super actives

super actives
Super Actives
Endless Efficacy
R aw
mate rials
SUPER ACTIVES
Although cosmetics have existed since thousands of years, the great progress in the
diversification of products and functions in safety and efficacy has been made only during the
last century. Modern cosmetic science made possible the development of new ingredients
with very specific mechanism of action, designed to improve skin health.
The claims created and rewards offered to cosmetics as “Super actives”, evidently meet the
consumers demand for the highest possible degree of effectiveness.
Sinerga Super Actives are a line of key ingredients created to play a high-end role in
improving skin function and protection when designed to moisturize, protect and
texture or prevent ageing.
In particular, the specificity of certain mechanisms of action in skin bacterial colonization,
ageing and barrier function restoration needs specific responses that “Sinerga Super Actives”
give.
BACTERIAL COLONIZATION MODULATION
Indeed Verochic® plays a key role in modulating bacterial colonization and follicular
hyperkeratosis, contributing in acne and odor management.
BARRIER FUNCTIONS IMPROVEMENT
Tri-solve® and Trealix® improve the barrier functions, the hydration of stratum corneum and
skin smoothness by providing both water holding properties and polar lipids to damaged
and aged stratum corneum.
MICROCIRCULATION MODULATION
Specific target is also needed when addressing problems related to skin microcirculation
that can be modulated and improved in conditions such as cellulite by new formulations
increasing bioavailability of actives (X-solve), and/or in new emerging specific areas of
treatment like the eye bags, where improvement of microcirculation should be associated to
decrease in wrinkling and puffiness (Eyedren).
GLYCATION AND FREE-RADICALS REDUCTION
A new anti ageing tetrapeptide (ATP 23) that stops the oxidative damage and inhibits
glycation of dermal proteins, two of the main causes of skin ageing.
It repair, regenerates and fortifies the skin barrier with anti-wrinkle benefits.
EFFICACY
INGREDIENT
APPLICATIONS
HYDRATION
TRI-SOLVE®
TREALIX®
Treatments for face and body care
PRO ACNE
VEROCHIC®
Products for face and hair care
ANTI AGEING
ATP 23
TRI-SOLVE®
EYEDREN
VEROCHIC®
X-SOLVE
Treatments for face and body care
DEODORISATION
VEROCHIC®
Products for underarms and feet
SKIN PROTECTION
TREALIX®
ATP 23
Treatments for face and body care
HEAVY LEGS
X-SOLVE
Products for legs
TREALIX®
“Sugar of Life”
INCI NAME
Trehalose, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
DESCRIPTION
A well balanced combination of a natural and unique disaccharide (Trehalose) with a vegetablederived fraction (Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein) that simulates the composition of skin’s Natural
Moisturizing Factor (NMF).
Trealix® wraps water molecules, improves the water holding ability and intrinsic water levels of
the skin, capturing hydration and keeping it constant.
Has a “cosmotropic” capacity so it is able to stabilize proteins and prevent their denaturation
during drying and freezing.
It contains a relevant amount of polysaccharide, vegetable proteins and amino acids that restore
the normal skin hydration.
FEATURES
• Innovative moisturizing and soothing
cosmetic ingredient particularly suitable for
delicate skin
• Hydrating properties have been
demonstrated to be 6 times more efficient
than reference products
• Superficial and deep moisturizing action
with long lasting effects
BENEFITS
• Well and highly hydrated skin
• Regulates and retains moisture in the skin
under any environmental conditions
• Long lasting moisturizing effects
• Emollient, moisturizing and lenitive actions
particularly indicated for delicate and dry skin
COSMETIC APPLICATIONS
Moisturizing creams and lotions
Day and night creams
Creams for treating dry skin, UV-exposed skin and ageing skin
LEVEL OF USE: 1 - 5%
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Aspect: clear liquid
Colour: from yellow to amber
Odour:characteristic
pH: 5.0 - 6.0
Dry residual: 50 - 60%
Efficacy tests
In vivo
• Moisturizing effect (in comparison acute test - Corneometry)
• Moisturizing effect versus placebo (in use test - Corneometry)
• Moisturizing effect versus glycerin (acute test - Corneometry)
FORMULATION GUIDELINES WITH TREALIX®
MOISTURIZING EMOLLIENT CREAM
Formulation code: LSIN 1008
Ingredients
Phase
% w/w
PHYTOCREAM 2000 (SINERGA)
A
10.00
Buxus (Simmondsia) chinensis
A
5.00
Butyrospermum parkii
A
4.00
Olea Europeae Oil Unsaponifiables
A
5.00
Parfum
A
0.60
Dimethicone
Tocopherol, Lecithin, Ascorbyl Palmitate,
Citric Acid
Water
A
0.95
A
0.05
B
to 100
GRAM 1 (SINERGA)
B
0.30
MCI-MI (SINERGA)
B
0.05
Disodium Edta
B
0.15
Glycerin
B
3.50
TREALIX (SINERGA)
B
2.00
RED ALGA GEL (SINERGA)
B
4.00
Characters
• Aspect: Consistent Emulsion
• Colour: Ivory
• pH:
5.5
• Viscosity: 10.000 m.Pas
Method
• Weight phase A and heat up to 70°C.
