10 trend - GIA Magazine

HUBEN HUBENOV
EDITOR IN CHIEF /
FASHION DIRECTOR
[email protected]
SLAV
EDITOR IN CHIEF /
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
[email protected]
DEPUT Y EDITOR
VASIL SHTEREV
[email protected]
EDITORS
ANNA WARD
[email protected]
SVETOSLAV PETROV
[email protected]
YANA GEROVA
[email protected]
contributors
aleko osenski
don rodrigues
elena nenkova
krassimir dimitrov
lazar goushev
nadia sarwar
nico iliev
nikolay pachev
orlin hristov
petya cholakova
philipp jelenska
suckingfish
tihomir rachev
vasil germanov
zheni kovacheva
amanda lepore is photographed
by nico iliev and is wearing bra by
agent provocateur, earrings
and necklace by dsquared and
fur by northern furs
It would’ve been logical to follow the path of the lowest resistance, and now on your monitors would’ve been glowing some
kind of a Christmas catalogue, urging you to go and mindlessly
buy everything you see in the nearest mall, smiling celebrities,
speaking warm and kind words about the holidays and their families, and their personal success and wishes, and a whole bunch of
other bullshit.
Instead, we decided to be controversial and to point our attention
to something else, something that have been of greatest interest
in fashion, in popculture and for us, for like twenty years (before
that, we didn’t bother for sex, let alone for unisex).
We wave goodbye to the fashion decade, with just a single Christmas wish – the gender and sexual issue, no longer to be an issue.
Never.
But as the realists we are, we fully realise that our wish won’t be
fulfilled instantly.
WHILE WE WERE MAKING THIS ISSUE WE LISTENED TO M.I.A., ROBYN,
GRACE JONES, AMANDA LEPORE, GORILLAZ, WE LOVE, THE KNIFE
AND ENRIQUE IGLESIAS.
4 DECEMBER: EVENTS
8 BLOGGER: NADIA SARWAR
10 TREND: UNISEX MINIMALISM
16 COMMENTARY: WHAT IT FEELS LIKE FOR AN ANDROGYNE?
20 BEAUT Y: BACKSTAGE
30 DESIGNER: DINO ALVES
36 BEAUT Y: IN THE YEAR 2525
48 DESIGNER: THE HOLY TRINIT Y
52 EDITORIAL: WICKED GAME
74 ICON: SHE, AMANDA LEPORE
78 EDITORIAL: AMANDA
84 INTERVIEW: EVE SALVAIL
88 MODEL: ANDREJ PEJIC
90 EDITORIAL: UNISEXIST
128 TIMELINE: UNISX
132 EDITORIAL: DOUBLE TROUBLE
146 INTERVIEW: JULIAN KIRILOV
150 EDITORIAL: DREAM
164 EDITORIAL: TAINTED
172 POP
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Jonathan Saunders
We like him, not only because of
his former work at Pollini (admit it,
you’ve forgotten about them until
Joe put his elegant signature) and
the impressive feel-good prints for
his own label.
He just know how to surprise us.
Like now – who would’ve
guessed he would do a capsule
collect for Escada Sport Resort?
Yeah, but yeah – around 20
looks (completed with leather
accessories) will be sold in Escada
boutiques around the world from
November 2011. They will be
presented first with his own cruise
collection for 2012.
In London and Paris, where else.
Christopher Kane
Was it worth the wait?
You tell us, the next time you stop
by the Dover Street Market, where
for the first time Christopher
Kane presented his ‘experimental’
menswear line.
We’re not completely sure if
the nebula prints (derived from
his cruise 2011 collection) are,
the perfect start but we hope
the capsule collection to be a
beginning of a new line for
the brand.
Alexa Chung
Yes, we’re tired to see her in
invented style ranks.
Thom Browne
And another brave brand crossed
on ‘the other side’.
But we sure are impatient to see
her new television show,
called ‘Thrift America’.
American designer Thom Browne
limited himself for a very long time
(more than a decade) in creating
only men’s clothes, but the time
for change apparently came.
In it Alexa will eagerly scour
vintage stores and markets,
looking for fashion troves, for
which (having in mind her
excellent taste) we would
undoubtedly wait for her in the
next dark alley...
The first models from his debut
in womenswear for spring 2011
are, of course, inspired by the
men’s wardrobe – with sharp
tailoring, clean lines, and the black
and white are in the collection’s
foundation.
Modesty in perfect
proportions – how nice of him.
Missoni
It’s official: next on ToyWatch’s
schedule are Missoni.
Well, with few blessed mortals,
but only if they’re fast.
They could choose (or not)
between six models, each of
which is cloned in only 250 pieces.
It’s chic, not only because of the
idea of exclusivity, but also for the
designer ‘strap’, which is actually
a silk scarf with Missoni’s famous
zig-zag pattern.
And don’t try to fake it, we’ll know.
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Dolce&Gabbana
‘A milestone in fashion history’ –
that’s what the people responsible
for the costume history exhibition
‘Les années 1900-2000: Histoire
Idéale de la Mode Contemporaine.
Vol. 2’ at the Parisian Musee
Des Arts Decoratifs called two
models of the designer duo
Dolce&Gabbana.
Maybe it’s pure coincidence,
but the first one, a rhinestone
corset from fall 1991 (known
as Le Pin Up) has been worn by
Madonna on the premiere of
Truth or Dare, that same year.
The second one, a metal dress
from the New Sexy Glam
collection (from 2007), became
famous thanks to its biggest fan –
Lady Gaga.
Coco Chanel
What else we don’t know
about mademoiselle Chanel?
Jean Leymarie gives us a hint
with his book, simply called,
‘Chanel’. The main idea revolves around the careful
dissection of Coco’s connections with the art world, her
close friendship with Picasso
and Dali, and, of course, their
influences on her collections.
There are also photographs
of Coco Chanel, Jean Cocteau,
Modigliani, Matisse.
Actually, the book is from
1987, but the original edition
is impossible to find, and this
is the new edition of the same.
You can choose between
French and English.
Comme des Garçons
Merry Happy Crazy Colour is not
the name of a musical greeting
card, but that of the limited
Christmas collection of Comme
des Garçons, which already is on
its of becoming a tradition.
From small backpacks and
polka-dot teddy bears, to massive
necklaces, t-shirts and perfumes in
handmade bottles – you can find it
at Dover Street Market.
