Perry`s Department Store

2010 Perry’s
Department
Store
Line Development Dana Rae Graham, Tien Le, Tiara Murphy, Sarah Robbe, & Hannah Wray Virginia Commonwealth University Spring 2010 Table of Contents Consumer Profiles ............................................................... Page 2 Market & Trend Report ....................................................... Page 25 Theme Board ....................................................................... Page 54 Design Board ....................................................................... Page 59 Fabric Detail Sheets ............................................................. Page 65 Style Specification Sheets .................................................... Page 73 Size Specification Sheets ..................................................... Page 88 Cost Sheets .......................................................................... Page 98 Works Cited ......................................................................... Page 109 Page 1
Consumer Profiles
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PERRY’S
Consumer Profile Worksheet “A” Stores Median Age According to the Community Source Book of County Demographics, the median age of consumers in downtown Fredericksburg, VA, is 46.1 years, and the median age in Spotsylvania is slightly higher at 46.4 years. From a statistical standpoint, this median age (i.e., the middle values of the age of consumers in the two cities) denotes that the age of half the consumers will be below the median number and half will be above the median number. Since the median age of consumers in both cities that will be shopping at Perry’s “A” stores falls into the “baby boomer” bracket, Perry’s should cater to the needs of this population by providing an inventory to accommodate their lifestyles. This knowledge will be very beneficial for Perry’s “A” stores and will provide a broader perspective on their customer’s desires. Family Income The median family household income in downtown Fredericksburg, according to the Community Source Book of County Demographics, is $41,371 while the median family income in Spotsylvania is much higher at $69,890. Also, it is interesting to note that only 24.3% of the households in downtown Fredericksburg (i.e., 2,228 households) have incomes greater than $75,000. This is significantly lower than the city of Spotsylvania where 45.4% of the households (i.e., 19,634 households) have incomes greater than $75,000. Since Spotsylvania’s customer base which maintains an income greater than $75,000 dollars is 8.8 times larger than Page 3
downtown Fredericksburg’s similar income bracket, Perry’s “A” stores can expect a significantly larger volume of sales based on this particular demographic. Educational Level According to the 2000 Census in the Community Source Book of County Demographics, the educational level of consumers in downtown Fredericksburg with 4+ years of college is 30.5% (i.e., 3, 433 people) while the same educational level in Spotsylvania is somewhat lower at 22.8% (i.e., 12, 919 people). However, the total percentage of people with at least 1 year of college in downtown Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania is approximately the same (i.e., 52.6% in downtown Fredericksburg with 5,921 people and 52.2% in Spotsylvania with 29,577 people). Since both cities have a college‐educated population greater than 50%, the family income level will continue to rise over time. Hence, the average purchasing power of this segment of consumers should continue to grow in the future. This expected trend is compatible with the location and merchandise of Perry’s “A” stores. VALS™ and GeoVALS™ Profile VALS helps identify the reasons for which consumers make their purchases. Primarily, the reasons relate to how the shopper is motivated and the personal resources he or she has available for use. After reviewing the data results for the purchasing of women’s jeans, the “Achiever” is the dominate mindset of this shopper. Achievers focus on making and conquering goals. Their priorities exist within the home and are built around the foundation aspects of their lives: primarily family but also career. Achievers have a more conservative viewpoint and when shopping, value is extremely important. They consider themselves successful and want others to see them as such. Because of their concern for outside opinions, the Achievers strive for Page 4
others to view them as financially stable and thriving. They want to feel included in community events and are very social. Also, Achievers want the best for their children, even if it means stretching their budgets beyond their means. The threat of peer disapproval keeps these people somewhat conservative in nature. They are hesitant to try new things that might raise the eyebrows of others or perhaps call attention to themselves in a negative light. Therefore, this information proves to Perry’s that the people who purchase jeans tend to avoid loud, fashion statements but embrace items that are complimentary to other garments and offer consumer value (Guthrie & Regni, 2006). In analyzing Perry’s “A” stores, GeoVALS may be more helpful since the areas of downtown Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania will yield results specific to their residents. In downtown Fredericksburg, the highest percentage of adults who live there are in the category, “Experiencers.” These people are motivated in their decisions by self‐expression and frequently buy new fashions. They are social people who are not afraid to try new things and visit new places. Experiencers live for today and plan more for the abstract future, as opposed to the reality of tomorrow. Though they may not be seriously detailed about their futures, they know what they want for themselves in general. They like to be en vogue and involved with the latest technology and fashion trends. Although being fashionable is important, they are also not afraid to kick back and appear to be low‐key. Experiencers live for themselves and are active in athletics or outdoor activities. Careers are a priority in that they provide a means of affording the things and the lifestyles they want. This type of shopper would enjoy the designer merchandise found at Perry’s “A” stores because it would satisfy the need for fine clothing that is both fashionable and exudes an air of personal expression. The other location for Perry’s “A” Page 5
store is in Spotsylvania. There the average adult person closely models the VALS results for typical jeans purchasers: Achievers. The adults in Spotsylvania tend to be family and career‐
oriented and require value more so than Experiencers (Guthrie & Regni, 2006). Competitive stores and brands within region (including private‐label brands) In downtown Fredericksburg, Perry’s has a high level of competition to consider with the surrounding area stores. Monkees is a boutique located near Perry’s that carries women’s designer fashions. Some of the designers and brands found there are: Milly, Trina Turk, Tory Burch, Lilly Pulitzer, Juicy Couture, Tibi, Cole Haan, Me Too, Hunter Boots, Dolce Vita, Jack Rogers, Spanx, Hanky Panky, SassyBax, NuBra, Big Buddha, Kenneth Jay Lane, Fornash, Miss Oops, and Footpetals (Historic Fredericksburg, VA., 2010). Also nearby, is a Kohl’s Department store. Perry’s “A” store caters to a similar customer as does Kohl’s and also has the disadvantage of being less well‐known world‐wide because of the fact that Perry’s only operates five chain stores. This could potentially hurt the sales of Perry’s “A” store in downtown Fredericksburg; however, Kohl’s clothing better relates to Perry’s “B” store merchandise. Perry’s “A” stores cater to a clientele who demand garments earlier in the Fashion Cycle. Therefore, perhaps Kohl’s will not provide an excessive amount of competition (Kohl's Illinois, Inc., 2010‐2011). The competition for Perry’s “A” store in Spotsylvania will most likely come from the Spotsylvania Towne Centre, a mall located nearby. There, stores such as Christopher & Banks and Coldwater Creek could potentially detract from the womenswear department at Perry’s. These stores specialize in women’s fashions that encompass the latest trends for a casual lifestyle, while Perry’s “A” stores provide further designer‐looks that are more trend oriented Page 6
(Spotsylvania Towne Centre, 2010). Although Christopher & Banks and Coldwater Creek are potential threats, Perry’s “A” store shopper will likely chose Perry’s due to the designer fashions and Introductory stage garments. Lastly, the Kohl’s brand SONOMA life + style has a line of women’s jeans that may be a threat to a Perry’s store private label for denim. Fortunately, the SONOMA life + style brand does not seem to have the same approach to women’s fashion as Perry’s prospective brand. SONOMA life + style appears less fashionable and more comfort‐based (Kohl's Illinois, Inc., 2010‐2011). Comfort is a factor that will be included in Perry’s private label jeans, but will not be the main feature. Fashion Cycle Emphasis Perry’s “A” stores carry the most fashion forward merchandise of all their stores. Since the locations for these stores are downtown Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania, Perry’s must supply their shoppers with garments that will suit the needs of a savvier dresser. Therefore, “A” stores carry some designer merchandise that is at the Introduction stage of the fashion cycle. Sizes for these designer products are limited, but will typically encompass a variety of styles from which to choose. Perry’s customers who purchase clothing that is still at the Introduction stage do so because they prefer their clothing to have a certain level of exclusivity. The average “A” store shopper is more fashion conscious because of the level of exposure received from living in larger, metropolitan areas, unlike the “B” and “C” store shoppers (Guthrie & Regni, 2006). In addition, Perry’s “A” stores carry a large amount of Late Introduction merchandise for their customers. Although it is important to offer designer merchandise that is in the Early Page 7
Introduction stage, the greatest portion of their sales volume (26.4‐27.3%) is provided by clothing in the Late Introduction stage of the fashion cycle. This is primarily due to Perry’s “A” store shoppers’ desires to wear the latest fashion trends, even though they are not usually the extremely innovative, fashion leaders. They are more comfortable purchasing clothing that is from the Late Introduction stage (Guthrie & Regni, 2006). Buying Behaviors As stated in the Community Source Book of County Demographics, Fashion Clothing is included among the top ten lifestyles ranked by index in downtown Fredericksburg. In contrast with this statistic, Fashion Clothing is not listed in the top ten lifestyles in Spotsylvania. In particular, 21.3% (i.e., 1,953 people) of the consumers in downtown Fredericksburg are interested in Fashion Clothing. The percentage of people with an interest in Fashion Clothing in Spotsylvania is much lower at only 15.6% (i.e., 6,747 people). Cruise ship vacations in Spotsylvania are also ranked among the top ten lifestyles. In Spotsylvania, 35% of people travel and 24% are frequent flyers. This indicates that people in this area are more likely to purchase clothing for cruises and various vacations. Therefore, it would be beneficial for Perry’s “A” stores that are located in Spotsylvania to be stocked with clothing that would accommodate the frequent traveler. The VALS profile shows that in Fredericksburg, VA, at the highest; 18% of adults are Experiencers and 16% are Strivers. As noted in the VALS™ Segment Descriptions of the Perry’s Department Store textbook CD‐ROM, Experiencers are known to be motivated by self‐
expression. They have high resources and appreciate the unconventional ways of life. Also, impulsive and active seeking qualities are among their characteristics. Experiencers spend a Page 8
comparatively large portion of their income on fashion, socializing, and entertainment. As stated earlier, with Fashion Clothing being ranked in the top ten lifestyles index for downtown Fredericksburg, this description is consistent with the buying behaviors of people who live in downtown Fredericksburg. Ranked at the second highest in the VALS profile for Fredericksburg are the Strivers at 16%. The VALS™ Segment Description defines Strivers as people who are motivated by achievement and have low financial resources. They are trendy, fun, and loving. Strivers have a lower discretionary income and also tend to have narrow interests. They favor stylish products that emulate the purchases of people with a greater financial power. Therefore, Perry’s “A” stores should attract the Strivers segment of the population, but the proportion of sales compared to that of the Experiencers is expected to be somewhat lower. Although the interest in fashion is much lower in Spotsylvania than in downtown Fredericksburg, the largest VALS segment of the Spotsylvania population is composed of Achievers. The buying behavior of Achievers demonstrates that this segment of the population prefers to buy premium products that exhibit success to others. Hence, it is expected that the largest number of consumers will come from Achievers. The fact that Fashion Clothing is not included in the top ten lifestyles in Spotsylvania is most likely because the second largest segment of the population is Believers. This portion of consumers reflects a buying behavior that chooses familiar products and established brands rather than higher‐end, fashion forward merchandise that is typical of Perry’s “A” stores products. In summary, since “A” Stores carry higher average purchase prices, the potential for higher volume sales in this classification of stores exists in Spotsylvania rather than downtown Page 9
Fredericksburg because of the higher median household income in Spotsylvania. At the same time, however, Fashion Clothing as a form of buying behavior is rated among the top ten lifestyles ranked by index in downtown Fredericksburg which is a boost for sales in “A” Stores. Since the total number of people with at least 1 year of college in Spotsylvania is 5 times larger than the population in downtown Fredericksburg coupled with the large number of Achievers in Spotsylvania, there is a greater potential for higher volume sales for “A” Stores in Spotsylvania. Based upon the smaller college educated population in downtown Fredericksburg, the volume of “A” store sales should be somewhat smaller than in Spotsylvania. Nevertheless, downtown Fredericksburg still promises to have a successful sales performance due to the high VALS population of Experiencers and Strivers. Based upon this demographic analysis, downtown Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania have a consumer profile that is consistent with the progressive attitude and the financial buying power required of consumers who shop at Perry’s “A” stores. Page 10
PERRY’S
Consumer Profile Worksheet “B” Stores Median Age Based on the “Population by Age and Sex” (2007) report, Stafford County’s median age of the male population is 32 and the median age of the female population is 34. In Prince William County, where Dale City is located, the average age of the male population is 31 and the female population is 33 (p. 6‐104). From an objective point of view, these median ages are very close to the average age of purchasers that Perry’s “B” stores expect to shop within their stores. Since this is a relatively young population, the Perry’s “B” stores should carry inventories that can provide a wide variety of selection for this age group. Younger populations of shoppers tend to adjust their style needs quickly based on the changing trends of the Fashion Industry. With this in mind, Perry’s stores in Stafford County and Dale City must manage their inventories according to this data; it is advisable that they keep a wide selection of merchandise available at all times and constantly update departments with the latest styles. Family Income The median family income in Stafford County in the year 2000 was $89,300 (Videtic and Steele, 2009, p.14). The median family income in Spotsylvania (which is the demographic reference used for Dale City) was $62,422 (Videtic & Steele, 2009, p. 11). The Perry’s “B” store located in Dale City should carry some high‐quality and high‐end styles, but should avoid carrying expensive items; the people who shop at this Perry’s location earn a relatively lower income when compared with Perry’s “A” stores shoppers. Nevertheless, they still appreciate Page 11
fashion, but can only afford the more moderately priced items. On the other hand, the population of Stafford County has more disposable income to spend on clothing. With the median family income at $89,300, Perry’s “B” store in Stafford should carry a larger selection of high‐end clothing than the “B” store in Dale City. Educational Level According to the “Market Profile” (2008), in Prince William County (Dale City), the people who have a college level education (1‐4 years) make up 63.9% of the total population. With such a high education level, the people in Dale City are more likely to shop more and demand better quality clothing that can be worn for their upper‐level jobs. In addition to the high percentage of adults with a college education, 75.1% of the total population in Dale City is earning $50,000 or more per year. In Stafford, 60.6% of the population has at least one year of college education, and 75.7% of the population has an income of $50,000 or higher. Overall, both Stafford and Dale City have a relatively high percentage of well‐educated adults who comprise their populations (over 60%). Consequently, the average family income will gradually increase, along with the amount of buying power from these individuals. This trend should be considered by Perry’s when planning for future growth. As the college educated adults increase their number of years of experience in the workforce, so should their income increase accordingly. Perry’s “B” stores must meet the needs of this cohort by providing adequate merchandise for working professionals. VALS™ and GeoVALS™ Profile To define the customer who shops in the Perry’s Department stores, Perry’s uses VALS. VALS segments the English speaking population over the age of 18 into one of eight possible Page 12
