Extra Cushy Square Pouf: Waverly World

Published on Sew4Home
Extra Cushy Square Pouf: Waverly World
Editor: Liz Johnson
Wednesday, 22 October 2014 1:00
A pouf is the ottoman's casual cousin. Where an ottoman is all about traditional structure and tautness, a pouf is laid back and
soft around the edges. Kind of like a sleek business suit versus your favorite comfy pair of sweats. We pushed the slouchy style
even farther, taking a cue from poufs we spotted at West Elm and Pottery Barn that were almost like a more like a square bean
bag (not to mention being insanely expensive!). That type of filler didn't seem very functional to us, and we think you'll like our
foam and batting solution, which allows the pouf to take on both sitting and footrest duties as well as being able to hold a tray
as a substitute table. As part of our Waverly World series, we were thrilled to work with this delicious 100% linen home décor
fabric called Lightfoot Garden in Cinnabar from the Waverly Williamsburg collection.
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We show you how to create a muslin insert from a block of foam wrapped in several layers of high-loft batting. If you'd prefer a
different structure, either more firm or even softer, we invite you to experiment with your own options: all foam, pellets, polyester
fiberfil or...? If you do choose another method, make sure to comment below; let us know what you used and how it worked out
for you. We always love to hear how Sew4Home visitors make our projects their own.
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Our thanks to our friends at Waverly for providing this amazing fabric. They recommend shopping for their many Waverly
collections at Jo-Ann Fabric. Not only does Jo-Ann's have one of the best selections, both in-store and online, right now many
of their featured Waverly fabrics are on sale at up to 50% off!
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As they come out with new designs and colors, Waverly makes sure customers who've purchased items from a few years ago
aren't abandoned. You'll always been able to find fabrics and accessories that complement your Waverly décor from recent
collections. The tradition remains, but you'll also find fresh takes on existing designs each season, as well as new ideas for
accenting it. It's one of the reasons Waverly customers are so loyal.
We invite you to follow Waverly on Instagram, Pinterest and Facebook.
Our pouf finishes at approximately 24" x 24" x 14".
Sewing Tools You Need
Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome 1600P-QC)
Zipper foot
Fabric and Other Supplies
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2 yards of medium to heavy-weight 54"+ linen or similar home decor fabric; we used 54" 100% linen Lightfoot Garden
Linen in Cinnabar from the Williamsburg collection by Waverly Fabrics - as mentioned above, Waverly
recommends shopping for their many Waverly collections at Jo-Ann Fabric.
NOTE: The yardage above allows extra to carefully fussy cut each panel, using - as we did - a bold directional motif.
1½ yards of 54"+ muslin or similar inexpensive cotton for the interior lining cube; we used 90" white muslin
ONE approximately 72" zipper or Zipper by the Yard cut to fit; we used Zipper by the Yard – you could also use
a sleeping bag zipper
ONE 21" x 21" x 12" foam block for interior structure; we used a standard high-density upholstery foam
NOTE: As you'll see in our images below, we made our cube from two 4" blocks, one 3" block and one 1" block - items
on hand at our local "foam dude" and glued together with a standard fabric spray glue. If you don't have a local foam
dude, this might be a good time to check out the 3" x 36" and 5" x 36" slabs of Fairfield Project Foam .
4 yards of 54"+ high loft polyester batting; look for the thickest batting possible – ours was approximately ½" –
something similar to Quilter's Dream Puff Batting would work well
NOTE: Batting is available both off the bolt and pre-packaged in a great variety of densities and widths. The yardage
shown above is the minimum width required to wrap the foam as described below. As mentioned, you want a super lofty
polyester batting.
All purpose thread to match fabric
See-through ruler
Measuring tape
Fabric pen or pencil
Seam gauge
Seam ripper
Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
Iron and ironing board
Straight pins
T-pins (optional)
Hand sewing needle
Getting Started
1. From the exterior fabric ( Waverly Williamsburg Lightfoot Garden Linen in Cinnabar in our sample), carefully fussy cut
the following (keep track of the direction of the motif):
TWO 25" x 25" squares for the top and bottom
FOUR 25" wide x 16" high rectangles for the sides
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NOTE: As we mentioned above, big and bold motifs are best for this pretty pouf, so take the extra time to do a nice fussy
cut for each square, centering your design(s). Each panel must be cut separately; to create the proper cube shape, you
need the side seams.
2. From the muslin, cut the following:
TWO 25" x 25" squares for the top and bottom
FOUR 25" wide x 15" high rectangles for the sides
At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board
Wrap the foam cube
1. Cut a 21" x 45" piece of batting. Wrap it up the side, across the top, and down the opposite side of the foam cube. There
is no batting on the bottom of the cube.
2. Cut a second piece of batting, making it the loft height x2 wider and the loft height x1 longer. This is to account for
wrapping over the first layer. Our second piece of batting was cut 22" (½" loft x 2) x 45-1/2" (½" loft x 1).
3. Wrap this second piece of batting up and over the cube, covering the opposite sides.
4. We repeated this layering, adding extra inches to our cuts as needed, to create double layers of batting on each side and
four layers on the top.
5. Finally, measure your "marshmallow" – ours now measured approximately 50" up and over. We cut ONE 50" x 50"
square.
