Quilt to Give - Sewing With Nancy

Transcription

Quilt Binding - Steps for Success
“Party at the Fence Post”
Wall quilts. Full-sized quilts. Lap quilts. Place mats. A common denominator with almost all quilted pieces is the
finishing step—the binding. The process of mitering a corner involves a few steps. The mere mechanics of carrying
out the steps at four corners almost cements the technique in your mind!
I’d like to share with you my favorite binding technique. It’s in video form, developed to answer those many
questions that are posed by Quilt Expo contest entries on how to add a binding. The lesson begins with the
instructions to cut 2-1/2″ crosswise strips of fabric and ends with a neat and accurate finish to any quilted piece.
You can find binding techniques in Quilt with Confidence or simple watch below!
Enjoy!
http://youtu.be/nA3DbxeReV0
How many of you are planning on attending our 6th annual Quilt Expo, September 8–10? There’s still time to
register for lectures and sit & set classes.
Thanks for your response regarding your favorite designs from Mary Mulari’s Appliques for
Sweatshirts embroidery CD. The random winner of the CD is Susan. Her comment was: Oh, definitely the cat (I
love all things kitties). Wait, that dragonfly is lovely. Oh, but the ornament is so beautiful and perfect for getting a
head start on some Christmas presents. But the hand holding the flower is just so cute. It’s sensory overload!
Bye for now,
Content in this feed is copyrighted by Nancy Zieman and may not be republished without written permission.
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Top Creative Bag Ideas —It's What's Inside That Counts
Florida Tote made from the “Trace ‘n Create Bag Template”
Can interfacing and foundation fabric be considered as part of the creative process? That was the question that I
posed to myself before deciding to write this blog.The answer to my own question—unfortunately I do talk to
myself—was a definite yes. My rationale was that if a handbag (or any other project for that matter) doesn’t have
the needed interfacing and/or stabilizers, creative efforts are wasted.
In my initial days of creating handbags, I only added fusible interfacing to the back of the fabric. The result—a lackluster bag. My new mantra is “more is better” when it comes to what’s inside the bag.
Cotton fabrics are the most common fabrics available for bag making. The selection is almost endless, yet the
weight of the fabric—lightweight—is a drawback for bags if not properly stabilized. I take a 3-step process to
shaping a handbag or tote. Here are my recommendations for giving handbag fabric support and stability, which
will enhance the creative process.
Step One:
Fuse an interfacing such as Sof-Shape® from Pellon to the wrong side of all cotton fabrics. Cut interfacing the
same size as the bag pieces and fuse to wrong sides. I generally fuse a large section of fabric, then cut out the
fabric. Here I’m using the Trace ‘n Create Bag Templates—The Florida Tote Collection to trace the shape on
the wrong side and then cut out the bag shape.
Step Two:
Plus, back the main pieces of the bag with a firm foundation fabric. Cut foundation fabric the same size as the main
bag pieces—the front and the back. Choose one of three options:
•
Cotton Canvas/Polyester Fleece combo: Both fabrics are easy to find. Used together, the duo provides
stability and enhances the shaping of the bag.
•
Headliner Fabric: Available in the upholstery section of many chain stores, this foam-type fabric generally
lines the inside of your car! Use as a foundation for a Designer Bag; it’s easy-to-sew.
•
Peltex Ultra Firm—Sew In: Recommended as a heavyweight stabilizer for accessories and crafts, it’s one
of my favorite bag foundation fabrics. Available in white or black, it’s an ideal choice to give your bag support.
Step Three:
I recommend sewing a bag from the bottom up, first stitching the lower seam so that the bag pieces lies flat. Then,
the inner toning or shaping can easily be added. Here’s how:
•
Stitch lower seam; press seam open.
•
Zigzag over seam allowances, using widest zigzag stitch on your machine. This stitching will keep seam
allowances perfectly flat.
•
Cut a plastic stabilizer, such as Shape ‘n Create the width X the finished length of the bag bottom, minus
seam allowances.
•
Position Shape ‘n Create to wrong side of bag with double-sided basting tape. It’s easy to stitch through the
plastic, but difficult to pin without bending pins.
•
Edgestitch the Shape ‘n Create along all sides. If it is difficult to sew through all layers, use a larger sized
needle, 90 or 100 and lengthen the stitches.
Theses three shaping details will be neatly tucked inside your bag or tote, giving you shape and detail. It’s what’s
inside that counts!
An InLinkz Link-up
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Bye for now,
Sewing Tips from Nancy Zieman and Friends!
Last week I posted 50 of my favorite sewing and quilting tips, plus asked you to add your ideas to Sew Smart &
Sew Kind. My hope was to receive 50 additional ideas. As you can tell from the heading, I received more than
requested–in just four days. My tips are listed first, then the new ideas are listing from #51 through #109.
Thank you to all of you when added a tips! What a fun project!
#1
When you receive a compliment on something you’ve sewn, quilted, or embroidered, graciously say,
“Thank you.” Please don’t point out the flaw that only you can find.
#2
Support your local sewing and quilting stores.
#3
Teach your kids or grandkids to sew on a button and fix a hem. Give them a small sewing kit when they
leave for college. (If they can master texting, they can certainly sew on a button.)
#4
Tie a tag on your best sewing scissors that’s labeled “For fabric cutting only.” Or, keep it in a box in the
freezer with the label, “Chicken Livers.” (This hint is attributed to Nancy Harp, Aurora, MN.)
#5
Store unfinished projects in clear, plastic bins that have snap-on covers. All pieces will stay together and
you’ll not loose sight what’s inside.
#6
Give a small sewing kit to a member of a bridal party: thread (white, black, and the color of the
attendant’s dresses), needles, and scissor (or nail clippers to cut threads).