categories. Each category inhabits distinct lifestyle, buying, and personality characteristics that set it apart from the other categories. The Achievers are the largest demographic for both the Dale City and Stafford “B” stores. In Stafford, 21.5% of the population is Achievers, which is the largest segment in that area. They consider themselves successful and want others to see them as such. Because of their concern for outside opinions, the Achievers strive for others to view them as financially stable and thriving. They want to feel included in community events and are very social. In addition, family is very important to them. They want the best for their children, even if that means stretching beyond their means financially. The threat of peer disapproval keeps these people somewhat conservative in nature. They are hesitant to try new things that might raise the eyebrows of others, or call attention to themselves in a negative light (SRDS, 2008). According to the SRDS: The Lifestyle Market Analyst of 2008, Prince William County, the location of Dale City, is 51.3% White, 19.8% Hispanic, and 18% Black. Thirty‐six point five percent (36.5%) of the households in Prince William County make at least six‐figures annually. Twenty point five percent (20.5%) make between $50,000 and $74,999. The majority of the households who are making over $75,000 are between the ages of 45 and 64. Shopping by catalogue and mail is popular among Prince William County residents, as 45.8% or 58,227 households report shopping this way. Thirty‐six point two percent (36.2%) of households travel within the USA, and 33.5% are frequent flyers. Twenty‐two point four percent (22.4%) report enjoying gourmet cooking and 21.9% enjoy wine. About half (51.8%) of the households donate to charitable causes. This strengthens the likelihood of a sales increase, should Perry’s take up a social awareness campaign or partner with a charitable cause. Forty‐two point five percent Page 13
(42.5%) of households report taking part in physical fitness and exercise. Twenty‐six point one percent (26.1%) care about dieting and natural foods. Active wear should be highlighted and promoted in response to this data. Thirty‐seven point four percent (37.4%) of households watch TV at home; similarly, many families enjoy watching movies at home, as 76.3% own a DVD player (SRDS, 2008). After considering all of the information, it is apparent that many people partake in activities within their own homes in Prince William County; the Perry’s “B” store should offer accessories like fleece blankets or an array of loungewear such as bathrobes. Items like these will entice a customer who likes to relax at home (SRDS, 2008). In Stafford County, a similar racial demographic exists in comparison to Prince William County. The majority of the population is White, 70.9%, and the Black population is only 16.3%. Hispanics make up only 7.1% of the population. The majority of households make a six figure annual salary, and 20% make between $50,000 and $74,000, as well as 20% who make between $75,000 and $99,999. The majority of the households who are making over $75,000 are between the ages of 45 and 64. The households with children at home that are under the age of 12 is 15.6%, and the households with children at home who are between the ages of 13 and 18 is 16.7%. Almost half, 49.2%, of the households in Stafford County order merchandise through catalogues and mail. Thirty‐six percent (36%) of households in Stafford County travel within the USA, and 31% are frequent flyers. Forty‐two point three percent (42.3%) exercise and partake in physical fitness. Twenty‐six point two percent (26.2%) are concerned with weight control and dieting. Thirty‐seven percent (37%) of households watch sports on TV and 77.9% own a DVD player, which is similar to the situation in Prince William County (SRDS, 2008). Page 14
Competitive stores and brands within region (including private‐label brands) The Potomac Mills shopping center is only 2.4 miles away from the Perry’s “B” store in Dale City. With an approximate eight minute driving distance for customers, stores in this center can be considered as competitors for Perry’s. Within Potomac Mills, there is a JC Penney Outlet, Gap Outlet, and Forever 21. These stores offer a wide selection of women’s fashion clothing at affordable prices. The prices at these outlets are the primary advantage used to attract customers, thus impacting the sales of Perry’s “B” stores in this area. According to Fetterman (2006), JC Penney’s well‐defined target market is “women whose household income is $35,000 to $80,000, and women with “too little time, too little money, and two little kids.” They also provide a large clothing selection for men and children who encompass the middle class population. This is a threat to Perry’s since both stores focus on similar market segments. Within JC Penney, there are many recognizable private labels, such as a.n.a. and Solitude. Even though these private labels are new, they are potential competitors to Perry’s “B” stores. The brand a.n.a. focuses on women shoppers between 30 and 50 years of age; its price range for a pair of jeans is $40 to $48. Solitude targets men from the age of 20 to 50 years old and consists of a “relaxed and casual lifestyle” (Nolan, 2006). These brands will provide competition for Perry’s “B” stores since the private label Perry’s is creating will most likely focus on the same age groups. Forever 21, another rival for Perry’s, has a very broad target market. Their primary customers are Juniors and younger women. According to the article “Forever 21 Opens Flagship Store” (2010), the company’s senior marketing manager, Linda Change, said, “[we are] Page 15
able to reach the whole family but at the same time, bringing trends on a daily basis with fresh new merchandise.” The company has been expanding, and with their inexpensive and stylish clothing selection, Perry’s should be careful to choose clothing lines that also cater to youthful, stylish women. The Gap is another retail clothing chain that is famous for its fast and cheap fashions. With a very clear target market and a reputation for modern fashion, the Gap is one of the largest retailers in the area. According to Love Kent, an analyst for UBS Investment Research, Gap is “mainly attracting shoppers in their 30s and 40s” (qtd. in Schneiderman, 2006). In particular, Gap will not greatly impact Perry’s women’s department but in general, it can hurt the sale of Perry’s “B” stores’ merchandise as a whole. Lastly, another big competitor for Perry’s “B” stores is Kohl’s, located in Woodbridge; it is within an approximate ten‐minute driving distance. Kohl’s, the giant department store chain, may be another threat to the Perry’s store private label for denim. According to Dalley (2006), Kohl’s is a family‐oriented department store that is quite competent at choosing which clothing lines they carry; they have been successful in providing their customers with exactly what they want. More importantly, their target market is the middle class population, the same target market as Perry’s. On another note, Daniel Genter, the Chief Investment Officer, commented that Kohl’s is very adept at predicting which clothing lines will be popular. Moreover, they have many rotations and can move inventory in and out very quickly, thus better fitting the ever‐
changing fashion world (Dalley, 2006). Another consideration is Kohl's expansion of its private label SONOMA life + style brand which continues to emphasize the central role of national brands (Duff, 2002). The Kohl’s brand SONOMA life + style is a line of women’s jeans that may Page 16
be a threat to the Perry’s store private label for denim. Fortunately, the SONOMA life + style brand does not seem to have the same approach to women’s fashion as Perry’s prospective brand. SONOMA life + style appears less fashionable and more comfort‐based (Kohl's Illinois, Inc., 2010‐2011). Comfort is a factor that will be included in Perry’s private label jeans, but will not be the main feature. Overall, all four of the competitors above will provide competition for Perry’s and their private label addition. First, they have a known reputation, and they are well‐known nation‐
wide; Perry’s is a Virginia department store with only five branches. Secondly, they are all located in or near the Potomac Mills shopping center, which makes it very convenient for customers to have a wide range in the selection of merchandise from stores that are in close proximity. With many potential rivals within a ten minute driving distance or less, Perry’s “B” stores have to be very careful in selecting the clothing and styles they offer in order to be able to compete and grow in the area. Fashion Cycle Emphasis According to the Perry’s Department Store textbook CD‐ROM, the “B” stores have less sales volume and inventory in comparison to the A stores in Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania. With the primary segment as the Achiever, the trends within the “B” store fall into the “Acceptance” stage of the fashion cycle. This is the phase where the consumer has accepted a trend and can find it easily in various stores and retailers. The customer is seeking trendy items that others are wearing, and are not as concerned with being the first to introduce a new fad. The merchandise within the “B” store represents fashion that is popular and includes knock‐off Page 17
designer clothing from runways that have been modified to fit the lifestyle and fashion sense of the everyday woman. Buying Behaviors The achievers have an above‐average retail buying behavior classification according to VALS and Mediamark Research & Intelligence, LLC, 2007 Doublebase. Because of their brand‐
name shopping habit, the Achievers live beyond their means. Their budget is very tight because of their tendency to splurge on wants as opposed to consuming mostly needs. They feel an entitlement toward certain things that may cost more than they are really able to spend, such as private school education and costly clothing from department stores. The Achievers want to express their own opinions of themselves through the clothing they wear. Since they think of themselves as successful and entitled people, they choose to look that way as well. They will shop at Perry’s because the name brand clothing is not entirely out of their price range, as would be the case with Nordstrom or Saks Fifth Avenue. As Perry’s is a step up from discount retailers and stores such as Target and Old Navy, it is enticing to the Achievers to come into Perry’s. There, they will be able to purchase items that they cannot find at other lower‐priced retailers, and the higher ticket price will help them feel as though they are buying something that will show‐off their socioeconomic status. Page 18
PERRY’S
Consumer Profile Worksheet “C” Store Median Age According to the 2008 Community Sourcebook of County Demographics, the median age of the residents of Caroline County is 40.3 years old. Further statistics show that the top age bracket of Caroline County residents consists of adults, age 45 to 64, at 29% of the area’s population. This is followed closely by adults, age 25 to 44, at 26.7%. These statistics show that Perry’s Department Stores must cater to both Baby Boomers and Generation X to maximize sales, as these segments of the Caroline County population are very close in size. It is also important to note, however, that the young segment of consumers (ages 25 to 44) may generally find more importance in following fashion trends and may travel outside of the area to places such as downtown Fredericksburg, Spotsylvania Town Center, Washington, and Richmond to find trendier items.
Family Income According to the 2008 Community Sourcebook of County Demographics, Caroline County’s median household income is $48,841. This figure is expected to increase slightly each year, reaching an estimate $56,037 by 2013. This median family income is considerably lower than most of the areas surrounding the other Perry’s Department store locations and directly correlates with the lower sales volume of Perry’s “C” store. Page 19
Educational Level According to the United Census Bureau’s 2000 Census, only 12.1% of Caroline County residents age 25 or older have obtained a bachelor’s degree or higher. The census information also states that only 71.3% of residents in this same age bracket have completed their high school education. These low educational levels directly correlate with lower family incomes and the Striver and Maker VALS segmentations in which many Caroline County residents fall under. VALS™ and GeoVALS™ Profile According to SRI Consulting Business Intelligence, the top four VALS segmentations for Caroline County are Strivers ‐18%, Experiencers‐17%, Achievers‐17%, and Makers‐17% (Steele, 2009). Strivers are classified as motivated by achievement with low resources. Strivers are trendy and fun‐loving. Because they are motivated by achievement, strivers are concerned about the opinions of others and want to meet their approval. Money defines success to these individuals, but they do not have enough of it to meet their desires. They have little discretionary income and favor discounted, affordable, yet stylish products that emulate the purchases of those with higher incomes. However, strivers are active consumers; they use shopping as both a social activity and the opportunity to show their peers their ability to spend. They are as impulsive as their bank accounts will allow. Strivers often have narrow interests. They see themselves as having a job rather than a career, and their lack of skills and focus prevents them from moving up the employment ladder. Page 20
Achievers are classified as motivated by achievement, with high resources. Achievers have goal‐oriented lifestyles that center on the family and career. Their social lives are structured around family, their place of worship, and work. Achievers live conventional lifestyles, are politically conservative, and follow the status quo. Achievers typically avoid situations that result in a high degree of change, favoring predictability and stability. Image is important to Achievers; they favor premium products that come with prestige, to prove success to their peers. Since they lead busy lives, filled with work, family, and worship, they are often interested in places or products that will save them time. Experiencers are classified as motivated by self‐expression, with high resources. They are young, fervent, and impulsive consumers, quickly enthusiastic about new places, products, and ideas but just as quick to wane. Experiencers appreciate the unconventional; they are active and impulsive, seeking stimulation from new experiences, ideas, and purchases. They seek variety and savor the new and risky; therefore, their energy finds a release in exercise, sports, the outdoors and social activities. As avid consumers, they spend a high amount of their income on fashion, socializing, and entertainment. Their purchases are reflective of their focus on appearance and having the newest, trendiest items. Makers are classified as motivated by self‐expression, with low resources. Unlike Experiencers, Makers express themselves and experience the world in a more hands‐on fashion. Makers build their own homes, raise children, fix cars, grow their own vegetables, and more. They have enough skill and energy to carry out their projects successfully, valuing practicality and self‐sufficiency. Makers live within the traditional values of family, practical work, and physical recreation, having little interest in what lies outside this lifestyle. Makers Page 21
purchase basic products, preferring value to luxury. They are unimpressed by material possessions other than those with a functional and practical purpose. They are suspicious of new ideas and large institutions, and are respectful of government authority and organized labor. This lifestyle segmentation is remarkably evidenced by Caroline County’s rural atmosphere. Competitive stores and brands within region (including private‐label brands) As an extremely rural community, there are no direct apparel competitors for Perry’s in the immediate surrounding area. To shop for apparel items, Caroline County residents must travel at least 15 miles to reach the Fredericksburg area. Since Caroline County residents are more price‐sensitive than the consumers of Perry’s “A” and “B” stores, competitors include Wal‐Mart, Target, and department stores such as JC Penney. As a one‐stop shop, Wal‐Mart is a main competitor for Perry’s “C” store because these consumers look for ways to save time and money. Womenswear denim brands at Wal‐Mart include their successful Faded Glory private label, as well as the Signature by Levi Strauss & Co. for the consumers shopping for a cheaper version of the popular Levi’s label. These brands provide basic denim fits and colors at a low price point, which appeals to the Makers consumer segment (Wal‐Mart Stores, Inc., 2010). Target is another main competitor for Perry’s “C” store. As another one‐stop shop, Target will allow consumers to save time and money; however, the retailer is also known for their on‐trend apparel and discount designer collaborations. Their Mossimo and Converse One Star denim collections provide the Strivers consumer segment with trendy, “designer” Page 22
merchandise at a price that fits their budget, while the Merona denim brand also appeals to older consumers who are interested in value and fit over following trends (Target.com, 2010). JC Penney is a department store offering merchandise similar to Perry’s “C” store. JC Penney offers a large selection of women’s jeans in a variety of fits and washes. Their denim brands include Levi’s, Lee, their private label St. John’s Bay, and more. Each of these brands has seen much success in catering to the average woman, focusing on fits that allow women to look and feel better about their bodies, while maintaining a very affordable price point. These established brands are significant threats for Perry’s brand new private label (JCP Media L.P., 2010). Fashion Cycle Emphasis Perry’s “C” Stores have the lowest sales volume and the customers who shop here are the most price‐sensitive. “C” store customers are the least progressive with regard to fashion attitude; concerned with value over style, they enter the fashion cycle at the culmination stage, where similar products are widely available and at declining cost to the consumer. Knockoffs flourish at this stage and similar styles are available in discount stores (Guthrie & Regni, 2006). Buying Behaviors As stated in the Community Sourcebook for County Demographics, the spending potential index for apparel and services is 63, well below the national average index set at 100, and the Virginia state index of 93. The majority of Caroline County consumers fall into the Lifestyle Market Analyst segments of 35 to 44 years old and 45 to 64 years old with an income of $30,000‐$49,999. In each of these market segments, Fashion Clothing does not even come close to the top ten lifestyles. Instead, consumers in these segments are listed as interested in Page 23
