FISH ROOMS

Transcription

FISH ROOMS

LFS TOUR
MANCHESTER
ISSUE 11
Sep-Oct 2012 | £3.99
WIN £170 OF NT LABS GOODIES
SCOTT MICHAEL
RABBITFISHES
RABBIT
IGGY TAVARES
THE DEEP
AQUARIUM
REVIEW
FISH
ROOMS
MATT PEDERSEN
ULTIMATE
SPECIES
A room for the obsessed
GUIDE
HOBBYIST PROFILE
CORALS AT THEIR BEST?
ALSO INSIDE THIS ISSUE:
Banggai Conservation Project Expert Advice News Round-up Underwater Experience (Part 2) SEA LIFE (Seals) Myth-Buster (Territory)
Gear Guide Coral Reefs of Indonesia (Part 4) Top Tanks Shop Profiles Top Of The Rocks – Molluscs Fragging (Montis) TMC Wordsearch
100 PAGES OF YOUR FAVOURITE HOBBY INCLUDING EQUIPMENT, FISH, CORALS, CONSERVATION & AQUARIUMS
001_Cover_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 01:15:56
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Salinity
Ca
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At Red Sea our research team established that in a reef
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Weeks
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Red Sea Aquatics (UK) Ltd
PO Box 1237
Cheddar, BS279AG
T: +44 (0) 203 3711492
[email protected]
_Adverts_MH011.indd 1
www.redseafish.com
20/08/2012 04:16:06
DID YOU KNOW?
CARDINAL FISH
Cardinal fish are one of the easiest
groups of marine fish to breed in
captivity. This is due to the fact that they
produce very well-developed offspring
capable of ingesting relatively large
food particles. Cardinal fish are one
of the few examples of marine fish that
‘mouth brood’. The male fish of a pair
of cardinals maintains eggs inside its
large mouth. Once the eggs hatch,
the young fish are also retained inside
the adult fish’s mouth until they reach
approximately 5mm in size. This means
they are capable of taking food stuffs
such as lobster eggs and newly hatched
brine shrimp.
To further compound the appeal of
cardinals to the hobbyist, they’re hardy,
relatively disease-resistant, and eat
almost anything. Certain species, such
as the Banggai Cardinal (Pterapogon
kauderni) pictured, also form fascinating
symbioses with urchins. The male fish spit
their offspring in amongst the venomous
spines of Diadema sp. urchins, which
keeps them safe from predation, in
a relationship which can easily be
recreated in the home aquarium.
BY DR NICK BRYAN
Marine Habitat – 3
003_Didyouknow_MH010.indd 1
20/08/2012 01:06:32
Issue 11 September- October 2012
Cover image: © Bluehand |
Dreamstime.com
Issue 11
Sep-Oct 2012
Publisher
Postal Address:
Fish Junkies Ltd.,
PO BOX 4838,
Sheffield S12 9DU
Tel: 0844 6932979 (UK Only)
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.fish-junkies.co.uk
Editors-in-Chief (Joint)
Andy Gascoigne and Dave Pitt
Editor – Dave Pitt
Designer – Andy Gascoigne
Website – Chris Arthur
Publishing Asst. – Cat Hartley
Copy Editor – Lynda Glover
Circulation – Steve Tiernan
Subscriptions – Joe Broadhead
Advertising – Dave Pitt
Accounts – Barbara Maycock
Regular Contributors
Bob Goemans, Gary Wallace,
Iggy Tavares, Jason Thresher,
John Clipperton, John Dawes,
Levi Major, Matt Pedersen,
Maria Grogan, Nick Bryan,
Scott Michael, Tristan Lougher
Guest Contributors
Ben Woodward, Mark Oakley,
Mark Wilson, Martyn ZombieTuesday
Mike Brunskill, Neil Harris,
Patrick Blanche, Philippe Poppe,
Wayne Oxborough
Contributing Forums
www.thesaltybox.com
www.reef-face.co.uk
www.ultimatereef.net
Join us on Facebook or Twitter now
Fish Junkies Ltd. thoroughly checks the
accuracy of all incoming content, however will
not be held responsible for inaccuracies within
supplied content.
All rights reserved. No part of Marine Habitat
may be reproduced in any way without prior
written consent from Fish Junkies Ltd. Copyright
2012 by Fish Junkies Ltd.
Printed in the UK by Stones The Printers.
www.stonestheprinters.co.uk
Registered Office:
Fish Junkies Ltd., Hart Shaw Building, Europa Link,
Sheffield Business Park, S9 1XU.
Company No.: 07349873.
Registered in England & Wales.
Conservation and restoration at its
best. Corals finding their way onto
a purpose-built structure to help
encourage the growth of new reefs.
See page 13 for the full story.
6 – Marine Habitat
004-005_Contents_MH011.indd 1
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MarineHabitatMagazine.com
ON THE COVER
41
>> Keeping Rabbits
Scott Michael
Scott Michael provides a detailed study on
these attractive and intriguing algae eaters.
Could one of these be your next purchase?
41
57
85
74
85
REGULARS
37
46
>> Gear Guide
>> Editorial
Dave Pitt and Andy Gascoigne
Marine Habitat’s joint editors-in-chief
welcome readers to the issue, and provide
some thoughts on planning for going away.
>> Myth-Busters – Aquarium
Aggression Nick Bryan
Nick dispels some myths about aquarium
fish territorial aggression.
51
48
>> Gear Guide Revealed
57
>> Top Of The Rocks – Molluscs
Tristan Lougher
This issue’s Top 10 focuses on the true workhorses of the aquarium and Tristan reveals
his favourite molluscs.
74
>> Fish Rooms (Part 1)
Matt Pedersen
Matt Pedersen hopes to inspire you to
build your very own fish room with his first
article of a new series.
>> Public Aquarium Review –
The Deep Iggy Tavares
Yet again Iggy has been on his travels,
and this time he tells us all about the
The Deep in Hull.
7
17
>> Expert Advice
Expert Panel
Our experts discuss the use of copper,
measuring salinity, evaporation, established
tank water, and nutritional variation diets.
70
>> News Round-up
Maria Grogan
Get up to date with marine-related news
from around the world.
>> International Banggai
Conservation John Dawes
John provides an insight into a very
important project concerning Banggai
Cardinalfish, which is now under way. He
presents some of the latest information
and images available.
80
>> Fragging Montipora
Jason Thresher
It’s time to get your hands wet and follow
this issue’s step-by-step guide on how to
frag Montipora.
>>
LFS Tour, Manchester
Dave Pitt
Members of the Marine Habitat team went
out and about, to see what the marine
shops in Manchester have to offer.
24
>> Underwater Experience (Part 2)
Neil Harris
Neil Harris decides to give scuba
diving a go, and takes us through his
experiences. He relates how a Red
Sea visit made such an impact that it
came to be a major part of his life.
29
>> Your Ultimate Species Guide
John Clipperton and Gary Wallace
The profiles this time are: Coral Beauty, Sea
Apple, Pipe Organ, and our temperate
entry is the Corkwing Wrasse.
65
>> Hobbyist Profile
Martyn ZombieTuesday
In this issue we learn about the journey of
Martyn ZombieTuesday, who has created
an amazing tank, with a keen eye for good
parameters and plenty of hard work to get
his tank looking fantastic.
82
>> Shop Profiles
COMPETITIONS
36
13
>> Coral Reefs of Indonesia (Part 4)
Patrick Blanche
In the final part of this series, Patrick
tells us about the Biorock project,
technology invented by Wolf Hilbertz
and Tom Goreau, and its potential to
rebuild the coral reefs worldwide.
In this issue we reveal the Eco-Lamp
LED light unit aimed at beginners.
Support your local fish shop – three shop
profiles, each offering a discount voucher.
If you haven’t visited the shops before, now
is the time to check them out and save
money at the same time.
FEATURES
8
A quick rundown of loads of useful and
interesting products for you to check out.
91
>> Sea Life – Seals (Part 5)
Mark Oakley
The Sea Life network operates one
of the busiest seal rescue and
rehabilitation programmes in the
world, and it all started by accident.
Mark Oakley tells us all about it.
REVIEWS
28
>> Top Tanks
Reef-Face Forum
In each issue we acknowledge a
selection of the best hobbyist tanks
from the Reef-Face forum.
>> Competition
NT Labs
This time four winners will each receive a
full set of the Marine range from NT Labs.
96
>> Wordsearch
TMC
The prize for this issue is the all-new Spy
Lens from TMC.
ISSUE 10
COMPETITION WINNERS
AQUATICS LIVE COMPETITION
Due to the number of winners last month we have
published all the details online at
www.marinehabitatmagazine.com
WORDSEARCH WINNERS
Dawn Ash (Devon); Sam Lewsey (Devon);
M. Malia (Lincoln); Allan Lown (Peterborough);
James Meakin (Wiltshire); Robert Shaw (Essex).
004-005_Contents_MH011.indd 2
20/08/2012 18:14:05
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Marine Parazoryne is a herbal
treatment to support recovery
from parasitic infections, including
white spot and Oodinium in marine
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marine reef life. Can support the
regeneration of damaged skin
tissue and helps marine fish to
regain their original beauty.
Find your
local stockist
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20/08/2012 04:18:18
WE L C O M E
Healthy Banggai Cardinals
looking brilliant.
Image courtesy of John Dawes.
Planning a holiday in the near future, or maybe
even a honeymoon? If so, then you might want
to tune in and start thinking ahead.
PLANNING FOR TRIPS AWAY
DAVE: I was talking with a fellow hobbyist
friend recently, Neil Davison, who at the
time was preparing to get married to his
now wife, Emma. His concern was what to
do with his tank while he was away on his
honeymoon. Holidays are something we all
take and are worth considering in advance.
A number of elements come into
play, some more relevant than others,
depending on how long you intend to
leave the tank for and/or who you are
leaving in charge of it. While every system
has different requirements when it comes
to daily maintenance and upkeep, I think
it’s fair to assume a couple of things in all
cases; a tank can last a day without any
human input, but equally, a month would
be too long. With these two extremes
in mind, maybe take a minute now to
think about how long you think your tank
could last without input. Once you have
the answer, you can begin to make
plans for any forthcoming holiday.
In Neil’s case, he and his wife to be were
planning a one-week honeymoon and a
number of aspects needed consideration,
starting with topping up. This was no problem
because he employs an auto top-up unit
with a sufficiently large reservoir. In terms of
calculate the correct quantity, you could
measure out the right amount for each day.
Neil’s fish stock is very small and so he
doesn’t feed much per day, but he does
vary between dried and frozen food.
His decided approach was to leave out
the frozen and then utilise a pillbox for
cleaning the glass/filters, etc., yes this may
the dried food, which lists the days on
be overdue upon return but there would
each compartment.
be little detrimental effect
To conclude, I would like to
over the space of a week.
Without going into
congratulate Neil and Emma
Weekly water changes are
specifics, my advice who have now (11th Aug)
normally completed and so
here would be to
become man and wife. I
on this occasion, there was
nothing to do there. Then
think through what would also like to specifically
Emma for being so
we come to feeding, and
you feed, and when, thank
patient with Neil throughout
obviously, it’s not advisable
and write it all down his recent tank crisis, during
to leave inhabitants
which the glass cracked and
without food for a week.
leaked all over the dining room floor of their
Without going into specifics, my advice
relatively new home. I hope you are
here would be to think through what you
feed, and when, and write it
all down. If you are relying on
someone else taking over this
responsibility, especially if it’s
a non-marine person, then
you need to remove the risk of
errors as much as possible. It
may be that certain aspects
of the feeding regime can
be skipped for a period of
one week. It may be that if
you vary between a couple
of brands of food, you could
Newlyweds Emma and
stick to one brand. It may be
Neil Davison. Good
that rather than expecting
luck for the future.
the nominated person to
007-011_Editorial_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 20:41:38
Editorial > Marine Habitat
both very happy together and continue
to enjoy the hobby, hopefully crisis free!
FISH SHOP TOUR
ANDY: This has been a great month for us
because we took a trip over to Manchester
for a look round some of their local fish
shops. There was one observation that was
unavoidable, and this has made for a great
write-up, and that was that of the four shops
we visited, you couldn’t have asked for more
variation between them. It’s not always
about being the biggest, but more so, it
seems these shops succeed in reasonably
close proximity to each other because
they have all found their own space in the
hobby, and they all offer a slightly different
shopping experience. Check out Dave’s
write-up of our trip, starting on the next page.
of the four shops we
visited, you couldn’t
have asked for more
variation between them
JUL/AUG 2012 ISSUE – MISTAKES
DAVE: I want to acknowledge a couple of
unfortunate mistakes in the last issue, as
I would rather be honest than shy away
from them. In the Activated Carbon article,
there was a section of text missing between
pages 42 and 43. The missing text has been
provided on the website. Also, unfortunately,
in the Handy Calculations feature on page
64, the aquarium volume calculation is
incorrect. This should be Volume (l) = [height
(cm) x width (cm) x length (cm)]/1000.
In both cases, the digital version of
the magazine has been updated.
THE AQUARIUM
AT COCKFIELDS
OASIS AQUARIUM
FEEDBACK
ANDY: I want to thank one of our
readers, Kerr Clement, for sending in
the following positive feedback …
Hi there, still enjoying the magazine,
thanks. It gets better each time, and I
always look forward to it coming through
my letterbox. The paper quality is one of
its best points. I also like how the cover
fluoresces on the coffee table when the
blue actinic lights are the last ones in the
aquarium to go off. Awesome!! If you
haven’t seen it you really must try it at home.
Kerr Clement, Colchester, Essex.
ATHLETES
DAVE: Finally, congratulations to all who
competed in the games this August, and
especially those walking away with a nice
shiny medal. In particular, a big well done
to local Sheffield legend Jessica Ennis.
Dave
& Andy
20/08/2012 20:41:47
LFS Tour – Manchester > Marine Habitat
LFS
TOUR
Manchester
Time to get out and about and see
what the fish shops in Manchester and
the surrounding areas have to offer.
A
s you may be aware if you
follow us on Facebook or
Twitter, since the last issue
we took a little time out to visit some fish
shops, and where better to start than
Manchester. Chris, Andy and I took a
tour of four fish shops, and somehow, in
amongst the endless number of overcast
rainy days we’d been experiencing,
we managed to pick a corker. It was
a sunny cloud-free Saturday and we
had nothing to do but spend the day
visiting fish shops – I’ve had worse days!
After a 7.00 a.m. start, we got halfway
across the Snake Pass from Sheffield to
Manchester and couldn’t resist pulling
over for a quick brew and a sausage
sandwich. Moving on, our first stop was The
Aquarium at Cockfields Farm. We should
have been more patient and waited until
we arrived, because there is a fab café
on site. But being northern, we didn’t miss
the opportunity to squeeze in a second
brew before getting down to business.
I was eagerly wanting to see what this
shop had to offer; I couldn’t help peering
around, and then through a gap in the
shelving units, I saw a light beaming out
of the end of something, which, from
a distance, looked quite special.
THE AQUARIUM AT COCKFIELDS
Before getting to that, allow me a minute
to set the scene. Cockfields Farm is, in
fact, an operational farm, but the main
building on site serves as the shop area.
This is essentially a large open-plan space
hosting various attractions, including a
butchers, a farm shop, a café, a reptile
area, a play barn for the kids, and, of
course, the aquarium area, which includes
both tropical and marine species.
As you make your way over to the
aquarium area, there is little chance of
avoiding the sight of the Red Sea Max
S-650 reef tank display. Bright, clean,
healthy, well stocked with colourful
species, and with SPS corals showing
evidence of speedy growth, this display
is ideal for offering inspiration.
We moved through the other areas of
the aquatics shop, and were pleased
to have the opportunity to meet up with
and chat to Mark (manager) and Duncan
(responsible for maintaining the marine
section), who talked us through some of
the ideas behind Cockfields and the ways
in which they operate the aquatics shop.
By way of observation, Cockfields
has an extensive selection of corals,
and, importantly, appears to cater for
everyone, from those hobbyists with
small beginner tanks who perhaps want
a frag, through to the more advanced
aquarists who are looking for something
a bit extra special on the coral front.
As our visit came to a close, we
were happy to receive a little gift
by way of a sample of their homemade pork pies, which we had later
in the day for lunch – and oh my
golly gosh, they’re REALLY good!
OASIS AQUARIUM
My first thought here was that I didn’t think
you could design two more different shop
layouts if you tried, which was fantastic
because it added variation to our tour.
From the outside the shop is big and
bright blue, and upon entering there are
shelves packed to the brim with products,
which are very organised and well
displayed. We do find that there seems to
be a common theme that fish shops are
crammed with products that are presented
in a somewhat jumble sale–style, but this
wasn’t the case here. Amongst the wide
selection of dry goods, we found three
display aquariums, all offering a different
scape and species selection, and all were
well maintained. Amongst them there was
a S-650, however, it was actually one of
the other displays that stood out for us, and
in this case it was mainly hosting softies.
After wandering around enjoying the
offerings, it suddenly became clear that
we hadn’t found any fish or corals that
were actually for sale – somewhat of an
oversight for a fish shop, if I may say. Panic
over though, because by this time we
had found Eddie, who looks after things
at Oasis, and he quite rightly pointed out
the HUGE blue sign that points downstairs.
Ooops! So downstairs we went, and it
was nothing short of a big impact when
we reached the bottom. It was a bigger
than expected room fitted out with bright
white panelling, and walls upon walls of
tanks fully stocked with fish and corals.
The selection of livestock really is vast
and varied.
We were behind schedule, so we had
a quick pit stop for lunch and then it was
straight on to Urmston Aquatics.
This is a beautiful
softie tank proudly
on display at Oasis.
20/08/2012 20:41:51
URMSTON AQUATICS
This shop occupies a corner position, has
dedicated parking behind the shop, and
also has an upstairs/downstairs setup.
Urmston appears to be a more typical
local fish shop, catering for the everyday
hobbyist, rather than offering the weird,
and rare species found in some of the
other shops visited on the day. Having
said this, they did have a couple of
Spiny Blue Lobsters (Panulirus vesicolor)
in stock which are interesting creatures,
not found too frequently in hobbyist
tanks given their reef compatibility.
It was pretty busy when we arrived
and although the owner wasn’t in
to talk to us, we found our own way
downstairs and took a look around. What
was really great to see here was the
information sheets that are laminated
and displayed around the tanks. They
include images of each species, together
with basic facts and a description.
For a shop this size, it was busy and
although restricted somewhat by
space, it was good to see that a large
number of tanks have been fitted into
it, using every last corner available.
One observation here was that
the lighting over some of the tanks
perhaps wasn’t as bright as it could
have been, but we were told that
they have been trialling some new
units and are looking to have an
upgrade installed in the near future.
The shop does offer a range of fish and
inverts, but appears to focus on softies
more than the harder corals. I’m sure
however if you wanted to order something
specific, this would be no problem.
URMSTON AQUATICS
SUPPORT YOUR HIGHSTREET SHOP
By purchasing livestock and dry goods locally, you
are ensuring the growth of our fantastic hobby
THE ABYSS
THE ABYSS
The thing that struck me here was the
unusual setup, by way of the fact that
this shop is actually a warehouse. As we
entered, it became clear that this is a
well-oiled machine. Immediately to the
right is a long pay desk and information
counter, and then there are aisles upon
aisles of dry goods. Towards the back is a
separate room containing the livestock.
We somehow refrained from heading
straight for the tanks, and spent a little
time looking over some of the products
available off the shelf – let’s just say
there wasn’t much missing. Just prior to
entering the livestock area, there is a
large Abyss own-brand display aquarium,
which at the time of our visit was still
relatively new but coming on nicely.
In my own personal experience,
inspiration is more often than not drawn
from the display aquarium in a fish shop.
Not to take anything away from this
display, but for me, on this occasion,
it was actually when I stepped into
the livestock area that I got excited. I
challenge anyone to enter the livestock
area at The Abyss for the first time, and
not say the word ‘wow’ out loud!
20/08/2012 20:42:03
Extremely rare Australian Flat Head
Perch (Rainfordia opercularis), in
stock at The Abyss, Stockport, with
a price tag of £5,000.
Image courtesy of The Abyss.
The first section is tropical, and I have to
admit I scanned over this because I was
eager to see what the marine tanks had to
offer. Using a combination of a completely
black room and very brightly coloured
artificial plants in each tank, along with
very healthy-looking bright fish, the impact
was nothing short of impressive. I could talk
all day about what I found when I walked
around and studied the tanks, and also
about the fantastic conversations held
with staff members and Mark (co-owner),
but I have limited space available.
One comment I would like to make
about The Abyss is this; if you want
something really special on the fish front,
then this is a place well worth visiting.
All the usual species are available, but
in addition, rare species are on offer. I
will use the Australian Flat Head Perch
(Rainfordia opercularis) as an example.
This fish is exceptionally rare, with only
three or four in captivity in the world,
and it comes with a price tag of no less
than £5,000 (no, this is not a misprint).
Some of the fish in the neighbouring
tanks included a Gem Tang at £3,200
and a £750 Joculator Angel Fish. A final
mention is a new unnamed species of
Big Eye Catalufa (Pristigenys meyeri)
at £975. Again, this fish is super-rare,
and it lives in the very, very deep
waters of the Indo West Pacific Ocean
(in the region of 2,500ft deep). From
Fish shops around the country are struggling to fight their
internet competitors (who don’t have the same costs re
maintaining livestock tanks), and if each of us does our bit to
support our local shops, overall it could help save the hobby
Unnamed species of Big
Eye Catalufa.
Image courtesy of The Abyss.
what I can gather, this is, in fact, the
only living specimen to have ever
been displayed in a captive tank.
A FINAL WORD
I would like to summarise my experience
by suggesting that if you live in
Manchester or the surrounding areas,
you are very lucky to have shops of
this standard on your doorstep. If you
don’t, then it is well worth a visit for the
day. What was fascinating about the
four shops we visited was how different
they were from each other – it was
fantastic to see relatively local shops
finding their own space in the market.
I would also like to take a moment to
stress the importance of local fish shops
for the hobby and the industry. The costs
involved in holding large quantities of
livestock are substantial, and this can only
be sustained if hobbyists show support
for these shops. There is no escape from
the world of the Internet, and no denying
that in a difficult financial climate, price
does matter. However, without wanting to
preach, it is worth considering the bigger
picture. Fish shops around the country
are struggling to fight their Internet
competitors (who don’t have the same
costs re maintaining livestock tanks), and
if each of us does our bit to support our
local shops, overall it could help save
the hobby. After all, online Internet shops
are great for dry goods, but dry goods
aren’t much good without fish and corals.
It was a thoroughly enjoyable day
trip for all three of us, and hopefully
you’ve enjoyed reading about it.
Thank you to all the people we
met, for taking the time to speak
to us and show us round.
Dave Pitt.
20/08/2012 20:42:07
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049_MHWebAd_MH004.indd 1
20/08/2012 04:21:31
Biorock
Project
The
Patrick Blanche ventures to the Pemuteran
area of Bali where he sees first-hand how
the locals are building new reefs where
old reefs once grew naturally.
S
PATRICK BLANCHE
Age: 44.
Hometown:
Paris, France.
Full-time occupation:
Photojournalist.
Marine experience:
5yrs.
Favourite
fish: Clownfish/Mola Mola.
coral: Soft Coral Tree Fan.
other: Staghorn
(Acropora cervicornis).
Specialist areas:
Togians Island, North
Sulawesi/Nusa Lembonga,
Bali/Surin islands, Thaïland.
ubmerged in tropical waters,
the coral reefs are disappearing
at a worrying rate. Intensive
fishing, illegal fishing with dynamite
and cyanide, water pollution, global
warming, the acidification of the
oceans, the disruption of food chains,
mass tourism – the list of assaults on
these fragile ecosystems does not
cease. An architect, Wolf Hilbertz,
invented the Biorock technology,
with his partner Tom Goreau, an
internationally renowned marine
scientist, and they have constructed
many reefs worldwide. In Bali I went
to the small village of Pemuteran
to see the biggest project in the
world, which is a real success.
In the small fishing village of Pemuteran,
located northwest of Bali, Indonesia,
a surprising show can be observed.
When I swam there with my mask and
my snorkel, just 50m from the
013-016_CoralReefsP4_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 00:17:36
The Biorock Project > Patrick Blanche
Once the coral takes over the
Biorock, it creates a fantastic
habitat which in turn will help
establish a new reef system.
Biorock artificial reefs come
in all kinds of shapes: giant
fish, plane, car, etc.
A marine scientist explores
the reef around the
Pemuteran area in Bali.
Biorock reefs for growing
corals and providing new fish
habitats; Pemuteran area, Bali.
20/08/2012 00:17:47
Above is a reef building plan of the Biorock placements in the Pemuteran area of Bali.
The Biorock project system explained, using a
small model to make tourists aware of the risk.
The manager of the Biorock office in Pemuteran,
Bali, explaining the project and its placement.
beach, I suddenly saw dozens of massive
system was invented by an American
metal boxes called Biorock; it looked like
oceanographer, Mr Thomas Goreau, and
a kid’s playground. These underwater
a German architect, Mr Wolf Hilbertz, and
constructions come in all kinds of shapes
was first exploited in St Maarten, Jamaica.
and sizes – a 12m giant fish, a giant
A current is provided to the Biorock structure
ball, a 17m bicycle – and each of them
by two electrodes that supply low-voltage
was effectively covered with coral.
direct current, causing minerals in the
In this part of Pemuteran, locals used
seawater to precipitate onto the steel
to fish with dynamite and cyanide, and
frames. The result is that the steel frame
they killed all the coral.
limestone is the basis
The explosives are
Fishing with explosives is
for coral growth. Once
the most destructive fishing
generally thrown onto the limestone accretion
method for coral reefs. The
itself, pieces
the reefs and explode establishes
explosives are generally
of coral harvested from
near the surface. The coral nurseries (or broken
thrown onto the reefs and
explode near the surface.
resulting shockwaves off from wave action
The resulting shockwaves kill
kill the majority of fish or blasting) are then
the majority of fish species
attached to the structures,
species and cause where they are quickly
and cause enormous
enormous damage cemented into place
damage to the reef’s
structure. An agricultural
to the reef’s structure by the accumulating
fertiliser in a simple glass
limestone. With this
bottle is used as an explosive; the fuse
method, the transplanted corals grow as
is ignited and the bottle thrown from the
much as four times faster than usual, and it
boat towards the located shoal of fish. The
supplies the same natural material as coral
explosion kills the fish within a 50m radius,
skeletons, on which baby corals settle.
and at the same time causes considerable
The Biorock process provides the only
damage to the coral. The dead fish float
marine construction material that gets
to the surface and then they just have to
stronger with age. It is designed to create
be gathered in. Many accidents have
denser and more varied hiding places
occurred using this method, resulting in
for fishes than even a natural reef, and
the loss of the thrower’s arm or leg.
to rapidly build up large and diverse
To respond to the challenge of recovering fish populations. The corals grow faster,
a full coral reef, the Biorock technology
withstand stress up to 50 times
20/08/2012 00:18:01
Biorock reefs are also wave
breakers to stop erosion
and preserve the beach;
Pemuteran area, Bali.
Coral growing on a
Japanese plane sunk
during WWII; Amed, Bali.
A fish lost in the middle
of a vast coral area
that was destroyed by
dynamite fishing.
education in sustainable development.
more, and can recover from physical
In June 2000, the first Biorock cage was
damage, and the corals spontaneously
deposed in Pemuteran. Local fishermen
settle on these reefs. They can also turn
and international tourism
severely eroding beaches
Today there are more industry staff members
into growing beaches
within a few years. In a
than 56 Biorock coral (divers’ clubs and hotels
staff) worked together for
world where water quality
nursery structures
this project, supervised by
is steadily deteriorating
in the Pemuteran
marine scientists. They built
from out of control global
warming and pollution,
coastal village, with a 12m structure and the
crew swam 100m out to
the Biorock reefs survive
a total length of
sea with it, released it from
stresses that kill all the
500m situated in an the floats, and let it settle
corals on conventional
on the sandy bottom.
artificial reefs, and cost
area of 2 hectares
Today there are more
far less. By applying
than 56 Biorock coral nursery structures in
best practices, tourism can be a
the Pemuteran coastal village, with a total
leader in environmental protection
length of 500m situated in an area of 2
and restoration, as well as community
National and international
gratitude for all the hard
work to save our reefs with
this vital project.
hectares. This is the largest Biorock coral reef
nursery and restoration project worldwide.
More than 80% of the reefs in southeast
Asia are at risk, mainly because of coastal
development and pressures linked to the
exploitation of resources. The 600,000km2
of coral reefs in the world are destined to
disappear by 2050 if nothing is done to
counter this decline. The coral reefs are a
major source of food for millions of people
in the world. Unfortunately, their fish reserves,
which are under attack and poisoned, are
overexploited. In Indonesia, for example,
82% of the reefs are threatened by the
illegal practice of fishing with explosives
and cyanide. The populations living
on the coasts are the first to suffer the
consequences; 120 million Indonesians
depend on the sea and its resources.
The first step to mass extinction in the
oceans is under way. If nothing is done
in the years to come, this biodiverse-rich
ecosystem will disappear and there will
be inevitably tragic consequences for the
littoral populations whose survival depend
on it. Already today we can see the
consequences of the rising water levels on
the isolated islands of the Indian and Pacific
oceans, and the first climatic refugees
are demanding a place to resettle. The
practically programmed disappearance
of coral by 2050 will engender a
disastrous humanitarian situation. The
disruption of the marine ecosystem will
also cause a rupture in the food chain
and some species will be condemned
to death. Only profound modifications in
our behaviour towards nature, and the
adoption of a new global vision, can
forestall this announced disaster. PB
20/08/2012 00:18:12
EXPERT
A D V I C E
I N
T H I S
18
I S S U E
Welcome to Expert Advice – in each issue we
invite a panel of the industry’s best experts
to answer your troubling questions, and give
you sound advice on how to tackle them.
Mike explains why
copper is used, and
offers extra advice
on how to help keep
away unwanted
parasites.
Wayne answers a
reader’s question
about the various
ways salinity can be
measured and the
best tools to use.
19
20
21
22
A BIT ABOUT MIKE
Mike Brunskill has been a
fish house assistant at TMC
for nearly 2 years, with his
passion for working with
marine life reaching its 8th
year. Mike shows particular
interest in Dwarf Parrots
and Flasher Wrasses, with
species identification in this
area being his speciality.
Mike intends to further
progress in identification
by gaining his scuba
diving qualification.
A BIT ABOUT WAYNE
Wayne Oxborough is
a geologist based in
Norway. He has 8 years
experience with marine
aquaria (though more
with freshwater) but
remembers them from
‘when they were hard’. His
current tank is a 600-litre
mixed reef, and while he’s
interested in the technical
aspects of the hobby, his
motto is K.I.S.S.
A BIT ABOUT NICK
Nick Bryan is based at
the University of Liverpool,
in the division of Clinical
Engineering. His research
focuses on predicting
the immune response
to implantable devices,
and he specialises in
aquatic chemistry and
molecular biology. He
currently maintains a 300L
tank, and has 12 years
of marine experience.
A BIT ABOUT BEN
Ben Woodward has been
a hobbyist since the age
of 8. He is the director
of Fishkeeping.EU, who
install some of the most
beautiful aquariums and
water features in the
country. He has studied
marine and freshwater
biology at Aberystwyth
University, and he has
a BSc (Hons) in
aquaculture and
fishery management.
A BIT ABOUT MARK
Mark Wilson has spent
20 years at the forefront
of marine ornamental
aquaculture, pioneering
and developing
technology and
techniques for commercial
fish breeding and larval
rearing. Mark is the founder
and technical director
of New Era Aquaculture,
a premium producer
of marine, tropical and
coldwater fish food.
Nick explains
how important
evaporation is in the
home aquarium.
Ben discusses
whether there is such
a thing as established
tank water.
Do fish get bored
of the same food?
Should you feed your
fish a varied diet?
Mark gives advice
on how to feed your
fish the right food.
™
GOT A QUESTION?
Our expert panel can help solve any queries you may have, so send in your questions to
Fish Junkies Ltd., PO BOX 4838, Sheffield S12 9DU, or alternatively email: [email protected]
017-022_Experts_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 03:18:46
™
www.tropicalmarinecentre.co.uk
Hi, my local fish shop tells me that they purchase their livestock from TMC, but I’ve heard people
make reference to TMC using copper in their systems. What exactly does this mean? Is it a problem,
once acclimatised, to pour the water from the bag with the fish in into my system?
Many thanks,
Kevin Rodgers, Manchester.
Hello Kevin,
Here at TMC we go to great lengths to
ethically source our livestock from quality
suppliers around the world, making sure
that the highest environmental and welfare
standards are met, both in the collection
and transportation process. Once livestock
arrives at any of our holding facilities, they
are gently acclimatised and housed in
separate systems for fish and invertebrates.