And it’s all well packed in dark
packages from the Assume Visual
Auto Focus campaign, so no one
really knows what they are buying,
until they open it...
We can’t wait.
Prada
The Prada Private project
continues with the exemplary
idea of sunglasses collection
for men and women.
Jimmy Choo
Twenty-four-seven is our favourite
scheme. We’re so addicted to it,
that we can’t even remember
the rest...
Thanks to the special frames with
customizable details, you can
write yours, or Muicca’s initials,
or just personalize the model by
your taste not only with letters
and numbers, but also with the
exclamation mark, heart, star or
skull symbols.
Jimmy Choo were the first to
see the truth, and they offered a
collection for every day and
every hour – 24:7
The basic frames come in three
colours – black, white and brown.
Now the collection will have
it’s logical continuation – a line
of bags under the same name,
including suitcases, clutches,
business and party bags.
Coming in February 2011.
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When did you start your
blog and why?
I started FrouFrouu.com in
February 2009 as a creative outlet
and a means of documenting my
personal inspirations and style.
finding new ways to wear
old pieces.
Where do you like to shop?
Vintage shops and eBay.
What was your first post about?
It was a brief blurb on the sixties,
which are a continuous source of
inspiration for me.
Who are your favourite
designers?
Charles Anastase! His collections
are consistently breathtaking, he
can do no wrong in my eyes.
How would you describe
your style?
An erratic, masculine take
on vintage.
Do you have a favourite piece in
your wardrobe?
One of my vintage robes for
versatility and general elegance.
Are you influenced by trends?
On some level, I am, but I'm also
careful to avoid those that don't
suit my personal aesthetic.
And what do you think noone
should live without?
I can't speak for anyone else, but
I'd be lost without a hat in my
wardrobe!
Do you think it's expensive
to be well-dressed?
Not at all. It's a matter of
reworking one's existing wardrobe,
Since when are you interested in
fashion?
I'm not too sure when ‘fashion’
entered my consciousness, but
style has played a role in my life
for longer than I can remember.
What kind of equipment you use
to shoot your pictures?
I'm currently using a Canon 50D
with a whole host of lenses, but
I'm flirting with the idea of an
upgrade.
What do you do, besides
blogging?
I thrift, work, style, skulk around
antique shops, photograph,
scour eBay, design, eat too much
chocolate, write, explore, create.
www.froufrouu.com
Oh, and check Nadia’s editorial,
on page 164
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What is the exact purpose of
worldwide designers to create
unisexual clothes?
Is it all just about the trends?
Or maybe the gender minimalism
will become the signature style of
the first decade of the
twenty-first century,
and probably for many years
to come.
Perhaps the designers feel that
by creating unisex collections,
and by vanishing the traces of
sex, they empower the individual
personality and create a strong
cultural resonance.
Or at least that's what we like to
think.
What is unisex clothing?
That's a pretty wide term
nowadays, but there are certain
elements identified as such.
Elements like trenchcoats, biker
jackets, trousers in general, biker
and cowboy boots...
It becomes pretty sexist, right?
But we think it's a good thing,
that fashion is getting more and
more liberating, and if once it
was scandalous for a woman to
wear men clothes, and vice versa,
today it's...well, fashionable.
Just think of modern style
icons like Charles Guislain, for
instance. And if some may call
it travesty, or others refer to it
with the slightly offensive term
'fashionista', we like to think of
such examples as just 'unisex'.
But how all this reflects the
collections and translates to the
catwalk? Let's have a look.
Rad Hourani
It would be an understatement
if we call Rad Hourani the apostle
of unisex.
The guy shoved a collection
for men and women in our faces,
and we loved it.
His objective is to create garments
that can be worn by anyone at any
time, so he subverts the bi-annual
fashion calendar to some extent
by fusing and blending seasonal
stereotypes into an adaptable
innovation system based on
aseasonal collections identified
only by their sequential number.
Comme des Garcons
It starts with the name.
For those of you, who don't speak
French, it means 'like the boys'.
Plus, everything is black and white,
transformable, and very well
made.
And even though some parts of
her latest collection are strictly
feminine, there are lots of options
we could see on certain guys
(yes, our editor in chief too).
What more can we ask for?
And like the boys it is.
It's a tradition for Rei Kawakubo
to play with some ideas for the
time being, but we can't
say we don't love it.
We could never get fed up with
the men-styled shoes, or the
blazers, or the extra-voluminous
art she tries to create
on our bodies.
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Alexander Wang
We’re still not completely sure
if the young American designer
is a genuis, or he’s famous just
because Anna Wintour likes him.
And we’re equally unsure if the
over-praised spring collection is
good or not.
But one thing is certain – the
mostly monochromatic ensembles
he showed in New York are
pretty un-sexy.
The silhouette denied the feminine
characteristics like breasts, hips,
waists and even legs through
hidden under flowing satins and
organza harem and parachute
pants.
Maison Martin Margiela
‘Men’s wardrobe over the women’s
body’ was stated is the idea of
collection. And perhaps the
guys at Margiela took the
‘wardrobe’ idea too literal,
in it’s furniture sense.
Todd Lynn
If Todd Lynn created his clothes
in the fifties he would be
uber-progressive.
Now, it starts to look like
future-retro, but we
like it nontheless.
Oh, don’t get us wrong, we loved
it. We love Margiela by default.
Yes, we say the space age
is now, and if we still don't fly
for a brunch to the Moon in our
personal space-convertible,
that doesn't mean that we can't
dress like it.
And what is more desexifying than
an oversized rectangular piece
of fabric, plastic and whatever in
front of your breasts?
Yeah, we couldn’t think of
anything, too.
And where's the unisex here?
Well, all over the place.
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WHAT IT FEELS LIKE FOR
AN ANDROGYNE?
We guess most of the boys know
what it feels like for a girl and
vice versa. But what it feels like
for an androgyne? What is an
androgyne? Does it really exist?
The word ‘androgyny’ derives from
the Greek andras – man and
gyne – woman. It means
combination of masculine
and feminine characteristics.
Androgyny differs from
transsexuality, which occurs when
a person strongly identifies with
the other sex, e.g. a woman feels
like, and wishes to physically
become a man. And it also differs
from hermaphroditism.
Androgyny is based on gender
ambiguity rather than the display
of dual sexual characteristics.
One of the many impersonations
of Lady Gaga this year included
the photo shoot in the Vogue
Hommes Japan as Jo Calderone.