lifestyles such as NASCAR, automotive work, hunting/shooting, and science fiction. Since the VALS segments of Caroline County are largely composed of Makers and Strivers, these lifestyle choices match the attitudes and demographics of these consumer segments. While there are also a considerable number of Achievers and Experiencers in the Caroline County area, it is more likely that these two consumer segments will travel outside of the area to purchase the fashion clothing and products they desire. Since Fredericksburg and the surrounding area is considered a “bedroom community,” it is likely that the residents who make up these segments work and shop outside the region, most likely in the Washington, D.C. area (Guthrie & Regni, 2006). Shopping in a more metropolitan area or even at the Perry’s “A” stores in downtown Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania, will allow Achievers to purchase the more premium products they shop for and allow Experiencers to find on‐trend merchandise. Page 24
Market & Trend Report
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PERRY’S
Market & Trend Report Part I Scope and Size of Segment The scope and size of the women’s market segment within the denim class is extremely large. As baby boomers make up the greatest segment of the population, denim is purchased more by women of this age than any other age segment. Denim sales for 2008 are quoted at $8.811 million and are projected to be $9.765 million for 2010 (Mintel, 2008). Within the products and service segmentation of women’s clothing stores in the United States, ladies’ jeans, pants, shorts, and skirts make up the second largest segment of purchased products. Tops, a classification which includes T‐shirts, knits, wovens, blouses, and sweaters, comprise the largest percentage of purchased goods at 32% (IBISWorld, Initials, 2010, January 11). Associates at IBISWorld mention that with the growing trend of a more casual office environment, purchases of pants and jeans are being made at the expense of slacks and dresses. In fact, 81% of women with children, according to associates at Mintel, “prefer wearing jeans to casual slacks” (Mintel, 2008). Within the jeans segment, a trend known as “premium denim” has become very popular in recent years. Premium denim relates to brand name denim with a high price tag. The average price of a premium denim pair of jeans was $93.00 in 2006, according to WWD and Mintel associates (Mintel, 2008). This trend is expected to continue as brands become savvier with fit, washes, style, and technology. Page 26
Age Range In 2010, more people are wearing denim than ever before. It is “no longer the domain only of trend‐minded singles.” The trendy singles who used to perpetuate the idea of a denim consumer by beginning to wear “dungarees” to school in the 50’s and 60’s are still wearing them today. The baby boomers are still purchasing denim even as they reach their 60s. They are the second largest market segment (34%) that purchase clothing and are defined as people ages 44 to 62. Generation X, defined as people ages 29 to 43, made up 39% of the total clothing sales at the 2007 year end (IBISWorld, Initials, 2010, January 11). Mintel reports that women with children under the age of 18 “own eight pairs of jeans on average, one more than those without children” (Mintel, 2008). Baby Boomers are less concerned with status as are other segments, like Generation X, and focus on comfort. They prefer jeans that are comfortable and considered to be of good quality over jeans with a high price tag and a brand name. Size Range In the United States, the sizes for women’s tops generally include extra small (XS), small (S), medium (M), large (L), and extra large (XL). In the denim classification, jeans range from sizes 0 to 16. The sizes, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 are most commonly found in department stores as retailers often omit sizes 0 and 14 because of the narrow market that seeks those particular sizes (the same holds true for size XS in tops). However, a trend in carrying plus size jeans (which includes sizes 12 and above) is increasing; therefore, the largest size carried by Perry’s department store will be 16. In conclusion, the private label collection at Perry’s will feature jeans sizes 2‐16 and T‐shirts sizes S‐XL. Page 27
Unique Characteristics of Segment Since Perry’s has chosen to build its own private label denim line for their women’s department (misses), one of the benefits to this decision is that the purchaser is also the wearer. In other fashion categories such as men’s and children’s, the person physically buying the product is sometimes not the end consumer. Knowing the fact that women tend to purchase their own jeans provides Perry’s with a stronger marketing focus and greater advertising potential. Women tend to read labels, but only to verify that the clothing article they are considering purchasing is not dry‐clean‐only. Therefore, most women do not even consider reading the label within a pair of jeans. When it comes to purchasing jeans, fit and price outweigh most all other considerations. If the main criteria are met, then very few other factors will weigh into the equation. With current economic conditions having an effect on the retail industry, most women are shopping less often and purchasing fewer items; however, when Cotton Inc. polled women to see what items they were most likely to purchase regardless of the economy, ranked number one was “Shirts/Tops” and number two was “Jeans.” These clothing categories even outranked the more practical items such as underwear and socks. Eighty‐five percent (85%) of women said their purchases would be structured toward replacing existing items in their wardrobes and 15% said they would be purchasing to obtain the newest fashion trends (Cotton, Inc., 2009, August 13). It is important for Perry’s to know how much their customer is willing to spend on denim jeans. “Americans spend over 95% of their income after taxes,” (Myers, 2009). Similarly, Page 28
“Retail spending consists of about 40% of total personal consumption expenditures,” (ProQuest, LLC., 2006, January 9). Perry’s can infer that retail spending is a large portion of the division of disposable income, but they must also consider that jeans purchases are made less‐
often than other retail purchases. The median household income for “A” stores consumers is $41,371‐$69,890, the median household income for “B” stores consumers is $62,422‐$89,300, and the median household income for “C” store consumers is $48,841 (see Consumer Profiles Report). Only a moderate to small portion of the disposable income of a Perry’s shopper is likely to be spent on jeans. The need to purchase sustainable/eco friendly jeans does not exceed women’s greater need for fit and comfort. In fact, most women expect their jeans to have cotton as a main ingredient and feel that any purchasing of cotton apparel is a contribution towards environmental support, based on the findings of a Cotton Incorporated Environment Survey. (Cotton, Inc., 2009, August 27). Therefore, the concept of women reading denim labels for eco‐
friendly properties is not extremely likely, since it is generally an assumed attribute of cotton jeans. Wholesale and Retail Price Points Women’s Jeans at Retail: Kohls’ department store, one of the leading retail department stores nation‐wide, offers women’s jeans that range in price from $29.99‐$50.00, not including sale or clearance items (Kohl's Illinois, Inc., 2010‐2011). On a higher scale, Macy’s department store sells jeans priced from $40.00‐$165.00 retail (Macy’s.com, Inc., 2009). At JC Penney, the women’s jeans are Page 29
typically between $27.99‐$58.00, not considering sale prices and clearance items (JCP Media L.P., 2010). Women’s Jeans at Wholesale: Since the typical retail mark‐up is approximately 60%, this figure can be used to determine the wholesale price of the above department stores’ jeans: Kohl’s jeans are $11.99‐
$20.00, Macy’s jeans are $16.00‐$66.00, and JC Penney’s jeans are $11.20‐$23.20 at wholesale prices. Therefore, Perry’s department store needs to evaluate the other department stores and base the cost of manufacturing their jeans on the wholesale price that most similarly relates to their merchandise. For example, if Perry’s plans to retail their private label denim at $49.99, then the manufacturing costs should not exceed $19.99 if they choose to use a recommended 60% mark‐up. Women’s T‐shirts at Retail: Kohl’s T‐shirts, including both long‐sleeve and short‐sleeve styles, typically retail anywhere from $16.00‐$42.00 (Kohl's Illinois, Inc., 2010‐2011). Macy’s T‐shirt prices, not including sale or clearance mark‐downs, are approximately $24.00‐$88.00 for all available sleeve‐lengths (Macy’s.com, Inc., 2009). Lastly, JC Penney sells T‐shirts priced $14.00‐$52.00 on average (JCP Media L.P., 2010). Women’s T‐shirts at Wholesale: If a 60% mark‐up has been used to determine the retail prices of the T‐shirts at the above three stores, then the approximate wholesale prices would be as follows: Kohl’s $6.40‐
$16.80, Macy’s $9.60‐$35.20, and JC Penney’s $5.60‐$20.80 (wholesale prices). Page 30
Expectations of this Segment (Quality, Fabrication, etc.) When shopping for women’s jeans, quality and fit are a must. Jeans have become a staple of the average woman’s wardrobe; time and effort are required when shopping for replacements. Women tend to try‐on numerous pairs at multiple stores before finding the jeans that are right for them. The extra energy involved in shopping for women’s jeans is a small price to pay when the perfect pair is finally discovered. For this reason, women generally expect their jeans to last through many seasons of use. Few other garments in the average person’s closet are replaced as infrequently as jeans (Tucker, 2008, June 30). Since jeans are one of the most difficult clothing articles of which to achieve appropriate fit and desired appearance, other considerations, such as the use of a sustainable fabric, tend to be less important to the wearer’s decision‐making process. Women typically have the hardest time in finding well‐fitting jeans than do the other categories of denim wearers; therefore, they are likely not to forego a pair of jeans based on its lack of sustainable fabric usage. Similarly, labels and branding do not factor into the ultimate purchasing decision of women’s jeans. Statistically speaking, if women appear to be brand loyal, this is mainly due to the ease of making future denim purchases based on the brand of well‐liked jeans that they already own (Michaelidou, 2009). “Women say that they love cotton for many reasons, citing that it is comfortable (86%), soft and natural (82%), good quality (82%) and a good value (77%),” (Cotton, Inc., 2009, August 27). Most jeans contain a high percentage of cotton. Women tend to be more partial toward jeans with higher cotton content. Nevertheless, a certain amount of spandex, lycra, or polyester can help denim be more form‐fitting and shape retentive (Kadolph, 2007). Page 31
Key Brands and Labels Premium Denim The brand 7 For All Mankind began the premium denim fad when they introduced a $200.00 pair of jeans. VF Corporation, which now owns 7 For All Mankind, was able to double their Q4 profits in 2007 after acquiring the label. Moderate Denim Another successful denim brand is Levi Strauss and Company. In fact, it is the most successful jean brand in regards to sales, with VF Corporation following closely in second place. Liz Claiborne is another name brand that recently, like VF Corporation, acquired denim brands that target younger, trendier customers who are willing to pay higher denim prices. Liz Claiborne expects these acquisitions to boost their annual sales to $3 billion by 2010. Polo Ralph Lauren has also done well in premium denim sales partly because jeans are something they have always manufactured and for which they are well known. Most like Perry’s Denim Private Label The women’s denim segment is notorious for the “The Mom Jean” which is the high waisted, straight legged, and un‐forgiving silhouette that most laid to rest in the 90s. In recent times, women shopping for denim have had few options for trendy jeans other than the juniors department. Women were predominantly seen wearing what appears to be leftovers from the Seinfeld era. However, all of this changed with the emergence of the brand “Not Your Daughter’s Jeans.” NYDJ entered the competition among premium denim brands and offered women a jean to love. NYDJ has patented “tuck and lift” technology to tuck away the tummy and lift the rear, two areas women have been trying to perfect for years. NYDJ targets women Page 32
who “[are] a little wiser, a little more confident, and let’s face it ‐ sexier than ever” as stated on their website. “You’re not a teenager anymore. You’ve been there, and now you’re past it, beyond it, and now you’re happy to be exactly where and who you are. You wouldn’t trade places with your daughter and you wouldn’t trade clothes with her either,” (Grotta, 2008). NYDJ is a miracle to those who want their “imperfections” and “flaws” shaped‐up to perfection in denim. According to California Apparel and News, the brand has been a top‐seller at Nordstrom, a retailer that carries various premium denim brands. This occurred after NYDJ claimed that their TummyTuck patented technology makes the wearer appear to be a whole size smaller. The website for the company features a section with personal testimonials dubbed “Your Stories.” Video clips and comments from women boasting great reviews of the jeans play in a slideshow motion allowing you to scroll back and forth among them. “At 52 years old, it takes a lot to get me excited about a pair of jeans,” writes Karen M. “Once you buy a pair, you never wear anything else,” Dorothy K. says. Chris H., who reports having to deal with a behind that often appears flat, tells consumers, “The first time I put on my new jeans, I really felt like it was way too good to be true. They make my stomach flat while making me look like I have a little bit of a butt” (Grotta, 2008). California Apparel and News interviewed the founders of NYDJ. The President and her sister, the Vice President, came up with the idea to market the “forgotten woman,” who was not in her teens or twenties, after being fed up with the previous denim situation. “Our name came from the fact you had to wear jeans so low that you needed a bikini wax,” Lisa Rudes‐
Sandel told CA&N. Her father, the CEO of the company boasts, “We have close to 90,000 letters ‘You are a blessing and I finally feel comfortable.’” After hearing these reviews, it comes as no Page 33
surprise how the company had a 25% increase in sales from 2007 to 2008 (Grotta, 2008). Even in hard economic times, women are willing to pay for fit. Lifestyle of the Customer According to the research and analysis of Perry’s customers at A, B, and C stores, the various needs, desires, motivations, and personalities of the shoppers are differential between store categories. It is crucial to the success of a private label to best meet the varying needs of the general consumer; in this particular case, Perry’s has chosen to direct their focus towards womenswear. Although the women who shop at Perry’s stores have differing needs, many points remain similar among the women shoppers of A, B, and C stores. First and foremost, these women demand jeans that fit well. Regardless of age, income, or education, a flattering and comfortable fit is an imperative factor in whether or not a pair of jeans is purchased. Even though some women may be purchasing jeans to wear for labor‐intensive activities, such as the Caroline County consumer, others such as the Fredericksburg shopper may simply be buying jeans to impress their neighbors at the next art gallery show. However, regardless of the consumer group, denim requirements are practically universal (Guthrie & Regni, 2006). Women demand jeans that work in all aspects of their busy lives. From motherhood to corporate, grocery store to date night, women’s jeans must easily transition from casual to chic. Most women expect more from their jeans than from any other garment in their wardrobe. The right pair of jeans boosts self‐confidence and can be adapted to almost any lifestyle activity. Modern women lead lives that are anything but simplistic; thankfully, jeans offer a level of versatility that is essential to fulfilling the hectic demands of daily life (Shih, 2009, November 9). Page 34
Part II Sales Trends in the Jeans Market Despite the current economic woes, denim has remained strong throughout the recession. According to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor survey, the average woman has eight pairs of jeans in her closet. Denim is the must‐have item, dressed up or down; a new pair of jeans is the cheapest and easiest way to update a wardrobe. Denim remains a strong category because people live in them – the average woman in the age category 25‐55 wears jeans four days a week. Forty‐eight percent (48%) of women say that they purchased the same number of jeans in the last 12 months as in the previous year, with 20% stating they have purchased more (Cotton, Inc., 2010, February 11). The denim industry met one of the most exigent retail situations in decades and emerged a winner. While the sportswear market as a whole saw declines last year, women’s jean sales in the United States rose 4.6% and sales of men’s jeans remained steady (Centero, 2009, November 11). According to the NPD Group, Inc./Consumer Tracking Service, women’s denim is an $8.4 billion business. In the United States, denim dollar volume sales for the 12 months ending in November 2009 totaled $16.8 billion, up 3.6% from the same period one year prior (Cotton, Inc., 2010 February 11). Despite a failing housing market, rising gas prices, and increased unemployment slowing the market, consumer surveys and a boastful premium denim segment prove that jeans remain essential to U.S. consumers (Mintel, 2008). Joe’s Jeans, a premium denim brand, saw sales increase 16.4 percent in the third quarter of 2009, thanks to a 13% increase in the brand’s domestic women’s business (Tucker, 2009, October19). True Religion also saw increases in Page 35
