P68-75 UTAH - Magpie Cycling Adventures

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Red Rock Rumble
Get ready for white knuckle descents and lung bursting climbs, but don’t get distracted by the scenery or there could be spills
as well as thrills. Matt Kadey takes a spin around the White Rim Trail, Utah.
My ears are ringing with silence; the
only relief coming from a raven's
caw, a collared lizard scampering to
find shelter under a desert bush and
the sound of my lungs taking in the
untarnished air. A tranquil bliss
harshly broken by the certainty that
what's unfolding beneath my tires is
1,000 feet of elevation gain out of
this canyon. Mineral Bottom is the
trip's longest and final monster
climb. Breathless and sunburnt, we
emerge from the serpentine
switchbacks with the sense of pride
that comes from conquering one of
mountain biking's crowning jewels.
Sandwiched between the
meandering Colorado and Green
rivers in southeastern Utah, the
White Rim Trail loops 160-kilometres
through a wilderness of mystifying
rock formations in Canyonlands
National Park Island in the Sky
district. Early on, the land around this
Island in the Sky mesa was home to
ranchers and grazing cattle. But, by
the 1950s, a perceived need for
uranium (in case America felt the
urge to nuke the USSR to oblivion)
led the Atomic Energy Commission
to build this trail – really more of a
craggy dirt road – to facilitate its
extraction. When the Cold War
thawed and the national park came
into existence, mining here went the
way of the dodo leaving behind a
path that is today one of the US’s
premier multi-day mountain bike
destinations. And it just happens to
begin in a most spectacular way.
Everyone talks wildly about the
early miles known as the Shafer
switchbacks, and wild they are.
Dropping me briskly 1,400 pedal-free
feet and a geological age or two
from the Colorado Plateau, it’s a
challenge to focus on the screamin’
zig zag plunge when all around is a
panoramic scene of red rock and the
biting morning desert air is ripping
over my cheeks like sandpaper.
Ten hair-raising minutes later, a
group of 12 wide-eyed cyclists are
deposited at the White Rim – a
white, 280 million year old crusty
sandstone layer for which the trail is
named. Dressed as if we were
descending into the Siberian tundra,
we strip off layers of expensive hitech gear in anticipation of balmy
times ahead.
‘Over there at Fossil Point is
where they filmed the final scene of
Thelma & Louise,’
Our guide Mike, with his trademark
enthusiasm points out this quirky
Hollywood factoid as we pour into
Goosenecks Overlook. It’s here I get
my first glimpse of the fudge-painted
Colorado River as it turns on itself,
transporting the landscape particle
by particle. In the distance,
separated by convoluted folds of
sandstone is the adventure hub
Moab and the snow dusted La Sal
Mountains. We’ve only come 13
kilometres and I can see the other
riders are already overcome by this
mountain bike Shangri-la.
Beneath a blue sky and a
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1) Unloading gear at White
Crack campground
2) Hiking at White Crack
campground
3) Cycling up Hardscabble Hill
4) Cooking morning chow at
Airport Campground
5) Going over the day’s ride in
the morning at Airport
Campground
6)Cycling the giant scenery of
the White Rim
Overlooking Soda Springs Basin
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dazzling, tepid sun, we spend the
afternoon undulating past juniper and cacti in
this generally sere landscape until shadows
begin to slink across the trail. It’s apparent
that the wide-open surroundings and fresh
air is bringing out our juvenile sides as I
gleefully race Tabi, my fellow canuck
travel companion, in to the Airport Tower
campground, startling a seldom-seen
bighorn sheep into retreat.
In no time our tent city, named for the
1,400 foot monolith watching over us,
Exploring Holeman slot canyon
is transformed into a world class
restaurant. ‘We focus mostly on
organic and locally grown foods,’ coguide Maggie informs us with her
consistently sprightly disposition as
she and Mike rustle up miso soup and
grilled salmon – not exactly fare that
you’d expect in one of the nation’s
most isolated places. Happily gorging
on Dutch oven apple crisp, we watch
as the setting sun turns our
environment into a fiery red mantle.
With the crisp night air taking hold,
we skitter to our tents to sleep the
sleep of the dead. The harsh desert
chill is the only thing keeping me from
rolling out my sleeping bag under the
arcing Milky Way overhead.
Following a long day in the saddle,
morning comes all too quickly, as the
sky does a Michael Jackson, going
from dark to light. The easy start to the
day which skirts past the overhung lips
of Buck and Gooseberry canyons’
sheer, white-capped sandstone cliffs is
welcome as legs and lungs labour in
the thin desert air. I also find myself
struggling not to stop every few tire
rotations to photograph the stunning
scenery unfolding around me.
