WEEKEND iN GENoa

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WEEKEND iN GENoa
WEEKEND in GENoa
suggestions and addresses to discover the city
en
from the left:
Porto Antico Old Port,
Aquarium,
Boccadasse
below:
via Garibaldi
GENOA: DON’T MISS IT
A city of art and capital of a
rich and powerful Maritime
Republic, Genoa is full of
surprises: it is packed with
action, plenty of restaurants
and bars offering fine cuisine
and wine and also offers great
music and theatres. Discovering
Genoa is a unique experience.
GUIDED TOUR OF GENOA
Take a guided tour of the old town,
some of the Palazzi dei Rolli and
the Strada Nuova museums every
weekend. Buy a ticket online or
contact our Tourist Information
Centres.
DO YOU WANT A GUIDED TOUR
OF GENOA?
Visit our website for a list of tour
guides and contact them directly to
build your personal tour.
www.visitgenoa.it
www.visita-genova.it
2
Strada Nuovissima, now known as Via
Garibaldi and Via Cairoli.
A stroll around the “Rolli”
Not all Italian cities can boast a site
listed on the “Golden Register” of the
UNESCO World Heritage list: Genoa
can. The very first example of “public
lodging” in Europe, the Palazzi dei
Rolli, forty-two buildings dating from
the 16th and 17th centuries and owned
by noble families of the Republic,
were used as real 4 and 5 star hotels to
accommodate Kings, Princes, Bishops
and Ambassadors on State visits. This
proved to be both a great honour and a
great burden for the selected families.
The beautiful palaces can be admired
while strolling along the so-called
“New Streets”, Strada Nuova and
The Aquarium
Tickle a ray fish or feel the flutter of a
hummingbird’s wings. All this and more
at Genoa Aquarium, one of the most
popular attractions in Italy with over a
million tickets sold each year. Visiting
the aquarium is like taking an exciting
journey across the vast ocean.
A unique experience discovering an
enchanting world, teeming with life.
Seals, dolphins, penguins, sharks and
fish of all shapes and colours will keep
you company as you discover
the marine world.
(Aquarium, Bigo and Biosphere
information Ph. +39 010 23 456 78;
reservations Ph. +39 010 23 456 66)
Boccadasse fishing village
Favoured by sweethearts and incurable
romantics now as always.
Boccadasse is an ancient seaside
village that, as the story goes, was
founded by sailors shipwrecked in the
pretty bay just outside the town centre.
Take a walk along Corso Italia, the city
promenade, hire a bike or even better,
get on some roller skates and step right
into this living postcard.
Things to see
THE STRADA NUOVA MUSEUMS
Via Garibaldi is home to an original
museum devoted to antique art and
connecting three noteworthy noble
palaces that were part of the Palazzi
dei Rolli System: Palazzo Rosso (17th
century home to the Brignole Sale
family), Palazzo Bianco (prestigious
art gallery from the 16th to the 18th
centuries) and Palazzo Doria Tursi
(City Hall). Even if you haven’t got
much time, try not to miss the second
main floor of Palazzo Rosso where you
can find frescoes and works by Van
Dyck, Guercino, Veronesi; remember
to take the lift to the top floor: you’ll
be stunned by the breathtaking view
from the rooftop.
In Palazzo Bianco you will find a
large collection by Flemish painters;
you can also take a break in the
18th century gardens that connect
it to Palazzo Tursi, where you can
admire Canova’s Magdalene Penitent
plus Paganini’s violin, known as the
“Cannon” due to its powerful sound.
(Information:
Ph. +39 010 55 721 93 - 010 55 749 72
[email protected])
3
from the left:
Bigo and Piazza
delle Feste,
San Lorenzo
Cathedral
GENOA IN A DAY
The birthplace of Christopher
Columbus is just waiting to
be discovered. Charming and
captivating even if you only
have one day to spare.
and pick-up. To get oriented we
suggest a ride on the Bigo panoramic
lift - the whole city will be laid out
below you and you’ll get a great bird’seye view over the waterfront designed
by the renowned, Genoese architect,
Renzo Piano. Next to the Aquarium
is the big Biosphere that houses a
rainforest ecosystem. Along the Molo
Vecchio, kids can have lots of fun at the
Città dei Bambini (Ph. +39 010 23 456
35), an educational and play space that
Via BANCHI
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INFORMATION
CAVOUR
M
u
ra
Route: 1.5 km
M
AL
AP
Time: 3-4 hours,
AGdepending
A
on the museums and shops youC
visit along the way
Leaving from: Porto Antico Old Port, Piazza Caricamento
Arriving in: Piazza San Donato
(100 m from Piazza Matteotti)
4
LU C
Via
de
La Città
dei Bambini
Cotone
Congressi
IA
IG L
Via
2
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A PR
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Piazza
delle FESTE Piazza
CARICAMENTO
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Po r t o
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XXV
The Porto Antico - Old Port
The Old Port is the perfect starting
point for a discovery tour of the city: at
walking distance from Principe railway
station, it also has car parks (paid) and a
bus terminal for passenger drop-off
1
Piazza
DANTE
offers plenty of gripping experiences;
then there is the magical world of the
Luzzati Museum at Porta Siberia
(Ph. +39 010 2530328). Just a short walk
away, young and old will be fascinated
by the Pirate Vessel that was built
for Roman Polanski’s film “Pirates”,
which you can visit everyday, weather
permitting (Ph. +39 010 25 30 328).
