buying guide - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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BUYING GUIDE
NOVEMBER 2011
The cellars of Penfold’s Magill Estate in South Australia hold an impressive library of back vintages.
© MICK ROCK
44 SPAIN
2 AUSTRALIA
49 CALIFORNIA
19 ARGENTINA
66 WASHINGTON
26 SOUTH AFRICA
76 SPIRITS
30 FRANCE
78 BEER
33 ITALY
FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND
REVIEWS, VISIT
BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM
35 PORTUGAL
AUSTRALIA
ICONS AND EMBLEMS, WITH PLENTY OF CHOICES IN BETWEEN
Penfolds’ Grange is arguably Australia’s most lauded wine. Yellow Tail is arguably its most successful. One often sells for $500 or more, the other often
sells for $10 or less. The 2006 Grange is reviewed this month, as is Yellow
Tail’s Bubbles Sparkling Wine. In many ways, neither is truly representative of their genre; they inhabit vastly different habitats along the spectrum
of Australian wines, deflecting attention from many of the deserving wines
that fall somewhere in the middle class.
Yet it is precisely those middle-class Australian wines that deserve the
most attention from buyers. Some are unique regional expressions of particular grape varieties, like Clare Valley Riesling or Hunter Valley Semillon. Others are classic regional blends, like Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc
from Margaret River or Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon from South Australia. Many offer outsanding quality for the price.
This issue of the Buying Guide includes numerous examples of exactly these sorts of wines, from Jim Barry’s 2010 The Lodge Hill Dry Riesling (Clare Valley; 90 points, $18) and Brokenwood’s 2007 Oakey Creek
Semillon (Hunter Valley; 92 points, $32) to Cape Mentelle’s 2010 Sauvi-
AUSTRALIAN WHITES
RIESLING
90
Jim Barry 2010 The Lodge Hill Dry Riesling (Clare Valley). Quintessential young
Clare Riesling, with lime sherbet aromas and flavors
and a delicate thread of talclike minerality running
through it. It’s light to medium in body, very clean, fresh
and zesty on the finish. Drink now, or hold 5-7 years to
allow a more evolved, toasty character to emerge. Negociants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
90
Pewsey Vale 2010 Individual Vineyard
Selection Dry Riesling (Eden Valley).
Hints at honey, apple and citrus on the nose, then delivers all of those notes minus the implied sweetness and
coupled with high acid levels. Although this is in a nice
place now as an apéritif or with oysters, it should hold
nicely for at least 5–7 years, adding richness and versatility as it ages. Negociants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice.
—J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
86
86
Frisk 2010 Prickly Riesling (Victoria). For
full review see page 13.
Wakefield Estate 2010 Riesling (Clare
Valley). Light and crisp, with a perfumed bouquet of baby powder and lime blossom. Simple green
apple and lime flavors carry a tart edge through the finish. American Wine Distributors. —J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
gnon Blanc-Semillon (Margaret River; 90 points, $18) and Penfolds’ 2008
Bin 389 Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz (South Australia; 91 points, $36).
These are not cheap-and-cheerful whites or palate-staining reds, just excellent wines at relatively affordable prices.
Similar values abound throughout this bountiful midsection of the
Australian wine scene, and you’ll find dozens more inside: top-scoring
Cabernets from Margaret River, Shiraz from Barossa and McLaren Vale,
even two very good sparkling wines from unexpected sources—Padthaway and Clare Valley.
Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, we take another look at the
unending flows of wine streaming north from Argentina and South
Africa, assorted wines from Bordeaux and Italy, fine table wines from
the Iberian Peninsula and the latest releases from California and Washington. And if you’re thirsty for still more reviews, you can find all of our
more than 105,000 wine ratings and reviews online and free of charge at
buyingguide.wine.com.
Cheers!
—Joe Czerwinski
SEMILLON
WHITE BLENDS
92
90
91
Brokenwood 2007 Oakey Creek Semillon
(Hunter Valley). For full review see page 5.
Brokenwood 2006 ILR Reserve Vineyard
Selection Semillon (Hunter Valley). For
89
Keith Tulloch 2007 Semillon (Hunter Valley). A typical expression of Hunter Valley
Semillon, with modest alcohol and crisp acids. Struck
flint and lime custard mark the nose, while the flavors
suggest the dust of crushed stones and citrus. Drink
now–2017. USA Wine Imports. —J.C.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
88
Margan 2009 Semillon (Hunter Valley).
With a flinty edge to its lemon-lime aromas
and an indescribable stone-dust component to its flavors, this is an intriguing medium-bodied Semillon that
finishes with laser-like precision. Drink now–2020, by
which time it will have developed honey and toast characters. Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
87
Brokenwood 2010 Semillon (Hunter Valley). Brokenwood’s entry-level Semillon is always a reliable introduction to the Hunter Valley style.
Crisp, zingy citrus fruit and light body make it a fine
accompaniment to raw oysters or other shellfish when
young. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
Cullen 2009 Ephraim Clarke Sauvignon
Blanc-Semillon (Margaret River). This
wine seems a bit sweaty at first, but with a little aeration
it becomes more toasty and citrusy. Hints of honey and
tangerine mark the palate, but with its modest alcohol
and crisp acidity, it never seems heavy at all. Try as an
apéritif or with seafood. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $35
90
Cape Mentelle 2010 Sauvignon BlancSemillon (Margaret River). Mouthfilling
and round, filled with ripe pineapple and passion fruit
flavors. There are some sweaty and mealy notes balanced by hints of stone fruit, which all act to build complexity and interest. Potent and long on the finish. Drink
now. Moët Hennessy USA. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
88
Hungerford Hill 2010 Fishcage SemillonSauvignon Blanc (Hunter Valley). Most
Hunter Valley Semillons are unblended, but this one
adds Sauvignon Blanc for increased aromatics. It’s lemony and fresh, with some leafy notes on the nose, then
crisp and citrusy without being severe on the palate.
The mouthwatering finish lingers nicely. Hunter Valley
Fine Wines, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
87
James Oatley 2009 Tic Tok Sauvignon
Blanc-Semillon (Western Australia). This
is a plump, slightly creamy-textured blend of approximately 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Semillon. Lime,
melon and white pepper notes mark the nose and pal-
Continued on Page 15
2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011
The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated
by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified
tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include
Senior Editor/Tasting Director Joe Czerwinski, Assistant
Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Tasting Coordinator
Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa,
Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Reviewer
Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in
Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California
Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul
Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Reviewer Virginie Boone
in Santa Rosa.
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s
initials appear following the note. When no initials appear
following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or
more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input
of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are
by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product,
its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by
the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed.
Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
100
95
97
95
Cayuse 2008 Bionic Frog Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Initially a rather subdued
Frog; as if it has been tamed down. Then, suddenly,
There’s a plush core of blackberry fruit, and the classic
Cayuse funkiness is there, drenched in liquid rocks and
cured meat and drying tannins. It’s all in proportion and
a fine reflection of the steely vintage. As it opens gracefully you discover that it is a stunningly refined Frog,
quite possibly the best ever; powerful and distinctive,
but also elegant, feminine. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $80
Merryvale 2008 Cabernet Franc (Napa
Valley). A rare Cabernet Franc from Merryvale, and a spectacular one. They’ve handled this finicky
variety just right, although surely the addition of some
Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec adds weight and tone.
The wine is dry, richly tannic and enormously flavorful,
offering waves of cherries, red currants, red licorice,
cola, sweet cedar wood and even savory hints of bacon.
A tremendous Cabernet Franc that will stand as a definitive version in California. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $90
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed
blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in
peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in
assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or
uncustomary are retasted.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:
Superb 94–97:
Excellent 90–93:
Very Good 87–89:
Good 83–86:
Acceptable 80–82:
The pinnacle of quality.
A great achievement.
Highly recommended.
Often good value; well recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances.
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
points) are not reviewed.
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent
quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any
price with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae
for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are
generally priced at $15 or less.
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing
location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.
com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting
& Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@
wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting
products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted
for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted
will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All
samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission
forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.
LABELS
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given
the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and
printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on
label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax
866.896.8786; or email [email protected].
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at
buyingguide.winemag.com
Merryvale 2008 Profile (Napa Valley). A
tremendous wine that shows how Merryvale is
absolutely at the top of its game. Impeccable in structure, with refined tannins that are soft and firm at the
same time, and a fine cut of acidity. Entirely dry, the
Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend is awesome in blackberry, cherry, cassis and oak flavors, with complexities of
anise, soy sauce, grilled meats and minerals. Beyond the
particulars, it just feels dramatic and rich in the mouth.
A great wine that should develop in the bottle over the
next decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $165
Moone-Tsai 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). One sip is all it takes to fall in
love with this Cabernet, which contains a little Merlot.
It’s rich and lush and authoritative on every level. The
texture is soft as velvet, but the tannins are firm, backing up blackberry, cherry, chocolate, cassis, mineral and
new oak flavors that are complex and linger long into
the spicy finish. Such are the tannins that the wine is
likely to age well through 2016, at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $75
96
Vineyard 7&8 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
(Spring Mountain). It’s hard to
exaggerate the purity of this wine,
which is 100% Cabernet. It startles
for the intensity of mountain blackberries and raspberries, and then a
firm minerality kicks in, along with
the tannins, providing grounding
structure. The finish lasts for a full
minute. Winemaker Luc Morlet has
really hit the jackpot with this dry,
spectacularly complex young wine,
which will develop for at least a decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $125
94
Aveleda 2004 Grande Follies Vinhas da
Quinta da Agueira (Beiras). A superb, concentrated wine, powered by ripe fruits that are now
reaching their peak. The wine has a dense texture, with
rich berry and sweet plum fruits, bitter chocolate and
solid, dark tannins. Age for 5–6 years. FJN Fine Wines
LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
WineMag.com | 3
94
D.R. Stephens 2008 Walther River Block
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The
estate vineyard is on the east side of Rutherford, on
Howell Mountain Road, up into the Vaca Mountains.
This is prime Cabernet territory, and the wine is 100%
varietal. It’s very rich and dry in blackberries, with a
firmly tannic astringency and a fine coating of oak.
Needs time to come around. Give it at least six years,
possibly far longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $105
94
De Bortoli 2007 Noble One Bortytis Semillon (New South Wales). De Bortoli’s Noble
One is as good as ever in 2007, offering intense botrytis,
dried apricots, honey and bergamot in a sweetly unctuous style. Think of a Sauternes, but with more sugar and
less alcohol. It should age well for 10 or more years. De
Bortoli Wines USA Inc. —J.C.
abv: 10%
Price: $32/375 ml
94
Jarvis 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The estate vineyard is
in the Vaca Mountains, east of the city of Napa. You can
taste the cool climate in the brisk acidity that frames
this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s very ripe in blackberries, with rich layers of toast from new French oak.
For all the sweet fruit, the finish is dry, even rasping.
Such are the tannins that the wine feels tough, even at
this age. Give it another five years, at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $195
94
L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Walla Walla Valley). Fragrant with smoky
red fruits, this tight, young, pure Cabernet Sauvignon
brings a generous mix of raspberry, pomegranate and
cherry fruit into play. The firm and supple tannins are
folded in seamlessly, with hints of iron, coffee and chocolate. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $37
93
Hestan 2007 Stephanie Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Smooth and rich, a
flashy Cabernet that impresses for sheer opulence.
Notable especially for the texture, with perfectly ripe,
rounded tannins, and the blackberry and cassis flavors
are very fine. Another success from the fabulous 2007
vintage in Napa Valley. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $50
93
Jarvis 2007 Lake William (Napa Valley).
Napa reds don’t get richer than this. Made from
roughly equal parts of Merlot and the two Cabernets,
Sauvignon and Franc, with a squirt of Petit Verdot, it’s
so sweet in blackberries and cherries and caramelized
new oak, it’s almost like a dessert wine. But it’s totally dry. Dazzling and showy, the flashiness is given real
substance by depth and finish. Drink now–2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $115
93
Merryvale 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Another great success from
Merryvale. Somehow they manage to make red wines
that are ripe, oaky and opulent, yet maintain balance
so that you can drink it over the course of a meal without the flavors palling. Dry and tannicly sophisticated,
it shows complex waves of blackberries, cassis, cherries
and sweet, smoky cedar. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
93
Merryvale 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (St.
Helena). This is a big, ageworthy Cabernet,
grown on the winery’s estate vineyard. It’s a real success,
a dry, tannic wine of considerable elegance and spicy
deliciousness. But it’s too young to drink anytime soon,
with a scoury, astringent mouthfeel. Made with a splash
of Petit Verdot and Malbec, its core of sour candy blackberries and black cherries needs at least five years to begin to emerge. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $95
93
Riglos 2008 Gran Corte (Mendoza). A
luxurious Malbec-and-Cab-led blend that spent
22 months in new French oak and hardly shows it. The
nose is sweet and deeply fruity, with floral violet notes
and chocolate. It’s seriously dense in the mouth, with
chewy tannins, roasted blackberry, exotic spice and tobacco flavors. Roasted and rich on the back end, with
broad swaths of berry fruit and texture. Drink now
through 2013. Paul Hobbs Wines. Editors’ Choice.
—M.S.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $40
93
Vineyard 7&8 2008 7
Cabernet
Sauvignon
(Spring Mountain). Another
wonderful Cabernet from this fine
winery, which manages to finesse
Spring Mountain’s notorious tannins. While it’s diamond hard and
dry, with a brittle minerality, it’s extravagantly lush in blackberry, cherry, cassis and licorice fruit, accented
with 95% new French oak. Lay it
down for a good 6–8 years. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $75
92
Quinta da Garrida 2007 Reserva (Dão).
Intensely concentrated wine, still young, showing powerful tannins and big black fruit. It has a solid
core, very structured, with the rich fruit acting as a balance and foil. Age for 3–4 years. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
92
Nickel & Nickel 2008 Martin Stelling
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville).
There’s a huge, molten core of blackberry and cherry
fruit in this wine, whose grapes source from the primary vineyard for Far Niente, which is Nickel & Nickel’s
parent company. It shows its west Oakville pedigree in
ripeness, dryness and finesse of tannins, but those tannins are very astringent, typifying the winery’s house
style. Give this 100% Cabernet a good six years in the
cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $140
92
93
Zaca Mesa 2007 Black Bear Block Syrah
(Santa Ynez Valley). Made from 100% Syrah,
this wine shows Zaca Mesa’s house style of exceptionally ripe, heady fruit flavors tucked into a balanced, dry
wine. It’s as lush as velvet in the mouth, with complex
flavors of blackberries, anise, cocoa and black pepper.
Feels soft and light and yet powerful and insistent at the
same time. Drink now–2013. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
92
Brokenwood 2007 Oakey Creek Semillon (Hunter Valley). Of Brokenwood’s three
current-release Semillons, this one gets the nod as the
most complete. It’s light to medium in weight, but oh so
long and precise on the finish, and intense yet seemingly
transparent, like spider’s silk, with fleeting glimpses of
wet stones and moss. Try between 2015 and 2025. Old
Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: 12.2%
Price: $32
Nickel & Nickel 2008 Branding Iron Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). This 100%
Cabernet is the ripest and sweetest of the winery’s 2008
offerings, but it still shows the tannins that are Nickel
& Nickel’s mark. The vineyard is in west Oakville, and
offers that region’s superbly lush, delicious blackberry,
blueberry and cherry flavors. Those tannins, while firm,
are sweetly ripe, giving the wine an oxymoronic soft
toughness. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $95
92
Nickel & Nickel 2008 Quarry Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Really
tannic now, with a mouth-numbing astringency that accentuates the dryness and makes the mouthfeel rather
rasping. However, There’s no question about the depth
of flavor. This 100% Cabernet is vast in sweet blackberries and cassis, with an earthy undertone of herbs and
minerality. Give it at least six years in the cellar. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $95
92
Nickel & Nickel 2008 C.C. Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Offers a blast
of sweet red cherry candy flavor, accented with new oak
notes of buttered toast and caramel. There’s no question
this 100% Cabernet is delicious, but it’s also fiercely tannic. Makes the gums quiver. Should develop in the bottle over the next seven years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $95
92
Nickel & Nickel 2008 Rock Cairn Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville).
Classic Nickel & Nickel Cabernet, bone dry and super
tannic. Hits the mouth hard with astringency that effectively masks the ripe blackberry fruit. Half new oak
adds a toasty richness, but also some hard wood tannins.
Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, it really needs
cellaring. Try after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $95
WineMag.com | 5
92
Nieto Senetiner 2009 Terroir Blend Malbec (Mendoza). An impressive Malbec
blended from three vineyards ranging from 3,120 to
3,780 feet in elevation. The aromas are inviting and
open, with wild berry, spice and toasty notes. Elegant
and well balanced in the mouth, with smoky, ripe flavors of berry, plum and earth. Toasty and coconutty on
the finish. Drink now through 2014. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $33
91
92
91
Riglos 2008 Gran Malbec (Mendoza).
Rich, pure and inviting as can be, with coconut, cola, licorice and a ton of black fruit making for
an excellent bouquet. The palate is rich and smooth in
texture, with blackberry, cassis and cola flavors. Layered and pure on the finish, with exemplary depth and
length. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $30
92
Stephen & Walker 2009 Late-Harvest
Chardonnay (Mendocino Ridge). Smelling like a deep-dish apple pie, this wonderfully smooth,
golden colored late-harvest Chardonnay is voluptuous
and sexy, rich yet not overwhelming, perfectly balanced
in sweetness and only 11% alcohol. It would be so good
with a dry cheese or tarte Tatin but can also stand with
aplomb on its own. —V.B.
abv: 11%
Price: $65
Calcareous 2009 Viognier-Marsanne
(Paso Robles). Calcareous’s regular Viognier and Chardonnay are very good wines, but somehow,
this blend of both of them is better. The Viognier is unoaked, while the Marsanne was fermented and aged in
half new French oak. The flavors are elaborate and exotic, of ripe tropical fruits and honey, yet the wine is crisp
and refreshingly dry. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $28
Finca El Origen 2009 Gran Reserva Malbec (Uco Valley). A little charred and hard
on the nose, with licorice, pepper, mint and coffee aromas. The palate is perfectly balanced and quite generous, with massive blackberry and chocolate flavors.
Spicy and long on the finish, with mocha notes. Definitely a ripe, big-boned wine. Carolina Wine Brands
USA. —M.S.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $20
91
Fuse 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). Another very good Cabernet from
Fuse, at a great price, following the 2007. Blended with
Syrah and Merlot, it’s rich and soft in blackberries and
cassis, with a peppered, smoked meat note that must
come from the Syrah. Best now. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
91
Gauchezco 2009 Plata Malbec (Mendoza). Spicy, concentrated aromas of leather, berry fruit and dried cheddar cheese lead to a lush, balanced palate with heft, acidity and tasty flavors of chocolate, coffee and spiced blackberry. Full, long and flavorful on the finish. A big Malbec but one that’s well
balanced. Mountain West Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
91
Lost Canyon 2009 Morelli Lane Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Deliciously dry and complex, offering waves of fruit and
spices. Raspberry, cherry, red currant, red licorice, cola,
cinnamon, clove and anise spice flavors are brightened
with brisk acids. May not be an ager, but terrific now
with ahi tuna, lamb chops, steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
91
Lost Canyon 2009 Saralee’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This isn’t a
big Pinot Noir. It’s not dark or heavy or soft. This cool
part of the Russian River doesn’t yield such wines. It’s
light in tannins and silky in the mouth, the essence of
Pinot Noir. Official alcohol is 14.4%, which seems about
right. For all that, it’s very rich in cherry pie filling,
cola, sweet tobacco, spice and sandalwood flavors, and
should develop over the next 3–5 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
91
Merryvale 2009 Chardonnay (Carneros).
A fancy Chardonnay, whose 50% new French
oak gives a delicious layer of buttered toast and vanilla, but is in keeping with the volume of the underlying
wine. Made from grapes grown in some of the best vineyards in eastern Carneros, it’s rich in pineapple, lemon,
lime and green apples, with a honeyed finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
91
Woodinville Wine Cellars 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). A delightful expression of the grape, cleverly mixing 80% stainless with 20% French oak fermentation, and bringing
out the best of both. Juicy and refreshing, with a tangy
fruit core of citrus, grapefruit and pineapple flavors. It’s
lively and acidic without being at all sour, and a pleasing, lightly toasty roundness fills out the finish. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $18
90
Brokenwood 2006 ILR Reserve Vineyard
Selection Semillon (Hunter Valley). Brokenwood’s flagship Semillon is light in body, with an
acid structure that’s notable for its intensity. Aromas of
struck flint and lime zest presage the crisp lime flavors
and fresh, zippy finish. Give this puppy another few
years in the cellar to gain honeyed nuance, then drink
it over the next decade. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: 11%
Price: $48
90
Chocolate Box 2008 Dark Chocolate Shiraz (Barossa Valley). Plummy, rich and ripe,
with a creamy mouthfeel and dense, chocolaty flavors,
this is a hefty mouthful of Barossa Shiraz at a great price.
