Brand Class 1. Burberry

The Extraordinary
World of Luxury
“It’s ‘Designer’ darling”
What is so Luxury about Luxury Brands?
What is LUXURY – in other words how do we define a luxury
brand/company/product?
Well, there are not that many Luxury Brands...they are
scattered around the globe, (although France has more than
anywhere else), and they are by definition "niche"...some have
high profiles and others are virtually invisible.
But...why is it important to have an understanding of Luxury
Brands at this particular moment in time? What makes it SO
different – how does it work so differently from “ordinary”
brands/products?
How much does it change – is luxury subject to “fashion” and
seasonal or decade shifts?
Why are they important to students? Who are the key players?
Why in a world of economic difficulties are they (even with the
odd Burberry hiccup!) surviving and indeed generally increasing
business?
Some of the things in a
luxury world to think about
- jewels, menswear,
footwear, fragrance, skin
care, womenswear, leather
goods, hotels, restaurants,
food, florists, event
planners, yachts, airplanes,
cars, watches, spas, vanity
press, books, and ……………….
……………to-day we focus on ……………
fashion and accessories and fragrance……………….
………who
are the key players?….
Basic facts………………………..
PPR Founded 1963
Pinault Printemps Redoute
Gucci 1921
Bottega Veneta 1966
Yves Saint Laurent 1961
Alexander McQueen
Balenciaga 1937
Brioni 1945
Stella McCartney
Sergio Rossi 1968
Boucheron 1858
Puma 1924
LVMH Founded 1987
Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy
Louis Vuitton 1854
Celine 1945
Loewe 1846
Berluti 1895
Kenzo
Givenchy
Marc Jacobs
Fendi 1925
Pucci
Donna Karan
Thomas Pink
Edun
Chaumet 1780
Bulgari 1884
De Beers
Fred
Guerlain 1828
Tag Heuer 1860
Richemont Founded 1988
Johann Rupert
Piaget 1874
Jaeger le Coultre
1833/1866
Dunhill 1893
Lancel
Montblanc 1908
Chloe
Shanghai Tang
Azzedine Alaia
Net a Porter
Cartier 1847
Van Cleef and Arpels 1896
Puig Founded 1914/1963
Jean Paul Gaultier
Paco Rabanne
Carolina Herrera
Ninna Ricci
Diego della Valle 1920’s
Tod’s, Hogan, Roger Vivier,
Schiaparelli
Asprey 1781
Goyard 1792
Hermes 1837
Burberry 1856
Smythsons 1887
Lacoste 1933
Prada 1913
Chanel 1909
Ferragamo 1928
From the fashion point of
view …………………knowing who the
creative players
are………………..
Who works where and with
whom……………………………..
the ever changing
landscape...for employment…
Paco Rabanne – Manish Arora
Carolina Herrera – Herve Pierre
Ninna Ricci - Peter Copping
Celine - Phoebe Philo
Loewe - Stuart Vevers
Kenzo – Humberto Leon & Carol Lim
Givenchy - Riccardo Tischi
Fendi - Karl Lagerfeld
Pucci - Peter Dundas
Lacoste - Felipe Oliviera Baptista
Moncler - Valli and Thome Browne
Ferragamo – Massimiliano Giornetti
Hermes Christophe Lemaire
Burberry Christopher Bailey
Chanel - Karl Lagerfeld
Gucci – Frida Giannini
Bottega Veneta - Thomas Meier
Yves Saint Laurent – Hedi Slimane
Alexander McQueen – Sarah Burton
Balenciaga – Nicholas Gesqhuiere
Sergio Rossi – Bruno Frizoni
Chloe – Claire Waight Keller
MARCO ZANINI – ROCHAS
OLIVIER ROUSTEING – BALMAIN
MARCEL MARONGUI – GUY LAROCHE
DAVID DUNDAS – EMILIO PUCCI
?– UNGARO
ALBERT KRIEMER – AKRIS
?– HALSTON
PHOEBE PHILO – CELINE
CLAIRE WAIGHT KELLER – CHLOE
STUART VEVERS – LOEWE
KARL LAGERFELD - CHANEL
CHRISTOPHER KANE – VERSUS
PIER PAOLO PICCOLI & MARIA GRAZIA
CHIURI – VALENTINO
RODOLFO PAGLIALUNGA - VIONNET
PETER COPPING - NINNA RICCI
NICOLA FORMICETTI – THIERRY MUGLER
FRANCISCO COSTA – CALVIN KLEIN
RICCARDO TISCI – GIVENCHY
HEDI SLIMANE – YVES SAINT LAURENT
MARC JACOBS – LOUIS VUITTON
? - BRIONI
HUMBERTO LEON & CAROL LIM – KENZO
FRIDA GIANNINI – GUCCI
RAF SIMONS – CHRISTIAN DIOR
ROSELLA JARDINI - MOSCHINO
STEFANO CITRON & FEDERICO PIAGGI –
GIANFRANCO FERRE
NICOLAS QHESQUIERE - BALENCIAGA
HERVE PIERRE – CAROLINA HERRERA
MASSIMILIANO GIORNETTI – FERRAGAMO
JEFFREY MONTEIRO – BILL BLASS
CHRISTOPHER BAILEY - BURBERRY
GIOVANNI BEDIN – WORTH
GUILLAUME HENRY – CARVEN
CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE – HERMES
FELIPE OLIVEIRA BAPTISTA - LACOSTE
YVAN MISPELAERE - DIANE VON
FURSTENBERG
MANISH ARORA – PACO RABANNE
UMIT BENAN- TRUSSARDI
JIL SANDER - JIL SANDER
?– TOD’S
Another major highlight of Paris was
evidence on the runways that a new
generation of fashion designers is starting
to establish itself in a significant way. The
catwalk shows of Cédric Charlier, Anthony
Vaccarello and Chitose Abe — the
designer behind the brand Sacai — were
all fully formed; well conceived and
expertly executed. Each of these designers
has brought a fresh new voice to fashion
and proves that Paris is still a hotbed of
emerging designer creativity.