#7
Keep a small sewing repair kit in the glove box of your car.
#8
Join a guild or sewing group. You’ll find inspiration and friendship.
#9
Make and give away something every year to someone you’ll never meet. The gift is in the giving. Use
the best fabric that your budget affords. The project that you made may be the only made-with-love gift that
person receives in his/her life. See www.creativekindness.com for a listing of volunteer projects and/or
organizations.
#10
Use a calendar to quickly keep track of what you’ve sewn or quilted in a year. Pin a swatch of fabric at the
date completed along with a few notes. You might amaze yourself with what you accomplished in a year.
#11
Start a new sewing or quilting project by cleaning/oiling your machine and changing the needle. An ounce
of prevention . . .
#12
Donate aged fabric to a charitable sewing group. If you haven’t used it in five or more years, it’s likely
you never will. You’ll feel good about cleaning out your fabric stash and the recipients will appreciate the donation.
#13
Listen to books on tape (or CD) while sewing or quilting.
#14
Keep water-soluble stabilizer in a zip-lock plastic bag to prevent it from drying out.
#15
Plug your sewing machine(s), iron and light into an electrical strip. When leaving your sewing area, you’ll
just have one switch to turn off and you’ll never wonder if you left the iron turned on!
#16
A seam sealant like Fray Block or Fray Check is a must to seal all serger thread tails or edges. If squeezed
directly to the fabric, you may get more than you bargained for. Apply the sealant to a Q-tip and then drab your
fabric for greater control.
#17
To save time later, wind several bobbins of thread before starting a project.
#18
Don’t waste your money on buying cheap thread–you get what you pay for.
#19
Make it a habit to clip the corner of fabric that you’ve pre-washed. This little demarcation will save you
time and your sanity.
#20
Schedule a sewing escape each year, such as an evening class, a 3-day event, or a quilt show. It will get
your creative juices flowing!
#21
Thank the person who taught you to sew or quilt.
#22
Cut elastic to the needed length after inserting it into a casing. It will be easier to handle and less elusive!
#23
#24
Every time you sew or quilt look for some small way to improve the process.
Write the pattern number or book reference of your project inside the hem or another inconspicuous area,
using a permanent fabric-marking pen such as Pigma Pen. That reference might come in handy some day!
#25
Add a label to every sewn-with-love project given away. Besides writing or stitching your name, add the
date and occasion.
#26
If you’re not going to use your fabric purchase right away, write the yardage on an Avery label (or another
type of sticker) and apply to the fabric. It will save time when you’re mulling through your fabric stash, determining
if you have enough yardage for your next project.
#27
Keep several tubes of paper glue stick at hand. The glue works as a basting or tacking aid when positioning
trim or “pinning” hems. Not to worry, the glue dries clear and will not gum-up your machine.
#28
Use tiny clothespins or paper clips as pin alternatives when working with thick fabrics or multi-layers of
fabric.
#29
Cans of tuna or caviar are excellent pattern weights.
#30
Start sewing for the holidays in September. Some recommend July, I just can’t get interested in Christmas
gifts when it’s more enjoyable to be out of doors. Besides, we already missed that date! September works for me.
#31
If you garden as well as sew or quilt, use leftover crosswise quilt strips to tie tomato vines to a supportive
post. The soft fabric doesn’t damage the vine.
#32
Enjoy the sewing process. It’s therapeutic!
#33
Keep a small empty container that once housed, for example, vitamins in your sewing area. Use it to
dispose of worn-out needles. Your garbage collector will thank you.
#34
Position your ironing board away from the sewing machine. Getting up, walking, and stretching will keep
your back happy.
#35
Don’t hide your sewing machine in a closet. Assign a corner of a bedroom, great room, or office as your
space. After all, we keep our computers at easy access!
#36
For an almost instant raised cutting table, cut (or have someone help you cut) four, 6-8” lengths of PVC
pipe. Slide the pipes over the legs of a heavy-duty folding table. Presto!
#37
Read the pattern or project instructions, start to finish, before beginning a project. (Sometime I just “read”
the illustrations and then read the instructions if the step looked confusing.) You’ll be able to head-off confusion if
you have an idea of the entire process before you begin.
#38
To mark a point where you need to stop stitching, insert two pins close together. It works for me just like
a stop sign.
#39
A bar of soap with the paper covering intact is a pleasant-smelling pincushion substitute.
#40
If the thread in your sewing machine breaks, here are two tips that solve the problem 90% of the time: 1)
Totally rethread the machine. 2) If #1 doesn’t work, change to a larger size needle.
#41
Attention Embroiderers: Use strips of Blue Painter Tape to position a project to the hooped stabilizer.
#42
When combining fabrics, the inclination is to choose all medium shades. Combining light, medium, and
dark fabrics will give your project more eye-appeal.
#43
Use Sticky Notes to mark frequently used cutting lines on your quilting rulers. These visual markings will
improve your accuracy.
#44
Use a flannel-backed vinyl tablecloth as a temporary design wall. Pin under a casing at one end of the
tablecloth, thread a curtain rod through the casing, and hang the design wall with two small nails at each end of
the rod.
#45
If you don’t have a lot of cupboard or drawer space, use a cutlery carrier to store frequently used sewing
notions.
#46
For knot-free hand sewing, run a threaded needle through a dryer sheet a few times. The anti-cling
solution will give you smooth hand sewing.
#47
Cut drinking straws in half and place over the spool pins of your thread rack to increase the capacity.
#48
Give a start-to-sew kit to a friend. Include scissors, tape measure, pins, pincushion, seam ripper, and a
coupon for a personalized sewing lesson with you!
#49#
Keep a roll of paper toweling near the ironing board. When fusing web or interfacing, place sheets of the
toweling on the ironing board. If the fusible sticks to the paper towels, simply toss!
