December 2008 - St. Augustine Orchid Society

Newsletter
December 2008
Volume 3 Issue #12
Club News
St. Augustine Orchid Society
Wishing You and Yours
A Merry Christmas and
A Happy New Year
December 2008
Page 1
Club News
Upcoming Events
January
3-4 Sarasota Orchid Society Show
Selby Gardens
6
St Augustine Orchid Society Meeting
Venezuelan Cattleya Species
Presented by Michael Sinn, Canaima Orchids
10-11 Fort Pierce Orchid Show and Sale
Fort Pierce Community Center
16-18 Fort Lauderdale Orchid Society Show
War Memorial Auditorium
17
Keiki Club, Staking Your Orchid Flowers
1-3 pm, Bottom Residence, 797-4360
6916 Cypress Lake Ct, St Aug
23-25 Manatee River Orchid Society Show
Manatee Civic Center
30-1 Tamiami Int’l Orchid Festival
Sunshine Pavilion, Fair Expo Center, Miami
February
3
St Augustine Orchid Society Meeting
Central American Orchid Tour: Costa Rica and
Panama
Presented by Shelton Thorne, American Group
Travel
7-8 Venice Orchid Society Show
Venice Community Center
14-15 Boca Raton Orchid Society Show
Safe Schools Training Institute
22 ? Keiki Club – Water Quality and Orchids
Must Confirm Date and Venue
27-1 63rd Miami International Orchid Show
Sheraton Mart Hotel & Convention Ctr
March
3
St Augustine Orchid Society Meeting
Vanda Hybridizing and Culture
Jim Sabetto, Former Owner Tropic 1 Orchids
7
Master Gardeners & SAOS Members
Q&A, Repotting & Problem Plant Clinic
Ace on US 1, 9 am to noon 13-15 International Orchid Festival
Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden in Miami
15
Keiki Club, Repotting & Problem Plant Clinic
Mounting Orchids Demonstration
1-3 pm, Bottom Residence, 797-4360
6916 Cypress Lake Ct, St Aug
20-21 Englewood Area Orchid Society
United Methodist Church
December 2008
20-22 Port St Lucie Orchid Society Show
Port St Lucie Community Center
21-22 Jacksonville Orchid Society Show
Garden Center
27-29 Naples Orchid Society Show
United Church of Christ
28-29 Orchid Society of Highlands County Show
Ag Civic Center, Sebring
April
4
Master Gardeners & SAOS Members
Q&A, Repotting & Problem Plant Clinic
Ace on US 1, 9 am to noon 7
St Augustine Orchid Society Meeting The 25 Best
Orchids I Have Seen in the Last 3 Years
Greg Allikas, Photographer, www.orchidzone.com
Thanks to Watson Realty
and Jeanette Smith for the
use of their meeting space
at 3505 US 1 South
St Augustine Orchid Society Organization
President
Mike Heinz
[email protected]
First Vice President
Program Chair
Sue Bottom
[email protected]
Second Vice President
Publicity Chair
Vivienne Rowe
[email protected]
Secretary
AOS/Orchid Digest Rep
Lola Stark
[email protected]
Treasurer
Bill Gourley
[email protected]
Directors at Large
Terry Bottom, [email protected]
Paul Jones, [email protected]
Dick Roth, [email protected]
Exhibit Committee Chair
Kaycee Heinz
[email protected]
Librarians
Betsy and Haley Bastian
[email protected]
Membership Committee
Chair, Roving Reporter
Gail Marshall
[email protected]
Newsletter Editors
Webmasters
Sue and Terry Bottom
[email protected]
[email protected]
Operations Committee
Chair
Jeanette Smith
[email protected]
Page 2
Club News
November Keiki Club at Lola’s
Winter Orchid Care
A total of 23 people convened for our November Keiki
Club get together where we toured Lola and Chuck Stark’s
greenhouse where Lola keeps her plants during the winter.
There were several presentations on winter orchid care.