Jessica Michault is editor-in-chief of
Nowfashion.com
Mark Fast, Maxime Simoens, Olivier Rousteing, Guilleume Henry
30/28/26/30’s
1910
………………….So who
is in charge?................. the key
players?...............................
POWER.
According to Forbes magazine,
Arnault is the richest person in
Europe and the 4th richest
person in the world, with net
worth of US$41 billion as of
March 2012.[1]
March 8th 2011 Six weeks after LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton said it wouldn’t
overpay for acquisitions, the worlds largest maker of luxury goods is now
spending more than ever to purchase Bulgari Spa.
Paris, France LVMH, the world's leading luxury retailer, said it had taken a 14.2 percent stake
in Hermes but denied it wanted to take over the French luxury goods firm.
The company controlled by French businessman Bernard Arnault said it wanted to boost the
stake to 17.1 percent at a total cost of 1.45 billion euros ($2.6 billion) but was not seeking even
representation on the Hermes board.
The move makes LVMH the largest Hermes shareholder after the heirs
to the family share of around 70 percent.
There has been speculation about the future of Hermes, known for its fine leather goods and
silk scarves, since the death in May of its charismatic head Jean-Louis Dumas.
In a statement LVMH said that it holds 15,016,000 shares of Hermes International, with the
objective "to be a long-term shareholder of Hermes and to contribute to the preservation of
the family and French attributes which are at the heart of the global success of this iconic
brand."
It added that "LVMH fully supports the strategy implemented by the founding family and the
management team, who have made the brand one of the jewels of the luxury industry.
"LVMH has no intention of launching a tender offer, taking control of Hermes nor seeking
Board representation."
22 March 2012
Hermes bags record 2011 profits and sales
French accessories maker Hermes has reported a record rise in profits and sales,
the latest luxury goods firm to be doing well despite the global economic gloom.
The firm, famous for its Birkin bags and scarves, said net profit rose 41% to 594m euros
(£495m) in 2011 from a year ago. Shares rose 2.7% in Paris.
The firm was recently subject to a bitter takeover battle by LVMH, which
now owns 22% of it.
Hermes, created in 1837 and still family controlled, has opposed any
takeover.
"If I were called LVMH, I would try to buy Hermes," Hermes chief executive Patrick
Thomas told French radio.
"I don't say that it's a bad decision, but it's also my job to protect this house.“
Hermes plans to build two new leather factories in France to cope with demand.
The Huffington Post
So what does this mean for our beloved
Birkin and Kelly bags? Well, Hermès has
already won last year's court battle with
LVMH, securing more than 70 percent of
the shares via a family holding company.
And LVMH has maintained that it's not
seeking to take full control of the brand.
We'll just have to wait and see what the
court decides, but we have a feeling this is
not going to be an easily resolved issue.
UPDATE: LVMH plans to file a retaliatory
lawsuit against Hermès for “blackmail,
false accusations and unfair competition,”
according to a statement released today.
4 September 2012 Hermes files complaint against LVMH over share purchase Hermes is
famed for its scarves and bags
Luxury fashion retailer Hermes has taken legal action against rival LVMH, citing the way it
bought a stake in it two years ago.
Hermes - known for its silk scarves and leather bags - said it had filed the complaint in a
Paris court on 10 July.
