shaker-style workbench

Transcription

shaker-style
workbench
© 2012 August Home Publishing Co.
Heirloom Project
shaker-style
Workbench
This traditional and solid design is as useful today as it was 200 years ago.
It has all the features you need for building great projects.
I’ve designed and built several
workbenches over the years, some
traditional and some more modern.
But when it comes to Old-World,
hand-tool craftsmanship, this very
traditional style is tough to beat.
This bench — inspired by the massive benches used by Shaker craftsmen — has sound construction, an
ample worksurface, and an easyaccess storage cabinet.
It’s also designed to hold just
about any size or shape of workpiece
1
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at whatever angle you need for sawing, planing, scraping, or sanding.
The tail vise and accompanying dog
holes can accommodate flat workpieces. The leg vise works in conjunction with a sliding board jack to
hold even the largest workpieces on
edge for work with a hand plane.
Whether you’re jointing an edge,
cutting dovetails, or surface planing
stock, this solid-wood bench will
absorb the forces of most hand-tool
operations without a wobble.
I used a combination of mortise and tenon joinery along with
a few long bolts to make sure the
base is sturdy enough for any task
or project. The bolts allow you to
periodically tighten things up to
eliminate racking.
On top of the rugged design, the
beautiful Douglas fir will inspire
your craftsmanship for years to
come. All in all, this bench will be
an indispensable tool and provide
generations of service.
©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 331⁄4"D x 90"L x 341⁄2"H
Benchtop is a lamination
of edge-grain strips ripped
from 8/4 stock
NOTE: Assembling
benchtop in sections allows
you to flatten each section
using a planer
NOTE: Square bench dog holes
are cut before assembling
the top (see page 8 for details)
xt
s
Updated tail vise
is easy to build
Cleat screwed to
upper rails fixes
benchtop in
position
4
Stretchers
attach to legs
with carriage
bolts, nuts,
and washers
Board jack supports
workpieces held
in the leg vise
6
Tenons on rails are
secured with pegs
Traditional leg vise is
built with off-the-shelf
hardware
Solid-wood track on front
rail and underside of front edge
of the benchtop allows board
jack to slide to any position
d
Chamfer softens the
corners while the
decorative lamb's tongue
adds another
traditional detail
Shop-made decorative
plate serves as a washer
for the carriage bolts
that connect the stretchers
to the rails
NOTE: Plans for the cabinet, shelf, and drawers
that fit below the top of the workbench
begin on page 15
NOTE: For information on where to find the
hardware necessary to build the bench,
see Sources on page 21
Contrasting walnut
pegs lock rail
tenons in mortises
{The tail vise features strong jaws,
{One way to personalize the bench is
{ A sliding board jack makes supporting
but it really shines when holding a
workpiece flat between bench dogs.
to add decorative stippling. The details
can be found on page 12.
long boards a snap. The peg can be
set for any width of workpiece.
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WS20028
This is callout text
NOTE: This is
a.
NOTE: All mortises in 3!/2" -square
legs are centered on width
3!/2
3%/8
B
A
31!/2
1
!/16
LEG
2#/4"
square
mortise
B
VISE
LEG
2!/4
c.
8&/8
This is !/16
callout text
NOTE: This is NOTE: All parts are
glued up from 8/4 stock
!/8" roundover on
bottom and side edges
starting with the Legs
17!/4
!/16
The first requirement for any
workbench is, of course, stability.
It needs to be able to stand up to
the weight of heavy projects, blows
from a mallet,
and the racking
Typical Plywood
endgrain
forces of hand planing.
(#/4" shown)
And while the solid-wood top
you’ll add later provides part of the
solution, it all starts with a sturdy
base. For that, I relied on heavy-duty
How-To: Mortise & Counterbore
NOTE: This is
17!/4
Pattern
bit
END
SECT.
VIEW Template
Waste
Mortise. Attach the template to the leg
with double-sided tape. Then use a plunge
router to rout the mortises.
3
Drill &/16"-dia.
through hole ,
centered on
mortise width
17!/4
Center
!/16 piece of
template is
width of mortise
BACK VIEW
If you cut them a little oversize,
it’s a simple matter to joint them
square and plane them to final
thickness and width.
Joinery. After the legs are cut and
squared up, you can turn your
attention to the joinery. But before
you begin, you’ll want to label
each leg according to its position.
No two legs are the same, so it’s
important to avoid confusion. I
also laid out the position of every
joint on the face of each leg while I
had them on the bench.
All of the legs have mortises for
both the upper and lower rails.
Forstner
bit
END
SECTION
VIEW
a.
A
17!/4
Lamb's tongue
and chamfer on
outside corner
of legs only
Drill 2"-dia.
counterbore
first, then
the 1!/8"-dia.
through hole
2#/16
A
3!/2
!/2
3!/2
A
LEG
1
!/16
a.
d.
legs, rails, and stretchers assembled
using mortise and tenon joinery.
I started work on the base by
building two rock-solid end assemblies. Although the left end needs to
accommodate the leg vise and has a
few different details, the construction of both is similar. Stretchers tie
the ends together.
Legs. The end assemblies begin
with a pair of legs. All but the left
front leg are 31⁄2" square. In order to
accommodate the leg vise, the left
front leg is wider (6").
I glued up 8/4 stock to attain the
necessary thickness for the legs.
Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
NOTE: This is
NOTE: This is
TOP SECTION
VIEW
Typical Plywood
endgrain
&/16"
2
(#/4"
shown)
dia.
12!/4
Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
SIDE
SECTION
VIEW
A
17!/4
A
1&/8"
dia.hole
Mortise is
!/2"deep
1
6!/2
1!/8
2
SIDE SECT.
VIEW
is callout text
3 This!/16
NOTE: This is
9%/8
1!/4
2#/16
17!/4
8!/4
!#/16"-dia.
through
hole
&/16
Mortise
is 2"
deep
A
NOTE: This is
3
31!/2
A
B
17!/4
5&/8
1#/4
2
2
3%/8
6
2
b.
3!/2
2
B
B
2" dia.
1!/8"
dia.
!/16
Drilling Bolt Holes. After routing
the stretcher mortises, drill the bolt
holes at the drill press.
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WS20028
Drilling the Counterbore. Drill the large
diameter hole first, then swap bits and
drill the through hole of the leg vise screw.
How-To: Lamb’s Tongue
And they also have mortises for the
stretchers. Because these mortises
are all quite long and deep, I used a This is callout text
NOTE: This is SECOND: Pull leg away from bit
plunge router to cut them.
1
when second layout line reaches
6!%/16
To guide the router, I made a
bit centerline
template for each mortise. This
Layout
technique guarantees they’re all
line
sized accurately. It also
leaves
very
4
This
is callout
text
B
text
smooth walls in the mortises
tois This is callout
NOTE: This
17!/4
NOTE: This
is
Centerline
ensure strong glue joints.
!/16 of bit
Round
Tall
Router Templates. There’s nothing
t text
aux.
his is
Hollow
fancy about the templates that I
fence
a.
END VIEW
made. All you need to do is use
!/2
some scrap wood or plywood 17!/4
to
!/2
1&/16"-dia.
assemble them. Just cut two pieces
17!/4 leg
chamfer
FIRST: Pivot
!/16
bit
into bit so!/16that top
to the width of the mortise and glue
layout line aligns
LAMB'S TONGUE
them
between
two
longer
pieces,
with bit centerline
17!/4
TEMPLATE
making
sure
to
size
the
opening
to
(full size)
!/16
match the mortise.
