The Local Palate - July 2016

Transcription

Georgia Virginia Beach Tortas Take Hook + Cook
Memphis in Alabama
Peaches
Revival
THE LOCAL
PALATE
FOOD CULTURE OF THE SOUTH
SUMMER!
Seafood
Salads
SHRIMP, OKRA, AND
CHERRY TOMATO SALAD
WITH A MINT
CHIMICHURRI VINAIGRETTE
RECIPE PAGE 45
40
RECIPES
INCLUDING...
A NEW TAKE ON TOMATO PIE
BOURBON CUCUMBER COOLER
BLUEBERRY BUCKLE
JOIN US ON AN
EASTERN SHORE
Getaway
DISPLAY UNTIL JULY 31, 2016
JUNE.JULY 2016
THELOCALPALATE.COM
Here, you don’t have to catch a thing
to create an incredible fish story.
Just look at any menu.
Enjoy the freshest, most amazing Gulf seafood served any way you
like at the many exceptional local restaurants dotting our Alabama
coast. From beachfront casual to white tablecloth, you’ll find yourself
GulfShores.com
in a whole different state of meals you’ll never forget.
877-341-2400
Celebrity Chef Dinners
•
•
•
•
Alon Shaya - June 9
Isaac Toups - June 16
Frank Stitt - June 30
Adam Evans &
Justin Devillier - July 14
•
Ryan Prewitt & Blackberry
Farm Brewery - July 21
•
Bill Smith - August 11
Info and tickets: FishersOBM.com/SouthernGrace
PROTECTING THE SOUTH’S ENVIRONMENT through the POWER of the LAW
South Carolina sweet tea
The spirit of Southern tradition. Sip and see what’s brewing from the
mountains to the sea, immerse yourself in the mythology of moonshine or
explore the one and only tea plantation on the continent. Satisfy Your Thirst
for adventure, and come to find there’s a story in every glass.
SatisfyYourThirstSC.com
Since South Carolina’s establishment in 1663, travelers have
had a taste for our homegrown spirits, ciders, brews and
beverages. Today, we’re still celebrating everything from
sweet tea and farm-fresh milk to craft beer and ginger ale.
From sweet muscadine to
pinot gris, South Carolina has
a wine for every palate.
Enjoy a glass of farm-fresh milk for a
taste of South Carolina’s state drink.
Sample a f light of craft beer from
one of the many breweries across
the Palmetto State.
South Carolina moonshine
straight from the still
Start your journey on the Satisfy Your Thirst Tour at one of
our many authentic distilleries, where you’ll discover the
entrepreneurial spirit behind our small-batch vodkas, rich
whiskies and of course, South Carolina moonshine.
Download the Satisfy Your Thirst
Tour App to start your adventure.
Sip your way through our homegrown stouts, IPAs,
ales and lagers at breweries across the state, and find
out why beer lovers far and wide count South Carolina
among their favorite places to kick back and enjoy
a cold one.
While year-round warm weather makes wine production
challenging here, our dedicated winemakers consistently
turn out award-winning red, white and rose varietals—
ranging from pinot gris and merlot to the quintessential
South Carolina sweet muscadine wines—available for
tasting at wineries from the mountains to the sea.
Along the way, stop by our many dairy farms for a taste of
South Carolina’s state drink, or experience the refreshing
flavor of bottled water that’s sourced straight from the
Appalachian Mountains. And for a peek into the history of
the South’s most iconic beverage, visit North America’s one
and only tea plantation.
From traditional recipes to modern mixology, we invite
you to embark on the South Carolina Satisfy Your Thirst
Tour—where you’ll discover a history of craftsmanship and
passion behind every pour. Download the Satisfy Your
Thirst Tour App in the Apple Store or on Google Play, and
start planning your SC Made adventure!
Please drink responsibly.
The Palmetto State is home to the
only tea plantation in the country.
{ EDITOR’S
LETTER
H
ERE IN THE LOWCOUNTRY,
summer means local shrimp.
Sure, we could score fresh
seafood anytime of year with a couple clicks of a mouse. But buying it
from the folks who caught it roots us
in our natural environment and connects us with our neighbors.
PHOTOS BY (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP):
JOHNNY AUTRY, TODD DOUGLAS, DANIELLE ATKINS
Take Kerry and Mark Marhefka, profiled on
page 42. They offer a Community Supported Fisheries (CSF) program in Mount Pleasant, South Carolina, which supplies customers with super fresh
triggerfish, snapper, grouper, and more on a weekly
basis. That spirit of community and place inspires
this entire issue: from Chef Bill Briand’s “hook
and cook” program at Fisher’s, his restaurant in
Orange Beach, Alabama,
where anglers can pop
in with their catch and
have it cooked to order, to
Memphis’ Las Tortugas
where Pepe Magallanes
and his son Jonathan
have channeled their
knack for entertaining and love of food into
second careers as restaurateurs. Seafood on the table
says special occasion, but we’ve got you covered for
weeknights too. In our Chef vs. Cook feature, cookbook author Sheri Castle takes a handful of knockout
summer salad recipes from Chef William Dissen of
Asheville’s The Market Place, and reinterprets them for
home cooks. Heirloom Tomato and Cornbread Panzanella?
Yes, please.
In our Interview (page 65), writer Cathy Barrow talks preservation with
fermentation revivalist Sandor Katz, who is on a mission to take back cultures—
both the microbial kind and the customs that define a society. As he writes in his
book, The Art of Fermentation, “Our cultivation of the land and its creatures—
plants, animals, fungi, and bacteria—is essential to culture. Reclaming our food
and our participation in cultivation is a means of cultural revivial.” We couldn’t
have said it better ourselves.
Margaret Loftus
Managing Editor
6
THELOCALPALATE.COM / JUNE.JULY 2016
“Until you’ve had some
meat, rice & vegetables,
you haven’t had lunch.”
-Merline Herbert,
Créole Lunch House
Lafayette, Louisiana
nd
un a e
j
a
lat
ed C
am ntric p n.
f
e
e
o
or
r m ravy-c a regi
u
o
n
g
nd
dia
with
tte e rice a ’s Aca
e
y
fa
na
th
e La ut it’s ouisia
t
a
i
soc
of L
e, b
y as ry far eople
a
m
a
p
You e culin els the
l
u
o
Cré that f
h
c
lun
Discover the people and stories behind
some of Lafayette’s oldest plate lunch
houses at LafayetteTravel.com/PlateLunch
INSIDE
86
CHEF WILLIAM DISSEN’S
AVOCADO TARTINE
FEATUR ES
THE SECRET IS THE SALSA
Jonathan Magallanes and his father, Pepe,
are keeping Memphians happy with their fresh takes
on tacos and tortas.
BY SUSAN PUCKETT / PHOTOS BY BRANDON DILL
74:
78 :
HOOKED ON FISHER’S
Beyond blackened, grilled, or fried: South
Alabama anglers trust Chef Bill Briand and his “hook
and cook” program at Fisher’s at Orange Beach Marina
to make their fresh catch great.
BY MAGGIE WHITE / PHOTOS BY TODD DOUGLAS
WHOSE PEACH IS IT ANYWAY?
South Carolina and California both
grow more peaches than Georgia, so how did the
Peach State make the fuzzy fruit its own? An early
tale of branding.
BY TOM OKIE / ILLUSTRATIONS BY AVRAM DUMITRESCU
86: CHEF VS. COOK
Home cook champion Sheri Castle keeps it
real with her spin on four salads from William Dissen,
chef at The Market Place in Asheville, North Carolina.
PHOTO BY JOHNNY AUTRY
68:
BY SHERI CASTLE & WILLIAM DISSEN / PHOTOS BY JOHNNY AUTRY
ON THE COVER: SHRIMP AND OKRA SALAD WITH MINT CHIMICHURRI. PHOTO BY HÉLÈNE DU JARDIN
JUNE.JULY 2016 THELOCALPALATE.COM
9
DEPARTMENTS
23: À LA CARTE
Tasteful samplings of the South
35: CONCIERGE
Fresh Catch
36: EXPERT PICKS
Where to eat in Virginia Beach
40: THE ESSAY
Oyster judge: Someone’s got to do it
42: NOTES FROM A FARM
Charleston’s Abundant Seafood
45: RECIPE
Summer staples sing
49: KEY INGREDIENT
Cucumbers break out
52: REDUX
The BLT, elevated
55: SEASON’S EATINGS
A July 4th picnic
61: SETTINGS
TOP PHOTO: JONATHAN BONCEK; LEFT: FORREST CONTS; RIGHT: MAC KILDUFF
Palm trees and crystals
65: THE INTERVIEW
98
CULINARY CLASS:
WE SAY TOMATOES
Fermenting with Sandor Katz
97: TEST KITCHEN
Form + function = fish spatula
98: CULINARY CLASS
Master tomato pie
101: EATYMOLOGY
The scoop on buckle
104: CALENDAR
What’s cooking around
Southern towns
116: THE FRIDGE
Seaweed smoothies, anyone?
10
T H E L O C A L PA L AT E . C O M
HUNGRY FOR MORE?
Visit us online for recipes, cocktail ideas,
kitchen tips, and delicious events.
GET MORE OUT
OF THIS ISSUE
Got a bumper crop of
tomatoes? We walk
you through the steps
of making a tomato
pie in this month’s
Culinary Class. If that’s
not enough, check online
for more tomato recipes
from chefs Damon
Wise and Brannon Florie.
#TLP2DAYTAKEOVER
MAKE A MENU JUST FOR YOU.
Want a look inside
a chef’s kitchen?
Tune in each month
as we hand over our
Instagram account to
the South’s best chefs,
mixologists, tastemakers,
and more. From
James Beard Awardnominated chefs to
seasoned brewmasters,
#TLP2DayTakeover
brings the best of the
culinary South right to
your phone. Follow us
today on Instagram
@thelocalpalate.
Whether you’re a mixologist in the making or
looking to whip up dinner with ingredients on
hand, we’ve got the tools to help. Check out
the recipes and beverages tabs on our website to mix and match ingredients.
@thelocalpalate
facebook.com/thelocalpalate
@thelocalpalate
@thelocalpalate
PHOTOS LEFT TO RIGHT: JULIE SOEFER; RINNE ALLEN
Follow us
Use thelocalpalate.com to create a personalized menu. Select dishes by region or search
through our recipe archives to find one that
features your favorite ingredients.
THE LOCAL
PALATE
FOOD CULTURE OF THE SOUTH
Publisher and CEO
Joe Spector
Need More
Greens?
Art Director
Jennifer Hitchcock
Managing Editor
Margaret Loftus
Associate Art Director
Laura Staiano
Marketing Director
Laurie Merrill
Events Manager
Sara Donahue
Director of Operations
Cara Musciano
Assistant Editor
Emily Storrow
Copy Editor
Keia Mastrianni
Graphic Designers
Rachel Harris, Georganna Moeri
Recipe Development & Online Content Manager
Christina Oxford
Marketing & Social Media Manager
Mary Pappas
Style Editor
Hayley Garrison Phillips
Contributing Writers
Cathy Barrow, Sheri Castle, Chris Chamberlain, Paula Disbrowe,
Amy C. Evans, Weston Fennell, Rien Fertel, David Hagedorn, Rene Louapre,
Allston McCrady, Alison Miller, Erin Byers Murray, Susan Puckett, Maggie White
Contributing Photographers
Danielle Atkins, Anna Routh Barzin, Johnny Autry, Andrea Behrends,
Jonathan Boncek, Andrew Cebulka, Reema Desai, Hélène Dujardin,
Chris Granger, Jenn Hair, Sara Hanna, Leslie Ryann McKellar
Illustrators
Avram Dumitrescu, Kristen Solecki, Daniel Velasco
Finance Manager
Sarah DaCosta
Sales Executives
Ashley Alderman [email protected], Courtney Flanagan
[email protected], Jo Neese [email protected], Matthew Nesbit
[email protected], Maggie Ponce [email protected],
Christy Spiegel [email protected], Betty Ward [email protected]
Interns
Samantha Connors, Barrett Federico, Elke Luria,
Taylor Schuman, Jessica Spence, Erin Laray Stubbs
Published by Peninsula Publishing, LLC.
496 King Street, Charleston, SC 29403 | 843.793.4876
Subscription services: [email protected]. Find us on Facebook: facebook.com/thelocalpalate
Twitter & Instagram: @thelocalpalate Comments: [email protected].
Advertising or editorial inquiries: [email protected] | [email protected].
The Local Palate KDV QRW LQGHSHQGHQWO\ WHVWHG DQ\ VHUYLFHV RU SURGXFWV DGYHUWLVHG KHUHLQ DQG KDV YHULÀHGno claims made by its advertisers
regarding those services or products. TLP makes no warranties or representations and assumes no liability for any claims regarding such
services or products. No reproduction of printed materials is permitted without the consent of the Publisher of The Local Palate magazine. Copyright
2015 by Peninsula Publishing, LLC Inc. All rights reserved. THE LOCAL PALATE is a registered trademark of Peninsula Publishing, LLC Inc.
GREENSBORO, NC
grandovergreen.com
DIGITAL EDITION
Delivering deliciousness to all your devices!
Need More
Greens?
IN EACH ISSUE:
Seasonal Recipes
Southern Cocktails
Chef Profiles
Gourmet Getaways
Culinary Classes
And so much more!
Digital Edition is available on iTunes Newsstand and Google Play.
Visit thelocalpalate.com to subscribe.
A subscription to the digital edition is sold separately from a print subscription.
Apple, the Apple logo, and iPad are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries.
Google and its logo are trademarks of Google, Inc.
GREENSBORO, NC
grandovergreen.com
{ C O N T R I B U TO R S
SHERI CASTLE is an award-winning food writer, recipe
developer, and cooking teacher living in Chapel Hill, North
Carolina. Her newest cookbook, Rhubarb, debuted April 15
from Short Stack Editions. Castle is a frequent contributor
to Our State and The Bitter Southerner. This month, she
writes about preparing restaurant-quality summer salads
at home (page 86). The key to making a recipe accessible to
the home cook? “Clarity,” Castle says. “Whether a recipe has
two ingredients or twenty, the
cook should feel well informed
on what to do and how to do it.”
Florida-based photographer TODD DOUGLAS, who shot Hooked on Fisher’s (page 78), lives in Fort Walton
Beach, where fresh Gulf seafood is easy to come by. This summer, he’s looking forward to surf fishing while
his kids play in the sand. “We’ll play ’till something hits the line, then clean it and
grill it up right there near the beach,” he says. “Some of our best seafood meals are
those calm nights sitting with family, eating a fresh catch, and watching the sunset.”
Douglas’ work has recently appeared in Mobile Bay Magazine, Business Alabama,
Emerald Coast Magazine, and USAA Magazine.
Originally hailing from Northern Ireland, artist AVRAM DUMITRESCU (Whose Peach is it Anyway? page 74)
now calls Alpine, Texas, home, where he teaches digital art, animation, and design at Sul Ross State University.
He illustrated Joan Reardon’s book, M.F.K Fisher among the Pots and Pans, and his work has been featured in
Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies, The Southern Review, and Ulster Tatler. While he’s a fan of the
fresh catch, the landlocked illustrator says he doesn’t get to savor seafood as often as
he’d like. “Back in Belfast, my dad fries monkfish in butter perfectly,” he says. “But as
we live in the desert, I usually have to make do with Swedish Fish.”
Photography has taken Charleston, South Carolina-based LESLIE RYANN MCKELLAR across the world,
including to Estonia last summer, “where I enjoyed my first (and probably last) bowl of elk soup,” she says. For
this month’s Eatymology department (page 101), she trekked to picturesque Sapphire, North Carolina, to shoot
Chef Adam Hayes’ blueberry buckle. “Canyon Kitchen is surrounded by
seriously gorgeous nature—quiet and elegant,” she says. “And the first bite
of the blueberry buckle made me want to kiss a grandma. Any grandma.”
Her work has appeared in Garden & Gun, USA Today, and on Eater.com.
“My father was a peach breeder for the USDA, so I grew up eating
pounds and pounds of peaches,” says TOM OKIE, who wrote this issue’s
Whose Peach is it Anyway? (page 74). “My favorite way to enjoy a peach
is fresh, preferably in the orchard, washed with water to douse the fuzz a little, and with cleaning
supplies close at hand for the aftermath of peach consumption.” Okie is an assistant professor of
history education at Kennesaw State University in Kennesaw, Georgia, where he teaches American
and food history. His book, The Georgia Peach: Culture, Agriculture, and the Environment in the
American South, will be published by Cambridge University Press this fall.
18
Soak up some history
while making some of your own.
Listen closely. Somewhere between the lapping saltwater waves, the ringing bicycle bells and the joyful
retelling of the day’s adventure, is the sound of everything that matters falling into place. Join us at
Montage Palmetto Bluff, where charming accommodations, a vibrant village, marina, golf
and restaurants bring to life the rich heritage of the South Carolina Lowcountry.
(866) 706-6565
M O N TA G E HO T E L S . C O M
PA LM ET TO BLU FF | BEV ER LY H ILLS | DEER VA LLEY | K A PA LUA BAY | LAGU NA BEACH | LOS CA BOS (OPEN I NG LAT E 2017)
To preview residential opportunities and our other destinations, visit montagehotels.com.
à la
CARTE
LIFE IN THE CULINARY NOW
[ PHOTO BY WHITNEY OTT ]
ON OUR
PLATE THIS
MONTH
24
UNDER THE RADAR
TLP’ S FAVORITE SOUTHERN SPOTS
25
bevRAGE
WHISKEY'S SUMMER SIDEKICK
28
WHAT TO READ
TOOLS OF TOP CHEFS
29
POPCORN SALAD
WITH PIQUILLO
VINAIGRETTE AT
ATLANTA’S EAT
ME, SPEAK ME
WHAT TO BUY
MOTHER SHUCKER STOUT
also: Birmingham’s Ovenbird / Eastern Shore Hideaway / Austin’s Kettle & Brine / Fig Liqueur
>>>
à la
CARTE
UNDER THE RADAR
A FEW FAVORITE SOUTHERN SPOTS
DURHAM, NORTH CAROLINA
Since the majority of bread available out there is
nothing short of a travesty, those adept at baking our daily carbs deserve heaps of praise. None
more so than the magical Loaf in Durham,
where former scientist couple Ron and Jaimie
Graff have deliciously perfected the chemistry
of sourdough. Market loaves fly off the shelves
and croissants are buttery edible heaven.
919.797.1254
MIAMI, FLORIDA
Rev your palate with a glass of Sancerre or rum
coconut cocktail as you prepare for your Alter
experience. Chef Brad Kilgore moves about
gleaming stainless steel surfaces in the open
kitchen, plating visual stunners such as shaved
cobia and grouper cheeks, each fi nessed
with complementary flavors. In the middle of
artsy Wynwood, you’ll be altered indeed…for
the better.
altermiami.com
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:
ALTER, LOAF,
OVENBIRD
With only four booths, seven bar stools, no reservations, and limited dinner-only hours Friday
through Sunday, one might wonder if trying to
finagle a seat at this “permanent pop-up” restaurant in Candler Park is even worth it. You’ll
wonder no more when Chef Jarrett Stieber
knocks your flip-flops off at Eat Me, Speak Me.
Be prepared for no attitude, no big city prices,
and no chance of getting the same thing twice.
eatmespeakme.com
BIRMINGHAM, ALABAMA
Sip on Ovenbird’s signature beer as you nibble
on jamón serrano over grilled bread and smoked
fish salad with charred lemon. Then select from
its seasonal cocktail selection, all designed to go
with the open-fire cuisine of Chef Chris Hastings (of Hot & Hot Fish Club fame). The beef
fat candle and spit-roasted chicken shine, as do
vegetables like charred broccoli with brown butter, avocado, and almond-cured duck.
ovenbirdrestaurant.com
24
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: GOURMANDJ; GEOFF CALDWELL; COURTESY OF OVENBIRD
ATLANTA, GEORGIA
à la
CARTE
DID YOU KNOW?
MARGERUM AMARO
CAN HELP YOU RECOVER FROM A NIGHT
OF DRINKING LARGE
QUANTITIES OF WINE,
AND COFFEE DRINKERS WILL LOVE THEIR
FAVORITE ICED COFFEE
WITH AN OUNCE OF
RAMAZOTTI AMARO
ADDED (SURREPTITIOUSLY) TO THE CUP.
bevRAGE
AMARO: ITALIAN
FOR BITTER, BUT BOY
CAN IT BE SWEET
BY TRAVIS BRAZIL
PHOTO BY DANIELLE ATKINS
The bar at 404 Kitchen in Nashville is
known for its whiskey collection, and
we’ve found one of the best gateways
to whiskey is through a cocktail. Some
people might conclude that an ideal
whiskey companion is a good amaro,
but I would switch that up: My favorite
pairing for a quality amaro is whiskey.
I absolutely love amaro; a good one
is more diverse than any other single
spirit. They also make the best option
as a digestive, with flavors that are immediately approachable for most patrons. With summer grilling, I am often
tricked into over-indulging on protein.
As a digestive, I’ve found amaro to be
a far better option than Tums. Another
warm weather perk is that they make
high-alcohol whiskies much more manageable for summer drinking, such as in
the Mayor’s Lament I share here.
Travis Brazil is the general manager
and sommelier at 404 Kitchen
THE MAYOR’S LAMENT
ITALIAN SUMMER*
This drink pairs well with meat,
and works wonderfully for those
who don’t want to switch to wine
at dinner. Shows how well amaro
works with bitters too.
Playing with the “Italian ice”
concept, this drink is such a
refreshing summer sipper, going
great with light fare like crudos
or sushi. The Moro blood orange
balances the sweetness.
1½ ounce Rittenhouse
100-proof rye
1 ounce Nardini amaro
6 (generous) dashes
Regan’s orange bitters
6 (generous) dashes
Woodford Reserve
spiced cherry bitters
2-3 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters
Build drink over rocks and give
a quick stir.
1½ ounces botanical gin, such
as St. George
1½ ounces Montenegro amaro
½ ounce lemon juice
½ ounce simple syrup
¼ ounce Strega
Moro blood orange wedge
for garnish
Build in glass and serve with plenty
of shaved ice. Squeeze and drop in
Moro blood orange wedge to finish.
Note: You can make this in
summer party batches too.
Just keep the ratios the same.
à la
CARTE
THE GETAWAY
Maryland’s Eastern Shore Calls
for Summer Celebration
BARTLETT’S BAR
IS A COZY SPOT
TO DRINK OR DINE
EAT-IN OPTIONS
YOU LOVE: the quirky, unique charm of a bed
and breakfast, yet want elevated details, excellent food, and none of that forced guest-toguest interaction.
YOU NEED: a sweet retreat in the heart of
town, one where the bed envelops you, the restaurant beckons you, and breakfast comes with
no specific wake-up call.
YOU STAY: BARTLETT PEAR INN
Right on the main drag in Easton, Maryland,
yet somehow feeling like a sumptuous secret,
the Pear is a gem made for couples getaways,
girls’ weekends, or anyone looking for an
eclectically comfortable respite from the
everyday. The Pear’s seven rooms each have
their own character and colors—befitting
the 1790s Victorian home—but are uniformly
outfitted with comfortable furnishings, luscious robes, and Malin + Goetz bath products.
It’s clear from the attention to detail in every nook and cranny that husband-and-wife
owners Alice and Jordan Lloyd picked the
right business to build together upon returning to their hometown in 2009.
26
“THIS IS OUR HOMETOWN; OUR DIRT-TO-TABLE FOOD PHILOSOPHY IS ROOTED
IN BEING SUPPORTIVE COMMUNITY MEMBERS. FORTUNATELY, WHAT’S IN OUR
BACKYARD IS USUALLY THE MOST DELICIOUS OPTION OUT THERE.” –Chef Jordan Lloyd
What to Order
To Drink
The Bartlett Pear Martini is dry
and delicious, with orange bitters
offsetting sweet fruit.
+
For Bakery Breakfast
The Parker House Sandwich, with egg,
sausage, and Swiss on a homemade
roll, is a no-brainer. Do the dunk with
a homemade biscotti, too.
+
For Dinner
Go with the chef ’s tasting menu, which
is available in 3-, 5-, or 7-course options,
with or without wine. If ordering à la
carte, don’t miss the foie gras “jubilee”
or the curry-dusted sea scallops.
TOMATOES
AND PICKLED
VEGETABLES
AT THE INN’S
RESTAURANT
PHOTOS BY JENNA WALCOTT
THE BOSC
PEAR THREEROOM SUITE
was likely pulled from the garden on the inn’s