At the darsena you will find the Galata
Sea Museum, the Nazario Sauro
submarine and a little further along, the
Theatre-Museum of the Commenda
(Ph. +39 010 23 45 655).
2 Palazzo San Giorgio
Before plunging into the Old Town the biggest in Europe - stop for a few
minutes in front of Palazzo San Giorgio
to admire the magnificent fresco of
Saint George slaying the dragon that
adorns the façade. The building, in
Piazza Caricamento, is a fine example
of medieval architecture and was home
to the very first European bank: who
else could have invented the banking
system if not the money-wise Genoese?
San Lorenzo Cathedral
You can walk up to the Cathedral along
the elegant Via San Lorenzo or you can
cut across Piazza Banchi and up along
a small laneway called Via Canneto il
Curto (you’ll be tempted by the mouthwatering fragrance of freshly baked
3
focaccia along the way). This will take
you straight onto Via San Lorenzo and
the Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral that
houses the Museo del Tesoro (Museum
of Treasures), with many sumptuous
religious objects, including the Sacro
Catino, which many believe to be the
true Holy Grail.
Things to do
WHALE WATCH LIGURIA
This tour gives you the opportunity
to take part in the research and
observation of the eight cetacean
species living in the International
Sanctuary of Mar Ligure; it leaves
from Genoa and lasts about 5 hours.
A biologist from the Aquarium is
always on board. Children up to 4 free.
Reservation required on
Ph. +39 010 265712 - +39 010 256775
or via mail to
[email protected];
www.whalewatchliguria.it.
Things to eat
TRENETTE WITH PESTO
For a light, appetising lunch, why not
stop at one of the many restaurants in
the Old Port for a plate of trenette pasta
with pesto: you’ll never want for pesto
in Genoa! Or have fun choosing from
the wide selection of sandwich fillings in
one of the tiny shops in Sottoripa, right
behind Palazzo San Giorgio.
5
from the left:
Palazzo Ducale,
House of
Columbus,
Mercato Orientale
Things to do
A STROLL AROUND
THE city CENTRE
Most of the old shops are located in
the city centre. Don’t forget to stop
by one of the pastry and
confectionery shops in and around
Via Soziglia. The exclusive rose petal
jam, candied fruit and apple puree
are all a must.
Things to eat
FARINATA, FRISCEU
Farinata is one of Liguria’s
gastronomic symbols and should be
eaten piping hot, straight out of the
oven. Originally a poor man’s dish
made from chickpea flour, farinata is
the modern-day regional “fast
food”. If you fancy being a real
Genoese, get your farinata in one of
the “sciamadde” in Sottoripa, the
medieval lane with porticoes
opposite the Aquarium. Here you
can also sample the truly
Genoese “frisceu”, the local fried
battered specialty filled with herbs
and whitebait, when in season.
FOCACCIA
If you’re on the run even at
lunchtime, why not try the Genoese
speciality “focaccia”, preferably
hot, which is sold in all bakeries.
6
4 Palazzo Ducale
Government seat of the Republic for
centuries, it is now the cultural hub of
Genoa. The splendid neoclassic façade
dominates Piazza Matteotti, while the
side of the building faces onto Piazza
De Ferrari with its large fountain, a
popular evening meeting spot for the
city’s youth. This is the heart of the city,
between the majestic Carlo Felice
Opera House and the Chiesa del
Gesù. Why not follow your visit to one
of the many exhibitions in the Palazzo
with a tasty brunch in one of its bars or
an aperitif with added buffet. You can
also visit the Grimaldina Tower and the
ancient prisons - open throughout the
year for individual visits, and for group
tours, by reservation
(Ph. +39 010 55 74 064/065).
weekends and holidays, mornings and
afternoons.
Nearby, in Vico Gattamora, the famous
but “cursed” violinist, Niccolò Paganini
was born; it is said that his “devil’s
quaver” can still be heard echoing
through the dark lanes nearby….
The birthplace
of Christopher Columbus
When you think of Genoa you
automatically think of Columbus.
Although there is still a great debate
as to his origins, the Genoese have
no doubts: the man who discovered
America was born in this city. In Piazza
Dante, just behind Porta Soprana, his
original house was rebuilt between
the late 17th century and the early 18th
6
century after it was bombed by the Sun
King Louis XIV of France in 1684.
Piazza delle Erbe
Piazza delle Erbe is the heart of the
Old Town and is now home to bars,
restaurants
and handicraft shops.
Starting from the
cocktail hour and
going on all
night (especially
on weekends),
7
5 Scared of ghosts?
Obviously medieval from its still
intact architecture, Porta Soprana
can be seen not far from the House
of Columbus. Both can be visited on
Things to see
Mercato Orientale
One of the most intriguing places to
shop in town, this market has been
housed in the former cloister of the
18th century convent of the
Consolazione since 1889. The smells
and exotic products here - as in
every respectable port town - have
enchanted many foreign journalists
who added the market to their
tourist guides.
Things to do
GENOA BY BOAT
A city that is so tied to the sea really
needs to be seen from the water.
Boats set out from the Old Port every
day to tour the harbour (sea
conditions permitting). Boats also
leave from the wharfs in the Old Port
to go to Camogli, San Fruttuoso,
Portofino and the Cinque Terre (from
Spring until the end of Summer).