denim sales, as they improved 3.8% for a total of $82.4 million (Tucker, 2009, November 4). Although this deals with the higher end of the market, women spend about $35 on average for a pair of jeans. Additionally, 75% of women buy denim at least once a year, and 41% purchase new jeans every six months or less (Cotton, Inc., 2010 February 11). Cotton incorporated Lifestyle Monitor data shows that the top five retail venues for women to purchase denim are as follows: mass merchants (24%), chain stores (20%), specialty stores (19%), department stores (12%), and off price stores (11%) (Cotton Inc., 2009, December 3). Influences for Desire to Buy Product Women are investing more in jeans because they have evolved to become the single object in their wardrobe that easily transfers from casual to formal. Women now choose specific jeans for weekend wear, at the workplace, and for a night out. Denim manufacturers are responding to this need with jeans that cater to all of these dimensions in the modern woman’s life in a multitude of choices in both fit and design elements (Mintel, 2008). Fit is the primary concern for 55% of women when it comes to purchasing a new pair of jeans, according to the Lifestyle Monitor. Other top considerations include style (20%), price (13%) and brand name (4%) as the most important features for determining a denim purchase (Cotton, Inc., 2009, December 3). Manufacturers have become aware of women who have grown frustrated with sizes that do not fit and compliment their shape. Seventy percent of women in Mintel’s December 2007 survey answered that it is very difficult to find a pair of jeans that fit well. Jeans have traditionally suited a slim physique, which has driven women away in favor of looser‐fitting alternatives. However, as premium denim has become more mainstream and Page 36
even acceptable as both dress wear and in the workplace, female consumers are demanding that manufacturers create jeans that complement women with curves. Thanks to the introduction of spandex, or Lycra, women’s jeans have become a status symbol for dressing up or down. As Jennifer Lopez, Queen Latifah, and Beyonce continue to establish a curvier aesthetic in mainstream media, denim retailers and manufacturers will continue to create and market jeans for these target consumers (Mintel, 2008). Obesity trends and motherhood are leading reasons why both boutique and mass‐
market manufacturers have introduced brands that complement a curvy woman while at the same time adhering to current fashion trends in cut, wash, trims, and findings. Denim manufacturers have launched specialty jeans that offer a more flexible fit in the hip and thigh, without the stigma of plus‐size brands. This allows female consumers to remain connected to current trends, while finding a fit for their individual body shape (Mintel, 2008). Examples of recent specialty brands created for this consumer include: Lane Bryant’s Right Fit jeans, with three categories based on individual body shape; Levi’s Perfectly Slimming 512, for the cost‐
conscious consumer; and Not Your Daughter’s Jeans’ Tummy Tuck jeans, premium denim with a slimming look. As jeans take on new fits and styles, fashionable denim is no longer exclusive to young, trendy singles. Today’s mothers, particularly those of Generation X and Y, own more denim and wear it more often than women who do not have children, according to a 2007 Women’s Wear Daily (Mintel, 2008). The choice of denim is perfect for young mothers because it is durable, easy to care for, and available at every price point. Also significant for today’s mothers is an overwhelming concern for style and a desire to find jeans that maintain their sexuality. Today’s Page 37
mothers are seeking fashionable denim options; they are more likely to seek out jeans that would be common in their daughters’ closets and not those worn by their mothers. Women, as illustrated by the characters on the television show Desperate Housewives and coupled with phrases such as “40 is the new 30,” seek out styles that do not express a certain age (Mintel, 2008). While fit is the primary concern for women when purchasing jeans, marketing strategies, such as product placement and celebrity endorsements, continue to influence and motivate women’s decisions to buy particular brands. Female consumers often seek out the particular clothing worn by specific characters on television shows such as Desperate Housewives or Grey’s Anatomy. Levi’s 501 brand was also the centerpiece of a January 2008 episode of Project Runway. On an episode of The Office, when characters are finally allowed to wear jeans to work for Casual Friday, Steve Carrell delivers the line “I love my new Levi’s” (Mintel, 2008). Apparel brands maintain their cultural bearing through images of celebrities wearing their product on television, in print, and in the online media. Hollywood stars, musicians, athletes and socialites have replaced anonymous models to capture the market’s attention and create an instant buzz concerning a specific brand. Without celebrity endorsements, many products would otherwise receive little recognition in such a competitive market. This is especially true of denim, which typically fills less ad space. Denim brands rely on celebrities to raise their profile and aggressively pursue stars to lend their name to their product through advertising and endorsement deals (Mintel, 2008). Page 38
According to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor, there is still a new opportunity to encourage consumers to buy more denim. Sixty percent of women say they have an office dress code that allows them to wear denim to work; yet only 51% of this segment takes advantage of the opportunity. Brands offering denim in business‐appropriate styles can foster further appreciation for their jeans as women are given the option to select both comfort and career wear (Cotton, Inc. 2009, December 3). Technological Trends Technological trends in the denim market have come full circle since the classic blue jean was first unveiled. Today, cotton blends are very popular in all denim segments. According to Cotton Incorporated, “The use of viscose and Tencel is increasing and brings enhanced softness to cotton blends a well as fluidity and for tight‐fitting silhouettes small amounts of elastane are essential.” Other popular blends are cotton and polyester, as well as cotton and spandex instead of elastane. The polyester helps the cotton better handle tough and abrasive finishes. Finishes themselves have undergone many technological developments. Sandblasting and brushing, in addition to enzyme washing, have almost replaced stonewashing and can be more precise as well. Storm Denim, a new development by Cotton Incorporated, is “a waterproof and breathable chemical finish ensuring denim doesn’t soak up those spring showers.” This finish turns regular denim into a breathable‐waterproof‐rain jacket. In addition to the chemical enhancements that the company uses, Cotton Incorporated suggests that adding Teflon to the surface of the jean will make it stain‐proof and waterproof (Cotton Incorporated, n.d.). Page 39
Cotton Incorporated has also designed a fabric known as Cotton Natural Stretch which will compete with the spandex and elastane blends. This 100% cotton enhancement will not wear with laundering, bleach, or chlorine like spandex. Cotton Natural Stretch claims to allow for free movement and a comfortable feel all day long. This can be found in multiple fabric weights to fit many needs (Cotton Incorporated, n.d.). Outside the denim market, Cotton Incorporated has also come up with ways for cotton to compete with synthetics in the active wear segment. A cotton enhancement known as TransDRY moves sweat and moisture from the inside of the garment where it touches the consumer’s skin to the outside of the garment where it can dry quickly, revolutionizing the way cotton participates in the segment. One hundred percent cotton is rare in activewear because of the impressive claims made by synthetic blends and the patents on sportswear technologies that name brands have engineered. None of the products stand out like TransDRY when put to the test. A demonstration by Mark Messura, Vice President CEO at the North Carolina headquarters, displayed the remarkable capability of a fabric with the TransDRY finish to absorb and then release moisture, which allowed for a quick drying effect (Cotton Incorporated, n.d.). In addition to TransDRY, Wicking Windows is another way in which Cotton Incorporate has enhanced cotton fabric. Wicking Windows is another moisture transfer system within the fabric that allows moisture to travel through channels in the fabric so that it will spread out and therefore dry faster as opposed to allowing moisture to remain in one spot. In addition to active wear, this could be used in womenswear and in junior’s clothing (Cotton Incorporated, n.d.). Page 40
Types of Finishes, Colors, Treatments, and Fabrication There are several different techniques of finishing colors and treatments offered today that give a fashion look to denim jeans. These finishes present distressed appearances where the exposed white fibers of the jeans show signs of wear and extended use. Edges of the pockets, cuffs, waistband, and other areas of the jeans begin to show signs of fraying as a result of abrasion, friction, or some other fiber deterioration process. The major types of distressed finishes include the following variety of treatments: (1) Enzyme Wash, (2) Stonewash, (3) Sandblast, and (4) Sunbleach. The Enzyme Wash finish uses the enzyme cellulose to break down the fibers on the surface of the denim fabric. The Stonewash finish is a method where the jeans are abrasively washed with pumice stones that break down the fabric fibers resulting in a soft, light‐weight feel to the denim jeans. The Sandblast finish utilizes a technique where the fabric is sprayed with sand and then washed in order to give an old, worn look to the jeans. Finally, the Sunbleach finish requires a combination of bleach with sandblasting that results in a soft feel to the denim material. The Enzyme Wash finish creates denim that is dark blue in color. The Stonewash color is medium blue and the Sandblast color is medium‐light blue. The Sunbleach finish is light blue in color (Jeans and Accessories Website, 2010). Typically, jeans are made from 100% cotton or a blend of 50% cotton and 50% polyester. Fabrication blends of cotton and polyester are available as well. Nylon is sometimes used as a blend with cotton to strengthen and toughen the denim material. Furthermore, spandex yarns are sometimes added to the fabric in order to provide stretch and comfort in the jeans. Lastly, a new, cellulosic‐based fiber called Tencel has recently been introduced in denim Page 41
blends with polyester that provides a soft, absorbent fabric which is resistant to wrinkles (Ohio State University Extension, 2010). The different types of t‐ shirt finishes include bleaching, mercerizing, and dyeing. The bleaching process is a finishing treatment that incorporates washing the T‐shirt fabric with bleach to soften it and give it a distressed appearance. Mercerizing is a finishing process for cotton fabric that increases the strength, gleam, and shine of the T‐shirt. Dyeing is a finishing treatment where the fibers of the T‐shirt are colored using a liquid containing a coloring matter that is transferred to the fabric (Judy Hudgins, 2010). T‐shirts come in the full spectrum of colors, ranging from black, blue, green, gold, maroon, navy, orange, purple, and red to neutral tones and neon colors as well. Moreover, T‐shirts have a multitude of graphic designs that can be printed on them to enhance the fashion look of the material. T‐shirts are generally made of cotton fibers. Sometimes, T‐shirts are made from polyester. Other fabrication blends include a combination of both cotton and polyester that are knitted together in a jersey stitch that gives a soft texture to the T‐shirt (Wikipedia, 2010). Because of the comfort provided by the various fabrication blends, T‐shirts are a very popular product for people of all ages. Newest Styles of Jeans and T‐shirts For the year 2010, people are refreshing their wardrobe by simply adding a new pair of jeans. According to Monica Byrd at DC Women’s Style Examiner, there will be several popular jean styles available for the Fall 2010 season. The styles include the high‐rise, slimming bootleg, wide leg, boyfriend, and the skinny/Paris jeans. There will be many different washes and cuts from which to choose. Page 42
The high‐rise jean sits at the natural waistline. The slimming bootleg provides a sleek fit and gives a nice silhouette to the body. A medium dark wash with slight whiskering on the front pockets of the slimming bootleg jean will add an edgy touch to this style. Another design that will be fashionable is the wide‐leg jean that tapers outward towards the bottom of the leg. This gives a more sophisticated and classy look to the wearer. In addition, the wide‐leg jean can be combined with a high‐waistband while accentuating it with vertically running stitching or silver detailing. Several accents that will be popular in the Fall 2010 season for denim jeans include studded diamond rivets, diamond buttons, and bold detailing (Byrd, 2010). The boyfriend cut is loose fitting around the thighs. This style is inspired by male denim jean designs. Hence, boyfriend jeans have a baggier fit at the waist. The legs can be rolled up several inches in order to create a more casual look. Distressed finishes for this style are the most popular and will remain a strong trend for Fall 2010 (Agarwal, 2010). According to Aly Walansky of She Knows Beauty and Style, the skinny denim jean silhouette will maintain its prominence in popularity in the 2010 Fall season. While the skinny jean remains fashionable, there will be varying styles and changes as well. A big hit for this year is expected to be achieved by combining the high‐waistband and five‐pocket design with the skinny jean. Another style that is going to dominate the denim jean world in the Fall of 2010 is the Paris style jean. This is a cropped skinny that works well for petite customers because there is no hemming required. It is also practical because you can tuck them into boots easier than a wide leg jean (Walansky, 2010). Some other variations of the upcoming jean styles expected to be worn this Fall season include tailored pleated trouser pockets and rolled hems. Fashion trends expert Sandeep Page 43
Agarwal believes that some popular denim finishes that will be seen this Fall are tie‐dye, clean indigo (mercerized denim), shines and coatings, patchy denim, as well as acid washes. Popular denim jean colors will range from light‐light blue to medium blue as well as dark indigo (Agarwal, 2010). In addition, ripped jeans and torn denim will remain widespread in the denim scene. A popular technique applied to denim jeans is the application of color on denim through various forms such as weft color metallic yarn, coating pigment, and over‐dyeing. These color effects added to the aesthetic of jeans in the past year and will remain popular the Fall 2010 season (Vannieuwenborgh, 2009‐2010). In the past year, denim blends were soft and cozy with T400 Lycra, tencel, Bi‐stretch, and high stretch‐open weaves. This will continue to be a common blend due to customer comfort preferences. At the recent Textile World Fall/Winter 2010‐11 Preview in New York, the environment and denim were huge sellers. Many companies promoted their eco‐friendly denim, even in these times of economic uncertainty. According to New York Correspondent Virginia S. Borland, Lenzing Fibers that served as the Co‐sponsor for the Textile World Preview showed their Botanic Denim with Tencel. This fabric is known for its soft hand and more eco‐
friendly manufacturing process than other cellulosic processes (Borland, 2010). For the year 2010, T‐shirts are going to remain a popular style of fashion for women. This is because of the versatile styles and comfort. In addition, the multiple varieties of colors, finishes, and blends make T‐shirts attractive merchandise. Furthermore, technological advances in T‐shirt graphic design further enhance this type of clothing. T‐shirt necklines vary from V‐neck, round neck, and scoop neck. V‐neck T‐shirts have been popular this past year and are expected to remain popular this Fall. The designs also have Page 44
several variations of lengths and cuts that create new styles from the traditional T‐shirt cut. The long stretch tee will continue to be prevalent this Fall 2010 season. This style is important to customers because it can be worn as a semi‐dress with leggings. Also, female consumers will continue to pair T‐shirts with denim jeans and heels for a stylish look. These T‐shirt designs can be layered or combined with dressy or casual accessories. The versatility of T‐shirts makes this clothing product a major necessity in women’s wardrobes. There are many different colors that will be popular in the Fall 2010 season. For example, black and white will remain staple colors. Bright and crisp colors in blue, green, navy, orange, purple, and red hues will be fashionable as well. Changes in colors with neon tones are also expected to be seen in the Fall. According to Trendstop, color predictions and shades include emerald greens, bright yellows, and ruby reds (Trendstop, 2010). The printed tee will continue its prominent place in the fashion industry with varying styles of graphics/designs, finishes, and trims. T‐shirts are most commonly made of cotton fibers. In order to provide a softer texture and feel to the fabric, T‐shirts are also made of blends of polyester and cotton. This combination is comfortable to the wearer because it stretches and also breathes well. According to Dave Wheatley, Director of Sales for Groupe Stahl, his prediction is that a major trend for T‐shirts will be “the lighter, the better” (Stahl, 2010). Enzyme washed cottons and soft organic cottons will continue to be used, but polyester is expected to be even more popular this year. To compliment this, there should be many design elements and decorating options considered. Advancements in ink, digital transfers, and appliqués will continue to provide increased flexibility in T‐shirt design. Due to the current global economic recession, keeping the Page 45
cost of production down is a necessity for businesses to remain solvent financially. Therefore, many product developers are being cautious concerning incorporating newer appliqué and design elements for T‐shirts. Nevertheless, bold colors and soft, stretchy, breathable fabrics will continue to be used in 2010 (Stahl, 2010). Location for Manufacturing According to the Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA) Major Shippers Report for Blue Denim Trousers for Women and Girls dated December 2009, the top five importers of women’s denim jeans to the United States were as follows: (1) China, (2) Mexico, (3), Bangladesh, (4) Vietnam, and (5) Egypt (OTEXA, 2010). When comparing the hourly labor cost in U.S. dollars per hour for each of these countries in apparel manufacturing, the costs are as follows: (1) China = $1.08, (2) Mexico = $2.54, (3), Bangladesh = $0.22, (4) Vietnam = $0.38, and (5) Egypt = $0.83 (Jassin‐O'Rourke Group, LLC., 2010). Some of the manufacturers in these countries that are most active in producing denim jeans and T‐shirts are as follows: Country China Mexico Bangladesh Vietnam Women’s Denim Jeans
Richforth Limited
15/F, West District of Fucheng Bldg., No.338 Hualin Rd., Fuzhou Fujian China 350013 Confecciones Y Distribuciones Lumar
Ave. San Bernabe #301, Col. Valle Morelo Monterrey 64180 Nuevo Leon Mexico Mascot Group Ltd.