Stopped Chamfer. The key to accurate stopped chamfers is the
After laying out the location,
layout marks on the workpiece and the fence. After that, all you need
affix the template to the leg with
to do is match them up and hold the workpiece flat while routing.
double-sided tape and begin routThis is callout
text with a dado-cleanout bit,
ing. Start
2
3
NOTE: This is
Waste
Plywood
then switch to a pattern bit. The left Typical
endgrain
B
(#/4" shown)
drawing at the bottom of the previous page has the details. Take several
Use a chisel to
square up ends
shallow passes, increasing the depth
of chamfer
V-notch blocks
help to secure
after each one. Then clean up the corleg while
Lay template along
Typical Plywood
17!/4 a chisel.
ners using
chiseling
leg chamfer and leg
endgrain
Typical
Plywood
!/16
edge to trace lamb's
Lamb’s Tongue. Now, you
can
start
(#/4"
shown)
endgrain
tongue profile
This is callout
text
(#/4" shown)
on the lamb’s tongue chamfer on
NOTE: This is
wood
three of the legs. (The vise leg does
Square the Ends. You’ll need to clean up Lamb's Tongue Profile. Use the template
n
wn)
not share this profile.) For this, start
the ends of the chamfers with a chisel before above to trace the lamb’s tongue profile
by installing a chamfer bit in the
moving on to carving the lamb’s tongue.
onto the sides of the workpieces.
router table. I also marked the centerline of the bit on the fence. This
Work from
Take light cuts
417!/4
5
both sides to
to prevent tearout
way, you can make start and stop
shape hollow
!/16
marks on the leg blank to define
the length of the chamfer. You can
see what
the How-To box
This Iismean
calloutin
text
Chamfer
NOTE: This
is
at right. You’ll
complete
the lamb’s
Avoid marring
tongue with a chisel.
Waste
chamfer surface
BOlt Holes. At this point, I drilled
Typical Plywood
endgrain
the bolt holes in the stretcher morCarving
the Profile. Take light cuts and pay Completing the Rough-Out. Make the
NOTE: This is
(#/4" shown)
tises on the back legs. By drilling
attention to the grain direction as you rough last few paring cuts with the grain and
them now, you 17!/4
can use the drill
out the profile with bench or paring chisels.
check the profile from both sides.
press to keep them
straight
and
!/16
make sure they’re centered on the
6
7
width of the mortises.
17!/4
As you can see in the right drawHand sand
!/16
round to smooth
ing on page 3, I also routed anotherTypical Plywood
surface
square mortise to hold the vise hard- endgrain
(#/4" shown)
Use a dowel with sandpaper
ware on the back side of the leg. Then
Refine the hollow
to clean up hollow
with a carving knife
I drilled holes in the vise leg for the
vise screw and threaded rod. The
lower hole needs to be counterbored
Refining the Shape. A carving knife is the Sanding. If necessary, wrap a small piece
for the knurled knob. For this, I just
perfect tool for cleaning up the chiseled of 220-grit sandpaper around a 1⁄2"-dia.
used a Forstner bit.
surfaces and refining the profile.
dowel for the final cleanup.
4
Typical Plywood
endgrain
WoodsmithPlans.com
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Notch cut
at front end
of rail only
#/8"-dia. x 3"
walnut
dowel
UPPER RAIL
1 NOTE: This is
22
26
xt
s
3
6!/4
1
17!/4
1
1
16
NOTE: Rails are made
from 1#/4"-thick stock
c.
10!/2
17
NOTE: This is
NOTE:
Rip This is
fence
#/8
d.
C
Leg
D
Dowel
sits !/16"
proud
of leg
surface
to form a long tongue. This
tongue fits into a dado you’ll cut
in the benchtop later. I cut the rabbets using the dado blade in the
table saw by attaching an auxiliary
rip fence and burying part of the
blade. Then, it’s a simple matter to
cut perfect rabbets. The left drawing at the bottom of the next page
shows the details.
Stretcher Mortise. The lower rail has
a shallow mortise in order to hold
Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
Tall aux.
miter fence
C
Aux. rip
fence
END VIEW
NOTE: This is 17!/4
!/16
#/8
17!/4 Plywood
Typical
!/16endgrain
edge
shows (#/4"
howshown)
a.
END VIEW
2
C
1
FRONT
SECTION
VIEW
How-To: Tenons & Notches
NOTE: This isa.
#/4"dado
blade
#/8
4!/2
NOTE: This is
NOTE:
Tenons are
17!/4
pinned in mortises
!/16 with #/8"-dia. x 3"
walnut dowels
Once you’ve completed the four legs,
Tenons. The box below
it’s time to get busy on the rails and I cut the tenons using a dado blade
stretchers. The rails connect each pair and a long auxiliary fence on the
of legs and form the end subassem- miter gauge. I also set the rip fence
blies. After that, you’ll connect the to match the length of the tenon.
two ends with the three stretchers.
Now you can cut the tenons by raisRails. As you can see in the drawing the blade to sneak up on a snug
ing above, the two rails are dif- fit in the mortises you cut in the legs
Plywood
earlier.
Then cut the small notch in
ferent widths, but both need a Typical
endgrain
theshown)
upper rails (detail ‘a’).
1"-thick x 2"-long tenon. You can (#/4"
start by cutting both rails to final
Cut the Rabbet. You’ll notice that the
length and width.
upper rails are rabbeted on the top
C
17!/4
1#/4
!/16
6!/4
Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
Rip
fence
#/8
2!/4
NOTE: This is
#/4"-dia. x #/4"-deep
hole to store board
jack peg
completing the
Base Frame d
8!/4
!/2
Drill #/8"-dia. x
2!%/16"-deep hole
for dowel pins
after assembly
LOWER
RAIL
D
C
D
!/16
/4
#/8
#/8
1#/4
9
D
!/2
4!/8 This is
NOTE:
!/4
&/16"-dia.
hole
#/8
b.
2
!/2
C
C
4!/2
a.
Add !/16" chamfer around
end of dowels before inserting
2
a.
END VIEW
!/4
!/2
#/8
17!/4
!/16
Tenons. With a long auxiliary fence on the
miter gauge and the rip fence used as a
stop, cut the 17!/4
tenons using a dado blade.
!/16
5
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Shoulder Cuts. You can use the
same
blade and fence setup to make
17!/4
the shoulder cuts on the tenons.
!/16
WS20028
Upper Rail Notch. Install an auxiliary
rip fence and bury part of the dado
blade to cut the notch in the upper rail.
BACK STRETCHER
#/8"-dia. x 8"
carriage bolt
E
4
57
58
the center stretcher. The box below
textthe process. I
walks This
youis callout
through
NOTE: This is
made a template
and routed out the
waste, then squared up the mortise
with a chisel. Finish up by drilling
the holes for the bolts.
At this point, you can dry fit the
rails into the legs 17!/4
and clamp every!/16 making sure
thing in position. After
everything is square, drill the holes
for the dowel pins at the positions
shown in the main drawing and detail
‘d’ on the previous page. Remove the
clamps and cut the walnut dowels to
length. Brush glue in the mortises, on
the tenons, and on the dowels, then
assemble the ends.
NOTE: Back and center stretchers are
attached with #/8"-dia. x 8"carriage
bolts, nuts, and washers
7
CENTER
STRETCHER
3
F
58#/4
Shop made
aluminum
plate, refer
to page 19
59#/4
54!/2
NOTE: Stretchers
are made from 8/4 stock
b.
#/8
Stretchers
This isend
callout
text
The two
assemblies
are joined
NOTE: This is
with three
stretchers: One at the
back, one
at the
front, and one cenTypical
Plywood
endgrain
tered on the
lower rails. While the
(#/4" shown)
mortise and tenon joints on the end
rails are glued, the stretchers are
17!/4 bolts. This is a
joined using long
!/16 for periodically
great way to allow
tightening up the base.
Rip to Width. The stretchers are
made from 13⁄4"-thick stock ripped
to the widths shown in the drawing
above. After ripping them, cut each
one to final length.
Each stretcher also requires a 1⁄2"long tenon on both ends. While all
are the same length and thickness,
you’ll note that the tenons on the
FRONT
STRETCHER
Aluminum plate
c.
!/8"
roundover
17!/4
This#/8is callout
!/16text
!/2 This is a.
NOTE:
!/16
upper back stretcher are a little different. There is no shoulder cut on
the upper edge. Instead, this edge
of the tenon 17!/4
sits flush with the top of
the leg (detail ‘d’).
!/16
Pockets. The back and center
stretchers have another feature —
D-shaped pockets in the back. These
pockets hold the nuts and washers
for the bolts (details ‘b’ and ‘c’). To
cut the pockets to shape, I made
Typical
Plywood
another
router template, as shown
endgrain
in
the
right
(#/4" shown) drawing below.
