formulas for colorful success - Beth Minardi Signature Haircolor

Formulas for
Colorful Success
Table of contents
The Basics
Beth Minardi Signature Color
4-5
Beth Minardi Signature Palettes
6-7
Beth's Guideline to Starting Level
Beth's Color Essentials
9
10
The FORMULAS
Gray Coverage Formulas 11 - 12
Permanent Crème Formulas
13 - 14
Demi-Permanent Crème and Liquid Formulas
15 - 16
The TECHNIQUES
Multidimensional Techniques
17 - 20
The EXTRAS
Color Fixes 21 - 22
Secret Formulas & Tips 23 - 24
INTRODUCING
BETH MINARDI SIGNATURE
A collection of unparalled haircoloring shades designed to put superior, profitable color
within the reach of every haircolor professional! The collection includes permanent
crème color and two types of demi-permanent color: an alkaline demi crème AND an
acid-balanced demi liquid.
For more than 30 years, Beth Minardi has dedicated her career to the elevation of
haircolor to an artform. How? By bringing a higher level of haircolor knowledge back
into the salon with products, methods and techniques salon professionals only dreamed
of before.
“Beth Minardi Signature shades
are the collection you need to
create the success you and your
clients deserve. Now, you can
deliver the superior color and
conditioning that your most
discerning color clients expect
every time.”—Beth Minardi
THE BASICS beth minardi signature color
THE BASICS
Beth Minardi Signature Color
Beth Minardi Signature
Permanent Crème Color
(With Lift and Deposit)
•100% gray coverage
•Long-lasting color with Phyto-collagen and Ceramide 2 technology for
maximum conditioning
•Fresh citrus zest and jasmine fragrances minimize traditional odor
•Use to enhance, change or lighten naturally pigmented hair
•Create a permanent color change that is lighter than, darker than or matches
natural hair color
Beth Minardi Signature
Demi-Permanent Crème Color
(No Lift. Deposit Only.)
•A luxurious combination of oxidative and direct dyes for the most brilliant
color results
•Alkaline pH and Ceramide 2 technology deliver intense shine and conditioning
•Alkaline pH provides solid gray coverage on clients with any percentage of gray
•Use to deepen natural or current color; erase unwanted blonde highlights;
create dimensional lowlights; or tone prelightened hair
4
THE BASICS beth minardi signature color
THE BASICS
Beth Minardi Signature Color
Beth Minardi Signature
Demi-Permanent Liquid Color
(No Lift. Deposit Only.)
•Formulated with Ceramide 2 for healthy, conditioned, superior shine results
•Provides flawless blending and high-shine results on clients with finer
textures of gray hair
•Optimal viscosity to prevent dripping on clients
•Use to refresh faded hair lengths; perform tint backs; glaze and gloss; tone
highlights or enhance natural color
Beth Minardi Signature
The Dual Demi-Permanent System
•The perfect color combination when no lift is desired*
• Makes hair feel better—improves texture and comb-ability, making even
damaged hair silky and smooth*
•Softens hair*
*Versus untreated damaged hair before color service.
5
THE BASICS permanent créme color palette
THE BASICS
Beth Minardi Signature Palette
31 intermixable shades + "See Thru" (Clear)
PERMANENT CRÈME COLOR (WITH LIFT AND DEPOSIT)
LEVEL
ICE
3
FROZEN
4
STARRY NIGHT
5
BLUE MOON
Balanced
Brown/Blonde
GOLD
COPPER
RED
3ICE
3R
ELECTRIC CHERRY
MEDIUM
BROWN
4ICE
4BB
4BC
OAK
NUTMEG
4CC
INDIAN SUNSET
4R
HEAT
LIGHT
BROWN
5ICE
5BB
TRUE BRUNETTE
5NGC
5BRO
IRISH SETTER
WHISKEY
LIGHTEST
BROWN
6BB
BEECHWOOD
6
6G
GOLDEN SABLE
6NCB
FAWN
6CCR
I’M ON FIRE
6RC
RED CARPET RED
DEEP
BLONDE
7
7ICE
7NGC
DEEP FREEZE
GOLDEN RUSSET
7OG
VALENCIA
7COR
ORANGE POPPY
MEDIUM
BLONDE
8BB
BRÛLÉE
8
8BG
CRÈME SODA
LIGHT
BLONDE
9
9ICE
9BG
SUB-ZERO
CHARDONNAY
VERY LIGHT
BLONDE
10BB
LAGUNA BEACH
10
10GG
GOLDILOCKS
LIGHTEST
BLONDE
11GO
CREAMSICLE
11
VERY PALE
BLONDE
12
PALEST
BLONDE
6
12ICE
ICE AGE
12BB
ANTARCTICA
8G
APPLE CIDER
8RG
AUTUMN HARVEST
THE BASICS demi-permanent créme color palette
THE BASICS
Beth Minardi Signature Palette
21 intermixable shades + "See Thru" (Clear)
DEMI-PERMANENT CRÈME COLOR (NO LIFT. DEPOSIT ONLY.)