At 14.5% abv, it’s nicely balanced, with a lingering finish. Drink now and over the next couple of years. Rocland Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
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Gundlach Bundschu 2010 Estate Vineyard Gewürztraminer (Sonoma Coast).
A very nice example of a dry Gewürz. Name an exotic
spice, and you’ll find it here, especially cinnamon. The
fruit is all about oranges, pears and lychee, while acidity
is brisk and fine. Will challenge home chef and sommelier pairing talent. Pork and stewed fruit come to mind.
Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $23
90
Hestan 2006 Meyer Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Very ripe in
blackberries, cherries, cassis, licorice and smoky oak,
with deep, long flavors that are sweet in fruity essence.
Already throwing some sediment, but still a very tannic
wine, brooding and astringent. Needs a good six years,
and could go the distance. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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J. Portugal Ramos 2009 Vila Santa Reserva (Alentejano). An intensely structured wine,
surrounded by a cushion of sweet, jammy fruits. The
wine is warm and rich, with a tarry smoky character as
well as acidity. It should be aged for another 2–3 years.
Winebow. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $20
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Joseph Jewell 2008 Elk Prairie Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Humboldt County). Though the
bottle is incredibly heavy—a bit much for Pinot—the
wine is surprisingly lithe and velvety, with inviting aromatics of cherry and spice. Layered and tamely voluptuous, this is a tremendous, tiny-production Pinot from
an unlikely place—Humboldt County—a place with
clear potential in this producer’s hands. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $39
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Merryvale 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros).
Polished and elegant, in the Merryvale style,
this is a fresh, young Pinot Noir to appreciate now for
its ripe fruitiness. Shows flavors of raspberry and cherry
pie filling with the spices, vanilla and smoky sweet sandalwood. So delicious and easy to drink. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $35
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Nickel & Nickel 2008 Kelham Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Drink this
with rich, fatty steaks and chops to cut through the tannins, which are considerable. Right out of the bottle,
the wine is drily astringent. But there’s a rich core of
blackberries, cherries and cherry liqueur that makes the
finish almost sweet. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $95
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Planeta 2009 Carricante (Sicilia). This is a
very exciting wine that represents Planeta’s first
winemaking efforts on the superhot (figuratively and literally) Mt. Etna volcano. Refined and pristine aromas of
pear, stone fruit and lemon zest are backed by a beautiful veil of drying mineral and brimstone. Congratulations to the Planeta family! Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $35
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Proemio 2006 Barrel Selection Red Wine
(Mendoza). Red berry aromas with spice and
licorice shadings make for a good opening. The wine
smacks down hard on the palate, creating a clacky feel
to go with plum, berry, herb and spice flavors. Serious
and full, with juiciness, grabby tannins and a toasty coffee-laden finish. Malbec, Syrah and Merlot. Atlanta Improvement Co. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $53
Sea Mist 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian
River Valley). A lovely Sauvignon Blanc that
shows how well the variety grows in the Russian River
Valley. It’s dry and crisp in acidity, with rich, honeyed
flavors of green apples, peaches, sweet lemons and vanilla. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $16
Vina Robles 2010 White4 (Paso Robles).
Quite an interesting wine. A blend of Viognier,
Verdelho, Sauvignon Blanc and Vermentino, it’s not just
a simple mix of leftover batches, but a true attempt at
constructing a complex interpretation of terroir. With
apricot, tangerine and white peach flavors, it’s a fascinating alternative to a dry, crisp white wine. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $16
90
Yangarra Estate Vineyard 2008 Shiraz
(McLaren Vale). This wine wobbles along the
line between superripe and overripe, at times seeming
a bit raisiny, at others seeming just right. It’s full-bodied,
soft and expansive, with a lush, long finish, but drink it
over the next few years. Jackson Family Wines. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
90
Zaca Mesa 2007 Z Three (Santa Ynez
Valley). A blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache, and a fancy wine to drink now for its wealth of
flavor. Dry, soft and velvety, it shows ripe berry and currant fruit, with earthy, meaty notes and loads of crushed
black pepper. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
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Zuccardi 2009 Emma Bonarda (Mendoza). Black cherry and wild berry aromas are
tight and don’t stray much from center stage. The palate is layered, fresh and spunky, with flavors that match
the bouquet in that cherry, wild berry and plum run the
show. Toasty and chocolaty on the finish, with a rocksolid feel and bright fruit flavors that don’t quit. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
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Château Haut Selve 2010 Graves. Herbaceous, crisp wine with green notes leading to
grapefruit and lemon zest flavors. The wine is clear as
a bell, with its fruit deliciously forward. Baron Francois
Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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Château Haut Selve 2008 Graves. Ripe
wine, full of rounded juicy black currant fruits,
this has a core of tannins, dry and laced with wood toast.
There is a black chocolate bitterness which goes with
the acidity on the finish. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
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Gauchezco 2009 Malbec (Mendoza).
Composed up front, with floral aromas matching wits with dry herb notes and solid berry fruit scents.
The palate is snappy and crisp, with focus and narrow,
tight flavors of raspberry and plum blended with vanilla.
Bright and juicy throughout, with vanilla and toast on
the finish. Mountain West Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Deusa Nai 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas).
Rioja-based Marqués de Cáceres’ first foray into
Albariño is a success. This wine is light, salinic and melony on the nose. The palate is complete and offers fine
acidity with brine, pineapple and green apple flavors.
Good and lightly pithy on the finish. Vineyard Brands.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Paul Dolan 2009 Made With Organically Grown Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendocino County). Paul Dolan uses fruit from his
Dark Horse Ranch as well as some from Parducci to
make this almost 100% Cab (there’s 2.5% Petit Verdot),
a fruit-forward wine with ripe, concentrated flavors and
awesome dollops of cinnamon and cola spice. Let the
wine air. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
Toad Hollow 2009 Goldie’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This bottling has been variable over the years. The ’09 is soft
and fruity, with pleasant raspberry, cherry, cola, brown
sugar and cinnamon spice flavors. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
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Ghost Pines 2009 Winemaker’s Blend
Merlot (Sonoma-Napa). A sweet, soft, luscious wine that flatters the mouth with flavors of cherries, raspberries, currants, milk chocolate and toast.
Easy to drink, with elegant tannins. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $23
J. Lohr 2007 Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (St. Helena). An elegant wine,
rich in blackberry, blueberry and cherry fruit, with plenty of sweet, smoky oak. There’s a cut of acidity, and the
tannins are firm. Your window for drinking this Cab is
2013. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $40
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Annika Vineyards 2009 Chardonnay
(Livermore Valley). Made by Karl Wente for
golfer Annika Sorenstam, this Chardonnay is luxuriously big, oaky and full of vanilla, caramel, ripe apple and
lime characters and very good for its style. Textured and
looking for buttery lobster rolls or similar such fare to
pair itself with. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $40
J. Lohr 2009 October Night Chardonnay
(Arroyo Seco). Oak stands out on this Chardonnay, offering buttered toast and vanilla flavors. The
wine underneath is a little thin in fruit, but it has nice
Monterey acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $25
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SPIRITS
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Voli Raspberry Cocoa Fusion (France;
Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY); 30% abv, $23. While it won’t cure your
craving for a chocolate fix, this vodka is smooth and
pleasant sipping, and surprisingly addictive. The aroma
translates more grape-like than berry. The clear spirit
is mildly flavored, with a pleasant, subtle cocoa finish.
Made in Cognac, France, this spirit is 80 calories compared to the 100 that most vodkas have.
BEST BUYS
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Condes de Albarei 2010 Albariño (Rías
Baixas). Apple and melon aromas are pure and
minerally. The palate is round and offers good density
and acidic balance along with tasty, better-than-normal
melon, papaya and apple flavors. Creamy but balanced
on the finish; meets or beats any reasonable expectation
for fine Alabariño. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Toad Hollow 2010 Eye of the Toad Dry
Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma County).
Acid fans will find plenty to celebrate with this 100% Pinot Noir. It rocks in tartness and is fully dry, with a delicate, silky mouthfeel. The flavors are subtle but satisfying, suggesting strawberries, rose petals and Provençal
herbs. Easily merits its high score for getting the rosé
job done right. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 11%
Price: $13
BEST BUYS
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Aveleda 2010 Alvarinho (Minho). A splendid Alvarinho, produced in the southern Vinho Verde region, with ripe creaminess as well as shafts
of lime juice and grapefruit. It’s ready to drink, while
it could age for another year. FJN Fine Wines LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
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Aveleda 2009 Follies Fonte Nossa Senhora da Vandoma Touriga NacionalCabernet Sauvignon (Beiras). Rich, rounded and
smooth, this is an exceptional value, with its black fruits,
firm tannins and dense texture coming from Touriga
Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon. It feels rich, ready to
drink now, likely to develop over the next several years.
FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
Martín Códax 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas). A little leesy on the nose, but mostly it’s
forward and lemony. The palate is citric and crisp as a
whistle, with lemon, green apple and a secondary sweetness akin to pineapple. Focused and clean on the finish;
chiseled and defined. Martín Códax USA. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Pacific Rim 2010 Riesling (Columbia Valley). Right on the borderline between dry and
sweet, this richly fruity Riesling is packed with flavors of
peach, apricot, pear, a hint of mint, and a streak of wet
stone. There is a lot going on for such an inexpensive
wine. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $10
Aveleda 2010 Quinta da Aveleda (Vinho
Verde). A delicious, dry Vinho Verde, its acidity tamed by the ripe fruit and soft creamed apple flavors. It has a steely edge, the acidity cutting through to
give a firm and refreshing aftertaste. FJN Fine Wines
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $9
Finca El Origen 2010 Reserva Malbec
(Uco Valley). Dense and solid from the start,
with deep plum, wild berry and earth aromas. Ripe,
whole and nice on the palate, with crusty blackberry,
chocolate and spice flavors. Finishes lightly toasted,
with comportment. Real good for everyday Malbec.
Carolina Wine Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
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Alamos 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Rubbery
at first, then it rounds out and settles down to
offer blackberry richness and jammy aromas. The palate is soft, lush and cushioned, while blackberry flavors
run sweet, toasty and chocolaty. Remains sweet on the
finish, with fig and minty spice flavors. E & J Gallo. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $13
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Bogatell 2010 Garnacha Blanca (Terra
Alta). Pure peach, pear and oceanic aromas
properly reflect the wine’s name, which stems from a
popular beach in nearby Barcelona. In the mouth, it’s
tangy and linear, with crisp, citrusy acids and corresponding flavors of lime and green apple. Finishes tight
and dry. Savorian Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
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Parducci 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendocino County). A terrific deal in Mendocino
Sauvignon Blanc, subdued in the nose at first, this wine
opens up into easy-drinking vanilla and lemon flavors,
its stainless-steel fermentation keeping it refreshing and
light and a go-to apéritif; its depth keeps it fresh and
bright over time. An ideal SB to go with a light dinner.
Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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Borsao 2010 Garnacha (Campo de Borja). Big, black and alive in the glass, with earth
and black fruit aromas. The mouth is lively and pure,
with blackberry and red plum flavors covering both the
dark and red fruit bases. Grabby and long on the finish;
very likable value-priced Grenache. Fine Estates From
Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $8
Concannon 2009 Selected Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Coast). For
a big-production, small-price Cabernet it would be hard
to find much better than this, a smooth, round and lush
Cab with some of Cab Franc’s herbaceousness (though
only Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot have been blended
in), cherry, plum and rhubarb. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
Kirkland Signature 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Meaty and dark right from the start, with
berry syrup, toast and peppery aromas. The palate is
ripe and good, with bulk and balance. Tastes toasty and
spicy, with licorice and black pepper supporting ripe
blackberry. Healthy, long and nice overall. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $8
Porcupine Ridge 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Western Cape). Green apple and white watermelon rind lead the way on this Sauv Blanc, as flavors of green fig and bright citrus liven up the mediumweight mouth. Balanced and very drinkable; enjoy now.
Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
Rocland Estate 2009 Ass Kisser Fine Red
Wine (South Australia). Lush and creamy in
texture and showing a bit of warmth, this is a mouthfilling, crowd-pleasing blend of Grenache, Shiraz and
Mataro (Mourvèdre). Ripe currant fruit is nicely framed
by hints of vanilla and cedar. Drink now–2015. Rocland
Wine Imports. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $10
Santa Julia 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Full and concentrated,
with aromas of roasted blackberry, cassis and plum. The
palate is solid and offers a pleasant and proper mouthfeel, while the flavors of cassis, raspberry and plum satisfy and come with only a touch of herbal essence. Dark
on the finish, with follow through. Winesellers Ltd.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
WineMag.com | 11
BEST BUYS
BEST BUYS
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Wakefield Estate 2008 Promised Land
Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon (South Australia). With its red-berry fruit tinged with tar and
black olive, this is a complex, savory red available for a
song. It’s medium in weight and creamy in texture, turning crisp and silky on the finish. Drink now. American
Wine Distributors. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
Borsao 2010 Monte Oton Garnacha
(Campo de Borja). This perennial Best Buy
is once again rock solid. Fresh berry fruit and compote
aromas make for a good bouquet. There’s no shortage
of acidity, so the palate is jumpy and lively, with crisp,
almost tart raspberry and plum flavors. Structured and
forward; hamburgers and pizza wine par excellence.
Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $7
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Borsao 2010 Viña Borgia Garnacha
(Campo de Borja). This Garnacha is another
from the Borsao operations, and it’s clean with plenty of
black fruit on the nose and palate. Juicy, tight, forward
stuff with a dark and peppery finish. A little raw and
pointy, so drink with salami, a burger or skirt steak. Fine
Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $6
José Maria da Fonseca 2008 Periquita (Setubal). The latest vintage of Periquita
maintains the high standards of this popular Portuguese
brand. With its juicy fruit, soft tannins and blackberry
flavors, it is a little more structured than some previous
vintages while still keeping its full fruity character. Palm
Bay International. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
Korbel NV Brut (California). Another fine
brut from Korbel, dry, yeasty and citrusy, just
like a good bubbly should be. It’s a little rough and
scoury in the bubbles, but at this price, a good deal.
Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
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Line 39 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (North
Coast). $10 for this very drinkable Cab? That’s
crazy. But Line 39 is exactly that, a concentrated, juicy
and fruity Cab with plenty of classic Cab tannins that’s
an incredibly good value and probably pretty easy to
find. Scoop it up where you find out though note that
two bottles were tasted here with some bottle variation.
Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
BEST BUYS
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Menduco 2010 Reserve Malbec (Uco
Valley). A touch rubbery and medicinal if you
get deep into the bouquet, with sizable berry aromas
to boot. The palate is comfortable and balanced, with
earthy black fruit flavors that suggest fig and blackberry. Toasty and chocolaty on the finish. Carolina Wine
Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
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Nieto Senetiner 2010 Reserva Bonarda
(Mendoza). Smoky and dark from the start,
with char and earth aromas to go with basic blackberry.
The palate delivers power and a good texture, with bold
blackberry and peppery flavors. Becomes more rubbery
as it opens but holds onto its plum and chocolaty virtues. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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Parducci 2009 Chardonnay (Mendocino
County). This inexpensive Chardonnay has a
fair amount of oaky depth to it, unexpectedly since only
5% of it was aged in American oak, the rest in stainless
steel. Nonetheless it has toasty vanilla flavors and aromas of lime, apple and cantaloupe and tastes refreshing
and clean. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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BEST BUYS
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Valentin Bianchi 2010 Elsa Bianchi Malbec (Mendoza). Spicy black cherry aromas
are lightly floral, lemony and suggestive of a woodsy
candle. The palate is balanced and bold, with ripe blackberry and spicy flavors. Rich, strong and a bit chocolaty
on the back end. A winning wine for the price. Quintessential Wines. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $9
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Bota Box 2009 Riesling (California). The
important thing to know about this Riesling is
that it’s frankly sweet, with sugary apricot, orange, green
apple and honeysuckle flavors. It’s also brilliantly clean
and vibrant in acidity. If you like this off-dry style, it’s
definitely for you. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $20/3 L
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Frisk 2010 Prickly Riesling (Victoria). This
is truly prickly, with a slight spritz of CO2 acting
to perk up the lime, green apple and pineapple aromas
and flavors. It’s at the same time plump and off dry, deftly balancing sweetness and zest. Drink now. Old Bridge
Cellars. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 9%
Price: $10
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Round Hill 2010 Oak Free Chardonnay
(California). So ripe and rich in fruit, you
won’t even notice the absence of oak. The grapes come
mostly from Lodi, with a touch of Monterey. Brightened with crisp acidity, the flavors are of spicy, zesty
tangerines and vanilla. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
Santa Julia 2010 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Dense, meaty and lightly herbal on the
nose, with minty berry notes. The palate is firm and issues tannic crack in front of plum, herbal flavors, brown
sugar and vanilla. Turns mildly hot and grating on the finish, with juicy length. Good for everyday Malbec. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
Symington Family Estates 2009 Altano
(Douro). A warm, ripe vintage of Altano, its
berry and red plum fruits rich and generous. It has attractive, well-balanced, soft tannins. A layer of acidity
and spice completes this harmonious wine. Vineyard
Brands. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Callia 2010 Alta Malbec (Tulum Valley).
Good berry and plum aromas send this out in
solid form. The palate is full and grabby, with jammy,
slightly herbal flavors of blackberry and plum. The finish is medium in length, with size and a spot of heat.
Ripe, good and fresh for an under-$10 Malbec. Palm
Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
Finca El Origen 2010 Malbec Rosé (Mendoza). Berry and rubber band are the lead aromas. The wine has texture and lasting freshness despite
being more than a year old already. It’s medium in size
and body, with red fruit and apple skin flavors. Solid,
fruity and just lively enough. Carolina Wine Brands
USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $9
La Purísima 2010 Capa Rota Macabeo
(Yecla). Light and basic Macabeo with melon
and other sweet, mellow aromas. The palate is a bit flat
in feel but otherwise there’s nothing wrong. Tastes of
light citrus, kiwi and white grapes. Chalky and slightly stony on the finish. Marquee Selections. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
WineMag.com | 13
BEST BUYS
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Barefoot NV Deliciously Sweet Moscato
(California). Rides the Moscato wave with a
sweet honeyed richness, carrying tangerine, apricot and
lemon fruit. Fine acidity gives it a brisk, clean finish.
Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 9%
Price: $7
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Concannon 2010 Selected Vineyards Pinot Grigio (Central Coast). Drink this dryish wine with almost anything that calls for a light-bodied, crisp white, and don’t worry about it. It has savory
citrus flavors, with a pleasant hint of vanilla honey. Best
Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
BEST BUYS
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Courtney Benham 2010 Gewürztraminer
(Santa Barbara County). Soft and a little
sweet in sugar and honey, yet shows Gewürz’s spices,
with abundantly ripe tropical fruit, citrus, vanilla and
honeysuckle flavors. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
un4seen 2009 Red Wine (California).
Dark like a cave in color, this big red blend consists of Zinfandel, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Merlot, all
sourced from vineyards in Lodi and Clarksburg. Oaky
and tannic, not overdone alcohol-wise, the cherry flavors are just right for the backyard barbecue or other
casual meat-eating gathering. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $10
Glen Ellen 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Pinot Grigio (California). A sound, everyday
Pinot Grigio, with good citrus and spice flavors, brightened with crisp acidity. Gets the nod for simple richness. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $10/1.5 L
Glen Ellen 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve
Chardonnay (California). Sugary sweet in
honeysuckle, pineapple and vanilla flavors, this Chard
has the benefit of crisp acidity. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $10/1.5 L
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Sauvignon Blanc (Central Coast). A fine
wine, brisk in acidity and clean in the finish, with slightly sweet flavors of oranges, pears, peaches and honey.
A nice cocktail sipper, or with Asian fare. Best Buy.
—S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
BEST BUYS
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Bota Box 2010 Pinot Grigio (California).
A nice wine in a box, and at the equivalent of
about five bucks a bottle, a value. Crisp in acidity and
clean, it has flavors of oranges, limes and apricots. A
little too sweet, but at this price, who’s counting? Best
Buy. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20/3 L
Glen Ellen 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Old
Vine Zinfandel (California). Pretty good for
the price, with jammy cherry, berry, cocoa and spice flavors. An easy Zin to drink with BBQ or pasta with tomato sauce. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $10/1.5 L
BEST BUYS
er, Viognier and Trebbiano that manages to be largely neutral on the palate at the same time it’s perfumed
on the nose. Frothy and off dry. W.J. Deutsch & Sons.