2
F
Lower
rail
TOP SECTION VIEW
1#/4
4
1!/2
17!/4
Back leg
E
Back
leg
NOTE: This is
G
NOTE: Front stretcher is
assembled without glue
d.
TOP SECTION VIEW
1#/4
5!/2
1!/2
Lower
rail
#/8This is
NOTE:
#/8
G
55!/2
1!/4
1!/4
E
F
BACK VIEW
Plates. As a finishing touch, I made
decorative plates for the ends of
the center rail. (Details in Shop
Notebook on page 19.) The bolts fit
through the plates.
Assembly. Now it’s time to assemble the base. Just fit the stretchers
into the mortises (without using
glue) and drill the holes into the
end grain of the stretchers using
the holes in the rails as your guide.
Typical Plywood
Then
add the nuts, bolts, and washendgrain
(#/4"to
shown)
ers
complete the assembly.
{The decorative
plate also serves
as a washer.
Rabbets, Mortise, & Pockets
NOTE: This is
Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
NOTE: This is
17!/4
Aux.
fence
C
Clean
up corners
with chisel
a.
END
VIEW
!/16
Thisblade
is callout text
#/4"dado
!/2
NOTE: This is
17!/4
#/8
!/2
D
1
Template
END SECTION VIEW
WS20028
Typical Plywood
endgrain
Template
#/4" radius
D
Stretcher Mortise. Attach the template
to the lower
rail with double-sided tape
17!/4
and rout the
stretcher
mortise.
!/16
WoodsmithPlans.com
Plunge
router with
pattern bit
!/16
a.
NOTE: This is
Rabbets. Using the auxiliary rip
17!/4
fence again, cut the long rabbets to
!/16
form the tongue on the upper rail.
6
!/2" dado
clean-out
bit
a.
Template
F
B
END
1!/2 SECT.
VIEW
1#/4
F
1!/2
Clean up
corners with
chisel
NOTE: Rout pocket
in multiple passes
Stretcher Pockets. The bearing on a pattern
bit follows the template to rout the pockets in
the back and center stretchers.
NOTE: Top sections are made
from 1#/4"-thick hardwood, ripped
into 3!/8"widths and turned on their side
to expose straight edge grain
NOTE: Benchtop
is glued up in sections to
allow planing prior
to final assembly
H
BENCHTOP
17!/4
a.
5#/4
!!/16
!/16
H
H
TOP VIEW
2
12
1!/16
Benchdog
holes
3#/4
86!/2
b.
H
1
80#/4
85°
3!/2
!/2
1
J
!/2
59!/2
1
I
TAIL
VISE
SECTION
70
!/4
!#/16
7!/4
J
70
Typical Plywood
BENCH DOG
This endgrain
is callout text
STRIP
(#/4"
shown)
NOTE:
This is
NOTE: Bench dog section and back strip
of benchtop are glued on after cutting the
dadoes on the underside of the benchtop
NOTE: Finished width
of top is 29#/4"
NOTE: See Shop
Notebook, page 16, for
more information about
routing bench dog holes
c.
H
building the Top 1
1!/4
!/2
17!/4
NOTE: This is
FRONT SECTION VIEW
3#/4
2
!/2
FRONT SECTION VIEW
!/16
As I said earlier, mass is important
in a workbench. And this laminated,
solid-wood top provides mass in
spades. Assembling the top in nar17!/4
rower sections
is the way to go. This
!/16 allows you to make a few
method also
preparations for the tail vise assembly.
Prepare the Blanks. The first step in
a successful glueup is to start with
properly planed and square blanks.
The strips will be turned on their
sides to expose the edge grain in the
Typical
Plywood
assembled top, so by
planing
both
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
sides you effectively joint the edges
that will be glued up. Remember,
you’ll be planing the assembled sections later, so don’t cut the pieces to
final width or length yet. This gives
you the option of cutting off any
checking or planer snipe and planing the sections to final thickness.
Rip the Strips. I started at the table
saw with a good rip blade. Just set
the rip fence and rip the stock into
18 strips (this gives you one extra to
help out with grain matching).
Lay Out the Strips. Now you can
arrange the strips for the best
appearance. Once you have a layout you like, mark the top so you
can reassemble the strips in order.
(I used a triangle mark as shown in
the center drawing below.)
Gluing up SubAssemblies. The main
drawing shows how I grouped the
strips into subassemblies. The idea
is to glue up each subassembly, then
flatten and thickness them by running them through the planer.
How-To: Build the Laminated Benchtop
Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
Outfeed
support
NOTE: This is
a.
Rip blade
A large triangle
allows you to
reassemble the
stripsis in
ordertext
This
callout
NOTE: This is
3!/8
17!/4
END
VIEW
!/16
Ripping. Rip the individual strips a little
bit wide. This allows you to plane the
glued-up sections to final width.
7
Grain Matching. Experiment with differ17!/4 patterns until you’re
ent color and grain
!/16 the final positions.
satisfied, then mark
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WS20028
Planing. After gluing up the sections,
scrap off the glue squeezeout and run
each section through the planer.
NOTE: If you plan to add the drawer
cabinet on page 15, don't attach
the benchtop to the base at this time
29#/4
86!/2
Finally, assemble them all to form
the full-sized benchtop. All this contributes to an easy final assembly of
just a few joints.
I started by breaking the main
part of the benchtop into three sections of four or five pieces each. (I
left the outside piece off for now.)
I also glued up another, shorter section for the tail vise.
Before you get started, let me give
you a piece of advice. When gluing
up multiple segments, the key to success is to be thoroughly prepared.
Dry assemblies, including laying
out the clamps, help everything go
according to plan.
With your clamps and cauls in
place, assemble each section
with
NOTE: This
is
is callout
text
glue. After the glueThis
dries,
remove
Thisand
is
the squeezeout with a NOTE:
scraper
head over to the planer.
Dadoes. The next step is to rout the
dadoes on the underside of each sec17!/4
tion. You can see how I did it in the
!/16
drawings below. I started with17!/4
the
wider dado on the end of the outside
!/16
section that holds the flange block
for the tail vise. After that, you can
glue up the main slab and rout the
two dadoes on the main section to fit
over cleats attached to the base.
The Dog Holes. The tail vise will line
up with a series of square dog holes
in the benchtop. I routed the dog
holes using a simple template and
H
5!/4
16!/2
LEFT CLEAT
K
22&/8
J
BENCH DOG
SECTION
#8 x 2!/2"
Fh woodscrew
a.
Back holes in
cleats enlongated
to allow top
expansion
23#/4
L
TOP SECTION VIEW
(Top removed)
Right back
leg
Back stretcher
b.
2%/8
1!/8
K
NOTE:1!/2
This is
Upper
left rail
24!/2
#8 x 2"
Fh woodscrew
!/4"
roundover
!/4"-dia.
hole
c.
1!/2
H
RIGHT CLEAT
Dadoes in
top fit over
top of rails
1
&/8
16#/8
TOP SECTION VIEW
(Top removed)
17!/4
&/8
Right
upper
rail
L
3!/4
Vise leg
!/4
!/2
Upper
rail
L
FRONT
SECTION
VIEW
!/16
pattern bit. For the details on this
quick and easy template, turn to
Shop Notebook on page 20.
Final Assembly. For the final assembly, simply spread glue on the edges
of each section and clamp them all
together. I also used clamps with
cauls spanning the width of the
assembly to help keep each joint
aligned. After the glue dries, scrap
off the squeezeout and clean up the
top. Then you can cut the assembled
benchtop to final length.
Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
Dadoes & Dog Holes
Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
Typical
Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
NOTE: This is
BENCHTOP
Cleats. With the top complete, you
can turn your attention to the two
cleats that help secure the top to the
base. You don’t need to add glue in
the benchtop dadoes or on the tenons on the base. The cleats attach to
the rails and reinforce the joint. You
can see the elongated screw holes
in detail ‘b’ that allow the wood to
move. After cutting the cleats to
length, all you need to do is cut the
rabbets and drill the screw holes.
Then attach them to the rails.
NOTE: This is
Guide
fence
Guide
Pattern
bit
H
17!/4
at text
17!/4 ThisFlush
is callout
ends This is
NOTE:
!/16
!/16
NOTE: This is
a.
