Cig`Art 25 Hiver 2008-2009

GASTRONOMY
Michel de Matteis
Enchanting flavours
At the Royal Palm Michel de Matteis
offers a western cuisine with local
influences, the journey of a chef who has
wandered the kitchens of France
If the Royal Palm is a planet then Michel de
Matteis is its guiding star, since the 15th of
November 2003 his life has changed
dramatically. He became the brains behind
the gastronomy at the Royal Palm and
named chef of its three restaurants the Bar
Plage, Natureaty and La Goélette. A 90degree turn for a 100% European chef, it is
as if Mauritius has enchanted him. You
think he is the head chef but actually he is
choreographer, juggler and acrobat; at the
head of a 66-strong team at the helm of an
ultra-modern machine he aims to defend
“an international cuisine underlined with
spices”. His creed? Quality, authenticity and
availability, values learned during his
professional journey; after studying at the
Ecole française de cuisine in Lyon this
young epicurean set out on a voyage to
discover
haute
cuisine
with
an
apprenticeship at the Casino de
Charbonnière at the side of a future awardwinning chef Michel Lorrain. Stamina is not
a word that is used in vain in this case; over
ten years Michel de Matteis ran more laps
than a sprinter working in numerous awardwinning restaurants. After his military
service, in 1983 he became chef de partie at
the Royal Monceau in Toulon under Gabriel
Biscay. Paris opened up all its treasures and
Claude Deligne the chef at Taillevent
welcomed him to the team in 1986. He
the Hotel Mirabeau in Monte-Carlo where
he gained his celebrity status.
Jacques Silvant General Manager et Michel de Matteis Executive Chef
completed two areas of expertise in fish and
sauces, two domains in which he today
excels. It was a golden age when he worked
with Christian le Squer as commis chef, who
would later go on to win 3 stars at Ledoyen.
Next he joined the very select Saint James
Club with its 30 luxury rooms close to the
avenue Foch when they decided to open a
restaurant; he then became chef for the first
time. In February 1988, Manuel Martinez
called him to be second at the Tour
d’Argent; at the age of 27 he managed 35
cooks for four years in his first Michelin
three star; an extraordinary adventure. A
new challenge followed immediately
afterwards when he spent 10 years at the
Château de Divonne-les-Bains and then at
Signature dishes
Five years ago he took a great leap and
landed in Mauritius to create a cuisine that
is both sensitive, joyful and makes use of
the best fresh produce, veal from Corrèze,
duck from Challens, Angus beef, shellfish
from Madagascar and local fish. His public
are for the majority French, Swiss and
British; in general 84% are European. In the
evenings only the “sur mesure” cuisine at
Le Goélette lends itself perfectly to the
discreet luxury of the hotel, the
contemporary ambience in the dining room
or the terrace with views over the lagoon.
Regulars enjoy his signature dishes such as
duck foie gras with crab, foie gras sorbet,
or lobster tail marinated in homemade
tandoori- delicious! And what to say about
his bread and eggs (apparently the best
scrambled eggs on the island!), or the
cabbage tree heart carpaccio with shellfish
with island flavours? But what this brilliant
chef loves most of all is to offer fish of the
day, grilled, poached or roasted, his
philosophy? “Simplicity above all”.
Gilles Brochard
Royal Palm
Grand Baie Ile Maurice
Tél.: +230 209 80 00
www.royalpalm-hotel.com
GASTRONOMY
Dominique Gauthier
Cook of the year
and Germany). For 25 years they have met
in one restaurant or another and one region
or another, to celebrate this anniversary this
brilliant association of gourmets recently
gave an exceptional lunch in Paris under the
high patronage of the President of the
French Republic in the Élysée room at the
Bristol Hotel.