146, Zirabo, Dewan Idris Rd Ashulia dhaka, Bangladesh Bangladesh 1213 Phung Hanh Jean
T‐shirts Nanchang YoungSun Knitwear Co. Ltd
Rm. 3101‐06/2728, Shenzhen International Trade Center Building South Renmin Rd., Shenzhen Guangdong China 518001 Creaciones Gaylin 20 De Noviembre 151/5 Piso‐501 Y 502 Mexico City 06090 Distrito Federal Mexico Mascot Group Ltd. 146, Zirabo, Dewan Idris Rd Ashulia dhaka, Bangladesh Bangladesh 1213 Phong Phu Trading & Investment Promotion Corporation
Page 46
Tp. Hcm96 Ly Tu Trong‐Q1
Tp. Hcm Vietnam Egypt Ocean Garments Port Said Public Free Zone Port Said Egypt 168B Bui Thi Xuan Street, Pham Ngu Lao Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh South Region Vietnam Egyptian Textile For Dying and Finishing
3 Nady El Plastic Street Shoubra El Kheima Egypt Most Popular Details, Findings, and Trims Associates at StyleSight.com, a fashion forecasting website, predict a dark‐colored‐
vintage style to take over the fall 2010 jean‐scene. Pictured in their fall denim booklet of jean fashions are dark hues of grays and blues that have been finished to look rugged and worn. The look‐book showcases men’s and women’s jeans trends. By adding “softly aged whiskering and multi techniques,” the premium denim brands of jeans manufactured by Paige Denim, Hudson Jeans, Vintage Revolution, and Evisu achieve a vintage and worn look. The jeans are draped over models and mannequins and allow crinkles to form in the fabric. Even mock paint stains and tears have been added around the front pockets to emphasize the rugged look of the jean. Iron Army jeans show oil stains and tears in the knees in StyleSight’s “worker jean” section of the look‐book and are showing whiskering throughout the entire leg. Other companies, such as Drive Jeans and Hudson Jeans, are also showing stained denim paired with stone washing and soft bleaching to show more wear in certain areas in the pant leg. Both Hudson Jean and Iron Army show their denim with the cuffs rolled up to display the light colored selvedge fabric that is on the inside of the jean which StyleSight regards as evoking a “heritage look.” Postage, another premium denim label, uses resin and coatings to pull off a metallic sheen on the surface of the jean. The metallic element dresses up the jean Page 47
and gives it a blue‐black or silver‐grey color. Mixed with hand sanding, the jeans in the “Coating and Resin” section of the look‐book reveal the raw denim and make the rugged metallics versatile for both day and night wear. As bleaching and shading effects have brought tye‐dyed looks back into knitwear for 2009 and 2010, the techniques have appeared in denim as well. Bleaching and intense whiskering throughout the entire jean creates a softer‐than‐acid‐wash feel and the tye‐dyed look is apparent. Not all denim is destroyed and worn, however, as the “Minimal Abrasion” section of StyleSight’s denim look‐book moves “toward clean finishes and crisp surfaces.” Again, dark hues embody the denim while bits of fabric around the front pockets display slight abrasion for a conservative amount of frayed or torn cotton. Stonewashing and a little sandblasting keep the jean looking slightly worn, yet new and clean. In addition to a dark deep color, shiny and noteworthy findings and hardware are shown as being popular additions as well. Copper buttons adorn every pair of jeans in the look‐book, along with shiny zippers and brightly colored golden thread for seam stitching. Exposed hardware is very fashionable this year, not only on the front of the jean, but also on the back pockets as well. Copper hardware, such as non‐functional buttons, adheres to the corners of back pockets to add small details (StyleSight, 2010). In addition to the general look‐book for fall and winter 2010, Fashions in Denim is a look‐book focused solely on the women’s segment for denim. The “Design and Development” section shows a “DIY Structure” page with details giving an amateurish spin to denim off the runway alongside panels of Pantone colors. Blues, Grays, and muted turquoise are shown, as are muted beige and rose colors. Pleated jeans are also popular, giving the look of a pleated men’s trouser with ballooned fronts and an exaggerated tapered leg. Heavy patch pockets and Page 48
exposed hardware add to the menswear‐look featured in other sections of the “Design Development” book that translate into a vintage and peasantry feel Denim (StyleSight, 2010). Page 49
Trend Images – Women’s Jeans Dark Washes Pocket Details, Boot Cut
High‐Waist, Slimming Leg Wide Leg, Whiskering
Skinny Leg, No‐Gap Waist
Pocket Flaps, Detailed Cuff
Page 50
Trouser‐Look Detailed Patch Pockets
Boyfriend Denim Traditional‐Look, Detailed Hem
Trouser Look, Dressy Waistband
Wide‐Leg Trouser Look
Page 51
Boyfriend Jeans, Whiskering Graduated Wash, Distressed, Trouser‐Look Thick Cuff, Side Seem Pocket Dark Wash, Wide Leg
Trouser‐Look, Med. Dark Wash Trouser Look, Straight Leg
Page 52
Trend Images – Women’s T‐shirts ¾ Length, Cuff Sleeve, Scoop Neck Shirring Scoop Neck, ¾ Length Sleeve
Beaded Embellished Neck, Gathered
T‐Shirt Tunic, Side Pockets, Gathered Detail Scoop Neck, Double Font Tee (Hides Flaws) Faux Sweater Overlay Attachment Page 53
Theme Board Page 54
Page 55
Theme Board Our theme is not “Girl’s Night Out” but “Women’s Night Out!” Simply put, we are inspired by women’s lives: their relationships, their passions, their jeans, their lives in jeans! •
The woman who feels that at 48, she is sexier than ever. •
The woman who wants an outfit that transfers easily from the office to the lounge where she grabs a drink with a date. •
The woman who wants to look classy and casual with a bit of flare when she joins her husband at their favorite, local restaurant. •
The woman who wants to enjoy the way she looks when she pulls on one of her “Button Jeans.” We want women to “Love Their Button Jeans.” We know that the woman who shops in Perry’s Womenswear is a busy individual. She is active, works, has a family, and goes out with her friends from time to time. She needs something that is easily transferable from the office to “women’s night out.” She needs jeans that are versatile, yet true to who she is. When the Perry’s customer goes out, the cocktail dress is not an appropriate choice, but the old pair of slacks sitting in the closet is anything but sexy and chic. By offering a sexier, dressier jean, women in the Perry’s geographic areas can go out and feel comfortable yet classy, because when you look good, you feel good! We know that the “A” store woman takes her job seriously and needs something she can pair with a blazer for the office and with a blouse for drinks afterwards. Page 56
We also know that the “B” store woman has a busy day as well and needs something that will carry her through the task of running errands for her family and then transition easily into “women’s night out,” a time when she gets to kick back with the girls. Lastly, we know that the “C” store woman may not go out to the martini lounge in a low cut halter top, pencil skirt, and stilettos, but instead prefers to wear a nice pair of dark denim jeans when she accompanies her husband to their favorite, local restaurant. She feels most comfortable in jeans and with the right pair, can feel sexy without breaking her budget or trying to follow the latest trends. Principles of Design Repetition Our board repeats elements of color as well as certain images. Certain dark blues and shades of fuchsia can be seen repeated on both the left and right sides of our board. This helps create unity between the two aspects of our inspiration. We also repeat images of jeans (as well as T‐shirts) throughout our board to emphasize the main product that is our focus. Also, we repeat the use of square‐shaped cut‐outs and the use of text to further the unison. Alignment The alignment of our board is set up so as to make it easily understood. The middle contains more empty space in order to ensure that it is the first place that the viewer’s eye is drawn. The left and right sides are both organized in a collage that evokes the viewer’s eye to easily flow from picture to picture. Page 57
Proximity The proximity within our board is extremely obvious. We chose to emphasize this element in the creation of our board so that we might use it to our advantage. Every picture was categorized as either showing the products or the lifestyles that inspired us. We then created left and right sides on our board for each category so that the related items could be placed next to one another, thus producing a more organized visual that was clear and concise. Contrast Contrast can be seen through our use of spatial division and color. On one side of the board (left) the types and styles of jeans and T‐Shirts that inspired us can be seen. This side embraces the inspiration for our products and features a cool color scheme. Depicted are various dressy jeans that have a good fit and a flattering cut for any woman’s body shape. Contrastingly, on the other side of our board (right) the women and lifestyles that inspired us can be viewed. The women are depicted enjoying life, friends, and family. There are pictures showing them going out and living younger even at older ages. This side of the board makes use of a warm color scheme. The opposing color schemes help demonstrate to the viewer our two main inspirations. Page 58
Design Board Page 59
Page 60
Design Board Each jean is representative of the type of woman who will wear them based on our lifestyle profiling of the Perry’s geographic area. The cut of each jean is specific to one of “our women.” Our theme, "Women’s Night Out," is inspired by the things the women love that define who they are. Let us introduce you to the women and the jeans they inspired: Carmen: Modified Skinny Carmen gets things done. She is a go‐getter, divorcee who enjoys a night out with the women after hours. She has two kids who are both grown and out of the house. Carmen is an attorney who wears conservative clothing at work. She considers her career her top priority, but enjoys the chance to break free from her work attire. Carmen likes to go out in outfits that are stylish and trendy. She has inspired the stylish, “living young,” Modified Skinny Jeans. Diane: Boot Cut Diane is a conservative and devoted mother of three. She keeps a planner to keep track of her busy schedule. Lately, Diane’s planner has less and less written in the pages because her children are getting older and more independent. She enjoys church events, cooking, and getting together with her close friends and neighbors. Her Book Club is another one of her favorite ways to spend free time. When she is not cooking up a mean meatloaf, she is going out with her husband to their favorite local restaurant. She has inspired the traditionally modest, yet always in style, Boot Cut Jeans. Addison: Boyfriend Addison is a fun‐loving, active woman who loves getting her hands dirty. Every morning, she gets up at the crack of dawn to take her three dogs out for a lengthy walk. It is just one of Page 61
the ways she keeps herself fit and healthy. When Addison spends time with her husband, they opt for an evening at the movies watching the latest flick. However, sometimes a quiet evening at home in front of the fire with a bucket of popcorn and a Netflix pick is all they need! She has inspired the comfortable, casual, and activity adaptable Boyfriend Jeans. Bobbi: Trouser Cut Bobbi is a hip and trendy “Empty‐Nester,” who enjoys wine and cheese nights with her husband and their friends. Sometimes for a special treat, she will go to art galleries or just out to the movies and then for drinks with her girl friends. Even though she has been married for quite some time, Bobbi still likes to look stylish and cares about her image. Yoga and keeping up with the latest fashion trends are ways that Bobbi keeps herself looking fresh and modern. She has inspired the sexy, sophisticated, Trouser Cut Jeans. All of the jeans work well for both daywear and nights out. They are styled to enhance evening ensembles (replacing short skirts and ill‐fitting trousers) and flatteringly fit the bodies of women who are in their 40s and 50s and have not given up on style or living active lives. T‐Shirts The three T‐shirts shown vary in sleeve length from either long sleeves or ¾ length sleeves in keeping with the fall season for which they will début. Each will have a double‐layer front in order to better conceal any figure flaws and ensure the customer looks her best. Also, each top has the comfort of a cotton T‐shirt without forgoing style. This can be seen in the necklines, draping, etc. Page 62
Principles of Design Repetition Our board repeats elements of color as well as certain images. The illustrations repeat the shades of the color swatches on the board. This strengthens and unifies the board as a whole. To further enhance the unity of the board, we incorporated diagonal angles throughout. For example, the illustrations include angled arms, angled text, and angled fabric swatches. Also, we repeat the use of rectangular‐shaped cut‐outs of the jean flats and square‐shaped cut‐
outs of the color swatches, button logo, and metal button to further unify the display. Alignment The alignment of our board is set up to clearly connect the flats with each other. The illustrations are placed in the same manner, in reference to the width and distance from each other and also have a visual connection with the fabric swatches because of the angle of the illustrations. The edges of the cut‐outs placed on the board have an equal alignment and spacing. The left and right sides of the board are organized in concise sections that display the designs clearly to the viewer. We also utilized the flush right and flush left alignments, excluding our brand name which is centered above our illustrations. This creates the focal point to which the viewer should initially be drawn. Proximity The proximity within our board is shown through the organization of the jean flats which are grouped together as well as the T‐shirt flats, which are also grouped together. The color swatches are arranged in one horizontal line and convey one visual unit. Also, the fabric swatches are placed together and are on the right side of the board along with the denim jean Page 63
flats. This produces a more organized, structured look. Putting similar items next to their counterparts helps strengthen the relationship between like items and create connections among images. Our board layout easily allows viewers to see various design aspects of our private label because of our focus on proximity. Contrast Contrast can be seen through our use of differing font sizes, varied colors in illustrations, and the colors of fabric swatches. On the left side of the board are the illustrations, T‐shirts, and Button Jean logo design. In contrast, the right side of the board displays the denim line to include jean flats, detail of button, and fabric swatches. Both sides clearly provide contrasting elements that are different and provide a visual attraction to the overall layout of the board. Also, our usage of black and white images as well as color images exemplifies contrast. We assembled the colorful illustrations directly under the name of our jean brand in order to primarily draw the viewer’s focus toward this area of the board. From there, the viewer’s eye can then wander to the various black and white technical flats located around the illustrations. Page 64
Fabric Detail Sheets Page 65
FABRIC DETAIL SHEET
Fabric ID #:
F0001
Fiber Content:
Description:
Season:
98% Cotton 2% Spandex
F10
Fabric Weight:
9 oz/square yard
Distressed Blue Denim
Fabric Width:
52”
Cost:
$3.99 per yard
Swatch
Color Standards
Pantone®
19-3926 TPX
Crown Blue
Pantone®
19-4010 TPX
Total Eclipse
Pantone®
19-4220 TPX
Dark Slate
Finish:
Clean- Denim jeans that retain their indigo color even after repeated
washings.
Washing Instructions: Machine wash cold, tumble dry low, no chlorine bleach,
iron wrong side only, steam only
Miscellaneous:
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FABRIC DETAIL SHEET
Fabric ID #:
F0002
Fiber Content:
Description:
Season:
98% Cotton 2% Spandex
F10
Fabric Weight: 12.5 oz/square yard
Nostalgic STR Denim
Fabric Width:
52”
Cost: $3.99 per yard
Swatch
Color Standards
Pantone®
19-3926 TPX
Crown Blue
Pantone®
19-4010 TPX
Total Eclipse
Pantone®
19-4220 TPX
Dark Slate
Finish:
Clean- Denim jeans that retain their indigo color even after repeated
washings.
