always been known for their hospitality. And their
guests this time will be:
School for classical ballet MOSKVICH,
Russia
KUD Plana, Velika Plana, Serbia
Ensemble EXCLUSIVE, Russia
Ensemble Mitevi, Macedonia
Ensemble SOLNESHKO, Russia
Studio for oriental dance AMIRA,
Boshkortostan
Choreographic ensemble MOZAIK, Irkutsk
Folk ensemble OMSK, Russia
Ensemble GEST, Poland
Group NOVAYA VERSIA, Russia
ENIGMA, Tivat – Montenegro
ŠPK Romantik, Mostar – Bosnia and
Herzegovina
The last, gala night, will take place on
Summer stage of Cultural center from
Tivat, and the best competitors in all kinds of dance will receive their earned prizes.
So, come and dance with us!
87
Budva
festivalsko vrelo ljeto - Tivat, Purgatorije 2012.
Po mediteranski
U čast kulture i umjetnosti
Mediterana, od 1. jula do 15.
septembra, održava se VIII
festival mediteranskog
teatra Purgatorije 2012.
Tekst: Milena Radojević
90
D
đite u Tivat! Jer, Centar za kulturu
o
organizovao je čak 70 programa
za domaću i gostujuću publiku na
Crnogorskom primorju.
Bogati pozorišni program mediteranskog manira, kao što je publika već navikla, nudi mnogo toga u svom takmičarskom dijelu: kultnu predstavu Ateljea 212
- „Otac na službenom putu”, „Lukreciju ili
Ždero” i „Sumnjivo lice”, Jagoša Markovića
(Jugoslovensko dramsko pozorište), produkcije Slovenskog narodnog gledališča,
Dubrovačkih ljetnjih igara, HNK Rijeka...
Vašem likovnom ukusu i sudu, biće pred-
stavljen čitav niz likovnih izložbi, na čelu sa
izložbom Dušana Petričića, ilustratora i karikaturiste, sa kojim su odrastale generacije.
Kniževni program počeće književnom večeri Davida Albaharija.
Kanada u Tivtu
Poseban segment Purgatorija jesu Dani
Kanade u Tivtu, pod pokroviteljstvom
Ambasade Kanade, a zamišljen je kao okupljanje umjetnika koji su svojim životom i
radom vezani za naše podneblje i Kanadu,
državu koju, ipak, ne poznajemo dovoljno.
Ovo će biti prilika da bar donekle upoznamo lice njene kulture i u tome će nam
pomoći: Margaret Atvud, Dušan Petričić,
David Albahari, Dragana Varagić...
Premijere
derne dramaturgije: horske scene koje se
smjenjuju sa monolozima (klasika), a izvode se u mjuzikl i kabare stilu. Ovaj neobični spoj, u režiji Dragane Varagić, iznijeće
na svojim glumačkim plećima: Dubravka
Vukotić, Tanja Bošković, Ivana Mrvaljević,
Kristina Stevović, Branka Femić i studenti
cetinjske Akademije.
Prvu premijeru u svojoj produkciji, Centar
priprema za 28. jul (reprize 29. i 30. jula).
Predstava „Penelopijada”, po tekstu
Margaret Atvud, priča je iz Hada, ali iz perspektive XXI vijeka. „Penelopijada” integriše
strukturu klasične grčke drame i stil mo-
„Čovjek iz Lemura” (premijera 12. septembra, reprize 13. i 14. septembra) druga
je premijera tivatskog Centra za kulturu.
Adaptaciju Servantesovog „Don Kihota”
uradio je Erol Kadić, koji potpisuje i režiju.
Čovjek iz Lemura sjedi u jednom od kru-
gova Danteovog pakla i, čekajući suđenje
Svete crkve, svojim pričama o prijateljstvu,
ljubavi, slobodi, vjeri, nastoji ubijediti izgubljene duše da mogu biti bolji, ljepši, mudriji, duhovitiji... Žanrovski, komad je crna
komedija, a realizuje se u formi mjuzikla.
Predstava će, vjeruju u ansamblu, natjerati
i melanholika da se smije. A ansambl mnogo obećava: Vlastimir Đuza Stojiljković,
Mladen Nelević, Boro Stjepanović,
Slobodan Boda Ninković, Julija Milačić,
Emir Ćatović...
91
hot festival summer – Tivat, Purgatory 2012
Mediterranean way
By: Milena Radojević
C
ome to Tivat! Because, Cultural
center has organized no less than
70 programs for local and guest
public on Montenegrin coast.
Rich theatrical program in Mediterranean
manner, just like the public is used to, offers a lot in its competitive segment: cult
play of Atelje 212 – “Father on a Business
Trip”, “Lukrecia or Ždero” and “Suspicious
person”, Jagoš Marković (Yugoslav dramatic theatre), production of Slovenian nation92
Atwood, Dušan Petričić, David Albahari,
Dragana Varagić…
Premieres
The first premiere in its own production, Cultural center prepares for July 28
(repetitions on July 29 and 30). The play
“Penelopysation”, based on the text by
Margaret Atwood, is story from Hell, but
also from the perspective of XXI century.
“Penelopysation” is integrating the structure of classical Greek drama and the style
of modern dramaturgy: choir scenes followed by monologues (classic), performed
in the style of musical and cabaret. This
unusual mix, directed by Dragana Varagić,
al theatre, Summer plays from Dubrovnik,
Croatian national theatre from Rijeka…
Canada in Tivat
A whole line of art exhibitions will be presented in front of your artistic taste and
judgment, the first being exhibition by
Dušan Petričić, illustrator and caricaturist,
with whose work whole generations grew
up.
Special segment of Purgatory are Days
of Canada in Tivat, under patronage of
Canadian embassy, imagined as gathering
of artists whose lives and work are connected both to our region, and to Canada,
a country we still know little about. This
will be perfect opportunity to get to know
the face of culture in Canada, and in that
venture we will get help from Margaret
Literary program will begin with literary
evening of David Albahari.
In honor of Mediterranean culture and art, from July 1 to
September 15, VIII festival of Mediterranean theatre
Purgatory 2012 will take place.
will skillfully perform Dubravka Vukotić,
Tanja Bošković, Ivana Mrvaljević, Kristina
Stevović, Branka Femić and students from
Academy in Cetinje.
“A Man from Lemur” (premiere on
September 12, repetitions on September
13 and 14) is another premiere of Cultural
centre from Tivat. Erol Kadić adapted
Cervantes’ “Don Quixote”, and also directed this play. A man from Lemur sits
in one of the circles of Dante’s hell, and
waiting for the trial by Saint church, attempts to convince lost souls that they
can become better, more beautiful, wiser,
wittier, with his stories about friendship,
love, freedom, faith… By its genre, it is
black comedy, realized in form of musical.
This play, as the ensemble believes, will
make even melancholic man to laugh.
Moreover, ensemble itself is promising:
Vlastimir Đuza Stojiljković, Mladen Nelević,
Boro Stjepanović, Slobodan Boda Ninković,
Julija Milačić, Emir Ćatović…
93
FESTIVALSKO VRELO LJETO - KOTOR ART 2012
Umjetnost će
okupirati sve pjace!
Tekst: Olga Žulović, Foto: Slaven Vilus
Spektakularnim „Labudovim jezerom” na štulama, ulični teatar La Terra Nuova iz Peruđe,
otvoriće na Trgu od oružja ovogodišnji Međunarodni festival KotorArt i, jubilarni,
XX Kotorski festival pozorišta za djecu
M
eđunarodni festival KotorArt
2012, počeće 1. jula. Do 14. avgusta, u 45 festivalskih dana, više od 1000 umjetnika i djece, izvešće 96
programa. I ove godine, Festival će imati
segmente: Dječji festival, Don Brankove
dane muzike, KotorArtTeatar, Pisanje grada,
Radionicu arhitekture i Pjacu od filozofa.
96
Od 1 - 10. jula, kada će, simbolično, ključevi
grada biti u rukama djece, premijerno će
biti izvedeno sedamdeset i tri programa:
15 profesionalnih pozorišnih predstava, 33
programa dječjeg stvaralaštva, 6 teorijskih
i 8 animacionih programa, kao i 11 umjetničkih radionica.
Na Kotorskom festivalu pozorišta za djecu
nastupiće više od 280 profesionalaca, i to u
hit predstavama poput „Labudovog jezera”,
italijanskog tetra La Terra Nuova, „Afričke
bajke”, u koprodukciji teatara iz Zimbabvea
i Austrije, kao i u predstavi „Pinokio” iz
Francuske, koja je više puta nagrađivana.
Sve to je povodom jubileja ove najznačajnije manifestacije, posvećene pozorišnom
Don Brankovi dani muzike, XI po redu,
na program su od 13. jula do 13. avgusta. Ugostiće umjetnike iz 14 zemalja.
Nastupiće 3 orkestra sa 6 dirigenata, 40
solista i kamerni sastavi, među kojima su
neprikonovene zvijezde današnjice - Miša
Majski i Denis Macuev. Publika će biti u prilici da čuje izvođenje preko 100 muzičkih
djela, što je oko 20 sati najkvalitetnijeg umjetničkog muzičkog preograma.
I ove godine studenti akademija sa Cetinja
ispisivaće grad kroz radionice Pisanje grada. „Tama svjetlosti – Upotrebljiva umjetnost” je festivalska laboratorija kroz koju
će, tokom šest dana, studente cetinjskih
akademija voditi slovenački reditelj Marko
Bulc. Osnov za ispisivanje pitanje je koliko
umjetnost može biti upotrebljiva u kontekstu zahtjeva kapitalističke mašine naše
epohe? Odgovore do kojih dolaze studenti
i njihov mentor, vidjećemo na završnoj prezentaciji 28. jula. Izvršni producent projekta
je Fakultet dramskih umjetnosti sa Cetinja.
KotorArTeatar će, od 20. jula do 11.
Avgusta, sem reprize predstave „Njegoš,
vatre”, rađene po motivima Njegoševe
„Luče Mikrokozma”, a u režiji Radmile
Vojvodić i Paola Magellija, imati i tri premijere: Krležinu „Leda”, u koprodukciji sa Zagrebačkim kazalištem mladih i
Zetskim domom sa Cetinja - režija Anice
Tomić; „Guliver” u režiji Petra Pejakovića,
u cjelosti produkcija Kotor Art-a, i
„Egzistenciju” Radmile Vojvodić, po tekstu
Edvarda Bonda, koja je koprodukcija sa
Crnogorskim narodnim pozorištem.
Na međunarodnoj ljetnjoj školi arhitekture
Kotor APSS (Arhitectural Prison Summer
School) pojaviće se najznačajnija imena iz
te oblasti, koji će u prostoru starog kotorskog zatvora (Apsa), zajedno sa studentima
promišljati o prostoru i arhitekturi. Novac
predviđen za smještaj učesnika, iskoristiće
se za adaptaciju tog starog austrougarskog
zdanja, kako bi se podstakla svijest o razvoju „kulturnog turizma” i upotrebi ovakvih
resursa. Kotor, kao jedinstvena (arhitektonska) inspiracija, pomoći će studentima
da predstave svoje radove tokom “Open
stvarlaštvu za djecu i mlade u Jugoistočnoj
Evropi.
Prison Night”. Ljetnja škola arhitekture,
realizuje se u saradnji sa DVARP – om iz
Podogorice i ORIS - om iz Zagreba, a završiće 14. avgusta konferencijom „Crnogorski
dani Orisa” sa oko 400 učesnika.
Pjaca od filozofa će u svom teorijskom
diskursu, upriličiti susret sa Antoniom
Negriem, jednim od, sigurno, najznačajnijih ličnosti današnjice u svijetu političke
teorije i filosofije. Predavanje A. Negria je
predviđeno za 11.avgust.
Završetak
Međunarodnog
festivala
KotorArt 2012. obilježiće 13. i 14. avgusta
dvije predstave u francusko - italijanskoj
koprodukciji, rađene upravo po Negrijevim
tekstovima “Trilogy of Critics”, a u režiji
Barbare Nicolier.
Ovogodišnji program Kotor Art-a je, uvjereni smo, najljepši razlog da ljeto provedete na crnogorskom primorju. Pardon, na
kotorskim pjacetama!
97
hot festival summer - Kotor Art 2012
All the Piazzas
will be Occupied
with Art!
Street theatre La Terra Nuova from Perugia with its spectacular “Swan Lake” on stilts will
open, on Square of Arms on July 1, this year’s International Festival KotorArt and jubilee, XX
Kotor Festival of Theatre for Children.
by: Olga Žulović, Photo: Slaven Vilus
I
nternational festival KotorArt 2012 will
begin on July 1, and last until August
14. During 45 festival days, over 1 000
artists and children will present 96 programs. This year, the festival will also consist of its recognizable segments: Festival
for Children, Don Branko’s Music Days,
KotorArt Theatre, The Writings of the Town,
Architectural Workshop and Square of
Philosophers.
From July 1 to July 10, when, symbolically,
the keys of the town will be in children’s
hands, total of 73 programs will have their premieres, out of which 15 professional
theatrical plays, 33 programs of art for
children, 6 theoretical and 8 animation
programs, as well as 11 artistic workshops.
Over 280 professionals in hit plays, such
as “Swan Lake” by Italian theatre La Terra
Nuova, “African Fairytales” – co-production
of theatres from Zimbabwe and Austria,
“Pinocchio”, multiple times awarded play
from France, will perform on Kotor Theatre
Festival for Children all in honour of jubilee
of this most important manifestation dedicated to theatrical creative work for children and young people in South-eastern
Europe.
XI Don Branko’s Days of Music, from July 13
to August 13, will entertain artists from 14
countries. Three orchestra with 6 conductors will perform, along with 40 soloists
and chamber ensembles, among which
are true stars of today’s world of artistic
98
music - Miša Majski and Denis Macuev.
Audience will have the chance to hear
over 100 works, which is around 20 hours
of the highest quality artistic music.
KotorArt Theatre will have, from July 20 to
August 11, three premieres and one repetition of theatrical play “Njegoš, the fires”, based upon motifs from “Luča Mikrokozma”
by Petar II Petrović Njegoš, directed by
Radmila Vojvodić and Paolo Magelli. “Leda”
by Krleža, will be presented in co-production of Theatre of Young People from Zagreb
and Theatre of Zeta from Cetinje, directed
by Anica Tomić. Play “Gulliver”, directed
by Petar Pejaković is entirely produced by
KotorArt, and play “Existence” (based on
text by Edvard Bond) directed by Radmila
Vojvodić, will be realized in co-production
with Montenegrin National Theatre.
This year also, students of artistic academies from Cetinje, will write all over town
through workshops of “Writings of the
Town”. “The Darkness of the Light – Usable
Art”, is festival laboratory through which,
during six days, Slovenian director Marko
Bulc will lead students of academies from
Cetinje. How usable can art be in the context of requests of capitalistic machine of
our epoch? Students and their mentor will
give us the answers they got, on final presentation on July 28. Executive producer
of this project is Academy of Drama from
Cetinje.
In International Summer School of
Architecture Kotor APSS (Architectural
Prison Summer School), some of the most
significant names in this area will appear,
and together with students, consider questions of space and architecture. Money taken for accommodation of participants will
be used for adaptation of this old building,
in order to enhance consciousness about
development of “cultural tourism” and usage of such resources. Kotor, as unique (architectural) inspiration, will help students
to present their works during “Open Prison
Night”. Summer School of Architecture,
realized in co-operation with DVARP from
Podgorica and ORIS from Zagreb, will be
finished on August 14 with conference
“Montenegrin Days of Oris” with approximately 400 participants.
Square of Philosophers, with its theoretical discourse, will organize meeting with
Antonio Negri, who is surely one of the
most significant names in today’s world of
political theory and philosophy. His lecture
is foreseen for August 11, and International
Festival KotorArt 2012 will be, on August
13 and 14, closed by two plays in FrenchItalian co-production, created upon Negri’s
texts “Trilogy of Critics”, directed by Barbara
Nicolier.
We strongly believe that this year’s program of KotorArt Festival is sufficient reason for you to spend your summer vacation on Montenegrin coast…
Kvalitetom do vas...
Preduzeće za proizvodnju, promet i usluge, export-import
Humci 29, Cetinje, Crna Gora
Tel. +382 41 / 238-232, GSM +382 67 504 378
KO BI TO REKAO?
U PEĆINI
SVETILIŠTE
Tekst: Doc. dr Goran Barović
Fotografija: NTO
Pritisnuti nevoljama vremena u kojima su živjeli i odlično razumijevajući
strahopoštovanje koje tajnovita mjesta izazivaju u ljudima, Sv.Vasilije Ostroški i
arhimandrit Simeon Popović, osnovali su manastire u - pećinama
Č
injenica je da je čovjek, još od praistorije, shvatio dobre strane pećina
koje je otkrivao u svom okruženju.
Sem što su mu uglavnom pružale sklonište, još nevješt gradnji, a ipak zamišljen nad
prirodom sopstvenog trajanja i uznemiren
pojavama oko sebe, čovjek je u pećinama
formirao i svoje prve bogomolje o čemu
svjedoče sačuvani crteži i drugi tragovi
ljudskog postojanja i djelovanja u dalekoj
prošlosti.
Vremenom se čovjek mijenjao, postajao
moćniji i sigurniji, potčinjavajući sebi i svojim potrebama gotovo sve što je nalazio u
okruženju i prirodi. Pećine nije zaboravio,
samo što danas one imaju brojne, različite
svrhe: turistički uređeni objekti, skloništa,
skladišta, liječilišta, mjesta za proizvodnju
gljiva i sl.
Pojedine pećine, tj. speleološki objekti, su
i u našoj ranijoj prošlosti dobili specifičnu
upotrebnu dimenziju. Naravno, zbog specifičnosti vremêna koja su za nama i prelamanja različitih istorijskih iskustava na
ovom prostoru. Tako su pojedini speleološki objekti, pod silom istorijskih okolnosti,
pretvoreni u svetilišta – u njima su podignuti manastiri!
Same pećine oduvijek su kod ljudi izazivale
strahopoštovanje. Za njih su vezivali nevjerovatne događaje, pripisivali im natprirodne moći, u njih smiještali vile i vještice,
svece i bogove, i mnoga druga nadljudska
bića. Dovoljno uman da iskoristi efekat
koji pećine izazivaju u kolektivnoj svijesti i
spoznaji, Vasilije Jovanović je podigao ma102
nastir u pećini na litici! Nema sumnje da je
kod vjernika izazvao dodatno poštovanje,
uzbuđenje i ushićenje, jer i danas ovaj manastir, i zbog mjesta gdje je sagrađen, oduzima dah!
štovanjem, pohode i mnogi inovjerci. U
ljudskoj prirodi je vječita težnja za srećom,
a manastir Ostrog, usađen u ostrošku liticu,
i na sami pogled budi nadu i radost života.
U tome su svi ljudi jednaki.
Prema narodnom predanju, Vasilije
Jovanović - kasnije Sv. Vasilije Ostroški,
imao je namjeru da manastir osnuje u
Milića pećini kod sela Zagorka, ili na crkvištu u selu Drenoštica (Pješivci), ali se, ipak,
odlučio za jednu okapinu u Ostroškim gredama, u kojoj su već živjeli neki isposnici.
Možda poučen ostroškim primjerom, u
selu Dajbabe, nedaleko od Podgorice, arhimandrit Simeon Popović, takođe osniva
manastir u pećini.
Na njegovu odluku je, vjerovatno, uticalo
i to što u to vrijeme pored Ostroških greda nije bilo puta, a đe nema puta, manje
je neprijatelja. Sa druge strane, ako bi neprijatelji i došli do manastira, sa njegove
pozicije u liticama, lakše se mogao braniti. I
bio je u pravu: tokom ratova koji su protutnjali ovim prostorom, neprijatelj je stizao
pod Ostrog, ali je i odbrana manastira bila
žestoka.
Manastir Ostrog podignut je u okapini čije dimenzije danas ne možemo precizno
odrediti, jer je tokom njegove izgradnje
i renoviranja dosta toga zazidano i prezidano. Osnovan je u drugoj polovini XVII
vijeka. Manastir je u nekoliko navrata renoviran i dograđivan, pa današnji izgled
tek podsjeća na njegovo prvobitno stanje.
Ovaj manastir, u kojem počivaju mošti Sv.
Vasilija Ostroškog, predstavlja jedno od naših najposjećenijih svetilišta. Iako je Ostrog
manastir pravoslavnih vjernika, njegova
veličina je i u tome što ga, sa dubokim po-
Kraj je XIX vijeka, još su vremena smutna
i čudna, a vjeru treba ispovijedati za spas
svoga naroda, te se on na to odlučuje, iskoristivši prostor neobične, velike pećine sa
tri kanala.
Glavni kanal je najveći i u njemu se nalazi
oltar. Otprilike pet, šest metara od ulaza, i
lijevo i desno su sporedni kanali. Kanal na
desnoj strani je veći i stepenasto se spušta ka dvorani dimenzija: 3 m x 3 m x 5
m. Lijevi kanal je manji, a i on se završava
omanjom dvoranom. Zidovi i svodovi u
pećini - manastiru ukrašeni su crkvenim
slikama, a u cijelom objektu je, naravno mnogo kasnije, razvedena i rasvjeta. Zato
je razgledanje manastirskih svetinja i dobara mnogo ugodnije. Sa obje strane ulaza
nalaze se zvonici povezani krovnom konstrukcijom. Ona je ujedno nadstrešica ulaza u pećinu – manastir Dajbabe. Naravno,
specifičnom utisku o ovom manastiru, od
početka doprinosi tajanstvenost pećinske
dubine, koliko i mudra odluka njegovog
osnivača Simeona.
103
Who would tell?
Monastery Dajbabe
Jovanović – later called Saint Vasilije
Ostroški, intended to build a monastery
in Milića cave, near village Zagorak, or on
the church ground in village Drenoštica
(Pješivci), however, he opted for one gutter
in Ostrog trenches, where some hermits
have already lived.
Monastery Ostrog
His decision probably was influenced by
the fact that there was no road in that time, near Ostrog trenches, and where there
is no road, enemies are rare. On the other
hand, even if the enemies reached the monastery, with its position among cliffs, he
could defend the monastery easier. And
he was right: during all the wars that thundered over this area, enemy came under
Ostrog, but the defense was fierce.