Whether dining in the intimate bar or lovely, grounds that day. Breakfast is served at their
perfectly lit dining room, Chef Jordan Lloyd bakery across the street—and available until
will dazzle your ’buds with his largely
2pm, because lunchtime is also bluelocal fare. While global flavors
berry waffle time. The Bartlett’s
INSIDER’S
and ingredients do appear on
pickles and preserves are for sale
TIP
his menu (Dover sole and
at the bakery, as are local dairy
The Plein Air Art Festival is
European truffles, for examitems (the bakery is open to
the country’s largest juried art
ple), he’s most jazzed about
the public, so Easton resishow and infuses Easton with color
what’s growing in his own
dents regularly pop in for
every year in July. Another must
dirt. If you have any dish
milk and butter). Before
is First Weekend, when the first
weekend of every month means
with chicken or lamb, know
you go, be sure to snag a
extended hours for galleries
that the animals were raised
cupcake from the Cupcake
and shops while live music
by Lloyd’s farmer friends (a
Queen in the bakery’s market
plays in the street.
couple he went to high school
case because that PB&J cupwith), while your salad’s lettuce
cake is totally TDF.
ECLECTIC,
WELL-SEASONED
& UNIQUE.
With over 100 different eateries, drinkeries and anytime meeteries, there are plenty of tasty
ways to chow down in Hampton. Discover the fare of our fair city at VISITHAMPTON.COM/DINE
Celebrate
With Us!
From Father’s Day though the Fourth of July
All Natural Hubs make the perfect addition
to any Summer Celebration.
All Natural
•
Kosher
1.800.889.7688
•
Non-GMO
toll free
•
•
Gluten Free
www.hubspeanuts.com
à la
CARTE
BEHINDTHESCENES
COOKBOOK FOLLY
“For his kitchen tool, Christopher Kimball [founder of Cook’s Illustrated] spoke at length
about this double boiler he’d bought in New York City in the 70s. He’s still very excited
about it, uses it all the time, and said he’d send along a great recipe. Well, the recipe was
great—pot de crème—but guess what? No double boiler was used. It was too late in the
game to substitute another dish and Chris was pretty firm about not making adaptions,
so there’s the one recipe where the tool is nowhere to be found.” —Erin Byers Murray,
author, A Colander, Cake Stand, and My Grandfather’s Iron Skillet
WHAT TO READ
Bury Your Nose, Whet Your Appetite
skewer—for gauging the most accurate meat temperature. There’s also
career inspiration, as seen in the case
of the Kitchen Aid mixer that acted
as catalyst for a scientific researcher
to become a pastry chef. And then
there are the recipes. Transplanted
Southerner Rob Newton, of Wilma
Jean in Brooklyn, shares a recipe
called My Dad’s Fried Corn. With
a skillet as a tool, this corn is fried in
bacon fat; leave it to Dad to provide
the perfect summer side.
A COLANDER, CAKE STAND,
AND MY GRANDFATHER’S
IRON SKILLET(2016)
With thirty-seven of the nation’s top
chefs included in her latest book,
Nashville-based writer Erin Byers
Murray had a grand time learning
what tool was most indispensable
to each culinary personality. Accompanying a beautiful blend of
illustrations and photography, Murray shares the personal stories of
chefs and their instruments, things
that are “used as another appendage, basically.” Tales include helpful
tips, such as one chef ’s conviction in
his unusual method—using a metal
CANTALOUPE AND MINT YOGURT POPS
(ADAPTED FROM SWEETER OFF THE VINE BY YOSSY AREFI)
1½ cups seeded
and chopped
cantaloupe
1 cup Greek yogurt
(2 percent or
full-fat)
¹/³ cup mild honey,
plus more if desired
1 tablespoon packed
mint leaves
28
1 teaspoon orange
flower water
1. Combine all ingredients in blender or
food processor and
blend until smooth.
2. Taste and adjust
sweetness level by
adding more honey,
1 teaspoon at a time.
3. Pour into frozen
pop molds and
freeze until
completely firm,
6-12 hours.
Yield: 6 to 12 pops,
depending on
mold size
SUNDAY DINNER (2015)
With her introduction to
Sunday Dinner, Bridgette A.
Lacy describes, in vivid and
compelling language, how
the tradition of a weekly meal
throughout her childhood
indelibly and positively informed her very being. Balancing her personal memories
with inspiration for how to
create (or re-create) a beautifully big Sunday meal with
family and friends, the reader
can almost taste her Papa’s
Nilla Wafer Brown Pound
Cake. In fact, that sweet treat
can become your tradition
too, as it is one of fifty recipes that Lacy includes in this
recent addition to the “Savor
the South” series. This slim volume
tucks nicely into your bag as you
head to the farmers market, where
you’ll be inspired to gather the ingredients for Esther’s Summer Potato
Salad or Mama’s Meaty Crab Cakes.
Moreover, it will serve as constant
reminder that “Sunday dinner, especially in the South, is more than a
meal—it’s a state of mind.”
SWEETER OFF THE VINE (2016)
While there is thoughtful attention given to recipes for each of
the four seasons in Yossy Arefi’s
ode to sweet produce, the balance tips considerably when it
comes to her bountiful summer
offerings. Of course she can’t help
but go berry mad in the name of
the season with things like Blueberry Skillet Cobbler with Whole
Wheat Biscuits and Blackberry
and Sage Cream Puffs, but she
also gets our summer juices flowing for the less expected figs, stone
fruits, and melons (see recipe).
We might be toasting to a neverending summer over bites of her
Chocolate Celebration Cake with
Raspberry Buttercream, but come
fall we can’t wait to tuck into her
Lemon Verbena Olive Oil Cake.
Pie crust, pastry cream, and other
non-seasonal tips and tricks are included too.
à la
CARTE
WHAT TO PLANT & PRESERVE
By Weston Fennell // Illustration by Daniel Velasco
WHAT TO PLANT
The first time I encountered shishito peppers,
they were featured in a national culinary magazine as a trendy new bar snack: pan-roasted whole
with olive oil and garnished with crusty sea salt.
It was 2013 and the trend had not yet reached
the Lowcountry, but the Japanese-rooted Capsicum annuum was sweeping the nation. There was
something so inviting about the simplicity of this
dish, a pepper so good on its own that little manipulation was necessary to vault it to national
stardom. I ordered a case from Los Angeles on
the next cross-country produce load bound for
Charleston. When they arrived, I promptly
tossed a handful directly into a smoking-hot castiron pan. Sea salt at the ready, they were blistered
and hot in a matter of seconds. Smoky, sweet,
and slightly bitter, they were all the things a fireroasted pepper should be. But the real treat lay
in the seeds—normally removed from larger
peppers before cooking—that remained in
the pepper’s cavity and were toasted to a
nutty state reminiscent of popped corn.
One in every five peppers can carry
some heat, adding an element of
surprise. Yes, the shishito pepper had won my heart. Since
then, we have sold hundreds
of cases at Limehouse Produce and shishitos remain a
fixture at several restaurants
in Charleston. Sadly, they are
still not readily available to the
average consumer. If you want to
try them at home, you may have to grow them
yourself. They require warm weather, which
makes them a perfect choice for summer planting. Shishitos are fairly prolific, so one or two
plants potted in 10- to 15-gallon pots should
suffice for family consumption. Seeds are
available from Baker Creek Heirloom
Seeds.
WHAT TO PRESERVE
Fig trees in the South begin
to bear fruit in early June and
sometimes continue into July
or August, depending on the
variety, of which there are dozens. The most common strains are
Brown Turkey and Black Mission, but
in the Lowcountry alone we have the indigenous
Celeste, Marseilles, Green Ischia, Texas Everbearing, and others. Each has its own unique hue,
texture, and flavor profile, ranging from sugary
sweet to subtly savory, and their applications are
equally varied. Grilled figs with fowl represent a
significant departure from a more familiar place
alongside cheese. Cooked down into sticky preserves, they find their way onto biscuits. And as
anyone with a fig tree knows, once the fruit is
ripe, the race is on to harvest and consume them
before birds and other pests beat us to the punch.
If you’re lucky enough to gather a bucket or two,
the next trick is deciding what to do with them
all before they rot. Only so many can be enjoyed
as hand fruit, sliced on pizzas, diced in chutneys,
and marinated in balsamic before enough is
enough. But, one interesting application extends
shelf life and makes use of the fig’s surprising nuance: fig liqueur. Steeping the flavor of your favorite fig into your favorite spirit can be as simple
or complex a riddle as you choose. The purist in
me would suggest simply adding healthy chunks of ripe figs
to your favorite vodka for
a month or
two
before
straining
it
and enjoying the
delicate fruity notes
over ice. For a more adventurous spirit, add
fig chunks, crushed
pecans, and star anise to brandy or even
tequila for a few weeks to create
a complex taste worthy of praise.
The longer you leave fruit in the
liqueur, the stronger the flavor
will be. To make it a crowdpleaser, add sugar. Whatever
the case, you now have the
ability to enjoy figs in a manner you
won’t soon forget.
An escape that sparks a new kind of energy.
Escape to a destination above all other Hill Country resorts
and experience the new Loma de Vida Spa & Wellness.
Now accepting reservations.
LaCanteraResort.com | 210.558.6500
Retirement for Foodies
Considering the plentiful selection
of seafood found on the Lowcountry
coastline, it’s no wonder that
Franke at Seaside’s Executive Chefs
Nick Hunter and Frankie Scavullo serve a bounty of
southern inspired seafood specialties.
While this southern classic has many renditions, Franke
chefs take Shrimp and Grits up a notch with Charleston
shrimp; aged cheddar Geechie Boy stone ground grits;
bell peppers, onions and summer squash in chorizo
gravy; roasted Husky Cherry tomatoes; micro arugula
and charred lemon. Our residents love it, and you can
too. At Franke we elevate expectations.
Franke at Seaside
a serious culinary choice
843.856.4700
FrankeAtSeaside.org
1500 Franke Dr. • Mt. Pleasant, SC 29464
800.654.2924 • kiawahresort.com
SUMME R E SC A P E S
2BR VILLAS
from $369 /NT *
SANCTUARY from $545/NT*
Celebrate a taste of summer with coastal dining
MINGO POINT OYSTER ROAST AND BBQ | MONDAYS 6/6–8/29
A beloved Lowcountry tradition now in its 40th year
DINING AT DUSK SPECIAL | THE OCEAN ROOM | TUES.–SAT., 5:30–6:30pm
3-course prix fixe menu for just $49/guest
5 GOLF COUR SE S • 3 P OOL COMPLEXES • SPA • 10-MILE BEACH • TENNIS • VILLAS • THE SANCTUA RY
Proud Host of the 2021 PGA Championship
*Rates are based on availability for a garden view guestroom at The Sanctuary (midweek) or a two-bedroom Scenic View Deluxe Villa for June 11 – August 12, 2016.
Villa nightly rate is based on a seven-night stay. Tax and villa resort fee additional. Minimum night stay may be required. Not applicable to groups. See website for full details.
Little Rock’s dining and craft
food and beverage scene
is on the rise. Whether
enjoying a romantic dinner
for two, using our Locally
Labeled Passport program
to sample our city’s everexpanding offerings of
ales, wines and spirits, or
savoring any of the amazing
products our artisan food
producers are making,
there’s never been a better
time to enjoy great food
and drink in Little Rock.
IN GREATER LITTLE ROCK
• Little Rock named one of
“Five Secret Foodie Cities”
Forbes Travel Guide, 2014
• Loblolly Creamery’s ice
cream named a “Superior
Scoop,” Saveur, 2014
• One Eleven at the Capital
Semifinalist, Best New
Restaurant, James Beard
Awards, 2015
• Rock Town Distillery
“2015 U.S. Micro Whisky
of the Year,” The Whisky
Bible, 2015 Edition
• Big Orange Midtown
“Great American Beer Bars”
CraftBeer.com, 2016
Lost Forty Brewing >
To see more, visit
LittleRock.com
C O N C i E R G E
RAW MACKEREL OVER
RICE AND DASHI CUSTARD
AT XIAO BAO BISCUIT
SOUTHERN SEAFOOD
FRESH CATCH
PHOTO BY MAC KILDUFF
AH, SUMMER. Temperatures are climbing, days are long, and gardens
are overflowing with ripe produce. Come evening, the late sunset is
met with the low humming of wildlife in a Southern symphony. At
Charleston’s Xiao Bao Biscuit, Chef-owner Josh Walker captures a piece
of that summertime magic, preparing an artful crudo with fresh mackerel
sourced from Abundant Seafood, in nearby Mount Pleasant (profiled
on page 42). “Mackerel is a fattier fish that’s great raw,” Walker says. He
brightens the cold, raw fish with ginger, turmeric, and fermented chile,
and contrasts it with short grain rice and an egg and dashi custard. So let’s
dig in. Endless summer starts now.
PLUS...
> VIRGINIA BEACH’S NEW WAVE
> DREAM JOB: OYSTER JUDGE
> SHRIMP AND OKRA SALAD
35
C O N C i E R G E
SEAFOOD ISSUE
EXPERT PICKS
BEACH BOUNTY
The new Virginia Beach
This city’s perch, fronting the Atlantic at the
southern tip of the Chesapeake Bay, has long
lent it a well-deserved reputation for seafood.
But beyond the waterfront, wide swaths of fertile farmland burst with blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, and sweet corn. It’s fine fuel
for chefs in the city’s urban core, where a local
food revolution is gaining momentum, swiftly
turning this oft-overlooked Virginia city into a
bonafide culinary hot spot.
THREE SHIPS ROASTERY
Owners Brad and Amy Ewing specialize in Nordic-style (read: lighter) coffee roasts, which reveal
more fruit nuances than their more toasted contemporaries. Find them at their new arts district
digs, where you can try a pomegranate-limeespresso-tonic, or around town wielding cold
brew-filled growlers from their 70s-era camper.
coles735main.com
THREE SHIPS
ROASTERY
C O M M O N W E A LT H
BREWING COMPANY
Inspired by European
bierhalls, Jeramy and
Natalie Biggie transformed a Chic’s Beach
fire station into a destination brewery. The
beers, ranging from a
coriander and peppertinged Belgian lager
called Deliquesce to a
West Coast IPA named
COMMONWEALTH
Supernaculum,
are
BREWING COMPANY
guaranteed to boost
both your vocabulary and your palate.
commonwealthbrewingcompany.com
OLD BEACH FARMERS MARKET
Pick up Virginia cheese from the Creative
Wedge, chia berry jam from It
Started with a Fig, and a loaf
of rustic sourdough leavened
with wild yeast at this robust
market, held Saturdays from
8 am to noon in the parking
lot of Croc’s 19th Street Bistro.
It’s six blocks from the beach,
where you should promptly
tear into your picnic.
oldbeachfarmersmarket.com
NEW EARTH FARM
Guests of this sustainable
working farm attend classes
that span fermenting to foraging. Summer is prime time
for the Farm Table program:
You’ll spend the early evening harvesting ingredients
and, under the tutelage of a
top area chef, transform the
cornucopia into a multicourse dinner.
newearthfarm.org
36
HEARTH
Sit at the bar for a view of the kitchen, where
chefs Brad Bonham and Clint Compton deftly
turn out Neapolitan-style pizza from a woodfired oven. Whet your appetite with the woodfired double egg yolk: two eggs with oozy orange
yolks on a pat of chipotle-tomato jam, hiding
under a smattering of arugula and gruyere.
hearthvb.com
TERRAPIN
When Chef Rodney Einhorn opened this finedining spot ten years ago he went straight to
the farms and boats, forging relationships with
local purveyors at a time when doing so was
unheard of. Terrapin remains the primo place to
experience seasonal seafood in a low-lit, whitetablecloth environment. In season, try soft-shell
blue crabs straight from the bay, flour-dusted
and gently pan-fried in clarified butter.
terrapinvb.com
NEW EARTH FARM
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: CHRIS CONWAY; COURTESY NEW EARTH FARM; COURTESY OF THREE SHIPS ROASTERY
OPPOSITE TOP TO BOTTOM: ZOE GRANT; COURTESY OF AUTUMN OLIVE FARMS
By Alison Miller
MEET CHRIS LUDFORD
FOUNDER,
PLEASURE HOUSE OYSTERS
ESOTERIC
ESOTERIC
Many ingredients on the locally minded
menu come from an on site garden shared
with Commune (below). With thirty taps
pouring rare beers from all over the world,
it’s also one of Virginia Beach’s best spots for
craft beer. Local takes on pub grub like wings
and poutine pair with Mediterranean mezes, a
nod to co-owner Kristina Chastain’s Cypriot
roots. (Those dolmades? Her ya-ya’s recipe.)
esotericvb.com
COMMUNE
In October last year, chef and farmer Kevin
Jamison, director of education at New Earth
Farm, opened this buzz-worthy breakfast and
lunch café, where all ingredients are sourced
from within a 100-mile radius. Commune got
its start peddling crepes from a food truck, and
they’re not to be missed. Opt for a buckwheat
version topped with roasted veggies, crispy ham,
fried egg salad, and kale pesto. It’s aptly named:
The WDF (Whole Damn Farm).
communevb.com
Between 24-hour shifts as a fireboat captain, this seventh-generation waterman builds reefs with
recycled shells and harvests and
delivers Lynnhaven oysters to restaurants around town. In the late
nineteenth century, these brawny
bivalves were slurped down by
aristocrats in Paris and New York,
but pollution and overfishing all
but took them out by the 1960s.
Now, they’re flourishing once
again thanks in large part to the efforts of local conservation group,
Lynnhaven River. For the ultimate
ostreaphile excursion, join Ludford
for a tasting tour: You’ll cruise the
river at low tide, scoping out newly thriving reefs and taking
in tales from the iconic oyster’s
history. The experience culminates with a fresh oyster feast
on the shore.
What’s your favorite way to
eat oysters? Naked, straight
out of the shell, on ice. It makes
them a little more crisp. I like to
sit down with four of five kinds
from different regions and experience the true essence of the
oyster, the merroir.
Can you describe the flavor
of Lynnhaven oysters? They’re
briny up front and then as you chew
through them there’s a sweetness,
almost like a seagrass or seaweed
note. They’re not minerally, like a
Prince Edward Island or a European
Flat. Instead, you taste the marsh.
The best thing about a Lynnhaven
is that it’s well-rounded, very sweet,
and light on the palate.
Where in Virginia Beach are
your oysters served? We do
same-day harvest and delivery to
Terrapin, Commune, Zoës Steak
and Seafood, and the Cellars at
Church Point Manor.
If you could take anyone
out on your boat, who would
you take? Chef Mike Lata, of FIG
in Charleston. I see what’s going on
with the sustainability movement
around the country and a lot of that
comes from things that he’s done
in Charleston—he’s made a big
commitment to buying local and
supporting the environment. I’d
also take John Smith and George
Percy. Smith was one of the first
settlers of Jamestown in 1607, and
Percy was a naturalist who gave
the New World’s first flavor review
of Lynnhaven oysters. I’d love to
hear what they have to say about
where we are now.
FARM
TABLE
MEET
SEA
SHORE
DISTINCTLY NORFOLK
Get a taste of our waterfront city with
fresh catches from the Chesapeake Bay
and Atlantic Ocean. From southern fare to
international cuisine, savor it all in Norfolk.
)GVCVCUVGQHQWTNQECNƃCXQTCV
XKUKVPQTHQNMVQFC[EQO
1-800-368-3097
843.722.8100
186 concord street
fleetlanding.com
Waterfront Dining
& Delicious Seafood
Downtown on the Harbor
C O N C i E R G E
SEAFOOD ISSUE
A P E R S O N A L E S SAY
My Stint as an Oyster Judge
I PULLED A FRESHLY SHUCKED, SHIMMERING OYSTER
from a tray of ice that was being passed around
the table and immediately stuck my nose right
near the meat. The scent of the ocean and drying seaweed filled my head. The shell had a nice
deep cup that was brimming with oyster liquor—the bivalve’s salty juice. Slurping it back,
I felt the taste of sea brine fill my mouth followed by the lingering notes of mossiness, dried
porcini mushrooms, and whole cream.
The occasion was a prelude to the 2015
Hangout Oyster Cook-Off & Craft Beer Weekend, which took place in Gulf Shores, Alabama,
last November. Around me, a panel of fellow
tasters, fifteen of us in all, was performing the
same act: tasting, studying, examining, and
contemplating. We were all there as
guests of the festival, participating
in a once-in-a-lifetime oyster tasting—our job was take notes on,
and rank, twenty six oysters from
around North America, with provenances spanning from Prince Edward Island, to the Gulf, and up to the
Hood Canal. Split into two teams, we
were each given thirteen oysters over
the course of about two hours, and
asked to rate them on appearance,
smell, flavor, and finish; each oyster
could receive up to 100 points in all.
Having worked on an oyster farm in
New England a few years back, I’d experienced
my fair share of oyster tastings—but never surrounded by such exalted company. I sat among
some of the country’s most knowledgeable oyster authorities, including chefs Bill Smith of
Chapel Hill, North Carolina’s Crook’s Corner;
oyster dishes, while folks enjoy craft
beers and great bands. Basically,
it’s a two-day oyster love
fest. And last year, to amp
up the experience, they
added a North American Oyster Showcase,
a raw bar where festivalgoers could taste
freshly shucked bivalves
from around the country side by side.
I was asked to help curate the Showcase and
serve on the panel.
The tasting itself was conducted blind, so
that we wouldn’t know which oysters we were
tasting. We were told that the oysters were
grown around the country—it was our
job to rank them without judgment
about their origin. (Not an easy
task when you consider the regional
biases that build up around any beloved ingredient. Meet a New Englander and you’ll get an earful about
the superlative brine of Northern oysters; Gulf Coasters will just as quickly
fawn over the size and texture of their
Southern counterpart).
As soon as the oysters were served,
the room went quiet aside from the
sounds of sniffing, slurping, and scribbling pens. A few minutes later, the chatter began.
“I got a steak-like quality on that one. It
almost tasted like red meat,” offered Bahr after
the first oyster.
“That one was too tin-y for me,” announced
champion Toronto oyster shucker John Bil,
who speculated that he’d
tasted one from Virginia.
SLURPING IT BACK, I FELT THE TASTE OF SEA
Meanwhile, my own
BRINE FILL MY MOUTH FOLLOWED BY THE
notes were veering from
LINGERING NOTES OF MOSSINESS, DRIED PORCINI “big and bold” to “is that
feta?” to “smells yeasty,
MUSHROOMS, AND WHOLE CREAM.
like a bakery.”
Cory Bahr of Restaurant Cotton in Monroe,
A lover of Northern oysters, I could tell when