Monument Basin with its towering
ivory topped pinnacles alone takes a
good chunk out of my memory card.
But today’s highlight will not come on
the bike.
‘We’re totally stoked to get
this site,’ said Mike during our pre-trip
meeting in Moab. His enthusiasm is the
result of securing the White Crack
7) Gooseneck Overlook
8) Overlooking Soda Springs Basin
9) Cooking morning chow at Airport Campground
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10) Enjoying a much deserved lunch break on top
of Murphy’s Hogback
11) Cycling (or pushing) up Murphy’s Hogback
12) Sunrise – Candlestick campground
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by the 1950s, a perceived need for
uranium (in case America felt the
urge to nuke the USSR to oblivion)
led the Atomic Energy Commission
to build this trail
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Preparing to launch down Murphy’s Hogback
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13) Morning bike clinic – White Crack Campground
14) White Crack Campground
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15) Support Truck making its way up Murphy’s Hogback
16) Cooking up morning nosh at White Crack Campground
17) Morning Stretching – White Crack Campground
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campground. Located on a bluff overlooking the park’s
mysterious and beautiful Maze and Needles districts,
this idyllic encampment is the White Rim’s most
beloved and difficult to secure.
A relatively short day on the trail
affords us plenty of opportunity to hike down
the multi-hued canyon along a dilapidated
Emphemeral pools – White Crack Campground
road built to access the confluence of the
Colorado and Green Rivers. On the way, we
tread lightly around a myriad of limpid
ephemeral pools. Throughout Canyonlands,
sandstone basins collect rain water and
wind-blown sediment, forming itsy-bitsy
ecosystems. Able to tolerate extreme
environmental fluctuations, pothole
organisms like brine shrimp are as tough
as they come. We’ll need to be just as
tenacious to take on Murphy’s Hogback.
Built by John and Otho Murphy in the
early nineteen hundreds to move their
cattle from the White Rim to the top of
the Island in the Sky, Murphy’s Hogback
is the trail’s most remorseless ascent,
requiring a herculean effort and your
lowest gears just to get over the loose
rocks perched on the steepest of
inclines. Around each curve, my eyes
follow the pencil line of dirt winding up
the hogback as I beg the mountain bike
gods for forgiveness. My pulse races as
if I was on a first date. With lots of
pushing and a bit of Hank Williams
pumping out of Brian’s (a climbing guide
from Moab) iPod, we all eventually
emerge at 5,200 feet with a panoramic
view of Soda Springs Basin’s open
expanse and the mammoth Candlestick
Tower rising from its basin floor.
There, between bites of
sandwich tasting never better for being
eaten under the sun’s fierce glare, we
reflect on the climb’s relentlessness, the
awe inspiring landscape our pedal strokes
are taking us through and question the
sanity of four riders zipping by in pursuit
of conquering this vast path in a single
day. With three lung-busting climbs and
perpetually distracting geology, Lou
Warner’s six hour, thirty-six minute single
day lap record seems like more urban
legend than the granddaddy of fitness
triumphs. Our four-day pace is agreeable,
and with views like that of the Organ Rock
formation reaching up along the shores of
the Green River below, I have little doubt
that I could ride here for weeks without a
diagnosis of home-sickness.
Tummies full, we flash happy-as-pigsin-shit grins at each other as we launch
ourselves off Hogback’s backside along
exposed, sheer edges at breakneck speeds.
Bounced around like a pinball on my hard-tail,
I’m a little green-eyed at those with fullsuspension bikes.
As the track straightens out, Soda Springs
Basin brings respite from the abrupt ups and
downs, though I find myself occasionally airborne as I
rattle off the slickrock bumps. Steep, but satisfyingly
short-lived Turks Pass affords us a high perch to
With three lung-busting climbs and
perpetually distracting geology, Lou
Warner’s six hour, thirty-six minute
single day lap record seems like
more urban legend than the
granddaddy of fitness triumphs.
Gooseneck Overlook
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Enjoying a much deserved lunch break on top of Murphy’s Hogback
WANNA RIDE?...
Guide
Permits
Permits are required to
overnight along the trail. With
more favourable weather,
spring and autumn slots are
understandably popular. So it’s
best to make reservations well
in advance if you expect to
secure the campgrounds of
your choice. The highly coveted
campsites are sometimes
scooped-up a year in advance.
Permits can be reserved
starting the second Monday in
July for the next calendar year.
Labyrinth
Visitor
Centre
Hardscrabble
Potato Bottom
Airport
Candlestick
Gear
In the spring and autumn expect
pleasant days and brisk, cool nights.