• Weight phase B and heat up to 70°C.
• Add phase A to phase B and mix until
homogeneous aspect.
• Cool down under low stirring to 30°C.
MOISTURIZING NANO - CREAM GEL
Formulation code: LSIN 1998
Ingredients
Phase
% w/w
NANOCREAM (SINERGA)
A
8.50
Dicaprylyl Ether
A
5.00
Tocopheryl Acetate
A
0.40
Lecithin
A
0.25
NATICIDE (SINERGA)
A
1.00
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
A
2.00
Alfa Bisabolol
A’
0.35
Water
B
73.00
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP
Copolymer
C
2.00
RED ALGA GEL (SINERGA)
D
5.00
TREALIX (SINERGA)
D
2.00
Parfum
D
0.50
Characters
• Aspect: Light Emulsion
• Colour:White
• pH:
7.5
• Viscosity: 8.000 m.Pas
Method
• Weight in a becker once at a time the components
of phase A with moderate stirring.
• Heat up to 70°-75°C and stir until clear and
homogenous mixture forms.
• At 75°C add phase A’.
• Heat up to 70°- 75°C the 30% of available water.
Slowly add the hot water to the phase A: the
mix must be clear.
• It’s very important to have the phase inversion that
is obtained with a light bluish coloration (Tyndall).
• At 45-50°C add slowly the other part of water
to the mix.
• Add phase C and homogenize until completely
homogeneous.
• Cool down till room temperature and add under
slow stirring phase D.
X-SOLVE
High performance skin microcirculation modulator
INCI NAME
Ethyl Ximenynate, Lecithin
DESCRIPTION
An innovative and patented combination of effective ingredients as enhancer of the blood
vessels flow at the level of skin capillaries.
A new technique of micro-encapsulation obtained by homogenization into lipophylic vehicle.
Ideal vehicle for better delivering a reduced amount of actives but keeping a high level of efficacy
with better cosmetic qualities of spreadibility and diffusion.
To be used in conditions of impaired skin microcirculation such as cellulite, local adiposity and
related disorders.
Its usage in cosmetics is suggested to improve circulatory disease of legs, particularly when an
alteration of capillary permeability is present, such as heavy legs, body firming-up and cellulite.
FEATURES
• Stability after incorporation into cosmetics
• Transparent liquid, easy to use
BENEFITS
• Great effectiveness on impaired skin
microcirculation
• Vasokinetic activity due to its affinity to
PUFA structure
• Increase of blood flow
COSMETIC APPLICATIONS
Anti-Cellulite treatments
Heavy legs emulsions
Stretch marks creams
LEVEL OF USE: 1 - 3%
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Aspect: viscous gel
Colour: from yellow to amber
Odour:characteristic
pH (10% sol.): 4.5 - 7.5
Viscosity: 5.000 - 12.000 m.Pas
Dry residual: 85 - 95%
Active content: 17 -21%
Efficacy tests
In vivo
• Skin microcirculation effect (Laser Doppler flussimetry) versus active
FORMULATION GUIDELINES WITH X-SOLVE
HEAVY LEGS CRÈME
Formulation code: LSIN 2422
Ingredients
Phase
% w/w
Water
A
to 100
Disodium E.D.T.A.
A
0.10
Escin
A
0.30
Glycerin
A
2.00
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross
Polymer
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
A’
0.70
A’
0.25
A
0.25
Ethylhexyl Etylexanoate
B
3.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
B
3.00
Dicaprylyl Ether
B
2.00
Simmondsia Chinensis Oil
B
2.00
Olea Europeae Oil Unsaponifiables
B
2.00
FENOSSIPARABEN (SINERGA)
B
0.50
Tocopherol, Lecythin, Ascorbyl Palmitate
B
0.10
Cyclopentasiloxane
C
2.00
X-SOLVE (SINERGA)
D
2.00
Menthyl Lactate
D
0.50
Menthol
D
0.15
Aminomethyl Propanol
D
0.80
GRAM 1 (SINERGA)
D
0.30
ELASTOCELL (SINERGA)
D
1.50
PHYTOPROLIN COMPLEX (SINERGA)
D
1.00
RED ALGA GEL (SINERGA)
D
5.00
Parfum
D
0.70
Gingko Biloba Extract, Glycerin
D
1.00
Characters
• Aspect: Gel Emulsion
• Colour: Ivory
• pH:
6.8
• Viscosity: 10.000 m.Pas
Method
• Weight phase A and heat up to 70°C. and add
polymer (A’) to the phase under homogeniser
and mix until uniform.
