Every year, more than 10,000 visitors come to the

The inner life of Oaxaca
Issue 30/1
February March April 2011
www.oaxacatimes.com
Every year, more than 10,000 visitors come to the city during
Photography: MATTHARDING
that week, and as many are expected this year, according to the
Tourism and Economic Development office in Oaxaca. Most
of these tourists are Mexican students and family members
who live in other parts of the country and come to visit their
relatives.Sunbathing at the beach, observing religious masses,
or enjoying an ice cream at the Zócalo…
continues on page 3
2
www.oaxacatimes.com
This Month
Feb-Mar-Apr 2011
Enjoy learning Spanish
Contents
Semana Santa.......................................... 1
Mind your manners................................ 5
Play Ball! ................................................. 6
Classified Ads......................................... 7
Presumed guilty...................................... 8
Epicurean Dining in Oaxaca.............. 10
ICC
Fast, Fun
& Effective!!!
1. THE INSTRUCTORS
105 Escaleras del Fortín
Phone 50-123-59
www.iccoax.com
Map & City Guide................................ 11
have advanced academic credentials to
teach Spanish as a second language and
are carefully selected and supervised.
Others schools train individuals from
community, regardless of education,
2. THE TEACHING
APPROACH
uses advanced techniques to go beyond
the grammar and structure of Spanish
and includes a more funttional and communicative approach to learning. The focus is on “speaking“ Spanish.
3.THE CULTURAL
INTEGRATION
COMPONENT
of the program helps you meet and mix
with Mexicans while you get involved
with Mexican culture, this reinforcing
you use of Spanish at the same time.
4.THE SCHOOL
has achieved impressive results at all levels of fluency. This is why many top US
universities send students to ICC for college credit.
5. THE MANY ADDED
EXTRAS
www.oaxacatimes.com
Director: Lic. Yolanda García Caballero
EDITOR: Brian Lyle G.
DESIGNER: Rodolfo Gomez Garcia
WEBSITE Design: Warren Lyle
COLLABORATOR: Francisco Toledo
include home stay placements, field
trips, lctures, Mexican festivities, weaving workshops with indigenous women,
Mexican cooking classes, salsa dance lessons, free internet access and knowledgeable staff who are happy to help you with
any other needs you may have during
your stay in Oaxaca.
For advertising call Yolanda Garcia at (951) 501 23 59
Letters to the editor: [email protected]
Oaxaca Times es una publicación mensual, editada por el Instituto de Comunicación y Cultura A.C. Escaleras del Fortín No 105, Col. Centro, C.P. 68000, Editor Responsable: Yolanda Garcia Caballero, Número de Certificado de Licitud
de Título (9211). Número de Certificado de Licitud de Contenido (6457). Distribuido por el Instituto de Comunicación y Cultura A.C. Escaleras del Fortín No.
105, Col. Centro, C.P. 68000. Telefono: 501-2359. Imprenta Proveedora Gráfica de Oaxaca S.A. de C.V. Colón No. 605, Colonia centro, C.P. 68000. La reproducción total o parcial de textos o material gráfico de esta publicación sin la
autorización por escrito del editor, queda estrictamente prohibida. Los artículos
firmados son responsabilidad de sus autores. Las menciones de productos, marcas, servicios, precios y firmas comerciales son gratuitas y sólo tienen carácter
de servicio informativo para los lectores, por lo que no implican responsabilidad
ni compromiso alguno por parte de los editores. http://www.oaxacatimes.com
E-mail: [email protected]
105 Escaleras del Fortín 501 23 59
3
Feb-Mar-Apr 2011
Or in the park of La Soledad church. How
will you spend Semana Santa in Oaxaca?
This traditional Catholic holiday, which commemorates the last week in the life of Jesus
Christ, begins on Palm Sunday (April 17)
and culminates on Easter Sunday (April 24).
Generally a somber holiday, Semana Santa
in Oaxaca has a more lively and celebratory
feel.
