M app in g B razil Projec - Consulado Geral do Reino dos Países

Transcription

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Mapping Brazil Project \ Fashion
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by: Paula Acioli
Presentation
Introduction
A Brief Description of Fashion in Brazil in the 20th
and 21st Centuries
1. Brazil and Its’ Regions —
Brazilian Fashion Market
1.4. Fashion Weeks in Brazil
2. Fashion and Culture: Technology & Academy
3. Brazilian Fashion and its Cultural Exchanges
Association that Support the Fashion Industry
1.4.1. Main Fashion Week/Shows
Technical Education and
/ Suggestions and Procedures - Brazil & The
in Brazil
in the South-Eastern Region
the Fashion Academy in Brazil
Netherlands
1.2. The Brazilian Fashion Market:
1.5. Brazil Fashion for Export: Some Successes
Habits and Consumer Profile
“Made in Brazil”
1.3. Fashion Business in Brazil
Historic Context
3.1. Final Considerations
1.6. Ecology and Sustainability: Fashion Con-
2.1. From Technical Education to the Boom in
1.3.1. Formal vs. Informal Economy
sciously Uniting Businessmen and Craftsmen
Higher Level Fashion Education of the 90s
1.3.2. Popular Markets, Raft Fairs, Street
1.7. The PET Knit Work
2.2. SENAI-Cetiqt: Education with a Label (Rio
Vendors
1.8. The Osklen Case. A Brazilian Brand Partner
de Janeiro)
Appendix 1. Institutions Offering Academic
1.3.3. Support for Poor Communities and
for Sustainability
2.3. SENAC-Rio: Middle Level (Rio de Janeiro)
Level Education in Fashion or Fashion Design
Hand-Made Crafts for the Fashion Market
1.9. The Scarcity of Organic Raw Materials
2.4. Academic Fashion Education in Private
Appendix 2. Principal Fashion Publications
1.3.4. Brazilian Fashion Centres and its Vital
1.10. Fibres for Export — Organic Cotton in Brazil
Brazilian Schools Chronology
in Brazil
Importance for the Economies of the States
A Reality
2.5. Private Fashion Education in Brazil 21st
Appendix 3. some Noteworthy Designers,
1.3.5. Example of a Fashion Center Rio de
1.11. Economic Solidarity
Century
Stylists and Brazilian Brands/Labels
Janeiro State
1.12. Programa Talentos do Brasil / The Brazil
2.6. Fundação Getúlio Vargas / Getúlio Vargas
Appendix 4 Researcher and Researcher’s As-
1.3.6. Fashion centres in the State of Rio de
Talent Program: Citizenship, Ecology and Sus-
Foundation (FGV — Rio de Janeiro)
sistant Professional Resumes
Janeiro General Characteristics
tainability
2.7. Fashion Courses at “Anhembi
1.3.7. Contemporary Trade Fairs and Mar-
Morumbi” and SENAC-SP (São Paulo)
kets, a National Phenomenon
2.8. Research Institutes and Offices, Fashion
1.3.8. Trade Fairs — Big Business in Brazilian
Consultancy in Rio de Janeiro
Fashion
2.8.1. Instituto Zuzu Angel (Rio de Janeiro)
1.3.9. FENIT: Forerunner of Trade Fairs in
2.8.2. Inbracultmode / Instituto Brasileiro
Brazil and Embryo of Fashion Shows in
de Cultura, Moda e Design (Rio de Janeiro)
Brazil
2.8.3. AZOV Consultoria e Educação
1.3.10. Main Business Fairs of the Fashion
(Rio de Janeiro)
Industry in Brazil
2.8.4. P/A Profashional Pesquisa e
4. Appendixes
1.1. Principal Organizations, Federations and
Consultoria (Rio de Janeiro)
2.8.5. Instituto Rio Moda (Rio de Janeiro)
2.9. Schools and Institutes as Alternatives for
Professionals in São Paulo
2.10. Higher Education Outside the Capitals
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Presentation
This mapping is an overview of Brazilian fashion. It is a thorough and systematic presentation, especially of the
cultural and academic features. The report can be used as a tool to help set up a possible exchange program with
the Netherlands.
Taking into consideration Brazil’s size, diversity, and many other important aspects, the research was
concentrated on the south-eastern region — particularly in the States of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, where the
main local trends are discovered and transferred into wearable fashion, and both considered the most influential cities in Brazil concerning fashion. Other capitals and regions of Brazil, are also very important for Brazilian
fashion (and are expanding steadily), but, many of them are still, greatly under the influences of Rio de Janeiro
and São Paulo lifestyles.
During the writing of this survey an attempt was made to use the most available and up-to-date data.
It’s important to mention that the book Brazil Fashion — A survey of the Brazilian fashion clothing and fashion
industry by Anne Sobotta was also a very helpful source of information during this mapping, not to mention the
excellent work of Janaína Medeiros, my assistant throughout this project, exhaustively checking official data, as
well as websites (used as references and source of information). It is important to point out that due to the Brazilian fashion industry’s dynamism, data is constantly changing, and it is possible that some data are already out of
date. The reader will find a glossary of key information, data and references, including names of fashion institu-
tions and schools, and also a short summary of the most important designers and labels.
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In the 30s the arrival of Jews and Italians
A Brief Overview of Fashion in Brazil
in the 20th and 21st centuries
profound influence on Brazil and the United States of
they were masters. During this period most clothes
America became the reference point for lifestyle and
were imported or made to measure by seamstresses
fashion.
and tailors.
Brazil was discovered in 1500. Throughout its
history from the 16th to the 21st century the
country has absorbed influences from various
cultures, Africa, Asia and Europe — notably
Portuguese, English, French and Dutch
(in the 17th century during the administration
of Johan Mauritz van Nassau-Siegen, in
Pernambuco, in the northeast of the country).
Despite the centuries of history one cannot
speak of “Brazilian fashion” as being an organized,
commercial activity until the 20th century.
Fashion as a commercial activity did not
emerge until the beginning of the 20th century in
Brazil, with — amongst other important facts — the
arrival of many immigrant groups, notably Syrian
and Lebanese - traditional traders especially in
selling clothing, accessories and textiles.
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an industrial scale. The American way-of-life had a
caused an increase in men’s tailoring, a craft in which
With the world depression starting in 1929
During the 60s the market situation in the various regions of the country changed. The south and
Brazil’s economic situation changed considerably.
south-eastern regions, despite being frontrunners in
Due to import limitations the country’s industry was
the fashion sector, saw other cities in the south-east
stimulated to produce clothes and the internal market
and north-east such as Belo Horizonte, Recife and For-
encouraged to buy these products. However, the
taleza begin to develop textile and clothing industries.
clothes produced in the country were still reproduc-
Despite the move of the federal capital to Brasília, Rio
tions of models arriving from abroad.
de Janeiro remained the cultural capital of Brazil and
Immediately after the Second World War the
an important creative Brazilian fashion centre. Casual
copying culture still dominated the Brazilian fashion
fashion is still one of the symbols of the laid-back Rio,
industry. Europe and the luxury clothes models were
even Brazilian, lifestyle. On the other hand São Paulo
still the example for Brazilian fashion. In the main
has more urban character centered on business and is
Brazilian state capitals especially Rio de Janeiro and
still the industrial and financial centre of the country.
São Paulo there were “local versions” of the famous
In the mid 70s the fashion sector became more
Parisian couture houses. The copying of foreign cloth-
aware of the need to become more professional. Cloth-
ing was due to import restrictions on foreign manufac-
ing manufacturers in Rio and São Paulo organized
tured goods (the import duties were very high at that
themselves into groups whilst trying to promote Bra-
time). At the end of the 40s though still under strong
zilian fashion in a more professional and commercial
European influence, a transformation starts to take
manner. This was the case with the Fashion-Group Rio
place in the world fashion industry. Fashion begins to
that organized the then best known names in fashion
turns its attention to the American way of life, that
not only catching the attention of retail buyers in Rio
less luxurious and based on practicality.
but also launching names and styles. However, at the
Until the 50s, Brazilian fashion was still being
time there was no professional and financial infra-
set by European trends and the fashion ateliers in Rio
structure such as there is today, and the Rio Fashion
de Janeiro and São Paulo tried to follow the traditions
Group was disbanded after attempts to organize
of the French couture houses, despite the fact that
events.
they had lost much of their strength and reputation as
At the beginning of the 80s there were only a
time went by. In the post-war period, at the end of the
few prestigious brands known nationally. The clothes
50’ and beginning of the 60s a new market arose with
manufacturers still reproduced the international
different demands such as the prêt-à-porter industry,
trends and what they saw on television or in fashion
the large scale production of cloths and knitwear,
magazines. Shops and street boutiques were com-
the appearance of large fashion trade fairs showing
mon, though this period saw the growth shopping
everything from couture to raw materials such as cot-
malls. This changed the way fashion articles were
ton. The result was that products made by specialists
sold in Brazil. Throughout the 80s the shopping malls
such as tailors, seamstresses and "modistes" slowly
planned innumerable fashion events, that today are
disappeared to such an extent that gradually hand-
seen as the forerunners of the fashion weeks such as
made products were substituted by products made on
Fashion Rio, and the SPFW (São Paulo Fashion Week)
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Introduction
that have a great impact both nationally and interna-
ping centres. There were 72 of them 1991, in 1995
on the map. The growing recognition of our fashion
tionally. Also, due to increased demand the fashion
there were 121, and by the end of 2008 the number
designers, as well as appreciation of the Brazilian life-
ACM, traditional knitwear manufacturers from the
industry started to organize seminars and conferences
should be around 700. In 2000 sales in shopping malls
style (the open-air, sports, beach, etc.), has been of
State of Santa Catarina acquired the brands: Fórum,
on the subject.
exceeded US$ 10 billion; this period also showed a
great value to Brazilian fashion during the last couple
Triton and Fórum Tufi Duek, adding to their stable
boom in educational institutes providing fashion
of years. All these factors have contributed to the
consisting of Colcci, Sommer, Coca-Cola Clothing,
courses; something that only really took of in the 80s.
formation of a new Brazilian fashion identity, and the
Carmelitas and Malhas Menegotti. In September 2008
strengthening of Brazil’s positive image abroad.
the Brazilian stylist Carlos Miele owner of the M. Of-
Until the beginning of the 90s, Brazil’s clothing
production was mainly aimed towards the internal
market. Due to import restrictions and import taxes
Currently, people frequently mention the BRIC
ficer and Carlos Miele brands announced his first public
financial crisis in emerging markets which momen-
countries (Brazil, Russia, India and China), which are
offering, being one of the first Brazilian fashion brands
administration at the beginning of the 90s import re-
tarily affected the development of Brazil. However
believed to become the world’s greatest markets of
to go public.
strictions were lifted. Brazilian fashion went through
the country is known for its capacity to overcome
the third millennium. The four countries have been
a profound change. With imports being allowed into
the effects of economic crises (internal and external)
gaining the attention of the world’s multinational
commerce. Culture, technology, and education in Bra-
the country companies and industries began “a rush
reacted once more.
companies and powerful financial groups. Various for-
zil have turned to the industry. Increasingly associa-
eign companies have invested in examining openings
tions and partnerships between companies (national
the sale of imported fashion products was low.
During president Fernando Collor de Melo’s
to find the consumer”. Specialization in the Brazilian
The growing internationalization of the cloth-
Today Fashion in Brazil is not only restricted to
fashion industry became increasingly urgent now
ing market and the growth of the national product
and opportunities in various sectors of the Brazilian
and foreign); educational institutions, professionals,
that it was faced with competition from foreign made
has increasingly attracted foreign investment. The
market, including fashion.
artisans and low income communities determine
imports — at that imported from the United States and
strengthened professionalism of Brazilian industry
In this first decade of the 21st century the
Brazilian contemporary fashion. Globalization and the
Europe, both known for their fashion tradition and
has led to the merger of companies and their conse-
Brazilian fashion market has been profoundly affected
macro-trends in the international scene are drafting a
quality of their products. Later the Asians despite the
quent growth. This fact has seen a significant increase
by the effects of globalization and other contempo-
new map of Brazilian fashion in the third millennium.
barely acceptable quality of their goods gained market
in technology investments in the Brazilian clothing
rary international economic phenomena. The trend in
Ecology and the environment, technology, community
share due to their competitive prices.
sector.
mergers and acquisitions in fashion brands and labels,
events, knowledge, education, culture exchanges, etc.
already existent in Europe and the US since the 90s
are some of the subjects of the contemporary world
are also gaining importance in Brazil.
agenda and also of Brazil.
Nowadays, Brazil occupies an outstanding posi-
more than 700% in value and more than 2.244%
tion in the national and international fashion scene,
in volume. Large international chains such as the
due to president Luis Inácio Lula da Silva government
American chain J.C. Penny and the Dutch C&A began
and also due to the association of the country’s im-
banks have begun to form consortia to acquire presti-
to invest massively in the Brazilian market directing
age to Rio de Janeiro and various favourable external
gious Brazilian fashion brands, following international
their sales at income classes A, B and C.
events such as the emerging of top model Gisele Bünd-
trends (in Europe the LVMH and PPR Groups). The Bra-
chen in 2000, who has remained at the top for almost
zilian IM Group — Identidade Moda (Fashion Identity)
port restrictions, the Brazilian fashion market started
a decade and the search for new cultures and tourist
— acquired the brands: Club Chocolate, Cúmplice, Zap-
to benefit from imports and after China the country
destinations after the September 11th (2001) attacks
ping, Zoomp and RK (Renato Kerkalian); the InBrands
became one of the best markets for foreign invest-
on the WTC, in the US. All this has increased interest
Group (a fashion and consumption investment group
ment. Large international fashion chains — such as
in Brazil. In 2001 the Dutch company C&A, which has
created in 2007, financed by PCP an investment fund
Zara, attracted by the potential of the country began
been established in Brazil since 1976, invested almost
of the partners of the Pactual Bank) has bought the
to open shops in the country. A large fragmentation
US$ 5 million in one of its most successful advertising
brands Ellus 2nd Floor (SP), Isabela Capeto (RJ), and
began between classes and brands. Luxury brands
campaigns starring the Brazilian model Gisele Bünd-
has just acquired the SPFW brand (São Paulo Fash-
were introduced. International designers became even
chen, who is still one of the most important faces of
ion Week) and Fashion Rio — both part of the official
better known. Brazil became so promising that in 1991
Brazil’s image abroad.
national and international fashion calendar; as well as
In the first years of the 90s, after decades of im-
it became the world’s third franchise market.
Via their own brands national designers also be-
Brazilian fashion gained a lot of publicity when
it won the World Football Cup in 2002; the event Bra-
gan to gain in prestige. And multi-brand boutiques and
zil: 40 Degrees at Selfridges in London in 2004 and the
stores started to appear. There was a boom in shop-
Year of Brazil in France in 2005 also helped put Brazil
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Since 2007, companies, holdings and Brazilian
During the 90s imports of clothing grew by
In 1999 Brazil went through an important transitional phase having suffered the effects of the 1998
At the beginning of 2008 the Textile Group
Luminosidade, from the Brazilian entrepreneur Paulo
Borges.
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million). Imports grew 53.9% with a daily average of
Brazil ranks as one the world’s largest economies
meters a year; it is only behind the Chinese company
US$ 446.5 million, from January to September 2007,
coming in at sixth place — after Great Britain, France and
Wequiao and the Turkish Izko. It is looking to acquire
to US$ 687.2 million for the same period in 2008.
Italy and ahead of Spain, Mexico and South Korea. More
new companies in neighbouring Latin American coun-
To better understand Brazilian fashion and its pecu-
Imports from January to September 2008 amounted to
than 32% of the jobs generated in Latin America in 2007
tries.
liarities, it is important to understand a few funda-
118.194 billion.
were in Brazil. The GNP growth rate was 5.3% in 2007
ian Export Promotion Agency (APEX) Brazilian garment
Brazil and it emphasizes the creation of opportunities
grew more than world imports, increasing its share of
exports grew 5% on annually between 2002 and 2007.
for the private sector through privatization and the
world trade. The profitability of investments in the coun-
During this period the reduction in exports to North
according to the last census of the IBGE (Brazilian Geo-
removal of commercial competitive barriers. The gov-
try is also high, having exceeded 26% annually during
America stood out, though there was increase in exports
graphical and Statistics Institute) its population of 184
ernment agencies governing and the national regula-
the in the last couple of years. In 2007 the country
to countries with an affinity to Brazil, such as its Latin
million (2007) — is spread among 27 States and 5.564
tors of the fashion industry in Brazil are:
received 30% of the Direct Foreign Investment, destined
American neighbours, Portugal, Spain and Angola. Other
for Latin America; which accounted for a growth of 99%.
important markets such as Japan and Italy have also im-
ABRAVEST — Associação Brasileira do Vestuário
Another attraction is the freedom that companies have
ported more Brazilian goods. The States of São Paulo and
in Brazil to remit profits to their countries of origin.
Santa Catarina are the two main garment exporters in
cultural and regional diversity.
With an area of 8.514.876 km² Brazil and
The role of the government is predominant in
municipalities, organized in five regions:
»»
South (Rio Grande do Sul, Santa Catarina, Paraná);
(Brazilian Garment Association)
»»
Southeast (São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Minas Gerais,
Represents the interests of the garment industry na-
Espírito Santo);
tionally and internationally since 1982. It participates
produced 4.2 billion pieces annually. The ladies fashion
Northeast (Bahia, Sergipe, Alagoas, Pernambuco,
in negotiations on garment import and export quotas
segment was 57% of this total, children’s 23% and
Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte, Ceará, Piauí, Maran-
and provides the Exchequer with data, besides provid-
men’s 20%. The sectors are divided into sub sectors such
exported to 13 of the 20 largest importing countries with
hão);
ing services to its associates, assistance and financial
as lingerie/undergarments, jeans, beachwear, fitness,
Great Britain, USA and Spain taking the largest share.
Centre-West (Mato Grosso do Sul, Mato Grosso,
consulting on projects. The association also promotes
casual and formal (prêt-à-porter and more high fashion).
Exports of Brazilian footwear increased on average 6%
Goiás, Distrito Federal, Tocantins);
trade fairs and events in Brazil and carries out educa-
North (Pará, Amapá, Amazonas, Roraima, Acre,
tion projects.
denim producer in the world. There are more than 30
fashion products to important commercial partners such
Rondônia).
www.abravest.org.br
thousand companies in the Brazilian textile sector, and it
as Italy (106%), Argentina (60%) and Spain (52%) have
is the second largest employer in the processing industry
grown extensively. Rio Grande do Sul was responsible for
ABIT — Associação Brasileira da Indústria Textil e
employing 1.65 million people of which 75% are women.
64% of Brazil’s shoe exports in 2007. Ceará came in sec-
tries of South America (except Chile and Ecuador) and
Confecção (Brazilian Textile Industry Association)
According to the data released by ABIT the estimated
ond place with a growth of 46% in export sales between
is known as the “Giant of Latin America”.
Is the association that represents the entire Brazil-
turnover of the Textile and Garment branch is US$ 34.6
2005 and 2007.
ian fashion industry. It meets with representatives
billion (a growth of 4.85% compared to 2006, when
from the whole of the Brazilian textile industry of
turnover was US$ 33 billion); exports reached US$ 2.4
international gem market and in costume jewellery
Brazil and actively works to promote the sector creat-
billion and imports US$ 3 billion. These figures represent
remained stable. The APEX survey published in 2008
potential consumers, in both South, Central and North
ing working sponsoring and support partnerships
17.5% (GNP) of the processing industry and almost 3.5%
points to an average growth of 20% per year for exports
America. Its GNP represents 35% of the total Latin
between the textile industry and fashion designers.
of Brazilian GNP. Most of the production is in the south
to North American, its largest customer in this sector,
American GNP, being R$ 2.558 trillion in 2007.
ABIT supports Brazilian designers and fashion events,
and southeast. Together these regions produce 86% of
and is followed by Germany, Hong Kong and Israel. The
such as the Fashion Weeks of Rio and São Paulo and Rio
the national total.
States of Minas Gerais, Rio Grande do Sul and São Paulo
»»
»»
»»
Brazil is strategically located, borders all coun-
Seasons in Brazil are the opposite of the Northern Hemisphere.
The Brazilian market reaches 900 million
According to the Intelligence Unit of the Brazil-
with an inflation rate of 3.7%. In 2003 Brazilian exports
mental aspects of Brazil, such as its continental size its
According to the MDIC data the figures for
In the year 2000 the Brazilian garment industry
Brazil is the sixth largest textile and the second
Brazil is already on the way to becoming a world
the country, accounting for respectively 37% and 36%
of the value exported in 2007.
APEX has also stated that Brazilian shoes are
annually between 2002 and 2007. Exports of Brazilian
From 2002 to 2007 Brazil’s participation in the
are the export leaders for gems, jewellery and costume
2008 looked good. The trade balance amounted to
Summer, gives awards to businesses and fashion pro-
US$ 17.202 billion for the 172 working days of the
fessionals to honour their successful accomplishments.
leader in denim production. At least that is the inten-
jewellery. All these figures show foreign investors that
year until the first week of September, being a daily
(www.abit.org.br).
tion of Vicunha Têxtil that has been producing indigo
there is sustained growth in all areas of Brazilian busi-
average of US$ 100 million. Exports amounted to US$
dyed cloth for 50 years. The company has nine factories
ness, including fashion.
135.396 billion averaging US$ 787.2 million daily, an
in Brazil. In 2007 it started its international business,
increase of 28.6% over the daily performance for the
acquiring the Ecuadorian Company La Internacional for
that seem most active in promoting Brazilian fashion
same January to September period in 2007 (US$ 612.2
US$ 30 million. La Internanacional produces 150 million
abroad.
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The USA, France, Italy and Portugal are countries
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1. Brazil and its’ Regions —
The Brazilian Fashion Market
1.1. Main Organizations, Federations
gic export programs to encourage Brazilian business-
the ABTT members were exclusively “textile techni-
Fecomercio — Commerce Federation
and Associations Supporting the Brazilian
men to enter markets abroad with confidence and
cians and engineers who had graduated from official
of the State of São Paulo
Fashion Industry
reassurance. Today, the export strategy developed by
institutions in Brazil or abroad”. From that moment on,
Founded in 1938 it represents 151 retail and services
Texbrasil acts as a reference for APEX. ABIT has de-
despite its original name, the institution opened its
sector business associations throughout the coun-
ABEST — Brazilian Stylists Association
veloped special programs for people to study and gain
doors to all professionals active in the textile-garment
try. It encompasses about 600 thousand companies
ABEST was set up in 2003 and is a non-profit associa-
professional qualification. Among other things it also
industry, as long as they had a middle or higher educa-
responsible for 10% of the Brazilian GNP and gener-
tion whose purpose is to strengthen and promote
supports social and environmental programs
tion diploma recognized as such by the educational
ates around five million jobs. Fecomercio has devel-
the national fashion industry, seeking excellence in
Website: http://www.abit.org.br.
authorities.
oped its procedures for the economic development
Website: http://www.abtt.org.br.
of the country. It endorses the internal market, free
tempts to develop brands/labels with an international
ABRAVEST — Brazilian Garment Association
reach, guarantee the authenticity and creativity of its
Non-profit organization whose objective is to maintain
APEX-BRASIL — Brazilian Agency
from the economy and the differing treatment of
collections; promote the Brazilian life-style as well as
more than a million jobs and the permanent develop-
to Promote Exports and Investments
micro and small businesses. Among its principal ac-
making a contribution to Brazilian fashion as a whole.
ment of more than 18 thousand garment companies,
Its objective is to promote exports of Brazilian products
complishments has been the opening of the Brazilian
In 2006 the association consisted of 51 organiza-
besides having social programs. Since 2007 ABRAV-
and services. It carries out projects together with more
market for imported products and the perfecting of
tions. It had a turnover of US$ 12 million, exporting
EST has struggled to implement standards. This is part
than 60 professional bodies. It has expanded the ex-
the Consumer Defense Code and the end of the tax on
well designed quality products to 38 countries. Today
of a strategy to promote quality and investments in
port mix of goods, opened new markets, consolidated
financial transactions (CPMF). Fecomercio represents
ABEST represents 51 brands in Brazil and exports
technology in order to counter lower priced products
and broadened access to traditional markets. Doing
two movements, a traditional one dedicated to its
to 48 countries. It is constantly attempting to pen-
from abroad, made in Korea and China and of doubt-
what it does it has helped the national balance of trade.
members political representation, and the other one
etrate of new markets and maintain close relations
ful quality; many of these have been smuggled into
APEX uses the following guidelines: identifies regional
dedicated to business partnerships that generate prof-
with already established clients (shops, trade shows,
the country. According to data the implementation
creative trades; strengths professional associations;
its. Via working partnerships with reliable companies
exhibitions) in more than 90 countries. APEX, the
of these standards will benefit consumers, making it
carries out market surveys and looks at prospective
it develops products and services.
Ministry of Tourism and the Brazilian Association of
easier for them to buy gifts without having to change
work; signs cooperation agreements with international
Website: http://www.fecomercio.com.br.