Louisiana; Michael Serpa of Select Oyster Bar we were tasting Southern varieties, but found
in Boston, and Alon Shaya of Shaya Restaurant myself thoroughly enjoying the guessing game.
in New Orleans.
The chefs around me, who were familiar with
The annual Oyster Cook-Off showcases the oysters in their own regions, were clearly
chefs from around the country who prepare feeling the same. At one point, Boston-based
40
Serpa leaned over to admit: “This one is
probably a Gulf oyster, but I actually kind of
like it.”
In between tastings, we received short
seminars, including a state of the union on
Southern oysters from Bill Walton of Auburn
University’s Shellfi sh Lab. (Alabama alone has
added thirteen oyster farms in the past several
years, with three more on the way).
As we reached our last round of oysters, I
tasted the bright notes of melon and cucumber
that highlight many West Coast oysters. One
particular beauty sang with salt, brine, and
a hint of watermelon. I gave it 100 points—
a winner across the board.
The following day, I made my way to the
trailer that contained the Oyster Showcase raw
bar. The scores were posted on a chalkboard
and I realized that my favorite oyster of the
night had been our overall winner with 93
points: a Hood Canal, Washington, variety
called Blue Pool, grown by the Hama Hama
Oyster Farm.
Nearby, I bumped into Gulf Coast oyster
grower Steve Crockett whose Point aux Pins,
grown in Grand Bay, Alabama, had scored 84
points. He was beaming. All of the Alabama
oysters had scored highly and he was particularly
proud of his region’s success.
“We’re coming along,” he said, noting that
they’d scored higher than some better-known
Northeastern varieties. “The Gulf oysters have held
their own, that’s for sure.” Our panel had done its
duty—enjoying every slurp along the way. COURTTHELOCALPALATE.COM / JUNE.JULY 2016
YARD LINDEN ROW
ILLUSTRATIONS BY KRISTEN SOLECKI
BY ERIN BYERS MURRAY
C O N C i E R G E
SEAFOOD ISSUE
NOTES FROM THE DOCK
IT TAKES TWO
BY MAGGIE WHITE
M
42
a Community Supported Fisheries program
(CSF). Meanwhile, Kerry is the one madly communicating with as many as thirty chefs around
the Carolinas—in addition to Charleston, they
also deliver their catch to Columbia, Greenville,
and Asheville—reporting what Mark is bringing ashore (the couple communicate via satellite
phone). Kerry is also currently the one serving on
MARK REGULARLY SETS OUT ON
THE AMY-MARIE AND IS AT SEA FOR
TEN TO TWENTY DAYS EACH MONTH,
CATCHING BETWEEN 1,500 AND
4,000 POUNDS OF FISH.
PHOTOS BY LESLIE RYANN MCKELLAR
en all over Charleston text Kerry
Marhefka nightly, her slumber
routinely interrupted by a string of
pings, each signaling another request from an
eager fella. As a mother and business owner,
Kerry needs those hours of rest. But she can’t
ignore the pleas. After all, if a guy is seeking something special—say, twenty pounds
of mackerel, for example—he needs to know
whether it’s coming his way.
Kerry runs and owns Abundant Seafood, a
direct-to-consumer commercial fishing operation based in Mount Pleasant, South Carolina,
with her husband Mark Marhefka. Because
Mark’s face is often the one featured in the press
and the name credited on the menus, it’s not
immediately evident that this business is a fiftyfifty partnership. But it is.
It’s Mark who regularly sets out on the
Amy-Marie, at sea for ten to twenty days each
month, catching between 1,500 and 4,000
pounds of fish that will make its way into the
kitchens of the South’s most revered restaurants
and into the hands of eager home cooks through
because a lot of my job is administrative. No one wants to interview
me at work when they could be
out fishing with Mark.”
And Mark, with his bright
smile and shoot-you-straight demeanor, makes for compelling
press. He started fishing commercially in the late 1970s, following in his father’s footsteps.
When he met Kerry in the late
90s—she was a fishery biologist
at the time—he was on the ocean
about 260 days a year, a number
that reduced considerably after
the two married in 2000. Abundant Seafood, which has become
renowned for its personalized service and commitment to quality,
sustainable product, came to life
in 2006. Up to that point they
had been using a fishhouse to
sell their catch to the consumer.
That traditional model had its
advantages. “The fishhouse can
be your bank at times. If you need your life raft
repacked, which can be expensive, they’ll front
you the money. They’ll give you bait money,
fuel money…It’s really a safety net,” Kerry ex-
the advisory panel for the South Atlantic Fishery
Management Council (the people who make all
the fishery decisions from North Carolina to Key
West for federal waters, meaning anything from
three to two hundred miles offshore). She submits Mark’s catch logbooks to the council, she
runs the CSF, and, of course, she is on 24-hour
chef text duty. “What I do is not as glamorous as
what Mark does,” Kerry concedes. “I get no glory
plains. When Mark made the
decision to cut out the middleman, he accidentally did
so without consulting Kerry.
“Had he discussed it with me,
I would have said ‘no way!’”
she laughs. “I am the fear person. But it was the best decision he could have made.”
Aside from losing the safety
net, the new business model
also meant an increased workload. Between deliveries, communication, and relationship
building, it became a nonstop
enterprise. That meant the
Marhefka’s two children became involved too. “If we are
stressed about work, there’s
nowhere to hide, it’s coming right into the house,” says Kerry. This
summer their daughter, who is 12, will have
a chance to see more of the inner workings
of the business, while their son, 10, will go
on his maiden voyage with Dad. “I think it’s
important that they know and see that their
privileged life comes with a lot of hard work
and physical labor,” says Kerry. “We have to
say to them, ‘You want to
go on a vacation, and we
can, but then Daddy has
to be gone longer, to work
harder to pay for that trip.
Daddy doesn’t get paid vacation time.’”
Their children also understand that no event
is off-limits for Dad to
miss—save for Thanksgiving and Christmas. Says
Kerry, “Our daughter plays
travel soccer, and Mark has
only made it to one tournament. He’ll never be
able to a be a coach.” She pauses. “It’s not that
he’s not willing. He’s a total fifty-fifty partner
when he’s home, but our default mode is I do
it alone.”
It’s not gone wholly unnoticed, especially
among their most consistent clients, that
Kerry is as much a part of Abundant as Mark.
“Mike Lata is someone who’s always publicly
acknowledging that this is a family business,
Open for Weekend Brunch,
Dinner & Late Night.
Sushi : Wednesday - Saturday 5-10
RELAX, ENJOY, SHARE
and I thank him for that. He goes out of his
way to make sure people know that this is both
of us,” says Kerry of the award-winning chef of
FIG and The Ordinary. Josh Walker, owner
and chef of Xiao Bao Biscuit—and the guy
who needed those twenty pounds of mackerel for a crudo dish—also recognizes Kerry’s
role: “I hear from Kerry as much as I hear
LIVE MUSIC
from Mark. They both work so hard, and I
completely respect that.”
The business model will continue to evolve,
hopefully with Kerry’s role morphing into
something more dynamic. But the end goal
will remain. “What we strive to do is just make
a comfortable living for our family. We’re not
trying to take over the world, we just want to
take care of four people and our employees.”
7 days a week
462 King Street
Charleston, SC 29403
843.724.7400
republicreign.com
FOLLOW US ON
Summer on Shem
SCENIC CREEKSIDE DINING
S H E M C R E E K | M T. P L E A S A N T
TAVERNANDTABLE.COM
C O N C i E R G E
SEAFOOD ISSUE
RECIPE:
EASY SUMMER
LIVIN’
SHRIMP, OKRA, AND CHERRY TOMATO
SALAD WITH MINT CHIMICHURRI
VINAIGRETTE
1 pound medium shrimp, peeled, tail on
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 ears of corn
8-10 cherry tomatoes, halved
½ small red onion, diced
8 pickled okra, halved
1-2 big handfuls of arugula
Salt and pepper to taste
bowl and whisk in the oil. Set aside until
ready to use.
4. In a large serving bowl, gently toss all the salad
ingredients together, and serve with the chimichurri
vinaigrette on the side. Extra vinaigrette can be
stored in the fridge for up to 5 days and used on
poultry or steak.
Yield: 4 servings
Chimichurri Vinaigrette:
1 cup fresh mint (not packed)
1 cup parsley leaves (not packed)
1 teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2-3 garlic cloves, crushed
½ red onion, roughly chopped
1 lime, juiced
½ cup olive oil
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND PHOTO BY HÉLÈNE DUJARDIN
1. Season the shrimp with salt and
pepper. Working in batches, heat 1
tablespoon of olive oil in a 12-inch
cast-iron skillet set over mediumhigh heat. Once the oil is hot, place
enough shrimp in one single layer in
the skillet and sear on each side until
pink, about 3 minutes total. Repeat
with remaining shrimp and remaining
tablespoon of oil.
2. Remove from the skillet and set aside
to cool. Wipe the skillet clean and place it
back over medium-high heat. Sear the corn
on all sides until charred, about 10 minutes.
Remove from the skillet, let cool, and cut corn
off the cob.
3.Place all the vinaigrette ingredients except
the oil in a food processor. Pulse a few times until
finely chopped. Then, pour into a non-reactive
Shrimp, okra, and tomatoes always play well together
(we’re looking at you, gumbo). But tossed in a chimichurri
vinaigrette—inspired by Argentina’s classic accompaniment for grilled beef—these summer staples sing.
45
S U N D AY B R U N C H 1 1 A M - 2 P M
D I N N E R 4 P M - C L O S E D A I LY
513 KING STREET, CHARLESTON, SC
F O R R E S E R VAT I O N S C A L L 8 4 3 . 6 4 1 . 0 8 2 1
est. 1781
CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA
www.gdchome.com
FURNITURE
RUGS
MT. PLEASANT
695 COLEMAN BLVD.
843-849-0711
ACCESSORIES
LIGHTING
FABRICS
BEDDING
CHARLESTON
1290 SAM RITTENBERG BLVD.
843-571-5142
OUTDOOR FURNITURE
KIAWAH
420 FRESHFIELDS DRIVE
843-768-4246
Columbia, SC
460 King Street
Charleston, South Carolina
843.724.3490
eatatbasil.com
1465 Long Grove Drive
Mount Pleasant, SC
843.606.9641
RESERVATIONS & PRIVATE DINING AVAILABLE
HAPPY HOUR SEVEN DAYS A WEEK INCLUDES SPECIAL HAPPY HOUR APPETIZERS
KEYINGREDIENT
Cool as a
Cucumber
PHOTOS BY FORREST CLONTS
Chef Wesley Fulmer Revs
the Fruit into High Gear
WHEN THE SUN sits high in the
sky, approaching its summertime throne,
one of its quintessential subjects emerges
to make its prolific appearance. Cucumbers are one of the most refreshing fruits
of the season, vining plants that climb
toward the sky with the promise of making
a salad sing. Cucumbers produce refreshing flavors in raw form and play well with
acidic ingredients like vinegar. Pickles come
to mind, but Chef Wesley Fulmer of Motor
Supply Co. Bistro in Columbia, South Carolina, has other ideas. “I love the neutrality
of a cucumber,” he says. As a native Southerner who returned to the Midlands after
time abroad, Fulmer uses the fruit’s cooling
qualities as a backdrop for bold flavors and
herbaceous unions. He juices the cucumber for a Pernod-kissed broth paired with
coriander and fennel-dusted tuna amplified
by a cucumber salad tossed with vinegar
and mint. He plates his own interpretation
of the genteel tea sandwich with a cooling tzatziki sauce and smoked salmon, and
offsets savory chile-rubbed steak and butterbean succotash with a punchy relish. A
bourbon-cucumber cooler is on the menu
too, for a proper start to this summer
celebration. —Keia Mastrianni
49
5. To assemble, place vinegar cucumbers in bowl.
Ladle broth into same bowl about ½ inch up
the sides. Slice tuna into ½ inch thick slices
and fan over top. Garnish with smoked almonds
and scallions.
Yield: 4 servings
CRISPY ST. GERMAIN
CUCUMBER AND SMOKED SALMON
“TEA SANDWICHES”
12 slices white bread
½ cup olive oil
2 English cucumbers, peeled
3 ounces St. Germain liqueur
2 small radishes, shaved ultra thin
4 ounces smoked salmon
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 ounce American Hackleback caviar
(found in specialty food stores and fish markets)
Tzatziki Sauce (recipe follows)
1. Remove crust from bread. Using a rolling pin,
CORIANDER AND FENNEL-DUSTED
TUNA WITH PERNOD CUCUMBER
BROTH, VINEGAR AND MINT
CUCUMBERS, SMOKED ALMONDS
2 English cucumbers, peeled and chopped
into 1-inch pieces
2 tablespoons simple syrup
2 tablespoons Pernod liqueur or any
anise-flavored liqueur
1 teaspoon high-quality fish sauce
(preferably Red Boat‘s Bourbon Barrel
Aged Fish Sauce)
3 medium slicing cucumbers, peeled
1 red onion
1cup apple cider vinegar
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
10 mint leaves, finely chopped
1½ teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon whole coriander
1 tablespoon whole fennel seed
2 pounds fresh tuna loin, cut into 4 equal portions
¼ cup smoked almonds, crushed for garnish
3 scallions, julienned for garnish
50
1. To make cucumber broth, juice English cucumbers, sending pulp back through juicer until all juice
is extracted. In a small mixing bowl, whisk together
cucumber juice, simple syrup, Pernod, and fish
sauce until fully incorporated. Reserve in refrigerator until ready to serve. Reserve extra for Summer
Bourbon Cucumber Cooler (on page 108).
2. Next, make the salad. Shave cucumbers and red
onion using a mandoline. In a small mixing bowl,
whisk together vinegar, sugar, ½ teaspoon salt, and
black pepper until salt and sugar are fully dissolved.
Add cucumber, red onion, and mint, and toss to
combine. Refrigerate. For best results, make 2 hours
in advance.
3. In a small sauté pan, toast coriander and fennel
on low heat until fragrant, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. When cool, grind seeds
in a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle. Rub tuna
with oil, salt, and ground coriander-fennel mixture.
4. Coat cast-iron skillet with enough oil to cover
bottom of pan. Heat pan over medium-high heat for
3 minutes. Place tuna in heated pan and sear on all
sides, 1 minute per side, or until it gets a nice sear,
and is rare to medium-rare. Remove from pan, and
let rest in fridge.
roll each piece of bread until wafer thin. Coat
bottom of large sauté pan with olive oil, and place
over low heat. Lay bread wafers in pan, making
sure they do not touch. Sear wafers until golden
brown on both sides. They will crisp more as
they cool.
2. Using a peeler, thinly shave one cucumber into
wide strips the length of the cucumber, and let soak
in St. Germain for 20 minutes. Drain and reserve
cucumber ribbons.
3. Flake smoked salmon and place in mixing bowl
with olive oil, radish, and drained cucumber ribbons.
Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Slice second cucumber into ¼-inch-thick slices,
enough for 2 per wafer.
5. To assemble, drizzle 1 tablespoon of Tzatziki on
each wafer, then place 2 cucumber slices on top,
side by side. Carefully put smoked salmon
and cucumber ribbon mixture on top. Finish with
a scoop of caviar, and garnish with sprig of dill.
Tzatziki Sauce
1 slicing cucumber, peeled and
roughly chopped
1 lemon, juiced
1 clove garlic, chopped
½ cup crème fraîche or sour cream
6 sprigs fresh dill
½ cup aioli or mayonnaise
Salt and black pepper to taste
1. In a food processor, purée cucumber, lemon juice,
and garlic until almost smooth. Add crème fraîche
and dill, and process together.
2. Fold in aioli and season with salt and pepper.
Tzatziki should be smooth, but not quite as thick as
ranch dressing. If you need to balance the acidity,
add more lemon juice.
Yield: 4 servings
CHILE-RUBBED STRIP STEAK
WITH BUTTERBEAN AND BOILED
PEANUT SUCCOTASH, GRILLED
AVOCADO, AND CUCUMBER RELISH
1¼ cups olive oil
2 tablespoons sambal oelek chile paste
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon fish sauce
¼ cup flat leaf parsley, chopped
4 sprigs thyme, chopped
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon salt
4 8-ounce sirloin strip steaks
1 ounce vegetable or canola oil
1 red onion, diced
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 red bell pepper, diced
4 cups butterbeans, shelled and blanched
(buy frozen or at your local
roadside produce stand)
1 pound boiled peanuts, shelled
1 bunch fresh thyme, chopped
1 cup vegetable stock
1 ounce butter
Salt and black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons seasoned rice wine vinegar
2 firm avocados, pitted and sliced with skin on
1 large English cucumber, peeled, and seeded
1 lime, zested and juiced
2 shallots, diced
¼ bunch fresh cilantro, finely chopped with stems
1. In a medium mixing bowl, combine 1 cup olive oil,
chile paste, garlic, fish sauce, parsley, thyme, salt, and
pepper and whisk vigorously. Add strip steaks to bowl,
and marinate 45 minutes to an hour. Remove steaks
from marinade, and season with salt and pepper.
2. In a dry cast-iron skillet over high heat, add steaks
and sear on all sides, and cook to desired temperature. As a rule of thumb when cooking red meat,
take steaks off the heat 1 temperature under desired
temperature. (If medium is desired, then take off at
medium rare.) When done, let steaks rest
for 15 minutes.
3. In a medium sauté pan on medium-low heat, coat
pan with vegetable oil and sweat red onion, garlic,
and red pepper until onions are soft and translucent.
Turn heat up to medium-high, and add butterbeans,
boiled peanuts, and thyme. Add stock and simmer
for about 5 minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper.
To finish, slowly mix in butter until it comes together
and no standing broth is present. Take off heat and
set aside.
4. Preheat grill to medium. In a small mixing bowl,
combine ¼ cup olive oil, rice wine vinegar, and
avocado, and gently toss to coat avocado. Season
with salt and pepper.
5. Place avocado on grill (a cast-iron skillet
works in a pinch too), and grill avocado slices
on both sides to get a little color or grill marks.
Set aside to cool.
6. Quarter English cucumber and slice into ¼-inch
pieces. Place in mixing bowl. When avocado has
cooled, remove from skin and rough chop into
½-inch chunks, and add to bowl with cucumber.
Add lime zest and juice, shallot, cilantro, and season
with salt and pepper to taste.
7. Place succotash in center of a large plate.
Slice steaks and place 6 to 8 pieces on top of
succotash. Spoon relish over top and drizzle with
olive oil.
Yield: 4 servings
CONTINUED ON PAGE 108
RE
DUX
The BLT
Two Chefs Dish on Their Takes
PHOTO LEFT BY ANDREW CEBULKA
RIGHT BY JONATHAN BONCEK
The BLT Gets Even Better
When the warmth of the June
sun ripens tomatoes to peak
perfection, it’s high time to
incorporate them into one of the
season’s most beloved sandwiches. The BLT, or bacon, lettuce, and
tomato, sandwich is your moment
of summer zen, harmonizing ripe
tomato with the crunch of lettuce, unctous bacon, and a heavyhanded slathering of your favorite
mayonnaise. At Spero, Executive Chef RJ Moody credits his
grandmother, Betty Moody, for
making the best BLT. Her secret?
Cucumber. Moody pays homage
to Betty with his own version.
Over in Oxford, Mississippi, Chef
Mitch McCamey of the Neon Pig
takes a detour toward the funky,
with his revision. He begins
with “obnoxiously thick slices
of tomato” and pairs them with a
load of Benton’s bacon, fresh
farm greens, and a sweet and
savory “corner to corner” application of hoisin and house-made
harissa. —Keia Mastrianni
52
BENTON’S BACON BLT
FROM MITCH MCCAMEY OF THE NEON PIG
IN OXFORD AND TUPELO, MISSISSIPPI
2 slices crusty wheat bread
Hoisin sauce, thinned with a little water
Harissa (recipe on page 108)
6 slices Benton’s bacon, cooked
1 ripe heirloom tomato, sliced
into ½-inch rounds
Salt and pepper
1 handful seasonal greens, such
as arugula, romaine, butter leaf,
or mustard greens
1. Toast bread.
2. Spread hoisin and harissa on both
slices of bread, being sure to cover each
slice corner to corner. Top one slice of
bread with 6 slices of Benton’s bacon
and two slices of tomato sprinkled with
salt and pepper.
3. Finish with handful of greens and
place other slice of bread on top.
Yield: 1 sandwich
BLT FOR
BETTY MOODY
FROM RJ MOODY OF SPERO,
IN CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA
2 slices sourdough bread
Equal parts Duke’s mayonnaise and Kewpie
mayo (which can be found at most Asian
grocery stores)
1 ripe tomato, preferably Cherokee Purple
Iceberg lettuce
3 slices thick-cut black pepper bacon, cooked
1 small cucumber, peeled and sliced
1. Toast bread.
2. With toasted side down spread 1 slice of bread
with Kewpie mayonnaise and the other slice with
Duke’s mayonnaise. On the Kewpie slice, layer
tomato, iceberg lettuce, bacon, and cucumber.
Top with remaining slice of bread.
3. Cut sandwich in half and serve.
Yield: 1 sandwich
53
SEASON’SEATINGS
SPROUTED MUNG
BEAN CIABATTA
SMOKED PORK SHOULDER WITH CHILE SAUCE,
CRISP LETTUCE AND
CHARRED CORN
EMBER-COOKED
TROUT STUFFED
WITH SUMAC
AND THYME
Fired Up for the Fourth
Chef Nate Allen Celebrates Independence Day with a Picnic
PHOTOS BY CHERYL ZIBISKY
SEVEN YEARS AGO,
Chef Nate Allen celebrated
a very special Fourth of July
holiday in his new hometown of Spruce Pine, North
Carolina. On the cusp of
opening Knife & Fork, his
agrarian-inspired dream of a
restaurant, the chef took the
holiday to absorb and reflect on the imminent opening of the restaurant just two weeks away. “It
was so magical,” says Allen. “We were in the throes of creation, with all these hopes and dreams. We
allowed ourselves that day, to barbecue, to hang out, and continue to dream.” Today, the chef has
just as much, if not more, to celebrate. Allen was recently nominated as a 2016 semifinalist for Best
Chef: Southeast by the James Beard Foundation. In April, he joined four other chefs to cook a dinner
at the Beard House and recently invested in a build-out, which moved his street-side restaurant into
the same building that houses his second-floor bar and snack concept, Spoon. Allen is adamant about
closing his restaurant on the Fourth every year to indulge in what he calls “totally inconvenient and
luscious feasting” with family and loved ones. This summer feast uses the best ingredients of the season, from a refreshing cucumber melon salad to ciabatta baked on the grill and ember-roasted stuffed
trout and slow-smoked pork. If you’re not fired up for the Fourth by now, this menu is sure to
stoke your appetite. Cue the fireworks.—Keia Mastrianni
55
5 pounds bone-in pork shoulder,
cut in 4-by-2-inch chunks
(ask butcher to do this)