As copper is toxic to invertebrates, having
these separate systems allows us to add
a copper treatment to the fish system.
Using copper is an effective method of
control against the free-swimming stages
of marine parasites such as
and Cryptocaryon irritans, more
aquarium. We use UV sterilizers and ozone
commonly known as Velvet and White Spot
generators on both our fish and invertebrate
(Ich) respectively. Unfortunately, even with
systems, and since I can assume you are
our careful collection and acclimation
keeping both fish and invertebrates in your
methods, a certain amount of stress to
aquarium at home, these methods will
the livestock is unavoidable. This stress can
be much more relevant to you because
have a negative effect on the immune
they are safe with invertebrates.
system of the fish, and as a result outbreaks
TMC’s UV sterilizers – the
of disease can occur. It
V2ecton range – are
is for this reason that we
stress can have a
maintain a level of copper
negative effect on available in five different
sizes for tanks up to 600
in the fish system, and we
the immune system litres. These UV sterilizers kill
carry out regular testing
and dosing to ensure
of the fish, and as a bacterial, parasitic, fungal,
viral and algae pathogens,
the correct level (0.15result outbreaks of so they are of great benefit
0.20mg/l) is maintained.
disease can occur to both hobbyists and
Certain fish species
commercial fishkeepers, as
are more sensitive to
well as being easy to install and maintain.
copper than others, so it has to be used
Changing the bulb every 6 months and
with caution and added gradually.
making sure the quartz sleeve is clean is
Sharks and rays (and some angelfish
really all you need to do, and will help to
species) are particularly sensitive, and
put your mind at rest when admiring your
it is not recommended to use copper
newly acquired tang or angelfish. Ozonisers,
in aquariums containing these fish.
such as our V2Ozone unit, can help to
You should also be aware that as well
not only keep your water looking crystalas the use of copper, there are other ways
clear, but also to suppress any parasitic,
to help prevent outbreaks of disease in an
bacterial or fungal activity, which provides
a healthier environment for your livestock.
As far as pouring the water from the
bag of your newly purchased fish into your
aquarium, you may first want to ask your
local fish shop whether or not they treat
their own system with copper. Although
the amount of copper contained in the
relatively small amount of water in the bag
would be minimal, I would personally avoid
pouring it into the aquarium. The reasons for
this are that any possible copper contained
in the water would be harmful to any
inverts in your tank, and also that the water
may contain high levels of nitrates and/
or phosphates. My preferred method of
acclimation when taking a new fish home
is to pour the water and fish into a plastic
container, such as a bucket, and using
some 6mm airline and a valve or clamp,
slowly drip water from the aquarium into the
container. This is a much more gradual way
of equalising the difference in parameters
between the store’s water and your home
aquarium. Once the water in the container
is mostly aquarium water, you can then
net the fish from the bucket and place it
gently into your aquarium. Turning off the
aquarium lights during this time is also a
good idea, and you could even use one
of our AquaRay AquaRED Flexi LED Strips for
this acclimation process (TMC acclimates
all its new arrivals under red lighting to limit
stress). I hope this clears up any doubts you
may have had about the use of copper.
Mike Brunskill,
Fish House Assistant, TMC Manchester.
For further information about any
of TMC’s products, please go to
www.tropicalmarinecentre.co.uk
™
20/08/2012 03:18:48
www.ultimatereef.com
Hello, I am new to the hobby, and I am totally confused with the
different ways of measuring salinity. What is the most accurate method
for measuring it?
James Milner, Essex.
Hi James,
Measuring salinity accurately can be tricky.
Unlike things like calcium, salinity can’t easily
be measured directly. Drying out tank water
and then measuring the amount of residue
is not very practical. Because of this difficulty,
the definition of reference seawater salinity
is not defined in ppt of dissolved ions, but
rather is conductivity measured relative to
a standard Kcl solution. Instead, salinity is
measured indirectly either with a hydrometer
(measuring density), a refractometer
(refractive index, reliant on density), or with a
conductivity meter. Each of these methods
has its own pros and cons. Historically, the
most common way to measure salinity
was with a hydrometer, giving a result in
specific gravity (SG), a ratio of the seawater’s
density to that of pure water. It’s still a
reliable method, with accurate hydrometers
available for a decent price, but:
a) SG is temperature dependent. As things
cool, they become more dense, but pure
water is comparatively unaffected so the SG
varies. As SG is measured, we then need to
convert that to salinity using a temperature
corrected table. As an example, an SG
of 1.025, a common target SG, at 23°C
is worth 32.30 ppt, but at 30°C it would be
worth 35.57ppt. A good hydrometer normally
has a scale converting the SG to salinity, but
it will also have the calibration temperature
noted, and if the tank water temperature is
rather different, a correction is required.
Refractometers are
commonly used by
most hobbyists.
device on seawater causes a progressive
b) Hydrometer accuracy requires a quality
overestimation of salinity by approximately
tool; these are available for tens of pounds,
4%, so that by the time the device is
although they’re difficult to use properly. The
reading 35ppt, the real salinity is 33.5ppt.
most common hydrometers in the hobby
The quick-fix is to aim for
are the cheap swing
Remember that
36.5 ppt, but obviously
arm-types. These have
you need to know
temperature affects
a reputation for being
horribly inaccurate and
density, and thus RI, but whether it was scaled
with brine or seawater
inconsistent. The device
in the normal range of
in the first place. There
must rest on a perfectly
is also the issue of
horizontal surface
temperatures we deal
device accuracy. If the
when being read.
with, the error is again
device is calibrated
Next there is the
very small compared to with RO then an error
refractometer; these
are commonly
the precision of the tool may have crept in by
the time a salinity of
perceived as being
35ppt is reached. Typically this is considered
more accurate than hydrometers, which
acceptable to be +/- 1ppt (or .001 SG),
may or may not be true. Many find they get
but larger errors are seen. This can be
better results with these than with cheap
avoided by calibrating the device with a
hydrometers, but an expensive hydrometer,
35ppt reference solution at least once.
such as the TMC High Precision, is more
Most refractometers come with autoaccurate than a cheap refractometer,
temperature compensation. This refers
although less convenient to use properly.
only to the difference in temperature
There are several sources of error with
between the unit and the sample,
refractometers. The first is with the scaling of
but cannot rescale the device to
the tool. Refractometers measure refractive
compensate for the temperature at
index, which then needs to be converted
the time of testing. Remember that
to salinity. The absolute numbers and the
temperature affects density, and thus RI,
correlation are somewhat dependent on
but in the normal range of temperatures
temperature, but also on the composition of
we deal with, the error is again very small
the fluid, whether it’s seawater or something
compared to the precision of the tool.
else. Many of the devices sold have not
The final method of testing salinity is with a
been scaled using seawater, but rather
conductivity meter, measuring the resistance
with brine, and the optical properties are
of the water. This is also temperature sensitive,
similar but not the same. Using a brine scale
but the most common meters contain
automatic temperature measurement and
correction. They’re rather more expensive
than hydrometers and refractometers, and
require frequent calibration, but are quick
and easy to use, and an excellent choice.
For comparable accuracy they are rather
cheaper than a high-resolution hydrometer,
and as I said before, conductivity is now
the measurement of choice for the
definition of standard seawater salinity.
Ultimately, almost all the animals we
keep aren’t so sensitive as to be harmed
by not keeping them at a salinity specific
to +/-1ppt. It is, however, good to know
we have a reliable measurement
and not a fundamental problem
when trying to match conditions and
values for major ions like calcium.
Wayne Oxborough,
Norway, Ultimate Reef.
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20/08/2012 03:18:51
Hi Marine Habitat,
I have had my marine tank for a few months now and my water seems to be
evaporating quite a lot. I know I should top up with RO water, but long term,
do you think I should cover my tank up to reduce evaporation? Is evaporation
important and is it required in a marine aquarium?
Thanks for your help,
Josh Newman, Stockport.
Hey Josh,
Evaporation is definitely something that we
need to be mindful of in marine aquaria.
When water evaporates from the
aquarium, the solutes stay in the system
but the water is removed. What this means
is that as water evaporates, the specific
gravity (SG) of the aquarium increases
because there is the same amount
of salt in a smaller volume of water.
These rapid fluctuations in SG can
be detrimental to stock, particularly
invertebrates, because their cells and
physiology as a whole must constantly
adapt to these external changes.
Anemones particularly are at risk from
SG swings, and as a result, the more
stable the SG, the more success
and growth we can expect from our
inhabitants. That said, some intertidal
animals are very well adapted to deal
with SG swings; imagine a rock pool
niche in which a heavy downpour
can quickly cause SG to decrease.
Evaporation is not something that
necessarily benefits an aquarium. It doesn’t
play any sort of role in a system’s nutrient
export, nor does it replenish any sort of
essential substances. Therefore, preventing
water loss by covering the display
tank using glass or plastic, onto which
Certain animals, such as this
bubble tipped anemone, are
the aquarium inhabitants most
likely to feel the effects from
the swings in specific gravity
caused by evaporation.
with a sheet of already hot glass directly
evaporated water condenses and simply
above the water. This may only become
drips back into the system, is something that
apparent when stock begins to look
aquarists have been doing for decades.
unhappy during the summer months.
However, marine aquaria require the best
Covering a display tank
possible gas exchange
marine aquaria require to prevent evaporation
available, and often this
isn’t something I
is reduced by covering
the best possible
generally recommend.
a system. A cover sheet
gas exchange
Water loss through
traps a layer of static
air immediately over
available, and often evaporation occurs
through the sump,
the aquarium water,
this is reduced by
in addition to the
reducing the capacity
covering a system
display tank. If you
for atmospheric oxygen
do feel the need
to diffuse into the
to offset a portion of the evaporation,
aquarium through the surface and carbon
covering the sump is a better bet
dioxide to be removed. The other factor
than covering the display tank.
to bear in mind is the reduction in light
Evaporation can easily be offset
efficiency from over-tank lighting because it
manually by additions of freshwater to the
has to pass through the cover sheet before
system several times throughout the day.
entering the system. Cover glass also gets
Even better is the use of an automatic topvery hot under lights and may
up, which will dose water into the system,
cause heat dissipation
based on a float switch turning on a pump
problems; a lot of
to dispense freshwater into the system from
heat is lost through
a storage reservoir when the aquarium
the aquarium
water level drops below a preset point.
surface, which is
Remember – water added to
very difficult
compensate for evaporation must
be unsalted. Adding salted water in
place of the freshwater lost as a result
of evaporation causes the SG of the
system to rapidly rise dangerously high.
TMC manufacture an auto top-up system that has two
float switches. This unit will aid in maintaining a stable SG.
Nick Bryan.
Don’t forget to check out our website for regular updates,
with the latest news, mini articles, interesting video links and
extended magazine articles: www.marinehabitatmagazine.com
20/08/2012 03:18:55
www.fishkeeping.eu
When moving from one tank to another, is there any benefit in using the water from the old
established system over and above new freshly mixed saltwater? I understand the benefits of
using live rock and live sand, and the need to cycle a new system, but I wonder if the water
itself is considered ‘live’ or ‘established’ in any way?
Many thanks,
Joan Fredrick, Oxford.
Dear Joan,
Thanks for the question. My company gets
involved with moving systems all the time,
from small home aquariums to multiple
tonnes of fish at a time in aquaculture
systems. I can think of three recent
aquarium examples where I have had to
make the decision as to how much existing
‘old’ water to move to a new system.
Case Study:
1) A client of mine decided to update her
180-litre aquarium. I feel the importance
of keeping mature water is not only for the
fish but mainly for the bacteria in the filters.
Because the old filter medium fitted into
the new sump, we moved all the water
and the filter medium across, along with
the fish. The system was a fairly clean tank
and we were very careful not to disturb
the substrate. This is the ideal scenario for
moving everything in one motion; the fish
were fine and the bacteria in the filtration
media were relatively unaffected.
2) Another client had a modest 200-litre
aquarium and was installing a monster
3,000-litre stingray aquarium in the
basement. The fish in the existing aquarium
were compatible with the fish he wanted
to keep in the future, so they would be
moved as well. I am sure you can imagine
how insignificant 200 litres becomes in
a 3,000-litre system, so we decided we
tell my clients to pretend the bacteria in the
would start the aquarium from scratch and
filter is like a sensitive fish; I keep stressing
gradually introduce the client’s existing
this because if you can successfully move
fish. The media could not be moved over
the filtration media without killing off too
because we had installed a pressurised
much of the bacteria
closed loop instead of
the early days of
a sump. We added the
I can think of three then
the new aquarium will
existing fish over a 4-week
recent aquarium
be better in terms of
period, and because of
water quality. If you were
the strict feeding regime
examples where I
to use new water and
there was no significant
have had to make move anything that is
nitrogenous waste build-up.
the decision as to
considered biological
3) A year or so ago I came
how much existing filtration straight
into it, it’s almost as
across a client with a
‘old’ water to move detrimental as washing
200-litre aquarium moving
the media directly
to a 400-litre one. I tested
to a new system
under tap water; a
the water and performed
lot of it will die off and the aquarium
all the usual checks. It was a lightly stocked
is likely to have water quality issues.
fish-only system with external pressurised
My recommendation is to first test the
filters; we used the existing 200 litres to fill the
tank halfway, and over the course of 2 weeks water quality of the ‘old’ water for all the
fundamental parameters. If the water
we gradually filled up the tank with new
quality is good then use it in the new
saltwater. This was only possible because
system and move the media with it, but
the filtration worked with the aquarium
for obvious reasons, if the ‘old’ water
half full – a sump system would not
could be detrimental to fish
have been able to do this.
health, with levels such as
ammonia or unstable
Conclusion
pH (check the KH –
I feel that you must
carbonate hardness),
first weigh up the
then it may be better
importance of the
to start again. So,
filtration bacteria vs
just to reiterate this
the fundamental
– use the old water
water quality. I always
if the water quality
is deemed to be
good; make sure
it is well-oxygenated
and test the KH to
pre-empt a possible pH
crash in the near future. In
emergency situations, for instance
a burst pipe or a leaking aquarium, it
may be the only option to use new water
because a lot of the mature water has
been lost. If one is forced to use a lot of
new water, it is imperative to cut down
the feeding to as little as possible to
give the nitrifying bacteria a chance to
re-establish itself before a water quality
issue such as an ammonia spike occurs.
We installed this stunning 19mm solid
walnut aquarium (2,000 litres), and it
needed all new water, so we gradually
built up the stock density.
Happy fishkeeping,
Ben Woodward.
Fishkeeping.EU aquatic consultants and developers are based
in Sussex, UK. For more information on the services offered, or
to see a portfolio of projects, visit www.fishkeeping.eu
20/08/2012 03:18:57
www.new-era-aquaculture.com
Hi, I am told that feeding a varied diet to my fish is the best approach,
and the more variation the better, but could you offer any input on how
accurate this is, and why?
Mahmoud Khan, Bradford.
Hi Mahmoud,
Thank you for your question on the subject
of nutritional variation. It is one that is
frequently asked, not only by newcomers
to fishkeeping, but also by seasoned
aquarists, who are constantly trying to
improve the diets of their fish. In our daily
lives we are constantly reminded that
we must vary our diet to remain healthy.
Taking that same principle, many aquarists
feed a variety of foods to their fishes in
the hope that they are providing them
with improved nutrition. Many people also
believe that a varied diet will stop the fish
becoming bored of the same food and
see it as a treat for their animals. However,
before we consider these principles, let’s
go back a step and consider the life of
a fish on a coral reef. The reef is a hostile
environment and one of pure survival.
the combinations and
variety of edible species
within a pellet or flake
can be endless and
are the foundation for
optimum nutrition
It is a place where the competition for
food is high and every calorie counts.
In this situation, we have to ask if the
fishes make choices as to what they
eat, or do they take advantage of what
comes along when the opportunity of a
meal arises? On this basis, in a situation
when they’re hungry and something
Feed your fish the correct
diet and you will be
rewarded with beautiful
healthy-looking specimens.
edible presents itself, it will be eaten.
Because of this, the variety of food can
be wide and varied, but the choices are
limited to only two – consume or reject.
With the exception of specialist target
feeders, we can say that a wide variety
of food is a positive advantage. But we
must also ask that within such a hostile
environment, do fishes suffer nutritional
boredom? It is arguable that boredom
is a luxury, one that has no role in
survival conditions on a coral reef.
For aquarists the fundamental principles
of feeding fish are to maintain health,
vitality and colour by providing highquality nutrition. The concept of treats
is purely a human intervention that has
no equivalent in nature. Treats merely
satisfy the aquarist’s anthropomorphic
desire without contributing anything to
the fish. Specialist food manufacturers
recognise the importance of nutritional
variation and use components such as
fish, squid, shrimp, mussel, and krill to
maximise the nutritional potential this
provides. In fact, the combinations and
variety of edible species within a pellet
or flake can be endless and are the
foundation for optimum nutrition. The
New Era Aegis flake and pellet diets are
a very good example of this capability
to add beneficial ingredients into
already advantageous product formulas.
Carefully designed diets that present
the right texture and palatability make
the choice for the fish a simple one.
Mark Wilson,
New Era Aquaculture Ltd.
New Era produce premium-quality fish feeds for
home hobbyists and public aquarium markets.
Visit at: www.new-era-aquaculture.com
20/08/2012 03:19:01
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
MY
K
2
9
7
20/08/2012 04:24:02
Lighting – How it works > Mike Maddox
© Michael Ludwig | Dreamstime.com
024-027_UnderwaterP2_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 01:23:02
Try Dive
As You
MY UNDERWATER EXPERIENCE – PART TWO
In this issue, Neil Harris goes one step further under
the water when he decides to give scuba diving a
go. Neil takes us through his experiences, and how
the Red Sea visit made such an impact that it came
to be a major part of his life.
S
NEIL HARRIS
Age: 29.
Hometown:
Leicester.
Occupation:
IT Manager.
Marine experience:
4 years.
Tank size:
205 litres
(45 imperial gallons).
Favourite
fish: Raccoon Butterflyfish.
coral: Blue Polyp Montipora.
other: Coral Crab.
EDITOR’S NOTE
Due to the unfortunate experience
Neil had on this visit, he didn’t
capture any photographs. To help
visualise this article, images were
used from stock databases.
Rest assured, next time Neil found
his confidence and has some
amazing pictures to share.
underwater communication (through
ince that first dip into the ocean
hand gestures) and practices required for
in 2007, I decided that I wanted
a safe dive. Once sufficiently prepped, I
to learn scuba diving in order
sat on the edge of the pool with various
to appreciate more than the tip of the
hoses, mouthpieces, and what seemed
marine iceberg I’d uncovered in Egypt.
like rucksacks, in every direction. My
Luckily, a local BSAC (British Sub Aqua
instructor for the evening concisely
Club) dive school had advertised a tryexplained the main parts and how their
dive session for £10 in the local papers,
use would aid my underwater journey.
and because it was just a tenner, I
Fins – check! Weights – check! BCD
thought there was nothing to lose.
– check! Regulator
For those unfamiliar with
dive clubs, there are two
I decided that I wanted – check! And finally,
– check! Here I
main bodies that certify
to learn scuba diving mask
was again – about to
divers in the UK: PADI and
in order to appreciate take that first breath
BSAC. They are similar to
one another, although
more than the tip of underwater, and yes,
same anxieties were
the latter is a British club,
the marine iceberg I’d the
there. The instructor gave
whilst the former is an
uncovered in Egypt me the thumbs-down (no
international operation.
he wasn’t disappointed
Both offer certification for
in me, he was telling
the minimum requirements
me we were going down), and slowly
to be able to dive without the aid of an
the water rose over my mouth and up
instructor to a depth of around 18 metres.
over the mask. I breathed in, and after a
My first experience was nowhere near
split-second pause the negative pressure
that deep; our local swimming pool only
in my lungs forced open the valve on
managed the rather shallow depths of
the regulator in my mouth and supplied
2.7m, though it was still enough for me to
me with air. This was quite without the
get my fins wet. The session itself consisted
drama of the first snorkelling breath I
of a brief overview of how BSAC works and
took, and I’d even go as far as to say
how their certification process is different
it was easier than snorkelling. First of all
to that offered in resorts advertising a
we did some buoyancy skills tests, so my
4-5 day course, and it’s aimed at being
BCD jacket was filled with just enough
more than just teaching skills for the sole
air to keep me from either sinking or
aim of obtaining a piece of paper. There
floating to the surface. Soon enough
was also a safety tutorial illustrating basic
20/08/2012 01:23:03
My Underwater Experience – Part 2 > Neil Harris
Scrawled Filefish (Aluterus scriptus)
swimming over a colourful coral
reef - Cozumel, Mexico.
© Brian Lasenby | Dreamstime.com
© Michael Ludwig | Dreamstime.com
© Vilainecrevette | Dreamstime.com
20/08/2012 01:23:06
My Underwater Experience – Part 2 > Neil Harris
Coral reef with school of
Grunts and Brown Chromises Cozumel, Mexico.
© Brian Lasenby | Dreamstime.com
the coral and fish I saw down there. What I
we were doing laps under swimmers
can remember though, is swimming by a
in the pool, and before I knew it, we
fan coral and out popped a large puffer
were heading back to the surface – the
– my favourite! Then the unfortunate part
40 minutes or so were already over.
– I got rather excited and took in a large
Because I’d had such a positive
amount of air (not dissimilar to a puffer!),
experience with the guys from the BSAC, I
which made me more buoyant, which,
was even more convinced that I wanted
in turn, made the air in my BCD expand
to become qualified, so I started to trawl
more, making me even more buoyant.
the Internet for PADI and BSAC courses.
Now, using the knowledge I had gained
However, this was mid-winter in England,
from the classroom
and there was no way I
...whilst there wasn’t lessons, I tipped my head
was going to complete
my qualification without
the initial wow of my up and tried to release
air from my BCD, but
the aid of a dry-suit
first snorkelling and
the valve had stuck so it
and a stiff upper lip,
scuba experiences, wouldn’t release. Try as I
so I searched further
might to swim back down,
afield. This time the
there were more
I was surface-bound.
holiday destination was
corals, more fish,
There I was, bobbing
Mexico and the diveand my interest was around on the surface,
friendly area of Playa del
captured once again and worryingly, none
Carmen. I’d deliberately
of the instructors had
picked a hotel with a
noticed my ordeal. At the time this rocked
5-star PADI dive centre close by, so we
me heavily, and saddened by this, I pulled
could pick up our PADI Open Water
out of the course and attempted to enjoy
(OW) qualification whilst out there – plus
my holiday while my mate was off diving.
it was an excuse to take a 2-week trip
Needless to say, I thought snorkelling
and we’d be spending time in the
was the better option for me at this point.
classroom and less time on the beach!
All PADI OW courses consist of theoretical Somewhat surprisingly though, it hadn’t put
me off getting my feet wet, and 6 months
classroom work, pool-based confinedlater I was back in Sharm doing what I
water dives to practice skills, and a couple
knew best. I realised I had to get back on
of proper open-water dives to finalise
the horse, as it were, and where better
the work. Our classroom sessions were
than somewhere I’d been before and felt
more common sense than taxing PhD
confident with. I’d picked a different area
standard material, which was reassuring
of Sharm, with better house reefs, and
– more a case of “yeah, that makes
whilst there wasn’t the initial wow of my
sense”, as opposed to “I would never
first snorkelling and scuba experiences,
have assumed…”, etc. The pool sessions
there were more corals, more fish, and my
were obviously more hands-on because
interest was captured once again. NH
we learnt how to set up and maintain
our own equipment. As our knowledge
increased, so did our confidence, and it
soon came around to the first of two OW
dives. All went well as we descended to
a depth of 9m. Buoyancy exercises out
of the way, our group of eight or so went
In the final instalment, Neil has a close
exploring the depths of the Caribbean
encounter with a jelly, waves a 5ft reef shark
Sea. Unfortunately, due to the following
by, and watches acrobatic mantas in the
experience, I can’t remember much of
Maldives. It’s certainly one not to be missed.
NEXT TIME
20/08/2012 01:23:10
TOPTANKS
Brought to you by reef-face.co.uk
WINNER
REEF JAZZ
Hiya guys, my name is Emma and this
is my Kent marine bio reef. The tank
has been up and running for about 8
months now, and was an upgrade from
my first 40L Superfish Nano. I changed
the Interpet 50/50 bulbs to D-D Cube
50/50 bulbs, and changed the daylight
to Arcadia Daylight because I found
they give a much better colour to the
tank and corals. Most of the filtration
comes from my live rock, but I also
use Purigen and have just started using
Chem-pure, which I run in the second
of the four back compartments; this
nicely hides everything out of view of
the main tank. My first chamber has a
200W heater, the second is media, the
third is my Kent Marine Nano Skimmer,
and the fourth is my outlet pipes, which
run from a 1,000-litre per hour circulation
pump. I also have a 2,000-litre per hour
wavemaker.
TANK STATS
TANK DIMENSIONS:
W19ins x H22ins x D20ins.
MAIN DISPLAY WATER VOLUME: 94ltres.
SUMP VOLUME: No sump.
LIGHTING: Two 36W T5 power compacts,
one 50/50 and one daylight lighting, six
white LEDs and four blue LEDs.
FAVOURITE…
FISH: Clownfish.
CORAL: Torch Coral.
OTHER: anything reef-related.
3rd
2nd
CARL’S RIO DREAM
I have been keeping fish for 38
years (3 years marine). I had no
room for a sump, so I got the
biggest external I could, in this
case a Fluval FX5, which holds
around 20ltrs, and bought a
Deltec MCE300 skimmer. I also
replaced the standard lighting
with a six-tube luminaire.
I have progressed through
the soft coral phase, just
keeping mainly zoas and
a few mushrooms. Now I’m
moving on to harder corals,
and currently have Duncans,
Torch, Hammer, War Corals
and a Favia colony, as well as
a couple of SPS, Pink Hystrix and
Plating Montipora.
At the moment the tank is
Our regular Top Tanks spot features three
of the best hobbyist tanks, brought to you
by Reef-Face forum. In each issue, the top
three entries from the online competition are
published in Marine Habitat.
very much work in progress until
I am happy with how it looks,
which may be never!
TANK STATS
TANK DIMENSIONS:
MAIN DISPLAY WATER VOLUME:
180ltres.
EXTERNAL FILTER VOLUME:
20ltres (2,700 lph).
LIGHTING: Three 39W ATI
Aquaspeziale, three 39W ATI
Blue Plus, luminaire on tank feet.
FAVOURITE...
FISH: Achilles Tang.
CORAL: Euphyllias.
OTHER: Skunk Cleaner Shrimps;
I love the way they clean
everything, including your
hands, and how tame they are.
IN WITH THE NEW
I have recently rearranged my
sump filter and stripped out all my
soft corals, so the pictures as you
see them are of a fairly new setup.
Now the only corals I have that are
not hard corals are various varieties
of Xenia. My hard corals consist of
Montipora, Hynophora, Stylophora,
Porites, Favites, Lobophyllia, Euphyllia
and Tubipora.
I am currently fighting a
cyanobacteria bloom, which has
only blossomed since redoing the
sump, but I seem to be on top
of doing regular blasts and water
changes to remove the debris that
gets left behind.
I use daily doses of RedSea No3Po4-X and RedSea Coral Energy
A and B. I normally run a TMC
Compact 300 calcium reactor, but
I sheared off the inlet pipe fitting
and need to replace it. I try to do a
50-litre water change once a week
minimum, using Reef Crystals.
TANK STATS
TANK DIMENSIONS:
MAIN DISPLAY WATER VOLUME: 635 litres.
SUMP VOLUME: Approx. 100 litres.
LIGHTING: Arcadia Series 3 twin 150W
metal halide with two Blue T8s.
FAVOURITE…
FISH: Yellow Tail Purple Tang or Starry
Blenny.
CORAL: Don’t really have one
OTHER: Sea Hare (just because
not many people like him),
and my fairly well-decorated
Decorator Crab.
Well done to the winner, who wins a fantastic prize from The Aquarium @ Cockfields Farm
ABOUT THE PRIZE
The Aquarium @ Cockfields Farm are
giving away one of their fantastic frags to
this month’s winner. Cockfields’ Mark and
Duncan have over 20 years of combined
marine retail experience and produce
all their frags in store. All frags are wellsettled and grown out prior to sale, and
Cockfields often demonstrate their fragging
techniques live during their ‘Frag Nights’.
VISIT WWW.COCKFIELDS.CO.UK FOR AVAILABLE STOCK, OR CALL 0161 331 3322
028_TopTanks_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 02:59:45
YOUR
ULTIMATE
SPECIES
GUIDE
GARY WALLACE
JOHN CLIPPERTON
Age: 44.
Age: 36
Hometown:
Bournemouth, Dorset, UK.
Hometown: Chester, UK.
Plumbing and heating
installation and design.
Also a semi-professional
photographer.
Marine experience:
12 years.
Aquarium size:
L1.8 x H0.75 x W1m
with a 182-litre
(40 imperial gallon) sump.
Favourite
fish: I love native wrasse
species; intelligent,
interesting and often very
colourful. In tropical tanks
I was always very proud of
my anthia shoal.
This factual and convenient guide
will feature a number
of species in each issue. Each spe
cies will be treated to
a full-page profile including facts
and photos. This guide
covers both tropical and temperate
marine species.
THIS TIME...
Office worker, photographer.
TE
MP
AT
E
Aquarium size: 205 litres
(45 imperial gallons).
Favourite
fish: Clipperton Angelfish.
coral: Can’t choose just
one... sorry!
other: Peacock
Mantis Shrimp.
Specialist areas: Aquarium
photography, species
identification and runs
Digital Reefs website.
Coral Beauty
Pipe Organ
Tricolour Sea Apple
START YOUR COLLECTION NOW!
T
CU
Specialist areas:
British native
marine reefkeeping.
Scan with your phone
029-035_Species_MH011.indd 1
ER
Marine experience: 10yrs.
Corkwing Wrasse
Photocopy
OUT
19/08/2012 23:37:31
TROPICAL SPECIES
COMMON NAME/S: Coral
Beauty/Twospined/Dusky
Angelfish
SCIENTIFIC NAME/S:
Centropyge bispinosus
ORDER: Perciformes
FAMILY: Pomacanthidae
GENUS: Centropyge
RANGE: Indo-Pacific
Centropyge bispinosus
Written by John Clipperton
NATURAL ENVIRONMENT: Widespread
throughout the Indo-Pacific to Central
Pacific on seaward reef faces, fore reef
slopes, and in lagoons with prolific coral
growth, the Coral Beauty is a rather timid
species and lives up to 60 metres under
the ocean surface. It usually occurs singly
or in small harems (with a single male to
5-7 females). Adults reach around 4ins
maximum, and keep close to the cracks
and crevices of the reef structure, where
they can dart to safety. As diurnal grazers,
a good percentage of their diet is made
up of filamentous green and red algae,
with lesser amounts of small crustaceans,
worms and molluscs. They have also been
observed to engage in coprophagy.
Spawning normally takes place at dusk
and is generally typical of dwarf angels, in
that eggs are scattered and develop in a
pelagic phase.
corals and clams. A tank of at least 40
Imperial gallons should be the smallest
housing considered for long-term care
of a single specimen (a very large tank is
required for a group of this species or a
mix of dwarf angel species). It is one of
the more adaptable of the dwarf angels,
but it is perhaps best suited to a fish-only
with live rock tank, or an aquarium that
contains only noxious soft corals. Whatever
the case, live rock is definitely desirable
because the fish requires a plethora of
hiding places in cracks and caves to feel
secure. In addition, it will graze on naturally
occurring algae growths, particularly as it
settles into a new environment. After this it
is necessary to provide a varied diet that
includes plenty of green foods (possibly
even herbivore flakes) to maintain optimal
condition. Take note that this species is
not bred in captivity for the ornamental
trade, and therefore any specimen
encountered will be wild-caught. Actually,
please be aware that this species has
been known to be cyanide-collected
from certain locations (Philippines), so be
on the lookout for symptoms of this and
always try to ascertain exactly where your
fish has come from and how it has been
caught. Sometimes collected at depth,
also look out for signs of decompressionrelated problems, and injuries associated
with netting (the spines on this fish can
become entangled if netted).