—J.C.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $10
DESSERT WINES
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Glen Ellen 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Pinot Noir (California). Thin, with acidic cherry
flavors and a touch of oak. Saved by dryness and a nice
Pinot silkiness. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10/1.5 L
Continued from Page 2
ate, while the finish is crisp. Drink it over the next six
months or so. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
SPARKLING WINE
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Henry’s Drive Vignerons 2010 The Postmistress Blanc de Blanc (Padthaway). A
fine repository for excess Chardonnay fruit, The Postmistress offers only slight yeastiness, but ample citrus
fruit and a soft, elegant mousse. Gingery and toasty on
the finish. Drink now. Quintessential Wines. —J.C.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
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Pauletts 2008 Polish Hill River Trillians
Sparkling Brut (Clare Valley). Better known
for its dry Rieslings that benefit from aging, this Clare
Valley producer has turned out a very respectable bubbly that’s ready to drink. It’s round—almost lush—on
the palate, boasting hints of citrus, cream and toast. International Spirits & Wines, LLC. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Westend NV Eternity Sparkling Cuvée
(South Eastern Australia). Ready to drink,
this is a soft, rounded sparkler that offers plenty of
toasted brioche flavor, with pineapple and honey coming through on the finish. A.W. Direct. —J.C.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $13
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Jip Jip Rocks NV Sparkling Cuvée
(Padthaway). A fruit-driven style of sparkling
wine, with apple and citrus notes only slightly touched
by yeastiness. It’s a bit coarse in texture, but soft and
cuddly on the finish, making it easy to back for another
sip. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
83
Yellow Tail NV Bubbles Sparkling White
Wine (South Eastern Australia). Yellow
Tail’s sparkler is an aromatic blend of Semillon, Tramin-
De Bortoli 2007 Noble One Bortytis
Semillon (New South Wales). For full review see page 4.
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Penfolds 2008 Bin 389 Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz (South Australia). Penfolds
Chief Winemaker Peter Gago is enthusiastic about his
2008 Shirazes, including this blend of 52% Cabernet
and 48% Shiraz. Bin 389 continues to represent excellent value in a cellar-worthy red; it’s richly fruited, with
oak in matching intensity yet not jammy or oaky, and the
velvety finish lasts a good long time. Drink now–2025,
and probably beyond. Treasury Wine Estates. Cellar
Selection. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
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Peter Lehmann NV Classic Muscat
(Barossa). Fortified Muscats from the Barossa are rare these days, but this is a delicious stickie well
worth trying. It delivers cherry-scented toffee and toasted walnuts on the nose, then adds caramel to the mix.
It’s nicely balanced between fruit and nutty complexity.
Hess Collection. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 17.5%
Price: $25/500 ml
Peter Lehmann 2009 Botrytis Semillon
(Barossa Valley). A nicely balanced sweet
wine, with moderate alcohol levels that would make it
attractive as a pairing with foie gras or as a dessert-style
sipper. Dried apricots, honey and melon notes end on a
citrusy note, including a bit of orange pith. Drink now.
Hess Collection. —J.C.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $17/375 ml
AUSTRALIAN REDS
CABERNETS & BLENDS
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Moss Wood 2006 Moss Wood Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River).
This is Margaret River Cab at its best: silky and Claret-like but with the extra flesh of the New World. Pipe
tobacco and cedar flow together seamlessly into a long,
cool finish. Delicious now, and should age gracefully
through 2020. Epicurean Wines. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $95
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Penfolds 2008 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon (South Australia). Bin 707 always
stands out for its massive initial hit of American oak, but
this wine has the fruit-driven power to stand up to its
barrel regime. Perhaps because of the warm vintage,
the wine is full-bodied but rather open-knit on the palate, marrying cedar and vanilla with cassis. Anticipated
maturity: 2015–2025. Treasury Wine Estates. Cellar
Selection. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $150
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Langmeil 2008 Jackaman’s Cabernet
Sauvignon (Barossa). Can a Barossa Cabernet be said to be understated? Especially considering
the warm vintage, this wine is wonderfully elegant and
restrained, revealing hints of mint, cassis and oak. It’s
full bodied and dense, yet remains fresh, with a long
finish that artfully balances firmness and softness, crispness and weight. Drink now–2020. Negociants USA,
Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
Tahbilk 2005 Eric Stevens Purbrick Cabernet Sauvignon (Nagambie Lakes). Not
a fruit bomb at all, this is a harmonious Cabernet, one
that gracefully combines cedar and vanilla from oak aging with richly textured cassis fruit. It’s full bodied and
firmly structured, with a long, elegant finish. Drink
2014–2020. Epic Wines. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $51
Yalumba 2008 FDR1A Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz (Barossa). A lush blend of 62%
Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Shiraz, this is full bodied and a bit jammy at this stage, full of primary blueberry and blackberry fruit framed with cedary oak. The
potent finish lingers, suggesting the potential to cellar
through 2020 if you have the patience to wait for a more
complex, integrated wine. If not, just pop and pour for
the upfront fruit. Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
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Chapel Hill 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(McLaren Vale). Full-bodied and intense, this
is a rich, ripe Cabernet for drinking now–2018. Cassis
fruit is tinged with hints of mint, chocolate and vanilla,
and while the tannins are velvety soft, the finish remains
fresh. Baum Wine Imports Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
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Château Tanunda 2008 Noble Baron
Cabernet Sauvignon (Barossa). Perfectly
fits the prototypical Barossa style of Cabernet, displaying ripe cassis and chocolate notes framed by ample
oak. It’s mouthfilling and round, with no hard edges and
a long, mint-tinged finish. Banfi Vintners. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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Kilikanoon 2009 Killerman’s Run ShirazGrenache (South Australia). This is a hugely fruity, lush wine destined for early consumption. The
blend of 65% Shiraz and 35% Grenache displays almost
grapey aromas and flavors, a bit of cassis and plushly
textured tannins. Drink now as a cocktail red or with casual fare. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Pauletts 2006 Polish Hill River Cabernet Merlot (Clare Valley). The blend of 70%
Cabernet and 30% Merlot spent 15 months in French
oak, yielding a medium-bodied wine that shows classically restrained Cabernet character on the midpalate.
Cedar, tobacco and cassis mingle easily, shading into
chocolate on the slightly warm finish. Drink now–2016.
International Spirits & Wines, LLC. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
WineMag.com | 15
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Shingleback 2006 D Block Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (McLaren Vale). Full bodied, chunky and grapey, this is a young, still somewhat
rambunctious teenager of a wine. Cassis and vanilla play
leading roles, as yet lacking much complexity, but finishing long and mouthwatering. Give it a couple of years in
the cellar. Precept Wines. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
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Shirvington 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(McLaren Vale). This well-endowed Cabernet
is full bodied and supple, with soft curves suggesting
immediate drinkability. It starts off with mint and cassis
on the nose, but quickly develops some dried-fruit, almost molasses-like characters on the palate along with a
touch of alcoholic warmth. Quintessential Wines. —J.C.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $60
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Penfolds 2007 Koonunga Hill Cabernet Sauvignon (South Australia). This
wine’s tobacco and cassis notes are textbook Cabernet, although it stands out for its velvety tannins and
rich mouthfeel. The fruit is dark, verging on date-like
or chocolaty, yet the wine retains a sense of structure
throughout the long, textured finish. Fine to drink now,
but it should last a few years if you decide to wait. Treasury Wine Estates. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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St. Hallett 2008 Gamekeeper’s ShirazCabernet Sauvignon (Barossa). This entry-level red from St. Hallett displays ample cedar and
cinnamon spice, cassis and plum fruit and judicious
touches of mocha and vanilla, all framed by soft tannins
and crisp, tangy acids. Drink now. Lion Nathan USA,
Inc. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
88
Wakefield Estate 2008 Promised Land
Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon (South Australia). For full review see page 12.
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Leeuwin Estate 2006 Art Series Cabernet
Sauvignon (Margaret River). This wine is
definitely on the herbal side, but it’s also suave and silky,
with refined notes of tobacco, cedar and cassis. Medium bodied and elegant, even if the flavors are a touch
green. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
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Peter Lehmann 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Barossa). This is a Barossa wine, so
there’s a sense of warmth and sweetly ripe fruit, yet it’s
also Cabernet, so that’s coupled with a sense of restraint
and traditional cassis and cigar box notes. The tannins
are soft, yet the wine finishes on a tart note. Drink now.
Hess Collection. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
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Rosemount 2009 Diamond Label Cabernet Sauvignon (South Eastern Australia). Gen Yers and Baby Boomers will remember when
Rosemount’s ubiquitous Diamond Label wines represented great value. This Cab offers slightly confected
cherry fruit, a whisper of mint and hints of vanilla. It’s
round in the mouth without being heavy, a fresh fruity
wine for immediate gratification. Treasury Wine Estates. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
85
Angove’s 2007 Vineyard Select Cabernet
Sauvignon (Coonawarra). Spicy and herbal
upfront, with cassis fruit that seems just a little dried
out, giving way to molasses and brown sugar. It’s a medium-bodied Cabernet with slightly drying tannins and a
coarse-textured finish. Trinchero Family Estates. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
85
Jacob’s Creek 2009 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Coonawarra). More austere
and lighter in weight than other Australian Cabernets
in this price range, perhaps reflecting its coolish Coonawarra origins. Herb and cherry notes finish dusty and
crisp. Might surprise in a year or two. Pernod Ricard.
—J.C.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $13
85
Tahbilk 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Nagambie Lakes). This wine is a bit austere and tough to warm up to, with dry, leafy overtones
encircling tangy cassis fruit like a cigar wrapper. Firm
and crisp on the finish; try it in another year or two—it
might improve with short-term cellaring. Epic Wines.
—J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
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Yellow Tail 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (South Eastern Australia). A sweetly
ripe amalgam of cassis, vanilla and cedar, this mediumbodied Cabernet is pleasant enough, if a little lacking in
distinctiveness. It turns faintly dusty on the finish, making it suited to pair with burgers or steak. W.J. Deutsch
& Sons. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Paringa 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(South Australia). Marked by bouncy, confected fruit and very soft and sweet-tasting flavors, this
is a disappointing effort. Quintessential Wines. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
OTHER RED BLENDS
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Heartland 2008 Stickleback (South Australia). This inexpensive blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Dolcetto and Lagrein represents a
tremendous value. The intensity of flavor—mint, cedar
and cassis—is remarkable for under $15, while the texture is cofee-tinged and velvety. Epicurean Wines. Best
Buy. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
89
Peter Lehmann 2009 Layers Red Wine
(Barossa). A gulpable blend of five varieties
(Shiraz, Mourvèdre, Tempranillo, Grenache and Carignan), this is a medium-bodied wine reminiscent of
cherries and cedar. A bit of crispness on the finish accents the otherwise lush feel. Drink now. Hess Collection. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
88
Langmeil 2009 Three Gardens SMG
(Barossa). Aside from some tarry, rubbery notes immediately upon opening, this is a pretty
straightforward, medium- to full-bodied blend of 40%
Shiraz, 32% Mourvèdre and 28% Grenache. Sweet vanilla accents lush blackberry fruit, while spice notes
mark the supple finish. Decant or otherwise aerate it,
and drink it over the next few years. Negociants USA,
Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
88
Rocland Estate 2009 Ass Kisser Fine
Red Wine (South Australia). For full review
see page 11.
85
Andrew Peace 2009 Masterpeace Red
Blend (South Eastern Australia). This medium-bodied blend of four varieties (Shiraz, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Grenache and Mataro) features supremely
soft tannins, balanced by crisp acids, while the flavors
are a slightly resiny or medicinal—but not unpleasant—
blend of mint, cedar, smoke and cherry. Drink now.
T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
PINOT NOIR
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Nugan Family Estates 2009 Vision Pinot
Noir (King Valley). King Valley Pinot Noir?
Why not, if it can be this good at this price. Gentle
smoke and oak spice notes accent dark cherry and plum
fruit, ending with hints of mocha. Tannins are a bit firm,
so this should drink well through 2015 or so. Southern
Starz, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
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Josef Chromy 2009 Pinot Noir (Tasmania). Light and fresh in style, with pleasant
cherry fruit accented by delicate notes of green herbs
and sous bois. It’s a pretty wine, quaffable even, with
hints of charred oak and coffee showing up on the finish. Drink now. Bob Bofman Selections. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
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Jacob’s Creek 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir
(Adelaide Hills). Slightly confectionary, with
cinnamon and vanilla notes alongside cherries and caramel. Finishes with a touch of warmth. Pernod Ricard.
—J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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De Bortoli 2009 Deen De Bortoli Vat 10
Pinot Noir (South Eastern Australia).
Earthy and tealike, with those attributes framed by
charred, nutty oak. It’s supple enough to be balanced
for immediate consumption. De Bortoli Wines USA
Inc. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
SHIRAZ
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Penfolds 2004 Grange Shiraz (South
Australia). A throwback to the monster Shiraz
style of old, with loads of toasty, vanilla-laden oak, meaty
nuances and driving, intense boysenberry fruit, the
2004 Grange should prove tremendously long-lived. Its
massive concentration and firm tannins suggest cellaring through 2020, after which it should drink well for
at least another decade or two. Foster’s Wine Estates
Americas. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $500
94
Penfolds 2006 Grange Shiraz (South
Australia). Not quite the massive monster that
is the 2004 Grange, the 2006 is still no shrinking violet.
It’s full bodied, muscular and extracted, and while the
flavors veer toward espresso and dark chocolate, there’s
also a ribbon of raspberry fruit running through the
wine from start to long, dusty finish. Drink 2015–2025,
and probably beyond. Treasury Wine Estates. Cellar
Selection. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $500
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Andrew Hardy 2004 The Ox Shiraz
(McLaren Vale). The Hardy family history of
grape growing goes back several generations in McLaren Vale, and this wine is sourced from vines said to be
planted in 1891. It’s full bodied and lush in texture, with
aromas and flavors that suggest chocolate, mint, marinated beef and brandied fruit. It shows a bit of alcohol, so drink it over the near term. Southern Starz, Inc.
—J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $100
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Kilikanoon 2007 Attunga 1865 Shiraz
(Clare Valley). Named in part for the year the
vineyard was planted, this is a hugely ripe expression
of Shiraz, a thick, chocolate fudge-like wine that nevertheless retains some freshness along with hints of black
pepper. The texture is creamy and rich, while the finish
is weighty and long. Drink now–2017. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $235
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Wirra Wirra 2007 RSW Shiraz (McLaren
Vale). Masterfully combines savory and sweet
elements, seamlessly blending cedar, meat and black olive notes with dark chocolate and plum. This is a full-on,
lush and creamy Shiraz, with a long, powerful finish that
inspires sip after sip. Drink now–2020. International
Vines, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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Greg Norman Estates 2006 Reserve Shiraz (Limestone Coast). A hugely oaky wine,
but one that manages to taste awfully good nonetheless,
with layers of vanilla and toast leading into a full-bodied, supple wine loaded with notes of maple syrup and
brown sugar. Drink now. Treasury Wine Estates. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
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Kilikanoon 2007 Parable Shiraz (McLaren Vale). For a wine with all of this ripeness
and concentration, this is remarkably light on its feet.
It’s a medium-bodied Shiraz with a creamy texture and
plenty of mocha, leather and berries, with a long, silky,
coffee-tinged finish. Drink now–2015. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Kilikanoon 2007 Testament Shiraz
(Barossa Valley). Despite some slightly
raisiny notes, this wine also displays some exotic floral aromas, then bold flavors of stone fruit and chocolate. It’s full bodied without seeming heavy at all, ending long, with savory plum and mocha shadings. Drink
now–2016. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
Price: $40
abv: 15%
92
Peter Lehmann 2005 Eight Songs Shiraz
(Barossa). This full-bodied, richly textured
Shiraz is ready to drink, with slightly lifted aromas of
plums and baking spices and a velvety mouthfeel. Long
and supple on the finish, it should continue to drink well
through at least 2018. Hess Collection. —J.C.
Price: $38
abv: 14.5%
92
Shingleback 2006 D Block Reserve Shiraz (McLaren Vale). For the price, this fullbodied, richly textured Shiraz "overdelivers," as Australians like to say. Scents of raspberries, chocolate and
cedar give way to a harmonious mélange of berries
and chocolate in the mouth, balanced by savory notes
of black olive and coffee. Drink now–2018. Precept
Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
Price: $35
abv: 14.5%
92
Torbreck 2006 RunRig Shiraz-Viognier (Barossa Valley). For all of this wine’s
warmth, it’s not overly weighty, instead delivering
raspberry jam flavors tinged with cracked pepper and
slightly herbal or floral notes. No sharp edges, no drying tannnins, just a mouthful of pleasure, ending with
hints of espresso and dark chocolate. Drink now–2016.
Torbreck. —J.C.
Price: $220
abv: 15.5%
91
Mount Langi Ghiran 2006 Cliff Edge Shiraz (Victoria). Not only is this a great value,
but it exhibits completely different character from many
of its competitors. It starts off smoky, then adds raspberry fruit and builds layers of savory complexity on top,
culminating in a finish that features crisp berry flavors
and tapenade. Full bodied and intense, with moderate
tannins; drink now–2008. Rathbone Wine Group. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Shirvington 2008 Shiraz (McLaren Vale).
Full-bodied and creamy-textured, this is a big
(16% abv) yet beautiful example of McLaren Vale Shiraz, with ample toast and vanilla from oak maturation
balanced by bold raspberry fruit and plenty of meaty,
savory complexity. The long, supple finish suggests a
drinking window from now through 2016. Quintessential Wines. —J.C.
abv: 16%
Price: $67
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Tahbilk 2005 Eric Stevens Purbrick Shiraz (Nagambie Lakes). At six years of age,
this wine shows finely integrated fruit and oak, with the
two merging seamlessly into shadings of cedar, meat,
spice cake and leather. It’s full bodied and intense, solidly built; firm without being tough and crisp without being hard-edged. Drink now–2020. Epic Wines. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $51
91
Wirra Wirra 2007 Woodhenge Shiraz
(McLaren Vale). Full bodied, rich and creamy
on the palate, this is a lush Shiraz ready for immediate
consumption. It delivers intense dark fruit flavors with
the merest hint of raisining, ending on a chocolaty note.
International Vines, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Yalumba 2006 The Octavius Shiraz
(Barossa). As usual when young, the oak is
obvious in the 2006 Octavius, reeking of smoke and
cured meats. But there’s also balancing raspberry fruit
and hints of green peppercorn. This is full bodied and
a bit tough and chewy on the finish; give it a few years
to soften and integrate. Drink 2014–2020. Negociants
USA, Inc. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
Price: $110
abv: 13.5%
Charles Cimicky 2006 The Autograph
Shiraz (Barossa Valley). Full bodied and
impressively extracted, this is a big, meaty Shiraz, hinting at bacon and earth alongside dark chocolate, cola
and plummy fruit. Finishes long, with dusty tannins
framing espresso and black olive flavors. Drink now–
2020. Epicurean Wines. —J.C.
Price: $46
abv: 14.5%
91
Cluster M45 2007 Shiraz (Heathcote).
This luxury release from Heathcote has been a
steady performer over the years, and the 2007 boasts
the same plush, velvety texture that prior vintages have
shown. Prune plum and cracked pepper mark the nose,
followed by rich, ripe, chocolaty flavors. The only question will be, is it too fudge-like? Drink over the near
term. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
Price: $70
abv: 15%
Brokenwood 2008 Shiraz (McLaren ValeBeechworth). An interesting blend of McLaren Vale and Beechworth fruit, this wine likewise blends
bright berry fruit with subtly savory elements like
smoke and leather. Tannins are soft and silky, showing
a bit of creaminess on the midpalate. Drink now–2015.
Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $27
Chocolate Box 2008 Dark Chocolate Shiraz (Barossa Valley). For full review see
page 7.
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Henry’s Drive Vignerons 2008 Shiraz
(Padthaway). A solid, potent example of Shiraz, this 2008 doesn’t show any ill effects of the vintagetime heatwave, offering fresh, clean flavors of blueberries, vanilla and tobacco. Tannins are firm and slightly
dusty in style, making this a solid choice with steak or
roasts. Drink now–2015, and possibly a few years after
that. Quintessential Wines. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
90
Leeuwin Estate 2007 Art Series Shiraz
(Margaret River). In keeping with its Western
Australian origins, this is a medium-bodied Shiraz, without the overbearing ripeness found from some other regions. Black cherry fruit is accented by hints of mint or
WineMag.com | 17
eucalyptus, while the tannins are silky and fine. Drink
it now and over the next several years. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
90
Penley Estate 2008 Hyland Shiraz (Coonawarra). This is a full-bodied, reasonably lush
example of Coonawarra Shiraz, with hints of mint and
pepper accenting bright berry fruit. Despite the 15%
abv, there’s no apparent heat, just increased volume.
Drink now–2020. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice.
—J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $20
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Yangarra Estate Vineyard 2008 Shiraz
(McLaren Vale). For full review see page 8.
De Bortoli 2008 Reserve Release Syrah
(Yarra Valley). Distinctive for its potent herb,
olive and pepper shadings, this firm, tannic Syrah (note
the spelling) stands well apart from the vast majority of
Australian offerings made from this grape. It’s a bit austere but concentrated enough to suggesting cellaring.