2 quarts beer or cider, plus more for
maintaining liquid in roasting pan
6 ears corn, with husks
2 sweet onions, whole and in their skins
2-3 heads crunchy butter lettuce, torn
1 lemon, juiced
1. To prepare chile sauce, combine chiles,
EMBER-COOKED TROUT STUFFED
WITH SUMAC AND THYME
4 whole trout, cleaned and deboned
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
4 tablespoons ground sumac
24 sprigs thyme
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Lemon, for finishing
1 handful arugula
1. Season trout with salt and
pepper, inside and out. Sprinkle
1 tablespoon of sumac inside
each fish and stuff with 6 sprigs
of thyme.
2. Drizzle fish with olive oil until
shining, and place directly on
hot coals. Look for bright red
and white coals. Allow skin to
char before carefully flipping
over, about 5 minutes. Flip
each fish over and char other
side. Don’t worry about coals
sticking to the skin—the idea is
to remove the skin when eating
the fish.
3. To assemble, place fish on
a big platter. Drizzle with more
olive oil and a squeeze of lemon
then top with few sprigs of
thyme and arugula.
Yield: 4 servings
56
SMOKED PORK SHOULDER WITH
CHILE SAUCE, LETTUCE,
AND CHARRED CORN
1 pound chiles of your choice
10 cloves garlic
1 cup sliced white onions
2 cups apple cider vinegar
1 cup sugar
Salt and pepper
garlic, onions, vinegar, and sugar in a saucepan
over medium heat. Bring to a simmer until
ingredients are soft and translucent (they should
look almost candied), about 20 minutes. Remove
sauce from heat, and let cool completely then
purée in a blender.
2. In a non-reactive dish, season pork with salt
and pepper and then cover with chile sauce,
reserving 1/3 cup. Cover and marinate for at least
8 hours, or overnight.
3. The next day, prepare your fire. When the
flames no longer lap at the grates, push coals to
one side. Fill an aluminum roasting pan with beer,
and place in vacant spot where the coals were.
4. Place pork onto grates over roasting pan, and
roast meat, turning occasionally until internal
temperature reaches 200
degrees, about 4 hours. Remove
pork from grill.
5. Place ears of corn and onions
directly onto coals, turning to
char evenly, until exteriors are
completely blackened. Remove
from coals and cool. Shuck corn
and remove outer layer of onion.
Discard husks and onion skins
by tossing into fire.
6. Cut corn into 2-inch pieces
and pull onion apart into leaves.
In a large bowl, toss corn and
onions with lettuce. Add pork,
lemon juice, and reserved 1/3 cup
chile sauce. Toss well.
7. Transfer onto large platter.
Garnish with edible flowers
from the garden or the wild,
like nasturtium flowers, bee
balm, honeysuckle flowers, and
borage. Set pork drippings in a
bowl and let guests dip bread
into drippings.
SPROUTED MUNG BEAN CIABATTA
Chef’s note: I have a Big Green Egg that I love to
use, but this recipe can be done on any grill or even
in the oven.
8 cups bread flour
3½ cups warm water
2 cups sprouted mung beans
2 tablespoons salt
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
Pinch of pepper
1. Mix to combine all ingredients in a large
2. Cream lard and sugar together in stand mixer,
until light and fluffy. With mixer running, add
eggs 1 at a time, incorporating fully before
adding next egg.
3. In a separate bowl, whisk together flour and
baking powder. Add flour mixture and buttermilk in
alternating batches to the stand mixer, beginning
and ending with dry flour mix.
4. Spoon cake batter into half-pint Mason jelly
jars and transfer to baking sheet. Bake for 30
minutes or until toothpick comes out clean.
5. While cake is baking, prepare the strawberries.
Toss with olive oil and place over a grill on high
heat. Turn strawberries frequently until they are
softened and lightly charred on all sides, about
3 minutes.
6. Put cream and honey into stand mixer and cream
together until soft peaks form.
7. When cakes are done and cool, spoon the cream
over top and divide strawberries among the jars.
Yield: 8 servings
RECIPES CONTINUED ON PAGE 108
non-reactive bowl. Cover and let sit at room
temperature overnight, about 14 hours.
2. When ready, flour countertop and use wet fingers
to pull spongy dough from bowl. On floured surface,
take rough circle of dough and fold 4 times, as if
using compass points, toward center to form a
square. Flip dough over and cut into 8 pieces. Transfer
dough pieces onto an oiled baking sheet, sprinkle
with flour, cover, and let rise for 30 minutes near grill.
3. In the meantime, bring grill up to 350 degrees.
When ready to bake, place baking stone onto
grates. If you don’t have a baking stone, place
piece of foil on grates, and drizzle with olive oil.
Working 2 at a time, stretch dough into long,
skinny baguette shapes and gently place on
preheated baking stone or on foil. Close lid and
bake until exterior becomes crispy and golden,
about 10 minutes. Repeat process for remaining
six pieces of dough.
Yield: 8 loaves
LARD CAKE WITH GRILLED
STRAWBERRIES AND
BASSWOOD HONEY CREAM
1 cup lard
1 cup sugar
1 pinch salt
2 large eggs
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ cup buttermilk
1 quart fresh strawberries, hulled
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups heavy cream
¼ cup basswood honey, or local honey
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
57
Furniture. Accessories. One-of-a-kinds.
www.celadonathome.com
1015 JOHNNIE DODDS Blvd. Mt Pleasant, SC 29464
SETTINGS
Beachside
Banquet
A Gathering in Orange Beach,
Alabama, Draws Inspiration
from the Gulf Coast
PHOTOS BY ROBERT RAUSCH
FOR LILLY ZISLIN, design sensi-
bility came at an early age. Her mother
was an interior designer and Zislin spent
much of her youth tottering around her
grandmother’s antique shop, Trifles and
Treasures, arranging elaborate parties for
whoever could attend—be it relatives
or just the family felines. Fast forward
several years (and a restaurant opening)
later and you’ll find Zislin carries much
the same spirit: She finds pleasure in
orchestrating a scene and watching as
her guests uncover its subtler design elements on their own, whether she is collecting the surf-and-sea inspired décor
of her oceanfront restaurant, The Gulf,
or taking on even larger projects like the
popular Hangout Music Festival that
she founded in 2010. “I love elements of
surprise and wonder, natural elements,”
says Zislin, whose twilight soirée combines a relaxed beach backdrop with
more dramatic accents, like amethyst
crystals and baroque wingback chairs.
“Design is about setting the stage,” she
adds. “Invite a cast of characters.”
–Hayley Garrison Phillips
61
COASTAL COOL BRINGS NATURAL APPEAL
Clockwise from right: 1. A centerpiece of vibrant amethyst crystals and quartz laced
with field flowers plays off the light of the setting sun. 2. Stick to a theme. “Most of the
furniture pieces at The Gulf are seaworthy, even the tables are made from old boats.” 3. “The
lavender crystals bring out the soft undertones of purple in oyster shells.” 4. Let nature do
the work for you. “In some cases it’s best to let the colors on the table remain neutral, as the
natural environment can be magnificently colorful. Here, I love how the grass pops off of the
white sand and the palm trees.” Opposite: Keep it simple. “Great design does not depend on
a huge budget. Less is more.”
1.
2.
3.
“Crystals have
an energy all
their own. I like
centerpieces that
are organically
made—not too
perfect and never
all the same.”
–Lilly Zislin
THEINTERVIEW
King of Kraut
TLP Talks Fermentation
with Sandor Katz
BY CATHY BARROW
PHOTOS BY DANIELLE ATKINS
IT WAS A CHANCE encounter.
A crock in the back of a Tennessee barn
and an overabundant garden. With salt
and cabbage, Sandor Katz made sauerkraut and it changed his life. He wrote an
award-winning book about it called Wild
Fermentation and became known affectionately as Sandor Kraut, the fermentation revivalist. He continues to explore
fermentation as a healthy practice, backed
up by science, cultural relevance, and historical significance. He sees it as a prism
for expanding the context we use to think
about food, from biological to economic
to cultural implications. His knowledge is
grand, wide-ranging, and deeply informed.
These days, Katz is on the road a lot. He’s
looking forward to programs in Vermont
and at home in Tennessee. We caught up
with him in Oregon, where he spoke at
an environmental law conference about
the “complex environment we have within
ourselves,” as well as those that exist in a
pail of milk or a cabbage. Katz says fermentation highlights this. “We have to
think about the environment as not only
something that is out there, but is
inside us, in every living thing.”
65
SK: I just planted radishes and onions before I left
last week and I will do more when I get back. I
love gardening, but I don’t garden on a big scale.
The same limitations that my itinerant lifestyle
places on my fermentation practice are placed on
my ability to garden on a large scale. I’m not trying to be hugely ambitious.
One of the things I love about having a garden
is just the parade through the year of different
things at different times. I’ve really gotten into
eating the vegetable plants at different stages of
their lives. One of my favorite delicacies are the
fresh radish pods, after the radishes go to seed. So
completely delicious.
The Local Palate (TLP): Since Wild
Fermentation was published (2003)
you’ve been on the road teaching fermentation. What happens in your workshops?
Sandor Katz (SK): Generally, I teach about fermenting vegetables. Call it sauerkraut, whatever. I
just did one last weekend in Eugene, Oregon, for
100 people and everyone brought their own vegetables from their garden—asparagus just pulled out
of the ground, one person had carrots, even okra.
I try to teach generic processes rather than
exacting recipes. Chopping, salting, seasoning,
pounding, squeezing, stuffing into jars. I teach
many other things, but if I’m going to teach people one thing, that’s what I want them to learn. In
terms of introducing people to fermentation concepts, that’s just straightforward, easy, fast, with
no special cultures or special equipment.
TLP: Fermentation, like canning, seems
to be everywhere. Is it a trend? Or is it
here to stay?
SK: This heightened interest in fermentation is
part of the broader interest in how food is produced. It’s not a fad that just developed. It’s hard
to think of bread or cheese or cured meats or
wine or even sauerkraut or kimchi as fads. I’m
glad that there is more interest in eating live-culture, fermented vegetables and this has given rise
to small, regional business enterprises, but it’s
not like any of them invented sauerkraut. There
are a lot of people who grew up in German,
Russian, Polish, and Ukrainian families and
their grandparents were making sauerkraut.
Then, in the ’50s, ’60s, and ’70s, as convenience
foods became dominant and came to be seen as
liberation from the kitchen, a lot of these family
traditions fell apart. It’s great that they’re coming back, but I don’t think it’s a fad. If anything,
these foods have enduring popularity.
66
TLP: Food preservation fills people with
fear. How do you answer the “will I kill my
family” question?
SK: In terms of any anxiety people project on the
process, which they do, there’s no case history of
food poisoning from fermented
foods. It’s just incredibly safe.
TLP: What’s a typical
dinner at your house?
SK: It varies so much. I’ll always pull out a jar of kimchi or
kraut, but it’s not like most of
what I consume is fermented.
Fermented foods are powerfully
nutritious. But it only takes a
little bit to get that probiotic
stimulation.
The nutritional principle that
I hold very close is variation, eating a lot of different kinds of things. I think you’d be missing
out on something if you didn’t eat fermented
vegetables at all, but it’s not like I eat primarily
fermented foods. I like a varied diet.
TLP: Your books speak lovingly of your
garden and the act of gardening. Being on
the road so much, do you try to block out
time for harvest?
TLP: Pickled fruit is showing up on menus
everywhere. Are you fermenting fruit?
SK: Usually, when I ferment fruit, I’m not pickling it. I’m making what’s called country wine.
Throughout the southeastern U.S., there are
robust traditions of country wines—elderberry,
blackberry, strawberry, dandelion, plum. I’ll do a few of these
every year. I love, love, love plum
wine. Later in the season, apples
and pears come and I have a
friend with a press and I’ll go
use the press and then ferment
that. Country wines are great.
I’ve made them with flowers, vegetables, culinary and medicinal
herbs. Once you figure out the
method, you can really be very
experimental.
TLP: Michael Pollan called you inspirational. Who inspires you?
SK: My father has been a huge inspiration. He
loves to garden. Loves vegetables. Contrary to
many people in my generation who hardly ever
had fresh vegetables, kohlrabi and celeriac and
other more obscure vegetables were on our plate
growing up. My father, in his 80s now, is still
gardening and cooking. And instead of conceptualizing in some abstract way what to cook, he
looks around at what he has and organizes a meal
around that.
TLP: What’s next for you?
SK: I have an investigative trip ahead of me with
an eye toward learning about vegetable fermentation in China. All the historical accounts say that
sauerkraut comes from China. There’s not a lot of
information about Chinese fermentation and I’m
so interested to understand it. I’m really excited to
be going on an adventure like that.
the
the
Secret is
Salsa
pepe magallanes and his son jonathan
bring fresh mex to memphis
by
Susan Puckett
photos by
brandon dill
1999, JOSE “PEPE” MAGALLANES AND
his two sons, Christian and Jonathan,
gathered at an airfield outside of
Memphis for an afternoon of skydiving. Pepe
had gotten hooked on the sport in his younger
days, and when he retired, he convinced his offspring to make it a family affair. After everyone
in their group had jumped from the plane and
floated safely to earth, they unstrapped their
parachutes to prepare for the next thrill: diving
into elaborate platters of chile-spiced fresh seafood salad and other authentic Mexican dishes
Pepe had prepared for the outing. “They were
blown away,” Jonathan remembers. “One of the
other skydivers asked Dad, ‘If you had a restaurant, is this what you’d serve?’ Until then, cooking had just been a hobby for him. But that got
70
him to thinking, why not?” As time wore on, and
the senior Magallanes grew increasingly restless
in retirement, he continued to ponder the possibility. Then he spotted an empty storefront in
a strip shopping center in the Memphis suburb
of Germantown, Tennessee, and in 2003—
despite having never worked in a restaurant—
he took a leap of faith and opened Las Tortugas
Deli Mexicana. “My only experience was watching the help in the house where I grew up,” says
Pepe. “When I was little, I used to get kicked out
of the kitchen for being in the way. After I left
Mexico and could no longer get those foods, I
taught myself how to make them. It became my
passion project to share what I had been missing with my new friends here in Memphis.” He
knew he would need a business partner. So he
called his son, who was then working in sales for
a paint company in Florida, and made a pitch.
“I said to Jonathan, why don’t you come back to
Memphis and help me do the best food in the
world,” Pepe recalls. “We had no business plan.
Zero. But Jonathan had restaurant experience, a
world-class education, and such a great love for
food and people. We could learn.”
ver the years, the simple menu of homecooked favorites they started with has
expanded, along with the swarms of customers who line up regularly at the counter to
order tacos filled with grilled red snapper and
avocado slices, fresh ears of corn rolled in spicy
lime-spiked mayonnaise and Cotija cheese, and
icy drinks or “aguas” made with puréed melon
and tropical fruits. Tortas, the other specialty, are
O
THELOCALPALATE.COM / JUNE.JULY
NOVEMBER 2016
2014
“Mexican cuisine is one of the world’s greatest
culinary treasures, the breadth is inexhaustible.”
sandwiches made on crispy, freshly baked bread loaves
called tortugas, which means “turtles,” referring to their
dome-topped shape. Among their signature tortas is the
De Oreja de Elefante (“elephant ear”), filled with thinly
sliced, griddled sirloin and onions, roasted tomato, and
roasted poblanos.
he Magallaneses’ efforts have won high critical
praise and national press, and respect from the city’s
top chefs. In 2014, Jonathan was part of a culinary
team that traveled to New York to prepare a Memphisthemed feast at the James Beard House. Pepe attributes
their success to “the ingredients and the hands that make
it.” Rather than rely on industrial food distributors for
their provisions, Jonathan picks them himself by hand,
from local farmers, international markets, and even the
neighborhood Wal-Mart. “We love having the freedom and flexibility to choose what looks good to us,”
says Jonathan, who was born in Memphis but has spent
ample time south of the border. His mother, Nancy, a
Memphis native, had earned her degree in
Spanish and was doing post-graduate work
in Mexico when she met and fell for Pepe,
a fun-loving businessman with an appetite
for big adventure who ran a large mining
operation with his brother. For years after
they married, the couple lived in Mexico
City until Nancy developed health problems due to the heavy pollution. They relocated to her hometown, and Pepe continued to travel back and forth to Mexico
City to help run the family business, while
making time for other interests like skydiving and motorcycle-racing. Jonathan—an
extreme sports enthusiast himself, having competed in Enduro mountain bike
races—spent summers and holidays at
his grandmother’s home in Mexico City,
where he cultivated a taste for the flavors
his dad would try to recreate at home when he couldn’t
find them elsewhere. “I was very blessed in that I got the
best of both worlds,” Jonathan says. “My mother and
(maternal) grandmother are both fantastic traditional
Southern cooks, and for our day-to-day meals fed us
things like pork chops and gravy, casseroles, homemade
biscuits, and chess pie. Dad has always loved to entertain, and would cook on the weekends and for special
events. He is such a master of seafood. For more than
one birthday, he made a veritable feast of indulgence for
me and my friends—with shelled lobster, king crab, and
jumbo Gulf shrimp, served over blocks of ice, and spicy
guacamole, vegetables, and lots of limes on the side.”
ike his father, Jonathan is self-trained in the culinary
arts. But while pursuing a business degree at Kenyon
College in Columbus, Ohio, and at the University
of Tennessee in Knoxville, he worked as a server in high-
T
CHICKEN TINGA TOSTADAS
RECIPE PAGE 73
the chicken tinga
tostadas is a vibrant,
multi-layered dish great
for summertime entertaining.
Jonathan Magallanes
suggests sautéing boneless
chicken breasts in a spicy
rub as a quicker
alternative. Don’t slice
the avocado until right
before you assemble it
to avoid browning.
L
end restaurants where he “developed an appreciation for
relishing the whole dining experience.” He expanded his
Spanish vocabulary—and deepened his palate—while
attending classes for a few semesters at Universidad
Iberoamericana in Mexico City, and then backpacking
with his cousins through Europe before returning to
the U.S. to embark in a sales career. “I think all these
experiences dovetailed together to make me a very curious chef,” says Jonathan, an enthusiastic home cook who
shares his father’s love of entertaining with friends. The
father-son duo’s gregarious personalities undoubtedly
contribute to the tiny restaurant’s almost cult-like following. Several years ago, Jonathan bought the business
from his father and he can typically be found at the counter taking orders and patiently explaining menu items to
customers more familiar with the ground beef-stuffed
burritos and hard-shell tacos that characterize Mexican
chains. On most days, Pepe, now 72, still zooms up on
his prized shiny red Viper motorcycle painted with gold
flames, ready to pitch in as needed, helping to expedite
orders on the kitchen line one minute and chatting up
customers the next.
n recent months, he and Jonathan have been preparing for the summer opening of a second Las Tortugas,
with a simplified menu focused primarily on tacos.
“The menu at the deli has grown into such a beast, it would
be hard to recreate it in another location,” Jonathan says.
The idea of extending their footprint beyond Memphis
excites him, he admits. Yet much as Jonathan enjoys
other cuisines, he’s never had the desire to stray from
his own roots as a chef. “Mexican cuisine is one of
the world’s greatest culinary treasures,” he says. “The
breadth is inexhaustible.” Even as they look to the future
for other ventures, one thing his dad can guarantee: “We
will always refuse to Americanize our food. We don’t put
cheese or sour cream on our tacos even if you ask.”
I
71
The Magallanes family loves to entertain, and while they
don’t serve mixed drinks at the restaurant, they’ll often
shake up fanciful margaritas at home. Here’s one of their
favorites, made with the pulpy edible fruit of a flowering
cactus, found in international markets.
PRICKLY PEAR MARGARITA
3 red prickly pears
¼ cup fresh lime juice
1/3 cup silver tequila
2 tablespoons triple sec
2 teaspoons agave
Lime wedge for garnish
Kosher salt for rim, optional
1. Peel and place 2 pears in blender
with the lime juice. Blend and strain through
a fine mesh strainer to remove seeds from
pear. Reserve pear-lime juice.
2. Combine tequila, triple sec, agave,
and pear-lime juice in a cocktail shaker.
Shake vigorously and pour over ice.
Peel third prickly pear and slice.
3. Garnish glass with a lime wedge
and slice of pear.
cumin, and garlic.
4. Return pot with the meat and onions to the
stove over medium heat. Add tomato mixture,
and 1 tablespoon tomato paste. Stir to
combine, then simmer 2 to 3 minutes.
5. Add corn, zucchini, and remaining sliced
onions to the pot. Add 1 cup of water; cook on
medium-low heat for about 8 to 10 minutes, or
until onions and zucchini are softened. Season
to taste with salt. Add more cumin, if desired.
6. Slowly add more water, if needed, to thin to
desired consistency. (Remember water dilutes