"This complaint relates to the terms in which LVMH became a stakeholder in Hermes
International," Hermes said.
LVMH, which currently owns 22.3% of Hermes, has been gradually increasing its holding.
In 2010 LVMH, which is controlled by billionaire businessman Bernard Arnault, revealed that
it had built a surprise stake of 17% in its smaller rival.
As a result, Hermes family shareholders created a majority family holding controlling more
than half of the company's shares.
The move ensures any takeover attempt would now require the approval of the Hermes
family - the majority stakeholder.
France's AMF market watchdog is currently conducting a probe into the terms of LVMH's
stakebuilding.
PARIS | Sun Sep 30, 2012 1:55pm EDT
PARIS (Reuters) - Hermes (HRMS.PA)
enjoyed healthy sales growth in the
summer and September, contrasting with
other luxury brands such as Burberry
(BRBY.L) and Tiffany & Co (TIF.N) which
have warned of deteriorating trading
conditions.
The upbeat trading update on Sunday is
likely to cement the view that the global
luxury market is becoming increasingly
segmented with some brands such as
Hermes, Prada, Dior, Balenciaga feeling no
pain while others, more vulnerable, are
starting to suffer.
Francois-Henri Pinault and his wife Salma Hayak and Linda Evangalista
Other functions
• Manager of Financière Pinault
• President of Artémis Executive Board
• President of Puma’s Supervisory Committee
• President and member of Gucci Group NV
Supervisory Committee
• Vice-president of Boucheron’s Holding and CFAO
Supervisory Committee
• Fnac SA, Soft Computing and Sapardis administrator
• Member of the Yves-Saint-Laurent SAS Supervisory
Committee
• Member of the Chateau Latour winery SC
Management Committee
• Board member Christie’s International Plc.
• President of Sowind Group’s Board Committee
• Administrator of Bouygues SA.
Luxury Retail Group PPR To Acquire Italian Tailor Brand, Brioni
Puig is an international company operating in fashion and fragrance sectors.
The company was founded in 1914 by Antonio Puig Castelló in Barcelona,
Spain. Today the company is still managed by the Puig family.
Puig markets its products in 130 countries and is directly present in 21 of them,
employing 3964 people worldwide. Its turnover in 2011 reached 1300 million
euros in net revenues and 155 million euros in net income.[2][3]
Both in the fashion and fragrances sector, Puig operates under the Carolina
Herrera, Nina Ricci, and Paco Rabanne brands. In the fashion industry, it is also
the majority shareholder of Jean Paul Gaultier.[4] In perfumes it also operates
under the license of the brands Comme des Garçons, Prada, and Valentino,
amongst others.[1]
(Reuters) - French luxury group Hermes (HRMS.PA) sealed its
divorce from fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier by selling its 45
percent stake in his fashion company to Spanish perfume maker
Puig.
Family-owned Puig, which makes perfume for Prada and owns fashion brands Carolina Herrera,
Nina Ricci and Paco Rabanne, will get control of the Gaultier firm by acquiring some of the
designer's shares as part of the deal.
Financial terms were not disclosed, but a source close to the deal said Gaultier's stake, which
together with family members' shares stood at 55 percent, would be cut to around 46 percent.
Jean-Paul Gaultier, who designed Hermes womenswear until last year, had said at his last
fashion show for the luxury brand, that he had lived a "love story" with Hermes and was sad it
had ended.
POWER.
…………….cross platform media
……………instant information
……information anywhere………………
Modern luxury
communications…………..
L2……………………………..
A think tank for digital innovation
We bring together thought leaders from
industry + academia to help brands
navigate the changing digital landscape
The Study
The Digital IQ Index®: Fashion study ranks the digital competence of 64 brands
across four dimensions: Site, Digital Marketing, Social Media, and Mobile. Brand
efforts were measured against more than 675 data points and classified into five
categories: Genius, Gifted, Average, Challenged, or Feeble.
Top Ten Ranking
Brand Class
. Brand Class
1. Burberry Genius
. 6. Coach Genius
2. Ralph Lauren
Genius
. 7. Louis Vuitton
Genius
3. Kate Spade Genius
. 8. Lacoste Gifted
3. Tory Burch Genius
. 9. Hugo Boss Gifted
5. Gucci Genius
. 10. Tommy Hilfiger
Gifted
.
. Ranking out of 64
brands
…………….print continues to
matter……………quality ……limited
edition………………vanity
publishing…………………….auctions……
…….YSL/Taylor/De Rede
Yayoi Kusama and Vuitton and Selfridges
The Little Black Jacket
CHANEL's photographic exhibition dedicated to Karl Lagerfeld's latest book, 'The Little Black Jacket: CHANEL's classic revisited by Karl Lagerfeld and Carine
Roitfeld', will open at the Saatchi Gallery in London in October.