Dominique Gauthier et Eric Frechon
The International Academy of Gastronomy
celebrates 25 years
Proud of the dictum issued by BrillatSavarin “To receive is to ensure the
happiness of your guests for the time that
they are under your roof”; the International
Academy of Gastronomy has sections in
twenty countries (including Switzerland
Success for chef Dominique Gauthier
Around 100 invited guests had the
opportunity to share a feast representative
of the very best in cuisine today. Other than
the “Tortelli di Zucca” from Nadia Santini,
chef at “Dal Pescatore” near Mantua in Italy,
and the “bouillon de homard aux épices
douces” from London-based Eric Chavot,
they could also sample the “œuf millénaire
à la truffe, champignons et noisettes” from
Feran Adria the chef at El Bulli or the two
splendid “Bonbons de truffe du Vaucluse
plunged into a beef bouillon” by Dominique
Gauthier, the chef at the Beau-Rivage in
Geneva who took the prize for the most
surprising dish. To finish they tasted the
“Hare royale et foie gras” from the Bristol’s
Eric Frechon. The Grand cru Chambertin
“Clos de Bèze” 2001, Bouchard père et fils,
was a perfect accompaniment for the dish.
Next came dessert created by Laurent
Jeannin, chef-pâtissier at the Bristol,
contained in a great chocolate bowl,
“Précieux
chocolat
Nyangbo
de
Madagascar, léger marscapone rafraîchi
d’une glace café torréfié” (Nyangbo
chocolate with a light marscapone and
roasted coffee ice cream).
We should also mention that Giuseppe
Dell’Osso, the president of the Academy has
just signed an agreement with Jaume Tapier,
president of Relais & Châteaux to publish
a book of recipes (with no more than 800
calories for each recipe), from “Relais
gourmands” chefs to highlight cuisine that
is both healthy and of high gastronomic
quality. A European step to build a Europe
full of taste!
Gilles Brochard
Académie Internationale de Gastronomie
www.intergastronom.com
GASTRONOMY
Kazakh Kaviar
Arrives in Switzerland
produce from the Caspian Sea, the former
soviet republic of Kazakhstan is reputed to
benefit from the very best conditions for
breeding sturgeon, the Beluga being the most
sought-after species. In reality 70% of caviar
stocks come from the Caspian Sea.
Quality, traceability, authenticity, the new
brand of caviar originating from Kazakhstan
arrives on the shores of Lake Geneva.
Is this the beginning for the letter K? K as in
Kazakh Kaviar, a brand that promotes the best
Nonetheless “Kazakh Kaviar” a brand
launched by connoisseur Thierry Uldry and
his associate Jean-Jacques Tereins offers a
number of treasures showcased in “La Carte
des Vins” store at the centre of Vésenaz, in the
Geneva area. A real Aladdin’s cave that also
offers white Piémont truffles, black truffles
from Richerenches and “Pure Gold” smoked
salmon filets decorated with gold flakes.
As Thierry Uldry underlines “The brand’s
philosophy puts an emphasis on authenticity,
freshness and traceability of the produce used
as well as the fundamental values of the
protection of the species in its environment,
in the form of controlled fishing and the
sustainable use of natural resources”.
At the end of the counter, the public can see
the transparent refrigerated unit that contains
the original boxes that come directly from the
country via Villefranche-sur-Saône. A tailormade service is offered to each client, with the
box of caviar being filled in front of them, it
is then sealed and placed in a case filled with
an “icebox” liquid gel that ensures perfect
conservation of the product. Customers can
return with the same recyclable box.
Kazakh Kaviar is already established at
Fauchon in Paris and we are sure that those
who love Beluga, Oscietre and Sevruga will
discover this high quality range, controlled
and conditioned in the best possible way in
this little treasure trove for epicureans.
Gilles Brochard
Kazakh Kaviar
Route de Thonon, 52
1222 – Vésenaz
Tél : + 41 (0)22 772 09 10
www.kazakhkaviar.ch
GASTRONOMY
Dominique Gauthier
Cook of the year
“French-Swiss Cook of the Year” but his
newly won title is a real accolade as he is
very well aware “ It is more than a
recognition for me and my family” explains
the chef, “ It is a reward for 25 years of my
life, 25 years of patience and sacrifices, but
I consider these 18 points to be an award for
the whole team at the Chat Botté and the
staff working around us, it is an additional
motivation”.