But many foreigners also choose the beginning of April to travel to Oaxaca. In fact,
Semana Santa is the second busiest season
for Oaxacan hotels, after Día de Muertos
(Day of the Dead) in the fall. At the luxurious Hotel Camino Real, each of the 91
rooms was reserved between 2- 6 months in
advance and small bed and breakfast with
few rooms, are booked a year before.
Travel agencies throughout Mexico and
the United States are given the schedule of
events months in advance and actively promote trips. As travelling that week has become increasingly popular, few hotels won’t
increase their rates and low season prices are
not likely to start before the Monday after
Easter.
As thousands of visitors pour into Oaxaca,
many locals take off to the beaches, Puebla,
the Isthmus, or Chiapas. Since Thursday and
Friday before Easter are paid vacation days
and Easter Sunday is a national holiday, most
workers, including government employees,
receive the whole week off with pay. Therefore, for many Semana Santa is the annual
week of vacation.
However, many Oaxacan religious families
prefer not to travel on Saint Days and stay
at home. Observance of Semana Santa in
Mexico dates from the Spanish conquest,
but as with other traditional Catholic holidays, elements of indigenous customs have
been incorporated throughout the years. In
some parts of Mexico, self-flagellation and
real crucifixions (without nails) are practiced.
In all pueblos, silent religious processions
occur almost nightly.
In Oaxaca, church members perform elaborate re-enactments, rehearsed for months,
and streets are taken over by festive carnivals,
religious artwork exhibitions, and fireworks.
Vendors sell refreshing springtime treats like
Aguas frescas, fruit flavoured waters, Raspados, shaved ices, and delicious Dulces regionales, regional sweets and candies made of
coconut and tamarind.
If you chose Oaxaca to celebrate Semana
Santa, you won’t lack options. And whatever
you decide to do, you won’t be alone!
Some highlights:
For a complete listing of Semana Santa
events, visit the tourist office on Av. Juarez 703.
www.oaxacatimes.com
Title
The Lent season
After the Carnival, comes the spiritual time of Lent. Lent is the period of 40 days
between Ash Wednesday and Easter. The word for Lent in Spanish is Cuaresma, it
comes from cuarenta, meaning forty, because Lent lasts forty days (The six Sundays are
not counted). For Catholics this is traditionally a time of abstinence meant to correspond to the time Jesus spent in the wilderness. Many people give up something for Lent.
In Mexico it is customary to abstain from eating meat on Fridays during Lent. In local
markets of Oaxaca you can buy vegetarian tamales (tamales de verduras).
Mexican Food for Lent:
Some foods are traditionally associated with Lent in Mexico. It is very common to eat
seafood on Fridays - Another food commonly eaten during Lent is empanadas de vigilia.
These empanadas are made with a flour pastry shell and stuffed with vegetables or tuna.
Nopales (cactus leaves) are also part of the diet.Nopales salad is refreshing and very
healthy.
March 9 to April 24 is the lent season this year- In Oaxaca every Friday from 9
to noon time of the lent season there is an old tradition for university girls, to walk to
the Juárez park, strawl around and receive flowers from young men. Marimba music or
band music are part of the Llano Fridays.
TRADITIONAL OAXACAN &
INTERNATIONAL FOOD
 M. Alcalá St.
Open from Tuesday to Sunday
from  AM to midnight
Fridays & Sat. until  AM
For Reservations call,
Credit cards welcome
4
Clubbing
This
Month
Also check the Casa de la Cultura on
Colon and Santos Degollado for alternate activities.
Sunday April 17th- Palm Sunday
(very different celebration in the town
of San Antonino Castillo Velazco)
-located 30 minutes away from the
city-Blessing of the palms at all city
Discover the secrets behind
black pottery, cotton and
wool textiles.
Visit indigenous markets,
a 16th century ex-convent
and archeological zones
501 23 59
www.oaxacatimes.com
Churches. Parades throughout the city.
Figurines made of Palm leaves are sold
on the streets.