It is best to bring kit for both warm
and cool conditions. On your bike you
may find dressing in layers the best
option as it allows you to stay warm
during the cool mornings but stripdown when things start heating up
under the mid-day sun. A warm
sleeping bag is also advisable as is a
sturdy sleeping mat since the ground
is rarely soft.
Accommodation
The National Park Service requires
groups to stay in one of 20
developed campsites along the
White Rim Trail. Camping areas and
their distances along the trail are
listed on the National Park Service
web site (www.nps.gov/cany). Each
campsite will accommodate up to 15
people and three vehicles. The
National Park also has excellent
campgrounds located in other areas
of the park.
There is no roofed accommodation
along the White Rim.
When to go
Health
Known as a ‘high desert,’ with
elevations ranging from 3,700 to
7,200 feet above sea level,
Canyonlands experiences very hot
summers, cold winters and less than
ten inches of rain each year. Even on
a daily basis, temperatures may
fluctuate as much as 50 degrees.
Spring (March – May) and autumn
(Sept – Nov) are the best months for
cycling the White Rim. You may be
able to fry an egg on your helmet in
Dehydration and heat-related
illnesses can be avoided if proper
precautions are taken. Regular
application of sunscreen can help
protect you from the strong desert
sun. Don’t underestimate how much
you will need to drink while riding
this route. This is not a place to
skimp. Seven litres of fluid per
person per day is a good rough
estimate of how much will be
required, especially if you tackle the
Gooseberry
Murphy
Hogback
r
ive
oR
ad
lor
Co
r
74 www.atmagazine.co.uk July/August 2007
Matthew Kadey is a
Canadian-based freelance
writer and photographer. In
addition to Utah, he has also
taken cycling trips to
Ethiopia, Ireland, New
Zealand, Jordan, Syria,
Belize, Guatemala and
various regions in North
America. Matt believes that
points A and B might be
interesting, but it’s what’s
between them that are truly
remarkable. His photography
can be seen at
www.mattkadey.com
See more about Andrew at
www.atmagazine.co.uk
It is possible to cycle this trail
self-supported and can be a
memorable adventure.
However, in addition to trying
to secure a permit, one of the
biggest obstacles is
overcoming the lack of water
sources. You will have to carry
all your own water or ask that
a tour company carry some in
for you and then arrange
special drop-offs. If you can
sweet talk someone into
carrying your gear in a support
vehicle keep in mind that it
must be a 4x4 and the driver
needs to have experience with
off-road driving.
Salt Lake City International Airport is
the closest hub but it is still a four
hour drive to Moab. You can either
rent a car in Salt Lake City or use
Bighorn Express
(www.bighornexpress.com) which
runs daily shuttles from Salt Lake
City airport to Moab for $65 USD
each way. Flying into Las Vegas or
Denver is another option.
Canyonlands Field airport
(www.moabairport.com) is located
just outside Moab. It’s a small
airport but does offer service to Salt
Lake City International Aiport.
Canyonlands National Park Island in
the Sky Visitors’ Centre is 50kilometres from Moab. The White
Rim’s Shafer switchbacks start 2
kilometres from the visitors centre.
If you are cycling this trail selfsupported, there are shuttle
companies in Moab who will drop
you off and pick you up at trails end.
Coyote Shuttle
(www.coyoteshuttle.com) and Road
Runner Shuttle
(www.roadrunnershuttle.com) offer
transportation services from Moab.
They also whisk mountain bikers to
various trails in the vicinity of Moab.
Leave the skinny tires at home. This
is mountain bike country. Make sure
someone in the group is adept at
fixing a variety of bike problems.
There is no shortage of bike shops in
Moab. A good option is Poison
Spider Bicycles
(www.poisonspiderbicycles.com). A
viable option is to rent a bike once
you arrive in Moab. They quality of
rental bikes is top-notch.
ive
Who’s Writing?
DIY
Getting There
Bike
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unsuspecting deer.
The trail now follows the
watercourse with its fertile forest of
tamarisk. We spot old uranium
mines close to the track as rafters
let the Green River’s current guide
them south. Digging in under a
calescent sun, the end is now in
sight as we close in on the one last
challenge that is Mineral Bottom
road. Just as the White Rim began
with a big descent, so it must end
with a hefty ascent.
Grunting upwards, I come to the
conclusion that the White Rim is a
reminder that the bicycle is a
perfect machine for exploring
Mother Nature’s most impressive
creations. Diehard mountain bikers
might think about overlooking this
route for Moab’s steeper, gnarlier
trails, but looking down wordlessly
on this vast remote openness,
I’m sure of one thing. I never want
to leave. ■
Some riders will complete the 160kilometer loop from Moab in one
arduous day. A moderate push with
time to soak in this gift from Mother
Nature will let you get around the
trail in three to four days selfsupported.
