Boulder-circuits

Soft
Medium
Hard
Boulder circuits of Rychleby Trails
Bouldering is a sport that gains
more and more devotees every
year. Just like tourists travel to
mountains to go for a walk in
summer or to ski in winter, so do
bouldering enthusiasts take a long way to
realize their potential. Rychleby boulders
are already quite popular among climbers
from the whole Moravia and Poland. And
now the boulder circuits were created to
link them with Rychleby Bike Trails to be
accessible for wider outdoor community.
So far the boulder circuits have been
established only in French Fontainbleau.
Rychleby boulders become the first area in
Central Europe with well mapped and elaborated information structure. A close link
to the bike trails made the Boulder Circuits
a unique world wide sports arena.
Six natural circuits were divided into three
level categories to suit both the general
public and experts. Due to a high amount
of boulder problems of single circuit can
visitors, after they have done one, continue
to try to realize another harder circuit. All
the circuits start at Rychleby Trails Information Centre in Černá Voda. The length of
individual circuits varies from 14 to 20 km
and one should be able to complete one
circuit within a single day, two days at maximum. It is possible to rent some equipment
both for biking and bouldering (crash pads,
climbing shoes, chalk) at the Rychleby Trails
Information Centre.
Štěpán Stráník, Deprese (f Ondřej Nevělík)
Plans of areas related to the circuits, complex map and list of boulders (also marked
in plans) are to be found in this guide. A detailed guide to the individual circuits and
each related rock can be downloaded on
rychlebske-okruhy.cz
Do not forget to write your name into virtual
summit book after completing circuit and
pick up your diploma at Rychleby Trails
Information Centre.
Please note that the authors of this guide
do not take any responsibility for damage to
health or property caused by usage of this
guide.
http://rychlebske-okruhy.cz
Financial support was given by the Olomoucký kraj.
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3
Soft
Nebel | The easiest circuit is
aimed primarily at a wide
range of the climbing community. It requires only the basic
skills and enables climbers to try
out their technique on the simplest bouldering problems. This circuit is ideally suited
for beginners and is also suitable for kids
supervised by more experienced climbers
who take care of the relevant safety requirements. The circuit offers many opportunities to experience the thrill of this popular
adrenalin activity and try out bouldering as
a sport. The bouldering grades in this circuit
ranges from 2 to 4B Fb.
Routes | 14 routes | Wiessner (oblast): Chodníčková, Lesní kožich, Pobíhačka | Superflow:
Krovka, Pozastavení, Hranka, Spárka | Bukový vrch: Včil, Vosička, Trubec | Sedm skal:
Jeřabina, Rajbas, Slalom, Sjezd
Medium
Wiessner | The upper-elementary circuit is meant for less
experienced climbers. Basic
technique and physical literacy
are required within this circuit,
one can try out simple and mainly dynamic
bouldering oves. Which may teach you the
correct footwork techniques as a stepping
stone for your climbing development. The
circuit facilitates the preparation required
for more demanding strength bouldering
circuits, the bouldering grades range from 4
to 5A Fb.
Routes | 19 routes | Suchý vrch: Kotník,
Rajbasář, Druid | Žulový vrch – U Jedlí:
David Cofferfield, Prázdná sláma | Žulový
vrch – Brankopy: Úhybka, Budižkničemu |
West End: Habaďůra soft, Bezruč | Central
Park: Rajból | Zef Side: Ubíhačka, Lechtačka
| East Coast: Modla, Rozverný kant jávských
jinochů | Superflow: Ústup | Bukový vrch:
Včelař | Sedm skal: Spára, Pískařina, Cross
Ripper | Pre-intermediate
circuit which requires a good
grasp of footwork techniques
to solve more demanding
dynamic problems but also the
strength of arms in some sit start bouldering problems. The bouldering grades in this
circuit ranges from 5A to 5C Fb.
Routes | 22 routes | Suchý vrch: Jelen
v říji, Pělikáně, Hot spot, Úvěr | Žulový
vrch – U Jedlí: Rámcovka, Hranař | Žulový
vrch – Brankopy: Direkta, Flustačka soft |
Wiessner: Šulinek, Vratká | West End: Vadí
nevadí soft, Souchotina | Central Park:
Runway | Zef Side: Pan Gekon, Leichtbáček |
East Coast: Hare Rama, Konverz | Superflow:
Sápač | Bukový vrch: Trubkač | Sedm skal:
Dvojspára, Perioda, Měsíčky
Schindler | The selected boulders are among the best classics within their difficulty level
in the area. A moderate amount
of strength is required here and
besides the footwork techniques a good
grasp of overhang climbing is required. The
bouldering grades in this circuit range from
5C to 6A Fb.