#50
Count your blessings. Be thankful for the gift of creating with your hands.
New Tips from my Blog Friends
#51 from Gloria Wright. Be sure to watch Sewing With Nancy for some great instruction and wonderful shortcuts
and ideas!
#52 from Jennifer Carson. Try something new! If you’ve never sewn a doll or stuffed animal give it a try! How
about a shirt or a spiffy Halloween costume? When you give a new type of project a try, you learn techniques that
are helpful for all kinds of projects!
#53 from Michele Ricci. When preparing a sewing project with many pieces and steps, label the pre-cut pieces with
notes ahead of time in the order that you will be using them. Include the step numbers of the project. If you pin the
notes with similar pieces stacked together, they will be easier to organize if you have to stop the project for some
reason and start again.
#54 from boning. Don’t sew when you are tired. Things go wrong and you’re not on top of your game. Ask me how
I know; the seam ripper is your best friend when you are tired.
#55 from Stephanie. An SOS pad tightly tied inside an old sock will help keep your needles and pins clean & sharp.
#56 from Linda. ALWAYS make a sample quilt square before cutting all the pieces out. Make sure all cut pieces
are the correct size and you understand how to assemble the block. I learned this tip the hard way. I cut one small
block piece the wrong size and didn’t catch it till it was too late. See tip #54.
#57 from Marsha. Recycle and repurpose. Fabric is fabric. If the fabric is great, but the style is wrong or there is a
stain, consider using it for another purpose. For example: I made my new favorite summer blouse out of a cotton
shower curtain. I also repurposed an outdated silk dress into luxurious eye pillows.
#58 from Karrie Pennington. I just finished binding my first quilt. I broke 4 needles in the process. Someone on a
craft show mentioned that you should check and tighten your needle often when using special sewing feet (She
was using a ruffler). I tried this with my even feed foot and did not break another needle. I am passing this advice
to my mom whose complex embroideries often result in broken needles. I wish I could remember whose tip this is,
but I want to share it anyway. Being kind to your machine is being kind to yourself.
#59 from Kathy. Use an extra-large gift bag as a trash can in your sewing area. The bag holds up well for the
lightweight fabric scraps and sewing bits and pieces. It looks pretty as well.
#60 from Patti. I was just going to write this and I see that Jennifer, above, beat me to it. Sew a doll, a doll dress, a
teddy bear, or a cloth book. Give it to your child, grandchild, niece or nephew. If you don’t have someone to give it
to, save it for the next time a friend or acquaintance has a baby. Sewing toys is a great break from sewing more
time consuming items, and they bring a smile to your face when they are finished!
#61 from Caro. Never decide that a project is awful until it’s finished – I have nearly thrown out a blouse, because
without its sleeves, it looked like it would never fit. But it finished as one of my favorites.
#62 from Mary Mulari. My bobbin-filling tip goes along with #17: With a bobbin-filling machine such as the Side
Winder, you can easily fill bobbins while watching television. I also like to fill many bobbins with neutral
colors–several shades of gray and tan–which often blend well with top thread colors when it’s not important that
the bobbin thread match the fabric exactly.
#63 from Ellen. In addition to your #15 tip, Use a strip of light fabric tied to each cord, labeled with fabric marker
to identify which equipment the cord is for.
#64 from Ellen. Save empty thread spools to wind your quilt binding. Secure to spool with blue masking tape.
When ready to bind, insert the spool on spool holder, No more twisted, tangled, and stretched binding to deal with.
#66 Nancy Owens. Best tip I got just today, I was complaining to my Chiropractor that I could only sew for 2 hours
a day (my 60+ body wants to sew like my 20 year old body!) His suggestion was to break it up into smaller
chunks, and I would probably be able to do more. That reminded me of Nancy’s book, “10, 20, 30 Minutes to
Sew”. So that is my goal. I still wish I could sew for 8 to 10 hours at a time like I used to……………Oh well, onward
and upward!
#67 from Marilyn McCurdy. Always press a seam after sewing it. Pressing before going to the next step will insure
your project will go together much easier and in the end will look great too.
#68 from Marie. Sometimes during “mid-night sewing” I come up with some great sewing solutions. Need a quick
temporary stabilizer? Reach for the recycle bin and stabilize with some paper or envelopes.
#69 from Marty Smith. When you have just a little left on those pre-wound bobbins. I use them to baste
embroidery in the hoop.
#70 from Laura Jean. Keep your sense of humor! Yes, sometimes things don’t go exactly as planned, and I wind up
ripping more than I sew. (So for me I find a good seam ripper, pair of tweezers, and magnifying glass are absolutely
essential.) Then I picture how goofy the dress would look with backward sleeves or the skirt with an inside out
panel or a quilt column with the flannel on the outside. It really does help if you can keep your “funny side” up!
#71 from Nancy Axmacher. Keep a lint roller at your cutting table! It cleans all the little scraps and threads off the
cutting mat. You can also use it to pick up all the little threads on a project after you’ve “unsewn” a seam! (Hint:
Roll it across the finished block, all those pesky threadlets are pulled away)!
#72 from Jen in Oz. If you’re as obsessive as me, keep a list or spreadsheet (on your phone?) of all the sewing
patterns in your stash (and/or all your fabric stash too). You could also keep scans of the pattern fronts and backs
and images of the fabric, so that a) you don’t duplicate when you’re at the sewing store and b) you can match a
fabric you want to a pattern you already have or vice versa.
#73 from June B. Never quit learning, use the internet, books, and friends to ever increase your knowledge of this
wonderful craft. I have been sewing for over 40 years and still learn something every day and love life!
#74 from Brenda Kish. Before changing a machine needle, place a scrap of fabric or paper over the feed dogs. If
you drop the needle it won’t end up in the bobbin case.