CAPTIVE CARE: The Coral Beauty comes
in many different morphs exhibiting subtle
differences in colouration and pattern,
depending on the geographic location
and depth of collection. In addition,
this species has been documented to
hybridize with other dwarf angel species
(C. ferrugata, C. loricula, C. loriculus, C.
ferrugata, C. shepardi and C. multicolour)
in nature. It is typical of dwarf angelfishes
in that although it is generally gregarious
with other similar fish species, it may
damage sessile invertebrates such as LPS
Don’t forget, all our species profiles and more will be available to download from our website www.marinehabitatmagazine.com
19/08/2012 23:37:36
TROPICAL SPECIES
COMMON NAME/S: Pipe
Organ/Organ Pipe/Daisy
Coral
SCIENTIFIC NAME/S: Tubipora
musica
PHYLUM: Cnidaria
CLASS: Anthozoa
ORDER: Stolonifera
FAMILY: Tubiporidae
GENUS: Tubipora
RANGE: Indian Ocean and
the central and western
regions of the Pacific Ocean
Tubipora musica
NATURAL ENVIRONMENT: Occurring in
shallow and sometimes exposed locations,
such as reef flats and upper reef slopes,
Tubipora musica is relatively widespread
and common within its range. In the wild,
although they may be exposed to high
light intensity, some colonies have been
observed growing in the shade of other
coral species. Usually forming rounded
‘massive’ colonies of a medium size, this
species’ most distinguishing feature is its
bright red to violet calcareous skeleton,
which consists of many rigid upright
parallel tubes, which are fused together by
horizontal plates. The polyps extend from
these tubes and resemble tiny flowers,
measuring a few millimetres in diameter.
Being an octocoral, each polyp possesses
eight feathery tentacles. The form of these
polyps can vary slightly, as can the colour,
but they are usually whitish or pale green,
pink, grey or blue. When disturbed, the
polyps retract into their tubes. The attractive
colouration of its skeleton has led to this
species being harvested extensively for
use in the jewellery trade; however, it
is not currently listed as being at risk.
CAPTIVE CARE: Tubipora musica is unusual;
although it has a hard skeleton, it is actually
a soft coral. Most hard corals belong to
the Scleractinian order, but Tubipora is an
Alcyonarian octocoral belonging to the
Stolonifera order (also commonly known
as Star Polyps). For all intents and purposes,
care is the same as hard corals though,
and this means that excellent water quality
is required, as are suitable levels of lighting
and water flow. As a rough guide, it prefers
high light levels and moderate to strong
flow. Occasional direct cleaning with a
baster should help to keep a colony free
from detritus. It is also worth noting that
this is not an aggressive species, and
this should be taken into account when
siting the colony, to ensure that it is not
damaged by other species. Actually, its
skeleton can be rather fragile, so it should
be handled and sited carefully for this
reason also. Some have reported that
bristleworms may damage colonies, so
it may be sensible to attempt to remove
at least any large worms that may be
present. Due to large variation within the
order, there are several other stoloniferan
species that may be confused with T.
musica. Some of these have a skeleton
and polyps of a similar colour and form,
but only T. musica has a hard skeleton.
19/08/2012 23:37:42
19/08/2012 23:37:47
TROPICAL SPECIES
COMMON NAME/S:
Australian/Philippine/
Indonesian/Tricolour
Sea Apple
SCIENTIFIC NAME/S:
Pseudocolochirus axiologus,
P. violaceus, P. tricolor
PHYLUM: Echinodermata
CLASS: Holothuroidea
ORDER: Dendrochirotida
FAMILY: Cucumariidae
GENUS: Pseudocolochirus
RANGE: Indo-Pacific,
Northern Australia
Pseudocolochirus genus
NATURAL ENVIRONMENT: Sea Apples are
filter-feeders and are easily recognised
by their rounded bodies, tubular feet
and feathery feeding apparatus. Their
bright aposematic colouration serves
as a warning to potential predators,
advertising their toxic defences. Usually
growing around 4-7ins long, they feed
on phytoplankton, usually at night-time
in the wild, when their feathery tentacles
are less at risk from the unwelcome
attention of other organisms. In addition
to this strategy, they also possess other
defence mechanisms. Firstly, they can
respond to disturbance or stress by either
drawing in water to inflate their bodies
(and then allow themselves to be moved
by currents to a new location), or by
shrinking. Secondly, in more extreme
circumstances, they can release a
potent fish toxin called holothurin, either
by intestinal evisceration or by the
expulsion of their cuvierian tubules. Thirdly,
if damaged directly, this toxin can be
released from the body wall or internal
organs. Finally, their gametes are toxic
and will kill fish if they consume them.
CAPTIVE CARE: To keep a Sea Apple in
good condition, an established reef with
lots of room and carefully chosen tank
mates is essential. Live rock is suggested
as décor, and high flow rates should
be provided for several reasons. Having
said this, take extreme care to protect
pumps, weirs and other equipment
because they have high potential to
damage the Sea Apple and cause the
release of toxins. Take note that many
other factors may cause toxin release,
including poor water quality, overcrowded
conditions and harassment by other
organisms. Understand that such a toxin
release will probably kill all the fish in
the aquarium (even a large one). These
creatures feed on phytoplankton and
will not accept larger food particles. As
such, consistent daily, or ideally twice
daily, target feeds with a suitable plankton
product are advised. It can take as long
as 3 years for such a creature to starve
to death in captivity, so be wary of those
who claim to be successful in keeping
such species with alternative methods,
unless they have long-term success. A
gradual reduction in size is a symptom
of a starving Sea Apple. It is worth noting
that a healthy specimen should be
seen to expel waste occasionally (if it
doesn’t this is a sign that it may not be
feeding). As a final warning, please note
that numerous organisms commonly
kept in mixed reef tanks may harass
these species. These include sea urchins,
predatory sea stars, shrimps, lobsters,
crabs and numerous fish species. A large
species tank is clearly the best option.
19/08/2012 23:37:55
19/08/2012 23:37:58
TEMPERATE/
SUBTROPICAL
SPECIES
COMMON NAME:
Corkwing Wrasse
SCIENTIFIC NAME:
Crenilabrus melops
ORDER: Perciformes
FAMILY: Labroidae
GENUS: Symphodus
RANGE: Wide range from
mid-Norway to the coast
of Morocco, including the
western Baltic, Mediterranean
and Faroes
Crenilabrus melops
Written by Gary Wallace; images by Mark Webster
NATURAL HABITAT: Shallow coastal areas
with good algal cover. Moves to deeper
and warmer waters in winter, but rarely
found below 30m. Young wrasse around the
10mm-20mm size are commonly found
in rock pools amongst seaweeds. Freshlycaught juvenile individuals are bright green
and may be mistaken for juvenile Ballen
Wrasse, but can be identified by the spot at
the base of the tail. They are best caught
with a fine net; place the net in front of a
clump of seaweed and flush fish out from
the back into the net. Even small rock pools
lower down the beach can often house a
dozen or so small wrasse. Adults are found
in deeper waters and are only rarely found
stranded in rock pools, but may be seen at
2-3m with a snorkel. Males are beautifully
coloured with electric blue cheek stripes.
Females are a more uniform brown. All,
however, are capable of rapid colour
change, and markings may grow stronger
or fade according to mood and location.
CAPTIVE CARE: Juvenile Corkwing Wrasse
are excellent captive fish. Bold, colourful,
interesting, and ready feeders, they grow
rapidly. A 10mm juvenile will easily reach
30mm in its first year and 50mm by the
second. By the second year the attractive
stripes around the head are well-developed
and the fish is a miniature version of the
adult. Full size is usually 15-20cm, although
it may grow up to 30cm in its 10-year life
span (possibly longer in captivity). Armed with
a remarkably human set of teeth, wrasse
are constant foragers and will do best in a
well-planted aquarium. Two or three kept
together require plenty of space but will
reward you with fascinating behaviour as
they mark out territories, and may even
breed. Large females can change sex
to male if no male is present. Males build
large nests and often entice a number of
females to lay eggs within. He will guard it
fiercely – even against much larger fish –
and even humans. Feed on frozen artemia,
krill and whole mussels. Small live prawns
will be hunted and eaten with immense
gusto by larger individuals. Small Corkwing
Wrasse are peaceful with other species,
and even carry out the useful task of
cleaning up parasites, particularly fish lice.
19/08/2012 23:38:04
N
I
W
A L L THIS!
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This issue’s competition will
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NT Labs customers expect high-quality,
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NT Labs understand the importance
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Issue Ref: MH011
In what year was the NT Labs brand created?
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Competition closing date: 12/10/2012
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036_NTLabsComp_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 01:04:49
information, and
The passage of time can distort
. Now it’s time to
ge
er
em
to
gin
be
s
er
isp
wh
se
ine
Ch
al the real truths.
ve
re
d
an
s
yth
m
st
bu
fs,
lie
be
r
ou
reassess
A shoal of Convict Tangs moving
between feeding grounds on a reef
in South Ari in the Maldives. Note
the Powder Blue making sure they
don’t stop on his patch; one fish vs
several hundred – but some fish are
extremely protective of their food.
DR NICK BRYAN
Age: 27.
Hometown:
Liverpool, UK.
Research; my primary
interest is prediction of
the immune response to
implantable devices.
Marine experience:
12yrs.
Aquarium size:
Sumped 3x2x18
(Approx 300L).
Favourite
fish: Addis Butterfly,
Crosshatch Trigger, Yellow
Tang, Ventralis Anthias,
Epaulette Shark.
coral: Acanthophyllia,
Trachyphyllia.
other: Harlequin Shrimp.
Specialist areas:
Aquatic chemistry and
molecular biology.
Nick Bryan explains some of the troublesome problems many
fishkeepers face when adding more fish to a tank. Territory
battles are mostly inevitable, even with the best research,
but if you understood the causes, could you easily avoid
them? Nick takes a look at the common problems.
L
et’s start with an example. Almost
all of us will at some point attempt
to keep, probably successfully,
one of the Zebrasoma sp. surgeonfish.
This great genus of fish is one of the
workhorses of the hobby, with Z.flavesens
particularly being one of the most prolific
exports from the Pacific to enter the
trade, and with good reason. These fish
are hardy, colourful and great algae
eaters, as Tristan Lougher wrote about in
issue 2. These fish make a fantastic next
step when newcomers want something
slightly more challenging whilst learning
the ropes, and they add a splash of
elegance and beauty to even the most
established of setups. However, inevitably,
after tang number one is added, the
keeper gets the tang bug, and let’s
face it, who wouldn’t! All of a sudden
you’ve got a character fish, an algaefree system, and if you’re a newcomer,
something that’s keeping those domino
damsels which you’ve inevitably accrued
somewhere during your first attempt at
stocking (and now regretting!) in place. Is it
time for tang number two? Let’s give it a go.
Now you’re conscientious, you’ve
done your homework, you’ve followed
the different shape
and different colour
conjecture, and ended
up with Acanthurus sp.,
Ctenochaetus sp., or
perhaps Paracanthurus
hepatus. Acclimatisation
out of the way, you add
your new addition and
you see a side to your algae-nibbling
pacifist that you didn’t think he had in him.
Claudal peduncle primed, tang number
one is relentlessly harrying the new guy,
driving him into the rockwork, or possibly
to the surface, and any foray into open
water is met with the same treatment
– side-on thrashing, fins raised, possibly
even a complete image overhaul; a
number of tangs completely change
colour during this phase. You get on
the net or phone the store and explain
your angst at watching your peaceful
aquarium devolve into a pub brawl,
and whatever your research media, you
discover rapidly that you are dealing with
a group of particularly territorial fish.
The term ‘territorial’ gets thrown
about with much haste and misnomer
throughout the hobby. If you browse
the tanks in a fish shop for an hour on a
Saturday afternoon, you’ll hear this phrase
a dozen times. There’s
a sixline wrasse tank
hopping around your
reef club because
he’s ‘territorial’ too.
And the reason why
you’ve fallen out with
the domino damsels,
which you spent your
salt budget on a trap to catch when
you collected tang number two, is down
to territory too! So what does this term
actually mean? What does territorial imply
about a fish tarred with this brush? Why
do some fish and not others display these
characteristics? And importantly, how, with
a small amount of understanding
The term ‘territorial’
gets thrown about
with much haste and
misnomer throughout
the hobby
037-039_Myth_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 00:29:50
Myth-Buster > Dr Nick Bryan
around what a fish expects from its
territory, can we modify our aquatic
husbandry to maintain even some of the
more territorial inhabitants in relatively
peaceful harmony? Interestingly, and
slightly off topic, territorial makes my top
five list of marine aquatic ambiguities,
with the remaining four slots taken up
by reef-safe, nano (surely something
8ins long, such as a fish tank, could
never be referred to as nano; I make
that ~180,000,000nm), the cutesy
names given to zoanthids, and ‘scolly’
for any remotely disk-shaped largepolyped stony coral – sorry, I digress!
The aggression associated with an
animal deemed territorial is a result
of there being something within the
finite space in which the fish inhabits
which it feels is a rate-limiting resource
In the wild, tangs
(some species more
than others) will
ruthlessly defend
their rights to graze
particular areas of reef
to the success of itself, and ultimately
its species, and as a result, it doesn’t
want anyone else to have it.
A number of variables should spring
to mind which fit this definition, the most
obvious of which is food. Fish need
nourishment to survive and reproduce,
with different species filling different
ecological niches on the reef, and
therefore having different and sometimes
specific food preferences. So if I go back
to the example of the two tangs, these
tangs are not getting along because
when scaled down to an aquarium
environment, they’re displaying their
natural behaviour of defending their
grazing space. In the wild, tangs (some
species more than others) will ruthlessly
defend their rights to graze particular
areas of reef. This doesn’t just apply to
other conspecifics; tangs will harass
certain butterfly fish species, parrotfish,
blennies, anything which may be a threat
to its precious algae. The original tang is
concerned that the newcomer is going
to be a threat to his food source, which
you are providing, so what is the answer?
It’s as easy as providing more. Fighting is
energy-consuming and stress-inducing,
and the animals don’t enjoy it. So once
you identify the reason and modify your
husbandry slightly to compensate for it, it’s
perfectly possible to make it stop. Provide
a good varied supply of algae* ad libitum
in addition to regular alternative foods,
and over time you stand a good chance
of allowing the fish to realise that despite
Pictured here is a Regal Angelfish
(Pygoplites diacanthus).
the latest inmate, the nutrition of the original
fish is not going to be compromised.
To succeed though, you need healthy fish
– this is important. In selecting your second
tang, you need to choose a fish that is
robust, a fish that has been feeding well for
several weeks and is well-rounded, obviously
disease–free, and as a result will not be at
any great physiological disadvantage by
having several days with limited rations.
Being harassed persistently in a closed
environment is extremely demanding,
and you can’t expect your ‘rescue case’
bargain, emaciated powder blue to survive
this ordeal. However, a well-acclimatised fish
with plenty of captive experience, ideally
from a tank breakdown or a shop which
takes pride in its livestock, should come
through, given the correct husbandry
and considerations for their natural
behaviours and biology when necessary.
Even non-tang species such as this Blue Faced
Angelfish (Pomacanthus xanthometopon) can
fall foul of tang aggression. Any fish considered
to be competing for their valuable food supply
will be removed from the premises!
Zebrasoma tangs such as this Emperor Tang
(Z.xantharum) can be particularly feisty
defenders of their aquarium grazing space.
*Briefly here, I can bust another
myth too. Tangs are not exclusively
herbivorous, as hobbyist literature
would have us believe. Whilst
grazing, tangs inevitably consume
a fair amount of invertebrate matter
along with the algae, which should
be reflected in their captive diet.
20/08/2012 00:29:53
Myth-Buster > Dr Nick Bryan
Clownfish, particularly when spawning,
can be very aggressive when defending
the area around their host, which in this
instance is a large Cataphyllia jardeneii.
In the bid to take over the reef, fish are
worried about their next meal because
they need energy for one thing and one
thing only; they need to reproduce. That
is what their biology is telling them to do.
Like everything else on the planet, fish
are merely vehicles for their genes, and
at almost all costs they want to be the
dominant set of genes in their niche. So
the various components of a habitat
where a fish needs to procreate are well
worth protecting from someone else
who may also appreciate their value.
Mates are a clear example. For
particular fish such as clownfish and
certain chaetodon species, which form
monogamous pairs, a good mate is
well worth protecting, which can result
in aggression in instances of potential
suitors attempting to show the pair too
much attention. This sort of aggression is
much more kinetic though, not particularly
associated with a territory as such, as these
pairs of fish drift across the reef to feed.
However, in an aquarium situation where
space is restricted, this could well manifest
itself as territorial aggression. Bear in mind
that a large number of species kept in
aquaria are haremic and/or broadcast
spawners, so aggression associated with
monogamy is unusual. Also remember
that hybridisation in reef fish isn’t particularly
unusual, and pairs can well be formed
between members of different species,
even different genera, so the common
aquarium practice of
maintaining specimens
singly doesn’t necessarily
alleviate pair bondassociated aggression.
It’s not just a
mate required as
a prerequisite for
reproduction; this isn’t
the whole story. Things
like arenas to court,
areas to lay eggs hidden
from predation, or safe
havens to raise young,
are all worth defending
when space is at a premium on the reef.
These can all translate to an aquarium
situation. Also, single animals will show
the foresight to protect these valuable
areas, should they arise, in anticipation
of finding a mate. Again, keeping
single fish doesn’t necessarily remove
aggression associated with breeding
territory from the aquarium environment.
So, reproduction is important, and
crucially, if the fish is to reproduce and
push those valuable genes onto the next
generation, it needs to avoid being eaten.
When are you most likely to be eaten?
When you’re resting. Here’s an example of
an important trait rooted deep in a fish’s
psyche, which manifests itself as territorial
aggression in the aquarium but is easily
avoidable. Fish need sufficient places
to rest during lights out. If you’re a reef
fish, and you’re going to travel to the
big reef in the sky via the stomach of
something higher up the food chain, the
chances are it’s going to happen during
the night, especially if you make yourself
presentable to nocturnal predators whilst
your guard is down. On the reef, a fish
wouldn’t necessarily rest in the same spot
each evening; a large
proportion of reef fish
are nomadic. However,
in the aquarium,
where fish-sized nooks
and crannies are at
a premium, it isn’t
uncommon for fish
to become fiercely
protective of suitable
sleeping spots.
So there it is, and
hopefully some myths
around aquarium
fish squabbling (but
bracketed under the term territorial) have
been dispelled. If we keep in mind the
natural history and evolutionary biology
of the animals we keep, and modify
the aquaria to reflect this, do territorial
disputes settle down? Sometimes they
do. However, one thing is for definite; you
stand a much better chance of success
when trying a mix of animals, which your
reference book may deem incompatible
inmates, once you’ve attempted to
analyse the reason for the incompatibility.
The moral of the story is that fish are
programmed to reproduce, and to do
this they need a good supply of food, and
don’t need to be eaten. Bear this in mind
when choosing your next addition! NB
Things like arenas
to court, areas to
lay eggs hidden
from predation, or
safe havens to raise
young, are all worth
defending when
space is at a premium
on the reef
Do you have a troubling myth for our expert to solve? Why not send us an
email: [email protected]
20/08/2012 00:29:56
H
S
I
F
R
E
G
G
I
TR
OW?
N
K
U
DID YO
© Ligio | Dreamstime.com
Triggerfish are a group of approximately
40 characteristic looking fish which
are common in most tropical seas.
Additionally, a small number of triggers
can be found in cooler waters,
including the coast of the UK.
They derive their name from their
specialised dorsal fins. When threatened,
triggerfish raise the sharp bony first
dorsal spine, which is locked in place
by their second dorsal fin ray, or ‘trigger
spine’. This means they can wedge
themselves tight in rocks, erect their
trigger spine, and become almost
impossible for predators to extract. In
open water it also makes them difficult
for large-mouthed predators to swallow.
With few exceptions, triggerfish are very
easy aquarium fish to care for. As their
strong jaws suggest, their typical diet is
largely made up of crustaceans, in fact in
the UK, triggerfish often turn up as by-catch
by following invertebrates into lobster
pots! Despite their brutish appearance,
certain triggers are planktonic feeders and
make excellent reef fish; primarily, triggers
of the genus Xanthicythys. However, the
Melicythys triggers and the Monotypic
Blue Triggers (Odonus niger) are also
well worth the risk in a reef system.
BY DR NICK BRYAN
040_Didyouknow_MH011.indd 1
19/08/2012 22:18:39
Keeping Rabbits > Scott Michael
SCOTT MICHAEL
Age: 49.
Hometown:
Lincoln, Nebraska, USA.
Photojournalist. Also
involved in consulting for
an aquarium maintenance
business (Reef Tectonics).
Marine experience:
38yrs.
Aquarium size:
58 US gallon aquarium
at home. Also involved in
maintaining over 100 marine
and freshwater aquaria.
Favourite
fish: Wobbegongs,
Epaulette Sharks, Frogfishes
(aka anglerfishes),
Shrimp Gobies.
coral: Euphyllia, Goniopora
and Alvepora spp.
other: Reef lobsters and
decapod shrimps.
Specialist areas:
Behaviour ecology of
Elasmobranches (sharks
and rays) and reef fishes.
KEEPING RABBITS
Scott Michael takes a look at one of the hobbies
most loved species, the Rabbitfish. Known for eating
undesirable algae, do they make a welcome
addition to a marine tank?
T
here are a number of fishes that
not only look great, but also
serve a valuable function in the
aquarium. This is especially true when it
comes to trying to control undesirable
plant growth in the reef tank. Many
coral-keepers have had to fight the
botanical nemesis known as algae.
While there are some desirable forms of
algae, there are others that can cause
the aquarist to pull his or her hair out!
One group of fishes that is employed by
reef aquarists to help control this botanical
pest is the rabbitfishes (family Siganidae).
These fish are some of the most effective
algae eaters that roam the reef. There
are 27 species in this family (see table on
page 44), and about nine of these show
up in aquarium stores on occasion (six
of them are common in the aquarium
trade). Not only are the rabbitfishes
helpful in controlling algae, some
are very attractive. In this article, I will
examine the captive care requirements.
The rabbitfishes are closely related to
the surgeonfishes (family Acanthuridae).
Both species are laterally compressed,
have small mouths and tiny cycloid
scales. Like the acanthurids, these fishes
are dry to the touch – this is the result of
them not producing copious amounts
of slime like many other reef fishes do.
The siganids do lack the caudal spine
(scalpel) that the surgeonfishes are
so well known for, but they are by no
means defenceless. The fin spines of
the rabbitfishes are venomous. Most
aquarists aren’t aware that this venom
can result in injuries as painful as those
inflicted by the scorpionfishes! Therefore,
it is important that you handle these fishes
with great care (more on this later). The
rabbitfishes are distributed in the IndoPacific, although there are species that
have immigrated, via the Suez Canal,
from the Red Sea to the Mediterranean.
RABBIT HOME
The rabbitfishes are a good selection for
the moderate to large-sized aquarium (at
least 55 gallons or larger). They are active
fishes that normally cover a lot of territory in
their daily pursuits. Therefore, it is important
to provide them with lots of swimming room
in the home aquarium. Be aware that the
rabbitfishes vary in size. There are species,
such as the foxface, that only reach 9ins in
length, but there are others that grow up to
16ins. The latter species would need a tank
of at least 200 gallons as full-grown adults.
Thus you need to do some research before
selecting a rabbitfish for your aquarium. I
should point out that many of these fishes
will not reach their maximum length in the
home aquarium, but I believe it is better
to be safe than sorry when it comes to
living space for your captive fishes.
The smaller rabbitfish (around 20cm)
include some of the most attractive,
including the foxface and the
041-044_Rabbitfishes_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 03:10:50
Some members of the genus Siganus, like
this Gold-spotted Rabbitfish (S. guttatus),
form large shoals that roam about the
reef, occasionally stopping to feed on
algae. This species also feeds after dark.
magnificent rabbitfish. A 380-litre tank would
suffice for an adult of these species. The
coral rabbitfish and the virgate rabbitfish
are medium-size species (around 30cm)
that would do best in
tanks of 500 litres or
more. The masked
rabbitfish and goldspotted rabbitfish are
larger species (38cm),
and adults should be
housed in tanks of
around 760 litres or
more. Of course, the
young of any of these
species can be housed
in tanks as small as
100 litres, but these fish
will grow and often do so quickly if well
fed. No matter if the rabbitfish are small or
large, they should always have plenty of
uncluttered swimming space. That said,
it is also important to include caves or
overhangs for them to hide in when startled.
been frozen and thawed, broccoli, and
flake and frozen foods that contain spirulina.
They will also eat algae growing on the
aquarium glass or decor, or introduced
macroalgae, such as
caulerpa. Some of the
rabbitfishes will also
eat the faecal matter
produced by their
piscine tank mates.
Because they feed
throughout the day in
the wild, it is important
to feed them often in a
tank that doesn’t contain
healthy plant growth for
them to regularly browse
on. These fish will grow
at a moderate rate in captivity, if properly
fed and kept at higher water temperatures.
For example, juvenile lined rabbitfish were
reported to grow as much as 1.5cm in one
month, while young gold-spotted rabbitfish
will grow as much as 8cm over a 6-month
period. Of course, well-fed juveniles grow
at a more accelerated rate than larger
conspecifics. Young rabbitfish also have
greater metabolic needs and will require
more food per day. An underfed rabbitfish
will have a paper-thin body and a large
head. If you’re at your local store looking
Because they feed
throughout the day in
the wild, it is important
to feed them often
in a tank that doesn’t
contain healthy plant
growth for them to
regularly browse on
RABBIT FOOD
When it comes to food, rabbitfishes aren’t
usually finicky. However, it is very important
to include plenty of plant material in their
diets. This would include Noire (sheets of
dried algae), spinach leaves that have
While siganids, like this Masked Rabbitfish (Siganus puellus),
are typically considered reef-safe, if they don’t get enough to
eat, they may start picking at sessile invertebrates.
for a siganid for your aquarium, it would
be wise to avoid emaciated individuals.
RABBIT COMPATIBILITY
The rabbitfishes are not as pugnacious as
their surgeonfish cousins. However, in some
cases, they will exhibit intra and interspecific
aggression. This is especially true if the
rabbitfish is placed in a tank and allowed to
settle in before a conspecific or congener is
introduced. In order to reduce the likelihood
of aggressive interactions, it is prudent to
add all the rabbitfishes you intend to keep
in the aquarium at once (after they have
all been quarantined, of course). If you
are unable to place all siganids in the tank
simultaneously, you should introduce the
largest individuals and the potentially most
aggressive species last. Also, the less similar
the rabbitfishes are, the more likely they
will tolerate the presence of a congener.
Of course, conspecifics are more likely
to fight. Try feeding and turning off the
lights before you add a new rabbitfish
to a tank that has a resident siganid.
Some rabbitfishes are more aggressive
than others. Species that spend most of
their lives in coral reef habitats tend to
be more site-specific, live in pairs, are
more brightly coloured, and are often
more belligerent. This includes all the
members of the subgenus Lo. One way to
successfully keep conspecific rabbitfish in
the same tank is to obtain a heterosexual
pair. Unfortunately, the only known sexual
dimorphism known in siganids is that
females tend to mature at a larger size
than males. Therefore, in most cases,
obtaining a pair is a matter of luck, not
skill. Some rabbitfish (e.g. members of the
second group discussed above) can be
kept in small to medium-sized schools if
you have a very large tank. I should also
20/08/2012 03:10:59
The colouration of some juvenile
rabbitfishes differs from that of the
adults. Pictured here is a young Coral
Rabbitfish (Siganus corallinus), which
gets more blue spots as it gets larger.
Rabbitfishes, like this Pencilstreaked
Rabbitfish (Siganus doliatus), not
only eat annoying microalgae, they
can also help control macroalgae
(e.g. Caulerpa), which can take
over a reef aquarium.
The Foxface Rabbitfish (Siganus
vulpinus) has been a popular
aquarium fish for many decades. Its
bright yellow colour and hardiness
are two reasons why it’s adored.
Some siganids, like this Magnificent
Rabbitfish (Siganus magnifica),
form long-term pair bonds similar to
those seen in butterflyfishes.
point out that many of the rabbitfishes
are more social as juveniles. As they grow
larger, they are more likely to start picking
on conspecific or congener tank mates.
The rabbitfishes are some of the best
reef herbivores for helping to control algae
growth in the reef aquarium. This includes
macroalgae (e.g. caulerpa) that can
take over a tank, as well as some of the
pestilent filamentous forms (e.g. green hair
algae such as Derbesia and Entermorpha).
Although not a rabbitfish favourite, some
species will even eat the siphonous
bubble algae (Valonia). As mentioned
before, certain species will eat sessile
invertebrates, like sponges and colonial
tunicates. However, most individuals usually
don’t bother either soft or stony corals. That
said, I should point out that rabbitfishes will
feed on the zooxanthellae expelled by
large-polyped stony corals. This can lead
to an occasional individual developing
the bad habit of picking at the coral’s
polyp. I have also heard of individual
siganids eating mushroom anemones
(corallimorpharians). If you have corals in
your tank that are beginning to close up
or behave as if irritated, make sure you
spend some time closely watching the
rabbitfish (and other herbivores). If they
begin nipping at corals, you will probably
have to remove them. Sometimes feeding
them more often can discourage them
from picking at the sessile invertebrates,
but this can also reduce their desire to
consume the pestilent algae in the tank. As
far as other invertebrates are concerned,
an occasional individual may ‘go bad’ and
start chewing on tridacnid clam mantles.
I have also had rabbitfishes chew through
the sedimentary tubes of feather duster
worms, and nip at the feeding tentacles of
Christmas tree worms. Larger individuals
20/08/2012 03:11:07
A SELECTION OF
RABBITFISH SPECIES
The rabbitfishes adopt a mottled
colour phase at night and when
stressed. This photo shows a
Foxface Rabbitfish at night.
Genus Siganus
Subgenus Siganus
Forktail rabbitfish (Siganus argenteus)
Whitespotted rabbitfish Siganus canaliculatus)
Coral rabbitfish (Siganus corallinus)
Gold-spotted rabbitfish (Siganus guttatus)
Java rabbitfish (Siganus javus)
Lined rabbitfish (Siganus lineatus)
Dusky rabbitfish (Siganus luridus)
Blackeye rabbitfish (Siganus puelloides)
Masked rabbitfish (Siganus puellus)
Peppered rabbitfish (Siganus punctatissimus)
Gold-spotted rabbitfish (Siganus punctatus)
Randall's rabbitfish (Siganus randalli)
Red Sea rabbitfish (Siganus rivulatus)
Scribbled rabbitfish (Siganus spinus)
Stellate rabbitfish (Siganus stellatus)
Vermiculated rabbitfish (Siganus vermiculatus)
Virgate rabbitfish (Siganus virgatus)
Subgenus Lo*
Magnificent rabbitfish (Siganus magnificus)
Uspi rabbitfish (Siganus uspi)
Foxface rabbitfish (Siganus vulpinus)
* Some include Siganus unimaculatus as a
distinct species, but it appears to be a colour
form of S. vulpinus.
may also eat small, delicate shrimps (e.g.
small anemone shrimps). However, they
rarely bother ornamental crustaceans.
RABBIT PROBLEMS
Certain rabbitfishes are well known for their
ability to rapidly change colour. They often
do this when frightened, stressed, or at
night. Usually when this occurs the lighter
colours become darker, the darker colours
fade, and the bright colours become less
intense. They often develop spots and
blotches on the head and body, or a
grey bar, bordered in white, may appear
through the middle of the body. These
colour changes are often accompanied
by a change in behaviour. The fish may
become inactive, and lie in torpor on the
aquarium substrate, or it may behave
in a nervous fashion
(e.g. dash about,
hide incessantly).
These colour shifts can
indicate a potential
problem (e.g. poor
water quality, low
oxygen levels, or bullying
by a tank mate). It is a good idea to check
water parameters and to watch your fish
community closely to rule out the possibility
of environmentally induced stress. In many
cases, these fishes will adopt the stressed
colouration when first introduced to their
new home, and may retain this pattern
until they begin to feel more at ease. The
rabbitfishes will take longer to acclimate
if they are kept in a
high traffic area, such
as a busy office.
Fortunately for
aquarists, these
fishes tend to be very
disease-resistant.
They may contract
skin parasites, like ick, but do not
seem to readily succumb to it. I would
recommend lowering the salinity of
the tank if your rabbitfish suffers from
protozoan parasites. I have seen foxface
survive otherwise total tank wipeouts.
Special care should be taken when
handling these fishes, because of their
venomous fin spines. Always use a large
specimen container when moving
them. Nets are not as good because
the fin spines often get tangled in the
mesh. If you are ever stung, place the
extremity in hot water or apply heat
using a hairdryer. This acts to denature
the proteins that constitute the venom.
It may not be a bad idea to see a
doctor if the swelling and pain persists.
If your rabbitfish get too large for your
tank, you can always eat them! They
are an important food in many parts
of the Indo-Pacific. (Before you get the
pen and paper out to complain to the
editorial staff, please be aware that I am
just kidding about eating your pets!)
The rabbitfishes make interesting and
attractive aquarium charges that can also
help in keeping reef tanks healthy. SM
If your rabbitfish
get too large for
your tank, you can
always eat them!