LEVEL
ICE
3
DARK SHADOWS
3ICE
Balanced
Brown/Blonde
GOLD
COPPER
3BB
RED
3BR
DARK CHOCOLATE
BALSAMIC
MEDIUM
BROWN
4BC
4BG
SPICE
EARTH
4
LIGHT
BROWN
5GB
5CB
RUM RAISIN
SEPIA
5
LIGHTEST
BROWN
6ICE
6
ARCTIC ECLIPSE
7
STERLING
8
SAPPHIRE ICE
6BB
BARK
6BG
CINNAMON TOAST
6GBB
6BR
MAPLE
CHERRY MOCHA
DEEP
BLONDE
7ICE
7NCG
PEACH BELLINI
MEDIUM
BLONDE
8ICE
8BB
DYNAMITE
BAMBOO
ORANGE
8RC
PACIFIC SUNSET
LIGHT
BLONDE
9BG
CORNSILK
9
9GO
ORANGE JUICE
VERY LIGHT
BLONDE
10
10BB
EGGSHELL
LIGHTEST
BLONDE
11
VERY PALE
BLONDE
12
PALEST
BLONDE
7
SEE THRU
CLEAR
THE BASICS demi-permanent créme liquid color palette
THE BASICS
Beth Minardi Signature Palette
21 intermixable shades + "Invisible" (Clear)
DEMI-PERMANENT liquid COLOR (NO LIFT. DEPOSIT ONLY.)
LEVEL
ICE
Balanced
Brown/Blonde
GOLD
COPPER
RED
3
MEDIUM
BROWN
4BB
4
4RR
4BC
COCOA FONDUE
BURNISHED GINGER
RASPBERRY CRUSH
LIGHT
BROWN
5ICE
5
5CG
GRANITE
COGNAC
LIGHTEST
BROWN
6NB
6B
SUEDE
6
6RCC
6CG
BAMBI
LIGHT MY FIRE
MANGO
DEEP
BLONDE
7
7ICE
SLATE
7NB
7BG
PRALINE
SUNFLOWER
MEDIUM
BLONDE
8BB
PARCHMENT
8
8GN
8WG
GINGER ALE
SEA SHELL
8C
TANGERINE DREAM
LIGHT
BLONDE
9NB
ALMOND PARFAIT
9
VERY LIGHT
BLONDE
10
10ICE
HI-HO SILVER
10BB
IN THE BUFF
10G
BUTTERCREAM
10C
PEACH CHIFFON
LIGHTEST
BLONDE
11
VERY PALE
BLONDE
INVISIBLE
12
PALEST
BLONDE
8
CLEAR
THE BASICS beth's guideline to starting level
THE BASICS
Beth’s Guideline to Starting Level
Each formula in this book is specifically recommended for a certain “starting level”,
based on the client’s base, natural haircolor level or regrowth. Please use Beth's chart
below as a guide to determine your client’s natural starting level.
Level FINDER
1
2
3
4
5
Black
Dark brown
Medium brown
Light Brown
Lightest Brown
6
7
8
9
10
Deep blonde
Medium blonde
Light blonde
Very light
blonde
Lightest Blonde
25%
9
Gray Level
50%
75%
90%
THE BASICS beth's color essentials
THE BASICS
Beth’s Color Essentials
These are the tools Beth can’t live and color without!