Sacred place
in the cave
Text by: PhD Goran Barović
By: Doc. dr Goran Barović
Photo: TO Podgorica, NTO
Oppressed by troubles of the time they lived in, clearly understanding awe that secret places
cause in people, Saint Vasilije Ostroški and archimandrite Simeon Popović, founded monasteries in – caves.
T
he fact is that man, ever since prehistoric times, understood advantages of the caves he discovered in
his surrounding. Man, still lacking skills in
construction, yet pensive over the nature
of his own life and disturbed by phenomena surrounding him, used the caves not
only as a shelter, but also as places for the
first temples, which can be proved by remains of drawings and other traces of human existence and work in faraway past. In
time, man changed, becoming more potent and secure, subordinating to himself
and to his own needs, everything he ever
found in nature and his surrounding. He
never forgot caves, only that they have
104
numerous, different purposes nowadays:
tourist settlements, shelters, storages, health resorts, mushroom growing sites, and
so on.
Certain caves, or to be precise, speleological objects, got specific dimension of usability in our past. Of course, that happened
due to specificity of times behind us, and
due to overlapping of different historic
experiences in this area. Therefore, certain
speleological objects, under the pressure
of historic circumstances, were turned into
sacred places – monasteries were built in
them!
The caves themselves have always caused
awe in people. They associated amazing
events with caves, attributed them with
supernatural powers, placed fairies and
witches inside the caves, saints and gods,
and many more superhuman creatures.
Wise enough to use the effect caves have
on collective consciousness and knowledge, Vasilije Jovanović built a monastery in
the cave on a cliff! No doubt, that he provoked additional respect, thrill and excitement among believers, because even
nowadays this monastery is breathtaking,
partly due to the spot it was built on!
According to popular oral report, Vasilije
Ostrog monastery was built in gutter whose dimensions today cannot be precisely
determined, because during its foundation
and renovating, a lot was walled and built over. The monastery was found in the
second half of XVII century. It was renovated and annexed on several occasions, so
today’s appearance barely reminds of its
original state. This monastery, where relics
of Saint Vasilije Ostroški rest, represents
one of our most visited sacred places.
Although monastery Ostrog is monastery
of Christian orthodox believers, its greatness lies in the fact that, even members
of other religions come here, paying deep
respect. Eternal quest for happiness is
innate to human nature, and Ostrog monastery, planted in Ostrog cliff, even when
one just casts a look at it, awakens the hope and joy of life. And that’s where all people are equal at.
Maybe taught by example of Ostrog, archimandrite Simeon Popović, also founded a monastery in cave, in village called
Dajbabe, not far from Podgorica.
XX century is nearing its end, times are
insecure and strange, and people should
confess the religion for their own salvation,
so he makes a decision to build, using the
space of this unusual, big cave composed
of three channels.
The main channel is the largest one, and
the altar is situated there. Approximately
five to six meters from the entrance, on
right and left side, are secondary channels.
Channel on the right is bigger and gradually lands towards the hall with the
following dimensions: 3m x 3m x 5m. Left
channel is smaller, and it ends with a little
hall. Walls and ceilings in the cave-monastery are ornamented with church paintings, and in the entire object, electric lights
are installed – of course, much later. That
makes watching monastery sacred belongings much more comfortable. On both
sides of the entrance there are bell-towers
connected by roof construction. It is, at the
same time; cover over the entrance to the
cave-monastery Dajbabe. Of course, since
the beginning, mystery of the cave depth,
as much as wise decision of its founder
Simeon, contribute to specific impression
about this monastery.
105
INTERVJU - Nj. V. Princ Nikola II Petrović Njegoš
Neka bude što
biti ne može!
Razgovarala: Nada Bukilić • Foto: Anes Lekić
U vrijeme ljeta, na Cetinju je sve posebno lijepo: ulice pod cvatom mirisnih lipa, mladi svijet
zabavljen svojim šalama i smijehom, klupe na trgu, kafanske baštice... Ali, posebno ozračje
cetinjskoj promenadi, daje prisustvo Princa Nikole Petrovića – ljudi, jednostavno, vole to što ga
srijeću na svojim šetalištima, što sa njim mogu ispiti kafu i što znaju – u njegovom je srcu, baš
kao i u njihovima, Cetinje centar Planete
O
d prošle godine, kada je i zvanično dobio status prestolonasljednika, odnosno sve ono što takav
status podrazumijeva, Princ Nikola Petrović
dolazi u Crnu Goru, svoju kuću, uvjeren da
ga je, iako sa zakašnjenjem, pra-domovina prigrlila sa pravim poštovanjem. Dan
koji smo odabrali za intervju je, ipak imao
zgusnut raspored, jer postoje obaveze koje se ne daju, ali i ne smiju propustiti. Na
Cetinju su francuski novinari snimali reportažu o prijestonici male balkanske države,
a Princ Nikola im je bio domaćin, savjetnik,
prijatelj, sabesjednik i svojevrsni vodič kroz
etno-blago starog grada, kroz njegove muzeje, galerije, stare građevine, i vrlo savjestan tumač istorijskih okolnosti u kojima je
ovaj grad nastajao, trajao i postao prijestonicom za koju, ponekad u šali, a uvijek sasvim ozbiljno, kažemo – Cetinje, đe su naše
sve svetinje! Princa smo „ukrali“ francuskim
kolegama, tek pred smiraj dana, iako smo
satima vrebali priliku. Konačno, Francuzi
su, u hladu starog, visokog drveća na terasi
restorana-vidikovca, nakon ručka ispijali crno vino, a mi smo razgovarali. Solidno savladan crnogorski uz primjese francuskog,
malo mimike, poneki gest i osmjeh i – odlično smo se razumjeli.
da sebe izlažem onom osjećanju koje sam
imao ranije... maltene kao stranac.
- Kojim ste povodom, ovog puta, na
Cetinju?
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Imao sam tri povoda da dođem: doveo sam prijatelje iz
Francuske, novinarsku ekipu Radio France
Culture, jer mislim da je njihova ideja o
emisiji o Cetinju vrlo važna – biću srećan
što će francuska javnost čuti mnogo lijepih
i važnih stvari o ovom gradu. Obilazimo
muzeje i galerije, pričam im sve ono što
ja sâm znam o prijestonici, ali ih i upoznajem sa zanimljivim ličnostima crnogorske
umjetničke i javne scene, da bi i od njih čuli što relevantnije podatke o Cetinju. Drugi
povod je akcija Fondacije Petrović Njegoš
– pomoć koju smo zajedno sa cetinjskom
opštinom organizovali za najugroženije sugrađane, i, treći: sviram na koncertu! A razlog dolaska mi je uvijek isti – Cetinje i Crna
Gora, i ne treba mi drugi.
- Znate, mene je uvijek zanimalo što je to
što čovjeku, koji je kao Vi, odrastao u zemlji velike kulture, bude zanimljivo kod
nas, a da nije puka egzotika; što je Vama
najljepše u Crnoj Gori?
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: U prvom redu – priroda. I kad sam prvi put došao, priroda koju
sam ovdje vidio potpuno me je fascinirala.
Druga moja fascinacija Crnom Gorom jeste to da je tako malobrojan narod uspio
da preživi na balkanskoj vjetrometini toliko
vjekova, i to ne samo zbog stalne borbe,
već zbog načina na koji je opstao u ovakvim uslovima - te gole stijene, nepregledni kamen... Takođe, volim specifičan duh
crnogorskog čovjeka – takav duh ga je,
vjerovatno, i spasio, ali i on je nastao i razvio se u takvu snagu i u toj specifičnosti,
baš zbog datih okolnosti, i prirode koja nas
okružuje. Crna Gora liči na druge mediteranske zemlje, na Krit, Siciliju, na Sardiniju,
ali, za razliku od njih, ona ima i neopisive
ravnice, jezera, planine i dosta plodne zemlje. Taj spoj je zaista fascinantan.
- Drago mi je da se nijeste razočarali...
- Vaše Visočanstvo, kako se sada osjećate
u Crnoj Gori?
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Uvijek je bilo lijepo u
Crnoj Gori. S tim što sada imam gdje da
dođem, i da ne budem teret nikome, niti
106
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Nikada. Mada mi je
posljednjih desetak godina bilo prilično
teško, ali, zbog drugih stvari - to dvoumljenje i vaganje, to dugotrajno razmišljanje o
mom statusu, sve to je bilo iscrpljujuće...
- Da li je Vaša porodica imala razumijevanja za Vas i tu Vašu težnju ka Crnoj Gori?
Jesu li Vam ikada djeca rekla da odustanete od Crne Gore?
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Ne, nikada, naprotiv.
Vjerovatno zbog toga što su je i sami zavoljeli. Vidjeli su koliko je za mene bio težak taj period (2004, 2005, pa sve do 2011.
godine) i koliko sam teško podnio ukidanje Bijenala i neke druge stvari. Ali... to nije
mijenjalo Crnu Goru. Moja kćerka je čak i
diplomski film snimala ovdje u Crnoj Gori,
„okupirana“ onim specifičnostima koje je
ona otkrila.
- Upoznala sam Vašu Altinaj, znam da
ju je zanimala crnogorska žena i crnina
kao fenomen vezan za naše žene, redom
udovice u mladim godinama. Međutim,
one njene oči – recite, da li uobražavam
iz nekakvog nacio-romantizma, ili su to
oči kraljice...
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Milene? Upravo njene
oči! I sama Altinaj je to uočila, kao i Frans,
moja pokojna supruga.
- Vašu suprugu nijesam htjela pominjati,
da Vas ne rastužujem, ali znam njenu priču o tome kako su joj Crnogorci zamjerili
kad je jednom prilikom bila stroga prema
sinu Borisu...
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Jeste, bilo je to smiješno. Em viče na jednog princa, em na
muško dijete! Šalim se. Frans je porijeklom
Marokanka, dakle iz jedne zemlje u kojoj se
još drastičnije pravila razlika između polova, pa joj je to bilo samo simpatično, smiješno, ali ne začuđujuće. Ja sam, takođe,
upoznao običaje Maroka i nimalo se nijesam iznenadio došavši u Crnu Goru i primijetivši to podvajanje, koje nije toliko protiv
samih žena, koliko je veličanje i uznošenje
muškarca na neki imaginarni, visoki pijedestal. A kada sam pobliže upoznao Crnu
Goru, shvatio sam ono što svi Crnogorci
znaju: prava snaga, ona uporna snaga koja
ne odustaje i koja je i rodila i sačuvala ovaj
narod, jeste crnogorska žena. Gradeći svoj
svijet, mimo mačizma, mimo tog muškog
neprikosnovenog položaja, crnogorske žene su uspijevale da se izdignu iznad svega
toga što je bilo pojavno i vidljivo, i stvore
pravu, suštinsku osnovu života i temelj
ovog naroda. Moja žena je to takođe vidjela i govorila je: „Crnogorci su najbolji muževi“, jer je vidjela da je navodna grubost i bahatost, kao i sloboda koju uživaju muškarci,
samo ono što su im njihove plemenite,
mudre žene dozvolile.
- Mnogo mi se sviđa svako od tih Vaših
zapažanja. Molim Vas, nastavite.
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Ne, ovo je sasvim ozbiljan sud. Čak mislim i da su se žene mnogo
lakše emancipovale i adaptirale, i na prijašnje i na sadašnje uslove. Mi volimo da se
junačimo, pričamo, takmičimo. Mudrost je
naći ravnotežu, biti na istim talasnim duži107
o nekim „amerikama“, treba sanjati svoj san
i učiniti sve da taj san ostvarimo. A mi, bojim se, još ne možemo da se otrgnemo od
sanjanja onoga što je u svijetu bilo prije
deset godina. Mi priželjkujemo, dakle, ono
što je svijet prevazišao ili, čak, proglasio nepoželjnim. Naprotiv, dobra osnova koju mi
imamo i naša velika prednost baš je to što
nijesmo industrijalizovani, što imamo toliko plodnog zemljišta, sa velikim poljoprivrednim potencijalom. Sada, kada se traži
prirodni proizvod, organska hrana, čist vazduh, čista voda, sada je naše vrijeme. To što
bi, praktično počeli od nule, ustvari je naša
velika prednost.
Gosti iz Francuske
Gradovi
svijeta: Cetinje
Ekipa francuskog nacionalnog radija France Culture snimala je
reportažu o Cetinju i njegovim ljudima sredinom juna. Na taj
način je crnogorsku prijestonicu francuski radio uvrstio u najzanimljivije „Gradove svijeta”, kako se emisija i zove. Za potrebe snimanja ove dvočasovne reportaže, gosti iz Francuske ostali su u
Crnoj Gori nedjelju dana, a domaćin i svojevrsni vodič kroz istoriju i kulturu grada, bio je Princ Nikola Petrović, ali i cijelo Cetinje.
- Odavno se kod nas priča o ekologiji...
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Tako je, dvadeset godina! Projekat „Crna Gora ekološka država“,
ideja koju nijesmo tada razumjeli do kraja,
O osnovnim impresijama o Crnoj Gori i Cetinju, razgovarali smo
sa gospodinom Filipom Petitom, režiserom pomenute reportaže.
- Gospodine Petit, zašto ste odlučili da Cetinje bude sljedeći
grad u nizu svjetskih gradova koje upoznajete i opisujete u
svojim reportažama?
FILIP PETIT: Poznajem Crnu Goru odavno. Ja znam mnogo o vašoj zemlji već čitavih 40 godina. Prvi put sam došao kao student,
vidio sam Kotor, Perast, na kratko i Cetinje. I kasnije sam imao
običaj dolaziti. Sada smo, moji kolege i ja, odlučili da snimimo
reportažu o Cetinju, zbog zanimljivih i interesantnih podataka,
zbog vrijednosti istorijskih artefakata, zbog likovnog bogatstva,
zbog svih vaših umjetnika. To nam se učinilo još boljom idejom
zbog gospodina Nikole Petrovića, koji suvereno vlada svime što
Cetinje ima i nudi. Ne samo u turističkom smislu. A i – rijetko
se dešava da vam o značaju i vrijednostima, običajima, kulturi
i značaju jednog grada govori ni manje ni više nego prijestolonasljednik dinastije za čije je vladavine grad doživio najveći kulturno-ekonomski uspon. Na Cetinje sam dolazio i zbog Bijenala,
i imaće naši slušaoci što da čuju.
nama i razumjeti se. To je posebno važno
kada u obzir uzmemo đecu.
- Pomenuli ste Bijenale. Vi ste po profesiji
arhitekta, pa Vam je umjetnost, prirodom
stvari, vrlo bliska. Vjerujem i da ste upoznali brojne crnogorske umjetnike, ali,
uslovno rečeno, i običan svijet. Da li mislite da su umjetnici, intelektualci, mogli
učiniti više za ovu zemlju, afirmišući je u
svojim djelima, koristeći svoj autoritet,
boreći se za njena dobra, ili su za nju najviše učinili upravo oni koje podvodimo
pod „obične“ građane?
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: To je veoma teško
procjenjivati. Znate, umjetnici su „svijet za
sebe“ i oni nijesu dužni činiti ništa više do
108
Naša reportaža će govoriti i o ekonomskim uslovima, o političkim prilikama, ali i o prirodnom okruženju, ekološkim karakteristikama i fizičkom položaju grada. Nas zanima i pejzažna kultura
i mogućnosti pejzažne kulture, održivi razvoj i ono što činite u
tom cilju.
- Šta Vam se dopada ovdje, kod nas?
FILIP PETIT: Sigurno će vam svaki stranac reći da imate nevjerovatno lijepu prirodu, pa tako i ja. S tim što mi je, zaista, od
gradova najljepše Cetinje, a u pejzažu mi je najljepše Skadarsko
jezero. Otići na jezero i uživati u tišini, u miru, to je nešto posebno. Ja sam vam od onih ljudi koji svuda traže jela koja odišu originalnošću i tradicijom kraja u koji sam došao. Tako mi se i ovdje
u Crnoj Gori sviđaju vaša vina, odlična su, kao i pojedini sirevi,
posebno kozji. I, da ne zaboravim, sviđa mi se i pršuta!
ono što čine – njihova djela su afirmacija
Crne Gore i borba za nju. Sve ostale bitke
pripadaju upravo „običnim“ građanima,
a najbolji rezultati su, poput onoga na
Referendumu za nezavisnost, kad su i jedni
i drugi bili u, da tako kažem, istom stroju.
Inače, samo Bog može reći ko je u ovoj i
svakoj drugoj zemlji autentičan, pravi heroj. Ne možete sve u jedan paket, ali mislim
da nama ovdje u Crnoj Gori fali vizija. Ne
fali nam ni entuzijazma, ni želje, ni snage.
Ali, mi razmišljamo sada, o sadašnjem trenutku, bez imalo plana za budućnost. To je
kao da samo čekamo, pa što Bog da, ali ako
neko vikne: „Utakmica!“, mi ćemo svi polećet’ na stadion, a kako ćemo igrati, što će
ko raditi, što nam je cilj – ne znamo!
- To je, možda, stvar mentaliteta?
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Svakako. Ispričaću vam
jednu anegdotu: razgovaram sa cetinjskim
prijateljima upravo na sličnu temu; ja tvrdim da smo mi uvijek spremni samo nek
neko kaže „Skoči!“, pa čak i da treba sad do
Budve, nije nam teško; što, to je, kažem,
svega 40-50 minuta; moj prijatelj se slaže i
kaže: „Ma, stigli bi mi i za dvades’!“
- A što Vi vidite kao razvojnu šansu Crne
Gore? Što bi ona mogla ponuditi svijetu,
a što bi mogla učiniti onako, za sebe?
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Dopada mi se ovaj
drugi diopitanja – što učiniti za sebe? Crna
Gora ima, zaista, mnogo, mnogo uslova za
razvoj i za mnogo bolji i kvalitetniji život.
Ne treba trčati za tuđim slikama i maštati
pa je djelovala utopijski i preuranjeno, sada tek svuda u svijetu dobija svoju valorizaciju, a mi na istom. Ekološka država je
najbolji, najpametniji, najveći i najznačajniji
projekat današnjice, a nije ga smislio niko
drugi u svijetu do - mi! To je fantastično!
Ondašnju utopiju moramo pretvoriti u realnost i to je sve što nam treba. Ustari, sve
drugo je u kvalitetnom marketingu. Brinuti
o sebi i svojoj prirodi, zdravlju, zemlji... To je
ono što možemo pokazati svijetu, a da on
poželi i dođe...
bi, šireći znanje, od Crne Gore stvarali državu sa budućnošću. Jer, ja čvrsto vjerujem u
obrazovanje, u instituciju znanja i umijeća,
i mislim da je i to jedan od važnih zadataka
svake ozbiljne države. Laboratorije, istraživački instituti... - to nam treba jer bi ljudima
sa strane, naučnicima, istraživačima i sl, bilo
itekako atraktivno i lijepo živjeti i raditi ovdje, na miru i u prirodnim uslovima. Nove
tehnologije, eko-gradnja, eko-energija i
eko-sistemi, sve su to polja na kojima bi
mogli postići zavidne rezultate.
- Kao turisti...
- Moram Vas pitati da li ste dovoljno upoznali i sjever Crne Gore, jer dok ste govorili o ekologiji i razvoju eko-sistema,
pomislila sam baš na sjeverno prirodno
bogatstvo?
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: I kao turisti, ali i na
druge načine. Volio bih da vidim osnivanje
istraživačkih centara koji bi okupljali stručnjake raznih profila, koji bi željeli da žive
ovdje, prenose svoja znanja, a na taj način
Fondacija Petrović Njegoš
Ujediniti lijepe
i važne stvari
O prvim akcijama, realizovanim tokom juna, kao i o planovima
za budući period, razgovarali smo sa Milicom Perišić, poslovnim
sekretarom Fondacije Petrović Njegoš.
- Koja su polja aktivnosti Fonadacije?
MILICA: Naša Fondacija, od početka djeluje u tri segmenta:
pomoć ugroženom stanovništvu (humanitarne akcije i zdravstvo), razvoj znanja (istraživanja, kultura, obrazovanje, edukacija kadrova) i zaštita životne sredine. Već smo, nakon identifikacije potreba najugroženijih, u Beranama i Rožajama, zatim u
Andrijevici i Plavu, proljetos sproveli akciju podjele humanitarnih paketa. Za tamošnje stanovništvo bilo je vrlo značajno što
je akcijom rukovodio sam Princ Nikola Petrović. Tokom juna
smo realizovali i akciju „Donacije Fondacije Petrović Njegoš i
Prijestonice Cetinje”, brinući o ugroženim građanima prijestonice, posebno kroz potrebe djece.
- Međutim, time se ne iscrpljuju svi humanitarni planovi
Fondacije?
MILICA: Naravno. Počeli smo i program u domenu zdravstva „Pomoć ženama”, i tim povodom potpisan je Memorandum o
saradnji sa privatnom klinikom Codra Hospital, a cilj nam je da
mladim ženama, koje su imale zdravstvenih problema, pružimo
pomoć, koja će im omogućiti da sa samopuzdanjem nastave
svoje živote.
- Fondacija Petrović Njegoš, izgleda, umije da poveže i ujedini više lijepih stvari?
MILICA: Zaista se trudimo da bude tako. Na primjer, na Cetinju
smo, baš u povodu akcije pomoći građanima prijestonice, organizovali koncert studenata Akademije sa kojima je nastupio
sam princ Nikola Petrović. A ti mladi ljudi, Mia Obrenović, Igor
Pejović i Novak Pavličić, ovog ljeta će učestvovati u ljetnjoj
školi za muzičke talente, u Banjer de Bigoru, Gornji Pirineji, u
Francuskoj, što će finansirati upravo Fondacija Petrović Njegoš.
109
Jedan
čaroban
dan
Zamislite i opišite jedan lijepi dan u
Crnoj Gori; kako bi on izgledao?