Leather, Shoes and Footwear Components Companies
them, make it easier to buy via internet, but also be
chains, organizes big events with Brazil as theme;
(Assintecal) have supported ABEST its attempt to set
better for the Industry itself. Better standards will
introduces new companies to the international market;
FIESP —Federation of Industries
up showrooms, promoting shows and producing goods
help reduce costs, make it easier to adapt to market
promotes business meetings with importers; execut-
of the State of São Paulo
catalogues.
rules and in the end increase sales. ABRAVEST is the
ing and coordinating international events (commercial
Its principal goal is to transform Brazil into a great eco-
Website: http://www.abest.com.br.
association that that represents Brazil in the “Aivem”
missions, trade fairs, business meetings); promoting
nomic power, and does not limit itself to the borders of
(Mercosul Garment Industry Association). Once the
Brazil’s image. During the last five years as an autono-
the State of São Paulo. FIESP is spokesperson for 132
ABIT — Brazilian Textile and Garment Association
agreement to implement garment standards in Brazil
mous agency it has helped Brazilian businessmen to
business associations which represent approximately
Created on 8 April 1957 it represents the merger of
then these standards will also be adopted in the other
exhibit and sell their products in more than 60 coun-
150 thousand industries of all sizes and in all areas. It
the Brazilian textile sector. It consists of more than 30
Mercosul countries: Argentina, Uruguay and Paraguay.
tries. In 2007 it was responsible for 761 events — sector
is the largest professional body in Brazilian industry.
thousand companies. ABIT promotes all parts of the
Website: http://www.abravest.org.br.
trade fairs, commercial and prospecting missions, busi-
The present FIESP gives priority to strategic thinking
ness meetings, special events, road shows and others.
and the equal treatment that the federation gives to
initiatives, and the removal of the state interference
textile industry, from cotton growing, synthetic raw
materials, fibbers, yarns, knitwear, dyers, printers
ABTT — Brazilian Textile Technicians Association
APEX works with approximately 1.848 exporting
diverse productive sectors and unions independently
and even garment manufacturers. Its objective is to
Founded on 2 November 1962 during a meeting held
companies representing 63 Brazilian industries. The
of their size and the sector to which they belong.
support the sustained development of the Brazilian
at the Chemical and Textile Technicians’ School (pres-
following have profited from APEX’s work: the fashion
FIESP has nine Thematic Boards, coordinated by the
textile industry, protect its interests besides inform-
ently the Senai/Cetiqt) in Rio de Janeiro with 73 textile
industry, textiles and footwear, fashion design,
Roberto Simonsen Institute (IRS) that draws-up the
ing the public in general about its activities. It seeks to
technicians present. Among its objectives was to
promotional products, cosmetics, footwear parts and
guidelines for the work of the departments: Economic
increase exports. In 2001 with APEX’s support ABIT
sponsor the exchange of ideas and experiences with
components, shoes, leather and leather articles, jewel-
Surveys and Studies, International Relations and
launched a label to promote Brazilian textiles abroad:
textile professionals in other countries, as well as con-
lery, precious gems and related products.
Foreign Trade, Infrastructure, Environment, Competi-
Texbrasil. One of Texbrasil’s duties is to develop strate-
nected national and foreign associations. Until 1989
Website: http://www.apexbrasil.com.br.
tiveness and Technology, Micro, Small and Medium
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15
quality, design and identity. The Association also at-
Industries. FIESP is represented in the entire State
entrepreneurship that will contribute to the modern-
1.2. The Brazilian Fashion Market:
of São Paulo by 51 regional managers. To guarantee
ization and growth of industry.
Peculiarities and Consumer Profile
“novelas” (soap operas) that usually last six months.
equal growth of the different productive groups they
Website: http://www.firjan.org.br.
Foreign companies and investors, even from Latin
The most influent network in Brazil is “Rede Globo”,
America consider the Brazilian market complicated,
the largest in Brazil and fourth in the world. Its’
and Agribusiness, Construction, Mining, Leather and
The “S” System
because internal changes occur so quickly. The coun-
programs and soaps are extremely popular amongst
Footwear, Textiles and Garments and Defence Indus-
Created in the 40’s by representatives of Brazilian
try has an incredible recuperative power when faced
all social classes, especially middle and lower classes.
try. There is also a committee of Young Entrepreneurs,
business community to unite the institutions associ-
with internal as well as world crises.
Rede Globo’s headquarters is in Rio de Janeiro and its
Cultural Action and Social Responsibility.
ated with the retail industry; its’ objective being to
Website: http://www.fiesp.com.br.
promote social development in various businesses.
is encouraged by the enormous variety in the national
every day from six to ten in the evening with a break
SESC (Social Services of Commerce) and SENAC (Na-
consumer market. Curiosity and access to information
between the second and the third for the evening
FIRJAN System
tional Commercial Apprenticeship Service) in retail
are characteristics of the Brazilian consumer, they
news, plus a shortened return of a very popular soap
The FIRJAN System consists of five institutions that
and services; SESI (Social Service of the Industry) and
are better prepared and more demanding with regard
in the afternoons. The company has sold many of its
work together to develop Rio de Janeiro industries. To-
SENAI (National Industrial Apprenticeship Service) in
when it comes to consumption.
soap operas (“soaps”) abroad (which increases Brazil’s
gether the FIRJAN (Federation of Industries of Rio de
industry. In the case of Fashion, we mention SENAI,
Janeiro), CIRJ (Industrial Centre of Rio de Janeiro), SESI
the education institute par excellence and the sup-
living in Rio and São Paulo even when “provoked” by
(National Industry Social Services), SENAI (National
porter of the industry. The first component of SENAI to
international fashion trends, go beyond their financial
las’ are instantly transformed into a “hit” just as the
Industrial Apprenticeship Service) and IEL (“Euvaldo
offer higher level courses was the SENAI/Cetiqt, one of
limits. Brazilians possess a particular aesthetic sense.
actors turn into celebrities. When this happens the
Lodi” Institute) encourage measures to guarantee that
the most important centers for professional education,
Sometimes, a season’s trends like forms and colour
network opens a direct consumer phone line where
the State occupies an important position at political,
services and consultancy for the textile industry in
that are hits in the Northern Hemisphere simply do
people can call to get information about where to
economic and social levels. Today, all the institutions
Brazil.
not please the Brazilian consumer. In Brazil individual-
buy the products showed on TV. Even if the item
ism and personal style are very important and deter-
can no longer be found in the shops (due to the large
mine what people will buy.
demand, knock-offs will certainly be found in the
are seen as service providers. FIRJAN develops and
The average Brazilian consumer, especially if
It is the only textile school in the country
principal product are the soaps. At least three are aired
international popularity)
The clothes and accessories worn in the ‘nove-
coordinates studies and projects to promote industrial
which owns a complete textile factory, besides a pilot
activities and new investments in the state. Its The-
garment plant, an integrated laboratory network,
matic Boards and Sector Forums discuss trends and
institutes that are specialized in colour, design and
ment industry has changed considerably. The sector
quality products. TV Globo uses the strength of these
launch guidelines to support and assist companies.
market and technological vision, as well as a complete
is extremely dynamic and aimed at young consumers
‘novelas’ to change products and fashion trends into
Today 105 business associations are affiliated to the
book collection on textiles, garment making, fashion
(half of the Brazilian population is less than thirty
bestsellers through the brands and merchandising.
FIRJAN, representing 8.821 companies in the State of
and markets.
years old)
Even when the story line deals with themes which are
Rio de Janeiro. The CIRJ makes available, at a reduced
Websites: http://www.sesc.com.br; http://www.senac.br;
http://www.sesi.org.br; http://www.senai.br.
The profile of the Brazilian fashion and gar-
Regional variations also have a role to play.
street markets and vendors who sell all sorts of low-
not very familiar to the Brazilian public, such as those
There a great differences in style despite the pre-
dealing with Muslim cultures or USA ‘Country’ and
offered by the five institutions that are part of the FIR-
dominant influence of trends originating in Rio or São
western style, the clothes shown on Globo will be cop-
JAN System. SENAI-RJ provides technical assistance to
Paulo. The diversity of climate must also be consid-
ied and bought by the public (specially by the middle
companies via professional education and certificate
ered. In the South winter is somewhat like a European
and lower-classes) During the airing of the novela, O
programs at all levels. It has a network of 30 fixed and
winter when people wear thicker clothing. Whilst in
Clone (The Clone, 2001), Brazilians from all over the
15 mobile operational units. And the SESIi-RJ develops
the southeast, northeast, centre-west and north it is
country were inspired by the central character of the
events to promote health, education, sport, leisure and
hot and sunny and people wear lighter clothing. In the
story, a Moroccan woman, played by the Brazilian
culture, aimed workers and communities. The institu-
coastal cities and on the coast beachwear is used the
actress Giovanna Antonelli. At the time it was common
tion is also active in the area of occupational health,
whole year round.
to see women wearing Moroccan or oriental fashion
price to its affiliated companies, access to the services
The diversity of the Brazilian fashion industry
Among other things that have a great influence
work security and environment protection. It has 22
and accessories. They would exaggerate eye make-up
operational units in the state. And finally the IEL aims
on fashion consumption is the influence of television,
and wore copies of the gold jewellery specially created
to provide businessmen with business qualification,
notably Brazilian soap operas and some international
by the designer Junia Machado for this TV produc-
support research and develop projects to stimulate
series, celebrities and the media.
tion. In the novela, America (2005), a story with a
16
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have also created committees for the sectors: Food
In Brazil there are TV networks that produce
world’s centre of “body perfection.” No wonder the
fringes, boots and belts with large buckles and North
country is number one in the world for plastic surgery
American cowboy hats. No matter how incredible the
and Rio is one of the world’s cities with the most fit-
1.3.1. Formal vs. Informal Economy
the country like Saks Fifth Avenue in New York; Har-
fashion trend inspired TV Globo prime time novela
ness centres and spas. All this exaggerated preoccupa-
It is estimated that a large part of Brazilian fashion is
rods or Harvey & Nichols, in London or Galleries Lafay-
is, it always inspires Brazilians’ imagination and the
tion with the body makes Brazilian fashion normally
sold in the informal market. Despite this fact fashion
ette in Paris. The Brazilian department stores are more
phone lines of the Audience Attendance Call Centre
sold (and known) abroad to be considered extremely
in Brazil especially in the large cities follows a “certain
like the popular ones which exist in the afore men-
(CAT) are blocked. The novelas always feature and
casual and (especially) sensual. .
hierarchy” in terms of retail establishments. There are
tioned cities. This type of shop is aimed at middle and
large malls, department stores and large shops, multi-
low income consumers and whose principal attraction
Maybe as a consequence of this lifestyle in
At present — except for the luxury multi-brand
Daslu (SP) — there are no luxury department stores in
the Southeast (Rio and São Paulo). The trends in these
some Brazilian cities and the constant preoccupation
brands and single brand shops (Brazilian and foreign),
is variety and accessible prices. However, since the
cities never require a specific date to appeal to the
about being and staying in shape, an interesting phe-
fashion houses, Internet sales (e-commerce) and
beginning of this century when a global hi-low trend
consumer passion of the audience. In 2006 part of the
nomenon is emerging: the superimposition of genera-
informal sales in homes, popular markets and street
became apparent (expensive + cheap essentials), it is
soap opera Páginas da Vida (“Life’s Pages”) story line
tions and ages. Consumption is not only drawn along
vendors.
sometimes possible to see higher income groups trad-
was set in Amsterdam. The Netherlands and its cities
age groups but also by behaviour and lifestyle — what
Since they started mushrooming all over the
ing down, especially in Rio and São Paulo. The greater
(especially Amsterdam) promptly became a tourist
a group of trend forecasters research in Rio (in which
country in the 80s, shopping centers have changed
part of Brazilian department stores does not have a lot
destination to Brazilians.
I am included) named Behage (behaviour + age). After
the way clothing is retailed, Each year new malls are
of product categories compared to their foreign coun-
all, in some main cities in Brazil, behaviour is consid-
being opened all over the place. If in the beginning
terparts, but there is always a fashion section. The
on cable TV, the audience is a little different. Sex &
ered to be the new age concept (being even more ac-
market niches were not so well defined, today retail-
main chains are: Lojas Americanas, Marisa, Renner,
the City became a phenomenon in Brazil in terms of
curate — at times — than the birth certificate itself). In
ing has subdivided and specialized, not only by social
Riachuelo, Leader, Pernambucanas, Esplanada and
fashion and style trends particularly amongst the
some cities it is common to see different generations of
class but also as regards life-styles. According to the
By Express. Chains such as Zara (Spanish) and C&A
middle and upper middle class. Brazilian artists (gener-
consumers (both sexes) buying similar fashion prod-
Shopping Centre’s Retail Association (Alshop) 2007
(Dutch) sell only clothes and accessories.
ally based in Rio and São Paulo) or foreign stars (TV,
ucts. This recent phenomenon is probably due to the
was a top year for Brazilian malls. In 2007, 22 new
film, music, theatre etc), are generally fashion icons
fact that in Brazil middle aged and elderly people have
ones were opened and 3.497 new shops. The forecast
in large as well as smaller cities. In the large cities the
and sources of inspiration for the Brazilian consumer.
adopted a life-style that has been labelled as “youth-
for 2008 was that at least 20 more (shopping) malls
multi-brand stores often function as a “centre” where
In the Brazil the press is one of the principal fashion
ful”; characterized by physical activity, leisure, etc.
would be inaugurated, with a turnover of R$ 74.7
one can find a large variety of prestigious national
movers. Brands, personalities, companies, no matter
These and other factors show the incredible
billion. The largest mall owners is BR Malls in which
and/or international labels. In the smaller towns they
In the case of the international series shown
The so-called “multi-brand” shops are common
their degree of importance, want space and atten-
diversity and dynamism of the Brazilian fashion mar-
GP Investments participates. In 2007 there were 684
normally function as a “centre” where it possible to
tion from the media. To do this they need an efficient
ket. The image of Brazilian fashion normally given off
malls in Brazil with a total of 80.419 shops, employing
buy famous Brazilian brands (that are valued in the
press service. It is essential to have a well functioning
and known abroad is of a tropical, casual and sensual
805.000 people. Turnover reached R$ 68.4 billion, and
smaller towns) and sometimes even foreign brands.
media.
fashion, although many other important aspects are
grew 13.4% compared to 2006.
The human body is another fundamental issue
to be taken into consideration.
Department stores are traditional in Brazil and
The single brand shops are also very traditional.
Since the 90s with the opening of the market for
to be considered when dealing with Brazilian fashion.
are becoming more popular every day. Since the 80s
imports, they have suffered and have gone through an
In Brazil the body is like a national article. The fact
when they started to compete with up market fashion
intense restructuring process. They invested heavily
that Brazil has a tropical climate makes for a very
shops they have attempted to modernize and have
in research, marketing, production and the quality of
casual and relaxed fashion — especially on the coast.
tried to avoid following the conservative business
their products, etc. This was necessary to face increas-
The fashion in some Brazilian cities like Rio de Janeiro
model which worked for many years in Brazil (such
ing competition from foreign labels. Today in Brazil
is striking. Because of the climate and the laid-back at-
as the American Sears in Rio and São Paulo) and since
there are highly sought after national and internation-
mosphere clothing that is more coloured, comfortable
became obsolete. The great difference between these
al brands. This type of shop can be found in shopping
and light are preferred. Tailored clothing is preferred
shops and their smaller competitors, is their invest-
centers and on the high-streets.
for work or more formal occasions.
ment in personnel training, research travel, promoting
Brazilian fashion (especially in Rio) tends to
fashion shows and events.
Fashion houses and boutiques are exclusively at
the top of the luxury market and have a rich clientele;
they offer specialized service with trained sales teams
expose the body a lot. Rio de Janeiro is considered the
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make use of the lifestyle of Brazilian regions, notably
1.3. Fashion Retailing in Brazil
American country theme, inspired street fashion,
who serves this type of customer. Brazilian fashion
dega” (SAARA) consists of 11 streets representing one
the São Paulo Fashion Week. The latest news is the
gest office yet in Brazil. For Kimy Tsukamoto, Ashoka’s
houses do not always have the same characteristics
of the most traditional popular commercial center in
opening of a shop in Manhattan, in a concept store
director, besides being an entrepreneur is also a social
as their international counterparts, where only the
the city. It was named thus in 1963 to recall the Leba-
format. Cia.Marítima was started 18 years ago, and
worker and thinks social action is a life option.
prestigious brand is featured. Some of its national
nese immigrants, especially the Syrian-Lebanese,
initially sold its clothes to popular stores. It is only dur-
versions (i.e.: Daslu in SP, Espaço Lundgren, Alberta &
who began their businesses there. On the average,
ing the last 10 years that it began to go after a more
fashion production chain is a way of helping these
Avec Nuance in Rio; Magrela in Brasília, etc), function
every day 100 thousand people visit the more than
elite public. It signed up with the select group of labels
communities but also an appreciation of their capacity
as luxury multi-label shops where one can find dozens
1.2 thousand popular shops selling clothes, toys,
in the SPFW. Set up by Henrique Rosset it belongs to
and quality of work. These movements were started
of prestigious international and national labels. There
decoration articles, articles for Carnaval, costume
the Rosset Group, the largest Lycra manufacturer in
more than 20 years ago in order to have the poor
are also single label (or franchises) shops with labels
jewelry, party articles and internationally famous
Brazil.
population take part in activities linked to crafts and
such as Armani, Salvatore Ferragamo, Hugo Boss,
labeled clothing and handbags seconds. These days
Ermenegildo Zegna, Louis Vuitton, Mont Blanc, Ralph
the Koreans and Chinese have taken over the area and
is the Imports Market known as the “Paraguay Market”
movements have increased, now known as coopera-
Lauren, Tiffany’s, Tommy Hilfiger etc., in the rich
compete with the street vendors of downtown Rio in
because of the products smuggled from Paraguay
tives or associations, and have caught the attention
neighbourhoods of large cities, especially in Rio and
selling smuggled items.
by the unemployed in 1995. Today it sells electronic
of national and international organizations, govern-
products and fake Prada or Fendi handbags, Hermès
mental ones as well as NGO’s. Because of the success
the downtown “Rua 25 de Março” (and surrounding
shawls or Zoomp trousers. In Rio de Janeiro this type
of this type of entrepreneurship and the products
contrasts. One finds luxury stores next to popular mar-
streets) initially occupied by the immigrants from the
of product is sold openly by Saara’s street vendors. The
these people make the demand from the national and
kets and street vendors who these days are patron-
Middle-East. Clothing, yarns, threads and needles are
same happens in São Paulo in the shops of the “Rua
international market is on the increase
ized by foreigners and higher income clients.
the main products sold wholesale and retail. Today
25 de Março” and the Liberdade. Other popular fairs in
As mentioned previously Brazil is a country of
Since 1981, a growing number of hand-made
they continue to compete with the relative newcomers
the Federal Discritc are the “Feira da Torre”, (Brasília)
artisan cooperatives have been set up in poor com-
1.3.2. Popular Markets, Arts & Crafts Fairs,
—the Chinese and Koreans — selling clothing, hand-
and the “Feira do Guará”, in the satellite town of Guará.
munities in the South-eastern Region. In 1981 the
and Street Vendors
bags, accessories and sportswear seconds.
But since they have no professional supervision, they
most well-known cooperative, the Coopa-Roca, was
do not provide any added value, and do not compete
established. The objective of the Hand-made Works
In all the States of Brazil, low-end retail is carried out
São Paulo has a similar popular market on
sell their products for fair prices. All over Brazil these
In São Paulo the so-called “Liberdade” (a very
in popular markets (different than fashion and busi-
popular quarter) is also located, in a traditional
with the traditional retail. However the crafts fairs,
and Sewing Cooperative of the Rocinha Ltd. is to pro-
ness fairs, which will be dealt with further on in this
Japanese neighbourhood that during the last 20 to
due their originality, are very much appreciated
vide conditions to its members (women of the Rocinha
report) such as craft markets, street vendors, street
30 years has also been populated by many Chinese
by foreigners visiting the country, and have been
community in the southern area of Rio de Janeiro) to
shops and popular shopping centers. In the late 60’s
and Koreans who today dominate the retail outlets.
targeted by foreign trend researchers and fashion
work from their homes. By this, they can increase
the first artisan fashion fairs appeared, also known as
The “Made in China” and “Made in Korea” products are
stylists. Since 2000 these fairs have been changing
their family income and at the same time not be sepa-
hippie markets or “Hippie Fair” (because of the Hippie
copies of the latest labelled fashion items. The “Bom
and many actions have been taken to professionalize
rated from their children.
Movement in the 60s and 70s) non labelled cloth-
Retiro” quarter, initially inhabited by Jewish families
the artisans.
ing and accessories, almost always handmade, they
from Central and Eastern Europe has been taken over
became popular because they sold individual fashion
by Greeks and Koreans who started moving there in
1.3.3. The Appreciation of Production
material was to create the cooperative. During its’ first
and charged lower prices. Some of them are still ac-
the 70s. And as in the Saara (Rio) and Liberdade (São
by Poor Communities and its Handcrafts
years of existence, Coopa-Roca built a small hand-
tive today; such as the Hippie Market on the “General
Paulo) it is not hard to find people looking for a Gucci
by the Fashion Market
made production building, where items could be made
Osório” square in Ipanema (Rio) which has been in
jacket or Prada trousers.
Brazil’s entrepreneurial spirit is not only shown by the
using traditional Brazilian techniques such as “fuxico”,
The intention to organize and train this group
of women to make these handicrafts from leftover
opening of companies. According to a survey done by
crochet, needlework, “knots” and patchwork. The Ro-
attraction. The Ipanema Feira Hippie (Hippie fair) is a
“Bom Retiro” have made a name abroad: Rosa Chá and
the “O Globo” newspaper, this third sector for so-called
cinha community has become a national and interna-
useful place for researchers of prestigious labels from
Cia. Marítima. Founded by Amir Slama and Rosa Chá
social entrepreneurs moves more than R$ 22 billion.
tional reference point within social integration of poor
the whole world. Well known people from the fashion
the label is going through a period of growth. In 2006
The interest of Brazilians and foreigners to form part-
communities through work and income generation.
world, such as Valentino Garavani, visit the place.
a partnership agreement was signed with Marisol and
nerships and work with poor communities is grow-
Today the cooperative has almost 100 artisans and
the ladies line was shown at the New York Fashion
ing, integrating them in the fashion world. The NGO
working partnerships with prestigious Brazilian labels
Week and the shows for the men’s line were done at
Ashoka which works in 63 countries opened its big-
such as M. Officer of Carlos Miele and Osklen of Oskar
business for forty years and has become a tourist
Also in Rio de Janeiro, the Association of the
Friends of the Streets Neighbouring the “Rua da Alfân-
Two famous beachwear labels that come from
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São Paulo.
In the Federal District the most popular market
The integration of poor communities in the
Metsavath, and its products are always present at the
the participation of fashion post-graduate students
Maria Oiticica, Jota, Paula Mourão, André Lasmar and
products. Among the products sold are decorative
fashion weeks in Rio and SP and even in collections
of the “Institute Français de la Mode” (IFM) and the
Yrys Albuquerque. And the participating NGO’s were:
items, and fashion, such as accessories, costume jew-
shown abroad.
International Styling and Modeling School of France
Coosturart, Fuxicarte, Communitarian Action of Brazil,
ellery, clothes (ladies and men’s’) and bags (including
(ESMOD) that have helped the artisans of this commu-
CEASM (Study Centre for Solidarity Actions of the
eco-bags).
known Brazilian designers and artists such as Tetê
nity in their development. ModaFusion also organizes
Maré) — Marias Maré and Devas, Project “Arte-Não”.
Leal, Fred Gelli and Ernesto Neto amongst others.
workshops for people in poor communities dealing
Several shops in Rio sell products made in poor
communities, such as the prestigious label Isabela Ca-
with fashion themes such as “The Lens of Dreams” for
and a band devoted to the social inclusion of the youth
peto, and the Parceria Carioca (“Carioca Partnership”)
Morro” (MMM), (Girls and Women of the Hill) set up in
models. Acting as a showroom and a showcase for the
of the favela of “Vigário Geral” and other poor com-
of Flávia Torres, two of the city’s fashion icons. They
1997 the community of “Morro da Mangueira” with
clothing made by these communities the association
munities in Rio), held its fashion debut during the São
also sell the beautiful handmade items made by the
the same objectives. Its objective is to improve the
helps with the marketing of the products made for
Paulo Fashion Week, in 2007. The new label was intro-
relatives of patients hospitalized in the public hospi-
quality of life and provide solutions for the commu-
these labels.
duced by the São Paulo based stylist Marcelo Sommer
tals of Rio de Janeiro (charity projects as O Sol, Refazer
who in February 2006 went into partnership with
and Saúde Criança Renascer (“The Sun”, “Redoing” and
“Child Health).
Also in Rio the NGO “Meninas e Mulheres do
nity’s problems. As the work developed, those running
As a result of the work between the French
the community noticed that not only the girls needed
students and Brazilian NGOs ModaFusion produced
AfroReggae creating and developing 60 looks with a
guidance but so did the boys. A great turn around took
two things; a collection was introduced at the Fashion
surfeit of ethnic and graphic prints. The cast of models
place, when a young stylist Érica Portilho joined the
Rio 2007; and the Special, an annual one during which
included professionals and adolescents youths in an
Brasília, this type of cooperative has received a lot of
NGO and built the project “Candelária Modas e Cos-
ModaFusion chooses a social cause in collaboration
unusual fashion show with styling by Felipe Veloso
publicity thanks to the initiative of the label “Apoena”,
tumes”. It is a bazaar which resells clothing and acces-
with a Brazilian NGO and a famous stylist. As regards
and art direction by Gringo Cardia, whose scenery was
which give shows during the Fashion Rio and the
sories donated by people and shops which the young
the event, the proposal is an artistic fusion between
inspired by graffiti and toy art.
Minas Trend Preview. The organizer Kátia Ferreira has
people have adapted. The intention is to promote the
Fashion, Design, Photos and Music, changing into
young people’s technical qualification so that they
a creative laboratory, uniting a lot of Brazilian and
of formal and informal cooperatives, besides NGOs,
to help un- or underemployed women who could make
may work in the fashion business and pass on their
French artists. During all the events, models from
labels or institutions that appreciate and promote
genuine Brazilian needlepoint pieces. That is how the
knowledge of arts and culture allowing those who fol-
the model agency “Lens of Dreams” (from the poor
crafts in poor communities. Though many of them are
name “Apoena” came into being. It is Tupi-Guarani and
low to create their own destinies.
neighbourhood Cidade de Deus, western Rio), set up
in partnership with artists and designers the general
means “he who sees far”. Researching new techniques
by the photographer Tony Barros and coordinated by
public kept their distance, because knowledge how to
and materials the label markets vintage needlepoint
the model Gisele Guimarães.
buy the pieces produced was limited. A recent initia-
with a contemporary twist.