Applicator Bottle
Brushes
Bowl
“I prefer a softer bottle that is
narrow. These bottles are designed
for ease of application.”
“I like using a smaller tint brush
rather than a large one. The smaller
tint brush increases your accuracy,
plus it’s easier to use.”
“I prefer a clear bowl that
allows you to accurately see the
formula as you work.”
Foils
Tail Comb
Single Prong Clips
“Foils should be light, flexible and of
various sizes. Long foils are perfect
for longer hair lengths because
less folding is required and hair
will not become tangled.”
“I always use a plastic rattail comb.”
“I fold foil from one side only, then
secure with the flattest possible
metal clip. Single prong clips are also
easier to remove at the sink.”
Plastic Cap
“Plastic caps are essential to protect the hair when using a hood dryer.”
Coiled Cotton
“Wonderfully protects the hairline and prevents any possible seepage.”
Roll-About Cart with shelves for storage
"This stainless steel ‘buddy’ follows me around all day."
My special electric hydraulic chair
‘It pumps down, allowing me to easy access to the top of the head without straining.”
The rubber mat
"I stand on this while I work to save my legs and back.”
10
THE FORMULAS gray coverage formulas
THE FORMULAS
Beth’s Favorite BB Formulas for
Perfect Gray Coverage
LEMON MERINGUE
“Produces a rich blonde highlight or gorgeous base shade.”
Ideal for Starting Level: 5 and lighter with up to 75% gray
PROCESSING TIME: 30-45 minutes at Room Temperature
Formula:
1½ oz
+ ½ oz
+
2 oz
20 Volume Developer
MOCHACCINO
“A very deep, cool, dramatic brown.”
Ideal for Starting Level: 2-3 with up to 60% gray
PROCESSING TIME: 30-45 minutes at Room Temperature
Formula:
1 oz
11
+ 1 oz
+
2 oz
20 Volume Developer
THE FORMULAS gray coverage formulas
THE FORMULAS
Beth’s Favorite BB Formulas for
Perfect Gray Coverage
PERFECT ASH BLONDE
“Controls warmth with rich, balanced tonal deposit. Do not apply to extremely
lightened hair lengths.”
Ideal for Starting Level: 5-7 with up to 95% gray
PROCESSING TIME: 30-45 minutes at Room Temperature
Formula:
1 oz
+ 1 oz
+
2 oz
20 Volume Developer
SUN-KISSED AUBURN
“A gorgeous and effective gray coverage formula.”
Ideal for Starting Level: 3-6 with up to 25% gray
PROCESSING TIME: 30-45 minutes at Room Temperature
Formula:
1 oz
12
+ 1 oz
+
2 oz
20 Volume Developer
THE FORMULAS permanent crème formulas
THE FORMULAS
Beth’s Favorite Permanent Crème Formulas
LIGHTLY TOASTED
“Wonderful when applied to natural levels 5-9. This formula creates creamy, shimmering
warm blonde tones and covers gray beautifully. Also great as a "hot tan" highlight when
woven into natural level 4 (light brown) hair."
PROCESSING TIME: 30-45 minutes at Room Temperature
Formula:
1¼ oz
+ ¾ oz
+
2 oz
20 Volume Developer
GETTING WARMER
“Creates simmering, super-rich golden blonde on levels 5-8. Also a perfect highlighter
when wrapped into lighter levels of natural brown. Covers gray hair to a very warm
golden-strawberry. A very fashion-forward formula for the woman who has a ‘blonde
soul!’”
PROCESSING TIME: 30-45 minutes at Room Temperature
Formula:
1 oz
13
+ 1 oz
+
2 oz
20 Volume Developer
THE FORMULAS permanent crème formulas
THE FORMULAS
Beth’s Favorite Permanent Crème Formulas
CINNAMON TWIST
“Delivers rich, warm, dramatic tone to ‘ho-hum’ ashy or neutral brunette hair. Think
of the rich, warm auburn tones infused throughout hair at the Oscars. Covers gray
beautifully with a luxurious auburn. Infuses deeper natural brunettes with slightly
lighter, cinnamon-toned sheen.”