the flavor, so add slowly.) If soup is too thin, stir
in another tablespoon of tomato paste and cook
a few minutes longer.
7. Ladle into individual soup bowls. Add a
squeeze of lime juice and Tabasco to taste to
each serving. Garnish with chopped cilantro.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
Yield: 2 cocktails
PRICKLY PEAR MARGARITA
PEPE AND JONATHAN ARE
HANDS-ON RESTAURANTEURS
CARNE DE PUERCO CON
CALABAZA (PORK TENDERLOIN
SOUP WITH SUMMER CORN
AND SQUASH)
1 small pork tenderloin, up to 1 pound
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 small onion, very thinly sliced
Salt to taste
3 large, ripe tomatoes, quartered
1 tablespoon chicken bouillon powder
1/8 teaspoon cumin (or more, to taste)
1 clove garlic, minced (or dash garlic salt)
1-2 tablespoons tomato paste
Kernels from 3 large ears fresh corn
3 medium zucchinis, sliced ¼ to ½-inch thick
1 cup water (or more, as needed)
2 to 3 limes, quartered
Tabasco, to taste
1 bunch cilantro, leaves only, chopped
1. Slice tenderloin into small medallions, then
KING CRAB AND GULF
SHRIMP COCKTAIL
3 Alaskan king crab legs, cooked and shelled
24 Gulf shrimp, cooked and peeled
1 head romaine lettuce
½ cup finely shredded cabbage
Juice of 1 lime
Salt
3 radishes, sliced
Ritz crackers
Chipotle Cocktail Sauce
2 cups ketchup
3 limes, juiced
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons chipotle purée
2 tablespoons Tabasco
½ small onion, finely chopped
2 avocados, peeled, pitted, and roughly
chopped
1 bunch cilantro, leaves only, chopped
2. In a heavy-bottomed pot, heat oil over me-
1. Chill crabmeat and shrimp.
2. Wash and dry lettuce, then finely shred ½
dium-high heat. Add pork and 1 quarter sliced
onion, season lightly with salt, and sauté until
meat is browned on all sides. Remove pan
from heat, and set aside.
3. In a blender, purée tomatoes with bouillon,
cup and combine in a small bowl with shredded
cabbage. Chill shredded lettuce mixture and
remaining leaves until ready to use.
3. To make Chipotle Cocktail Sauce, combine
ketchup, lime juice, vinegar, chipotle purée,
slice each medallion in half.
½ teaspoon crushed chile de arbol or dried
red pepper flakes
1 sprig thyme, leaves removed and minced
Big pinch of salt
Big pinch of black pepper
Big pinch of oregano
2 tablespoons canola oil
6-8 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
1 white onion, finely sliced
10-12 (5-inch) whole corn tortillas, fried until crisp
Garnishes: fresh sliced avocado, Cotija cheese, pico
de gallo salsa, shredded iceberg lettuce, crema
fresca, lime slices
1. Prepare salsa and Pico De Gallo.
2. In a large bowl, combine garlic, shallot, chile flakes,
thyme, salt, pepper, and oregano.
3. Add chicken breasts to bowl, and rub with mixture.
Pepe Magallanes was famous
among family and friends for this
extravagant, chipotle-laced seafood
salad long before he and his son went
into the restaurant business.
and Tabasco in a medium glass bowl. Stir in onion,
avocado, and cilantro.
4. To assemble, place shredded lettuce mixture
in the bottom of a large glass dish. Season to taste
with lime and salt. Pour cocktail sauce evenly over
lettuce mixture; top with shrimp and then crab.
Cover and chill if not serving immediately.
5. Cover bottom of 6 martini or cocktail glasses,
or salad bowls, with a few leaves of chilled
romaine. Spoon salad mixture over lettuce
leaves, and garnish with sliced radishes.
6. Serve with crackers on the side.
Cover and refrigerate until ready to cook. (May be
seasoned and refrigerated the day before.)
4. In a large, nonstick skillet, heat oil over mediumhigh heat. Add chicken breast halves a few at a time
in batches (don’t crowd the pan). When cooked, finely
shred meat.
5. Combine salsa and pulled chicken meat in skillet
and stir. Add onion, and simmer 5 to 10 minutes, or
until heated through, taking care that sauce doesn’t
get too thick.
6. Spoon the chicken mixture over fried corn tortillas.
Garnish each tostada with avocado slices, crumbled
Cotija cheese, Pico De Gallo, shredded iceberg lettuce,
crema fresca, and a squeeze of lime.
Yield: 10 to 12 tostadas
CARNE DE PUERCO CON
CALABAZA (PORK TENDERLOIN SOUP WITH SUMMER
CORN AND SQUASH)
Yield: 6 servings
CHICKEN TINGA TOSTADAS
WITH SALSA AND CREMA
Charred Tomato and Chipotle Salsa (recipe
on page 110)
Pico De Gallo (recipe page 110)
3 large garlic cloves, minced
1 large shallot, minced
NOVEMBER 2014
2016
This light, fragrant soup is full of
summery flavors, and typical of the home
cooking Pepe was reared on in Mexico City.
WHoSE
PEĦpɀī°ȿ·
ČÉÂkĻÔ
The Story of How
Georgia Claimed
the Peach
By
Ğ ɀ;ĵy
Illustrations by Č¼j¹ĺ¬y²sķ
A
s a Georgian writing about
peaches for a Charleston-based magazine, I should start by acknowledging the obvious: The Peach State
doesn’t have all that many peaches. As of the last
agricultural census in 2012, Georgia had 12,318
acres of peach trees; South Carolina had 16,274,
not quite 10 and 13 percent, respectively, of the
nation’s total acreage, and
well below California’s
51,948 acres, about 40
percent of U.S. total
acreage. Last year,
Georgia’s 39,000
tons paled next
to South Carolina’s 69,000, both
of which were
dwarfed by California’s
559,000
tons. (Even if you fo-
74
cus only on California’s fresh-market production,
the state produced 253,000 tons, well over twice
the combined production of South Carolina and
Georgia.) Comedian (and South Carolinian) Stephen Colbert describes National Peach Month
as “thirty days of simmering resentment because
of the fraud perpetrated by the state of Georgia.”
I’m not here to set the record straight, nor to defend Georgia as the true Peach State. I may be a
Georgian, but I’m also a historian, which means my
job is to complicate, to contextualize, to shade the
bright glaring myths of the American past with the
subtler tones of nuance.
What explains the Georgia peach is history,
though perhaps not the sort of history you’d expect.
It’s not just that Georgians used to grow a lot of
peaches, like Maryland used to export a lot of terrapins, or like Colorado used to be home to lots of
bison. It’s that peaches emerged as a commercial
crop at a particular historical moment. It’s a story,
in other words, about timing.
From China to Georgia
Peaches are not native to Georgia. Nor, despite the scientific
name Prunus persica, do they come from Persia. Though, to
be fair to the Europeans who gave the fruit its Latin moniker, peaches did come to Europe via Persia. Still, the “Chinese
peach” is the world’s oldest and most dominant. There are ancient peach trees in China, perhaps as many as 1,000 years old
(the average American tree is less than thirty years old), and
the Chinese currently grow about three million acres of the
fruit, almost two-thirds of the world’s total production. Peaches didn’t arrive in North America until the sixteenth century,
when Spanish friars planted pits around their New World missions. It took only a few decades, however, for the fruit
to be thoroughly naturalized. Jamestown settlers
found them thriving on the Atlantic coast in
the early 1600s. A century later, Englishman John Lawson praised the ease with
which English settlers in Carolina could
grow what he called “Indian peaches.”
Though the Native Americans were not
technically correct in claiming these peaches as their own, they may as well have been. During Lawson’s stay in Carolina from 1708 to 1709, he
saw peaches fed to hogs, dried and pressed into cakes,
baked into loaves, squeezed into a “quiddony,” or paste,
barbecued over a fire, stewed in a pot, and fermented
into vinegar. In addition to eating the fruit in all these
ways, Native Americans used the bark and leaves and pits
to treat skin diseases, fever, nausea, and parasites.
At the same moment, on the other side of the continent, the Hopi taught the Navajo to cultivate the fruit,
and Navajo peach orchards were still in cultivation
as late as the 1970s in the Canyon de Chelly region of
New Mexico. So we could, perhaps, speak of “the Carolina peach,” “the Chinese peach,” or the “Indian peach.”
Instead, we have “the Georgia peach.” Why? To make a
very long story absurdly short and ridiculously simple, the
Georgia peach emerged in the half century between the Civil
War and World War I for three reasons.
For a region long associated
with a crop that was in turn
associated with slavery, poverty,
economic vulnerability, and
environmental degradation, the
new association with a sophisticated,
beautiful orchard crop seemed
like a godsend.
75
T
MID -NINETEENTH
century was a golden
era of agricultural experimentation, yielding a staggering cornucopia of biological
and culinary diversity.
Horticulture—a capacious profession that
included fruit growers, viticulturists, truck
farmers, landscape designers, nurserymen,
and garden clubbers—was at the forefront
of these experiments, bringing together ancient landraces with striking novelties, studying both the native flora and importing plant
material from all parts of the known world.
They believed that the greatness of America—and, indeed, of human civilization itself—depended on their ability to fi nd, breed
and ameliorate, and cultivate the right sort of
plants. And for the sake of this “great cause,”
they built an international correspondence
network of societies, botanical gardens, plant
explorations, nurseries, and farms.
Thanks to this network, the plant
explorer Robert Fortune discovered a large,
yellow-fleshed peach from the region around
Shanghai and sent it to Charles Downing of New York, who sent a seedling to an
amateur horticulturist in Columbia, South
Carolina, who in turn shared it with a Macon,
Georgia, banker. This “Chinese Cling” peach,
as they called it, became the genetic foundation of the modern commercial peach industry.
Plant scientists today call it the “second wave of
peach introduction.” In the 1870s, a few miles
south of Macon in Marshallville, Georgia,
a young man named Samuel Henry Rumph
planted some Chinese Cling in his experimental
orchard along with a number of other varieties.
A few years later, Rumph discovered a chance
seedling that produced large, fi rm, yellow freestone fruit. He christened the variety “Elberta,”
after his wife, and it went on to become one of
the most dominant fruit varieties of all time,
thanks in part to this international network of
horticulturists who quickly disseminated (and
praised) the cultivar. More Elberta trees grew
in the U.S. in the early twentieth century than
any other fruit variety; forty percent of Georgia’s production during the peach boom years
of 1910 to 1930 were Elberta peaches; by 1925,
it was the most widely grown peach in every
state but California. To this day, though few
commercial operations grow it any longer (its
skin is fuzzier and its flesh stringier than most
HE
76
contemporary cultivars), it’s one of the few varieties that consumers know by name.
The horticulturists’ dream was a South of exquisite gardens, lush orchards, and picturesque
vineyards. With the Elberta, they achieved a
small part of that dream. Orchards went in all
over Georgia in the late nineteenth century;
by 1925 there were five times as many trees
as there had been in 1890, and nearly 93,000
farms reported orchards. “Peach is now queen
in Georgia,” the newspaperman John T. Boifeuillet wrote in the Atlanta Constitution in
1896. “With her coming, burdens of adversity
vanish like mists before the rising sun.”
Sweet Spot of Commerce
If horticulturists like Rumph made the commercial peach possible, it was in the context of the
cotton South that the fruit became meaningful.
With the advent of successful peach cultivation, Georgia seemed to be the fi rst state in the
Cotton Belt to break with cotton monoculture,
which had expanded rapidly in the wake of the
Civil War. The South grew close to three times
as much cotton in 1900 as it had in 1860,
and grew much less of its own food (corn
and hog production in 1880 was half
what it was in 1860). And cotton
production was not producing the
dramatic wealth it had in the antebellum period. By the early twentieth century, to many observers, the
South seemed a singularly ugly and
uncivilized place. Georgia was “crass,
gross, vulgar and obnoxious,” Baltimore
journalist H.L. Mencken wrote in 1917; the
South as a whole exhibited a “unanimous torpor and doltishness” and a “curious and almost
pathological estrangement from everything
that makes for a civilized culture.”
I
n this context, to call Prunus
persica “Queen Peach” was not
just a clever personification
but a throne-usurping challenge to “King Cotton.” And for
a region long associated with a
crop that was in turn associated with slavery,
poverty, economic vulnerability, and environmental degradation, the new association with
a sophisticated, beautiful orchard crop seemed
like a godsend.
But of course these beautiful sophisticated
orchards, oases in the midst of aesthetic and
civilizational deserts, also needed to be profitable. Peaches boomed in Georgia thanks to the
Peaches boomed
in Georgia thanks to
the state’s newfound
connection, via
refrigerated railroad
cars, to the great
produce markets
of the Eastern
Seaboard, especially
New York City
state’s newfound connection, via refrigerated
railroad cars, to the great produce markets
of the eastern seaboard, especially New York
City. And it was a Connecticut Yankee rather
than a Georgia boy who set a new standard
for marketing success. John Howard Hale, of
South Glastonbury, Connecticut, had earned
his horticultural stripes raising strawberries and peaches on the hilly land outside of
Hartford. In 1890, while working for the USDA’s Agricultural Census, in a special survey
of the nation’s horticultural resources, he had
a firsthand look at some of the most famous
“garden spots” in American history: California oranges and roses, Washington apples,
Idaho potatoes. But little Fort Valley, Georgia, really got him worked up: “I just lost my
head when I got in that section of Georgia,”
he said later. He pulled together financing to
buy up a thousand acres, then another thousand, creating a peach farm that was one of
the largest in the world.
W
hat Hale grasped when he arrived in Fort Valley is that these
Georgia peaches enjoyed the
“natural” advantage of being
the first summer fruit in the northern markets.
Imagine being stuck in New York eating sauerkraut and turnips and brown bread all winter,
and you can see what a relief the summer fruit
season must have been–especially if it could
start a month earlier–and why the first fruit of
the season typically commanded the highest prices. At the
time, you couldn’t grow
peaches commercially
much further south
due to the fruit’s
need for cold winter temperatures,
so middle Georgia peach growers
would always be the
first on the market,
and could easily supersede New Jersey and
Maryland in the northern
markets, especially as those
mid-Atlantic orchards were in the
midst of a debilitating viral infection called
“the yellows.”
But Hale and other fruit growers also recognized that it was not just the natural resources
of the South that made profitable fruit cultivation a possibility, but the human resources as
THELOCALPALATE.COM / JUNE.JULY2016
FEBRUARY 2016
Orchards went in
all over Georgia
in the late nineteenth
century; by 1925 there
were five times as many
trees as there had
been in 1890, and
nearly 93,000 farms
reported orchards.
“Peach is now queen in
Georgia,” the newspaperman John T. Boifeuillet
wrote in the Atlanta
Constitution in 1896.
“With her coming,
burdens of adversity
vanish like mists before
the rising sun.”
well. He gave talks to northern audiences illustrated by lantern slides of his massive orchards
and packing sheds, his “peach hotels,” his outdoor cafeterias, and, above all, his workers.
Peaches Paid
This brings me to my last point. Perishable fruit
like peaches are a uniquely labor-intensive crop.
Even today, in an age of labor-saving (or labordiscarding) innovation, the peach harvest
is completely dependent
on human hands. And
the fact that peaches
rot within days of harvest means that growers need an enormous
quantity of manual
labor for a very short
period of time—a few
months at most. In
California, where a range
of perishable crops thrived,
migrant workers had almost
year-round employment, moving
from crop to crop: lettuce, celery, strawberries, avocados, peaches, citrus, hops, grapes,
almonds. In Georgia, where only peaches had
broad staying power, the harvest depended
on a rural population with few other options.
As it happened, peach season meshed serendipitously with cotton season: prune peaches,
plant cotton, thin peaches, chop cotton, harvest
peaches, harvest cotton. In a region where relatively little cash changed hands, even at “settling up” time when the cotton was ginned,
peach work could be enormously attractive:
paid in cash, at the time of the work, in a moment of acute poverty. A Wall Street Journal
reporter found in 1912 that the peach industry (along with watermelon and asparagus)
contributed close to five million dollars to the
middle Georgia economy in just six weeks. For
Nick Strickland, whose father owned a hardware store in Fort Valley, it seemed that the
peach harvest sustained the dry-goods economy of the entire town: “During peach season,
when those people came into town, they had
money in their pockets…they spent every
damn cent of it,” Strickland remembered in
2009. “Someone been smokin’ a pack of cigarettes,” Strickland explained, “peach season
get here, he smokes two packs.”
A
s long as Southern cotton production was labor intensive—and in
most places, workers continued to
harvest cotton by hand into the
1950s—peach growers had a reliable source of
workers. When that labor source began to dry
up in the latter half of the twentieth century,
either because workers had better opportunities
in cities or because they were no longer willing
to do field labor for white overseers, growers
began to cast about for other sources of cheap
labor: schoolchildren, German and Italian
POWs during World War II, West Indian migrants, and most recently, Mexican guestworkers under the federal H2A program.
A lot of the rhetoric surrounding the peach suggests that Prunus persica just naturally grows in the
South. That’s true, to an extent. But the fruit is not
really more suited to the South than anywhere else
in the temperate world. Talk peaches with folks
from other places, and you’ll find those who defend
Palisade peaches from Colorado, or Great Lakes
peaches from Michigan, or honey nectar peaches
from Shanghai.
No, the Georgia peach was made—by the
horticulturists who studied and bred it, by
the marketers who sought and sold it, by the
workers who plucked and packed it. It was a
creation, in short, of history. And this history
is worth remembering the next time someone
calls the Georgia peach a fraud, or defends the
Georgia peach as the only genuine article. Peaches
belong to Georgia only because peaches belong
to time.
77
HOOKED ON
FISHER’S
In South Alabama,
Chef Bill Briand Can’t Get Enough
of the Gulf’s Bounty
BY MAGGIE WHITE
PHOTOS BY TODD DOUGL AS
CHEF BILL BRIAND AND
THE HOOK-AND-COOK
OF THE DAY
W
E DO IT A BIT BETTER THAN MOST
people,” says Chef Bill Briand
about the “hook-and-cook”
program he runs through his
Alabama waterside restaurant, Fisher’s at
Orange Beach Marina. This seemingly risky
restaurant offering, where customers can hop
off of chartered fishing boats that have docked
at the marina and march right into Fisher’s—
no matter how busy the kitchen may be at the
moment—to have their freshly caught prizes
prepped and served, is exemplary of the chefsas-adrenaline-junkies stereotype. “It’s almost
80
always when we are busy as all hell that a ton
of people come in with their fish. But my guys
and I love it. We do it all summer. It’s nuts…and
really fun.” Though many people just want their
catches blackened, grilled, or fried, Bill and his
team are happiest when diners hand over their
sea booty accompanied by those three magical
words: “Whatever you want.”
For Briand, who cut his teeth in New
Orleans, working first for Emeril Lagasse and
then for the well-reputed
Link Restaurant Group
(Donald Link’s restaurants
include Pêche, Herbsaint,
and Cochon), moving to the
big fishing town that is Orange Beach came by way of
family. Through his brother’s
wife’s brother, Briand was
introduced to Johnny Fisher,
a Mobile, Alabama, native
known for opening New
Orleans’ House of Blues.
In late 2012, Fisher invited
him to the Oyster Cook-off
event at the Hangout, an
annual Gulf Shore festival illustrative of how well the sea and her bounty are
celebrated in these parts. While in town, Johnny
showed him the shell of the space that would be-
come Fisher’s. It was a quick decision. Briand and Fisher immediately got to work
on articulating what they both wanted in
a restaurant.
“We decided to create a ‘beautiful beach
house’ kind of feel, to juxtapose with the
fried seafood places that are all over the
place down here,” says Briand. Also of
utmost importance to the pair was that
they worked as much as possible with local
fishmongers and purveyors. To their delight, that seemed to be a priority of their
customers too. “People here want to eat
seafood, and they want to eat a lot of it.
More and more, our diners want to know
where things come from, so we bring in
local fishermen and oystermen and have
them talk to our staff who can then tell
our diners about what they are eating.”
In the summer high season, the two
restaurants under Fisher’s (Upstairs and
Dockside) draw about 2,000 diners daily,
most of whom are eager to try whatever
delicious dishes Briand has happened to
work up—whether his inspiration came
from a backyard grilling session with buddies, arose from local tradition, or developed from
a passing request made by a local. “You’ve got your
old-school diners who will always want a filet mignon and you can’t change that. But most people
will try anything. We can even get them to eat raw
fish,” he says, clearly pleased. And of course, Bri-
“It’s almost always
when we are busy as
all hell that a ton of
people come in with
their fish. But my guys
and I love it. We do it
all summer. It’s nuts…
and really fun.”
and can get them to eat what they caught themselves too, provided their fisherman’s confidence
doesn’t fly into high gear before the fish finds its
way into the chefs hands. “The only problems we
have with the hook-and-cook program are when
inexperienced people attempt to clean and fillet