Thursday 21 thVisit to 7 churches from 5:PM
Friday April 24th- Good Friday´6PM Religious procession-Main
streets of downtown area
Feb-Mar-Apr 2011
8pm: La Soledad Church: Procession of the Holy Virgin around the
church and musical performance
Glorious Saturday-23 of April
Sunday April 14th- Easter Sunday
Easter mass at all churches.
Carmen Alto Church: feather dance,
processional, and fireworks.
Delitious
Pizzas
and
pastas
Tuscany
Traditional
Home
Cooking
I TA L I A N
R E S TAU R A N T
100 Pino Suarez St. Phone: 516 11 22
Open from 1 to 11 PM / Sundays until 10 PM / Closed on tuesdays
5
Feb-Mar-Apr 2011
www.oaxacatimes.com
World
This
Month
Mind your
manners
A few subtle shifts in speech and attitude will help you get along It’s
a busy morning in the Zocalo and folks are lined up five-deep to get
their newspapers. The young woman is tall, blond, and obviously not
a native Oaxaqueña. When she reaches the man selling newspapers
she pulls out a telephone card. Holds it in her hands and says, quite
loudly in English. “Give me one of these.”
The newspaper vendor pulls out a phone card and the young
woman proceeds to hand him a 20 peso bill. He takes the bill in
his hands turns it over once, turns it over twice, and appears to be
memorizing the serial number. The young woman squawks, “There’s
nothing wrong with my money.”
Ah, but in Mexico, along with a healthy respect for the peso, there
is an equally healthy respect for good manners. And from the moment the young woman stepped up to the counter she was, in native
custom, and this is the custom we care about, extremely rude. In a
country where not everyone has running water, or even a high school
education, how you comport yourself and behave towards others has
far more importance than what kind of car you drive. At least in the
day-to-day conduct of business.
a really beautiful rug, but just not for you.
The Mexican economy is as bad as in many countries of the world,
be aware and do not dress fancy to visit markets.
Do not wear gold earrings, or in general gold jewerly Take only the
money you might need and do not take credit cards or passport with
you in the market or in little towns.
Hello and Goodbye
Court and Spark
Many of us arrive in Oaxaca knowing little Spanish. The culture
shock of being in an environment where you can’t even read the
street signs can be disorienting. But the fastest way to get your feet
on the ground is to start to learn the little niceties.
This means getting down your Hellos and Goodbyes and Please
and Thank-you.
Also a fine How are you doing? Is the perfect way to get your feet
on the ground. Even if you don’t have enough command of the
language to ask the newspaper vendor if he has a telephone card
for you. Everyone should learn how to say please – por favor. And
thank-you – muchas gracias. You can never go wrong with either
phrase.
If you are a woman and traveling alone, even if only for a taxi cab
ride, chances are you may be in for a little bit of romanticizing. The
Mexican people are romantics at heart, just watch any telenovela for
fifteen minutes to catch a glimpse of imagined intrigue, and there is
a certain courtliness to their attentive displays of affection. “Linda,
guapa, chica,” don’t take any endearments as such either seriously,
or as offense. However, if some barracho, (drunk) is crude enough
to make a grab for you, it is perfectly acceptable to act highly offended. North American and European men need to know that a
mild flirtation with a Mexican woman is not out of the question, just
don’t expect too much, too soon. Oaxaca is still a very conservative
environment. So despite the up-to-the-minute fashions, bared navels,
and piercings, there is a more traditional sense of morals at play here.
In the end, one of the best ways to acclimate yourself to your
environment is to take some Spanish language and culture classes.
Mastering a few simple phrases, working on increasing your ability
to conduct yourself in society will reward you with the opportunity
of gaining a deeper insight into the rich Oaxacan culture. You can
fill your suitcases with pottery and textiles, but the kind of genuine friendships that arise through communication take work. If you
don’t have the time for studies, then by all means, master the phrases
that allow you to get through the day, along the way you’re sure to
win some smiles.