Ph. +39 010 26 57 12 Liguria ViaMare
- +39 0185 77 20 91 Golfo Paradiso.
Things to eat
TASTE TEMPTATIONS
If you are fond of all things sweet
than you must try the delicious
sacripantina cake or, at
Christmastime, the pandolce, a
local candied-fruit filled cake you
can find in all the best pastry shops.
7
from the left:
Piazza delle Erbe the nightlife,
Campo Pisano,
San Donato
nightlife lovers gather here. A mixed
crowd that share the desire to enjoy
themselves at the pavement cafés and
drinking and chatting in front of shops
and restaurants.
Church of San Donato
This splendid thousand-year old plus
building houses two masterpieces – the
triptych by Joos van Cleeve Adoration
of the Kings and Jean De Troy’s
Madonna, known as the painting of the
soul.
You can find it buried deep in the Old
Town, a short distance from Via San
Bernardo and Via dei Giustiniani where
new and old cocktail bars have sprung
up next to old eateries.
8
A BRIEF DETOUR
If you feel up to exploring we suggest
getting off the beaten track and
heading into the lesser known areas.
Sant’Agostino
Walk up the Stradone Sant’Agostino, a
street that takes you to Piazza Sarzano.
The Sant’Agostino convent complex
here was destroyed by bombs during
World War II and forgotten for decades,
but now it has been fully restored and
can be seen in all its splendour.
The convent and cloisters have been
converted into a museum; the gothic
church is an auditorium and the San
Silvestro convent is now the Faculty of
Architecture, a place of great beauty
with delightful hanging gardens.
halfway down you will find a walkway
that takes you to lower Campo Pisano.
This area was developed in the 15th
century with tall houses painted in the
colourful Ligurian style and cobbled
lanes with white and black marble.
It is a very picturesque corner of
the city, although certainly not
very appreciated by the original
dwellers from Pisa who, defeated
by the Genoese at the battle of
Meloria, were gathered and imprisoned
in this same square.
A
USEFUL NUMBERS
Porto Antico
Ph. +39 010 24 857 10 - 750
Palazzo San Giorgio
Ph. +39 010 24 126 25
Museo del Tesoro di San Lorenzo
Ph. +39 010 24 718 31
Museo Diocesano
Ph. +39 010 25 412 50
Palazzo Ducale
Ph. +39 010 55 740 04
Porta Soprana & House of Columbus
Ph. +39 010 25 167 14
Sant’Agostino Museum
Ph. +39 010 25 112 63
Santa Maria di Castello
Ph. +39 010 25 495 11
8
Campo Pisano
Enter the lane “Vico sotto le Murette”
on the other side of the square in front
of Stradone Sant’Agostino. About
B
Santa Maria di Castello
Take a short walk along Via Mura delle
Grazie, cross Piazza San Giacomo della
Marina and you will run into Santa Maria
di Castello, perhaps the most important
Romanesque church in Genoa, built in
the first quarter of
the 12th century.
C
The Annunciation
by Giusto di
Ravensburg
can be
seen in the
loggia.
Things to do
TIME FOR A DRINK
The aperitif ritual is taken very
seriously here; it is a way of relaxing
after a hard day’s work or
study and a great way
to start the evening off
among friends.
It’s easy to get the bug,
with all the bars and pubs in the
city that reflect this tradition. From
traditional cocktail bars to hightech pubs on both sides of
town, everywhere you go you
will find a wide choice of drinks
and snacks that are sometimes a
great substitute for dinner.
LET’S GO SHOPPING
Every city has a shopping district…
Genoa has more than one.
While Via Roma is home to the
exclusive boutiques and Via Luccoli
hosts the best shopping in the Old
Town lanes, Via XX Settembre - the
High Street - has the widest variety
of shops. This street is partly
covered by porticoes on both
sides, also making it a great
“haven” on rainy days.
9
from the left:
Diocesan Museum,
Cloister
of San Matteo,
Galleria Mazzini
A WEEKEND IN GENOA
Genoa is an aristocratic city with
antique buildings as well as a
lively city with many laneways.
On the other hand, this city
also looks out to sea and is full
of many beautiful memorial
parks. When you think about
it, there’s so much to choose
from, you really need to stay
on a bit to take it all in. Also
because Genoa, thanks to its
wonderfully mild climate, is
always so much warmer than
other northern Italian towns,
making it appealing to tourists.
In all seasons.
RARI
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Piazza
BANDIERA
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Piazza
PICCAPIETRA
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LUN
Piazza
CORVETTO
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5
INFORMATION
Route: 2.5 km
Time: 4-5 hours, depending
Piazza
4
ico
on the museums and
the Piazza CARICAMENTO Via BANCHI
nt
delle FESTE
shops you visit on the way
Leaving from: Piazza Corvetto
Via
S.LO
REN
ZO
V ia
CAN
Arriving in: Corso Dogali
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10
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7
F u n ic
A
V ia
EN
Spianata di
Castelletto
A
Via C
RS
Via CAFF ARO
Piazza della
NUNZIATA
Largo ZECCA
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e di
S. A
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BAL
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Via
RÈ
V ia X
XV A P
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8
di P
Via BERT
ANI
Via B. DE FER
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Funicola
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Via
V i a LO M E LLI N I
9
a/Righi
10
Piazza
DE FERRARI
Vi a E. VE
RN
A ZZ A
1 Galleria Mazzini
Since the early 1900s this gallery has been
a meeting place for art and literature.