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Paaa, ovako:
trebalo bi se probuditi pred samu
zoru neđe u Kotoru, gledati nebo i
njegove boje; potom pješke krenuti
ka Cetinju, serpentinama, pa preko
Njeguša (ne bi taj put trajao predugo), usput pomalo odmarati i, ako
bude sreće, ipak autostopom doći do
prijestonice; na Cetinju vidjeti Dvor,
poslanstva, muzeje, manastir, a onda
se, pred noć, vratiti na more; plivati dok zalazi sunce, a kad već uhvati
noć... e, to nije moje da kažem kako
noć provesti...
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Kako da ne; upravo
sam proljetos bio i u Rožajama, Beranama,
Plavu, Andrijevici. Bio sam zapanjen! Toliko
mogućnosti, toliko očaravajuće ljepote, toliko Bog dao, a ljudi ne uzeli ništa! Svi gledaju u grad, i to u sami centar, a oko njih
nebrojeno, nesagledivo blago. Gledam
Andrijevicu, najsiromašniju opštinu u Crnoj
Gori, a nigdje nije tako lijepo! Iz razgovora
sa tamošnjim ljudima, shvatio sam da se
oni žale kako država ne brine za njih, kako
su ostavljeni i prepušteni sebi. Pogrešan
stav. Jer, nema bolje pozicije nego da sâm
rješavaš i brineš o svojim prioritetima. Ima
ona izreka: „Pomozi sebi, pa će ti i Bog pomoći.“ I tačna je! Tako da niko ko ima onakvu zemlju, ne smije da se požali kako je
siromašan i kako nema što da radi.
- Kad ste već kod izreka, da Vas pitam i za
stihove. Ovo je tipično „crnogorsko pitanje“: znate li što od Njegoša napamet, ili,
bliže, od kralja Nikole?
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Hahaha... Čitao sam
sve što je prevedeno na francuski, ali, moram vam reći da je utisak o djelu Njegoša,
a i kralja Nikole, drugačiji kada se to isto
pročita na izvornom jeziku. Naučivši cr110
APART HOTEL TRE CANNE
BUDVA- CRNA GORA
Energy efficient and environmentaly friendly project with generated energy saving during the
building exploitation- 68% of energy balance compearing to the building designed in the classical consumption and construction systems.
nogorski, mogao sam tako i da čitam ono
što su pisali. Pa ću zato reći da poznajem
Njegoševo djelo...
- Pa, onda, dajte neki stih...
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: „Neka bude što biti ne
može!“
- E, sad ću ja da se smijem! Baš to?
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Da: „Neka bude što biti
ne može“, ali u kontekstu ove naše priče o
Crnoj Gori! Neka bude sve ono za što još
ne vidimo da smo u mogućnosti ostvariti,
i ne znamo da za to imamo snage! Odoljeli
smo, vjekovima, ratovima, odoljeli smo i
ovom posljednjem ratu, nijesmo se ojadili
kao drugi u bivšoj Jugoslaviji, uspjeli smo i
na Referendumu, pa što onda, ne bi i sada
u ovom vremenu?
- Ne preostaje mi ništa drugo nego da
dodam: „Pregaocu Bog daje mahove“!
PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Slažem se.
Real Estate Sales & Marketing
+382 69 019 999; +382 69 019 989;
e-mail: [email protected];
www.trecanne.me
INTERVIEW – His Majesty Prince Nikola II Petrović Njegoš
Let it be what
cannot be!
By: Nada Bukilić • Photo: Anes Lekić
In summertime, in Cetinje,
everything is especially beautiful: streets under blooming,
fragrant linden-trees, young
people amused by their own
jokes and laughter, benches
on square, small terraces
of cafes… However, Cetnje
promenade radiates in a
special way because of the
presence of Prince Nikola
Petrović – people, simply love
that they are able to meet him
on their promenades, to have
a coffee with him, knowing
that – in his heart, just as in
theirs, Cetinje is the center of
Universe
S
ince last year, when he officially got
the status of crown prince, that is,
everything that comes with that
status, Prince Nikola Petrović is coming to
Montenegro, his home, convinced that, although a bit late, his homeland embraced
him with true respect. A day we choose
for interview was indeed a crowded one,
because, there are some duties that cannot, and must not be missed. Some French
journalists were making a report about the
capital of small Balkan country, and Prince
Nikola was their host, advisor, friend, partner in conversations and guide through
ethnic treasure of old town, through its
museums, galleries, old buildings; as well
as very conscientious interpreter of his-
112
toric circumstances in which this town was
made, lived, and thus became the capital,
for which we, sometimes as a joke, but
more often seriously, say – Cetinje, where
all our sacred things are! We “stole” Prince
from our French colleagues only when the
day began to fade, although we have been
chasing our chance for hours. Finally, the
French were sipping red wine after lunch,
on the terrace of a restaurant, in the shade
of ancient, tall trees, and we talked. Solidly
mastered Montenegrin, with admixtures
of French, a bit of mimicry, a few gestures
and smiles – and we understood each other perfectly!
- What is the reason this time for Your
visit to Cetinje?
idea to make a report about Cetinje is
very important – I will be happy to have
French audience hear so many nice and
significant things about this town. We are
visiting museums and galleries, I tell them
everything I myself know about the capital, but also, I introduce them to interesting persons from Montenegrin artistic
and public scene, so they could hear from
them, as much relevant data about Cetinje
as possible. The second reason is activity of
Foundation Petrović Njegoš – the help we,
together with municipality of Cetinje, organized for the most socially impaired cocitizens, and the third: I am performing on
a concert! And motive to come is always
the same – Cetinje, and Montenegro, and
I do not need other.
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: There were three reasons for my coming: I brought my friends
from France over, journalist crew of “Radio
France Culture”, because I think that their
- You know, I always wanted to find out,
what a man like Yourself, who grew up
in a country of such a great culture, finds
interesting about us, and by that I do not
- Your Majesty, how do You feel now in
Montenegro?
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: I have always felt
good in Montenegro. Only now, I have a
place to come to, without being burden
to anyone, without exposing myself to a
feeling I had before…almost as if I were a
stranger.
mean just pure exotics; what do You find
most beautiful about Montenegro?
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: First of all – the nature. The first time I came here, the nature
I saw completely fascinated me. What also
fascinates me about Montenegro, is that
such a small nation managed to survive
in Balkan crossroad for so many centuries,
and not only because of constant fight,
but also because of the way this nation
succeeded in surviving such conditions –
those barren cliffs, measureless stone… I
also love specific spirit of Montenegrin man
– a kind of spirit that probably saved him,
but the spirit itself was born and evolved
into such a power and into such specificity, just because of the circumstances, and
surrounding nature. Montenegro resembles other Mediterranean countries, Crete,
Sicily, Sardinia, however, unlike them,
Montenegro has indescribable fields, lakes,
mountains, and plenty of fertile land. Such
mixture is truly fascinating.
- I am glad that You were not disappointed…
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: Never. Although, it
was quite hard for me in last ten years, but
for all other reasons – the hesitation and
deliberation, the long-lasting decisionmaking about my status, all of that was
quite exhausting…
- Did Your family have understanding for
You and Your longing for Montenegro?
Have Your children ever told You to give
up on Montenegro?
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: No, never, quite the
contrary. Probably because they themselves fell in love with Montenegro. They
saw how difficult that period was for me
(2004, 2005 until 2011) and how badly
I took abolition of Biennale and some
other things. However…nothing of that
affected Montenegro itself. My daughter
113
even made her graduation film here, in
Montenegro, “occupied” with the specificities that she discovered.
reproach she got from Montenegrins
once she was strict with Your son Boris…
- I have met Your Altinaj, and I know
that she was interested in Montenegrin
woman and mourning clothes as a phenomenon connected to our women, all
widowed at a young age. However, those
eyes of hers – tell me, am I imagining
out of some national romanticism, or are
those eyes of a queen…
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: Yes, it was funny.
Not only was she yelling at a prince, it was
a male child also! I am just joking. Frans
had Moroccan origin, so she came from
a country where the difference between
sexes was even more drastic; therefore, she
found that to be just cute, funny, but not
surprising. I have also got familiar with the
customs in Morocco and was not at least
surprised when I came to Montenegro
and noticed such distinction, which is
not so much pointed against the women
themselves, as it is glorifying a man, and
putting him on some imaginary, high pedestal. Moreover, when I got acquainted
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: Of Milena? Exactly
her eyes! Altinaj herself noticed that, as
well as Frans, my late wife.
- I did not want to mention Your wife, to
sadden You, but I know her story about
with Montenegrin customs closer, I realized what all Montenegrins have already
known: true strength, the persistent one,
which never gives up, and which gave
birth to and preserved this nation, is
Montenegrin woman. Building their own
world, different from macho one, different
from this male, unquestionable position,
Montenegrin women succeeded in raising
above everything that was objective and
visible, and created true, essential base of
life, and the foundation of this nation. My
wife has also seen that, and she used to
say: “Montenegrins are the best husbands”,
because she perceived that alleged crudeness and arrogance, as well as the freedom
men were enjoying, were just to the extent
that their noble, wise wives allowed.
Guests from France
- I very much like each of those observations of Yours. Could You, please, continue.
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: No, this is completely serious judgment. I even believe that
women emancipated and adapted to past
and modern conditions more easily. We
love to play heroes, to brag, to compete. It
is wisdom to find a balance, to be on the
same wavelength and understand each
other. It is of utmost importance when we
consider children.
- You mentioned Biennale. You are an
architect by vocation, so art is, naturally,
very close to You. I believe that You met
numerous Montenegrin artists, but also
so-called “ordinary” people. Do You think
that artists and intellectuals could have
done more for this country, by affirm-
ing it in their work, using their authority,
fighting for its prosperity, or the most
was done by those who we usually call
“ordinary” citizens?
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: It is very hard to
estimate. You know, artists are “in their
own world” and they are not obliged to
do anything more than what they are already doing – their work is affirmation of
Montenegro and fight for it. All the other
fights belong to those “ordinary” citizens,
and the best results are those like on
Referendum for independence, when
both were, so to say, on the same side.
Otherwise, only God can tell who is authentic in this, and every other, country,
who is the true hero. You cannot get all
in one package, but I think that here, in
Montenegro, we are lacking a vision. We
Towns of the world: Cetinje
Foundation
Petrović Njegoš
The crew of French national radio, France Culture, was making a
report about Cetinje and its citizens, in the middle of June. Thus,
Montenegrin capital was classified by this French radio, among
most interesting “Towns of the world”, which is the title of the
show as well. Guests from France stayed in Montenegro for one
week, in order to make this report, and their host and a kind of
guide through the history and culture of the town, was Prince
Nikola Petrović, together with entire population of Cetinje.
Unite nice
and important
things
We talked to Mr. Fillip Petit, the director of the report, about his
first impressions about Montenegro and Cetinje.
About first activities, realized during June, as well as about future plans, we talked to Mrs. Milica Perišić, business secretary of
Foundation Petrović Njegoš.
- Mr. Petit, what made you decide to put Cetinje among
towns, that you get to know and describe in your reports all
over the world?
FILIP PETIT: I met Montenegro a long time ago. I have known
a lot about your country for 40 years already. The first time I
came, I was a student, and I visited Kotor, Perast, shortly even
Cetinje. I also used to come here in later years. Now my colleagues and I, decided to make a report about Cetinje, because of
its interesting historical data, value of historical exponents, artistic abundance, and all your artists. It seemed, as even better
idea because of Mr. Nikola Petrović, who confidently rules with
all that Cetinje has to offer. Not only in tourist sense. Moreover
– rarely happens to have a crown prince personally, telling you
about significance and values, customs, culture and importance of a town, not to mention that he is a member of dynasty
during whose time this town flourished in cultural and economic sense. I also visited Cetinje to see Biennial, so our listeners
will have a lot to hear.
114
Our report will also talk about economic conditions, political
climate, as well as of natural environment, ecological characteristics and physical position of the town. We are interested in
landscape culture and its possibilities, sustainable development
and the steps you take in that direction.
- What is that you like about us?
FILIP PETIT: Surely, every foreigner will tell you how beautiful
nature you have, so I will not be an exception. Although, I would pick out Cetinje as most beautiful town, and Skadar Lake,
in the sense of landscape. To go to a lake and enjoy the silence
and peace - that is something special. I belong to sort of people
who, wherever they go, search for dishes that represent originality and tradition of the country I came to. So in Montenegro,
I like wine, it is excellent, as well as certain kinds of cheese, especially goat cheese. I also must not forget to mention, I love
Montenegrin prosciuto!
- Which fields of activity does the Foundation cover?
MILICA: From the beginning, our Foundation acts in three segments: aid for socially impaired population (humanitarian actions and health department), development of knowledge (researches, culture, education, training of staff ) and preservation of
environment. We have already this spring, after identifying the
needs of the most socially impaired ones, in Berane and Rožaje,
and then in Andrijevica and Plav, conducted an action where
we shared humanitarian packages. For population living there,
it was truly significant to have Prince Nikola Petrović himself
coordinating an action. During June, we have realized an activity “Donations of Foundation Petrović Njegoš and of Capital
Cetinje”, taking care of impaired citizens of the capital, especially through the needs of children.
- However, the Foundation does not end its humanitarian
plans there, does it?
have enough enthusiasm, desire, strength.
However, we are only focusing on now, on
present moment, without any plans for the
future. It is as almost as if we are only waiting for anything that God would give us,
but if someone cries out:” The game!”, we
will all rush into stadium, and what will we
play, who will do what, what is our goal –
we do not know!
- Maybe that is a matter of mentality?
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: It surely is. I will tell
you an anecdote: I had a conversation with
a friend from Cetinje on a similar subject; I
claimed that we are always ready, all one
has to say is:“ Jump!”, even if we have to go
to Budva right now, we do not find that
to be a problem; why would it be, it takes
only 40 – 50 minutes; my friend agreed
MILICA: Of course, it does not. We have also started a health
program – “Help for women”, and on that occasion, signed a
Memorandum about cooperation with private clinic Codra
Hospital, having as an objective help for young women, who
had some health issues, which will enable them to confidently
continue with their lives.
- It seems that the Foundation Petrović Njegoš knows how to
connect and unite several good things?
MILICA: We honestly try to keep it that way. For example, in
Cetinje, on the account of action to help capital’s citizens,
we organized concert on which the Prince Nikola Petrović
personally showed up. In addition, those young people,
Mia Obrenović, Igor Pejović and Novak Pavličić, this summer
will attend summer school for music talents in Banjer de
Bigor, Upper Pirinei, in France, which will be also financed by
Foundation Petrović Njegoš.
115
A magical day
- Imagine and describe, how would one magical day in Montenegro look like?
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: Well, like this: you should wake up before dawn somewhere in
Kotor, watch the sky and its colours; then go to Cetinje on foot, on serpentines, over
Njeguši (that trip would not take too long), rest occasionally along the way, and, if
you are lucky, come to Capital by hitch-hiking; in Cetinje visit the Palace, embassies,
museums, the monastery, and then, in the evening, return to the seaside; swim while sun goes down, and when the night falls…well, you do not need me to tell you
how to spend the night…
and added:” Oh, we could get there in 20
minutes!”
- What do You see as developmental
chance for Montenegro? What Montenegro could offer to a world and what
could be done just for ourselves?
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: I like the other part
of your question – what could be done
for ourselves? Indeed, Montenegro has so
many conditions for development, and
for much better and more quality life. We
should not chase others’ images and fantasize about some “Americas”, we should
dream our own dream, and do everything
to make that dream come true. Moreover, I
am afraid; we still cannot detach ourselves
from dreaming about things that were
relevant in the world some ten years ago.
Therefore, we wish for what the world has
already outgrown, or even declared undesirable. On the contrary, a good foundation
and our great advantage, is exactly the fact
that we are not industrialized, that we have
so much fertile land, with great agricultural
potential. Now, when there is demand for
natural product, organic food, clear air,
clean water, now is our time. The fact that
we, basically, would start from the zero
point, is actually, our great advantage.
- We have been talking about ecology
here for a long time…
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: You are right, for
twenty years! The project “Montenegro
ecological country”, an idea we did not
fully understand at that time, so it seemed
premature and utopist, only now all over
the world, gets its valorization, and we are
stagnating. Ecological country is the best,
the smartest, the biggest and the most
important project of today’s world, cre116
ated by no one else but – us! It is fantastic!
Utopia from that time must be transferred
into reality, and that is all we need. As a
matter of fact, everything else is question
of quality advertising. To take care of ourselves, our nature, health, land… That is
what we can show to the world, and make
the world wish to come here…
- As tourists…
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: As tourists, but also
in other ways. I wish to see founding of research centers that would gather experts
from various fields, experts who would live
here, transferred their knowledge, and in
that way, by expanding the knowledge,
make Montenegro a country that has a future. Because, I firmly believe in education,
in institution of knowledge and skill, and I
think that it is one of most important tasks
for every serious country. Laboratories, research institutes…- that is what we need,
because people from abroad, scientists,
researchers, and others, would be attracted to comfortably live and work here, in
peace and in natural environment. New
technologies, eco-building, eco-energy
and eco-systems, are all fields in which we
could accomplish impressive results.
- I must ask You if You are fully familiar with north of Montenegro, because
while You were talking about ecology
and development of eco-systems, I was
thinking exactly about our north natural
wealth?
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: Of course, I am; just
last spring I visited Rožaje, Berane, Plav,
Andrijevica. I was amazed! So many opportunities, such delightful beauty, God
gave so much, and people took nothing!
All their eyes fixated on town, on the very
center, and such immense, huge richness. I
observed Andrijevica, the poorest municipality in Montenegro, and there is no such
beauty as in Andrijevica! From the conversations with people from there, I realized
that they are complaining that the country does not take care of them, that they
are left alone to their own destiny. That is a
wrong attitude. Because, there is no better
position for a man, than to take care of his
own priorities by himself. There is a saying:”
Help yourself and God will also help.” And
it is so true! Therefore, no one who owns
such a land must complain that he is poor
and has no job.
- Speaking of sayings, I also have to
ask You about verses. This is typical
“Montenegrin question”: do You know
any verses by Njegoš by heart, or closer,
by king Nikola?
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: Hahaha…I read all
that was translated into French, however,
I must admit that the impressions about
work of Njegoš, and of king Nikola, are different when you read those in native language. Learning Montenegrin enabled me
to read what they wrote. That is why I will
only say that I am familiar with the work of
Njegoš…
- Then, tell me a verse…
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: “Let it be what cannot be!”
- Now, it is my turn to laugh! Particularly
those?
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: Yes. “Let it be what
cannot be”, but in context of our story
about Montenegro! Let it happen all that
we still cannot see that we are able for, and
not aware that we are strong enough for!
For centuries, we resisted wars, we resisted
the last war, we did not afflict ourselves
like others from former Yugoslavia, and we
succeeded on Referendum, so, why would
not we succeed now, in this time?
- I have nothing left to add then: “God
himself helps that who strives!”
PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: I agree.
Rukomet - svi Za Crnu Goru!
1990.
godište
GODINA LAVLJEG
SRCA
Selektor francuske reprezentacije,
nakon poraza od Crne Gore, i to u
utakmici koja nije imala rezultatski
značaj (oba tima su već osigurala
plasman na OI), održao je sastanak
u devet časova sa svojim igračicama.
Počeo je kritikom:
- Sramota! Nadmudrila vas je djevojka koja je 1990. godište!?!
Riječ je o Mileni Knežević, srednjem
beku naše reprezentacije. Ukrala je
„živu” loptu u samom finišu, a na terenu su bile samo četiri naše igračice!
Tekst: Ana Marković
Nebo više nije granica.
Preletjele su, odskočile, i već
su u Londonu. Naše, sjajne,
blistave zvijezde! Kao musketari odane su jedna drugoj. Žive za rukomet, vole
borbu, ne posustaju, uživaju
u golovima, ne skrivaju emocije koje ih nose dok ih prati
huk sa navijačkih tribina,
svaku asistenciju proslavljaju uzdignutim pesnicama.
One su naš veliki ponos. One
su – lavice!
R
ukometašice Crne Gore će, prvi put
u istoriji, igrati na Olimpijskim igrama! Nedavno su u Lionu, na kvalifikacionom turniru za OI, demonstrirale silu
hrabrih srca, „razbile” Japan, Rumuniju i domaćina Francusku. Idemo u London!
Crna Gora je mlada država, i ovo je prvi put
da na olimpijskim igrama imamo i rukometašice. U njih polažemo veliku nadu, kao i u
naše vaterpoliste i ostale sportiste, jer, poput svih nacija na svijetu, želimo čuti našu
himnu, vidjeti podignutu našu zastavu i želimo osjetiti i proslaviti radost najboljih! Ali,
dovde nije bilo lako stići.
Šta se sve dešavalo prije i poslije Liona,
jesu li naše rukometašice mogle mirno
zaspati čekajući mečeve, kakve su tajne
skrivali njihovi sastanci, razgovori, planovi?
118
- Radovale smo se svakoj pobjedi, maštale,
onako među nama, šta će biti kada osvojimo sve što se mogne, ali nijesmo to javno iznosile. Jer, to su one naše male, slatke
stvari, sportske nade koje se ne dijele sa
javnošću unaprijed – kaže Bojana Popović,
najbolja rukometašica i spiritus movens
ovog trijumfa.
Ovo je treći front naše velike borbe. Uspjele
smo, iako moja Maja (Maja Savić, kapiten) i
ja, na prvim pripremama na Kopaoniku,
jedva da smo se mogle popeti pješke do
trećeg sprata. Bile smo umorne, samljevene, ali, eto, našle smo način da prvo pobijedimo sebe, a onda i sve drugo.
Zanimljivo je da Bojana Popović, po
mnogima najbolja rukometašica svijeta,
nikada nije bila na Olimpijadi. Kao da je
zadovoljena neka kosmička pravda - sada će sa reprezentacijom Crne Gore imati
priliku da igra pod sjajem olimpijskih vatri.
- Nema to veze sa pravdom, već kako se
kome „poklopi”. Mlađima se poklopilo,
osvojile su prije ovoga, sa Budućnošću, i
trofej Lige šampiona. Marina, Suzana i sve
ostale - kao od šale! Nijesu morale da čekaju dugo, poput Maje i mene, i srećna sam
zbog njih. E, sad, rasplakala sam se, obje
smo plakale, jer ovo što se desilo, na kraju je naše karijere. Ustvari, u trenutku kada
znamo: možemo otići jednom u životu ili
nikad! Srećne smo što smo našim navijačima i svima u Crnoj Gori, koji su strepili
zajedno sa nama, koji su sa tremom i sa
nadom gledali svaki naš meč, pratili svaki
korak, omogućili ovu sportsku radost. I što
smo baš mi ostvarile veliki uspjeh za Crnu
Goru.