Mexicans are very sociable with visitors, they love to give and to
receive. -Cariño quiere cariño- If you recieve love, you have to give
love in return. If they are nice to you, you have to be nice to them.
In the marketplace
You’ve read in the guidebooks that you should be prepared to bargain and bargain hard for the goods that you want. But before you
get into a head to head negotiation, first recognize that once that negotiation has started it is presumed to end with your purchasing said
item. Unless you seriously want that lime-green rug with the pink
flowers on it, don’t start bargaining. Many gringos, early on learn the
phrase, “no me gusta”, which means “I don’t like.” The rug seller,
tortilla lady, huipil weaver, or face painter, does not want to hear that
you don’t like what it is they are offering. Don’t ever use the phrase
“no me gusta,” in a restaurant or in the market. What you really mean
to say is that you really, really like that lime-green rug, but it just
doesn’t go with your current decorating scheme. In other words, it’s
A World where “Fatty” is not an Insult
You are in the marketplace along with half a million other folks
and just trying to move along. The man in front of you weighs all
of 400 pounds and you watch as he is approached by a friend who
throws his arms around him, kisses him, and cries, “Gordo, mi amigo!” Try getting away with calling your Aunt Thelma, “Fatty” at the
next family reunion and chances are you won’t get a warm response.
In Mexico people call it like it is, and “Fatty, Skinny,” and everything
in between are accepted terms of endearment. In the market, when a
seller wants to get your attention chances are they may call you white
girl, or white boy, don’t take it as an insult. They just want to make
sure that you know who they are.
6
www.oaxacatimes.com
Life Month
Style
This
OR BAGUETTE FREE DRINK
Feb-Mar-Apr 2011
Free
BUY A CLUB SANDWICH
Mezcal
PLAY BALL!
with first
drink
M.Alcala . Next to Sangre de Cristo Church
416 García Vigil St.
Email: [email protected]
http://www.nightlifeoaxaca.com/desestresse-/
MARCH
APRIL
Saturday 9
Sunday 10
Sunday 20
VERACRUZ
PUEBLA
Tuesday 22
Wednesday 23
Thursday 24
Friday 15
Saturday 16
Sunday 17
CAMPECHE
REYNOSA
Tuesday 29
Wednesday 30
Thursday 31
Friday 22
Saturday 23
Sunday 24
MINATITLAN
Official Schedule
of Play
YUCATÁN
aditional
Unique & tr
od
Mexican fo
tortillas
Home made
lsas
and hot sa
ALL NATURAL!!!
Emilio Carranza 1206
col. Reforma
Ph. 515 09 83
[email protected]
7
Feb-Mar-Apr 2011
HOUSING
LA CASA DEL ENCANTO en Oaxaca: 5 Mexican style
houses with one or two BRs,for one or 2 people. Fully
furnished. Complete kitchen,cable, TV,high speed Internet access,phone,safety box,purified water,solar heated
pool,panoramic view. Weekly cleaning service(optional
laundry service) parking ,gardens,patio,terrace,palapa,su
ndeck.Rates, $250 US per week and up. Special long term
rates.Ph-Fax (951)5201067,5202044 E mail: gilkarl@
prodigy.net.mx
Centrally and quietly located. Eight bloks away from Zocalo. Two
bedrooms, possibility of extending it to three, small study, kitchen with utensils and equipment, bathroom, terrace. Includes
cable TV, wireless internet, electricity, gas, sufficient water (tank
with 5000 liters), $ 5,000.00 mexican pesos per month. Available. If interested, please email [email protected] or
044-951-113-66-21
Comfortable apartments 5 blocks from Zocalo.One-two
bedrooms,kitchen,bath,living/ dining room.Fully furnished.
410 Arteaga St..Ring doorbell Ĩ Phone, 5-16-50-56 [email protected] www.villamaria.homestead.com./
villamaria.html
BEAUTIFUL STUDIO FOR RENT. 130 sqm in Xochimilco (midtown) neighborhood. All facilities(hall 6x10) $600 US per month.