Innovative as she is,
David Bowie, Grace Jones, Marilyn
Manson, Twiggy, Diane Keaton
(as Annie Hall) and Tilda Swinton,
among others, demonstrated the
androgynous look many years
before her.
The art world has been obsessed
with this duality since forever.
In Ancient Greece the actors were
always men and male played
female roles. The Greeks even
had an androgynous goddess Athena - represented in distinct
male or female forms.
Renaissance artists depicted ‘the
beautiful boy’ on the verge of
manhood full of femininity, ideally
epitomized by Donatello’s David.
In 1970, David Bowie brought
androgyny to the main stream.
He wore a ‘man’s dress’ on the
cover of his album ‘The Man Who
Sold the World’ which marked
the beginning of the glam rock
movement. The androgynous
look hit massively the stage and
it’s still continuing to serve as an
inspiration to many. Just think of
fashion designers and trendsetters
as Helmut Lang, Giorgio Armani,
and Pierre Cardin, to name a few,
for their unisex-styled clothes.
The so called androgynous look women wearing men clothes and
male models on baby-food diet
(in order not to gain weight) is
considered as something ordinary
nowadays.
But is this just a pose or there
are people who are genuinely
genderless?
Antony Hegarty from ‘Antony and
the Johnsons’ identifies himself
as a transgender. He says in one
of his interviews that he did not
become transgender on purpose
but the nature has willed it so,
despite the desire of society to
see him otherwise. He sees his
transgender as not a quirk of
nature, but a blessing, almost a
profession of faith.
The book ‘The Spirit & the Flesh’
by Walter L. Williams, subtitled
‘Sexual Diversity in American Indian
Culture’ deeply influenced Antony.
It presents many examples of
communities considered primitive
that worshiped androgynes
because it was believed that they
had two spirits residing inside
them. They are the so called twospirit persons and usually combine
two contrasting roles e.g. Warrior
and Clan Mother.
The Native Americans believed
that the two-spirits are a third
gender - possessing the ability
to see the world as a man and a
woman at the same time.
This was considered as a special
gift to be shared with the rest of
the community.
They were treated with the
greatest respect, and held
important spiritual and
ceremonial responsibilities.
As it turns out, there are two
types of androgyny – physical
and psychological. The former
refers to physical traits that may
exist or not, e.g. a woman with
small breasts and facial hair may
appear more male than female.
Whereas the latter indicates the
gender identity and reflects how
one defines their sex – between
genders or even genderless.
And while all androgynes are
psychologically androgynous, not
all androgynous-looking people
are androgynes.
In other words a man can look
feminine but feel like a man
opposed to when a man looks
like androgynous and feels like an
androgyne.
We live in a world where
everything needs to be defined
and explained. We are afraid of
the unknown and we prefer to
ignore it or even worse - to deny it.
Boys shouldn’t play with dolls and
wear skirts and girls shouldn’t be
soldiers or wear trousers.
But Yin and Yang coexist in every
one of us with one of them
supposedly being predominant
than the other. What if we let go
of our prejudices and embrace
the both powers. Aren’t we all
androgynous?
One transgender explains in a blog
‘I feel like two people standing but
you could see only one of them.’
This isn’t the case with everybody
but the strict distinction between
genders is definitely gone forever.
Some researchers say that men
can have ‘women’s brains’ and
that women can think more like
men. Nonetheless seeing the
world from the both perspective
can give a huge advantage. The
combination can turn oneself
into the unisex human being
that transcends all labels and
circumstances.
Long live the Unisex.
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Dino Alves is a noted Portuguese
designer who was born in Arcos,
Anadia in 1967. At first he studied
painting in Oporto Art Polytechnic
and continued with photography
in the INEF Institute. During 1994
after working for the Portuguese
Cinema Archives he began to
design theatrical clothing.
Dino was involved in numerous
national events and he was also
responsible for the image of the
Portuguese contestants at the
Eurovision Song Festival in 2005
and 2006.
From the very beginning of his
career Dino’s shows has always
been about bringing theatre in
fashion and transforming the
runway show into a stage play. In
his shows it’s not just about the
clothes but also about the concept
they generate, the imaginative
world they belong to, and the
attitude they bring. It seems like
Dino Alves perfectly understands
what intrigues the public. Show
after show he tries something
controversial and in many cases
reveals the dirtiness of the human
mind.
Some compare Dino Alves to John
Galliano. That is a pretty brave
comment, but if we look at Dino’s
works, the way he interprets
fashion and how he plays with the
characters and presents them on
the runway then we could really
say that he is somehow
Galliano-ish.
What a controversial
fall-winter 2010/11 show it
was in ModaLisboa! And if
the auditory expected to see
a show not expectable then
their expectations turned to be
right. Male models walked down
the runway dressed in classic
male clothing combined with
female associated details – a
transformation from masculine
into feminine. One of the main
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aesthetic influences here appears
to be the Japanese kabuki theatre,
dating back to the early XVII
century, where transvestite men
were the only performers on stage.
Dino’s collections, however,
sometimes end up at a totally
different point of view. Some
of them belong to a more
minimalistic approach, where
colors and shapes are clearly
stated and understood. The
diversity of Dino’s creations brings
unpredictability and excitement to
the audience.
We talked a little bit with Dino,
about his motivation and about his
designs. Here’s what he shared.
Why did you decide to involve in
fashion design?
Because it was natural for my
personality. When I was young, I
thought that fashion was a little
bit empty - that’s why I decided to
study Arts. However, in my whole
life my attitude was always very
fashionable, so it was inevitable
for me to become a fashion
designer.
Is there something about fashion
that you don’t like? Something
you want to change?
I don’t like the unnatural style.
Fashion is inside us, if not, we are
out of fashion.
I would like to change the
importance of appearance.
When was your first show?
It was in 1994, in a very alternative
and spontaneous event in Lisbon,
named Manobras de Maio
What makes ModaLisboa special?
Being in Lisbon.
What inspired your fall-winter
2010/11 collection?
First of all I always want to look
for something nobody ever
did and the beginning of this
collection was that idea for the
presentation on the catwalk - men
as women. Then, the concept for
the collection came after and how
it was suppose to be part of the
fashion show.
Have you ever felt insecure about
that show?
That it was going to be too brave
and too controversial?
Yes, I have. However, I always
knew the risk I took and that’s also
what inspired me and made me
motivated.
What is your personal favorite
piece of the collection?