Following on from Tokyo, New York, Taipei and Hong Kong, this special event underlines the brand's values of creativity, modernity and excellence.
The public will discover the versatility and timelessness of the iconic CHANEL jacket through Karl Lagerfeld's 113 photographs, modelled on a range of friends
of the House, with each personality adapting the garment to reflect their own inimitable style - worn as a cape on singer Lily Allen, draped around model
Stella Tennant, or even transformed into a vest on model Edie Campbell.
Running simultaneously with the exhibition, window displays in CHANEL's Bond Street, Sloane Street and Brompton Cross boutiques will present a
selection of jackets from the latest collections.
'The Little Black Jacket: CHANEL's classic revisited by Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld,'* will be available worldwide in bookshops this autumn.
The exhibition will be open to the public from Friday 12th October to Sunday 28th October 2012.
Saatchi Gallery
Duke of York's HQ
King's Road
London, SW3 4RY
Frieze London 2012 - William Ling and FIG
The 26th Biennale des Antiquaires runs from 14th September to the 23rd at the Grand
Palais and alongside the world's most exclusive antique and art dealers are ten of the most
desirable jewellers including Cartier, Chanel, Harry Winston, Boucheron, Piaget, Van Cleef
and Arpels, Dior and for the first time ever Bulgari and Chinese jeweller Wallace Chan. All of
these houses have created their most refined jewels for this event which is the most
important high jewellery client event in the calendar that comes but once every two years.
For a week at least, fashionistas have been bitten by the art bug………………………………………
Bling versus Whisper Chic
…………….heritage ……………craft and
history… skills and
quality………………timeless…….
investment………… heirloom…………
Larisa Latynina and Michael Phelps, olympic gymnast and swimmer, by Annie Leibovitz
Hugo Hugo Boss
Hermes Birkin Atelier
Valentino Rome Atelier
Atelier New York
Atelier Lemarie
…………….how we sell fashion today and how we show
fashion…………………………………..
…………….story telling
……………visual narrative
……enhancing the message………………
A view to an advertising killing
New marketing tie-ins for 007 include Sony's new flagship smartphone,
the Xperia T, also known as “The Bond Phone' with Skyfall content.
………….presenting the clothes………………………………………………………………………………
…….How do we sell luxury
fashion – catwalk, showroom,
superstore or
boutique?.................
The power of merchandising,
retail story telling……..
LOEWE
ACKERMAN
………………………..and ALWAYS know who the players are………………………
International clients shift in their
view of luxury within a short time
span……………………………………………from
ostentation to
discretion……………………………………………………………….
the nouveaux riches always take
centre stage?..................
Couture clients often refuse to sit
front row…………………………………………advertising
tells stories across the
globe…………………………………………………….Being made
to feel special is a luxury…………………..
Altuzzara
Nicholas Oakwell
From the fashion point of
view …………………knowing who the
creative players
are………………..
Who works where and with
whom……………………………..
the ever changing
landscape...for employment…
…………….retail changes
……………visual narrative
……enhancing the image and
philosophy………………
RETAILING luxury…….
…………….new horizons ……………
new clients …………………………
limited editions………………
Expanding the name without
cheapening it…………
personalities
…………….ethics ……………diverse
cultures
……sustainability………………
Sharon Wauchob
Farm shops in the city – Dulwich and Dalston
Stella McCartney is one of PPR Group’s umbrella of luxury brands.
PPR Group, the French multinational parent behind high-end labels like Gucci, Yves
Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, and Puma, is launching a multi-tiered
sustainability project for its raft of global brands. With an annual budget of €10 million
(about $14.1 million), “PPR Home” is no mere tree-saving side project. Featuring a
“Creative Sustainability Lab” in partnership with Cradle to Cradle, the initiative seeks
to offset the conglomerate’s entire 2010 footprint (an estimated 98,729 tons of
carbon), as well as jump-start new standards in sustainability reporting in its luxury,
sports and lifestyle, and retail sectors
16/01/2012 - Luxury
Green is beautiful
Companies’ sustainability practices are not a
one-shot process. It’s a step by step journey
as PPR brands are showing.In the luxury and
sport & lifestyle sectors, the majority of the
Group’s brands carry their own set of
ecological and ethical projects. These may
take various forms, but all have a common
trait: they remain faithful to the Group’s
aesthetic DNA. At PPR, sustainability takes
form though style and elegance.
…………….re-defining luxury……………
desire fuels new concepts
……ethical luxury- an
oxymoron?
………………
………………the style managers………………………………………….
……………………..Thank You!...................