[email protected]
FURNISHED ROOMS 4 Blocks Away from The Zocalo $150
pesos (13 US ) per night. Contact us, [email protected]
APARTMENT FOR RENTThirty two sqaure meters, patio, hot
water, WIFI, kitchen, bathroom, queensize bed, refrigerator,
microwave, cable. $330 US - 044-951-134-94-93. 5165650.
[email protected] .Rento Depto.32 m2, agua
caliente, WIFI, cocina, baño, cama queensize,frigo, microonda,
cable, Patio, $330 US. 044-951-134-94-93. 5165650. [email protected]
FOR RENT small house on Avila Camacho St.Between Colon and Guerrero.10 blocks from the Zocalo.2 bedrooms,bath,
kitchen,living room,phone, internet. For info call,5148738,Cell
phone,04495112266247 Email, [email protected]
FOR SALE OR RENT Houses or apartments in various parts
of Oaxaca for sale or rent with or without furniture. Call Patricia. Phone, 1324723 Movil, 951-5192847, 951-122-3353. Venta
y renta de casas amuebladas y sin amueblar en varios puntos
de la ciudad. Llame a Patricia al, 1324723. Movil, 951-5192847,
951-122-3353
Fully furnished apartments in colonial house. 2 blocks to Santo
Domingo church. Call 951-5010214 or 044 951 1568275
Furnished apartments for rent in a Oaxacan beautiful colonial
house. 4 blocks off The Zócalo. For info call Call the following cell
phone, 9511568275. 52-951-5010214.
www.oaxacatimes.com
We offer 10 studios and 2 one bedroom apartments, beautiful,
completely furnished and nicely decorated. Located 10 minutes
walk from the Zocalo in a tranquil and secure neighborhood, still
historical center. Each unit has its own, equipped kitchenette,
dinner, living area, private bathroom, one or two beds (twin,
double, queen or king size, depending on the unit). Amazing
roof top, common open living room, garden, garage. All utilities
and WiFi included. Rent between 350 and 500 usd. Contact
[email protected] Telephone for messages (if you
leave your e-mail or telephone number we’ll contact you) + 52
951 51 6 90 73 or cell 044 951 119 50 76.
Bungalows for rent, perfect for long - term rental. Fully furnished
and all services includes ( TV cable, wireless internet, electricity, gas and water). Bungalow access through beautiful garden.
Safe and quiet neighborhood. Good location for public transportation, supermarkets , shopping mall and more services. For
more information call 5160304 cell phone 0449511456307 or
email: [email protected].
FOR SALE ¡LIVE IN YOUR OWN PARADISE WHILE RECEIVING INCOME! Complex with 6 bungalows, pool, palapa,
gardens, all furnished and already in service in the best zone of
Oaxaca. e-mail: [email protected]
FOR RENT IN SAN FELIPE DEL AGUA CHARMING 3BR
HOUSE AND 1 BR BUNGALOW IN COLONIAL STYLE. COMPLETLEY FURNISHED, ALL SERVICES. TO BE RENTED
TOGETHER OR SEPARATELY. PANORAMIC VIEW.SEE:
http://www.paginasprodigy.com.mx/vbkandt/ or contact Sra.
Vera at (951) 520-1839 and cell: 044/01-951-547-0899 or e mail
[email protected]
A green oasis in Oaxaca! Studios & Duplex or 2 bedroom apartaments. Fully furnished cleaning and all utilities provided. Weekly
and monthly rates. quiet, safe, idyallic garden setting.English
spoken. Adults only. For information contact with Don fernando
o Sra. tere at 01 951 51 44 062 in Mexico. from USA & Canada
(011 52 951) 51 44 062 or email: [email protected] or call
cell. 044 951 130 0691
Very nice apartment in colonial Jalatlaco neighbrhood. 2 Bdms.
1 large bathroom., kitchen and a lovely patio. $300 US, For information call: 5-15-67-13 or visit us at, 217 Niños Héroes St.