• Weight phase B and heat up to 70°C. Pour
phase B in phase A and mix until homogeneous
aspect. At 50°C add C under homogeniser. Cool
down at room temperature under low stirring.
• At 30°C add in sequence components of phase D.
TRI-SOLVE®
Skin Barrier Recover
INCI NAME
Trehalose, Cholesterol, Ceramide NS, Hydrogenated Lecithin
DESCRIPTION
An innovative and patented combination of all key lipid ingredients (i.e. cholesterol, ceramide and
free fatty acids) with a humectant sugar (Trehalose) to increase the control of skin moisturizing
and to induce an ideal skin retention.
It provides a useful support in managing skin barrier disorders, in particular, since barrier
alterations are usually related to dry skin conditions and can improve dramatically stratum
corneum hydration.
It restores a deranged barrier by restructuring the intercellular lipid network.
FEATURES
•
•
•
•
Stability after incorporation into cosmetics
Easy- to-use transparent liquids
Simple systems for solubilising lipids
Ideal vehicle for keeping a high level of
efficacy with better cosmetic qualities of
spreadibility and diffusion
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
Positive effects on damaged skin barrier
Barrier recovering capabilities
Improvement of skin barrier homeostasis
Increase of water retention properties
COSMETIC APPLICATIONS
Moisturizing creams and emulsions
Hydrating body lotions
High barrier hand creams
All products for dry skin, ageing and UV exposed skin
LEVEL OF USE: 1 - 3%
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Aspect: viscous gel
Colour: from yellow to amber
Odour:characteristic
pH (10% sol.): 4.5 - 7.5
Viscosity:
600 - 6000 m.Pas
Dry residual: 77 - 87%
Efficacy tests
In vivo
• Skin barrier recovery (Corneometry - TEWL) versus placebo
• Skin barrier recovery (Corneometry - TEWL) versus benchmark
FORMULATION GUIDELINES WITH TRI-SOLVE®
TRI-SOLVE SKIN BALANCE CRÈME
Formulation code: LSIN 3443
Ingredients
Phase
% w/w
PHYTOCREAM 2000 (SINERGA)
A
5.00
Octyldodecanol
A
4.50
Glyceryl Stearate/PEG 100 Stearate
A
4.00
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
A
4.00
WAX-OLEA (SINERGA)
A
4.00
Paraffinum Liquidum
A
3.00
FENOSSIPARABEN (SINERGA)
A
0.70
Water
B
62.90
Glycerin
B
6.00
Xantan Gum
B
0.50
Allantoin
B
0.30
Disodium EDTA
B
0.10
Bisabolol
C
0.50
Dimethicone
D
2.50
TRI-SOLVE (SINERGA)
E
2.00
Parfum
F
0.20
Characters
• Aspect: Semi Consistent Emulsion O/W
• Colour: White Ivory
• pH:
5.35
• Viscosity: 3.300 m.Pas
Method
• Melt phase A to 70°C-75°C except butter
thatmust be added once melted.
• Heat phase B to 70°C and disperse Xantan Gum
with medium/high speed stirring until clear gel
is reached.
• Add phase A to phase B while homogenizing
with high speed for 5 minutes until
homogeneous emulsion.
• Cool with continued mixing to room
temperature then add phase C,D,E and
fragrance with stirring to achieve an
homogeneous and consistent emulsion.
VEROCHIC®
Patented multifunctional ingredient
INCI NAME
Shikimic Acid
DESCRIPTION
A new natural cosmetic ingredient obtained from Illicium verum (Star anise) with deodorant and
antimicrobial activities.
Thanks to its anti-enzymatic activity, it helps to :
- eliminate human odours acting as inhibitor of fatty acids production
- reduce and control body odours.
It is also indicated for its anti acne, anti dandruff, exfoliating properties.