Try after 2016. De Bortoli Wines USA Inc. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $55
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Ozzie-Ba-Ru 2006 Shiraz (Hunter Valley).
Despite the sub-$20 price, don’t expect an easy,
fruit-driven style. This is more smoky and meaty, with
hints of vanilla, cedar and mint making for a complex,
medium-bodied Shiraz. The long finish is framed gently
by supple tannins, making it ready to drink now–2014.
Ozzie-Ba-Ru International Wines Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $17
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9 Mile Road 2008 Shiraz (South Australia). Full, thick and viscous, this is a reasonably
dense Shiraz at a realistic price. Black cherry notes carry
a hint of raisining, but also rich chocolaty goodness and
lingering mocha on the finish. Drink now. American Estates Wines, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
88
Groom 2008 Shiraz (Barossa). Dark-chocolaty in style, with intriguing notes of mint, baskets of ripe blackberries and some annoying hints of
hay or alfalfa. It’s medium-full in body and extremely
supple, making it a very drink-me-now sort of pleasure.
LisaLisa Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $38
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Nugan Family Estates 2009 Vision Shiraz
(Riverina). This medium-bodied Shiraz comes
swathed in a big overcoat of toasty oak, but avoids any
harsh tannins, instead balancing tart red-berry fruit with
oak spice while remaining silky-textured from start to
finish. Drink up over the next few years. Southern Starz,
abv: 14%
Price: $12
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Plantagenet 2007 Omrah Shiraz (Western Australia). If not for some distractingly
garlicky notes, this wine would have scored higher, as
it displays bright, crisply defined cherry fruit, complex
mocha and fudge shadings and a food-friendly, medi-
um-bodied nature. Chunky tannins suggest beef or
lamb as pairings. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Taltarni 2007 Shiraz (Pyrenees). A decent
value in Aussie Shiraz, this is a medium-bodied,
rather restrained rendering of the grape, with dark fruit
flavors and hints of coffee, smoke, molasses and cracked
pepper. Tannins are firm, so give it another couple of
years and drink 2013–2018. Clos Du Val Wine/Goelet
Wine Estates. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
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Taltarni 2006 Single Vineyard Shiraz
(Heathcote). Strongly marked by its 16-month
stay in American oak, this is a creamy-textured, lush
Shiraz that displays vanilla, cedar and cured-meat aromas, while the flavors are dark and earthy. Savory, meaty
notes emerge on the supple, vanilla-laden finish. Drink
now–2016. Clos Du Val Wine/Goelet Wine Estates.
—J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
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Water Wheel 2008 Shiraz (Bendigo). A
drink-now style of Shiraz, with elevated alcohol
to provide volume and texture alongside bold mint, cassis and vanilla flavors and plush tannins. Southern Starz,
Inc. —J.C.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $18
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Beelgara 2008 Springview Shiraz (Clare
Valley). This upmarket offering from Beelgara displays lashings of toasty oak layered over briary,
brambly fruit. It’s medium-full in weight and features
a creamy texture on the midpalate, then a slightly tart
finish that accentuates the wood tannins. The Yancey
Marketing Group. —J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $39
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Kilikanoon 2008 The Lackey Shiraz
(South Australia). The 2008 vintage was a
tough one at Kilikanoon according to winemaker Kevin Mitchell, but this second label has turned out well.
It’s full-bodied and richly textured, with notes of tar and
black olive up front, turning warm and slightly raisiny
on the finish and marked with a touch of bitter coffee.
Drink now. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
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Madison Ridge 2009 Lot 466 Shiraz (New
South Wales). In the context of Australian
Shiraz, this is on the lighter end of the spectrum at under 14% abv. The tannins are supple and the fruit plummy, savory and spicy, making it a good buy for current
consumption. A.W. Direct. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $10
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Morambro Creek 2008 Shiraz (Padthaway). Solid, workmanlike Shiraz, offering a
mélange of caramelized berries, tobacco and cassis.
Seems warm but at the same time slightly austere, making it a good candidate to partner grilled steak. Drink
now. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Tahbilk 2006 Shiraz (Nagambie Lakes).
Fresh and lively, with bright berry fruit accented by hints of chocolate and cedar. This is a mediumbodied, elegantly proportioned Shiraz, with a smooth
mouthfeel and a crisp, tart-berry finish. Drink now–
2015. Epic Wines. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
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Wakefield Estate 2008 Shiraz (Clare Valley). Supple at first, with brown sugar and
prune flavors that seem sweetly ripe, but this full-bodied wine firms up substantially on the finish, where it
turns a bit leathery in flavor and coffee-astringent.
Drink now, before the fruit fades. American Wine Distributors. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
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Bulletin Place 2009 Shiraz (South Eastern Australia). This value-priced label has
turned out a notably successful 2009 Shiraz, combining red currants with enough meaty, savory elements to
possess real interest. It’s medium in body and fleshy yet
crisp, making it very drinkable over the near term. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
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Xavier Flouret 2009 Waroo Shiraz (Pemberton). Really appealing on the nose, with
smoky, meaty scents that give the impression of a Shiraz that’s savory, yet packed with fruit. But the wine is
less impressive in the mouth; it’s soft and cuddley—deliciously ready to drink—without anything apparent in
reserve. Drink now. Cognac One, LLC. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
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Yalumba 2008 Shiraz-Viognier (Eden Valley). This is the midlevel entry in Yalumba’s
Shiraz-Viognier range, slotting in above the Y Series but
below the Hand Picked. It’s a medium-bodied, slightly
creamy-textured wine, with prominent green olive and
peppercorn nuances to its plummy flavors. It fades a little on the finish, so drink now–2013. Negociants USA,
Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
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Yellow Tail 2009 Reserve Shiraz (South
Eastern Australia). Bold and jammy in style,
with intense dark berry fruit and some peppery, leafy
notes. Tannins are supple, while crisp acids mark the
finish. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Gosford 2009 Reserve Shiraz (South
Eastern Australia). A medium-bodied Shiraz
suited to everyday drinking, with cherry-berry fruit accented by hints of leather and smoke. It’s a fresh, easy
quaff to match with burgers or pizza. A.W. Direct. Best
Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $8
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Oxford Landing 2009 Shiraz (South Australia). Bright berry fruit is jammy and simply
fruity, but clean and soft. Drink this medium-bodied,
supple Shiraz over the next year or so. Negociants USA,
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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R Wines 2008 Strong Arms Shiraz (South
Australia). An easy-to-drink, burger and pizza sort of Shiraz, with slightly uneven notes of ripe and
raisined fruit and soft acids and tannins. The Grateful
Palate. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $10
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Angove’s 2008 Red Belly Black Shiraz
(South Australia). A lean, streamlined version of Aussie Shiraz, with leathery notes of dried currants that finish firm and crisp. Trinchero Family Estates. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $11
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Queensgate 2009 Shiraz (South Eastern
Australia). This is a light- to medium-bodied
Shiraz with a bright profile of juicy red berries and just
a hint of chocolate, turning rather crisp on the finish.
Drink now. Winery Exchange. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $8
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Andrew Peace 2009 Masterpeace Shiraz (South Eastern Australia). This light- to
medium-bodied Shiraz is crisp and tart, yet also shows
some dried-fruit character on the finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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De Bortoli 2008 DB Family Selection Shiraz (South Eastern Australia). Herbal and
green peppercornish, with dark berry flavors and herbal-vegetal notes. Light and crisp; complex for the price.
De Bortoli Wines USA Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $9
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Paringa 2009 Shiraz (South Australia).
Very sweet and soft, with mocha notes punctuated by brighter berry flavors that come across as nearly
cloying on the finish. Quintessential Wines. —J.C.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $10
ARGENTINE WHITES
CHARDONNAY
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Bodega Catena Zapata 2010 Catena
Chardonnay (Mendoza). Toasty right from
the start, with a good application of barrel aromas mixed
with apple and butterscotch. The palate is both creamy
and vital due to core acidity, while the flavors run tropical, sweet, citrusy and resiny. Keeps its zing on the finish, which tastes sweet and ripe. Winebow. —M.S.
Price: $20
abv: 13.5%
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DiamAndes 2010 Chardonnay (Uco Valley). Toasty apple aromas are familiar and generic. It’s full in the mouth, with an oak-based resiny
grab and woody flavors of banana, pear and baked apple. A lot of woodspice lingers on the creamy finish,
which is slightly bitter in taste. Dourthe USA. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Monteviejo 2009 Lindaflor Chardonnay
(Mendoza). Yellow in color, with baked corn,
heavy oak and implied sweetness on the bouquet. The
palate is almost syrupy in feel, with sugary flavors of
baked pear, apple and butterscotch. Finishes weighty
and heavy; almost like a late-harvest wine. Drink immediately. Bob Bofman Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
to cheesy. The palate has some jump in it, but the flavors are generic and sweet, suggesting mealy citrus and
banana. A rudimentary wine with a gimmicky name.
IBESC Wine Distributor. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $8
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Añoro 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza).
Opens with mellow peach and melon aromas
and some oak. The palate is round, creamy and full, but
hollow in the center. Tastes of spiced, dried apple with
a stalky, pithy accent. Easy and basic on the finish, and
overall it’s pricey for what’s in the bottle. Vine Connections. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
85
Espiritu de Argentina 2010 Chardonnay
(Mendoza). After a slightly murky start the
nose settles on basic apple and sweet oak. The palate
is full, with citrusy acidity and chunky flavors of melon
and orange. Maintains focus on the finish, with lychee
and lime flavors pushing it towards tropical. Drink now.
Broadbent Selections, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
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Luca 2009 G Lot Chardonnay (Tupungato). A resiny, oily nose is barrel heavy and
a strong clue of what’s to come. The palate has a thick,
syrupy feel and sweet, almost sugary flavors of pear and
melon. By the time it’s wrapping up, the wine veers towards cloying. Has its virtues but it’s entirely too sweet
in this critic’s opinion. Vine Connections. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
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Portillo 2010 Estate Bottled Chardonnay
(Uco Valley). Light and mostly neutral smelling, with a hint of pear and apple. The palate is zesty,
lean and well cut, however the flavors are more pithy
and bitter, with orange and nectarine notes. Finishes
hot and peppery. Palm Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
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Proemio 2009 Chardonnay (Mendoza).
Light, lemony aromas come with a hint of buttercup. The palate is basic, wet and juicy, with average
citrus and apple flavors. Finishes solid and mostly fresh,
with generic sweet apple and melon notes along with
some weight. Atlanta Improvement Co. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Tilia 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Opens
with oily, hard aromas of peanut brittle and resin. After it airs out, it’s lively in the mouth and grabby,
with resiny, bitter notes mixing with core citrus flavors.
Zesty but pithy on the finish. Winebow. —M.S.
Price: $10
abv: 13.5%
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Zuccardi 2010 Q Chardonnay (Mendoza). Resiny oak is front and center on the nose,
turning any and all fruit spicy. The palate is wet and basic, with a woody feel and oaky flavors that include spices and white fruits. Offers proper weight but smells and
tastes overtly resiny. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
83
Arge & Tina 2009 Chardonnay (San
Juan). Sweet melon and apple aromas fall off
Septima 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza).
Heavy and oily smelling, and a bit mealy, too.
The palate is o.k. in feel; but it’s vapid and pithy tasting,
with bitterness to the finish. Underwhelming. Aveniù
Brands, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
SAUVIGNON BLANC
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Michel Torino 2010 Ciclos Fume Sauvignon Blanc (Salta). Round, floral and sweet
smelling, with citrusy acidity that pushes up passion
fruit, orange and lemon flavors. There’s weight and
body come finishing time, and the overall impression is
that of a tropical, dense white wine with some creaminess. Priced high for what you get. Frederick Wildman
& Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $27
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Portillo 2010 Estate Bottled Sauvignon
Blanc (Uco Valley). Citrus and peach aromas are basic but clean. The palate starts out fresh and
easy before losing some steam, but along the way there’s
peach, green apple and dry melon flavors. Good for a
simple, tropical-style white wine. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Valentin Bianchi 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Mendoza). Neutral on the nose, with a touch
of white fruit essence peeking through. The palate is
easygoing and slightly lemony, with lemon-lime flavors and tropical overtones. Finishes sweet and bland.
Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
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Pulenta Estate 2010 VI Sauvignon Blanc
(Luján de Cuyo). Smells murky and sweaty,
with corn and wheat aromas in addition to strained citrus. The palate is chunky, with acrid flavors that underwhelm. Finishes sulphuric, green and weedy. Paul
Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
TORRONTÉS
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Doña Paula 2010 Estate Torrontés (Salta). Orange blossom, nectarine and almond
skin aromas are true to the grape and inviting. The palate maintains a light, juicy, citric feel as it delivers flavors
of melon, apple and banana. Fresh and forward, with a
hint of heat and bitterness to the finish. Southern Wine
and Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
86
François Lurton 2010 Torrontés (Uco Valley). Light and somewhat neutral smelling,
with peach and pool water aromas. It’s fresh, tangy and
WineMag.com | 19
light on its feet, with citrus, melon and mild pithy flavors. Finishes similar, with lasting freshness, mild bitter notes and varietal correctness. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
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Tilia 2010 Torrontés (Salta). A simple, clean
bouquet of white and tropical fruit is as it should
be. The palate has an oily texture and textbook flavors
of mango, pineapple and melon. Slightly oily feeling
on the finish as well. Good for a simple, tropical warmweather quaffer. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Espiritu de Argentina 2010 Torrontés
(Mendoza). Bitter orange and Fantastik cleaner aromas are not what you’d call lithe and welcoming.
Spritzy and jumpy on the palate, with mealy orange and
juniper flavors. Finishes pickled, with a tangy grapefruit
carryover. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
OTHER WHITE WINES
88
La Posta 2010 Cocina Blanco (Mendoza). A natural type of blended white with vanilla, powdered sugar, peach, pear and citrus on the
bouquet. The palate is fresh and zesty, with apple, citrus and peach flavors, and no oak, resin or toast foisted
into the glass. Nicely focused throughout, with a good
mouthfeel. Chardonnay with 15% each of Sauvignon
Blanc and Torrontés. Vine Connections. —M.S.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $15
The palate runs narrow and tight, with sharp acidity and
stalky flavors of lemon, green apple and lime. Finishes
fresh and cutting, with controlled pithiness. 70% Chardonnay and 30% SB. Vias Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
85
Zuccardi 2010 Serie A ChardonnayViognier (Mendoza). Sulphuric at first, with
citrus and air freshener aromas. The palate has a certain roundness and fleshy quality, while the flavors are
sweet, melony and a little oily. Some almond-skin bitterness rises up late, most likely reflecting the 25% Viognier in the blend. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Finca El Origen 2010 Reserva Viognier
(Uco Valley). Starts out volatile, with a burning sensation to the nose. After settling, the palate
shows heat along with baked apple, melon and bitterness. Finishes solid but pithy, with some leftover heat.
Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $12
83
Montepio 2010 Pinot Gris (San Juan). Salinic and minerally on the nose, with a hint of
peach. The palate is wet and light, however the flavors
run stalky and tart, with green banana and bitterness
leading to a chalky finish. Quaffable. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
DESSERT WINES
Luigi Bosca 2010 Finca La Linda Viognier
(Luján de Cuyo). Minerally and dry smelling,
with floral aromas along with the scents of white peach
and apple. The palate feels good and clean, with roundness matched by nice acidity. Flavors of spiced apple
and pith are supported by zestiness, while the finish
is honest. Not many value-priced Viogniers can match
this. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $11
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Mendel 2010 Sémillon (Mendoza). A challenging white wine that bears a resemblance to
Bordeaux Sémillon. The nose starts out sweaty and with
phosphorous, but it turns more honeyed and complex
with airing. The palate is plump and balanced, with layered honey, melon, apple and pith flavors. By the time
it finishes up, it’s showing complexity, butterscotch and
white pepper notes. Interesting but not for all. Vine
Connections. —M.S.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $25
86
Callia 2010 Pinot Grigio (Tulum Valley).
Round and floral, with melon and other simple,
clean aromas. Good mouthfeel, proper acidity and basic, likable flavors of citrus, green apple, green banana
and tropical fruits make it a good quaffer and a good
value. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
85
Benegas 2010 Clara Benegas Chardonnay-Sauvignon (Mendoza). Muddled apple
and spice aromas are o.k. and improve with familiarity.
Familia Marguery 2008 Historias Passito de los Andes Muscat (Mendoza). A bit
shocking and overpowering initially, with pull-back early aromas and alcohol-related burn. Give it time and it
displays itself as a full, ripe, complex wine with heavy extraction and ripe peach, apricot and bitter flavors. Toffee and caramel lead the spicy, still-bitter finish. Southern Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25/500 ml
Palo Alto 2010 Coiron Late Harvest Chardonnay (Maipú). Chunky, unfocused aromas
tell you almost all you need to know. The wine is edgy
and cidery, with mustard and pickled flavors. Stalky and
jumbled on the finish. Casa Corbello, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12/500 ml
ROSÉS
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Dominio del Plata 2011 Crios Rosé of
Malbec (Mendoza). Shiny pink in color, with
youthful, crisp aromas of cherry and watermelon. Zesty
and fresh on the tongue, with spunky cherry and raspberry flavors that finish with natural sweetness. Candied
to an extent, but mostly it’s fresh and balanced. Vine
Connections. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
86
Finca El Origen 2010 Malbec Rosé (Mendoza). For full review see page 13.
84
Gauchezco 2010 Malbec Rosé (Mendoza). Funky smelling, with a mix of sweat, hot
summer field and leather. It’s more fresh in the mouth,
with adequate acidity and stalky, slightly minty flavors mixed with mild berry notes. Finishes bland. Cellarthief, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
83
Caligiore 2010 Pianissimo Rosé (Mendoza). Heavy and stalky smelling, with burnt
aromas. The leaden palate is weighty and short on freshness; tastes pithy and stalky, with some nectarine and
plum thrown in. Seems to be fading. Marquee Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
ARGENTINE REDS
MALBEC
92
Bodega Renacer 2008 Renacer R Malbec
(Mendoza). Dense blackberry fruit reigns supreme on the nose, with smoke and dark, earthy notes
lying in wait. The palate has a firm tightness and oaky
black-fruit flavors that offer a twinge of coconut and
herbs. Toasty and chocolaty on the finish. A big, stacked
Malbec to drink now through 2013. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $65
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Nieto Senetiner 2009 Terroir Blend Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see page 6.
Riglos 2008 Gran Malbec (Mendoza). For
Trivento 2008 Eolo Malbec (Luján de
Cuyo). Eolo is apparently on the upswing in
just its 3rd incarnation. The nose is deep and sweet,
with licorice, rubber, lemon peel and tobacco to go with
bold berry aromas. Shows immensity and structure in
the mouth, with layered blackberry flavors and creaminess. Fades well, with tobacco and leather gracing the
finish. Drink now through 2014. Banfi Vintners. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $79
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Bodega Renacer 2008 Punto Final Reserva Malbec (Perdriel). A rich Malbec with
graham cracker, pastry, blackberrry and boysenberry
aromas. Talk about super concentrated; this is thick but
balanced, with tannic grip and dark, baked flavors of
berry and chocolate. Bulky on the finish, with peppery
spice, vanilla and a touch of heat. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
91
Finca El Origen 2009 El Origen Gran
Reserva Malbec (Uco Valley). For full review see page 6.
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Gauchezco 2009 Plata Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see page 6.
Martino 2009 Old Vine Malbec (Mendoza). A winning Malbec for under $20. The nose
is pure and hits with a blast of licorice, tobacco, cola,
blackberry and dry balsam wood. The palate is driving,
with blackberry, black plum and pepper flavors. Potent
but balanced on the way out. Drink now and over the
next couple of years. Southern Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
mouth, with smacking tannins and just enough cushion
to soften things up. Minty and woody tasting, with berry,
tobacco and peppery flavors on the palate and finish.
Delectatio Wines. —M.S.
Price: $45
abv: 14.5%
91
Mendel 2009 Lunta Malbec (Mendoza).
Big, woody and pure, with attractive plum and
berry aromas that bring earth and toast. The mouth is
alert and features textured tannins, while the flavor profile is a bit rooty and sweet, with roasted black fruit and
spice. Grabby, warm and stout on the finish. Vine Connections. —M.S.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
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Pulenta Estate 2008 Gran Malbec (Luján
de Cuyo). Tight and deep, with leather, dried
cheese and full berry aromas. The palate is jammy and
lush in feel, with roasted, mile-deep berry and licorice
flavors. A fine Malbec that’s easy to drink and black in
style; the finish runs long and solid as berry fruit and
toasty oak hold court. Drink now through 2013. Paul
Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Sottano 2008 Judas Malbec (Mendoza). Opens like a luxury-level Malbec should;
it’s dark and dense, with black cherry, smoke and rubbery aromas. The palate is deep and juicy, with bold,
attractive black fruit, plum, tobacco and vanilla flavors.