Jalatlaco.
2 Bedrooms for rent shearing an apartment . Clean & safe. Ut.
included and Internet,.Market, supermarket and laundry mat
one block away. 10 minutes from Zócalo. For Inf. call, 2322222
FURNISHED APARTMENT FOR RENT WITH ALL UTILITIES
INCLUDED. One large Bd. Double bed with bedding,kitchen
with all appliances, TV, bathroom with hot water 24hrs, internet and garden, Very clean and new.Quiet & safe neighborhood with commercial centers,transportation taxi and bus,barsrestaurants,sport clubs, near by. 15 minutes walking distance
from downtown area. 302 Pensamientos street between Almendros & Eucaliptos street. In Colonia. Reforma. Info contact: with
José Alberto AT: [email protected] Mobil Phone: 951-1787419
Classified
ThisAds
Month
Fully furnished apartments conveniently located, 5 blocks from
the main square, www.apartment.galeon.com Contact Gerardo,
044/951/156/2893 [email protected]
Furnished one BR apartments in colonial house. Internet. 2
blocks from Sto. Domingo church, call 044-951-156-82-75 or
951 50 102- 14
APARTMENT FOR RENT!!, LOCATED IN THE BEAUTIFUL
COLONIAL JALATLACO, just 5 minutes from the downtown
(Santo Domingo Church and Zocalo), it has two floors, 3 Bds,
big terrace with a perfect view, big patio, full equipment furnished
and nice kitchen, high speed wireless internet and TV. For info
contact: Hermes, English spoken, [email protected]
Cell: 011-52 55-43549134 MEXICO dial 045-55-435-491-34
New architect designed rustic style house in the foothills of Cerro
San Felipe. Scenic views, two large bedrooms, large desks,
open terraces, screened windows, fully-equipped kitchen,
telephone, DSL, TV. Located ten minutes by bus of car from
Oaxaca´s historic center and two minutes walk from San Felipe
Ecological Reserve. This quiet house offers and ideal vacation
home for hikers, nature lovers, birdwatchers, mountain bikers,
writers , artist, or those who simply want to relax while enjoying
both the best of Oaxaca City´s cultural life and tranquility of San
felipe village. Short and long term rentals. all services included.
For more info call (951) 520 2442 or write to casalasterrazas@
yahoo.com
MEDICAL
Specialist on crowns, bridges and dental implants: University of
Michigan. Dr. Angel Gómez Reyes. #312A Bustamante Street.
tel.5164959. Email: [email protected] or visit www.oaxacadental.com
Allergy Specialist and Pediatrician: Dr Rodolfo García Caballero.
808 Alcalá Street.Tel: 5132600.
Profesional Dentist, Cynthia Robles. 1204-B Independencia
Ave. Open 10 to 2 PM &4 to 8 PM. Saturday 10 to 2 PM Ph,
5147046, Movil, 044 951134 9493
MISC
English Language 12 Step Meetings Colon #518 (corner
Manuel Doblado)AA: 7:00pm Monday & Thursday, 1:00pm Saturday OA: 5:30pm Monday Contact: Helen 540‐8137 or Irving
133‐6279 All Friends of Bill Welcome.
ARQUETIPO Contemporary dance under the direction of Alberto Revilla TEATRO JUÁREZ 703 Juárez Avenue 11 and 12
of March 8:30 PM $70 pesos entrance. Tickets available at the
window of Teatro Juárez
ery
deliv
e
m
o
H
8
Travel
This
Month
www.oaxacatimes.com
Entertainment Weekly lists among twelve documentaries that “changed the world,” such films as “An Inconvenient Truth,” “The Cove,” “Supersize Me” and “Fahrenheit 9/11.” While their impact on the entire worldcould
be debated, there is no doubt that these serious (and
seriously entertaining)films played an important role in
raising awarenessaround the issues of climate change,
dolphin slaughter, fast food and Bush’s war on terror.
