A Travel Guide

A
Travel Guide
The Best Coastal Vacation Spots in the West 2010
Sunset Travel Guide
Plan the coastal
vacation of your
dreams
3 | The ultimate seaside sleeps: Get
lullabied by the waves at these
dreamy seaside retreats
10 | Sand, sun, waves, and you: Your
guide to the West’s most spectacular
secret beaches. Just don’t tell anyone
you heard it here
12 | Insider’s Maui: An offbeat weak
of snorkeling, shopping, and stunning
drives
14 | Surfing U.S.A.: Huntington Beach
is full of classic SoCal beach-town
charm
16 | Explore the San Juan Islands:
Four days of happiness with the
artists and the whales
19 | Top seafood: The best fresh
catch served just a hop from the
ocean’s waves
12
2 Sunset Travel Guide
14
23 | Travel resources
cover: thomas j. story. clockwise from top: thomas j. story, andrea m. gomez (2)
3
21 | Wine discovery: The coast’s
newest wine region is in the last place
you’d think
Sunset Travel Guide
Avila Beach’s historic
pier below Walking
paths wind to the beach
at Asilomar
Get lullabied by the waves at these dreamy seaside retreats
The Andiron, Little River, CA
The Andiron’s 1950s cabins are something
out of the ordinary along the sleepy, rural
stretch south of Mendocino. They don’t look
it from the road, but peek inside and you’ll
see that the inn’s new owners have redecorated each of the 11 redwood-paneled rooms
with quirky rummage-sale finds. (Our favorite: No. 5, done up in “library chic” and nicknamed Read.) Half the rooms have
kitchenettes and wood-burning stoves; all
3 Sunset Travel Guide
Asilomar, Pacific Grove, CA
Find yourself smack in the middle of some of
California’s most pristine coast at this Julia
Morgan–designed retreat on swanky
Monterey Bay. Accommodations are basic
but surrounded by the luxuries of nature—
tidepools, coastal wildflowers, and a sandy
beach. An extra $10 gets you a cozy fireplace
room. From $120; visitasilomar.com
Avila Lighthouse Suites, Avila Beach,
CA
Remember those beach vacations you took
with your parents back in the day? Sandy
motel floors, over-chlorinated pools, and too
much junk food? Tiny Avila Beach, smack at
chris leschinsky, asilomar conference grounds
The ultimate
seaside sleeps
have decks looking down the grassy hill to a
fringe of cypress trees and the ocean beyond.
From $89; theandiron.com
Sunset Travel Guide
composer John Philip Sousa. But it’s not only
the inn’s pedigree that makes it special—it’s
the details: sherry and fresh flowers in each
of its traditionally styled rooms. The lowerpriced rooms are a bit small, but you can
stretch out in the inn’s gardens and deck if
you need a little extra space. From $239; innlajolla.com
Cass House below Avila
Lighthouse Suites left The
Andiron
the midway point of California’s Central
Coast, is that throwback beach town,
upgraded for your new, adult standards. Yes,
kids love the pool, the giant chess game,
even the putt-putt golf green, but lush landscaping, a location to die for (the motel is
maybe 10 steps from the beach), and 54 large
guest suites with low-key nautical decor and
mini kitchens make the grown-ups giddy too.
From $309; avilalighthousesuites.com
The Bayside Hotel, Santa Monica, CA
An affordable room in Santa Monica is nothing to take for granted—which gives the
Bayside Hotel secret-weapon status in our
book. We’re still getting over the shock of
4 Sunset Travel Guide
staying a stone’s throw from the beach and
paying a third of what we’d pay across the
street. The Bayside is more motel than hotel,
but, hey—sticks and stones ... The 45 newly
refurbed rooms are fresh-looking, with allwhite linens and beachy surf posters, and
there’s a palm-dotted garden for lounging
out back. Ocean-view rooms get noise from
the street, so quiet-seekers will be happier
with a courtyard or garden-view room. From
$159; baysidehotel.com
The Bed and Breakfast Inn at La Jolla,
La Jolla, CA
Strike up the band. Located a block and a half
from the beach, this is the onetime home of
Cama Beach State Park Resort,
Camano Island, WA
Washington State Parks resuscitated this
beloved cluster of ’30s-era cabins set
between forest and sea last year, and ever
since, it’s been a go-to destination for anyone
seeking a taste of the simple life. Walk the
beach or tootle around Saratoga Passage in a
vintage rowboat. After dark, toast marshmallows around a beach bonfire with other
adventurers lucky enough to have scored one
of the 33 cabins. Finally, hunker down under
the covers while Puget Sound sings you to
sleep. Two-bedroom bungalows from $119; standard cabins from $60. Two-night weekend minimum; parks.wa.gov/camabeach
Cass House Inn & Restaurant,
Cayucos, CA
The small surf town of Cayucos has remained
miraculously immune to over-development
for decades, despite its great wines to the
east and white sandy beaches to the west. At
this charming inn, the elaborate breakfast
(included!) is nearly as good as the seasonally inspired dinner (if it’s on the evening
menu, the oxtail soup is a must). But the best
part about the 1800s Cass House? That
Clockwise from top: drew kelly, avila lighthouse suites, the andiron
Black Rock Oceanfront Resort,
Ucluelet, Vancouver Island, B.C.
The luxurious Black Rock Oceanfront Resort
is a curving sweep of glass, steel, and wood
beside the rain forest and above a surge
channel that boasts the best storm-watching
in the West. It’s set by the Wild Pacific Trail
(wildpacifictrail.com), which skirts rocky cliffs
and meanders through dense old-growth
rain forest to reveal dramatic vistas of the
moody, tossing surf. Each room comes
decked out with a fireplace, balcony, and flatscreen TV—not that you’ll need it. What’s
really worth watching here is the view out
the floor-to-ceiling windows. Feeling restless? Switch it up by taking in the view from
one of the spa’s outdoor hot pools. Stormwatching season starts mid-November. From
$164 U.S.; blackrockresort.com
Sunset Travel Guide
is set in a bamboo grove a couple of blocks
from the beach, with private outdoor spas,
sculptural firepits, and heated floors. From
$175; coastcabins.com
Coast Guard House Historic Inn, Point
Arena, CA
Atop a bluff and offering nose-bleed views of
the major highway for gray whales––aka the
Pacific Ocean––is this Cape Cod–style
seaside estate from 1901, with slatted ceilings, vintage photographs, and piles of firewood near the basement. It’s hard to shake
the Agatha Christie vibe at the windswept
inn, what with the grandfather clock
ominously stopped at 4:20, a house dog
named Winston, and a Friday-night wine and
cheese party where you meet the other
suspects, ahem, guests. Two cottages and
four rooms are shipshape cozy. From $165,
breakfast included; two-night weekend minimum; coastguardhouse.com
would be twin sisters Grace Lorenzen (the
innkeeper) and Carla Wingett (groundskeeper), who manage the organic garden and
the five impeccably turned-out guestroom.
From $165; casshouseinn.com
China Beach Retreat, Ilwaco, WA
Big views of Baker Bay’s serene tide-lands
tempt guests to hunker down at the Craftsman China Beach Retreat. But don’t get too
comfortable: The bay is perfect for kayaking,
and headland hikes and wild beaches are
minutes away in Cape Disappointment State
Park. For maximum privacy, check out China
Beach’s stand-alone Audubon Cottage. From
$199, including breakfast; chinabeachretreat.com
Costanoa, Half Moon Bay, CA
An hour south of San Francisco, a gathering
of cheery white tent bungalows dot the rolling bluffs like so many covered wagons cross5 Sunset Travel Guide
ing the tallgrass prairie. The mood here’s
breezy and wholesome—kids riding bikes,
communal cook-it-yourself barbecues, and
ocean-watching from Adirondack chairs
perched on the bluff. Inside, simplicity reigns,
with cute plaid comforters and comfy metal
camp beds. A bonus for garden lovers: The
resort’s idea-filled landscaping features
whimsical driftwood sculptures and native
plants. From $139; costanoa.com
Coast Cabins, Manzanita, OR
If Goldilocks were a beach girl, Manzanita
would be the town on Oregon’s northern
coast she’d find “just right.” Not too swanky,
not too tacky. A bakery, wine bar, organic
clothing store, and spa are all worthy indulgences, but you’ve got to see the beach first:
seven wide-open miles of sand, big boomy
waves, and poetry-worthy sunsets. A group
of “cabins” in name only, this Zen-like retreat
El Colibri Boutique Hotel, Cambria, CA
Almost but not quite within sight of the
Pacific, the new El Colibri Boutique Hotel is
hidden by the trees along Santa Rosa Creek.