!/2"
straight bit
2
!/2
END
17!/4VIEW
Strips are
cut flush
at ends
J
Dog hole
template
a.
a.
!/2"
straight
bit
!/2
1
H
END
VIEW
Template
SECTION VIEW
NOTE: For more
on making this
jig, see page 20
!!/16
J
!/16
Wide Dado. Mark the location of the
dado, then clamp a pair of guides to the
underside of the top to rout the dado.
8
17!/4
Narrow Dado. Use the same technique
!/16
to rout the narrow dado that fits on the
tongues on the end assemblies.
WoodsmithPlans.com
WS20028
Dog Holes. Once again, I relied on a template
and a pattern bit to rout the recesses that
will hold the bench dog.
Typical Plywood
1#/4
a.
3!/2
N
TAIL VISE
TOP BLOCK
TAIL VISE N
SIDE BLOCK
20
Dog holes
spaced 5#/4"
center-tocenter
%/8
%/8
%/8
O
P
3!/2
Q
4#/8
2%/8
FILLER
STRIP
1!/4
2
3
1!/8" I.D.
rubber O-ring
7!/2
1!/4
4!/2
U
FLANGE
BLOCK
4#/8
18#/4
M
3
TAIL VISE
END BLOCK
GUIDE
T
RAIL END
GUIDE
!/2" -dia.
STRIP
hole through
!/2" x 16!/2"- !/4"
Baltic birch
plywood
S
#/8
1!/4
#/4" -dia. x #/4"deep hole
centered on
end of dowel
1!/8" -dia. x 3"deep hole
2
1!/8" -dia.
through hole
4
4!/2
2
3!/8
10!/2
1!/2" -dia.
knurled knob
#6 x #/4" Fh
woodscrew
2%/8
3!/2
1!/8"-dia.
vise screw
1#/4
1!/4
1#/4
12
M
%/8
%/8
%/8
TAIL VISE
FRONT BLOCK
16!/2
#/8"-dia. x 4"
lag bolt
with washer
b.
2
R
GUIDE
RAIL SIDE
1!/8" -dia. x 12"
hardwood dowel
N
2#/4
adding the Tail Vise
END SECTION VIEW
Tail vise assembly attached
through flange block
into dado of benchtop
%/8
O
#/4
U
2
T
R
S
Start with the Basics. The tail vise end
and side blocks define the shape and
size of the vise, so they’re the first
order of business. For the end block
17!/4
I laminated 8/4 stock, then cut the
!/16
block to final size and drilled the
11⁄8"-dia. hole for the vise screw.
Dog Holes. The side block also
houses three dog holes that point the
2!/2
10!/8
NOTE: This is
One of the features I was determined
to include on this bench was a classic
tail vise. This type of vise is very versatile, especially for hand-tool work.
A tail vise can hold workpieces flat
between a pair of bench dogs, and
the opening in the vise jaws can be
used to hold awkward shapes and
long workpieces vertically.
Benchtop
dado
opposite direction from holes in the
benchtop. I routed these using the
same basic template, but reversed
the angle of the slots.
Finger Joints. The vise body calls for
a tough joint. I chose to use a finger
joint here because it offers so much
glue surface. Turn to Shop Notebook
on page 19 for more details.
How-To: Make the Flange Block
1#/4"
Forstner
bit
10!/8
Aux.
miter
fence
Typical Plywood
#/4" dado endgrain
blade (#/4" shown)
a.
U
2#/4
2
Drill. After the mounting holes are
drilled, install a Forstner bit and drill the
large-diameter hole for the flange.
END VIEW
2#/4
#/8
&/16
Waste shown for
NOTE: Drill through
proper part
entire workpiece
orientation
9
B
Dado. With an auxiliary fence on the miter
gauge, nibble away the waste to create a
square recess for the flange.
WoodsmithPlans.com
WS20028
2!/2
Rip
fence
U
Dado
blade
a.
Aux.
miter
fence
END VIEW
2
#/8
Notch & Rabbet. First cut the notch for
the guide rail, then flip the block over and
cut the long rabbet on the opposite face.
Top Block. The next piece to add
is the top block. It’s the piece that
rides on a guide strip attached to
the benchtop. After cutting it to
size, Itext
cut the long groove on the
This is callout
edge
at
NOTE: This isthe table saw with a dado
blade (Figure 1).
To keep the top block aligned
s is callout with
text the end block during assemNOTE: This
is I added a dowel. Just drill a hole
bly,
in the17!/4
top block, then use a dowel
center to transfer the position to the
!/16
end block (Figure 2). Now glue the
top block in place.
17!/4Front Block. The front block houses
the
!/16 end of the vise screw. All you
need to do here is drill the hole
for the end of the screw. Glue it
flush with the front edges of the
side block and top block. Figure 3
shows
how I added a filler strip to
NOTE: This is
cover the dog holes.
Guide Rail. A guide rail assembly
NOTE: This
is
completes the moving
portion
of
the vise. It’s simply an L-shaped
Typical
Plywood
bracket
that fits on the underside.
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
I used a bridle17!/4
joint to connect the
!/16 of the rail (Figside and end pieces
ures
4
and
5).
Then,
mark17!/4
the locapical Plywood
tion
of
the
end
and
front
blocks
endgrain
!/16 and
NOTE: This is
(#/4" shown)
cut the rabbets.
After assembling the guide rail,
attach it to the end block and the
front block with screws (no glue), as
shown in Figure 6.
17!/4 I made a guide strip for
GUide Strip.
his is callout
text
!/16 of Baltic birch plywood.
the
vise out
NOTE: This is
After cutting it to size, just drill the
countersunk screw holes as shown.
Then, attach the guide strip to the
benchTypical
using Plywood
screws.
endgrain
Vise Handles. I made a pair of cus(#/4" shown)
17!/4 vise handles from 11⁄8"-dia.
tom
Typical Plywood
!/16 dowel. You’ll
maple
need to drill a
endgrain
3⁄ "-dia hole in the(#/4"
shown)
ends of the dowel
4
for the knobs.
You can find out more about the
knobs and other hardware that
I used for the bench under the
Sources
on page 21.
Typical
Plywood
endgrain
Block. TheThis
flange
blocktext
holds
is callout
(#/4"Flange
shown)
the flange for the vise
screw.
NOTE:
This is The
box on the previous page shows
how to make the block. Install the
flange with screws (Figure 7), then
use lag screws to attach the block to
the benchtop in the 2"-wide
dado
Typical Plywood
17!/4
endgrain
you cut earlier.
!/16
(#/4" shown)
10
How-To: Build the Tail Vise
1
2
N
O
Dowel
center
This is callout
O text
NOTE: This isa.
Rip
fence
END VIEW
Top of top block
flush with top
edge of side block
O
%/8
M
!/2
!/4" dado
blade
!/4
17!/4
!/16
Top Block. Cut the centered groove on
the top block by making the first cut,
then flipping the block for a second pass.
Dowel Hole. First drill a hole for the dowel
in the top block. Then use a dowel center to
transfer the hole location to the end block.
N
3
4
a.
!/4
END
VIEW
R
O
NOTE:
This is
M
P
Q
Q
End of filler strip fits
into inside corner
17!/4of end
Typical
Plywood
and
side blocks
endgrain !/16
(#/4" shown)
Tall aux.
fence
2
O
!/4
Sides of filler block
and front block are
glued to inside face
of side block
Rip
blade
Front Block & Filler Strip. In addition to
housing the vise screw, the front block and filler
strip cover the edges of the dog holes.
5
Aux. miter
fence
Bridle Joint. Install a tall, auxiliary rip
fence and use a push block to cut the
groove in the end of the side guide rail.
6
#8 X 1!/2" Fh
woodscrew
S
O
O
a.
END VIEW
2
!/4
NOTE: This is
Rip
fence
Dado
blade
NOTE: Guide rail is
just screwed in
place (no glue)
M
Q
R
N
!/2
!/4
S
P
Typical Plywood
endgrain
shown)
Bridle(#/4"
Joint
Tongue.