#75 from Dorene. When cleaning the bobbin area of my machine and under it, I use pipe cleaners. They pull out all
the lint that gets stuck underneath. Here’s another bobbin tip I learned in a class. When filling a bobbin, insert the
thread end into the little hole. Then pull the thread and insert it through the big hole leaving a tail. When finished
filling, just clip at the little hole and there is a smooth thread cut. Not necessary to stop the machine before filling
is complete.
#76 from Elizabeth Romano. When working with sewing patterns…. keep a gallon size zipper lock bag
handy. When you are done sewing for the session, store the pattern, notions, threads etc. in the bag. They will all
be together in one place for the next day or session. Also this tip works great when quilting with charm square. It
keeps those charms, or 1/2 square triangles or honey buns in order.
#77 from Vicki. Keep sewing thread reel and bobbin with matching thread together when you store them away, I
use bobbin mates (Mum used to put reel on bobbin on the same nail). Next time you need to sew with that color no
need to search through a separate bobbin container. Especially important for those special threads when you
machine sew with silk, 100% cotton etc instead of poly cotton.
#78 from Cindy. If your dress form bust cup size is not large enough, put one of your bras on her and stuff it. I used
old shoulder pads. Cover with snug fitting T-shirt. Now you have a dress form that works for no additional cost!
#79 from Robbin. Photo albums, “brag books” with plastic pockets that only cost a dollar or two are
great organizing tools. You can carry one in your purse to hold small fabric/thread/yarn swatches, coupons from
your favorite fabric stores, shopping lists and notes, etc. I also keep index cards in mine with measurements for
people I’ve done sewing/alterations for.
#80 from Sheryl. Purchase those long, plastic, foam-like “noodles” (used for swimming pool floating devices) and
cut in lengths to roll up your in-process appliqué projects. Also can be used for rolling wall hangings or small quilts
for transporting instead of folding them. Not sure about long-term storage possibilities for use with textiles, but
they are lightweight, inexpensive and convenient for short-term usage.
#80 ½ from Patricia Hersl. If you change your throat plates, use a small sticky note to remind you “No Zig-Zag”
when you’ve installed the single needle plate. Always take that first stitch slowly, just in case.
#81 from Cathy. Keep a can of Compressed Gasduster at your sewing machine. When I’m done for the day and
ready to clean up, I remove the bobbin and spray out the fabric particles. This works really well on my Serger, then
I wipe everything down and vacuum.
#82 from JoAn Godrey. For a quick gift keep the parts of a table runner or similar item cut and ready to sew in a
bin with your stash. Then you just have to sew instead of pick a pattern, cut, then sew. I have a favorite table
runner pattern that goes together easily. I keep several “kits” in holiday and everyday fabrics ready to go. Makes it
even easier to give a special thank-you to someone.
#83 from Bonne Swett. Sew with a friend. Whether fabric shopping, attending classes or events, or actually sewing
together…you’ll have double the fun!
#84 from Karen Prince. Cardboard manila file folders can be made into templates for marking hems. Cut both
square edges and rounded edges (for straight garments or those with some flair at the hemline). Then measure up
1/2″, 1″, 1-1/4, 1-1/2″ etc and permanently mark lines on the template to indicate the hem depth. Place the
cardboard template at the hemline (wrong side) and turn up the hem to the desired measurement; then press into
place around the hemline. The template stabilizes the hem as you press. Saves fingers from being burned, and
makes for an easy consistent hem depth.
#85 from Sharon Mathewson. When buying a new ironing board cover, choose one with straight stripes or
plaids. Use these straight lines when pinning, placement, and other tasks that require a straight line. It saves a lot
if time. Most plaids are 1 inch, but check yours to be sure. When cutting lengths of cord, fabric, binding, ribbon, or
any thing, you can easily guestimate length by using the pattern on the cover.
#86 from Sue S. Keep your supplies organized and try to put things away promptly! If you keep things together,
either in project specific bags or in bins, you’ll be able to find things when you need them. I keep things like zippers
and bias tape in clear plastic containers so when I need one I know where to look. No more running to the store to
buy a black zipper because I can’t find the bag I brought home last week!
#87 from Lynn Butler. I use the small slivers of soap for marking. The edges are usually fairly sharp and the marks
brush away.
#88 from Bridgit Montgomery. I used my phone to keep a database of the patterns I have at home and I check it
before buying patterns at my local fabric store. Before I started doing this, I would buy the same pattern 2 or 3
times because it was one I really wanted to make or I would go home without it because I was sure I already had it
in my stash. I even have a folder of “patterns I think I might like to make” for future purchases.
#89 from Sue Johnson. Cut out many projects at one time and keep in plastic boxes or bags and when you are
ready to sew you can take your pick of project. Also when giving a quilt as a gift make a matching pillowcase to
wrap it in.
#90 from JoAn Godrey. A simple tip. When you finish with a hand-sewing needle, leave it threaded and tie a knot
with both ends of the thread. If the needle gets pushed all the way into your pincushion (or the arm of your favorite
chair or couch…lol) the knot will stay outside and give you a “handle” to work the needle back out.
#91 Lois Dorrell. When removing tear-away stabilizer from the back of a machine-embroidered design, I use a
double-eyed needle to get into the tight places. Works great to just slide it under the stabilizer and lift it up slightly
to tear it away.
#92 from Lita Marishak. For heavier fabrics, instead of sewing two lines of gathering stitches, zigzag over strands
of heavy upholstery thread or even fishing line in two lines. The thread will not break when you are pulling up the
gathers.
#93 from Lita Marishak. For each new fabric, use a swatch to test the thread, needle size, stitch type, stitch length
(and width), tension, and foot pressure. This will allow you to determine the optimum combination necessary to
sew properly without ruining the actual project. You might be surprised at how many fabrics these days show large
needle holes or other abnormalities when using standard needles and settings.