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6. Lay this final square blanket over the entire top of the cube, wrapping it down the sides, like a piece of fondant over a
cake. Pinch and fold in the batting at each corner. Trim away the excess batting to create a smooth corner.
NOTE: We found the foam and batting easily stuck to itself as we layered. We didn't need anything else to hold our
layers in place while we wrapped. If you have trouble with your marshmallow holding its shape, you could use a light
fabric adhesive spray between layers.
7. Set the finished marshmallow of foam and batting aside.
Create the muslin lining
1. Find the four 15" high side pieces of muslin.
2. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the four pieces together along the 15" sides to create a loop. Start and stop each
side seam ½" in.
3. Find the two 25" x 25" top and bottom squares.
4. Set one square into the side loop, aligning the corners of the square with the seams of the loop. The ½" free at the top of
each side seam allows you to easily set each corner in place.
5. Pin in place all around. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch in place. Starting in the middle of one side, stitch into the
corner, stop with the needle in the down position and pivot, then stitch into the next corner. Repeat to sew all the way
around.
6. On the remaining bottom panel, stitch it in place along just ONE side.
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7. Turn the lining right side out and slip it over the foam and batting marshmallow.
8. Flip over the interior cube. Fold in the raw edges of the three un-sewn sides so they are flush with sewn seam. Pin in
place all around.
9. Hand stitch closed along all three sides.
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10. Set aside the finished interior cube.
Create the exterior side panels, attaching the first half of zipper
1. Find three of the four 16" side panels.
2. Keeping track of the motif direction of each panel, pin the three panels together end-to-end to create one long, flat strip.
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3. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the three panels together. Start each of the three seams ½" from the top, but
stitch all the way to the bottom.
4. Press the seam allowances open and flat.
5. Find the long zipper. Place it right side together with the bottom raw edge of the three sewn panels. The bottom edge of
the zipper's insertion tape should be flush with the bottom raw edge of the fabric. The zipper should extend end to end
across the panels.
6. Attach a Zipper foot, stitch the zipper in place along its entire length.
7. Run your seam as close to the zipper teeth as possible.
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8. Fold the zipper along the seam line so the zipper teeth are now facing right side out and the remaining raw edge of the
zipper's insertion tape extends along the bottom.
9. Roll down the edge of the fabric along the seam until the folded edge of the fabric just covers the zipper's teeth. Press in
place. Then pin in place.
10. Still using a Zipper foot, topstitch along the length of the zipper to secure this "zipper flap."
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11. Find the remaining un-sewn side panel. Pin this panel in place between the raw 16" edges of the sewn panel. Align the
top edges of the panels. The bottom edge of the last panel will extend below the zipper. Pin in place.
12. As with the other seams, start your stitching ½" in from the top. You are still using a ½" seam allowance.
13. Stitch the remaining two seams.
14. As mentioned above, the bottom edge of the fourth panel will extend below the zippered panels a bit.
15. Trim this bottom edge flush with the zipper tape.
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Insert the exterior base, attaching the second half of the zipper
1. Find the 25" x 25" base square.
2. Find the exterior loop. Along the zipper's insertion tape, mark a guide line at each of the three seams.
3. With the zipper closed, set the base square into place, right sides together with the side loop. Pin in place along the one
side without a zipper and stitch corner to corner, using a ½" seam allowance.
4. Open the zipper and pin the remain three sides of the panel in place against just the zipper tape. Remember to align the
corners of the panel with the marks on the zipper tape tape. Stitch into the corner, stop at the mark with your needle in the
down position.
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5. Curve the zipper around the corner. Do not clip into the corner , just curve around with the zipper. You will need to stitch
slowly, easing the fabric at the corner. This is definitely a bit of a tricky part, but for the zipper to curve properly to match
the lap of the first half, it is important to create an unbroken curve. Remember, do-overs are okay. Always stop with the
needle in the down position so your layers are held in place, and re-adjust as needed.
6. When the base panel is stitched in place all around, with the zipper still open, turn the cover right side out through the
open top end. Fold the zipper tape to the wrong side of the fabric so just the zipper teeth are exposed along the three
sides.
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7. At this point, your zipper is technically in place. However, we added one additional step because we were working with
linen, which loves to ravel. Still using a Zipper foot, we topstitched all along the edge of the zipper. This keeps the linen
nice and flat against the zipper and provides a double line of stitching that will stop any raveling in its tracks. This step is
optional, but recommended.
8. The base panel is now in place.
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Insert the exterior top panel
1. With the cover wrong side out, open the zipper all the way.
2. Find the remaining 25" x 25" top panel, set it down into the open top of the side panel loop. As with the muslin box above,
there is ½" free at the top of each side seam which will make it easy to set each corner of the top panel into place.
3. Pin the top panel in place around all four sides.
4. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch around all four sides, pivoting at the "V point" of each corner.
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5. Turn the completed cover right side out through the open bottom zipper. Press well.
6. Insert the interior cube and zip closed.
Contributors
Project Concept: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Kathy Andrews, What Sew Ever
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Source URL: http://www.sew4home.com/projects/furniture-covers/extra-cushy-square-pouf-waverly-world
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