Mineral Bottom
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sandstone. Sections are so narrow
that, despite being vertically
challenged, I can touch both walls at
the same time. A final testament to
the last desert storm is the claybottom pools which prevent our
further descent and turn my cycling
shoes into clods of mud. I spend a
good 15 minutes picking the clay out
of my cleats as I will need them fully
functional if I expect to pedal over
Hardscrabble Hill.
Shifting down to granny rings we
begin the climb. Slow and steady.
Through loose sand and over glazed
rock, we tackle one switchback at a
time. My leg muscles scream for
relief as I emerge huffing and puffing
at the 5,000 foot crest of
Hardscarbble Hill to a cluster of
cyclists resting their quivering legs
and snapping photos of the
seemingly misplaced verdant Green
River below. I’m all over Maggie’s
trail-mix like a mountain lion on an
Ride Time
the summer as you can expect many
days over 100 degrees with shade
being at a premium.
Gr
follow the trail back across the
outstretched, water-eroded shelf to
Murphy’s Hogback with a feeling that
you’re more than just an observer in
this giant land. Somehow you are
part of it all.
Responsibility comes with the
honour of mountain biking in one of
the country’s great national parks.
Commercial outfitters like Magpie
are subject to all-embracing
inspections from park rangers to
ensure there is little impact from
bipedal adventurers. We’re delighted
that Mike and Maggie have passed
their equipment, services and
environmental look-see so we can
spend nights like this at Candlestick
campground watching the satellites
wink across a star-saturated sky,
while Mike tells stories of past
mountain bike outings gone awry.
His account of an exposed, snowy
night among the Colorado peaks
makes for gripping listening.
As a cloudless black sky gives
way to displays of illumination on
distant rock formations, early risers
bear witness to the spectacle of the
sun’s rays bringing warmth to the
desert. With a morning repast of
French toast and strong coffee
energizing our muscles and spirits,
we quickly break down our final
camp in eager anticipation of getting
to one of the White Rim’s many
stop-and-gawk distractions.
Three bumpy kilometres from
camp is Holeman slot canyon.
Gleaming in the sun, this narrow
canyon is the outcome of years of
relentless wearing by flash floods.
Sliding down water-polished rock,
we lower ourselves into deeply
eroded notches as vertical cliffs
above reduce the sky to a narrow
ribbon of blue in a sea of red
Magpie Adventures (Maggie
Wilson and Mike Holmes)
(www.magpieadventures.com;
[email protected])
run exceptional 1 to 5 day
mountain bike trips along the
White Rim (up to $835 USD).
With at least 100 completed
loops, they know the route
better than anyone. Price
includes transportation to and
from the trail from Moab, all
food (most of which is organic),
camping accommodation and
use of the support truck. They
also run several other excellent
mountain bike tours in southern
Utah and northern Arizona.
Escape adventures
(www.escapeadventures.com)
and Rim Tours
(www.rimtours.com) also offer
guided trips along the White
Rim.
You can download the reservation
form at www.nps.gov/cany. Good
maps are available at the visitor
center and in bike shops located in
Moab.
White Crack
trail during the warmer months.
Strongly consider using fluids with
added sugar and electrolytes, such
as specialist sports drinks.
Other Rides
Southern Utah is bursting at the
seams with outstanding mountain
bike and road bike rides. This
includes the world famous Slickrock
Trail. www.utahmountainbiking.com
is an excellent resource for trail
information throughout the state.
Bicycle stores in Moab can also help
direct you to the sweetest rides. In
addition to Slickrock, Porcupine Rim,
Amasa Back and Flat Pass are
outstanding fat tire jaunts.
Roadies may want to take advantage
of the excellent Skinny Tire Festival
that occurs in March
(www.skinnytirefestival.com). Both
Arches and Canyonlands National
Parks offer excellent road riding
opportunities.
National Park, Arches, Bryce, Capital
Reef and Zion National Parks offer
plenty of opportunities for superb
hiking and road riding. More
information can be found at
www.nps.gov
Moab
Moab is a world-famous adventure
destination. And rightfully so. On its
doorstep are superb biking, hiking,
rock climbing, canyoning, and river
rafting.
For a list of accommodations,
mountain-bike tour operators and
other amenities in the Moab area
visit www.discovermoab.com
Cycling by Candlestick
Tower in Soda Springs Basin
National Parks
Southern Utah has the highest
concentration of national parks in
America. In addition to Canyonlands
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