And it can be argued that a film alone changes nothing
– like the proverbial tree in the forest -- but if a filmis remembered by viewers after they leave the cozy, popcornpunctuated comfort of the theater, if the entertainment
translates into discomfort and noise -- it is the viewers
whocan begin to make the change in whatever world is
their entire world.
This is what “Presumed Guilty” (“Presunto Culpable”)
is banking on. The new Mexican documentary filmed by
two student/lawyers, exposes the absurdity of the justice
system through unprecedented real-time camera access
to the courtroom. It has traveled the world in film festivals
from Madrid to Dubai, winning 15 awards from audiences
and judges, and will premiere in several cities in Mexicoon
February 18, to almost as much fanfare as “Harry Potter” and “Tron.” A check of the Cinepoliswebsite, shows
“Presunto Culpable” as one of the top trailers, one of the
most commented facebook posts, and its logo splashed
across the page with the words “If after seeing it, we do not
shake up our justice system, then we are all guilty.”(from
Alejandro González Iñárritu, director of “Babel,”“21
Grams,”“AmoresPerros” and most recently “Biutiful”).
In “Presunto Culpable,” the dramatic footage of court
proceedings for Antonio Zúñiga, a young man falsely accused of murder, is riveting in part for the entertaining
cast-perfect roles of the real-life protagonists, and in part
because we find that even after all we know, even after
Feb-Mar-Apr 2011
all we hear and see and read, we are still surprised to experience just how very, very broken the Mexican justice
system is – when we are face to face with it, under the
camera lights in real time. “This cannot be,” we say. This
premiere marks the first time that Cinepolis, the largest
chain of theaters in Mexico, is participating in the distribution of a film; and precisely because they believethat
“Presunto Culpable” and its viewers, made angry enough
by what they see, have the potential toeffect real change.
Roberto Hernández and Layda Negrete, the young
married lawyers/students aiming for their PhDs in Public Policy at Berkeley who filmed “Presunto Culpable”
hope to raise enough funding for the movie to send it to
every corner of Mexico. They are hopeful that if enough
people see the truth exposed by their cameras, they may
join the movement for changes in the justice system -changes like filming interrogations and trials, like having
police lineups and using real forensic evidence. Serendipitously timed to coincide with a renewing awareness
in Mexico of the possibilities for change (after a 2008
constitutional amendment that allows for oral trials by
2016), if the film achieves the unlikely for a documentary in Mexico, and actually makes a profit, the proceeds
will be donated to RENACE, a nonprofit organization
well known throughout Mexico for their work in the justice arena. And profit or not, the film has its heart set on
change.
For more information on the film and how you can
support its mission (and perhaps change the world!) see
www.presuntoculpable.org or write [email protected]
The author of this article was falsely incarcerated in Ixcotel State Penitentiary in Oaxaca in the fall of 2003, and
is currently living in New York, where she is a volunteer
for the cause of “Presunto Culpable”.
10
FOOD
This
Month
www.oaxacatimes.com
Feb-Mar-Apr 2011
Epicurean Dining in
By Dick Rothschild
No doubt about it, dining at one of the cafés and restaurants which girdle the Zocolo has its charms. The endless procession
of street vendors, musicians and exotic assortment of strollers lends an air of theatre and excitement to the dining experience.
But when you sense you have had enough noise and commotion and the oversized portions of food are beginning to take their
toll on your waistline, you’ll be pleased to learn of a refuge, a quiet, restorative restaurant nearby.
Only a few blocks East of the Zocalo, at 319 Guerrero (on the north side of the street), is the new Italian café – bistro, Epicuro.
It may require a sharp eye to find, though, because its entrance, like the café itself, is purposely understated. Only a modest sign
slightly larger than two feet square identifies the door. The entrance hall, a long white high-ceilinged space, conceals more than
it reveals of the dramatic bar and dining room beyond it.