Another important initiative is the Association
ModaFusion set up three years ago by the French
fashion journalist Nadine Gonzalez and the Brazilian
Today the South-eastern Region has hundreds
The ModaFusion Association has already
In the Central-Western Region, especially in
a passion for needlepoint and realized the opportunity
tive is worth: Asta, an Internet sales portal and direct
Parallel to the Brasília Fashion Festival (BFF)
businesswoman Andréa Fasanello to promote the year
participated in several fashion events in Brazil and
catalogue and home sales, has started gathering and
an exposition is organized to show the work of 600
of Brazil in France (2005) and to make a change over to
France. Among them Fashion Rio (Prêt-à-Porter fair
selling small handicrafts, fashion and home decoration
women belonging to crafts cooperatives managed by
the France Year in Brazil in (2008), providing oppor-
in Paris), and the Ethical Fashion Show of Paris. There
item produced in the State of Rio.
Ronaldo Fraga, a stylist from Minas Gerais. Some of
tunities for the two countries to extend their cultural
are plans to hold a Brazilian edition of the latter (the
and economic cooperation.
Ethical Fashion Show) in Rio, which will be held at the
Rachel Schettino to enhance professional qualification
criam (Hands that Create) and Icléa Coutinho. The ini-
end of the 2009 — The Year of France in Brazil.
and teach each of the 28 groups of artisans that are
tiative to group these cooperatives is the fact that the
a part of Asta quality, purpose and aesthetics. Hence
central-western region is known for its handicrafts.
ModaFusion’s basic idea is that the making of
The Cultural Group from Rio AfroReggae (NGO
the future is in the soul of the poor communities. The
Among the stylists that have participated in
Created by the consultants Alice Freitas and
the cooperatives are the Paranoá, La:cre, Mãos que
genuine creative spirit of the favelas is identified with
the Fashion Fusion in France are Cléments Ribeiro for
Asta manages to be commercial and sustainable at the
According to Labor Department data there are 14
the strong potential of Brazilian fashion. The project
Cacharel, Corinne Philippon, E2 for La Redoute, Fifi
same time. The results of all these efforts is a cata-
artisans’ cooperatives in the Federal District. These co-
consists of three action areas: social, creative and the
Chachnil, Guerilla Couture, Isabel Marant, Impasse 13,
logue with more than 150 handmade items that meet
operatives turn newspapers, cans and plastic bottles
experience.
Réquiem, Chloé, Sonia Rykiel, Kenzo, Pierre Hardy,
the requirements, “good, beautiful and inexpensive”
into clothing and accessories.
Paule Ka, Bárbara Bui, Repetto and Aurélie Biederman.
and with prices between R$ 7 and R$ 250. Produc-
cooperatives and NGO’s helping their artistic devel-
In Brazil the following jewellers took part: Bia Vascon-
ers receive 50% of the sales revenues and 28% to
years in the North-eastern Region. The Feminine In-
opment and their encouragement to transform the
celos, Lucia Guinle, Daniele Corrêa, Yara Figueiredo,
maintain the network and 22% is for the resellers.
dustrial Institute “Visconde de Mauá” was founded in
artisan ideas into fashion products; all this thanks to
Patrícia Goodman, Francisca Bastos, Renata Klien,
And the best part is that they are ecologically correct
1939. The aim was to encourage home sewing in Ba-
The Association appreciates the communities,
22
This type of initiative has existed for nearly 70
23
The cooperative also makes items for well
hia’s cities. In 1983 the Institute started with a policy
are given advice on fashion, design and trends to make
known as the Fashion Business that forms part of the
to preserve, stimulate, promote and market clothing.
them more competitive.
Rio Fashion Week, held twice a year. Many say it is the
Fashion São Gonçalo: the centre set up in Novem-
Data from August 2008 on the Fashion branch,
Fashion Business that forced the pace of development
ber 2005. With approximately 200 businesses it
of the Brazilian Crafts Program (PAB) set up by the
published by Industries Federation of the State of Rio
and professionalism of the Brazilian centers, especial-
produces goods including jeans, beachwear, linge-
Development, Industry and Foreign Trade Ministry
de Janeiro (FIRJAN), shown that the State’s exports
ly those in the State of Rio, Niterói and Cabo Frio. . The
rie, surf wear and casual wear. In the same year
with the aim of stimulating the artisan’s trade. The
reached US$ 6.7 million in the first quarter. São Paulo
same thing happened with the centers in Itaperuna
they started the Factories’ Mall. Besides supplying
institute also has the support of the SEBRAE and has
leads with US$ 12.4 million. However the value per
and Campos. The evolution of the Campos Fashion
the Brazilian market it also exports to the USA,
permanent exhibition site showing crafts from Bahia;
kilo exported from Rio was US$ 97.37 — more than
Center was even more phenomenal. It had only taken
it also has an auditorium, library, and gallery.
double that of São Paulo at US$ 47.30 and more than
part three times in the Fashion Business, and its turn
the national average which is US$ 42.90.
over in June 2008 was R$ 260.000.
1.3.4. Brazilian Fashion Centres and their
Portugal, and Italy.
»»
Fashion Nova Iguaçu and São João de Meriti: Has
more than 200 factories, employing 3.000 people.
23% of the jobs are in Nova Iguaçu and 40% in São
One of the principal fashion centers in the State
Importance for the Economies of Brazil’s States
of Rio is the production of underwear in Nova Friburgo
1.3.6. Fashion (Production) Centres in the
João de Meriti. Strong jeans manufacturing centre.
The Productive Centers bring together groups of
and its’ surrounding area. There are almost 900 manu-
State of Rio — General Characteristics
One medium sized company exported US$ 3.25
micro and small businesses from various sectors such
facturers producing lingerie, night wear, beachwear,
»»
Fashion Nova Friburgo: the largest underwear pro-
million in 2002, an increase of 100% compared to
as garments, footwear, furniture, drinks, etc. that
and fitness wear. The sector employs more than 20
duction centre in the country, 900 formal factories
2001. In 2000 the centre had not exported any-
are located in the same region or city. These Centers
thousand workers and has an annual turnover of
with 20.000 workers. Besides the internal market
thing. Now its’ exports go primarily to the United
are essential for the state economies because of
about R$ 600 million.
with a 25% market share for lingerie, Nova Fribur-
the productivity of their members. According to the
go sells its products to the Mercosul, the European
Another large regional manufacturing centre is
States.
»»
Fashion of the South of Rio (Valença): the centre
Union, Africa, Middle-East, Japan, and the USA.
has approximately 400 factories, divided into
Fashion Petrópolis: one of the most representa-
micro, small and medium sized businesses, besides
Factories are spread all over the city. Fashion reflects
tive of the fashion business it has more than 600
studios and family businesses. Divided into con-
ploying 2.8 million people. The economist José Cezar
the development and improvement of small and
factories, employing 20.000 (industry, distribution
verters, mills and dying businesses, that together
Castanhar, of the Fundação Getúlio Vargas (Getulio
medium factories that began to appear during the 50s.
and sales) and producing 8.000 pieces a day with a
employs around 4.000 people in the 20 towns in
Vargas Foundation a highly rated business school) es-
Some factories were quite large. In the 50s and 60s
monthly turnover of approximately R$ 100 million.
the area of the Garment Industry Union of South-
timates that the turnover from these centers reaches
businesses suffered. There were a lot of shutdowns
Main products knitwear and wool.
ern Rio State (Sindvestsul). More than 40 famous
R$ 200 billion annually.
and layoffs. Ex-employees started to open their small
Fashion Niterói: 250 factories and 5 thousand
labels have their collections made in the towns of
factories and their garages on Teresa Street became
employees. The Niteroi production is diversified
Valença, Rio das Flores and Barra do Piraíthere,
their shops.
and includes ladies and men’s fashion, beachwear,
Development Ministry there are 264 Local Productive
Petrópolis, one of the larger industrial centers in the
Arrangements (APls) spread throughout the country,
Brazil. It is not just a neighbourhood or a few streets.
representing nearly 190 thousand businesses em-
It is worth mentioning footwear in Franca
(São Paulo) and Novo Hamburgo (Rio Grande do Sul),
knitwear in Monte Sião (Minas Gerais), underwear in
»»
»»
fitness, leather accessories, bags, jewellery and
Today Petrópolis has more than 600 garment
especially jeans.
»»
Fashion of the Northwest of Rio (Itaperuna):
costume jewellery, besides bespoke and haute
represents 13 regional towns, with 300 factories,
couture studios.
micro, small and medium sized employing 10.000
Beach Fashion Cabo Frio: more than 400 busi-
people with a turnover of R$ 15 million per month.
low national and international trends. The centre’s
nesses with 5.500 jobs. Beach Fashion made in
The centre produces nightwear for boutiques and
influence is also seen in the malls and shops, from
the area is exported to the USA, Chile, Spain, Italy,
shops in the country besides exporting to Europe
Friburgo (Rio de Janeiro), and beachwear in Cabo Frio
factories, employing about 20.000 people. Teresa
(Rio de Janeiro). The products from the Brazilian Fash-
Street is the main fashion area in town, where there
ion Centers are marketed throughout Brazil as well as
are more than 900 shops with collections that fol-
abroad. Many of them export the “Made in Brazil” label
all over the world.
»»
and the Mercosul.
the historic town centre to such districts as Bingen,
France, Portugal and Mexico. Cabo Frio also has an
1.3.5. Fashion Centres in Brazil —
a neighbourhood at the edge of town where there is
open-air market, the famous Biquini Street, which
State of Rio de Janeiro
a commercial centre with 200 shops. The diversified
has 150 shops selling beachwear.
by more than 300 businesses in the city of Rio de
From 2003 onwards the 14 Fashion Centers in Rio de
demand has caused the companies to improve their
Fashion Campos: 100 official businesses, employ-
Janeiro. Almost 60% of them make shoes and the
Janeiro State have grown 67.3% that is on average 6%
output.
ing 2.500 people and with a diversified production,
remainder, handbags and other accessories. The
despite the fact that jeans form the core of the
businesses, most of them small employ 10.000.
business. Knitwear and underwear and clothes
Different handmade products and fashion label
annual growth. According to the SEBRAE the monthly
The demand to modernize and become more
average turnover of the 14 centers is R$ 30.000. They
competitive is due to the Brazilian Fashion Market,
»»
24
»»
Accessories: (shoes, handbags and others): made
25
Rejuvenated in 1991 the Mauá Institute is a member
made to order are also sold.
»»
goods are also produced here.
»»
Bijóias SP — 43rd edition
Event data: Oldest of the largest and most expressive
ly 250 companies that provide on average 5.000
1.3.9. FENIT: Pioneer of Brazilian Trade Fairs and
Bijóias Brazil — 1st edition
trade fair for costume jewellery, plated jewellery,
direct jobs in the textile mills that produce all kinds
Embryo of Fashion Shows in Brazil.
Event data: most complete and all encompassing
silver and fashion accessories in Latin America.
of fabrics, besides embroidery and lace. It consists
FENIT was created 50 years ago and is the business
version of Bijóias, (Costume Jewellery), objective is
of small and medium sized businesses, whose
fair for the textile and garment sector in Brazil and
to promote brands, designers, and manufacturers of
Classification: National
strength can be evaluated from the fact that 75%
Latin America. The last edition, held in June 2008
accessories and costume jewellery, shop inventories,
Dates: 13/11/2008 - 15/11/2008
of the production is sold outside the State and 5%
at the Anhembi Pavilion in São Paulo, exceeded all
labels, inventory control software and other types of
Venue: Convention Centre Frei Caneca
goes to other countries.
expectations, with more than 12.000 visitors. There
services, strengthening Bijóias commitment to attend
City: São Paulo
were 300 exhibitors spread out over an area of
the sector’s needs. Lectures and business opportuni-
Segment(s): Costume Jewellery
1.3.7. Contemporary Fashion Fairs and Markets —
12.000m2. Of all the buyers, 80% were domestic and
ties with information and knowledge recycling.
Website: http://masi-bijoias.com.br
A National Phenomenon
20% foreign.
COMTEX — Textile Components Fair
to mean “market”. The fashion fairs and markets (dif-
maintained its character of reflecting trends and the
Dates: 22/04/2008 - 24/04/2008
Event data: 5th edition of the event. Is becoming the
ferent than the popular markets) appeared in the 90s,
needs of a market that has gone through several eco-
Venue: Yellow Pavilion of the Expo Centre Norte
principal the fashion industry’s principal component.
and have been a great success with the young con-
nomic cycles. The first fair was held in August 1958
City: São Paulo
sumers in Rio and São Paulo. Such as the Rio market
in the International Pavilion of the Ibirapuera (de-
Segment(s): Costume Jewellery
“Babilônia Feira Hype”, planned by Robert Guimarães
molished in the 70s). Participants were textile mills,
Dates: 15/04/2008 - 18/04/2008
and Fernando Molinari and the São Paulo market
raw materials and machinery manufacturers. The 1st
“Mercado Mundo Mix” by Beto Lago. Both are examples
Golden Needle Award was awarded to then famous
Bijóias Rio — 19th edition
City: Recife
of successful undertakings and are at the vanguard of
stylist Denner (1978). The object of the award was
Event data: a select group of 35 designers and manu-
Segment(s): Textiles
fashion. While “Babilônia” was launched as a market
to encourage Brazilian stylists to show clothes made
facturers of costume jewellery, accessories, silver,
Website: http://www.meiraramos.com.br
to promote up and coming designers, (some of them
from Brazilian textiles.
steel and plated jewellery, the last edition attracted
In Brazil the frequently used word “fair” is also used
presently have shops all over Brazil, such as Farm);
Throughout its 50 year existence FENIT has
Since 2001 FENIT has added new elements to
Venue: Convention Centre of Pernambuco
1.800 buyers, exceeding the number of expected visi-
COUROMODA —International Footwear Fair —
36th edition
“Mercado Mundo Mix” also dedicated to emerging tal-
the Fair, such as Edelkort Studio’s forum Expofil, and
ent, is identified with alternative fashion more in gear
the Beauty Concept, showing that that Fashion can
with the lifestyle in São Paulo.
harmonize with people’s lifestyles. In 2005 the New
in Latin America. Established in 1973 the fair is held
Talent Salon was created and the Design Space Proj-
Dates: 11/09/2008 - 12/09/2008
each year in São Paulo. The event attracts retailers,
1.3.8. Trade Fairs — A Great Brazilian Fashion
ect. The first was intended to promote the participa-
Venue: Convention Centre Rio Othon Palace Hotel
importers and professionals involved in the footwear
Business
tion of new stylists; whilst the second was aimed at
City: Rio de Janeiro
industry, sporting goods and leather. In 2008 Couro-
The Business and Trade Fairs are different than the
design professionals specialized in the development
Segment(s): Costume jewellery
moda had 1.100 exhibitors and presented the collec-
popular fairs, the fashion fairs, and the more alterna-
of prints. The creative and innovative process contin-
tions of 3000 brands.
tive fashion markets. This type of fair began more
ues. In 2006 two events were added to the fair: FENIT
than 50 years ago in Brazil. The first edition of the In-
Business, traditional business divided into segments
Classification: International
ternational Textile Industry Fair (FENIT) in São Paulo
using exhibitor booths as dividers, and FENIT inspira-
Dates: 12/01/2009 - 15/01/2009
has become increasingly resourceful in promoting and
tion, a part dedicated to cultural and entertainment
Venue: Anhembi
marketing Brazilian products and labels. At present in-
events.
City: São Paulo
tors by 20% and generating R$ 4 million in business.
Event data: Couromoda is the largest specialized fair
numerable business fairs are held in the country. They
Segment(s): Shoes and accessories.
are extremely important for the Brazilian fashion
Website: http://www.couromoda.com
1.3.10. Main Fashion Trade Fairs in Brazil
Brazilian and foreign buyers.
Textiles: the Textile Centre of Rio has approximate-
scene and some of them have been added to the official agenda of the country’s business fairs, attracting
26
27
FASHION BUSINESS — Business Fair of Fashion Rio
FEMATEX — International Fair for Materials of the
FENIT —International Textile Industry Fair —
FRANCAL — 41st International Shoe, Fashion
Event data: Business arm of Fashion Rio, the event is
Textile Garment Industry
51st edition
Accessories, Machinery and Components Fair
the most important event where brands and fashion
Event data: Fematex 2008 is a textile fabrics fair for
Event data: FENIT is the most traditional and innova-
Event data: Largest trade fair for footwear, fashion
shops in Brazil and from abroad meet each other. Fash-
the fashion and garment industries. The fair shows
tive Textile Industry Fair. The FENIT brand is the most
and business in all of Latin America. FRANCAL is the
ion Business is a supported the FIRJAN System and SE-
novelties that promise to shake the fashion market
known name when one thinks of trade-fairs, besides
best place to make commercial contacts on an interna-
NAI — Fashion, is organized by “Dupla Assessoria” and
with the latest trends and technologies. Its objective
being one of the most recognized in the sector interna-
tional level. It is known as the sector’s most interna-
“Escala Events”, and is sponsored by the SEBRAE-RIO,
is to offer a variety of new products from the most
tionally. It is the ideal place to launch collections and
tional fair because of the large number of internation-
Oi Paggo, BNDES and INPI, and has the support of ABIT
diverse parts of the textile sector to enhance the
close deals related to the fashion industry an annual
al buyers who come to Brazil seeking Brazilian quality
and APEX. The launch of the spring-summer collec-
clothing industry
meeting place for buyers, sellers and the specialized
and design.
tion 2008/09 of the Fashion Business held from June
press.
10 to 13 2008, broke all records 1.300 visitors, among
them Brazilian and international buyers. Brazilian
Dates: 25/03/2008 - 28/03/2008
Dates: 14/07/2009 - 17/07/2009
sales reached R$ 443 million, R$ 8 million above the
Venue: Parque Vl. Germânica
Dates: 30/06/2009 - 02/07/2009
Venue: Anhembi
estimated R$ 435 million. A 5.4% increase above the
City: Blumenau
Venue: Anhembi
City: São Paulo
R$ 420 million achieved for the 2007 spring-summer
Segment (s): Textiles
City: São Paulo
Segment(s): Shoes and Accessories
edition. During the June 2008 edition foreign sales
Website: http://www.fematex.com.br
Website: http://www.fenit.com.br
Website: http://www.feirafrancal.com.br
FENATEC 2009 — Textile Industry Fair — 57th edition
FIMEC — International Leather Fair
TECNOGOLD — Technology, Gems and Design Fair —
Event data: Fenatec is the International Trade Fair
Event data: FIMEC — International Leather, Chemical
12th edition
of the Textile Industry, organized and promoted by
Products, Components, Equipment and Machinery for
Event data: Meeting of jewellers, sector businessmen
Dates: 13/01/2009 — 16/01/2009
“Alcântara Machado”, held in the city of São Paulo. The
Footwear and Tanneries is one of the most important
and specialists from various areas. Makes upgrad-
Venue: Marina da Glória
event presents the principal innovations and national
world level sectors. Held in Novo Hamburgo, State
ing and modernization of the industry possible with
City: Rio de Janeiro
and international launch of textiles. Fenatec 2009 will
of Rio Grande do Sul, it is always an important place
the introduction of machinery, innovative designs
Segment(s): Business/ Fashion
show cloth, processing, printing, imported textiles,
to show the most recent innovations for use in the
and market trends; is essential to make the jewel-
Website: http://www.fashionbusiness.com.br
decoration textiles, services, forums and conferences.
leather/footwear sector. It is a complete and dynamic
lery business increasingly competitive. TECNOGOLD
event which because of its tradition and character at-
contributes to the technological development of the
reached US$ 16.25 million, a considerable increase of
FEBRATEX — Brazilian Fair for the Textile Industry
tracts national and international buyers. It is the ideal
jewellery, plated jewellery, gems and costume jewel-
Event data: Its’ 11th edition. It is the largest Brazilian
Dates: 10/03/2009 - 13/03/2009
place to close deals and consolidate partnerships with
lery industries in Brazil.
textile fair organized by the FCEM company. It has
Venue: Anhembi
national or foreign companies willing to negotiate and
established its position because it brings together all
City: São Paulo
get to know new products and vendors. FIMEC 2009
parts of the sewing industry such as sewing ma-
will be presenting the latest products needed by the
Dates: 23/04/2009 - 25/04/2009
chines, cutters, labels, threads, buttons, packaging,
Website: http://www.fenatec.com.br
leather industry.
Venue: Events Centre of São Luís
City: São Paulo
equipment, finishing, printing, industrial automation,
looms and raw materials in one place.
Segment(s): Jewellery
Dates: 24/03/2009 - 27/03/2009
Website: http://www.tecnogold.com.br
Venue: FENAC Exhibition Park
Dates: 12/08/2008 - 15/08/2008
City: Novo Hamburgo
Place: Parque Vila Germânica
Segment(s): Footwear
Venue: Blumenau
Website: http://www.fimec.com.br/
16% above the US$ 14 million reached in January.
Website: http://www.febratex.com.br
28
29
TECNOTÊXTIL — Technology Fair
1.4. The Fashion Weeks in Brazil
1.4.1. Main Fashion Weeks in Brazil & other
Rio integrates style and business and offers a meeting
for the Textile Industry
The Fashion weeks only recently attained their pres-
Fashion Shows in the Southeast
place for fashion labels and their clients, both national
Event data: It is a fair dedicated to the production of
ent format. The Fashion weeks are held in various
raw materials and premium designs. Participants get
Brazilian cities, of which the most important are:
Fashion Rio (Rio de Janeiro)
SENAI event created and organized by Dupla Assesso-
the opportunity to exchange know-how and get ac-
Fashion Rio, Claro Rio Summer and São Paulo Fashion
Fashion Rio began as a Style Week in the local mall
ria and Escala Events. Banco do Brazil is the event’s of-
cess to the latest technology.
Week. In 60s fashion shows were presented at such
“Barra Shopping” in 1996. The Rio Fashion Week
ficial bank which is sponsored by Sebrae-RJ, Oi Paggo,
BNDES and INPI, with the support of ABIT and APEX.
and foreign. Fashion Business is a FIRJAN System and
fairs as FENIT whilst in the 70s they were held in large
began the first working partnerships between private
luxury hotels. In the 80s and 90s they were held in
companies and textile sector institutions FIRJAN and
Dates: 06/05/2008 - 09/05/2008
clubs and shopping malls. During the past decades,
ABIT, a milestone in the history of Brazilian fashion.
spring-summer 2008/09 at the Fashion Business, in
Venue: Convention Centre of Goiânia
the level of the shows, sponsors, and investments
Fashion Rio gave the sector visibility in and out of the
June 2008 broke all records. The event received 11.300
City: Goiânia
were far inferior to what they are today. In the past,
country, not only from the point of view of the col-
visitors. The volume of business surprised the organiz-
the famous front row as we see these days (seating
lections shown but also from the point of an industry
ers. Sales reached R$ 443 million, R$ 8 million above
Website: http://www.fcem.com.br
important international and national buyers and ce-
with a strong potential to create jobs and increase
estimate; an increase of 5.4% over the R$ 420 million
lebrities) did not exist. It was another kind of celebrity
exports.
attained during the last edition of the event.
Foreign sales were US$ 16.25 million in June
The Fashion Weeks became very successful.
stars, local political and society figures of the jet set.
Important labels, stylists, and designers from all seg-
2008, above the US$ 14 million reached in January,
The marketing of the collections was not as important
ments of the trade, from garments to accessories and
an impressive increase of 16%. The sponsors also cel-
as the publicity generated. At the moment the interna-
beachwear gather there to show their latest creations,
ebrated the success of this edition. The official Bank,
tional press spans the bridge between invitees, labels,
Run by Eloysa Simão (“Dupla Assessoria”, organizer of
Banco do Brazil, opened a new website for internation-
consumers and sales. Publicizing the labels is as
Fashion Rio and Fashion Business Fair), the event in
al business and raised Fashion business’ credit limit
equally important as the participation and exposure
Rio makes two annual presentations: autumn-winter
from US$ 20.000 to US$ 50.000 thousand dollars and
of Brazilian labels (and in some cases even interna-
in January and spring-summer in July). Companies
in order to ease foreign transactions it accepted credit
tional). The fashion weeks often lead to international
compete to have their name associated with the
card payments in dollars and euros.
and national success of the participating labels. Today
event. An event under the aegis of SENAI and the
the Brazilian fashion weeks welcome a great number
FIRJAN System Fashion Rio is co-sponsored by textile,
ceived an invitation to participate in the traditional
of buyers (national and international), journalists,
retail and cosmetics companies such as: ABIT, APEX-
business fair, Prêt à Porter Paris in September. This
fashion editors, opinion leaders and celebrities. Lately
Brazil, C&A and Nivea among others.
year 1.500 labels participated. The event took place at
“thematic editions” have dominated the fashion scene.