The pink silk shirt with the extra
large collar and the first black
dress.
How does a typical Dino Alves
client look like?
Confident, young and with
attitude.
What are your favorite places
to shop?
I love markets, second hand shops,
for example. Also, any concept
stores.
If you can dress a celebrity in your
clothes, who would that be?
Perhaps David Bowie and Amália,
if she was still alive.
What is your favorite place
on Earth?
The desert in Africa, and my city,
Lisbon.
If there is one thing you can wish
to happen in the next 24 hours
what would that be?
The cure for certain diseases.
www.dinoalves.eu
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Phoebe's childhood passes in a
hippie-occupied London neighbourhood,
and her father is an a artist, famous for his
David Bowie album covers.
The youngest one in the group – Hannah, ruled
the streets of Camden, a usual scene of music
videos and movies. 'My childhood was actually
an endless party', she says.
The alternative family environment didn't
stop all three of them of going to aristocratic
schools, where they wore synthetic uniforms –
shirts, jackets and pleated skirts.
In 1997, Stella was appointed creative director
of the house of Chloe.
Her first decision there was to invite Phoebe
as her assistant. The second – to clean the
last bit of bourgeois manners and traditions
suffocating the French brand.
She created an elegant everyday wear for
different generations of women, who love
the 't-shirt and jeans' combination. 'No one
was showing t-shirts or wifebeaters on the
catwalk then. But I broke that wall', she is
satisfied.
The printed Chloe t-shirts and the aviator
We admire their creations, and
enough to navigate their own
we do not fear to mix their names. lives, and to know their price.
Celine, Chloe, Stella McCartney –
They've accepted with gratitude
the mistake is always true, after
the gifts that have been given:
they created a new, almost
the best from menswear,
religious movement in fashion,
perfected to the status of
which the critics called 'the new
uberfemininity. White t-shirts,
modesty'.
shirts, oversize jackets and coats,
wideleg trousers and cardigans,
Its apostles are Phoebe Philo,
which can be worn everywhere
Hannah McGibbon and
and combined with everything.
Stella McCartney.
Their sermon states: minimalistic
Mostly with each other, because
cut and expensive materials.
in the end of day, this could easily
be three equally strong parts of a
Their worshipers are not girls,
single collection, created by three
but real women – women grown
equally strong women.
They are all blondes.
They are British, and over thirty.
They have families and wonderful
children. And they're all friends,
since the nineties, when they met
at Central Saint Martin's.
Stella was a course higher than
Phoebe, and Phoebe was an year
away from Hannah.
Stella grew up in more than
artistic family – there's no other
way, when your dad is
Paul McCartney, and your
mother is a vintage-obsessed
photographer.
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sunglasses line was sold in a
record time. The jealous guardians
of Parisian traditions had no other
choice but to step back.
Four years later Stella leaves Chloe,
in order to focus on the work for
her own brand, Stella McCartney,
and she's replaced by her former
assistant Phoebe Philo.
And guess who she appointed as
her assistant?
That's right – Hannah McGibbon,
who was already gaining
experience as assistant-director
at Valentino.
Chloe's style gradually became
softer, and more romantic, but
without losing the solid ground
left by Stella, even when they
presented doll-dresses and
jeans pinafores.
On the peak of her success,
in 2006, Phoebe is expecting
a second child, and leaves the
house 'to spend more time with
her family', as stated in the official
press-release.
The time has come for Chloe to
fall in the arms of the third blonde
British, who succeeds in upgrading
with her subtle style the efforts of
her predecessors.
The foundation of the cult has
already been layed. The time is
expected for it to blow full-scale
and to clean up the closets of
millions of women of their million
unnecessary stuff.
in 2009 as creative director of
Celine, with her impeccably cut
collection, featuring iconic clothes
like the coat, the tuxedo and the
black trouser.
'The best way to re-proclaim
yourself is to stake on classics,
while everybody else is into
innovative design. It's remarkable
how much you can perfect already
available clothes. It's all in the
details – the cuff-length, the
shoulder lines, the buttoning. The
destiny of a collection is decided in
millimeters.', says Phoebe.
The catalyst is Phoebe Philo.
'Today, all I want to create are
things I would want in my
warderobe', claims McGibbon.
She returns to the fashion scene
In result, this fall we have the
perfect balance between elegance
and modesty, for which we envied
for so long the men, wearing
bespoke from Savile Row.
In all three collections we see
the ideally flattering trousers.
The coats, reliable like armors.
And cozy as our favourite t-shirt
dresses.
All three of them give us exactly
what we need and want, and we'll
continue following the cult, even
though we risk unifying ourselves.
And the best part is, we don't
have to jealously peek in the boys
wardrobe.
www.stellamccartney.com
www.celine.com
www.chloe.com
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It is a chilly autumn night in
Gramercy Park, New York.
In a small room on the second
floor of Hotel 17 - an old-world
auberge that once housed an
unknown singer named Madonna,
Amanda Lepore applies the
finishing touches to her look.
Shortly, Nico Iliev will arrive to
shoot her in what will become,
perhaps, her most intimate
fashion story to date.
Holding a tiny, rhinestoneencrusted mirror before her
famously pouty lips, she
smiles approvingly:
There is no team of invisible
elves here to orchestrate Ms.
Lepore's latest take on Hollywood
bombshell glamour. Tonight, and
on most nights, Amanda does
her own hair and makeup, and
is her own stylist. This shoot will
take place in her own bedroom,
as it might look on a typical
night. Moreover, she studded
that swath of rhinestones onto
that little mirror - and matching
clutch, lipstick case, and Christian
Louboutin pumps. She uses a
similar technique to embellish
many of her already-fabulous
dresses, one of which can be seen
‘It’s done. I’m ready.’ on her in her new music video,
'Marilyn'. This hauntingly campy
tune, produced by French-Welsh
electroclash duo Risque, is the
lead track on her upcoming fulllength album, 'I... Amanda Lepore'.
'I go to the garment district and
buy bags of Swarovski crystals,
different colors and shapes
and sizes. I love to coordinate
accessories.' I take a closer look
at the clutch and am impressed
by its weight, and the intricate
arrangement of small and large
stones on its sides. 'If I can't get it
in a store, I hire someone, or just
do it myself. Some people think it's
crazy to spend that much money,
or it looks cheap, but I don't care.
I'm all about what works for me.'
The results of Ms. Lepore's efforts
this evening suggest, and are
in fact, anything but 'cheap'.