Dani, još uvijek, prolaze u jakim emocija-
ma. Bojana kaže da im utisci ne daju snu
na oči. Još se „vrte filmovi” u glavama, još
se razmišlja da li je sve java ili san. Sport je
jedna od ključnih poveznica sa svijetom –
ako znate za sportske uspjehe neke zemlje,
odmah znate i sve o njoj, makar ne umjeli
da je nađete na geografskoj karti. Logično
je da zemlje, velike i po površini i po broju
stanovnika, imaju vrijedne sportske rezultate, jer, kvantitet omogućava kvalitet. Ali,
ono što je najljepše u sportu upravo je to
što on počiva, prije svega, na individualnoj
motivaciji i snazi, na samopregornom radu
pojedinaca, na njihovoj spremnosti da se
liše mnogo čega zarad rezultata koji mogu,
ali i ne moraju doći. I kada, nakon svega,
neko takav, omeđen skromnim uslovima
svoje zemlje, ograđen hiljadama problema, na terenu suočen sa velikim sportskim
silama, ne poklekne, već naprotiv krene i
ide uvijek i samo naprijed – e, onda ga to
učini velikim sportistom i neprikosnovenim autoritetom pred svim navijačima u
domovini i ljubiteljima sporta u svijetu! Ili,
kako reče pjesnik: „Boj ne bije svijetlo oružje, već boj bije srce u junaka.” Junakinje
naših dana su rukometašice koje su silno
vjerovale u uspjeh. Nisu poklekle ni pred
moćnim Francuskinjama, niko ih nije ni
uplašio. Naše djevojke su nam dale sve što
sport može dati: uzbuđenje, radost, sreću,
ponos! Omogućile su nam važno mjesto u
velikoj sportskoj porodici naroda.
Bojana Popović tvrdi da na neuspjeh nijesu ni pomišljale:
- Nikad nismo izgovorile ako, već smo govorile i razmišljale: kada bude, kad se desi,
što je bilo bitno, jer je značilo da se ekipa
bori bez straha. Tako je bilo u Ligi šampiona, tako i sada u borbi za odlazak na
Olimpijadu. Govorile smo: „Kada se završi
kvalifikacioni turnir, kada krenemo u pripreme za Olimpijadu, kada dođe 25. jun...”
Rasle su jednako sa pobjedama i porazima.
Čini se da je Brazil, kada su krajem prošle
godine na Svjetskom prvenstvu podbacile,
bio presudan. Popović objašnjava:
- Ne dam na sebe. Ne dam. Taj inat, drskost,
želja, zajedništvo su nas održali. Znate i sami kako i na koji način smo igrale kroz Ligu
šampiona, kako smo u polufinalu, pričam
o klupskom uspjehu Budućnosti, izbacile
norveški Larvik, a tek u finalu...
Maja Savić se slaže sa Bojanom da je takav
stav sačuvao energiju i snagu za dodatne
napore i nove uspjehe. (Popović je osvojila
šest trofeja Lige šampiona, a Savić tri.) Sada
će njih dvije, sa ostalim djevojkama, zajedno na Olimpijadu:
- Van sebe sam kada pomislim na Igre, kaže
Maja, a kako stalno na to i mislim – stalno
sam van sebe! Dočekale smo ih, a do prije
Ništa bez Dragana!
Dragan Adžić, samozatajni trener i selektor naših rukometašica, čovjek koji povisi
glas samo kad traži tajm aut, strpljiv u svom radu, nenametljiv i, pred javnosti, gotovo plah, stožer je tima koji pobjeđuje gdje god bije bitku. Stručno i savjesno rukovođenje timom, čuvanje igračica od pretjeranog uplitanja javnosti u njihov rad,
istovremeno iskreno zalaganje da im se obezbijede što bolji uslovi i da ništa iz spoljnjeg svijeta ne pomuti viziju koja je pred njima, doveo je ove djevojke pred vrata
sportskog raja. Idu na Olimpijadu 2012, što je i za njega, kao i za djevojke, vrhunac
dosadašnje karijere. Hoće li djevojke svog selektora sa velike arene iznijeti na štitu
ili sa štitom, vidjećemo. A ono što već znamo jeste da se bez straha ide naprijed,
da su i olimpijske igre, ipak, samo igre i da su uspješne i prave sportske, samo kad
pobjeđuju zaista najbolji! To je ono što je Adžić naučio svoj tim. Vjerujemo u Adžića,
vjerujemo u naše djevojke i čekamo prvi plamen olimpijske vatre!
119
godinu nijesam pomišljala da mi se može
nešto ovako ostvariti. Mislila sam da ću završiti karijeru bez tog iskustva.
Kada se govori o našoj rukometnoj reprezentaciji i kada se tumači njen uspjeh, niko
ne pominje sportsku sreću. Sreća, ta imaginarna boginja što bdije nad sportistima,
zaštitnica snova o peharima i medaljama,
nije ovdje imala posla.
- Krv, suze i znoj! To ti je naš usud, tako
smo uspjele, kaže Maja. Ali, srećna jesam.
Od starta smo pokazale šta želimo, a ne bi
uspjele bez jedinstva u ekipi.
Tako o svom uspjehu govore najiskusnije,
najbolje rukometašice, žene – legende.
Inače, obje su udate, i Maja ima kćerku koja
igra za danski Viborg! Ne smeta im što ih
prepoznaju na ulici, u lokalima, na aerodro120
mima i ne samo kod nas. U Parizu, prošle
godine, dok su čekale na aerodromu, prišla im je službenica i pitala: „Montenegro?
Rukomet? Molim vas, da li je sa vama
Bojana Popović? ”
No, vrijeme neumitno prolazi. Proći će i
Majino i Bojanino sportsko vrijeme. Ali, ono
što su postigle je neprolazno. Na mladima
svijet ostaje, pa će i klupski i reprezentativni rad ostati na Mileni, Suzani, Marini,
Majdi, Radi, Joki...
Ima ih i bilo bi pogrešno izdvajati pojedine. One su tim, nepobjedivi tim, i samo to
im je važno. Jer, zajedno su trčale, trenirale,
izgarale; odlučno brinule jedna o drugoj,
savjesno čuvale jedna drugu i hrabrile.
Vrijeme je da se zajedno i raduju. Ovo je
vrijeme rukometa, najboljeg u Evropi, među najboljima u svijetu – vrijeme lavljeg
Grupa A
Poslije kvalifikacija u Lionu, crnogorske rukometašice su, preko Pariza,
doputovale u London. Pobijedile su
Veliku Britaniju, u pretposljednjem
meču kvalifikacija za Evropsko prvenstvo. Tu su sačekale i žrijeb za
Olimpijske igre: za što bolji plasman
vodiće borbu u grupi A: Crna Gora,
Rusija, Hrvatska, Velika Britanija,
Brazil, Angola.
srca! A naša srca će da biju jače od svih londonskih satova kad budemo davali golove,
kad budemo slavili pobjede i kad se nad
postoljem pobjednika zavijori zastava Crne
Gore! Srećno!
Handball – ALL for Montenegro!
YEAR OF LION’S
HEART
By: Ana Marković
M
ontenegrin female handball
players, for the first time in history, will participate in Olympic
Games! They have recently demonstrated,
in Lion, on qualification tournament for
the Olympic Games, the force of “brave
hearts”, and “smashed” Japan, Romania and
the host, France. We are going to London!
Montenegro is young country, and this is
the first time that we have female handball
players in the Olympic Games. We have
great hopes for them, as well as for our water polo players and all other sportsmen,
because, just like every other nation in the
122
world, we wish to hear our hymn, see our
flag raised, and feel and celebrate the joy
of the best! Nevertheless, coming this far
was not easy at all.
What was happening before and after
Lion, could our girls sleep peacefully awaiting for matches, what secrets held their
meetings, talks, plans?
“Each victory made us happy, we dreamed,
just among ourselves, what would happen when we win everything there is to
win, but we never talked publicly about it.
Because, those are all private, small, sweet,
sport hopes that are never shared with public in advance”, says Bojana Popović, the
best handball player and spiritus movens
of this triumph.
“This is the third front of our great battle.
We made it, although my Maja (Maja Savić,
capitain) and I could barely climb the third
floor on first preparations on Kopaonik. We
were tired, washed out, but, as you see, we
have found the way to conquer ourselves,
and then everything else.”
It is interesting that Bojana Popović, in
many opinions, the best female team
handball player, has never been in the
Olympic Games. As fulfillment of some
cosmic justice – she will have an opportunity to play with Montenegrin representation under the flames of Olympic fire.
“I don’t think it has much to do with justice, it is just the way sometimes things
“fall into place”. The younger players had
luck, before this, they had won trophy
of Championship league with club
Budućnost. Marina, Suzana, and the other
girls – as if it was a joke! They did not have
to wait long, like Maja and me, and I am so
happy for them. And now, I started crying,
we both did, because what happened is at
the end of our careers. Actually, this happened in a moment when we knew: we
can go once in a lifetime, or never! We are
happy because we made our cheerers and
all the people in Montenegro, so happy,
knowing they were anxious together with
us, they watched every match with fright
and hope, followed every our step. And
we are happy that we are the ones who
achieved such a tremendous success for
Montenegro.”
Nothing without
Dragan!
Dragan Adžić, very private trainer and selector of our female handball team, a man
who raises his voice only when he wants time-out, patient in his work, reserved,
and in front of public eye, almost impulsive, is an axis of a team that wins wherever it plays. Practicing an expert and conscientious team leadership, protecting
the players from excessive meddling of public into their work, at the same time,
honestly intervening to provide the best possible conditions for the girls, and not
letting anything from outer world to blur their vision, brought these girls at the front
door of sport paradise. They are going to Olympic Games, which is for him, as well as
for the girls, the peak of entire so far career. Will the girls leave the great arena with
their selector “on the shield or with it”, remains to be seen. We already know that
they move forward without fear, that even Olympic Games are just games, and that
they are successful and truly sports-like, only when the best win! That is the lesson
Adžić taught his team. We believe in him, we believe in our girls, and we are waiting
for the first flame of the Olympic fire!
ble authority in front of all cheerers back
in homeland, and sport lovers around the
world! Or, as the great poet once wrote:“
Shiny weapon does not fight the battle,
the brave heart does.” Heroes of our days
are our handball players who so passionately believed in success. They did not yield
was in Champion’s league, and that is the
way now, in struggle to go to Olympic
Games. We were always saying: “When the
Qualification tournament is over, when we
start preparations for the Olympics, when
June 25 arrives…”
Days still go by fulfilled with strong emotions. Bojana says that all the impressions keep them awake at night. They still
“play the films” in their heads,
They grew equally with victostill wondering whether it is Sky is no longer the limit. They flew over,
ries and defeats. It seems that
dream or reality. Sports is one
Brazil, when they failed last
of the key connections to the jumped, and they are already in London. Our year on World championship,
world – if you are familiar with shiny, glowing stars! Devoted to each other
was decisive. Popović explains:
sport successes of certain co“I won’t let anyone defeat me.
untry, you immediately know like musketeers. They live for team handball;
I simply won’t. That spite, saeverything about that country, they love the fight, never backing out, enjoyuciness, desire, unity held us
although you might not be
up. You know how we played
ing the goals, not hiding emotions that carry
able to find it on a map. It is
on Championship league,
logical that countries, large by them while they hear their fans from cheerwhen we defeated Larvik from
number of people and by size, ing stands, celebrating each assistance with
Norway in semi-finale; I am
have significant sport results,
talking about success of club
because quantity enables qu- raised fists. They are our great pride. They
Budućnost, not to mention the
ality. However, the most bea- are – the lionesses!
finale…”
utiful thing about sports is the
fact that it is above all, based on individual in front of powerful French girls; no one Maja Savić agrees with Bojana that such
motivation and strength, on self-sacrificing could scare them off. Our girls gave us all attitude preserved their energy and
work of an individual, on his readiness to that sport can give: excitement, happine- strength for additional efforts and new
deprive himself from lot of things to get ss, and pride! They enabled us to become successes. (Popović won six trophies on
the results that might, or might not ever part of large sports family of all nations.
Champion’s League, and Savić three.) Now,
come. And when after all obstacles, limithe two of them, together with the rest of
ted by humble conditions in homeland, Bojana Popović claims that they did not the girls, are going to Olympic Games:
surrounded by thousands of problems, even consider the possibility of failing:
“I am out of my mind when I think about
faced with great sport forces on the field, “We never said if, but rather: when, Olympic Games”, says Maja, “And because I
one does not give up, but on the contrary, when it happens, which was very im- think about it all the time, I am constantly
goes forward constantly - that is what ma- portant, because it meant that the team out of my mind! We made it there, and just
kes one a great sportsman and undisputa- is fighting without fear. That is the way it about a year ago, I have never even thou123
ght that something like this could happen
to me. I thought that I would finish my career without experiencing the Games.”
When talking about our handball representation and analyzing its success, no one
even mentions sport luck. Luck, the imaginary goddess that guards the sportsmen,
and protects dreams about cups and medals, had nothing to do with this case.
“Blood, tears and sweat! That is our fate,
and that is how we made it”, says Maja. “But
I am happy. From the start we have shown
Group A
After the qualifications in Lion,
Montenegrin
handball
players,
through Paris, landed in London.
They defeated Great Britain in the
match before finale, in qualifications for European championship.
That is where they waited for lots for
Olympic Games: they will fight for
the best possible position in group
A: Montenegro, Russia, Croatia, Great
Britain, Brazil, Angola.
124
what we want, and without unity in the
team, we would never have made it.”
That is how the most experienced, the
best female handball players, women – legends, perceive their success. Otherwise,
they are both married, and Maja has a daughter who plays for Danish Viborg! They
don’t mind people recognizing them in
the street, in cafes, at airports, and not
only in our country. In Paris, last year, a female clerk approached them and asked:“
Montenegro? Handball? Please, can you
tell me is Bojana Popović with you?”
However, time passes relentlessly. Playing
days of Bojana and Maja will also pass.
Nevertheless, the success they achieved is
eternal. The world remains on young people, so the work in club and in representa-
tion will be left to Milena, Suzana, Marina,
Majda, Rada, Joka…
There are a lot of them, and it would not
be fair to mention just a few. They are a
team, and such team that cannot be defeated, and it is all that matters to them.
Because they ran, trained, were exhausted
together; determined to take care of each
other, conscientiously protected and encouraged each other. It is time for them
to celebrate together. This is the time of
handball, the best in Europe, among the
best in the world – the time of lion’s hearth! And our hearts will be stronger than all
London clocks when we start giving goals,
when we celebrate victories, and when we
see Montenegrin flag waving above the
winner’s stand! Good luck!
Born in 1990
Selector of French representation, after being defeated by Montenegro, in a match
that did not have the importance in result (both teams have already earned their
way to Olympic Games), held a meeting with his players at 9 o’clock. He started by
criticizing them:
“Shame on you! You were outsmarted by girl who was born in 1990!?!”
He was talking about Milena Knežević, the middle back of our representation. She
stole their ball at the very finish, and we had only four of our players in the field!
olimpijske igre 2012
Olimpijska magija
Tekst: Maja Milačić
„Život je nalik na Olimpijske igre: jedni trguju, drugi gledaju, treći se bore.” - Pitagora
Ove godine domaćin Olimpijskih igara je
kraljevski London, i nema sumnje da će
sve biti na kraljevskom nivou, kako i priliči
jednoj od najznačajnijih evropskih metropola.
O
limpijske igre su veličanstveno
višesportsko takmičenje koje
se održava svake četiri godine.
Nazivamo ih i Olimpijade, ali Olimpijadom
je u staroj Grčkoj nazivano razdoblje između dvaju Olimpijskih igara, pa tako završetkom Olimpijskih igara počinje jedna
Olimpijada, a završetkom te Olimpijade počinju sljedeće Olimpijske igre. Kad završe,
počinje slijedeća Olimpijada, itd. Ispravan i
službeni naziv nekih Olimpijskih igara, npr.
konkretno Igara 2004. godine u Atini glasi:
„Igre XXVIII. Olimpijade modernog doba”.
Te Igre, u Atini 2004. godine, ustvari nijesu
28. Olimpijske igre (od Atene 1896. godine,
do danas) koje su održane - nego „tek” 25.
126
To otuda što Igre VI., XII. i XIII. Olimpijade
modernog doba, koje su trebale biti održane u Berlinu 1916, Helsinkiju 1940. I
Londonu 1944, zbog Prvog pa Drugog
svjetskog rata, nisu ni održane.
Ispravno nazvane „Igre i Olimpijade”, tj. Prve
Olimpijske igre modernog doba (nisu imale prefiks ljetnje, jer tada još nije bilo pomena o potrebi održavanja posebnih, Zimskih
Olimpijskih igara), održane su 1896. godine
u Atini, i od tada se održavaju svake četiri
godine (osim u vrijeme svjetskih ratova).
Pošto se ubrzo ukazala potreba za jednako
kvalitetnim takmičenjima u zimskim sportovima, uskoro su održane i prve Zimske
Olimpijske igre u Shamoniju, Francuska,
1924. godine.
Zimske su se Olimpijske igre održavale takođe svake četiri godine, u istoj godini kad
i Ljetnje. Međutim, zbog obimnosti olimpijskog programa, ali i zbog zahtjeva moćnih TV kuća, odlučeno je da se razdvoje
termini održavanja Ljetnjih i Zimskih igara.
Oduvijek je san svakog sportiste da nastupi
na Olimpijskim igrama, ali, zbilja, to nije dovoljno. Treba stremiti najboljem, najvišem
mogućem, postati dio istorije kao pobjednik, postati idol i uzor drugima i širiti sportski i pobjednički duh.
Ono što je najvažnije za Crnu Goru je da će
je na Olimpijskim igrama, drugima na kojima učestvuje od obnove samostalnosti
2006. godine, predstavljati tridesetdvoje
sportista, u pet sportova (dva ekipna, tri
pojedinačna).
U atletici su olimpijsku normu ispunili
Marija Vuković, u skoku u vis (prva sportistkinja koja se popela na pobjedničko postolje u pojedinačnim sportovima
od obnove nezavisnosti 2006.), Danijel
Furtula, u bacanju diska, i sjajna Slađana
Perunović, u disciplini maraton.
Nikola Šaranović. Od sveg srca mu želimo
što više pogodaka u centar!
Naravno, tu su ,,the best of the best”: rukometašice i vaterpolisti, i upravo će u njih
biti uprte sve oči. U kvalifikacijama za OI bili
su silni, prosto su „oduvali” protivnike, što
nam daje za pravo da ih smatramo favoritima za medalju. Članovi i članice ovih dvaju
reprezentacija su jednovremeno i okosnice evropskih šampiona - vaterpolo kluba
Primorac i rukomentog kluba Budućnost.
Da nam nije važno samo
učestvovati, to smo odavno
pokazali…
Džudista Srđan Mrvaljević je odavno, kroz
prethodna svjetska takmičenja i vrhunske
rezultate, pokazao da ima talenat i kapacitet za sjajno olimpijsko odličje.
U streljaštvu, boje Crne Gore braniće
127
Olympic Games 2012
Olympic Magic
“Life resembles Olympic Games: ones trade, the others watch, the third fight.”- Pythagoras
Text: Maja Milačić
O
lympic Games are magnificent
multi-disciplinarian sports championship, held every fourth year.
We also call them The Olympics, however,
in ancient Greece, it was name for the period between two Olympic Games; so by
ending of the Olympic Games, begins one
Olympics, and by ending of that Olympics,
begin another Olympic Games.
After the Olympic Games are over, another
Olympics begins, and so on. Accurate
and official name of some of the Olympic
Games was, for example, Games from
2004 in Athens were named:” XXVIII Games
of the Olympics of modern age”. Those
Games in Athens from 2004, actually we-
128
role model and idol for others, and at spreading sport’s and winner’s spirit.
re not 28th Olympic Games (from Athena
in 1896 until today) that were held – they
are “just” 25th Games. That is because VI, XII
and XIII Games of the Olympics of modern
age, that were supposed to take place in
Berlin in 1916, Helsinki 1940 and London
1944, due to I, then II World War could not
be organized. By the exact name “Games
and the Olympics”, e.g. the First Olympic
Games of modern age (they still did not
have prefix summer, because in that time
no one even mentioned the need to organize special, Winter Olympic Games) they
were first held in 1896 in Athens, and ever
since have been organized every fourth
year (except in time of world wars). Soon,
there was a need for equally quality com-
petitions in winter sports, so first Winter
Olympic Games took place in Shamony,
France, in 1924.
Winter Olympic Games have also been
organized on every fourth year, the same
as Summer ones. However, due to extensiveness of Olympic program, and due
to requests of powerful TV houses, it has
been decided to separate the terms of
Summer and Winter Olympic Games.
Every sportsman dreams of performing on
Olympic Games, but in reality, the dream
itself is not enough. One should aim at the
best, the highest possible, at becoming a
part of history as a winner, at becoming a
This year, the host of Olympic Games is
royal London, and there is no doubt that
everything will be on royal level, as becomes to one of the most important
European metropolis.
The most important thing for Montenegro,
is that on these Olympic Games, the second ones Montenegro is taking part on,
since 2006 and renewal of its independence, thirty-two sportsmen from five different sports (two team and three individual)
will be representing it.
In athletics, Marija Vuković qualified for
Olympic standard, in discipline high jump
(she was the first sports player who climbed the winner’s stand in individual sports
since renewal of independence in 2006),
Danijel Furtula, in disk throwing, and great
Slađana Perunović in the discipline of marathon.
Judist Srđan Mrvaljević showed us long
time ago, through previous world championships and top results, that he indisputably possesses talent and capacity for
shining Olympic medal.
In discipline of archery, Nikola Šaranović
will defend colours of Montenegro. We
wish him as many hits to the target as possible, from the bottom of our hearts!
the best”: female team handball players
and water polo players, and all eyes will be
on them. They were unstoppable during
qualifications for Olympic Games, they
simply “blown away” their opponents, all of
which gives us the right to consider them
candidates for the medal. Female and male members of those teams are at the same time, main players of their own clubs
– water polo club “Primorac” and handball
club “Budućnost”.