That said, a 1/4-mile boardwalk path leads
you to Moonstone Beach, the kind of beach
that makes even seasoned coastal wanderers
stop and whisper, Wow. As for the hotel, it
breaks out of the town’s famous cutesiness
for something that’s a more Tuscany-meetsSoCal flavor of luxury. Check out the small
but pretty top-floor spa for a massage. From
$189, including breakfast; elcolibrihotel.com
Hotel Encanto, Acapulco, Mexico
Sleek new architectural stunner Hotel
Encanto is becoming known for its sexy
Ebbe Roe Yovino-Smith
Black Rock
Oceanfront
Resort
The Cottages at Cape Kiwanda, Pacific
City, OR
Pacific City doesn’t do coastal kitsch. It
doesn’t do fudge shops or malls or traffic to
the beach. The Oregon town of 1,000 lucky
souls is a quiet, kick-back kind of place.
Those who don’t live here will dig the
Cottages at Cape Kiwanda. With gourmet
kitchens, heated slate bathroom floors, and
private decks, they’re a civilized launching
pad for days spent peering into tidepools at
Cape Kiwanda marine gardens or combing
McPhillips beach—the locals’ secret strand
just over the famously steep sand dune. Two
and three bedrooms from $299; kiwanda
cottages.com
Sunset Travel Guide
tubs in California. (Fair warning: Weekend
parties by the pool last past some people’s
bedtime.) From $295; shangrila-hotel.com
Hotel La Casa del Camino
above Hotel Shangri-La
left Scenic shoreline near
Kalaloch Lodge
Inn on the Beach, Ventura, CA
Straightforward name, straightforward
premise—three floors and 24 neat, simple
Victorian-style rooms with fireplaces, parked
smack-dab on the sand, facing Santa Cruz
and Anacapa Islands. A favored getaway for
locals—who know that third-floor rooms
with patios and views can be had for right
around $100 midweek. Ask about the dunes
if you’re booking a first-floor room; built-up
sand can block some views but does offer
extra privacy. From $99.95; innonthebeach
ventura.com
nighttime lounge scene. But, really, it’s at its
best when sunlight streaks across chalk
white walls. Lounge poolside beneath a saillike awning to take in the view from the
hotel’s covetable blufftop perch, well above
the city’s more chaotic quarters. From $375
U.S.; hotelencanto.com.mx
Hotel La Casa del Camino, Laguna
Beach, CA
You don’t have to be a surfer dude to enjoy
the splashy surf suites at the Hotel La Casa
del Camino. They’re done up with wall-size
underwater-photo murals, surfboards on the
walls, pillows made of boardshorts material,
6 Sunset Travel Guide
and, in some cases, views of the crashing
waves from the window. Pop up to the rooftop bar (the only one in town) for drinks and
insanely gorgeous sunsets. From $229; lacasa
delcamino.com
Hotel Shangri-La, Santa Monica, CA
The recently renovated Hotel Shangri-La,
across the street from the sands, oozes oldschool details. Even the building has curves!
Grab an era-appropriate drink from the poolside bar or from the rooftop bar, which looks
out to the Pacific Ocean. But truth is, the
view from the in-room soaking tub is just as
blue, blue, blue—these are some of the best
La Jolla Shores Hotel, La Jolla, CA
Anyone ready to try stand-up paddleboarding can get a thorough intro at Surf Diva’s
three-day SUP & Yoga Getaway, launching
next month. Both sports are all about core
strength, balance, and flexibility, making
them a natural pairing. In between two
paddleboarding lessons and one “surfer
yoga” class per day, guests rest their rubbery
limbs at the beachfront—and recently
updated—La Jolla Shores Hotel. Packages
from $977; Oct 1–3; surfdiva.com
Lakedale Resort, San Juan Island, WA
A quick, calming country drive from the
bustle of San Juan Island’s ferry landing,
Lakedale Resort sits on 82 forested acres
with 3 freshwater lakes. It’s always had
campsites, cabins, and a lodge, and now it’s
added a cluster of 13 canvas tents decked out
with pillow-top bedding, lanterns, even bath
products to cart to the bathhouse. Canvas
tents from $149; lakedale.com
Clockwise from top: andrea m. gomez, hotel shangri-la, aramark parks and destinations
Kalaloch Lodge, Olympic National
Park, WA
Picture a cluster of weathered gray cabins
perched on a grassy bluff above a wind- and
rain-swept beach, and you’ve got the drift of
Kalaloch Lodge. A step above basic, the
cabins have knotty-pine paneling, wood
stoves, compact kitchens, and, most important, big picture windows opening onto
views of the Pacific. Steps lead down to the
beach, strewn with huge piles of driftwood
and massive tree trunks. Nab a window table
in the lodge dining room for the excellent
cedar-plank wild king salmon. From $150; visit
kalaloch.com
Sunset Travel Guide
thread-count sheets; flat-screen TVs). You’re
200 yards from the beach, two steps to town,
and—best of all—miles from the masses.
From $189; paiainn.com
Petit Hotel Hafa, Sayulita, Mexico
Quaint and compact Sayulita is Mexico’s
chill-out destination du jour, but in September, when the weather’s hot and kids are
back in school, things slow down considerably. Savor the tranquilo vibe on the stylish
rooftop lounge at Petit Hotel Hafa, a tiny
boutique hotel two blocks from the beach,
where the Moroccan-inspired decor in the
middle of the Mexican tropics draws both
design enthusiasts and hideaway seekers.
Owners Christophe and Marina Mignot know
everyone in town and are happy to share all
off-season secrets, so a stay here feels like
the real local’s-eye-view. From $53 U.S.; twonight minimum; hotelhafasayulita.com
Ocean Park Motel, San Francisco, CA
Deal San Francisco’s hotels cluster downtown. But there’s something to be said for a
stay on the city’s saltier, breezier, and lessknown Pacific Ocean edge. Out here, a room
at the Ocean Park Motel gets you in with the
wetsuit-wearing, wave-riding crowd at
Ocean Beach, famously foggy in summer but
warm and sunny come September. The 1930s
streamline moderne motel has a pretty
courtyard and (in many rooms) cute kitchens—all at a reasonable price, especially for
the city. And it takes dogs (from $10/night),
which is handy because Ocean Beach is dog
heaven. From $135; oceanparkmotel.com
Pacific Edge Hotel, Laguna Beach, CA
The shag carpets are long gone in what was
once the eight-building Vacation Village. Now
it’s the Pacific Edge Hotel, with a snazzed-up
new look on what has to be the prettiest
7 Sunset Travel Guide
stretch of beach in Laguna. You’ll get bright
chartreuse walls, surf posters, and a pillow
menu in all the rooms, but it’s worth the
splurge on a Surf Wing suite for the best ocean
views and patios right above the waves. Down
on the sand, a beach sherpa brings out chairs
and umbrellas. We also love the choice of two
pools, and, well, we at least considered finally
taking a surfing lesson. We’ll definitely be
camped out here every summer to come. From
$169; pacificedgehotel.com
Paia Inn Hotel, Paia, HI
Paia, Maui’s North Shore surfer outpost, is
the refreshing antithesis of the sprawling
resorts on the island’s south side. At the
center of “downtown” Paia, this recently
renovated five-room inn manages to be both
casual-beachy (hand-scrawled notes in your
room from the staff; body boards you’re
welcome to borrow) and big-city chic (high-
Puakea Ranch, Big Island, HI
Think of it as the anti-resort. Not that Puakea
Ranch’s four private bungalows on a rural,
grassy slope at the Big Island’s northern tip
are short on luxury: You’ll nap in four-poster
beds dressed with Italian linens, cool off in
your own dipping pool, and enjoy views of the
Pacific from your tree-shaded front porch. But
the low-key property, once a sugar mill and a
cattle ranch, is also refreshingly rustic. Collect
eggs for an omelet from the chicken coop, and
ride one of the ranch’s horses to the top of the
grassy hill for a view of the famed Kohala
Coast—a short drive away when you’re ready
thomas j. story
Point-No-Point
Resort
Point-No-Point Resort, Vancouver
Island, B.C.
Victoria may be only an hour away, but the 25
cabins at Point-No-Point Resort might as
well be at the end of the Earth—a rugged,
woodsy, ocean cliff stretch of it at that.