Routes | 29 routes | Suchý vrch: Futurista,
Bora bora, Hawai, Bankrot | Zelená hora:
Masakrowanie lewaka, Buddy, Kamerton |
Žulový vrch – Brankopy: Panelák, Hadimrška,
Rowenta, Obelisk | Žulový vrch – U Jedlí: Špekovina, Pětersburg, Vypočítavá | Wiessner:
Kosmik, Břichomluvec | West End: Habaďůra,
Vadí nevadí | Central Park: Mnoho povzdechů
pro nic | Zef Side: Rádodajky marná snaha,
Eskapáda | East Coast: Gertúdovic stará
známost, Nemožná láska | Superflow: Pakt,
Vrásčitá | Bukový vrch: Bláto na hřišti | Sedm
skal: Aguirre, Meskalin, Černá šipka
Priessnitz | Advanced finger
strength in combination with
good technique and arm
strength are essential for successful achievements on these
boulders. The circuit is aimed at advanced
climbers with a wealth of climbing experience. On the other hand this gives one the
possibility to enjoy the best upper-intermediate boulders in the Rychleby Mountains.
The bouldering grades in this circuit ranges
from 6A to 6B+ Fb.
Routes | 29 routes | Suchý vrch: Odrzut direkt, Mr. Proper, Waikiki, Blízká setkání třetího
druhu | Zelená hora: Janusz ufam tebia, Fallout, Kapadaster | Žulový vrch – Brankopy:
Svlékání kůží, Nicota, Chironíko, Surfing |
Žulový vrch – U Jedlí: Ležér, Levitační koutek,
Jak vyjebat s Valentýnou | Wiessner: Maratón
| West End: První vráska, Sexuální revoluce,
Pařízek | Central Park: Milášek mé pasie,
Prolomit vlny | Zef Side: Dualita | East Coast:
Palič Atomkraft, Intimní osvětlení | Superflow: Chlemtač, Valpuržina noc | Bukový
vrch: Medovina | Sedm skal: Špageta, Efedrin,
Kotníkovka
Hard
Altvater | This advanced circuit
aimed at the most experienced
climbers. Successful sends
on this circuit in single day
displays a high skill level of
climbing technique and great physical
strength. Suitable weather conditions are
essential for a selection of the boulders. The
bouldering grades in this circuit ranges from
6B+ to 7A Fb.
Routes | 21 routes | Suchý vrch: Pahoe-hoe |
Zelená hora: Prostořekost, Maginotova linie |
Žulový vrch – Brankopy: Čuňák, Zmije, Kwak,
Grizzly, Onanie, Chrám spasitele Ježíše Krista
| Žulový vrch – U Jedlí: Petrohradská klasika,
Pravoboček | Wiessner: Kapky deště | West
End: No. 9, Die Welle Extension | East Coast:
Hare Krishna, Tufas too furios | Superflow:
Woland, Král Duchů | Bukový vrch: Plástev
páteční plachetnice | Sedm skal: Pomyšlení,
Pivní pes
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5
1 km
Suchý vrch (Kóta 436)
Description | The area consists of several
towers and rocks made of coarse-grained
granite with height up to 8 m. Chalk usage is
prohibited due to the uniqueness of the
area. Older ascents were made by members
of HO Jeseník in 1970.
Access | The area is situated on the south
hillside of Suchý vrch, west of quarry Nový
lom by Černá Voda.
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Coordinates | N 50.29828 E 17.125311
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500 m
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Kóta 436
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Zelená hora
Description | The area consists of a distinctive 8 m gneiss wall and a few rocks
underneath. The material changes to granite
blocks towards the direction of Žulový vrch.
A climbers guide to Zelená hora was made
by Sebastian Wójcik.
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Access | Roughly 5 minutes walk by traverse
road from Žulový vrch.
Coordinates | N 50.278733 E 17.116018
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Žulový vrch — Brankopy
Description | Boulder area composed of
large number of rocks and small towers
made of fine- or middle-grained granite,
height up to 7 m. Technical-strength climbing on smooth edges and slabs. The starts of
climbs marked with arrow.
1a
1
2
Access | From the crossroad Žulový vrch past
(left side) the old quarry to a small saddle.
From there ca. 50 m to the West.