Dripping in fur, three-of-a-kind
runway baubles, bespoke designs
and coveted European couture
from head-to-toe, Amanda Lepore
is a mythic fashion presence. The
value of this ensemble easily tops
$25,000. Far more costly than the
above-average editorial look, an
'outfit' of this quality is de rigueur
in Ms. Lepore's fantastically
stylish universe.
Though she's about to shoot,
she hasn't taken any particular
precautions. 'This is how I dress
when I go to a party. I'm really
into fur right now, and crystals,
so I'm working-in these elements
too.' Amanda checks herself
again in the mirror. 'I've created
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this illusion, this persona, and it's
my job to keep it going. It gets
expensive.’
Eschewing novelty and trendiness
in favor of preserving the integrity
of her iconic look, Ms. Lepore
falls in a line of hyper-glamorous
self-stylists and beauties that
includes Audrey Hepburn, Jackie
O, and of course her own great
muse, Marilyn. 'I'm obsessed with
Marilyn Monroe, Jane Mansfield,
you know, over-the-top blondes,
classic Hollywood types. There's
a darkness to having that kind
of beauty, extreme beauty, and
I embrace that.' A painting of a
reclining Pre-Raphaelite nymph,
very much in this mode, decorates
the space just above her smaller
armoire. 'But I'm always looking
for something new, a new twist on
classic. I'm always working with
new designers, trying new looks
and ideas. And I meet the most
talented and inspiring people all
the time.'
Even though we have very little
time to chat tonight, I spend a few
minutes catching up on downtown
gossip - one of Amanda's favorite
topics. On this point she perks up
and recalls a recent evening spent
with Daphne Guinness, one of the
world's most revered self-stylists.
'She is really cool right now. I had
dinner with her on Sunday, before
the GLAAD awards, and I got
to check out her closet. It was
sick.' Like Ms. Guinness, Amanda
is a consummate shopper who
actually knows quite a lot about
clothes. 'She has the Nina Ricci
shoes, all these Phillip Tracey
hats. She wears extreme things,
but makes it look effortless - like
everything is just thrown on. I
always like to see what she's
wearing.' The two globe-trotting
icons recently shot a campaign
for NARS, and often spend time
together when David LaChapelle
visits town. 'She knows how to
accessorize. Little details - the
shoes, the scarf, the combination
of materials. Plus, she's incredibly
sweet, and there's such good
energy in her apartment.'
I ask Amanda about the concept
for this shoot. 'There really isn't
a concept. To be myself, I guess.
After I get ready, this is how I
look.' I ask her how many looks
she's planned. 'None. I mean, the
one I have on now. That's all.' She
glances to a stack of dresses on
the bed and laughs. 'You know, I
have a lot of options. And I love to
change. But the point, I guess, is
that this is me.’
Amanda’s cell phone rings.
‘Nico is here. I’m so excited!
Do I look good?’
Coming from Amanda Lepore,
this might sound like a trick
question. Mr. Iliev’s photos, at
the least, show that Ms. Lepore is
looking historically fabulous right
now. With nods to Helmut Newton
and Madonna’s ‘Justify My Love’
video, shot in Paris by
Jean-Baptiste Mondino exactly
twenty years ago, the photos
capture the frosty sumptuousness
of an enchanted boudoir.
Amanda’s body has never looked
better, and the only ‘flaw’ in
her complexion is a strategically
placed mole.
We continue chatting, and Nico
begins shooting. Perhaps the
most photographed personality
in New York, Amanda is positively
awakened by the presence of
the camera. In many ways a
photographer’s dream, she is also
a judicious model with a keen
sense of how she wishes to be
represented. Pausing between
poses to examine Nico’s captures,
she takes a closer look at one of
the more revealing shots.
Not surprisingly, designers around
the world shower Ms. Lepore
with gifts. One of Amanda's most
telling fashion encounters - one I
witnessed, in this very room, four
years ago - involves Marc Jacobs
who sent her a Grecian goddess
dress made for Louis Vuitton.
Unfortunately, it was not quite
made for its intended goddess,
Amanda Lepore. 'It was the nicest
gift, and it looked incredible on
Gisele, but on me, it was just
unflattering. I tried taking it in
Nico has collaborated with
here and there, like I do with most
Amanda on merchandising
things that aren't tailored for my
projects ranging from a limitedbody, but it didn't work. I ended up edition calendar sold at Patricia
giving it to a friend, this tall, skinny Field to a campaign for her
transsexual girl.' Amanda glances
perfume, 'Amanda,' which was
toward her famously overstuffed
featured at Art Basel in Miami.
closet, then turns to me. 'I mean,
This powerful floral scent, with
look at me: I have this tiny waist
distinct traces of lipstick and
and a big, heart-shaped ass. How
champagne, perfumes the entire
am I going to fit in a model's
second floor of Hotel 17.
sample size? I don't have room for
things that don't fit. This girl tried
'I love working with Nico. We
it on, and she looked amazing. So I kind of do the same thing each
gave it to her.'
time, but with a twist. There's
always a twist.' Their first shoot,
It’s not quite 10 PM, and
memorably, took place in this very
room, and produced the cover
for Amanda's single-remix album,
'Fierce Pussy.'
'His work is decadent, and really,
really beautiful. This is how I
see myself. I work with a lot of
amazing photographers, but Nico
takes pictures of me as I actually
see myself.' Amanda stows the
mirror into her purse and sits
casually on her bed. The small but
ornate room, a fantasy of French
toile and red velvet, suddenly
feels like another of Amanda's
magnificently constructed
accessories.
Just before midnight her cell
phone rings again. The car will
be here in five minutes. Always
pressed for time, Amanda knows
how to summarize. 'It's great to
work with so many big artists,
famous people and amazing
designers, but I am not a designer,
or an artist. I'm definitely not
a performance artist. I mean, I
perform on stage, but that's
different. I'm a singer, and a
model, but that's different to
me.' Referring to her days as a
burlesque performer, she claims
that 'the only performance art
I've ever done involved blowing
balloons up into funny animal
shapes.' She continues: 'I am
myself, and what I do is all
connected to this illusion, this
glamour. I mean, I don't wear
stilettos to the gym - I could never
work out in those,' she confesses,
and laughs.
Ms. Lepore's candid selfassessment conceals the fact
that she's remained a constant
fixture in elite artistic circles,
and a muse to an innumerable
number of prominent artists,
photographers, and musicians.