Smooth, healthy and drinkable now. Well-Oiled Wine
Company. —M.S.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $90
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Cruz Andina 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). A
full-force Malbec with classy black fruit, rubber, cassis and balsamic aromas. The palate sports a nice
mouthfeel, fine balance and tasty flavors of herbs, blackberry, roasted plum and chocolate. Elegant but strong,
with layering and a lot of qualities for a $20 wine.
Huneeus Vintners. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $20
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Ricominciare 2008 Altísimo Malbec (Uco
Valley). An exotic style of Malbec with Middle Eastern spice, violet, anise and berry aromas. The
palate has hammering tannins but enough body to absorb it, leaving herbal black fruit, fig and peppery flavors. Warm and toasty on the finish, with savory notes
that last for a good long while. The Artisan Collection.
—M.S.
Price: $30
abv: 14%
90
Susana Balbo 2009 Signature Malbec
(Mendoza). Heavily charred and roasted
throughout, with a blackened nose. The palate is broad
and chewy, with thick tannins and roasted, ripe flavors
of blackberry, licorice and bitter chocolate. Remains severely toasted all the way to the final drop; aged in 80%
new French oak (apparently fully toasted oak). Vine
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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Zorzal 2008 Climax Malbec (Tupungato).
Berry fruit aromas blend nicely with cola, forest, toast and barrel aromas. It’s crisp yet deep in the
Bodega Catena Zapata 2009 Catena Malbec (Mendoza). Smoky but also sort of salinic
on the nose, with pumped-up berry and black currant
aromas. The palate is chewy and a bit heavy, with dark
berry, cassis and peppery flavors. Heavy, sultry and black
on the finish, with a lasting syrupy sweetness. Should be
appealing to most Malbec fans. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
Domiciano de Barrancas 2008 Cosecha
Nocturna Malbec (Mendoza). Gritty on the
greeting, with char, plum, berry and juniper aromas.
The palate is full-bodied, with nice raspberry, plum and
spice flavors. Good and easy as it unfolds on the finish.
Well-mannered and juicy, with a notch or two of complexity. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
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Finca El Origen 2010 Reserva Malbec
(Uco Valley).For full review see page 10.
Finca La Anita 2010 Tonada Malbec
(Mendoza). Attractive berry and dried fig aromas are rich and healthy. The pretty bouquet is backed
by bright, juicy blackberry flavors that come with a spicy
backing. Lightly toasted and smooth on the finish; overall this is uncomplicated Malbec that hits the spot. San
Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $20
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Gauchezco 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). For
Gouguenheim Winery 2008 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Round, earthy and full, with
leather, spice and several other good things floating
about the nose. The palate has a crisp and zesty feel,
with bright plum and berry flavors accented by spice,
herb and a touch of buttery oak. Solid, tight and stylish
for the price. Vias Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Lagarde 2008 Primeras Viñas Malbec
(Mendoza). Floral berry aromas bring prune
and tree bark as well. The palate is warm but not overextracted, while the flavors of red plum, dry herbs, berry
and resiny vanilla turn lemony on the back end. Juicy,
perky and herbal on the finish, with some heat. WellOiled Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $49
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Tikal 2009 Amorío Malbec (Mendoza). A
savory bouquet includes aromas of chocolate,
smoke, blackberry and earthy plum. The palate shows
grip and a syrupy density, while the flavors run towards
candied black fruits, leather and savory spice. Very ripe
and a bit soft and sweet. Drink now through 2013. Vine
Price: $33
abv: NA
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Valentin Bianchi 2008 Particular Malbec
(San Rafael). Attractive and not overpowering on the bouquet, with plum and red berry aromas
mixing with smoky rubber and floral hints. The acidity,
however, is piercing and racy, creating angularity on the
palate along with red plum, raspberry, vanilla and coconut flavors. A fiery, pointy Malbec with very nice flavors
and length. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
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Alamos 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). For full
review see page 11.
Finca 8 2008 Reserva Malbec (Uco Valley). Blueberry, spice, sandalwood and foresty
aromas are the good elements; funky, foxy additions not
so much. The palate sports a raw, scratchy feel with hard
tannins that go with strawberry, plum and vanilla flavors. Tastes and feels lactic on the finish, with a snappy
offset. Good Malbec but it struggles to achieve harmony
and total balance. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $45
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Finca Perdriel 2008 Colección Malbec
(Mendoza). Smoky, savory and fairly dense on
the bouquet, with blackberry and a bit of earthy funk
to it. Lush, jammy and chewy in the mouth, with baked
blackberry, pepper, baking spice and other earthy flavors. Registers as a chunky, saturated and ripe wine with
weight to spare. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
88
Kaiken 2009 Ultra Malbec (Mendoza).
The first impression is all about raisin and
prune, aromas that suggest overripeness. Despite that
sweetness, the palate is deep, saturated and layered,
with dark berry and raisin flavors along with fig, spice
and chocolate. Very rich and softly built; best if you like
sweeter, richer reds. Drink now. T.G.I.C. Importers.
—M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $20
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Kirkland Signature 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see page 11.
Sottano 2008 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Roasted and rubbery on first take, with aromas of leather, beefy blackberry and a pinch of herbal
juniper and sharpness. The palate is racy and flows well,
with lightly herbal flavors of red plum, raspberry and
leather. Long on the finish, with a juicy feel. Well-Oiled
Wine Company. —M.S.
Price: $25
abv: 14.5%
88
Zuccardi 2010 Serie A Malbec (Mendoza). Full and dark from the beginning, with
black plum, floral notes and a clean overall presentation. It’s full, zesty and has proper mouthfeel, while the
flavors of berry, toast and herbs are honest and generous. Stylish on the finish; nice Malbec. Winesellers Ltd.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
87
Carlos Basso 2010 Dos Fincas Malbec
(Uco Valley). Rubbery and gaseous at first, but
with time weighty, meaty black fruit aromas come out.
WineMag.com | 21
The wine carries a rich, syrupy mouthfeel and dense,
dark flavors of blackberry and pepper. Chunky on the
finish, which is thick in feel but short in length. Southern Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
87
Dominio del Plata 2010 Crios Malbec
(Mendoza). Full, dark and smoky on the nose,
then juicy, tight and well built on the palate. Tastes
good, with fast-moving black fruit and chocolate flavors
fading quickly into a clean, moderate finish. Lively and
tight for Malbec. Vine Connections. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
87
Luca 2009 Malbec (Uco Valley). Thick
and concentrated aromas feature barrel-driven toast, lemon peel and savory berry. It’s rather flat,
sweet and jammy in the mouth, with buttery berry fruit
and then a sugary candy flavor. Very sweet and soft on
the finish; needs more edge, spine, acidity and clarity to
rank higher. Vine Connections. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
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Menduco 2010 Reserve Malbec (Uco Valley). For full review see page 12.
Salentein 2009 Killka Collection Malbec
(Uco Valley). Sweet and floral smelling, with
jammy berry fruit pouring out of the bouquet. There’s
snap and lift to the mouthfeel along with rubbery berry,
plum, chocolate and herbal flavors. Tight and grippy on
the finish, which has an herbal tinge. Palm Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
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Santa Julia 2010 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see page 13.
Sottano 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Opens
with burnt rubber aromas that soon yield to berry fruit, char and dark chocolate. The palate is snappy
and tangy despite feeling full, while the flavors of herbs
and berry are quickly replaced by resiny oak. Finishes firm, with herbal notes and carob. Well-Oiled Wine
Company. —M.S.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $17
87
Tilia 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Crisp and
a little minty smelling, with wild berry and dry
spice as the primary aromas. It’s thick and chunky but
well balanced, with sweet, slightly medicinal flavors of
black fruits and mint. Solid and smooth on the finish.
Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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86
Valentin Bianchi 2010 Elsa Bianchi Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see page 13.
Bodegas Caro 2010 Aruma Malbec (Mendoza). Big, thick and herbal on the nose, with
initial funk that suggests sweaty leather. The palate feels
heavy and extracted, with herbal blueberry and blackberry flavors. Stays leathery and herbal through the finish. A new lower-priced wine from Bodegas Caro. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
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Callia 2010 Alta Malbec (Tulum Valley).
For full review see page 13.
La Posta 2009 Angel Paulucci Vineyard
Malbec (Mendoza). Lemony and strange at
first, with gamy notes, leather and incense. The palate
feels chunky and medicinal, with herbal, sweet, jumbled
flavors of candied blackberry. Finishes flat and quick,
leaving medicinal sweetness. Vine Connections. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
86
Michel Torino 2009 Don David Finca La
Maravilla #6 Malbec (Cafayate). A bit
grassy and green, with good power, herbal black fruit
aromas, spice and cola. The palate is very high in acidity, which at first creates a sheering sharpness and tart
plum flavors. With more airing it grows rounder and
more complex, but overall it’s exacting, odd and funky.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
86
Notro 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). A bit raw
and hot on the nose, with wild berry aromas
and some fiery horseradish before it rounds into form.
The palate has a good, regular feel and crisp plum and
red cherry flavors. Fruity and fresh, but limited. Hand
Picked Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
86
Tercos 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Woodsy,
spicy aromas form a solid opening. There’s adequate acidity on the palate along with raspberry, red
plum and mild herbal notes. Racy, spicy and just toasty
enough to rate well across the finish. Global Vineyard
Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $12
86
Tomero 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). A touch
raw and rough on the bouquet, with rubbery
berry aromas and earth notes that suggest compost. The
palate is thick but shows angular tannins, while the flavors are oaky and creamy, with basic berry and plum intermixed. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
85
Argana 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Sweet
and jammy on the nose, then clampy and grabby on the palate, with woody, tight-grained flavors of
pepper and clove. Turns more narrow and even more
clove-dominated on the finish. Has its merits and good
structure, but the fruit is blanketed by forceful clove
and hickory flavors. Atlanta Improvement Co. —M.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $12
85
Coiron 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Roasted
and brambly on the nose, with lemon, burnt
notes and spice more than bold berry fruit. The palate
has a tight, rubbery feel and flavors of hickory, clove and
mild red berry. A decent but standard and slightly oaky
Malbec. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
85
Tempus Alba 2009 8 mo in 70% Fr and
30% US oak Malbec (Mendoza). Generic
red berry aromas show a stalky element as well. The palate is juicy and acidic, with a pointed quality that makes
the feel a little hard. Flavors of standard red berry are
sweet but undistinguished. Good but regular. Mistica
Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
85
Toneles del Sur 2008 Malbec (Mendoza).
Jammy and reduced on the nose, with medicinal
red berry and plum aromas. The palate is high in acidity, with a mix of herbal berry, roasted plum and leathery, earthy flavors. Sheer on the finish, where the acidity
and tannic bite are forceful. Wine Brindis Importers.
—M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $16
85
Zorzal 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Hard,
roasted and rubbery aromas suggest compost
and autumn leaves. The palate is tight and layered, but
tannic, with black fruit flavors, heavy spice notes and
herbal leanings. Finishes with leafy notes, licorice and
bitterness. Wine Brindis Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
84
Bodega del Fin del Mundo 2010 Postales
Malbec (Neuquén). A bit stalky to begin with;
there’s tobacco, herbs and generic berry aromas that
turn raisiny upon airing. The palate is definitely on the
raisiny side, and thus it’s sweet, a bit flat and ultimately
tastes and feels slightly overripe. Gaucho Imports, LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
84
Don Cristobal 1492 2010 Finca La Niña
Malbec (Mendoza). Stalky aromas suggest
hay and green herbs, with raspberry in the backdrop.
It’s hot and short in terms of mouthfeel, with herbal flavors leading the way and berry fruit running behind.
Dry red fruit and herbal notes dominate the finish. Eagle Eye Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
84
Espuela del Gaucho 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Light berry aromas mix with brine,
cumin and sweet spice on the nose. In the mouth, it’s
rather lean and juicy, with sharp acidity creating fresh
red berry flavors and tang. Turns more piercing and citrusy the longer it airs out. Winery Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
84
Matias Bertona Wines 2008 Inspiratto
Malbec (Mendoza). Hot and spicy on the
nose, with red pepper flake and floral red berry aromas.
The palate is quite sharp and sheering, with raspberry,
red plum and medicinal flavors. Hard and hot on the
finish, with tangy acids and prevailing juiciness. Wine
Brindis Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $16
84
Mendel 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Clipped
and pruney smelling, with condensed, dull aromas. The palate is soft and mealy, with big tannins, heft
and prune-like flavors. Never really finds solid ground
or footing; substandard for Mendel. Vine Connections.
—M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $30
84
Michel Torino 2009 Don David Reserve
Malbec (Calchaqui Valley). A disjointed,
out-of-the-box Malbec that starts out peanutty and
earthy on the nose. Things round out aromatically, but
in the mouth it’s angular and edgy, with stunted blackberry flavors offset by tartness. Has its positives but
overall it doesn’t fully click. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. —M.S.
Price: $16
abv: 13.9%
84
Noble Aconcagua 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Scratchy, generic red berry aromas are the
opening. The palate runs narrow and tight, with clacky
red berry flavors followed by a sugary sweetness. Candied and sweet on the finish before mild bitterness sets
in. Bob Bofman Selections. —M.S.
Price: $14
abv: 14.1%
84
VinEcol 2010 Made With Organic Grapes
Malbec (Mendoza). Opens with jammy aromas but it’s also stewed and stalky. The palate is resiny
and tannic, which means it’s grabby. Tastes a bit leafy
and burnt, with spiced, roasted red plum flavors. Offers
mostly oak spice and heat on the finish. Mistica Wines
LLC. —M.S.
Price: $13
abv: 14%
83
Caligiore 2008 Organic Legacy Old Vines
Malbec (Mendoza). Sweet and syrupy smelling, with maple-covered doughnut and muddled spice
and tree bark aromas. The palate is more cutting and
acidic than expected, with a sheer mouthfeel and heavy
vanilla and oak flavors covering up underdeveloped red
fruit notes. Hard, crisp and tannic stuff. Marquee Selections. —M.S.
Price: $25
abv: 13.9%
83
Gardel 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Candied
and green on the nose, with odd spice scents.
The palate is lean in weight and hollow in the middle, with simple red fruit, cough drop and caramel flavors. Finishes basic and short. Frontier Wine Imports.
—M.S.
Price: $12
abv: 13.3%
83
Pasaje Alto 2010 Andes Crossing Malbec
(Mendoza). Smells earthy and leathery, with a
grilled meat element to the nose. The palate runs sharp
and high in acid, with narrow plum flavors. Doesn’t offer a whole lot on the finish. More rubbery and tart than
ideal. Clock Tower Imports. —M.S.
Price: $12
abv: 13.5%
81
Familia Marguery 2010 Casa Marguery
Malbec (Mendoza). Briary, herbal plum and
berry aromas come with a leafy, tomato side. Look for a
hard and clacky mouthfeel with herbal, leafy flavors of
red plum and cherry. Stays mulchy on the finish. Southern Wine Group. —M.S.
Price: $15
abv: 13.7%
81
La Riojana Coop 2010 Triada Malbec (La
Rioja). Creamy and chocolaty on the nose,
with vanilla notes creating a candied persona. The palate is flabby and overly sweet, with confected berry fla-
vors and a soft, mushy finish. Lacks balance. Evaki Inc.
—M.S.
Price: $10
abv: 12.5%
burnt character to the plum-packed palate. Bitter and
peppery on the finish. Eco Valley. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
PINOT NOIR
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Finca Don Carlos 2010 Calathus Roble
Pinot Noir (Mendoza). Rubbery and smoky
at first, with earthy, leathery aromas. Snappy, crisp and
juicy in the mouth, with honest PN flavors of light red
fruits, toast and oak-based spice and chocolate. Dry,
clean and a bit hot on the finish. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S.
Price: $25
abv: 13.9%
87
Rutini 2010 Trumpeter Pinot Noir (Mendoza). Dry, spicy aromas work well with core
raspberry and earthy notes. The palate has a healthy
mouthfeel and honest flavors of brown sugar, toast and
black cherry. Spice and tempered caramel flavors grace
the finish, which has vigor and confirms the value factor and overall quality. Pasternak Wine Imports. Best
Buy. —M.S.
Price: $11
abv: 13.5%
85
Don Rodolfo 2010 High Altitude Vineyards Pinot Noir (Cafayate). A touch stemmy and cooked smelling, with Cafayate’s patented herbal notes. The palate has a regular feel and briary, herbal
flavors of pepper, tobacco and red berry fruit. Spicy and
warm on the finish, but good in a competent way. Cabernet Corporation. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $10
abv: 13.5%
84
Funky Llama 2010 Pinot Noir (Mendoza).
Mildly stemmy and rubbery on the nose, then
grabby and chalky on the palate, with herbal, jumbled
red fruit and earthy flavors. Dry, short and juicy on the
finish, which is solid and average in length. Tastings Import Company. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $7
abv: 13%
84
Nieto Senetiner 2010 Reserva Pinot Noir
(Mendoza). Hard cherry and spice aromas are
varietally correct, while the palate is standard in feel,
with toasty, creamy flavors of sweet berry. Has enough
acidity and vibrancy to rank as juicy on the finish.
Winebow. —M.S.
Price: $11
abv: 14.3%
SYRAH/SHIRAZ
82
Argana 2010 Syrah (Mendoza). Scratchy,
reedy raspberry aromas set up an edgy, tight
and drying wash of tart plum fruit and then a peppery,
woodspiced finish. Tart and astringent overall. Atlanta
Improvement Co. —M.S.
Price: $12
abv: 13.2%
81
Valle de la Puerta 2010 La Puerta Syrah
(Famatina Valley). Earthy and murky smelling, with hard, clamping tannins and a leafy, herbal,
Funky Llama 2010 Shiraz (Mendoza).
Smells muddled, like a mix of spiced ground
beef and dusty earth. Cutting and citrusy on the palate,
with pie cherry and sour plum flavors. Gritty and tart
on the finish as well. Tastings Import Company. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $7
80
Finca El Origen 2010 Syrah (Mendoza).
Rubbery on the nose, then sharp in the mouth,
with herbal, sour plum flavors and weird funk as well.
Bitter, tart and hard on the finish. Carolina Wine Brands
USA. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $8
80
Tierras de Ponte 2010 Syrah (San Juan).
Cherry cough drop and clove spice carry the
nose. Expect a hard, sharp, high-pitched wine that’s
sour and citrusy. Tart and lean Syrah. Atlanta Improvement Co. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
BONARDA
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Zuccardi 2009 Emma Bonarda (Mendoza). For full review see page 8.
Viejo Isaias 2010 Clásico Bonarda (Mendoza). Robust berry and plum aromas come
with ample toast and spice. The palate has a crisp, focused feel and kicking black fruit and berry flavors.
Finishes bright, solid and toasty, with a controlled coffee-like bitterness. Very nice wine; only 200 cases produced. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $16
88
Zuccardi 2010 Serie A Bonarda (Mendoza). A thick-styled Bonarda with honest berry
and peppery spice aromas. It’s borderline syrupy in feel,
with a streak of acidity to keep it balanced. Flavors of
plum, wild berry and currant lean towards red, while
the finish is long and strong, albeit sticky and weighty.
Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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85
Nieto Senetiner 2010 Reserva Bonarda
(Mendoza). For full review see page 12.
La Posta 2009 Estela Armando Vineyard
Bonarda (Mendoza). Blueberry and other
sweet berry aromas are flowery but not very staunch or
dark. The palate has a high acidity level and a scouring
feel to go with tart, driving cherry and red plum flavors.
Scratchy, zesty and crisp on the finish, with tight tannins
that draw down. Vine Connections. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
85
Tilia 2010 Bonarda (Mendoza). Smoky and
rubbery upon opening, with woodspice settling in as the dominant aroma. Tight and jagged in the
mouth, with minty, toasty flavors of black fruits and pep-
WineMag.com | 23
per. Turns more drawing, tannic, drying and woody with
time. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
82
Espiritu de Argentina 2009 Bonarda
(Mendoza). Stemmy and funky smelling, with
a burnt, stalky element to the core aromas. The palate
grates and tastes of stemmy, burnt berry fruit. Stemmy
and herbal on the finish as well. Broadbent Selections,
Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
CABERNETS & BLENDS
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Riglos 2008 Gran Corte (Mendoza). For
Benegas 2006 Benegas Lynch Meritage
(Mendoza). Huge as a grizzly bear, with grilled
meat, dried herbs and oregano on the nose. The palate is really big, with astringent tannins and large flavors of toast, blackberry, spice and caramel. Finishes
sweet, with burnt brown sugar and drying tannins. A
four-grape wine led by Cabernet Sauvignon. Vias Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
90
Altamira 2006 Navigato Family Selection
Grand Reserve (Uco Valley). Nicely staged
aromas of berry, plum, coconut and vanilla set up a driving, full-force palate that’s lemony in feel and offers
potent flavors of raspberry, plum, herbs and oak. Dry,
woody and a touch fiery, with power to spare. Just 250
cases made. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $65
90
Bodega del Fin del Mundo 2006 Gran
Reserva (Patagonia). Roasted at first, with
coffee, grilled meat and earth aromas taking the lead.