their fish themselves and it comes in all chopped
up, just a mess,” he says, almost ruefully. Then that
chef adrenaline kicks in. “But we always figure it
out. We always make it great.”
Since freshness of
the fish is so important
when it comes
to ceviche, make
ceviche when YOU
caught the fish. I use
grouper because it’s
what I have access
to right now, but you
could do pretty much
any white fish here—
use flounder, red
snapper, halibut.
ALABAMA SHRIMP
AND GROUPER CEVICHE
(RECIPE PAGE 83)
As for the pasta, I still
recommend using egg
noodles, even if you don’t
want to make your own.
The yellow color looks
really bright and beautiful,
but it also tastes great
with this dish.
Alabama Shrimp and
Grouper Ceviche
lemon juice, salt and,
pepper. Set aside to cool
completely.
5. Prepare broiler on low.
6. Place 1/2 tablespoon of
cold butter mixture on
each oyster.
7. Broil until oysters begin
to curl (can also grill
if preferred) and serve
immediately.
Ceviche
3/4 pound grouper, diced
3/4
cup red wine vinegar
3 lemons, juiced
10 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 cup diced watermelon
1 cup diced cucumber
1/4 cup diced red onion
1 jalapeño, minced
1/4 cup chiffonade cilantro
1 1/2 tablespoons smoked paprika
1 tablespoon cumin
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon kosher salt
Cumin Crackers, for serving (recipe
page 109)
Yield: 4 servings
Cedar Key
Clams Pancetta
Pasta
Shrimp Poaching Liquid
1/2 gallon water
6 lemons, halved
2 oranges, halved
2 onions quartered
1 head garlic, halved
6 bay leaves
3 tablespoons salt
1/4 cup Louisiana hot sauce
1 teaspoon cayenne
1/4 cup seafood boil seasoning,
such as Zatarain’s or Old Bay
1. Combine grouper with vinegar
and lemon juice in shallow bowl.
Cover, refrigerate, and allow acids to
“cook” grouper for about 30 minutes.
2. While grouper is in refrigerator,
poach shrimp by bringing all poaching
liquid ingredients to simmer in
stockpot. Add shrimp, and simmer,
uncovered, until pink and tails curl
(2 to 5 minutes, depending on size of
shrimp). Cool immediately.
3. Chop cooled poached shrimp.
Add to large mixing bowl. Mix in grouper,
all remaining ceviche ingredients, and
serve immediately with Cumin Crackers.
Yield: 8 servings
Oysters Earle
1 packed cup garlic cloves, peeled
2 cups extra-virgin olive oil
1 bunch leeks, cleaned and roughly chopped
2 pounds unsalted butter, softened to
room temperature
ALABAMA WEST
INDIES CRAB SALAD
(RECIPE PAGE 109)
3 dozen oysters on half shell
1 lemon, juiced
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon pepper
1. Confit garlic cloves by covering in oil in
saucepan and simmering on low until soft,
about 1 hour. You do not want to brown
garlic. Strain, reserving both oil and garlic
cloves.
2. In same saucepan, cover leeks with garlic
oil and simmer until soft.
3. In food processor, purée leeks and garlic
cloves until smooth. Cool slightly.
4. Mix garlic and leeks with butter. Add
Any littleneck clams will
do for this recipe. We just
want to source as locally as
we can and Cedar Key grows
clams here in Florida. It’s
always better to know where
all your fish is coming from.
3 pounds clams, washed
2 bulbs fennel, sliced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil
Salt and pepper
1 cup diced pancetta
1/2 cup white wine
2 cups English peas
1 batch Pappardelle Pasta
(recipe page 109)
3 tablespoons butter
1. Preheat oven to
375 degrees.
2. Toss fennel with 1
tablespoon oil, season,
and lay on sheet pan. Roast for about 7
minutes or until golden brown.
3. Render pancetta in sauté pan set over
medium heat until crispy. Remove from fat,
and leave to drain on paper towel.
4. In large sauté pan, heat remaining 1
tablespoon oil over medium-high heat.
Add clams and rendered pancetta, then
deglaze with wine. Cover and steam
until clams open.
5. Remove lid, add fennel, peas, and prepared
Pappardelle. Once pasta is hot, add butter
and stir. Finish with salt and pepper.
Yield: 4 servings
83
As for the pasta, I still
recommend using egg
noodles, even if you don’t
want to make your own.
The yellow color looks
really bright and beautiful,
but it also tastes great
with this dish.
CEDAR KEY CLAMS
PANCETTA PASTA
(RECIPE PAGE 83)
Salsa verde is
probably my
favorite sauce
in the world; it’s
super garlicky
and herbaceous. I
would like to put it
on everything, but
it goes especially
well with this
snapper.
GRILLED WHOLE GULF
SNAPPER WITH
SALSA VERDE
(RECIPE PAGE 110)
chef William Dissen
and cookbook
author Sheri Castle
Take on a Salad
challenge with
the best of
this summer's
ingredients
by SH ERI CASTLE AN D
WI LLIAM DISSEN
chef
vs.
cook
DISSEN’S
AVOCADO TARTINE
(RECIPE PAGE 88)
photographs by JOH N NY AUTRY
‘‘
he
said...
n sweltering summer evenings, cooks in
the South welcome ways to conquer dinner
without overheating the kitchen. Chef William Dissen of The Market Place restaurant
in Asheville and food writer Sheri Castle of
Chapel Hill teamed up to take on that challenge by creating four summer salads that make a satisfying meal.
Dissen is known for his seasonal-driven menu: think
wild nettle cavatelli, roasted morel mushrooms, Benton's bacon lardons, and beurre monte. Castle has a
knack for transforming and translating chef recipes
into streamlined versions suited for busy home cooks
of any skill level. As the author of several cookbooks,
including a hefty 2011 tome titled The New Southern
Garden Cookbook: Recipes for Enjoying the Best from
Homegrown Gardens, Farmers’ Markets, Roadside
Stands and CSA Farm Boxes, Castle also enjoys helping her readers make the most of fresh produce.
Their approach was for Dissen to create four recipes
in his restaurant, and then Castle would tackle them
solo in her home kitchen. Perhaps the most notable
difference between chef-driven cooking for a whitetablecloth restaurant and home cooking intended for
the family table is hands: the ingredients kept at hand
and the number of hands involved in the preparation.
Restaurants have enviable ingredients with even more
enviable contributions from sous chefs, prep staffs,
DQGGLVKZDVKHUV+RPHFRRNVFDQDOVRƓQGH[FHOOHQW
ingredients, but they are often on their own for cooking and cleaning up, so each component, step, and
dirty dish counts.
In deciding how to streamline and simplify a chef
recipe, Castle stresses the importance of determining
which components are inviolable. If an ingredient or a
technique forms the heart and soul of the dish, you can’t
omit or change it to the point it is are no longer effective
or recognizable. There’s a difference between taking a
shortcut and running a recipe off into the ditch.
What’s a tartine? Really, it’s just a fancy word for
‘toast,’ but for me it’s a quick lunch…because who
doesn’t like a little runny egg yolk on their toast?”
CASTLE’S
AVOCADO
TOAST
(RECIPE PAGE 111)
Both Dissen and Castle agree that no matter the ingredient, quality matters much. Choose items in the
best form available at the time, which doesn’t necesVDULO\ PHDQ WKH PRVW H[SHQVLYH :KHWKHU FRRNLQJ IRU
HOHJDQFHDQGLQGXOJHQFHRUHFRQRP\DQGH[SHGLHQF\
it’s nearly impossible to cook your way out of the slough
RI EDG JURFHULHV <RX FDQ WXUQ D SLJōV HDU LQWR D ƓQH
sandwich, but a sow’s ear will never be a silk purse.
‘‘
she
said...
Instead of frying impossibly cute (and nearly
impossible to find) quail eggs, I prepared familiar
sunnyside-up eggs.
87
‘‘
Toast and tartine preparations are all the rage these days. At The
Market Place, we make an “everything” spice seeded bread
we crisp up in a cast iron pan and slather with a fresh
he that
avocado spread. We top it off with sunnyside-up quail eggs from
Farms. We then layer pickled red onions to cut
said... Manchester
through the richness of the avocado and eggs, a peppery
AVOCADO TARTINE
(Pictured page 86)
12 quail eggs
2 tablespoons blended oil*
Kosher salt to taste
Cracked black pepper to taste
Everything Ciabatta (recipe follows)
Avocado (recipe follows)
For Garnish:
3 radishes, shaved thin
Pickled Red Onions (recipe follows)
1 cup pea greens
1. Heat oil in a large non stick pan over
medium heat.
2. Gently crack quail eggs into preheated pan and
season with salt and pepper. Cook sunnyside-up until
eggs are coagulated, but yolks are still soft. Reserve.
3. To assemble, preheat oven to 500 degrees.
4. Slice Everything Ciabatta on the bias and brush
with olive oil. Place into oven, and toast until lightly
golden on cut side.
5. Place bread onto a plate and smear avocado
mixture evenly across ciabatta. Place 3
quail eggs across top of avocado.
6. Toss sliced radish in olive oil and season
7. Place sliced radish, pickled red onion rings,
and pea shoots across top of quail eggs.
8. Drizzle a teaspoon of olive oil across the top
of each tartine and sprinkle lightly with sea salt.
Serve immediately.
* Dissen uses a blend of olive and vegetable oils
bite of shaved radish, for crunch, and pea greens to finish.”
Everything Ciabatta
1¼ teaspoons dry yeast
4 ¾ tablespoons cold milk
2 cups cold water
2½ tablespoons vegetable oil
1.6 pounds high-gluten flour*
1 ½ tablespoons kosher salt
2½ tablespoons black and white
sesame seeds (50/50)
2½ tablespoons poppy seeds
2½ tablespoons sunflower seeds
½ cup egg wash
¼ cup Everything Spice (see recipe)
Pickled Red Onions
1 red onion, sliced thin
½ cup sugar
1
/3 cup salt
½ cup white wine vinegar
½ cup water
½ teaspoon pickling spice
1. Combine first 4 ingredients in bowl of an
electric mixer with dough hook attachment,
and mix on low speed to dissolve yeast.
2. Add flour and salt, and continue to mix on low
speed until ingredients are combined.
3. Increase speed to medium, and mix until dough
separates from bowl, and begins to climb dough hook.
4. Immediately place dough into a large, oiled
container. Cover dough with parchment paper and place
a lid over container. Keep overnight in refrigerator.
5. The next day, place dough out at room
temperature to double in volume.
7. Cut dough into 5½-ounce portions and
place on a parchment-lined sheet tray.
8. Brush top of dough with egg wash
and sprinkle with Everything Spice.
9. Place in oven and bake until bread
begins to brown, and sounds hollow when tapped.
Avocado
2 avocados
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt to taste
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped basil
1. Slice red onions and place into a container with lid.
2. Place remaining ingredients into a saucepan and
bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve sugar and salt.
3. Immediately pour pickling solution over red onions,
cover, and refrigerate overnight. Reserve.
1. Cut avocado in half, remove seed, and
scoop out flesh into a small bowl.
2. Add olive oil, salt, pepper, basil, and lemon juice,
and stir until chunky, but all ingredients are evenly
distributed. Taste, and adjust seasoning as necessary.
Reserve.
Yield: 4 servings
*King Arthur makes high-gluten flour.
Source at kingarthur.com
I kept the pickled onions and fresh sugar snaps and radishes,
she
said...
taking advantage of the pert, tasty greens that come
attached to fresh radishes, especially the fancier types.
William’s homemade Everything Ciabatta bread is delicious,
but it requires both time and bread baking prowess, so
I bought a loaf of high-quality ciabatta and mimicked the
flavor and crunch of his seasoning by sprinkling
the seed mixture over the top of the salad.
I like to balance
the dish with some
tang so we use
pickled rhubarb
to add some
zing...
asparagus
ROASTED ASPARAGUS,
WITH GREEN GODDESS
DRESSING AND
PICKLED RHUBARB
(RECIPE PAGE 112)
‘‘
rhubarb
I was thrilled when
William decided to add
tangy rhubarb to the mix.
His decision to pickle the
rhubarb is wise; it keeps the
she
said... rhubarb crisp and also balances
the richness of prosciutto and
egg. Rather than blend the Green
Goddess dressing in a small
appliance, I stirred together the
ingredients. I cooked the prosciutto and bread together in a skillet
to make croutons, and then used
the same skillet to roast the
asparagus in a screaming
hot oven until sizzling, to
approximate grilling.
With every bite,
the runny yolk
blends with the
ham fat, the earthy
herbs, and
vinegary tang
of the
rhubarb brine
to taste like
a fancy
French sauce.
90
ROASTED ASPARAGUS AND
RHUBARB RELISH WITH A
CREAMY HERB DRESSING
(RECIPE PAGE 112)
HEIRLOOM TOMATO
PANZANELLA
(RECIPE PAGE 113)
the English pea
‘‘
he
said...
Around the same time tomatoes are coming in, a variety of fresh peas are abundant. Adding English
peas to a simple basil pesto transforms it to another level. My friend Dave Bauer, from Farm
& Sparrow bakery and mill, has been sourcing and milling a variety of great heirloom corn that we use for
cornbread. We transform the cornbread into croutons for a nice crisp texture and use hand-pulled fresh
mozzarella to add a layer of richness, and charred shallots for a smoky addition.
91
panzanella
‘‘
she said...
Panzanella is traditionally made with leftover Italian yeast
bread, but it’s delightfully Southern to use cornbread instead. This is my favorite cornbread recipe:
skillet-born, sugar-free, and bacon-blessed, made with
freshly stone-ground cornmeal.
HEIRLOOM TOMATO AND
CORNBREAD PANZANELLA
1 pound miniature heirloom tomatoes, halved
Aged Sherry Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
1 pound marinated celigene mozzarella balls
4 cups cornbread cubes (recipe follows)
1 cup fresh or thawed baby green peas
2 large heirloom tomatoes, cored and sliced
½ cup (1 ounce) lightly packed whole basil leaves
1 ounce shaved Parmesan
1. Add miniature tomatoes to vinaigrette and let
stand 5 minutes, stirring gently from time to time.
2. Drain and reserve remaining oil from mozzarella,
and add cheese to tomatoes.
3. Add cornbread cubes and toss to coat.
Let stand 5 minutes. The outside of the cornbread
cubes should be moist, but not soggy. If mixture
seems dry, add a little more oil from mozzarella.
4. Bring a small saucepan of salted water to a boil.
Add peas and cook only until tender, 3 to 5 minutes.
Transfer to a bowl of ice water to stop cooking and
set their color. Drain and pat dry.
5. Divide tomato slices among serving plates.
Tuck basil leaves among slices.
6. Stir peas into miniature tomato mixture and
season with salt and pepper. Spoon over sliced
tomatoes. Sprinkle with Parmesan, and serve.
Cornbread
4 tablespoons bacon fat
1½ cups coarse stone-ground cornmeal
½ cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 large egg
1½ cups buttermilk, well-shaken
1. Put fat in a 9-inch cast-iron skillet and
place it in the oven as it preheats to 450 degrees.
2. Whisk together cornmeal, flour, salt, baking
powder, and baking soda in a medium bowl.
3. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and buttermilk.
Make a well in the center of the cornmeal mixture and
pour in egg mixture. Stir only until blended.
4. Remove skillet from the oven. Pour batter into hot
skillet, and bake until cornbread is firm in the middle
and golden brown on top, about 25 minutes.
5. Turn out onto a wire rack and let cool to room
temperature.
7. Cut enough cornbread into 1-inch cubes to
measure four cups. Save remaining for another use.
8. Spread cubes in a single layer on a rimmed baking
sheet. Bake until cubes are dry and lightly browned
along the edges. Let cool.
Aged Sherry Vinaigrette
½ cup oil drained from the marinated
celigene mozzarella or olive oil
3 tablespoons aged sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons minced shallot
1 garlic clove, minced
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon honey
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper to taste
Whisk together all of the ingredients
in a large bowl.
Yield: 4 servings
If the tomatoes are not delicious,
a panzanella will not be either,
no matter what else goes
into the bowl.
peaches
Peaches epitomize
summer. How can we
make them any better?
Wrap them in
Benton’s country
ham and roast
them in a
cast-iron pan.
TENNESSEE
HAM-WRAPPED PEACHES
(RECIPE PAGE 113)
‘‘
he
said...
94
For good measure we’ll put some of Matt Jamie’s Bourbon Barrel maple syrup over the top of
the peaches and serve it with creamy stracciatella (the creamy filling in burrata). This is a meal
in itself, but I like to add a lemony bite of red ribbon sorrel greens, and some candied and crumbled hazelnuts for
crunch. Round it out with some Georgia Olive Farms olive oil and you’ve got yourself
one hell of a summer salad.
she
said...
‘‘
Sweet, juicy peach slices wrapped in a
cummerbund of ham and cooked until crisp
is one the finest flavor combinations found in
summer, so I saw no reason to mess with it.
William uses a delicious but persnickety technique of boiling,
stretching, and shredding fresh mozzarella curds to create a
creamy product known as stracciatella. Its consistency
is similar to fresh ricotta, so that’s what I used.
To lend the bright flavor found in his Red Ribbon sorrel,
I added plenty of fruity Meyer lemon zest to
the ricotta and added the lemon pulp to the
salad. If you cannot find Bourbon Barrel maple syrup, look
for Grade B maple syrup. It has a deeper, richer flavor than
other grades. My favorite part of my salad is the
candied maple hazelnuts. They are lightning quick
to make, and fully addictive. I suggest making at least
three times more than needed so that you can succumb to
snacking and still have some left for the salad.
PEACHES IN PROSCIUTTO
OVER LEMONY RICOTA
AND HERB SALAD
(RECIPE PAGE 114)
BBQ
HQ
TM
We carry a huge selection of grills
& smokers as well as hundreds of
grilling tools & accessories.
BOWMAN PLACE • MT. PLEASANT, SC • 843-849-0390 • KITCHENANDCOMPANY.COM
testkitchen
Flip this Fish
TO TRULY SAVOR A GREAT CATCH,
STOCK YOUR KITCHEN WITH A FISH SPATULA
Even the savviest of cooks are familiar with the distinct frustration of a crackled and burnt fish skin
sticking to the pan (yes, even those “nonstick” ones),
the dismay of a delicate fillet separating into loose
pieces as it comes off of the pan. As simple as it seems,
the fish spatula, also known as the fish turner or fish
slice, can change the tide when it comes to a successful stovetop session. These seemingly basic devices
are prized for their usefulness not only for turning
fish while avoiding disheartening destruction, but for
myriad other tasks: the blade is longer and more flexible than other spatulas and the characteristic slots
make it easier to slide under food and drain grease.
PHOTOS TOP TO BOTTOM: BED BATH & BEYOND; MTC KITCHEN; WILLIAMS-SONOMA
ACCESSORIES
DE-BONING LIKE A PRO:
Remove tiny bones from fish with
these specially designed tweezers.
jbprince.com
UNIQUELY
USEFUL
Due to its length and flexibility, the fish spatula has proven useful for more than just
turning piscine palatables.
Its design makes it extremely
versatile in the kitchen.
1
2
No more scales. Use the long
edge of the fish spatula to cleanly separate fish from skin and
enjoy perfectly presentable perch.
Burgers and more. It may be
called a fish spatula, but that
doesn’t mean its usefulness
is exclusive: this tool is perfect for
flipping any meat you can think of,
as well as grilled vegetables.
3
4
Go for breakfast. The fish spatula
is more effective than any other
tool for handling delicate foodstuffs like pancakes and eggs.
Lasagna-lifting. The longer,
sturdier build of the fish spatula
means you can lift out portions
of casseroles and baked pastas
without the worry of it sliding off
onto the floor.
TAKE NOTE:
MAKE A CLEAN CUT:
Process your fresh catch
with the precision of a chef.
A filleting knife allows for
re flexibility and control.
wusthof.com
SPECIALTY
SPATULAS ARE
MADE FOR
LEFTY COOKS.
97
the culinary class
Sirens of Summer
You Say Tomatoes, We Say Pie
PHOTOS BY JONATHAN BONCEK
A
TASTE OF SUMMER, TOMATO PIE
is a Southern staple that celebrates “the sun-ripened sirens
of summer,” as the late food writer
John Egerton once described the
succulent fruit. From whimsically
named heirlooms like Brandywine,
Mr. Stripey, and Green Zebra, to
smaller varieties—call them cherry
tomatoes or tommy toes—by this
98
time of year, tomatoes are growing like crazy in gardens across the South. A traditional tomato
pie is prepared by layering vine-ripened tomatoes with a mayonnaise and cheese mixture in a
pre-baked pie shell. Fresh herbs, typically basil, brighten each layer and cut through the rich
filling. Pile the pie with the tomatoes of your choosing. Red tomatoes have a higher acidity, while
yellow tomatoes have more sugar. Pink are a blend of acid and sweet, and purple are sweet with an
earthy flavor. Green tomatoes are firm and sour. A few tips: For easy peeling, blanch the tomatoes
in boiling water, then plunge into an ice bath. This helps the skins peel off in a flash. After slicing,
drain tomatoes on a wire rack lined with paper towels, so even the juiciest of Cherokee Purples
won’t leave your pie crust soggy. To elevate the presentation, opt for a tart-style dish, as we’ve done
here. Want to amp up the flavor? Consider adding pancetta, smoked Gruyère, or goat cheese.
And take your pick of fresh herbs—basil, chives, rosemary, and thyme are all good choices.
TLP’s Tomato
Pie Filling
4-5 large tomatoes, peeled and sliced
1 cup mayonnaise
1 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1
/2 cup chopped onions, sautéed
2 teaspoons granulated garlic,
sautéed with onions
3 eggs
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
.yrassecen fi dedda eb nac klimrettub eroM .smrof hguod litnu xim dna erutxim rettub/ruofl ot erutxim otatop teews dd
1
2
SCORE AND CORE
Remove tomato cores with a sharp paring knife.
On opposite end, score an “X” in tomato skin.
4
3
TAKE THE PLUNGE
Using a slotted spoon, plunge tomatoes into a pot
of boiling water for 20 to 30 seconds, until skins
are just loosened. Transfer blanched tomatoes to a
bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process.
6
5
HIGH AND DRY
Place tomato slices onto a wire rack lined with paper
towels, sprinkle with salt, and let drain for 30 minutes.
This technique removes excess liquid while keeping
tomatoes flavorful.
PEEL OUT
Once tomatoes are cool, peel them by sliding a paring knife under skin and lifting, starting at the “X.”
Be careful not to cut tomato flesh. After peeling, slice
tomatoes into ¼-inch slices.
FILL’ER UP
To make filling: Fold together all ingredients except
for tomatoes, and spoon into a pre-baked pie crust
or tart shell.
MAKE YOUR ARRANGEMENTS
Arrange tomatoes on top, and bake in a 350-degree
oven until filling has set, approximately 20 minutes.
Remove from oven and garnish with herbs.
99