At Christmastime and other periods, it
hosts antiques and old book markets and
a careful look often reaveals a first edition
and other connoisseur gems.
2 From the sacred to the secular
Not many people know that Blue Jeans
got their name from “Genoa Blue”,
the fabric first used for ships’ sails and
then, because it was so hard-wearing,
for work clothes. The Museo Diocesano
(Diocesan Museum) houses the Teli della
Passione, a series of fine blue cloths from
the 16th century that could be considered
the forerunners of modern-day denim.
3 Piazza San Matteo
Time seems to stand still in this corner of
Genoese history. Historically, this square
has always symbolised the might of one
of Genoa’s most important families: the
Dorias. Legend has it that the ghost of
the well known leader Andrea Doria still
hangs around the nearby inns, toasting
every drink by banging his sword on the
marble counter. Not so far from here, you
can admire the Basilica of S. Maria delle
Vigne with its Neoclassical façade and its
Romanesque bell tower.
(liguriastyle.it Ph. +39 010 26 10 36).
Things to see
THE OLD BARBER SHOP
This small barber shop, in Art Déco
style, still has its original white tiles and
coloured glass on the walls and ceiling.
You can find it a short distance from the
Cathedral, in Vico Caprettari.
Things to do
SHOPPING IN VIA
DELLA MADDALENA
This street has retained its role as local
Kasbah.
The latest arrivals are the South
American shops, bringing the essence
of Sao Paulo and Caracas to the town
centre. They have added their own
flavours to the existing blend of kebabs
and rare spices.
Things to eat
GENOESE ICE-CREAM
Not everyone knows that a semi-frozen
ice-cream called “panera” was created
in Genoa over 150 years ago. It can still
be found today in the oldest ice-cream
parlours. At first, it might taste like a
regular coffee ice-cream but actually it
is a semi-frozen dessert so the texture is
creamier and a totally different taste and
temperature.
11
from the left:
Galleria
degli Specchi
Palazzo Reale,
D’Albertis Castle,
Porta dei Vacca
4 Piazza Banchi
In the past, merchants and traders used
to do business in the Loggia della
Mercanzia (Merchants’ Lodge), located
in this square and now a multipurpose
facility for cultural events. The San Pietro
della Porta church is quite curious,
actually built on a plot housing shops
because of the rent these generated.
5 Via San Luca
Halfway along this very busy street
bursting with shops, you will find
directions to the Palazzo Spinola
National Gallery, an old Genoese
residence with an art gallery that houses
works by Antonello da Messina, Joos
van Cleeve, Anton Van Dyck and
Peter Paul Rubens.
Things to do
AN UPWARD CITY
Genoa is built on a hillside, making
it quite interesting to get around,
even on public transport. Aerial
walkways, cable cars and lifts have
all been installed to make the climb
a little easier and help you get right
up to the top. The Castelletto lift is
one of the most famous and takes
you to the viewpoint of Belvedere
Montaldo.
6 Via del Campo
Just behind Via San Luca and Piazza
Fossatello you can find Via del Campo,
made famous in Fabrizio De Andrè’s
song. All the façades along this long,
narrow lane - “caruggio” in the local
dialect - have been restored to their
former glory. In Piazza Vacchero, halfway
along the lane, a column declaring infamy
was erected in memory of the site where
Giulio Cesare Vacchero was beheaded
after being accused of conspiring against
the Republic of Genoa.
USEFUL NUMBERS
Palazzo Spinola National Gallery
Ph. +39 010 27 053 00
Museum of Palazzo Reale
Ph. +39 010 27 102 36
Castello D’Albertis
Ph. +39 010 27 238 20 - 464
12
7 Porta dei Vacca
The gate was built between 1155 and
1159 as part of the third ring of walls
in the city defence system, offering
protection against attacks by Emperor
Federico Barbarossa. For a long time it
was used as a prison and was the tragic
scene of many executions.
8 Palazzo Reale
Walk up Via delle Fontane and enter Via
Balbi, home to many university faculties.
The palace at number 10 is a real gem.
In 1822, the building was sold out to
the Savoy family who made it their
royal residence. The Galleria degli
Specchi (Mirror Gallery) is splendid as its
Pinacoteca (Picture Gallery) with works
by Van Dyck, Guercino and Strozzi.
As you leave the palace, you come
across the small square of Santa Brigida
- take a few moments to look at the
“trogoli”, the old wash troughs originally
used by the women for their laundry.
A one-of-a-kind lift
At the top of Via Balbi, to the right, is
the entrance to the Montegalletto lift,
which takes you straight up to Castello
D’Albertis. It is the only lift in the
world that travels both horizontally and
vertically. Try it out.
9
10 Castello D’Albertis
This striking, neo-gothic style castle
offers a breathtaking view of the city.
Here you will find the ethnographic,
archaeological and maritime collections
gathered by Captain D’Albertis on his
journeys to America, Africa, Oceania
and Asia.
Things to do
A DROP OF “VINTAGE”
Drink some refreshing water from the
fountain in Campetto, where in the
past the town water carriers filled the
jars they carried on their heads. You
can see another beautiful fountain in
Piazza delle Erbe, carved in 1697 by
Domenico Parodi, featuring an angel
and dolphins, or the one in Piazza
Sarzano, which was completed in
the 1800s with the head of Janus
who, according to legend, founded
the city.