Narrow in the mouth, with firm tannins that frame ripe
and healthy raspberry flavors accented by vanilla and
cola. A little bit traditional in that it’s earthy and dry,
but it’s not devoid of fruit and attitude. Gaucho Imports,
LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
88
Bodega Catena Zapata 2009 Catena
Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Solid and
inviting up front, with licorice, menthol, floral berry
and power. The palate is tight, firm, tannic and lemony,
with oak-based vanilla, dill and lemon flavors accenting
meaty but generic berry fruit. Snappy and tight on the
finish, with plenty of acidity. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Kaiken 2008 Ultra Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). Spicy and bricky on the nose, with
tobacco, earth and herbal red berry aromas. The palate is round and tight, with roasted cassis and berry flavors along with a dusty aftertaste. Sweet on the finish,
like brown sugar and roasted berries. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
Price: $20
abv: 14.5%
88
Felipe Rutini 2006 Encuentro MalbecMerlot (Mendoza). A pungent aromatic brew
of stewy plum, burnt rubber, grilled meat and leather
leads to a high-acid, spiky palate featuring herbal plum
and tangy black currant flavors. Packs punch on the
nose and throughout, with aggressiveness at all check
points. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
87
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Luigi Bosca 2008 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipú). Rooty and smoky smelling,
with hickory, roasted berry, cherry and red currant aromas. The palate is smartly structured, with cassis, plum
and other solid berry flavors. Finishes with composure
and length; a likable wine for grilled meats. Testa Wines
Of The World. —M.S.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $21
88
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Viña Cobos 2009 Felino Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Chocolaty raspberry and
plum aromas are oaky and hint at vanilla. The palate
is fairly soft, with freshening acidity hoisting up sweet
plum and blackberry jam flavors. Rich and stout late,
with molasses on the finish. More easy and ready than
tannic and firm. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
88
Zuccardi 2008 Q Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). Woodsy aromas lead the charge,
followed by mocha, smoke, raspberry and plum. There’s
good acidic lift to the palate and toasty, dark flavors of
roasted berry, cassis and chocolate. Finishes lively and
bright. Solid Cabernet for the money; a good wine to
match with beef. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
89
Finca Perdriel 2008 Colección Cabernet
Sauvignon (Mendoza). Smoky, rich and savory to start out, with compact berry and plum aromas
that slant towards raisin with airing. The palate is warm,
full and offers good structure; flavors of baked plum and
berry are nice and the finish is savory and firm, with tannic framing. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Michel Torino 2008 Ciclos Malbec-Merlot
(Salta). Layered aromas of cassis, berry, coffee
and mocha come with regional Cafayate green notes.
The palate is lively and offers ribald acidity along with
red plum, berry, vanilla, spice and toast flavors. Turns
more oaky the longer it’s open, with vanilla and dill on
the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $30
Santa Julia 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). For full review see page 11.
Bodega Norton 2008 Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). A fruity, jammy style of Cab with thick berry aromas resting in front
of a full-bodied, chewy palate with forward red berry
and chocolate flavors. This is smooth, not complex and
easygoing proof that Argentina is not only about Malbec. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
Kaiken 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Ripe, rubbery berry aromas become like
chocolate-covered cherry with time. The palate is full
and a bit syrupy, while the palate is creamy and sweet,
with baked blackberry and peppery flavors. Sweet and
soft on the finish, with herbs and a touch of coffee-like
bitterness. T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
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Noble Aconcagua 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Rooty aromas of tree bark,
cola, tobacco and sweet briar set up a plump, tannic palate with roasted, sweet flavors of Mission fig, dark berry
and spice. It’s easygoing and loamy on the finish, with
chewy tannins and not too much bite. Bob Bofman Selections. —M.S.
Price: $14
abv: 14.1%
Riglos 2008 Las Divas Vineyard Gran
Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato). Fairly
herbal on first take, with green, peppery core aromas
coming with wood spice and black fruit. The palate is
firm and clacky, with tannic clamp and jammy flavors
of baked plum that turn candied the longer it airs out.
Sweet and jammy by the time it finishes. Paul Hobbs
Wines. —M.S.
Price: $30
abv: 14.7%
87
Tomero 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Rustic on first blush, with smoky, lightly
baked berry fruit aromas. It’s rubbery and grabby in the
mouth, with sweet caramel and brown sugar accents to
the core baked berry fruit flavors. Toasty and peppery
on the finish, then sweet as it fades out. A little hot at
14.8% alcohol. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
Price: $15
abv: 14.8%
86
Carlos Basso 2010 Dos Fincas Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Uco Valley). Baked
berry, molasses and roasted, jumbled berry fruit aromas
lead to a grabby, full-bodied palate with dark, baked
berry and leathery flavors. Toasty and sizable on the finish, with a solid feel and general cleanliness. Southern
Wine Group. —M.S.
Price: $13
abv: 14%
86
Michel Torino 2009 Don David Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Calchaqui Valley).
On first blush it comes across entirely green and herbal.
Even with airing it continues to show salad dressing, tomato and herbal aromas in addition to red fruit notes.
Full and solid on the palate, with bell pepper, tobacco
and roasted berry flavors. Finishes with more herbal/
green hints and good structure. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
Price: $16
abv: 13.9%
86
Sottano 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Rubber, bacon, berry and plum aromas
are good overall. The palate is creamy as a whole but
has enough acidity to carry cassis and berry flavors past
being resiny and herbal. Basic on the finish, with mild
oak flavor and resin coming into play. Well-Oiled Wine
Company. —M.S.
Price: $17
abv: 14.5%
86
Viña Alicia 2008 Paso de Piedra Cabernet Sauvignon (Luján de Cuyo). Rubbery
and leathery smelling at first, with berry and cassis aromas resting below the surface. Feels tannic and closed
on the palate, with syrupy, reduced plum, berry and currant flavors. Not too much shows up on the finish other than thickness and a subtle plum nuance. Southern
Starz, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
84
Michel Torino 2009 Don David Finca La
Urquiza #8 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cafayate). More briary and green than Torino’s regular Don
David Cab, with aromas of vinegar, lettuce, tomato and
green pepper. Tannic, tight and juicy in the mouth, with
green-leaning red currant and plum flavors. Tannic and
grating on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
—M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $20
90
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Zorzal 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Earthy, roasted and condensed on the
nose, with a compact, structured palate housing tight
plum and cherry flavors. Shows freshness, lift and a
good step, with a juicy finish and racy acids. Wine Brindis Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
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Wandering Grape 2010 Malbec-Merlot
(Mendoza). Baked plum and berry aromas
come in front of a lively palate with earthy berry and
baked flavors. It’s medicinal and spicy later on, with
some grab and a simple, standard structure. 65% Malbec and 35% Merlot. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
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Finca El Origen 2010 Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Uco Valley). Opens with rubbery, gaseous aromas that morph into latex and finally
briary berry. The palate has a highly regular, tannic feel
along with minty, generic flavors of berry and herbs. Basil and spice notes show up on the mildly green finish.
Contains 15% Malbec and Syrah. Carolina Wine Brands
USA. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
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Gouguenheim Winery 2009 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Mendoza). Berry aromas are
clean and forward, with just a spot of resin and vanilla.
The palate is snappy and crisp, with cherry and plum
acidity framing dry, tangy, lightly herbal flavors of raspberry and red plum. Light and zesty on the semisharp
finish. Vias Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Finca El Origen 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Tomato leaf, rhubarb and
herbal aromas come in front of a tight, tannic and prickly palate with green, spicy berry flavors. Turns hot and
smacky on the finish, with carob and herbal flavors. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $8
80
Argana 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). A weird wine with a distinct and overriding clove character that’s manifested on the nose,
palate and finish. One-dimensional and strange, with
way too much clove impact. Atlanta Improvement Co.
—M.S.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $12
OTHER RED BLENDS
Ricominciare 2009 Cabernet Franc-Cabernet Sauvignon (Uco Valley). One of the
harder, more tannic wines from Argentina you’ll come
across. The nose has leafy, menthol aromas that are
raisiny and rooty. The palate is like nails it’s so tannic,
while the flavors of cassis, prune and bitter chocolate
are deep and good. Super tannic stuff. The Artisan Collection. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
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Bodega NQN 2006 Coleccion NQN Patagonia Universe (Patagonia). Dense and
beefy at first, then menthol, licorice, blackberry and
earth aromas come out on the nose. The palate is deep
and well structured, with toasty, dark flavors of chocolate mint along with leathery berry. Finishes with coffee
and peppery flavors. Serious and satisfying; 60% Malbec and 40% Cab Sauvignon. Vias Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
Casarena 2009 Estate Bottled Cabernet
Sauvignon (Agrelo). Rubbery, dense aromas
are murky and on the green side as leafy, tomato notes
rise up. Feels a bit thick and heavy, with herbal, sticky,
sweet berry flavors mixed with a syrupy grab. Carries its
weight in plodding fashion; a sweet and unctuous Cab.
Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S.
Price: $17
abv: 14.9%
Finca Perdriel 2006 Vineyard Selection
Mendoza). Intense stuff, with foresty, forceful aromas of blackberry, black cherry, char, mineral and
toast. The palate is quite thick and dense, with baked
and spicy blackberry flavors offset by herbal notes. Concentrated and minty, with a bullish finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
Price: $70
abv: 14.8%
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Don Cristobal 1492 2010 Finca La Niña
Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Lean,
fiery berry aromas come with forced oak and dried
cheese scents. The palate is creamy and pasty feeling,
with chunky berry fruit and thick, creamy oak flavors
and tannins. A bit herbal as well. Eagle Eye Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
Monteviejo 2008 Lindaflor Petite Fleur
(Mendoza). Ripe blackberry aromas are accented by herbal notes, tomato, cedar and tobacco.
The palate is full and walled in by big tannins, while the
flavor profile is ripe, masculine and centered on black
fruit, mocha and coffee. Toasty and oaky late, with tobacco on the finish. A serious wine with obvious qualities. Bob Bofman Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
Benegas 2008 Don Tiburcio (Mendoza).
Earthy and deep from head to tail. The nose
offers fresh compost, loamy berry, cola and overriding
richness. Feels smooth and layered across the palate,
with dark berry, pepper and bitter chocolate flavors.
Blackened on the finish and toasty; 50% Malbec with
four additional Bordeaux varieties. Vias Imports. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $14
Bodega Renacer 2009 Enamore (Mendoza). Black plum, blackberry, lemon zest and
licorice are the key aromas on this Amarone-patterned
blend from Argentina. The palate is concentrated, rich
and lush, with grabby, soft tannins and sweet flavors of
blackberry, brown sugar and caramel. Toasty and mild
on the finish, with jammy thickness. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
Carlos Basso 2006 Signature Blend (Uco
Valley). Stout and a little baked up front, with
heavy berry and slightly stewy aromas. Chewy and
meaty on the palate, with plum, berry, leather and herbal flavors that marry well and show complexity. Fine
structure and tightness suggest this Malbec-led blend
could age for a while longer; drink now through 2014.
Southern Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $25
90
Gouguenheim Winery 2006 Red Melosa
Flores del Valle (Mendoza). Floral and attractive on the bouquet, with citrus peel, light raspberry, cassis and lift. The palate runs tannic and fresh, with
crisp black cherry and kirsch flavors that flow seamlessly
into layered tobacco and mild herbal notes. A sophisticated red made from Malbec, Cabernet and Bonarda.
Vias Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
90
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Proemio 2006 Barrel Selection Red Wine
(Mendoza). For full review see page 8.
Lagarde 2009 Guarda (Mendoza). Sweet
and leafy smelling, with a hint of green bean to
go with root beer and berry aromas. The palate is tannic and tight, with an untamed overall mouthfeel. Tastes
lively and zesty, with blackberry, plum and chocolate flavors. Toasty and firm on the finish. Malbec, CS, Merlot
and Syrah in descending order. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $28
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Proemio 2006 Grand Reserve Winemaker’s Selection (Mendoza). Somewhat rustic
on the nose, with baked, herbal lead aromas bringing
side scents of tree bark and earthy berry. Tightly wound
and tannic in the mouth, with cola, spice and chocolaty
flavors. Dry, focused and composed as it makes its point.
Atlanta Improvement Co. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $26
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Tikal 2009 Patriota Malbec-Bonarda
(Mendoza). Black fruit, licorice, cola and
chocolate aromas cover the bases. The palate is full,
sweet and saturated, with a slight syrupy feel and bold
blackberry, blueberry and mocha flavors. Sweet on the
WineMag.com | 25
finish, with vanilla, coffee and a small wash of herbal
green; 60% Bonarda/40% Malbec. Vine Connections.
—M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $20
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Finca Perdriel 2008 Centenario (Mendoza). Warm and oaky on the nose, with sawdust,
cassis, vanilla and lemon peel aromas. The palate is saturated and kind of dull in feel, with ripe blueberry, blackberry and spice flavors that are chunky and don’t evolve
on the back palate and finish. A rich Malbec-CabernetMerlot blend that registers low on pulse. Drink now.
T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $35
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Sottano 2009 Reserva Blend (Mendoza).
Briary aromas start with some funk and animal
then settle down and clean up. The palate has a nice,
layered feel and earthy flavors of berry, cassis and herbs.
Finishes long, chocolaty and spicy, with freshness. 60%
Malbec with 30% Cabernet and 10% Syrah. Well-Oiled
Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Valle Azul 2006 Cuvée Don Vito (Patagonia). A sappy, jammy nose offers a nice entry
to this simple blend of Cabernet and Merlot. The palate feel is regular and healthy, while the flavors run toward generic red fruits with a touch of green herbs and
caramel. Snappy and crisp on the finish. Vias Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
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Montepio 2010 SyBo Syrah-Bonarda
(Mendoza). Full berry aromas with spice on
the side form a good opening. It’s a full, tight wine on
the palate with oaky, meaty, almost foresty flavors of
blackberry, spice and mint. Racy, drying, tasty and good
given that one finds few Syrah-Bonarda blends to pick
from. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
85
Notro 2010 Sangiovese-Bonarda (Mendoza). Basic sweet berry aromas come across
like fruit punch. The palate has a standard, solid mouthfeel and generic berry flavors. A little bit medicinal on
the finish, and overall it’s your regular everyday red
wine with not much varietal character. 50% each Sangiovese and Bonarda. Hand Picked Selections. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
83
Don Cristobal 1492 2010 1492 Red Wine
Mendoza). Sharp, prickly aromas suggest tart
red plum and wild herbs. The palate is a bit heavy and
sticky, with sweet, gummy, medicinal berry flavors. Finishes bitter and peppery, with a medicinal aftertaste.
Eagle Eye Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $7
83
Notro 2010 Tinto Fundación (Mendoza).
Red plum, tomato and brambly herbal aromas
set up a snappy, astringent palate with strained raspberry, spice and herbal flavors. Very dry and acidic as
it transitions to the finish. An herbal, sharp-edged red.
Hand Picked Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
SOUTH AFRICAN WHITES
CHENIN BLANC
92
Ken Forrester 2009 The FMC Forrester
Meinert Chenin Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). Ripe notes of red apple, honeydew, orange
blossom and a touch of nuttiness are all augmented
by a backdrop of gorgeous assorted wild flowers, adding complexity and liveliness to the bouquet and lush,
round palate. Dried apricot drizzled with honey and
gingery spice unfold on the close, but balanced acidity
keeps the long finish mouthwatering and bright. Drink
now–2014. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
92
Rijk’s 2007 Private Cellar Reserve Chenin Blanc (Tulbagh). Though the fruit is starting to fade on this mature Chenin, it’s drinking quite
beautifully now with rich notes of fresh butter, baked
apple, clove-spiced orange and yellow florals on the
nose. Peach pit, honeydew and orange oil flesh out the
mouth, but the acid cuts through the weight and provides a clean cut to the spice-infused finish. Drink now.
The Artisan Collection. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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DeMorgenzon 2009 Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). Delicious and decadent while simultaneoulsy restrained and balanced, this is a gorgeous Chenin that offers a little bit of everything: ripe
fruit, floral character and sweet spice. Fresh nectarine,
rich fig and softly honeyed melon fill the nose and medium-weight mouth. There’s a clean, acidic lift to the
finish that transitions into notes of orange blossom and
ginger root. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
90
Ken Forrester 2010 Reserve Chenin
Blanc (Stellenbosch). A strong toasty streak
lines the essence of this beautiful Chenin Blanc, adding
character to the apple and pear fruit core. The mouthfeel is full and rich without being overdone thanks to
the balanced acidity, while nuances of sweet spice, pie
crust and wood-grilled Red Delicious all linger well into
the long finish. Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
90
Rijk’s 2008 Private Cellar Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc (Coastal Region).
Though sweeter aromas of melon, dried peach and apricot abound in the bouquet, the prominent acidity lifts
the mouth and provides vibrancy to the rich fruit flavors
on the palate. Woody spice and a touch of tannic astringency adds a nice texture to the finish. Drink now or
through 2012. The Artisan Collection. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
90
Vinum Africa 2009 Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). A balanced and quite pleasing Chenin
Blanc that offers both bright, fleshy fruit flavors and a
delicately spicy, oak-driven backdrop. Ripe apple and
pear notes mingle seamlessly with delicate almond and
hazelnut toast accents, while hints of sweet baking spice
remain through the lengthy finish. World Premiere
Wines LLC. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Post House 2009 Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). There’s a gorgeous toasty character
to the red apple skin and almond aromas on the nose,
while aggressive citrus and ripe apple flesh flavors take
hold of the medium-weight mouth. The moderate acidity cuts through the generous palate, while a serious
spicy aftertaste remains through the finish. Terry Seitz.
—L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
89
Rijk’s 2009 Touch of Oak Chenin Blanc
(Tulbagh). The touch of oak that’s promised
on the label is delivered with subtle hints of almond
and dusty spice. Otherwise, the wine is fresh and lively
with assertive and zippy notes of green plum and underripe tropical fruit, all of which carry through to the
mouthwatering finish. Drink now. The Artisan Collection. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
88
Ken Forrester 2010 Petit Chenin Blanc
(Western Cape). Bright and balanced with
earthy notes of straw and almond skin spicing up the
green melon, anjou pear and rich kiwi fruit flavors. The
mouth is full and satifying while the finish is somewhat
brisk with great lift. Drink now. Cape Classics. Best
Buy. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Lammershoek 2008 Chenin Blanc
(Swartland). Fermented in French oak using
only wild yeasts, this is a lavish and spicy Chenin for
a reasonable price. Wood-driven notes of honeyed almonds, toasted challah and Honeycomb cereal dominate the overall character, though flavors of pineapple
and juicy peach appear in the mouth. Worthwhile Wine
Company. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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Cederberg 2010 Chenin Blanc (Cederberg). Soft citrus, green apple and plum lead
the way on the nose of this easy-drinking white. More
of the same unfolds in the brisk mouth, with tart green
berries and lime pith staying through the close. Refreshing and zippy; drink now. Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
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Fleur Du Cap 2010 Bergkelder Selection
Chenin Blanc (Western Cape). Crisp citrus
and underripe stone fruit flavors are at the core, with a
touch of earthy grass adding another layer to this wine’s
character. Clean and balanced with a soft mouthfeel despite the tart green plum and watermelon rind flavors.
Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
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Mulderbosch 2010 Chenin Blanc (Western Cape). Quiet and shy, this wine takes
a little bit to fully open up. After it finally does, you’ll
be rewarded with dainty aromas of fresh apple flesh
and barely ripe melon followed by flavors of orange oil
and light toast that fill the round palate. Cape Classics.
—L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
87
Nabygelegen 2009 Chenin Blanc (Wellington). A lush and weighty Chenin Blanc
with ripe fruit flavors of citrus oil, apple flesh, and green
plum laced with notes of soft vanilla bean and clove.
The richness of the palate lends itself to pair nicely with
hearty creamy chicken or fish dishes. The Artisan Collection. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
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Raats Family 2010 Original Unwooded
Chenin Blanc (Coastal Region). Though
it’s brisk and lightweight, the fresh green apple and
white peach flavors are attractive and clean, marrying
seamlessly with the mouthwatering acidity and orange
blossom finish. Perfect for enjoying now. Cape Classics.