Lola talked about Vandas and their general culture, how
they love fresh moving air and frequent watering. During
the winter months, they should be protected whenever low
temperatures are projected to be less than 50F. As with
many plants, their growth slows during the winter so water
and fertilizer requirements decrease.
Lola waters her
vandas every other day while they are overwintering.
For catasetums, you should cease all watering and let the
plant go dormant and lose its leaves. When new growth
begins in the spring, it can be repotted but all water should
be withheld until the new growth is 3 or 4 inches tall.
January 6 Monthly SAOS Meeting
Everyone relaxes under the shade during presentation
Sue talked about winter care for other orchids. For
Phalaenopsis, they should likewise be protected if
temperatures are below 50F. The cold snaps we have
during the fall cause the spring blooming Phals to set their
spikes, which you should start seeing now at the base of
the lower leaves. If all goes well, you should have blooms
by Valentine’s Day.
The growth of Cattleyas is slowing down now so if you
were watering every 3 or 4 days during the summer, you
can reduce watering to perhaps once a week. Cattleyas
should be protected once temperatures are projected to
drop below around 40F. Oncidiums and Phalaenopsis
type Dendrobiums have winter care requirements similar
to Cattleyas.
There are some types of Dendrobiums that require a cold,
dry winter to provide you with abundant spring blooms.
There is a link to a spreadsheet on the Culture Page of
the website containing detailed cultural instructions. If you
are unsure of the type of Dendrobium you have, email your
plant tag info to Sue and she’ll check OrchidWiz for your
plant geneology.
December 2008
Michael Sinn of Canaima Orchids in Palmetto, Florida will
talk about Venezuelan Cattleya species. His presentation
will focus on species natural habitat and examples of
selected clones from his breeding program. Since 1994,
Canaima Orchid’s goal has been to produce the finest
cultivars of Cattleya species through line-breeding of
select parents. By combining superior parents with lesser
known species possessing other desirable traits, he is
able to create populations of Cattleya species that were
only a dream a generation ago. A long list of international
awards validates their breeding stock as being the finest
available anywhere. Rare and unusual color forms will be
available for sale at the meeting. Email Michael if there is
something special that you would like Michael to bring to
the meeting.
Michael grew up hiking the jungles of South America
in search of Cattleyas in their natural habitats. Using
his degree in civil engineering Michael worked in the
Venezuelan Amazon which afforded him opportunities
to further observe habitats and understand the urgency
for conservation. Michael’s instincts drew him toward
breeding Cattleyas and Laelias, eventually starting his own
nursery. By 2003, Michael and his growing family moved
to Florida where he opened and continues to develop his
nursery business known as Canaima Orchids. Through his
excursions over the years to habitats in Brazil, Colombia
and Venezuela, Michael’s vision remains constant: to
conserve native species by producing the finest cultivars
of Cattleya species. Michael Sinn is a widely recognized
top-quality breeder, honored with numerous international
awards. A writer, popular lecturer, and Student Judge
with the American Orchid Society, he serves as Judging
Chairman for the Venezuelan Orchid Association.
Page 3
Club News
Home and Backyard Orchid Growing
Rods, Racks and Sunshine
Beth Strate, [email protected]
Growing 207 orchids indoors without a greenhouse is a lot
of work but the benefits are no slugs, scale or aphids. I
check every plant I get before bringing it into the population.
Once a raffle plant had a mealybug, my hubby sealed it up
in a plastic bag and filled it with carbon dioxide for 24 hours,
goodbye bugs!
The only orchids
I have that grow
outdoors
are
Cymbidiums in an
eastern exposure
and bare root
Vandas
hang
from a Ligustrum
bush
during
the year when
temperatures are
over 50 degrees,
otherwise
they
board inside (with a few tree frogs). The bright but indirect
light keeps them blooming, Vandas won’t bloom if they
don’t enough light.
Just
watch
for
sunburn, the leaves
will get bronze to red
depending on their
parentage.