PROCESSING TIME: 30-45 minutes at Room Temperature
Formula:
1 oz
+ 1 oz
+
2 oz
20 Volume Developer
SHEER GOLDEN VANILLA
“Transforms deeper shades of natural blonde into a softest light tan/champagne with
plenty of shimmer and sheerest golden highlight. Also provides an amazing highlight
formula when woven into natural deepest blonde or lightest brown, ashy hair.”
PROCESSING TIME: 30-45 minutes at Room Temperature
Formula:
1½ oz
14
+ ½ oz
THE FORMULAS demi-permanent crème formulas
THE FORMULAS
Beth’s Favorite DEMI-Permanent Crème
Formulas
PALE HONEY
“Covers gray hair to a soft, sophisticated warm light blonde. Great as a lowlighting
formula on hair that has been blonded to a ‘too light/too cool’ shade.”
PROCESSING TIME:
•To very effectively blend gray: process with heat for 20 minutes, then continue processing
at room temperature for 20 minutes.
•For Lowlights: Process for 30 minutes after wrapping the last foil.
•To Tone Prelightened Hair: apply to root area for 8-12 minutes.
Formula:
NEW
NEW
+ ½ oz
1½ oz
+
2 oz
5 Volume Developer
CHAMPAGNE
“One of the BEST toners for blonde hair that has been prelightened to pale yellow; hair
remains light blonde but has a ‘cashmere finish’ of not too bright, softest yellow-beige.
Will blend 100% white hair to the very softest blonde tone. Also a fabulous lowlighting
go-to for blondes who are terrified of going ‘too dark.’”
PROCESSING TIME:
•To very effectively blend gray: process with heat for 20 minutes, then continue processing
at room temperature for 20 minutes.
•For lowlights: process for 30 minutes after wrapping the last foil.
•To tone prelightened hair: apply to root area for 8-12 minutes.
Formula:
NEW
1 oz
15
+ 1 oz
+
2 oz
5 Volume Developer
THE FORMULAS demi-permanent crème formulas
THE FORMULAS
Beth’s Favorite DEMI-Permanent Crème
Formulas
BITTERSWEET
“Mimics the rich, sophisticated warmth of bourbon with a twist of spice. Perfect
for reviving virgin brown hair’s luster as a lowlight, and a wonderful gray coverage
formula for those desiring a rich, warm, natural-looking auburn. One of my
FAVORITE lowlighting formulas for giving ashy brunettes a real bit of ‘oomph.’”
PROCESSING TIME:
•For gray coverage: heat for 20 minutes, then cool for 20 minutes.
•As a lowlight: process at Room Temperature for 30 minutes.
Formula:
1¾ oz
NEW
+ ¼ oz
+
2 oz
5 Volume Developer
CHERRY COGNAC
“Rich brown-red tone with a hefty helping of warmth! A real runway formula when
applied to denser textures of lightest brown for a fashion-forward chocolate-red result.
A great lowlight formula for adding incredibly rich dimension to any deep blonde or
brunette base. Also provides simply fabulous gray coverage with no lift for auburn/
red result.”
PROCESSING TIME:
•For gray coverage: heat for 20 minutes, then cool for 20 minutes.
•As a lowlight: process at Room Temperature for 30 minutes.
Formula:
1 oz
16
NEW
+ 1 oz
+
2 oz
5 Volume Developer
THE TECHNIQUES multidimensional techniques
THE TECHNIQUES
Beth’s Favorite Multidimensional Techniques
AMERICAN BALIAGE
Formula:
highlights
2 oz
+
2 oz
+
2 oz
20 Volume Developer
lowlights
2 oz
5 Volume Developer
How:
Beth Minardi Signature Permanent Crème Color 12 ICE in foils for highlights.
Beth Minardi Signature Demi-Permanent Crème Color 6GBB
(with 5 Volume developer) for lowlights. American Baliage technique.