Cedar-cute and woodstove-cozy, many of the
one- and two-room cabins were built in the
’50s but ace the test of time. All have picture
windows framing the Pacific, wooden decks
with bright red Adirondacks, and pebbly
paths that lead to the intimate, windowwalled Tearoom restaurant ($$$)—and the
private beach below. Tired of that one? Just
hit the winding road to a host of others along
this southwest corner of Vancouver Island—
French Beach, China Beach, Botanical
Beach—each an easy hike and all-but-abandoned. From $168 U.S.; two-night minimum;
pointnopointresort.com
Sunset Travel Guide
The Sheraton Waikiki
grants you easy access
to killer waves
St. Regis Princeville Resort, Kauai, HI
You might suspect the St. Regis Princeville
Resort of stocking its corner of Hanalei Bay
with sea turtles, rays, and Technicolor
coral—the snorkeling is that good. But with
big mountain-to-bay views from the private
beach, you’ll hardly miss out if you don’t
snorkel. Even better: Since the always luxurious but once oddly European resort got a
jillion-dollar redo last fall, it now has the
contemporary Hawaiian look its spectacular
perch deserves. Best thing about the rooms?
It’s a toss-up between the shower with a
view of the green Na Pali Coast (the glass
magically turns opaque with a click of a
button) and the butler service—they’ll
unpack your bags, print your boarding pass,
and get you into chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s on-site Kaua‘i Grill ($$$$). From $460
(sometimes less—search the resort’s website);
stregisprinceville.com
Sylvia Beach Hotel, Newport, OR
It’s known as a hotel for book lovers. And for
lovers. And others just seeking a little eccentricity-by-the-sea. Each room at this hotel on
the bluff at Nye Beach, a neighborhood of
shingled beach shacks, is decorated in the
spirit and style of a noted author, from Colette
to Dr. Seuss. From $70; sylviabeachhotel.com
Rockwater Secret Cove Resort, near
Halfmoon Bay, B.C.
This ragged stretch of the Sunshine Coast is
so unspoiled and awe-inspiring, it’s sometimes hard to imagine that anyone but a bald
eagle or two has been here before you.
Wooden walkways meander through the
forest where Rockwater Secret Cove Resort’s13
roomy, light-filled, adults-only canvas tent
suites—with fluffy king-size duvets and tubs
for two—perch above the blue water. Each
suite has a deck and views to inspire castaway
fantasies. At Rockwater’s Spa Without Walls,
treatments are on a platform at the water’s
edge with stunning views. Horseback riding,
bocce ball, croquet, and beach volleyball, will
8 Sunset Travel Guide
tempt you to stay on the property, but make
time to explore the ocean by kayak. Horseback
rides $49 U.S. for 1 hour; sea kayaking from $38 U.S.
for half-day. From $162 U.S.; rockwatersecret
coveresort.com
Sheraton Waikiki, Honolulu, HI
Maybe you think you’re not a Waikiki person.
Maybe you think you prefer something a bit
more secluded and exclusive. But with warm
water, dependably gentle waves, and novicenurturing surf schools, Waikiki Beach remains
the most forgiving place in the world to learn
to surf or steer an outrigger canoe. The
Sheraton Waikiki stands midway along the
2-mile-long beach, and while its high-rise
architecture shouts 1970s, a $187 million
renovation has given it 21st-century polish.
And those Waikiki waves are timelessly
perfect. From $225; sheraton-waikiki.com
Treebones Resort, Big Sur, CA
These gorgeous wood-floored yurts offer the
kind of views that fetch major bucks elsewhere
on this stretch of coast. Sure, there are only
communal bathrooms and showers—but
there are also barbecue dinners and complimentary morning waffles. And with a swimming pool and hiking trails that launch right
thomas j. story
to hit the beach (we like Kauna‘oa). From $200,
plus $100 cleaning fee per stay; two-night minimum; puakearanch.com
Timber Cove Inn, Sonoma Coast, CA
A narrow ribbon of road clings, against all
odds, to a grassy slope that plummets into
the Pacific along this overlooked coastline
with views to infinity. It always had the
million-dollar spot on a solitary rocky point
above the waves, and its rugged lodge look
and soaring lounge haven’t changed. But
with new ownership and a cash infusion,
Timber Cove has shed its swinging ’70s decor
and gone for a more streamlined, romantic
look. Private decks are perfect for whalewatching and sharing a Sonoma Coast Pinot.
From $209; timbercoveinn.com
Sunset Travel Guide
Seclucion at Two Harbors
below Paukea Ranch
left St. Regis Princeville
stroll across the isthmus and look out over
the Pacific: next stop, Hawaii, 2,500 miles
away. For all the isolation, you don’t have to
rough it here. In addition to boat-in and
walk-in campgrounds, Two Harbors has the
Banning House Lodge in the vacation home
of Catalina’s onetime owners. All 12 rooms
have views of the harbor. From $128; visit
catalinaisland.com/twoharbors
Villa Amor, Sayulita, Mexico
The feel of sea air on your face and a view of
early-morning fishermen setting their lines
ease you into the day at the Villa Amor, on the
windswept Nayarit coast. A collection of
oceanfront cottages built into a steep hillside,
the villa epitomizes warmth, authenticity, and
artfulness. Thatched roofs, curvy adobe walls,
and—in some villas—plunge pools perched
right over the hill will make you wish you could
pack up the mood of this place and take it
home. From $55; villaamor.com
into the heart of Big Sur, this is sleepover camp
as it should have been. Space books quickly
here, especially yurts 15 and 16, which are the
most private. From $155; treebonesresort.com
Tu Tu’ Tun, Gold Beach, OR
It’s always a gamble when a classic lodge
changes hands. But in the case of Southern
Oregon’s luxe, romantic hideaway Tu Tu’ Tun,
new ownership means new energy and
tweaks that even longtime regulars will
embrace. Wake up to ponder the hugeness of
the Rogue River from your room’s wall of
windows. That knock on the door? It’s just
the morning’s coffee and juice delivery. Some
9 Sunset Travel Guide
spend the day picking apples in the orchard;
others hike the Douglas fir–thick coastline a
short drive away, then get a massage in a
riverside tent. Or there’s always catching up
on your novel out on the gigantic lawn. At
6:15 sharp—listen for the bell—stroll into
the lounge for lavish hors d’oeuvres. From
$235; two-night minimum; tututun.com
Two Harbors, Catalina Island, CA
On the far side of Catalina, away from the
main town of Avalon, is Two Harbors, a tiny
boaters’ haven that feels like an island on the
island. You can snorkel through swaying kelp
beds and kayak to hidden coves. Steep trails
lead into the Catalina backcountry. Or just
Westport Hotel, Westport, CA
Along a stretch of coastline too far north of
San Francisco and too far south of Redwood
National Park to get much traffic, the sixroom Westport Hotel is a civilized outpost on
a bracing cliff. There’s blissfully little to do
here but walk nearby Blues Beach or sit on
the wide porch and watch the churning sea.
Yes, State 1 passes directly in front of the
hotel, but in this town of 300, it’s merely a
quiet country road. The rooms are peaceful
and uncluttered. Don’t miss the hotel’s
fantastic Old Abalone Pub ($$)—the place to
be on weekend nights. From $140, including
breakfast; westporthotel.us
Clockwise from top: andrea m. gomez, thomas j. story, st. regis princeville resort
The Venice Beach Eco Cottages,
Venice, CA
The Venice Beach Eco Cottages have a sweet
spot on a leafy street between Venice’s
famous beach and the shops and restaurants
along Abbot Kinney Boulevard. We felt right
at home basking in front of the Victorian fireplace, sipping coffee at the sunlit breakfast
banquette, and soaking in the red claw-foot
tub. From $215; three-night minimum; venicebeachecocottages.com
Sunset Travel Guide
Sand, sun,
waves, and you
Your guide to the West’s most spectacular secret beaches.
Just don’t tell anyone you heard it here
FACT: The number of bodies on a given patch
of sand is directly proportional to the proximity and size of the closest parking lot. That
means that if you don’t mind scrambling for
parking or hiking a bit, you just might find
yourself alone on a beautiful empty beach.
Hamoa Beach, Hana, Maui
Hala trees and swaying palms fringe a halfmoon of salt-and-pepper sand, backed by
black lava cliffs. In summer, the crashing
10 Sunset Travel Guide
waves calm down to make the water
welcoming for beginning bodysurfers. The
three-hour drive from the touristed southern
shore keeps crowds at bay. About a mile past
“downtown” Hana on the S. Hana Hwy., turn
left onto Haneo‘o Rd.