The master sponsor of the event known as “The
Because of its success Fashion Business re-
the Porte de Versailles, in Paris. The Brazilian labels
Official Sponsor of Brazilian Fashion in Rio de Janeiro”
Totem, Luísa Herculano, Kylza Ribas, Tai Dai, Gisele
(The Centenary of the Japanese Immigration), person-
was one of the Brazilian biggest telephone company
Barbosa, Dayrell and Cholate attracted the attention
alities (Carmem Miranda), contemporary movements
Oi. The company sponsored the event for eight years
of 180 buyers from countries such as France, England,
(Ecology, Sustainability), etc.
till 2008 using its presence and power to release
Portugal, Turkey and Japan. According to the promot-
new products and introduce new events run by its
ers of Fashion Business this initiative encourages
social responsibility institute “Oi Futuro”. Besides the
international competition among national companies,
Fashion Rio Oi, was also the chief sponsor of the Rio
especially those from Rio. An agreement was signed
Fashion Hype Award, — the objective being to launch
for Fashion Business to take part in five other editions
new stylists.
of the Prêt à Porter Paris. A business exchange is also
Themes are often chosen to celebrate foreign cultures
One of Fashion Rio’s greatest successes has
been the development of the Fashion Business, the
anticipated with French labels participating in the Rio
fair.
largest and most mobile business market in Brazilian
Fashion. The event that runs parallel to the Fashion
30
31
that appeared at the shows: big international film
It was said that the collection presented in the
with the other fashion events such as São Paulo Fash-
product launches, theme bars, see content distribution
the event was to be restructured to gain a wider audi-
ion Week or Fashion Rio that promote a broader range
equipment and look at the distribution of customized
ence. Backstage comments were that some exhibitors
by the InBrands Group, giving Paulo Borges (SPFW)
of fashion goods.
products.
were unhappy with the division between them and
It has a large number of sponsors. Compared to
the big labels. In June 2007, during the last edition of
sionals with their networks was asked to organize the
2007 “Banco Real” (ABN AMRO) increased the budget
FWHouse the 57 labels being shown attracted record
Fashion Rio/Fashion Business will not remain
event. It was managed by Carlos de Souza, right-hand
for the 2008 SPPW by 50%. Motorola “only” increased
breaking visits: almost 3.500 buyers equalling the
alone on the Rio fashion agenda at least for a while.
of the Italian stylist Valentino for more than 20 years
its budget by 10% for the same period; it is one of the
number of the three previous editions together. These
One more Fashion Week has just been launched in
and the Englishman Robert Forrest, with a portfolio of
oldest SPFW sponsors. Since 2000 it has used the
labels had a sales turnover of more than R$ 20 million.
2008: the Claro Rio Summer.
clients such as Armani, Ungaro, Calvin Klein, Elizabeth
fashion week to present its new mobile phone models.
The stylists from the State of Paraíba who used the
Hurley and Gianbatista Valli. A prestigious figure in
Tetra-Pak is another company that makes use of the
cotton developed in their region even sold the items
Claro Rio Summer (Rio de Janeiro)
the international fashion circuit, Forrest has acted as
SPFW to interact with its clients and suppliers. Tetra-
shown at the show. The near 2.000 showrooms had a
Claro Rio Summer began in November 2008 and is the
head buyer for shops such as Maxfield in California
Pak first took part in 2007, since then the company
total turnover of R$ 1.5 billion.
new fashion week in Rio de Janeiro conceived by busi-
and Browns in London.
has increased its investment by 20%.
the direction of this event — taking the place of the
former director Heloisa Simão.
nessman and advertising specialist Nizan Guanaes,
A team of internationally recognized profes-
The labels that took part in the first edition of
In August 2008, The PCP Fund (Pactual Capital
Partners) took control of the SPFW. According to the
president of the ABC Group. His idea was to gather the
the event were selected by Robert Forrest and Donata
company “Schincariol”, the carmaker Fiat, and the
agreement the InBrands fund assumed control of
best beach fashion labels in Brazil to gain the status of
Meirelles, head buyer of imported labels at the multi-
Brazilian footwear company Grendene (through
the “Luminosidade” company owned by Paulo Borges
beachwear capital of the world. After all as Amir Sla-
brand “Daslu” (SP) together with Carlos de Souza and
their Melissa label), are some amongst the dozens
(mentor of the SPFW), though management will be
ma, one of the top Brazilian beachwear stylists says,
the stylist Lenny Niemeyer, are the foursome that
of sponsors and supporters of the SPFW. One of the
shared with Borges who will remain its’ president. The
the country has a summer which in practice lasts eight
manages the event. The selection criteria for the
companies that invests the most in fashion in Bra-
intention is to develop new projects, create regional
months. The ad-man created the jingle “Everybody
labels was that each one present something different
zil is the telecom operator “Oi” (one of the largest in
fashion events in Brazil as well as abroad. There will
loves Rio” and in November 2008 he held an event that
than the international market is used to seeing during
the country). It sponsors other fashion weeks in the
be national awards for the sector, and the SPFW will
attracted national and international attention. With an
the world’s principal fashion weeks. The labels were:
country and started participating in the SPFW in June
travel to several cities in Brazil.
initial investment of R$ 10 million Claro Rio Summer in
Adriana Degreas, Blue Man, Carlos Mièle, Cia Marítima,
2008. Fashion next to sport, music and culture is one
its’ second edition intends not only to incorporate the
Cris Barros, 284, Iódice, Isabela Capeto, Jo de Mer,
of the pillars of their entertainment marketing, and
Other Fashion Weeks in the Country
Brazilian lifestyle (especially from Rio) into fashion
Lenny, Osklen, Raia de Goeye, Rosa Chá, Salinas, To-
in which they will have invested R$ 50 million just in
The outstanding investment and media success of the
scene but also create business opportunities with a
tem and Triya. The shows were held in two tents with
2008. The company wants have its brand associated
Rio and São Paulo Fashion Weeks has given a boost to
sustainability theme. According to data supplied by
a capacity of 400 and 300 persons respectively, with
with innovation, boldness and predicting trends, the
more than 50 fashion events in the country. During
ABIT Brazil produced more than 273 million pieces of
a special area set aside for those who planned to show
company’s communication objectives.
this decade it has inspired other cities to present their
beachwear in 2007.
their collections in a non-conventional manner.
At the moment SPFW is the most important
According to the journalist Vanessa Barone,
“Natura” a Brazilian cosmetics brand; the drinks
own fashion show weeks. But none of them have
Fashion event in Latin America and is on the interna-
the same character as their counterparts in Rio or
from “Valor Econômico” - one of the most prestigious
SPFW - São Paulo Fashion Week - (São Paulo)
tional agenda, putting São Paulo on the international
São Paulo. In terms of volume, launching trends and
economics’ newspapers in Brazil - the Development
Under the leadership of Paulo Borges (owner of the
fashion scene, next to Paris, London, Milan and New
fashion. Such is the case with the fashion circuits “Oi”
Minister, Miguel Jorge, thinks that beachwear is an
agency “Luminosidade”), the São Paulo Fashion Week
York. More that 5000 newspaper and magazine pages,
Fashion Tour (Belo Horizonte — MG, Salvador — Ba-
important showcase for Brazilian fashion since it rep-
(SPFW) was created in 2001 in order to attract the
national and foreign, are filled with news of the event.
hia, Recife — Pernambuco E, Vitória — Espirito Santo),
resents 15% of the Brazilian textile industry.
attention of the world fashion market. Today SPPW
Almost 300 TV hours from the most varied channels
the Minas Trend Preview (Belo Horizonte — MG), the
has 15 main sponsors and the event hosts 75.000
are devoted to covering the event.
“Dragão” Fashion Brazil (Fortaleza — Ceará), the Floripa
For Nizan Guanaes, Brazilian beach fashion can
In 2006 SPFW launched its’ own business fair
Fashion Donna DC (Florianópolis — Santa Catarina),
become just as good as the fashion goods produced
visitors. With more than 50 Brazilian and interna-
by such companies such as Vale, Havaianas, Gerdau,
tional fashion houses taking part SPPW offers various
FWHouse +B, created to reach stylists and buyers
the Curitiba Fashion Art (Curitiba — Paraná) and the
Grendene, Embraer, AmBev, and other successful
means of communication so that participants can look
from Brazil and abroad. During the January 2008
Capital Fashion Week (Brasília).
Brazilian brands. The businessman however likes to
at the way companies from the most varied sectors
edition the SPFW organization announced it was
explain that Rio Summer does not want to compete
carry out their work. Visitors can visit exhibitions,
cancelling FWHouse +B. The justification being that
32
33
In April 17th, 2009, Firjan has announced the
acquisition of Fashion Rio brand for the next 10 years,
South-eastern Region
1.5. Fashion Brazil for Export:
diamonds, the perfect translation of modern ‘high-low
spired the Prostitute’s NGO “Davida” to launch their
Some “Made in Brazil” Success Cases / Brands
fashion’. The results of these cooperative partnerships
In 2005 the increasing alternative niche inown label. Named Daspu, a corruption of the name
Nowadays the label “Brazil” has been very well
are one of the reasons why Brazilian jewellery has
Casa de Criadores (House of Creators)
Daslu + the suffix “puta”, meaning whore caused a
received abroad for many reasons. Since the 1990’s
become an internationally desired consumption object
Proceeding the two most important fashion weeks in
lot of controversy because the pun made fun of the
Brazilian models have figured on the catwalks as
not only in Brazil but also abroad, especially amongst
the country, Rio and São Paulo, is the Fashion Week
name of the famous fashion store Daslu in São Paulo,
some of best paid super models on the planet such
celebrities.
“Casa de Criadores — Lab Project”. Set up by André
favourite of nine in ten of the rich and famous in the
as tops Gisele Bündchen, Jeisa Chiminazzo, Isabeli
Hidalgo in May 1997 when he brought together the
country. It thereby got media attention. Its’ clothes
Fontana, Ana Cláudia Michels, Ana Beatriz Barros, Ana
shoe, which will be 30 years old in 2009. Inspired by
young stylists Marcelo Sommer, Annelise de Salles,
are defined as “combat clothes” (street and house),
Hickmann, Luciana Curtis, Mariana Weickert, Isabela
the shoes worn by the French Riviera fishermen, the
Elisa Stecca, Jeziel Moraes and Martielo Toledo, the
leisure (beach, parks and gardens), and party (parties
Fiorentino, Michelle and Letícia Birkheuer, Raquel Zim-
Grendene footwear company launched the plastic
Casa de Criadores — Lab Project”. held its first shows at
and carnival), and activist (human rights and VD/Aids
merman, Marcelle Bittar, Caroline Ribeiro, Fernanda
sandal which became a visibly successful Brazilian
the Headquarters of the Social Security Fund of São
prevention). They can be purchased at an online store
Tavares, Fernanda Motta, Gianne Albertoni, Michelle
product, next to Havaianas. In 2005 in São Paulo the
Paulo. It did not have any official sponsoring. Today it
called “putique”. The label’s shows (whose slogan is
Alves, Bruna Tenório, Carol Trentini, Alessandra
world’s first plastic concept store was opened, the
is one of the most prestigious events and a recognized
“The Fashion that Gets a Rise”) have become a sort of
Ambrosio, Izabel Goulart and Adriana Lima are only a
“Galleria Melissa”, a pop-futuristic space designed by
venue for new national fashion talent.
hype event in the Fashion Rio. It attracts celebrities
few of them. The latter three are under contract with
Muti Randolph. Found in approximately 3000 shops
and the public in general and occurs parallel to Fash-
the American lingerie label Victoria’s Secret, earning
around the world, amongst them concept stores in
launched stylists such as Icarius Menezes, Mareu
ion Rio, but instead of lighting and special scenery, the
millions. In the last show held in the second quarter of
Europe, such as Colette’s in Paris and on Dover Street
Nitschke, Marcelo Quadros, Giselle Nasser, Gustavo
models are the prostitutes of the NGO itself, and the
2008 the majority of the models were Brazilian.
Market in London, or the fashionable Azzuro in Am-
Silvestre, Jeziel Moraes, João Pimenta, Karlla Girotto,
show is held on the street. In June 2008, besides Rio,
Lorenzo Merlino, Ronaldo Fraga, Jum Nakao, André
Daspu took its collection to São Paulo, Florianópolis
also responsible for exporting “Brazil Brand” and im-
partnerships with foreign and Brazilian designers;
Lima, Fábia Berseck Caio Gobbi and labels such as
and Belo Horizonte.
age to the major world fashion centres.
among them Jean-Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler,
Throughout its 23 editions in 11 years it
H.Stern (jewellery) is the most prestigious
Sommer, Theodora, Carlota Joakina, V.Rom and Caval-
sterdam. Melissa’s policy is to set up creative working
Vivienne Westwood, Alexandre Herchcovitch, Marcelo
era — and style is still being signed by Thaís Losso and
brand in Brazil and one of the most important jewel-
Sommer and Thaís Losso. These working partnerships
Taciana Menezes.
lers in the world. Roberto Stern, the company’s presi-
go beyond fashion, reaching national and interna-
dent and creative director, is considered an example of
tional artists, designers and architects like Romero
Convention Centre “Frei Caneca” in São Paulo, 16
success for Brazilians. H.Stern’s recent collections are
Britto, Judy Blame, Patrick Cox, J.Maskrey, the Campa-
labels showed their collections. Featured were styl-
inspired by various elements of Brazilian culture (from
nas brothers, Karim Rashid and Zaha Hadid. In 2007
ist Walério Araújo and two other labels, the veteran
indigenous culture to the amazing work of the Brazil-
they launched a colourful collection reproducing the
“Gêmeas” (Twins) headed by the sisters Carol and
ian architect Oscar Niemeyer) to create the collections
famous Dutch clogs (though the design is a little dif-
Isadora Foes Krieger, one of the preferred labels of
such as Purãmgaw, and Oscar Niemeyer. The Brazil-
ferent, and so are the materials and colours). Melissa’s
trendy São Paulo girls); and the starter in fashion,
ian designers (and brothers) Humberto and Fernando
also reuses and recycles materials used in producing
“Purpure” (of the partners Weider Silveiro and Mark
Campana created the collections “Orbis Descriptio and
the sandals.
Greiner). Since October 2006 with the end of the Amni
Campana”. The eternal Brazilian Bombshell, the singer
Hot Spot (a fashion talent incubator created in 2001
and actress Carmen Miranda was the inspiration for
In the beginning they were just flip-flop sandals,
by Paulo Borges in Partnership with Rhodia, (Rhone-
the lines of “Roda Viva”, Copacabana and “Ginga”, and
extremely cheap, and this made them very popular.
Poulenc Amni fibres), the “Casa de Criadores” keeps
the Brazilian Contemporary Dance Group O Corpo (The
Forty years later the sandals are still success and are
going as the only event for young stylists on the São
Body) also have inspired one of the most interesting
copied by factories in Brazil and abroad. This success
Paulo agenda for the last couple of years it has been
H. Stern collections. Even an unusual partnership of
is the result of intensive marketing. The international
sponsored by the appliance brand “Brastemp”.
Havaianas sandals, with the jeweller H. Stern, inspired
boom only started in the 90s when the Alpargatas
an exquisite flip-flop sandal “Havaianas H. Stern”, with
Company celebrated the fact that it had sold its 100th
the rubbers strips covered with golden feathers and
million pair. Havaianas were the precursors of a huge
The last edition in May 2008 held at the
Big labels, stylists and national designers are
Another “Made in Brazil” world hit is the Melissa
34
Havaianas, another hit, were launched in 1962.
35
Other noteworthy fashion shows in the
export boom in typical Brazilian products. The casual
ist towns Búzios and Paraty, and two in Paris. There
projects with communities in the State of Amapá. But
on the periphery of Campina Grande. The collection
sandals started to attract the attention at national and
are franchises in the States of Pernambuco and Rio
Éden was only the pinnacle of a phenomenon that
developed using cotton that is already coloured when
international events, and today they are worn from
Grande do Norte and a shop in Portugal. Distributors in
has marked Fashion Brazil during this decade, from
harvested is a rereading of the North-eastern culture
the Americas to the Pacific, and became an interna-
Australia, New Zealand, Switzerland, Germany, Italy,
the production of cotton, to educating the consumer.
linked to international fashion trends. Of the prod-
tional fashion icon.
England, Ireland, Denmark and the United States. He
There are a large number of Eco-design programmes
ucts manufactured by NF almost 60% are T-shirts.
has five awards “L’Étoile de Mode” from the Bijohrca
linked to fashion, the largest part of them to do with
And the leftovers are used to make decorative basics,
in the shop windows of the world and they occupied
Salon, and the Éclat de Mode in Paris, the principal
small scale production and the strong participation of
needlepoint, pillows, dolls and animals. The rest of the
an entire block of the “Printemps” a famous Parisian
international accessories fair. In 2001 he opened his
artisan labour.
leftovers are deformed to become yarn again. Packag-
department store, whilst in 2005 they dominated the
first shop in Paris. Since then he has gained customers
celebrations marking the Brazil Year in France. Today
all over the world with the “Brazilianess” of his items.
(Rio de Janeiro) are labels connected with sustainable
plastic costs four times as much. Bags are made from
its daily production is 530.000 pairs, 171 million per
In 2007 he faced his biggest challenge: his first collec-
design. Both use technology developed by the Federal
recycled cardboard.
year, manufactured in a factory in Campina Grande,
tion synchronized with the launch of the collection in
University of Rio Grande do Sul (UFRGS) in partnership
State of Paraíba, from where they are exported to
Paris. This means trying to anticipate trends a year in
with “Artecola Chemical Industry Ltd.”. The objective
used especially by people allergic to artificially dyed
88 countries. And just like the “Galleria Melissa” the
advance what will dominate the European catwalks.
is to broaden the market for thermal gluing layers for
textiles and by those who are preoccupied with
Havaianas recently opened their own shop on “Rua
In the same year Sobral signed important agreements
use in the garment industry. The designers at the uni-
preserving nature. These garments are much more
Oscar Freire” (São Paulo), a shop designed by the
with the prestigious French label Agnès B and with
versity have invented new techniques to treat fashion
expensive then similar clothes. However in countries
architect Isay Weinfeld. The 300 m2 space will act as a
Karl Lagerfeld, the creative director of Chanel. Sobral
textiles that make use of ecologically correct thermal
such as Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Norway and
showcase for the brand and they will sell all 80 models
is also doing work for Valentino Garavani.
layers, that are being which have been sponsored
Japan consumers of ecologically correct textiles are
ing consists of non recycled plastic because recycled
The garments made from coloured cotton are
at scientific events, fairs and fashion shows. This
willing to pay 25% more for these products. Every
1.6. Ecology and Sustainability: Conscious
technology gives clothes a new durable, comfortable
month Natural Fashion exports almost 5000 pieces of
Havaianas has decided to invest in a new product:
Fashion Uniting Businessmen and Artisans
look. There is also the advantage of using residual and
textile and supplies the internal market with 25000
a series of handbags made from rubber and canvas.
The attitude of Brazilian industry towards ecology
leftover cloth as well as reducing production time and
pieces through a network of shops that represent NF;
Eight models in 35 colours will be sold in one-hundred
and sustainability has changed a lot. Textile manufac-
costs.
they have also started a shop in Portugal. In 2007 pro-
shops in the country. They will be launched in the
turers, labels and stylists are becoming more and more
Northern Hemisphere in mid 2009. Almost 80% of the
preoccupied with such issues. Brazil has the largest
enough just to be simply ecologically involved, one
handbags will be made in China, and the remainder
tropical forest and river basin system in the world
must add good design. In April 2000, with this market
in Brazil. The bags have everything to become the
with a great bio-diversity, Due to the destruction of
perception in mind, the Natural Fashion Consortia in
to study colour limitations. Besides the various tones
next Brazilian and world fashion hit. The granules
the Amazonian environment Brazilian scientists,
Campina Grande (Paraíba) was set up. The objective is
of beige, cream, brown, rust many others combina-
that decorate the soles of the sandals will appear as
researches from various fields and also stylists are in-
to strengthen textile companies and garment manu-
tions are possible by mixing the fibbers, such as light
decoration on the handbag’s handle. The handles are
creasingly trying to find ways to develop fashion that
facturers so that they can meet foreign competition
pink and green. Research is continuing and new tones
interchangeable. Its synthetic rubber looks like the
can effectively contribute to the saving the planet’s
head on. To do this the Consortia’s participants sought
have been promised soon. These tones will be very
sandals but is made of another more resistant mate-
environment. There are many examples: In June 2008
coloured cotton, a product which could serve as a
welcome since the fashion market demands con-
rial. Buttons and metal rings complete the design
for instance, the first 100% organic garment label
competitive differential for the 10 member group of
stantly different colour ranges that follow trends. The
developed by the company’s Brazilian design team
was launched in Brazil: the “Éden” brand. Its entire
companies. The attempt failed and it became neces-
reduced colour range could be seen as a weak point for
and Ideo, a brand and design office in London.
collection, from jeans to T-shirts, uses pure organic
sary to form a production cooperative to attract new
coloured cotton, but the advantages for the planet of
cotton dyed with natural pigments and totally free
partners and to sell the products. Today there are 35
using of coloured cotton should far out way the disad-
international success Sobral — an accessories label
of harmful chemicals. Even the shop furniture in São
partners of whom 25 are garment manufacturers.
vantages when wearing coloured cotton. A “normal”
whose products are made from polyester resin. The
Paulo is manufactured with environmentally friendly
company was started by the well known designer
materials and uses wood from demolition sites and
made product, ecologically and socially correct, also
Carlos Alberto Sobral in the 70s. Today there are
hangers made from bamboo manufactured by the
using the concept of family agriculture, cooperative
five shops in Rio de Janeiro, two in the coastal tour-
bamboo factory “Bamcrus”, which runs sustainable
labour, mother clubs and neighbourhood associations
of the sandal, including those only found abroad.
After 46 years dedicated exclusively to sandals
Anne Anicet (Porto Alegre) and Maria Bonita
Beside Havaianas and Melissa there is another
36
The word “Eco-design” means that it is not
Natural Fashion offers the quality of a hand
duction increased 300% on an annual basis and there
is capacity enough to make 50 pieces per month.
The agricultural institute Embrapa continues
T-shirt uses almost 200g of chemical products an
organic T-shirt only uses 2g.
37
In 2001 Havaianas were prominently displayed
1.7. PET Knitwear — A Proposal for an Organic
one of the poorest and driest regions of Brazil”. The
responsibility and environmental policies. Some Bra-
silk, organic cotton and the T-shirts with the PET
Textile
sport shoe has been created with three principles in
zilian labels are remarkable because of the initiatives
yarn it uses instead of the common polyester fiber
Another very important proposal is to make use on an
mind: the use of ecological materials, using natural
they have taken in using recycled materials in their
derived from oil. The label adapts materials used in
large industrial scale of PET (Polyethylene) a ther-
rubber and cotton bought by buyers who respect the
products. Among them: Osklen and Sementeira both
other industries that supply the garment industry. It
mal plastic polymer that can be reprocessed various
dignity of the workers (fair-trade). The country also
from Rio de Janeiro.
has a working partnership with Alpargatas — which
times and used for packaging and bottles. Due to its
inspired the creation of “Veja”. One of its collections is
extensive application possibilities it is one of the most
based on the volleyball uniforms of the 70s. Pop aes-
1.8. The Osklen Case
ously only used as tarpaulins to cover lorries and that
recycled plastics in the world, PET is used in the tex-
thetics, street wear, and a line of baby clothes are also
a Brazilian Brand Partner in Sustainability
is now used in luxury design pieces Osklen’s tussle
tile sector to manufacture garments, sports articles,
form part of the company’s range of clothing. In the
Created in 1989 by Oskar Metsavah, Osklen (RJ) was
with Green Fashion has borne fruit: the label has 44
suitcases, shoes, non-fabrics, packaging and lining for
virtual shop “Adili” specialized in ecological fashion a
at the time, only a small shop in Búzios, the well
shops in Brazil, 3 in Italy, 2 in the United States, 4 in
winter jackets, etc. Brazil produces more than 200.000
pair of shoes can cost up to £60 (almost R$ 200).
known city (famous for its beaches) in the northern
Portugal, 1 in Switzerland and 1 in Japan besides being
The brand “Amazon Life” was one of the
part of the state of Rio de Janeiro. Ten years later the
distributed in France, Spain, Greece, Arab Emirates
pioneers in promoting the sustainability and environ-
brand was the first to invest heavily in research and
and is sold in stores in Turkey, the Netherlands and
Recycling means that a variety of social projects can
mentally friendly products in Brazil (since the 80’s)
the production of ecologically correct materials. At
South Africa.
be carried out. The creation of cooperatives such as
and also uses Brazil as source for raw materials for
the end of 1999, Osklen created a collection called
that of bottle collectors means significant reduction
its’ sustainable handbags, briefcases, rucksacks and
the “e-brigade”, following the principle of the 5 “E”s:
1.9. The Scarcity of Organic Raw Materials
in rubbish that disappears into landfills. Furthermore,
headgear produced from latex collected by Amazon
“Earth”, “Environment” “Energy”, “Education” and
One of Osklen’s biggest challenges with Eco-design,
one should mention the social inclusion of innumer-
Indians and Rubber trappers. The brand which sells
“Empowerment”. These were the base for a movement
also faced by other labels in Brazil, is production.
able families who have the opportunity to work new
online to the whole world and in shops in the United
which lasted 7 years and became the “E Institute”, a
The demand for sustainable products is increasing
market niches. The “Unnafibras Têxtil” is one of 22
States and Rio de Janeiro has this year gone into
not-for-profit organization in Rio de Janeiro promoting
steadily but at the moment there is insufficient supply
Brazilian companies that transform recycled PET into
partnership with Tereza Santos to present the stylist’s
Brazil as the “country of sustainable development”.
of materials to meet the needs of their collections. In
new products. Their production capacity is 3.000 ton
summer collection of ”OEstudio” and “Rainha”. Mal-
The intention is to make visible the themes, projects
an Osklen shop there are almost 30 products made
per month of recycled PET fibbers that are used to
haria Menegotti (Knitwear) who runs the labels Colcci
and partners involved in the human, environmental,
from this kind of material. However, because of lack of
manufacture automobile seats, pillows, mattresses,
and Sommer is one of the suppliers of 100% organic
cultural and economic development in the areas of
raw materials it is not always possible to have 100%
non-fabrics and synthetic leather, and exports to
cotton to labels such as UMA of stylist Raquel Davido-
education and social mobility.
organic fibbers in the clothes made by the company.