The Uspi or Fiji Rabbitfish (Siganus
uspi), which is endemic to the Fiji
Islands and was once rare in the
aquarium trade, has become readily
available in the last 5 years.
20/08/2012 03:11:13
Innovative, efficient and versatile.
The new R420R is sleek and elegantly designed to be the centerpiece of your aquarium
at 160w this system redeenes efficiency utilizing high intensity Cree chips it is capable
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The R420R also utilizes the super actinic LED chips producing the important 410/420nm
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20/08/2012 04:27:41
1 BCUK Aquatics – Freeze-dried Calanus
RRP: £8.99 MORE INFO: food4fish.co.uk
Calanus is a decapod (10-legged) free-swimming
zooplankton that is instantly recognised by the intense
blood-orange colouration. This colouration stems from
the extremely high levels of astaxanthin and other
carotenoids stored within the Calanus® body. Calanus
is the ‘engine’ of the ecosystem in the Atlantic Ocean,
constituting a complete blend of essential components
required by fish and other sea life, including corals
and invertebrates. These components are of vital
importance for the healthy growth and development of
larval and juvenile fish and shrimps.
Freeze-dried Calanus organisms are produced from
fresh frozen material, providing aquarists with a product
that is as fresh as when it just left the water. When
feeding freeze-dried Calanus it naturally floats, which
is great for surface feeding, however, if you wish the
product to sink, presoak the desired amount of food in
tank water for a few minutes prior to feeding.
Freeze-dried Calanus is available in 20g containers.
1
2 NEW iQuatics – 39W T5 Aluminium Reflector
RRP: £8.49 MORE INFO: iquaticsonline.co.uk
Are you giving your corals and plants enough light?
Restricted on space and can’t add any more tubes?
One cost-effective alternative is to add iQuatics
reflectors to help increase your overall light output
without the increase in electricity consumption.
iQuatics offer a vast range of bulbs and reflectors, and
in July this year they released a new range of T5/T8
reflectors that have undergone considerable redesign
since the first generation products. The T5 range offers
sizes from 24W-80W; the 39W unit is 850mm/34ins in
length and 16mm/5/8ins wide.
The iQuatics reflectors are easy-wipe, rust-resistant, and
easy to replace, and use cost-effective reflective strips.
They are able to withstand high temperatures so you
can even use them alongside halides.
2
3
3 NEW TMC – Signature Optiwhite Glass Tanks and Cabinets
RRP: from £99.99 MORE INFO: tropicalmarinecentre.co.uk
TMC have launched a brand new Signature
range; it consisting of stylish high-clarity aquariums,
manufactured from Optiwhite (low iron) premium quality
glass for super-clear, true to nature viewing. This range is
rimless and braceless, which ensures unobstructed views
from all angles, and a minimalist look. Discreet silicone
seals the joints. The tanks are available in four sizes:
L450xW450mm and L600xW450mm, both available in
depths of 300mm and 450mm.
The range also incorporates stylish, simply designed
046-047_GearGuide_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 02:30:03
Gear Guide > Marine Habitat
cabinets, manufactured from high-quality materials
for strength, as well as resilience to water and
condensation. The sleek single door design allows for
storage of all accessories, or even for the installation
of a sump. There are no handles, just a soft-close door
for a sleek, minimalist finish to the cabinet. Available in
carbon grey, charcoal black, and glacier white.
4
4 Eheim – Eheim Air Pump - 100l/h
RRP: £29.00 MORE INFO: eheim.com
Eheim offer three power levels of air pump: 100l, 200l
and 400l. The power output is extremely quiet and is
adjustable. This air pump is supplied fully equipped and
ready to use. It offers continuous ultra-quiet operation,
with air-flow level adjustment on the pump, and a
maximum height range of 2m, and it’s only 3.5W. The
supplied Eheim outflow unit is also adjustable, thus the
bubbling pattern can be easily adjusted to your liking
and the requirements of your aquarium. The Eheim air
pump is equipped with an eye for wall fastening, but
can also be safely mounted on the vibration resisting
rubber edges in a traditional manner.
5 Seachem – Clarity 500ml
RRP: £21.99 MORE INFO: seachem.com
Clarity is a water clarifier for both fresh and saltwater.
It employs an advanced polymeric flocculating
agent that is both reef- and plant-safe. Clarity clears
all types of clouding, including, but not limited to,
chemical clouding and particulate clouding (i.e.
stirred-up substrate), and it’s freshwater, marine,
plant and reef safe. Many companies manufacture
multiple products to clear up all types of cloudiness
in different environments (e.g. freshwater, marine,
reef, etc.). Some companies have developed
products that will clear most types of cloudiness,
but the application requires two separate bottles
of product. Clarity contains compounds that will
clear all types of cloudiness in all environments. It
contains both precipitating and flocculating agents
in the same bottle, so all types of cloudiness can be
removed in one dose.
5
6
Clarity contains
compounds that
will clear all types
of cloudiness in all
environments
6 Reef Culture – Stony Coral Cutters - 6ins
RRP: £12.99 MORE INFO: reefculture.co.uk
As with anything in life, the right tools for the job can
make the task very easy, and this is no different when
fragging. While many are familiar and confident with
fragging soft corals, stony corals can also be fragged.
If this is something you are likely to attempt, a pair
of Stoney Coral Cutters would be a worthy addition
to your tool bag. The cutters are made from surgical
stainless steel and electroplated (colour black) to
inhibit rust. They feature a ‘grippy’ handle for better
control when the cutters are wet. The cutter length of
this tool is 16cm.
046-047_GearGuide_MH011.indd 2
20/08/2012 02:30:09
GEARGUIDE
Gear Guide > Eco-Lamps
GEARGUIDE
Quick look
Manufacturer
Eco-Lamps
Product
Eco-Lamps KR90
What is it?
Beginner LED aquarium
lighting system
Price
RRP: from £209.99
Availability
weston-marine-life.co.uk
Further info
eco-lamps.com
STYLISH, AFFORDABLE, EFFICIENT
AND LESS THAN ONE-INCH THICK
suitable for marine fish and certain corals.
As a beginner unit, it has also been given
a much more affordable price tag. This
makes it so more accessible for those
wanting to trial LED lighting on their reef
Have you fancied giving LED lighting a go on your tank
system without paying out huge sums.
The KR90 is available in a range of
for a while, but every time you take a look at them you
sizes, from L320xW122xH24mm, with 40W
remember how expensive they are? Well look no further
of power consumption and a total of 21
light sources (14 white and seven blue),
because the KR90 is an affordable option for beginners.
right up to L1220xW122xH24mm, with
160W of power and 84 light sources (56
white and 28 blue). There are five models
to other quality brands currently on the
In recent years LED lighting has exploded
in between the two extremes, and all
market. A couple of the more established
into the world of marine fishkeeping,
models in their reef range include the KR91 models are available in either black or
and now it’s almost impossible to be a
silver. You will notice
and KR93. The KR91 is
hobbyist without hearing about the newest
that all are incredibly
the performance model,
model that has just been released. This is
The KR90 can be
thin, measuring less
catering for LPS corals,
really fantastic for the hobby and should
used either as a
than one inch.
and at the top end, the
be encouraged, because this lighting
The units have a
KR93 is the professional
is getting better and better. The flip side
stand-alone fixture, or
built-in programmable
model suitable for all
with this, of course, is that like anything
as part of a modular controller, neatly
types of reefkeeping,
new, especially where technology is
system that gives
recessed into the
including SPS corals.
concerned, the newer and better it is, the
end, which provides
Their latest addition
more expensive it generally is. LED lights
you the flexibility to
a straightforward
is the KR90, and with
are a bit like computers at the moment;
increase or modify
way to set up the
this model, rather than
new features are being developed and
packing it with the
added all the time, and while hobbyists
the size of your tank intensity and timing
schedule to best suit
latest gadgets, features
everywhere are eagerly awaiting the
your system, and essentially allows
and most intense light output available
price drop, there is a very good chance
you to simulate the natural cycle
on the market, Eco-Lamps have come
this isn’t going to be any time soon.
of the sun and moon, creating a
up with quite the opposite. The KR90
Eco-Lamps offer a growing range of LED
stunning way to show off your setup.
is intended as a beginner trial model,
aquarium lighting solutions, comparable
Three rows of LEDs are utilised, two of
which are clusters, and produce both
cool white and royal blue light. The third
is a row of individual high-output LEDs
which run down the centre line and
only produce the cool white light. All
LEDs have a 75-degree light spread.
Two fixing options are available, and
the hardware for both come included
with the unit. The first is a light pendant
hanging kit, and second is a stylish and
adjustable mounting bracket which slides
down the middle groove of the LED fixture.
The KR90 can be used either as a
stand-alone fixture, or as part of a modular
system that gives you the flexibility to
increase or modify the size of your tank.
048_GGReco_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 04:13:36
20/08/2012 04:30:05
Oban
Scarborough
Weymouth
Alton Towers
Chessington
Overseas Distributors Required
Available from your local BCUK Stockist for further information on these products
please call 01507 600477 or visit: www.food44sh.co.uk
Journeys of amazing discovery
QuarterPage_MH007.indd 1
w w w.v is its e a life .com
21/12/2011 20:36:34
20/08/2012 04:31:33
Not all Banggai Cardinals are
as healthy as these aquariumestablished specimens.
JOHN DAWES
Age: 66.
Hometown: Gibraltar (now
living in Spain).
International consultant,
author, editor.
Marine experience: Over
25 years.
Aquarium size: Have had
numerous aquaria, but
owing to my travelling
schedule, I now have a
number of ponds.
Favourite
fish: In no specific order:
Tomato Clown, Leafy
Seadragon, Pinecone Fish,
Twinspot Wrasse, Cleaner
Wrasse, Yellow Tang, Addis
Butterfly, Emperor Angel,
Banggai Cardinalfish,
Red Lionfish… plus
numerous others!
other: All forms of shore life.
Specialist areas: Marine
life in nature, ecology,
evolution, fish behaviour,
conservation, the
ornamental aquatic industry.
THE
FIGHT FOR SURVIVAL
INTERNATIONAL BANGGAI CONSERVATION PROJECT
John Dawes investigates the unfortunate decline
of one of our most loved fish, and seeks out what
important actions are taking place to ensure this
endangered species survives its most troubled time.
E
very once in a while, a new fish
hits our shops and immediately
makes a mark. Usually, the
most significant characteristic of this
newcomer is that it’s different. It could
be its colouration, its shape, or any of
several distinguishing factors, but one
thing they all have in common is that
either singly or in combination, they
set the new fish apart from the rest and
generate curiosity and interest, both within
the trade and the hobby. This is precisely
what happened when the striking
Banggai Cardinalfish or BCF (Pterapogon
kauderni) made its first appearance in
the mid-1990s, since when it has never
ceased to be in demand. So much
so, it wasn’t long after its introduction
that concerns were raised regarding
its status in the wild, with fears that
collection for home aquaria was leading
to significant declines in populations.
LISTINGS AND CONCERNS
As concern began to grow and data
from the field gradually accumulated,
the World Conservation Union (IUCN)
decided, in 2007, to categorise the BCF
as ‘Endangered’ on its Red List. On 14th
February 2012, the European Union got
involved by including the species
051-055_Banggai_MH011.indd 1
19/08/2012 23:42:48
International Banggai Project > John Dawes
in Annex D of the European Wildlife Trade
Regulation (Commission Regulation
(EU) No. 101/2012). Annex D is reserved
for ‘some CITES Appendix III species for
which the EU holds a reservation’, and
for ‘some non-CITES species’ (see Box:
CITES APPENDICES AND RESERVATIONS).
P. kauderni does not, as yet, appear on
any of the three CITES Appendices, so
it falls under the latter category of nonCITES species. Annex D species are further
defined as ‘species… which are imported
into the (European) Community in such
numbers as to warrant monitoring.’
The above listings are the only two in
which the Banggai Cardinalfish currently
features. The US proposed its inclusion
in Appendix II at the Convention in
International Trade in Endangered Species
14th Conference of the Parties (CITES CoP
14), which was held on 3rd-15th June 2007,
but this did not happen. Consequently,
there is no CITES prohibition or restriction
on the import of the species into
Europe (monitoring by the EU and
CITES control are two different
things). However, this doesn’t
mean that the idea of the species’
inclusion in Appendix I or II will not
be resurrected at some stage.
Despite the non-listing of the
BCF, there have been calls in
the US, mainly in the consumer
press, for hobbyists to boycott
wild-caught Banggais and stick
to captive-bred specimens,
but these have not resulted
in any statutory controls, and
trade therefore continues.
An additional concern
centres on a mysterious disease
caused by an iridovirus, which
is proving lethal to many cardinals.
Questions have been, and are being,
asked about the origins of this virus
(suspected, but not yet proven, to originate
in the wild), its movement through the
supply chain, possible preventive and
treatment strategies, its potential spread
to other species, and so on. Further
questions are also being asked about
the aforementioned IUCN listing, since
it is already some 5 years out of date
and important changes have occurred
in the intervening period. For its part, the
US does not list the BCF in any legislative
document at the moment, meaning that
it does not restrict trade in the species.
Somewhere along the line, the real
plight of the BCF has become unclear,
with some authors suggesting or stating
that the species is close to extinction, while
failing to back this up with hard data. None
of these claims have come either from
the trade or from those closest to the fish,
i.e. the Banggai Archipelago collectors, or
those others, like Yayasan Alam Indonesia
Lestari, or LINI - the Indonesia Nature
Foundation, which is intimately involved in
the conservation of the species in situ.
ABOVE The ‘Banggai Rescue Team’
of US scientists at work under the
gaze of amused locals.
LEFT Adult BCF keeping close to a
sea urchin in their natural habitat.
BELOW In situ community
consultations on BCF issues.
Equally, no one in the aquarium trade
or any of the Indonesian-based BCF
agencies has claimed that the fish occurs
in such large numbers that it doesn’t require
protection. Indeed, there appears to be
universal agreement that there should
be some form of in-depth investigation
to determine the real situation in the wild,
and that the findings of such investigations
should determine what steps should be
taken. However, this does not imply that
we find ourselves in a situation where
everyone’s expressing concern but no
one’s doing anything. Nothing could be
further from the truth. In fact, there’s been
a lot going on in Indonesia itself under
LINI’s umbrella – led by its founder, pioneer
marine conservationist, Gayatri Lilley – with
support from the Indonesian government
and the BCF fishermen themselves.
Since the establishment of LINI in 2008,
a great deal of work has been carried
out by this non-profit making organisation,
including the training of over 500 fish
collectors’ groups to improve capture
and holding practices. Work towards
the development of a sustainable BCF
fishery, population monitoring surveys,
the implementation of conservation
LINI’S MISSION
To support the conservation and
management of coastal marine
resources throughout Indonesia by
empowering coastal communities
and promoting fairer, more
sustainable practices, of marine
resource use. The BCF therefore falls
fairly and squarely within its terms of
reference - see: www.lini.or.id for fuller
details of LINI and its activities.
19/08/2012 23:42:50
CITES APPENDICES AND RESERVATIONS
APPENDIX I SPECIES “are the most
endangered among CITES-listed animals
and plants”. They are threatened with
extinction and CITES prohibits international
trade in specimens of these species
except when the purpose of the import
is not commercial, for instance, for
scientific research. “In these exceptional
cases, trade may take place provided
it is authorised by the granting of both
an import permit and an export permit
(or re-export certificate)”. However, CITES
“provides for a number of exemptions to
this general prohibition”. Sawfishes (family
Pristidae), except Pristis microdon, are
included in this Appendix.
APPENDIX II SPECIES “are not necessarily
now threatened with extinction but
that may become so unless trade is
closely controlled”. International trade
in specimens of Appendix II species
may be authorised by the granting of
an export permit or re-export certificate.
All seahorses (Hippocampus spp) are
included in this Appendix.
APPENDIX III SPECIES is a list of species
included at the request of a Party
(country member of CITES) that already
programmes, and many other measures
have also been undertaken over recent
years. There’s also close collaboration
between LINI and the Banggai Collectors’
Group (Banggai Cardinal Lestari), as a
result of which BCF mortality levels during
transportation have been improved, and
quotas have been set as part of the Save
Banggai Fisheries Improvement Project.
Nonetheless, with the BCF attracting
global interest and demand, and with
reports of population
declines continuing,
it’s been difficult, if not
impossible, to establish
concrete baseline data
and control strategies.
regulates trade in the species and
that needs the cooperation of other
countries to prevent unsustainable or
illegal exploitation. International trade
in specimens of species listed in this
Appendix is allowed only on presentation
of the appropriate permits or certificates.
At the moment, there are no fish species
listed in this Appendix.
RESERVATIONS: Any Party (member
State) of CITES may make a unilateral
statement that it will not be bound by
the provisions of the Convention relating
to trade in a particular species listed in
the Appendices (or in a part or derivative
listed in Appendix III). These statements
are called reservations. A Party that has
entered a reservation may withdraw it
at any time, but, while the reservation
is in effect, the Party is formally treated
as a non-Party with respect to trade in
the species (or specimen) concerned.
At the moment, for example, Indonesia,
Japan, Norway and the Republic of
Korea have reservations in place for all
species of Hippocampus, while Palau
has reservations for Denise’s Pygmy
Seahorse (H. denise) and the common
Seahorse (H. kuda).
caught fire, and within an incredibly short
period of time, donations were received
from around 150 backers, including
members of the US trade, to enable a
team to fly out to Sulawesi in Indonesia
in late June, to join up with Gayatri
Lilley, the LINI team, and the scientists
from the Gondol Research Institute of
Mariculture (GRIM) based in North Bali.
The main home base chosen for the
US team was the Tropical Aquaculture
Laboratory (TAL) at the
University of Florida in
Ruskin, where three of
the team members
worked. Even before
they set off from TAL for
the islands, there was
great excitement and
expectation all round,
both on the part of those
directly involved in the
project, and those of us
who had received news
of what was about to be undertaken.
There was also a vital ingredient present,
one which enhances the chances of
such international projects bearing fruit:
mutual respect on both sides, which was
beautifully expressed in the words of one
of the US scientists, Dr. Matt Wittenrich, who
told me before he left: “She (Gayatri Lilley)
and the team at LINI are doing amazing
things toward BCF conservation and
management, and the team from the
University of Florida are fully encouraged that
their work is making significant improvements
to the trade in this species.”
...it has become
clear that the need
for concerted action,
including input from
sources outside the
Banggai Archipelago
itself, has become
a top priority
INTERNATIONAL
COLLABORATION
Over the past year
or so, it has become
clear that the need
for concerted action,
including input from sources outside the
Banggai Archipelago itself, has become
a top priority. It therefore came as no
surprise when in March of this year (2012),
an announcement was made that a team
of US scientists was being assembled to
fly out to Indonesia to assess the situation,
attempt to track down the source of the
iridovirus disease, explore the possibilities of
establishing mariculture operations in the
region, and collect healthy BCF broodstock
for captive aquaculture research in the US.
Launched in the 12th March edition of
an online US-based publication, the idea
19/08/2012 23:42:51
NUMEROUS CHALLENGES
Gayatri Lilley and the LINI team have,
indeed, been doing, and are still
doing, amazing things, but there are
many challenges that need to be
tackled and numerous questions
that need to be addressed.
Here are just a few that spring to
my mind (but there are others):
• What is the actual status of
all the wild populations?
• How many of these are there?
• How many introduced
populations are there?
• What state are they in?
• How, exactly, is the trade
affecting BCF numbers?
• Are all populations equally affected
by collection for home aquaria?
• To what extent is illegal trade occurring,
and how is it affecting numbers?
• Can it be stopped?
• What is the source of the BCF iridovirus?
• If it’s present in wild populations, are
all populations equally affected, or
BCF recruits seeking protection
among anemone tentacles.
are some free of the virus, perhaps
as a result of genetic differences?
• If the iridovirus is present in all
populations, is the health of the
fish compromised in any way,
or are they immune to it?
• If they are immune, why are aquarium
stocks affected, e.g. could
handling and/or transportation
stresses act as vital triggers?
• If this is the case, how can it be avoided?
• Can virus-free research/breeding
stock be obtained if the virus
is widespread in the wild?
• Does the concept of mariculture hold
any promise for the local fishermen
who are not used to this practice,
having traditionally earned their
livelihood directly from the sea?
• What part, if any, could ex-situ
captive-breeding programmes play
in the conservation of the species?
Even answering just one of these is
likely to prove challenging. Further, while
answering one question will, undoubtedly,
provide much valuable information, it will
also raise many more questions. But a start
has to be made somewhere. At least the
joint team kicks off with an advantage of
having all the data and groundwork carried
out by LINI over the past 5 years or so.
EARLY PROMISE
As I write, we are only in the earliest
stages of what is destined to become
a long-running journey of discovery
and conservation programme, which
could result in the Banggai Cardinalfish
becoming one of the best-known and
researched marine aquarium fish in the
whole world. Encouragingly, some very
interesting information is already emerging
regarding a multitude of questions, and,
as fully expected, raising many others. The
following paragraphs very briefly summarise
just a few aspects of the initial stages
of this fast-growing knowledge base.
For example, as everyone suspected,
there are several introduced populations,
e.g. a well-known one at Luwuk in Central
Sulawesi, as well as several lesser-known,
or totally unknown, ones in Bali. There’s
also another long-known alien population
at Lembeh Strait in North Sulawesi.
Interestingly, and perhaps contrary to
expectations, bearing in mind the highly
polluted water in Luwuk harbour, the US
team discovered that the population there
appears to be thriving. In Lembeh Strait, it
could even be proving to be invasive! Now
that’s a surprise, and it raises a multitude of
questions and possibilities, taking account
of the concerns surrounding the natural
populations elsewhere in the region.
Could, for instance, these introduced
fish be collected and exported, rather
than those from natural habitats? Or
could they be used to restock other
19/08/2012 23:42:53
LEFT Local groups conducting
BCF populations monitoring.
RIGHT Conditioned Banggais
bearing no sign of disease, viral
or otherwise, awaiting bagging
up just prior to shipping.
populations which may be at greater
risk? Despite the apparent simplicity of
these questions, they are multi-faceted
ones that can’t be easily answered.
For a start, without detailed genetic
analysis, the origins of these introduced
populations can’t be determined.
Therefore, if such unknown stocks were
to be released elsewhere, this would
have significant, and perhaps disastrous,
consequences for the species as a whole.
Moving on to the island of Peleng,
more specifically, to Bone Baru, the
main centre of BCF activity, the team
learned that despite the official legal
monthly quota for BCF being 15,000,
many more are being collected and
exported illegally. Happily though, following
changes in the fishery, local fishermen
report that things are improving and are
leading towards greater sustainability.
The Banggai Triangle – a small
area so named by Matt Wittenrich
and encompassing three villages on
separate islands – has been identified as
being fundamental to the BCF’s future,
since it holds over 70% of the total BCF
populations. Taking into consideration
the fact that the team covered most
of the BCF’s natural range, including
the Banggai Triangle, in just one day, its
significance becomes self-evident.
Adding further concern to the abovementioned illegal activity, habitat
destruction via blast and cyanide
fishing (NOT for BCF!), uncontrolled forest
clearing with its consequent devastating
and reef-suffocating run-offs, etc., are
all proving very real additional threats
which need to be addressed.
The coming months, and years, will
reveal much more about the status of, and
prospects for, the continued survival of the
BCF in the wild and for the establishment of
a sustainable fishery. One central feature
will be the findings of the studies currently
being undertaken with regard to the
aforementioned iridovirus. At the time of
writing, the first results of the investigations
being carried out in Indonesia by GRIM
were being awaited. These analyses are
being backed up by further studies in the US.
AMAZING STORY TO TELL
The US team went to Indonesia on a
discovery mission and returned to base
in early July ‘with an amazing story to tell’,
one that is gradually unfolding and has a
long, long way to go. The challenges are
undoubtedly many and daunting, but as
Matt Wittenrich emphasises:
“…we are excited and
encouraged to have
formed great working
relationships with both
LINI and GRIM on the
ground in Indonesia. I
truly believe that this is a
fantastic relationship…
one with real potential
to make a difference
in the trade.”
Meanwhile, back
in Indonesia, Gayatri Lilley reports that
the local agencies and fishermen
were all excited by the visit of so
many foreigners: “We learned many
things from each other, and shared
our knowledge and experiences.”
There is, clearly, positive synergy between
all the parties concerned, and long may
this continue for the benefit of all, especially
the beautiful Banggai Cardinalfish.
Bongo and Teropot. The sites at Bone Baru
and Bongo were in No-take Zones, and
here there were slight increases in the
densities of both recruits (newest fish) and
juveniles. At Teropot, though, where regular
collection occurs, the number of adult
fish was declining. Some declines were
also observed elsewhere in areas where
sea urchins and anemones are being
collected for human consumption (sea
urchins and anemones provide habitats
for recruits and juveniles). LINI has therefore
asked the District Fishery in Peleng for ‘further
controls and increased monitoring of BCF
collection and trade via the southern part
of the Banggai area.’ It has also urged
the authorities ‘to monitor the exploitation
of habitats of the BCF
juveniles, as this may be
affecting the populations
of BCF in the wild.’
There is, clearly, positive
synergy between all the
parties concerned, and
long may this continue
for the benefit of all,
especially the beautiful
Banggai Cardinalfish
POSTSCRIPT
Shortly after the US team departed,
Gayatri Lilley and her team conducted
monitoring surveys of BCF at Bone Baru,
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I would like to extend
my heartfelt gratitude
to Gayatri Lilley and
Matt Wittenrich for their
invaluable and constant
feedback before, during,
and after the Banggai visit. It is thanks to
them that I have been able to include
much of the information that appears in this
report. Also of great value have been Ret
Talbot’s Banggai trip field updates published
online. Finally, I extend another vote of
thanks to Gayatri, this time for sending
me a number of photographs, along with
permission to use them in this article. JD
ALL PHOTOGRAPHS REPRODUCED BY KIND
COURTESY OF: YAYASAN ALAM INDONESIA
LESTARI (LINI) - THE INDONESIA NATURE
FOUNDATION, EXCEPT WHERE INDICATED
19/08/2012 23:42:54
SAVE OUR REEFS
There are many reasons why the coral
reefs are suffering, and human waste
is one of them. When our trash and
pollutants enter the water, it causes
physical damage to corals, blocks
sunlight from reaching polyps, and
harms the coral reef animals. An
example of this would be discarded
fishing nets which can catch on reefs,
or strangle wildlife. It’s our garbage!
Shouldn’t we take responsibility for it?
In this image, the Thai government
recruit volunteers and divers to cleanup hundreds of miles of their coastline
around Phi Phi Island.
Fish Junkies supports conservation
projects like this through it’s donations,
funded from a percentage of magazine
sales and other activities.
BY MARINE HABITAT
Image courtesy
Lawrence Alex Wu.
070-073_NewsRoundup_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 04:34:27
TRISTAN LOUGHER
Age: 39.
Hometown:
Northwich, UK.
Zoologist.
Marine experience:
15yrs.
Aquarium size: None at
home; I’m responsible
for many aquaria at
Cheshire Waterlife.
Favourite
fish: Yellow Eye Tang.
(Ctenochaetus strigosus).
coral: African Blue Coral
(Cespitularia).
other: Anything but
sea urchins.
Specialist areas:
Species knowledge.
M
O
L
L
Molluscs are one
of the most useful
creatures found
in the aquaria to
help keep your tank
clean. Tristan Lougher
takes a look at his
top molluscs.
U
T
S
C
S
he molluscs are a large and
diverse group of animals
represented by around 100,000
described species, with more certainly
awaiting discovery and description by
taxonomists. Estimates put the total
number of living mollusc species at
150,000. After cnidarians (corals and
anemones) and crustaceans (crabs,
lobsters and shrimp), they are among the
most commonly stocked invertebrates
in marine aquaria, both as specimen
animals, as in the case of tridacnid clams,
and for the useful roles that many perform,
such as the herbivorous snails from genera
including Turbo, Trochus and Astraea. The
basic body plan of all living molluscs is
the same, and yet they show amazing
diversity in form, ranging from sedentary
shelled bivalves to the beautiful and highly
mobile cephalopods. The largest group
of molluscs is the gastropods – the snails
and slugs – which number around 60,000
known species, and therefore it is no
surprise that they are well-represented in
my Top 10 and online Top 20 species. Such
diversity makes it difficult to generalise
about the husbandry, and so after a brief
introduction to the format of the list, it’s
straight on to descriptions of the species.
In common with all the Top 10 lists, this
one is entirely subjective; these are my
favourite molluscs in order of preference.
However, all are available in the hobby
and many are useful additions to reef
aquaria. The exceptions are molluscs
that may require species aquaria in order
to meet their demands, and yet are so
rewarding to keep that many aquarists
are prepared to invest great time and
effort in the husbandry. Apart from these
demanding animals, the remainder of the
Top 10 could all be housed in the same
aquarium and undertake useful roles.
057-063_TOTR_MH010.indd 1
20/08/2012 03:06:16
Top of the Rocks > Tristan Lougher
10
Chitons
Polyplacophora
Chitons are interesting molluscs
that can be found in two distinct
forms in marine aquaria. They
are rarely stocked intentionally,
instead arriving as hitchhikers on
live rock or coral base rock. The
first has eight distinct plates that
make up its upper surface rather
than having a continuous shell. This
is reminiscent of the carapace of
a tortoise and its bony scutes. The
second form can be encountered
with live rock imported from
Indonesia, and is a cigar-shaped
animal with a rough body surface
but still with eight plates, although
these are greatly reduced in size
and have no role in protecting
the animal. The majority of chitons
are herbivorous, feeding on
microalgae that grow on rock
surfaces, although detritivores and
very few predatory species occur.
Those experienced as hitchhikers
9
Bear Paw Clams
Hippopus spp.
In comparison with the beautifully
coloured members of the genus
Tridacna, Bear Paw Clams may
seem like poor relations. They lack
the overhanging mantle of the
former with its often brilliant colour
pigments, and yet Hippopus
spp are among the few bivalve
molluscs that thrive in the nutrientpoor conditions of the majority
of reef aquaria. Their distinctive
shape and preference for living
on loose substrates, such as
are almost certainly herbivorous
and can be welcomed, although
their grazing behaviour tends
to be nocturnal and they don’t
offer much to aquarists in terms
of interest. However, they are
included here as an illustration of
the diversity of the molluscs and to
help readers identify these animals.
sand and rubble in their natural
environment, make them easy
enough to situate on the bottom
of well-lit reef aquariums, where
the photosynthetic pigments
housed within the mantle can
nourish the clam. However, small
regular (daily or every other day)
feedings with fine particulate diets
(nanoplankton) is recommended
for their long-term benefit. Given
good long-term husbandry and
water quality, Hippopus clams are
robust and long-lived, with the
average maximum size being an
impressive 40cm shell length.
8
Mud Snails
Nassarinae
There are several genera of mud snails that may
be imported for the hobby, including Nassarius
and Nassa. They range greatly in size, from
those that peak at less than 6mm shell length to
30mm in other commonly imported species. As
the common name suggests, these gastropod
molluscs tend to live in loose substrates, including
mud and sand, emerging only to feed. They
possess a long trunk-like inhalent siphon; a highly
20/08/2012 03:06:21
7
Astraea Snails
Astraea sp
It would be impossible to list a Top 10 mollusc without
including these herbivorous snails, in spite of the fact that
they are possibly my least favourite algal grazing species.
Often erroneously called turbo snails, the majority of
specimens originate from the tropical west Atlantic and
they are widely available in the hobby. They are certainly
of great use in the prevention of undesirable algae in the
reef aquarium, and yet they are often stocked without
any understanding of their requirements. Recommended
stocking rates vary widely, and it is easy to become
confused with conflicting information regarding the best
numbers to add to a system. The bottom line is that it’s
almost impossible to predict the best numbers to add
to a system because it depends on the amount of light
energy incident on the rockwork and the amount of
nutrients available to fuel algal growth. For me, the best
way to introduce them is in stages, a few at a time, and
monitor them and their consumption of algae. I also
never stock just this one species. Although their small
size, almost ubiquitous availability and relatively cheap
purchase price makes them the herbivore of choice
for many aquarists, they work best in combination with
other grazing snail species that consume other forms of
algae; in this way they complement each other. (See
Turbo spp snails in the Top 10 and Trochus spp online.)
manoeuvrable ‘nose’ with which they
can sense and then locate their food,
which for most species in reef aquaria
consists of dead animal material. This
means mud snails can be of great use
in most marine aquaria because they
seek out uneaten food intended for
fish, and are therefore able to assist
in the cleanliness of the aquarium.
Their second useful role is due to
their activity in the substrate itself.