FEATURES
• Natural ingredient
• Inhibits growth of M.furfur and P.acnes
• Inhibits degradation of triglycerides into
free fatty acids
• Enhances peeling capacity by means of
TEWL increase
• Fully compatible with all usually water
phase ingredients
BENEFITS
• Deodorant efficacy
• Sebum control activity
• Exfoliating agent
COSMETIC APPLICATIONS
Deodorants (roll-on, spray, cream)
Anti-acne creams and emulsions
Exfoliating treatments
Anti dandruff shampoos and lotions
LEVEL OF USE: 0.5 - 2%
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Aspect: fine powder
Colour: white
Odour:characteristic
Purity: 98 - 100%
Humidity: 0 - 5%
Heavy metals: <10ppm
Ashes: 0 - 1%
Efficacy tests
In vitro
• Anti-enzymathic (inhibition Lipase activity)
• Anti-microbial (inhibition M. furfur)
In vivo
• Exfoliating effect (TEWL and confocal microscopy)
• Deodorising effect (self assessment)
FORMULATION GUIDELINES WITH VEROCHIC®
DEO SPRAY NO GAS
Formulation code: LSIN 3390
Ingredients
Phase
% w/w
Alcohol
A
40.00
Water
A
q.b.100
VEROCHIC (SINERGA)
A
1.00
Panthenol/Glycerin
A
3.00
Preservatives
A
q.b
NATISOL (SINERGA)
B
1.00
Parfum
B
0.50
Sodium Hydroxide **
PH 5-6
Characters
• Aspect: Solution
• Colour: Clear
• pH:
5-6
Method
• Weight phase A.
• Weight phase B.
• Add phase A into phase B under low stirring.
Mix until clear aspect.
** Add If necessary
UNDERARM DEO CREAM
Formulation code: LSIN 3861
Ingredients
Phase
% w/w
EWOCREAM (SINERGA)
A
4.00
Dicaprylyl Ether
A
7.00
Cetearyl Isononanoate
A
5.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
A
3.00
Parfum
A
0.50
Water
B
to 100
Glycerin
B
3.00
Preservatives
B
q.b
Magnesium Sulfate
B
0.50
VEROCHIC (SINERGA)
B
1.00
Characters
• Aspect: Emulsion
• Colour: White
• Viscosity: 15.000 m.Pas
Method
• Weight phase A.
• Weight phase B and slowly add to phase A under
low stirring.
• After 10 minutes mix until homogeneous aspect.
EYEDREN
Eye bags minimizer
INCI NAME
Ethyl Ximenynate, Potassium Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acids, Palm Glycerides, Capryloyl Glicine
DESCRIPTION
A functional ingredient of vegetable origin that helps prevent the circles and minimize the
bags under the eyes. It is obtained by esterification of Ximenynic Acid from Ximenia (Olacaceae
families) and carried by an innovative structure to improve the efficacy.
FEATURES
• Improves capillary resistance and vascular
tone
• Decreases capillary fragility
• Improves and speeds up microcirculation
• Improves skin health by improving local
circulation
• Reduces excess of staining liquids in the
bags and circles under the eyes
• Reduces wrinkles in the area around the
eyes in particular crow’s foot
BENEFITS
• Less eye puffiness
• Less swollen eye bags
• Less deep and superficial wrinkles in the eye
silhouette
COSMETIC APPLICATIONS
Eye contour serums
Anti bags creams
Anti-wrinkles eye creams
LEVEL OF USE: 2 - 5%
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Aspect: fluid gel
Colour: from yellow to amber
Odour:characteristic
Viscosity: 1.000 - 2.000 m.Pas
Active content: 18 - 22%
pH (10% sol.): 6.5 - 8.0
Efficacy tests
In vivo
• Skin ageing degree of periocular zone (Spiderming graph)
• Eyes puffyness (Skin Spectrophotometry)
• Anti age and anti wrinkle effect (Skin roughness, smoothness and profilometry by Primos®)
• Photo images of wrinkles and crow’s foot by Primos®
FORMULATION GUIDELINES WITH EYEDREN
EYE BAGS MINIMIZER SERUM
Formulation code: LSIN 3509
Ingredients
Phase
% w/w
PHYTOCREAM 2000 (SINERGA)
A
8.00
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
A
2.00
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
A
0.50
Caprylic/Capric Trygliceride
A
4.00
Simmondsia Chinensis (jojoba)oil
A’
2.00
Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate,
Citric Acid
A’
0.05
Water
B
to 100
Disodium EDTA
B
0.10
Glycerin
B
1.00
Sodium Carbomer
B’
0.70
Sodium Hyaluronate
C
1.00
TREALIX (SINERGA)
C
1.00
ELASTOCELL (SINERGA)
C
2.00
EYEDREN (SINERGA)
C
3.00
Dimethicone
C
0.50
FENICAP (SINERGA)
C
0.80
Tocopheryl Acetate
C
0.20
Parfum
C
0.17
Characters
• Aspect: Light Emulsion
• Colour: White
• pH:
7.18
• Viscosity: 5.500 m.Pas
Method
• Weight in a becker once at a time the
components of phase A with moderate stirring.