I also use invisible
mist
humidifiers
from Target (about
$30). They replace
the humidity that a
greenhouse provides
but do not make the humidity so high that you have mold,
ceiling rot or wallpaper peeling. These are life savers and
the plants would actually say “thank you” if they could.
I had the filtered water tested and found the calcium level
was 300 ppm – OUCH! I started using rainwater (when
available) and distilled water - especially for the exotics
(Masdevallias, Draculas,
Vandas
and
other
Cattleyas).
I have grow-lights in certain places to supplement natural
light levels due to the changing angle of the sun throughout
the year. Whatever I’m doing, it seems to be working.
Most of my plants get 20-20-20 at half strength dilution.
Cymbidiums get 30-10-10 mixed with Epsom salts at 1
tbsp/gal from April to July to initiate flower spikes. The
Phalaenopsis & Dendrobiums get 6-30-30 every 6 weeks
instead of 20-20-20. I have had them blooming for 8
months. Then some take a 3 month break and pop again.
Every 4th watering all my plants get flushed with filtered
water.
December 2008
I found out at the WOC
in Miami that if you ask
the same orchid culture
question of 6 different
vendors you will get at
least 6 different answers.
If your plant is not
blooming, its needs are
not being met. Change
its location for more light.
Don’t be afraid to try
something new.
Page 4
Club News
Dinner is served
December 13 SAOS Christmas Auction
Lola Stark, [email protected]
President Mike Heinz called the meeting to order and
gave us Grace before we served ourselves at our annual
Christmas meal and auction. There were 48 members,
family and guests at the Moultrie Trails Community Center
for the get together. We had no business to conduct except
for having holiday fun. Barbara outdid herself (as usual) in
her role as southern hostess, coordinating the whole event.
The turkeys that Billy Conrad fried were a huge hit, even the
turkey bones went home with Leggs to be reincarnated as
another meal. The salads, sides and desserts brought by
members were quite delicious, so much so that Teddie thinks
our next project should be assembling a cookbook. The
program was fabulous with many gorgeous orchid plants
provided by Fred to auction. Nearly everyone present went
home with at least one and some went home with several
new orchids. We had a wonderful time, a testament to our
members dedication to having fun. The meeting broke up
about 9:30 pm. Everyone is ready to auction
December 2008
Page 5
Cultivation
Growing Tips for December
By
Courtney T. Hackney
Dept. Biology
Univ. North Florida
Email:
[email protected]
Orchids are viewed by
the public and many new
hobbyists as very exotic
plants; difficult to grow.
There are certainly many
orchid species that fit that category. However, most orchids
given as gifts designed for the mass market are very easy
to grow if one remembers the “KISS” principle. This axiom
(keep it simple stupid) works well for those of us that like to
think that we have advanced beyond beginner status too.
The following is my list of orchid growing rules that follow
the “KISS” principle. Pass this list on to friends who receive
an orchid gift this season.
1. Water only when dry. Even if you under water, your
orchid will not die. Over-watering kills roots, degrades the
potting medium and attracts insects. All of these problems
are difficult to reverse even for experts. Under-water your
orchid, and one simply needs to water more frequently and
your orchid will grow and flower.
2. Under-fertilize or don’t fertilize. Every orchid growing
manual recommends a particular nutrient formula or brand.
Newly purchased
orchids
usually
come
in
a
medium loaded
with
nutrients
(fertilizer). Many
new
orchid
growers purchase
“orchid” fertilizer
with their plant
and feel obligated
to use it regularly.
Schomburgkia species
Few orchids die
by Rose Ganucheau
from being underfertilized, but many die from too much fertilizer. Over
fertilizing is the second leading cause of death of orchids,
often accelerated when the orchid starts to show signs of
stress from over-watering.