17
THE TECHNIQUES multidimensional techniques
THE TECHNIQUES
Beth’s Favorite Multidimensional Techniques
ROLODEX BRUNETTE
Formula:
2 oz
2 oz
+
20 Volume Developer
2 oz
+
20 Volume Developer
2 oz
How:
Mark Mileti's Rolodex Wrap, alternating two formulas wrapped in foil throughout
the head: Foil 1: Beth Minardi Signature Permanent Crème Color 10GG (with equal parts
20 Volume developer); and Foil 2: Beth Minardi Signature Permanent Crème Color 10BB
(with equal parts of 20 Volume developer).
18
THE TECHNIQUES multidimensional techniques
THE TECHNIQUES
Beth’s Favorite Multidimensional Techniques
Dimensional Redhead
How
(on virgin brown, level 4 hair):
Equal parts Beth Minardi Signature Permanent Crème Color 5NGC and 7NGC
(with 20 Volume developer) for the root area. Hair shaft was immediately
enveloped with equal parts Beth Minardi Signature Permanent Crème Color
7COR and 8RG (with 20 Volume developer). Highlights (using Vero K-PAK
VeroLight Lightening Powder) were placed in the fringe area, then glazed with
equal parts Beth Minardi Signature Demi-Permanent Liquid 8C and 10C.
19
THE TECHNIQUES multidimensional techniques
THE TECHNIQUES
Beth’s Favorite Multidimensional Techniques
REWIND REDHEAD
Formula:
root area: To lighten and establish a red tone at the root area.
1 oz
+ 1 oz
+
2 oz
20 Volume Developer
Hair shaft: To brighten and establish brighter tone on virgin brown hair shaft.
1 oz
+ 1 oz
+
2 oz
20 Volume Developer
highlights
+
2 oz
20 Volume Developer
glaze
1 oz
20
+ 1 oz
+
2 oz
5 Volume Developer
THE EXTRAS beth's favorite color fixes
THE EXTRAS
Beth’s Favorite Color Fixes
Here are my favorite “fix-it” formulas for resolving the color issues I most frequently
encounter in the salon.
The Situation: Your client's hair is a "dull, flat-looking" medium or light brown.
The Fix: "Rev it up" with warm auburn-brown lowlights, created by mixing Beth Minardi
Signature Demi-Permanent Crème Color with 5 Volume developer.
PROCESSING TIME: After wrapping the last foil, process for 30 minutes at Room
Temperature.
1½ oz
+ ½ oz
+
2 oz
5 Volume Developer
The Situation: Client is 50% white and 50% dark or medium brown, but the
client wants to be SLIGHTLY lighter with rich gray coverage and NO RED.
The Fix: Mix Beth Minardi Signature Permanent Crème Color with equal parts
of 20 Volume developer and apply to root area.
PROCESSING TIME: Process at Room Temperature for 30-45 minutes.
1½ oz
21
+ ½ oz
+
2 oz
20 Volume Developer
THE EXTRAS beth's favorite color fixes
THE EXTRAS
Beth’s Favorite Color Fixes
The Situation: Client has deep blonde ashy hair with little or no gray. She has blue
or gray eyes and wants a rich light blonde that never looks brassy.
The Fix: Apply Beth Minardi Signature Permanent Crème Color mixed with equal parts
of 40 Volume developer and apply to the root area, taking 1 8-inch partings.
PROCESSING TIME: Process at Room Temperature for 60 minutes.
1 oz
+ 1 oz
+
2 oz
40 Volume Developer
The Situation: The client's brunette hair is beginning to gray. She desires a VERY
natural-looking, deepest blonde "blend".
The Fix: Apply Beth Minardi Signature Demi-Permanent Crème Color mixed with
5 Volume developer.
PROCESSING TIME: Process at Room Temperature for 30 minutes.
1 oz
22
+ 1 oz
+
2 oz
5 Volume Developer
THE EXTRAS secret formulas & tips from beth's team
THE EXTRAS
Secret Formulas & Tips
from Beth’s Team
"My favorite dimensional formulas right now involve a strong, golden highlight with a deep,
russet-brown lowlight.
On my natural blondes, I've been obsessed with the new Permanent Crème high-lift shade
12BB (Antarctica) + 20 Volume developer. I then lowlight with Demi-Permanent Crème 1 oz
9BG (Cornsilk) + 1 oz 9GO (Orange Juice) + 2 oz 5 Volume Developer.