#94 from Lita Marishak. For joining elastic ends together, use a three-step zigzag stitch in several directions. The
elastic will never come apart, no matter how much tension is applied.
#95 from Jay Mulder. A great gift to yourself is an annual cleaning/tune-up on your machine. Getting it back
running smoothly and all tuned up gives you that feeling of having a new machine all over again.
#96 from Jeri Lynn Downs. When I find something cute and fun to make, that is equally usable, I make up extras.
I’ve made in-the-hoop project bags, and key fobs and given them to friends. It’s more fun to share and it’s a great
way to use up that extra little bit of fabric. I also like to make freestanding-lace crosses and bookmarks. I give
them to the ladies at church who aren’t sewing any longer. It brings a smile to their faces and warms my heart.
#97 from Patti. If I am making a garment that requires gathering or basting threads, I set up both of my sewing
machines, the second with a contrasting color to what I am sewing the garment with. I sew the basting or
gathering thread on the other machine. When it comes time to take out the basting thread, it is so much easier to
take it out a bright thread of a different color. Of course you can keep switching threads on one machine too, but
this is a good tip for those who have two machines.
#98 from Pam Ziny. Mine goes along with #72, I print up one sheet for each pattern. Then after I have sewn that
pattern, I attach a fabric sample to the page along with notes about the pattern. I also take a photo of the finished
project and attach it to the sheet. All this is kept in a notebook (or 2) for easy reference.
#99 from Britt-Inger Bjørsvik. When the weather allows, bring your sewing machine and the things you need for
your project outdoor. There are several advantages with sewing outdoor: you see everything much better in the
daylight; you get fresh air, and the dust, thread ends and small fabric scraps stay outside when you’re finished.
#100 from Carol Capps. Use a stand-alone paper towel holder as a quilt binding holder. Save the cardboard tube
from the paper towels and wind your quilt binding around it. Then sit the paper towel holder on the floor or on your
sewing table. The binding dispenses easily and without tangles.
#101 from Sheriann D. I use a single ‘Post It Note’ to cover my throat plate when I am changing needles on my
sewing machines. I never have to worry about the needle falling down into the machine.
#102 from Becky Locke. Pass your love of sewing to the younger generation. This fall I am planning to teach a
friend of mine’s daughter to sew. She is so eager to begin. I learned to sew from my Mom and have cherished the
experience.
#103 from Barbara McKenzie. If you need to steam press a very small item (hem, bias binding, etc.) avoid burned
fingers by turning off the steam, positioning the fabric and iron, moving your “holding” hand, and hitting the burst
of steam. It has saved my fingers many times!
#104 from Paula Knight. I like to keep one of those micro cloths in my ironing supplies. When I take out a seam
with my seam ripper, it helps to pick up the threads on the garment, kind of like a magnet. It also picks up threads
that are laying on the carpet and my ironing board. Also I use a daisy razor to “shave” my embroidery on the
backside. It helps to release threads if I make a mistake and have to take the embroidery out. I’m a beginner
embroider and do a lot of practice runs.
#105 from Denise. This kind of takes #61 a bit further. If after I finish a project, it just doesn’t look right. All the
little things seem to be glaring at me. I set it aside for the next day. Project looks so much better the next day.
Saves me a lot of ripping out that really wasn’t necessary.
#106 from Jordan Nuques. Next time you eat Chinese food, save those chopsticks. They make great point turners
for crisp corners!
#107 from Jessie. I took a 12″ length of 5/8″ garden hose and cut a slit all the way down the side. The hose spreads
apart to accept bobbins, which snap easily in and out. It holds about 40 bobbins, and since the sides are showing,
you always know what color they are! I have a separate holder for specialty thread bobbins.
#108 from Karen Downs. My hint is for hand appliqué. Lay a pillow on your lap as you appliqué. The project
fabric lies nicely on the pillow, and appliquéing is easier to see and makes it easier to appliqué.
#109 from Pat West. If you trace a lot of patterns, use wedding runner that’s available in 50 to 100 foot rolls. There
are plain and white-on-white print varieties and both are sheer enough to see through but strong enough to endure
many fittings and pinnings.
What is your favorite tip from the listing?
Just a note below in the comment section, letting me know which tip is your favorite!
Thank you to all of you who posted a tip! As promised, a random tip was chosen and the winner will receive a
package of my notecard collection. The winner is—JoAn Godrey, tip #90. Congrats!
Bye for now,
Behind the Scenes of "Sewing With Nancy"
Thursdays are often recording days for Sewing With Nancy. So when I was pondering a topic for today’s blog, I
decided to snap shots of a what happens during a recording day. Yesterday we videotaped two shows, part of the
3-part series, Serger Workshop. This series will first be made available on Public TV and online November 13, 2011.
Pam Mahshie, Baby Lock Educational Ambassador, is my guest for this series.
Pre-Planning
The topic was chosen approximately nine months ago after hearing many “serger confessions” where people
sheepishly told me that they only use their serger to clean-finish raveling edges. The solution—learn the basics
with serger master, Pam.
Planning meetings, phone conferences, sewing samples, and a pre-taping day meeting are all part of every miniseries of the show. The next day, Donna, Pat and I pack up my van and leave Beaver Dam at 7:00 a.m. and
venture to the studios of Wisconsin Public TV in Madison WI—a one-hour drive. Donna is my right hand person in
preparing and producing the show; Pat is the editor of all the books.
Phase One: Pack, Unpack, and Organize
Producing a TV show may sound glamourous, but like most jobs, it’s work! We unload the machines, samples, and
products into carts in the unloading dock.