Washing Instructions: Machine wash cold, tumble dry low, no chlorine bleach,
iron wrong side only, steam only
Miscellaneous:
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FABRIC DETAIL SHEET
F0003
Fabric ID #:
Fiber Content:
Season:
100% Cotton
F10
Fabric Weight: 6 oz/square yard
Cotton Knit
Description:
Fabric Width:
60”
Cost:
$4.75 per yard
Swatch
Color Standards
®
Pantone
15-1050 TPX
Golden Glow
Pantone®
16-1546 TPX
Living Coral
Pantone®
16-5418 TPX
Lagoon
Pantone®
19-5708 TPX
Jet Set
Pantone®
11-4800 TPX
Blanc de Blanc
Pantone®
18-0538 TPX
Woodbine
Finish: Mercerized (Bleaching for Pantone® 11-4800 TPX)
Washing Instructions: Machine wash cold, tumble dry low, no chlorine
bleach
Miscellaneous:
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FABRIC DETAIL SHEET
Fabric ID #:
F0004
Fiber Content:
Description:
100% Cotton
Season:
F10
Fabric Weight: 3.5 oz/square yard
Cotton Broadcloth
Fabric Width:
44”
Cost:
$1.60 per yard
Swatch
Color Standards
Pantone®
19-1526 TPX
Plum
Finish:
N/A
Washing Instructions: Machine wash cold, tumble dry low, no chlorine bleach,
iron wrong side only, steam only
Miscellaneous:
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Fabric ID #F0001 Perry’s chose a 9 oz. per square yard weight of denim to use in the creation of the skinny jeans and the boyfriend jeans. The lighter weight denim will work well for the form‐
fitting structure of the skinny jeans without being overly thick, bulky, or stiff. Similarly, it will also aid in creating the comfortable and slouchy appearance expected from a boyfriend jean; stiffness and inflexibility would alter the relaxed look and feel. Perry’s decided to use denim with the fiber content 98% cotton and 2% spandex in order to utilize all of the benefits of cotton, such as comfort, easy care, and strength, while preventing sagging and maximizing stretch and fit potential with the use of spandex. Perry’s determined the wholesale cost per yard ($3.99) by taking the retail price at Joann Fabric & Crafts ($9.99) and assuming that a 60% markup was used. Perry’s picked the Pantone colors (PANTONE 19‐3926 TPX, PANTONE 19‐4010 TPX, and PANTONE 19‐4220 TPX) based on the idea that darker colors in jeans appear more slimming on the wearer and look dressier for evening occasions. They also work well when paired with brighter colored tops by making colors pop and appear more vibrant. Perry’s chose a “clean” finish to be applied to the denim fabrics in order to prevent color fading after repeated washings.
Fabric ID #F0002 Perry’s chose a 12.5 oz. per square yard weight of denim for the creation of the trouser jeans and the boot cut jeans. The heavier weight denim will work best for the structured look of the trouser jeans because of its ability to hold shape well. Additionally, it will also add the necessary structure to the boot cut jean so that it remains durable and form‐fitting after Page 70
extended wear. Perry’s decided to use denim with the fiber content 98% cotton and 2% spandex in order to utilize all of the benefits of cotton, such as comfort, easy care, and strength, while preventing sagging and maximizing stretch and fit potential with the use of spandex. Perry’s determined the wholesale cost per yard ($3.99) by taking the retail price at Joann Fabric & Crafts ($9.99) and assuming that a 60% markup was used. Perry’s decided on the Pantone colors (PANTONE 19‐3926 TPX, PANTONE 19‐4010 TPX, and PANTONE 19‐4220 TPX) based on the idea that darker colors in jeans appear more slimming on the wearer and look dressier for evening occasions. They also work well when paired with brighter colored tops by making colors pop and appear more vibrant. Perry’s chose a “clean” finish to be applied to the denim fabrics in order to prevent color fading after repeated washings. Fabric ID #F0003 Perry’s is using 100% cotton mercerized fabric for all the T‐shirts in order to better create comfort, dye‐ability, and an easy care product. Perry’s has chosen to produce three styles of T‐shirts, all of which are available in the following six colors: PANTONE 15‐1050 TPX, PANTONE 16‐1546 TPX, PANTONE 16‐5418 TPX, PANTONE 18‐0538 TPX, PANTONE 19‐5708 TPX, and PANTONE 11‐4800 TPX. However, the white color will be achieved by bleaching. Perry’s was able to locate the wholesale price for mercerized cotton from the website www.fashionfabricsclub.com and by clicking on the “cotton fabric” and “jersey knit” links. The fabric width was also obtained from this website.
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Fabric ID #F0004
The 100% cotton broadcloth Perry’s chose to create the pocket bags within the jeans is typical in all aspects except for color. Perry’s has chosen to use a plum purple (PANTONE 19‐
1526 TPX) to coincide with the theme of using dark, slimming colors of denim. The plum pocket linings will simply add a touch of luxury and a signature accent to the line of jeans. Perry’s is aware that this added color will increase the cost by a slight amount; however, the line is very basic and classy with very few extra costs. This added touch will create brand identity and contribute to the overall dressy feel of the jeans. The determined wholesale cost per yard ($1.60) by taking the retail price at Joann Fabric & Crafts ($3.99) and assuming that a 60% markup was used. *Fabric weights for #F0003 and #F0004 were determined using the website www.dharmatrading.com Page 72
Style Specification Sheets Page 73
STYLE SPECIFICATION SHEET
Style #: S100
Previous Style #: N/A
Season: F10
Date: February 1, 2010
Sketch – Front
Description: Misses Trouser 4-Pocket Jean
Fabric #: #F0002 Denim, #F0004 Pockets
Type/Fiber content: 98% Cotton, 2% Spandex
Finish: N/A
Colors/Print/YD Patterns
Crown Blue
Total Eclipse
Dark Slate
Percentages of each
30%
35%
35%
FINDINGS/TRIM
Buttons
Zipper
Clasps
Thread
Size
Size Scale
Type/Number
Flat w/ 4 Holes
YKK/ #288
Topstitching
2
1
4
1
Color
Black
Nickel
Silver
Match
6
2
8
2
Size
22L
4”
N/A
N/A
10
2
12
2
Sketch – Back
Amount
1
1
2
N/A
14
1
16
1
DUE DATES
Lab dips/Strike-offs: Feb. 22, 2010
In DC Date: July 2, 2010
Ex Factory Date: May 12, 2010 Prototype sample: Feb. 15, 2010
Cost Price: Feb. 15, 2010
Page 74
STYLE SPECIFICATION SHEET
Style #: S200
Previous Style #: N/A
Season: F10
Sketch – Front
Date: February 1, 2010
Description: Misses Boot Cut 5-Pocket Jean
Fabric #: #F0002 Denim, #F0004 Pockets
Type/Fiber content: 98% Cotton, 2% Spandex
Finish: N/A
Colors/Print/YD Patterns
Crown Blue
Total Eclipse
Dark Slate
Percentages of each
40%
30%
30%
FINDINGS/TRIM
Buttons
Zipper
Thread
Rivets
Size
Size Scale
Type/Number
Logo, Flat w/ Shank
YKK/ #288
Topstitching
2
1
4
1
6
2
Color
Nickel
Nickel
Match
Nickel
8
2
10
2
Size
22L
4”
N/A
N/A
12
2
Amount
3
1
N/A
9
14
1
Sketch – Back
16
1
DUE DATES
Lab dips/Strike-offs: Feb. 22, 2010
In DC Date: July 2, 2010
Ex Factory Date: May 12, 2010 Prototype sample: Feb. 15, 2010
Cost Price: Feb. 15, 2010
Page 75
STYLE SPECIFICATION SHEET
Style #: S300
Previous Style #: N/A
Season: F10
Sketch – Front
Date: February 1, 2010
Description: Misses Boyfriend 5-Pocket Jean
Fabric #: #F0001 Denim, #F0004 Pockets
Type/Fiber content: 98% Cotton, 2% Spandex
Finish: N/A
Colors/Print/YD Patterns
Crown Blue
Total Eclipse
Dark Slate
Percentages of each
30%
35%
35%
FINDINGS/TRIM
Buttons
Zipper
Thread
Rivets
Size
Size Scale
Type/Number
Logo, Flat w/ Shank
YKK/ #288
Topstitching
2
1
4
1
6
2
Color
Nickel
Nickel
Match
Nickel
8
2
10
2
Size
22L
4”
N/A
N/A
12
2
Amount
1
1
N/A
9
14
1
Sketch – Back
16
1
DUE DATES
Lab dips/Strike-offs: Feb. 22, 2010
In DC Date: July 2, 2010
Ex Factory Date: May 12, 2010 Prototype sample: Feb. 15, 2010
Cost Price: Feb. 15, 2010
Page 76
STYLE SPECIFICATION SHEET
Style #: S400
Previous Style #: N/A
Season: F10
Sketch – Front
Date: February 1, 2010
Description: Misses 5-Pocket Modified Skinny Jean
Fabric #: #F0001 Denim, #F0004 Pockets
Type/Fiber content: 98% Cotton, 2% Spandex
Finish: N/A
Colors/Print/YD Patterns
Crown Blue
Total Eclipse
Dark Slate
Percentages of each
25%
25%
50%
FINDINGS/TRIM
Buttons
Zipper
Thread
Rivets
Size
Size Scale
Type/Number
Logo, Flat w/ Shank
YKK/ #288
Topstitching
2
1
4
1
6
2
Color
Nickel
Nickel
Match
Nickel
Size
22L
4”
N/A
N/A
8
2
12
2
10
2
Amount
7
1
N/A
9
14
1
Sketch – Back
16
1
DUE DATES
Lab dips/Strike-offs: Feb. 22, 2010
In DC Date: July 2, 2010
Ex Factory Date: May 12, 2010 Prototype sample: Feb. 15, 2010
Cost Price: Feb. 15, 2010
Page 77
STYLE SPECIFICATION SHEET
Style #: S500
Previous Style #: N/A
Season: F10
Date: February 1, 2010
Sketch – Front
Description: Misses Long Sleeve V-Neck w/ Draped Front
Fabric #: F0003
Type/Fiber content: 100% Cotton
Finish: N/A
Colors/Print/YD Patterns
White
Black
Coral
Woodbine
Lagoon
Golden Glow
Percentages of each
20%
20%
15%
15%
15%
15%
FINDINGS/TRIM
N/A
Size
Size Scale
Type/Number
S
2
M
4
Color
L
4
Size
Amount
XL
2
DUE DATES
Lab dips/Strike-offs: Feb. 22, 2010
In DC Date: July 2, 2010
Ex Factory Date: May 12, 2010 Prototype sample: Feb. 15, 2010
Cost Price: Feb. 15, 2010
Page 78
STYLE SPECIFICATION SHEET
Style #: S600
Previous Style #: N/A
Season: F10
Date: February 1, 2010
Sketch – Front
Description: Misses ¾ Length Sleeve Ruched Scoop-Neck w/
Banded Waist
Fabric #: F0003
Type/Fiber content: 100% Cotton
Finish: N/A
Colors/Print/YD Patterns
White
Black
Coral
Woodbine
Lagoon
Golden Glow
Percentages of each
20%
20%
15%
15%
15%
15%
FINDINGS/TRIM
N/A
Size
Size Scale
Type/Number
S
2
M
4
Color
L
4
Size
Amount
XL
2
DUE DATES
Lab dips/Strike-offs: Feb. 22, 2010
In DC Date: July 2, 2010
Ex Factory Date: May 12, 2010 Prototype sample: Feb. 15, 2010
Cost Price: Feb. 15, 2010
Page 79
STYLE SPECIFICATION SHEET
Style #: S700
Previous Style #: N/A
Season: F10
Date: February 1, 2010
Sketch – Front
Description: Misses ¾ Length Sleeve w/ Faux Shrug Overlay
Fabric #: F0003
Type/Fiber content: 100% Cotton
Finish: N/A
Colors/Print/YD Patterns
White
Black
Coral
Woodbine
Lagoon
Golden Glow
Percentages of each
20%
20%
15%
15%
15%
15%
FINDINGS/TRIM
N/A
Size
Size Scale
Type/Number
S
2
M
4
Color
L
4
Size
Amount
XL
2
DUE DATES
Lab dips/Strike-offs: Feb. 22, 2010
In DC Date: July 2, 2010
Ex Factory Date: May 12, 2010 Prototype sample: Feb. 15, 2010
Cost Price: Feb. 15, 2010
Page 80
Style Spec Sheet: Justifications Style #: S100 Misses Trouser 4‐Pocket Jean Perry’s chose a 12.5 ounce per square yard weight of denim for the creation of the Trouser Jeans. The heavier weight denim will work best for the structured look of the trouser jeans because of its ability to hold shape well. Perry’s decided to use denim with the fiber content 98% cotton and 2% spandex in order to utilize all of the benefits of cotton. In addition to comfort, easy care, and strength, other benefits include the prevention of sagging while maximizing stretch and fit potential through the use of spandex. Perry’s decided on the Pantone colors (PANTONE 19‐3926 TPX, PANTONE 19‐4010 TPX, and PANTONE 19‐4220 TPX) for all four styles of jeans based on the idea that darker colors in jeans appear more slimming on the wearer and look dressier for evening occasions. They also work well when paired with brighter colored tops by making colors pop and appear more vibrant. Perry’s chose a “clean” finish to be applied to the denim fabrics in order to prevent color fading after repeated washings. All of the colors in which the jeans will be offered are important; however, PANTONE 19‐3926 TPX (Crown Blue) is only allotted 30% of the total production for Style #S100 because Perry’s believes the bright blue color will be slightly less sought after by its customers. The darker colors such as PANTONE 19‐4010 TPX (Total Eclipse) and PANTONE 19‐4220 TPX (Dark Slate) will each be given 35% because they are likely to be more popular on the Trouser Jeans since shades of gray and black pair well with all colored tops and appear dressier, hence the purpose of the Trouser Jeans. Page 81
Style #: S100 – Trims and Findings The button used for the Trouser Jeans is flat with 4 holes because it is a hidden, inside panel button needed only for securing the jeans internally before fastening the clasps (Size 22L – same size as all of the buttons used in this private label). The clasps used are typical of those found on the inside of dress slacks and will be in a set of two. Although the clasps will be silver in color, in order to keep with the typical coloration of clasps used in dress slacks, all of our other metals will be a nickel color for the entire line (zippers, logo buttons, rivets, etc.). The thread for the topstitching will be matched to the jean color. Style #: S200 Misses Boot Cut 5-Pocket Jean
Perry’s chose a 12.5 ounce per square yard weight of denim for the creation of the Boot Cut Jeans. The heavier weight denim will work best for the structured look of the Boot Cut Jeans because of its ability to hold shape well. Perry’s decided to use denim with the fiber content 98% cotton and 2% spandex in order to utilize all of the benefits of cotton. In addition to comfort, easy care, and strength, other benefits include the prevention of sagging while maximizing stretch and fit potential through the use of spandex. Perry’s decided on the Pantone colors (PANTONE 19‐3926 TPX, PANTONE 19‐4010 TPX, and PANTONE 19‐4220 TPX) for all four styles of jeans based on the idea that darker colors in jeans appear more slimming on the wearer and look dressier for evening occasions. They also work well when paired with brighter colored tops by making colors pop and appear more vibrant. Perry’s chose a “clean” finish to be applied to the denim fabrics in order to prevent color fading after repeated washings. Page 82
