docEDITED_Achieving Barrel Consistency 1015 AM
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EDITED_Achieving Barrel Consistency 1015 AM
Achieving Barrel Consistency Achieving Barrel Consistency Corey Beck – Moderator – President and Director of Winemaking Francis Ford Coppola Winery Dr. Marie-Laure Badet-Murat, Owner Enologie by MLM, Bordeaux Jeffrey Stambor, Director of Winemaking Beaulieu Vineyard Justin Seidenfeld, Winemaker Rodney Strong Vineyards Corey Beck - Moderator Francis Ford Coppola Winery Dr. Marie-Laure Badet-Murat Owner – Enologie by MLM, Bordeaux RELATION BETWEEN WOOD TANNIN POTENTIAL AND WINE QUALITY JC VICARD, ML BADET-MURAT A. WATRELOT, J. KENNEDY 1. OAK WOOD COMPOSITION TOASTING ² ² ² 90 ≈ 95 % QTT Time Temperature Humidity NON EXTRACTABLE Phénols (guaïcaol, eugenol) 10 ≈ 15 % EGT EGT LIGNINS Aldehydes (vanillin) EXTRACTABLE CELLULOSE HEMICELULLOSES WL (cis, trans) PHENOLS (eugenol) Furanic aldehydes (furfural, 5MF, 5HMF) Volatile thiols (FFT) Variable effect OAK QUALITY + TOASTING MANAGEMENT 2. OAK WOOD HETEROGENEITY èè Variability èè Inter-individual (differences between trees from the same forest & specie) + èè Within the same tree XXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXX XXXXXX Snakkers, 2000 ;; Doussot, 2000, 2002 ;; Feuillat, 2003, Prida, 2006 Masson et al, 1995, 1996 ; Mosedale et al., 1996 3. MANY SOURCES OF VARIABILITY! GENETIC VARIABILITY TIME SPECIE CLIMATE RAW MATERIAL SEASONING SYLVICULTURE GEOGRAPHIC ORIGIN TIME WINE & AGING PROCESS TOASTING TEMPERATURE HUMIDITY Collins TS et al, Tetrahedron (2015), doi: 10.1016/ j.tet.2015.02.079. A new approach to sort oak wood: TANNIN POTENTIAL (TP) • Measure ellagitannin content of EACH STAVE prior to coopering barrel using near-infrared spectrometry (NIRS). 1° High heterogeneity g EGT /g o f dry wood 10000.0 9000.0 8000.0 HTP (ENERGIE) 7000.0 6000.0 MTP (SYMETRIE) 5000.0 4000.0 3000.0 LTP (ORIGINE) 2000.0 1000.0 0.0 0 500 1000 1500 2000 2500 number o f p ieces 2° Partial correlation with grain Distribution of EGT level according to grain size Very fine grain number o f p ieces 700 600 500 FI 1,5-2 mm GR > 3 mm LTP HTP Fine grain LTP 400 300 HTP Mid-fine grain LTP 200 HTP 100 Open grain 0 LTP MTP HTP LTP HTP 3° Correlation between darkening of the wood and TP • • UNTOASTED STAVES after STEAM BENDING (4 min) Same origin, grain size and humidity level HTP TOASTING HTP LTP LTP +/3°C • The higher the TP, the darker the staves. • BUT the higher the toasting intensity (time x temp), the darker the staves. è Surface darkness is not a relevant indicator to control toasting: different technique can make similar looking barrels that have very different composition! 4° Sensorial impact of TP WL FURANIC ALDEHYDES 100 2500 80 2000 60 C WL 40 T WL 20 0 1500 Furfural 1000 5HMF 500 5MF 0 LTP LTP G150 HTP G150 HTP G190 BLANCHE LTP LTP G150 HTP G150 HTP G190 BLANCHE VANILLIN ELLAGITANNINS 50 10000 40 8000 30 6000 4000 20 EGT 2000 10 0 0 LTP BLANCHE LTP G150 HTP G150 HTP G190 LTP LTP G150 HTP G150 HTP G190 BLANCHE Content in μg/g LTP HTP 5° Correlation with geographic origin? Trial done in collaboration with the ONF and Château LATOUR • Wood origin: France, 4 forests (2) • • Wood seasoning: 30 months Wood toasting: gradual 170 (G170) Forest 1 • • • WINE: LATOUR BLEND 2013 (95% CS) BARRELING: January 2014, Barrels of 225, DUPLICATE AGING PERIOD: 15 months (analysis carried out at the end of aging) Forest 2 Forest 3 Forest 4 F1-LTPa F2-LTPa F3-LTPa F4-LTPa F1-LTPb F2-LTPb F3-LTPb F4-LTPa F1-HTPa F2-HTPa F3-HTPa F4-HTPa F1-HTPb F2-HTPb F3-HTPb F4-HTPb Trial VICARD / ONF / LATOUR FOREST / TP FURANIC ALDEHYDES / TOASTED NOTES 500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0 WHISKY LACTONES g/L g/L Levels of aromatic compounds in wines 500 400 300 200 100 F1 F2 F3 F4 VARIABLES LTP HTP 0 F1 F2 F3 F4 LTP HTP VARIABLES • Stronger impact of TP classification. • The higher the TP, the higher the levels in furanic aldehydes and conversely the lower the levels in WL. Impact on grape based tannins? ≈ 25 % Alamo-Sanza and Nevares, . J. Agric. Food Chem, 2014 ≈ 75% O2 EGT Dissolved / Consumed Condensed tannins Phloroglucinolysis Total tannins concentration Dpm Tannin origin Kennedy et al. 2001 Trial VICARD / ONF / LATOUR FOREST / TP mg/L Phenolic composition CONDENSED TANNINS (phloroglucinolysis) mDP 8 7.5 7 6.5 6 5.5 5 4.5 4 850 800 750 700 650 600 550 500 F1 F2 F3 F4 VARIABLES LTP HTP F1 F2 F3 F4 LTP HTP VARIABLES • The higher the TP, the higher the levels in condensed tannins and the higher the mDP: wine tannins in HTP barrel are slower oxidized • Stronger impact of TP classification Trial VICARD / ONF / LATOUR FOREST / TP Tannins reactivity (SPI: saliva protein index) SPI % 80 79 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 70 F1 F2 F3 F4 LTP HTP VARIABLES • The higher the TP, the higher the tannins reactivity. • Stronger impact of TP classification CONCLUSION • • • • • • The heterogeneity of oak wood composition, combined with irregular toasting protocols, can lead to substantial variation in wine perception after aging. Oak selection by forest should be used with caution as it doesn’t reflect the heterogeneity of oak wood chemical composition. Selection by grain allows some control of this heterogeneity but variability remains high. To achieve homogeneity, as well as take advantage of the high diversity in chemical composition, sorting by Tannin Potential at the stave level will yield better outcomes. Rationalization of cooperage oak wood selection by Tannin Potential, combined with precise toasting management, is evidenced both by sensory and chemical analysis. We expect this rationalization of wood sorting will play an increasingly important role as natural resources are more effectively utilized and the demand for a consistent product increases. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS • Wine Business Monthly • Hélène Genin from Château LATOUR • Aude Watrelot and James Kennedy • Jeffrey Stambor, Beaulieu Vineyards • Justin Seidenfeld, Rodney Strong • Jean-Charles Vicard, Christy Thomas and Georges Milcan Jeffrey Stambor Director of Winemaking – Beaulieu Vineyard Justin Seidenfeld Winemaker – Rodney Strong Vineyards