—L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
86
MAN Vintners 2010 Chenin Blanc (Coastal Region). There’s a subtle honeyed edge to
this otherwise light and easygoing wine, adding heft to
the ripe melon and stone fruit notes. The lush fruit flavors pair with the mouthwatering acidity on the finish,
balancing everything out in the end. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
85
eycomb and sweet spice that linger beautifully through
the finish. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
88
Eikendal 2010 Chardonnay (Western
Cape). A flinty and mineral-driven Chard that
also expresses a soft backnote of fresh savory herbs,
white florals and clover on the nose. There’s plenty of
rich fruit to be found on the round palate, as the assertive toasted apple and honeydew flavors flood the
mouth and remain through the long finish. Protea Wine
Importers & Distributors. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
87
Winery of Good Hope 2010 Unoaked
Chardonnay (Western Cape). Fresh and inviting with assertive notes of pineapple and sweet citrus
backed by fleshy pear and melon accents on the nose
and mouth. The palate offers zippy acidity with a clean
lift to the finish. Drink now. World Premiere Wines
LLC. —L.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
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Fleur Du Cap 2010 Bergkelder Selection Chardonnay (Western Cape). Soft
toast and hazelnut aromas add character to the otherwise straightforward honeydew, pear and orange oil flavors of this value Chard. Medium weight with a round
body but lifting acidity to keep things fresh and vibrant.
Drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Best
Buy. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
Fairvalley 2010 Chenin Blanc (Western Cape). Straightforward and easy with
approachable aromas of ripe pear and fresh melon.
Though light on intensity, it’s balanced and well-made
with an overall crowd-pleasing style. Drink now. World
Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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Simonsig 2010 Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). A straightforward but refreshing white
with notes of green plum and underripe peach pit
against a backbone of tropical fruit-driven acidity. Great
zip and liveliness to the finish. Drink now. Quintessential Wines. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
85
Tormentoso 2010 Old Vine Chenin Blanc
(Paarl). There’s a nice flinty character expressed throughout this wine, pairing harmoniously
with the ripe red apple and orange notes. Though the
mouth is rich and full, the finish exhibits great lift and
clarity. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
Price: $13
abv: 13.5%
CHARDONNAY
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DeMorgenzon 2010 DMZ Chardonnay
(Western Cape). A touch of oaky character
adds depth and richness to this attractive and balanced
Chard. Red apple, ripe peach and orange oil flavors are
at the heart of the palate, accented by glimmers of hon-
Glenelly 2010 The Glass Collection Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). Round but lifted
with racy pineapple-infused acidity in the mouth, this
Chard offers ripe melon and red apple flavors to balance the serious cut. A hint of peach pit nuttiness stays
through the finish. Drink now. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
Jardin 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). Dainty and nuanced, this crisp
citrus-driven Chard offers background notes of almond skin and pear to flesh out the mouth. Lively and
somewhat prickly acidity dances on the tongue through
the mouthwatering close. Drink now. World Premiere
Wines LLC. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
86
MAN Vintners 2010 Chardonnay (Coastal
Region). The notes of green apple and lemony citrus are fresh and clean with great clarity and precision. Balanced and easy to drink with a buttoned-up
finish. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
86
Riebeek Cellars 2010 Collection Chardonnay (Swartland). Fresh, clean and easy
with ripe aromas of red apple flesh and hard nectarine
on the nose and a solid lime-driven citrus core that livens up the palate and the finish. Drink now. Kysela Père
et Fils. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
85
Indaba 2010 Chardonnay (Western
Cape). Sweet orange and ripe melon notes fill
the nose and plump mouth, while additional accents of
apple skin and soft toast carry through to the clean finish. Drink now. Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
84
Two Oceans 2010 Chardonnay (Western Cape). Clean and light with easy-pleasing notes of red apple flesh and tropical fruit acidity. A
touch of buttered toasted challah bread adds depth to
the close. Drink now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
SAUVIGNON BLANC
88
88
Porcupine Ridge 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Western Cape). For full review see page 11.
Rustenberg 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Western Cape). The brisk finish lifts the
round mouthfeel of this ripe Sauv Blanc, as flavors
of ripe gooseberry and green fig are perfectly poised
against a backdrop of sweet grass and a touch of chamomile. Refreshing and satisfying all at once; drink now
and through 2012. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
87
Ken Forrester 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Stellenbosch). Ripe tropical notes of kiwi
and firm guava are lifted with accents of dried white
florals and lemon rind citrus. The racy mouth finishes
with a grapefruit-infused finish that shines bright. Drink
now. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
87
Nabygelegen 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Wellington). Rich and complex, this Sauv
Blanc shows more depth and weight on the nose and
mouth than most would anticipate, but the finish cleans
it all up with an endless mouthwatering sensation. Fresh
green grass, orange, green fig and apple flesh out the
palate. The Artisan Collection. —L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
87
Plaisir De Merle 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Western Cape). Vegetal notes of asparagus
mingle with accents of chalk and sweet grass on the
nose, while ruby grapefruit and underripe mango flavors burst in the mouth. Vibrant and clean; drink now.
Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —L.B.
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
86
Eikendal 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Western Cape). Green grass and a hint of baby
powder are paired with notes of green gooseberry and
lime on the nose, while riper but similarly tart flavors
of white cranberry and citrus take hold of the mouthwatering palate. Drink now. Protea Wine Importers &
Distributors. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
86
Riebeek Cellars 2010 Collection Sauvignon Blanc (Swartland). Light and easy
with a great lift to the green plum, hard guava and ba-
WineMag.com | 27
nana notes. Lively but not overly zippy or mouth-puckering on the finish. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. Best
Buy. —L.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
85
Durbanville Hills 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Durbanville). This Sauv Blanc could use a bit
more lift to the lightweight but round mouth, but overall it’s clean and easy-drinking with notes of lime pith,
gooseberry and dried grass notes. Drink now. Aveniù
Brands, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
85
Sauvignon Blanc (Western Cape). Fresh
grass, green plum and lime rind notes characterize this
easygoing white. There’s a lifting prickly sensation to the
palate followed by a short but cleansing finish. Maisons
Marques & Domaines USA. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
DESSERT WINES
94
Klein Constantia 2005 Vin de Constance
Muscat (Constantia). A lovely dessert wine,
perhaps the pinnacle in South Africa. Concentrated and
quite intense with full-bodied flavors of orange rind,
clementine and dried apricot fruit spiced with notes
of crushed yellow florals, roasted nut skin, toasted egg
bread and pure honeycomb. Balanced acidity prevents
the mouth from being too thick or viscous, while the
endless finish carries decadent notes of candied ginger.
Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50/500 ml
93
Klein Constantia 2006 Vin de Constance
Muscat (Constantia). Butterscotch, honeyed
almonds and candied ginger-orange peel lead the way
on the nose of this late harvest Muscat. Rich, overripe
mango and honeydew add levity to the palate, lifting the
heady spice and viscous, syrupy flavors. The long finish
carries a tinge of pithiness, adding some tongue-smacking texture to the close. Has aging potential, though it’s
certainly also enjoyable now. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $50/500 ml
93
Mullineux 2010 Straw Wine Chenin Blanc
(Swartland). Rich and honeyed, this viscous
and tongue-coating straw wine offers intense flavors of
baked apple, fresh honey, Medjool date and candied
orange that remain endlessly on the palate and finish.
Though the wine is decadently powerful, there’s enough
acidity to support the weight and keep things from being simply too sweet. Drink now through 2014. Kysela
Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.
abv: 8%
Price: $37/375 ml
92
Paul Cluver 2010 Noble Late Harvest
Riesling (Elgin). An attractive dessert wine at
an incredibly attractive price, this is a beautifully balanced late-harvest Riesling with a refreshingly mouthwatering finish. The mouth is full and lush but the acidity is crisp and cleansing, lifting the ripe and concentrated notes of baked apple, dried mango, peach preserves
and fresh honey. Drink now–2014. World Premiere
Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $22/375 ml
mouth, but the spicy core dominates yet again on the
close. Terry Seitz. —L.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $28
91
88
Ken Forrester 2006 T Noble Late Harvest
Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). The first
nosing strongly suggests a square of pure, fresh honeycomb, but it’s closely followed by attractive notes of
baking spice, candied orange peel, apple pie and dried
apricot. Spicy notes of clove and ginger show real staying power on the finish, while appropriately assertive
acidity keeps things fresh in the mouth. Cape Classics.
—L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $55
88
Post House 2008 Treskilling Yellow Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). Though it might be
a bit direct and simple, this dessert wine is delicious and
satisfying with decadent flavors of juicy peach, sweet
spice and ginger bread drizzled with honey. The alcohol
shows a bit after swallow, but the spicy notes take hold
on the close. Terry Seitz. —L.B.
abv: NA
Price: $23
SOUTH AFRICAN REDS
PINOTAGE
91
Rijk’s 2007 Reserve Pinotage (Tulbagh).
With only 20 cases imported, this will be a
tough find but it’s certainly well worth the hunt. This
high-end Pinotage is lush and creamy, the oak-driven
notes of dark chocolate and smoky cigar spice fusing
seamlessly with the damson plum and dark berry preserve fruit center. Though dense and powerful, the long
finish is surprisingly vibrant and spicy all at once. The
Artisan Collection. —L.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $75
90
Kanonkop 2009 Pinotage (SimonsbergStellenbosch). Deep, dark and concentrated
with serious notes of blackberry, cassis and plum flesh
all laced with a menthol edge. Accents of fruit cake and
sweet spice dance in the finish. Balanced and full in the
mouth, the fine but present tannins and moderate acidity offer the promise of longevity; drink now–2015. Cape
Classics. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
90
Rijk’s 2006 Private Cellar Pinotage (Tulbagh). With a satiny texture and softened tannins, this is a well-balanced Pinotage that’s ready for
enjoyment now. Brambly dark berry, Asian spice and
sweet mesquite smoke all abound on the nose and
mouth, while the long finish carries the charred woody
edge even further. Drink now. The Artisan Collection.
—L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
89
Hartenberg 2007 Pinotage (Stellenbosch). Tobacco leaf, cured sweet dried sausage and green peppercorns overpower the black cherry and currant fruit tones, making this an earth- and
spice-driven style of Pinotage. The fruit, more skin than
flesh, shows a touch more in the lush, firmly structured
Boland 2010 Cappuccino Pinotage
(Paarl). The name doesn’t mislead or disappoint with intense mocha aromas and flavors paired
with raspberry sauce and sweet spice flavors. This is
a crowd-pleasing style of Pinotage with a texture like
crushed satin, medium tannins and a lush but not overly
opulent mouthfeel. Terry Seitz. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
88
Remhoogte 2009 Pinotage (SimonsbergStellenbosch). Fresh spearmint sprig permeates the bouquet and palate, lifting up the intense black
cherry and raspberry fruit flavors. Medium weight, with
a nice juicy liveliness that transitions nicely into the long
finish infused with sweet spice. Terry Seitz. —L.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $19
88
Winery of Good Hope 2010 Bush Vine Pinotage (Stellenbosch). An opaque garnet
color in the glass, this is a deep and brooding Pinotage
that shows great intensity and concentration. Heady
black fruit, espresso grinds, woody spice and black tea
all abound on the nose and mouth, and a glimmer of
peppery game lingers on the end. Big and firm with
strong tannins and a tight finish. World Premiere Wines
LLC. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
87
Hartenberg 2006 Pinotage (Stellenbosch). The bouquet takes a while to fully express itself, as scents of blackberry, cassis, licorice root
and milk chocolate develop with time. Despite its age,
the wine’s still tightly wound mouth offers firm tannins
and flavors of leather, roasted vanilla bean and plum
skins with good staying power. Drink now–2013. Terry
Seitz. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
87
Painted Wolf 2010 The Den Pinotage
(Coastal Region). Coffee grinds and black
licorice root spice up the black berry and cherry aromas in the bouquet. Surprisingly firm and concentrated in the mouth, the skin-driven dark fruit flavors are
forward but tight with serious staying power; allow for
some time to soften and open up a bit before enjoying.
Southern Starz, Inc. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
86
Ken Forrester 2010 Petit Pinotage (Western Cape). Ken Forrester’s Petit Pinotage is an
accessible and easy-drinking wine from the notoriously
love-it-or-hate-it grape that shows bright brambly forrest berry and plum flesh flavors coupled with a touch
of coffee-infused milk chocolate on the finish. Balanced
and juicy, it’s sure to please. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
86
Riebeek Cellars 2010 Collection Pinotage (Swartland). Dark berries and a touch
of woody spice lead the way on the nose of this friendly
Pinotage. As you settle in to the velvety texture, sultry
tannins wrap around your tongue and mingle with the
juicy plum and peppery spice flavors. Ready to drink
now. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
nent acidity followed by a black pepper-dominated finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
85
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Fairvalley 2009 Pinotage (Coastal Region). There’s a sweet ripeness to the strawberry and raspberry fruit flavors in this wine, with a touch
of chocolaty richness developing in the mouth. Easy
drinking with soft tannins and a clean finish; enjoy now.
World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
84
Durbanville Hills 2009 Pinotage (Durbanville). Straightforward raspberry and strawberry fruit aromas hit you first, followed by accents of
bramble and soft peppery spice. Juicy and vibrant in
the mouth with an easy structure and crisp finish. Drink
now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
84
Pinotage (Coastal Region). Here’s a lively
and fruit-driven Pinotage with a hint of fudgy brownie adding depth to the forward black berry and cherry
fruit. The palate is light and easygoing with low tannins
and a short but clean finish. Drink up. Maisons Marques
& Domaines USA. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
SHIRAZ
91
Cederberg 2008 Shiraz (Cederberg).
Deep and intense, the bouquet is like a bowl of
black cherries muddled with a mocha latte and drizzled
with raspberry sauce. Accents of sweet cigar tobacco
and purple florals add herbal complexity to the ripe fruit
core, while moderate acidity and fine tannins texturize
the lush mouthfeel. Drink now–2013. Worthwhile Wine
Company. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $24
91
Rudi Schultz 2008 Syrah (Stellenbosch).
There’s a serious herbal edge to this wine, with
notes of bergamot tea leaves and menthol shining
through the black raspberry and plum core. But it’s all
balanced and delicious, with the rich fruit never failing
to support it all, especially as the peppery spice comes
into play in the mouth and the cocoa-like tannins linger
on the finish. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $30
89
Rust en Vrede 2008 Shiraz (Stellenbosch). Here’s a fruitfocused Shiraz that puts
forward just what one would expect: red cherry and
plum fruit flavors backed by hints of black pepper and
game. The fine tannins and medium body produce an
overall structure that’s approachable now. Terlato Wines
International. —L.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $27
88
Plaisir De Merle 2008 Shiraz (Paarl).
Brambly red berry, dried tobacco leaves and serious gamey notes lead the way on the bouquet, while
a bit more ripe plum and cherry flavors unfold in the
mouth. Balanced but a bit on the rustic side with promi-
Winery of Good Hope 2010 Mountainside
Shiraz (Stellenbosch). Here’s a straightforward but enjoyable Shiraz with notes of dark plum,
cherry and strawberry on the nose and mouth. There’s
a touch of greenness on the palate augmented by firm,
young tannins, but it all works out and fades smoothly
on the finish. World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $14
85
Indaba 2010 Shiraz (Western Cape).
There’s an attractive raspberry leaf aroma to
the bouquet of this wine, supported with scents of juicy
plum and crushed carnation. The mouth is medium
weight with light tannins and a softly peppered finish.
Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
84
Jam Jar 2010 Sweet Shiraz (Western
Cape). Reminiscent of strawberry and cherry
hard candies, this is a Shiraz for those who like confectioned and somewhat artificial fruit flavors. Although
the style may not be for everyone, it’s balanced and easy
pleasing. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
84
Two Oceans 2010 Shiraz (Western Cape).
There’s a good fruit core to this value Shiraz,
with bright notes of cherry and strawberry thoughtout.
The medium-weight mouth offers soft, approachable
tannins and ends with a clean close. Aveniù Brands, Inc.
—L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
CABERNETS & BLENDS
93
Edgebaston 2008 GS Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). Hearty and complex,
this beautifully intense yet balanced Cab is begging for
some time in the cellar. Strong aromas of cassis, forrest berries, licorice, clove and bittersweet chocolate
flood the nose, while flavors of black plum, leather hide,
roasted cocoa nibs and cigar box spice unfold in the lush
mouth and transition through to the long finish. With
everything so proportionately big and powerful, give
this until 2014–2018. Southern Starz, Inc. Cellar Selection. —L.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $60
93
Mvemve Raats 2008 MR de Compostella
(Stellenbosch). “De Compostella,” meaning
field or compilation of stars, reflects the fact that each
component is crafted to stand alone; all varieties are vinified separately, aged and then blended. Vibrant plum,
black cherry and blackberry are spiced with notes of licorice root, leather and tobacco. It’s a dense and powerful Bordeaux-style blend with a firm structure that
promises to develop beautifully with time in the cellar.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
93
Vilafonté 2008 Series C (Paarl). The 2008
Series C shows more grip and bruising structure
than previous vintages of the Cabernet-based blend,
with gripping tannins framing the hugely concentrated
and heady blackberry, boysenberry and deep plum flavors. Tight and firm in the mouth, complex backnotes of
black licorice, cigar tobacco and crushed African violet
petals appear once the structure subsides and remain
through the very long close. Hold until 2014–2016.
Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $75
92
Eikendal 2008 Classique (Stellenbosch).
Composed of 40% Cab Sauv, 30% Merlot and
30% Cab Franc, this is a rich and robust Bordeaux-style
blend with assertive notes of tanned leather and cigar
box among the expected boysenberry and black currant fruit core. Firm tannins grip the mouth and linger
through the long mocha-flavored finish. Drink now–
2015. Protea Wine Importers & Distributors. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
91
Rust en Vrede 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). Intense and concentrated with thick notes of all-fruit preserves, tree bark,
cigar leaf and old campfire throughout the nose and
mouth. The velvety texture is amped up with assertive,
lip-smacking tannins and a gripping finish that lingers
endlessly. Hints of cassis skin and black tea astringency
leave you primed for more. Terlato Wines International.
—L.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $27
91
Thelema 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). There’s a prominent herbal streak
to the nose of this wine, but it’s not jarring thanks to
the support of rich black cherry and black currant fruit
core. The savory herbs, menthol and licorice herbaceousness continues through to the palate, where again
it’s matched by equally intense dark fruit flavors and a
mouthwatering finish. Silky wood-spice accents the long
finish. Drink now–2014. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $41
91
Thelema 2008 The Mint Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). There’s no doubt as to
why they call this wine “The Mint,” as the first whafts
of the bouquet provide an unquestionable mentholated
aroma with a backdrop of black plum and currant fruit.
Glimmers of crushed violet petals and mocha develop
in the silky mouth, with the fine well-integrated tannins
sticking through the lingering close. Enjoyable now but
cellar-worthy for another couple of years. Cape Classics.
—L.B.
Price: $45
abv: 14%
90
Glenelly 2009 The Glass Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). This is a
very nice Cab at an extremely friendly price. Smoke and
deep black fruit are the first impressions from the bouquet, with aromas of whole tobacco leaf and balsamic
reduction appearing upon further nosing. Filling and
velvety in the mouth, a kiss of charred oak and roasted cocoa nibs remain through the close. Cape Classics.
—L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
WineMag.com | 29
90
Raats Family 2008 Cabernet Franc (Stellenbosch). A beautiful wine that shows true
Cab Franc character in it’s core of tobacco leaf and spicy
berry fruit. Bramble and black cherry add depth to the
medium-weight mouth as fine tannins coat your entire
palate but fade gracefully into the slightly smoky and
ashy finish. Expressive yet balanced; drink now–2014.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
89
Edgebaston 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stellenbosch). Baked plum and black berry
aromas mesh with a meaty character on the nose, while
black pepper and crushed carnation petals add depth to
the black fruit-dominant palate. It takes a while for the
wine to fully open up, but once it comes out of its shell
the silky texture and rich fruit character shines magnificently. Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $30
88
Avontuur 2008 Cabernet Franc (Stellenbosch). Glimmers of flint and smoke rim the
black cherry and berry fruit on the nose, coupled with
earthy scents of tobacco and bramble. The mediumweight mouth offers more developed, oak-driven flavors of cocoa nib and roasted espresso bean while the
crushed satin texture fills the mouth with delicate tannins that linger. Terry Seitz. —L.B.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $26
88
Excelsior 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Robertson). With 60,000 cases imported,
this should be an easy find that’s well worth the money.
Black currant leaf, dark plum flesh and baked fruitcake
fill out the nose and mouth, while a touch of milk chocolate enriches the finish. Balanced and drinkable now
with medium weight and approachable tannins. Cape
Classics. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $10
87
Cabernet Sauvignon (Western Cape).
This Cab has all of the classic notes one would expect:
rich dark berry fruit, black plum skin, cigar tobacco
and black currant leaf are all front and center. The tannins are surprisingly firm and tightly structured, but the
nuances of milk chocolate sauce and graham cracker
crumb add decadence to the finish. Maisons Marques
& Domaines USA. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
85
Tormentoso 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paarl). There’s a dusty texture to this wine,
reminiscent of freeze-dried and crushed raspberry,
black berry and plum pieces. Aromas of menthol and
carnation add interest to the nose, while a touch of
chocolate sweetens up the palate. Drink now. Vineyard
Brands. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
84
Riebeek Cellars 2009 Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Swartland). An assertive
menthol streak shines through the dark fruit core, along
with a hint of spice cake. Soft and somewhat flabby on
the midpalate; drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $9
OTHER RED BLENDS
90
Ernie Els 2009 Big Easy (Western Cape).