1#/4
Sneak up on a
snug-fitting tongue by slowly raising
the
17!/4
dado blade between passes. !/16
7
8
Flange fits
in dado
flush at top
and bottom
U
FLANGE BLOCK
Attach Flange to Block. Carefully fit
the flange into the recess
and secure it
17!/4
Typical
Plywood
in position with screws.endgrain
!/16
(#/4" shown)
WS20028
Vise screw bracket attached
with #8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscews
Flange
M
NOTE: This is
#10 x 1!/2"
Fh woodscrew
WoodsmithPlans.com
Attaching the Guide Rail. Predrill and
countersink holes for #8 screws and then attach
the guide rail to main body of the tail vise.
Vise
screw
P
U
NOTE: Flange
block screwed
to underside
of benchtop
R
S
#/8" x 4" lag
screws with washers
Final Steps. All that remains is to add the vise
screw bracket and handle before attaching the
flange block to the bench.
a.
1" radius
6
3!/2
!/8"-thick leather
pad cut-to-fit
#10 x 1!/2" Fh NOTE: This is
woodscrew
b.
LEG VISE
2!/2
1!/8"-dia.
vise screw
8&/8
17!/4
1!/8"-dia.
hole
Vise
plate
!/16
!/2"
radius
s callout text
NOTE: This is
Flange bolt
with screws
1!/8"-dia. x 12"
hardwood dowel
25!/4
c.
Vise leg
Mortise
for
square
nut
!/16
#/4"-10 x 13"
This is callout textthreaded rod
NOTE: This is
1!/8" I.D.
rubber o-ring
#/4
#/4"-10 x 3"
knurled
knob
#/4"-dia.
hole
1&/8
SIDE SECTION
VIEW
cal Plywood
ndgrain
4" shown)
Flange
#8 x 1!/2" Fh
woodscrew
!/2
17!/4
V
V
6
SIDE
SECTION
VIEW
Leather
pad
Vise
leg
1!/2"-dia.
knurled knob
Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
3
1!/2"-dia.
counterbore
Threaded
rod
!/16
Square Depth of
nut
washer
V
Cap
nut
SIDE
SECTION
VIEW
17!/4
#/4"-10
square nut
#/4"-10
cap nut
with washer
FRONT VIEW
installing the Leg Vise
Up to this point, the traditional
workbench bears a striking resemblance to a more modern design.
That’s no surprise since the needs
of a woodworker today are largely
the same as they ever were. But the
addition of the leg vise leaves no
doubt that this is a departure from
the modern world.
Vise leg
Knurled
knob
The leg vise is really just a lever,
with an adjustable pivot point at the
bottom and a moveable jaw on top.
Both rely on threaded steel rods.
The combination
provides plenty of
Typical
Plywood
endgrain
holding
power.
(#/4" shown)
In addition to the workbench's
practicality, I also wanted to add a
unique feature to make it stand apart
from other benches — a stippled
pattern on the face. For this, I used a
rotary tool, a few different bits, and
a fair amount of patience. The Shop
Tip on the next page has the details.
Vise Face. Once you’ve drilled the
holes in the leg for the vise hardware, you can get to work on the
vise face. After gluing up and cutting the blank to size, the next
step is to drill the holes for the
two vise screws and threaded rod.
The How-To box below walks you
through the process. You’ll also
need to chisel out a square mortise
for the nut in the lower hole.
How-To: Build the Leg Vise
is callout text
NOTE: This is
Back of leg vise
#/4"
This is callout
text
Forstner
NOTE:
bit This is
17!/4
Chisel mortise to
fit square nut
Leg vise
blank
Vise side profile
layout line
!/16
11
Vise
back
Leg vise
blank
17!/4 of
Depth
square
!/16nut
17!/4
NOTE: Drill!/16holes
through blank
Drilling. Use the holes in the vise leg to
position the matching holes in the vise,
then drill them out using a Forstner bit.
Cut to
waste
side of
layout line
a.
NOTE: This SIDE
is
SECTION
VIEW
Hole for a Square Nut. The next step is
to chisel out a square hole for the large nut
on the back side of the vise.
WoodsmithPlans.com
WS20028
Inside Face. Cut the curves of the vise at
the band saw. Start with the inside face,
ending in a tight curve at the jaw.
Shop Tip: Stippling the Vise
Shaping. With that done, you can
start shaping the vise. As you
can see, it’s curved on the outside
face, tapered on both sides, and
Use a veining
bit to cut a
recessed on the inside to create the
shallow V-notch
protruding jaw. I did most of this
on field border
NOTE: This#/4
is
layout line
work at the band saw.
In order to make sure you have a
Lay vise
flat surface to rest on the band saw
Layout
plate and
line
table, you’ll
need
to
make
the
cuts
in
washer
#/4
in place to
the sequenceNOTE:
shown
below.
I
started
This is
lay out
17!/4 border
by working on the inside face. With
curves
!/16
the piece on edge, all you need to do
Border. It pays to experiment on a piece
is make a straight cut, curving at the
of scrap to get a feel for the veining bit.
#/4
end near the jaw (right drawing at
Then use it to carve the border.
the bottom of the previous page).
17!/4
%/32"-dia.
The box below shows the
ball
!/16
bit
sequence and techniques for shapThis is callout text
is callout
ing the rest of the leg vise.This
Note
that text
NOTE: This is
the area near the vise screw NOTE:
fittingThis is
stays flat. With the cuts completed,
you can feather in the curves with
a little sanding. After cutting the
Start by
Fill in space between
making largest dimples
tapers, I glued a piece of leather to
previous dimples using
17!/4 randomly spaced
!/8"-dia. ball bit
the jaw to protect workpieces held 17!/4
!/16
in the vise.
!/16
Typical PlywoodStart Large. Begin in Go Small. Move to
endgrain
a corner with the large the smaller bit to fill in
Stippling. Stippling is simply addshown) 5
FRONT(#/4"
VIEW
( ⁄32"-dia.) bit first.
ing a textured look to a field by
some of the spaces.
carving dimples. It’s an easy thing
I started by defining the border I began by attaching the flange
to do, but adds an interesting
Typical
Plywood
with a veining bit. The top draw- for the vise screw into the back of
detail to the
vise.
endgrain
Rotary tool.
used a rotary tool ing in the Shop Tip shows how to the leg. It’s held in place with four
(#/4"I shown)
to do the carving. The great thing do this. After completing the border, screws. Next, mount the knurled
about these tools is the wide array it was just a matter of creating the knob in the lower hole of the leg.
of small bits available for this kind random textured pattern with the After that, it’s just a matter of
threading the rods through and
of work. I relied on just three ball 1⁄32"-dia. and the 1⁄8"-dia. bit.
mill bits to get the look shown in
screwing the vise plate to the vise
Mounting the Vise. The final step
the photo at right.
is to attach the vise to the leg. and the cap nut below.
{Stippling adds
an interesting
visual detail to
the leg vise.
Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
Shaping the Leg Vise
NOTE: This is
NOTE: This is
SECTION
VIEW
Layout
line
17!/4
1!/2"
Forstner
bit
!/16
17!/4
NOTE: Sand
surfaces smooth
after cutting
Use doublesided tape to
attach spacer
to inside
face of vise
Outside. Cut the sweeping arcs of the
outside face. Stop each cut at the flat spot
surrounding the vise screw.
12
WoodsmithPlans.com
!/16
Spacer holds workpiece level
Sides. Attach a spacer to the cutout area in
the inside face to hold the workpiece level. This
makes cutting out the sides a snap.
WS20028
Counterbore to
depth of washer
thickness
Bottom Screw Hole. Use a
Forstner bit to drill a shallow
counterbore for the washer.
!/4
a.
NOTE: If building optional tool
cabinet, install board jack
after adding cabinet
3" radius
1
This is callout text 3
NOTE: This is
54!/2
10
&/8"
radius
NOTE: Board jack
is made from
#/4"-thick stock
&/8
FRONT
VIEW
Soften
edges
17!/4
BOARD JACK
!/16
X
21#/16
W
4
W
Board jack
peg
4
NOTE: This is
!/4
!/8"
chamfer
17!/4
!/8"
roundover
d.
W
W
Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
17!/4
To
get the most out of your leg vise
and!/16bench, there’s one more thing to
add — a board jack.