Donna and Pat set up the sewing machines and/or sergers. All of the samples are placed on tables in the sequence
of my scripts. I often wonder just how many step-by-step samples we’ve generated since 1982?
Make-up Anyone?
While Pat and Donna organize the samples, I head to the green room for a spin in the make-up chair. Vicki Fischer
has been my make-up artist for almost 20 years. I think she has more make-up than I have fabric!
The Studio
The Sewing With Nancy set has four areas: the round table for openings/closings; the sewing machine/cabinet
area, the demo table, and Nancy’s Corner—the interview area.
The three dressforms in the background are commonly referred to as the “back up singers.”
Some of the walls, really aren’t walls. And not to mention my “sewing room” doesn’t have a real ceiling.
Ready on the set
We begin the day with the recording of the opening of the first show. It’s the only part of the show that I fully script
with the copy appearing on the telepromptor. Truthfully, getting that first segment recorded is usually the most
trying part of the day.
Trivia: for my 25th anniversary show, I ordered a small bouquet of flowers for the table. It was such a treat to have
fresh flowers, that I made it my goal to either buy or pick a few sprigs from my garden to brighten up the set. I
picked these flowers at 6:00 in the morning. You’ll generally be able to tell what time of year we’re recording the
show by the type of flowers on the table.
Most of yesterday was spent at the sewing area; Pam and I had dueling sergers.
Luckily at home I don’t have to deal with power and mic cords underfoot.
There are three camera operators and a floor director that join me in the studio.
In the control room, my director, Laurie Gorman, calls the shots with support staff, including lighting and audio
engineers.
Pat one of my co-workers, mans the telepromptor and makes sure that I follow the script. I’ve been know to
deviate from my outline now and then, hmm.
Dual purpose table
My demonstrations table wasn’t part of the script yesterday since all segments were featured at the serger—it was
an atypical day. Generally I stand behind the slanted board table to demonstrate several steps. The slanted board
has a higher option. We elevated it when close-up shots are needed. Called cutaways, samples or finished projects
are placed in front of the board on a neutral fabric and a tight camera-shot is captured.
The demo table also serves as a hiding place for lots of notions and amendities including tissues, almonds and
cough drops.
After seven or eight hours, two shows have been recorded and we head back to Beaver Dam. Whew, another set of
shows in the proverbial can.
You’ve seen a small view of what the Sewing With Nancy “classroom” is really like. Unlike a typical classroom
where there’s one person in control, my studio classroom is taught by a team. I may be the Betty Crocker of the
team, yet the group makes it all happen.
Was it what you thought it would be like?
Thanks for joining me, bye for now,
Content in this feed is © copyright 2011 by Nancy Zieman and may not be republished without written permission.
Who Taught You to Sew?
Whether you consider yourself a sewist, quilter, or embroidery enthusiast, in my mind you sew. After all, you use a
sewing machine! So when I ask, “Who taught you to sew?” the field of creativity is broad.
My story is common among young girls growing up in rural mid-America during the 50’s and 60’s. The 4-H club was
my introduction to the art of sewing, actual the 4-H project was called clothing, not sewing. The first year the
projects were, hmm, a gathered skirt and a fringed scarf. Never mind that I never used the scarf and only wore the
skirt to the 4-H style show, the important part was that I got bit by the sewing bug.
You might wonder if I remember the name of my 4-H leader. It would be impossible to forget, it was my mom.
Starting at the age of 10, ending at age 18, mom taught 6-8 eager kids to sew. Starting in the spring, we chose our
project or projects to be completed in late August in time for the county fair.
In the early years we all made the same outfit. Year two, reversible, yes reversible jumpers were the suggested
project. Mom was never one to set the bar too low.
Sewing gave me confidence. Confidence that was sorely needed by a young girl with a facial paralysis and unruly
blonde curls—mom also believed in Home Hair Perms at least twice a year. Even though back then I wanted to
blend into the background (notice where I’m standing in the photo), these learned sewing skills were a springboard
to a creative outlet and eventual career. What a great gift my mom gave me!
V
a
l
e
ri
e
,
V
ic
k
i,
P
eggy, Beth, and Nancy—all wearing reversible
jumpers.
Who taught you to sew? Please share your story. We’ll choose a random posting, sending you a trio of Sewing With
Nancy videos: Sew with Confidence, Quilt with Confidence, and Machine Embroidery with Confidence.
Why those videos? The answer: so you can teach someone else to sew!
Bye for now,
Top Creative Designer Bag Sewing Tips: Design —Sensational Pockets
Looking for a quick, yet creative sewing project for this summer? Why not use a super-sized tote pattern, changing
the pockets from simple to sensational!
The directions given fit the pocket dimensions of McCall’s#6296, yet you could easily adapt this technique to fit
any other tote pattern. Since the technique is so adaptable, I’ve included it in my Creative Designer Bag Sewing
series.
Here’re the steps:
•
Cut the pocket pattern pieces from a lightweight cotton fabric. It will be the foundation of the
patchwork—you’ll never see it when the tote is complete. So use a remnant!
•
Each patchwork section is created from seven strips. Cut crosswise strips from leftover fabric: 2″ and 1″
crosswise strips.
•
Arrange in a pleasing order, alternating 2″ and 1″ strips.
•
Cut two strips for each row.
Row 1: Cut two 2″ crosswise strips
The layout of the patchwork design is a personal choice. Take a little time to play with the order to make certain it
is to your liking!
•
Cut 18; 3-1/2″ squares for the prairie points. Fold in half, wrong sides together. Fold outside corners to
center; press. Either side of the prairie point may be used as the right side.
•
Mark the center of each pocket section on right side with chalk or a washable marking pen. Pin strip from
Row 7, wrong side of strip to right side of pocket along lower edge of pocket. Pin one prairie point along the top
edge of fabric strip and at center.