Indian Beach, OR
At the end of a twisty road that winds
through dense Sitka spruce forests in Ecola
State Park, Indian Beach looks open and
welcoming. The smooth, sandy, horseshoeshaped beach is tucked into a cove and sheltered from wind, making it a perfect place for
surfing or just staring at sea stacks. At the
end of the paved road in Ecola State Park. $3 per
vehicle; oregonstateparks.org
portmanteaus on flickr creative commons, nordique on flickr creative commons
Bowling Ball Beach
below Hamoa Beach
Sunset Travel Guide
Point Buchon
nowhere. Its westward orientation delivers
some of the best sunsets on the Big Island,
and its out-of-sight location 11/2 miles off the
main highway keeps away the tourists. Look
for a sign reading Kekaha Kai State Park about
21/2 miles north of Kona International Airport, off
State 19, marking the entrance to the unpaved
beach access road. Closed Wed;
hawaiistateparks.org
Bean Hollow State Beach, San Mateo
County, CA
Hidden off State 1 along the San Mateo
County coast, Bean Hollow is famous for
sandy beaches and tidepools with orangelavender seastars and purple shore crabs. It’s
also a favorite spot for beachgoers—after big
storms, it has been known to turn up glass
floats that come all the way from Japan. For
more discoveries, follow the self-guided
nature trail. 171/2 miles south of Half Moon Bay
and 21/4 miles south of Pescadero on State 1.
parks.ca.gov or 650/879-2170.
Robert E. Badham Marine
Conservation Area, Orange County, CA
Better known as Little Corona, the petite, shy
sister of hefty, popular Corona del Mar State
Beach can be accessed only by those willing
to look for street parking and then hike down
(and back up) a lifeguard access road to a
11 Sunset Travel Guide
cove. Poppy Ave. at Ocean Blvd., Newport
Beach; 949/644-3038.
Point Buchon, San Luis Obispo County,
CA
Decades of hikers at Montaña de Oro State
Park have reached a fence at the park’s
southern end and gazed longingly at the
unspoiled California coast just beyond it.
Now a 3-mile loop trail has opened on this
Pacific Gas and Electric Company property,
with access to secluded Coon Creek Beach. In
Montaña de Oro State Park, follow Pecho Rd. to
its southern end. parks.ca.gov or 805/772-7434.
Mahai‘ula Beach, Kona Coast, Big
Island, HI
An oasis of brilliant sand set amid miles and
miles of ebony lava fields, the beach appears
to have been dropped in the middle of
Bowling Ball Beach, Mendocino, CA
Don’t let the closed trail sign deter you from
visiting the southern Mendocino Coast’s most
unusual beach. Just beyond an incredible
temporary driftwood fort built by some beachgoer and a few hundred yards to the north,
extreme low tide reveals dozens of large,
round sandstone boulders. Very few people
scramble down the ladder to the beach to
check out this unusual natural phenomenon,
and that’s just the way we like it. On State 1, 3
miles south of Point Arena, just north of the
Schooner Creek Bridge at milepost 11.3 (take the
northern trail from the turnout). parks.ca.gov or
707/937-5804.
thomas j. story
Salt Creek Recreation Area, WA
Sculpins, seastars, and oceanography
students all frequent the tidepools at Tongue
Point, but Salt Creek’s charms don’t end
there. Climb a sea stack, fly a kite on the
beach, photograph passing ships, or overnight at a blufftop campsite. From Port Angeles, take U.S. 101 west 5 miles; turn right on State
112 and go 7 miles; turn right on Camp Hayden
Rd. and go 31/2 miles to Salt Creek Recreation
Area. Campsites from $16; clallam.net or
360/928-3441.
Sandcut Beach, Sooke, B.C.
A creek spills onto the beach in a misty
waterfall, tidal pools carved in sandstone
teem with life, and the pebbles are as smooth
as eggs. Get an unexpected reflexology foot
massage as you walk on stones warmed by
the sun. 30 miles northwest of Victoria, B.C., on
Pacific Marine Route/Hwy. 14. A half-mile past
the point no point resort sign, a tiny sign points
to the 10-minute rain-forest trail that leads to
Sandcut. Sooke Visitor Information Centre,
250/642-6351.
Sunset Travel Guide
Explore Maui underwater on a snorkel
tour right Haleakala
Crater
plenty of unhurried instruction. Robinson is
great with insecure or rookie snorkelers. And
she knows absolutely everything about every
fish you’ll meet—such as the cleaner wrasse,
which serves as a personal groomer to other
fish, sort of like a piscine day spa.
Day 3: Discover small-town charm
On the North Shore, once-poky Pa‘ia is turning old storefronts into boutiques and
restaurants. At Green Banana Café, try Papa
Wong’s Famous Banana Pudding. Or hit a
hangout of pro surfer Laird Hamilton, Anthony’s Coffee Company (above, its veggie Benedict). Art shoppers will be wowed by locally
made ceramics at the Maui Crafts Guild.
An offbeat week of snorkeling, shopping, and stunning drives
Maui’s got all the essentials for the ultimate
tropical vacation. Maui maven Paul Wood
gives us the scoop on the authentic island
jewels for your week in paradise.
Day 1: Check into a low-key inn
The authentic Old Wailuku Inn at Ulupono is
in Wailuku town at the mouth of ‘Iao Valley,
on the north side. The setting is serene, the
rooms—with their high ceilings and beds
12 Sunset Travel Guide
spread with handsome Hawaiian quilts—
blissfully tropical. And Kihei beaches are
20 minutes away.
Day 2: Go to snorkel school
Instead of aimless snorkeling, get smart as
you swim. Reef expert and dive master Suzzy
Robinson works with small groups (of six or
fewer) for Maui Snorkel Tours; she picks that
day’s best shoreline site and then provides
Day 5 (a.m.): Explore the oddball crater
Ranger-led morning hikes often travel
through volcanic landscapes up to the
summit of the 10,000-foot volcano in
Haleakala National Park; on a self-guided
andrea m. gomez (2)
Insider’s Maui
Day 4: Enjoy America’s most beautiful
road, the right way
The 52-mile drive (with 54 one-lane bridges)
from Kahului to Hana is one of the world’s
great road trips: views of dense tropical
jungles, ocean, cliffs, and at the end, a
Hawaiian village lost in time. So don’t try to
rush things. Leave early, drive slow, pick up
mangos and papaya at fruit stands like the
Huelo Lookout, and get out of your car to
encounter some Hawaiian prehistory at the
stone ruins at Kahanu Garden. If you decide
to make it an overnight (a good idea), Hana
has two good splurge lodging choices: posh
Hotel Hana-Maui and the Japanese-style
Heavenly Hana Inn. For midpriced studios
and condos, try Hana Kai Maui. And there’s
one more find, an hour past Hana: Waimoku
Falls in Haleakala National Park. It’s Maui’s
most beautiful waterfall, for sure.
Sunset Travel Guide
Spending time in the
saddle below Traipsing
through bamboo on the
road to Hana left The
Feast at Lele
The details
stay Hana Kai Maui. From $185;
hanakaimaui.com
Heavenly Hana Inn. From $350; threenight minimum; 808/248-8442.
Hotel Hana-Maui. From $495; hotel
hanamaui.com
Old Wailuku Inn at Ulupono. From
$165; two-night minimum; mauiinn.com
eat Anthony’s Coffee Company. $; 90
Hana Hwy., Pa‘ia; 800/882-6509.
Feast at Lele. $110, $84 ages 2–12; reservations required; 505 Front St., Lahaina;
866/244-5353.
Green Banana Café. $; 137 Hana Hwy.,
Pa‘ia; 808/579-9130.
Honokowai Okazuya Deli. $; closed
Sun; 3600 Lower Honoapiilani Rd.,
Lahaina; 808/665-0512.
Huelo Lookout. 7600 Hana Hwy.;
808/573-1850.
don’t miss D.T. Fleming Beach Park.
Free; off State 30 just north of Kapalua.
Haleakala National Park. $10 per vehicle; entrance info at nps.gov/hale or
808/572-4400.
Kahanu Garden. Mon–Fri; Sat by
appointment; $10; mile marker 31 on Hana
Hwy.; kahanu.ntbg.org
Maui Crafts Guild. 69 Hana Hwy.; mauicraftsguild.com
Maui Snorkel Tours. $95 for half-day;
mauisnorkeltours.com
Thompson Ranch Riding Stables. $100
for 2 hours; thompsonranchmaui.com
tour through the Hosmer Grove forest, you
could spot an ‘i‘wi, a rare Hawaiian bird. Or
spend a whole day hiking the Sliding Sands
Trail through the eerily lovely crater itself,
immersed in a wilderness of volcanic cinder,
strange plants, and tumbling clouds.