It’s a very simple and
Typical
Plywood device
traditional
endgrain
used
to
support long
(#/4" shown)
workpieces held in
the leg vise, usually
for edge jointing. The
Typical Plywood
board jack slides on
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
rails, allowing you to
position it to accom{A handy spot to
modate just about any
store the board
size workpiece.
jack peg.
Right
front
leg
#/8
Board jack
peg
#/4"
dia.
!/16
Bench
top
%/16
SIDE SECTION
VIEW
W
adding the
Board Jack
NOTE: This is
SIDE SECTION
!/16" VIEW
X
roundover
8
b.
2!/2
c.
#/8
NOTE: Board jack peg
17!/4is made from 1!/8"-dia.
!/16hardwood dowel
3!/8
2!/2
#6 x #/4" Fh
woodscrews
BOARD JACK
RAIL
NOTE: This is
#/4"-dia.
hole
5!/8
2!/4
#/4
#/8
X
2!/2
#/16
Body. After cutting the blank to
size, you’ll need to cut a centered
groove on both ends of the workpiece. These grooves fit over two
rails on the bench. I installed a dado
blade in the table saw and a tall auxiliary fence to the rip fence to support the blank. For more details,
check out the box below.
After drilling the holes for the peg,
you can cut the board jack to shape at
the band saw. Install the board jack
by positioning it in the opening in
the front of the bench. Then, attach
%/16
SIDE SECTION
VIEW
Front
stretcher
the rails with screws. To make the
board jack peg, refer to Shop Notebook on page 20.
After adding a couple coats of oil
and a light coat of wax to the top
of the bench, it’s ready to be put to
work. But if you want to add some
drawers and a shelf for handy storage, then check out the cabinet plans
starting on page 15.
Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
How-To: Make the Board Jack
NOTE: This is
NOTE: This is
Tall
aux.
fence
a.
Board
jack
blank
17!/4
!/16
Aux.
fence
END
VIEW
17!/4
#/16
!/16
#/8
#/4"
Forstner
bit
W
BOARD JACK
Board jack
blank
%/16
Cut to waste
side of
layout line
!/4" dado
blade
Grooves. Cut the centered grooves with
a dado blade by making the first pass
slightly off center, then flipping the blank.
13
WoodsmithPlans.com
Peg Holes. By staggering the position
of the peg holes, you make sure the jack
can accommodate any size workpiece.
WS20028
Final Shape. The decorative shape of the
jack consists of just a few simple cuts on the
band saw. Finish up with a little sanding.
Materials & Supplies
31⁄2 x 31⁄2 - 311⁄2
31⁄2 x 6 - 311⁄2
13⁄4 x 41⁄2 - 26
13⁄4 x 9 - 26
13⁄4 x 4 - 58
13⁄4 x 7 - 593⁄4
13⁄4 x 3 - 551⁄2
3 x 241⁄2 - 861⁄2
3 x 31⁄2 - 70
13⁄4 x 3 - 70
1
1 ⁄2 x 1 - 227⁄8
11⁄2 x 1 - 233⁄4
31⁄2 x 43⁄8 - 101⁄2
13⁄4 x 43⁄8 - 20
13⁄4 x 31⁄2 - 161⁄2
25⁄8 x 31⁄2 - 41⁄2
3
⁄8 x 25⁄8 - 12
3⁄ x 2 - 183⁄
4
4
3
⁄4 x 2 - 71⁄2
1⁄ x 1⁄ - 161⁄
4
2
2
2 x 23⁄4 - 101⁄8
31⁄2 x 6 - 251⁄4
A Legs (3)
B Vise Leg (1) C Upper Rails (2) D Lower Rails (2) E Back Stretcher (1)
F Center Stretcher (1)
G Front Stretcher (1)
H Main Bench Slab (1)
I
Tail Vise Section(1)
J
Bench Dog Section (1)
K Left Cleat (1)
L
Right Cleat (1)
M Tail Vise End Block (1)
N Tail Vise Side Block (1)
O Tail Vise Top Block (1)
P Tail Vise Front Block (1)
Q Tail Vise Filler Strip (1) R Guide Rail Side (1) S Guide Rail End (1) T Guide Strip (1)
8/4 x 7 1/4
Vertical Grain
Ux 96Flange
BlockFir(1)
V Leg Vise (1)
W
X
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
3
Board Jack (1)
⁄4 x 8 - 213⁄16
1
Board Jack Rails (2)
⁄4 x 3⁄8 - 541⁄2
(1pc.) 12" x 12" Leather
(1) 11⁄2" x 12" - 1⁄8"-Thick Aluminum Plate
(6) 3⁄8"-dia. x 8" Carriage Bolts w/ Nuts & Washers
(2) 11⁄8"-dia. Vise Screws
(1) 3⁄4"-10 x 36" Threaded Rod
(2) 3⁄8"-dia. x 36" Walnut Dowel
(8) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews
(14) #8 x 11⁄2" Fh Woodscrews
(2) 3⁄8"-dia. x 4" Lag Screws w/ Washers
(17) #6 x 3⁄4” Fh Woodscrews
(8) #10 11⁄2” Fh Woodscrews
(1) 11⁄8"-dia. x 36" Maple Dowel
(4) 11⁄2"-dia. Knurled Knobs
(4) 11⁄8"-Inside Diameter Rubber O-Rings
(2) Square Bench Dogs
(1) 3⁄4"-10 x 3" Knurled Knob
(1) 3⁄4" Flat Washer
(1) 3⁄4"-10 Cap Nut
(1) 3⁄4"-10 Square Nut
(1) 1⁄2"-dia. x 3" Hardwood Dowel
Cutting Diagram
1#/4" x 7!/4"- 96" Fir (9.7 Bd. Ft.)
A
A
A
A
A
A
1#/4" x 7!/4"- 96" Fir (9.7 Bd. Ft.)
ut text
This is
P
C
B
B
P
1#/4" x 9!/4"- 96" Fir (12.3 Bd. Ft.)
O
C
D
D
M
M
N
17!/4
1#/4" x 7!/4"- 96" Fir (7 Boards @ 9.7 Bd. Ft. each)
H
!/16
H
1#/4"x 7!/4"- 96" Fir (9.7 Bd. Ft.)
H
J
1#/4" x 7!/4"- 96" Fir (9.7 Bd. Ft.)
I
I
V
1#/4" x 7!/4"- 96" Fir (9.7 Bd. Ft.)
E
Also Needed: !/2"x 16!/2"- !/4"
plywood strip for part T
V
G
wood
in
wn)
1#/4" x 9!/4"- 60" Fir (7.7 Bd. Ft.)
1#/4" x 7!/4"- 60" Fir (6.1 Bd. Ft.)
F
W
K
R
U
L
S
U
Q
X
14
WoodsmithPlans.com
WS20028
Heirloom Project
workbench storage
Cabinet & Shelf
Get even more from your heirloom workbench by adding a cabinet that
features a bank of drawers topped with a large, open shelf.
{Drawer Cabinet. You can’t beat handy storage. This set
of drawers offers plenty of storage and versatility to keep
your tools where you need them, within easy reach.
15
WoodsmithPlans.com
WS20028
The Shaker-style workbench project will give you years
of great service in the shop. This simple cabinet and shelf
make the bench even more useful.
The cabinet features five drawers: a deep drawer in
the center flanked by a pair of shallow drawers on each
side. You’ll also note that the cabinet only fills a portion
of the opening beneath the bench and is topped by a
shelf. This makes it easy to keep tools, hardware, and
supplies close at hand when working at the bench —
without cluttering up the benchtop.
Just like the workbench, I built the cabinet with rocksolid joinery. The plywood case features tongue and
dado construction. And it’s tough to make a stronger
drawer joint than the locking rabbet.
The drawer fronts and face frame of the cabinet are
finished with an old-fashioned milk paint. This complements the heirloom quality of the workbench while
providing an interesting contrast to its oil finish. It all
comes together for a first-class shop fixture.
NOTE: Attach back
after drawers
are installed
A
CASE TOP
building the Case
Construction of the cabinet starts
with the plywood case. As you can
see at right, it’s fairly straightforward. The case consists of top, bottom, and end and divider panels.