Dominique Gauthier, chef at the Chat
Botté at the Beau Rivage in Geneva was
nominated “Cook of the year” with a score
of 18/20 by the Gault Millaut Guide. This
title pays homage to his immense talent
and his dishes for this winter that are
created around the truffle.
Of course Dominique Gauthier was already
honoured back in 2004 with the title
Urs Heller Gault Millau Suisse,
Chef Dominique Gauthier et Jacques Mayer
It is a success that reflects upon everyone at
the hotel where 17 years ago Dominique
Gauthier succeeded Richard Cressac, there
he found a feeling of family and of trust as
Jacques Mayer, owner of the beau Rivage
has always given him a free rein to create
and to compose one of the best menus in the
Geneva region. The three signature dishes
combine carefully chosen produce with taste
and savoir-faire; the Cap Langoustine in
When you ask Dominique Gauthier about
what fuels his creativity he replies without
hesitation “ The seasons inspire me, I was
fortunate enough to spend my childhood in
an ordinary family that grew vegetables.
My father was a hunter, fisherman and
mushroom lover and this opened my
mind”. His first passion? “ Cuisine that has
ties to nature, sport and walks in the
mountains”. The award-winning chef at the
Beau Rivage never stops paying tribute to
one of his masters, Jacques Chibois in
Grasse, would he in time have become the
chef responsible for a refined and audacious
cuisine, precise, simple and pure? The proof
of the pudding is in the eating!
kadaïf, the Vallorbe frogs legs in gigotin and
tempura and the trussed, sautéed foie gras
thickly sliced and served with the
marinated black olives that are one of the
chef’s favourites and are also available to
buy bottled. For the whole of the winter, the
chef is pleased to introduce the theme of his
new menu, created around the black
diamond; a “truffle bonbon”, a roast
langoustine on a creamy risotto with an egg
yolk (à la truffle), deliciously creamy and
crispy and a Saint-Jacques tartare also with
truffles and a Jerusalem artichoke emulsion.
Gilles Brochard
www.beau-rivage.ch
GASTRONOMY
Patrick Laporte
At La Réunion Restaurant
Laporte’s restaurant is a real meeting point for
those who enjoy game and rustic cuisine. A
village inn for those who want to taste a Veal
Tartare with boletins and foie gras, Austrian
Venison fillet or knuckle of lamb slow cooked
in rosemary and green lentils. Patrick Laporte
could not withdraw his classic game and
bracing dishes from the menu, his fans would
be devastated!
Patrick et Caroline Laporte
After closing for several weeks the famous
Veyrier bistro starts up again under new
colours but still with the same rustic cuisine.
Following the repairs, the restaurant is ready
for a new even more wonderful adventure,
sure to be a success. There are 40-50 covers per
day; five entrées and five main dishes are
offered on the Carte du jour for lunch. The
secret to La Réunion’s success is a warm
welcome, friendly staff, efficient service and
above all the well-known quality of the cuisine.
A faultless journey
Native of Biarritz, chef Patrick Laporte has
cooking in his blood, as his grandparents were
the owners of the Café de Paris. Stubborn and
going against his parents wishes the young
Patrick joined the Hotel School in Lausanne
where he also met his future wife, English born
Caroline who would later work with him.
Returning to Biarritz he set off again to work
in reputed restaurants in France and
Switzerland; the Côte Saint-Jacques in Joigny,
Alain Chapel in Mionnay, the Café de la Place
in Plan-les-Ouates. You can also imagine him
at the side of Michel Bras who he admires
enormously.
Seconded by Eric Bibolet, from GrandBornand, he favours slow-cooked casseroles
making use of only the best produce. He has
invented a “back-to-front” foie gras sandwich;
two big slices of foie gras with an apricot toast
with mango chutney- amazing! Passionate
about patisserie he offers a soft dark chocolate
dessert with Espelette pepper and also sells
his own line of macaroons. La Réunion adds
a certain flavour to daily life.
Gilles Brochard
La Réunion
2, Chemin Sous-Balme, 1255 Veyrier, Suisse
Tél: +41 (0)22 784 07 98
www.restaurant-reunion.ch
Fermé le samedi et le dimanche.
www.lamacarona.ch