Argentina, Chile, Uruguay and Mexico.
wicz. Osklen, Cantão and Redley are among the other
Society at large also gains from the use of PET.
Brazilian fashion produces T-shirts and jeans
made from recycled PET fibbers. Large companies like
brands that use the product.
The textile sector has increasingly been posi-
Another project of the ‘E Institute’ in fashion
Often 3% organic material means 100% of the suppli-
is the “e-fabric” a report of sustainable materials that
er’s production. Even so Osklen prefers to use a small
have been researched, identified and verified as to
percentage than to not use any at all, since adding it to
Rhodia-Ster, Santista Têxtil and Unnafibras Têxtil, as
tioning itself in this new “Green Market”. The modern-
their being in agreement with the sustainability goals.
the composition of its garments means generating bit
well as famous labels such as M.Officer, Mário Queiroz,
ization and the increase in productivity has become a
Osklen’s intention is not to become a certifying agent
by bit the growth of the producer.
Glória Coelho and Osklen have already introduced PET
reality in all segments of the industry. Almost US$ 1
but an institute capable of identifying initiatives all
clothing in their collections. The “Alya Eco” fiber is
billion in investments a year are used to buy modern
over the country. The label is aware that only large
organic fabrics in some of his collections but has also
an example of a project that works with PET fibbers
equipment. This as well as investments in buildings,
scale use of this type of fabric will be made if and
faced the same problem as other stylists and design-
developed by Rhodia-Ster.
capacity and research is proof of the constant expan-
when it manages to incorporate producers that can
ers - a lack of materials. Greenpeace faces the same
sion in quality. So too is the provision of higher level
guarantee quality and quantities.
problems and quite a lot of its clothing is not made
Large national brands have increased their use
The stylist Ronaldo Fraga (MG) has already used
of organic cotton to produces all kinds of garments,
technical courses in design run by academic institu-
from head to feet, i.e. Eco-bags to sports shoes. The
tions and Brazilian and international companies to
Institute (IBD), that grants the NOW (Natural Organic
organic materials, labels on the clothes must state
latter is a hit in Europe, United States, Canada and Asia
develop products using nano technology as well as
World) certificate via the “Coexis” Company. .
place of origin, renewable material used, what kind of
and all the raw material for the shoes is produced in
products made from 100 polyester; the same material
Ceará. The origin of the product is highlighted in the
used in PET bottles. The companies of Fashion Brazil
with various materials, such as leather from sweet
does not pollute water or air) whether the discarded
promotional material which classifies the region “as
see that success today is synonymous with social
water fish and Amazonian latex, ecological handmade
clothes contaminate the soil, etc. The only companies
38
The certifying agency is the Biodynamic
Since 2000 Osklen has been experimenting
from organic materials. To achieve the same level as
uncontaminated production processes employed (that
39
tons of PET plastic per year.
makes canvas out of Amazonian jute fibbers, previ-
that are presently certified by the IBD are: Natural
PA (State Agricultural Research Institute), identified
cotton farmers to seek new frontiers where they can
sumption of natural fibbers being larger than that of
Fashion, a Paraíba label and Éden from São Paulo that
some Brazilian species of arboreal cottons which have
expand their plantations. This has caused the migra-
manufactured fibbers in Brazil, there is a world trend
recently opened its first shop in Vila Madalena. Both
been kept in germinating plasma banks since 1984. In
tion of cotton producers to the central-western region
towards a decrease in the use of natural fibbers (ap-
follow the legal guidelines that demand soil conserva-
1989 with the arrival of Japanese textile companies
of Mato Grosso where there is the right climate and
proximately 40%) and an increase in manufactured
tion, respect for the local bio-diversity and the ban on
interested in such fibbers work began on the genetic
unrivalled soil conditions. Flat areas with regular rain-
ones (almost 60%) due to more relative competition.
the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides and trans-
improvement of the fibbers to increase their strength,
fall are important to reach the quality levels required
Synthetic fibbers are mainly used to produce lingerie,
genic products. However Natural Fashion and Éden
fineness, length and uniformity by crossing them
for natural fibbers. Production has been revolution-
sportswear and beachwear.
face the typical Eco-design dilemma: having more
with white cotton.
ized, quantity and quality has improved thanks to
eco than design. They maintain the problem has not
There are 39 wild species of coloured fiber
that do research to develop more competitive, ecologi-
analysis and market research.
cally correct materials is increasing. An example is
yet been that According to them it is a problem which
cotton. Cross-breeding with brown, cream and green
has not yet been resolved precisely because of the
cotton saw the launch of brown cotton in 2000 and
scarcity of raw materials. In the last instance this will
green in 2003. The sapphire, ruby, and cottons with a
showed that there were very few countries in the
dedicated to the conservation of socio-environmental
delay mass adherence to ecologically correct fashion.
reddish brown colour were launched in 2005. Embrapa
world that had the possibility to increase cotton
resources and the Brazilian biodiversity since the 90s.
Apart from rather unattractive designs there is also
which invested in research and technology developed
production, either because they did not have sufficient
Presently it is working on 30 projects involving envi-
the question of price. Because of the small quantities
the best coloured cotton fiber in the world. The great
land available or because they concentrated their ef-
ronmental education, habitat restoration, eco-tourism
of organic cotton available, it makes it very expensive
advantage of coloured cotton is that it need not be
forts on producing food; and they depended on irriga-
and income generation through sustainable practices.
and this cost is passed on to the consumer.
dyed. The colour does not fade because it is resistant
tion to produce cotton. Brazil, on the other hand, has
In partnership with “Alpargatas” it has developed the
to light and chlorine, a very important ingredient in
great producing potential. According to the Develop-
so-called Eco Jute, a canvas made of jute fibbers from
ment with the waste water. However it is grown on
the textile and garment sector. It does away with the
ment Ministry the leap in the 2000 and 2001 harvest
the Amazon and produced by “Têxtil Castanhal” the
small scale farms. The harvest is done by hand, yield is
use of chemical products to treat cotton lessening the
was surprising, allowing Brazil to cease importing and
second largest jute producer in the world. The product
not high, though prices for coloured cotton are higher
impact on the environment.
begin exporting cotton: in 2001, it imported US$ 96
decomposes easily. Eco Jute also makes use of recycled
million worth of cotton (which represented a reduc-
PET fibbers and cotton fabric leftovers. Besides it not
Coloured cotton reduces dying costs and treat-
than those for normal white cotton. It would be worth-
At the beginning of the year 2000, studies
The cultivation of coloured cotton has provided
the “Ipê Institute” in the interior of São Paulo that is
while finding out whether the already mentioned
new jobs and market alternatives in the Northeast.
tion of 70% over 2000) and exported US$ 155 million
dyed in order to save water. All factory remnants are
higher price is not raising the price for the consumer,
In 2000 in Campina Grande the Natural Fashion
(370% more than the previous year). The 1999/2000
treated and the recycled water is returned to the en-
who normally pays more for ecological products which
export consortium was formed consisting of weav-
harvest of 700.300 tons was 34.6% higher than
vironment being of a better quality than the incoming
supposedly are more economic. Maybe the small
ers, garment and decoration manufacturers. They
the 1998/1999 harvest whilst the production for
water. The printing of Textil Castanhal labels is done
farmer could be helped via policies guaranteeing sus-
use coloured cotton that is synonymous with hand
2000/2001 was 940.300 tons, and has made the
with an eco-solvent.
tainable development.
made, new market niches, getting certified, and fair
country self-sufficient in cotton.
The quality of Brazilian cotton production has
1.10. Export Type Fibbers —
in large scale industrial production. Yarn producers
advanced in leaps and bounds, thanks to the research
Organic Cotton from Brazil. A reality
make threads for flat fabrics and for knitwear, such as
and technology transfer done by Embrapa. Every-
Ancient societies in Africa have been cultivating
“Braseda”, one of the Caboteste companies. Flat weav-
thing was aimed at improving production systems
cotton since 4500 B.C. whilst in the Americas cotton
ing is done in Pernambuco. The “Pirapoma” company
and developing new cotton varieties adapted to crop
was being grown by the pre-Columbian civilizations
makes fine canvas, sacking and tricoline. Circular
growing in the plains’ region. Some new varieties were
(Incas and Aztecs). It is a kind of primitive species of
knitting is carried out by Coteminas and Matesa in João
modified to grow on small landholdings, increasing
cotton found in the colours brown and cream. During
Pessoa that also produce piqué, half-knits, sweatshirt
the value of the product (coloured cotton or super long
the Industrial Revolution weaving on manual looms
material, ribbed and furrowed fabrics.
fibbers) and to meet international quality and high
was substituted for machines. Coloured cotton was
During the last couple of years Brazilian cotton
pricing. These days, Coloured cotton is also being used
That is why the number of Brazilian institutes
growing investments in research, technology, cost
productivity levels.
The mixture of manufactured and natural
rejected because its fibbers were too thin and short.
has become very competitive. The need to compete
Instead white cotton was preferred because its fibbers
and provide the country’s garment industry with
fibbers has given them greater strength, durability,
are long and uniform. Research carried out by EMBRA-
fibbers comparable to the imported ones has led the
ease of handling and presentation. Despite the con-
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41
1.11. The Solidarity Economy
sans), Taguatinga (Cia. Artcum, artisans); Planaltina
Business and became known abroad. The members of
Brazilians are preoccupied with ecology, the poor
(Rurart, artisans); São Sebastião (Among Us, artisans
CSJ community have already shown their clothes at
ents of Brazil Project vary from garments to objects,
population, the ethics of products from production
and Sintonia, embroidery); Paranoá (Noart, embroi-
the Texworld in Paris, and Fenatec 2006 (International
accessories and jewellery, its prices are fixed accord-
to final consumer that has bred an economic solidar-
dery); Sobradinho (Costurart, seamstresses and Gama
Weaving Fair) in São Paulo. They have launched their
ing to costs, raw materials, taxes, logistics, labour
ity network in fashion. There two basic premises:
(Maria Brejeira, artisans). The associations manage
own label “AcomB”, produced by the poor teens of the
and other items defined by the groups and with the
avoid exploiting the producer or artisan and stop
these ventures is under the supervision of the UnB.
“Cidade Alta” community (Rio suburb).
support of the program’s team.
the destruction of the environment. It is a form of
The Social Incubator of the Labor Union (CDT) selected
economy based on democracy and people involvement
the organizations in 2005. They were trained how to
1.12. Talentos do Brasil / Talents of Brazil
ticipate in exhibitions and fairs to with the garment
with a view to improving collective well-being, from
sell their products.
Program: Citizenship, Ecology and Sustainability
trade, design, tourism and small holdings, etc. and can
In 2005 the Talents of Brazil Program was created
be seen in Brazilian TV productions.
of a project and the division of earnings. Part of the
was price calculation. Participants learned how to cal-
by the Ministry for Agrarian Development, with the
income is used too pay the overheads and the remain-
culate the sales price based on the number of produc-
objective of stimulating information exchange be-
that values hand made things, the program’s produc-
der is divided between the members of the association
tion hours and the complexity of the techniques used
tween artisans of Brazil’s rural areas to create jobs and
tion crossed borders and is being sold in the countries
who worked on the project.
to make a product. That is why a skirt embroidered
increase the value of their products. Today it coordi-
of Latin America and Europe, and has received the
attention of the specialist press.
In 2007 with the new Brazilian fashion profile
with wool thread in floral motives stands out because
nates the work of more than two thousand persons
One of them was the Project “Nós” (Us), a program of
of the delicate workmanship and hence can cost up to
from 15 groups in 12 Brazilian States: Tocantins, Pará,
the Artisan Cooperative of Rio Grande do Sul (Coo-
R$ 300. Each workshop is trained according the needs
Maranhão, Piauí, Paraíba, Bahia, Mato Grosso do Sul,
and now receives advice and help from important
parigs),. It was set up in 2005, by the Surface Design
of the members of the association. For example cut-
Pernambuco, Minas Gerais, Rio de Janeiro and Rio
Brazilian stylists and designers such as Ronaldo Fraga
Unit of the Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul.
ting fabric can be improved once one knows the kind
Grande do Sul. The majority of the groups were formed
(Minas Gerais) and Jum Nakao (São Paulo), among
The project’s main goal was to create and produce a
of sewing required and the kind of model. Members
by women who organized themselves in their rural
others. The hand-made products resulting from these
collection of fashion accessories using the leftovers
are also given advice about fashion trends for the se-
communities, they produce different collections that
working partnerships were sold successfully at the
from the production of decorations made for export.
lection of colours. The idea is to consolidate the idea in
are valued increasingly by the market.
5th National Family Agriculture Fair held in November
There are varying forms of solidarity economy.
The increase in clean rubbish (wool, silk, cotton
among others) was approximately 60m3 that repre-
the federal district and start looking for clients abroad.
Another example of the economic solidarity
Natural fiber from Brazilian plants such as the
In 2008 the Program entered into a new phase
2008 in Rio de Janeiro. The trade press highlighted
“buriti” and “tururi” palms, coconut and straw from the
the work of the communities involved in the project
sented a large amount of tied up capital. Sixteen new
that has come to the attention of the world is the So-
“babaçu” palm, lianas, fish leather, fibrous jute leaves,
as well as the value of their products for the fashion
products were made using the leftover materials. This
cial Youth Consortia (CSJ) which trains young people
seeds, flowers, leaves, sisal, wood chips, PET bottles,
sector.
reduced the impact on the environment whilst the
between 16 to 24 years old from socially deprived
latex, sugar-cane pulp, organic cotton, wool, horse
electricity consumption was practically reduced to
backgrounds and prepares them for the jobs market. In
mane and precious stones are the raw materials used.
Ethic — the ethical products fair to be held near Paris.
zero. No machines were used. The artisans received
working partnerships with organizations all over the
Some of these materials that are often thrown away
Besides that the needlepoint workers of Paraíba will
their materials cost free leading to income creation
country they are offered lessons in digital inclusion,
as worthless, have gained a new lease of life being
be present at the Winter-2009 collection of the stylist
and profits for the cooperative.
human values, health, ethics, citizenship and envi-
turned into all kinds of products.
Isabela Capeto (Rio de Janeiro) to be presented at the
The Technological Development Support Centre
One of the trainings offered by the Labor Union
The participants in the program regularly par-
ronmental issues. During a second stage the students
The aim of the program is to resurrect old
In 2009 the Program will take part in the SO-
São Paulo Fashion Week.
(CDT) of the University of Brasília (UnB) also invests
take part in vocational courses. During this part of
manual working methods (many of them about to
in such associations. Ten of them produce garments
their training they receive financial support.
disappear), seeing them as part of Brazil’s rich and
culture and coordinated by the Income Generating and
and handicrafts sold at the shop “Bem Me Quero” in a
The CSJ is one of the actions set up by the First
Implemented by the Secretary of Family Agri-
varied culture. It also to inform and retrain the partici-
Value Adding Department of the Ministry it has im-
mall in Brasília, established in October 2007. “Bem Me
Job Program of the Labour Ministry. In the State of Rio
pating artisans. In the workshops held in the 12 States
portant working partners such as the SEBRAE — Micro
Quero” was the first shop in the Capital based on the
de Janeiro the program has been developed in partner-
new handling techniques are demonstrated: some
and Small Business Service and the State Bank “Caixa
principles of the economic solidarity. The products are
ship with Communitarian Action of Brazil (ACB). The
of the examples are sewing and cutting, variations
Econômica Federal” and social and union movements.
made by women aged 35 to 70 in eight administra-
fashion division of the ACB has been in existence for
in threading and dying; tanning fish and polishing
tive regions: Recanto das Emas (Agma Association of
two years and employs poor young people from the
techniques.
Needlepoint Workers), Varjão (Casa de Retalho, arti-
region. In 2005 the group took part in the Fashion
42
43
hours worked to the possibility of joint management
The items in the collections launched by the Tal-
2. Fashion and Culture: Technology and Academy
Starting in the 70s the market became more
dynamic and demanding, so Etiqt set up the Textile
(Rio de Janeiro)
Operations Engineering Course, together with five
SENAC-Rio has a department dedicated to Fashion.
specialized courses for the textile technician and
Even though it is not a part of the SENAC-Rio College,
technical support, textile information, and applied re-
and has no higher level Fashion studies, the Fash-
search activities. The excellence of these courses and
ion Technology Centre has modern facilities and is
2.1. From Technical Education to the Higher Level Fashion Education Boom in the 90s
services were gained rapidly recognized and in Janu-
integrated into the community. The centre’s business
Fashion education in Brazil began almost 60
years ago, in 1949, when the first group of
students attended the technical course in
Textile Manufacture at the recently inaugurated
Technical School for the Textile and Chemical
Industries (Etiqt), in the State of Guanabara
(later merged with Rio de Janeiro). The School’s
lecturers had been educated at American or
English textile schools that at the time had
the most update machinery. In a short time
Etiqt established itself as the most important
professional school for the Brazilian textile
industry.
ary 1980 Textile Operations Engineering Course, was
activities begin with a detailed survey of daily re-
altered into the Technology Centre for the Chemical
quirements and detected needs, followed by proposals
and Textile Industries (Cetiqt), an institution whose
to find solutions and tools to improve the image of its
quality is recognized internationally.
students in the workplace and beyond.
Until 1988 there were only technical courses
The lectures and special events offer the
to choose from such as fashion designer, model, and
student opportunities to develop aesthetic capabili-
printer, tailor or seamstress.
ties in line with national and international trends.
Consultancy possibilities and training sessions include
2.2. SENAI-CETIQT: Education Label
Style and Image for executives, including clothing,
(Rio de Janeiro)
uniforms (if necessary), make-up, social and profes-
Considered the best in the State of Rio de Janeiro,
sional etiquette.
Students can also take a middle level technical
the Senai-Cetiqt’s great strength is the integration
of future professionals into the world of work; the
course: Styling Technician and Fashion Coordinator.
school simulates a business environment and provides
The course takes 864 lecture hours (12 months) and
a vision of the real world. Senai-Cetiqt is proud of the
consists of five modules that lead to the following
industry’s participation in the higher level courses,
technical qualifications: Fashion Draughtsman, Collec-
which represents a milestone for the SENAI System
tion Development and Creation and Fashion Coordina-
and Brazilian education.
tor. After concluding their study the students receive
The institution, a pioneer in the S System, was
the first to launch higher level courses with the Textile
a Diploma in Styling and Fashion Coordination and are
ready to enter the job market.
At the SENAC-Rio Fashion Centre there are
Engineering Course in 1997. In 2001 it started the
Higher Level Course in Fashion Design, the first in the
also free courses for working professionals; They are:
country. the best and most sought after courses are
Fashion Design, T-shirt Design, Research Applied to
the post-graduate courses, an MBA in partnership
Fashion, Fashion Drawing Techniques, Fashion Pro-
with the Fundação Getúlio Vargas (FGV), courses of
ducer, Costume Jewellery Manufacture, Cloth Handbag
the Design Institute and technical courses.
Manufacture, Customizing and Recycling Garments,
Costume Jewellery Design, Cloth Handbag Design,
Molds and Sewing, Fashion Buyer, Price Formation for
Fashion, Fashion Business Management, Wardrobe
Creation for Film and Theatre and Technical Fashion
Files.
44
45
Technical and Formal Fashion Education in Brazil.
Historical Context
2.3. SENAC-Rio: Middle Level Technical
2.4. Academic Fashion Education in Private
all were in the south and southeast, offering 1.367
2.5. Private Fashion Education in Brazil in the 21st
Almeida and Senai-Cetiqt), has been substituted by
Brazilian Institutions Chronology1*
places and approximately 23 courses. Since the middle
century2*
Fashion Design and Fashion Business Management
Fashion as a graduation level study in Brazil is still
of the year 2000 on the recommendation of the MEC,
In this first decade of the 21st century Brazil is seeing
courses — the stars of the moment. Among the most
very recent and is still restricted to private institu-
fashion courses are allowed to substitute the term
a boom in post-graduate fashion studies and MBAs in
promising courses in Rio are the “UniverCidade” and
tions. The Federal Universities, though very tradi-
Industrial Design for the word Design in the name of
Fashion Business Management, as well as extension,
PUC (Catholic University of Rio de Janeiro), with a
tional and highly regarded in Brazil, seem not to be
the course, Today there are more than 60 higher level
specialization and short courses in fashion (a success-
tradition of Industrial Design. “UniverCidade” as well
interested in this industry, at least for while. State
educational institutions that offer a basic fashion
ful format in the large capitals).
as PUC have promoted working partnerships between
and federal institutions throughout the country have
program with different approach and content. The
already given in to market pressure to provide free
majority of school are still private.
The 90s saw a boom in fashion courses in Brazil,
School and Business. Among their lecturers are some
designers only. Academic education, research and
of the most experienced and prestigious professionals
disinterest is the Federal University of Minas Gerais
especially during the period 1995 to 1999. In this
increasing specialization of Brazilian fashion students
in design and fashion, in Rio. For the past three years
(UFMG). In 1986 this institution pioneered fashion
period the number of students in the State of Rio de
facing growing globalization, are forcing the sector
the “UniverCidade” has offered extension courses in
education. It started to give extension courses. But
Janeiro grew from 77 in 1995 to 300 in 1999. In São
to rethink its attitude, and now fashion is taken as a
Fashion such as Fashion Forecasting, and for more
it was only 22 years later that it announced its first
Paulo the number grew from 958 to 1.318; in Ceará
serious issue and very profitable business matter as
than five years have been offering MBAs in Fashion
higher level Fashion Design course. It now seems that
from 41 to 158 and in Paraná and Santa Catarina from
well. Brazilian design, designers, and fashion creators
Business Management in partnership with the “Azov
in 2009 the university will be included in the entrance
nil to 212 in the same period.
as well as the Brazilian life-style are increasingly
Consultancy and Education.” Besides this, it has work-
appreciated abroad, creating strong labels as well as a
ing partnerships with companies such as Nokia: one of
good image for the national fashion.
the most important companies worldwide that for the
examination procedures offering 40 places for evening
Prior to the 90s rich Brazilian students who
study. Students will receive a bachelor’s degree after 4
spoke a foreign language and were interested in fash-
years of study.
ion would study abroad, especially in the United States
The private universities, instead, are the ones
that are the most reliable, especially in Rio and São
and in Europe (especially France, England and Italy).
At present the private educational institutions
Although the courses have grown with an
last two years, has been carrying out an inner labora-
incredible speed the majority still face a common prob-
tory developing special projects with the UniverCi-
lem: the small number of qualified professionals in
dade school’s design’s students.
Paulo. Brazilian fashion courses are mostly concen-
have diversified their fashion courses and now the
relation to the large number of courses being offered.
trated in the south-eastern and southern regions
big trend is Fashion Design or Design with Fashion
Very few have doctorates or master degrees, or spe-
of the country, but fashion courses are increasingly
specialization. These, studies involve subjects linked
cific academic education in fashion or design, which
reaching various regions of the country.
to marketing and management, among others. On
is a MEC (Ministério da Educação e Cultura / Ministry
2.6. Fundação Getúlio Vargas / Getúlio Vargas
average they take three to four years to complete,
of Education and Culture) requirement for higher level
Foundation (FGV — Rio de Janeiro)
1988, the “Santa Marcelina” in São Paulo. Only two
the higher level Brazilian studies in this industry
fashion courses. Regarding Master’s degree in Fashion
FGV, one of the most prestigious Business Schools
years later the “Anhembi Morumbi” University fol-
stimulate academic research and produce profession-
there is only one in Brazil, the Masters in Fashion,
in Brazil, recently launched (2009) in the city of Rio
lowed the trend and started its own higher level
als qualified to work as stylists, modellers, fashion
Culture and Art from the SENAC University Centre, in
de Janeiro the course Fashion Business: O Negócio da
Fashion course. It is only from the mid 90s that a real
coordinators and marketing specialists.
São Paulo. A doctorate program in fashion is still non-
Moda (Fashion Business: The Business of Fashion).
existent in Brazil.
The institution’s aim — which has graduation and
The first fashion college in Brazil opened in
demand emerged for higher level fashion education.
From then on the industry became more professional
Technology and the Academy, Theory and Practice,
changing from merely teaching fashion for future
In 2008 some of the most important Brazil-
PUC also offers specialized courses in research
and fashion such as Design Trends Forecasts.
post- graduation courses such as MBAs and Master’s
and has supported a large increase in the number of
ian higher level fashion courses were in Rio and São
degree in Business and Economics — is to promote the
graduate and specialized courses.
Paulo. In São Paulo, but besides the courses already
higher qualification of its students in the Business
In 1999, according to the Ministry of Education
mentioned, there are dozens of reputable courses
field. Fundação Getúlio Vargas counts with some of
and Culture (MEC), 11 years after the introduction of
all over the country, especially in the south region.
the most qualified board of professors, many of whom
the first course at Santa Marcelina, there were already
In Rio de Janeiro, the Styling course boom of the 80s
come from big companies and private banks. The
14 colleges offering a bachelor degree in Fashion (de-
and 90s (which are still being offered by the colleges/
Foundation also has international exchange programs
sign and technology), Styling and Modelling. Almost
faculdades Cândido Mendes, Estácio de Sá, Veiga de
with some of the best Universities and Schools in the
1. * See complete list in the appendixes.
2. * See complete list in the appendixes.
US and Europe.