Their burrowing behaviour can keep
sand free from clogging by detritus
and keep it aerated, and the fact
that they produce carbon dioxide as
they respire can result in the release
of calcium and carbonate in small
quantities. The best species I have
encountered is one that originates
from the Philippines, but unfortunately
I have been unable to identify it
to species level. It measures only
5-6mm in total length when fully
grown, and it’s one of the few species
of mud snail that breeds regularly
and successfully in reef aquaria,
with large populations developing
according to the available amount
of food. They are hardy and robust
and extremely fast-moving for a snail,
responding quickly to the first hint of
food being added to the aquarium.
They emerge from the sand en masse
to seek out stray brine shrimp or
mysis missed by the fish residents.
6
Bumblebee Snails
Pusiostoma mendicaria
These small (usually less than 10mm)
black snails, with their irregular bands of
cream-gold, are attractive gastropods
that often receive a mixed press from
aquarists. This appears due at least in
part to the similarity between the true
bumblebee snail and a predatory whelk
with almost identical shell markings. The
two are often imported together and
can be found side by side in wholesalers’
aquaria. Close scrutiny of the shell
shape should enable you to tell the
difference between the two species;
select only the true bumblebee snail
because this lacks a pointed shell spire
and the shell appears more rounded
with less prominent whorls. Bumblebee
snails are useful scavengers and algal
grazers, particularly in smaller aquaria. For
nano reefs they are excellent because
of their small size, and they lack the
inherent clumsiness of larger Astraea
and Turbo spp herbivorous snails.
20/08/2012 03:06:23
5
Flamboyant Cuttlefish
Metasepia pfefferi
It’s difficult to know where to begin
with a physical description of this
cuttlefish, so I won’t even attempt
it. They are just beautiful to look at,
and if you have the dedication and
budget, are extremely rewarding
to keep. However, ethical concerns
exist regarding their mortality rates
in captivity, and these animals
may be best left to those intent on
captive breeding programmes. Like
many cephalopods, they are best
maintained in species aquaria,
perhaps with a little live rock and
plenty of open substrate because
these are creatures of sandy and
mud bottoms. Although settled
specimens may learn to accept
dead food, access to things such
as live river shrimp or small crabs
is extremely useful. Named for
their incredible colouration and
extensions to the skin of the body,
these are occasional imports into
the UK and command relatively
high prices for such-short lived
animals. They reach 8-10cm (3-4ins)
in length and often creep along
4
sand or rubble substrates rather
than remain neutrally buoyant
and swim like other cuttlefish. One
feature they do share with other
species is their ability to change
colour, an adaptation in this species
used in communication with its
own species and to camouflage
it, but perhaps also to advertise
its toxicity to potential predators.
Turbo Snails
Turbo spp.
Herbivorous snails can be difficult to get
excited about, and in some instances
are avoided by aquarists in favour of
more overtly interesting grazers, such as
dwarf hermit crabs. For me, members of
the genus Turbo, including the Mexican
Turbo Snail (T. fluctuosa and Indo-Pacific
T.brunneus) are must-have additions
to most reef aquaria containing live
rock. These greedy snails consume a
wide range of algae, from film-forming
microalgae and diatoms to filamentous
forms, and some aquarists suggest
that T.fluctuosa may also consume
cyanobacteria. Although potentially
useful in the control of filamentous
algae (you usually have to stock more
individuals than would otherwise be
necessary), I prefer to have these
snails in a preventative role, working
in tandem with other smaller species
such as Trochus sp and Astraea sp.
I’m always conservative in their
stocking because their appetites are
enormous, and starvation is likely
once they have consumed the initial
blooms of algae experienced in new
aquarium setups. Offering stocking
rates is difficult because algal growth
depends on the amount of energy
going into the system, in the form of
light energy and the nutrient levels
in the saltwater. Therefore a staged
introduction of these snails is sensible
– add a couple at a time but not
exceeding one individual per 45 litres
in the short term (their relatively large
size can make this species unsuitable
for nano -aquaria due to their tendency
to knock over sessile invertebrates).
20/08/2012 03:06:27
3
Dove Snails
Euplica spp
This small species of gastropod mollusc,
occasionally identified as a species belonging to
the genus Anachis (more than one species may
make its way into the hobby), reaches around
10mm in shell length and has a dull creamcoloured shell. It’s hardly anything to write home
about in the looks department, and yet it is a
fascinating species of mollusc, not least because
you rarely have to pay for it (if you do, it is worth
the nominal fee), and because it is an excellent
grazer of microalgae in even the smallest aquaria.
Whilst this characteristic is rather useful, the most
interesting feature of this snail is that it is a prolific
breeder in the home aquarium and the offspring,
laid in transparent capsules often deposited on
the aquarium glass, show direct development
without a planktonic larval stage. Thus it is possible
to see (with the help of a hand) the hatching of
the eggs (laid in small clusters of 5-20 or so) within
the capsule, and their progress as they grow into
miniature facsimiles of their parents. When large
enough to fend for themselves (which is still only
2mm or so shell length) they rasp their way out of
the capsule and begin life in the main aquarium.
Where conditions allow, they form relatively large
self-sustaining populations in reef aquaria, and
whilst their impact on the cleanliness of the system
may be difficult to quantify, it must be significant.
2
Tridacna Clams
Tridacna spp
Perhaps the most attractive molluscs of all,
or at least the most beautiful bivalves, are
the clams belonging to the genus Tridacna.
Or rather two or three species that are more
or less regularly imported for the hobby: T.
crocea and T.derasa, which are available
only sporadically, but there are good
numbers of cultured T.maxima and aquarists
have many colour forms to choose from.
The coloured pigments are found in the
mantle of the animal, which extends over
the edges of the valves of the shell, unlike
the Bear Paw Clam (Hippopus spp). This
tissue contains photosynthetic symbionts and
pigments that protect these animals from
harmful ultraviolet radiation, often found in
very shallow water with intense illumination.
Tridacna clams demand excellent water
quality and strong illumination for their
long-term health, and will thrive when
suitably-sized particulate foods are offered.
In common with most bivalves, the gills
of the animal have become enlarged
and modified in form to become food
capture devices with a massive surface
area. Although photosynthetic pigments
provide a proportion of the animals’ dietary
requirements, supplemental feeding has
been shown to be important in the long-term
husbandry of these classy bivalves.
20/08/2012 03:06:32
1
Strawberry Lipped Conch
Strombus luhuanus
Once a rarely encountered import
from the Philippines, the Strawberry
Lipped Conch has become increasingly
available in the hobby over recent
years. The genus Strombus contains
the familiar Fighting Conch (Strombus
alatus), collected for the trade in Florida
and the Caribbean, as well as many
other species only seen occasionally by
aquarists. On the face of it, S.luhuanus
may not appear worthy of its number
one position in my Top 10, but in my
opinion, what it lacks in good looks
it more than makes up for with its
usefulness, and a little close observation
reveals a fascinating creature. Named
for the orange-red lip to the opening
of the shell visible from underneath,
S.luhuanus resides almost exclusively
on sandy substrates in an aquarium
context. (An individual that becomes
CONCLUSION
The Phylum Mollusca contains many
animals that are fabulous creatures for
the home marine aquarium. They offer
beauty, interest and usefulness, and
some might even cost you absolutely
nothing. For me, some species are
more adventurous and starts trying to
scale rockwork is likely to be hungry,
and too many individuals may have
been stocked initially). As it moves
about the substrate it keeps the upper
layers of sand turned over and aerated.
This can assist in
the prevention of
detritus accumulation
and, therefore,
cyanobacteria (slime
algae). When not
active it often buries
itself a little way into
the sand, so increasing
the depths at which
sand becomes
turned over, reducing
compaction. In contrast to many other
creatures frequently sold as sand shifters,
this conch does not appear to consume
any of the natural sand fauna that
develops over time, instead using the
trunk-like proboscis with its terminal mouth
to consume diatoms and microalgae
that encrust the sand surface, keeping it
clear and enhancing its ability to reflect
light back onto the reef. It also seeks
out uneaten food intended for fish.
For me, these conches are the
ideal sand shifters –
wonderful to look at
and highly useful. I
usually stock a single
individual into most
aquaria and then
monitor its progress
in keeping the sand
clean. Occasionally, in
larger systems or where
significant areas are
covered in sand, more
than one specimen is necessary, but
start with one to ensure it doesn’t starve.
Should it begin to stray onto rockwork,
dried seaweed or algae tablets may
be used to supplement its diet, but in
most systems this is not necessary.
not options, they are essential in the
maintenance of a diverse and troublefree reef aquarium. Some, like the
cephalopods, are not for the fainthearted and certainly not for newcomers
to the hobby, whereas others are far
less demanding and earn their keep
in the useful roles that they perform. In
many instances, a number of species
from varied families can be maintained
together and complement each other
perfectly. Indeed, I would go as far as to
say that if you haven’t stocked a mollusc
yet, then why the heck not?! TL
For me, these
conches are the
ideal sand shifters
– wonderful
to look at and
highly useful
20/08/2012 03:06:37
DON’T FORGET
Check out the ones that didn’t make
the Top 10 on our website. Here’s a
quick look at what you will find.
JUST
SCAN!
Use your phone and
scan this QR Code
for quick access
to all our Top of
the Rocks
EXTENDED CONTENT
numbers 11-20.
W W W. M A R I N E H A B I TAT M A G A Z I N E . C O M
20/08/2012 03:06:41
A REVOLUTION?
AutomAted WAter ChAnger
The AWC (Automated Water Changer) cuts out the
need for numerous containers, mixing pumps, manual
siphoning and all the mess that goes with it!
The AWC serves 2 purposes
• Helps pre-mix your salt water.
• Once mixed, the AWC will
slowly integrate the water
with your tank. After an
hour or so, simply throw
away the water and
your water change is
complete, hassle free!
GoinG on holidAy?
Have you ever done a
water change whilst your
on holiday? Well now you
can! Simply pre-mix and set
the AWC to do 1 automated
change whilst your away.
18 litres
Available sizes
30 litres
50 litres
see the
demo
online!
85 litres
www.reefloat.com
FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE VISIT THE WEBSITE
20/08/2012 04:39:15
TROPICAL ZOMBIE
In this issue we learn about the journey of Martyn
ZombieTuesday, who has created an amazing
tank with a keen eye for good parameters and
plenty of hard work to get his tank looking good.
MARTYN
ZOMBIETUESDAY
Forum name:
ZombieTuesday.
Age: 41.
Hometown: Chilwell,
Nottingham.
Occupation:
Web developer.
Marine experience:
4-5 years.
Tank size:
103cm x 45cm x 62cm.
Tank start date:
Around 2 years ago.
Favourite
fish: Clarkii Clown.
coral: Acropora Tenuis.
invert: Hawaiian Hemit.
M
y journey into reefkeeping
started with a simple tropical
tank about 7 years ago. That
tropical tank quickly turned into a Malawi
Cichlid tank, which is as it stayed for
about 3 years. During that time I bought
a small Green Spotted Puffer fish from
a pet shop (I had an old tank in which
I fancied putting something different).
This was, I’m afraid to say, an impulse
buy, and the LFS had no real advice
other than, “brackish water mate.”
On settling the fish into its brackish
home, I started to research it in detail,
and eventually, as the fish got older, I
decided to increase the salt level to
that of natural saltwater (NSW); I had
no real interest in marines before this.
Once I got him up to NSW level (I did
this as a slow process over about 6
months), I started to do a bit more
reading into the world of marines, and
was hooked. I bought a small amount
of live rock for his tank and was amazed
at the things that crawled out from it.
Six years after buying that little puffer
fish, he’s still going strong (in his own
tank now; an Aquael all-in-one in the
kitchen), and when I moved in with
my partner some 2 years or so ago, I
broke down my Malawi tank and set it
up in its new home as a reef tank. The
original idea was FOWLR, but of course,
I started with a few softies, then some
LPS, and eventually caught the SPS
bug – and well, here I am today.
065-069_Hobbyist_MH011.indd 1
19/08/2012 23:47:23
Hobbyist Profile > Martyn ZombieTuesday
In association with
Same tank (I’ve never had the upgrade
bug, as yet), sumpless and skimmerless.
What I love about this hobby is that you
never stop learning, and as you learn,
you get to understand what is going on in
your tank – what its boundaries are and
how far you can push your setup. I don’t
feel like I have taken my tank to its peak
as yet, so although I sometimes yearn for
a sump and somewhere to dose/hide
equipment or a decent-sized refugium/
skimmer, I don’t feel the burning need
to break it all down and start again.
I think a surprising amount can be
accomplished without a lot of the tech we
usually see attached to reef tanks today.
That’s not to say this tech isn’t a good
thing and we don’t need it, it’s just that
things can be done another way, most
of the time. That said, I would never rule
out a skimmer or a sump, or in fact, any
piece of equipment if I found I could no
longer keep up with nutrients and the extra
maintenance such a low-tech tank requires.
It was at this point I started
to really take notice of
parameters other than
nitrate, nitrite, ammonia and
phosphate, and I found a
whole world of fascinating
tank chemistry to learn about
I started to read a lot of online
information, and found The Salty Box.
After reading other reefers’ tank threads
and looking at some of the stunning tanks
people were keeping, it really made me
want to go for hard corals. I started adding
a few extra lights, etc., and got hold of
some of the easier to keep frags. My first lot
was a Duncan, an Australian Torch, a piece
of orange Monti Plate, and a Blue Tipped
Formosa frag, all of which I still have. In
fact, the Formosa is taking over the tank!
It was at this point I started to really
take notice of parameters other than
nitrate, nitrite, ammonia and phosphate,
and I found a whole world of fascinating
tank chemistry to learn about and get
my teeth into. My initial dosing was by
hand. When usage became too much
for that, I made some drip pots out of
old carbon pots and RO tubes and taps.
These would take a good 4 or 5 hours
to drip in if I set the tap tight enough. Of
course, eventually even that became not
enough to keep up with the demand.
Today my dosing is taken care of by a
Kamoer 3-channel dosing pump, which is
currently dosing 12g of bicarb and 6.5g
of Seachem Reef Advantage Calcium
a day, which keeps my levels nice and
stable. I have recently started dosing
TheReef Iron and Seachem Reef Iodide
into the tank at a rate of 2.5ml each a
day, and I’m noticing an improvement
in both the growth of the Caulerpa and
19/08/2012 23:47:28
In association with
Maintenance-wise,
I am very strict, and
once a week I do a
30ltr water change via
a Reefloat AWC30 Pro
also the colours of my corals. I am testing
the iodide on a daily basis with the Salifert
Iodine test kit, and slowly working out the
usage of iodide in my tank. When I have
it nailed I will switch to dosing from the
dosing pump rather than by hand (2.5ml
seems to be keeping the iodide steady
somewhere between 0.3 and 0.6). I am
now also testing for potassium, but have
not as yet had to dose because it seems
to hover around 450-470 on its own.
The heart of my tank’s filtration system is
live rock coupled with a deep sand bed
and an external Fluval 305 filter (which
I use for chemical filtration these days,
normally carbon, Rowaphos and Purigen).
I also have a small hang-on LittleOcean/
Chippypah phosphate reactor on the
side of the tank, which I use for extra
phosphate removal media if it ever creeps
up (normally AquaPhos XL). It is powered
by a 400ltr an hour Hydor Pico Pump. Flow
is taken care of by a Vortech MP40 on one
side, set at about 3/4 power (reef crest
mode), with a 300ltr Hydor Koralia on the
other side, just to break it up a bit. Lighting
is taken care of by an All Pond Solutions
6-tube t5 fitting, and a pair of Blue Aqua
Rays. The Photoperiod is 10 hours for the
main lights and 12 for the Aqua Rays.
I have a Cleartides hang-on refugium on
the side of the tank, which is lit on a reverse
photoperiod. It contains mineral mud, very
fine sand, and a small-leafed Caulerpa,
which grows very fast, although I am
considering changing for Cheatomorpha.
Evaporation is taken care of by an ATUPRO, with the reservoir being a 25ltr plastic
jerry can; this lasts me about 2 weeks.
I also buffer the top-up water in this to
about 9.6 so that my doser is not battling a
constant influx of very low alk RO/DI water.
Maintenance-wise, I am very strict, and
once a week I do a 30ltr water change via
a Reefloat AWC30 Pro. Once a fortnight I
also crack open the external filter (this is my
least favourite part of maintenance) and
change one each of the bags of carbon,
Rowa, and, if needed, Purigen
(I have two bags of each in the filter).
19/08/2012 23:47:31
In association with
19/08/2012 23:47:43
In association with
MARTYN’S TANK SPECS
TANK SPECS
TANK: Fluval Osaka 260ltr.
DIMENSIONS: 103cm x 45cm x 62cm.
LIGHTING: 39W 6-tube All Pond Solutions T5
pendant in black, 2x Blue Aquarays.
WATER DISTURBANCE: One Vortech MP40,
and one Hydor Koralia 3000 plus about
800ltr/h return from my external filter.
SKIMMER: None.
CAPACITY: 260ltr.
CAPACITY WITH ROCK: Around 220-230ltr.
ROCK: Around 25kg mixed and around
5kg of ocean rock.
SUBSTRATE: 4-5ins fine aragonite in the
display, with 2ins of mineral mud and
some sugar-fine sand in the refugium.
SUMP: None.
WATER: Osmotics 300ltr a day (2x 150Gpd
Membranes) about 12-13ltr a week
evaporation, with 30ltr water changes
(RSCP) at 35ppt.
ADDITIVES: Koralia triple dosing pump
dosing – bicarb (sometimes use Salifert KH
+ pH buffer for infrequent adjustments),
Seachem Reef advantage calcium (also
dies strontium and magnesium), Seachem
Reef Iodide and TheReef Chealted Iron.
LIVESTOCK
FISH: A pair of Clarkii Clowns, one Cherub
My reasoning is that this hopefully ensures
there is always active organic removal
and phos media in the filter. I also check
dKH every day (the only way to prevent a
swing, in my opinion, is if you know what it
is and can act accordingly), and the rest
of my tests are done on a weekly basis.
For me, the battle against nutrients starts
at source with the water. I did initially buy
RO water from various LFS around the
area, but found none of it to be up to
scratch. So I eventually obtained an RO/
DI machine from LittleOcean, which has
been constantly added to and upgraded.
I am now running a 4-stage Osmotics unit
with two 150ltr a day membranes. I run
this into a repurposed pickle barrel with
an auto shut-off switch to save floods. The
barrel is in a constant state of being used
and refilled, so having it sitting around is
Angel, one small Kole Tang, one Cleaner
Wrasse, one Yellow Wrasse.
INVERTS: Two True Mexican Turbos, about
seven Astrea and Spiny Astrea Snails, three
Mithrax Crabs, about seven Red Legged
Hermits, one Blue Legged Hermit, one
Pom Pom Crab, one Hawaiian Hermit, one
Porcelain Crab, one Cleaner Shrimp and a
Sexy Shrimp (in the fuge), numerous Acro
Crabs living in the Acros.
CORALS
SOFT: Some blue, red and green
mushrooms, some green and some
orange and red Zoas, some Ricordea and
a Rhodactis Mushroom, Pipe Organ Coral,
and some blue/green sympodium.
LPS: Yellow Tipped Aussie Torch, Duncans,
Pink Tipped Hammer, Fluoro Green Candy
Cane, Black Sun Coral, Orange Sun Coral,
Purple and Yellow Turbinaria Green War
Coral, Blue/Green/Red Favia, and a blue/
green Maze Coral.
SPS: Many – various Acros and Milliporas
(Blue Tipped Stag, Green Stag with
blue tips, Nanas, Green Millis, Fire Millis,
etc), Stylophora Pistillata, Pocillopora
Damicornis, various Monti Digitatas and
Caps, Montipora Hirsuta, Montipora Mollis.
not something I worry about. DI Resin is
changed as soon as TDS creeps up to 1.
Feeding-wise, I tend to feed a pinch of
dried food and a wave of Cyclopeeze
or Calanus every day, and two cubes
of varied frozen every other day. I also
put in a pea-sized amount of DD Reef
Paste at night. I do vary the feeding
regime from time to time and try
different foods and feeding amounts.
Problem-wise, I have had the normal
I finally conquered this
infestation, but it was
really labour-intensive
and involved getting rid
of 90% of my Montipora
run of algaes, cyano, etc., all dealt
with in their term, normally naturally,
although when I changed salts from
Red Sea Standard to Red Sea Coral Pro,
it caused a cyano outbreak that I just
could not shift. Eventually I ended up
resorting to Cyano RX, which as a last
resort I consider an excellent product. I
am actually considering changing back
to Red Sea Standard because I find the
Kamoer doser so adept at keeping the
levels stable. To my mind, RSCP’s inflated
calcium, dKH and magnesium levels
are just too high to run at, although it’s
a great salt for those relying on weekly
water changes to keep up their levels.
The most destructive problem I have
FEEDING REGIME
• One pinch of dried food (I vary this
between different pellet types,
New Era, etc.)
• A small amount of Cyclopeeze or
Calanus waved in the tank every day
• One pea-sized amount of DD reef paste
squashed to the glass every night
• Two cubes of frozen food every other
day (varied types) – fed to the sun corals
but allowed to flow around for the fish
and other LPS to grab
TANK STATS
SALINITY: 35ppt DD refractometer
CALCIUM: 420-430 Salifert test
DKH: 9-9.6 (I’m aiming to lower this into the
8s when I change my salt type) (Hannah
Alkilinty Checker and Salifert Test)
PH: 8 (HM Digital pH meter)
PHOSPHATE: 0-0.03 (Hannah Phos Checker,
DD kit)
NITRATE: 0-0.2 (Salifert test kit)
POTASSIUM: 450 (Salifert test kit)
IODIDE (0.6 Salifert test kit)
had in the tank to date is a bout of aeolid
Montipora eating Nudibranches, which
along with Acropora eating flatworms,
seems to be a real problem in the hobby.
I finally conquered this infestation, but it
was really labour-intensive and involved
getting rid of 90% of my Montipora.
Removal of these pests involved removing
all Monti from the main display, and
dipping in Coral RX on a daily basis. If
I’m to be honest, this did not work at all.
I ended up dumping most of it, and the
few bits I did keep I attacked brutally with
a toothbrush and dip for several weeks.
I added a yellow wrasse to the system
(I actually saw this at work; I will never
keep a tank without some of these in
again). When I thought all was clear, I
puttied over the backs and bases of all
remaining Monti (to fill in any hidey-holes
and ridges) and kept them all up on a
frag rack at the top of the tank. I then
observed them for 3-4 weeks, and when
I was sure none were left, I reintroduced
them to the main display, but without
puttying them into place. I now keep
them loose. If I ever get this problem
again I really do not want to be chipping
Monti off the rocks again. We all need
to be vigilant and know what to look for
and how to treat it if we are to overcome
these current problems in the hobby.
I would like to thank everyone who
has helped me so far, and especially
my partner Sophy, who has spent far too
much time listening to me waffle on, and
driving me to various far-flung LFSs. MZ
19/08/2012 23:47:46
MARIA GROGAN’S
NEWS FROM AROUND THE WORLD THAT MATTERS TO YOU
© Mark Misenheimer
| Dreamstime.com
Image courtesy of
Blue Reef Aquarium.
BABY SOUTHERN
STINGRAYS BORN AT
BLUE REEF AQUARIUM
A quartet of southern stingrays has been
born at Newquay’s Blue Reef Aquarium.
Newquay is thought to be one of the only
aquariums in the country to be successfully
breeding this species of stingray in captivity.
The breeding programme is so successful
that these latest arrivals will join more
than a dozen siblings which have been
born in the last 4 years. Blue Reef’s Jenni
Smith said: “We’re delighted with the new
arrivals, which are being looked after in our
quarantine area after having been born
in our main ocean display. If all goes well
we plan to send some of the offspring to
our sister aquarium in Bristol, where they will
eventually be able to form part of a satellite
breeding programme for the species.”
MUTANT LOBSTERS
CAUGHT IN CORNWALL
A Cornish fisherman has hauled up
two mutant lobsters in his pots. Both
crustaceans were caught in the pots
of Mylor fisherman Ned Bailey, on his
boat the FV ‘Francis B’. The first lobster
has three cutting claws on its left pincer,
and the second lobster has two sets of
crushing claws. Despite their unusual claw
formations, both lobsters appear to be in
excellent health, and their rarity has almost
certainly saved them from the pot.
It’s not unheard of for a lobster to be found
with some kind of mutation to its claws,
but it’s really quite unusual for two to have
been hauled up in the pots of the same
fisherman. As these lobsters were found
close to each other, there’s a chance
that there may be some kind of shared
genetic mutation carried within a group of
related crustaceans. Lobsters are among
the planet’s oldest inhabitants, with fossil
remains found dating back more than
100 million years. They are also extremely
long-lived, with some individuals reaching
ages in excess of 60 years. The lobsters’
prey consists of crabs, which are grabbed
by the legs using the cutter claw, while
the crusher claw is usually used to break
open the carapace. Other prey includes
mussels, clams, sea urchins, starfish and
marine worms. In good visibility lobsters
can also catch fast-moving prey such
as shrimps and small fish. As with most
members of the crustacean family, lobsters
are also able to regrow lost limbs, and
even regenerate missing eyes.
Newquay is thought
to be one of the only
aquariums in the country
to be successfully
breeding this species
of stingray in captivity
Found throughout the tropical and
subtropical waters of the southern Atlantic
Ocean, the Caribbean and Gulf of
Mexico, they mainly feed on shrimp,
small fish and bivalves such as clams. In
order to find prey buried in the seabed,
they force jets of water through their
mouths to blast away the sand. Southern
stingrays have a gestation period of
about 6 months. The eggs hatch within
the mother’s body and the pups are born
folded up like a newspaper. Fully grown
females can reach lengths of up to 2m,
and the heaviest recorded specimen
weighed more than 135kg. Although
southern stingrays are not under threat
in the wild, at least nine other species of
stingrays are at high risk of extinction.
20/08/2012 03:50:53
FOR MORE NEWS GO TO
WWW.MARINEHABITATMAGAZINE.COM
PIRANHA TAKES TIP OF
TODDLER’S FINGER
A little girl is recovering after she stuck her
hand into the family fish tank at their Maine
township home in USA, and a piranha bit off
the tip of her finger. “The 18-month-toddler
was at home in the Bay Colony residential
complex,” said Frank Bilecki, a spokesman
for Cook County Sheriff Tom Dart. “The
parents heard their daughter crying and
rushed over to find her finger bleeding. They
assumed the culprit was their 65lb family
pit bull, but a hospital doctor soon realised
this was not the case. The child’s father
cut open one of the two piranhas and
found the tip of her finger inside, and it was
rushed to the hospital to be reattached.”
Bilecki said he did not know if the
tank, which was close to where the
girl was playing, was covered or how
the child got access to it. The Illinois
Department of Children and Family
Services was called to make sure there
were no issues; Bilecki said that it was his
understanding that there were none.
The most common type of piranha
sold in pet shops is the red belly, which
can grow up to 8ins long, with a mouth
the diameter of a shot glass. It’s not
clear what type of piranha bit the girl.
NEW MAIDENHEAD
STORE COMING SOON!
Maidenhead Aquatics recently announced
their newest store, which opened at the end
of July 2012 at High Leigh Garden Centre,
Knutsford, Cheshire. They are looking
forward to offering all their customers a
wide and comprehensive selection of
freshwater and marine livestock, as well
as many exclusive products available
only from the Maidenhead Aquatics
group, such as the AquaOak aquariums.
The store will initially only feature dry
NEWS IN BRIEF
TREAT FOR A FISHLOVING FRIEND?
Why not treat that special fishkeeper in
your life with a new gift card, available
in all Maidenhead Aquatics stores. There
is a customer loyalty scheme and you
can load it with cash online or in store.
MASSIVE ATTACK
Beachgoers in San Diego, California
are being warned to be extra vigilant
when in the sea, after a whopping 41
people were stung by stingrays in one
day. Just one was taken to hospital
while others were treated locally.
REGGAE REGGAE…
goods, with the intention of having a fully
stocked fish house by October 2012.
Paul Sikkel, an assistant professor
of marine ecology, and a field
marine biologist at Arkansas State
University, discovered a new species
of gnathiid isopod — a small parasitic
crustacean — and named it after
the late reggae star Bob Marley.
For further updates and information
on this store, please check the
website: www.fishkeeper.co.uk
FIVE-YEAR-OLD SWIMS
WITH SHARKS
ELOS AQUASTUDIO NEW YORK,
AN LFS ON ANOTHER LEVEL.
A video on You Tube of a 5-year old
girl swimming with sharks whilst on
holiday in the Bahamas has sparked a
debate among parents and Internet
users. View the video at: http://youtu.be/
a4ThoO1Rq2c and share your views.
Until May of 2012 the Elos AquaStudio™
was largely a European reality, with only
a couple of stores outside of Europe and
nothing in North America. In December of
2010, they began the search to find what
would be the first location in the US. By April
of 2011, they selected Short Hills, NJ and
began the process of building. Fast forward
a year, a huge effort by all those that
shared the vision of making this the best Elos
AquaStudio™ for a market that has been so
good for the Elos brand and now have Elos
AquaStudio™ New York ready for business.
Find out more at www.elosusa.com
In December of 2010,
they began the search
to find what would be
the first location in the
US. By April of 2011, they
selected Short Hills, NJ...
20/08/2012 03:50:55
FOR MORE NEWS GO TO
Image courtesy
of Blue Reef.
AQUARIUM WELCOMES WRINKLED SWIMMER
“As we’re located on Towan Beach,
Newquay’s Blue Reef Aquarium is looking
we’ve already had plenty of comments
after a bright red wrinkled swimmer after
that you just have to look out of the
he was donated by local fishermen.
window to spot a wrinkled
However, visitors needn’t be
swimmer, but the
alarmed – the swimmer in
The last crab
crustaceans are actually
question is actually a type
discovered in Cornwall only rarely seen,” said
of rarely-seen crustacean.
was found more than Blue Reef’s Jenni Smith.
It’s only the second time
the aquarium has been
3 years ago, and that “It easy to see how the
given this particular species
was only the third to be species got its common
name, although it’s also
of swimming crab, and
officially recorded in known as a corrugated
aquarists are monitoring
it in quarantine before it
more than a century crab. Its red colouration
is to help it blend in
goes on public display.
with its underwater habitat to escape
The crab was accidentally caught in the
the unwanted attentions of wouldpots of Mylor fishermen, Cameron and
be predators,” she added.
Ivor Henry, while fishing off St Mawes.
Get ready for
a weekend of
festival fun.
Until recently the species was virtually
never found in southwest waters. The last
crab discovered in Cornwall was found
more than 3 years ago, and that was only
the third to be officially recorded in more
than a century. The species, Liocarcinus
corrugatus, grows to a maximum of
6cm, is reddish-brown in colour, and is
mainly nocturnal. It is also known as the
maerl crab, as it is often found among
maerl, a type of calcified red seaweed.
Despite its diminutive size, the crab can
be highly aggressive. It has been known
to attack divers with its sharp claws. The
wrinkled swimmer is one of three species
of swimming crab to be found in British
waters, although it is the least common.
FESTIVAL WEEKEND
If you are looking for a weekend of fun,
beautiful fish, and a catch-up with some
old faces, then look no further than the
Festival of Fishkeeping; it takes place
on October 26th-28th at Sand Bay
Leisure Resort, Weston-super-Mare. With
competitions taking place throughout the
weekend, entrants need to be booked
in and preregistered by September 28th.
An added attraction will celebrate the
Diamond Jubilee. Diamond classes have
been included at societies’ open shows
throughout the season, and class winners
will be eligible for a diamond-class final.
Accommodation deals have been
arranged, and half-board for a 2-night
weekend is £110; a 3-night weekend costs
£130. You can book via Grace Nethersell,
8 Acacia Avenue, Brentford, Middlesex
TW8 8NR, or telephone 0208 847 3586.
Entry is free to day visitors on the
Saturday and Sunday. Each day visitor
will be given a Lucky Draw door ticket
on arrival at the festival. The draw will be
made at 4.00 p.m. and the lucky winner
will receive specially donated gifts.
20/08/2012 03:50:57
FOR MORE NEWS GO TO
Image courtesy
of The Deep.
OLYMPIC GLORY FOR
THE DEEP AQUARIUM
After the Olympic Torch was lit and it set
off from The Deep aquarium in Hull on
June 19th, a lasting commemoration
of the occasion has been enjoyed by
visitors, with a special attraction being
launched — Torch coral! The Deep’s
very own living torch, the Euphyllia torch
coral, is an amazing species that has long
flowing tentacles with glowing yellow tips.
Like the famous flame, the Torch coral
glows day and night, making a wonderful
addition to The Deep’s living coral display.
The underwater torch will be glowing
brightly long after the games are over.
The coral is on display as part of The
Deep’s magnificent underwater garden,
encased in an impressive 4.5m-wide tank.