We have already shown that
it is not just about participating…
Of course, last but not least, “the best of
129
Mareza bb, Podgorica, +382 67 765 800, www.imanje-knjaz.me
Crnogorske TOP destinacije
ODLIČAN, PET!
Foto: NTO
After beach
parties
Koliko puta ste, za lijepi dan na plaži poželjeli da traje što duže? Na plažama u Crnoj
Gori - vaša želja će biti lako ispunjena! I ove
sezone, duž crnogorske rivijere biće organizovane žurke nakon sunčanja i kupanja,
koje će produžiti dobru zabavu sa gostima
i prijateljima iz cijelog svijeta. After beach
parties je Festival namijenjen uglavnom
mlađoj populaciji i zaljubljenicima u elektronsku muziku različitih žanrova. Planirano
je 300 zabava, koje će se organizovati u popodnevnim časovima na deset naših plaža,
od 16. jula do 14. avgusta. Dobru zabavu
u navedenom periodu, garantuju neka od
najvećih imena regionalne i svjetske DJ
scene. Dođite na plažu i plešite sa talasima,
uz najljepše ljetnje ritmove!
Biciklom kroz
pejzaže bez kraja
Sama Crna Gora je top destinacija:
očaravaju njeni planinski vijenci na sjeveru
i sjevero-istoku, klanci i kanjoni duž rijeka,
bistra prostranstva čistih jezera i plavi,
sunčani svod nad dugim plažama. Samo
ovdje je moguće u istom danu na planini
brati šumske jagode, potom ručati u
nekom od nacionalnih restorana u
centralnoj Crnoj Gori, a uveče otići u
provod na neku od naših pješčanih plaža
R
azumljivo je zašto je u Crnoj Gori
teško odabrati samo neke od turistički atraktivnih ponuda. Ipak, u
Nacionalnoj turističkoj oraganizaciji su se
potrudili da odaberu destinacije različitih
karakteristika, da bi konkretnije i jasnije razumjeli svu raskoš naše prirode i obimnost
turističkih ponuda. Po savjetu Nacionalne
turističke organizacije, evo 5 top destinacija koje ne smijete propustiti ovoga ljeta:
132
Kanjon Nevidio
Planina Durmitor i planina Vojnik, jedna ka
drugoj naslonjene, kao da skrivaju između
sebe rijeku Komarnicu. Kroz ljutu stijenu,
Komarnica je usjekla kanjon, koji je posljednji osvojen u Evropi. Kanjon je dug 3,5 km.
Stotinjak metara pred ulaz u kanjon, huči
veliki vodopad Grabovine. Kasnije, cijelim
kanjonom gospodare pjenušavi bukovi,
vodopadi, tjesnaci, uzani kanali i čitava galerija kamenih figura. Najizazovnija u kanjo-
nu je takozvana Kapija kamikaza - dionica
duga oko 80 m, mjestimično široka samo
25 cm. Proći kapijom kamikaza znači na licu
mjesta iskusiti zašto se kanjon Komarnice
zove Nevidio! Za to iskustvo potrebne su
sve moguće vještine. Oni, koji se odluče
za ovu alpinističku avanturu bez premca,
treba da znaju da ko jednom krene niz galerije, bukove i vodopade Nevidia, može
izaći samo ako dospije do njegovog kraja
na drugoj strani. Jer, povratak unazad nije
moguć. Ali, zato, svi koji su vidjeli i iskusili
Nevidio, imaju nenadmašnu uspomenu.
Kroz nepregledne visoravni u čak 5 nacionalnih parkova, biciklom možete da pređete preko 6000 km markiranih staza. Ono
što ćete vidjeti ne može se izraziti riječima!
Ova tura počinje od glavnog grada
Podgorice i vodi kroz nezaboravni spektar
raznolikih pejzaža. Na početku, udobno
vozite putevima kroz šarolika, mala mjesta.
Odmorite se u Danilovgradu prije nego što
počnete penjanje kroz šume ka planinama.
Na Vučju možete predahnuti: organizovani
su izleti do Kapetanovog jezera i Maganika.
Doduše, možete i brodom po Pivskom jezeru. Na dionici Smriječno-Ravno čeka vas
najimperesivniji dio ove ture: netaknuta,
neodoljiva ljepota prirode! Još jedan od
dragulja koje ćete vidjeti je kanjon Tare,
najdublji u Evropi (1300m). Ovdje ostavite biciklo na par dana i uživajte u raftingu
Tarom, kristalno čistom rijekom, dok vas
opija ljepota njenog kanjona. A kad se
opet mašite bicikla i nastavite put, doći
ćete do najneobičnijih predjela u cijeloj
Evropi: visoravni planine Sinjajevine. Široki
zeleni pojasevi su cijelog ljeta prekriveni
šarenilom divljeg cvijeća. Magična ljepota visoravni pratiće vas dok se spuštate ka
Rikavačkom jezeru. Posljednji, strmi uspon ove biciklističke ture završava se vidi-
kovcima sa kojih vam se čini da su masivi
Prokletija raširili svoja velika, planinska naručja samo za vas. Prokletije inače, mnogi
smatraju najljepšom crnogorskom planinom. Ruta se završava laganim spustom
natrag do Podgorice. Ova tura, kompletna,
traje 7 - 9 dana, ali možete voziti i samo
odabrani dio.
Otvoreni kamp projekat “5 u 5”
Izgradnja pet visokokvalitetnih kamp odmorišta za mobilhome, u pet nacionalnih
parkova, ima za cilj i podsticanje razvoja
kamp turizma uopšte. Prvi otvoreni kamp,
nalazi se u Nacionalnom parku Biogradska
gora, i po veoma pristupačnoj cijeni, možete ovdje boraviti, u svom kamp vozilu.
Biogradska gora sa svojim glacijalnim jezerom i stoljećima starom prašumom, uvjeriće vas da je priroda najbolji pokrovitelj odmora. Iste otvorene kampove, naći ćete i u
ostalim nacionalnim parkovima.
Putevima Stare
Crne Gore
Stara Crna Gora, riznica kulture, istorije, tradicije, folklora, autentične nacionalne kuhinje i gostoprimstva crnogorskog naroda,
smještena je u srcu današnje države. Zbog
atraktivnosti lokacije, pravi je izazov za posjetioce željne avanture, pješačenja, kajakinga, prirode i čistog vazduha. Susret kontinentalne i mediteranske klime, čini njene
poljoprivredne proizvode ukusnim i aromatičnim na neočekivan način. Pozivamo
vas da prilikom sljedeće posjete ovom regionu obidjete vinske podrume i uživate u
Vrancu i Krstaču, vinima čuvene sorte, sada
već uveliko cenjene svuda u svijetu. Skoro
svako domaćinstvo ovdje, proizvodi domaće vino i poželjeće vam dobrodošlicu
uz punu čašu, najbolji domaći sir i pršutu.
To trojstvo je ukus ovih krajeva, i dugo se
pamti.
U cetinjskom kraju, nadomak primorja, a
istovremeno blizu Skadarskog jezera i živopisne Rijeke Crnojevića, otkrićete pravo
malo medeno carstvo! Gostoljubivi pčelari
će vas ugostiti ne samo ekološki zdravim
medom, nego će vam ponuditi i mnoge
druge apsolutno prirodne pčelarske proizvode: prehrambene, ljekovite, kozmetičke... Domaćini nude i udoban smeštaj
ukoliko želite sebi priuštiti opuštajući odmor u veličanstvenom miru i tišini. Lokalne
znamenitosti pokazaće vam mještani, a
one stare legende možete čuti samo od
dobrodušnih i gostoljubivih staraca, vazda
voljnih za duge razgovore. Tako ćete iskusiti autentičan život malog mjesta, sačuvan
i spašen od nervoze i brzine današnjeg životnog stila. Ako pratite putokaze na Putu
meda, garantujemo vam slatku i zdravu
avanturu!
Dobrodošli!
Više informacija o turističkoj ponudi na
www.montenegro.travel
133
Montenegrin TOP destinations
straight a!
The whole Montenegro is
top destination: its mountain
ranges on east and northeast, gorges and canyons
along rivers, clear spaces of
lakes, and blue, sunny sky
above long beaches, are simply enchanting. Only here,
in Montenegro, is possible to
pick wild strawberries, then
have a lunch in one of the
national restaurants in middle Montenegro, and in the
evening, experience nightlife
on some of our sandy beaches, all that in only one day.
Photo: NTO
I
t is understandable why it is difficult
to pick only one of all the tourist offers
in Montenegro. However, National
tourist organization has made an effort to
choose destinations with different characteristics, so that visitors could have clearer
and better understanding of all the splendour of our nature, and abundance of tourist offers. According to recommendations
of National tourist organization, five top
destinations you simply must not miss this
summer are:
Canyon Nevidio
Mountain Durmitor, and mountain
Vojnik, leaned towards each other, as if
they are trying to hide river Komarnica
among themselves. Through wrathful
cliff, Komarnica cut a canyon that was the
last one in Europe to be conquered. This
canyon is 3,5 km long. Some hundred me134
ters in front of the canyon’s entrance, roars
great waterfall Grabovine. Further on, through entire canyon govern frothy cascades,
waterfalls, gorges, narrow channels and
entire gallery of stone figures. The most
challenging part of the canyon is so-called
Gate of kamikaze – share of the road, wide
approximately 25 cm. To pass through this
gate means to immediately experience
why this canyon was called Nevidio! You
will need every possible skill to get through such experience. Those, who venture into this unmatched alpine adventure, should know that the only way out of
those galleries, cascades and waterfalls of
Nevidio, is to reach the end of the canyon,
but on the other side. It is not possible to
return back once you step on this road.
Nevertheless, anyone who has ever seen
or experienced Nevidio, has an unsurpassed memory.
After beach
parties
How many times you wished a nice day on
beach could last as long as possible? On
beaches in Montenegro – your wish will
easily be fulfilled! Again, this season, along
Montenegrin Riviera, there will be parties
after sunbathing and swimming and in
such way, good time with guests and friends from all over the world, will be prolonged. After beach parties is a Festival created mostly for younger population and
fans of electronic music of various genres.
300 parties are planned, and they will be
organized in the afternoon on ten of our
beaches, from July 16 to August 14. Some
of the greatest names of regional and
worldwide DJ-ing scene guarantee great
fun in this period. Come to the beach and
dance with waves, with the most beautiful
summer rhythms as soundtrack!
On bicycle
through interminable landscapes
You can cross over 6 000 km of marked
paths by bicycle, through measureless
plateaus in no less than 5 national parks.
Words will not be able to describe the sights you will see!
This tour begins in capital city Podgorica
and leads through unforgettable range of
diverse landscapes. In the beginning, you
can ride your bike comfortably on roads
through picturesque, small places. Take a
break in Danilovgrad before you start climbing though woods towards mountains.
You can rest in Vučje: there are organized
excursions to Kapetanovo Lake (Capitain’s
lake) and Maganik. You can also take a boat and cruise on Piva Lake. On segment
Smriječno – Ravno, the most impressive
part of this tour is awaiting - intact, irresistible beauty of nature! Another gem you
will get to see is canyon of river Tara, the
deepest one in Europe (1300 m). This is
where you can leave your bicycle for a few
days and enjoy rafting on Tara, crystal clear
river, while the beauty of its canyon keeps
enchanting you. And when you mount
your bicycle again and hit the road, you
will encounter most unusual landscapes in
entire Europe: plateaus of Sinjajevina mountain. Wide, green belts covered in vivid
wild flowers all summer long. Magical beauty of the plateau will follow you as you
keep descending towards Rikavačko Lake.
The last, steep ascent of this cycling tour
ends with plateaus from which it seems
that massifs of Prokletije have opened their huge, mountain arms especially for you.
Prokletije are thought by many, to be the
most beautiful Montenegrin mountain.
The route ends with easy descend back to
Podgorica. This tour lasts 7 to 9 days, but
you can also choose to ride only specific
parts of it.
Open camp
project “5 in 5”
Building of high quality camp rests for mobile homes, in five national parks, aimed at
encouraging the development of camping
tourism in general. First open camp is in
National park Biogradska mountain, where
you can stay with your own camp vehicle
for a reasonable price. Biogradska mountain with its glacial lake and hundreds of
years old primeval forest, will convince you
that the nature is the best patron of the
rest. You will find the same open camps in
other national parks.
On the roads
of Old Royal
Montenegro
Old Royal Montenegro, treasury of culture,
tradition, folklore, authentic national cuisine
and hospitality of Montenegrin people, is
situated in the very heart of the today’s country. Due to attractive location, it presents
a true challenge for visitors who desire for
adventure, hiking, kayaking, nature and
fresh air. The meeting of continental and
Mediterranean climate makes its agricultural products tasteful and full of unexpected
aromas. Next time you come to this region,
we invite you to visit wine basements and
enjoy Vranac and Krstač, famous brands
of wine, now appraised all over the world.
Almost every local household produces
their own wine, and they will welcome you
with a full glass, the best homemade cheese and prosciuto. That threesome unity is
the flavour of these regions and you will remember it for a long time.
Near Cetinje, not so far from the coast, yet
close to the Skadar Lake and picturesque
Crnojevića River, you will discover true,
small honey empire! Hospitable beekeepers will offer you not only ecologically healthy honey, but also many other, completely natural apicultural products: nutritive,
medicinal, cosmetic… Hosts also offer cozy
accommodation if you desire to treat yourself with relaxing vacation in magnificent
peace and quiet. Locals will show you local
sights, and good-natured and hospitable
old men, always willing to talk, will tell you
some old legends. That way, you will be
able to experience authentic life of small village, protected and saved from stress and
speed of modern lifestyle. If you follow signposts on The Road of Honey, we guarantee you sweet and healthy adventure!
Welcome!
135
Iz istorije naših gradova - Ulcinj
EHO GUSARSKE
SLAVE
Piše: Mustafa Canka
U
prkos hrišćanskoj zabrani trgovine
ljudima, Venecija je još od XVI vijeka, bila središte trgovine robovima.
Dobro organizovane pijace robova, bile su
specijalnost i Malte, Mesine, Livorna… Taj
vrlo isplativ posao razvio se i u drugim sre-
dozemnim gradovima-lukama, pa postoje
podaci da je, recimo, iz Boke u južnu Italiju,
za samo par godina, prodato oko hiljadu robova. Primat Herceg Novog u ovom
unosnom poslu, preuzeo je Ulcinj, raskošni grad raskošne trgovine, utočište i dom
avanturista i gusara, prva ili posljednja stanica robovima koji su nestajali u dalekim
zemljama preko Sredozemlja ili u potpalublju dugih ulcinjskih i inih galija.
Zarobljavanje ljudi bio je posao kojem niko
nije osporavao legalnost. Ljudi su najdragocjenija i najskupocjenija roba u vodama
Sredozemlja sve do početka XIX vijeka. Da
bi se naoružale galije svih flota koje su se
susretale ili borile na Mediteranu, trebalo je, prije svega, riješiti problem ljudstva.
Gdje bi se moglo naći toliko ljudi potrebnih za veslanje da nije bilo robova, ratnih
zarobljenika i osuđenika oslobođenih tamnice da bi bili privezani za vesla?
Najveća osmanska pijaca roblja bila je u
Valoni. Sa druge strane Jadrana, sajmovi
su bili najbolja prilika za prodaju robova.
Tamo se oni prodaju na licitaciji, a cijene se
oko 30 dukata. Otkup, ipak, nije zavisio od
procijenjene vrijednosti zarobljenika, već
od vrijednosti koju njegov budući gospodar pretpostavlja da rob ima.
Većina robova u Ulcinju, gotovo njih tri
četvrtine, bili su iz Napuljske kraljevine i
Papske države; ostali su bili iz Dalmacije
i Dubrovačke republike. Ulcinjski gusari
su na obalama Apulije i Sicilije uglavnom
pljačkali bogate vile, a sa sobom su odvodili njihove vlasnike koje su potom prodavali kao robove.
Ulcinjani su robove tretirali kao zarobljenike i nijesu ih koristili kao radnu snagu, već
da bi dobili otkup od srodnika, prijatelja ili
zemljaka uhvaćenih ljudi. Zato su omogućavali robovima da se jave svojim porodicama ili prijateljima, obavijeste ih da su u
Ulcinju, ne bi li ih otkupili. Otkupi su često
obavljani na neutralnom terenu, uglavnom
u Dubrovniku.
Predanje, u stvari, pominje izvjesnog Serveta, čija se sudbina, ali
i osnova imena, poklapa sa Servantesovim. Prema predanju je
ovdje, među starogradskim zidinama, dugo čekajući
otkup, boravio rob Servet, koji će na kraju postati i ulcinjski zet. I
ovjekovječiti ime Ulcinja.
Istina, u brojnim tekstovima se navodi da je Miguel de
Servantes dopao robije ”jednog dana 1575. godine kada su tri
ulcinjska leuta (brzi gusarski čamci) napali neku špansku fregatu u Sredozemnom moru. U krvavom obračunu, gusari su
savladali ratoborne Špance i brod sa zarobljenicima dovezli u
svoju luku. Među zarobljenicima pronađen je i jedan sa posebnom preporukom španskog monarha. To je značilo da se radi
o vrijednom robu, za koga je, prema procjeni vlasnika, trebalo
uzeti dosta zlata”.
136
Dubrovačka vlada je u januaru 1653. primila pismo iz Ulcinja kojim se poziva: „…
da preuzme dubrovačko roblje koje su
Ulcinjani bili prekupili od Maura, i to po
onim cijenama po kojima je ono kupljeno.”
U suprotnom, navedeno je: „…to roblje će
se preprodati u udaljenije krajeve. ” Iste godine skadarskom sandžak-begu bio je upućen Luka Petrović sa pismom dubrovačke
vlade, uz koje su priključena pisma velikog
vezira i kapudan-paše Muhameda prema
kojima turski haračari Dubrovčani ne mogu biti roblje u Imperiji.
Legenda o robu Servetu
Ulcinjsko narodno predanje bilježi da je i slavni španski pisac
Miguel de Servantes bio rob strašnih ulcinjskih gusara! Štoviše,
i njegovo znamenito djelo „Don Kihot” i glavna junakinja romana, Dulčineja od Toboza, dovode se u vezu sa navodnim zatočenistvom u Ulcinju. Jer, tvrde oni, „Don Kihot” je nastao poslije
Servantesovog robovanja u ulcinjskom Starom gradu, koji se u
romanskim državama, kako tada, tako i danas, naziva Dulcinjo
ili Dolcinjo. To bi moglo da znači da je Dulčineja drugo ime za
Ulcinjanku.
Foto: Risto Božović
Gusari ne haju
za Portu
Po priči, koju je zapisao književnik Milenko Ratković, otac i sestra Miguela de Servantesa, prodali su sve što su imali da otkupe njega i brata mu Rodriga. Međutim, sakupljena suma bila
je dovoljna za slobodu samo jednoga. Miguel je odlučio da se
Rodrigo vrati u Španiju. Ostao je da čeka drugu priliku. A ona
dugo nije stizala. Iako je stalno bio izlagan na Trgu robova u
Starom gradu, Španca niko nije htio da otkupi.
Po nekim zapisima, vlasnik je kasnije Miguela odveo u Alžir,
gdje ga je kupio jedan od najsvirepijih tamošnjih glavara, izvjesni Hasan-aga. Odatle je Servantes uspio da se izvuče zahvaljujući španskim fratrima koji su otkupljivali zemljake zarobljene
po Mediteranu. Za Miguela, kažu zapisi, morali su da izbroje
500 zlatnih talira i tako je on, kako se navodi, poslije pet godina
teškog robovanja, stupio na špansku zemlju. Tek nakon toga će
uslijediti „Don Kihot” i priča o Dulčineji, odnosno Ulcinjanki.
U narodnom predanju se mnogo toga slaže sa onim što stoji u
zapisima. Ono govori da su gusari zarobljavali „svakakve ljude”,
a najviše su voljeli kad im šaka dopadnu bogataši ili znameniti
kapetani. Naravno, zbog visine otkupa.
Legenda koja se dovodi u vezu sa Servantesom, kaže kako je
jednom u Stari grad stigao rob za koga se pretpostavljalo da je
poseban, te zato vrlo vrijedan, ali nijesu mogli utvrditi o kome
se radi. Nazvali su ga Servet, što je, evidentno, osnovica imena
kasnije slavnog Španca. Njegovo ponašanje pratilo se sa posebnom pažnjom. Ovaj bi rob, primijetili su mještani, do kasno
u noć ostajao budan u svojoj ćeliji, uvijek zamišljen i nadnesen
nad svoje zapise. Danju je, interesantno, uvijek pjevao, pa su
djevojke često otvarale prozore da ga slušaju. Jednoj djevojci,
kaže predanje, to nije bilo dovoljno, pa je svaki put kada bi rob
Servet pošao u šetnju dozvoljenim stazama, išla za njim. I tako
se rodila ljubav između mještanke i nepoznatog roba. Nakon
nekoliko godina, jedan stranac je donio mnoštvo novaca i oslobodio roba, koji je sa sobom poveo i lijepu Starograđanku.
Tako se i u predanju, baš kao i u zapisima, mozaik o Servantesovom
robovanju, sklopio u istovjetnu ljubavnu legendu!
137
Dubrovački senatori su se na licu mjesta
uvjerili da gusari Ulcinja i Santa Maure malo haju za sultanove fermane. Marin Borisi,
dubrovački emisar koji je poslat u Ulcinj,
javlja da: „Tamošnje age nijesu obezvlašćene naredbama Porte i rastu njihove akcije
na moru.”
Zbog toga se stalno povećavao broj zasuženih Dubrovčana, a ni staro roblje nije
puštano.