3. Repotting. As soon as an orchid begins to look
stressed many growers decide to repot. If over-watering
and over-fertilizing have not killed your orchid, this will
usually finish the job. Repotting can save an orchid if the
first two rules have been violated, i.e. roots are dead, and
December 2008
the medium shot. Rarely, however, is this effort successful
once this stage is reached. There is a greater chance of
success if the mistreated orchid and its medium is carefully
transferred to a clay pot of the same size and allowed to dry
thoroughly. Most orchids come in a plastic pot, often poorly
drained, and sometimes have no drainage at all.
4. Use the water you have! Buying mineral water or
distilled water may make you feel better, but it generally
offers no better chance of survival for your orchid than
water from the tap. Some folks have even installed water
softeners for their orchids; a sure-fire death warrant. Good
Bothriochilus bellus
by Rose Ganucheau
water quality is extremely important, but not critical for most
orchids. Thoroughly soak your orchid at least once a month.
This can involve setting your orchid in a sink full of water for
15 minutes or so or allowing water to run through the pot for
awhile. This removes any salts, including excess fertilizer.
Use water at about the same temperature as the air.
5. Humidity Many beginners insist of misting their plants
constantly to maintain a proper humidity and provide water.
Often this seems necessary because some aspect of rules
1-4 above have been violated and the orchid appears to
be wilting or suddenly drops all of its flowers and buds.
If humidity is kept at the ideal for people, 50-60%, your
orchids will lose water at an appropriate rate. Consider the
location of your orchid and if you would be uncomfortable
there, so would your orchid.
6. Light Orchid books spend lots of time describing the
ideal light environment. All plants need light to grow.
However, orchids can adapt to a variety of light conditions
and grow and flower there. They cannot grow in the dark.
Orchids in windowsills often experience bright light for short
periods of time and then low light levels for the rest of the
day. As long as leaves do not become hot to the touch, this
setting is appropriate as long as one does not violate rules
1-5 above.
Page 6
Cultivation
Orchid Questions & Answers
Where Members Share Experiences
Sue Bottom, [email protected]
Q. Courtney was talking about Dynamite at the
last meeting. I am thinking about switching to that
slow release fertilizer and stop using my water
soluble fertilizer. Many of my cattleyas have roots
at the surface and I don’t know how much of the
good root zone is below the surface. Seems to
me that the roots at or above the surface of the
growing medium will get little benefit from the Dynamite. So, how much of the total root zone is needed to give the
plant sufficient nutrients? Also, I have heard numerous
times of the importance of flushing the salts out with clear
water periodically. How is that accomplished when using
Dynamite that has some degree of fertilizer dissolution
whenever the plant is watered.
A. The Dynamite works by dissolving a small amount of
its fertilizer when you water so any surface roots above
the Dynamite would not be fertilized. However, I suspect
there are sufficient roots in the pot for fertilizer uptake and
the occasional aerial root will just seek out water. If all your
good green tipped roots are out of the pot, it may be time
to think about repotting. When you flush, you are trying
to flush the accumulated salts, those salts that have been
deposited from multiple previous fertilizing events, out of
the root zone. If you reach a steady state by flushing a
sufficient amount of water through your pot, even with the
Dynamite in the pot, you would have a salt load equal to
the salt in the dissolved water in that single fertilizing event,
and that salt level should be at an acceptable, low level. After flushing, the salts will begin to accumulate again in
the root zone over time until the next flushing event.
Q. I am thinking of switching away from coconut husks
in my growing medium and going more to a tree fern mix. What are the proportions of aliflor, tree fern, charcoal, etc.
that you use for your Cattleyas?