•
Pin a strip from Row 6 along top of Row 7, right sides together. Stitch a 1/4″ seam.
•
Fold up strip. Press. Trim off excess fabric along sides.
•
Align strip from Row 5 along top of Row 6, right sides together. Stitch 1/4″ seam. Fold up strip. Press. Trim
off excess fabric along sides.
•
Pin three prairie points along top edge of Row 5 as illustrated.
•
•
•
Pin five prairie points along edge of Row 3 as illustrated.
•
Add rows 2 and 1 following the same process.
•
Repeat strip piecing technique on each side pocket. Adding prairie points is optional. Create pockets for
each side of the tote.
Now, just finish the tote using the instructions. Ta-da! A sensational pocket!
This super-sized tote is ideal for portable sewing, knitting, or craft projects. The pattern includes a removable
organizer! Fun to make, practical to use. Hmm, detailing the organizer might be another blog post. What do you
think?
An InLinkz Link-up
To watch Sewing With Nancy on your iPad, iPod Touch, or iPhone, download the app.
Bye for now,
Content in this feed is copyrighted by Nancy Zieman and may not be republished without written permission. You’re welcome to forward the email to a
friend or colleague but it’s not okay to add the RSS feed automatically as content on a blog or other website.
Quilt to Give: Step Ten—Binding and Labeling
This is it, the final step of creating the Quilt to Give. Bind your creation and add a label, then you’ll be ready to
give it away.
Now for the final step: Bind and Label Your Quilt
Note: Samples for the binding steps were made from contrasting fabrics. The photos are not from a completed
quilt.
1. Prepare binding strips.
Twin:
Cut eight 2-1/2″ crosswise strips. (5/8 yd.)
Double:
Cut nine 2-1/2″ crosswise strips. (3/4 yd.)
Queen:
Cut ten 2-1/2″ crosswise strips. (3/4 yd.)
King:
Cut ten 2-1/2″ crosswise strips. (3/4 yd.)
•
Stitch short ends of the binding strips, right sides together. Press seams open.
•
Cut one end of the binding at a 45° angle. Fold in 1/4″ at trimmed end.
•
Press a 1/4″ strip of paper-backed fusible web to the folded-under edge of the binding. Leave paper backing
attached.
•
Fold binding in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press.
2. Attach binding to the quilt.
•
Meet the binding to the right side of the quilt, starting with the angle-cut end in the center of one side. Stitch
binding to quilt with a 1/4″ seam, beginning 4″ from the end of the binding.
•
Prior to reaching the corner, fold the binding at a right angle. Press mark the fold.
•
Continue stitching, stopping at the press mark. Lock the stitch, raise the presser foot, and clip the threads.
•
Refold the binding at the 45° angle, aligning cut edge of binding with cut edge of the quilt.
•
Fold the binding down, meeting binding fold to top edge of quilt and binding cut edge to side edges. Stitch a
1/4″ seam, starting at the folded edge.
•
Repeat the process at the remaining corners.
3. Join binding ends.
•
Remove the paper backing from the folded-under edge of the binding.
•
Insert free end of binding inside beginning of binding so binding is
smooth. Unfold binding and trim off excess length.
•
Stitch remainder of binding seam.
•
Press the newly created seam.
4. Fold and press binding away from the quilt. Then fold binding to the wrong side, covering the stitching line and
tucking in corners to form miters. Hold binding in place with Wonder Clips or pins.
5. Secure edge of binding by stitching in the ditch from the right side, sewing in the well of the seam through all
layers to catch the folded edge on the back of the quilt. Or, hand stitch folded edge in place.
S
h
a
r
e
n
's
h
a
p
p
y to be at the final stage of attaching the binding!
Label your quilt
Your finished quilt deserves a label. Embroider or print a message on fabric; attach to the back of the quilt.
Ta Da! You’re finished.
Thank you for following along with the 10 steps. It’s been a pleasant journey with a rewarding end result.
Here’s a review of the links for all the steps:
Step 1—Sort out fabrics from several stashes
Step 2—Cut column strips and center patchy strips
Step 3—Stitch column lengths
Step 4—Stitch the patchy center columns
Step 5—Create the columns
Step 6—Piece the quilt top
Step 7—Audition borders
Step 8—Add borders
Step 9—Layer and quilt your creation
Step 10—Binding and labeling
Quilt for Others with “Quilt to Give” Learn how to set-up and organize a Quilt to Give Event.
When you make a Quilt to Give, be sure to post photos of your progress and finished quilt at the Sew Along with
Nancy Zieman flickr site or on my Facebook page.
The gift is in the giving!
Quilt to Give: Step Nine—Layer & Quilt Your Creation
We’re fast approaching the end of the Quilt to Give project. Now it’s time for the mechanics of quilting, where you
have a couple of options.
Several of us at my office were involved with the making of the quilt. My original thought was to tie the layers
together, using an old-fashioned, portable, quilting frame made of four 1″ x 2″ boards. That’s the way my family
quilted. When push came to shove, we had other deadlines to meet, so our good friend Sue Petruske, at Pleasant
Valley Farm Longarm Quilting, came to our rescue. Within three days the layers were quilted! You can contact Sue
at [email protected].
S
u
s
a
n
P
e
tr
u
s
k
e — Pleasant Valley Farm Longarm Quilting
If you’d like to machine quilt your project, there are books galore on this topic. The tips below are from my book,
Quilt with Confidence. Since we did not quilt the layers ourselves, I don’t have photos to share with you. The
illustrations are from the book, Quilt with Confidence.
Layering the Quilt
Cut backing fabric and batting approximately 3″ larger than the quilt top on all sides.
Place the backing, wrong side up, on a firm clean surface.
Securely tape the backing to the surface, using Sewer’s Fix-It Tape or masking tape.