Day 5 (noon): Eat crazy good lunch for
cheap
The plate lunch, which has its roots in
Hawaii’s plantation days in the 1880s, is an
economical and gut-filling choice. It includes
an entrée, like teriyaki chicken or steak,
served—usually in Styrofoam—with a scoop
of rice and a scoop of macaroni salad. Ask any
local for his or her favorite joint—everybody
13 Sunset Travel Guide
has one. One consistent star is Honokowai
Okazuya Deli in Lahaina. You can’t go wrong
with one of its lunches featuring ono or mahimahi with lemon-caper sauce.
Day 7 (a.m.): Check out the real
Hawaiian beach
The long stretch of clean sand that is D.T.
Fleming Beach Park has good snorkeling
around the rocky edges. And there are
features like lifeguards, tables, and grills,
which you won’t find at the resorts.
Day 6: Gallop like a paniolo (Hawaiian
cowboy)
When Maui locals Jerry and Toni Thompson
sold their spread to Oprah Winfrey some
years back, they simply moved higher up on
Haleakala and started anew, with Thompson
Ranch Riding Stables. Maui’s paniolo cowboy
culture is rich, and spending time in the
saddle with the Thompsons will introduce
you to it. The ride will also show you the rural
Maui most visitors never see—phenome-
Day 7 (p.m.): Eat well and be
entertained
On the beach in Lahaina, the five-course,
three-hour Feast at Lele is no standard luau.
It doles out food from all over the South
Pacific, like breadfruit with taro leaf in coconut cream from Samoa and Maori-style fish
cake with shrimp, scallops, and seasonal fish.
Music and dance—hula from Hawaii, a
Maori war dance—are paired with each
course, and are equally inspiring.
andrea m. gomez (3)
nally beautiful, with views that extend across
half the island.
Sunset Travel Guide
Your ticket to ride
right International
Surfing Museum
How to worship
the wave
Surfing U.S.A.
Huntington Beach is full of classic SoCal beach-town charm
We’d never had the occasion to flip through
the Riptionary before. In fact, we’d never
even heard of the Riptionary—a kind of
Dummies guide to surf lingo—before we
went to Huntington Beach one summer
weekend. Although we shudder in cold
Pacific water, we were intrigued by a culture
where the ocean is god.
Big bonus: the new-ish 157-room Shorebreak Hotel, which stylishly woos visiting
14 Sunset Travel Guide
surfers (and non) who want to lounge in the
courtyard by a firepit or scope out the waves
from their private balcony.
Determined not to be the Riptionary definition of an ass clown*, we first go for our own
Surfing 101. We walk out past the hotel’s surf
lockers, past beach cruisers with palm trees
painted on the rims, and up two blocks to one
of H.B.’s few remaining historic buildings
(McCondoville struck early here, and didn’t let
up)—a building that now houses the Huntington Beach International Surfing Museum.
We and a few Russians are the only ones
wandering the wee space on this sunny
Saturday. The narration from cult classic The
Endless Summer plays in the background.
B&W photographs show the sport’s heroes
through the years, and an exhibit on board
shapers displays the first efforts—9-foot
boards made from solid redwood.
With more surf knowledge, we feel ready
to head to the culture’s main altar: the
town’s famously long pier, where the most
consistent waves are ridden.
On our way down the busy main drag, we
note that the ocean is a very informal and
accepting god—its acolytes wear not much
more than expensive sunglasses and short
shorts. One, with a marijuana leaf tattooed on
his ankle, proclaims the day to be “sick.” (See
the Riptionary if you think that’s a bad thing.)
andrea m. gomez (2)
Bone up Consult the Riptionary
(riptionary.com) on basic lingo, and get
a history lesson at the Huntington
Beach International Surfing Museum
($2; 411 Olive Ave.; surfingmuseum.org or
714/960-3483).
Carbo-load It’s lobster tacos with an
ocean view at the new Sandy’s Beach
Grill. $$; 315 PCH, at the base of the pier;
714/374-7273.
Take a lesson The surf butler at
Shorebreak can arrange it. (Or something chill like a kite rental.) Surf conditions are posted near the front desk.
From $199; shorebreakhotel.com or
877/744-1117.
Sunset Travel Guide
More places to
hang 10
SoCal isn’t the only spot to catch waves.
Surfers with a thick wetsuit and spirit of
adventure are tearing it up off the
rugged coast of the Pacific Northwest.
Yakutat, AK. Glaciers, breaching
whales, and is that a bear on the
beach? Surf’s up in Yakutat, Alaska!
Rent a thick wetsuit and board at Icy
Waves (from $35/day; icywaves.com).
Tofino, B.C. Fishing nets are swapped
for surfboards in Tofino, on the west
coast of Vancouver Island. Try a weekend surf-and-yoga retreat at Surf
Sister (from $530 U.S.; surfsister.com).
Westport, WA. Longboarders love
these Olympic Peninsula beaches with
their reliable year-round waves. For
lessons and wave reports, check out
Steepwater Surf Shop (group lesson
from $60; steepwatersurfshop.com).
Seaside, OR. Oregon Surf Adventures
runs clinics at Oswald West State
Park—“Short Sands” to locals (group
lesson from $99; oregonsurfadventures.
com).
Epiphany on the sand
The ex-surfer with family ties to H.B. meets
us near lifeguard station #2. We’re sitting in
the sand, watching kids slide down mini
“dunes” on bodyboards, when he perks
up—like he hears a high-pitched noise only a
surfer is attuned to and we’re not.
He turns to us with a smile. “Surf guitar,”
he says.
“Surf guitar?” We vaguely remember
something about this from the museum. But
we don’t have our Riptionary on us. “There’s
a special guitar?”
He leads us across the well-trodden sand
to the source of the sound: a stage fronted by
people on the grass in the warm sun.
15 Sunset Travel Guide
A guy with what sure looks like a regular
old electric guitar plucks out a retro beat.
We get it then. The plucking mimics the
rhythm of the ocean. We’ve heard it before
but didn’t feel it until now, with the surfers
behind us riding the waves. As we look back
toward town across Pacific Coast Highway,
the music opens my eyes to something else:
Huntington Beach didn’t completely flush its
past during the development decades.
Between the new buildings are palm trees, a
few old cottages, and burger shacks.
Throaty-sounding classic cars cruise PCH
alongside F-150 trucks. The music makes us
see only the classics.
Including the black standard poodle who
just then strolls by, with a pink frangipani
behind her ear and an aloha shirt (and her
owner attached on a leash). The Beach Boys’
California is still alive. And it’s sick.
That evening, we have dinner at Shorebreak’s Zimzala restaurant. The Riptionary
defines a “zimzala” as a free-spirited person
who finds peace with the sand between her
toes.
We’re converts. Ocean worshippers. But,
hear us now: No short shorts or pot tattoos.
A surf lesson? In time.
*Anyone caught in a lame attempt at being hip
or funny by using a Riptionary entry without
understanding its meaning.
Andrea M. Gomez (3)
The Shorebreak’s welcoming lobby
above H.B.’s second-favorite sport
left A bike path winds for miles
along the shore
Sunset Travel Guide
Explore the San
Juan Islands
Four days of happiness with the artists and the whales
The long summer weekend was invented in
Washington’s San Juan Islands, or should
have been. Summer stretches languorously
here, with 16 hours of daylight—enough time
to savor the islands’ patented pleasures:
orcas and eagles, kayaking and hiking, and a
food scene that shows the influence of a
burgeoning slow-food movement. Orcas
Island local Bob Friel guides us on an island
hopper’s midsummer dream.
16 Sunset Travel Guide
Day 1: Orcas
Orcas is the island of superlatives. It’s the
biggest of all the San Juans’ 750 islands, with
the highest mountain, the deepest fjords, and
the most jaw-dropping views. All this inspiration draws a notably creative crowd, and
many artists call Orcas home for at least part
of the year, from potters, painters, and sculptors to Gary Larson of The Far Side fame.
Go with it. Drive off the early ferry from
Anacortes (an hour crossing) and onto Orcas
Road to begin your art- and nature-packed
tour. First stop, Crow Valley Pottery & Gallery
(2274 Orcas Rd., Eastsound; 360/376-4260),
showing 100 artists, most inspired by native
Northwest culture and wildlife. Outside Eastsound, keep an eye out for the dazzling
kinetic metal sculptures spinning and flashing in the fir trees at Howe Art Sculpture Park
& Gallery (236 Double Hill Rd.; 360/376-2945).