In the wild this species can be found on
coral reefs in the Indo Pacific, Australian
and Indian Oceans and, more rarely, in
the Red Sea. The long finger-like tentacles
of the coral end in coloured rounded
tips, where a high concentration of
stinging cells (nematocysts) is located.
These are used for capturing floating
zooplankton, and because the tentacles
remain extended, they can also be
used defensively against predators and
to prevent other corals from settling too
close. Euphyllia glabrescens is classed
as ‘Near Threatened’ on the International
Union for Conservation of Nature Red
List, and this exhibition forms part of
The Deep’s conservation, education
and research work to help protect
the world’s oceans and its species.
Euphyllia glabrescens is
classed as ‘Near Threatened’
on the International Union for
Conservation of Nature Red List,
and this exhibition forms part
of The Deep’s conservation...
BABY CUTTLEFISH HATCH
EN ROUTE TO AQUARIUM
Marine experts at Newquay’s Blue
Reef Aquarium are looking after more
than a dozen tiny baby cuttlefish.
The cuttlefish, which came from the
Marine Biological Association in Plymouth,
were due to be transported to the
aquarium as eggs. However, during the
journey, eight of the eggs hatched out
into babies, much to the surprise of the
accompanying aquarist. Blue Reef’s Jenni
Smith, said: “Cuttlefish eggs are known
as sea grapes due to their shape and
colour. We were delighted when the MBA
donated them to us, but it was a major
shock for them to actually start hatching
out on the journey back to Blue Reef!
The ones which have already
hatched out are all doing well,
and are exact miniature replicas
of the adults. We’re expecting
the remaining eggs to hatch out
within the next couple of days.”
Although they are believed to
be highly intelligent, cuttlefish are
relatively short-lived creatures, with a
maximum life span of 18 months. For
females the situation is even worse
because they breed only once and
die soon after laying their eggs.
20/08/2012 03:51:00
MARINE FISH ROOMS:
BUILDING THE ARKS
Mike Hoang cultures
his rotifers in 5-gallon
buckets underneath his
clownfish larval tanks.
074-079_FishRooms_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 02:52:15
Marine Fish Rooms > Matt Pedersen
MATT PEDERSEN
Age: In my 30s.
Hometown:
Chicago, IL, USA
(currently in Duluth, MN).
ABOVE/LEFT/BELOW Part of Kate Breimayer’s
freshwater aquariums are tucked away in a
larger spare closet.
Interactive software
developer.
Marine experience:
24 years.
Aquarium size:
Multiple aquaria totalling
700 US gallons.
Favourite
fish: Too many to mention.
coral: Hot Pink Birdsnest
(Seriatopora hystrix).
other: Nudibranch
(Elysia diomedia).
Specialist areas:
Marine fish breeding.
We have all wanted to get a bigger tank, but have
you thought about a dedicated fish room? Matt
Pedersen investigates a growing trend in the US
where hobbyists are creating their own fish rooms.
I
’ve spent the last 3 years visiting some
of the elusive marine fish rooms around
the US. There really aren’t many out there,
largely because the act of breeding marine
fish as a hobby is still only a tiny fraction of
what most marine aquarists are doing at
home. On the freshwater side of the hobby,
fish rooms are commonplace and offer a
good basis of understanding. My mission
was to determine the best way to set up a
fish room, with the ultimate goal of being
able to convey an easy-to-follow recipe for
success. What I found out is that there aren’t
any universal answers,
only universal questions.
This series is based
largely on a Marine Fish
Rooms presentation
I’ve given to local and
national fish clubs for
the past year, and is the
culmination of what I’ve
learned from others, as
well as what I applied in
my own fish room. I’m
going to look at those universal questions,
identify the rare answers when they do
exist, but mainly I’ll identify a framework for
tackling what can be a very intimidating
project. My goal is to get you past the
intimidation, and I hope to inspire you. You
really can create your own fish room; there
are just many ways to put it all together.
tanks, either for display or for functional
fishkeeping. Propagation is generally
the mission in a fish room, and they are
always custom-made because everyone
has a unique location for them. At the
hobbyist level, fish rooms always end
up being do-it-yourself (DIY) projects.
A fish room is more than just a space;
it’s an indulgent embrace of your hobby. It
requires a little bit of insanity – and spousal
permission. You are past the point of
dabbling in the hobby when you decide
you’re going to create a fish room, but
know that you are
getting into a real fulltime commitment. It is
very helpful to know that
you have a supportive
partner at home, not
to mention a local
hobbyist or two who
you can entrust your fish
room to when you’re
away (and I strongly
suggest paying them
to fish-sit!). If you’re going solo, you
may have to give up travelling!
There are five aquarium systems
generally installed into a fish room:
quarantine, broodstock systems for
housing adult fish, food culture systems,
larviculture systems dedicated to
dealing with the needs of larval fish, and
growout systems for growing and housing
juvenile fish before passing them on.
Understand this one very important
aspect of running a fish room; if you raise
1,000 clownfish, you’re not going to keep
A fish room is more
than just a space; it’s
an indulgent embrace
of your hobby. It
requires a little bit
of insanity – and
spousal permission
THE FISH ROOM DEFINED
To be clear, a fish room is not a filter room
or a place for a frag tank. A fish room is
a space dedicated to housing multiple
1,000 clownfish – you have to do something
with them. Like it or not, ultimately you are
starting some sort of small-scale business
if your fish room is used for breeding. So a
fish room is more than a space, more than
a desire, and more than the fish and tanks
– it’s a long-term commitment that does
require a lot of planning. This is perhaps the
biggest pitfall of running a fish room – the
moment you take what you love and turn it
into a business, the fun can vanish because
it just becomes work. To avoid this, I suggest
two things. Firstly, go into this slowly, and
secondly, don’t lie to yourself about the likely
costs. Ask yourself if you are able to self-fund
it or if you’re starting a full-blown business.
There is nothing wrong with either, but be
sure to answer this question before you start.
WHAT MOTIVATES PEOPLE TO
CREATE FISH ROOMS?
Keeping fish usually starts as a hobby, and
then one of them lays eggs. You think, ‘Wait
a second, I’m gonna breed something!’
You raise some babies and enjoy it, so you
do it again, and again. At some point in this
process you start to realise that your ad-hoc
solutions aren’t going to cut it any more
and you’re running out of space. It is at this
point when most people pull back, but for
the select few a fish room starts to form like
water condensing out of thin air, and before
you know it, it’s quite literally raining in your
basement (in my case, as condensation
dripping from cold water pipes!).
FRESHWATER FISH ROOMS
Freshwater hobbyists have been running
out of space for a long time, and
that’s how the fish room was born. I’ve
noticed there is often little overlap; very
few people keep both marine and
freshwater aquariums. That said, we can
learn from the freshwater hobby. We
need to ask, “How did they do it?”
20/08/2012 02:52:21
A panoramic view
of Kate Breimayer’s
fish room.
A lot of the freshwater fish rooms are
run very economically with just air-driven
filtration. Aquarists install a big central
blower, and everything is driven with air.
We avoid air-driven filtration in the marine
world because it creates a lot of salt
creep and salt spray. Water changes in
the freshwater world are generally very
cheap and easy, so filtration can be very
basic and rudimentary, simply to keep
things going between water changes.
Water changes in the marine world aren’t
nearly as convenient and
affordable. These are two
of the most fundamental
differences between how
our freshwater forefathers
did it, and how to run
a marine fish room.
to spend a couple of hours per week, but
for a small business, you’re probably looking
at every waking moment of your time.
SO WHERE ARE YOU GOING TO PUT
THIS, OR IN THE CASE OF MY WIFE,
WHERE AM I GOING TO HIDE IT ALL?
SPARE ROOMS: Spare rooms are a popular
option, however, there are some downsides.
They often don’t have an easily accessible
water supply and they aren’t generally
moisture-resistant. If a spare room is on the
second floor, it really isn’t
worth the associated risk.
BASEMENTS: Basements
are among the most
popular locations. They are
naturally cooler than other
settings so are good for
temperature moderation.
They often have concrete
floors, making them
resilient to spills and drips,
and sometimes even
have floor drains built in.
GARAGES: A less common
option, but one that
can work well if there is a possibility you
may not want the fish room later. Tear
it all down, and it is converted right
back to a garage. Feasibility is likely to
centre around issues of heating and
cooling, as well as water availability.
DEDICATED STRUCTURES: A somewhat
extreme option is to use an entirely
separate building. I have seen fish rooms in
outbuildings, old farm buildings, converted
artist studios, even brand new barns and
sheds purpose-built for housing a fish
room. Obviously building codes come
into play, but if you are starting from
scratch, you give yourself the greatest
For a small hobby
room, expect to
spend a couple of
hours per week, but
for a small business,
you’re probably
looking at every
waking moment
of your time
A SELF-ASSESSMENT – DO
YOU HAVE WHAT IT TAKES
TO BUILD A FISH ROOM?
You’ll need some skills,
and for each skill you lack,
expect to either learn
it or pay someone else
to do the work. Plumbing, carpentry and
electrical skills are among the requirements,
along with a general DIY ability. Creativity
and problem-solving skills are also valuable
assets. There’s also the money to consider.
When I asked fish room keepers, “What
did it cost you to set up your fish room?” I
was given a range, anywhere from £1,200
(2,000 USD) for a very small hobby room,
up to £40,000 (60,000 USD) for a small
business. Then there are the ongoing
monthly expenditures, which ranged from
£60 (100 USD) to £1,200 (2000 USD) per
month. Finally, time is a major unavoidable
investment. For a small hobby room, expect
chance for complete customisation.
WHAT ARE THE CONSIDERATIONS
FOR THE FISH ROOM LOCATION?
WEIGHT: We like to say, “Water weighs 8lb
per gallon,” but when you consider the tank,
the stands, the filtration and the décor, it’s
more likely that it’s 15lb, or maybe even
20lb per gallon – maybe even more?
Obviously, that’s a lot of weight to contend
with, so you have to investigate – what kind
of floor do you have? Can it really support
the weight you intend to place on it, or will
you have to reinforce the existing structure?
WATER: Do you need to plumb water into
the room or do you already have it? Think
about features like utility sinks and floor
drains. Where are you going to put RODI,
and where will you store the water you
20/08/2012 02:52:30
David Durr’s ‘Clownhouse’
- a backyard building
housing his former
clownfish hatchery.
ELECTRICAL: Do you have enough electrical
service for the equipment you intend to
run? Will that electrical service, and the way
you’ve built it, stand up to the humidity?
Will it stand up to salt spray? Drip loops are
obviously essential. Think about electrical
backups, because once again I’m not
talking about one tank of fish, it might be
dozens or hundreds. If the power goes
out for any length of time, you need to
be prepared (you’re not going to be able
to just sit there, pour water, and pray).
By looking at other people’s
fish rooms, I discovered the
wisdom of putting electric
outlets at the ceiling
level; water doesn’t
run upwards.
It’s already part of
the building code in
many places, but when
This portable GFCI is easily
setting up your fish room,
installed; just plug it in. The
use GFCIs (ground fault
downside? This happens to
circuit interrupters). It’s a
be a model that trips when
the power flickers, requiring
no-brainer; you can buy
a manual reset.
portable ones if you don’t
already have them installed. But
save your life – don’t get shocked to
death – use a GFCI. However, there is one
little thing you need to check – test a single
GFCI to ensure that it doesn’t trip if the
power is simply shut off. If it does, and you
use these throughout your fish room, as I
did, a simple power flicker in the middle of
the night will leave your systems off for hours.
TEMPERATURE CONTROL: Do you heat the
room (which is cheaper) or heat the tanks
(which allows for individual control)? In my
case, I like to heat the tanks because I
The freshwater and saltwater
can keep some fish warmer than others.
holding systems of Brain
If you’re located in a warmer climate,
Broughten are located in his
cooling may be a greater concern. You’re
garage workshop.
make? How are you going to mix up the
saltwater, and how are you going to dispose
of waste water? Are you going to be able
to recycle water? Remember, salt costs
money. As marine aquarists, we can’t simply
rely on large and frequent water changes
for keeping our fish in good condition. If
you are running a few thousand gallons of
saltwater, think about the expense incurred
to make that water and then start throwing
it down the drain doing regular water
changes – it adds up really
quickly. Some people are
starting to think about
ways to recycle
or to reuse their
water, instead of
just throwing it
down the drain.
probably going to be trying to cool the
entire room because it’s a lot cheaper
(and more comfortable for you!) than to
try to run a chiller on every single system.
HUMIDITY AND MOISTURE: There will be
water everywhere, so you’re going to be
dealing with abnormal levels of humidity
and moisture. Can your floor handle
repeated spills? How will you protect the
space itself from moisture (you don’t want
to have a mould problem!)? How will you
handle humidity? Are you going to run
multiple dehumidifiers? If you do, is there
a way to have them continuously draining
so you don’t have to manually empty
them every day? There’s also a wonderful
invention called a Heat Recovery Ventilator.
To perhaps oversimplify, they are generally
in-wall units that allow you to vent out
humidity and bring in less damp air, while
maintaining the temperature difference
between the room and the external air.
MARINE FISH ROOM SYSTEMS
– HOUSING YOUR FISH
Once you’ve figured out the space,
you still have to build the aquarium
systems. I mentioned that there are
generally five systems we deal with –
QUARANTINE: Many hobbyists play a game
of roulette with their aquariums, and skip
quarantine. However, when you’re setting
up a fish room, skipping quarantine isn’t an
option. Make one mistake and you could
wipe out everything, killing hundreds or
thousands of fish. Quarantine aquariums
and systems must be truly isolated; simply
placing fish in an empty tank connected
to a central filtration system isn’t a valid
approach. Quarantine need not be a large
system; it need only be able to handle
a slow trickle of fish as you introduce
20/08/2012 02:52:39
them to your system. You only need
one or two stand-alone aquariums with
nothing more than bare bottoms, some
PVC pipe segments for structure, a heater,
filter and lid. You need to use dedicated
peripherals – that means separate nets,
containers, hoses. To share these tools
between quarantine and other systems
would put things at great risk. Ultimately,
the risk of bringing new fish into a fish room
can cause some aquarists to take extreme
measures. This can range from establishing
quarantine in an entirely different area of
the home, or even making the decision
to practise abstinence – no new fish are
permitted in the fish room any longer.
BROODSTOCK SYSTEMS: Broodstock systems
are where to house the truly irreplaceable
fish. They are generally moderately stocked,
primarily designed to segregate breeding
pairs from each other. That said, each tank
within a broodstock system may house
multiple compatible pairs; for example,
a clownfish pair and a dottyback pair.
While I have seen aquarists mixing
breeders and their offspring, the main
goal of having a dedicated broodstock
system is to keep the broodstock isolated
from the heavily-polluted water of a
growout system. Additionally, broodstock
systems can be designed for flexibility
and diversity of species, or you can
custom-tailor the systems to meet the
needs of particular species. That may
mean small tanks for small species, tall
tanks for pelagic spawners, or large tanks
for broodstock that needs space.
LARVICULTURE SYSTEMS: Larviculture
systems are designed to meet the needs of
larval fish. You’re likely to incorporate black
round tubs and other special rearing vessels
(we don’t rear a lot of larval marine fish in
glass tanks these days). Larviculture systems
are designed for low flow to prevent baby
fish from being washed into the filtration.
They may be designed to allow individual
tanks or tubs to be taken off the central
filtration system and
run as a stand-alone
tank – this generally
requires dedicated
heaters and air feeds
in each tank/tub for
water circulation.
As the larval fish
grow, a slow drip of
The author’s
black-round-tub
larviculture system,
as it was initially
established in 2010.
clean filtered water may
be introduced to the
environment, and slowly,
over time, the tank is
brought online so that the
larvae can benefit from the filtration and
water stability that the system provides.
GROWOUT SYSTEMS: Systems designed for
growout are built to handle heavy loads.
After all, you’re going to put tons of fish
in any growout system you run. There is a
benefit; the more concentrated the fish are,
the less water you’re going to pollute. If you
were to run growout tied into other systems,
you would simply be polluting more water,
particularly that which you don’t want to.
Of course, the more heavily stocked you
keep growout, the more unstable it will be.
When planning for growout, you may wish
to consider having a diversity of tank sizes;
larger tanks for larger batches and smaller
tanks that allow for segregation. Ultimately
the main consideration in growout is to
oversize all the equipment – if you’re
going to put dozens or hundreds of baby
clownfish in a 20-gallon tank, you’re not
going to be filtering it with filtration rated for
a 20-gallon tank. Of course, I would never,
ever, ever recommend this type of stocking
level in normal circumstances, but when
growing out fish in a breeding setting, high
stocking densities are quite the norm.
There is one other thing to consider when
it comes to growout – if you are planning
to maximize production from your breeding
efforts, growout should take up the majority
of your fish room’s space. Do the maths
Stand-alone ‘extra’ broodstock
quarters in Joe Lichtenbert’s
basement clownfish hatchery.
A used acrylic retail holding
and display system has
been repurposed to serve as
additional clownfish broodstock
space by Joe Lichtenbert.
20/08/2012 02:52:47
– a single pair of clownfish could easily
produce several hundred offspring every
month. If you intend to rear every spawn,
that would require a single larval rearing
vessel for approximately a month, until the
fish are ready for growout. However, growing
clownfish to market size could take 3-12
months depending on the species, so if
you rear every spawn, that translates to
a minimum requirement
of three to 12 tanks to
have enough growout
space to hold the fish to
market size. Of course,
you still have to hold and
sell all these fish, which
means even more tanks.
FOOD CULTURING: Last
on the list are systems
to culture the live feeds
you need as a breeder.
Unless you’re purchasing algae pastes,
you’ll be rearing phytoplankton, both as
a feed for the zooplankton feeds and
for use in greenwater technique. The
zooplankton you’ll rear depends on what
you’re breeding, and the setups required
depend completely on what you’re
culturing. When considering food culture
in your fish room, the main concern is to
prevent contamination of the cultures.
This often means culturing phytoplankton
and zooplankton in separate areas, and
working on phytoplankton before you
work on zooplankton (because if you
get zooplankton on the phytoplankton
cultures… no more phytoplankton cultures!).
PREFAB SYSTEMS
When it comes to putting these five systems
into a fish-room, you certainly can try to take
the guesswork out of it with prefabricated
systems. Modular systems are out there,
generally manufactured for either retail
aquarium stores or laboratory work. If you
can find prefabricated systems available
as used equipment, they can sometimes
be purchased at a fair
price; otherwise such
systems are generally quite
expensive. Prefabricated
systems may be the ideal
solution for people who are
fundamentally intimidated
by the very thought of
a DIY project. However,
these systems are often
designed to serve a very
particular purpose; they
end up being inflexible. Prefab systems can
be convenient, but they are often not the
ideal solution in the typical aquarist’s fish
room. This is why so many people go with
the alternative – DIY (do it yourself)! MP
When considering
food culture in
your fish room,
the main concern
is to prevent
contamination
of the cultures
NEXT TIME
In the next instalment, Matt will tackle
the ultimate project for the tinkerer –
everything you must consider when you
build your fish systems, with only your wits
and problem-solving skills to guide you.
In other words, the ultimate DIY project.
Densities of fish in growout
can be quite high, as seen
here with these clownfish in
Joe Lichtenbert’s aquariums.
20/08/2012 02:52:50
Fragging Montipora > Jason Thresher
T
his month I will be demonstrating
how to frag Plating Montipora.
This is the second SPS coral to
be fragged in the series, and requires
roughly the same type of post-fragging
care as the Birdsnest coral. It is extremely
easy to propagate and is well worth the
effort due to its popularity in the trade.
While they are not as colourful as
many other corals, their attraction lies
in the amazing spiral plates that form
while the coral matures. Colours you can
expect to find at your LFS will vary from
purples, reds and greens to oranges
and rusty browns. They adapt well to
aquarium life and can quickly grow
into a really stunning centrepiece.
JASON THRESHER
Age: 35.
Hometown:
Bookham, Surrey, UK.
Occupation:
IT manager; owner of
Reef Culture.
Marine experience:
18 years.
Tank size:
24g D-D Nano Cube.
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
SPS CUTTERS: I will be using 8ins bone
cutters to remove the frags. Remember
to rinse all tools in fresh water and
dry them thoroughly afterwards.
Saltwater is very corrosive, and if you
have invested in decent tools it is
worth looking after them properly.
CYANOACRYLATE GEL: I recommend
using a gel for SPS corals. The thicker
consistency is perfect for holding
the frag in place while it cures.
FRAG PLUGS: I will be using small
ceramic plugs.
FRAG STATION: A frag station will
support the frags while the gel cures.
CONTAINERS: The containers will house the
frags removed from the mother colony.
PAPER TOWELS: The bottom of the frag
will probably become very slimy after
you cut it, and will be difficult to glue to
the plug. By gently dabbing it onto the
paper towel, most of the slime should be
removed, allowing a solid bond to form
between the coral, the gel and the plug.
Favourite
fish: gobies and blennies.
coral: zoanthids
and palythoa.
other: Pistol Shrimp.
Specialist areas:
Coral propagation.
FRAGGING
MONTIPORA
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Monitpora sp
HOW TO FRAG PLATING MONTIPORA
Depending on the size of your Monti,
you will probably have to frag it in the
tank because the larger colonies are
usually attached to heavy rock structures,
which causes all sorts of problems when
you try to move them. The last thing
you need is a rockslide that cracks
the tank and damages the corals!
If you have a smaller Monti you are
fragging, make sure to keep it moist if you
remove it from the tank. I suggest keeping
it submerged in one of the containers until
you are ready to frag it.
COMMON NAME: PLATING CORAL, MONTIS
080-081_FraggingMonti_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 03:03:34
Fragging Montipora > Jason Thresher
The two best options for fragging are:
• Cut out sections of the plate while
still attached to the mother colony,
making sure to keep incisions neat.
You want to avoid the coral looking
like you used a weed eater to frag it!
• Snap off a plate and cut
it up into smaller frags
For this tutorial I will be snapping off a
plate to show you what to expect.
Gently grip the Monti plate close to the
base and slowly move it up and down. With
a bit of encouragement, the plate should
snap off close to the base. Place the plate
in the container to keep it wet. I usually
cut my frags larger than the frag plug I’m
using, as it immediately hides the plug from
view if it is introduced into the main tank.
Now use the SPS cutters to cut up
the plate. When you are done the
frags are ready to be mounted.
MOUNTING THE FRAG
Firstly, prepare the plug by placing a
drop of gel in the centre. Remove the
frag from the container and dab it a
few times against the paper towel to
remove the slime. Press the frag onto
the gel and leave it to cure for about
60 seconds. The glue should cure fully
when you return the frag to the water
in the container. Repeat this process
until you have mounted all the frags.
This might seem obvious, but make
sure all the frags are the right way up in
the container after you have cut them
up. The frags look similar on the top and
bottom, and it is easy to make the mistake
of mounting it upside down. (Yes, I am
unfortunately speaking from experience!)
POST-FRAGGING TREATMENT
Many people recommend using a
light iodine dip on the frags. It should
combat post-fragging infections and
aid with healing. As with every tutorial,
you need to keep an eye on the frags
and remove them if any start to die. It
is also important to maintain calcium
levels in the tank because newly fragged
SPS corals can strip it very quickly.
JASON’S STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO...
FRAGGING MONTIPORA
STEP 1
Grip the plate of the healthy mother
colony you wish to remove, and wiggle it
up and down until it snaps off.
STEP 3
Keep the frags in the container until you
are ready to mount them. I have cut the
Monti plate into three smaller frags.
STEP 2
Use the SPS cutters to cut the plate into
smaller pieces to mount on the frag plugs.
STEP 4
Using the reef gel, wipe the bottom of the
Monti frag, and mount it.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Montis are easy to frag, and with
a little practice and decent water
quality, you could soon have loads
of healthy frags in your tank! JT
Peter Davies (previous
hobbyist profile issue 9) has a
fine collection of Montipora.
STEP 5
Here you can see the finished product.
STEP 6
After about a month the Monti will start
basing out and encrusting the frag plug.
We would like to thank John and Tania at Living
Reef Aquatics for providing the Monti in this article.
080-081_FraggingMonti_MH011.indd 2
20/08/2012 03:03:40
Shop Profile > Marine Habitat
SAVE MONEY – GET £10 Off LiVESTOck
3
2
1
In this issue...
Living Reef Aquatics
Support your LFS and they will support
you. Three fantastic fish shops each
offering an unmissable £10 off voucher
when you spend £50 or more on
livestock. The time to stock up is NOW!
1
Kent
Buckingham Aquatics
2
Buckinghamshire
A57 Aquatics
3
South Yorkshire
LiViNG REEf AQUATicS
125 Dartford Road, Dartford, Kent DA1 3EN
OPENiNG TiMES:
Monday-Saturday 10.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m.
Sunday
10.00 a.m.-4.00 p.m.
Thursday
CLOSED
TELEPhONE:
01322 281500
EMAiL: [email protected]
WEbSiTE: www.livingreefaquatics.co.uk
Living Reef Aquatics opened in 2003
and has quickly become one of
the market leaders in the aquatics
industry, renowned for helpful and
knowledgeable advice. Boasting one of
the largest collections of hard and soft
corals found in the UK, the shop always
has premium cured live rock in stock,
and an ample supply of RO water or
salted RO water for your convenience.
There is a good selection of quality
marine fish, with most coming from
Marine Aquarium Council (MAC) certified
shippers. The staff are passionate about
where and how fish are caught, only
buying from assured net-caught farms.
The 3,000 square foot shop has an
impressive selection of aquariums to
choose from, and also offers a custommade service.
The online aquatic store offers a
large selection of aquariums, fishcare products, and equipment and
accessories to help maintain
your aquarium.
SAVE £10 AT LIVING REEF AQUATICS
Spend £50 or more on livestock at
LIVING REEF AQUATICS and save £10
Full name:
Address:
Postcode:
TERMS & cONDiTiONS: Voucher can only be used once and MUST be filled in. Only one voucher can be used per
transaction. Voucher cannot be used in conjunction with other offers and cannot be exchanged for cash. Voucher must
accompany purchases but may be photocopied to avoid spoiling the magazine. Valid from 30/08/2012 - 24/10/2012.
for any problems with this voucher, please contact the store or email [email protected]
082-083_ShopProfiles_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 03:19:34
Shop Profile > Marine Habitat
SAVE MONEY – GET £10 off Livestock
BUCKINGHAM AQUATICS
Buckingham Aquatics, Tingewick Road,
Buckingham MK18 4AE.
Opening Times:
Sunday 10.00 a.m.-4.00 p.m.
Telephone: 01280 827927
Email:
[email protected]
Website: www.hedging.co.uk
Buckingham Aquatics is a family-owned
company with an excellent reputation
for stocking exceptional quality tropical,
marine and cold water fish. They also
stock an extensive range of marine
invertebrates, aquatic plants, fish foods
(including live and frozen food), aquarium
decorations, and all the accessories
needed, such as pumps, filters and lighting.
They aim to provide a personal
service, with knowledgeable staff who
know what they are talking about, and
strive to have the best-quality livestock,
even offering a fish health guarantee
(please ask in store for further details).
SAVE £10 AT BUCKINGHAM AQUATICS
BUCKINGHAM AQUATICS and save £10
Full name:
Address:
Buckingham Aquatics also offers an online
shop facility. Visit: www.afishycompany.
com for more information.
Postcode:
TERMS & CONDITIONS: Voucher can only be used once and MUST be filled in. Only one voucher can be used per transaction.
Voucher cannot be used in conjunction with other offers and cannot be exchanged for cash. Voucher must accompany
purchases but may be photocopied to avoid spoiling the magazine. Valid from 30/08/2012 - 24/10/2012.
For any problems with this voucher, please contact the store or email [email protected]
A57 AQUATICS
Godfrey’s Garden Centre, Hardwick Lane,
Aston, Sheffield S26 2BE
Opening Times:
Sunday
10.00 a.m.-4.00 p.m.
Tuesday
CLOSED
Telephone: 0114 287 8666
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.a57aquatics.co.uk
Godfrey’s Garden Centre incorporates
attractions such as All Things Bonsai, Laura’s
Floral Designs, Sherwood Forest Flooring, Molly’s
Coffee Shop, and, of course, A57 Aquatics.
Owned by Graham, A57 has built up an
excellent reputation through its Japanese
Koi (Kitsu Koi). More recently, marine
aquatics has been the focus of a father
and son (Steve) team, with quality being
the priority. The livestock areas are going
strong, and quality dry good brands such
as Red Sea, New Era and Seachem are
gradually taking up shelf space. A display
reef setup has been positioned in the café
area, with another going into the shop area.
Further aesthetic updates on the shop are
planned, along with a range of new tanks.
With regular livestock deliveries, great
service, an ever-improving range of dry goods
and particularly competitive prices on Red Sea
salts, A57 Aquatics invites you to pay a visit.
SAVE £10 at A57 AQUATICS
A57 AQUATICS and save £10
Full name:
Address:
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Looking Back
@ July/Aug 2011
Recent y o ned us? M ssed some back ssues? You may
have m ssed out on some fantast c art c es pub shed
n our back ssues that wou d prove both he pfu and
nterest ng. There s a b t of a m sconcept on that
back ssues get dated, but th s cou dn t be further
from the truth where Mar ne Hab tat s concerned.
Here s a ook at some of the h gh ghts
from the Ju y/Aug 2011 ssue.
Top 10 Free- v ng Invertebrates
10
Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
Lysmata amboinensis
red Fromia starfish with its textbook
five arms
Age: 39
and
characteristic dorso-ventral flattening.
I like these starfish, but give
me
the larger and more expensive Echinaster
Hometown:
luzonicus any day of the
UK. considering
Northwich,
week.
When
starfish for the reef or live rock-based
fish-only
aquarium,
we enter the realms of the reef safe,
non-reef safe, and the
‘what
Zoologist.
the heck does it feed on?’– all relevant
considerations for the reef
aquarist.
The bottom line for me is that E.luzonicus
Marine experience:
is the hardier beast,
and
15yrs.is the most likely to survive in the long
term if given a suitably-sized
system with
abundant
None at live rock.
Aquarium size:
Fromia
responsible
seem particularly susceptible to
I’m spp.
home;
the rigours of collection
at some
and
aquaria
for many
shipping,
with
authors suggesting that the handling
prior to
Waterlife.
Cheshire
them
even
arriving in the UK is to blame for many
problems of their
long-term
Favourite survival. Others suggest that it
is a lack of suitable food for
Tang
Eye aquaria.
fish: Yellow
them
in many
Then, of course, there are those
who have
strigosus).
(Ctenochaetus
cared
for specimens
for
coral: African Blue Coral years with no issue. Echinaster luzonicus, in my
experience, plays a little fairer than
(Cespitularia).
this. Stocked into a system that has
had
a chance
butestablish for 6 months or
Anything to
other:
more, with plenty of live rock
(this
is urchins.
sea
not an animal for the average nano-reef
because there won’t be
enough
naturally
areas: occurring food to sustain it in the long
Specialist
term, although
some
individuals
knowledge.
may accept offerings of shellfish
Species
or algae placed
directly beneath them), Echinaster
can prove to be extremely robust
and long-lived. And it looks absolutely
stunning too.
BRATES
FREE-LIVING INVERTE
M
ost reef aquaria are designed to
meet the requirements of sessile
invertebrates such as corals;
suitable lighting and water currents are
provided and the filtration meets their needs,
along with those of the fish that are almost
always stocked alongside them. However, many
aquaria often become home to free-living
invertebrates, some of which may be stocked
to fulfil a useful role, whether in the control of
algae, detritus or scavenging. It is this diverse
group of animals that gets the Top 10 treatment
in this issue. As usual, this is a highly subjective
selection of fascinating, beautiful and
potentially useful organisms, and the biggest
problem for me has been limiting the number of
species included and their subsequent rankings
in the Top 10.
DEFINITIONS AND OMISSIONS
Sessile invertebrates, for the purposes of this
article at least, include corals and anemones,
and these are therefore not included in the
Top 10 despite many species being able to
9
Red Starfish
Echinaster luzonicus
Mention
the words ‘red starfish’ to most aquarists
LOUGHER
and they think of the
TRISTAN
beautiful and inexpensive
In this issue’s Top Of The Rocks, Tristan Lougher takes
on the free-living invertebrates, the inverts that mostly
have a useful role in the aquarium. From scavengers
to algae eaters, Tristan runs through his countdown to
reveal some very fascinating animals.
7
Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
Lysmata amboinensis
5
6
Alpheus randalli
Lybia tessellata
8
Snow-white contrasting beautifully with the
vivid crimson patches of pigment and
set off by the most delicate hint of yellow,
Randall’s pistol shrimp is immediately
attractive and prized by those familiar
with what it has to offer, besides its
stunning good looks. The problem with
this shrimp is that it is small; the largest
individuals might peak at less than 4cm
(1.57ins), and that includes the pincers.