Her famed collaborations with
David LaChapelle hang in galleries
and important private collections
throughout the world.
Nico continues shooting, and
now Amanda is outside her door,
holding a large rhinestoned
clutch to her chest. Though she is
wrapped in layers of diaphanous
fabric, she appears naked from
a short distance. Nico takes a
shot, and her jewels send a trail
of sparkles down the hallway.
Whether or not Amanda Lepore
is an artisit, it seems, is besides
the point. No one alive does quite
what she does, quite as well as
she does it. 'I've made myself into
something ideal, over-the-top,
fantastical,' she opines, as she
prepares for a close-up. 'It's all
about beauty, extreme beauty. My
life is my job, and it's my job to
make myself look flawless every
time I step outside this room.'
‘I... Amanda Lepore’ will be
released in April 2011.
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How did the modeling happen for
you?
I was discovered by Jean Paul
Gaultier in 1992. He asked me to
walk for his Paris Fashion Show
and after, what seemed to be
so quick, I was everywhere as a
model. He made me an overnight
'supermodel'!
much at such a young age. It also
helped me tremendously with my
deejay career, I play for fashion
shows and after parties, etc. It's a
very demanding career, I always
was jet-lagged and never had time
to eat or take a vacation, but I
personally felt right at home being
a model!
Before that, have you ever
considered a model career?
Never. I was a little punk from a
very small town in Canada and
although as a teenager I followed
a bit of fashion through magazines,
it had never occurred to me that I
could be a fashion model.
Do you consider yourself as an
unisex model?
I know I'm androgynous…
What was your first impression of
the fashion industry?
Crazy! And fast too! I loved the
lifestyle even though it's an
extremely demanding career!
I also very much loved the
eccentricity and artistic side of
fashion.
What are the differences between
Quebec and Paris?
North America and Europe.
Although there is a lot of
European flavor in Québec… And
it's my home.
What are the best and the worst
sides of modeling?
Modeling allowed me to learn so
After so many years, what do you
think of the modeling business?
I don't really know what modeling
is now. I'm sure things have
changed since I was a model. For
me it was a great career I was
lucky enough to have!
Do you consider your modeling
career for over?
Yes.
Did the modeling changed your
life? What would it be if you
haven't done that?
I was studying to become a
graphic designer. I would've
probably continued in that line if it
wasn't for my modeling career. So
yes, it did change my life! It led me
to a new career as a deejay which
I am ever so grateful for! I had a
great time being a model and I
couldn't thank Jean Paul enough
for all he has done for me!
What started your interest in
music, and especially DJing?
I always was fascinated by music in
general. I love the fact that music
reaches beyond language and
that listening to an older a song
can bring you back to that day
you heard it for the first time. It
always felt really natural for me to
DJ. From the first time I tried it, I
knew this was 'it'.
What kind of music inspires you?
I love anything Latin. From Celia
Cruz to Pitbull and even the Gipsy
Kings. It makes me feel very happy
for some reason, it makes people
want to dance. There's not many
genres of music I would play or be
inspired by, but my heart always
sing when I hear a good Latino
song!
Which is more 'you' - to be a
model, or to be a DJ?
I think both are 'me'. Really!
www.djevalicious.com
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There’s a new star at the
center of attention. It caused
disturbance and provoked
endless commentaries with its
appearance on the catwalks of
Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano,
Paul Smith and Raf Simons. ‘It’ is
actually a ‘he’, and his name is
Andrej Pejic.
Andrej Pejic is the model,
who undoubtedly marks the
new fashion decade, with his
appearance at the spring fashion
weeks, and his angelic face, gentle
skin and endless legs drive the
most influential names in the
industry crazy.
The young Australian, who was
born in Bosnia and Herzegovina
is new in business.
His first serious engagement with
the industry begins from February
2010, when he signs
with Storm Models.
For the short time he is modeling,
Andrej appears in one of the most
important magazines like
Arena Homme Plus, Wonderland,
Dazed & Confused, and on the
cover of Oyster.
And more – he poses in front
of Mert Alas & Marcus Pigot’s
camera, to become part of a
Vogue Paris editorial, inspired by
Juliette Greco and Ziggy Stardust,
as well as for Steven Meisel for
Vogue Italy.
Andrej is also part of the infamous
second issue of Candy Magazine,
and Luis Venegas, publisher of
the magazine says: ‘Andrej’s
success is another triumph for the
androgynous look, as an extreme
expression of beauty, and he fits
perfectly Candy’s interests and
image.’
The nineteen-year-old androgyne
is also featured in an exclusive
editorial for the new issue of Tush.
In it, photographer Armin
Morbach and stylist
Ingo Nahrword explore the
boundaries between masculinity
and femininity with archive
clothes from Maison Martin
Margiela, and Andrej is their tool
for the purpose.
Andrej Pejic emerges at the
international scene at a moment,
when androgyny is idolized and
worshiped, not only in fashion.
He is main subject of debates,
commentaries and questions,
the most important of which is:
‘Where were you before?’
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Even though our timeline theme
this month sounds contemporary,
the unisex actually takes us
to its roots centuries ago. The
interaction between the male
and female, and breaking the
boundaries between them, has its
appearances in the ancient world.
Without neglecting those
examples – dignified examples of
the subject, we are going to show
characters and events from the
foreseeable past.
That’s why in passing we give
honor to the ‘unisex’ Goddess
Athena, the woman-warrior Joan
of Arc, the scandalous for her time
George Sand, and focus on the
unisex puzzle in the last century,
which formed the world as we
know it today.
1930
Lili Elbe becomes the
first male-to-female
transsexual person.
1923
Magnus Hirschfeld invents the
term transsexuality.
1910
Coco Chanel opens her Rue
Cambon boutique in Paris.
She is the first coturier to
constantly use her menswear
inspiration in her collections for
women.
1914
Charlie Chaplin stars in the short
movie ‘A Busy Day’. In it he plays
as a wife, filled with jealousy of
her husband’s new trick.
1930
Movie goddess, noted
anti-fascist, and the best
‘present’ from Germany
to USA, Marlene Dietrich
leaves a shining trail
as fashion icon as well.
In her first Hollywood
movies – ‘Morocco’ and
‘Shanghai Express’ she almost institutionalizes the
male suit in the woman’s
wardrobe.
1935
With her movie ‘Sylvia Scarlett’,
Katharine Hepburn consolidates
the a la garcon look and the
menswear trend for women.