Coordinates | N 50.27853 E 17.124178
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Paseka
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Martin Stráník, Bad Pig, Zelená hora (f Štěpán Uhlíř)
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Lom
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Žulový vrch — U Jedlí Description | Boulder area composed of
large number of rocks and small towers
made of fine- or middle-grained granite, height up to 7 m. Technical-strength
climbing on smooth edges and slabs and on
crimps in distinctive overhangs. The starts of
climbs marked with an arrow. The area was
discovered for bouldering and first ascents
were made by David Kolouch with fellows
in 2012.
Access | From the crossroad Žulový vrch past
(right side) the old quarry. Behind quarry to
the left across a glade to the forest.
Coordinates | N 50.279861 E 17.131073
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paseka
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Sokolí vrch — Wiessner
Description | The area consists of coarsegrained granite rocks and provides technical
and strength climbing on smooth slabs and
round edges.
Access | From the crossroad Pod Sokolím
vrchem ca. 50 m in the direction of Supíkovice down the descending road to the Wiessner Bike Trail. Further approx. fifty meters
down by the Wiessner Bike Trail to the rocks.
Coordinates | N 50.275286 E 17.154771
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Sokolí vrch — West End
2b
Description | The area consists of coarsegrained granite rocks and provides technical
and strength climbing on smooth slabs and 1.
round edges.
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Access | From the crossroad Pod Sokolím
1
vrchem ca. 300 m in 6.
the direction of Supíkovice down the ascending road to the rocks18
on the right side of the road.
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2b
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Coordinates | N 50.27342 E 17.157115
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posed posed
bouldry
cesta
cesta
bouldry bouldry
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6 12
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Lukáš Abt, Špekovina, U Jedlí (f Patrik Pompe)
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posed
cesta
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Sokolí vrch — Central Park
Description | The area consists of coarsegrained granite rocks and provides technical
and strength climbing on smooth slabs and
round edges.
Access | From the crossroad Pod Sokolím
vrchem ca. 500 m in the direction of
Supíkovice down the ascending road to the
turn-off of the Wales Bike Trail. From there
ca. 50 m down to the rocks on the left side of
the road.
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Coordinates | N 50.275104 E 17.164588
West End
S
cca 100 m
Zef Side
East Coas
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Patrik Pompe, Mnoho povzdechů pro nic, Central Park (f Lukáš Abt)
Sokolí vrch — Zef Side
Description | The area consists of coarsegrained granite rocks and provides technical
and strength climbing on smooth slabs and
round edges.
Access | From the crossroad Pod Sokolím
vrchem ca. 500 m in the direction of Supíkovice down the ascending road to the turnoff of Wales Bike Trail. From there ca. 400 m
up to the rocks in the forest on the left side
of the road.
Coordinates | N 50.273296 E 17.165039
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NIA
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OW
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BASKERVILLE
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Sokolí vrch — East Coast
Description | The area consists of coarsegrained granite rocks and provides technical
and strength climbing on smooth slabs and
round and often overhang edges.
Access | From the crossroad Pod Sokolím
vrchem ca. 500 m in the direction of Supíkovice down the ascending road to the turnoff of the Wales Bike Trail. From there ca.
200 m down to the rocks in the forest on the
right side of the road.
Coordinates | N 50.274429 E 17.167982
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SNOWDONIA
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Superflow
Description | The area consists of two massive rocks and several smaller rocks. Climbing primarily on friction on blunt edges and
smooth slabs.
Coordinates | N 50.290762 E 17.202477
21
Access | From Nová Červená Voda ca. 1 km in
the direction of Supíkovice down the forest
asphalt road to the crossroad. From there go
on in the opposite direction
along Superflow Bike
Trail (Section 4)
ca. 1 km to the
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rocks.
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Bukový vrch
Description | The area consists of two small
towers and several coarse-grained granite
rocks, weatherworn on some spots. Climbing primarily on smooth walls and slabs.
Access | From Nová Červená Voda ca.
700 m in the direction of Černá Voda (in the
direction of Sedm skal) to a meadow. Rocks
are located on a small ridge on the right side
of the meadow.
Coordinates | N 50.299332 E 17.172266
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Sedm skal
Description | Boulder area composed of
three small towers and several rock made
of solid coarse-grained granite, height up to
8 m. There is a summit book on top of the
Main tower (Hlavní věžička). This area lived
through a bouldering renaissance at the
turn of the millenium. Mostly members of LK
Javaanes continued in search for new routes
eight years later.
Access | From Nová Červená Voda ca. 1 km
in the direction of Černá Voda. To the left
on the forest crossroad and then 200 m to
rocks.
Coordinates | N 50.294667 E 17.166557
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Ondřej Nevělík, Svlékání kůží, Brankopy (f Štěpán Uhlíř)
2015