The dining room, a great square space with strong structural elements is painted green and has a soaring ceiling surmounted by a large
skylight. On floors of polished black concrete square mahogany finished tables and chairs are scattered, with enough space between them
to allow conversation without being overheard. This sense of privacy
is enhanced by nostalgic music at low volume, mostly show tunes of
the thirties and forties. The size and height of the room itself could
be off-putting were it not for the softening effect of padded pillowed
banquets lining the walls, on which a combination of prints and contemporary artwork are displayed. The overall effect is not perfect,
more a work in progress which seems headed in the right direction.
Epcuro’s menu bills itself accurately as “ Comida Mediterranean
Sana y Sabrosa” (mediterranean food, wholesome and delicious).
While perusing the menu’s food offerings my wife and I each ordered a glass of Valpolicella Classico DOC, a blended red wine from
Itlay’s Veneto District. Neither of us are wine experts but we found
it full bodied and delicious. Epicuro offers a number of other Italian
reds, a Sangiovese, a Bardolino, a Sicilian Nero D’Avola and a couple
of Lambrusco’s as well as three whites, an Abruzzo, a Pinot Grigio
and an Asti Spumante. Unfortunately none of these others are available by the glass. Expanding the offerings by the glass would be a
welcome improvement. Now on to the food.
On the regular menu chef, Christhian offers a modest selection of
appetizers, salads, pastas and sopas, meats (including steaks and roast
beef) and seafood.
In the regular printed menu is an insert on which is typed each “Platillo del dia” (dish of the day). From this list we split an order of
“Enslada mista organica con queso”. One order is ample for two. My
wife ordered “Espagueti a la matriciana” (spaghetti with a sauce of
tomato, pork cheek, olve oil and pecorino cheese). I, longing for a piece
of red meat, ordered the “Filete de res al grill con verdura salteada” ( a
grilled beef filet with sautéed vegetables) .Before they arrived we were
presented with a complementary “amuse bouche,” , tiny bruschettas.
Both main course dishes were perfectly prepared, delicately seasoned
and the portions were manageable. We sampled both of the deserts
offered on the ‘dish of the day’ menu, the “Brunet de chocolate” (a
classic chocolate flan) and the “Semifrio al sabaione” (a structure made
of sticks of semi frozen ice cream and zabaglione). Both were tasty.
Prices are not low but are reasonable given the quality of the cuisine.
Epicuro is the three month old brainchild of Valter Epifaia a
friendly Genoa native who moved to Oaxaca late last year. Like a
baby bird, Epicuro is still a bit awkward, just testing its wings. Drop
in some evening soon to offer it the encouragement is justly deserves.
11
www.oaxacatimes.com
Feb-Mar-Apr 2011
Map
1. Zócalo
2. MACO
Contemporary Art
Museum
3. Alameda
4. Tourist Office
5. Carmen Alto Convent
6. House of Juárez
7. Plazuela del Carmen Alto
8. Santo Domingo Cultural Center
9. Santo Domingo de Guzman
10. Rufino Tamayo Museum
11. Central Market
12. San Juan de Dios Church
13. Science &
Technology
Museum
14. San Felipe Neri
15. Cathedral
16. M. Alcalá Theatre
17. Plaza de la Danza
18. La Soledad Church
19. Merced Church
20. Guelaguetza Auditorium
21. Post Office
22. Observatory
23. Planetarium
24. Central de Abasto
25. Alvarez Bravo
Photography
Center
26. Philately Museum
27. Pochote Movie Theatre
28. Camino Real Hotel
29. Nuevo Mundo Coffee Roaster
30. USA consulate
31. Canadin consulate
32. 1 st. Class Bus Station.
Taller
T
ll d
dell O
Orfebre
f b
workshop
Since 1987
Fine handcrafted Pre Hispanic,
Colonial and Filigree jewels
in silver and gold
The best jewelry store in
Oaxaca where artisans
r
transform gold and silve
into artistic jewels
206 Alcalá St at the corner of Murguía St
205 Alcalá St at the corner of Matamoros St
Ph.: (951) 514 23 86