It is also rather reclusive, spending much
of the day hidden away as it tirelessly
excavates its subterranean burrow in the
aquarium substrate. On its own, or even in
male-female pairs, aquarists are unlikely
to see much of this animal, if at all. What
they need is a goby, more specifically
a watchman goby – one of the smaller
species that can fit comfortably into
Age: 49.
Hometown:
Lincoln, Nebraska USA.
Photojournalist. Also
involved in consulting for
an aquarium maintenance
business (Reef Tectonics).
highly entertaining if left alone.
Of course, rogues can be encountered, and some
justify the lengths to which their reluctant owners go to
remove them. On the other hand, there are those that are
so fascinating, not to mention beautiful, that they inspire
their fans to dispense with all other forms of marine aquaria
in order to set up a system that meets their individual
requirements. Of these stomatopods, the peacock mantis
is arguably the king. Adorned by at least a rainbow’s worth
of colours, the peacock mantis is a bizarre creature to
behold. It spends much of its time watching the world go
by. Indeed, it could be watching you more than you are
watching it, such is the sophistication of its eyesight. Looks
aside, this animal has one of the most remarkable weapons
in the animal world. Mantis shrimps are loosely divided into
groups that capture prey from the water column by seizing
them with barbed modified legs (spearers), and those that
have club-like appendages are capable of generating
enough force to smash glass (smashers). The peacock
mantis is a smasher, and a large one at that. Specimens
measuring over 15cm (6ins) pack a serious punch, although
a hit from one half this size is likely to be incredibly painful.
the relatively narrow tunnels excavated
So, for reasons of beauty, fascination and potential
threaten.
the peacock mantis makes it into a high position in
by the shrimp should danger
danger,
eyes10.
the Top
In return the goby acts as the
of the otherwise myopic shrimp, and
of the of
Image courtesy
when on guard at the entrance
& Philippe Poppe
Guidoconfident
burrow, the shrimp often feels
ww.poppe-images.com
retreat for
enough to emerge from its
© 2011
extended periods. Gobies from the
genus Stonogobiops are known to live
with A.randalli, and yet almost any goby
small enough to fit into the burrow works
well. Although it is perfectly possible to
maintain these shrimp in larger systems,
they are perfect animals for the wellmaintained nano-reef aquarium with
stable water parameters and peaceful
tank mates. I favour keeping them in pairs
(males have larger snapping claws than
females) with a pair of gobies.
36–-
3
Spiral or Super Turbo Snail
Turbo spp
1
The shape of the shell is what
gives this species its Latin
name, although it can shift
when it wants to.
Image courtesy of
Guido & Philippe Poppe
ww.poppe-images.com
© 2011
For many aquarists, there is little likelihood
of them becoming excited about a
species of snail. We tend to think of them
as useful creatures, part of the clean-up
crew at the very best, in which case it’s
best to get as few of them as you can get
away with and concentrate your spending
money on the far more entertaining dwarf
hermit crabs; after all, they eat algae
too. I cannot argue with this. Most of the
hermit crab species that can be bought in
the UK will indeed consume algae. Many
consume snails too, so what’s the point in
buying them in the first place? The actual
fact of the matter is that herbivorous snails
in general make far better grazers of
undesirable algae in the marine aquarium
than hermit crabs. The spiral or ‘super’
Turbo Snail is, in my opinion, the king of
them all.
Represented by a number of species
in the hobby, with T.brunneus probably
the most commonly encountered, the
spiral turbo snail has the true Latin name
Turbo, as opposed to other herbivorous
snails often referred to as turbo snail,
which in reality belong to genera such
as Astraea, Tectus or Trochus, to name
but three. The name refers to the shape
of the shell rather than any great shakes
in the speed department, although a
turbo snail can shift when it wants to.
These are relatively large snails that
can reach at least 4-5cm (1.5-2ins)
in diameter, and as a result they may
become rather clumsy with regard to
sessile invertebrates that are not fixed
down. However, their ability to graze
algae is phenomenal for a couple of
reasons: First of all they are not fussy. Of
course they love to consume diatoms
and microalgae, but then so do the
smaller Astraea snails, and the latter are
less than half the price of their larger
cousins. Where turbo snails come into
their own is in the prevention of nuisance
algae, most notably filamentous forms.
They can even have a role in consuming
existing outbreaks of filamentous forms,
but may have to be stocked in larger
numbers than when employed in a
preventative role. Stock early and don’t
let them starve by stocking too many.
Recommended quantities depend on
the overall productivity of the aquarium
with regard to lighting and nutrient levels,
but start by stocking no more than one
for every 50 litres of aquarium water.
ATABLE
FL
Marine experience:
38yrs.
Toby’s toxin.
Aquarium size:
58 US gallon aquarium
at home. Also involved in
maintaining over 100 marine
and freshwater aquaria.
bioloGy
Most of the Arothron puffers inhabit relatively shallow,
inshore waters and the majority associate with
nutrient-rich coastal reefs. There are some species
that are most abundant in adjacent mangrove
swamps and seagrass beds, often in turbid water.
Some of the Arothron spp., especially as juveniles,
inhabit brackish or even freshwater tidal creeks
or estuaries. It is not uncommon to see certain
Arothron spp. lying on the substrate during the
day, often among palm leafs, logs or trash. Other
Arothron spp. slowly swim about the reef or hover
in the water column during the day. If threatened,
their first line of defence is to try to swim away. If this
fails, and they are pressed further, they will distend
their abdomens with water. At night, they lie on the
sand, hide among sponges, or take refuge in reef
Favourite
fish: Wobbegongs,
Epaulette Sharks, Frogfishes
(aka anglerfishes),
Shrimp Gobbies.
coral: Euphyllia, Goniopora
and Alvepora spp.
other: Reef lobsters and
decapod shrimps.
Specialist areas:
Behaviour ecology of
Elasmobranches (sharks
and rays) and reef fishes.
FIS HE S
IN
Arothron differ
and no ribs. The puffers in the genus
have rounder
from their close relatives in that they
and gill openings
bodies, conspicuous lateral lines,
of the
that usually extend below the midbase
Pufferfishes
pectoral fins. The Tobies, or Sharpnose
snouts, smaller
(genus Canthigaster) have longer
and minute
mouths, inconspicuous lateral lines,
body that are
prickles spread over the head and
is inflated. The two
most obvious when the abdomen
Toby reaches
genera also differ in size. The largest
(9.8ins), while
25cm
about
of
length
a maximum
Arothron is 28cm
the smallest member of the genus
the genus Arothron
(11ins) in length. The leviathan of
(The aquarist
can grow to about 3.7m (12.1ft) long!
differences
should be aware of these important
between the two genera.)
their dorsal
All puffers move by sculling with
referred to as
and anal fins, a swimming mode
caudal fin is
Tetraodontiform locomotion. The
fan and is used
usually folded up like an oriental
with their
rapid
Their unusual ability to inflate, along
for steering, except in situations where
endearing
then propel
almost canine-like personalities and
locomotion is necessary. These fish
a favourite
of the tail. They
appearances, have made the puffers
themselves with rapid lateral beats
hobbyists do
they perform
with marine aquarists. Although many
also spread their tail open when
quite demanding.
and mates.
not realise it, these fishes can be
lateral displays towards their rivals
if a puffer
most
In many cases, special care is required
The characteristic that puffers are
aquarium.
is going to live a long life in the home
for is their ability to inflate. The puffers,
recognised
care
and
biology
fishes,
In this article, I will look at the
along with most of the other inflatable
readily available
that allow
requirements of some of the more
have several anatomical features
to those puffers
have highly
puffers. I will be limiting my survey
them to expand like a balloon. They
saltwater
by
encountered
often
most
valve on each
that are
distensible stomachs with a pyloric
the genera
of the stomach
aquarium keepers – members of
end. The puffer closes off the end
water.
Arothron and Canthigaster.
connected to the intestine and swallows
fish also closes
Between each ’drink’ of water the
the water
Puffer CHaraCteristiCs
the valve nearest the mouth to prevent
The end result is
All the members of the family Tetraodontidae
from moving back into the gullet.
they have a
original size.
possess the following characteristics:
a fish several times larger than its
(operculum),
that
gill slit, rather than a bony gill plate
Inflation is only one of the adaptations
scales, they have
The puffers
their skin is leathery without typical
these fish possess to avoid predators.
dorsal fin that
no spines in fins, they have a single
an extremely dangerous poison,
produce
fins,
pelvic
no
fin,
anal
is relatively small, a small
of marine Puffers
tHe lifestyles anD Care reQuirements
adaptation
Possibly the most unusual anti-predation and in this
inflation,
possessed by reef fishes is body
marine puffers.
article Scott Michael investigates
eef fish employ a variety of anatomical
strategies
characteristics and behavioural
Sharp
to aid them in avoiding predators.
noxious
spines, extreme agility, cryptic colouration,
are all examples
body slime, and Batesian mimicry
to lessen the
of adaptations that some fish possess
meal. Probably
chances that they will become a
adaptation
the most unusual anti-predation
inflation; that is
possessed by reef fishes is body
swallowing water
when a fish increases its girth by
groups are
(or in some cases air). Several fish
including the
known to possess this unusual gift,
the frogfishes
Swell Sharks (genus Cephaloscyllium),
genus
(Antennariidae), the filefishes of the
(Diodontidae)
Brachaluteres, the porcupinefishes
Apparently,
and the pufferfishes (Tetraodontidae).
reduce the
by increasing their size these animals
able to ingest
chances that a predator will be
inflating
them. It is also possible that by suddenly
or make
they might startle a would-be predator
crevice.
them difficult to extract from a reef
R
Inflatable Fish - Scott Michael
called tetraodotoxin, in their tissues. This toxin is most
concentrated in the liver, ovaries, intestines and skin.
The potency and amount of this toxin varies from
one species to the next, from one geographical
location to another, and is present in greater
amounts during the reproductive season. While
puffers are avoided by many piscivores (fish-eaters),
there are some predators that do feed on them. For
example, Sharks, Moray Eels, Barracuda, Snappers
and Groupers are not always deterred by the
puffer’s defences. Avian predators might also dine
on these fish, which can lead to their demise. There
is one reported incident of a petrel consuming a
Hawaiian Whitespotted Toby (Canthigaster jactator)
and subsequently dying, probably as a result of the
SCOTT MICHAEL
4
Randall’s Pistol Shrimp
Boxer Crab
The tiny boxer crab measures less than 15mm across the
carapace even when mature, and yet the diminutive size
belies the rewards they can offer the reef hobbyist. The marine
environment is full of examples of symbioses where animals
appear to work together for their mutual gain, and the boxer
crab is a particularly choice example for the relationship it
Scarlet Leg Hermit Crab
has with even smaller anemones. Held in each pincer of the
Paguristes cadenati
boxing crab are the ‘gloves’, consisting of a pair of anemones
which, considering their size, pack a powerful punch in the
form of a sting. If threatened, the crab waves these in the
After reading other parts of this article,
it
role in algae nibbling. So, I want
direction of the aggressor and is not afraid to use them should
to stock
may appear that I am rather anti
hermit
a species of hermit crab that offers
its shadow boxing display prove to be an insufficient deterrent.
crabs in the home aquarium. This
many
really
of the endearing qualities common
The anemones appear to benefit from the arrangement by
isn’t the case; I am actually a big
to the
fan of
– the crab takes them to
group that isn’t going to yank my
them, provided they are stocked
snails receiving particles of the crab’s food
sensibly
out of their shells and eat them.
their next meal rather than them having to sit about waiting for
The blue
with an idea of potential future problems
knuckle hermit crab (Calcinus
it like other non-photosynthetic anemones.
Calcinus elegans)
elegans and
that may occur.
reclusive and
blue dwarf hermit (Clibanarius
Clibanarius tricolor)
tricolor areDespite their armaments, boxing crabs are
Hermit crabs are often seen as one
notorious for this, with the former
shy, and even in smaller aquaria may not be glimpsed
becoming
of the compulsory members of the
reef
big enough to deal with larger specimens
on a regular basis, so perhaps should not be one of the
janitorial squad that serve to consume
of Turbo sp. snails.
first animals stocked into a new aquarium. They are not
unwanted algae, detritus and subsequently
For me, the best partner for my
particularly expensive, and are one of the many reef animals
uneaten food intended for fish. This
is
herbivorous snails is the scarlet or
seen, however
certainly true, although for me at
red legthat pay the owner back every time they are
least, I
of the
dwarf hermit crab (Paguristes
Paguristes cadenati)
cadenati fleetingly. If lucky, the owner will be rewarded with one
prioritise snails in my clean-up crew,
and
– it’s attractive and relatively benign.
in the home aquarium,
seen
so stocking animals that may come
OK, most amazing spectacles to be
into
so it may not be the most active
namely when a boxer crab moults. It carefully places its
conflict with the snails is counterintuitive.
of hermit
For
crabs during daylight hours, nor is
me, herbivorous snails are the ultimate
it the anemones in a safe place and discards its old exoskeleton
in
least expensive, but it will almost
protective
its
collect
to
returning
before
possible
as
fast
as
certainly
algae control (nutrient control through
other
leave your snails alone to do their
partners. This is a beautiful animal that will repay its modest
means aside), whereas hermit crabs
job
have
and work with them to maintain
a cleanerpurchase price with every exclusive viewing.
a role in scavenging and a much
smaller
environment in your aquarium.
-–33
Marbled brittle starfish just don’t seem
interested in anything other than what
they can scavenge from the substrate,
and they are not large enough to tackle
anything larger than a pygmy goby should
an unnatural predatory instinct take over.
Bear in mind that an individual measuring
15cm (6ins) across the arms might have a
body measuring only a centimetre or two.
Of course, they scavenge dead fish given
the opportunity, and sometimes it is easier
to blame the demise of a tank inhabitant
on another animal rather than one’s own
shortcomings in aquarium husbandry.
As with all echinoderms, brittle stars may
be sensitive to changes in water chemistry
Peacock Mantis Shrimp
and salinity, and so should be acclimated
Odontodactyllus scyllarus
over a prolonged period to minimise the
stress involved. It is also worthwhile seeking
because
there are a few crustaceans in my Top 10, more
out individuals that are well settled,
Admittedly
the
from
20 (nos. 20-11 available online), and quite a few
the animal needs time to recover
Top
in the
rigours of collection and shipping.
of them are commonly referred to as shrimp. Only one is
not a true shrimp and that’s the peacock mantis shrimp.
Correctly termed a stomatopod, the relationship between
it and a true shrimp is a distant one. Mantis shrimp have a
fearsome reputation as predators of hard-shelled organisms
and fish, and those arriving accidentally in home aquaria
can cause mayhem, often due less to their direct impact
on the aquarium and more to the lengths aquarists are
prepared to go to remove them. Many mantis shrimp persist
in reef aquaria unnoticed, consuming food intended for fish
or true shrimp, and cause little, if any, harm. They seldom
grow to more than a few centimetres in length and can be
Inflatable Fish - Scott Michael
the saddled toby (Canthigaster
valentini) exhibit sexual
dichromatism - the blue lines
in
around the eyes of the individual
this photo indicate that it is a male.
Image courtesy of
Guido & Philippe Poppe
ww.poppe-images.com
© 2011
Ophioderma appressum
Randall’s pistol shrimp may be small but
it makes up for this with its beauty. This
is a male specimen as evidenced by its
relatively large snapping pincer.
Stomatella varia snails make
very good tank cleaners.
Usually these chaps hitchhike
on live rock and corals. They
multiply fairly quickly and
hobbyists generally see these
guys a brilliant addition to
the tank.
34–-
Marbled Brittle Starfish
Small, short-spined brittle starfish make
for excellent scavengers in the home
aquarium. Their super-flexible arms mean
they can locate uneaten food originally
intended for fish in the most remote and
inaccessible places, thereby fulfilling an
incredibly useful role. Variable in patterning
and, to an extent, colouration, these
echinoderms also look great. This species
of serpent starfish rarely grows to more than
15cm (6ins) arm span, and so shouldn’t be
confused with the similarly coloured and
patterned Ophiolepis superba that grows to
significantly larger sizes; although useful in its
own right, it’s not as talented a contortionist
as Ophioderma appressum.
Aquarists sometimes have a suspicion
of short spined brittle starfish, often referred
to as serpent starfish, due to the predatory
behaviour of some of their larger, longer
spined brethren, some of which are known
to predate fish in the home aquarium.
Often simply referred to as ‘cleaner
shrimp’, this iconic species is
collected throughout the Indo-Pacific
and is replaced by the similar
L.grabhami in the Western Atlantic.
These shallow water shrimp are
renowned for their ‘cleaning stations’,
where a pair or group occupy
an area of reef, which is then visited
by fish wishing to benefit from the
attentions of the crustaceans. The
shrimp picks scales, dead skin and
parasites from fish, even cleaning
between their teeth in an exhibition
of ultimate trust. The shrimp benefits
from having food brought to it,
and the fish obviously benefit because
the shrimp’s maintenance
removes problems that may become
debilitating in the long term.
In an aquarium, skunk cleaner shrimp
are best
of two – these are protandrous hermaphrodites stocked in multiples
– males first, and as
they mature, both male and female.
Their cleaning instincts are not
lost in the home, but they are occasionally
visited by their fish tank
mates for attentions. In the home
aquarium it is unlikely they are able
to glean enough sustenance from
their tank mates, but the good news
is that they are happy to consume
uneaten food intended for fish, and
they make excellent scavengers
in this respect. They are inexpensive,
look great, and are quite hardy,
and therefore they warrant their lofty
position in the Top 10.
This boxer crab not only carries
its protective anemones but also
a bright orange ball of eggs
beneath its tail. Image courtesy
of John Clipperton.
move around the aquarium to varying extents.
Clams and scallops are also largely sessile
once settled. I have also left out the beautiful
cephalopods, octopi and cuttlefish that are
available to marine aquarists; their aquarium
requirements are more demanding than
most, and species aquaria dedicated to their
husbandry are recommended. All bar one or
two of the Top 10 are able to be stocked into
the average live rock-based home aquarium
provided their individual requirements in terms of
diet or husbandry are prepared to be met. Some
require special attention, whereas others can be
introduced and left to get on with it. I have also
left out those species that are not intentionally
purchased from the list. For example, animals
such as Stomatella varia snails are excellent
molluscs that might feature in a future Top 10,
but as they are seldom available to purchase,
instead arriving on coral base rock and live rock,
they are not included here.
Inf atab e F shes
Bellicose! - Scott Michael
Dottybacks, Beautiful But
Top of the Rocks - Tristan Lougher
Top of the Rocks - Tristan Lougher
Top of the Rocks - Tristan
Lougher
crevices or caves.
The majority of Tobies also occur in shallow
water. They are usually found associating with
structure, either natural reef formations or manmade structures (e.g. pier pilings or ship wreckage).
Although most Tobies are not microhabitat
specialists, there are several species that are. Some
of the more specialised Tobies live in caves or
deep-reef crevices. They are smaller (i.e. less than
8cm [3.1ins]), secretive species and include the
Leopard Toby (Canthigaster leoparda), Pygmy Toby
(C. pygmaea) and Tyler’s Toby (C. tyleri). There are
also a handful of Tobies that are most abundant in
very deep water, for example the Yellowlined Toby
(Canthigaster flavoreticulata) was only recently
fooD anD feeDinG
Puffers have teeth that consist of two heavy plates,
which are fused together to form a beak. This
specialised dentition allows them to feed on prey
items with heavy armour or leathery skin, which
are unavailable as food for many other reef fishes.
Most of the Arothron spp. have varied diets, which
include algae (calcareous and macroalgae)
and a wide range of invertebrate prey (including
most of the Arothron spp. may require that
the aquarist anesthetise them and grind
down their ever-growing teeth. a Hispid
Puffer (Arothron hispidus) is shown here.
This can lead to terrible lacerations along the skin
around the gill openings. The Bannerfish may also
attack, damage, and sometimes remove the
puffer’s eyes! This may seem counterintuitive when
you remember that the puffers have toxins in their
skin, but these substances do not dissuade the
Butterflyfishes from mutilating the puffer.
That said, the puffer’s highly toxic organs can
potentially cause problems if one of these fish died
and was allowed to decompose in the aquarium.
However, I have never heard of an instance where
a stressed puffer exuded toxin from its skin, like the
Boxfishes (family Ostraciidae), and killed its tank
mates, although some popular aquarium books
report that this is possible.
it is best to add the shrimp to the tank first.
Although not quite as destructive as the
Arothron spp., it is also a risky business to add
a Polyphagous Toby into your reef aquarium.
The Canthigaster spp. consume many of the
invertebrates that the aquarist works so hard to
maintain. That said, members of this genus have
been kept in larger reef aquariums. For example,
Bruce Carlson, in an article written for public
aquarists on reef displays, listed Tobies as potential
inhabitants for the reef aquarium. The late Gregory
Schiemer also reports having kept the Papuan
Toby (Canthigaster papua) in a reef tank without
incident. Other aquarists (including me) have had
few problems with keeping the cave-dwelling
Leopard Toby (Canthigaster leoparda) in
reef tanks. But these Canthigaster spp. do
occasionally feed on SPS corals in the wild,
as well as other ornamental invertebrates.
For example, I have seen the Ocellated
Toby (Canthigaster solandri) bite off the
feeding tentacles of Christmas Tree worms
(Spirobranchus spp.), the tips of serpent
star arms, the skin knobs off sea stars, and
the spines of sea urchins. Therefore, if you
add a Toby to your reef tank, be aware that there
is a possibility that they may damage sessile
and motile invertebrates. One important thing
to remember is that they are less likely to cause
problems if you feed them frequently (e.g. two or
three times a day). One way to provide a more
constant food supply, and possibly prevent them
from biting your ornamental invertebrates, is to
regularly add some of the freeze-dried algae
sheets in a lettuce clip.
That concludes my brief survey of this
endearing group of unique reef fishes. If you
are interested in trying to house a puffer, make
sure you have the time and resources to give it
the special care it needs. This may even mean
trying your hand at puffer dentistry! Until next time,
happy fish-watching! SM
“The Arothron species
are a menace to
invertebrates, and
therefore an inappropriate
choice for any reef tank”
some juvenile starry Puffer (Arothron
stellatus) can be bright orange, as
seen here. this beautiful little fish can
however reach over a meter in length!
discovered on the Tonga submarine ridge at a
depth of 90m (295ft), while the Maze Toby has been
taken at depths in excess of 300m (985ft).
Most Tobies are active during the day and torpid
at night. At dusk they seek out their night-time
resting sites, which might be the base of a sponge,
a mussel shell, a crevice, or a piece of hard or
soft coral. Often they assume a vertical sleeping
position, with their tails down and their bellies
pressed against the substrate. When at rest, or when
stressed, the Toby’s colour fades and blotches
appear over the body. This nocturnal colour
transformation helps the Toby disappear against the
variegated reef substrate. This chromatic change
may also cause duress in the neophyte Toby-keeper
who thinks the fish is sick or dead.
“This specialised dentition allows them to
feed on prey items with heavy armour or
leathery skin, which are unavailable as
food for many other reef fishes”
sponges, sea anemones, branching and
encrusting stony corals, soft corals, bryozoans,
bivalves, snails, worms, crustaceans and tunicates).
Some individuals develop a specific search
image, feeding heavily on a single prey item. For
example, a Starry Puffer (Arothron stellatus) was
collected off Enewetak, whose stomach was full
of Guilding’s Sea Stars (Linckia guildingi), and
the stomachs of two Map Puffers (A. mappa),
collected off Arno Atoll, were filled with chunks of
sponge (Hiatt and Stratsburg 1960).
If a preferred prey item becomes scarce, the
puffer’s diet will shift. For example, off Panama
Guinea, Fowl Puffers (Arothron meleagris) once
fed almost entirely on hard coral. But when El Kino
caused much of the hard coral in this area to die
off, the puffers began feeding heavily on sponges,
tunicates and coralline algae (Guzman and
Robertson 1989). Although some individual puffers
target one or two preferred prey items, others have
less discriminating tastes. For example, the stomach
of one Starry Puffer (Arothron hispidus) contained
fragments of the stony coral Pocillopora, crushed
bivalves, sponges, tunicates, xanthid crabs, coralline
algae and the calcareous algae Halimeda
(Randall, 1974)!
The more diminutive Tobies graze on
macroalgae, seagrass and benthic invertebrates.
Given their small size, the Tobies have a more
limited dietary breadth than their larger cousins.
They use their exaggerated snouts to probe reef
crevices and their fused teeth to snip off tube
worm tentacles and staghorn coral tips, and to
scrape coralline algae off hard reef surfaces.
Other invertebrates that have been reported
from Toby diets include foraminiferans, sponges,
bryozoans, snails, clams, peanut worms, crabs,
other small crustaceans and tunicates. At least
one species is known to acquire some of its
nutrients by employing parasitic practices. The
Ocellated Toby (Canthigaster solandri) has
been observed attacking larger fish and biting
off scales or pieces of fin, but stomach content
analysis shows that fish parts do not make up a
major constituent of this fish’s diet. (Other species
may engage in this behaviour in captivity – see
Compatibility section for more on this.)
Puffers anD invertebrates
The Arothron species are a menace to
invertebrates, and therefore an inappropriate
choice for any reef tank. They will eat almost
any invertebrate that can be housed with them,
including those equipped with heavy shells, such
as Tridacna clams and Astraea snails, and spine,
like sea urchins. Occasionally, smaller individuals
can be kept with larger sea anemones that have
a more potent sting (e.g. Stichodactyla spp.,
Actinodendron spp.). If you keep a larger pair
of Anemonefishes in with your anemone, they
will help to protect their host from a puffer. The
Arothron spp., especially adult individuals, will
eat crustaceans, including cleaner shrimp, boxer
shrimp, and even reef lobsters. If you want to
attempt to keep a cleaner shrimp with your puffer,
the ocellated toby (Canthigaster
solandri) has a very eclectic diet that
includes sessile invertebrates, however,
they have been kept in reef tanks
without causing much damage.
soCial orGanisation
As far as their social organisation and mating
behaviours are concerned, more is known about
the members of the genus Canthigaster than the
Arothron spp. Those Tobies studied thus far are
haremic. The females defend an area within a
male’s larger territory. A male’s territory, which may
cover an area from about 24-600 square metres,
-–21
-–35
usually less likely to be a problem, although it is
best attempted if you have a larger tank. Add
them in order of their size – the smallest individual
first, followed by the next largest, and so on. Also,
species that are more similar in colouration are
more likely to quarrel than those that exhibit a
greater degree of chromatic disparity.
Most Tobies rarely behave aggressively towards
other fish species, with the possible exception of
congeners that exhibit chromatic similarities. I have
kept several different Toby species, which differed
significantly in their colour patterns, together in
the same medium-sized tank without incident.
Although more than one individual of the same
species can be kept in an aquarium, you should
try to select members of the opposite
sex (it is often difficult to tell the sexes
apart), the tank should be spacious, with
plenty of hiding places, and both fish
should be introduced at the same time.
Occasionally, one individual may suddenly
begin chasing and nipping a conspecific
that it did not behave aggressively
towards in the past. This sudden increase
in aggression may result from a male
individual trying to repress sex change in a female
that is beginning to transform into a male.
If you are going to keep a puffer with more
aggressive fishes, such as Groupers and
Triggerfishes, the puffer should be introduced,
and acclimated, to the tank before these more
belligerent tank mates. More aggressive Triggerfishes
may bite puffers, usually when the two fish are
competing for food. Although these fish can be
kept with Cleaner Wrasses (Labroides spp.), it is not
uncommon for one of these parasite-pickers to
irritate the less agile puffer. Puffers will sometimes
attempt to flee from, or even bite at, persistent
Cleaner Wrasses. One of the worst potential
Arothron puffer tank mates is the Highfin Bannerfish
(Heniochus acuminatus). These fish are facultative
cleaners and adults will pick at puffers incessantly!
22–-
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T s an Loughe a es h s Top 10 ee v ng nve s Many aqua a
o en become home o h s asc na ng and d ve se g oup o
an ma s o en s ocked o con o a gae o scavenge nu en s
Body n a on s a h gh y unusua way o avo d p eda on by ee
shes Sco M chae nves ga es he es y es and ca e equ emen s
o he ex ao d na y n a ab e shes n pa cu a he pu e shes
The B g Interv ew TMC s Pau West
Breed ng Beg ns – Part Four
Marine Breeder - Matt Pedersen
The Big Interview - Paul
West
To start off then, let’s go back in
time. Where did
your marine aquatics experience
begin?
During my late teens I’d taken the
decision to
study and qualify as a marine biologist.
I was
lucky enough to be given the opportunity
to do
this at Bangor University in North Wales.
For marine
sciences, Bangor is one of the largest
in Europe,
and their ongoing research is well
known and
documented. I’d actually previously
been working
with Graham Cox (Waterlife Research),
and so
even when I was at uni I was already
aware of
TMC, who had obviously been around
since 1970.
This course really secured my interest
in marine life.
Following your qualification as
a marine
biologist, what was your entry into
the industry?
In around 1981, following my study,
I was
offered a job in Scotland, where
I was involved
in developing commercial rearing
techniques.
This was also, in fact, around the
time I first came
into contact with TMC. Moving to
Scotland
immediately presented an interesting
logistical
situation from a travel perspective.
At this time, I
had a pair of Triggerfish, which I’d
had for some
time and was quite attached to,
so I wasn’t
prepared to let them go. So off
I went, totally
unprepared, with my Triggerfish in
a bag of about
50 litres of seawater sloshing around
in the back
of the car throughout the whole
8 hour journey. I
didn’t even have a place to stay,
but knew I had
to find somewhere to put my Triggerfish.
“Over the next
few years, with a
dedicated team,
and my background
and experience in
commercial breeding,
the TMC hatchery
made history with
its industry-leading
hatchery programme”
M
(Dave laughs) Well, we’ll assume
you got sorted
somewhere. So where did this lead?
By this time I’d decided that marines
were my
passion, and so off the back of my
experience
in the fish-farming industry, I decided
I would
quite like to set up my own hatchery,
and with the
knowledge I had of TMC, I thought
what better
place to start than to approach
them and ask if
they would be willing to help fund
some startup
breeding equipment. So I did, and
they supported
my venture, and once I had received
the breeding
equipment I set up a hatchery in
the back of my
garage, breeding Clownfish.
W
A
male and female ocellaris
Clownfish spawning
DID YOU KNOW?
The black form of the Ocellaris Clownfish
normal
is fundamentally different from the
orange form. Unlike the orange Common
from
Clownfish, the black variation originates
It takes 3-4
the reefs around Darwin, Australia.
and when
years to mature and start breeding,
Given
it does it typically has smaller spawns.
geographic
the reproductive differences and
looking at a
separation, I propose we could be
altogether.
subspecies or even separate species
addressed by
Whether that question even gets
most black
scientists, it’s important to know that
because no
Ocellaris are captive-propagated
wild (rumours
one wants to collect them in the
crocodiles,
for
food
becoming
of
suggest fears
hobbyists
a story not acquainted with freshwater
Ilangi,
who are familiar with Tropheus moorii
their
which is said to have cost three collectors
collection
lives to crocs). Given a lack of wild
with high
and breeding difficulties, combined
continue to
demand, this is why black Ocellaris
orange
fetch a higher price than the normal
the
Ocellaris Clownfish. The hybrid between
Ocellaris is
black Ocellaris and normal orange
although I
usually called a Mocha Clownfish,
on the
strongly discourage this line of breeding
future species
grounds that it may be blurring a
tends to be a
form
Mocha
the
that
and
barrier,
They’re
muddy version of the orange Ocellaris.
focus on
not attractive, so let’s move on and
preserving more natural species.
That sounds like an interesting setup;
I guess
the car was on the drive then. So,
what did
you do with these Clownfish, did
you breed
many of them?
I used to take them down to the
big Bellevue
show. The Clownfish I sold we
Paul West was featured in 1981
PFK magazine,
talking about a new marine breeding
kit which
provides ordinary fishkeepers with
suitable food
to breed fish more easily.