• Heat up to 70°-75°C and add phase A’.
• Weight phase B and heat up to 70°- 75°C. add
polymer (B’) to the phase under homogeniser and
mix until uniform.
• Pour phase A in phase B and mix until
homogeneous aspect.
• Cool down till room temperature under low
stirring and add under slow stirring phase C.
ATP 23
Rejuvenating amino peptide complex
INCI NAME
Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10, Glycerin, Buffered Citrate
DESCRIPTION
A new anti ageing tetrapeptide that stops the oxidative damage caused by free radicals and
inhibits glycation of dermal proteins.
A rejuvenating amino peptide obtained by condensation between Azelaic acid and two moles
of Alanine and Histidine to get a Tetrapeptide. Recommended for aged skin in order to prevent
expression wrinkles and to renew skin cells.
FEATURES
•
•
•
•
Reduces the AGE’s
Against free radicals
Stops glycation
Anti ageing activity
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
Reduces wrinkles and lines
Younger looking skin
Regenerate and fortify the skin barrier
Helps to prevent signs of skin ageing
COSMETIC APPLICATIONS
Anti ageing products for face and body care
Antioxidant day creams
Face creams for mature skin
Firming serums
Pro-age advanced serums
LEVEL OF USE: 1 - 5%
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Aspect: clear liquid
Colour: colorless to pale yellow
Odour:characteristic
Dry residual: 23 - 28%
pH: 5.0 - 7.0
Active content : 4 - 6%
Efficacy tests
In vitro
• Anti oxidant capacity (peroxides-induced oxidation)
• Scavenging effect (UVA- Keratinocytes)
• Anti glycation activity (human fibroblasts AGEs inhibition)
In vivo
• Anti age and anti wrinkle effect (Skin roughness, smoothness and profilometry by Primos®)
• Skin density (by Dermascan)
FORMULATION GUIDELINES WITH ATP 23
PRO-AGE ADVANCED SERUM
Formulation code: LSIN 4041
Ingredients
Phase
% w/w
HITECREAM®3000 (SINERGA)
A
3.00
Cyclopentasiloxane
A
5.00
Water
B
to 100
Glycerin
B
3.00
Sodium Polyacrylate
B’
0.50
FENICAP (SINERGA)
B
1.00
Sodium Edta
B
0.10
Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethicone/
Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolimer
C
15.00
ATP 23 (SINERGA)
D
5.00
TRI-SOLVE® (SINERGA)
E
2.00
TREALIX® (SINERGA)
F
2.00
Parfum
G
0.50
Characters
• Aspect: Semi Consistent Bigel
• Colour: White
• pH:
6.00
• Viscosity: 4.000 m.Pas
Method
• Weight phase A and heat to 70° C.
• Weight phase B, heat to 70°C and add B’ under
homogeniser until homogeneous aspect.
• Add A to B under homogeniser until
homogeneous aspect.
• At 50°C, add C under homogeniser to A+B.
• At 30°C add to the bulk D, E and F.
• Finally add the parfum (phase G).
REJUVENATING NOURISHING CREAM
Formulation code: LSIN 4055
Ingredients
Phase
% w/w
EWOCREAM (SINERGA)
A
4.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
A
2.50
Dicaprylyl Ether
A
5.00
Persea Gratissima Oil
A
2.50
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
A
5.00
Hydrogeneted Castor Oil
A
0.50
Tocopheryl Acetate
A
0.20
Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract, Glycine
Soja Oil
A
0.05
Water
B
to 100
Glycerin
B
2.00
Preservatives
B
q.b.
ATP 23 (SINERGA)
C
5.00
Alcohol, Aqua, Acmella oleracea Extract
D
2.00
Parfum
E
0.50
Characters
• Aspect: Consistent Emulsion
• Colour: White
• Viscosity: 10.600 m.Pas
Method
• Weight phase A.
• Weight phase B and add to phase A under
stirring.
• After 10 minutes mix under homogeniser until
homogeneus aspect.
• Add phase C, D and E and stir.
Sinerga - Via Pitagora, 3 - 20016 Pero (Milano) - Italy
Tel +39 02 3394011 - Fax +39 02 33940138 - [email protected] - www.sinerga.it