Andrea M. Gomez, thomas j. story
Friday Harbor on San Juan
Island below Orcas Island
bounty
Sunset Travel Guide
Eastsound is Orcas’s main village.
Depending on your mood, it can entertain
you for 20 minutes or fill a day with eating
and gallery hopping. At Roses Bakery Cafe ($;
closed Sun; 382 Prune Alley, Eastsound; 360/3765805), crowd your picnic basket with bread,
cheese, and Northwest wine. Then head east
out of town along Crescent Beach and south
around the bay. Here, 5,200-acre Moran
State Park offers great picnic spots, from
placid Cascade Lake to the top of 2,409-foot
Mt. Constitution for the San Juans’ best view.
Try to squeeze in the Lambiel Museum (by
appoint­ment only; 668 Olga Rd.; 360/376-4544),
an impressive private collection of San Juan
Islands art that can be toured with the
collector himself, Leo Lambiel.
Complete your Orcas day with Alaska
scallops or Northwest bouillabaisse at the
bayside Inn at Ship Bay ($$$; closed Sun–Mon;
rooms from $175; innatshipbay.com), a fine over17 Sunset Travel Guide
night option. The halibut tacos served at the
restaurant of the waterfront Kingfish Inn ($$;
rooms from $160; kingfishinn.com ), another good
overnight choice, are a local favorite. Be sure
to ask that they be served on a regular plate;
the taco baskets make the tortillas soggy.
Day 2: Orcas & San Juan
Head to Orcas’s far west coast and the hamlet
of Deer Harbor. At Bellport Deer Harbor
Marina, meet your guide from Shearwater
Kayak Tours ($65; 360/376-4699 )for a threehour exploration of clear waters and kelp
forests surrounding the Wasp Islands, which
dot the sea between Orcas and Shaw Islands.
Then it’s back to the ferry landing to catch the
40-minute boat ride to San Juan Island.
San Juan is the most populated island of
the chain—so relatively cosmopolitan that
its largest town, Friday Harbor, is dubbed
“Sin City” by residents of other islands
Day 3: San Juan
Whale day. Power breakfast on omelets and
hash browns at locals’ favorite Rocky Bay
Cafe ($; 225 Spring St., Friday Harbor; 360/3785051), then meet the San Juan Islands’ most
famous summer inhabi-tants, the up-to-25foot-long, 12,000-pound southern resident
killer whales.
To try for an eye-level orca sighting,
Outdoor Odysseys ($95; outdoorodysseys.com) is
genuinely one of the greatest beginner’s kayaking experiences you’ll find anywhere: Orcas
aren’t absolutely guaranteed but are likely. Or,
if you don’t want to have your whale experience out on the water, hit the Whale Museum
(62 First St. N., Friday Harbor; 800/946-7227) by far
andrea m. gomez (2)
Shearwater Kayaking
Tours right A tasty plate
at Market Chef
because of its wider selection of bars.
Still, urban misbehaving isn’t what you
first notice here: It’s the bucolic photo ops,
like those at fragrant Pelindaba Lavender
Farm (33 Hawthorne Lane; 866/819-1911). More
views and cliffside driving come along West
Side Road overlooking the Haro Strait and
Vancouver Island. Then continue north, navigating your way to Roche Harbor Resort, and
join the posse of wealthy yacht-ies and
wannabes grabbing cool ones at the
Madrona Bar & Grill ($$; in Roche Harbor
Resort; 800/451-8910). If you can withstand
yacht envy, stroll the docks afterward and
drool over the costly boats.
The best dinner choice, Duck Soup Inn ($$$;
50 Duck Soup Lane; 360/378-4878), shines with
grilled kelp-dusted Alaska sea scallops, applewood smoked local oysters, and exemplary
fresh corn soufflé. For lodging, tony Bird Rock
Hotel (from $117; birdrockhotel.com) is in the
center of Friday Harbor (innkeepers dispense
earplugs in case guests are bothered by smalltown bustle). Outside town, very close to Duck
Soup, the pastoral 82-acre Lakedale Resort at
Three Lakes (see The ultimate seaside sleeps,
page 3) offers rustic canvas tent cabins, private
log cabins, and lodge rooms.
Sunset Travel Guide
More island
delights
Kayaking with Outdoor
Odysseys Above Moran
State Park left Local plums
the San Juans’ best indoor attraction, with
whale exhibits, whale skeletons, and a whale
phone booth where you hear whale songs,
with no long-distance charges. For lunch, the
nearby Market Chef ($; closed Sat–Sun; 225 A
St., Friday Harbor; 360/378-4546) has excellent
sandwiches and salads.
Now for a San Juan Island secret. The
Backdoor Kitchen ($$$; 400 A St., Friday Harbor;
360/378-9540) isn’t exactly flashy: This intimate
bamboo-screened oasis is squirreled away
behind Friday Harbor Freight yard. No wonder
few visitors find themselves here. But you
should, and allow enough time before your
reservation to sit at the tiny copper bar and
order a cocktail. The dinner menu continent18 Sunset Travel Guide
hops from Thailand to the Middle East, then
back to the Northwest, and it’s all stellar.
Day 4: Lopez
“Slow-pez” San Juaneros call it, for Lopez
Island’s bucolic, unpeopled setting and its
friendly, finger-wave pace. You’ll probably
notice the island’s relaxed rhythm as soon as
you dock after the hourlong ferry ride from
Friday Harbor. Because it’s flatter than its
sister islands, one of the best things to do
here is ride bikes.
You can rent them at Cascadia Kayak and
Bike (bikes $7 an hour; 360/468-3008) and head
to the tiny smattering of shops that makes
up Lopez Village. Stop at Caffe La Boheme
(211 Lopez Rd., Lopez Village; 360/468-3533) for
coffee, and then, fortified, pedal north the 3.5
miles to 138-acre Spencer Spit State Park,
where a triangle of sandy beach surrounding
a saltwater lagoon is loaded with driftwood
like Lincoln Logs, which locals like to pile into
fantastical sculptures.
Back at Fisherman Bay after returning
your wheels, have your last island meal at
the Galley ($$; 3365 Fisherman Bay Rd.; 360/4682713), where fresh halibut and Lopez oysters
are served on hand-painted tables. The food
is so good, the setting so beautiful, that
when you consider boarding the ferry back to
“the real world”—what islanders call the
mainland—you may decide to stay. If you do,
MacKaye Harbor Inn (from $155; mackaye
harborinn.com) is a gracious farmhouse
turned five-room inn right on the water.
clcokwise from top: andrea m. gomez, thomas j. story, andrea m. gomez
Swim in the Sea of Cortez, Near La
Paz, Baja. This desert isle’s population
is big—if you count pelicans, parrot
fish, and dolphins. If you count people?
It’s uninhabited. Day trips with kayaking $105, 2-day camping safaris (through
Oct) $360; funbaja.com
Enjoy the sound of silence, Channel
Islands N.P., CA. Most visitors to the
Channel Islands (nps.gov/chis) head to
Santa Cruz, but true solitude seekers
should hit Santa Rosa Island, where
you can camp ($15/night; recreation.gov)
amid 84 square miles of flowering
canyon, powder-sand beach, and
groves of Torrey pines. $65 for day-trippers, $90 for campers; islandpackers.com
Go on a northern safari, Kodiak, AK.
For being the country’s second-largest
island, Kodiak is remarkably intimate.
Fog drifts through moss-cloaked, bearloving forests, and only puffins break
the silence at remote beaches. kodiak.
org
Discover a new Hawaiian island, Just
off Kailua, Oahu, HI . A half-hour from
the frenzy of Waikiki, the low-key town
of Kailua is the shove-off point for even
greater solitude. Paddle about an hour
across warm, turquoise Kailua Bay to
North Mokulua Island, one of a pair of
protected bird sanctuaries known as the
Mokes. From $39/half-day; guided tours of
the Mokes $125; kailuasailboards.com
Sunset Travel Guide
Passionfish
right Endless
Summer
serves up fast, fresh fare—deep-fried,
steamed, or grilled fish—from a cornflower
blue cabana. Fanny Bay oysters from “up
island” are an area favorite, served beside
chips in newspaper cones. Dine picnic-style
on the gently bobbing dock while taking in
the resident harbor seals and colorful houseboats all around you. $$; Fisherman’s Wharf, 12
Erie St.; 250/384-6515.