A. The freely draining mix I use for Cattleyas and
Dendrobiums is about a third aliflor, third tree fern, sixth
charcoal and sixth sponge rok, although I probably
mix it differently each time around. If you listen to Fred
Clarke, he is an advocate of adding organic material (in
this mix tree fern and in your prior mix coconut husk) into
your potting mix for three reasons, to increase microbial
activity, to buffer changes in pH (acidity and alkalinity) and
to increase the cation exchange capacity (make nutrients
more available to the root zone). You will need to water
more frequently with tree fern than coconut husk in your
potting mix because the mix dries much more quickly,
which is, of course, why the tree fern mix works so well
December 2008
with the Cattleya and Dendrobium type orchids that have
pseudobulbs or canes to store water and food versus the
more water retentive coconut husk mix that works so well
with Phalaenopsis type orchids that have only a fleshy leaf
to store water and nutrients. Aliflor
Charcoal
Spagnum
Sponge rok
Coconut Husks
Tree Fern
Q. One of the first things I read about orchid potting mixes
in my Ortho book was to be wary of mixed potting media. The topic was about a small orchid grown to market size
in sphagnum and then placed in a larger pot of bark for
retail sale. One could not see the sphagnum. If the orchid
is watered to keep the bark at just the right moisture
level, the sphagnum will stay wet and rot the base of the
orchid. Shouldn’t the potting media have uniform drying
characteristics?
A. Absolutely, and I think you have answered your own
question. You shouldn’t repot most orchids unless you
have a good reason to repot them. Once a newly acquired
orchid has bloomed out, you can repot it if you find the
dreaded mixed potting media situation you describe or if
you simply want that orchid in the same mix as you normally
use so that all your similar type orchids can be watering
at the same time. Other than that, only repot when the
mix has broken down or the orchid has become unstable
by growing too much out of its pot. The exceptions to
this ‘repot sparingly’ rule would be for your Phalaenopsis
that should be repotting by June every year or two or your
Paphiopedilums that seem to love being repotted, possibly
because they are so sensitive to salt accumulation.
Page 7
Cultivation
What’s in Bloom
By
Paul Jones
[email protected]
We’ve got pictures of blooming orchids from Sue Bottom, Viv
Rowe and yours truly this month. Email me the pictures you
take of your plants and be sure to include a brief description
of how you grow them and any other interesting tidbit you
wish to share. Every orchid has a story to tell and a history
behind it!
Sue’s
Cattleyas:
When world class
orchid
growers
give you advice,
you listen! Ruben
Sauleda told us
to open up the
greenhouse
for
more air ventilation
by ripping out the
wall and replacing
it with a retractable Bc. Mount Anderson ‘Snowflake’ x
curtain
and
to
C Horace ‘Maxima’
use aluminet for
Grown by Sue Bottom
shadecloth. Rafael
Romero told us to use the top vent to set up a natural air
flow up and out of the greenhouse. Fred Clarke talked about
the importance of air in the root zone. How right they were
about the importance of fresh air, not just fan circulated air,
but bathing your orchids in fresh wafting air morning, noon
and night. Duncan Bass and Harry McElroy told us to start
using CalMag fertilizer. Lots of SAOSer’s recommended
Inoculaid. And then there’s the other snake oil: Messenger.
So many things
changed in a short
period of time
and the result is
a
greenhouse
full of bigger and
better
blooms
than ever before.
Our
speakers
have taught me
so much about
growing orchids.
I can’t wait to
hear what we
learn from our
Pot. Makaha Gold x Free Sprit
speakers in 2009!
‘Carmela’ Grown by Sue Bottom
December 2008
Blc. Dana Thomas ‘Tong Hising’ x
Lc. Oriental Splender ‘Golden Dragon’
Grown by Sue Bottom
Lc. Callistoglossa Alba
Grown By Sue Bottom
Paul’s Vanda: This
is the lovely V.
Manuvadee ‘Sky’
AM/AOS blooming
this morning out
in the oleander
‘orchid tree’. She
is
a
stunning
cross between the
hybrid V. Ponpimol
and V. coerulea,
the famous ‘blue
orchid’
species
and arguably the
bluest orchid on
Earth.
Although
the coerulea blue
Vanda Manuvadee ‘Sky’ AM/AOS
Grown by Paul Jones
Page 8
Cultivation
seems more to purple in this cross, she is still a stunner and
has the awards to back it up. I got her back in January at
the WOC in Miami from the world famous Vanda gurus at
RF Orchids in Homestead. This is her first re-bloom in my
care.