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47
higher level courses. The exception to the rule of
Fashion education in universities is gradually
2.7. Fashion Courses at “Anhembi Morumbi”
2.8.1. Zuzu Angel Institute (Rio de Janeiro)
offer short courses in store management for managers
2.9. Schools and Institutes as Alternatives to
and SENAC-SP (São Paulo)
The Zuzu Angel Fashion Institute in Rio de Janeiro
and supervisors, fashion retail buying and garment
Professionalize in São Paulo
In July 1999 less than ten years after launching its’
(IZA) is a non-profit institution founded in October
manufacturing management. The proposal is to train
Some of the most important Brazilian fashion educa-
Fashion Studies course the “Anhembi-Morumbi”
1993 by the journalist Hildegard Angel, daughter of
professionals to immediately enter the job market.
tion institutes are in São Paulo. The Centro Universi-
University (UAM) started a post-graduate program
Zuzu Angel, a Brazilian stylist who made history in
in Fashion Business, lasting three months, created
the 60s and after whom the institute was named. Dur-
2.8.4. P/A Profashional Pesquisa e Consultoria
acknowledged courses, among them the only Fashion
for students and persons interested in knowing and
ing 12 years the Zuzu Angel Institute worked together
de Moda / Fashion Research and Consultancy
Masters program in Latin America — Master in Fashion,
identifying contemporary phenomena and trends, and
with the “Veiga de Almeida” University (UVA). From
(Rio de Janeiro)
Culture and Arts; a two years course with some of the
to do research via the Internet. Due to the experi-
2006 on, the IZA started new partnership with Uni-
Created in 2003 P/A Profashional Pesquisa e Consulto-
best professors in Arts and Culture of São Paulo.
ment’s success UAM decided to create a post-graduate
versidade Estácio de Sá (Rio de Janeiro)
ria works making research and lectures for companies,
tário Senac (SENAC University Centre) offers dozens of
educational institutions, professionals and students
Marcelina” and “Anhembi-Morumbi” colleges. And in São
Universe. A set of lectures were to be offered online,
industry’s largest archives that contains drawings
of the fashion sector, promoting training sessions,
Paulo one can also find the other important non-univer-
being the first of its kind in Fashion, not only in Brazil
etc. of the most important national and international
seminars, personalized courses, courses in academic
sity courses which have been set up by professionals
but in the world. After 364 hours of virtual study the
stylists; it has international cooperation agreements
research, consultancy to develop collections and also
working in the field, such as those offered by the Profes-
student receives a specialist certificate. Recognized
for student exchanges with French institutions such
organize cultural journeys abroad with a fashion
sional Fashion School — (EMP) (www.escolademoda.
because of its focus on marketing and the business
as: École Supérieure de Mode (Esmod) and Université
focus. It counts with a wide book and fashion movies
com.br), the ProFashion School (www.promoda.com.
world “Anhembi Morumbi” was a pioneer in this trend
de La Mode in Lyon.
section where is possible for students and profession-
br) and the Sigbol Fashion School (www.sigbol.com.br).
als to make researches and projects.
Also worth mentioning is the Brazilian Fashion Institute
The Zuzu Angel Institute has one of fashion
that has taken over Fashion education in this second
half of the 2000 decade.
2.8.2. Inbracultmode — Instituto Brasileiro de
(IBModa) and the “Istituto Europeo di Design” — IED.
Cultura, Moda e Design / Culture Fashion and Design
2.8.5. Instituto Rio Moda
tive course to meet the growing need of the fashion
Institute
Inaugurated in 2008 the Rio Fashion Institute (IRM) is
Design, Fashion, Visual Arts and Communication. With
business. The course was called “Fashion Desires and
The Inbracultmode mission is to promote the work
a place open to fashion talent, whose purpose is to de-
division in Milan, Turin, Rome, Venice, Madrid, Barcelona
Consumption Research” with its objective to educate
of creative designers, opening access to the market
velop professional capabilities and thereby contribute
and São Paulo, the institute has graduated more than
professionals about fashion products that meet the
to run new business, stimulating, encouraging and
to the evolution of the Brazilian fashion industry. It
60 thousand students since its creation in Italy in 1966.
consumer’s expectations and which adhere to their
disseminating fashion, design and handwork and arts
intends to fill in those areas where educated qualified
Among the courses offered are: Fashion Marketing and
values, as well as being able to anticipate their future
and crafts work adding each Brazilian region’s unique
labour is still lacking. There are no rigid requirements
the short extension courses: Sketching, Fashion Stylist,
wishes. The program was aimed at people who wish
creative values. This will consolidate Brazilian design
to take part in one of its 10 courses (all of them of
Cool hunting, Moulage, Footwear Design, Shoes, Strate-
to work in teams that are capable of foreseeing new
identity and invigorate the domestic Creative Econo-
short duration and do not issue certificates) related to
gic Marketing, Jewellery Design, Jewellery — Basics.
forms of integration, among them sounds and images,
my, as well as offer access to knowledge and education
the fashion production processes. 30 courses are to
tastes, detecting consumer behaviour, anticipating
through Culture, Fashion and Design.
take place in 2009.
In 2007 SENAC-São Paulo launched an innova-
trends and translating them into objects.
The IED is active in education and research in
The Brazilian Fashion Institute states that it is
the first and only Brazilian institute dedicated exclusively to the fashion business, and works on three
2.8.3. Azov Consultancy and Education
fronts: research, consultancy and education. The Brazil-
2.8. Fashion Institutes in Rio de Janeiro
(Rio de Janeiro)
ian Fashion Institute offers courses in five categories:
In Rio & São Paulo there are institutes and offices that
Azov was created in 1999 by the businessman Luiz
workshops, fashion updating programs, extension,
carry-out fashion research and consultancy. They
Antonio Secco, a man with a lot of retail experience.
MBA and long distance learning. Its director is the high-
endorse free or specialization courses, meetings,
Azov is focused on the consumption goods market but
ly awarded Brazilian stylist Walter Rodrigues who leads
lectures, events and even awards for sector profes-
also works in education.
a team of lecturers consisting of professionals with
sionals. Now that fashion fever having taken over the
country they will no doubt to multiply.
Since 2002 Azov has a working partnership
more than 15 years working and academic experience.
with the “UniverCidade” that offers post-graduate
The courses IBM offers are diverse and not just limited
courses for the retail and services industries as well
to São Paulo. It also has branches in Florianópolis, Porto
as fashion management. Starting in 2008 it began to
Alegre, Salvador, Goiânia, Blumenau and Criciúma.
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49
and fashion extension course online, the Fashion
Also noted for fashion education are the “Santa
The interior of the south-eastern Region is not that
diversified. Relevant courses offered outside the State
Capitals are only found at the University Centre of Rio
Preto (in São José do Rio Preto — SP) and the “Solange
3. Brazilian Fashion
and Cultural Exchanges
Suggestions for Events —
Brazil & The Netherlands
tury Brazil was still a Portuguese colony, very frag-
ties, together with the projects and initiatives taken
mented. In this period, the northeast, more specifically
by both sectors Brazilian artisans have benefited and
Pernambuco, was dominated by Dutch culture. The
the goods they make have been sold through trade
Dutch supremacy in the region lasted for 30 years. The
fairs in Brazil and abroad.
long Dutch presence in Pernambuco produced a new
The Fashion Weeks in the country (especially
Machado” Fashion School — EMSM (in Uberlândia — MG).
type of civilization, very different from that produced
It is something rather new for Brazil to have fashion
Fashion Rio, São Paulo Fashion Week and Claro Rio
tion is not only found in the State capitals. In Rio
as an organized, commercial activity with a particular
Summer) are more and more valued by the inter-
Grande do Sul State there are good schools in the
identity. As surveys demonstrate, Brazilian fashion
national fashion agenda. The Brazilian lifestyle is
European noble and Governor-General of Brazil. Dur-
whole state: University of Caxias do Sul; University of
has gone through various phases and influences.
presently a valuable asset on the external and internal
ing, those three decades of the 17th century brought
In the southern region, higher fashion educa-
by Portugal in Brazil.
Thanks to Johan Mauritz van Nassau-Siegen, a
markets and the world’s media is aware of the fact:
forth a new kind of politics, culture and religious
University of Santa Maria and the University Centre
today call fashion was much more linked with the
fashion editors, publishers, reporters. Brazil attracts
experience in a part of Brazil, Four centuries later, in
Feevale. The same goes for Santa Catarina: Higher
industrial and commercial sectors of the country, since
the attention of big label buyers, stylists and trend
2004 the National History Museum in Rio de Janeiro,
Learning Centre of Jaraguá do Sul, Regional Univer-
trends and designs all came from the Northern Hemi-
researchers.
held the exhibition “The Dutch Presence in Brazil —
sity Foundation of Blumenau, Furb; University of the
sphere in general.
Passo Fundo; Federal University of Pelotas; Federal
Valley of Itajaí, Univali; University Centre of Brusque,
Since it first appeared in the country, what we
Seminars, courses, and workshops on a techni-
Until the 90s, because of import barriers, most
memory and images” to celebrate the 400th anniver-
cal and academic level can be found all over the entire
sary of Johan Mauritz’s birth. The exhibition showed
Unifebe; University of Joinville, Univille; University
of the fashion industry in Brazil used to reproduce
country, promoting valuable exchange of information
artworks and paintings which referred to the period
Centre Leonardo Da Vinci, Uniasselvi.
what was fashionable abroad: from clothing to life-
and knowledge between businessmen, profession-
of “Dutch Brazil”, a seminar took place and a book was
published.
style. In the 90s, with the opening of the market to
als, students and parties interested in fashion. Noted
teachers to give lato sensu courses in the field have
imports, the Brazilian fashion industry was faced with
names on the international and national scene take
been increasing. Two of them began during the second
a unique situation, competition. To win over the con-
more and more in this exchange.
quarter of 1997. The first was at the Higher Learning
sumer who from then on became exposed to famous
Centre of Jaraguá do Sul with a working agreement
international products, known for their quality and
become stages for big fashion shows and exhibitions
ble for the first artistic and scientific mission in Brazil.
with the Federal University of Santa Catarina. The
tradition, Brazil’s fashion industry and commerce were
such as the 100 Years of Fashion at the “Oca” in São
Brazil is indebted to the Dutch artists and scientists for
second in Passo Fundo, offered by the Arts and Com-
forced to take a great leap in quality and creativity.
Paulo, the “Zuzu Angel” show at the National History
the only record of the fauna, flora and customs of the
Museum and Real Women at the Cultural Centre “Casa
Brazilian natives in the 17th century.
The training of professionals and preparing
munications Faculty of the University of Passo Fundo,
The market started to demand more qualified
Brazilian Museums and Cultural Centres have
Before then no one in Brazil had heard very
much about the Netherlands — a country which was
part of Brazil during the 17th century and is responsi-
professionals, better technicians, products of a better
France, Brazil” both in Rio de Janeiro. National and mul-
quality and different design. From these demands
tinational companies attempt to sponsor or support
21st century the Internet connects the world. Brazil
schools in the large cities. At the beginning of the 90s
came the need for better technical education and later
fashion events because the events are a guaranteed
is (literally) connected to the whole world; but the
with a view to filling this lack of schools an experi-
on higher fashion education, as well as an exchange of
investment.
cultural and commercial relations with other European
mental initiative set in motion, called the Open Univer-
specific fashion information.
supported by the Technician in Textile Manufacturing.
In the north-eastern region there are only
sity, Fashion, Culture and Communication, editorial coMapping Brazil Project \ Fashion
Through the growth of production in these communi-
In this third and last part of the mapping, from
From the year 2000 onwards, because of a
Now, nearly at the end of the first decade of the
countries such as Portugal, France, England, Italy,
analysis of the information contained in the previous
Spain and the United States are clear and historically
ordinator Wânia Cysne de Medeiros Dummar and Laïs
number of reasons, the industry in Brazil acquired
chapters, some suggestions about supplementary
plain. These are countries with which Brazil has a long
Pearson as course coordinator. The project allowed for
national importance, and became one of the highest
ideas on the closeness of the Netherlands with Brazil
history of cultural cooperation and they frequently
long-distance learning via weekly chapters published
growth areas of the economy. The sectors’ growth
in the fashion area will be pointed out; taking into
organize events to demonstrate their respective
in the newspaper “O Povo” of Fortaleza (Ceará).
was notable and was driven by investments in textile
consideration the cultural potential of the sector. It
cultures.
technology, academic research, etc. The country is
is important to understand that from this initiative
also noted for its preoccupation, by private as well
various other activities can become possible, including
lar from Brazil: a development that has been observed
as governmental companies, with the inclusion and
commercial ones. In future complementary investiga-
since the beginning of the 21st century. The country,
education of poor but productive communities, who
tive surveys should be carried out next ones like this
together with Russia, India and China is considered
could find sustainable work in the fashion industry.
mapping that is focused on culture. In the 17th cen-
to be one of the greatest economic growth potentials.
50
In 2010 the world expects something spectacu-
51
2.10. Higher Education outside São Paulo
Because of BRIC, several countries have been carrying
take place in 2010 in the cities of Recife / Rio de
However before taking any action the Netherlands and its fashion sector must be made better
Janeiro / São Paulo and among other issues bring
even established names) in the Brazilian fashion
of the national economy considering its importance to
known to Brazilians while Brazil and its fashion must
to the cities some of the most representative
weeks, (Fashion Rio, São Paulo Fashion Week or
the global economy. On the other hand, the interest of
be made better known to the Dutch public. There are
names on the present fashion and cultural scene
even Claro Rio Summer) and the participation of
the Brazilian government and the population in other
infinite possibilities. As a starting point I suggest
in the Netherlands. One could deal with issues of
Brazilian stylists in the relevant fashion weeks
countries is considerably growing.
that during 2009 exploratory trips be made involving
the historical importance between Brazil and the
and events in Holland. Remark: Brazilian Seasons
groups of businessmen, professionals and fashion spe-
Netherlands, fashion and how one dressed in the
of the year are the opposite of those in the
events that could intensify cultural relations between
cialists, followed by a seminar with the participation
Netherlands and Brazil in the 17th century, the
Northern Hemisphere.
Brazil and the Netherlands in such areas as fashion.
of big names in Brazilian and Dutch fashion, cultural
contemporary fashion scene in both countries,
and commercial field. Among the suggestions are also
street wear in the main Dutch cities, etc.
It is therefore necessary to think about possible
Taking the cities of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo
´´ 2010 Working partnerships to make fashion
as samples, Brazil’s knowledge of Dutch fashion is
an exhibition, workshops with the participation of
extremely limited. It is restricted to information on
stylists; exchanges between educational institutions
C&A (which very few people know is Dutch) and some
and finally a bilateral fashion contest. Here follows a
Fashionable”. Bringing to Brazil a retrospective
“Holland by...” The launch of these products would
better informed people know of the existence of Vik-
program of suggested activities and events:
show of Viktor & Rolf, which has already been held
have ample media coverage from both countries.
products with noted Brazilian companies, to be
tor & Rolf — the famous international exponents of
contemporary Dutch fashion. There is a certain curios-
´´ 2010 Exhibit “Viktor & Rolf. Holland is
sold with the label: “Holland made in Brazil”, or
in Paris and London. The exhibition could be held
´´ 2009 “Fashion Recognition Trips” for both
in an important museum or cultural centre of Rio
´´ 2010 Documentary (produced in the Netherlands
ity about the country, especially as seen on postcards;
countries.They would be the new “Dutch
a country with the windmills, tulip fields, wooden
Missions” to Brazil and the “Brazilian Mission” to
shoes, the artworks of Van Gogh and Rembrandt.
the Netherlands, in the same line as the Inward
These components were recently seen in a TV soap
Fashion Mission to England (which I participated
opera “Pages of Life”, in which some of the characters
in) in the 2000s; a group of professionals
was leaving, working and studying art in the Nether-
representative of the various sectors of Brazilian
lands. The soap opera was produced by TV Globo, the
fashion and which brought to Brazil, British
business people or lecturers from Dutch and
most influential TV network in Brazil.
professionals involved in the various fashion
Brazilian higher education colleges that offer
working in the fashion industry, professionals and
sectors in the UK. Programs especially set-up
specific courses in fashion design, fashion or
students.
possible to see the exchange between countries. This
for both groups (participants must be selected
something similar.
is very much appreciated by the population in the
carefully) taking into consideration the specific
main Brazilian cities. In the series’ the events con-
interests of fashion and cultural exchange.
centrate on design and fashion, both of them appeal
Visits to museums; fashion and design colleges
Brazil too” — involving students of the main fashion
to Brazilian youth. Other aspects of Dutch life that
(previously formatted by the respective mappers,
schools (both countries) who will take part in the
interest Brazilian adolescents are technology, ecology,
responsible for the survey of the subject);
contest. The challenge for the students will be to
sustainable growth, environment and well-being.
participation in fashion seminars and events (such
interpret the principal national icons (ignoring the
as the fashion weeks, graduation fashion shows
clichés), translated into contemporary and creative
be the Year of France in Brazil. This being so, it seems
of the fashion schools, exhibitions) etc. It would
clothes, material prints, jewellery, accessories, etc.
inadvisable to organize large events this year in Brazil
be interesting if each member of the group write
A panel of judges formed by from professionals
evolving The Netherlands. It should be more advised
a brief report of his impressions, strong and weak
from various disciplines would judge the contest.
to take 2009 as an opportunity to prepare events that
points etc, of the trip.
The works submitted could form part of an
Another important point: the year 2009 will
de Janeiro or São Paulo.
Designers about the contemporary scenario
´´ 2010 Commemorative Catalogue of the Exhibition
mercial projects and exchange).
“Viktor & Rolf. Holland is Fashionable”.
of Dutch fashion. The film would be shown as
part of the seminar “Holland is Fashionable” or
“Fashionable Netherlands”
´´ 2010 Workshops — Exchange between professional
´´ 2010 Encouraging the exchange of businessmen
´´ 2010 / 2011 — Meeting in Amsterdam to evaluate
´´ 2010 Contest “The Netherlands is Fashionable,
are to take place in 2010, which could perhaps, be the
Dutch Year in Brazil (in terms of cultural and also com-
or Brazil) presented by some Brazilian Fashion
the results of The Netherlands & Brazil Cultural
Project.
It is exactly via such cultural things, that it is
´´ 2010 Participation of Dutch stylists (new talent or
extensive surveys on Brazil, dealing with those parts
exhibition or catalogue to be produced as part
´´ 2010 Seminar “The Netherlands (Holland)
of the project “The Netherlands is Fashionable,
is Fashionable” showing the contemporary
Brazil too”. Prizes could bee scholarships for short
panorama of Dutch fashion. The seminar could
courses, trips with a cultural program etc.
52
53
3.1. Important Final Considerations
Fundação Getúlio Vargas (Getúlio Vargas Foundation)
Address: Campus Botafogo: Praia de Botafogo 190 / 10°
formed and demanding. Badly organized events with
sideration what kind of fashion is really appreciated in
little content are often criticized by the specialized
Brazilian cultural and academic environments. These
press. Some of the large credible circulation newspa-
are the types of successful events that happen in the
pers that have given a lot of space to fashion (some
principal cities of the country. Exhibitions, documen-
even have specific fashion sections) are: “O Globo”
Institutions offering Extension, Graduation,
Telephone: Botafogo + 55 (21) 2559 5995
taries, shows, seminars and workshops are part of
and “Valor Econômico” — Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo;
Post-Graduation and MBA courses
Barra da Tijuca +55 (21) 3799 4812
Brazilian culture and are efficient and didactic means
“Folha de São Paulo and “O Estado de São Paulo” — São
in Fashion or Fashion Design
e-Mail: [email protected]
to transmit information.
Paulo. In Rio, some other popular newspapers such
(Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo, Belo Horizonte, Porto Alegre,
Florianópolis, Salvador)*
website: www.fgv.br/fgvempresarial
All the events that have been recommended
sl.1023 - Botafogo
fashion columns written by fashion journalists and
country. The approval of the various official authori-
specialists.
Appendix 1
Campus Barra: Av. das Américas 3693 Bl. II 2° - Parque das
Rosas — Barra da Tijuca
as “Jornal do Brasil”, “O Dia” and “Extra” have weekly
must be in conformity with the cultural policies of the
ties is needed. Many events in Brazil end up compro-
Course: Fashion Business: The Business of Fashion
1. Rio de Janeiro
Certificate/Diploma: Especialization in Fashion Business
Date Established: 09/05/2009
Even though Brazil has no fashion museums
mised because of the slowness and bureaucracy of the
such as those in the Northern Hemisphere, many of
UniverCidade & UniverCidade/AZOV
Duration Study: 180h
companies, organizations and institutions involved.
them have permanent collections that are shown on
(former Universidade da Cidade)
General Coordinator: Adriana Vianna Dias
That is why it is important whatever undertaken it
special occasions and can be visited by appointment.
Address: Av. Epitácio Pessoa, 1.664 — Ipanema — Rio de
Coordinator Fashion Business: Paula Acioli
should be done with enough time in hand to avoid
Many of them, as well as the cultural centers especial-
Janeiro — RJ
mishaps. The project’s members, such as sponsors,
ly in Rio — São Paulo have shown interest in fashion
Telephone: + 55 (21) 2536-5000
Escola de Moda Cândido Mendes
supporters, the Dutch companies already known in
exhibitions, such as Museu Nacional de Belas Artes
e-mail: [email protected]; joaolutz@
(Candido Mendes University)
Brazil, such as C&A, — popular in Brazil and involved in
(National Arts Museum); Museu Histórico Nacional
univercidade.br
Address: Rua Joana Angélica, 63 - Ipanema — RJ
fashion, and KLM that could act as the official carrier
(the National History Museum); “Casa França-Brasil”
website: http://www.univercidade.edu
Telephone: + 55 (21) 2267-7671/ 0800-2825353
for the project “Holland is Fashionable” should all be
and Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (the Cultural Cen-
visible. In Brazil large public and private companies
ter of the Banco do Brazil); Centro Cultural dos Correios
Course: Fashion Design (still under MEC evaluation)
alternex.com.br
such as telecoms, textiles, garments, entertainment,
(The Cultural Center of the Post) or Centro Cultural da
Certificate/Diploma: Technology
Website: http://www.ucam.edu.br/institucional/detalhe_
airlines, private banks and groups amongst others
Caixa (Caixa Cultural Center) all in Rio Janeiro and also
Date Established: to be released
estrutura.asp?id=22
have shown great interest in sponsoring fashion
the Biennale Foundation; the Modern Art Museum
Duration Study: 5 Semesters
events.
and the FAAP (Fundação Armando Alvares Penteado)
Director: João Lutz
Course: Fashion Design
in São Paulo. All have held arts, design or fashion
Coordinator: Paula Acioli (for Fashion Qualification)
Certificate/Diploma: Specific — Styling
Should some of the events be realized, another
E-mail:[email protected]; escmoda@
point that should be mentioned is that in Brazil, espe-
exhibitions during the last couple of years. The inter-
cially the fashion capitals such as Rio and São Paulo,
est in bringing foreign exhibitions, as well as visiting
Course: UniverCidade /AZOV MBA Fashion Business &
Duration Study: 2.500 hours
the press, press agents, television (news programs
exhibitions and fashion museums abroad is also great.
Management
Coordinators: Tatiana Messer Rybalowski (Ipanema Unit),
and specifically fashion) and the media in general
Today museums and cultural centers are very popular
Adress: Av. Epitácio Pessoa, 1.664 — Ipanema — Rio de
Lilyan Guimaraes Berlin (Niteroi Unit) and Luiz Maurício de
have a fundamental role to play in fashion events and
in the main cities of Brazil and are the ideal venues to
Janeiro - RJ
Oliveira Monteiro (Campos Unit).
happenings. Specialized press coverage is indispens-
organize this kind of fashion event.
Telephone: + 55 (21) 2513 5860
able for the success of large events. It is via specific
It is important that dates and places for events
4. Appendixes
The Brazilian press is generally very well in-
The suggested events were planned taking into con-
e-mail: [email protected]
articles, fashion editorials and publicity that events
be carefully studied, taking into consideration the
website: www.azov.com.br
reach the attention of the public in the principal cities
fashion events calendar and holidays in Brazil. Brazil-
Certificate/Diploma: MBA in Fashion Business Management
of Brazil.
ian academic year is the opposite of that in Europe.
Date Established: 2003
Duration Studies: 360h
General Coordinator: Luiz Antonio Secco
Coordinator: Rosana Pizarro
54
55
SENAI-CETIQT
Universidade Salgado de Oliveira (Universo)
Address: Rua Dr. Manoel Cotrim 195 — Riachuelo — Rio de
Duration Study: 8 Semesters / 3570 hours
Address: Rua Marechal Deodoro, 263 - Centro - Niterói — RJ
Extension courses offered
Janeiro — RJ
Coordinator: Claudia Renata Mont’Alvão Rodrigues
Telephone: + 55 (21) 2138-4999/ (21) 4890
Certificate/Diploma: Extension Course Certificate
Telephone: + 55 (21) 2582-1001/ 1025 - Fax: (21) 2241-
(Coordinator)
E-mail: [email protected]
Duration Study: 16 to 48 hours
0495
Website: http://www.universo.edu.br
Universidade Estácio de Sá (UNESA) /
Website: http://www.cetiqt.senai.br
Instituto Zuzu Angel
Courses: Management; Arts — Wardrobe; Making Cloths;
Address: Av. Ayrton Senna, 2.800 — Barra da Tijuca
Certificate/Diploma: Bachelor
University Fine Arts Centre of São Paulo — FEBASP
Design — Qualification Fashion; Engineering — Industrial
Telephone: + 55 (21) 3410-7400
Address: Rua Dr. Álvaro Alvim 76 — Vila Mariana, São Paulo, SP
Textile Engineering Degree
E-mail: [email protected];[email protected]
Duration Study: 7 Semesters / 2.845 hours
Telephone: + 55 (11) 5576 7300 / Fax: (11) 5549 7566
Website: http://www.estacio.br/_cursos/graduacao/
Date Established: Fashion Design: 01/09/2001
design_moda/default.asp
2. São Paulo
Post-graduate course: Fashion Management
Duration: From 5 to 8 semesters.