Things to see
THE LIGHTHOUSE
AND ITS PARK
The Lanterna (Lighthouse) is a must
for anyone interested in the city’s
soul. A museum was created within
the fortified walls surrounding the
lighthouse when the whole area
was restructured. The area and
the Lighthouse Museum can be
reached on foot along Promenade
that starts at Via Milano near the
Ferry Terminal shopping centre.
The Lighthouse and the Museum
(single ticket) can be visited on
weekends and holidays from 10 am
to 6 pm (in summer to 7 pm), or by
reservation (Ph. +39 010 91 00 01).
13
from the left:
view from
Castelletto,
Villa Durazzo
Pallavicini
GENOA OUTDOORS
A romantic walk along the avenues
With its sea bus connection, the
Navebus, the seaside village of Pegli
is now only 30 minutes from the Old
Port (sea conditions permitting). Pegli is
home to the Durazzo Pallavicini Villa,
one of its kind in Europe with a unique
theatrical aura. Built in the mid-1800s
by Michele Canzio, the park was
designed as the setting for a
philosophical/fairytale play as
a perfect reflection of the ideas
of literary romanticism. Visitors
marvel at the incredibly beautiful
1
USEFUL NUMBERS
Wolfson Collection
Ph. +39 010 32 313 29
G.A.M. Ph. +39 010 37 260 25
Raccolte Frugone Museum
Ph. +39 010 32 23 96
Luxoro Museum
Ph. +39 010 32 26 73
Museum of Ligurian Archeology
Ph. +39 010 69 810 48
Villa Croce Museum
Ph. +39 010 58 00 69 - 010 58 57 72
14
view of the lake with its famous
pagoda and Chinese bridge. The villa
is home to the Museum of Ligurian
Archeology.
Villa Croce
The Museo di Arte Contemporanea
(Contemporary Art Museum) has been
set up since 1985
inside Villa Croce,
a 19th century
building formerly
owned by the
Croce family and
now belonging to
the Municipality
of Genoa. The
Museum holds
over 3000 pieces
from different
collections and
works from
the Italian and
international
abstract schools.
The villa hosts many interesting
contemporary art exhibitions.
2
Art under the sky
The memorial cemetery of Staglieno
3
is one of the largest and most visited
cemeteries in Europe. It is located in the
Val Bisagno area, 200 metres from the
Genoa Est motorway exit.
The city’s most famous sons and
daughters are buried here - Giuseppe
Mazzini, one of Italy’s founding fathers;
Michele Novaro, composer of the
national anthem; Gilberto Govi, actor;
Fabrizio De André, the singer-songwriter
and Oscar Wilde’s wife, Constance
Lloyd. To find out about weekend
guided tours phone +39 010 55 76 874 010 55 76 909; +39 010 87 01 84/5
Parks and squirrels
At the eastern end of the city, towards the
Riviera, Nervi and its parks - the Gropallo,
Serra and Grimaldi villas - can be found.
Take along a bag of nuts and you’ll
soon make friends with the real park
dwellers: the squirrels. Inside the park
is the Wolfson Collection, the Galleria
d’Arte Moderna (Modern Art Gallery) in
the Serra Villa, the Raccolte Frugone in
the Grimaldi Fassio Villa and the Luxoro
Museum. Along the seafront promenade
dedicated to Anita Garibaldi, you’ll
find lots of little bars and pubs that are
open almost all night. For ice-cream
connoisseurs, a stop at the Porticciolo,
Nervi’s tiny harbour, is a must.
4
Things to do
THE CASELLA RAILWAY
An old train - a living piece of
railway history - travels along a
single-gauge track from Piazza
Manin, clinging to the hillsides
and, at a slope of 45‰, reaches the
heart of the Apennine Hills in 55
minutes. (Ph. 800 08 53 11 www.ferroviagenovacasella.it).
Things to eat
FOCACCIA AL FORMAGGIO
You can’t say you’ve been to Liguria
without tasting the famous focaccia
al formaggio from Recco. The
inhabitants of Recco will protest
but you can find a pretty authentic
version in Genoa as well. Enjoy
a slice on the go or comfortably
seated in one of the many pizzerias.
CAPPON MAGRO
Delicious, appetising cold dish - an
elaborate recipe in a pyramid shape
with lots of layers - involving a dry
biscuit base dressed with garlic,
vinegar and salt, firm fish, boiled
vegetables, hardboiled eggs, plus
artichokes, tuna, prawns, capers and
olives to garnish. The whole creation
is then coated in a green parsley
sauce and finished, at the top of the
pyramid, with a lobster! You can buy
it in many delis.
15
from the left:
Nightlife,
Teatro
della Tosse
below:
Teatro
Carlo Felice
GENOA NIGHT & DAY
All gloom and doom: Genoa
used to be like that but now
things have really changed.
If you’re looking for pubs, wine
bars, restaurants and clubs with
live music, you’ve come to the
right place. But it also offers
cultural and classic alternatives:
theatres, major concerts,
jazz, sporting events. Plus
the festivals: science, poetry,
16
multiethnic music as well as
large exhibitions like the Boat
Show.
OUT ON THE TOWN
In the city centre…
The rebirth of Genoa, which began in
the 1990s, also spilled over into evening
entertainment. Genoa is literally
transformed when its nightlife begins.
If you like pubbing and clubbing,
Genoa offers a great many possibilities.