All of the colors in which the jeans will be offered are important; however, PANTONE 19‐3926 TPX (Crown Blue) is allotted 40% of the total production for Style #S200 because Perry’s believes the bright blue color will be more sought after by customers because of the traditional, classic‐look it will give to this classic style of denim. The darker colors such as PANTONE 19‐4010 TPX (Total Eclipse) and PANTONE 19‐4220 TPX (Dark Slate) will each be given 30% because they are likely to be less popular on the Boot Cut Jeans since shades of gray and black are considered more modern. Style #: S200 – Trims and Findings The buttons used for the Boot Cut Jeans are flat with shanks (found with one on the main front opening and two as pocket flap closures on the back pockets) because they are durable and typical of buttons used for denim (Size 22L – the same size as all of the buttons used in this private label). The buttons will all feature our Button Jeans logo and be a nickel color, the same as all of our other metals for the entire line (zippers, rivets, etc.). The thread for the topstitching will be matched to the jean color. Style #: S300 Misses Boyfriend 5‐Pocket Jean Perry’s chose a 9 ounce per square yard weight of denim to use in the creation of the Boyfriend Jeans. The lighter weight denim will work well in creating the comfortable and slouchy appearance expected from a boyfriend jean; stiffness and inflexibility would alter the relaxed look and feel. Perry’s decided to use denim with the fiber content 98% cotton and 2% spandex in order to utilize all of the benefits of cotton. In addition to comfort, easy care, and Page 83
strength, other benefits include the prevention of sagging while maximizing stretch and fit potential through the use of spandex. Perry’s decided on the Pantone colors (PANTONE 19‐3926 TPX, PANTONE 19‐4010 TPX, and PANTONE 19‐4220 TPX) for all four styles of jeans based on the idea that darker colors in jeans appear more slimming on the wearer and look dressier for evening occasions. They also work well when paired with brighter colored tops by making colors pop and appear more vibrant. Perry’s chose a “clean” finish for application to the denim fabrics in order to prevent color fading after repeated washings. All of the colors in which the jeans will be offered are important; however, PANTONE 19‐3926 TPX (Crown Blue) is only allotted 30% of the total production for Style #S300 because Perry’s believes the bright blue color will be slightly less sought after by its customers. The darker colors such as PANTONE 19‐4010 TPX (Total Eclipse) and PANTONE 19‐4220 TPX (Dark Slate) will each be given 35% and are likely to be more popular on the Boyfriend Jeans since darker shades of jeans are highly favored during the Fall season. Style #: S300 – Trims and Findings The button used for the Boyfriend Jean is flat with a shank because it is needed for securing the waistband of the jean. The button size for the Boyfriend Jean is 22L (i.e., same size as all of the buttons used in this private label). This style of button is known for its strength and durability, as well as its ability to withstand tension and wear. The thread for the topstitching will be matched to the jean color. Also, the metals will be a nickel color for the entire line of jeans (e.g., zippers, logo buttons, rivets, etc.). Page 84
Style #: S400 Misses 5‐Pocket Modified Skinny Jean Perry’s chose a 9 ounce per square yard weight of denim to use in the creation of the Modified Skinny Jeans. The lighter weight denim will work well for the form‐fitting structure of the skinny jeans without being overly thick, bulky, or stiff. Perry’s decided to use denim with the fiber content 98% cotton and 2% spandex in order to utilize all of the benefits of cotton. In addition to comfort, easy care, and strength, other benefits include the prevention of sagging while maximizing stretch and fit potential through the use of spandex. Perry’s decided on the Pantone colors (PANTONE 19‐3926 TPX, PANTONE 19‐4010 TPX, and PANTONE 19‐4220 TPX) for all four styles of jeans based on the idea that darker colors in jeans appear more slimming on the wearer and look dressier for evening occasions. They also work well when paired with brighter colored tops by making colors pop and appear more vibrant. Perry’s chose a “clean” finish to be applied to the denim fabrics in order to prevent color fading after repeated washings. All of the colors in which the jeans will be offered are important. Some women believe that skinny jeans do not flatter their bodies and might accentuate their flaws or make them appear heavier because of the fitted silhouette. Therefore, choosing the right color for these jeans is essential. PANTONE 19‐4010 TPX (Total Eclipse) is the darkest color, which will make up 50% of the total production for Style #S400. Perry’s believes that they can alter the average woman’s opinion of skinny jeans by encouraging her to wear them in a darker shade. The choice of color will create the impression that the jeans have slimmed their legs and hips. The other colors such as PANTONE 19‐3926 TPX (Crown Blue) and PANTONE 19‐4220 TPX (Dark Page 85
Slate) will each be given 25% because they will be slightly less sought after by customers. Even though Crown Blue and Dark Slate are great fashionable colors and semi‐dark in tone, they will be slightly less popular. These colors are for slimmer consumers who will be complemented by the “skinny jean silhouette” regardless of the shade they choose. There are three stylish, decorative, yet functional buttons on each outer side at the bottom of the Skinny Jeans with the purpose of bringing a different look to the jean itself. This modified pant leg will look dressier with a pair of heels or flats for a night out. Otherwise, the Skinny Jeans can also transform themselves from glamour to casual with the folding up of those 4‐inch splits, thus converting them into a pair of cropped jeans. Dressed up with a pair of ankle boots or dressed down with a pair of cute flip‐flops, they will bring fun and energy to all women. Style #: S400 – Trims and Findings The buttons, which will bear our Button Jeans logo, are used for the Modified Skinny Jeans on both the main front opening (one) and on the pant legs (three on each leg). They are flat with a shank and are a size 22L (the same size used for all the buttons of this private label). There are seven buttons total for the skinny jeans. All the buttons are a nickel color which will match the other findings of the jeans, such as zippers and rivets. The thread for the topstitching will be matched to the jean color. Sizing (All Jeans) Our primary sizes will be 6, 8, 10, and 12 with our secondary sizes of 2, 4, 14, and 16. The primary sizes are those in which we expect to sell the greatest number of jeans, while the Page 86
secondary numbers are equally important but likely to require fewer sizes stocked per store. The majority of our women customers range from a size 6 to a size 12. Sizing (T‐shirts) Perry’s T‐shirts will come in size small (S), medium (M), large (L), and extra large (XL). These sizes will be stocked in the ratio 2‐4‐4‐2. Perry’s expects that the majority of their customers will be either a size medium or a size large. Each of the three T‐shirt styles will be available in this same sizing ratio. Color (T‐shirts) Perry’s is offering a higher percentage (20%) of black and white colored T‐shirts to consumers versus the other available colors (i.e., coral – 15%, woodbine ‐15%, lagoon – 15%, and golden glow – 15%). The reasoning behind the black and white color percentages is based upon the fact that they are classic colors that the majority of women seek year round and tend to generate greater sales than other garment colors. Page 87
Size Specification Sheets Page 88
DETAIL AND SIZE SPECIFICATION SHEET
Style #: S100 Misses Trouser 4-Pocket Jean
Labels
Type/Ref#
Main Label
BJML - Button Jeans,
Love Your Button Jeans
(Woven)
Woven – MWCTD Low
Care Label
Size Label
Qty
Season: F10
Fabric Content: 98% Cotton, 2% Spandex
Placement Details
Sketch
1
Center back waist inside
Flat-stitch all around
1
Center back waist inside (below main label)
Flat edge caught into seam
Include size on care label
Country of Origin: China
Notes:
Code
A
B
C
D
E
EE1
EE2
EE3
F
FF1
Specification
Waist (relaxed) TM
Low Hip (3’from crotch) TM
Front Rise (incl. waistband)
Back Rise (incl. waistband)
Thigh (1” down from crotch) TM
Knee (14 ½ below crotch) TM
Bottom Opening TM
Cuff (L)
Inseam
Outseam (excl. waistband)
Size
32 ½
40
9
14 ¼
22
18
21
2
32 ½
40 ½
Revised
Code
AA1
AA2
AA3
G
GG1
GG2
GG3
GG4
GG5
Specification
Belt Loop (L x W)
Waistband Depth
Fly Front (L x W, excl. waistband)
Front Pocket from Waist
Front Pocket from SS
Watch pocket (L x W)
Back Pocket (L x W)
Back Pocket from Waist (incl. waistband)
Back Pocket from CB
Size
N/A
1½
6½x 1½
2½
4½
N/A
5x1
3½
1¼
Revised
Page 89
DETAIL AND SIZE SPECIFICATION SHEET
Season: F10
Style #: S200 Misses Boot Cut 5-Pocket Jean
Labels
Type/Ref#
Main Label
BJML - Button Jeans,
Love Your Button Jeans
(Woven)
Woven – MWCTD Low
Care Label
Size Label
Qty
Fabric Content: 98% Cotton, 2% Spandex
Placement Details
Sketch
1
Center back waist inside
Flat-stitch all around
1
Center back waist inside (below main label)
Flat edge caught into seam
Include size on care label
Country of Origin: China
Notes:
Code
A
B
C
D
E
EE1
EE2
F
FF1
Specification
Waist (relaxed) TM
Low Hip (3’from crotch) TM
Front Rise (incl. waistband)
Back Rise (incl. waistband)
Thigh (1” down from crotch) TM
Knee (14 ½ below crotch) TM
Bottom Opening TM
Inseam
Outseam (excl. waistband)
Size
32 ½
40
9
14 ¼
22
16
17
32 ½
40 ½
Revised
Code
AA1
AA2
AA3
G
GG1
GG2
GG3
GG4
GG5
GG6
Specification
Belt Loop (L x W)
Waistband Depth
Fly Front (L x W, excl. waistband)
Front Pocket from Waist
Front Pocket from SS
Watch pocket (L x W)
Back Pocket (L x W)
Back Pocket from Waist (incl. waistband)
Back Pocket from CB
Pocket Flap (L x W)
Size
2x½
1½
6½x 1½
2½
4½
3½x 3
5¾x6
3½
1¼
5¾x1½
Revised
Page 90
DETAIL AND SIZE SPECIFICATION SHEET
Season: F10
Style #: S300 Misses Boyfriend 5-Pocket Jean
Labels
Type/Ref#
Main Label
BJML - Button Jeans,
Love Your Button Jeans
(Woven)
Woven – MWCTD Low
Care Label
Size Label
Qty
Fabric Content: 98% Cotton, 2% Spandex
Placement Details
Sketch
1
Center back waist inside
Flat-stitch all around
1
Center back waist inside (below main label)
Flat edge caught into seam
Include size on care label
Country of Origin: China
Notes:
Code
A
B
C
D
E
EE1
EE2
EE3
F
FF1
Specification
Waist (relaxed) TM
Low Hip (3’from crotch) TM
Front Rise (incl. waistband)
Back Rise (incl. waistband)
Thigh (1” down from crotch) TM
Knee (14 ½ below crotch) TM
Bottom Opening TM
Cuff (L)
Inseam
Outseam (excl. waistband)
Size
32 ½
40
9
14 ¼
22
17 ½
19
2
32 ½
40 ½
Revised
Code
AA1
AA2
AA3
G
GG1
GG2
GG3
GG4
GG5
Specification
Belt Loop (L x W)
Waistband Depth
Fly Front (L x W, excl. waistband)
Front Pocket from Waist
Front Pocket from SS
Watch pocket (L x W)
Back Pocket (L x W)
Back Pocket from Waist (incl. waistband)
Back Pocket from CB
Size
2x½
1½
6½x 1½
2½
4½
3½x 3
5¾x6
3½
1¼
Revised
Page 91
DETAIL AND SIZE SPECIFICATION SHEET
Style #: S400 Misses 5-Pocket Modified Skinny Jean
Labels
Type/Ref#
Main Label
BJML - Button Jeans,
Love Your Button Jeans
(Woven)
Woven – MWCTD Low
Care Label
Size Label
Qty
Season: F10
Fabric Content: 98% Cotton, 2% Spandex
Placement Details
Sketch
1
Center back waist inside
Flat-stitch all around
1
Center back waist inside (below main label)
Flat edge caught into seam
Include size on care label
Country of Origin: China
Notes:
Code
A
B
C
D
E
EE1
EE2
EE3
F
FF1
Specification
Waist (relaxed) TM
Low Hip (3’from crotch) TM
Front Rise (incl. waistband)
Back Rise (incl. waistband)
Thigh (1” down from crotch) TM
Knee (14 ½ below crotch) TM
Bottom Opening TM
Leg Side Split
Inseam
Outseam (excl. waistband)
Size
32 ½
40
9
14 ¼
22
14 ½
13
4
32 ½
40 ½
Revised
Code
AA1
AA2
AA3
G
GG1
GG2
GG3
GG4
GG5
Specification
Belt Loop (L x W)
Waistband Depth
Fly Front (L x W, excl. waistband)
Front Pocket from Waist
Front Pocket from SS
Watch pocket (L x W)
Back Pocket (L x W)
Back Pocket from Waist (incl. waistband)
Back Pocket from CB
Size
2x½
1½
6½x 1½
2½
4½
3½x 3
5¾x6
3½
1¼
Revised
Page 92
DETAIL AND SIZE SPECIFICATION SHEET
Style #: S500 Misses Long Sleeve V-Neck w/ Draped Front
Fabric Content: 100% Cotton
Labels
Type/Ref#
Main Label
BJML - Button Jeans
(Printed)
1
Center back neck inside
Tagless Printed
Care Label
Printed – MWCTD Low
1
Center back neck inside (below main label)
Tagless Printed
Size Label
Qty
Season: F10
Placement Details
Sketch
Include size with care information
Country of Origin: China
Notes:
Code
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
Specification
Front Length
Side Length
Chest Width
Across Shoulder
Across Chest
Bottom Opening TM
Sleeve Opening Width TM
Neck Depth x Width
Neck, Band and Sleeve Cuff
Size L
23 ¼
15 ½
18 ½
15 ½
15 ¾
39
9
7 ½ x 11
½
Revised
Code
J
K
L
M
N
Specification
Sleeve Length Top Armhole
Sleeve Length Underarm
Muscle Width
Elbow Width
Back Length
Size
Revised
24
19
6 1/2
5
23 ¼
Page 93
DETAIL AND SIZE SPECIFICATION SHEET
Style #: S600 Misses ¾ Length Sleeve Ruched Scoop-Neck w/ Banded Waist
Labels
Type/Ref#