The best fresh catch served just a hop from the ocean’s waves
Barbara’s Fishtrap, Princeton-by-theSea, CA
With its anchor-and-schooner tablecloths
and faux-fishnet ceiling, the Pillar Point
Harbor classic is strictly old school—just the
way we like it. Barbara’s is famous for its
dairy-free clam chowder, but everyone
waiting in line for a table has a different
favorite. For many it’s the fish and chips—
flaky rockfish and thick-cut fries in portions
19 Sunset Travel Guide
suitable for two. Others wax rhapsodic over
the tempura-battered calamari. Whatever
you order, tear yourself away from your plate
long enough to appreciate the view of
Mavericks, California’s famed big-wave surf
break. $$, cash only; 281 Capistrano Rd.;
650/728-7049.
Barb’s Place Fish & Chips, Victoria, B.C.
Floating at Fisherman’s Wharf, Barb’s Place
Drakes Beach Café, Near Inverness, CA
Every Sunday afternoon in summer, outdoor
grills sizzle at the tip of Point Reyes National
Seashore. Hikers plunk down at cafe tables in
the sun or right in the sand by the waves to
feast on piles of barbecued oysters, smoky
corn on the cob, and grilled garlic bread. Then
there’s the menu inside, drawn from local,
mainly organic, truly top-notch ingredients:
Dungeness crab, Cowgirl Creamery cheeses,
and Brickmaiden Breads. $$$; lunch daily; tableservice dinners Fri and Sat (reservations required);
oyster barbecues Sun; 1 Drakes Beach Rd. (next to
the visitor center); 415/669-1297.
passionfish, andrea gomez
Top seafood
Crazy Norwegian’s Fish and Chips,
Port Orford, OR
Port Orford is the westernmost town on the
Oregon Coast and is a bit of a trek from most
places. But if the views along U.S. 101 aren’t
enough for you, the lightly battered, perfectly
fried fish and rich housemade clam chowder
at Crazy Norwegian’s make the trip worthwhile. There is often a line at the wood-sided
A-frame restaurant, but it moves quickly and
you can use the time to decide which cookie,
dessert bar, or local berry pie to order. $$; 259
Sixth St.; 541/332-8601.
Sunset Travel Guide
Fish, in scenic
Sausalito
sautéed in coconut milk, kalua pig, grilled
banana, Molokai purple sweet potatoes, poi,
tropical fruit, and fresh coconut. All that, and
you don’t have to sit through a bad luau. $$$$;
799 Poho Pl.; 808/579-8488.
Passionfish, Pacific Grove, CA
Chef Ted Walter and his wife, Cindy, are
passionate about sustainable seafood, which
he prepares expertly. Order a fish you haven’t
tried before, and you’ll be rewarded with the
likes of lemongrass-scented sturgeon or
balsamic butter-marinated tilapia. More
familiar items are far from mundane, like the
delicately crisp, baseball-size Dungeness
crabcake. The setting echoes the simple
elegance of the food. $$$; 701 Lighthouse Ave.;
831/655-3311.
Quimby’s Restaurant, Newport, OR
Three big hunks of Alaskan halibut, tempurabattered and quickly fried, and a healthy
scoop of fresh, zesty slaw: There’s more on
the menu, but with a meal this good, why
bother? Make a night of it; tablecloths gussy
up the place, and the Newport Performing
Arts Center is across the street. Or stomp off
the sand on a beach day; it’s just a block from
the Nye Beach Turnaround. Bonus: The
ocean view is nice too. $$; 740 W. Olive St.;
866/784-6297.
Fish, Sausalito, CA
When the fog pulls back, everyone shows up
here. They grab mason jars of draft beer and
head out to the picnic tables alongside a
harbor bobbing with day boats to wait for the
20 Sunset Travel Guide
fish and chips. The moist, scalding Alaskan
halibut encased in crisped batter dosed with
Anchor Steam will erase anyone’s bad Van de
Kamps memories. The Saigon sandwich dolls
up a Vietnamese street-food classic with
grilled local salmon, and a big ol’ pile of Tuscan
white bean and tuna salad is filling and fresh.
True, you’ll spend twice what you might
expect, but then again, you’ll be happy you
did. $$$, cash only; 350 Harbor Dr.; 415/331-3474.
Mama’s Fish House, Pa’ia, HI
Sure, Mama’s is a bit more expensive than
your average fish joint. But its Maui oceanside setting bordered by swaying palms puts it
in the million-dollar-view category, making
dinner seem like a bargain. The fish is wild,
mostly local, and fresh, prepared in contemporary Polynesian style. Don’t miss the Pua
Me Hua Hana special: a platter of mahimahi
Sunfish, Seattle, WA
Amid banter between the two Greek owners
and the customers, Sunfish serves up delicate, paper-wrapped cod, halibut, wild
salmon, and shellfish. For a sampler plate,
try the combo—or better, Sunfish’s signature
fish kabob. Nearly everything is less than $10
and comes with homemade tartar sauce and
garlic malt vinegar. Eat here or across the
street at Alki Beach, with views of Puget
Sound. $, cash and local checks only; closed
Mon; 2800 Alki Ave. S.W.; 206/938-4112.
rob d. brodman
Endless Summer Bar-Café, Santa
Barbara, CA
Epitomizing the town’s casual surfer chic,
this harborside gem has surfboards hanging
from the ceiling and surf videos scrolling,
reminders of the world’s perfect waves. And,
yes, Bruce Brown, director of the original
Endless Summer (1966), eats here. But it’s the
food that stars: seafood fresh off the docks,
transformed via the lightest batter and
seasonings into something mouthwatering.
Try the popcorn shrimp or the sesamecrusted ahi on a warm spinach salad. $$; 113
Harbor Way; 805/564-4666.
Shoals Restaurant, Ventura, CA
Hidden inside the Cliff House Inn, north of
Ventura, the Shoals serves fine and fresh
seafood: sea bass, shrimp, scallops, calamari,
and clams, bathed in delicious sauces. The
restaurant fills up fast, so make reservations.
Just beyond the patio tables lies the surf
break of Mussel Shoals; from here on a
summer night, you might see the dark forms
of dolphins gliding past, backlit by glittering
moonlight. $$$; 6602 U.S. 101; 805/652-1381.
Sunset Travel Guide
musicians, etc. All told, 24 self-taught vintners are making wine, from their vineyards
and from grapes hauled in from more familiar
wine regions. Nineteen of them have tasting
rooms (if you count the garage), and only
three of those are in an official AVA (American Viticultural Area).
THE ANSWER It’s Humboldt!
Think wine now instead of marijuana (the
California county’s better-known product).
From redwood groves in the south to funky
fishing towns in the north to mountain vineyards in the east, this vast region can be
navigated––and the wines that have quietly
come on line here in the last 10 years can be
tasted––in one grand three-day weekend.
Southern Humboldt
Redwoods overshadow pocket vineyards
where Interstate 101 snakes in from
Mendocino County.
Wine discovery
The coast’s newest wine region is in the last place you’d think
Hint 1 A Syrah made here recently garnered
90 points from Robert Parker (not that we’re
rabid chasers of his wine scores, but…). The
region also produces Pinot Noir, sparklers,
and even an Arneis—Italy’s “little rascal” of
a grape, which one pioneering winemaker is
experimenting with. You have to visit this
region to taste these wines—or order them
online. They don’t leave the county.
Hint 2 A tootling drive around this region
21 Sunset Travel Guide
takes you through ancient redwoods and
over remote forested mountains. And when
you tire of vineyard sleuthing, you can get
lost on an endless coast with a stash of local
cheese and oysters (extra hint: 70 percent of
the state’s oyster supply comes from these
waters).
Hint 3 Few winemakers here have enology
degrees. They’re organic farmers, retired (or
not) CHP officers, loggers turned growers,
Tasting. An eclectic mix of a nursery, art
gallery, wine bar, and cafe. Buy an olive tree,
taste stone-fruited Briceland Arneis or earthy
White-thorn Pinot, and order crêpes. $; tasting from $4; closed Sun–Tue; 1055 Redway Dr.,
Redway; persimmonsgardengallery.com or
707/923-2748.
Riverbend Cellars. Aptly named, these vineyards are almost completely encircled by the
Eel River. Amazingly, the likes of Cabernet,
Merlot, and Syrah are ripening on this chilly
flat. $5.50 tasting; 12990 Avenue of the Giants,
Myers Flat; riverbendcellars.com or 707/943-9907.