In the Old Town, between Piazza delle
Erbe, Via San Bernardo and the Old
Port, there are countless bars and
restaurants where you can catch a band,
try acting, laugh at the cabaret (a local
specialty) or simply meet people.
And there is no dearth of fashionable
bars or old pubs with wooden tables
where you can try lots of different
beers. The best nights are, as usual,
Fridays and Saturdays.
Further afield…
You’ll find more nightlife in Nervi, along
the promenade and the harbour, in
Boccadasse and along Corso Italia,
the seafront boulevard. The Fiumara
entertainment complex is another
alternative, developed on the site of an
old industrial area. Throughout the year,
special events also transform the city’s
austere historical buildings. The two
colourful nights: the White Night and
the Pink Night.
For clubbers, there are plenty of discos
to choose from - mainly in the eastern
part of the city between Corso Italia
and the Sturla, Quarto and Nervi areas.
THEATRES
Genoa is a thespian city.
There are at least a dozen theatres
that are always open. The most
important is the Carlo Felice
Opera House, which offers a long
opera, classical music and ballet
season. Prose and classical theatre
is performed by the Stabile di
Genova in its two venues - Corte
and Duse - catering to more
refined tastes, while the Politeama
Genovese hosts the big names of
prose and comedy. There are also
a number of underground venues,
where the younger generation of
theatre companies have carved out
their own niche. The Teatro della
Tosse, the Albatros, the Cargo,
the Teatro Hops and the
Archivolto are the most wellknown, as well as being
benchmarks for the local cultural
scene. The new kid on the block is
the Teatro della Gioventù in Via
Cesarea. For aficionados of
musicals and major concerts, the
105 Stadium is the place to be; it
is located in the Fiumara
entertainment complex on the
western side of the city.
17
from the left:
Boat Show,
concert
at the Old Port,
Festival
della Scienza
Things to see
THE BOAT SHOW
Usually held in the second week
of October, the Boat Show is
one of Genoa’s most important
international events.
It is held inside the Fiera di Genova,
Genoa’s large exhibition centre
located in the Foce area, and the
main attractions are the “Queens
of the Seas”: over two thousand
vessels, including sailing and motor
boats, from tenders to large yachts
over 40 metres long. Exhibitors
come here from all over the world.
Festival della Scienza
To add some cheer to Autumn,
Genoa also hosts the Science
Festival, held in the second half of
October in many different locations
throughout the city centre and
suburbs. Science and technology
put on a unique show and the city
is filled with youngsters.
Movies
In the past, Genoa has been used
as a film set and has returned to the
limelight again in recent years thanks
to its Film Commission that strives
to attract productions to the region,
providing assistance during filming.
The city has been the backdrop for
many advertisements, and a number
of famous Italian directors (like Carlo
Mazzacurati and Silvio Soldini) have
shot films here.
Summertime in Genoa
During summer, Genoa holds lots of
outdoor concerts. The central point
for music and cabaret is the Old Port,
where some of the best jazz, rock and
pop concerts are held. June and July
are the climax, while theatre takes
centre stage in Piazza San Matteo, in
August.
In June, Genoa becomes the capital
of poetry with its International Poetry
Festival that lasts for two weeks and is
held in Palazzo Ducale.
Food and drink
The food is great in Genoa and there
is something to suit all budgets. This
is thanks to the city’s gastronomic
heritage, which combines locally
18
grown produce with seafood. The
best eateries are definitely found in
the Old Town, but also in the Via XX
Settembre area and particularly in the
Foce district where some of the finest
restaurants can be found, some of
which are mentioned in leading food
guides. There is an excellent choice of
restaurants in some of the small Riviera
towns east and west of the city as well.
Menus often list traditional dishes,
which usually include seafood
appetisers, the famous “trofie” pasta
with pesto, and the pansoti al sugo di
noci - pasta stuffed with ricotta and
greens and served in walnut sauce plus thick minestrone soup,
stewed stockfish and local
fish.
Some of the traditional
wines include the local DOP
(designated protection
of origin) whites:
Vermentino, Pigato and
Bianchetta.
Things to eat
FLAVOURS FROM
ROUND THE WORLD
Genoa is a multiethnic city of different
races, languages and food. It’s worth
following the aromatic and appetising
trail of the new exotic cuisine, which
is spread by the numerous ethnic
restaurants that have recently opened
in the city. Lots of kebab shops have
opened up in the Old Town, along
with several Islamic butchers and
Indonesian restaurants; you can also
try sushi from Piazza De Ferrari to
the Old Port, enjoy Indian food in
the Piazza Tommaseo area, Brazilian
cuisine from Albaro to the City Centre
and you can find eateries offering far
eastern cuisine scattered throughout
the city.
USEFUL ADDRESSES
Carlo Felice Opera House
Box office Ph. +39 010 58 93 29/59 16 97
www.carlofelice.it
Fiera di Genova
Ph. +39 010 53 911
www.fiera.ge.it
Festival della Scienza
[email protected]
www.festivalscienza.it
19
from the left:
Golfo Paradiso,
Pieve Ligure
below:
Sori
ONE MORE DAY IN GENOA
THE EASTERN RIVIERA
The Golfo Paradiso is located
where Genoa ends to the east
and the Portofino promontory
begins. The small towns of
Bogliasco, Pieve Ligure and
Sori have beautiful beaches
and cliffs, palms and chestnut
trees, farming villages and
bathing establishments. During
Summer, ferries leave from
Genoa and from the nearby
village of Nervi, heading for
Portofino and the Cinque Terre.