T
bred or the
Clownfish varieties are either selectively
some point.
results of species hybridisation at
average
It’s important to note that it is the
path
hobbyist who encourages this dangerous
Whites,
of breeding. With Platinums, Wyoming
fetching prices
Picasso Clarkii, and a host of others
form, this is what
ten times more than the natural
all, it costs
commercial producers make. After
Ocellaris vs 100
them no more to raise 100 normal
Clownfish
fancy Ocellaris. Proponents of ’designer’
and brings
also say this drives the industry forward
is all true.
more people into the hobby. This
natural
and
The problem is that other breeders
the hybrid of
biodiversity take the hit. For example,
often called
Amphiprion ocellaris and A. percula,
from
discern
to
impossible
almost
a Percularis, is
have a hard
the parental species (most people
apart!). There
enough time telling the true species
and reproduction
are stark differences in genetics
A. ocellaris
between A. ocellaris and A. percula.
fish because
make exceptional beginner breeder
only 1-1½
they mature quickly. It usually takes
spawning. Their
years for a pair to mature and start
cared for
offspring bar up quickly when properly
miniature
– after 30-45 days you’ll have beautiful
3-4
take
can
Clownfish. Meanwhile, A. percula
a female). Their
years to reach sexual maturity (as
longer to develop
offspring also take considerably
as long as 3
their stripes and colour – it can be
and the last
years before final colour is reached
that, A. percula is
stripes have come in. Along with
more aggressive than A. ocellaris.
ocellaris
When the hybrid of the Amphiprion
these differences
and A. percula gets into the mix,
wonder
are muddled. Future breeders may
mean and
why their Ocellaris Clowns are so
Percula
take 7-8 months to stripe up, while
and perfectly
breeders marvel at how quickly
their offspring develop. From a conservation
day become
standpoint, the two fish could one
mates, try
too much disturbance (remove tank
one in the hobby, and that’s a tremendous
external activities),
wellshielding the viewing glass from
loss of natural biodiversity, with generally
quality), or
who pay
egg infections (improve your water
intentioned breeders being the ones
broodstock diet).
world, think
poor-quality eggs (improve your
the ultimate price (in the freshwater
the
Guppies (poecilia
If you get free-swimming baby Banggais,
about the confusion surrounding
immediately
(p. wingei) for
hard part is over. Baby Banggais
reticulata) and Endler’s Livebearers
but you can’t
different,
accept newly hatched brine shrimp,
example – are they the same species,
critical DHA.
a wild form of
feed them this forever, as it lacks
and what do you have, a Guppy,
(including
copepods
eat
to
this is all a joke,
Getting the babies
Endler’s, a hybrid?). You may think
shrimp will
breeder whose
CYCLOP-EEZE®) and grated mysis
but I recently visited a Clownfish
and in about
cf. melanopus)
prevent Sudden Fright Syndrome,
Cinnamon Clowns (Amphiprion
ready for sale.
from
range
4 months you’ll likely have babies
colour
a
with
were throwing babies
you’ll probably
colouration all
Once you get production down,
full-on proper Cinnamon Clownfish
– this is a very
related Tomato
rear 25 babies per pair per month
the way to fish that looked like the
to rehome. Know
which raised
manageable number of babies
Clownfish (Amphiprion frenatus),
productive for
appear
that most Banggai pairs are only
questions about why these fish didn’t
retirement, so
one would
about 2 years before going into
to produce consistent offspring that
when it’s time to
still don’t know
keep track of your pairs and know
expect. Knowing that most retailers
not surprising that
start setting up new broodstock.
how to tell the species apart, it’s
are
of hybrid origins.
After all this, it hardly seems like Banggais
this broodstock very well could be
fish that I think is
pairings
easy. Maybe true. There’s another
Still don’t buy it? I’ve even seen hybrid
Fish’.
Marine
of
’Guppy
title
the
of
and also
better deserving
being offered, both intentionally
mixes of
unintentionally, on multiple occasions:
X frenatus, or
The Common Clownfish
A. allardi X clarkii, A. melanopus
even an online
Amphiprion ocellAris
A. ocellaris X A. percula. There is
the guppies
‘haute couture’
Bar none, Clownfish are becoming
retailer in the US who is now offering
probably more
any two
of the marine fish world. There are
pairings, offering mixed pairs of almost
any other type.
how often the
people breeding Clownfish than
species you might select. Knowing
Percula or
it is hardly
No Clownfish is easier than the False
industry and hobbyists get it wrong,
ocellaris).
of wild Clownfish
Common Clownfish (Amphiprion
surprising that some captive lines
what I call
are now thought
Clownfish are rapidly undergoing
variations (like the onyx percula)
term I use
are still wild
’guppification’, a slightly derogatory
to possibly have hybrid origins (there
the ongoing
take
in the aquarium world to describe
onyx percula forms, and their offspring
hybrids, crosses
bar up than some
creation and pursuit of man-made
significantly longer to colour and
varieties
‘new’
create
that
mutations
and selected
captive-bred lines).
considering
to
and forms. It’s a fine line of course,
The moral of the story is that it’s important
Clownfish and
more difficult
that fish like the Lightning Maroon
know your broodstock. While slightly
wild, and thus
sustainably
with
Picasso Percula are found in the
starting
breeder,
for the serious
These are in
are part of the natural biodiversity.
collected wild Ocellaris from a known
ornamental
the minority, however – most of these
-–13
21/06/2011 02:55:47
-–7
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n h s B g n e v ew he ocus s on Pau Wes manag ng
d ec o o ndus y ead ng ma ne supp e T op ca Ma ne
Cen e TMC o acknow edge TMC s 40 h ann ve sa y
ISSUE 2
ISSUE 3
ISSUE 5
ISSUE 6
n Pa Fou o h s n o ma ve b eed ng o he beg nne se es Ma
Pede sen n oduces ou spec es dea o he new ma ne b eede
a ong w h de a s o success u me hods om h s own expe ences
ISSUE 7
ISSUE 8
ISSUE 9
No need to miss out, back issues of Marine Habitat are available from
our website: www.marinehabitatmagazine/buy-now/issues
_Loo n B
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ndd
ISSUE 10
I G GY TAVA R E S
Age: 62.
Hometown:
London.
Scientist.
Marine experience:
7yrs.
Aquarium size:
None at the moment.
Favourite
fish: Powder Blue Tang
(Acanthurus leucosternon).
coral: Elegance Coral
(Catalaphyllia jardenei).
other: Blood Red Fire Shrimp
(Lysmata debelius).
Specialist areas:
Photography.
Iggy Tavares takes a look at one of the
UK’s most famous and much-loved public
aquariums, and has a behind-the-scenes look
at what makes this place tick.
A
trip to The Deep was one
of my primary reasons for
visiting Hull. My first view of The
Deep was from across the water before
getting in closer for another look at the
outside of this iconic building, which is
particularly stunning at sunset. Designed
by Sir Terry Farrell, The Deep is described
as a ‘submarium’ that features gleaming
glass and aluminium bars, and it has a
resemblance to ‘The Sea of Ice’ painting
by Caspar David Friedrich. The Deep,
costing £45.5 million, is a British Millennium
project that was built on reclaimed land
in the Humber estuary, and opened its
doors to the public in March 2002.
After purchasing tickets at the entrance
hall, visitors take the lift to the top of the
building to start the tour of The Deep,
with an introductory video which explains
that The Deep is the story of the world’s
oceans told through time; their past,
present and future. The tour involves
walking down gently sloping walkways
along the length and breadth of the
building, past the various exhibits that
are in atmospheric semi-darkness. The
Awakening Seas exhibit is a depiction of
the ocean through time, with various fossils
embedded in the high walls, showing
how life on earth evolved from simple life
forms to soft-bodied animals, and then on
to the first fishes swimming in the oceans
some 500 million years ago. Of particular
interest is the reconstructed skeleton of
Zygorhiza, an early whale that lived about
40 million years ago. The story of life is
reinforced by non-stop looped video
screens relating the story of the seas of the
past. There are a variety of other handson interactive devices with touch screens
to keep children occupied and happy.
The Lagoon of Light represents a calm,
shallow tropical lagoon, and transports
visitors to the oceans of today. I was
rather excited to see this first big circular
well-lit display, which is a real gem, and
consists of a huge open top tank (11 x
10m, 185,000 litres), teeming with a large
selection of marine fish that inhabit a coral
reef. Marine keepers’ favourite fishes, the
tangs, are well represented here, with
some 10 different species that include
yellow tangs, lipstick tangs, regal tangs,
and more. Watching shoals of colourful fish
swimming past the glass is so exhilarating
that many visitors just plop themselves on
the floor to spend some time enjoying the
view. An alternative way to watch the fish
is to climb the ladders to put your head
inside a glass bubble to get closer to the
queen and emperor angelfish, or threadfin
and saddled butterfly fish, or dozens of
colourful clownfish and damsels that
enliven this community. Fish in the Lagoon
of Light get very excited at feeding times,
which is four times a day, but they are also
fed by a diver in their tank at 11.00 a.m.
on Tuesdays and 2.00 p.m. on Saturdays,
which might be a good time to visit.
The Coral Realm floor-to-ceiling viewing
window (3 x 6m), which is part of the
Lagoon of Light, features a wall of rock
085-089_PublicAquarium_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 00:09:21
The Deep > Iggy Tavares
carrying several hundred colourful corals,
making for a natural-looking backdrop
for the fish. These include soft corals such
as Sarcophyton, Sinularia and Clavularia
species, as well as many more colourful
hard corals that belong to Montipora,
Euphyllia and Plerogyra species. The Coral
Realm gives visitors another chance to
have a close-up view of some of the larger
and more adventurous fish, which include
some Picasso triggerfish, Valentini puffers,
and even some long-horned cow fish that
blow jets of water at the sand as they hunt
for crustaceans. I watched with interest as a
male Blue-spotted Ribbon Tail Ray (Taeniura
lymna) went in close pursuit of a female,
flitting past the various viewing windows,
knowing that these colourful rays have
been bred in captivity at The Deep, which
is a first in Europe. Interestingly, the bluespotted ribbon tail rays are ovoviviparous;
this is where the eggs develop inside the
mother’s uterus, and when fully developed
she gives birth to live pups that look like
miniature versions of the adults. Some of
the other fish in these two displays to look
out for are bicolour parrotfish, harlequin
tuskfish and some fusiliers, just a few
of the 60 different species and more
than 1,000 individuals in the display.
The Endless Oceans,
representing the warm
open ocean, is a huge
tank that spans the three
floors, and is 10 metres
deep (28 x 17m) and
contains 2.3 million litres
of water and 87 tonnes
of formulated salt
In the vicinity is the Wave Power Tank, a
5,000-litre system with a 4m x 1m window,
which is well stocked with a colourful array
of corals, including blue pulse coral, button
polyps, and bubble coral clams. Here a
nice selection of marine hobbyists’ favourite
fish, such as yellow tangs, copperband
butterfly fish, coral wreckfish, and blue
cheek gobies, to name but a few, make
for a popular display. Computer-interactive
screens, as well as backlit boards all around,
helps one to identify the different fish in the
Lagoon of Light and the Wave Power Tank.
The Endless Oceans, representing the
warm open ocean, is a huge tank that
spans the three floors, and is 10 metres
deep (28 x 17m) and contains 2.3 million
litres of water and 87 tonnes of formulated
salt. The huge main viewing area at the
bottom of Endless Ocean consists of a
clear wall that extends from floor to ceiling,
and is a good spot to see large stingrays
near the bottom of the tank ‘fly’ past,
almost within touching range of young
children who are permitted to be in touch
A diver feeding a Nurse
Shark in Endless Ocean,
courtesy of The Deep.
Wave Power Tank near
the Lagoon of Light.
with the clear wall. Here too, is a pair of
spectacular green sawfish, with their long,
toothy snout extension that they use to slash
and disable prey. Green sawfish give birth
to as many as eight live pups at a time,
but this has yet to happen at The Deep.
Many of the seven species of shark, such
as a large Nurse Shark, also keep the visitors
enthralled as they swim past this window.
A spectacular way to enjoy the Endless
Ocean is a walk through the viewing tunnel,
from where you can look up to the very
top of this huge display to view all the fish
swimming above. Many of the sharks,
which include whitetip reef sharks, zebra
sharks and spotted wobbegong, seem
attracted to the visitors in the tunnel, and
they captivate their audience by swimming
obligingly close, as do the huge shoal of
large horse-eye jack, which is why I spent
a good 20 minutes or more just watching
the terrific fish show here. Yet another way
to enjoy a fantastic view of the creatures
of the Endless Oceans is to take a ride
up in the world’s only amazing acrylic
underwater lift. This takes a few visitors
at a time through the water in the main
tank, stopping and lighting up halfway up,
Baby blue-spotted
ribbon tail ray,
20/08/2012 00:09:27
and sharks with larger chunks of feed.
The Amazon Flooded Forest opened in
February 2011, and is the largest freshwater
feature at The Deep (it brought back to life
my exciting trip to Manaus in the Amazon
that I made several years ago). With the
River Amazon being one of the most
biodiverse regions on earth, this floor-toceiling 4.5m deep, 200,000 litres display
contains several large species of fish for
an impact display. The substrate level is
home to peacock-eye stingrays, but also
huge tiger shovelnose catfish, ripsaw catfish
and red tail catfish that spend the night
cruising the tank. There are large pacus
that are related to the piranha family but
are, in fact, vegetarians, and they usually
eat nuts and seeds that hang in the middle
waters of this display. The surface waters
of this display are patrolled by large silver
arowanas, which in the wild can leap out
of the water to catch flying insects and,
apparently, even small birds, but they also
eat any fish they can catch underwater.
Batfish, Lagoon of Light..
Blue Cheek Goby,
Wave Power Tank.
Pacus and Arowana
in Amazon display,
Yellow tang,
Lagoon of Light.
which seems to attract the fish, giving one
a diver’s eye view of the ocean. It also
houses colourful fish such as blue stripped
snapper, Atlantic porkfish, black spotted
rubberlips and red humpback snappers.
To see more of the fish in Endless Ocean,
one does need to walk up the acrylic
staircase, which is necessary in any case
during busy periods, and it takes visitors to
many more viewing windows higher up in
the display. Here one gets close views of the
strange-looking hump nose unicornfish that
glide effortlessly through the water, along
with a whole load of other fish. I was happy
to take the stairs because halfway up a
huge potato rock cod, which is a grouper,
seemed to follow me around, appearing
at various other smaller viewing windows
of the Endless Ocean, while a colourful
Napoleon wrasse wasn’t so obliging.
The various fish in Endless Ocean
receive a mixed diet that contains squid,
mackerel, haddock, whiting, sprat, four
times a day from the surface. There is
also a dive show on Mondays, Tuesdays,
Thursdays and Fridays at 2.00 p.m.,
which has proved to be very popular,
when a diver hand-feeds the larger fish
The surface waters of this
display are patrolled by
large silver arowanas,
which in the wild can
leap out of the water
to catch flying insects
and, apparently,
even small birds
The fish in the Amazon display are
fed once or twice a day, with lamprey,
roach, trout and cockles, as well as with
nuts (almonds, Brazil nuts, pecans and
walnuts) and various fruit and vegetables,
and these are enjoyed by the pacus as
well as some of the other fish. The dive
show is held at 11.00 a.m. on Thursdays
and 2.00 p.m. on Sundays, and the large
predatory catfish are the main players.
During the summer, around lunchtime,
Amazon Corner runs craft activity workshops
each day. To tie in with the Amazon
theme and the new bug displays housing
the strongest, largest and most ferocious
terrestrial invertebrates, a new 3D movie
called Bugs, about the adventures of a
caterpillar and narrated by Dame Judy
Dench, is currently running at The Deep.
The Cool Seas Zone features creatures of
the colder oceans, which are found from
the shoreline down to below 200 metres,
where sunlight no longer penetrates,
resulting in an endless night. The Cool
Seas Zone has a range of smaller exhibits,
housing a wide range of animals from wolf
eels and flashlight fish to ancient nautilus.
There is also a larger 100,000-litre display
giving visitors a view of what goes on
beneath the surface of the North Sea, with
a range of animals including bull huss
sharks and Ballan wrasse, both of which
breed successfully in the display,
20/08/2012 00:09:34
Redtail catfish in
the Amazon display,
Behind the scenes –
coral-feeding experiment,
Jellyfish, Twilight Zone,
bred at The Deep.
Behind the scenes – Endless
Oceans Biotower and Degas
towers and return pumps,
20/08/2012 00:09:41
Zebra shark in Endless Ocean,
Wolf eel in Cool
Seas, courtesy of
The Deep.
Behind the scenes – major
shipment arrival – acclimation
process, courtesy of The Deep.
The Deep, Tower Street, Hull HU1 4DP
OPENING TIMES:
Daily between 10.00 a.m. and
6.00 p.m. (Last admission 5.00 p.m.)
TICKET PRICES:
Adult (16+) – £10.50; Children – £8.50;
Students and seniors – £9.50; family of
four – £34; family of five – £41.
WEBSITE: www.thedeep.co.uk
as well as other species of fish that include
scad, pollock, gurnard, mullet, and the
rather odd-looking John Dory, all of which
are now caught for the dinner table. A
nice display that catches the eye here is
that of the moon jellyfish, which are bred
at The Deep. The Kingdom of Ice has what
appears to be real ice walls leading to the
displays on krill, which feed on plankton,
and there is information on other creatures
that live in conditions below zero.
There are several other attractions
especially designed for children, such as
the Discovery Corner, where visitors can
touch crabs, urchins and sea stars, and
Slime, which is a major exhibition featuring
both marine and land animals, where one
can see huge African land snails and other
creatures that depend on having slime
to survive. Hullaballoo is a play area for
under-eights and is themed around the
Humber Estuary. The most exciting attraction
though, is Deep Blue One, where one takes
command of a deep ocean research
station, scanning the world for threats to
marine life, or investigating the Amazon
River, or hunting for killers of the deep. Here
one gets to stand behind a bank of touch
screens that not only give information about
all aspects of sea-life,
but also set problems
for one to solve.
This concludes the
tour of The Deep;
visitors make their way
to the exit at the top
of the building via the
amazing glass lift or
glass stairwell. There
is one last look at
some of the research
and conservation
projects that
The Deep is involved with, such as
breeding, including upside-down
jellyfish. Collaborative studies include
a joint SECORE project, studying sexual
reproduction in corals, reef rehabilitation
employing a reverse lighting cycle coral
nursery, and Equip Cousteau in the Red
Sea, studying manta ray populations.
balanced mixed diet of food and vitamin
supplements that keeps them very healthy,
so much so that many of the marine
species have been breeding on a regular
basis. Several different species have bred
over the years, including the live bearing
blue-spotted ribbon tail rays and several
sharks (epaulette, bamboo sharks and bull
huss sharks), where the female, following
fertilisation, deposits eggs containing
leathery brown cases called mermaid
purses, usually attached to seaweed. These
eventually hatch out into young sharks that
have to fend for themselves. Shrimpfish and
frogfish have also been bred at The Deep.
Food and drink is available at the
Observatory Café on the fourth floor. It
serves light snacks and full meals, and
offers diners great views of the Humber
Estuary. The Halfway Café, located near
The Cool Seas Zone, is also open during
busier times, but there is also an outdoor
picnic area that is available free of
charge. Another attraction is the Two Rivers
Restaurant, which is only open on Friday
and Saturday evenings, and offers diners
the chance to see sharks, rays and other
marine life while enjoying a Mediterranean
menu. On the way out of The Deep, the big
department store
sells cuddly toys, as
well a wide range
of other souvenirs.
Well over 100
people work at The
Deep, yet surprisingly
only 15 are there to
look after the fish.
The rest are there to
look after the human
visitors, to ensure
that they enjoy their
visit to The Deep.
The Deep, which is home
to 40 individual sharks and
14 different species, as
well as over 3,500 other
fish, is a great place to
visit because it is geared
towards entertaining
the whole family
BEHIND THE SCENES
Each of the large displays at The Deep
are self-contained, in that they all have
their own independent state-of-the-art
huge individual protein skimmers, sand
filters , UV sterilizers, etc., which service
individual tanks and keep the huge
volumes of water in pristine condition.
Additionally, all the tanks are subject to
regular weekly partial water changes, with
some 40,000-70,000 litres a week for the
Endless Ocean, while the smaller Lagoon
of Light, Northern Seas and the Amazon
displays receive 5-10% water changes a
week. In total, The Deep gets though 2-3
tonnes of salt a week, as well as 4kg of
remineralizer for the freshwater systems.
The fish at The Deep receive a
CONCLUSION
The Deep, which is home to 40 individual
sharks and 14 different species, as well as
over 3,500 other fish, is a great place to visit
because it is geared towards entertaining
the whole family. Highlights of the visit to
The Deep are the Lagoon of Light with its
colourful reef fish, and the Endless Oceans
with its glass lift and tunnel, allowing closeup views of sharks, rays and other ocean
fish. Additionally, the Amazon Flooded
Forest is a great recent addition to The
Deep. Children are kept occupied and
happy with the many hands-on interactive
audiovisual presentations throughout the
whole facility, and the submarine at The
Deep Blue One is particularly enthralling. So
far The Deep has welcomed over 2 million
visitors from the UK and abroad, and with
its very active education programme it
has an average of 30,000 school children
a year passing through its purpose-built
learning centre. There is plenty to see
and do at The Deep, with the tour taking
at least 2 hours. If you are in or near Hull,
you should consider making a visit. IT
20/08/2012 00:09:45
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20/08/2012 04:11:52
MARK OAKLEY
Age: 54.
Hometown:
Worsley, Manchester.
Head of PR for Sea Life
network.
Marine experience:
20 years.
Favourite
fish: Cuttlefish.
coral: Mushroom Corals.
other: Masked Crabs.
Specialist areas:
None really… though have
authored children’s books
Sharks and Cetaceans.
SEAL LIFE
In this issue, Mark Oakley takes a look back
at where it all started, and how Patrick the seal
helped us to progress and save hundreds of lives.
T
he Sea Life network operates one
of the busiest seal rescue and
rehabilitation programmes in
the world, and it all started by accident.
There are two strands to this story.
The first stretches back to 1958 and the
sleepy seaside town of St Agnes, where
resident Ken Jones found a small grey
seal pup stranded on the beach. Not
being the sort of chap to turn a blind
eye to an animal in obvious distress, he
picked it up, carried it home and cared
for it. Small beginnings, but this one act
of mercy was to lead to Ken building
his own rescue pool and taking in more
orphaned and sickly seal pups, and
even oiled seabirds. He was Cornwall’s
very own St Francis. Thus the Cornish Seal
Sanctuary was first established, and it is
amazing that Ken managed as well as he
did with just the one pool, for as long as
he did. By the early-’70s he was receiving
so many casualties that a move to bigger
premises was called for. It finally happened
in 1975, when a site was found on the
picturesque Helford Estuary at Gweek, and
the sanctuary has been there ever since.
Rescuing seals was certainly not
considered when a couple of years later,
fish farm veterinarian John Mace and
his son David sat down with architects to
draw up plans for the first Sea Life Centre
in Oban in the West Highlands. In fact, the
centre was already 2 years old when a
seal pool was finally added in 1981, again
a result of unforeseen circumstances.
The two events that precipitated the
addition occurred in quick succession
the year before. The first was the arrival
of Patrick, a very young common seal
pup still with traces of umbilical cord
attached, who was literally thrust into a
One-eyed Babyface, now
a permanent resident at
the sanctuary in Gweek,
Cornwall, is believed to
be the oldest common
seal in captivity at 33
years of age.
staff member’s arms by an anxious visitor
who had found him on a nearby beach
and assumed he had been abandoned.
The manager, Mike Causer, and his
team hadn’t the slightest idea what to
do with Patrick, but knew they had to do
something. Settling him into the warmest
spot they could find, they started ringing
round the country seeking advice.
Obviously nobody thought to steer them
in the direction of Ken Jones in Cornwall,
for they struggled to find anyone with prior
experience of seal rescue. Tragically, their
best efforts, including a variety of alternate
food concoctions, proved to be to no
avail, and Patrick passed away in just a
few days. The Oban team was devastated,
and was still effectively in trauma when
just a couple of weeks later they found
themselves caring for a second pup.
Luckily, the new orphan, Sally, was
A rescued grey seal pup, now
fully recovered and suitably
fattened up, is returned to the
wild from a beach in Cornwall.
091-093_SealifeP5_MH011.indd 1
19/08/2012 22:20:04
Seal Life > Mark Oakley
a little bit older and hardier than Patrick,
and this time her rescuers found a saviour,
a scientist at the Dunstaffnage Marine
Laboratories, with personal experience
of rearing a stray seal pup. Nurtured on
a diet of glucose and sprats, Sally was
soon splashing happily around a fish
quarantine tank, but she grew so quickly
that Mike realised that new and better
facilities were required if she was to remain
at the centre. Sally was
already so dependent
on her human carers
that a return to the wild
was not possible.
“We were going
through a learning
process,” Mike Causer
recalled a few years
later. “In our enthusiasm and determination
to keep her alive, the last thing we worried
about was the level of interaction she was
having with humans. Seal pups are so cute
and it’s all too easy to forget they are wild
animals, and that was the trap we fell into.”
So work started on the first of the
sanctuary’s spacious outdoor seal
pools, and it was ready for Sally to
take up residence by the spring of
1981. The rest, as they say, is history!
The sanctuary team soon learned the
wisdom of avoiding too much close
contact with rescued pups, thus enabling
them to retain their wild instincts and regain
their freedom once restored to peak health
and an ideal weight. There were, however,
three more early arrivals that ended up
staying. Lorne, Blondie and Gigha were
to become long-term residents, and they
not only watched a steady succession
of other rescued pups come and go
year after year, they
even produced a
few of their own.
Oban tends to care
mainly for common
seals, the smaller of
the two native species,
which are more
inclined to venture
into lochs and other inland waterways.
Meanwhile, the sanctuary down in
Gweek had grown steadily. It was soon to
be one of the busiest, if not the busiest,
seal rescue facility in Europe. Not surprising
really. Take a boat ride past virtually any
rocky island or outcrop off the coast of
Cornwall and you have a very good
chance of spying a grey seal stretched
out taking a nap! In fact, grey seals can
be found close to many coastal areas
around the British Isles. Britain is home
Britain is home to
around 100,000
of them, well over
half of the total
world population
to around 100,000 of them, well over
half of the total world population.
Grey seals are easily our biggest
meat-eating mammals. A full-size male
can measure 2.7m long and weigh a
colossal 233kg. Females are generally
much smaller, but even they can reach
1.7m and 154kg. The rugged Cornish
coastline is ideally suited to these hardy
creatures, and not surprisingly hosts a
sizeable concentration of them. There
are breeding colonies sited on remote
beaches, and even in dark caves, all
around this southwestern tip of England.
Unusually, grey seals give birth in the
winter, just when the weather is at its most
unfriendly. Pups are protected from the
worst of the cold by thick white furry coats
when new-born, and by a thick layer of
protective blubber once they are ready to
take to the water. In Cornwall, the creamy
white fur usually lasts no more than a
couple of days, because Cornish seal
pups take to the water much sooner than
their cousins further north, for example,
around the Shetlands. Here, because they
stay on land much longer, and because
the fur protects better against the cold
in the open air, it lasts much longer.
Unfortunately, sometimes this is not
enough to safeguard against injury
Every pup has its own foibles and
personality. Milo, a common seal
pup rescued by the Hunstanton Sea
Life Sanctuary, turned out to be a
big fan of ‘Old Blue Eyes.’ A Sinatra
addict on the animal care team
noticed that normally aggressive
and feisty Milo turned into a gentle
and co-operative patient whenever
Sinatra’s silky voice was booming out
of a cassette player. Naturally they
took full advantage of this discovery
to hasten Milo’s recuperation.
Hunstanton Sea Life
Sanctuary rescuers racing
the tide to get a sickly pup
back to the sanctuary.
19/08/2012 22:20:06
Seal Life > Mark Oakley
Found on a beach
at Easdale, Argyll in
November last year, grey
seal pup Holly weighed just
10 kilos and was very weak
and hungry. Two weeks
later she made national
headlines in Scotland,
having caused a footwear
crisis at the sanctuary by
chewing through eight
pairs of wellington boots!
She made news again in
February this year, when
released close to a grey
seal colony and filmed by
children from Barcaldine
Primary School for the
Glow website – the online
community for Scottish
schools. Their film was also
later uploaded to a new
website launched by the
Scottish Zoological Society.
The youngest rescued pups often need
bottle feeding at 4-hour intervals round
the clock, but there is always someone
willing to turn out at midnight or 4.00 in
the morning to help get them fed.
from being dashed against the rocks in
particularly bad storms. Violent weather can
also lead to pups becoming separated
from their mothers, and in Cornwall such
sorry circumstances as these often lead
to the hapless youngsters becoming
temporary residents at the Seal Sanctuary.
It wasn’t until 1992 that the Cornish Seal
Sanctuary and the Oban Sea Life Centre
became sister attractions within the same
organisation. They have since been joined
by newer rescue and rehab facilities at
the Hunstanton and Scarborough Sea
Life centres, and the Sea Life Centre
in Blankenberge, Belgium. Collectively,
these five operations successfully rescued
and rehabilitated more than 160 grey
and common seal pups in 2011.
Every release is the culmination of months
of hard work by Sea Life and sanctuary
care workers, whose toils frequently go
way beyond any contractual obligations.
The youngest rescued pups often need
bottle feeding at 4-hour intervals round
the clock, but there is always someone
willing to turn out at midnight or 4.00 in
the morning to help get them fed.
“Seeing a fat, healthy pup shuffle back
into the surf to begin its life in the wild is
always a really emotional occasion,” said
Scarborough’s resident marine mammal
expert Lyndsey Crawford. “It’s what we aim
for with every pup we rescue, but invariably
they are with us for at least 3 months, and
though we take care not to spoil them,
you can’t help but grow fond of them.
So it’s great to see them go, but there’s
always a little bit of sadness too.” MO
19/08/2012 22:20:08
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20/08/2012 04:42:27
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R S A P D I U L F L L A R O K S GM A R I
R E S HWA T E R H F L R S A P D I U L F
S AWR S R Y T X UC F R E S HWA T E R
L L A R O K S GM A R I S A W R S R Y T X
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FIND THE WORDS
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Unique
Optical
Close up view
Cleaning cloth
Locking suction cup
Aquarium
Inhabitants
T
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Experts
Magnification
Macro view
Depth of field
Tropical Marine Centre
Clarity
Diameter
B
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Quality
Easy
Nano tank
AquaHabitats
Reefkeeping
Inverts
Focal
ABOUT THE PRIZE
T
his is a new and unique product
launched at Interzoo 2012, on
sale September 2012. TMC have
developed a Spy Lens that allows you
to get a close-up view of your aquarium
inhabitants. It has a locking suction cup
that makes it quick and easy to install and
remove. It incorporates a high-quality
acrylic optical lens, and is supplied with a
cleaning cloth. It has a 3x magnification
main lens, offering an increased depth
of field, plus an integral 6x magnification
macro view lens. This is an ideal product if
you want to view a particular species up
close in your aquarium.
WH AT YO U WI N
F
or this Wordsearch, Marine Habitat
is offering 10 very lucky hobbyists
the opportunity to win this brand
new Tropical Marine Centre (TMC)
product. The winners will each receive
one of the 90mm AquaHabitats Spy
Lenses, which is the more comprehensive
of the two models in the new range.
TOTAL RRP VALUE OF EACH
PRIZE IS £19.99
To win this fantastic prize, photocopy and complete the page and post it to us;
Fish Junkies Ltd., TMC Wordsearch, PO BOX 4838, Sheffield S12 9DU, England.
Name:
Daytime delivery address:
Postcode:
Telephone no:
Mobile:
Email:
Where do you buy your dry goods from?
High Street
Online
Both
What was your favourite article from this issue?
Where do you buy your livestock from?
High Street
Online
Both
Please photocopy this page to avoid
spoiling the magazine.
Winners will be notified in writing.
If you do not wish to receive further
information from Marine Habitat or its
associates, please tick here
Competition closing date: 12/10/2012
096_Wordsearch_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 03:12:19
R E S
S AW
L L A
HF L
UCF
Classifieds
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and The Fastest Growing
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www.thesaltybox.com
WHY NOT ADVERTISE IN THE CLASSIFIED SECTION
CONTACT US:
[email protected]
HAND PICKED LPS,
SPS & SOFT CORALS
FISH & INVERTS
Call us on
01803 844 498
www.southdevonaquaticcentre.co.uk
097-098_Classifieds_MH011.indd 1
20/08/2012 00:45:45
Classifieds
BECOME A MARINE
HABITAT STOCKIST
CONTACT US:
[email protected]
097-098_Classifieds_MH011.indd 2
20/08/2012 00:45:51
The closest thing
to sunlight!
JBL SOLAR ULTRA
fluorescent tubes
for optimum
aquarium lighting
TEST
Highly suitable to
simulate natural
daylight
IFM Geomar Scientific
Institute 2006
Optimise your lighting equipment with
JBL SOLAR ULTRA MarinDay (15,000 °K daylight)
and JBL SOLAR ULTRA MarinBlue (Actinic Blue)
Optimised using the results of light tests
on research expeditions!
www.JBL.de
20/08/2012 04:44:02
20/08/2012 18:24:49

FISH ROOMS

Transcription

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