There is just enough gold to warm up and enrichen the blonde without being too deep. The
highlight lifts clean and properly tones without appearing too ashy or brassy.
For my fabulous redheads who want to maintain depth, I lowlight with equal parts
Mark Mileti
Demi-Permanent Crème 3BR (Balsamic) + 8RC (Pacific Sunset) + 5 Volume Developer.
It infuses the hair with enough fire from the level 8 red copper, and the 3BR adds what I like
to call a ‘base note’ to the color, keeping it deep and rich.
For my lighter, more fiery reds, I add a ½ oz of Demi-Permanent Crème Dynamite ( Orange),
an explosive orange additive that gives the right amount of pop to your red colors without
being purple.
For my brunettes, I've recently been highlighting with 2 oz Permanent Crème 10GG
(Goldilocks) + 2 oz 40 Volume Developer. It gives the right amount of lift without exposing
too much warmth and leaves behind a beautiful strong gold tone. It works great on levels
5 and lighter. I love combining it with a strong lowlight, for example: equal parts DemiPermanent Crème 3BB (Dark Chocolate) + 5BC (Rum Raisin) + 5 Volume Developer.
I very rarely highlight without a lowlight. I feel you need a strong foundation for the
highlight to bounce off of, and the Beth Minardi Signature Demi-Permanent Crème shades
do that beautifully.
The biggest mistake many colorists make (and I made this mistake often in the beginning
of my career) is that we over-promise what we can deliver. Many times, especially during a
correction, we don't properly represent what we can do for our client. We should honestly
express how prolonged stress and abuse to the hair can limit the steps we can take that day.
This way, we won’t risk doing more harm or causing disappointment. Whether working alone
or with a stylist, prescribe the haircut, treatments and proper at home care. Before you begin
any color service, especially a hair color correction, respectfully ask your client to sign a
release form. Be honest. People appreciate that. Promise less. Deliver more."
23
THE EXTRAS secret formulas & tips from beth's team
THE EXTRAS
Secret Formulas & Tips
from Beth’s Team
“We nurture the talent at our salon with a training program that lasts six months to a year,
depending on the individual’s personal progress. They are guided and mentored by our
education directors and participate in both weekly and monthly training. I, myself, will take
a color driven professional and work with them on a daily basis. They learn not only how
to create beautiful color, but also how to grow and cultivate their own business: how to
effectively consult, how to understand the needs of a client and how to technically and
artistically achieve the end result.”
Charles “Buddy”
Dudley
“I never stop learning. I attend year-round classes, I read books on the subjects of business,
motivation and team building. I also make sure that I am aware of upcoming fashion trends
to help guide my clients and staff.
I begin all new and existing client appointments with a Color Dialogue. This helps set the
tone. Having a conversation at the beginning of each appointment allows the client to share
their thoughts and give me the opportunity to communicate what is realistic as well as what
I professionally recommend for their time in the salon and for an at-home care regimen.”
Sherry Ratay
24
THE EXTRAS secret formulas & tips from beth's team
THE EXTRAS
Secret Formulas & Tips
from Beth’s Team
“I specialize in blonding, so the high-lift Permanent Crème shades have become invaluable
to me. My blondes have never been healthier or shinier. The Beth Minardi methodology
offers so many techniques that are ideal for keeping my blonde clients coming back for
more, such as American Baliage, the Rolodex Wrap and Beth’s signature approach to double
processing. These techniques ensure client retention and will grow your business.”
Chloe Carpenter
“Only Beth Minardi Signature can deliver the condition, perfect gray coverage and
unforgettable hues my Upper West Side clients expect and demand. Plus, with a huge
palette of intermixable shades, I have everything I need and could ever want in a single line.
Although I love creating all shades of haircolor, I do have an affinity for reds. Maintaining
reds and keeping them vibrant-yet-elegant can be challenging. For bold, strong reds, I
like to layer the color by double glazing. To maintain dimension in softer shades, I prefer
lowlighting with a Demi-Permanent Crème.”
Gion Vincent
25
www.MinardiColor.com
Beth Minardi Signature®, Darien, CT 06820-1005
COLOR: Beth Minardi
PHOTO: Robert Lynden
J66750