Main Label
BJML - Button Jeans
(Printed)
1
Center back neck inside
Tagless Printed
Care Label
Printed – MWCTD Low
1
Center back neck inside (below main label)
Tagless Printed
Size Label
Qty
Season: F10
Placement Details
Fabric Content: 100% Cotton
Sketch
Include size with care information
Country of Origin: China
Notes:
Code
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
Specification
Front Length
Side Length
Chest Width
Across Shoulder
Across Chest
Bottom Opening TM
Sleeve Opening Width TM
Neck Depth x Width
Waistband Height
Size L
23 ¼
15 ½
18 ½
15 ½
15 ¾
39
9
6 x 11
2
Revised
Code
J
K
L
M
N
Specification
Sleeve Length Top Armhole
Sleeve Length Underarm
Muscle Width
Elbow Width
Back Length
Size
Revised
17
12 ½
6 1/2
5
23 ¼
Page 94
DETAIL AND SIZE SPECIFICATION SHEET
Season: F10
Style #: S700 Misses ¾ Length Sleeve w/ Faux Shrug Overlay
Labels
Type/Ref#
Main Label
BJML - Button Jeans
(Printed)
1
Center back neck inside
Tagless Printed
Care Label
Printed – MWCTD Low
1
Center back neck inside (below main label)
Tagless Printed
Size Label
Qty
Placement Details
Fabric Content: 100% Cotton
Sketch
Include size with care information
Country of Origin: China
Notes:
Code
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
Specification
Front Length
Side Length
Chest Width
Across Shoulder
Across Chest
Bottom Opening TM
Sleeve Opening Width TM
Neck Depth x Width
Neck, Band and Sleeve Cuff
Size L
23 ¼
15 ½
18 ½
15 ½
15 ¾
39
9
6x8
½
Revised
Code
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
Q
Specification
Sleeve Length Top Armhole
Sleeve Length Underarm
Muscle Width
Elbow Width
Back Length
Faux Shrug Length from Underarm
Faux Shrug Length from Top Armhole
Faux Shrug Width (3 in. from hem)
Size
Revised
17
12 ½
6 1/2
5
23 ¼
12
20
5
Page 95
Size Spec Sheet: Justifications Size Specification for Styles #S100, #S200, #S300, and #S400 Main Label: The main label will be located in the center back of the waistband (inside) and will be a flat‐stitch all around label. It will be woven in order to provide wearers with a nicer‐made tag and maximum comfort (all edges sewn down). The tag will read: “Button Jeans – Love Your Button Jeans.” Care Label: The care label will be attached directly beneath the main label and be located in the back of the waistband (inside). It will be a flat edge caught into seam label. This tag will also be woven in order to match the above main label and be consistent with the overall look. Size Label: The size of the jeans will be included at the very top of the care label before the care instructions. Measurement Justifications: The measurements for the jeans were all taken from size 10 women’s jeans. The measurements were adjusted depending on the various styles and designs (i.e. belt loops, pockets, knee widths, and leg openings). The Misses Trouser 4‐
Pocket Jeans (#S100) do not have belt loops, have a wider leg and knee, and have slash back pockets and side‐slash front pockets. The Misses Boot Cut 5‐Pocket Jeans (#S200) have basic belt loops, average knee and leg openings, and flap button closure patch pockets on the back. The Misses Boyfriend 5‐Pocket Jeans (#S300) have basic belt loops, slightly wider than average knee and leg openings, and basic back pockets. Lastly, the Misses 5‐Pocket Modified Skinny Jeans (#S400) have basic belt loops, smaller knee and leg openings, and basic back pockets. Page 96
Size Specification for Styles #S500, #S600, and #S700 Main Label: The main label will be located in the center back of the neck (inside) and will be a tagless printed label. It will be printed in order to provide wearers with extreme comfort and simplicity. The tag will read: “Button Jeans.” The “Love Your Button Jeans” phrase will not appear on the line of T‐shirts. Care Label: The care label will also be printed and located directly beneath the main label. It will match the main label and be consistent with the overall look. Size Label: The size of the T‐shirt will be printed and included before the care instructions and after the main label. Measurement Justifications: The measurements for the T‐shirts were all taken from size L women’s T‐shirts. The measurements were adjusted depending on the various styles and designs (i.e. sleeve lengths, necklines, and hems). The Misses Long Sleeve V‐Neck w/ Draped Front (#S500) has long sleeves, a V‐neck, and basic hems. The Misses ¾ Length Sleeve Ruched Scoop Neck w/ Banded Waist (S#600) has ¾ length sleeves, a scoop neck, and a wider waistband. Lastly, the Misses ¾ Length Sleeve w/ Faux Shrug Overlay (S#700) has ¾ length sleeves, a narrower scoop neck, basic hems, and various additional measurements for the fabric overlay. Page 97
Cost Sheets Page 98
COST SHEET
Style #: S100
Date: 02/01/10
Description: Misses Trouser 4-Pocket Jean
Season: F10
Fabric: #F0002 - 12.5 oz. Nostalgic STR Denim, #F0004 – 3.5 oz. Cotton Broadcloth
Size
Size Scale
2
1
Material
Denim 52” wide
Pocket Lining
44” wide
Total Material
Trim/Findings
Buttons
Zipper
Clasps
Thread
Main Label
Care Label
Hang Tag
Packaging
Total Trim
Labor
Cutting/Sewing
Total Labor
Shipping
Duty
Overhead
4
1
6
2
Yardage
1.5
.5
8
2
10
2
12
2
Price
$3.99
$1.60
14
1
16
1
Sketch
Cost
$5.99
$0.80
$6.79
Quantity
1
1
2
N/A
1
1
1
1
Price
.10
.12
.13
.15
.05
.02
.04
.15
Cost
.10
.12
.26
.15
.05
.02
.04
.15
$0.89
Cost
$1.50
$1.50
Description
$8.00 per dozen
16.6% of labor/material
18% of cost
Cost
$0.67
$1.52
$1.65
Total Manufacturing Cost: $13.02
Markup: 60.5%
Retail Price: $33.00
Page 99
COST SHEET
Style #: S200
Date: 02/01/10
Description: Misses Boot Cut 5-Pocket Jean
Season: F10
Fabric: #F0002 - 12.5 oz. Nostalgic STR Denim, #F0004 – 3.5 oz. Cotton Broadcloth
Size
Size Scale
2
1
Material
Denim 52” wide
Pocket Lining
44” wide
Total Material
Trim/Findings
Buttons
Zipper
Rivets
Thread
Main Label
Care Label
Hang Tag
Packaging
Total Trim
Labor
Cutting/Sewing
Total Labor
Shipping
Duty
Overhead
4
1
6
2
Yardage
1.375
.5
8
2
10
2
12
2
Price
$3.99
$1.60
14
1
16
1
Sketch
Cost
$5.49
$0.80
$6.29
Quantity
3
1
9
N/A
1
1
1
1
Price
.16
.12
.05
.15
.05
.02
.04
.15
Cost
.48
.12
.45
.15
.05
.02
.04
.15
$1.46
Cost
$1.50
$1.50
Description
$8.00 per dozen
16.6% of labor/material
18% of cost
Cost
$0.67
$1.54
$1.67
Total Manufacturing Cost: $13.13
Markup: 60.2%
Retail Price: $33.00
Page 100
COST SHEET
Style #: S300
Date: 02/01/10
Description: Misses Boyfriend 5-Pocket Jean
Season: F10
Fabric: #F0001 - 9 oz. Distressed Blue Denim, #F0004 – 3.5 oz. Cotton Broadcloth
Size
Size Scale
2
1
Material
Denim 52” wide
Pocket Lining
44” wide
Total Material
Trim/Findings
Buttons
Zipper
Rivets
Thread
Main Label
Care Label
Hang Tag
Packaging
Total Trim
Labor
Cutting/Sewing
Total Labor
Shipping
Duty
Overhead
4
1
6
2
Yardage
1.625
.5
8
2
10
2
12
2
Price
$3.99
$1.60
14
1
16
1
Sketch
Cost
$6.48
$0.80
$7.28
Quantity
1
1
9
N/A
1
1
1
1
Price
.16
.12
.05
.15
.05
.02
.04
.15
Cost
.16
.12
.45
.15
.05
.02
.04
.15
$1.14
Cost
$1.50
$1.50
Description
$8.00 per dozen
16.6% of labor/material
18% of cost
Cost
$0.67
$1.65
$1.79
Total Manufacturing Cost: $14.03
Markup: 61.0%
Retail Price: $36.00
Page 101
COST SHEET
Style #: S400
Date: 02/01/10
Description: Misses 5-Pocket Modified Skinny Jean
Season: F10
Fabric: #F0001 - 9 oz. Distressed Blue Denim, #F0004 – 3.5 oz. Cotton Broadcloth
Size
Size Scale
2
1
Material
Denim 52” wide
Pocket Lining
44” wide
Total Material
Trim/Findings
Buttons
Zipper
Rivets
Thread
Main Label
Care Label
Hang Tag
Packaging
Total Trim
Labor
Cutting/Sewing
Total Labor
Shipping
Duty
Overhead
4
1
6
2
Yardage
1.25
.5
8
2
10
2
Price
$3.99
$1.60
12
2
14
1
16
1
Sketch
Cost
$4.99
$0.80
$5.79
Quantity
7
1
9
N/A
1
1
1
1
Price
.16
.12
.05
.15
.05
.02
.04
.15
Cost
1.12
.12
.45
.15
.05
.02
.04
.15
$2.10
Cost
$1.50
$1.50
Description
$8.00 per dozen
16.6% of labor/material
18% of cost
Cost
$0.67
$1.56
$1.69
Total Manufacturing Cost: $13.31
Markup: 60.9%
Retail Price: $34.00
Page 102
COST SHEET
Style #: S500
Description: Misses Long Sleeve V-Neck w/ Draped Front
Fabric: # F0003 – 6 oz. Cotton Knit
Size
Size Scale
S
2
Material
Cotton 60” wide
Total Material
Trim/Findings
Main Label
Care Label
Hang Tag
Packaging
M
4
L
4
Quantity
1
1
1
1
Sketch
XL
2
Yardage
1.5
Price
$4.75
Price
.05
.02
.04
.15
Cost
$7.13
$7.13
Cost
.05
.02
.04
.15
$0.26
Total Trim
Labor
Cutting/Sewing
Total Labor
Shipping
Duty
Overhead
Date: 02/01/10
Season: F10
Cost
$1.50
$1.50
Description
$4.00 per dozen
16.6% of labor/material
18% of cost
Cost
$0.33
$1.48
$1.60
Total Manufacturing Cost: $12.30
Markup: 60.3%
Retail Price: $31.00
Page 103
COST SHEET
Style #: S600
Description: Misses ¾ Length Sleeve Ruched Scoop-Neck w/ Banded Waist
Fabric: # F0003 – 6 oz. Cotton Knit
Size
Size Scale
S
2
Material
Cotton 60” wide
Total Material
Trim/Findings
Main Label
Care Label
Hang Tag
Packaging
M
4
L
4
Quantity
1
1
1
1
Sketch
XL
2
Yardage
1.25
Price
$4.75
Price
.05
.02
.04
.15
Cost
$5.94
$5.94
Cost
.05
.02
.04
.15
$0.26
Total Trim
Labor
Cutting/Sewing
Total Labor
Shipping
Duty
Overhead
Date: 02/01/10
Season: F10
Cost
$1.50
$1.50
Description
$4.00 per dozen
16.6% of labor/material
18% of cost
Cost
$0.33
$1.28
$1.39
Total Manufacturing Cost: $10.70
Markup: 60.4%
Retail Price: $27.00
Page 104
COST SHEET
Style #: S700
Description: Misses ¾ Length Sleeve w/ Faux Shrug Overlay
Fabric: # F0003 – 6 oz. Cotton Knit
Size
Size Scale
S
2
Material
Cotton 60” wide
Total Material
Trim/Findings
Main Label
Care Label
Hang Tag
Packaging
M
4
L
4
Quantity
1
1
1
1
Sketch
XL
2
Yardage
1.625
Price
$4.75
Price
.05
.02
.04
.15
Cost
$7.72
$7.72
Cost
.05
.02
.04
.15
$0.26
Total Trim
Labor
Cutting/Sewing
Total Labor
Shipping
Duty
Overhead
Date: 02/01/10
Season: F10
Cost
$1.50
$1.50
Description
$4.00 per dozen
16.6% of labor/material
18% of cost
Cost
$0.33
$1.57
$1.71
Total Manufacturing Cost: $13.09
Markup: 60.3%
Retail Price: $33.00
Page 105
Cost Sheet: Justifications Logo Buttons – Style #S200, S#300, #S400 The button price was provided by [http://www.trimfabric.com/wholesale‐buttons‐
1.html]. On this site, a bag contains 48 buttons and is priced at $7.50; therefore one button costs $0.16 approximately. These buttons are listed as designer shank buttons so they should be similar in price to the cost of our logo buttons. Buttons – Style #S100 The button price was provided by [http://www.trimfabric.com/wholesale‐buttons‐
1.html]. On this site, a bag contains 72 buttons and is priced at $7.50; therefore one button costs $0.10 approximately. These buttons are very basic so they should be similar in price to the cost of our hidden waistband button on the Trouser Jeans. Clasps – Style #S100 Joann Fabric & Crafts provided the wholesale price for the clasps. At retail, 12 clasps cost $3.99; therefore each clasp at wholesale would cost $0.13 approximately. Rivets – Style #S200, #S300, #S400 Joann Fabric & Crafts provided the wholesale price for the rivets. At retail, 60 rivets cost $6.99; therefore each rivet at wholesale would cost $0.05 approximately. Zippers – Style #S100, #S200, #S300, #S400 The zipper price was provided by [http://www.ctsusa.com/_e/dept/08‐
008/Wholesale_Zippers.htm]. On this site, 4,000 zippers are available for purchase at $480; therefore, the cost of one zipper at wholesale is $0.12 approximately. Page 106
Thread, Main Label, Care Label, Hang Tag, and Packaging – All styles All of the items above were priced according to the given amounts listed in the Perry’s Departments Store Textbook. The hang tag that will be on the Button Jeans merchandise will be basic and not exceed the cost of $0.04 in order to keep the prices lower for consumers. Yardage The following data was collected from the Butterick book of patterns. For the jeans, the yardage for size 10 jeans was used in keeping with the average size that was also the basis of the size specification sheets. #S100 Size Yardage #S200 Size Yardage #S300 Size Yardage #S400 Size Yardage Trouser Jeans – page 2958 “Pants D” 6‐8 10 12 14 1 ½ 1 ½ 1 ⅝ 1 ⅝ Boot Cut Jeans – page 2954 “Pants” 6‐8 10 12 14 1 ⅜ 1 ⅜ 1 ⅜ 1 ⅝ Boyfriend Jeans – page 2951 “Pants E” 8 10 12 14 1 ⅝ 1 ⅝ 1 ⅝ 1 ⅞ Skinny Jeans – page 2944 “Pants D” 8 10 12 14 1 ¼ 1 ¼ 1 ⅜ 1 ½ 16 1 ¾ 16 2 16 2 ⅛ 16 1 ¾ *Pockets = ½ yard for all jeans Page 107
For the T‐shirts, the yardage for a size 12 top was used in keeping with the average size that was also the basis of the size specification sheets. (In womenswear, a size 12 top is approximately equivalent to a size Large.) #S500 Size Yardage Long Sleeve Top – page 1476 “Misses Top C” 6‐8 10 12 14 1 ¼ 1 ⅜ 1 ½ 1 ½ 16 1 ½ ¾ Length Sleeve Top – page 1496 “Misses Top B” 8 10 12 14 1 ¼ 1 ¼ 1 ¼ 1 ⅜ 16 1 ⅜ #S600 Size Yardage #S700 Size Yardage Shrug Blouse – page 1480 “Misses Blouse C” 6‐8 10 12 14 1 ⅜ 1 ⅝ 1 ⅝ 1 ¾ 16 1 ¾ Retail Prices When determining the retail prices, first a 60% markup was used. Then the retail price was rounded up to the nearest whole number to ensure that each price ended in [$__.00]. Lastly, the exact markup was calculated. Perry’s believes that the retail prices for their private label brand are all reasonable and affordable. The T‐shirts may appear to be somewhat pricey at first glance, yet since they are “fashion T‐shirts” and include double layered fronts for the hiding of figure imperfections, the price points are appropriate. *JoAnn Fabric and Crafts wholesale prices were determined using the assumption of a 60% markup. Page 108
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Page 109
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