Management: Lu Catoira (Coordinator)
Duration Study: 16 months / 420 hours
Degree/Certificate: Bachelor
Coordinator: Rita Quintanilha
Post-graduate: Fashion Design; Textile Printing Design;
Date Established: 2003/01
MBA — International Textile Industries
Duration Study: 3 years
Certificate: Specialist
Universidade Veiga de Almeida (UVA)
Address: Rua Ibituruna 108 — Tijuca - Rio de Janeiro — RJ
Coordinator: Sandra Penkal
Graduate Course: Fashion Design
Telephone: + 55 (21) 2574-8800 / (21) 2568-2165/ (21)
Degree/Certificate: Technologist
2574-8869
University Centre — Metropolitan Colleges (FMU)
Specialization Courses: Textile Finishing; Clothes
Address: Avenida Lins de Vasconcelos, 3406 - Vila Mariana
Manufacture; Spinning; Industrial Knitting, Plane Weaving
Website: http://www.uva.br/cursosdemoda
- São Paulo - SP
Post-graduate courses: Model Agency Management;
4589
Fashion, Arts and Design; Clothes Modeling; Fashion
Various extension courses offered
Business.
Website: http://www.fmu.br
lasting from 15 to 60 hours
Certificate/Diploma: Specialist
Objective: Meeting textile industry training needs.
Duration Study: 16 months
Coordinators: Dayse Marques (Campus Tijuca), Luciana
Course: Fashion
Casali, Adriana Jordan (Technical Coordination) and Pedro
Qualifications: Fashion Creation; Fashion Management
Sayad (Events Coordination)
Certificate: Specialist
Duration Study: 1 year
Telephone: + 55 (11) 3346-6200 / 6223 / Fax: (11) 3209
PUC-RIO
Various extension courses offered
(Pontifícia Universidade Católica do Rio de Janeiro)
Duration Study: 16h
Address: Rua Marques São Vicente 225 — Gávea — Rio de
Coordinators: Celina de Farias and Cecy Kremer Diniz
Technical Course: Carnaval Design
Janeiro — RJ
Gonçalves (Deputy Coordinator).
Certificate/Diploma: Technologist
Coordinator: Romy Tutia
Telephone: + 55 (21) 3527-1595 / 3527-1941 / Fax:
Management: Madson Oliveira
(5521)3527-1589
Coordinator: Ana Cristina Martins Bruno
Website: http://www.belasartes.br
Website: http://www.puc-rio.br
Post-graduate Courses: Styling, Wardrobe and Carnaval
Course: Design
Coordinators: Flávio Bragança (Styling), Madson Oliveira
Qualification: Fashion
(Wardrobe and Carnaval)
Degree: Bachelor
Duration Study: 16 — 17 months
56
57
Centro Universitário SENAC — LAPA
Centro Universitário SENAC — Santo Amaro
Fundação Armando Álvares Penteado (FAAP)
Tecnology College Carlos Drummond de Andrade —
Address: Rua Fáustolo, 1347 — Lapa - São Paulo — SP
Address: Av. Engenheiro Eusébio Stevaux 823
Address: Rua Alagoas 903 - Prédio 01 — São Paulo — SP
CSET Drummond
Telephone: + 55 (11) 3865-4888/ 0800-8832000
Telephone: + 55 (11) 5682 7300 / 5682 7519 / 5682 7493
Telephone: + 55 (11) 3662-7301
Address: Rua Professor Pedreira de Freitas 401/415 — São
Paulo — SP
Website: http://www.faap.br
Telephone: + 55 (11) 2942 1488 / 1495 / Fax: (11) 2942
Website: http://www.sp.senac.br
Master Course: Master in Fashion, Culture and Art
1488
Certificate/Diploma: Master in Fashion, Culture and Art
Course: Design
Qualifications: Styling; Modelling
Duration Study: from 24 to 36 months
Website: http://www.drummond.com.br
Coordinator: Luiz Octávio de Lima Camargo
Extension courses offered: various
Course: Fashion Business Management
Duration Study: 48 hours, 180 hours, 36 hours
Coordinator: Ivan Marcos Caminada Bismara
Coordinators: Jung Eun Ro (Styling Coordinator); Daniela
Nunes Figueira (Modelling); Alexandre Herchcovitch
Free Courses: various
(Artistic Direction)
Certificate/Diploma: Final Certificate
Post Graduate Course: Fashion Management and Design;
Coordinator: not informed / information not available
Fashion and Retail
College Level Fashion Technology: Fashion Styling and
Places that offer the courses: Fashion Education Centre and
Flamingo College (FAFLA)
Coordination
Santo Amaro Campus (Masters)
Duration Study: 360 hours
Address: Rua Catão, 72 — 2º andar do Shopping Lapa —
Follow-up course: Fashion Duration Study: 1674 hours
São Paulo, SP
Remark: the Centro Universitário SENAC SP has the only
Telephone: + 55 (11) 3871 1288
Master in Fashion Course in Brazil. Maintains a working
MBA: Luxury Management; Fashion Business and Strategy
Post-graduate courses: Fashion Image and Styling; Fashion
agreement with the International ESMOD one of the
Website: http://www.faculdadeflamingo.com.br
Business — from Label Conception to Product Development.
oldest and most traditional fashion schools in the world.
ESMOD methodology is applied in the professional courses
Coordinator: Silvio Passarelli
Duration Study: 12 - 18 months
Styling and Modeling, just like in France guaranteeing
Course: Fashion Business Management
Certificate/Diploma: Manager / Technologist
internationally high standards.
Remark: Business MBA in Strategic Fashion Management
is the result of a joint effort of the School of Brazilian Arts
Duration Study: 4 Semesters / 1600 hours Coordinator: not
and the Fashion Institute (working partnership between
informed / information not available
ABIT and The Art Museum of São Paulo) the first national
institution to link the subjects: industry, culture and
Paulista Arts College (FPA)
education; and its mission is to strengthen Brazil’s position
Address: Avenida Brigadeiro Luis Antonio 1224 - São Paulo, SP
in fashion design and export.
Telephone: + 55 (11) 3287-4455 / Fax: (11) 3287-4455
Website: http://www.fpa.art.br
Course: Fashion Sketching / Drawing
Certificate/Diploma: Bachelor / Full Teaching Certificate
Coordinator: Vera Figueiredo (Academic Director)
58
59
Faculdade Santa Marcelina (FASM)
SENAI SP
Universidade Bandeirante De São Paulo (UNIBAN)
Universidade Paulista (UNIP)
Address: Rua Doutor Emílio Ribas, 89 — Perdizes — São
Address: Rua Anhaia, 1321 — Bom Retiro — São Paulo
Address: Rua Maria Cândida 1813 — São Paulo — SP
Address: Av. Paulista, 900 — Cerqueira César —
Paulo — SP
Telephone: + 55 (11) 3361-3787
Telephone: + 55 (11) 2967-9000 / Fax: (11) 2967-9021
São Paulo — SP
Telephone: + 55 (11) 3824-5800 / Fax: (11) 3824-5818
Telephone: + 55 (11) 3170-3700
Website: http://www.sp.senai.br
Website: http://www.uniban.br
Website: http://www.fasm.edu.br
Website: http://www.unip.br
Course: Clothes Manufacture Management; Clothes
Course: Fashion Design and Business
Course: Fashion Drawing
Manufacture
Course: Fashion
Date Established: 2006/1
Duration Study: 4 Years / 4080 hours
Coordinator: Carina Macedo Martini (Coordinator
Communication & Arts Institute)
Management: Cleusa Pires de Andrade and
Post-graduate course: Fashion & Design
Post-graduate courses: Fashion Industry Management;
Fashion Design Management
Universidade De São Paulo (USP)
Orlando Brandão Fonseca (Coordinators)
Address: Rua Arlindo Béttio, 1000 —
College Level Technology: Fashion Management,
Extension Courses: various courses offered
Duration Study: 360 hours; idem
Ermelino Matarazzo — São Paulo — SP
Styling and Design
Coordinator: Marcelo Costa
Telephone: + 55 (11) 3091-1004
Website: http://www.each.usp.br
Certificate/Diploma: Extension Course Certificate
Universidade Anhembi Morumbi (UAM)
Coordinator: Raquel Valente Fulchiron
Address: Avenida Roque Petroni Jr., 630 — Morumbi — São
Coordinators: Iara Yamamoto and Cleusa Pires de Andrade
Paulo — SP
Course: Textile and Clothes Technology
Remarks: FASM’s Fashion Drawing Course was a
Telephone: + 55 (11) 5095-5600/ 0800 015 9020
Certificate/Diploma: Bachelor l
pioneering course in Brazil and today is still considered the
best college level fashion course in the country. In the last
Website: http://www.anhembi.br
20 years the school has produced many known designers
(Coordinators)
Coordinator: Moacyr Martucci Júnior
and the School’s Post-graduate course Fashion & Design is
Course: Fashion Design; Fashion Business
the first specialist course for fashion design in Brazil.
Date Established: 02/01/2007; 12/02/1990
Duration: 3200 hours; 2640 hours
Coordinators: Eloize Navalon and Mario Queiroz
MBA: Brand Management
Duration Study: 3 Semesters / 400h
Management: Márcia Auriani (Coordinator)
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61
Centro Universitário UNA
FUMEC
Address: Rua da Bahia, 1764 — Bairro Lourdes — Belo
Address: Rua Cobre, 200 — Bairro Cruzeiro — Belo Horizonte
Centro Integrado De Moda (CIMO)
Horizonte — MG
— MG
Centro Universitário Metodista — IPA
Address: R. Bráz Baltazar, 123 — Caiçara — Belo Horizonte —
Telephone: + 55 (31) 3236-2357 / 5308
Telephone: + 55 (31) 3228-3150 / 0800 300 200 / Fax:
Address: Rua Coronel Joaquim Pedro Salgado 80 — Térreo —
MG
(31) 3225-3171
Porto Alegre — RS
Telephone: + 55 (31) 3464-1584
Website: http://www.una.br
Telephone: + 55 (51) 3316-1100 / Fax: (51)3316-1374
Website: http://www.fumec.br
3. Belo Horizonte
Website: http://www.faculdadecimo.com.br
Course: Fashion
4. Porto Alegre
Website: http://www.metodistadosul.edu.br
Course: Design
Course: Fashion Design and Business
Qualification: Fashion Design
Certificate/Diploma: Bachelor l
Duration Study: 6 Semesters / 2.080 hours
Certificate/Diploma: Specific for the profession: Fashion
Designer
Management: Giselda Moreira Garcia (Director)
Coordinator: Renata Abreu Gomes Lunkes
Extension courses offered
Faculdade Estácio de Sá Belo Horizonte (FESBH)
Duration Study: 36 hours, 48 hours and 51 hours,
Address: Avenida Francisco Sales 23 — Floresta- Belo
Coordinator: Caio Alvi, Rodrigo Cezário, Juliana Castro Dias
Horizonte — MG
Post-graduate courses: Fashion Design
Objective: Utilize capacity, specialize and provide tools for
professionals, as well as detect new market trends.
Coordinator: Gabriela Maria Ladeira Ferreira Torres
Post-graduate course: Fashion Retail Management
(Coordenadora)
Coordinator: Carlos Ramiro
Telephone: + 55 (31) 3279 7722 / Fax: (31) 3337 4305
Certificate/Diploma: Specialization in Fashion Design
Centro Universitário De Belo Horizonte (UNI-BH)
Address: Rua Diamantina, 567
Website: http://www.bh.estacio.br
Coordinators: Vanessa Madrona Moreira Salles and Gabriela
UNIRITTER
Maria Ladeira Ferreira Torres
Address: Rua Orfanotrófio 555 — Porto Alegre — RS
Lagoinha — Belo Horizonte — MG
Telephone:
Course: Fashion Design Technology (Technology Axis:
Telephone: + 55 (51) 3230-3333 / (51) 3230-3305 / Fax:
+ 55 (31) 3377-1471 / 3377-1043// 0800 307900
Cultural Design Production)
(51) 3230-3317 / (51) 3233-0444
Website: http://www.unibh.br
Website: http://www.uniritter.edu.br
Coordinator: Júnia Maria Rios Neto
Course: Design
Coordinator: Márcia Helena de Mendonça
Coordinator: Julio Cesar Caetano da Silva
Qualification: Fashion Design
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5. Florianópolis
FCS
Appendix 2
Appendix 3
Main Fashion Publications in Brazil
Important Designers, Stylists
Address: Praça da Inglaterra 02 — Ed. Nobre — Salvador — BA
Fundação Universidade de Santa Catarina (UDESC)
Telephone: + 55 (71) 3254 6035 / Fax: (71) 3254 6007
Address: Av. Madre Benventura 2007 — Campus I —
Florianópolis — SC
Website: http://www.faculdadedacidade.edu.br
and Brazilian Fashion Houses
Telephone: + 55 (48) 3321-8320
»»
Key (quarterly)
»»
Mag (quarterly)
1. Adriana Barra (RJ/SP)
E-mail: [email protected]; [email protected]
Course: Design
»»
Química Têxtil (Textile Chemistry — quarterly)
Educated in SP, Italy and England, she worked in films
Website: http://www.udesc.br
»»
Textília (quarterly)
and was partner in a firm making bikinis. She opened
»»
Vogue USA (monthly)
her first shop in December 2002, and makes bespoke
Course: Fashion
»»
WF+Varejo (WF-Retail, monthly)
exclusive clothes with a romantic touch. In 2008 she
Qualification: Styling
Duration: 8 Semesters / 3.126 hours
»»
World Fashion (monthly)
started a children’s line, Boobooska, using the same
Coordinator: Eudaldo Francisco
»»
UseFashion (quarterly)
retro— romantic style of her clothes for adults.
»»
Elle Brasil (monthly)
www.adrianabarra.com.br
UNIFACS
»»
Estilo (monthly)
Address: Av. Luís Viana, 3100 — Paralela — Salvador — BA
»»
In Style (monthly)
2. Alessa Migani (RJ)
Telephone: + 55 (71) 3206-6745/ 0800-284-0212
»»
L’Officiel Brasil (monthly)
A workaholic stylist from Rio known simply as Alessa;
»»
Vogue Brasil (monthly)
educated in Rio, Milan and London. Set up her show
Website: http://www.unifacs.br
room and studio in 2002 in Ipanema. After her arrival
Coordinator: Icléia Silveira e Silva
6. Salvador
back calico was never the same, she mixes it to form
Course: Fashion Design and Management
unusual and colourful clothes and has changed its
status from humble material to designer material. In
2003 she started selling to Selfridges in London. She
exports her style and clothes to countries in South
Centro Universitário Jorge Amado — Unijorge
Coordinator: Virgínia Saback and Márcia Couto Mello
America and Europe.
Address: Avenida Luis Vianna Filho 6775 — Salvador — BA
College Level Course with Specific Specialization: Fashion
www.alessa.com.br
Telephone: + 55 (71) 3206-8001 / (71) 3206-8002 / (71)
Management
3206-8002 / (71) 3206-8002 / (71) 3206-8002 / Fax: (71)
3. Alexandre Herchcovitch (SP)
3206-8099
Certificate/Diploma: Sequential specific specialization
He built up his career in 10 years and until a short
while ago the stylist from São Paulo used to create 8
Website: http://www.jorgeamado.edu.br
collections a year for his own label, and collections
them in New York, Paris and São Paulo. In 2002, Her-
Technology Axis: Cultural Production and Design
chcovitch took on the rejuvenation of the Cori label;
he has since left them and is now designing his own
exclusive line of clothes. In March 2007 he opened his
first shop outside Brazil, in Japan. And he enchants
Coordinator: Trícia Santos (Interim Coordinator)
clients in all parts of the world from Germany to New
Zealand.
herchcovitch.uol.com.br
64
65
of licensed products for various companies; showing
Course: Fashion Design Technology
4. Amazon Life (RJ)
7. Antonio Bernardo (RJ)
10. BumBum
13. Cavalera (SP)
The environmentalist Beatriz Saldanha founded the
One of the most renown names in contemporary
Created in 1979 when Alcindo Silva Filho, decided to
Cavalera was founded in 1995 as a partnership
label in 1997; and was a pioneer in the use of products
Brazilian jewellery. Has two shops but also sells his
put his bikinis on hangers instead of putting them in
between State Congressman Alberto Hiar, the “Crazy
made with materials from the Amazon Forest, espe-
pieces to other jewellers in Brazil and abroad. He is a
clothes bins as was customary at the time. He made
Turk”, and the “Sepultura” band drummer Igor Caval-
cially “vegetable” leather, made from latex extracted
perfectionist and that is why the jewellery he creates
fashion history when he created the famous “string”
era, who later left the company. Hiar was already
by Indians and natives of the Amazon region. She sells
can be compared to works of art. He has received
and redesigned the “tanga” with its high waistline. In
known for his surf clothing. Cavalera is humorous
it to other labels such as Totem, Osklen and Tereza
many awards such as the “iF Product Design Award”
May 2007 he opened a virtual shop on the Second Life
youth oriented fashion house employing a lot of
Santos, besides the French Hermés label. Recently
(German). In 2004 he received the IJL award at the
and in April 2008 they sponsored the Miss Brazil USA
young stylists. It has 13 shops in 4 cities, and sells
the Italian label Braccialini has given Amazon Life a 5
International Jewellery Fair in London.
contest. BumBum have 7 shops in Rio, 2 in São Paulo
to another 800 shops. Its’ cloths can also be found in
year license to acquire the know-how to manufacture
www.antoniobernardo.com.br
and one each in Bahia and Espirito Santo. It is one of
Argentina, Japan and the Netherlands.
the most known Brazilian beach fashion labels.
www.cavalera.com.br
handbags. Despite still being owned by the 150 indig-
www.bumbum.com.br
enous families in Acre it has internationalized to such
8. Arezzo
an extent that its website is in Italian and English.
The ladies shoe factory was founded by the Birman
www.amazonlife.com
brothers in 1972; Arezzo is known for the quality of its
11. Cantão/Redley (RJ)
Founded in 1990 it belongs to the largest Lycra mill
footwear. It also manufactures handbags, accessories
Cantão was created in 1967 by Leila and Peter Simon.
in South America and uses its textile know-how to
and costume jewellery
They have a creative jeans line and other products
develop its products. Its’ beachwear is known through-
such as accessories and shoes. They have 16 shops in
out Brazil. It is the biggest supplier of bikini to several
5. Ana Nordeste (RJ)
She studied to be a goldsmith with famous goldsmith
14. Cia. Marítima (SP)
The company has 222 shops in Brazil and 7
as well as studying industrial and interior design. Has
abroad, 6 in Latin America, 2 in Portugal, and 5 in Chi-
Rio 17, in other states, and sell to more than 650 other
European countries and the United States.
produced pieces for fashion labels and films, custom-
na. It also has distributors in more than 20 countries.
shops in Brazil. Led by director Thomas Simon and
www.ciamaritima.com.br
ers can visit her studio in Ipanema only by appoint-
Their most daring step is their partnership with Prime
stylist Yamê Reis the company made an appearance at
ment.
Success in China that also represents brands such as
the Rio Fashion in 2005. At the same time it promoted
15. Colcci (SP)
www.ananordeste.com
Adidas. Up to 2016 the company plans to open 300
its sports and street wear label Redley, created in
Resurrected in 2000 it was later acquired by another
shops with an expected turnover of US$ 150 million.
1985.
company in Santa Catarina. Its’ clothes are basic and
www.arezzo.com.br
www.cantao.com.br; www.redley.com.br
have become fashionable. It exports to the Middle-
forest, and starts his designs by manufacturing the
9. Blue Man (RJ)
12. Carlos Miele (SP)
other labels, Forum and Trito. The company owns the
raw cloth. Has deep knowledge of production pro-
Created 1972 in Rio de Janeiro with a team of 10
He is a multidisciplinary designer with a fashion
labels Colcci, Sommer, Carmelitas, Forum and Triton.
cesses and has established working partnerships with
people; makes exclusive prints with a strong Brazilian
background. He designs have taken Brazilian fashion
A couple of years ago it contracted Gisele Bündchen to
textile manufacturers and artisans. Began his career
character. Have been exporting Brazilian beachwear
to new heights. He combines the primitive with the
present its clothes at the Paulo Fashion Week.
in 1992 when he moved to São Paulo and studied in
for the last 10 years. Blue Man believes that beach
contemporary using Brazilian technology and crafts-
www.colcci.com.br.
Paris for a season at the Berçot Studio. Back in Brazil
fashion is one of the most important ways to identify
manship. At present Miele’s creations can be bought
he has worked with various labels, his designs being
and spread Brazilian culture.
27 countries from department stores such as Intermix,
marked with certain irreverence; in 1999 launched his
www.blueman.com.br
Harrods and Harvey Nichols. He has his own shops in
East, Europe and Mexico. It has recently acquired two
Born in Belém his constant inspiration is the Amazon
own label. His designs can be seen in his showroom
São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and Salvador, and recently
and in certain shops in London and New York.
opened one in Miami.
www.andrelima.com.br
www.carlosmiele.com.br
66
6. André Lima (PA/SP)
67
16. Cori (SP)
20. 284 (SP)
24. Ellus (SP)
28. Farm (RJ)
Founded in 1957 as a tailor’s shop 3P; in the 60s
Named after the number of the old house where Daslu
Founded in 1972 as a jeans manufacturer. Now pro-
Created in 1996 by Marcello and Kátia Barros. In 1997
became popular making women’s trousers, in a time
used to have its offices, the company was founded by
duces luxury jeans-wear, still the company’s principal
they discovered the Babilônia Hype Fair, the alterna-
when skirts were still obligatory. It has 30 shops and
a third generation Daslu offspring. They aim to pro-
product. Nowadays takes part in most fashion events.
tive fashion fair in Rio where their work proved to be
sells to another 250 shops in the country; it exports to
duce Brazilian “fast-fashion”. The label was launched
It has its own shops and franchises all over Brazil. The
successful among Rio’s young people. In September
the USA and has a showroom in New York. It recently
at the Claro Rio Summer in November 2008. It has an
company is owned by Nelson Alvarenga and his wife
1999 they opened their first Farm shop in Copaca-
hired the stylists Dudu Bertholini and Rita Camparato.
innovative and eclectic youthful style.
Adriana Bonzon is in charge of styling. It also exports
bana. Today they have shops in 6 other states. In 2008
The pair has become known for their rereading of the
Remark: does not yet have an official website.
to Europe, Middle-East, Latin America, USA and Asia.
they launched the children’s line with the Fábula
www.ellus.com.br
(Fabel) label.
80s, using loud coloured prints, making caftans and
www.farmrio.com.br
urban body shirts for the Neon label.
21. Drosófila (MG)
www.cori.com.br
Set up by Dayse Soares in 1989; it has show rooms in 3
25. Erika Ikezili (SP)
large cities in Brazil and sells to 450 shops in the coun-
Of Japanese descent graduated in Fashion design in
29. Fause Haten (SP)
17. Cris Barros (SP)
try besides being represented in Canada and Japan. It
1999 and was already working as Alexandre Herchco-
In the 90’s he entered the world of fashion shows,
Created in 2003, the label is a beacon in ladies luxury
is known for its youthful fashion look. It mixes trends
vitch’s production assistant. Her work was shown for
his show at the SPFW of 1999 caught the eye of the
clothes. The label is sold in 60 shops throughout the
and exclusive prints.
the first time in fashion shows in 2000. In 2005 she
director of the American perfume producer Georgio
country and exports to 9 countries. Because of its al-
www.drosofila.com.br
took part in the official program of the São Paulo Fash-
Beverly Hills who was looking for an unknown stylist
ion Week for the first time. She uses Japanese influ-
to launch a new fragrance in the USA. Fause Haten
most immediate success caused others fashion houses
opened shops close to it. It opened a flagship store in
22. Éden (SP)
ences in her work and her collections are thematic.
was chosen from among 15 other candidates. A year
2008 in a fashionable up-market neighbourhood of
Created in 2008 the first label in Brazil to produce
www.erikaikezili.com.br.
later he had his first show in New York and later be-
São Paulo.
100% organic clothing; Eden is YD Clothes label. The
www.crisbarros.com.br
manufacturer provides technical support to other
26. Espaço Fashion (RJ)
men’s fashion is defined as chic extravagant, half-way
companies who produce the organic products and
Colourful, modern, feminine clothing with the “Cario-
between haute couture and prêt-a-porter. In 2001 he
18. Daslu (SP)
helps them obtain the NOW (Natural Organic World)
ca” spirit mark, these are the distinguishing features
was awarded best stylist of the year by ABIT. Fause
Founded by Lucia de Albuquerque as a luxury bou-
certification. It has a shop in São Paulo furnished com-
of the designs made the sisters Bianca and Camila Bas-
has a working partnership with various retail chains
tique in 1958 in what today is the luxury Mecca of
pletely from recycled and organic materials
tos, who started out in 1997. In June 2008 they took
and has a shop in São Paulo.
Brazil where most international luxury labels are sold.
www.edenfashion.com.br
part in Rio Fashion for the first time. Today they have
www.fausehaten.com.br
shops in Rio, São Paulo, Minas Gerais and Bahia.
In 1970 the founder’s daughter Eliana Tranchesi took
www.espacofashionbrasil.com.br
over the business, and it grew fantastically in the
23. Elisa Atheniense
90s. She brought important international labels from
Created in 1987 her work is based on trends from
30. Francesca Romana Diana (RJ/SP)
Chanel to Gucci to Brazil. There is also a men’s shop
exotic places, mixing different textiles and colours;
27. Fábia Bercsek (SP)
ativity; opened her first studio in Rome and fell in love
selling such labels s Ermenegildo Zegna and Salvatore
her exclusive handbags are used by celebrities such as
She is an illustrator which uses her talent to create ex-
with the stones found in the Minas Gerais. Her shops
Ferragamo and Church shoes from England. Today it
Cameron Diaz and Sienna Miller. Her products are sold
clusive prints and Clothes. Her career took a leap when
can be found in Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo, Salvador and
sells all kinds of luxury items in its large store in São
in the USA, Europe and Asia.
she worked as an intern for Herchowitch for three
Brasília. Her designs are also sold in Portugal, Spain,
Paulo.
www.elisaatheniense.com.br
years. She then stared creating her own collections.