U jeku Kandijskog rata, 1662. god, ovdje
je boravio čuveni turski putopisac Evlija
Čelebija, koji zapisuje da u Ulcinj: „Dolaze
odvažni arnautski momci iz drugih kasaba, sjedaju u fregate i plijene, pljačkaju i
pustoše neprijateljsku obalu... Donoseći
bezbrojno blago i odabrano roblje, vraćaju se u Ulcinj kao pobjednici i daju sandžak-begu desetak od plijena. Tako sam ja,
siromah, bio u ovom gradu i dok sam ga
posmatrao, došlo je iz đaurske Pulje sedam
fregata sa ratnim plijenom. Od tih sedam
fregata plijena Jusuf-begu je pripalo devedeset jedna hiljada groša carskog desetka i
sedamnaest robova“. Dakle, samo u toj akciji ulcinjski gusari su na jugu Italije zarobili
170 robova!?
Ulcinjani su poslije zemljotresa 1667.
masovno dovodili u svoj grad roblje iz
Dubrovnika, zarobljavajući i plemiće. „Ako
se ne stane na put gusarima, svi će postati
roblje Ulcinjana“, pisali su Dubrovčani Porti
u martu 1668. godine. Ipak, mnogi su bogataši i uglednici imali robove. Svoje roblje
imali su zapovjednik grada Murat, skadarski emin Ali-beg, skadarski janjičar Halilaga, Resul-aga Sori i mnogi drugi, a samo
jedan pravi gusar – Jusuf reis.
Sve po pravu
i zakonu
Dakle, tokom Prvog morejskog rata (16831699.) Ulcinj je važna pijaca hrišćanskog
roblja. Dozvolu za prodaju izdavao je zapovjednik Ulcinja Oruč-aga, svakako i sam
naplaćujući na dobitak, prema običajnom
pravu. A običajno pravo bilo je duga, nesalomiva institucija.
Trgovina robovima dostigla je zenit početkom XVIII vijeka. Od 1708-1712. godine na
prodaji je bilo oko 200 robova, a polovina
je otkupljena u jadranskim gradovima.
Ulcinjani su u junu 1715. doveli kao zaro138
bljenika sa Korčule, župnika Marka Bona.
Prodat je na aukciji za 100 cekina. Nakon
dvije godine, kada je njegova rodbina saznala gdje se nalazi, otkupila ga je za 141
cekin.
Novo vrijeme – novi ukusi, pa se od sredine XVIII vijeka sve više traže robovi iz Afrike.
Ulcinjanin Ali Baša doveo je 1770. iz Egipta
dvije robinje, a jedna grupa koja se vratila
1775. iz sjeverne Afrike dovela je 13 crnih
robova i robinja. Svoje robove Ulcinjani su
često kupovali i u Tripoliju, u koji je roblje
stizalo iz Sudana. Oni bi potom bili preprodavani ili dovođeni u Ulcinj, gdje bi uskoro
postajali slobodni građani i bavili se zemljoradnjom i pomorstvom.
Nakon što je Crna Gora preuzela Ulcinj
1880. godine, neki ulcinjski Arapi iselili su
se u Albaniju. Brodovlasnik Bet Đuli je sa
sobom poveo osam svojih Arapa, a hadži
Mehmet Beci petoro njih. Ipak, u Ulcinju
je sve do savremenog doba bilo građana
crne puti. Ulcinjski crnci, kao eho duge
gusarske slave, bili su omiljeni sugrađani, a
njihova egzotična lica dokaz da ni more, ni
svijet nijesu veći od avanturističkog duha
čovjekovog.
From history of our towns – Ulcinj
Echo of pirates’
fame
By: Mustafa Canka
D
Maurians, and by the prices slaves were
bought for.” Otherwise, it was stated that:
”…those slaves will be sold to distant countries.” That same year Luka Petrović was
sent to Sanjak bey form Skadar, carrying
letter from Government from Dubrovnik,
together with letters of great vizier and
pasha Muhamed, according to whom
Turkish tax collectors from Dubrovnik
cannot be slaves in Empire.
Senators from Dubrovnik could see on
the spot that pirates from Ulcinj and
Saint Maura could not care less about
sultan’s laws. Marin Borisi, delegate from
Dubrovnik sent to Ulcinj, reported that:“
Local agas do not have less government
because of orders from Porte, and their ac-
tion on sea keeps growing.” That were the
reasons the number of enslaved people
from Dubrovnik was getting bigger, and
even the old slaves were not let free.
In the middle of Candian war, in 1662,
famous world traveler Evlija Čelebija
who visited Ulcinj, wrote down that to
Ulcinj:”Come brave Arnaut boys from other
provincial towns, sit in boats and ransack,
rob and devastate hostile coast…Bringing
enormous treasure and selected slaves,
they return to Ulcinj as winners and give
sanjak bey tenth percent of the plunder.
Therefore, when I was in this town, observing it, seven boats with war plunder came
from Pula. Out of seven boats of plunder,
Jusuf bey got twenty one thousand coins
Legend of slave Cervet
Popular legend from Ulcinj says that even famous Spanish writer Miguel de Cervantes was enslaved by scary pirates from
Ulcinj! However, his prominent book “Don Quixote” and main
female character, Dulcinea del Toboso, are connected to his
alleged slavery in Ulcinj.. Because, as they claim, “Don Qiuxote”
was written after Cervantes was enslaved in Old town in Ulcinj,
which is in Roman countries, then and now, called Dulcinio or
Dolcino. That could mean that Dulcinea was actually another
name for woman from Dolcino.
The legend in fact, mentions certain Cervet, whose destiny, and
base of the name coincides with those of Cervantes. According
to legend, here, among walls of Old town, waiting long for ransom, was slave Cervet, who will eventually become even the
son-in-law in Ulcinj. And he will mark the name of Ulcinj in history.
Enslaving people was job whose legality
no one questioned. People were most
precious and most valuable merchandise
in waters of Mediterranean until the beginning of XIX century. The first issue to solve was the human issue, when there was
need to arm galleys of all fleets that encountered one another in Mediterranean or
fought against each other. Where could all
those people necessary to row be found
if there were not for slaves, war prisoners
and convicts freed from dungeons just to
be tied to rows?
140
Pirates do not care
about Porte
Government form Dubrovnik in January
1653 received a letter from Ulcinj that invited to: …”take over slaves from Dubrovnik
that Pirates from Ulcinj collected from
espite the fact that Christians
banned trading people, Venice
was the center of slave trafficking
since XVI century. Well-organized slave
markets were specialties of Malta, Mesina,
Livorno… That extremely profitable business developed in other Mediterranean
towns-harbors, so there are records that,
for example, from Boka to south Italy, in
only a couple of years, around thousand
slaves were sold. Ulcinj, being a splendid town with magnificent trade, refuge
and home for adventurers and pirates,
first and last station for slaves who then
disappeared in faraway countries over
Mediterranean or in down decks of long
galleys from Ulcinj or elsewhere, took over
a leadership in this lucrative business from
Herceg Novi.
The largest Ottoman slave market was in
Valona. On the other side of Adriatic Sea,
fairs were best occasions for slave selling.
Slaves were sold on auctions, and prices were around 30 gold coins. Ransom,
however, did not depend on approximated value of the captive, but on the value,
his future master supposed that slave had.
ners, and never used them as working force, but to get ransom money from their relatives, friends or their countrymen. That is
why they permitted their slaves to contact
their families and friends, let them know
that they are in Ulcinj, so they could be bought off. Buying off was often performed
on neutral territory, mostly in Dubrovnik.
True, numerous texts stated that Miguel de Cervantes was
enslaved “one day in 1575 when tri fast pirate boats attacked a
Spanish ship in the Mediterranean. In bloody fight, pirates overpowered warlike-spirited Spanish people and brought the ship
with captives in their harbor. There was one captive among
them, who had a special recommendation from Spanish monarch. That meant that it was valuable slave, for whom, according to estimation of his owner, a lot of gold should be taken.”
Majority of slaves in Ulcinj, almost three
quarters of them, were from kingdom of
Napoli and Pope’s republic; the rest were
from Dalmatia and Republic of Dubrovnik.
Pirates from Ulcinj usually robbed rich vi-
llas on shores of Apuly and Sicilia, and took
their owners, whom they later sold as slaves.
According to this story, written by author Milenko Ratković,
father and sister of Miguel de Cervantes sold everything they
had to buy him and his brother Rodrigo off. However, collected
money was enough only for one of them. Miguel decided that
Rodrigo should go back to Spain. He stayed to wait for another
chance. Nevertheless, that chance did not come for a long time. Although he was constantly on exhibition on Square of slaves in Old town, no one wanted to buy this Spaniard.
According to some writings, owner later took Miguel to Algeria,
where one of the cruelest local governors, certain Hasan-aga,
bought him. Cervantes was saved from there thanks to Spanish
friars, who were buying off their countrymen, captured along
Mediterranean countries. As notes say, they had to cash 500
golden talers, so he, as the story tells, after five years of hard life
in slavery, entered the Spanish land. Only after that experience,
he wrote “Don Quixote” and the story about Dulcinea, or, woman from Ulcinj.
Popular legend is in many ways similar to the facts written in
notes. The legend says that pirates enslaved “all kinds of people”, and they preferred to catch rich man or famous captains.
Of course, they did that because of the amount of ransom money.
Legend, connected to Cervantes, says that once in Old town
slave arrived who was supposed to be special, and therefore
very valuable, but they could not establish who he actually
was. They named him Cervet, which is, apparently, base of the
name of the famous Spanish. They observed his behavior with
special attention. Locals noticed that this slave would stay up
late at night in his cell, always pensive and bent over his writings. During daytime he would always sing, which was interesting, so the girls often opened windows just to listen to him.
According to legend, there was one girl who could not be satisfied just by listening, so every time the slave Cervet would go
for a walk on permitted paths, she would follow him. Therefore,
the love between local girl and unknown slave was born. A few
years later, an old man brought a lot of money and freed slave,
who took beautiful girl from Old town with himself.
That way in the legend, just as in facts, mosaic about Cervantes’s
slavery matched into the same love legend!
Citizens of Ulcinj treated slaves as priso141
of tsar’s tenth percent and seventeen slaves.“ So, only in that single action, pirates
from Ulcinj captured 170 slaves in south of
Italy!?
After the earthquake in 1667, people
from Ulcinj constantly brought slaves
from Dubrovnik to their town, enslaving
even the noblemen. “If one doesn’t stand
in their way, pirates from Ulcinj will enslave everyone”, wrote to Porte people from
Dubrovnik in March 1668. However, many
rich and respected people had their own
slaves. Their own personal slaves had town
commander Murat, Skadar emir Ali-bey,
Skadar janissary Halil-aga, Resul-aga Sori,
and many others, and only one among
them was a real pirate – Jusuf reis.
Everything by the
law and order
Therefore, during the first Morey war (1683
to 1699), Ulcinj was important market of
Christian slaves. Ulcinj commander Oruč-
142
aga, who was also taking certain percentage from plunder, according to custom
law, issued sales permission. Moreover,
custom law was long, unbreakable institution. Slave trafficking reached its peak in
the beginning of XVIII century. From 1708
to 1712, there were around 200 slaves on
sale, half of which bought off in Adriatic
towns. Pirates from Ulcinj in June 1715 brought as captive parish priest from Korčula,
Marko Bon. He was sold on auction for 100
cekins (kind of currency from that time).
Two years later, when his relatives found
out about his whereabouts, they bought
him off for 141 cekins.
New time – new tastes, so from the middle
of XVIII century, there was raising demand
for slaves from Africa. Ali Baša from Ulcinj
brought from Egypt two female slaves in
1770, and one group, which returned from
North Africa in 1775, brought 13 black male and female slaves. People from Ulcinj
often bought their slaves in Tripoli, where
slaves arrived from Sudan. The slaves then
would be resold or brought to Ulcinj, whe-
re they soon became free citizens and worked in agriculture and sailing.
After Montenegro took Ulcinj over in 1880,
some Arabs from Ulcinj moved away to
Albania. Ship owner Bet Đuli took along
with himself eight of his Arabs, and pilgrim
Mehmet Beci five of them. However, citizens with black skin color remained in
Ulcinj to modern times. Black people from
Ulcinj, representing an echo of pirates’ fame, were popular co-citizens, and their
exotic faces proved that neither sea, nor
the world, are larger than man’s adventurous spirit.
Rukometašica Budućnosti, Milena Knežević, podiže prvu
Plavu zastavicu u sezoni 2012, na kupalištu - “Escallera”, plaža Jaz
JUŽNE PRIČE – LIJEPE NAŠE PLAŽE
Svečano podizanje
Plavih zastavica
Tekst: Bratislav Kokolj
Fotografije: Arhiv JP Morsko dobro
Prestižno međunarodno priznanje – Plavu zastavicu, po Programu koji realizuju
Međunarodna mreža ekoloških nevladinih organizacija i Fondacija za ekološko
obrazovanje, ove godine zaslužilo je devetnaest naših plaža
U
z prigodnu svečanost, 5. juna
podignute su prve ovogodišnje
Plave zastavice na našim plažama. Kampanja Plava zastavica ove godine
slavi jubilej – 25 godina uspješnog ekološkog programa čiji su cilj plaže i marine
visokog ekološkog standarda, organizacije
i usluga. Simbol prestižnog priznanja biće
istaknut na 3 098 plaža i 646 marina u 36
država sjeverne hemisfere. Među njima će,
po odluci Međunarodnog žirija, biti 19 naših plaža: Escallera, Blue Beach, S&I Beach
Life - Jaz, Club Hotel Rivijera – Njivice, Cuba
Libre i Porto Žanjic – Žanjice, Stevuzo –
uvala Dobreč, Kalardovo i Plavi Horizonti –
Tivat, Almara beach – Oblatno, Sveti Toma
i Queen of Montenegro – Bečići, Centar –
Sutomore, Tony Grill, Evropa beach, Safari,
Tropikana, MCM beach i Copacabana –
Velika plaža, Ulcinj.
Vrijedno je pomenuti da su i kupališta Lux
Beach i Miami na Velikoj plaži u Ulcinju, kao
i plaža Paradiso u uvali Utjeha kod Bara,
predložene za tzv. Pilot fazu Programa, a
marina Porto Montenegro, kandidovana je
za Plavu zastavicu za marine.
Plava zastavica simbol je visokih standarda zaštite životne sredine, kao i kvalitetnih
sanitarnih i bezbjedonosnih uslova na plažama i marinama. Sastavni dio Programa je
i ekološko obrazovanje, kao i informisanje
javnosti, vlasti i turističkih aktera o zaštiti životne sredine.
Program Plava zastavica sprovodi se u
Crnoj Gori od 2003. godine, kada je NVO
Strogi kriterijumi
Dodjeljivanje Plave zastavice zasniva se na ispunjavanju kriterijuma iz četiri oblasti:
ekološko obrazovanje i informisanost, kvalitet vode, ekološko upravljanje te sigurnost i usluge. Na plažama se moraju ispoštovati 32 kriterijuma, a u marinama 24.
Neki od kriterijuma su: organizovati bar 5 ekoloških edukativnih akcija, postaviti informacije o kvalitetu vode, informisati o obalnim ekosistemima i osjetljivim prirodnim područjima, poštovati plažni red i pravila ponašanja, propisi o korišćenju plaža
moraju biti dostupni javnosti, analizirati vodu za kupanje i o tome informisati, industrijski i kanalizacioni ispusti ne smiju uticati na područje plaže, poštovati standard o
mikrobiološkim parametrima vode, regulisati pristup pasa i drugih kućnih ljubimaca,
obezbijediti mjere sigurnosti, omogućiti snabdijevanje pijaćom vodom, itd. Dakle,
dobiti Plavu zastavicu je, zaista, trud za poštovanje!
144
Ekom postala pridruženi član Fondacije za
ekološku edukaciju (FEE) i time stekla pravo da bude nacionalni operater za Plavu
zastavicu kod nas. Program Plava zastavica odvija se u dvije faze: zainteresovanom
kupalištu ili marini se u prvoj godini dodjeljuje sertifikat kandidata, te se, nakon
uspješno završene pilot faze, to kupalište ili
marina može kandidovati za Plavu zastavicu kod Međunarodnog žirija, što znači da
je može i zavrijediti.
JP Morsko dobro je od samog početka podržalo ovu kampanju i postalo njen generalni sponzor. U Morskom dobru ističu da
inicijativa za kandidaturu za Plavu zastavicu potiče od samih korisnika, a njih je sve
više, To je odličan znak, jer i druge plaže na
Crnogorskom primorju zavrjeđuju da se na
njima zavijore Plave zastavice. Sem finansijske i organizacione podrške od strane
Morskog dobra, kampanju Plava zastavica
podržavaju i Ministarstvo održivog razvoja
i turizma, Nacionalna turistička organizacija, Crveni krst Crne Gore, primorske opštine
i, naravno, lokalne nevladine organizacije.
Za stranog turistu, a sve više i za domaćeg,
činjenica da je plaža nosilac Plave zastavice, potvrđuje da su odabrali pravo mjesto
za odmor. Crna Gora je dobila mogućnost
da svojim jedinstvenim prirodnim potencijalom, bistrim morem, uređenim plažama,
obalama i opremljenim marinama, konkuriše na svjetskom tržištu kao jedna od kvalitetnijih i prepoznatljivih destinacija.
Poštuj
ljepotu
Naše plaže su prilično blizu jedna drugoj i mnoge karakteristike koje važe za
jednu, važe i za onu susjednu. Samo,
Plava zastavica dokazuje da se o pojedinima, ipak, vodi više računa i više
cijeni njihova vrijednost i ljepota. Plaže
nam trebaju, ne samo ljeti, jer su one,
između ostalog, dio naših ličnih uspomena i iskustava, slike koje sobom nosimo i kada smo daleko od domovine,
ali i slike po kojima stranci sude o nama! Zato, tokom ovog dugog, vrelog
ljeta, uživajte na našim lijepim i čistim
plažama – sa poštovanjem! 145
South stories – our beautiful beaches
Festive rising
of Blue flags
Prestigious international
award – Blue flag, by
Program that is realized by
International network of
ecological non-governmental
organizations and Foundation for ecological education,
this year earned nineteen of
our beaches.
Text: Bratislav Kokolj
Photography:
Archive of PE for Coastal Zone Management
D
uring adequate celebration, on
June 5, first Blue flags for this
year on our beaches have been
raised. The campaign Blue flag celebrates
a jubilee – 25 years of successful ecological program whose aims are beaches
and marinas of high ecological standard,
organization and services. The symbol of
this prestigious acknowledgement will be
put on 3 098 beaches and 646 marinas
in 36 countries of the north hemisphere. As International jury decided, 19 of
our beaches will be on that list: Escallera,
Blue Beach, S&I Beach Life – Jaz, Club of
hotel Rivijera – Njivice, Cuba Libre and
Porto Žanjic – Žanjice, Stevuzo – small
bay Dobreč, Kalardovo and Blue Horizons
– Tivat, Almara beach – Oblatno, Saint
Toma and Queen of Montenegro – Bečići,
Center – Sutomore, Tony Grill, Europe beach, Safari, Tropikana, MCM beach and
Copacabana – Velika plaža, Ulcinj. It is
important to mention that beaches Lux
146
Beach and Miami on Big beach in Ulcinj,
as well as beach Paradiso in small bay
Utjeha near Bar, were suggested for socalled Pilot phase of the Program, and
marina Porto Montenegro was nominated for Blue flag in category of marines.
Blue flag is symbol of high standards in
protection of environment, as well as
high quality sanitary and safety conditions on beaches and in marinas. Part of the
Program is also ecological education, and
Strict criteria
Assigning of Blue flag is based on fulfillment of criteria in four areas: ecological
knowledge and information, water quality, ecological management, and safety and
services. 32 criteria must be followed on beaches and 24 in marinas. Some of the
rules are: organizing at least 5 ecological educational actions, making information
about water quality visible, keeping informed about coastal ecosystems and sensitive natural areas, respecting order and rules of conduct on beach, all rules about
usage of beaches must be publicly visible, analyzing water for swimming and providing information about it, industrial and sewage outlets must not affect beach area,
following standards about microbiological parameters of water, regulating access of
dogs and other pets, providing security measures, providing supplies of drinking water, etc. Therefore, getting a Blue flag is truly hard work, which should be respected!
informing of public, authorities and tourist
workers about protection of environment.
The Blue flag program has been implemented in Montenegro since 2003, when
NGO Ekom became joined member of
Foundation for ecological education (FEE)
and by that, got right to become national operator for Blue flag in our country.
Program Blue flag works in two stages: beach or marina interested in this program, in
the first year get a certificate of a candidate, and after successfully completing pilot
phase, that beach or marina can candidate
for Blue flag in front of International jury,
which means that they can earn it.
Public Enterprise for Coastal Zone
Management from the very beginning
supported this campaign and became its
general sponsor. In Company Coastal Zone
Management, they point out that the initiative for the candidacy for Blue flag ca-
me from the users themselves, and their
number is getting bigger and bigger. That
is a great sign, because other beaches in
Montenegrin coast are worth having Blue
flags waving on them. Besides financial
and organizational support from Coastal
Zone Management, campaign Blue flag is
supported by Ministry of sustainable development and tourism, National tourist
organization, Red cross of Montenegro,
coastal towns, and of course, local non-governmental organizations.
For foreign tourist, and now more and more for the local one, the fact that a beach
has Blue flag, confirms that he/she made a
good decision when choosing a place for
vacation. Montenegro got a chance to become competitive on world wide market
as one of valuable and recognizable destinations, thanks to its unique natural potential, clear sea, arranged beaches, coasts
and equipped marinas.
Respect
beauty
Beaches on our coast are pretty close
to one another, and many characteristics that are worth for one, are
worth for the neighboring beach
also. However, Blue flag proves that
certain beaches are better taken care
of, and that their worth and beauty is
more valued. We need beaches, not
only in summer, because beaches
are, among other things, part of our
personal memories and experiences, images that we carry along even
when we are far from our homeland,
but also images that foreigners judge us by! So, during this long, hot
summer, enjoy on our beautiful and
clean beaches – with respect!
147
CRNOGORSKA KUŽINA
KRAP NA PODGORIČKI
NAČIN
Pripremila: Nada Bukilić
Foto: NTO, Slaven Vilus
Njegovo Visočanstvo Krap iliti šaran, pravi je gospodar
Skadarskog jezera, drag ulov ribolovcima, nezaobilazan na
slavskim i slavljeničkim trpezama, obožavan od strane
gurmana i mnogo poštovan od vrsnih domaćica, jer one znaju
zašto se kaže da „ljubav na usta ulazi”! Sa sve šljivama…
A
h, kada kažeš: krap, kao da prozoveš lošeg pjevača na binu! Krap?