EATYMOLOGY
Blueberry Buckle
PHOTOS BY LESLIE RYANN MCKELLAR
[blü-ber-ē bə-kəl]
n: a baked dessert distinguished by its cakey texture and streusel topping
BLUEBERRY BUCKLE
likely arrived in America as
a glint in the colonists’ eyes.
Hankering for a taste of
home—steamed puddings,
mince pies, fools, flummeries, lardy cake—the new arrivals made do with what was
2016
NOVEMBER 2015
at hand. And come summertime in New England, that meant a bumper crop of wild blueberries,
native to North America. Originally served as a main course, buckles evolved into dessert during the
nineteenth century. While other summer fruit desserts like crumbles, crisps, and cobblers involve oats,
breadcrumbs, or biscuits, buckles take a hard turn toward cake (James Beard maintained that buckles
and grunts are one and the same). But just like their crunchier cousins, they can be made in a snap
by tossing fruit into a simple cake batter and topping it with streusel, not unlike a coffee cake. Here,
Chef Adam Hayes from Lonesome Valley’s Canyon Kitchen in Sapphire, North Carolina, takes the
classic a step further by folding goat cheese into the batter, adding a tangy note to foil the sweetness
of the berries and brushing it with a lemon-honey glaze. We’ll take that over lardy cake any
day. —Samantha Connors
101
BLUEBERRY AND GOAT CHEESE
BUCKLE WITH HONEY GLAZE
FROM EXECUTIVE CHEF ADAM HAYES OF
CANYON KITCHEN IN SAPPHIRE, NORTH CAROLINA
½ cup unsalted butter
¾ cup granulated sugar
1 egg
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
2 cups all-purpose flour
½ cup milk
½ cups fresh blueberries
¼ cup goat cheese
Crumb topping (recipe follows)
Glaze (recipe follows)
2. Using stand mixer with paddle attachment,
beat together butter and sugar until pale yellow
and fluffy.
3. Add egg to bowl with butter and sugar, and mix
until incorporated.
4. Sift baking powder, salt, and flour together in
medium bowl.
5. Add half of dry ingredients to butter and sugar,
and mix until combined.
6. Slowly add milk to butter mixture while mixing.
Once milk is incorporated, add remaining dry
ingredients, and mix until thoroughly combined.
7. Crumble goat cheese into blueberries, and fold
into buckle batter.
8. Spread batter into greased 8-inch square pan.
9. Sprinkle crumb topping over batter, and bake
until toothpick comes out clean, approximately
40 to 45 minutes.
10. Gently brush warm glaze over hot buckle. Let cool.
Crumb Topping
½ cup unsalted butter
1 cup light brown sugar
1 cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup oats
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1. Cut butter into small cubes and bring to room
temperature.
2. Combine all ingredients, and mix using a fork until
the mixture is crumbly. Do not overmix.
Glaze
¼ cup honey
2 teaspoons lemon juice
Pour ingredients into small pot over low heat.
Bring mixture to a boil, and remove from heat.
102
Find Your Inspiration in Paducah
Creativity comes in many forms—it’s the common
thread that connects people from around the globe
to Paducah. It’s why Paducah is recognized as
a UNESCO Creative City, and as home to
the National Quilt Museum, it’s on the bucket list
of fiber artists worldwide.
Much like our rivers, the vibrant artistic community,
beautiful natural landscape and rich heritage
converge to make Paducah an inviting place to visit.
Connect with your creativity. Or simply relax
and immerse yourself in Paducah’s creative energy.
1-800-PADUCAH
Plan your next getaway at Paducah.travel
Designers
LELA ROSE
ETRO
FABIANA FILIPPI
JOIE
VINCE
J BRAND
CLU
TORY BURCH
HAMMITT
MILLY
RANI ARABELLA
ALLUDE
REBECCA TAYLOR
HERNO
MIGNONE GAVIGAN
TAXIDERMY
303 KING ST | CHARLESTON, SC 29401
THEFINICKYFILLY.COM | 843.534.0203
[email protected]
EVENTS CALENDAR
J U N E + J U LY
Travel, Eat, Repeat
A Taste of Southern Culinary Events
2-5
ATLANTA FOOD
& WINE FESTIVAL
Atlanta, GA
Enjoy a weekend full of tasting
tents, special events, and
classes. Embark on the ultimate
food and spirits road trip
Thursday night at Destination
Delicious sponsored by TLP,
where guests wander through
chef creations, libations, and
iconic Southern destinations.
atlfoodandwinefestival.com
GEORGIA
BLUEBERRY FESTIVAL
Alma, GA
Bacon County is the heart
of Georgia’s blueberry
crop, so it’s a fitting site
for the annual Georgia
Blueberry Festival. Events
include pie-eating contests,
blueberry recipe cook-offs, a
blueberry pancake breakfast,
and a Miss Blueberry
Pageant. What’s better than
blueberries in Bacon in June?
georgiablueberryfestival.org
3-4
SAVOR
Washington, DC
A must-attend for American
craft beer aficionados,
SAVOR taps the beer and
food pairing expertise
of Brewers Association
Executive Chef Adam
Dulye for its menu, which
features 55 plates and more
than 100 beers from 76
diverse breweries. Set in the
Romanesque-style National
Building Museum.
savorcraftbeer.com
3-5
FARM TO FORK
Durham, NC
A weekend farm celebration
with education. Highlights
include performances
by Grammy-nominated
musicians and a five-course
dinner co-hosted by James
Beard Award-winning chef
Andrea Reusing and former
White House chef Sam Kass.
farmtoforknc.com
4
NOT TO BE MISSED
KENTUCKY BOURBON AFFAIR
14-19
LOUISVILLE, KY
The only bourbon event hosted by the
bourbon distilleries themselves, which makes for a unique and
specialized affair that appeals to amateurs and connoisseurs
alike. Celebrating its third year, the Kentucky Bourbon Affair
has joined with Whiskey Live to offer samples of the best
international whiskies. The schedule of events includes
tastings, serious workshops, and fun exhibitions like Anatomy
Academy: Men, Women, and Bourbon, which explore palates
and preferences by gender. kybourbonaffair.com
104
TASTE OF THREE CITIES
Baltimore, MD
The Taste of Three Cities
Festival highlights the talents
of the region’s street chefs
and showcases the food truck
revolution’s effect on urban
renewal and sustainability. The
event is held in Patterson Park
and features fare from Jimmy’s
Famous Seafood, Red Hook
Lobster, Baron Von Schwein,
GrrChe, Midnite Confection’s
Cupcakery, and more.
tasteof3cities.com
4-5
VINTAGE VIRGINIA
Centreville, VA
Now in its 35th year, Vintage
Virginia annually offers
a chance to sample from
some of Virginia’s favorite
vineyards, including
Rosemont, Rockbridge, and
Jefferson. Food provided by
local restaurants and DC
food trucks. Plus, Cooking
Kitchen offers handson demonstrations and
pairing recommendations.
vintagevirginia.com
SAVOR
8
CARNEVALE DI
CHARLESTON
Charleston, SC
Embrace the colorful spirit
of Carnevale and salute 40
years of Sploleto at one of the
best festive culinary parties. A
must-do for lovers of vibrant
music, global flavors, and social
merriment. thelocalpalate.com/
events/carnevale-di-charleston
9-12
SOUTHERN
GROWN
Sea Island, GA / St. Simons
Island, GA
Grammy-award winning
artists Jason Isbell and
Tedeschi Trucks Band join
New Orleans ensemble
Dumpstaphunk for a weekend
of culinary showcasing by
celebrated chefs Kenny
Gilbert, Tom Gray, and more.
southerngrown.com
invited to join professionals
from the industry in this
educational and networking
event. Highlights include
workshops from Drink
Innovations Labs and
exhibitions on everything from
using an espresso machine
to understanding matcha.
Campfire Café sessions
provide fast tips for industry
professionals. S’mores optional.
coffeefest.com
10-11
BLUE RIDGE
BBQ &
MUSIC FESTIVAL
Tryon, NC
If delicious pulled pork
and smoked brisket aren’t
enough to whet your appetite,
entertainment and activities
abound at one of the most
popular barbecue events in
the country. The festival
features headlining musicians,
offers crafts and artwork from
local vendors, and plays host
to the North Carolina State
Barbecue Championship.
blueridgebbqfestival.com
10-12
COFFEE FEST
Dallas, TX
Coffee and tea enthusiasts are
BLUE RIDGE BBQ &
MUSIC FESTIVAL
11
BEER CHEESE FESTIVAL
Winchester, KY
Now in its eighth year, the
Beer Cheese Festival invites
visitors to sample and vote
on their favorite version of
this spreadable Kentucky
product that, of course, pairs
well with good ale. The
event also features arts and
crafts from selected local
vendors and boasts more than
12,000 attendees each year.
beercheesefestival.com
PHOTOS LEFT TO RIGHT: COURTESY OF KENTUCKY DISTILLERS' ASSOCIATION;
BREWERS ASSOCIATION; BLUE RIDGE BBQ FESTIVAL
3-4
J UNE
11
UNTAPPED
Fort Worth, TX
Stake your spot at Panther
Island Pavilion to sample
more than 300 beers from
70 Texas breweries and catch
performances by David Ramirez,
Rayland Baxter, and Grupo
Fantasmo among others. Pair
Lone Star State brews with food
from local eateries.
untapped-festival.com
18
PHOTOS TOP TO BOTTOM: COURTESY OF KENTUCKY DISTILLERS' ASSOCIATION; TASTE OF MUSIC CITY
LAVENDER FESTIVAL
Oak Ridge, TN
The annual Lavender Festival
set in historic Jackson Square
invites visitors to celebrate
herbs, healthful food, and
art. Live music provides the
backdrop for the event where
local farmers and artisans offer
everything from handpicked
herbs (including lavender, of
course) to homemade jams,
handcrafted furniture, and
original paintings.
jacksonsquarelavenderfestival.org
18
TASTE OF MUSIC CITY
Nashville, TN
Dig into Nashville at its biggest
food and drink festival, Taste
of Music City, held in Public
Square Park. The event features
the culinary talents of local
chefs and the musical stylings
of vocalist Kayla Woodson,
Ben Sturgell, and DJ KO. An
all-inclusive ticket provides
unlimited food and beverage
tastings. tasteofmusiccity.com
KENTUCKY
BOURBON AFFAIR
love our veggies. Live music,
demonstrations, workshops,
and food offerings make for a
genuinely enjoyable celebration
of healthy eating. veggiefest.org
JU LY
5-10
FLEUR DELICIOUS
WEEKEND
Eureka Springs, AR
Nestled in the beautiful Ozark
Mountains, Eureka Springs
hosts a French-themed street
fair that is a feast for all senses.
Indulge your appetite with local
restaurant and bar offerings,
and satisfy your musical cravings
with a variety of performances.
fleurdeliciousweekend.com
TASTE OF
MUSIC CITY
18
RIDGE PEACH FESTIVAL
Trenton, SC
This annual gathering for
lovers of the fuzzy-skinned
Prunus persica offers a country
store stocked with jams, jellies,
and preserves, live music, and
hands-on demonstrations.
ridgepeachfestival.com
25
RICHMOND
VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL
Richmond, VA
Held in the Azalea Garden at
Bryan Park, the festival brings
together vegans, vegetarians,
and those of us who just
happening set atop Snowshoe
Mountain includes live music,
local art and craft vendors, and
village games. snowshoemtn.com
17
ATTACK OF THE KILLER
TOMATO FESTIVAL
Atlanta, GA
This year’s event is held at Park
Tavern in Midtown Atlanta.
Sharing its name with an ’80s
cult classic, the Attack of the
Killer Tomato Festival celebrates
its namesake vegetable-fruit
by welcoming farmers, chefs,
and mixologists to craft
creative concoctions for charity.
killertomatofest.com
22-24
LOUISVILLE
BLUES,
BREWS & BBQ FESTIVAL
Louisville, KY
Get fired up with smoked
pit barbecue at the Louisville
Blues, Brews & BBQ Festival
held in Water Tower Park. On
tap are dozens of craft beers
from microbreweries across
the state, and blues that will
have you rocking all night.
louisvillebluesandbbqfestival.com
28-30
9
FIRE ON THE MOUNTAIN
CHILI COOK-OFF
Snowshoe Mountain, WV
Prime your tongue for the 25th
annual Fire on the Mountain
Chili Cook-Off featuring
competitions for red chili, green
chili, and salsa. The two-day
THE 37 TH
ANNUAL
L’ETE DU VIN: GENERATIONS
OF GREATNESS
Nashville, TN
Wine enthusiasts bid on rare
vintages and everyday favorites
at this annual auction. The
weekend includes dinners,
tastings, and a black-tie event.
Funds are raised in support
of the fight against cancer
benefiting the American Cancer
Society and local cancer-related
nonprofit organizations.
nashvillewineauction.com
PROMOTION
FESTIVAL FOCUS
CARNEVALE DI CHARLESTON
June 8, 2016
Charleston, South Carolina
Each spring, Charleston, the embodiment of
Southern hospitality, gentility, and elegance,
invites visitors to discover its artistry and
beauty anew during its annual Spoleto Festival
USA, where renowned and emerging artists
perform throughout the city at its churches,
theaters, and outdoor venues.
The Local Palate sends up a bountiful
salute this June to Spoleto Festival’s 40th year at
Carnevale di Charleston, on Wednesday, June
8th. The evening event showcases the culinary
art of the most celebrated Carnevale dishes
created by acclaimed Southern chefs.
SPOLETO
SPOLETO
with sausage, smoked meats, and farofa and
one of Brazil’s most popular dishes, presented
by Lamas. Vedrinski will create a distinctive
handmade fresh pasta, sfoglia with porcini
mushrooms and goat’s milk ricotta.
An unparalleled experience awaits culinary
travelers at thelocalpalate.com/events/carnevaledi-charleston.
August 19-20, 2016
Asheville, North Carolina
Asheville visitors come to the city nestled in
the shadow of the Blue Ridge Mountains to
enjoy its scenic vistas, bluegrass street performances, and vibrant art scene. If all that and its
Set on the grand grounds of a historic innovative culinary offerings haven’t lured you
Charleston home, the evening melds savory there, the Asheville Wine & Food Festival is the
and sweet tastings, performances, music, and final straw.
In its eighth year, the festival kicked off the
mingling. This year features the talents of Chef
Jacques Larson of Wild Olive and the Obsti- festivities in May with Cocktail Week, featurnate Daughter (Charleston, South Carolina), ing specially curated pairing dinners leading up
to a weeklong celebration of spirits
along with chefs Anthony
and mixology.
Lamas of Seviche (Louisville,
Festivalgoers revel in the sumKentucky), Cheetie Kumar
of Garland (Raleigh, North
mer main events: Sweet, an eveCarolina), Kelly Chu of Cirning of desserts, wines, and spirits
and the Grand Tasting, where
sea Ice Cream (Charleston,
more than 100 farm-to-table
South Carolina), Nico Romo
eateries, artisan food producers,
of Fish (Charleston, South
pastry chefs, chocolatiers, craft
Carolina), Ken Vedrinski of
brewers, distilleries, and winemakTrattoria Lucca and Coda del
Pesce (Charleston, South Carers serve up innovative tastings.
Attendees can become culinary
olina), and Michael Toscano
ASHEVILLE W&F
explorers using the festival app and
of Le Farfalle (Charleston,
program to chart their own advenSouth Carolina).
Among the inventive dishes offered will be a ture through each level of this savory wilderness.
ashevillewineandfood.com
magnificent feijoada, a flavorful black bean stew
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: MAC KILDUFF; COURTESY OF ASHVILLE WINE & FOOD
ASHEVILLE WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL
presents
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 8, 2016
7:00 - 10:00 PM
Join The Local Palate in a delicious salute to Spoleto’s 40th season at the Carnevale di
Charleston. Carnevale di Charleston honors Spoleto’s four decades of the culinary arts with
savory and sweet tastings of the most celebrated Carnevale dishes, brought to you by some of
the South’s top chefs. Set on the grand grounds of a historic Charleston home, the evening will
beautifully blend food, performance, music, and mingling.
FEATURING FLAVORS FROM
Jacques Larson
Wild Olive & The
Obstinate Daughter
Charleston, SC
Ken Vedrinski
Trattoria Lucca &
Coda del Pesce
Charleston, SC
Kelly Chu
Cirsea Ice Cream
Charleston, SC
Anthony Lamas
Seviche
Louisville, KY
Nico Romo
Fish
Charleston, SC
Cheetie Kumar
Garland
Raleigh, NC
Michael Toscano
Le Farfalle
Charleston, SC
To purchase tickets visit thelocalpalate.com/events
$SRUWLRQRIWKHWLFNHWSURFHHGVEHQHƓW6SROHWR)HVWLYDO86$
recipes
peppers. We’re always looking for the perfect balance
between fat and acid. This harissa offers a bright, savory
counterpoint to the sweet hoisin sauce and rich bacon.
2 red bell peppers*
1 lime, juiced
½ tablespoon ground coriander
½ tablespoon ground cumin
2 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt to taste
1. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
2. On a baking sheet lined with parchment paper,
roast the peppers about 25 minutes, or until blistered
and blackened, rotating the baking sheet halfway
through. Remove peppers from oven, place in a bowl,
and cover with plastic wrap until cool.
3. Once peppers have cooled, remove skin from
peppers. Once peeled, remove the stem, seeds,
and gills of the peppers.
4. Add peppers, lime juice, spices, and garlic to
food processor or blender and blend until smooth.
Once mixture is uniform, add olive oil and process
again. Add salt to taste.
*For a spicier sauce, substitute a chile pepper of
your preference.
Yield: approximately 2 cups
(FROM SEASON'S EATINGS, PAGE 55)
CUCUMBER AND MELON SALAD
PHOTO BY FORREST CLONTS
4 cucumbers, washed and sliced into ¼-inch rounds
Juice of ½ lemon
1 tablespoon olive oil
Fresh basil, torn
Salt and pepper
1 large Charentais melon (or cantaloupe), sliced into
half-moons
(FROM KEY INGREDIENT, PAGE 49)
SUMMER BOURBON CUCUMBER COOLER
From Motor Supply’s head barman, Josh Streetman
2 ounces Basil Hayden’s Bourbon
2 ounces St. Germain Liqueur
3 ounces Pernod cucumber broth, recipe page 50
1 ounce Pernod
2 ounces freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 ounces honey
108
1. Put all ingredients in a shaker with a few ice
cubes and shake well. Fill rocks glass with ice and pour
mix over top. Garnish with a thinly cut cucumber ribbon.
1. Place cucumbers in medium bowl and squeeze
lemon juice over top along add a tablespoon of olive
oil. Add melons and toss all ingredients until coated.
Yield: 4 servings
Yield: 1 serving
(FROM REDUX, PAGE 52)
Neon Pig Harissa
Chef’s note: Typically, harissa is a spicy condiment,
but we like to make a milder version with red bell
(FROM HOOKED ON FISHER'S, PAGE 78)
Pappardelle Pasta
1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for
rolling out dough
½ teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon kosher salt
recipes
15 egg yolks
1. Run stand mixer fitted with hook attachment
on low speed, and add flour, oil, and salt.
Slowly add yolks, 1 or 2 at a time.
2. When dough comes together and starts to pull
from the sides of mixer, turn mixer off and form
dough ball. Wrap dough well in plastic and let rest for
1 hour.
3. After resting, divide dough into 4 equal parts.
On lightly floured surface, roll dough to ¼-inch thick.
Continue process with pasta machine, beginning at
highest thickness and rolling until 3 or 4 on pasta
machine thickness dial. Cut to 1-inch width and keep
length of pasta sheet.
4. Bring salted water to boil in large pot. Prepare an
ice bath.
5. Blanch noodles until tender (1 to 2 minutes) then
plunge in ice bath immediately and drain.
Yield: 4 servings
Cumin Crackers
2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling surface
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for sprinkling
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon paprika
1
/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled
2
/3 cup whole milk
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees and lightly grease 2
cookie sheets.
2. In medium bowl, whisk together all dry ingredients
until combined.
3. With pastry cutter or two forks, cut butter into dry
ingredients until mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir
in milk, just to combine.
4. Knead cracker dough until tacky and smooth.
Divide into 2 round balls and let rest 10 minutes.
5. On lightly floured surface, roll
each dough ball to about 1/8-inch
thickness. Place on greased sheet
pan, prick all over with fork, lightly
sprinkle salt, and bake for about 10
minutes—rotating after 5 minutes—
until evenly golden brown. Cool and
break into rustic triangles.
THE ONLY
SLAVE TOURS IN
CHARLESTON, SC
Take a remarable jorney back in time
of the “Gullah” people and glimpse
into a hidden history.
Godfrey Jefferson K Hill, a historian,
licensed tour guide, and a descendant
of the Thomas Jefferson Plantation.
He is the only Gullah/ Geechee
historian to teach the Gullah practices.
Yield: 8 servings
ALABAMA WEST INDIES SALAD
1 medium sweet onion, diced fine
1 pound fresh lump crabmeat
(picked for shells)
Salt and pepper
6 tablespoons soybean oil
6 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
6 tablespoons ice water
5 mint leaves, chopped
Zest of 1 lemon
PHOTO BY TODD DOUGLAS
1. Mix onion, crab, salt, and pepper
in mixing bowl.
2. Add oil, vinegar, and ice water.
Marinate for 2 to 10 hours.
3. Before serving, toss with lemon
zest and mint. Serve over mixed
greens with citrus segments as a
lunch salad or with crackers for an
appetizer.
Yield: 2 servings
Nobody can tell our stories better than
we can...
Gullah Gullah Tours • Holy Bible
Tours • Slave Tours
BOOK YOUR TOUR NOW!
Sunday-Saturday Tours start at 9am
1.844.4GULLAH (448.5524)
HOLYCITYHOLYBIBLE.COM
recipes
Mix well. Combine with extra-virgin olive oil, black
pepper, red pepper flakes, and cumin. Salt to taste.
2. To prepare fish, clean, scale, gut, and wash
snapper (or have fishmonger do this for you). Pat dry.
Stuff stomach cavity with thyme and lemon.
3. Heat grill and rub snapper all over with salt and
pepper. Grill 8 to 10 minutes on each side.
4. Toss potatoes with olive oil, salt and pepper and
add to grill until crispy and golden brown.
5. In mixing bowl, toss red potatoes, ¼ of prepared
Salsa Verde, and arugula. Cover snapper with
remaining Salsa Verde, top with potatoes and
arugula, and serve.
Yield: 2 servings
(FROM THE SECRET IS THE SALSA, PAGE 68)
Charred Tomato and Chipotle Salsa
PHOTO BY TODD DOUGLAS
3 large tomatoes
1 small white onion
1 jalapeño pepper
2 chipotle peppers in adobo sauce
½ cup of chicken stock infused with bay
and avocado leaves (if available), strained
1 tablespoon canola oil
Dash of salt
GRILLED WHOLE GULF
SNAPPER WITH
SALSA VERDE
GRILLED WHOLE GULF SNAPPER
WITH SALSA VERDE
Chef’s note: Because we are located in a marina, we
offer a “hook-and-cook” program. After fishing, people
can bring their catch right into the restaurant and we
cook it up. A guy came in with snapper, wanting to
serve it family-style. We came up with this.
in the world; it’s super garlicky and herbaceous.
I would like to put it on everything, but it goes especially
well with this snapper.
1 3-pound snapper (could substitute redfish)
1 bunch thyme
2 whole lemons, sliced
Olive oil as needed
½ pound red creamer potatoes cut in wedges
(4 to 6 wedges per potato)
Heaping handful arugula