A plywood back panel and edging
complete the case.
Top & Bottom. A good place to begin
is with the top and bottom. These
identical panels need a tongue
cut on each end to fit into dadoes
you’ll cut later in the end panels
(detail ‘b’). I formed the tongue
by cutting a rabbet on each end at
the table saw (left drawing below).
Then cut two dadoes to house the
divider panels, as shown in the
center drawing below.
End panels. Next up are the end
panels. Each panel has a dado cut
near the top and bottom edge to
hold tongues in the top and bottom, as you can see in the right
drawing below. The panels also
need a rabbet on the back edge to
hold the case back (detail ‘c’), so
you can cut these now, too.
Assembly. When the joinery is
complete, you can dry assemble
the parts and cut the two divider
panels and the back panel to size.
Then apply glue to all the joints
of the case, except those that hold
the back panel in place. It’s best to
53!/2
E
54
BACK
B
C
7
11!/4
6
11!/4
A
15!/4
D
EDGING
C
CASE
BOTTOM
11!/2
DIVIDER
7
5!/2
B
15!/4
END
PANEL
a.
NOTE: Case is made from
#/4" plywood. Case back
is !/4" plywood. Edging is
!/4"-thick Douglas fir
53
7
b.
FRONT VIEW
#/4" ply.
!/4
#/4
!/4
c.
A
!/4" ply.
#/8
FRONT VIEW
A
B
!/2
B
D
TOP VIEW
!/4
keep the back open for easy access
as you position and install the
drawer runners later.
With that in mind, you’re ready
to glue up the case. You can set the
back panel in place temporarily to
help square it up.
Edging. With the case assembled,
the edging that conceals its front
edges comes next. To make the
edging, plane a board to the same
thickness as the plywood case
components, and rip strips to
width on the table saw.
At this point, it’s just a simple
matter of adding the strips to the
front of the cabinet. Work your
away across the front of the cabinet,
cutting the length of each strip to
fit, and then gluing and clamping
each one in place. And then you can
move on to the drawers and shelf.
How-To: Simple Case Joinery
A
Aux. rip
fence
END
VIEW
a.
A
B
END
VIEW
a.
#/4"ply.
A
#/4
Cut the
first dado, then
rotate the
workpiece for the
second cut
#/8
Rabbet the Ends. With the dado blade
buried in an auxiliary rip fence, start by
cutting rabbets on the top and bottom.
16
END VIEW
#/4" ply.
!/4
Dado blade is
buried in aux.
fence
a.
Size width of dado
to fit tongue on
mating piece
!/4
Dadoes. Cut the dadoes after installing a
long auxiliary fence on the miter gauge to
keep the workpieces square.
WoodsmithPlans.com
WS20028
B
!/4
Dado the Ends. Now cut a pair of
dadoes in each of the end panels to fit
over the tongues in the top and bottom.
M
#8 x 1!/2" Fh
woodscrew
3
DRAWER
STOPS
SMALL DRAWER SIDE
F
2@!/32
5!/2
G
14#/8
F
I
L
LARGE
DRAWER BACK
DRAWER
RUNNER
11
#/4
11!/4
20&/8
SMALL DRAWER
BOTTOM
SMALL DRAWER FRONT
5#/8
a.
LARGE DRAWER
BOTTOM
5#/8
TOP VIEW
!/8
F
10#/4
b.
NOTE: Drawer fronts, backs, and sides
are made from !/2"-thick hardwood.
Drawer bottoms, stops, and runners
are made from !/4"plywood
14&/8
G
21#/8
K
I
H
LARGE
DRAWER
SIDE
J
#/4
H
G
!/4" ply.
J
LARGE
DRAWER
FRONT
!/2
SECTION VIEW
c.
!/4
SECTION VIEW
add the Drawers & Shelf #6 x #/4"
Fh woodscrew
!/16" shim
Add Runners. With
the drawer on shims,
slide the runner into
place and mark its
location. Then screw
it in place.
Now that the case is complete, the
drawers are the next order of business. Since the drawer fronts get
painted, I used poplar for the front,
back, and sides. The drawer bottom
is made of plywood.
BUILD THE DRAWERS. The drawers are
sized to create a 1⁄16" gap all around
when placed in the cabinet. They
are joined with locking rabbets,
and the bottom fits in a groove.
After cutting the parts to size, see
the How-To box below to make the
locking rabbet joints.
When the drawer joinery is
complete, cut the groove for the
bottom on the inside face of each
workpiece, as shown in detail
‘b.’ The drawer sides also need
!/4
a centered groove to fit over the
drawer runners. I cut this groove
before I assembled the drawer.
This way, the front of the drawer
remains intact. You can use a chisel
to complete the groove through
the drawer backs after assembly
(right drawing below).
Your final steps for the drawers
are to cut the bottom to size and
assemble the drawers.
Drawer runners. The drawers are
used to position the runners in the
case, as shown in detail ‘c.’ Start by
cutting the runners to size and drilling a countersunk hole near each
end. Check the fit of the runner in
a drawer groove, and sand for a
smooth, sliding fit.
J
#/4
#/4
!/16" shim
#/4
G
Use
shims
for
spacing
Next, insert the drawers in the
case. At the front and back, use
shims to establish a 1⁄16" gap all
around the drawers. Then insert
the runners from the back (margin
illustration at left). Measure and
mark the location of the runners,
and install them with screws.
Back & stops. With the runners in
place, you can now glue and clamp
the back to the case. The back
seals the contents of the cabinet and
holds the drawer stops.
How-To: Make Locking Rabbet Drawer Joinery
Take light,
paring cuts to
remove waste
J
Tall
aux.
fence
!/2
Aux. miter
gauge fence
G
!/4
!/4
!/4
J
Groove. Install a tall auxiliary
rip fence to cut a groove in each
end of drawer fronts and backs.
17
G
Tongue. Use the miter gauge
to cut the inside tongue to
length to fit into the side.
WoodsmithPlans.com
WS20028
DRAWER
BACK
Aux. miter
gauge fence
!/4
F
I
Dado. Now cut a kerf dado at
each end of the side pieces to
hold the tongues.
Side Groove. A chisel cuts a
clean notch to continue the side
groove through the back.
NOTE: Add cabinet and shelf
before installing benchtop
Speaking of the drawer stops,
there are four of them attached
to the inside of the back, one each
for the two sets of end drawers and
two for the center drawer.
The two stops on either end have
countersunk holes drilled before
they’re attached to the interior of
the case. These holes are for screws
used to attach the cabinet to the center stretcher on the workbench. Once
the holes are drilled, apply glue to
all the stops and hold them in place
on the inside case back for about a
minute until the glue sets up.
Finish up. The back and the interior
are now complete, so you can turn
your attention to finishing the exterior of the cabinet. You’ll add paint
and hardware in these final steps.
For a finish, I used milk paint on
the front of the drawers and cabinet.
Then I installed the drawer pulls.
Before installing the cabinet, you
need to add four shelf cleats to the
workbench to support the ends of
the shelf. As you can see in the illustration and detail ‘b’ at right, these
are just strips of wood that are cut to
size and screwed to the lower rails at
each end of the bench.
Then you can attach the cabinet
to the bench by driving screws
through the stops at the back of the
case to hold the cabinet to the center stretcher. Now slide the drawers
into the cabinet.
O
58#/4
SHELF
24!/8
54!/2
N
SHELF CLEAT
P
SHELF EDGING
#/4
NOTE: Cabinet removed
for clarity
1
10!/8
#/4
NOTE: Shelf is #/4" plywood. Cleats
are hardwood. Edging is Douglas fir
a.
b.
TOP VIEW
#8 x 1!/2"
Fh woodscrew
SECTION VIEW
O
O
2#/8
!/4
3#/8
N
Cleats align
with top of
center stretcher
&/8
P
Shelf. A shelf on top of the bank of
drawers makes a great place to keep
tools close at hand. You can cut the
shelf to size and then notch out the
front corners with a jig saw to fit
around the legs (detail ‘a’).
The shelf gets an edging strip
to conceal its front plywood edge.
Cut this strip to size and then glue
and clamp it in place.