Elk Prairie Vineyard. This tasting hut high
above Humboldt Redwoods State Park yields
wild views and lovely Pinot Noir. By appointment; elkprairievineyard.com or 707/943-3498.
EAT The Groves. Sister to Riverbend Cellars,
the restaurant end of this winery complex
serves up some of the best dinners in the
county. The duck two ways is addictive, and
the wood-fired pizzas are memorable. $$$;
thomas j. story (2)
DRINK Persimmons Garden Gallery & Wine
The region’s majestic
redwoods right Tasting
the famed 90 point Syrah
Sunset Travel Guide
View to forever from
the Moonstone Grill
below Elk Prairie’s
vines left Wood-fired
pizza at the Groves
More unsung
wine destinations
Instead of Santa Ynez Valley ...
try santa barbara
Ditch the drive to wine country and
taste as any biped should: on foot. A
cluster of wineries in the industrial
hood locals know as the Funk Zone are
pouring the area’s famous Pinot, Chardonnay, and Cabernet grapes. We like
Kunin Wines ($10 tasting; 28 Anacapa
St.; kuninwines.com or 805/963-9633), in
a WWII Army barrack turned tasting
room. The honeysuckle-ish Viognier is
a great pour.
Instead of paso robles ...
Try Avila Beach
With its sunny microclimate, beachfront promenade, and down-to-earth
vibe, Avila might be the ultimate
sampler platter of all things classically
Californian. The best way to explore is
to bounce back and forth from beach to
valley—from sunsets and sandy feet to
berries and barrel tastings. You can
check out the converted two-room
schoolhouse that is Salisbury Vineyards any day of the week, but Sunday
afternoon is when it really gets jumping. The Schoolhouse Rock Concert
Series has live music, barbecue, tours,
and lots and lots of Salisbury’s awardwinning wine. $5 entry, $5 tasting, barbecue from $5; 6985 Ontario Rd.;
salisburyvineyards.com
closed Tue–Wed; 707/943-9930.
Moonstone Crossing. Funky beach town
stay Miranda Gardens Resort. Cozy cottages
deep in the redwoods. From $105, including
breakfast; mirandagardens.com or 707/943-3011.
mood; wines full of character, like Old Vine Zin,
berried and peppery. $5 tasting; closed Mon–Tue
except by appointment; 529 Trinity St., Trinidad;
moonstonecrossing.com or 707/845-5492.
EAT Restaurant 301 (at Carter House Inns).
It’s hard to pass up the twice-baked soufflé
with local Cypress Grove chèvre, and the
wine list is a full evening’s reading. $$$$; 301 L
St., Eureka; 707/444-8062.
Moonstone Grill. Join locals around the bar
for oysters, or claim the table in the window
corner for a compelling ocean view. $$$; closed
Mon–Tue; 100 Moonstone Beach Rd., Westhaven; 707/677-1616.
STAY The Lost Whale Inn. The cove right
Northern Humboldt
Happy cows graze around college and beach
towns, where rich soil meets the sea.
DRINK Robert Goodman Wines. New, artful
college-town tasting room (left, page 40; a
restaurant is still to come in this historic
machine shop) is home to a tasty Cabernet—
from Napa Valley. But there are local Pinot,
Zinfandel, and Chardonnay too. Open late; 937
10th St., Arcata; robertgoodmanwines.com or
707/826-9463.
22 Sunset Travel Guide
Eastern Humboldt
Mountainous Willow Creek is the only official
AVA in this huge county.
DRINK Dogwood Estate. Not in Humboldt but
in the AVA, this Med-style tasting room in
Salyer pours yummy “Mea Culpa”—Zin, Cab,
and Merlot. By appointment; 530/629-2191.
Sentinel Winery. “Garage wine” is no trendy
phrase here: Sip the pretty ’06 Pinot on the
pocket patio overlooking the pocket Willow
Creek vineyard. By appointment; 530/629-2338.
Winnett Vineyards. The ridgetop winery barn
of the Winnetts overlooks the Trinity River.
Try the citrusy Sauv Blanc, with a smidge of
stone fruit. By appointment; winnettvineyards.
com or 530/629-3478.
thomas j. story (3)
below this Trinidad inn offers up your own
colony of sea lions, and a good hot breakfast
will make you forget that they barked all
night. From $250, including breakfast; 2-night
minimum; lostwhaleinn.com or 800/677-7859.
Sunset Travel Guide
Travel
resources
Find more inspiration for travel in the West
on Sunset.com
Santa Barbara’s hidden gems
Rediscover this coastal favorite with insider tips on how to leave
the crowds behind. You’ll experience Santa Barbara off the
beaten path with little-known hotel deals, superb eats, and
alternatives to heavily trafficked attractions and shopping areas.
www.sunset.com/travel/california
Leaves may be starting to fall, but the West comes alive in
autumn: harvest festivals, lively tasting rooms, colorful landscapes, and shoulder-season deals make it a spectacular
season to hit your favorite spots—or discover new ones. Get
inspired with our trip ideas, from Monterey’s wine road to
Yellowstone’s resplendent fall color.
www.sunset.com/travel
Sunset.com/Travel
Your ultimate resource for travel in the
West, Sunset Travel is packed with tips
on the best places to go, from National
Parks to urban retreats. Get inspired
with Sunset’s ideas for fun weekend
trips or the ultimate Western vacation.
www.sunset.com/travel
Romantic getaways
In the West, we’ve got a leg up on
romance. For one, we’ve got natural
beauty galore. But we’ve also got a
plethora of hideaways that make the
heart grow fonder, from a Moroccanthemed oasis in L.A. to cuddling up to
the sound of waves in B.C.
www.sunset.com/travel
23 Sunset Travel Guide
Clockwise from left: wyoming tourism, andrea m. gomez, hotel figueroa
35 great autumn getaways
Sunset Travel Guide
A
Travel
Guides
Explore the best
of the West
Download our full library of free travel guides at
travelupdate.sunset.com
Top 7 Hawaii
Vacation Deals
2010
Big Sur,
Monterey &
Carmel: Hotels,
Attractions, and
More 2010
Grand Canyon
National Park
Hotels and
Activities 2010
Napa Valley:
Wineries, Hotels,
Dining, and More
2010
Seattle
Hotels and
Washington
Vacations 2010
California Travel
Deals 2010
Best of Los
Angeles: Hotel
Deals, Dining,
and Attractions
2010
Grand Teton
National Park &
Yellowstone
National Park:
Hotels and More
2010
Best of San
Diego: Hotels,
Dining, and
Attractions 2010
Best of Portland:
Hotels, Dining,
and Attractions
2010
Yosemite
National Park
Hotels and
Activities 2010
Best of San
Francisco:
Dining, Hotels,
and Attractions
2010
Best of CA’s
Central Coast:
San Luis Obispo
Hotels, Paso
Robles Wineries,
and More 2010
Flagstaff &
Sedona: Resorts,
Things to Do in
Sedona RedRock Country,
and More 2010
Palm Springs
Hotel Deals &
Things to Do in
Palm Springs
2010
24 Sunset Travel Guide
Subscribe to
Sunset
You’re invited to enjoy a FREE PREVIEW of the next 2 issues of
Sunset magazine risk-free. No obligation to buy.
The
Western
lifestyle is
a journey.
Sunset
magazine
is its road
map.
If you live in the West, or visit it regularly, you already know Sunset. For more than 110 years,
Sunset has been the West’s preeminent source for information on home, food, travel, and
gardening. Sunset is the leading independent authority on Western living.
What makes Sunset magazine so special? For some of our devoted readers, Sunset both
informs and delights their passions for the scenic beauty of the West and their desire for travel
and exploration. For other subscribers, Sunset is about celebrating the newest and best ideas
in Western home design and landscaping. Whether you’re looking for Western travel and
recreation…gardening and outdoor living…home and design…or food, wine and casual
entertaining —Sunset is your monthly ticket to a dream.
Sunset does more than just tell you how to build a gracious life —Sunset shows you “howto-do-it.”
“Preview 2 issues of SUNSET magazine absolutely risk-free.”
If you like Sunset after receiving your 2 FREE PREVIEW ISSUES, you’ll pay just $16 for 10
more, for a total of 12 in all. This price includes the cost of your FREE PREVIEW Issues—a
savings of 73% off the newsstand price.
If you’re not completely satisfied, you’ll return the bill marked “cancel” and owe nothing.
The cancellation is effective immediately, and any Free Preview issues you receive are yours
to keep FREE!
To subscribe, visit www.sunset.com/travelsub
or call 800/823-7270
A
25 Sunset Travel Guide