5 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
2 tablespoons capers, drained and finely chopped
1 cup chopped parsley
½ cup chopped basil
¼ cup chopped mint
2 tablespoons minced garlic
3 tablespoons finely diced shallots
2 cups extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Salt to taste
Salsa Verde
Chef’s note: Salsa verde is probably my favorite sauce
1. Make Salsa Verde by combining chopped
anchovies, capers, herbs, garlic, and shallot.
110
1. In an ungreased heavy skillet over medium-high
heat, char tomatoes, garlic, onion, and pepper until
nicely browned. Remove and discard some of the
large charred pieces of skin.
2. Transfer charred vegetable mixture to blender along
with chicken stock and blend until smooth.
3. Transfer sauce from blender to skillet. Add canola
oil and salt. Simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from
heat and set aside.
Yield: approximately 2 cups
Pico de Gallo
5 ripe Roma tomatoes
½ large white onion, roughly chopped
1 bunch cilantro, roughly chopped
3 jalapeño peppers, seeded and roughly chopped
2 limes, juiced
Salt to taste
Combine tomatoes, onion, cilantro, and jalapeño
peppers. Add salt and lime juice.
HORCHATA
Chef’s note: Horchata is a refreshing rice-based
drink infused with vanilla and cinnamon, and served
over ice. It’s a staple throughout Mexico and a regular
menu item at Las Tortugas. For a grown-up version,
Jonathan Magallanes suggests spiking it with bourbon,
much like the classic milk punch still served at boozy
brunches throughout the South.
12 cups water
2 cups uncooked long-grain white rice
1¼ cups 2-percent milk
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 small 4-inch piece of whole-bark
Mexican cinnamon*
1¼ cup granulated sugar
1. Combine water and rice in a Vitamix or
similar blender. Blend for 30 to 45 seconds.
Chill and let soak overnight in the refrigerator.
2. Strain rice water into a large jug or pitcher.
Reserve ground rice.
3. Toast cinnamon in a dry skillet until fragrant. There
might be a few charred or dark spots, but that's okay.
4. Grind cinnamon using a mortar and pestle until
finely ground, or place in a food processor or spice
grinder and grind into a fine powder.
5. Add milk, sugar, vanilla, and cinnamon to rice milk.
Stir vigorously and chill.
6. Return ground rice to rice milk mixture, and let
settle completely. Chill again for at least 1 hour.
7. Pour gently into glasses, making sure to pour only
liquid and not settled rice.
Yield: 12 to 16 servings
*This large whole-bark cinnamon can be found
in Latin markets.
CASHEW AND COCONUT FLAN
PHOTO BY BRANDON DILL
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
6 5-inch aluminum pie tins
18 ounces sweetened condensed milk (La Lechera)
½ cup shredded sweetened coconut
7 large eggs
2¼ cup whole milk
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
½ cup unsweetened shredded coconut
½ cup toasted, crushed cashews
2. In a small saucepan over medium-high heat,
melt sugar until it caramelizes. Evenly distribute
sugar syrup between pie tins.
3. Blend condensed milk, sweetened coconut,
eggs, and vanilla in a blender and pour into pie tins.
4. Set pie tins on a rimmed baking sheet. Place in oven,
and carefully pour hot water into baking sheet to come
halfway up the sides of the
pie tins, about 1½ inches
deep. Bake approximately 30
minutes or until set.
5. Remove from oven, and
allow to cool, and then place
in refrigerator to chill.
6. Run a knife around edge of
pie tin and turn over to release
flan.
7. Garnish with
unsweetened coconut and
cashews.
Yield: 6 flans
(FROM CHEF VS. COOK,
PAGE 86)
AVOCADO TOAST
From Sheri Castle
Avocado Toast
4 thick slices ciabatta or
other rustic white bread
6 tablespoons butter, divided
2 avocados
Salad (recipe follows)
4 large eggs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sesame seeds
1 teaspoon poppy seeds
1 tablespoon sunflower seeds
1. Spread 2 tablespoons of butter on both sides of
bread. Cook in a large skillet until toasted on both sides.
2. Place a slice of toast on 4 serving plates. Keep
skillet handy for the eggs.
3. Cut avocados in half, discard pits, and use a large
spoon to scoop out flesh. Place half an avocado on
each piece of toast and mash gently with a fork.
Divide the salad mixture among the plates.
4. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in the large skillet over
medium heat. Crack eggs into skillet, sprinkle with salt
and pepper, and cook until whites are set but yolks are
still soft. Place an egg on each serving dish.
5. Quickly melt remaining 3 tablespoons of butter
in the skillet and cook, gently swirling the pan, until
it browns, and then drizzle over avocado toasts and
salad. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and the seeds.
Serve immediately.
Salad
1 small bunch radishes with greens attached*
1 cup (4 ounces) sugar snap peas
2 tablespoons thinly sliced basil leaves
Pickled Red Onions (recipe follows)
1. Remove greens from radishes. Discard stems,
and place leaves in a large bowl.
2. Thinly slice radishes and add them to bowl with leaves.
3. Cut peas in half on the diagonal and add to bowl.
Add basil.
4. Drain red onions, add to bowl, and toss to coat.
Season with salt and pepper.
*If radishes with tasty greens are not available, replace
the greens with a large handful of baby spinach,
arugula, or watercress.
Pickled Red Onions
½ medium red onion, cut into very thin wedges
¼ cup rice wine vinegar
2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon mixed pickling spice (optional)
1. Place onions in a small bowl.
2. Bring the vinegar, water, sugar, salt, and pickling
spice (if using) to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring to
dissolve sugar and salt.
3. Pour over onions, cover, and refrigerate until chilled.
Yield: 4 servings
111
recipes
ROASTED ASPARAGUS, GREEN GODDESS
DRESSING, PICKLED RHUBARB
From Chef William Dissen
Chef’s note: We add a green goddess dressing
made with lots of fresh herbs and white anchovies
for an herbal blast to accompany the earthy, roasted
flavors of the asparagus. I like to balance the dish
with some tang so we use pickled rhubarb to
add some zing, herb croutons, and thinly shaved
Tennessee country ham.
20 stalks asparagus, stems trimmed
3 tablespoons blended oil*
Kosher salt and ground black pepper to taste
Green Goddess Dressing (recipe follows)
Herb Croutons (recipe follows)
Local Farm Egg (recipe follows)
Pickled Rhubarb (recipe follows)
1. Using a blender, combine all ingredients except
mayonnaise. Puree until smooth.
2. Place mayonnaise in a large mixing bowl,
and stir in herb/anchovy purée.
3. Season with salt and pepper to taste and reserve.
Herb Croutons
1 cup diced ciabatta, crust removed
1 cup butter
2 tablespoons chopped herbs, (equal parts parsley,
thyme, basil)
1. Heat butter in a small sauté pan over medium-high
heat and add ciabatta. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes until
the croutons begin to turn golden brown.
2. Remove croutons from pan with a slotted spoon,
and place onto a paper towel to drain.
3. Season to taste with salt and pepper and
chopped herbs. Reserve.
ROASTED ASPARAGUS WITH RHUBARB
RELISH AND CREAMY HERB DRESSING
From Sheri Castle
Rhubarb Relish
¼ cup rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon coriander or yellow mustard seed
2 slender rhubarb stalks (about 2 ounces), small dice
1 small shallot, cut crosswise into thin rings
1. Stir together vinegar, sugar, salt, and coriander
seed in a medium glass bowl.
2. Microwave until bubbling, about 1 minute.
(Alternatively, heat in a small saucepan.)
3. Stir to dissolve sugar and salt. Stir in rhubarb and
shallot. Set aside to cool, stirring occasionally. Cover
and refrigerate until needed.
*Dissen uses a blend of olive and vegetable oils.
For Garnish:
12 slices prosciutto (preferably Allan
Benton’s 24-month)
1 cup fennel fronds
¼ cup garlic chive flowers
1. Preheat grill (we use a hardwood grill) to high heat.
2. Oil asparagus and season with the salt and pepper.
3. Grill asparagus until lightly charred and tender,
approximately 4 to 5 minutes.
4. Remove from the grill and reserve.
5. To assemble, place a “smear” of Green Goddess
Dressing across each plate.
6. Lay 5 spears of asparagus across and over
Green Goddess Dressing.
7. Sprinkle croutons over asparagus, and place a
poached egg in center of asparagus.
8. In 3 points around asparagus, place 2 pieces of
pickled rhubarb, 1 slice of prosciutto, and 1 fennel
frond. Sprinkle garlic chive flowers over each dish,
and a light drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
Serve immediately.
Green Goddess Dressing
3 cloves garlic, roasted
2 tablespoons blended oil
6 white anchovies, in oil
1½ tablespoons chopped basil
1½ tablespoons chopped chives
1½ tablespoons chopped parsley
1½ teaspoons white vinegar
1¾ cups mayonnaise, preferably Duke’s
112
Local Farm Eggs
4 local farm eggs
1. Preheat an immersion circulator in a water
bath to 145.4 degrees (63 degrees celsius).
2. Place eggs directly into water bath and cook
for 50 minutes.
3. Remove from water bath, crack shell, and
strain through a sieve or julep bar spoon.
4. Season with salt and pepper. Reserve.
Creamy Herb Dressing
1 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon anchovy paste or Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon whole grain Dijon mustard
1½ tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley
1½ tablespoons minced chives
1½ tablespoons minced basil
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper to taste
Pickled Rhubarb
½ pound rhubarb stalks (approximately 2-3 stalks)
½ cup apple cider vinegar
½ cup water
½ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
¼ teaspoon black peppercorns
¼ teaspoon cloves
1 bay leaf
1 star anise
1. Whisk together mayonnaise, oil, lemon juice,
anchovy paste, and mustard in a small bowl.
2. Fold in the parsley, chives, and basil. Season
1. Trim rhubarb and place in a container (or in
Mason jars, if canning) with mustard seeds, cloves,
peppercorns, star anise, and bay leaf.
2. In a saucepan, combine cider vinegar, water, sugar,
and salt. Bring to a boil.
3. Pour hot brine over rhubarb and allow to cool
to room temperature. Once cool, cover and keep
under refrigeration for 1 month. If canning, process
immediately.
1. Heat oil in a large cast-iron skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add prosciutto and cook until rendered
and crisp, about 3 minutes.
2. Add bread cubes and toss to coat. Cook, stirring
occasionally, until golden and crunchy, about 10
minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Pour onto a plate, and set aside until needed.
Keep skillet handy.
Yield: 4 servings
Croutons
8 slices prosciutto, preferably Benton’s
1½ cups (½-inch) cubed country-style white bread
with crust removed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Asparagus
1 small bunch asparagus (about 16 stalks)
recipes
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper to taste
2. Place asparagus in skillet. Drizzle with oil,
and roll to coat. Spread into a single layer and
sprinkle with salt and pepper.
3. Place in oven and toast until stems are tender
and browned in spots, and tips are sizzling,
approximately 8 to 10 minutes, depending on
size of stalks. Meanwhile, cook eggs.
Eggs
4 large eggs
1. Place eggs in medium saucepan and cover with
water to a depth of 2 inches.
2. Bring to a boil over high heat then remove pan
from heat, cover, and let stand 5 minutes. Meanwhile,
assemble salads.
1. To assemble, divide creamy dressing among
4 serving plates. Top with warm asparagus spears,
and then croutons. Drain rhubarb relish and
spoon it around edges of the salad.
2. Drain eggs and rinse under cold running water
only until cool enough to handle. Do not let eggs
get cold. Quickly peel warm eggs and place one
atop each salad. Split each egg with a fork to reveal
the warm interior, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and
serve immediately.
Yield: 4 servings
HEIRLOOM TOMATO PANZANELLA
4 cups heirloom tomatoes (mix of cherry
and slicer varieties)
¾ cup shallots, sliced into ¼-inch rings
and charred
¼ tablespoon chopped basil
1 cup baby arugula
1 cup diced mozzarella
Cornbread Croutons (recipe follows)
Aged Sherry Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
12 flowering basil tops
Green Pea Pesto (recipe follows)
1. Slice heirloom tomatoes into different
shapes and sizes.
2. In a large bowl, gently toss together the heirloom
tomatoes, charred shallots, basil, arugula, mozzarella,
and cornbread croutons.
3. Season to taste with vinaigrette, salt, and pepper.
4. Smear Green Pea Pesto onto each plate. Spoon
panzanella salad across pesto. Garnish with flowering
basil tops and a drizzle of the extra-virgin olive oil.
Serve immediately.
Cornbread
½ cup butter, melted
1½ cups yellow cornmeal
1½ cups flour
¼ cup sugar
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 teaspoons salt
3 large eggs
2½ cups buttermilk
2. Brush pan with 2 tablespoons butter.
3. In a medium bowl whisk together cornmeal,
flour, baking soda, sugar, and salt.
4. In another large bowl, whisk together eggs
and buttermilk. Whisk in remaining butter.
5. Stir cornmeal mixture into buttermilk mixture
until just incorporated. Do not overmix.
6. Pour batter into prepared pan and bake until
golden brown, about 15 minutes. Test doneness
with a toothpick.
7. Allow to cool completely, and cut into large dice.
Place onto a sheet tray and allow to sit out overnight
to dry.
8. Heat blended oil in a cast-iron pan over mediumhigh heat and toast cornbread croutons in oil until
golden on top and bottom. Season with salt and
pepper. Reserve.
Green Pea Pesto
1 cup green peas, blanched to tender
1 cup packed basil leaves, chopped
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon lemon juice
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
1. Place green peas, basil, garlic, Parmesan,
olive oil, and lemon juice into a food processor.
2. Pulse until almost smooth, until all of the
ingredients are fully incorporated.
3. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and adjust
seasoning as necessary. Reserve.
Aged Sherry Vinaigrette
½ cup blended olive oil
3 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 tablespoons minced shallots
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon honey
1. In a blender, purée all ingredients except oil.
2. While blender is running, slowly add oil to
emulsify vinaigrette.
3. Season to taste with the salt and pepper. Reserve.
Yield: 4 servings
TENNESSEE HAM-WRAPPED PEACHES
Tennessee Ham-Wrapped Peaches
5 ripe peaches, quartered with pits removed
20 slices Tennessee country ham (preferably
Allan Benton’s), thinly sliced
2 tablespoons blended oil
Stracciatella (recipe follows)
For garnish:
5 tablespoons maple syrup (preferably from
Bourbon Barrel Foods)
Red ribbon sorrel, as needed
Pea shoots as needed
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Toasted Hazelnuts (recipe follows)
1. Wrap each peach quarter with one slice of country
ham and reserve on a parchment lined plate.
2. Preheat a cast iron pan over medium heat with
blended oil.
3. Place slices into the pan. Sprinkle with black pepper
and cook until ham is golden and crispy on one side,
approximately 4 to 5 minutes.
4. Turn peaches, crispy side up, and place onto a
paper towel lined plate. Reserve.
5. To assemble, place a large spoonful of stracciatella
across the plate. Arrange roasted ham-wrapped
peaches over stracciatella.
6. Place 1 teaspoon of the maple syrup directly over
each peach.
Garnish with pea shoots, red ribbon sorrel, and extra
virgin olive oil. Sprinkle hazelnuts around each peach
and serve immediately.
Stracciatella
1 gallon water
1 cup kosher salt
2 cups mozzarella curd, large dice
1 cup heavy cream
113
recipes
1. Place water and salt into a medium pot and
bring to a rapid boil.
2. Place diced mozzarella curd into pot. Using a
long metal slotted spoon, stir curd until it just
starts to melt on the sides.
3. Quickly remove curd from the pot and transfer
to a large bowl, draining away as much water as
possible. Allow to cool for 3 to 4 minutes.
4. Working with your hands, shred mozzarella curd
into fine threads.
5. Stir in heavy cream and black pepper. Stracciatella
should have the consistency of ricotta cheese. Taste,
and adjust seasoning as needed. Reserve.
1. In a small pot bring sugar and water to a simmer
over high heat, stirring to dissolve, until sugar mixture
is amber in color, about 4 to 5 minutes.
2. Remove pan from heat, and stir in smoked paprika,
sea salt, and hazelnuts. Stir to evenly coat.
3. Place candied hazelnuts onto a sheet tray lined
with a nonstick mat, and quickly separate using a
spatula or a fork. Allow to cool.
4. Once cool, place hazelnuts into a food processor
and pulse 3 to 4 times to lightly crumble hazelnuts
into chunks. Reserve.
Yield: 4 servings
PEACHES IN PROSCIUTTO OVER LEMONY
RICOTTA AND HERB SALAD
From Sheri Castle
Peaches and Prosciutto
2 ripe peaches
8 prosciutto slices
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon Grade B pure maple syrup
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Lemony Ricotta (recipe follows)
Candied Maple Hazelnuts (recipe follows)
1. Quarter and pit peaches. Fold a slice of prosciutto
in half lengthwise and wrap around a peach wedge.
Repeat with remaining prosciutto and peach wedges.
2. Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add wrapped peaches and cook until
prosciutto is browned and a little crisp on all sides,
turning with tongs as needed, 1 to 2 minutes per side.
114
PHOTO BY JOHNNY AUTRY
Toasted Hazelnuts
1 cup hazelnuts, blanched
¾ cup sugar
3 tablespoons water
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon sea salt
Remove pan from heat. Drizzle with maple syrup and
sprinkle with pepper.
3. To assemble, divide ricotta mixture among 4 serving
plates. Top with salad and warm peach wedges.
Sprinkle with candied hazelnuts, and serve at once.
small supreme sections and drop them into
a large bowl.
2. Squeeze juice from the membranes into bowl. Add
arugula and mint, drizzle with oil, and toss to coat.
Season with salt and pepper.
Lemony Ricotta
1 cup fresh ricotta
2 tablespoons cream
Finely grated zest of 1 Meyer lemon
(save lemon for salad)
Candied Maple Hazelnuts
1 tablespoon Grade B maple syrup
1 tablespoon sugar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon smoked paprika
½ cup (2 ounces) chopped hazelnuts
1 tablespoon butter
Stir together all of the ingredients in a small bowl.
Set aside until needed.
Herb Salad
2 Meyer lemons
5 ounces baby arugula
½ cup lightly packed mint leaves
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Cut peel and pith from Meyer lemons, including
the one reserved from ricotta mixture. Cut flesh into
1. Stir together maple syrup, sugar, salt, and paprika in
a small bowl.
2. Cook hazelnuts and butter in a small skillet over
medium-high heat until lightly toasted and fragrant,
1-2 minutes.
3. Add maple syrup mixture to pan and stir vigorously
for 15 seconds or until mixture bubbles, thickens, and
coats nuts. Pour onto a plate and let cool.
Yield: 4 servings
recipes
BEVERAGES
Horchata 110
Italian Summer 25
Prickly Pear Margarita 72
Summer Bourbon Cucumber Cooler 108
The Mayor’s Lament 25
APPETIZERS
Alabama Shrimp and Grouper Ceviche 83
Crispy St. Germain Cucumber and Smoked Salmon “Tea
Sandwiches” 50
King Crab and Gulf Shrimp Cocktail 72
Oysters Earle 83
Sprouted Mung Bean Ciabatta 57
SALADS AND SIDES
Alabama West Indies Salad 109
Avocado Tartine 88
Avocado Toast 111
Cucumber and Melon Salad with Fennel Sorbet 108
Heirloom Tomato and Cornbread Panzanella 93
Heirloom Tomato Panzanella 113
Shrimp, Okra, and Cherry Tomato Salad 45
Peaches in Prosciutto over Lemony Ricotta and Herb Salad 114
Roasted Asparagus, Green Goddess Dressing,
Pickled Rhubarb 111
Roasted Asparagus with Rhubarb Relish and
Creamy Herb Dressing 112
Tennessee Ham Wrapped Peaches 113
TLP’s Tomato Pie 99
CONTRIBUTORS INDEX
CULINARY CLASS 98
Le Creuset: site of photo shoot, lecreuset.com
ENTREES
Benton’s Bacon BLT 52
BLT for Betty Moody 53
Carne De Puerco Con Calabaza (Pork Tenderloin Soup with
Summer Corn and Squash) 72
Cedar Key Clams Pancetta Pasta 83
Chicken Tinga Tostadas with Salsa and Crema 73
Coriander and Fennel-Dusted Tuna 50
Ember-Cooked Trout Stuffed with Sumac and Thyme 56
Chile-Rubbed Strip Steak with Butterbean and Boiled Peanut
Succotash, Grilled Avocado, and Cucumber Relish 51
Grilled Whole Gulf Snapper with Salsa Verde 110
Smoked Pork Shoulder with Chile Sauce and Charred Corn 56
PHOTO BY JONATHAN BONCEK
RECIPE INDEX
DESSERTS
Blueberry and Goat Cheese Buckle with Honey Glaze 102
Cantaloupe and Mint Yogurt Pops 28
Cashew and Coconut Flan 111
Lard Cake with Grilled Strawberries and Honey Cream 57
You
focus on your craft while
we
focus on your
insurance needs.
Offering specialized coverage
plans for the Charleston Food &
Beverage Industry.
Restaurants | Caterers & Events
Bars | High Value Property
843.856.2909
www.atlanticshield.com
421 Johnnie Dodds Blvd., Suite 200 | Mount Pleasant, SC 29464
THE FRIDGE
IT’S NOT ALL TORTAS AND MARGARITAS IN THE MAGALLANES HOUSEHOLD:
LAS TORTUGAS OWNER JONATHAN AND HIS NEW WIFE, LAUREN, ARE SERIOUS HEALTH NUTS
WHO START THE DAY WITH A SEAWEED SMOOTHIE.
The couple makes
daily smoothies
with whatever
vegetables they have
on hand, seaweed, lots
of basil, ginger, and a
little bit of fruit.
A crisp,
easy-drinking
IPA from friends
at Wiseacre
Brewing in
Memphis.
With its slight
salinity and hypercarbonation, Topo
Chico mineral
water is a household
favorite.
Dates and
figs to sweeten
smoothies.
Pickled carrots,
sweet peppers,
and olives are
snacking staples.
The house-made
horchata (recipe
page 110) from
Las Tortugas is
habit-forming.
“My wife makes
the best sweet
tea ever,” says
Jonathan.
Salty, nutty
queso Cotija is grated
on everything from
salads to eggs.
His morning ritual:
a tablespoon of
cod liver oil and
a couple slugs of
kombucha.
PHOTO BY BRANDON DILL
learn
more
THELOCALPALATE.COM
116

The Local Palate - July 2016

Transcription

Similar documents

grilled country style ribs

peach stick - Cotton Gin Village

seasoning blend

{ Tante Marie`s Cooking School } 11I pound medium white or brown

Read an excerpt - Moody Publishers

mother`s day - Martha Stewart

Ekadashi Cooking Demo

By planning ahead and dividing the work to create these irresistible

Master Page

JPAS James and the Giant Peach - Jefferson Performing Arts Society