Now lower the shelf in place
from above so that it rests on the
cleats. Secure the workbench top
(page 7) and the board jack (page
13) to complete your new, greatlooking workbench.
Materials, Supplies, & Cutting Diagram
3⁄
4
ply. - 111⁄4 x 531⁄2
3⁄ ply. - 111⁄ x 7
4
2
3⁄ ply. - 111⁄ x 6
4
4
1⁄ x 3⁄ - 140 rgh.
4
4
1⁄ ply. - 7 x 54
4
1⁄ x 221⁄ - 11
2
32
1⁄ x 221⁄ - 147⁄
2
32
8
1⁄ ply. - 103⁄ x 143 ⁄
4
4
8
1⁄ x 53 ⁄ - 11
2
8
1⁄ x 53 ⁄ - 213 ⁄
2
8
8
1⁄ ply. - 103⁄ x 207⁄
4
4
8
A Case Top/Bottom (2)
B End Panels (2)
C Divider Panels (2)
D Edging (1)
E Back (1)
F Small Drawer Sides (8)
G Small Drawer Fronts/Backs (8)
H Small Drawer Bottoms (4)
I Large Drawer Sides (2)
J Large Drawer Front/Back (2)
K Large Drawer Bottom (1)
!/2"x 5!/2"- 96" Poplar (3.7 Sq. Ft.)
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
!/2"x 5!/2"- 96" Poplar (3.7 Sq. Ft.)
G
I
I
G
18
L Drawer Runners (10)
MDrawer Stops (4)
N Shelf Cleats (4)
O Shelf (1)
P Shelf Edging (1)
1⁄ ply. - 3⁄ x 111⁄
4
4
4
1⁄ ply. - 3 x 51⁄
4
2
3⁄ x 1 - 101⁄
4
8
3⁄ ply. - 241⁄ x 583⁄
4
8
4
1⁄ x 3⁄ - 541⁄
4
4
2
•(20) #6 x 3⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
•(8) #8 x 11⁄2" Fh Woodscrews
•(5) Drawer Pulls w/Screws
#/4" x 3"- 72" Poplar (1.5 Bd. Ft.)
G
G
J
WoodsmithPlans.com
G
G
G
G
J
WS20028
N
D
ALSO NEEDED: One 48"x 96" Sheet of !/4" Birch Plywood,
One 48"x 96" Sheet of #/4" Birch Plywood
NOTE: Part P is cut from Douglas fir
Cutting Long Finger Joints
Cutting the finger joints in the
tail vise end block for the Shaker-style workbench is a simple
task with a dado blade installed
on the table saw.
But when it came to cutting
the finger joints in the mating
side block, I couldn’t use the
same technique. The finger joints
on the side block are 31⁄2" long
— too long to cut with an 8"-dia.
dado blade. So I had to come up
with another method.
I started by using the fingers
already cut on the end block to
1
lay out the notches on the
side block (Figure 1). Then,
in order to get a deeper cut,
I swapped out my dado
blade for a standard rip
blade and cut each notch by
making a series of passes, as
shown in Figure 2.
Even with a 10"-dia.
blade though, I couldn’t
cut the notches to their full
depth. So the remaining waste
needs to be removed by hand.
This is simply a matter of cutting along the sides of each notch
2
3
Take multiple
passes to remove
waste between
fingers
Tall aux.
fence
Pare away
remaining waste
with chisel
Rip
blade
Use fingers cut on
end block to lay out
fingers on side block
Making Draw Bolt Plates
1!/2
%/8
%/8"
rad.
5#/4
#/32"
chamfer
with a hand saw, as shown in the
photo above. (I used a Japanesestyle rip saw.) Then the remaining waste can be removed with
a chisel (Figure 3).
The end assemblies of the workbench base are tied together with
a stretcher. They’re connected
with carriage bolts and nuts. A
pair of shop-made plates are used
with the carriage bolts. These
serve two purposes — they add
a decorative element but also act
as washers for the bolts.
1
Hack
saw
4!/2
%/8
To make the plates, I started by
laying out the profile on a piece
of 1⁄8"-thick aluminum bar stock.
Using a hack saw to remove the
bulk of the waste, I roughed out
the rounded profile at each end.
Then you can use files to refine
the profile and create the chamfers on the edges, as in Figure 2.
2
File profile
edges smooth
To create the square holes for
the carriage bolts, start by drilling a 3⁄8"-dia. hole near each end
of the plate. Then with a small
triangular file, you can square
up the holes to hold the carriage
bolts (Figure 3). The last step is
to paint the plates and carriage
bolts using a black spray paint.
3
Square up
hole with file
#/8
#/8
!/8
&/16
NOTE: Enlarge
pattern 200%
19
WoodsmithPlans.com
WS20028
Making Round Tenons
To create the round tenon on the end of the
board jack peg for the Shaker-style workbench,
I used a clever router table technique.
SETUP. As you can see in the drawing at right,
the diameter of the tenon is determined by the
height of the router bit.
An auxiliary fence covers the opening in the
router table fence and acts as a stop to control
the length of the tenon. And a support block
clamped to the top of the router table helps to
control the workpiece.
To establish the shoulder of the tenon, hold
the dowel used for the peg against the support
block and slowly push it into the bit until the
end contacts the fence. Then rotate the dowel
clockwise to cut the shoulder of the tenon.
The rest of the waste can be nibbled away by
moving the workpiece back and forth over the
bit until the tenon is complete.
#8 x 1!/4" Fh
woodscrew holds
template secure
to dog rail
Aux.
fence
Dowel is rotated
over !/2" straight bit
to create rabbet
a.
Auxiliary fence
and backer board
are secured with
clamps
Cleats
!#/16
9!/2
Cleat
bottom
Dog rail
1!/16
Guide
2!/2
Cleat
bottom
9!/2
a.
Guide
NOTE: This is
Dog
rail edge
95°
Notched
Cleat
guide
!/4
END SECTION VIEW
Hold-down screw
Cleat
Cleat
TOP
VIEW
b.
Guide
1
END VIEW
Auxiliary
fence
#/4
#/16
NOTE: Template is made
from #/4" plywood.
Cleat bottoms are
Notched
!/4" hardboard
guide
2!/2
Backer board
keeps dowel
centered
over bit
Dog rail
Cleat
bottom
!/2" straight bit
Routing Dog Holes
Armed with a template, a mortising bit, and
a router, creating consistent dog holes for the
workbench is a snap. The template straddles
the workpiece and is held in place with a
screw. The bearing of the mortising bit rides
against an opening in the template to create a
perfectly shaped dog hole.
As you can see in the drawing at left, the template consists of two guides attached to a pair of
cleats at a 5° angle. One of the guides is notched
to create the recess for the head of the bench dog.
To use the template, simply position it on the
workpiece and secure it with a screw.
Note: The dog holes in the tail vise side block
face in the opposite direction of the dog holes in
the top of the bench. So to rout the tail vise dog
holes, you’ll have to remove the guides from
the cleats and flip them over. Then reposition
the cleats to straddle the wider side block.
17!/4
!/16
Typical Plywood
endgrain
(#/4" shown)
20
WoodsmithPlans.com
WS20028
MAIL
ORDER
SOURCES
Woodsmith Store
800-444-7527
Lee Valley
800-871-8158
leevalley.com
McMaster-Carr
630-600-3600
mcmaster.com
Rockler
800-279-4441
rockler.com
21
Project Sources
The Shaker-style workbench requires
some hardware, including tail vise
screws (70G01.52) and bench dogs
(05G02.01), both of which can be
found at Lee Valley.
You’ll also need a 3" knurled
knob (6121K132), a 3⁄4"-10 acorn nut
(91875A190), and 11⁄2" knurled knobs
(6121K25). All of these were purchased from McMaster-Carr.
The workbench was finished with
two coats of General Finishes SealA-Cell wiping varnish. Paste wax was
also applied to the benchtop.
For the storage cabinet in the workbench, you’ll need cast Victorian pulls
(02W26.32) from Lee Valley, and blue
milk paint (39130) which is available
at Rockler.
WoodsmithPlans.com
WS20028

shaker-style workbench

Transcription

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