Bogliasco
This village has very old origins and the
Roman Bridge is proof of this. Art lovers
will be spoiled for choice between
visiting the baroque parish church and
walking to the Santa Chiara Oratory
to admire the striking processional
crucifixes. Bogliasco is also a surfers’
paradise, thanks to the long waves that
come along in Autumn and Winter.
Shopping, beaches and camping
All beaches provide facilities. Ice
creams and sweets are also well-known
here (including the famous doughnuts)
and can be found along Via Mazzini,
the road that cuts through the whole
village and is a great starting point
for shopping. Along the road leading
to the hamlets of Poggio and San
Bernardo, there is a large campsite with
all facilities, which is also the closest to
Genoa.
Pieve Ligure
Its favourable climate and environment
make this one of the most popular
tourist destinations throughout the year.
The rocky coastline of Pieve Ligure is
20
a favourite spot for people who love
fishing and the sea. The coastline is
very rocky, so you need to be a good
swimmer, but it is worth diving in along
this stretch. A good tan is a sure thing
when you can sunbathe on the wellequipped cliff-side patios.
In Summer, you can enjoy a
romantic drink in one of the bathing
establishments that cling to the rocks:
just follow the winding paths that
leave from the train station. In January,
when the winter cold prevents plants
from flowering everywhere else, Pieve
Ligure is already in blossom with an
explosion of flowers, including the
local yellow mimosa.
Sori
Sori has the largest beach to the east
of Genoa. Thanks to its mild climate,
you can swim from May to October. The
village has lots of small restaurants in
the town centre and also in the hamlets
located up in the hills.
Gourmands should head for
Sant’Apollinare, Capreno, Sussisa and
Canepa and take a seat at the local
bistros and restaurants. Apart from
the traditional trofie, local specialities
include ravioli, pansoti, game and in
some places, fish dishes.
?
Things to know
PABLO PICASSO’S ROOTS
The famous Spanish artist who
painted Guernica, Pablo Picasso,
can be traced to Sori.
The parish archives prove that
Tommaso Picasso, his maternal
grandfather, was born in this
Riviera village and lived next to the
oratory of
Sant’Erasmo
before
leaving for
Spain.
Things to do
AN EXCURSION
From Bogliasco to Pieve Alta.
This is a simple itinerary that leaves
from the hamlet of San Bernardo
and takes one hour to arrive at
the church in Pieve Ligure. The
cement path takes you out of
the town centre (to the right of
the church) and crosses terraces
with olive groves and vegetable
patches, dipping slightly towards
the valley where large stretches
of the Pontetto stream mark the
border between Bogliasco and
Pieve Ligure.
21
from the left:
Cogoleto,
marina of
Arenzano,
Monte Beigua
below from
the left:
Villa Negrotto
Cambiaso,
The Acquasanta
Sanctuary
ONE MORE DAY IN GENOA
THE WESTERN RIVIERA
RIVIERA DEL BEIGUA
Arenzano
This little town is the pearl
of the western Riviera and
potluck for people who
love surprises and prefer
“slow” tourism.
Arenzano is a perfect mix
of all Ligurian characteristics
with its beaches and marina,
the 16th century Villa Negrotto
Cambiaso, its park, flowers and elegant
paths where you can come across
beautiful peacocks; religious piety with
the Sanctuary of the Bambin di Praga,
winding paths that reach the High Road
of the Liguria Hills. And that’s not all - the
golf course for outdoor activities, small
restaurants and farm guesthouses for
lovers of fine food.
Science buffs mustn’t miss Muvita, an
interactive cultural centre dedicated to
environmental technologies
(open to groups by reservation only,
Ph. +39 010 91 00 01).
Cogoleto
Farmers looking beyond the coastline,
almost forced to take to the sea from
their ungenerous and difficult land.
Such are Ligurians and Cogoleto is
perhaps the village that best embodies
this “country-cum-sea” spirit.
As you walk through the narrow lanes
you get the strange feeling of being
almost suspended between sea and
hills. Even tourism is the same: you
can sunbathe (even in Winter with the
unique climate here) or you can set
off along the country road towards
the Beigua Geo-Park, which is a short
distance away.
The Acquasanta Sanctuary
Located in the municipality of Mele, in
the Voltri hinterland. The processions
of the Confraternity orders of western
Liguria take place near the Sanctuary,
from 15th August until mid-September.
has been opened in an old paper
mill and it also has an educational
centre (visits by reservation
Ph. +39 010 63 81 03).
Things to do
THE SHIPWRECK A DIVER’S PARADISE
The Haven, an oil tanker that sank
here in the 1990s, rests about one
mile off the Arenzano coast.
What was at the time an
environmental disaster is now one
of the most favoured diving sites in
the area.
To dive to the Haven wreck,
contact one of the diving centres in
Arenzano.
Members carry many statues of the
Crucifixion and processional coffins of
the Patron Saints of these Orders on
their shoulders to the Chapel then up
the Holy Staircase, into the Sanctuary.
Next to the religious building, the
ancient sulphur thermal spa has just
been restored.
A paper museum (Museo della Carta)
22
23
from the left:
Castello
della Pietra
below:
Canestrelli
biscuits
from Torriglia
GENOA NOT JUST SEASIDE
Genoa is a perfect holiday base
not just for sea lovers but also
for people who appreciate
the countryside and hiking.