Međutim, nijedna od riba nema
ime koje je u tolikoj diskrepanci sa ukusom
njenog cijenjenog mesa!
Krap je rođeni brat šaranu, i mada ima vrlo bliske rođačke veze i sa drugim slatkovodnim ribama, ovaj naš jezerski suveren,
povelik, dobro uhranjen, „gusto naseljen” u
Skadarskom jezeru, ipak nema alternativu.
I u vodi i na stolu, krap je neprikosnoven!
Još kad je pripremljen na podgorički način,
sa suvim šljivama, krap prestaje biti smiješno ime za veliku ribu i postaje veliko ime za
pravi gastronomski užitak!
Kako se, dakle, priprema Krap na podgorički način?
Ako nijeste ribolovac, morate se osloniti na
svoje poznavanje trgovačke psihologije i
takvi otići na pijacu, u ranije sate, da od vještih prodavaca ribe, mirno i lukavo dobijete neophodne podatke o ribi pred vama. U
mnoštvu, morate pronaći krapa čije su oči
„staklaste”, čvrste, tijelo cijelo, da nije izranjavano i isječeno, te da nije mlitavo. Takav
krap je, onda, sigurno izlovljen mrežom i –
nedavno!
Napomena: krap se ne kupuje kao meso ili
neka druga riba – on mora biti iznad veličine koja zadovoljava vaš apetit, ne samo
zato što je ukusan toliko da ne može biti
prevelik, već i zato što krap ima „nezgodan”
skelet i raspored „igala”, tj. koščica, pa kada je omanji, ne možete mu ništa od njih.
Najbolji krap je krap od pet kila. Čista petica! Zatim, istog prodavca ribe zamolite da
vam krapa očisti. Jer, donijeti tu silu u rođenu kuhinju, nije preporučljivo. Tek tada
možete krapa odnijeti kući.
E, kad stignete, treba vam neko ko zna što je
kužina i gušt. Ako nekog takvog još nemate,
nema vam druge nego zasucite rukave!
Dobro opranog i pod tekućom vodom
ispranog krapa, najprije isijecite „na zvona”
– to su parčad debljine do 3-4 cm, i blago
osolite. (Glavu krapa, kao i sitniju parčad pri
repu, možete iskoristiti za pripremu riblje
čorbe.)
U dubljoj posudi, na dosta maslinovog ulja,
mada može i kombinacija maslinovog i
suncokretovog ulja, izdinstajte najmanje
148
kilogram usitnjenog crnog luka. Ako dodate i dvije, tri glavice onog crvenog, crmničkog luka, biće bolje. Uglavnom, s lukom ne
možete pretjerati!
Pola kilograma suvih šljiva bez koštica properite i potopite u mlaku vodu da odstoje i
malo nabubre.
Pripremite 200 do 300 gr pirinča (to zavisi
od ukusa, apetita, ali i broja osoba koje će
ručati sa vama), biber, vino i lovor.
U dubok, poveći pleh prespite uprženi
luk, rasporedite po cijelom dnu. Dodajte
pirinač i dio šljiva, pa izmiješajte. „Zvona”
uvaljajte u brašno i poređajte u pleh tako
da im „nađete mjesta” u pirinču. Još šljiva
rasporedite i između ribe i uz nju. Dodajte
još ulja, jer je riba tako ukusnija, a i pirinač.
Posolite, pobiberite i zalijte većom čašom
vode. Stavite u zagrijanu rernu na 200 do
220°C. Već nakon deset, petnaest minuta,
moći ćete procijeniti kojom brzinom pirinač upija tečnost, pa ćete znati koliko vina
da dodate u jelo.
Izvadite pleh, dodajte crno vino, preostale
šljive i lovorov list i brzo vratite u rernu. Vina
će vam trebati bar čaša, dvije, ali možete
dodati i nešto vode, posebno ako ste pretjerali sa pirinčem.
Krap na podgorički mora se peći oko uru,
ali na temperaturi ne većoj od 200°C, da bi
se sve arome i ukusi međusobno ispovezivali i stvorili jedinstven ukus podgoričkog
specijaliteta. Nemojte prevrtati, miješati, razdvajati niti na bilo koji drugi način
uznemiravati „zvona” – nek odzvone svoje
u toploj rerni, slani i od šljiva slatkasti riblji
komadi. Jedine dozvoljene intervencije su
dodavanje vode, vina ili ulja.
Kada je jelo gotovo, nek odstoji u rerni do
služenja. Jer, najgore što mu se može desiti je da se ohladi prije nego stignu gosti.
Međutim, mnogi sladokusci tvrde da je
krap na podgorički, jednako ukusan i kad
se sasvim rashladi. Ipak, pirinač nema tu
osobinu, pa neka bude na toplom.
Servirajte jelo bez ili nakon čorbe, uz salatu
po izboru i obavezno – vino! Mada se i dalje spori oko toga je li uz slatkovodnu ribu
bolje piti crna ili bijela vina, naš najiskreniji
savjet je – sasvim je svejedno! Krap je pravo, pravcato podgoričko jelo sa carskom
velikodušnošću koja dozvoljava sve što je
srcu, tj. nepcu milo. Takođe, carski, ne da se
jesti u osami!
Zato, uz „zvona” nek zvone čaše i dobro raspoloženje, a sve druge savjete daće vam,
zadovoljni, oni koje ste carski nahranili.
Prijatno!
149
Montenegrin cuisine
Carp prepared the
way they make it
in Podgorica
By: Nada Bukilić
Photo: NTO, Slaven Vilus
His Majesty Carp, is the real master of Skadar lake, dear catch to fishermen, inevitable on
feasts of the patron saints and on other celebrations, adored by gourmets and greatly respected by experienced housewives, because they know the meaning of saying:“ love comes
through stomach”! Altogether with plums…
O
h, when you say - carp, as if you
call on some bad singer on stage!
Carp? However, none of the fish
has a name so opposite to taste of its precious flesh!
Krap (a kind of carp fish found in Skadar lake) is carp’s brother, and although he is closely related to some other fresh-water fish,
this lake sovereign, big, well fed, “densely
populated” in Skadar lake does not have an
alternative. In water, as on a table, carp is sacred! And when it is prepared the way they
make it in Podgorica, with dry plums, carp
becomes a silly name for such a great fish,
and becomes great name for true gourmet
delight!
So, how do you prepare carp on Pogorica
way?
If you don’t happen to be a fisherman, you
will have to rely on your knowledge of
merchant’s psychology, and armed with
that knowledge go to the market, earlier in
the morning, to calmly and craftily, obtain
from skillful vendors necessary information
about fish in front of you. From pile of fish,
you must distinguish the carp whose eyes
are “glassy”, firm, body whole, not wounded
or cut, and not at least slack. Such carp has
definitely been caught by fishing net, and
not so long ago!
150
Note: you do not buy carp the way you
buy meat or some other kind of fish – it
has to be larger than size that would satisfy
your appetite, not just because it is tasty so
much that it can never be too big, but because carp has “tricky” skeleton and scheme
of “needles”, e.g. bones, so when you buy
smaller one, those needles prevent you
to prepare the fish properly. The best carp
is one of around 5 kilos. Straight A! Then,
you will have to ask the same vendor to
clean the fish for you. Because, it is not re-
commendable to bring all of that to your
own house. Only then, you can bring your
carp home.
Now, when you arrive, you will need someone who knows what is cuisine and pleasure. If you don’t have such person near you,
there is noting left for you, but to roll up
your sleeves!
Wash the carp well under flowing water,
and cut in shape of “bells” – pieces approxi-
mately 3-4cm thick, and add a grain of salt.
(You can use carp’s head, as well as smaller
pieces around the tail, to prepare fish soup).
In deeper bowl, with lot of olive oil, although you can use mix of olive and sunflower
oil, stew at least one kilo of well-chopped
onion. It will be even better to add two or
three heads of red onion from Crmnica.
Moreover, you can never add too much onion!
Wash and sink in luke-warm water half kilos
of dry plums, and let them stay there until
they bloat a bit.
Prepare 200 to 300g of rice (it depends on
your taste, appetite, and of course, on number of persons you will have on lunch), add
pepper, wine and laurel.
Put stewed onions into deep, bigger baking pan, and cover the entire bottom of
the pan. Add rice and part of the plums,
and then mix it all. Roll “bell”-shaped pieces
of carp into flour, and put in baking pan by
making some space for the fish among rice.
Put more plums among pieces of fish. Add
more oil, because it will make fish, and even
rice, tastier. Add salt, pepper, and pour larger glass of water. Put in oven heated up to
200 or 220 degrees. After ten to fifteen minutes, you will be able to tell how fast the
rice absorbs the fluid, so you will know how
much wine to pour into this dish.
Take the pan out of oven, add red wine, the
rest of plums and leaves of laurel, and quickly return into oven. You will need at least
one, or two glasses of wine, but you can
add a bit of water, especially if you put too
much rice.
Carp prepared in the way they make it in
Podgorica, must be baked approximately
an hour, but on temperatures greater than
200 degrees, so that all the flavors and tastes could melt together, and create unique
taste of this specialty from Podgorica. Do
not roll over, mix, separate, or in any other
way disturb “the bells” – let them chime their song in hot oven, salted, and sweet from
the plum juice. The only permitted interventions are adding more water, wine or oil.
When the dish is prepared, let it stay in the
oven until serving. Because, the worst thing
that can happen to the fish, is to get cold
before the guests arrive. However, many
gourmets claim that carp prepared this way
is as tasty when cold as when served warm.
The rice, however, does not have this feature of staying tasteful when cold so, just in
case, keep the dish warm.
Serve the dish without or after fish soup,
along with lettuce and mandatory – wine!
Although, there is still dispute whether it is
better to drink red or white wine with freshwater fish, the most sincere advice we can
give you is – that it is all the same! Carp is
true dish from Podgorica, with imperial generosity that allows all what heart, or the
palate desires. Also, being imperial, it is not
recommendable to eat it alone!
So, let the glasses and good mood “ring”
with “bells”, and you will get any other pieces of advice, from the satisfied people you
fed so magnificently.
Bon appetite!
151
sve prošlo i u sve buduće, strpljivo me poziva na
ručak, još strpljivije mi na četrdeset stepeni pegla,
tiha uđe u moju sobu i okači bijelu košulju na vidno mjesto, još tiša odlazi sama u prodavicu, na pijacu, i bez riječi čeka goste na stanici. Otuda ih
dovodi sve brišući znoj sa čela, ponekad ju čujem
kako teško diše dok se penje uz stepenice, ali nikad
ničim ne odaje da joj je teško ili da joj je dodijala
moja lijenost, moja odsutnost, moj jad. Vrijedna i
ćutljiva, moja sveznalica radi kao da sam ja starac,
a ona podmlađena, osnažena i nesalomiva.
PRIČAM TI PRIČU
Drugačije je, nema što, sve je drugačije…
HODAM JA PO
PIJESKU, KAD
TAMO…
Piše: Nada Bukilić
Z
ažareno nebo mi pritislo vrat, ramena bolna od vrelog tereta i jedva vučem nogu
pred nogu. Ovog puta je drugačije.
Volim ja ljeto i volim tu nebesku zvijezdu, ne smeta što mi ispeče lice da bivam nalik roblju sa plantaža; ne smeta i nikad mi nije smetalo što istopi
asfalt i što mi se patike vazda lijepe za njega – thja,
kako bi kad sam mlad! Ipak, sada je nešto drugačije. A samo je godina prošla, pa ni cijela, od kad
sam isto ovako gazio kejom, zapaljen ljetom, a
oran i svjež. Koliko juče, nosio sam suncobrane
ublijeđelim gospođicama iz kontinentalnih kraje152
va, trčao po sladoled komšijskoj dječurliji i igrao
picigin sa lokalnim mangupima, vazda začuđen što
ljudi psuju vrućinu… koliko juče, sreo sam nju
i… Eto, ovo ljeto je zbog nje drugačije.
Žari mi po vratu i znoj se sliva naprijed, niz grudi.
Majica mi je već mokra. Svlačim se - što ću, prevruće je. Koračam po vrelom asfaltu, jedva iz njega
vadeći noge. Da me sad majka zamoli da trknem
do prodavnice ili da joj sačekam gošće na autobuskoj stanici, mislim da bih se onesvijestio.
A ona, kao da sve zna. Ćuti. Kao da ima uvid i u
Odvukoh se do kafića u komšiluku. Tamo ću
na jednom mjestu naći i cigarete i pivo i kafu.
Naravno, i novine. Što da mlatim do kraja ulice.
Sijedam za prvi prazni sto. A onda vidim da su i
ostali stolovi jednako prazni. Samo tamo unutra,
za šankom, lokalni lero ispija svoje piće i priča naglas, sam sa sobom, sa svima koje je ikad sreo i sa
bogom. On, naravno, zamišlja da je kafić pun i da
ga sluša stotina ušiju, napinje se da izgovori cjelovito i one komplikovanije riječi, da, pijan, dokaže
svoju elokventnost, tim prije što ga, po njegovoj
uobrazilji, slušaju i Pero i Janko i predsjednik opštine, kome redovno psuje oca lopovskog, i Sava
i Nikola koji mu je „spava’ sa ženom dok je bio u
ribanje”… I sve ih redom proziva, vazda po istom
rasporedu i bez greške, a boga zove za svjedoka,
zatim se zalijeće da im konačno kaže što misli o
njima, i ni malo mu ne smeta što je predsjednik
opštine sada sasvim drugi čovjek, pa ni to što je
Nikola pokojni. On, jednostavno, ne prihvata te
„sitne činjenice” kao značajnu stvar: „To što ti više
nijesi pres’ednik, baš me briga! Jednako si govedo
ka’ kad si bio… a ti, Nikola, džabe si umro, čuj me
dobro! Nemoj da se kriješ iza ne... nerel… nerelevantnih činjenica! Ne! I otud će te, đe god da si,
išćerat’ jer si gad, ti ćeš i tamo tuđe žene obrtat’…
e, ali tamo će ti reć’: Mrš! Mrš, fukaro!... e, jes…
ali, ali, ja ću, bog mi je svjedok, ja… ja ću jed-
nom sve, sve da ispričam, da svima kažem ko ste
vi, bando jedna, banditska… Jednom ću ja progovoriti! ‘Oću! Vidjećete!... Mali, daj još jedno!”
Mali od kafića pritrčava, donosi još jedno piće, ni
malo umoran što mu lično, na svaku „prozivku”
odgovara, čas kao Pero ili Janko, čas kao predsjednik opštine ili siroti Nikola. Naprotiv, Malome je
to jedina zabava u rano popodne, dok još nema
gostiju i dok drijemaju i turisti i muve i komarci, svi zabavljeni hvatanjem zraka iz vrelih visina
neba. Zato Mali, kad god pijani siromah priprijeti, odgovara: „E, nećeš, vala, nikad!” I tako se njih
dvojica nadgornjavaju i jedan drugoga zabavljaju
dok se sunce duboko udavi i dok sjenka pokrije
čitav brijeg nad gradom, a duž pristana zasvijetle
ulične lampe. Kad počnu gosti pristizati, pijanac
se ućuti, a Mali se rastrči od stola do stola, sabirajući troškove u glavi, tako brzo i tako sigurno kao
da mu je, s rođenjem, u glavu ubačen digitron sa
sve četiri računske operacije, pa sada samo to zna
raditi.
Znam, tako će proći i ovo popodne. “Mali,” viknuh, “daj mi novine!” “Koje ćeš”, pita iz tamnih
usta kafane. “Svejedno, velim, samo nek su štampane”. I Mali dotrča, donese novina i novina.
Gledam: osunčane ljepotice na naslovnicama, rumena dječica slikana sa sladoledima, pa pljačka
banke u susjedstvu, političari smjenjuju jedan drugoga, turistička sezona u zenitu, temperature u porastu, avioni lete na daleke destinacije, sin našao
oca poslije dvadeset godina… baš zanimljive novine. Prelistavam i, kao, čitam. Tražim nešto između
olovnih slova, niz umrljane listove dnevne štampe,
uz plavi rub stranice čitam nerazumljive Posljednje
vijesti… Odjednom mi se oglasi učiniše mnogo
bitni. Čitam studiozno jedan po jedan, upoređujem kvadrature kuća sa navedenim cijenama, razmišljam kako mora izgledati ta kuća koju vlasnik
žurno prodaje, čini mi se bud’ zašto, ili, pak – nevjerovatno skupo, i pitam se što je sa ljudima… A
153
onda, pri dnu stranice, među tzv. ličnim oglasima,
jedan ovakav: „Čekam te na starom mjestu svakog
dana u naše vrijeme – ako još važi smjena predsjednika opštine. Dođi bos, čuvam tvoje papuče!
Ja”
Hladni znoj me obli cijelog. Srce zaigra kao lopta
u obruču. U očima i pred očima, u meni i vani,
neka čudna, vrela tama – blista crni sjaj, kao da
sunce gori. „Ako važi...”, pita ludača moja? Ne vidim, ne čujem, ne mislim i ne znam ništa drugo
do to da – važi! Itekako važi svaka smjena na ovom
svijetu!
Ostah tako bar po ure. Ni rukom ne makoh, ni
čašu ne takoh.
Konačno, izvadih nešto novca, bacih na sto i krenuh. Za mnom još zaječa: „Vidjećete vi, reći ću
vam ja, jednom, sve…” a i zamršeni glas Malog
me, pri odlasku dohvati jednim izračunatim:
„Hvala!”, te se, okrilaćen, lako spustih do ulice,
a onda još lakše, preskačući oleandre i komšijsko
cvijeće, dospjeh u naše dvorište.
Kao da se sunce neznatno spustilo ka zapadnim
krovovima i kao da je nebo nešto sivlje nego prije, naše dvorište mi se učinje mirnije, spokojnije.
Vidjeh bubamaru na majčinoj kameliji, čuh kako
iz kaveza u prozoru, pjevuši moj kanarinac Kana,
primijetih čak i komšinice koje su me sa posebnim
zanimanjem gledale, i umalo se sudarih sa tacnom
na kojoj je majka iznosila kafu i kolačiće. Uzeh joj
posluženje iz ruku, sagoh se i poljubih ju u prosijedu kosu, a onda odoh ka znatiželjnim ženama
i svakoj, uz kompliment, dodadoh vruću šoljicu.
Majka se na brzinu prekrstila; znam, jer poznajem šum njenih tankih ruku i kad se češlja i kad se
uljepšava karminom i kad maramicom briše orošeno čelo, pa i kad se krsti. Nasmijah se i utrčah
uz stepenice. Odozdo, majka viknu: „Bijela ti je
opeglana!” Vrijedna moja sveznalica – ona zna i što
mi se desilo i zašto sam najednom veseo i što ću da
154
odjenem i kuda ću sada, sve…
I tako, hodam ja, koračam i brz i bos po vrelom
pijesku – ni tereta na ramenima, ni vreline za vratom. Sve mi je da ne može biti bolje! Mislim da
sam stigao u pravo vrijeme, iako nijesam siguran
da smo nas dvoje prošlog ljeta uopšte imali neko
vrijeme koje je bilo pogrešno ili tuđe. Nije li svejedno kad ću ja doći, sad kad je ona sigurno tu?
Koračam i onda, na tom našem mjestu - iako ne
znam po čemu je baš ono naše: obišli smo, prošli, ljubili se i grlili na gotovo svakom pedlju ove
dugačke plaže - ugledah moje stare papuče. Pored,
njena nova torba, narandžasta. Znam da je baš
njena jer samo ona voli te blesave, drečave boje.
Legoh, glavom uz torbu. Zatvorih oči. Vazduh je
mirisao na nju. I pijesak je imao isti miris. I nova
torba je mirisala kao ona i cijeli moj život, od onih
prvih, smotanih poljubaca, pa sve do ovog današnjeg ljubavnog pisma u oglasima, sve je isto mirisalo. Na pravu, jedinstvenu ljubav.
Otuda, sa vode, čuo sam kako me ona doziva. Čuo
sam kako se nad vrelim pijeskom rasipa moje ime
na hiljade i hiljade malih, smiješnih i srećnih zvukova.
Čuo sam i more – pljuska istim ritmom i trne nazad, nemoćno.
Okrenuh se u stranu, torbu stavih pod glavu i nasmijan pod suncem zaspah.
RESTAURANT
PROVATivat
Let me tell you a story
I was strolling
on the sand,
when all of a
sudden…
By: Nada Bukilić
S
corching sky pressed my neck, and with
shoulders aching from the painful burden,
I barely drag along the way. This time it is
different.
Txt: Oh, I love summer, and the scorching star, I
even don’t mind it burns my face and makes me
look like a plantation slave; I don’t mind, and I
never have, the way it makes the asphalt melt and
make my sneakers always glued to it – oh, well,
how could I mind when I’m young! However, this
time things are different. Only a year passed by,
and not even a whole year, since I last paced along
the quay, burned by summer, yet enthusiastic and
fresh. It seems like yesterday when I carried parasols for pale misses from continental parts of the
country, ran to get ice cream for kids from the
neighborhood and played with in water with local
rascals, constantly amazed why people curse the
heat…it was yesterday when I met her and… This
156
summer is different because of her.
My neck is burning, and the sweat drips forward,
down the chest. My shirt is already soaked. I take
it off – what else could I do, it is way too hot. I
pace the hot asphalt, barely pulling my feet out of
it. If my mother asks me now to go to the store,
or wait for her guests on bus station, I think I will
pass out.
And mother, as if she knows everything. She keeps
quiet. As if she can see all that was and all that will
be, she patiently calls me to come for lunch, even
more patiently irons for me on 40 degrees, quietly
enters my room and hangs the shirt where I can
see it, even more quietly goes to the store, on grocery market, and without saying a word, waits for
the guests on the station. She brings them home,
wiping the sweat off her forehead, I sometimes hear her heavy breathing while mounting the stairs,
but she never shows that anything is hard for her,
or that she is weary from my laziness, my absence, my misery. Diligent and quiet, my all-knowing
mother works as if I am the old man, and she - rejuvenated, empowered and unbreakable.