1959
In the Hollywood classic ‘Some
like it hot’, directed by Billy Wilder,
Tony Curtis and Jack Lemmon play
as Josephine and Geraldine, thus
making the crossdressing less
scandalous in the eyes of puritans.
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2000
Hilary Swank wins an Oscar for her
role as the transgendered Brandon
Tina in ‘Boys don’t cry’.
1960
Vidal Sassoon resurrects the ‘Bob
style’ – an universal hairstyle for
men and women.
1964
Pierre Cardin presents a collection
for men and women.
1966
The star of the 16-years-old Twiggy
rises. She will be remembered as
an international supermodel and
the first model with the adjective
androgyne nexto her name.
1982
Dustin Hofmann stars in ‘Tootsie’.
1970
David Bowie releases his album
‘The Man Who Sold the World’. On
the cover, he’s wearing a dress.
1977
Grace Jones releases her album
‘Portfolio’.
1982
Culture Club release their debut
album and the single ‘Do You Really Want to Hurt Me’ becomes an
instant classic.
1984
Michael Alig takes the Club Kids
movement in the mainstream, and
creates icons like James St. James,
Amana Lepore and Sophia Lemaire.
1992
Tilda Swinton stars as the immortal
man Orlando, in the movie with
the same name.
1992
Jean Paul Gaultier discovers Eve
Salvail, the first supermodel with
shaved head.
2001
People Magazine includes the
model Omahyra Mota in its ‘most
beautiful people’ chart.
1994
Calvin Klein releases his first
unisex eau de toilette - CK One.
2003
Jean Paul Gaultier releases the first
makeup line for men.
1994
On 15 November, Mark Simpson
first uses the word ‘metrosexuality’
in an article for Independent.
2009
MAC cosmetics unify makeup with
their slogan ‘All ages, all races, all
sexes.
1998
Dana International wins the
Eurovision song contest.
1969
Yves Saint Laurent presents the
female tuxedo.
2010
James Franco appears in drag for
the cover of Candy Magazine, the
first fashion magazine
for transvestites and
transsexual people.
2010
Lea T. is featured in Givenchy
campaign and appears naked in
Vogue Paris.
photography and styling philipp jelenska
models joerg and jochen at wienermodels
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How did all start?
First, I was doing clothes and bags,
and then the leather bracelets.
In 2005, I went for the first time in
Barcelona, for the Bread&Butter
fair, and I was quite amazed and
inspired by the Freitag bags. Those
bags are made from recycled truck
tarpaulins. The whole recycleJulian describes himself as ‘self- culture impressed me a lot, and it
teached idiot-virtuoso’ and is eventually came to Zona Urbana.
doing wonders with recycled The first bags were from old
materials for some time now. billboards.
Julian is the name behind the
successful project Zona Urbana.
Apart from that, he owns the
Kervan Hostel, and is promoting,
lately, the very comprehensive
Sofia Cartoon Map – a must-have,
must-know map of Sofia, that
every foreigner should have.
We met in an extremely rainy day, Are all the materials recycled?
to ask him to tell us his story. Well, the zippers and the buttons
were new, but apart from that –
yes. The handles were made from
old seatbelts, everything else was
vinyl. At first I was dissapointed,
because the bags were selling
pretty bad, no one talked about
recycling in Bulgaria yet. After that,
in 2006 we released the first dolls.
Are they recycled too?
Yes, all of them are former sofas,
or chair, or just scrap from
furniture factories.
Which one was the first?
Lyubcho, the dog. Then came the
bear – Mundi, and after that, the
pig Krassi.
Each of them has its own
story. Are they inspired by real
characters?
Yes, the pig Krassi is named after a
friend of mine, full-blown freak.
/laughs/ It has a hole on its butt,
and its tail is a headphone jack,
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which you can plug in the hole.
Which is the bestseller?
Lyulin-5, the anteater, and his
girlfriend Mata Kosmata.
I see that every doll has its
own profile. Let’s see what
Lylin-5’s says: ‘He doesn’t wear
underpants, drinks and smokes
a lot. Never invite him over,
because he steals. He doesn’t
have a driver’s license, but he
drives a VW Golf 3. He loves
pumpkin seeds, foosball, betting
and fighting, and he hates ear
swabs.’ /laughs/
Yes, and he has this snap buttons,
on his hands and body, he can
touch himself, he can smoke...he
can perform an autofelatio.
/laughs/ And grab his girlfriend by
the nipples.
When did you continue with the
accessories?
We released wallets made from
cement and flour bags in 2007.
They sold nicely.
Did the ecological movement
influenced the clients?
Oh yes, definitely. But it was also
smaller products, on a lower
price...
And everything is unique, except
the dolls.
That’s not true, the dolls have
the same cut, but each and every
one of them is unique, we use
different materials every time.
Same with the accessories. We use
antique newspapers, magazines,
which most of the time are one
pieces, and even if they’re not, we
cut them differently. We also use
milk and coffee packaging, inner
automobile tires...
I see that most of your bags are
made from newspapers.
Yes, old socialist newspapers.
They’re quite the hit. We also use
musical score sheets, tailoring
patterns, hundred-years-old
homeworks, and the next year
we’re releasing a line made of
comics from the beginning of the
last century.
How do you strengthen the
paper?
We laminate it and press it.
The foreigners probably don’t
recognize newspapers like
‘Rabotnichesko delo’ or ‘Duma’?
Oh, they are our best customers!
They find those bags very
interesting, and they even ask me
to translate what’s written in the
paper.
Most of your accessories are
unisex, but there are also strictly
women’s stuff, like this score
sheet clutch.
Yes, it can be worn by three
different ways, it sells very, very
good. It’s the bestseller bag.
You can find the whole
collection of Zona Urbana on
24 Angel Kanchev street, or
www.zurbana.com
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When was the last time you saw
a decent movie about ballet
dancers?
Yes, we couldn’t remember either.
Miss Foxman is not your
typical New Yorker.
other planets with the hugely
successful Hercules & Love Affair
and has finally decided to preview
The 33 year old is the reason
her own single, with a little help
why we can’t get fed up with the
of her friends.
extremely addictive alternative
Produced and written with
disco of Hercules & Love Affair.
Andy Butler, ‘Creature’ is a
But her voice is not her only asset. promising first single, which
delivers a naughty acid beat with
Before she struck up with Hercules’ recurring vocals.