Choose the batting best suited for your quilt.
Center the batting over the backing and smooth the surface so that it lies flat.
Center the quilt top, right side up, over the batting.
Pin quilt layers together using size 1 Curved Basting Pins. Start pinning at the center and work toward the outer
edges.
Place pins 3″–4″ apart and no closer than 1/2″ from seams to allow room for the presser foot when machine
quilting.
Remove the tape once the pinning is complete.
Baste a scant 1/4″ from outer edges.
Stitch in the Ditch
Stitching in the well of the seams is the easiest way to quilt this column quilt. Quilt from the center to the outside
of your quilt to avoid shifting and bunching. Roll your quilt from the sides to the middle, leaving an open space in
the center to begin the stitching.
Adjust the sewing machine for machine quilting.
Use a medium length straight stitch with a balanced tension.
Thread the top of the machine with cotton thread matched to the fabric. Or, use a monofilament thread. Available
in clear or smoke colorations, monofilament thread blends with a wide variety of fabric colorations, making thread
changes unnecessary.
Insert a machine quilting needle.
Adjust the machine to stop with the needle in the down position.
Use a Walking Foot to feed the fabric evenly. It’s important to prevent the layers of the quilt sandwich from
shifting, and a Walking Foot helps feed all the layers through the machine smoothly and evenly. You’ll really need
this foot or a comparable feature to prevent shifting of the long seams.
Machine quilt, stitching in the well of the seamlines with matching or monofilament thread (I love Madeira’s
quality) so that stitches are less conspicuous.
Stitch around each column block, as well as along the border seams.
Be sure to post photos of your progress at the Sew Along with Nancy Zieman flickr site.
You’re almost there! The final step is next. Here are the links to all the steps:
Quilt to Give: Step Eight—Add Borders
We’re already at step eight of the 10-step process of creating a Quilt to Give. I’ve appreciated your comments
about this sew along project, knowing that many of you will make a quilt later this year. Whenever you have time
to make and then donate a Quilt to Give, it will be received with great gratitude!
Add Borders
Adding borders to a quilt is much like stitching the columns together. There’s lots of straight stitching! Before the
stitching step, the borders must be cut. The border sizes are not consistent.
1. Cut the borders.
Twin Quilt with a single border: (Finished size 66″ x 88″)
Cut eight 3-1/4″ crosswise strips. (3/4 yd.)
Double Quilt with a double borders: (Finished size 80″ x 96″)
For inner border, cut eight 1-1/2″ crosswise strips. (1/3 yd.)
For outer border, cut eight 6-1/2″ crosswise strips. (1-1/2 yd.)
Queen Quilt with double borders: (Finished size 88″ x 92″)
For inner border, cut eight 1-1/2″ crosswise strips. (1/3 yd.)
For outer border, cut nine 5-1/2″ crosswise strips. (1-1/4 yd.)
King with double borders: (Finished size 102″ x 92″)
For inner border, cut nine 1-1/2″ crosswise strips. (3/8 yd.)
For outer border, cut ten 5-1/2″ crosswise strips. (1-1/4 yd.) Stitch the border lengths.
2. Stitch the strips together to create the needed length.
Create four borders by joining two crosswise strips as shown below. For queen and king sizes, stitch three strips
end to end to create the needed length. For additional information on borders, see Quilt with Confidence.
To save time, chain stitch pairs of fabric strips.
3. Stitch the borders to the quilt top.
Align and pins single borders (twin) and inner border (double, queen, and king sizes) to the sides of the quilt.
Cut off excess length if applicable.
Stitch and press the seam allowances toward the border.
Align and pin single or inner borders to the top and lower edge of the quilt. Stitch and press the seam allowances
toward the border. Cut off excess length if applicable.
Repeat the process for the outer borders.
4. Give the quilt top a final pressing.
•
Lay the quilt flat until the next step!
Step nine is next. Here are the links to all the steps:
Quilt to Give: Step Seven—Audition Borders
The seventh step of creating a Quilt to Give doesn’t involve the sewing machine at all! Instead, auditioning fabric
for the border or borders is the next process.
Borders can make or break a quilt design. In my mind’s eye, I envision what I’m sure will be the perfect border.
Nine out of 10 times—it’s not right when I see the proposed fabric laid next to the quilt top. Here’s the process that
my staff and I took for the border process.
I was on a business trip in Dallas when the sewing studio staff finished the quilt top. This project has been a
community effort! I made some of the quilt at home and the remainder of it was sewn by Sue, Lois, and Sharen.
I left suggestions as to what I thought would be nice border options. Surely one of these ideas would be perfect!
#1—patchy inner border with turquoise outer border
#2—turquoise inner border with patchy outer border
#3–turquoise border with patchy binding.
Digital photos were taken and emailed to me. My first reaction was, ugh!
B
o
r
d
e
r
a
u
d
it
i
on #1—No!
B
o
r
d
e
r
a
u
d
it
i
on #2—No!
B
o
r
d
e
r
a
u
d
it
i
on #3—another no!
Arriving back to the office the next day, I found the quilt laid out on the floor. Down on floor I went, auditioning
fabrics.
The overwhelming choice was a small black inner border and a green outer border. Solicit help from friends when
auditioning borders. You’ll know when the right border is selected, there will be a collective “That’s it!”
A
u
d
it
i
o
n
b
o
r
d
er #4—"That's it!"
Alas, not enough fabric! Lois went shopping and purchased a green shade of fabric that blended with the existing
coloration. Since the quilt design has the patchy column centers, a coordinate was an ideal choice. While she was
shopping, she also purchased a wide quilt backing fabric for the twin-sized quilt.
Step eight is next. Here are all the links to each step:

Quilt to Give - Sewing With Nancy

Transcription

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