It is different definitely, everything is different…
I dragged myself to a café in neighborhood. I can
find cigarettes, beer and coffee, all in one place.
And newspaper, of course. Why bother going
further to the end of the street.
I take the first empty table. Then I notice that
all the other tables are empty as well. Only inside, behind the bar, local drunk sips his drink and
talks out loud to himself, to anyone he has ever
met, and to god. He is, of course, imagining that
the cafe is full, and that hundred of people listen
to his words; he struggles to pronounce correctly
even the complicated ones, to, prove his eloquence, although he is drunk, even more because in
his imagination Pero, and Janko, the local mayor,
whose father he curses, are listening to him, and
also Sava and Nikola, who slept with his wife
once he went fishing… And he calls on everyone of them, always in the same order making no
mistake, and calls upon a God for witness, then
charges to finally tell them everything he thinks
about them, and he doesn’t care a bit that today
the mayor is completely different man, and that
Nikola is dead. He, simply, doesn’t see those “minor facts” as important:“ I don’t care you’re not the
mayor any more! You are as bad now as when you
were a mayor...and you, Nikola, you died in vain,
hear me out! Don’t hide behind ir… irrel… irrelevant facts! No! They will kick you out from wherever you are, because you are bastard, and you will
sleep with other peoples’ wives…but they will tell
you:“ Go away! Go away, you bastard!... oh, yes…
but, I will, God is my witness, I…I will tell everything once, I’ll tell everyone who you are, a gang,
bastards… I will talk some day! Oh, I will! You’ll
see!... Kid, give me another one!”
Kid comes hastily, bringing another drink, not
at least tired of answering to every single provocation, pretending to be Pero, or Janko, or even
the mayor or the poor, deceased Nikola. Quite
the contratry. It is the only amusement for Kid
in early afternoon, while the guests are still away,
and tourists, flies and mosquitoes drowse, busy
by catching some air from the hot heights of the
sky. So Kid, whenever the poor, drunk guy makes a threat, answers:“ No, you won’t! Never, let
me tell you!” And they dispute, and amuse each
other, until the sun drowns in the depth and shadow covers entire hill upon the town, and street
lamps start casting light upon the port. When
guests start arriving, the drunk guy stops talking,
and Kid starts working among tables, calculating
bills in his head, so quickly, and so accurately, as
if the calculator with all four mathematical operations was planted inside his head on birth, so it is
the only thing he can do.
I know that this afternoon will pass that same
way. “Kid”, I yelled, “Bring me the newspaper!”
“Which one”, his voice reaches me from the dark
mouth of the cafe. “Whatever”, I reply, “As long as
they are printed.” Therefore, Kid comes, bringing
piles of newspapers.
And I watch: sun-tanned gorgeous girls on covers,
healthy kids photographed with ice creams, then
bank robbery in the neighborhood, politicians dismiss one another, tourist season at it’s pike, temperatures rising, planes flying to far-away destinations, son found his father after twenty years…
some interesting papers. I leaf through them, and
pretend to read. I search for something amongst leaden letters, down the stained sheets of daily
press, along the blue edge I read indistinct Latest
news…Suddenly, the ads seemed extremely important. I read carefully one by one, comparing
the squaring of the houses with their prices, thinking what the house must be like that the owner
157
so readily sells, in my opinion, in so low price, or
however – unbelievably pricey, and I wonder, what
is the matter with those people… And then, on
the bottom of the page, among so called “personal ads”, there is one with the following content:“
I am waiting for you in the old place every day
in our time – if the mayor’s shift is still the same.
Come barefoot, I still keep your beach shoes! Me”
combing her hair, putting a lipstick on, wiping
sweaty forehead, or even making a sign of the cross. I laughed and ran upstairs. From downstairs,
mother yelled:“ The white one is ironed!” My diligent, omni-knowing mother – she knew what had
happened to me, why I became suddenly so cheerful, what will I wear, and what will I do, everything…
Cold sweat poured down my back. My heart leaped. In my eyes, and in front of my eyes, inside
and outside of me, some strange, hot darkness –
black shine radiating, as if the sun burns. “If it’s
still the same…” asks my crazy girl? I cannot see,
I cannot hear and do not know anything but the
fact that it is still the same! It is so same, every shift
in this world!
I remained in such condition for at least half an
hour. I did not even move my hand, nor touched
the glass.
Therefore, I walk, barefoot, quickly on scorching
sand – no weight on my shoulders, no heat behind
my neck. It is as good as it gets! I think I arrived at
the right time, although I am not so sure we had
any time that was wrong or belonged to someone
else that last summer. Is it not all the same when
I would arrive, now that she is certainly there? I
walk, and then, on that very our place – although
I cannot tell why exactly is this ours: we walked
along, kissed and hugged on almost every inch of
this long beach – I saw my old beach shoes. Beside
them, her new bag, orange. I know it is hers because only she likes those silly, garish colours. I lie
down, head next to the bag. I closed my eyes. The
air smelled like her. The sand had the same scent.
Her new bag smelled like her and my whole life from the first, clumsy kisses, to this love letter in
today’s newspaper - everything smelled the same.
It had the smell of unique, true love.
Finally, I took out some money, threw it on table
and moved on. I heard an echo:“ You will all see
someday, I will tell everything…” and tangled voice of Kid saying one calculated:“ Thank you!”; so
easily, as if I had wings, I went down to the street,
and then, even lighter, jumping over oleanders and
neighbors’ flowers, I reached our backyard.
It seemed that sun slightly sunk towards western
roofs, and that sky is somewhat greyer than before,
and our backyard seemed to me calmer and more
serene. I saw a ladybug on my mother’s camellia, I
heard my canary bird Kana singing from his crate
in window, I even noticed neighbors who looked
at me with special interest, and I almost crashed
into my mother’s tray on which she carried coffee
and cookies. I took the tray out of her hands, bent
down and kissed her grizzled hair, and then went
towards curious women and gave each her cup of
hot coffee along with the compliment. Mother
made the sign of the cross; I know, because I can
tell by the sound of her thin arms whether she is
158
ADVERTISING AGENCY &
PRINTING DEVELOPMENT
OFFSET &
DIGITAL PRINT
SUPPORTED BY
Over there, from water, I heard her calling me. I
heard my name dispersed into thousands and thousands small, funny and happy sounds, over the
scorching sand.
I heard the sea also – it splashed in the same
rhythm, and returned back, helplessly.
I turned on the other side, put the bag under my
head and, smiling under the sun, fell asleep.
Omladinskih Br igada 16
81 000 Podgor ica
e-mail: [email protected]
Ph: +382 20 210 925
Montenegro
Rembo
Moja je mudrost prezrena kao i haos.
Zato sam udvostručio smrt
pokazujući svijetu svoje odvratnosti
i moja izdajstva.
CRNOGORSKA SAVREMENA POEZIJA, Milorad Popović
Nikad neću vidjeti Buenos Aires
Moj đed Boško Petrov
bio je naočit emigrant:
bjeloputi dvometraš
s tankim crnim brkom
nije morao
kao njegova tri brata
da crnči u pampasima
i rudnicima Gran Čaka.
Boško je bio gospodin
sa srebrnim satom
u džepu prsluka:
prodavao je karte putnicima
na trajektu “Palermo”
koji ih je prevozio
preko River Plate.
Moja baba Zlatana
iz istog je plemena.
Boško je bio nostalgičan.
Zlatana je voljela Buenos Aires:
uživala je u vrevi
širokih bulevara
u vrevi velegradskih izloga
u vrevi slovenskih i romanskih
narječja
pa i samo sjećanje
na bezvodno podlovćensko tlo
i ona uvijek stroga prijeka lica
nekako je bilo sumračno.
Njihov sin je rođen
u sirotinjskoj bolnici
“Sveti Ignjacio Lojola”.
Boško je imao plan:
kupio je brodsku kartu za Napulj
kriomice uzeo šestomjesečnog sina
i na brodu ga na čuvanje
predao sestri Antoniji
benediktinki iz Siverića
160
koja se vraćala u Dalmaciju.
Zlatana se preudala
i rodila četiri sina
četiri Latino-Crnogorca
kao četiri zlatne jabuke.
Pod starost je kupila kuću u Obligadu.
Predveče je sjedjela
na trijemu svoje skromne kuće
u sjenci krošnje jakarande
leđa zgrbljenih od pamćenja
koje je čas izdavalo
čas narastalo ko ogromna grba.
Mlađa snaha Marija Ester
uvijek bi u isto vrijeme
na mušemu punu mrtvih ljetnjih
mušica
postavila crnu kafu
i dvije kocke cukra.
Gotovo svakodnevno
nekako istovremeno
po izlasku mlade potrenje
na trijem
trotoarom je prolazio
u pratnji mlađe vitkonoge žene
mali čovjek ukočenog hoda
s šeširom i bijelim štapom.
Babin ispisnik
Horhe Luis Borhes.
Da je đed ostao u Argentini
moja bi sudbina bila svakako
poetskija.
Postao bih komunistički sindikalista
tukao se s peronistima
i lokalnim crnoberzijancima u ulici
Boelo.
Imao bih petoro crnopute djece.
U mojem malotiražnom časopisu
sarađivao bi Gižermo Martinez.
U kafani “Ćipur” na Aveniji de Majo
subotom bih se sastajao
s potomcima crnogorskih emigranata:
kartali bismo mauz
u sitan novac
i pili tekilu.
Poslije druge ispražnjene boce
čitao bih im prijevode pjesama
o nostalgiji, domovini i seksu
Hrvata Borisa Marune.
Putovao bih u Albaniju
s Ernestom Sabatom
dobitnikom književne nagrade
“Velija”.
Posjetio bih Rozafu
tvrđavu rascvale sjete
dlanom dodirnuo mrki kamen
i pogladio obnaženi krečmlijeko mlade Gojkovice.
Primaknuo bih se
na zov golog brda
uz golobrdinu Bardanjolta
graničnoj crti
susjedne zemlje na zapadu:
mutni izlivi taloženih
i posustalih prenošenih sjećanja
mamili bi me prema Jezerskom vrhu
koji se nekako zaoblio
kao usnuli medvjedali ne bih posjetio
domovinu mojih predaka.
Kao što i ja nikad neću
vidjeti Buenos Aires.
Moja je pubuna osobita
jer pripadam najnižoj rasi od pamtivijeka
kojoj je grabež
svrha svakog ustanka.
Što je moje ništavilo
pred obamrlošću koja čeka vas
što je moja velika kosa svjetlosti
pred vama koji ste robovi i vojnici navika.
Majstor u fantazmagorijama
postao je trgovac oružjem
jer duša je teška
a ne prah.
Slike: Milo - Mićo Vuković
161
Rimbaud
MODERN MONTENEGRIN POETRY, Milorad Popović
I Will Never See Buenos Aires
My rebellion is of a special kind
because I belong to the smallest breed ever
the one that sees looting
as the purpose of any uprising.
Translated by: Zoran Paunović
Paintings: Milo - Mićo Vuković
My grandfather Boško Petrov
was a handsome émigré:
pale-faced and two metres tall
with slim black moustache
he did not nave to
like his three brothers
to drudge in the pampases
and mines of Gran Chaco.
Boško was a gentleman
with a silver watch
in his waistcoat pocket:
he was selling tickets
on ’Palermo’ ferry
to the passengers who went
across the River Plate.
My grandmother Zlatana
was from the same tribe.
Boško was nostalgic.
Zlatana loved Buenos Aires:
she enjoyed the turmoil
of broad boulevards
turmoil of the city shopwindows
turmoil of Slavonic and Roman
dialects
even the mere memory
of waterless soil under Lovćen
and of those stern, curt faces
was somehow gloomy.
Their son was born
in a hospital for the poor
named ’St. Ignazio Loyola’.
Boško had a plan:
he bought a boat ticket to Naples
furtively took his six-month old son
and on the ship
gave him to Sister Antonia
a Benedictine nun from Siverić
going back to Dalmatia.
Then Zlatana remarried
and gave birth to four sons
four Latin-Montenegrins
162
like four golden apples.
When she grew old she bought a
house in Obligado.
In the evenings she would sit
on the porch of her modest house
in the shadow of a jacaranda tree
her back hunched from memory
that could fail at one moment
but grow like a big hunch in the very
next.
Maria Ester, her young daughter-inlaw
always at the same time
on the oilcloth full of dead summer
flies
used to put a cup of black coffee
and two sugarcubes.
Almost every day
and somehow always at the same time
after the young woman’s appearance
on the porch
a small man with stiff step
with a hat and a white stick
followed by a young slim-legged
woman
would pass down the pavement.
It was my grandmather’s coeval
Jorge Luis Borges.
Had grandfather stayed in Argentina
my fate would surely have been more
poetical.
I would have become a communist
trade union activist
in a fight with Peronists
and local black-marketeers in Boelo
Street.
I would have had five dark-tanned
children.
Guillermo Martinez would have been
a contributor
My wisdom is despised just like chaos.
That is why I doubled my death
showing my hideousness to the world
and my betrayals too.
In my magazine with small
circulation.
On Saturdays
in ’Ćipur’ café on Avenia de Mayo
I would have had meetings
with the descendants of Montenegrin
emigrés:
playing cards
for small stakes
drinking tequilla.
And after second bottle
I would have read to them
translations of poems
about nostalgia, homeland and sex
by Croatian poet Boris Maruna.
I would have travelled to Albania
With Ernesto Sabato
the laureate of ’Velija’ literary award.
I would have visited Rosafa
the fortress of blooming melancholy.
I would have touched the dark stone
with my palm
caressing naked lime –
young Gojkovica’s milk.
I would have come closer
at the call of the bare hill
beside arid Bardanyolto
the borderline
of the adjacent country in the west:
murky oputpour of layered
and exhausted, transferred memories
would have enticed me towards Lake
point
somehow rounded
like a sleeping bear –
but I would not have visited
the homeland of my ancestors.
What is my nothingness
compared to numbness that waits for you
what is my huge slope of light
to you who are slaves and soldiers of habits.
A master of phantasmagoria
became a weapons-merchant
because the soul is heavy
it is not dust.
Just like I will never
See Buenos Aires.
163
ANKONA
PALERMO
KATANIJA
KONTAKTI CONTACTS
www.montenegroairlines.com
Direkcija
Head office
Beogradska 10, 81000 Podgorica
Montenegro (Serbia & Montenegro)
++ 382 20 405 500
++ 382 20 405 501
++ 382 20 405 548 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Informacije i rezervacije
Booking
++ 382 20 9804
++ 382 20 405 543 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Komercijalni sektor
Commerce department
++ 382 20 405 533
++ 382 20 405 535 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Sektor za marketing
i korporativne komunikacije
Marketing & Corporative
Communications Department
++ 382 20 405 538
++ 382 20 405 537 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
POSLOVNICE
Offices
Podgorica
Slobode 23, 81 000 Podgorica
++ 382 20 664 411
++ 382 20 664 433
++ 382 20 665 291 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Beograd / Belgrade
Knez Mihailova 23, 11 000 Beograd
++ 381 11 2621 122
++ 381 11 3036 535
++ 381 11 3036 536
++ 381 11 2181 861 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Budva
Slovenska obala bb, 86 000 Budva
++ 382 33 451 735
++ 382 33 456 244
++ 382 33 454 900 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
168
Kotor
Stari grad 320, Zgrada turističkog fakulteta
++ 382 32 304 860
++ 382 32 304 861
++ 382 32 304 864
++ 382 32 304 865 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Beč / Vienna
Kaiserstr. 86, 1070 Vienna
++ 43 664 3 111 405
++ 43 179 639 35
e-mail: [email protected]
Cirih / Zurich
Kopenhagen - Quality Air Tours
Adresa: Vester Voldgade 96, 4 sprat
1552 Copenhagen V, Denmark
Telefon: + 45 33 11 33 16
Fax: + 45 33 11 54 55
e-mail: [email protected]
DIMENZIJE/DIMENSIONS
Razmah krila / Wing span
Ukupna dužina / Total lenght Ukupna visina / Total height
Prečnik trupa / Fuselage diameter
Površina krila / Wing area
Šalteri na
aerodromima
Airport offices
PERFORMANSE / PERFORMANCE
Max brzina leta / Max operating speed Max brzina leta / Max operating speed
Max visina leta / Max operating altitude Podgorica
Frankfurt
++ 382 32 670 500
++ 382 32 670 501 fax
++ 382 67 670 500 (GSM)
Rim / Rome
Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci,
Terminal 2, 00187 Roma
++ 39 06 6595 8661
e-mail: [email protected]
Pariz / Paris
140, avenue Champs Elyseés,
75008 Paris
++ 33 1 70 36 19 07
++ 33 1 70 36 19 08 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
London
Grosvenor Gardens House, suite 112/3th floor
35-37 Grosvenor Gardens
London SW1W 0BS, United Kingdom
++ 44 (0) 207 8644 031
++ 44 (0) 207 8644 032
++ 44 (0) 207 8644 033 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
www.montenegroairlines.com
Kopenhagen / Copenhagen
Postfach 2419, 8058 Flughafen, Terminal 2
++ 41 43 816 7876
++ 41 43 816 7877
++ 41 43 816 7878
++ 41 43 816 7884 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Terminal 2, halle d, 60547 Frankfurt am Main
++ 49 69 28 23 74
++ 49 69 28 11 76 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
FLOTAFLEET
++ 382 20 445 105
++ 382 20 445 160 fax
++ 382 20 67 624 524 (GSM)
TEŽINE / WEIGHTS
Max težina bez goriva / Max zero fuel weight Max težina na polijetanju / Max take-off weight Max težina na slijetanju / Max landing weight
28.08 m
35.53 m
8.50 m
3.30 m
93.5 m2
92 ft 1.4in
116 ft 6.8 in
27 ft 10.5 in
10 ft 9.92 in
1006.5 sq ft
320 kts CAS
0,77 M
10.668 m
35000 ft
35835 kg
43090 kg
38780 kg
79000 lb
95000 lb
85500 lb
39 ft 8 in
(12.08 m)
Tivat
Beograd
++ 381 11 228 6241
++ 381 11 209 400 (lokal 7302)
Ljubljana
Letališče Brnik, 4210 Brnik
Passenger Service
++ 386 4 2594 252
++ 386 4 2594 245
Moskva / Moscow
Montenegro Airlines
Aerodrom Domodedovo, kancelarija 3.57
Tel: + 74 95 28 715 25
Fax: + 74 95 28 715 26
e-mail: [email protected]
Spoljne dimenzije / External Dimensions
Razmah krila / Wingspan
Ukupna dužina / Length Overall
Ukupna visina / Height Overall
Razmah horizontalnog stabilizatora / Horizontal Stabilizer Span
Širina trupa / Fuselage Width
Visina trupa / Fuselage Height
Unutrašnje dimenzije / Internal Dimensions
Dužina putničke kabine / Cabin Length
Širina putničke kabine / Cabin Width
Visina putničke kabine / Cabin Height
Širina prolaza između sjedišta / Aisle Width
Širina sjedišta / Seat Width
94ft 3in
126ft 10in
34ft 7in
39ft 8in
9ft 11in
11ft 0in
92ft 5in
9ft 0in
6ft 7in
19.75in
18.25in
28.72m
38.65m
10.55m
12.08m
3.01m
3.35m
28.17m
2.74m
2.00m
0.50m
0.46m
94 ft 3 in
(28.72 m)
Moskva / Moscow
Montenegro Airlines
Kadesevskaja nabereznaja, br.6/1/2 str. 1.
Tel: +7 499 230 16 73
e-mail: [email protected]
39 ft 8 in
(12.08 m)
Niš
Montenegro Airlines Niš
ul. Vazduhoplovaca 24
18000 Niš
tel/fax +381 18 4 583 336
169
Destinacije
ljeto 2012.
Destinations
Destinacije
summer 2012
ljeto 2012.
Destinations
summer 2012
CHARTER FLIGHTS
NAUTIČKE MILJE KM
Flight time
NAUTIC MILES
Trajanje leta
(min)
PODGORICA
BEOGRAD/BELGRADE169
313
38
BEČ/VIENNA 43179865
FRANKFURT 7861456115
LJUBLJANA 40174360
RIM/ROME
35365460
CIRIH/ZURICH 6601222105
PARIZ/PARIS 9541764140
LONDON
9601776155
NIŠ
200365,2 35
Kopenhagen
900
1625 160
NAUTIČKE MILJE
KM
Flight time
NAUTIC MILES
Trajanje leta
(min)
PODGORICA
BARI
21239236
NAPOLI
33762454
Brindizi (Brindisi)213
393
40
Istanbul (Istanbul)437
809
80
PETROGRAD/ST. PETERSBURG
1123
2078
180
ANKONA
330610 85
PALERMO
451834 90
Katanija
497 919110
TIVAT
BEOGRAD/BELGRADE190
352
40
MOSKVA/MOSCOW1058
1959
190
Dragi putnici,
Dear passengers,
Molimo poštovane putnike da kontaktiraju Montenegro Airlines
Booking službu (++ 382 20 19804), naša predstavništva ili ovlašćene putničke agencije radi detaljnih informacija o letovima. Please contact Montenegro Airlines central booking service on tel. +382 20 9804, our Branch Offices or authorised
travel agents for flight details.
S poštovanjem, Montenegro Airlines Komercijalni sektor
www.montenegroairlines.com
170
Best regards,
Montenegro Airlines Commercial Department
Na osnovu interline ugovora sa brojnim avio-kompanijama u svijetu,
Based on interline agreements with numerous airlines in the world, you can
kod nas možete kupiti kartu za neku od sledećih destinacija:
buy tickets to some of the following destinations in Montenegro Airlines offices:
iz/from Frankfurt:
Atlanta / Detroit / Chicago / Los Angeles / Miami / New York / Houston / Washinton / Dallas / Singapore / Manila
Kuala Lumpur / Sydney / Toronto / Montreal / Tokyo / Osaka / Rio de Janeiro / Buenos Aires / Caracas / Mexico City
iz/from Rome:
Boston / Miami / Chicago / New York / Washington / Toronto / Beijing
iz/from Wienna:
Toronto / Montreal / Delhi / Beijing / Bangkok / Sydney / Melbourne
171