It is surrounded by
woodland, valleys
and villages
steeped in
tradition.
There are two
regional parks
- the Antola and
the Beigua - which
offer unspoilt nature and lots of
outdoor sporting activities.
You won’t be disappointed.
24
The Stura Valley
Once you reach an altitude of 700
metres, the surprising view unfurling
before your very eyes will be worth
every minute of the half-hour car
ride from Masone Motorway exit,
a practical gateway to the
Stura Valley. It almost feels
like you’re in Switzerland.
The “milk valley”, as the
Stura Valley is known, is
a beautiful district with
pastures and woodland.
The first place to stop is
Campoligure, where goldsmith
shops can be found dotted along
the lanes; they are specialized in gold
and silver filigree jewellery. Don’t miss
the Castello Spinola, dating from the
9th century, with its own park that houses
the Clockwork Pinocchio exhibition as
well as other summertime events.
In Rossiglione, it is worth visiting the
pretty old town and the original Museo
Passatempo (Hobby Museum), where
the extensive collection of motorcycles
and vintage objects re-enact the history
of 20th century Italy.
Tiglieto is home to the splendid Abbey
of Saint Mary, called Badia di Tiglieto
(1120), the very first Cistercian monastic
complex constructed
outside France,
as well as to
the perfectly
preserved
Romanesque
bridge.
The Scrivia Valley
This is the city dweller’s countryside,
traditional destination for day trips by
car or train (on the Casella railway).
The valley, with its carefully tended
villages, dotted with castles and
small churches, has many culinary
specialities, including rose cultivation
for syrup, back in vogue thanks to the
Slow Food Presidium. It is definitely
worthwhile climbing up to the Castello
della Pietra, on a sheer rocky outcrop
over the road that rises from Isola del
Cantone to Vobbia - a 20-minute hike
along a woodland track.
The Trebbia Valley
Liguria’s natural paradise.
The whole valley is to be enjoyed.
Each of its 8 villages and 100 hamlets
has tales and legends to tell: from
Rondanina, the smallest municipality
in Italy, to Pentema, a rural village that
turns into a life size living nativity scene
at Christmas, and Montebruno with its
Sanctuary. A visit to these villages is like
taking a journey back in time.
There is so much to discover in this
area. The country air - as the saying
goes - whets the appetite and there are
plenty of delicacies to satisfy the palate:
barbecued meat, canestrelli biscuits
from Torriglia, ravioli that, according to
tradition, were invented in Fascia.
Things to do
A VISIT TO THE PARKS
Indomitable sports people or
nature lovers can’t miss a visit to
the Antola or Beigua parks (listed
on UNESCO’s global network of
Geo-Parks).
Here you can try kayaking, white
water rafting, horse riding,
trekking, mountain biking and rock
climbing.
If you’re lucky you might even get
a glimpse of a wolf in the Antola
park, or a rare bird of prey like the
eagle or royal owl in the Beigua
park.
Beigua Park Ph. +39 010 85 903 00
Antola Park Ph. +39 010 94 41 75
25
© 2011 M&R Comunicazione - Genoa
Edition published by the Municipality of Genoa - Tourist Development and Promotion Office
Comune di Genova
Ufficio Sviluppo e Promozione del Turismo
Palazzo delle Torrette - Via Garibaldi, 12r
www.visitgenoa.it
Tourist Information
Centres (I.A.T.)
[email protected]
IAT Via Garibaldi
Via Garibaldi 12r
Ph. +39 010 55 729 03 / 55 727 51
Fax +39 010 55 724 14
(7/7 - h. 9.00 - 18.30)
Useful info:
Genoa Aquarium
www.acquariodigenova.it
C. Colombo Airport
Ph. +39 010 60 151 - www.airport.genova.it
IAT Caricamento
Piazza Caricamento
Ph. +39 010 55 742 00 / 55 742 02
Fax +39 010 55 780 12
(summer time 7/7 - h. 9.30 - 19.00
winter time 7/7 - h. 9.00 - 18.30)
City sightseeing open top bus
Genova inTour Pesci Viaggi
Ph. +39 010 56 49 36 - Mobile +39 329 90 656 86
www.pesciviaggi.it
Guided tours of the old centre
and of the Rolli Pallazos, listed as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Every weekend you can visit the old town of
Genoa and discover the charm of some of
the Rolli Palaces.
Guided tours in Italian, English, Spanish,
French and German.
For more information on prices and
languages, contact the offices above.
Hop on hop off
Citysightseeing Genova
Ph. +39 010 86 916 32
www.genova.city-sightseeing.it
Genoa Museums
www.museidigenova.it - www.rolliestradenuove.it
Radio Taxi
Ph. +39 010 59 66 - www.cooptaxige.it
Visit of the city with little train
Trenino Pippo
Ph. +39 328 69 429 44 - www.treninopippo.it
Ferrovia Genova-Casella
info Ph. +39 848 000 030
www.ferroviagenovacasella.it
ART and culture
events
for children
wine and food
accomodation
OUTDOOR
parks and villas
Accessible tourism - Terre di Mare
Genoa Province information office
Ph. +39 010 54 20 98
Mobile +39 339 13 092 49
www.terredimare.it
maps
genoa pocket guide
Trains
Ph. +39 89 20 21 - www.trenitalia.it