Andy Butler, Foxman was a regular In her own words, Foxman grew
fixture on the deejay scene,
up on the sounds of English
playing house, disco and techno.
ex-pats the Wicked Crew,
Acts like her and The Rapture
Los Angeles legend Doc Marten
defined the scene in the recent
and the many Chicago house
years and made it cool again.
deejays that came through
San Francisco during the period.
Enough of that.
Foxman and Butler has already
said that they don’t want anything
Kim lives in Brooklyn, designs
that sound pre-'85 or post-'94 and
jewelry, is proud to be a lesbian,
‘Creature’ is a good indication. The
doesn’t admit to be a dyke style
only problem is that some will
icon, has toured the world and
comment that the single is more
of the same Hercules stuff but
that’s negligible.
The revival of old-school house
might not be the newest discovery
in pop music, but Kim Ann Foxman
might just be its most talented and
forward-looking messenger.
Creature EP is out now.
Check out the video at
www.vimeo.com/16438164
Kim Ann Foxman is at
www.myspace.com/​
kimannfoxman
‘Black Swan’ is Darren Aronofsky’s
/Requiem for a Dream/ latest
drama, which follows the story
of Nina /Natalie Portman/, a
ballerina in a New York City ballet
company whose life is completely
consumed with dance. When
artistic director Thomas Leroy
/Vincent Cassel/ decides to
replace the prima ballerina Beth
Macintyre /Winona Ryder/ for
the opening production of Swan
Lake, Nina is his first choice. Swan
Lake requires a dancer who can
play both the White Swan with
innocence and grace, and the
Black Swan, who represents guile
and sensuality. There’s a fierce
competition in the face of new
dancer Lily /Mila Kunis/ along with
some terrific costumes, created
by Rodarte. ‘Black Swan’ is a story
about two young dancers’ rivalry
and twisted friendship.
‘Black Swan’ is out now.
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It’s long time since we have heard
something from Vanessa Paradis.
That French little lady is the
epitomy of Parisian cool.
So it’s no surprise she has been
serving as a long time muse of
Karl Lagerfeld.
During the summer of 2010,
Vanessa Paradis gave a series of
twenty acoustic shows in France.
Repertoire classics like Joe le taxi,
Divine Idylle and Be My Baby were
reinterpreted with eight acoustic
musicians and a string quartet.
Fortunately, it was all carefully
recorded and turned into a live
album and a movie of the
full-length concert at the Royal
Opera of the Palace of Versailles.
The Deluxe collector edition
comes in limited and numbered
copies featuring the portfolio Une
nuit à Versailles – 56 pages with
some exclusive photos of Vanessa
Paradis by Karl Lagerfeld.
In 1935, DC Comics founder
Major Malcolm WheelerNicholson published
New Fun No.1, the first comic
book with all-new, original
material.
75 years later it has become one of
the most successful industries in
the entertainment world.
What began as a cut out from
newspapers is now a multimillion
dollar business, which is far from
regarded as a kid's play. It's part of
the mythology of modern times –
the twentieth century answer to
Greek gods and super humans.
75 years later comes the the most
thorough and comprehensive
anthology book on DC Comics –
an XXL edition, measuring close
to 15 pounds and spread over 700
pages. It's really big - more than
2,000 images, covers and interiors,
original illustrations, photographs,
film stills, all reproduced using the
latest technology.
Even if you are new to DC Comics,
you won't have trouble navigating
to the enormous different
characters and story lines.
Year-by-year timelines and
biographies of the DC legends
make ‘75 Years of DC Comics’ the
holy bible of any comic book fan.
And if you are not one, you will be
converted, that's for sure.
Une nuit à Versailles is out now
and can be bought at
www.amazon.fr
'75 Years of DC Comics' is out now
at the best bookstores
and online at www.taschen.com
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ann demeulemeester www.anndemeulemeester.be
comme des garcons www.comme-des-garcons.com
haider ackermann www.haiderackermann.be
jean paul gaultier www.jeanpaulgaultier.com
maison martin margiela www.maisonmartinmargiela.com
rick owens www.rickowens.eu
are available at all u re, 9 saborna street.
3.1 phillip lim www.31philliplim.com
gaetano navarra www.gaetanonavarra.com
lost&found www.lostandfounddesign.net
marios schwab www.mariosschwab.com
are available at farenah concept, 1a saborna street, www.farenah.com
boss orange www.hugoboss.com
hugo boss www.hugoboss.com
kenzo www.kenzo.com
van laack www.vanlaack.de
are available at vayk, 16 graf ignatiev street
caran d'ache www.carandache.ch
filofax www.filofax.com
van cleef & arpels www.vancleef-arpels.com
are available at kult, tzum floor 1
patrizia pepe www.patriziapepe.com
daniele alessandrini www.alessandrini.it
are available at volume one, tzum floor 2, and serdika center ground floor
john rocha www.johnrocha.ie
yigal azrouel www.yigal-azrouel.com
are available at love/labels, tzum floor 2
chloe www.chloe.com
yves saint laurent www.ysl.com
are available at garde robe, 4 saborna street
max mara www.maxmara.com
sportmax www.sportmax.it
are available at max mara boutique, 74 vitosha boulevard
agent provocateur is at www.agentprovocateur.com
casadei is at 147 rakovski street and www.casadei.com
christian louboutin is at www.christianlouboutin.com
comme des garcons shirt is available at /+/sklada, 11 benkovski street and www.doverstreetmarket.com
dsquared2 is at www.dsquared2.com
gio diev is at 84 vitosha boulevard and www.giodiev.com
john galliano is available ат r.e.d.s , 53 patriarh evtimiy boulevard and at www.johngalliano.com
karen millen is at serdika center, ground floor and www.karenmillen.com
la perla is at 10 tzar kaloyan street and www.laperla.com
marc by marc jacobs is available at salon shoes, 145 rakovski str. www.marcjacobs.com
m-a-c is at the mall, ground floor and serdika center, ground floor, and www.maccosmetics.com
nine west is at www.ninewest.com
sisley is at serdika center, ground floor and www.sisley.com
stefanel is at city center sofia, ground floor and www.stefanel.com
topman is at www.topman.com
topshop is at www.topshop.com
valentino is at 4 saborna street and www.valentino.com
zara is at www.zara.com
GIA MAGAZINE WILL BE BACK SOON.
THE DILLEMA ISSUE IS OUT
ON THE FIFTH OF JANUARY.