France, Brussels and the USA. .
She worked another two years for André Hidalgo and
www.francescaromanadiana.com
Jewellery designer known for her good taste and cre-
www.daslu.com.br
in June 2004 opened her own shop and studio in São
19. Denis Linhares (RJ)
Paulo. January 2005 she made her debut at the SPFW.
His hats are handcrafted . Denis Linhares has received
www.fabiabercsek.com.br
many awards for his hats and they can be seen at all
kinds of fashionable events .
www.denislinhares.com.br
68
69
came part of the official Milan program. His ladies’ and
31. Franziska Hübener (RS)
34. Gloria Coelho/Carlota Joakina (SP)
38. H. Stern
41. Isabela Capeto (RJ)
German accessory designer living in Brazil; her cre-
Opened her shop in 1995; is married to stylist Rein-
Founded in 1945 by the German Hans Stern who was
Founded in 2003 by Isabela Capeto; she was educated
ations were initially sold at Daslu in the 80s. Opened
aldo Lourenço, a big name in fashion. Their son Pedro
born nearly blind and was only able to see through
at the Fashion Academy in Florence; before starting
her first shop in 1982 in a Mall in São Paulo, besides
Lourenço made his styling debut when he was only
one eye; H. Stern is the largest chain of jewellery
her own label in 2003 in Rio she worked with at impor-
her two shops in São Paulo she has another one in Rio
13 (2003). Gloria moved to Paris in 1970 and studied
shops in Brazil, and fifth in the world. It employs 3500
tant fashion houses. She is inspired by museums and
and sell her work in 100 shops in Brazil besides shops
at the Studio Berçot, returning to Brazil in 1974 and
people and has 160 shops, half of them abroad in other
books. Each piece is like a work of art, made by hand.
in Europe, USA and Japan.
launching her first collection for G, her label’s initial
21 countries; producing 20 thousand pieces per month.
Since October 2003 her label has been shows in Paris.
www.franziskahubener.com.br
name. Her Gloria Coelho clothing is aimed at fashion-
In 1945 when the young entrepreneur opened
his shop to sell gems and jewellery he was dissatisfied
rest, her clothes and accessories can be found in more
32. Gatos de Rua (BA)
second brand Carlota Joakina aimed at young women.
with the standard of polishing and workmanship. He
than 20 countries.
Accessories label, designs made from recycled materi-
She has innumerable shops in Brazil and a showroom
sent for European goldsmiths to work in his company.
www.isabelacapeto.com.br
als, at present there are more than 3000 items. Makes
in Paris and London from where her collections are
In the 60’s his brand was world famous. In 1964 Time
use of franchises. Its business is expanding, 14 shops,
exported to various countries.
Magazine called him the world’s “gem king”. Today the
42. Jo de Mer (SP)
the goal is to reach 35 at the end of 2008. The label
www.gloriacoelho.com.br
company is managed by his sons (see main text)
After working as a fashion editor for many years
www.hstern.com.br
Amalia Spinardi decided during a sabbatical to produce
employs 110 thousand people in Brazil and benefits
150 poor people in Recife. It is led by the stylist-artist
35. Guerreiro (RJ/SP)
Beto Kelner.
In 1970 José Carlos Guerreiro travelled al over Brazil
39. Huis Clos (SP)
was born Jo de Mer.
www.gatosderua.com.br
modelling for the Rhodia Company. In 1972 he opened
Founded in 1979 by the stylist Clô Orozco, the label’s
www.jodemer.com.br
a line of sophisticated bikinis and bathing suits, thus
his first studio, making pieces in leather and silver.
name in spite of sounding like the founders name was
33. Gilson Martins (RJ)
After a break of several years he opened a shop in Sâo
inspired by a play written by Jean-Paul Sartre. Classic
43. Le Lis Blanc (SP)
Son of a seamstress and upholsterer entered Art
Paulo. Opened another shop in the Daslu store and one
women’s fashion for women from 25 to 60. Has two
The label was created in 1988 and is associated with
School in 1982. Tore his rucksack and decided to make
in St. Tropez and another Paris. He has a famous clien-
other exclusive labels and works with many design-
quality and elegance, designed for the top-end of
another one from beach chair canvas; he opened his
tele and is present at all the most important fashion
ers. It has 5 shops in Brazil and sells to 50 shops in the
the market, with a large range of products, including
first factory the same year supplying various shops in
events, also develops collections for Cia. Maritima.
country and has a presence in the USA and Spain.
home-furnishings launched in 2005. It sells through
Rio. In 1993 he made his first “sculptured handbags”.
www.guerreiro.com
www.huisclos.com.br
its own shops or franchises in the whole of Brazil.
Ipanema, believing in the fusion of art and fashion.
36. Havaianas
40. Iodice (SP)
www.gilsonmartins.com.br
Initially beach sandals first produced in 1962 (see
Valdemar Iodice started as a knitwear designer and
44. Lenny (SP)
main text)
then moved on to jeans. In 2001 opened its principal
Founded in 1993; Lenny Niemeyer arrived in Rio in
www.havaianas.com.br
shop on the fashionable “Rua Oscar Freire” in São
1980. While he was looking for sophisticated bikinis
Paulo. It sells to approximately 500 shops in Brazil and
with a “carioca” charm he discovered not only a talent
37. Hering
also to Saks Fifth Ave. and Nieman Marcus in the USA.
but a new profession. Since he could not find what
On the market for 128 years, is the best known clothes
www.iodice.com.br
he was looking for he hired a seamstress and started
label in the country, making primarily T-shirts (the
making exactly what he liked. He now has 18 shops in
world’s second largest producer after Fruit-of-the-
Brazil and sells to shops in the USA and Europe.
Loom). It has stores in most malls of Brazil; even
www.lenny.com.br
launched a perfume Dzarm in 2007.
www.hering.com.br
70
71
www.lelis.com.br
He opened an Art Gallery at the back of his shop in
She works with the fashion consultancy Robert For-
able and sophisticated women; in 1995 launched her
45. Lino Villaventura (SP)
48. Luiza Bonadiman (RJ)
51. Maria Bonita (RJ)
they produced an exclusive number of bathing suits.
The stylist, who 1989 had already made a name for
Founded in 2004, makes sophisticated and luxurious
A fashion label created in 1975 by Maria C. Sarmento
The brand is known for its sense of humour and its
himself at least 10 years before, gained visibility
beachwear and accessories. In 2006 became part of
and Malba P. de Paiva. In 2002 Alexandre Aquino
coloured prints. It has a showroom in Sâo Paulo, and
when he was invited to represent Brazil at an interna-
the Fashion Rio and has caught the attention from the
became a partner in the company. Maria Bonita has a
is sold in 85 shops including Tokyo. They use different
tional trade fair in Japan, the World Trade Fashion. He
international press.
contemporary style and is known for the finish of its
artists to design the patterns for each collection.
was soon selling his cloths in Tokyo, London and New
www.luizabonadiman.com
clothes. When Sarmento died in 2002, Danielle Jensen
www.neonbrazil.com.br
York. Besides a name in the world of fashion he was
her assistant took over. It has 7 shops in Brazil and
also making a name in the arts. In 1988 the Stedelijk
49. Mana Bernardes (RJ)
sells in 150 shops throughout the country.
55. New Order (RJ)
Museum in Amsterdam bought a video of his work;
A costume jewelry designer using alternative materi-
www.mariabonita.com.br
An Osklen Group company created to meet the de-
he has participated in fashion related exhibitions. He
als such as PET plastic, sticks, etc. All made by artisans
regularly shows collections at fashion weeks and was
trained by her. The object is to promote education,
52. Maria Oiticica (RJ)
sories. New Order is constantly innovating and has
one of the first to use natural materials, fish leather,
culture and citizenship, besides generating income. An
Founded in 2003 by Maria Oiticica from the Amazon
developed partnerships with artists and stylists who
latex, straw, mixing them with lace, muslins and taf-
NGO “To be a Citizen” has trained more than 300 ado-
region. Her work is known for its originality and that
have original ideas. In 2008 preoccupied with sustain-
fetas.
lescents to use her methods. Her creative potential has
she works with natural indigenous materials. She
ability and social issues, they got together with the
www.linovillaventura.com.br
led to working partnerships with labels and artists
helps to improve the quality of life for the people in
Deborah Colker Movement Centre, an important dance
from different disciplines. Has held various national
the region. The result of her work is rustic chic. In
group in Brazil, for whom they supply the shoes.
46. Lorenzo Merlino (SP)
and international exhibitions. She is a great contempo-
2005 her costume jewellery was sold successfully in
www.neworder.com.br
Graduated in fashion in 1994, a year later he produced
rary Brazilian fashion talent.
England, at Liberty’s and Harvey Nichols stores where
his first individual show. Shortly afterwards he went
www.manabernardes.com.br
she has a counter. In Brazil she has 3 shops and a
56. Osklen (RJ)
showroom in Rio.
The brand was created in Rio in 1989 by Oskar Metsa-
www.mariaoiticica.com.br
vaht. Besides various shops all over the country it has
the Berçot Institute in Paris. Returning to Brazil he
50. Marcelo Sommer / DoEstilista (SP)
launched his label in partnership with Marcelo Bar-
Studied at the St. Martins School of Arts in London,
bosa. Has participated in fashion events abroad and
once back in Brazil worked for labels such as Zoomp,
53. Melissa
opened shops in New York, Rome, Milan, Tokyo, Por-
has produced collections for special events (uniforms)
M2000 and Calvin Klein. In 1995 he started his own
A plastic shoe brand, created in 1979 inspired by
tugal and Geneva, and has showrooms in Italy, Spain,
and companies Motorola (cell phone accessories), Viz-
label. In 1997 he began to show at the SPFW. He has
the shoes used by fishermen on the French Riviera.
Greece, Portugal and exports to Belgium, Chile and the
zano (shoes).
also been in charge of the wardrobe for video-clip
The Grandene Company launched the sandal which
Middle East (see main text)
www.lorenzomerlino.com
productions featuring various artists. Another aspect
became one of the largest exporters of Brazilian
www.osklen.com
of his career is social action developing a line of T-shirt
style. In 2005 they launched the first plastic concept
47. Luciana Galeão (BA)
for fund raising purposes and twice producing a col-
store in the world, the Galleria Melissa. Found in more
57. Parceria Carioca (RJ)
Is self taught, began in 1996 and only graduated in
lection for the Seamstress Cooperative of the Rocinha,
than 3000 shops all over the world. In 2007 Melissa
The name means “working partnership from Rio”, cre-
Fashion in 2000. In 2006 she became part of the Fash-
and in 2007 he signed the collection of the band and
launched a collection of coloured Clogs inspired by the
ated by Flávia Torres and is known for its work in poor
ion Rio line-up. Worked two years for Márcia Ganem
NGO AfroReggae. His shows at the SPFW have always
famous Dutch wooden clogs (see main text)
communities and its works with recycled materials.
and began to look for a personal identity. Cotton is
been big events; he was dismissed as creative director
www.melissa.com.br
As the name implies it started as an initiative with the
the basis of her creations, which always have some-
of his own the brand which is now called Thaís Losso.
thing hand-made about them. Clothes can be bought
He then proceeded to launch a new label “Do Estilista”
54. Neon (SP)
who was invited by him to teach handcraft techniques
in shops all over the country; loves artwork and has
which is already part of the official SPFW program. His
Founded in 2002 by the stylist and designers from
in the São Cipriano project for poor girls, on the west-
produced collections inspired by Gaudí and Op Art.
Winter Collection 2009 was inspired by the Nether-
São Paulo, Dudu Bertholini and Rita Comparato, old
side of Rio. The course was a success and a year later
www.lucianagaleao.com.br
lands and its cultural and national icons.
friends for fashion school. They have worked for some
the first shop was opened to sell the things made by
www.doestilista.com.br
famous brands such as Triton, Zapping and Cori, hav-
the students, and two others shops have been opened
ing produced some items for fashion photographer
since then.
J.B. Duran. They liked the experience that for a year
www.parceriacarioca.com.br
two flagship stores in São Paulo and Rio and has also
72
fashion editor Geraldo Jordão Pereira and the designer,
73
to France to specialize and obtained an internship at
mand for different kinds of ladies shoes and acces-
58. Patrícia Amorim (MG)
61. Raia de Goeye (SP)
64. Ronaldo Fraga (MG)
68. Sementeira (RJ)
Costume Jewellery designer educated at the Guignard
Created by Paula Raya and Fernanda de Goye, accord-
Established since 1997, in 2001 he was invited to
Established in 2003, the result of the coming to-
art school and also as a stylist by Federal University of
ing to them heir clothing makes women more beauti-
take part in the SPFW and since then has presented
gether of the designer Camila Bezerra who worked in
Minas Gerais. She is a teacher at the SENAIS jewel-
ful. For them sophistication is subtle and natural;
two collections annually. Right from the start in
advertising for 10 years and Vanessa Mena Barreto a
lery design school and takes part in exhibitions and
sensuality is not explicit. Extreme good quality, casual
2001-2002 he received the ABIT award. His clothing
financial planner. The label is named after a specific
contests; was awarded the New Talents prize. She
luxury and limited numbers are their signature
is considered one of the most original of the present
root. With points of sale in several states of Brazil and
develops jewellery collections for industry.
www.raiadegoeye.com.br
Brazilian designers. Sold at two of his own shops and
in Portugal, the label tries to translate their preoccu-
30 shops in the country. The designer is also involved
pation with ecology, well-being and sustainability.
62. Ricardo Almeida (SP)
in social projects and runs groups doing in handicraft
www.sementeira.com
59. Patrícia Viera (RJ)
He is the most famous name formal men’s wear in Bra-
work for the Project “Talents of Brazil”.
Comes from Rio; worked in London in 1974 as the as-
zil. In 1979 he became a partner in a clothing factory,
www.ronaldofraga.com.br
sistant to Sally Mee. Five years later she returned to
and in 1983 he left to develop his own brand. In the
Brazil and worked with the stylist Mauro Taubman;
beginning he manufactured for other outlets, in 1990
65. Rosa Chá (SP)
turning to Brazil from Italy where she studied design.
worked on two shoe collections. She opened her own
he opened his first shop. He uses the finest materi-
Founded by the stylist Amir Slama in 1988 “Rosa Chá”
Simone was invited by Paulo Borges to participate in
leather clothes factory in 1998 selling to different
als, and his brand is shown at the SPFW. In 2002 he
produces Brazilian fashion with a difference and of an
the “Amni Hot Spot” project in 2001. Did 11 shows until
clients. In 1999 she sold her label items to Browns in
launched a second brand RA Sport for informal clothes.
internationally high standard. In 2000 the label began
2006, in January 2007 she was invited to take part
London and also to Barney’s in New York. She sells to
He also is wardrobe designer for film, TV and theatre.
its took part in the New York Fashion Week. It has
in the SPFW. In 2005 she was chosen as one of the
luxury shops in Brazil. In 2004 she started showing at
The President is one of his clients, besides selling at
three franchises abroad in Portugal, Miami and New
best new designers in the world by the “Sample” book
the Fashion Rio and two years later at the SPFW. This
Daslu he has two shops of his own and his clothes can
York. In 2006 the label became a part of the Rosa Chá
published by Phaidon and is considered among Brazil’s
she continues to do.
also be found in other shops around the country.
Studio a company allied to Marisol S.A. managed by
5 most influential designers. Her international career
www.patriciaviera.com.br
www.ricardoalmeida.com.br
Giuliano Cedroni.
began in 2006 when she took part in fairs in Milan,
www.rosacha.com.br
Tokyo and Paris.
69. Simone Nunes (SP)
Founded by the designer Simone Nunes soon after re-
www.simonenunes.com.br
60. Pedro Lourenço (SP)
63. Reinaldo Lourenço (SP)
Pedro Lourenço developed his first collection when
He started as an assistant to the stylist Glória Coelho
66. Salinas (RJ)
he was only 13 for his mother’s Gloria Coelho’s second
whom he married in the beginning of the 80s. Worked
The brand appeared in Ipanema in 1982, known for its
70. Sobral (RJ)
label “Carlota Joaquina” later changed to “Carlota
with the fashion consultant Costanza Pascolato and
identification with the Rio Lifestyle - comfortable and
Accessories label made from polyester resin designed
Joakina”. In the winter edition of the 2005 SPFW he of-
went to study in France at the Studio Berçot, where he
humorous. It has 10 shops in the best locations of São
the award winning designer Carlos Alberto Sobral
ficially launched his own label, named after him. Even
worked with its director Marie Ruckie, as did his wife.
Paulo and Rio. 13 franchises besides being sold in 400
in the 70s. In 1988 and 1989 Valentino sent him silk
though he was successful with the 7 collections he
In 1984 he started his own label in São Paulo, devel-
shops in the country, and is exported to 39 countries.
which he would encase in resin to make accessories
showed he gave up his career in 2006. He went back to
oping sophisticated women’s clothing. Today he is an
Distribution was expanded in 2002 and it tripled in 2004.
for the show. He has 5 awards from the L’Étoile de
finish high school and to study French and Art History
established figure in the fashion world and also has
www.salinasswimwear.com
Mode in Paris. He opened his first shop in 2001 in
in France. In 2008 he returned to Brazil and showed a
working partnerships with several industries. He has
collection without commercial gain whilst he contin-
a showroom and two shops in São Paulo selling also at
67. Sarah Chofakian (SP)
the world with his Brazilian style. He has also signed
ues his studies
Daslu and other 120 shops in the country and abroad.
In 1995 Sarah decided to test her entrepreneurship
important working partnerships with the French label
www.pedrolourenco.com
www.reinaldolourenco.com.br
and opened the Kian store in São Paulo. She discov-
Agnès B and Karl Lagerfeld from Chanel. Today he has
ered a talent for design and started to manufacture
5 shops in Rio, and his work is sold around the world.
her own clothes and sell them in her shop. She has
His business has been expanding by leaps and bounds,
four shops in Sâo Paulo and one in Rio, and stands on
with shops in Sâo Paulo (see main text)
exclusivity producing about 80 models per collection,
www.rsobral.com.br
Paris. Since then he has acquired clients from around
with little variation in colours and sizes.
www.sarahchofakian.com.br
74
75
Remark: she has no website.
71. Tereza Santos (MG)
75. Triton/Forum/Tufi Duek (SP)
Zeferino indicates what the name means: Brazilian
Started her label in 2002, based on sophisticated
Forum is the second and most famous label created
character. Their designers Patrícia Viera, internation-
knitwear for women’s prêt-a-porter; participates in
by Tufi Duek, 46, born in Rio raised in São Paulo. He
ally known, Alberto Pitta and Goya Lopes are strongly
all fashion events and has many corporate working
started working in fashion when he was 17, launching
influenced by African culture and unusual treatment
partnerships designing uniforms, and also with Ama-
the Triton label (knitwear for teenagers) in 1975 when
of the materials. The brand has shops in São Paulo,
zon Life which creates eco packaging for her label.
he was 21. It was the Forum set up with his brother
Minas Gerais, Brasília and Paraná; their shoes are
Is part of the Integrated Sector Project of the Export
Isaac in 1981 that brought him fame, and now is one
made in their own factory in Novo Hamburgo.
Promotion and Designer Unions (Apex-ABEST) whose
of the most important Brazilian fashion designers.
www.zeferino.com.br
purpose is to internationalize Brazilian fashion.
In 1998 he went international opening a showroom
www.terezasantos.com
in New York with Clothes labelled Tufi Duek. He has
79. Zoomp/Zapping (SP)
taken part in the SPFW since 1996 and produces two
After having tried several professions Renato Kher-
72. Tereza Xavier (RJ)
collections a year, has branched out into perfume and
lakian just followed family tradition and set up 1974.
A jewellery designer who uses such unusual materi-
sunglasses
At one time his family of Armenian descent even
als as indigenous cotton and straw and joins them
www.triton.com.br; www.forum.com.br
had a cashmere distribution business in London. The
first jeans made were anatomic and had a lightning
with traditional gems and metals, creating a unique
style. Has won the International Diamond Award; and
76. Triya (SP)
label that became their trademark. 30 years in the
supplied pieces for TV productions which have become
Ladies fashion label founded in 2004 by the friends
business its clothes are sold in their own shops and
highly successful.
Isabela B. Frugiuele, Carla Franco and Bebel Fioravanti
under franchise. A showroom in Paris takes care of
www.terezaxavier.com.br
in São Paulo. In January 2008 Triya associated itself
the international distribution. The label is present at
with ABEST; has taken part in international fairs,
all fashion events. Known for its creative advertising
73. Thaís Losso (SP)
and is starting to export. It also has a children’s line;
it has had its lighting brand off the air for a number of
She is considered the most pop fashion designer in
started a home furnishings line for beach homes. .
years to see if it diminishes the fury with which the
Brazil. She worked as style coordinator for labels such
www.triya.com.br
label is pirated.
www.zoomp.com.br
as Cavalera, Zapping and Sommer, attracting lots of
media attention. Has done more than 15 shows during
77. Walter Rodrigues (SP)
the Fashion weeks and during the last edition she
Known for his long and fluid dresses inspired by the
was part of “Container Fashion” (labels that have a
silhouette of the 30s and oriental culture, his clothes
freer look on fashion and present their collections in
are sold in shops all over the country. He started his
containers at the “Marina da Gloria” in Rio. Is also a
label in 1992, and takes part in the important fashion
fashion consultant for other large companies.
events. His trademark is sophistication. He believes
thaislosso.blig.ig.com.br
that the future of fashion lies in technology, because
the past century, and that is why research is funda-
Surf-wear label created in 1995 by Fred D’Orey, a
mental to discover new dyes, materials and finishing
surfer and journalist, editor in chief of the surfing
that can give fashion a new impulse.
magazine “Fluir” from 1988 to 1989. Surfing trips to
www2.uol.com.br/walterrodrigues
forms and structures haven’t changed much during
74. Totem (RJ)
Indonesia were inspiration for the first Collections.
That’s how Totem label began. At present he has 9
78. Zeferino (SP)
shops in Brazil and is represented in the USA, Portu-
A luxury footwear label; a partnership between Edu-
gal, England and Greece.
ardo Rabinovich and Jorge Guimarães with marketing
www.totempraia.com.br.
done by Paulo Borges, creator of the SPFW. The name
76
77
Professional Resumeés
Researcher’s Assistent: Janaína Medeiros
([email protected])
Reasearcher: Paula Acioli
(data, websites, fashion publications, magazines, etc).
([email protected])
Janaina Medeiros is from Rio de Janeiro. Journalist,
Paula Acioli is from Rio de Janeiro. Master in Fashion,
graduate in Social Communication from UFRJ Univer-
Culture and Arts through Centro Universitário Senac SP;
sidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro (Federal University of
Graduated in Design and Visual Communication through
Rio de Janeiro), has a post-graduate degree in Fashion
Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro (the Federal Uni-
and Clothing Studies from the Universidade Estácio de
versity of Rio de Janeiro) and specialized in Fashion with
Sá (Unesa).
a diploma from the London College of Fashion, — one of
the most prestigious fashion colleges in the world.
Heads the company P/A Professional Pesquisa
Been in the profession for more than a decade
she has worked for some of the largest Brazilian print
and media companies. She did an internship at United
e Consultoria de Moda (Fashion Research and Consul-
Press International (UPI) and at the end of the 90s
tancy) and GEM — Fashion Studies Group both in Rio
became a writer for the International and City desks
de Janeiro. Does consultancy work and takes part in
of the “Jornal do Brasil”, working there until 2005.
special projects, lectures and courses to Educational and
Specialized in covering youth subjects, writing for
Cultural Institutions such as SENAC, British Council (UK/
magazines such “Capricho” (Editora Abril) and “At-
BR) SICA (The Netherlands) as well as companies such
revida” (Símbolo Editora). Since 2001 she has worked
as L’Oréal, Rede Globo, Rio Design Center, Fashion Mall,
for women’s monthly magazines such as Marie Claire,
Livraria da Travessa and Casa do Saber.
Cláudia, Nova, Elle, Corpo-a-Corpo, Uma, Vida Execu-
Worked as a teacher at the SENAC Fashion Centre
tiva, and Boa Forma. In 2006 she began to coordinate
in Rio; participated in the creation of the First Fashion
the journalistic content of culture, education and
Trends Directory of the Institution. Participated in vari-
public causes’ projects in partnership with interna-
ous projects in a working partnership with the British
tional organizations. During that same year, she was
Council of Rio de Janeiro, such as the Inward Fashion
invited to write two books for the Collection “Special
Mission, promoted by the British Chamber of Commerce,
Reporter” of the Publisher “Terceiro Nome”: Carioca
whose objective was to strengthen commercial and
Funk: Crime or Culture? (2006) and Plastic Surgery:
exchange links between Brazilian and British fashion.
From Useful to Futile (2008). At present she is editor-
Coordinator at FGV / Fundação Getúlio Vargas
- Fashion Business Course and Fashion Coordina-
in-chief of Fashion Life magazine (monthly) aimed at
luxury consuming segment of the population.
institutions in Rio de Janeiro). Professor at the school’s
tor for the Design Course of the UniverCidade (both
extension courses for Fashion Forecasting and MBA in
Fashion Management.
Author of the book 30 Fashion Designers of Rio
(Senac/Rio editions) and guest author in the book 46
Fashion Books that you must read (Memória Visual
editions), besides writing fashion articles for Brazilian
newspapers and magazines. At present she is preparing
the launch of her third book on fashion.
78
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M app in g B razil Projec - Consulado Geral do Reino dos Países

Transcription

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