Blc. Momilani Rainbow ‘The Gypsy’ HCC/AOS
Grown by Paul Jones
Paul’s Cattleya: This is Blc. Momilani Rainbow ‘The Gypsy’
HCC/AOS. I got this plant at the SAOS Christmas auction
last year and this is her first re-bloom in my care, almost
exactly eleven months from her repotting. She is a cross
between Blc. Orange Nuggett and Lc. Mari’s Song, a very
successful cross indeed as evidenced by her HCC, awarded
in 2000. She is growing in a six-inch, hanging woodenslatted basket with no potting medium whatsoever other
than a few wine corks for company! She was one of the
first of my experiments with growing Cattleyas ‘Vanda-style’.
Almost every Cattleya I have gotten since is now growing
this way and I do not intend to ever grow Cattleyas again
with the more traditional forms of potting media (i.e., ceramic
pots, bark mix, coconut husk, even aliflor and lava rock).
Slc. Mae Hawkins ‘Mendenhall’ x Blc. Francis Y Hushino
‘Carteira Ruby’ Grown By Sue Bottom
December 2008
Phal. amabilis x Timothy Christopher
Grown by Viv Rowe
Viv Rowe’s Phalaenopsis: I got her from NAS Jacksonville last
spring. She is planted in sphagnum and in a clay pot and
hung on a pot clip on the west side of our fence under a
crape myrtle tree where she gets morning sun. I water her
about once a week in the summer if she doesn’t get any rain
and less in the winter months. I feed her Orchid Plus and
Inoculaid. Her second blooms are huge and she has been
blooming since November.
Blc. Yen Surprise x Blc. Acapana ‘Miles’ - Greenwich
‘Elmhurst’ Grown by Sue Bottom
Page 9
Best of Show Table 2008
Terry Bottom
Grower Marv & Jan Ragan
C. mossiae var semi-alba
Terry Bottom
Terry Bottom
December 2008
Grower Harry McElroy
Paph. Belle Royale x Phrag Mem Dick Clements
Terry Bottom
Grower Mike & Kaycee Hienz
Den. Oriental Paradise (Evening Glow x Valiavilis)
Grower Sue Bottom
Lc. Lilac Dreams
Grower Lola Stark
Colm. Wildcat ‘Bobcat’
Terry Bottom
Terry Bottom
Grower Sue Bottom
Diacra Chantilly Lace ‘Twinkle’
Page 10
Best of Show Table 2008
Terry Bottom
Terry Bottom
Grower Courney Hackney
Blc. Goldenzelle x self
Grower Paul Jones
Encyclia alata
Terry Bottom
Grower Sue Bottom
C. Margaret Hort
December 2008
Grower Shirley ‘Daisy’ Thompson
Paph. appletonianum x
Paph. wolterianum
Terry Bottom
Grower Mike & Kaycee Heinz
Stanhopea tigrina
Terry Bottom
Grower Lola Stark
V. Trevor Rathbone
Terry Bottom
Terry Bottom
Grower Jeanette Pacetti
Lc. Color Guard ‘Hawaii’
Page 11
Best of Show Table 2008
Terry Bottom
Grower Harry & Celia McElroy
Cym Yellow Candy
Terry Bottom
Grower Sue Bottom
Blc. Yen Surprise x C Penny Kuroda ‘Spot’
Terry Bottom
Grower Marv & Jan Ragan
C. bowringiana var alba ‘Hamlyn’
Terry Bottom
Grower Sue Bottom
Blc. Ports of Paradise ‘Emerald Isle’ AM/AOS
Terry Bottom
Terry Bottom
Grower Mike & Kaycee Heinz
Blc. Goldenzelle ‘Taida’
December 2008
Grower Sue Bottom
Rhynchostylis coelestis
Page 12