This blend offers a nice mix of forest floor and
wild berries along with soft accents of mocha and African violets. Lush and firm in the mouth, the dark fruit
dominates the palate but the accents of leather, licorice
and sweet spice linger through the long finish. Drink
now–2013. Terlato Wines International. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
90
Ernie Els 2008 Proprietor’s Blend (Stellenbosch). Menthol and anise add depth
to the otherwise black fruit-dominant bouquet of this
wine. Rich and full, the creamy texture is loaded with
flavors of blackberry, licorice root and cigar box, all lingering long after swallow. Firm tannins, medium acidity and concentrated fruit all promise longevity: drink
now–2014. Terlato Wines International. —L.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
89
Bouchard Finlayson 2008 Hannibal
(Walker Bay). A very interesting blend composed of 50% Sangiovese, 22% Pinot Noir, 13% Nebbiolo, 7% Mourvèdre, 6% Barbera and 2% Shiraz. Nuances of leather and sweet spice mingle seamlessly with
red cherry and fruit cake characteristics; the silky texture and soft tannins carry the earthy notes through the
close. Terry Seitz. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $36
89
Post House 2007 Penny Black (Stellenbosch). The high-tone fruit aromas work here,
lifting the otherwise dark and heady notes of mulled
berries, cherry pie filling, cured meat and sweet smoke.
Balanced and ready to drink now with medium weight
and dusty tannins. The finish shows nice evolution from
fruit to earthy tobacco and finally coffee. Terry Seitz.
—L.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $30
89
Vansha 2009 SGMV (Paarl). The SGMV
(Shiraz-Grenache-Mourvèdre-Viognier) is a
crowd-pleasing style of wine with a very attractive price
tag. Mocha hits you first on the nose, with secondary
scents of forest floor, licorice root, bramble and boysenberry unfolding shortly after. The mouth is creamy and
lush and transitions into a beautiful sweet spice-infused
finish. Cape Ardor LLC. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
88
Edgebaston 2009 The Berry Box (Stellenbosch). The Berry Box is a fitting name
for this wine, with its intense core of bright black berry,
mulberry, raspberry and wild strawberry infused with
notes of licorice root and peppery spice. The mouth is
ripe and full but not overpowering with fine-grain tannins and a medium length finish. Southern Starz, Inc.
—L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
88
Rustenberg 2009 R M Nicholson (Stellenbosch). A heady and intense red blend
composed mostly of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz
with touches of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, this wine offers a seriously firm structure with grip-
ping tannins and a palate loaded with black plum skin,
forest berries, cigar leaf and a hint of rosemary twig.
The finish is long and reminiscent of French press coffee; try after 2012. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
86
Beyerskloof 2008 Synergy Cape Blend
(Stellenbosch). Once you get past the herbal edge, there are nice red berry and fudgy chocolate
brownie aromas and flavors that play together nicely.
A touch of sweet spice appears after swallow to liven
up the juicy fruit core. Drink now. Cape Wine Match.
—L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
86
Graceland 2008 Strawberry Fields Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon (Western Cape).
The alcohol is a bit too noticeable here, but overall this
is a straightforward wine with nice mocha and spicy
oak accents to the wild berry and red plum fruit frame.
Drink now. Indigo Wine Group. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
82
The Ruins 2010 Made With Organic
Grapes Syrah-Cabernet (Robertson). A
low intensity wine with simple fruit flavors of berry and
plum and a slight effervescence in the mouth. Indigo
Wine Group. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
FRANCE
RED BORDEAUX
91
Château Jean-Faure 2008 Saint-Emilion.
Rich and ripe, this is a full-bodied wine that has
great plum and sweet blackberry flavors and good concentration. Firm in texture, the dusty tannins giving further density. For aging over 5–6 years. North Berkeley
Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
91
Château Suau 2009 Côtes de Bordeaux.
A big, dark and perfumed wine, with a good
density of ripe fruits, powerful tannins and layers of
spice, acidity and red jelly. It balances weight with
freshness to great effect. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
90
Château Arnaud 2009 Saint-Estèphe.
With important flavors of new wood, dusty dry
tannins and mint, this is a concentrated and powerful
wine that also has elegance. It is ripe, rich with balancing acidity, and ready for aging. Serge Doré Selections.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
90
Château Cantinot 2009 Les Tours de Cantinot (Premieres Côtes de Blaye). With its
rich tannins, this wine combines toastiness with swathes
of black currant fruits. It has a dusty texture, giving it a
structured, severe edge for aging. Roberts Fine Wines.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
90
Château Lamothe-Cissac 2006 Haut-Médoc. Now just showing some maturity, the wine
has dense tannins and a firm, dry character. It is concentrated, the black fruits laced with fruit skins and acidity.
Keep for 2–3 years. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
90
Château les Cèdres 2009 Côtes de
Bourg. Rounded and smooth, this wine has
fine acidity to go with its black plum and herbal flavors.
The fruit is full in the mouth, richly spiced, while also
textured with dusty tannins. Worth aging, but deliciously juicy now. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
90
Château les Vimières 2008 Le Tronquera
(Margaux). Dense, attractive, sweet, woodladen wine, with ripe black berry fruits and important
fruit tannins. The wine is concentrated, firm, based on
great fruit and structure. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $65
89
Château Cantinot 2009 Premieres Côtes
de Blaye. Intensely rich, this mint- and redfruit-flavored wine is powered by its ripe fruit. The tannins give shape to the ripeness, and there’s a line of acidity, concentrated as well as fresh. Roberts Fine Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
89
Château de Parenchère 2009 Esprit de
Parenchère (Bordeaux Supérieur). Dominated by new wood, this top cuvée from Château de
Parenchère is certainly too young to drink at this stage.
Its black, brooding character is very extracted and
tough, although there are good hints of juiciness and
sweet berry fruits. The Country Vintner. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Château Haut Selve 2008 Graves. For full
review see page 9.
Château Landat 2006 Haut-Médoc. Richly
juicy wine, with black plum and damson fruits
surrounded by layers of firm, dry tannins. It is structured, intense, the fruit laced with satisfying acidity. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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Château Tour de Goua 2009 Cuvée les
Aubarèdes (Haut-Médoc). Ripe wine, finely balanced with good acidity giving the concentrated
black currant fruit a bright character. Tannins show
well, a dry core layered with juicy fruit. Age for 2–4
years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
Clos du Roy 2009 Fronsac. Very dark in
color, this supercharged Merlot offers soft ripe
berry fruits, with plum skin and toast, followed through
with pepper and spice. It is powerful, concentrated, the
acidity offering some contrasting relief. Bourgeois Family Selections. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
88
Château Haut-Bellevue 2008 Moulis-enMédoc. A suave wine, concerned at this stage
with its tannins and not with fruit. It is dry, the black
plum skin texture just giving an opening to black currant
fruits. All this means that this is a wine for aging—give it
five years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
88
Château la Tonnelle 2008 Haut-Médoc.
Well structured wine, with herbal and bell
pepper flavors as well as delicious juicy black currant
fruits. The fruit is enclosed in a firm set of tannins, offering some aging potential. The finish brings out the
bright acidity of the vintage. Saranty Imports. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
88
Château Lamothe-Cissac 2008 HautMédoc. Balanced wine, with well-integrated
red fruits and dry tannins, offering plenty of fruitiness.
Structure is important here, but so are the red currant
and spice flavors. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
88
Château Pey la Tour 2008 Réserve du
Château (Bordeaux Supérieur). A finely
made wine with big tannins equalled by the rich fruits.
The wine has balanced wood character, acidity, great
berry fruits, damsons and a firm, dry core that promises
aging. Dourthe USA. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
Château les Vimières 2008 Haut-Médoc. Owned by renowned wine consultant
Jacques Boissenot (advisor to most of the Bordeaux
first growths), this should be exemplary—and it is. It is
pure black currant fruit, understated yet beautifully balanced. The acidity pierces through the dry fruit tannins.
The wine finishes with just a hint of wood. Serge Doré
Selections. —R.V.
Price: $35
abv: 13%
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Château Suau 2008 Côtes de Bordeaux.
Structured wine, with juicy black currant and
red berry fruits, layered with important tannins. It’s balanced, pierced with great fresh acidity as well as a more
mineral texture. Finely made, it needs another two
years aging. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
Château Tanesse 2009 Cadillac Côtes
de Bordeaux. From a large estate on the Premières Côtes de Bordeaux, this wine is powered by
wood as much as fruit. However, the perfumed black
fruits will develop to give a good balance, the acidity
cutting in to give a fresher finish. Serge Doré Selections.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
Château Bonnet 2008 Bordeaux. Always
a great value, this warm and fruity wine is immediately accessible and drinkable. It has fine red berry fruits, a good core of tannins and just the right fruit
acidity. Drink now. Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch & Sons.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Château de Ferrand 2007 Saint-Emilion.
A balanced wine, not powerful although well
concentrated with its red berry fruits and dusty tannins.
It has beetroot flavor, acidity and a firm, dry finish. Age
for 3–4 years. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Château de Parenchère 2008 Cuvée
Raphaël (Bordeaux Supérieur). Black currant-dominated wine, all fresh juicy fruit along with balanced dry tannins. The wood is there, with subtle hints
of black fruits and acidity. The Country Vintner. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Château le Bonnat 2008 Graves. Well balanced wine, perhaps with the wood revealing
too much, otherwise with fine red berry and currant
fruits and dry fruit tannins. It has structure and great
juicy acidity on the finish. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Château l’Espérance 2008 Cuvée Carole (Premieres Côtes de Blaye). Soft wine,
dominated by wood spice and tannins. It has weight,
which suggests the juicy fruit will show through after
a year. Age for 3–4 years. Bourgeois Family Selections.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
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Château Suau 2009 Cadillac. Warm, softfruited wine, with fine ripe red berry fruits as
well as a gentle tannic structure. There is an earthy
Merlot edge to the blend, along with the more dry texture of Cabernet. For drinking next year. Kysela Père
et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $27
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Château Bel Enclos 2009 Cuvée Evidence (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Initially dominated by wood, then the ripe jammy fruit comes
through to give a soft, rich wine, with bitter chocolate as
well as red fruit flavors. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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Château Cantinot 2009 Haut Boutet de
Château Cantinot (Premieres Côtes de
Blaye). Fruity and earthy, this is a spice- and black currant-filled wine. With Malbec in the blend, it has distinct tannins that give shape to the juicy fruit. Roberts
Fine Wines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
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Château de Launay 2005 Les Vignes de
Julia (Bordeaux Supérieur). With a few
years in bottle, this is maturing well. It has ripeness, the
tannins beginning to soften into rich spice and damson
jelly flavors. The acidity is still very present as is the dry
core. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Château de Parenchère 2009 Bordeaux
Supérieur. Packed with dry tannins and a
dense structure, here is a wine that has weight and potential richness. There is some good weight of black-
WineMag.com | 31
berry fruits. If drinking now, it needs to open out in a
decanter or glass. The Country Vintner. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
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Château des Combes 2009 Bordeaux.
Benefiting from the ripe 2009 fruit, this shows
the attractive character of many value Bordeaux wines
in this year. It has red plum fruits, touched with raisins
along with toast, acidity and a balance of tannins. Planet
Wine. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
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Château des Demoiselles 2009 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Dense tannins and
a solid, chunky character suggest a wine with richness.
The black fruits are concentrated, with juiciness coming through over time. It has the ripe power of the 2009
vintage. Laville Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Château Lagrave Paran 2008 Cuvée
Géraldine (Bordeaux Supérieur). An austere, tannic wine that will need a few years to develop.
It has solid tannins that are layered over the fresh berry
and currant fruits. A smoky hint gives the wine extra
character. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Château Landat 2008 Haut-Médoc. Structured and fruity, this has black currant flavors,
dry tannins and a definite wood-aged feel. It is elegant,
not powerful, opening slowly to reveal its fine fruit and
acidity. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
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Château Moulin de Canhaut 2008 Médoc. On the austere side, this shows more tannin than fruit, based around a dry core that has spread
through the wine. There is some black plum skin and
black currant fruit, but it is hard to find. Serge Doré
Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Château Roc Meynard 2009 Bordeaux
Supérieur. Ripe, fruity wine, it has sweet tannins, blackberry fruit, laced with acidity. The wine is
all fruit, with only the lightest hint of wood. Bourgeois
Family Selections. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Château Cadillac 2009 Cuvée J.J. Lesgourges (Bordeaux Supérieur). As its
14.5% indicates, this is a particularly rich wine. Maybe
too rich, because it is all superripe black fruit without
the balance of structure or acidity. Enjoy it as a blockbuster, probably not with food. Baron Francois Ltd.
—R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
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Château de Parenchère 2009 Cuvée
Raphaël (Bordeaux Supérieur). Should
Bordeaux be 14%? Maybe, but not this wine. It is too
big, dry, tannin-dominated and heavy. There is way too
much extraction, and it shows in the bitter character.
The Country Vintner. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2011
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Château Roquevieille 2008 Côtes de
Castillon. Fine-grained tannins course
through this wine. It has good juicy currant fruits along
with acidity. It feels lightweight, without great concentration, but is certainly immediately attractive. Saranty
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Maison Duhard 2009 Baron des Chartrons Bordeaux. The Chartrons is the neighborhood of Bordeaux where the wine merchants traditionally worked. This branded Bordeaux is softly ripe,
with an attractive density along with a dry core of tannins. Ready to drink now. Cannon Wines Limited.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
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Château de Beauregard-Ducourt 2009
Bordeaux. Very soft wine, with gentle berry
fruit flavors, cinnamon and a light, ripe character. Black
currant fruits emerge from the light texture with an attractive tannic layer. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
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Château Moulin de Canhaut 2007 Médoc. Dry and light, an unfocused wine. It has
tannins, only light fruit, very dry and ultimately tough.
Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
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Château de Parenchère 2008 Esprit de
Parenchère (Bordeaux Supérieur). Heavily wooded wine, so dry, with the fruit lost in all the burnt
toast character. It’s all too much for the fresh style of
2008. The Country Vintner. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Château Bonnet 2010 Bordeaux Rosé.
Bright, crisp wine with flavors of caramel, strawberries and some sweetness. The wine finishes with attractive acidity. Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Clairet. Darker in color than normal rosé, Bordeaux Clairet also has more richness. This wine is concentrated with vanilla and sweet strawberry flavors, although with a lack of freshness. Treat this is as a red
wine. The Country Vintner. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
WHITE BORDEAUX
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Château de Beauregard-Ducourt 2010
Entre-Deux-Mers. Ripe and herbaceous,
there is a great zing to this wine. It has crisp grapefruit
and lemon flavors, pushing through the green apple skin
texture. A real seafood wine. Baystate Wine & Spirits.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
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Blanc. Attractive wine, boasting a good balance between herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc and a more
perfumed character from Muscadelle. It has a creamy
character along with intense acidity, leaving a fresh taste
in the mouth. The Country Vintner. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
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BORDEAUX ROSÉ
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Château de Virecourt 2009 Bordeaux.
Dry, dark-hued tannins cut through the wine,
giving it a bitter feel. It is tough, firm, missing the balancing fruit. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
Château Moulin de Canhaut 2006 Médoc. Already showing signs of aging, this is
hard, dry and tough. Not much pleasure there. Serge
Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
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Château Suau 2010 Bordeaux Rosé. For
a Bordeaux rosé, this is fresh and delicious in a
light, fruity style, and immediately appealing. Not for
aging, of course, but with a good touch of acidity as well
as vanilla. Screwcap. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
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Château Beauregard-Ducourt 2010 Bordeaux Rosé. Light, fresh, raspberry-flavored
wine, with a hint of spice and great lines of acidity. The
wine is fruity, delicious. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
Château Haut Selve 2010 Graves. For full
review see page 8.
Château le Bonnat 2010 Graves. Ripe,
fruity wine, pushing at the tropical fruit end of
the spectrum. The flavors are creamy, touched by wood,
and deliciously ripe. Age for a year. Baron Francois Ltd.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
Dourthe 2010 La Grande Cuvée (Bordeaux Blanc). Packed with great Sauvignon
Blanc herbal flavors, this is a delicious wine, at the cool
end of the spectrum of white wine. Grapefruit and lemon juice are enlivened by a grassy texture and crisp,
fresh acidity. Dourthe USA. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
Château Bonnet 2010 Bordeaux Blanc.
Soft, ripe, cleanly made wine. It has some of
the herbaceous character of many white Bordeaux, but
toned down and given warmth by a sweetly perfumed
aftertaste. Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Château Suau 2010 Bordeaux Blanc. Soft,
open wine, with some attractive perfumed character as well as light acidity. It is somewhat unfocused,
missing structure. Screwcap. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
SWEET BORDEAUX
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Château Suau 2009 Cadillac. Billed as a
dessert wine, this is in fact more of an apéritif
wine, with its botrytis sweetness muted by a soft, open
character. It has ripe apricot flavors, hints of honey and
a tang of orange peel. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $31/500 ml
ITALIAN WHITES
ALTO ADIGE
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Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2010 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). It’s hard to imagine Pinot
Grigio better than this. Fresh, creamy and packed tight
with cool-climate aromas of white flower, citrus and
fresh peach, the wine pairs beautifully with spicy Thai
or Vietnamese dishes. Enotec Imports, Inc. Best Buy.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Josef Weger 2010 Pinot Bianco (Alto
Adige). The bi-lingual Italian-German label
reads Pinot Bianco and Weissburgunder. Once in your
glass, this fresh and luminous white wine offers lovely
layers of stone fruit, grapefruit and pear that wash clean
over the palate. Magellan Wine Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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St. Pauls 2008 St. Justina Exclusiv
Gewürztraminer (Alto Adige). St. Justina
is a gorgeously fragrant and lively wine that delivers a
steady stream of aromas from lemon blossom to honeysuckle and jasmine. It’s hard to beat the beauty of this
bouquet. Plan to pair this wine with fragrant Thai or
Vietnamese dishes. Tesori Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $29
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Tiefenbrunner 2010 Pinot Bianco (Alto
Adige). With fish, salad or spicy vegetarian
fare, you absolutely can’t go wrong with a wine like this.
An expression of Pinot Bianco (or Weissburgunder in
German), the grape offers more heft and weight in the
mouth and subtle, but steady aromas of pear and white
peach. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Josef Brigl 2010 Sielo Blu Pinot Grigio
(Alto Adige). This fresh and food-friendly Pinot Grigio opens with delicate floral notes of white rose
and almond blossom followed by exotic fruit and citrus.
The balanced acidity would pair with chicken salad and
mayonnaise. Admiral Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
easy-drinking Pinot Grigio and this vintage of the popular white lives up to its past reputation. Aromas of citrus, pear and white flower are followed by a clean, crisp
mouthfeel. Terlato Wines International. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
85
Peter Zemmer 2010 Pinot Bianco (Alto
Adige). This light and simple expression of Pinot Bianco (a grape capable of producing very sophisticated wines) opens with sweet candy aromas, soda
or lemon drop. It offers a clean, crisp aftertaste and a
streamlined style. Vin Divino. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
COLLI ORIENTALI DEL
FRIULI
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Guerra Albano 2010 Pinot Grigio (Colli
Orientali del Friuli). Zesty aromas of stone
fruit and fresh citrus characterize the pretty nose of this
easy-drinking Pinot Grigio. There’s a touch of creaminess in the mouth that would pair with chicken curry or
spicy Thai rolls. Solstars Inc. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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La Viarte 2010 Ribolla Gialla (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Aged in stainless steel for
a fresh, zesty feel, this tangy Ribolla Gialla offers aromas of peach, mature melon and Golden Delicious apple. The wine is smooth and creamy and would make a
perfect match to spicy appetizers. Kermit Lynch Wine
Merchant. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
Antica Corte 2010 White Blend (Delle
Venezie). A luminous blend of Garganega
(80%) and Pinot Grigio, this easy-drinking Italian white
would pair with tuna salad or sushi. Floral fragrances
are enhanced by a steady, but compact mouthfeel. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
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Esperto 2009 Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie). Easy and informal, this is exactly the style
of wine you’ll want to pour with family and friends at,
say, an outdoor picnic or barbecue. Packaged in a screwcap bottle, the wine offers aromas of melon, citrus and
pear. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
GAVI
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La Scolca 2000 D’Antan Cortese (Gavi).
This is a unique expression of Gavi (from the
far-away 2000 vintage) that shows the extraordinary aging potential of this lively white wine. The elegance is all
in the aging. Stone fruit and floral notes are enhanced
by white mineral, smoky ash and dried lemon zest. The
wine is fresh and crisp with a sour almond note on the
close. This wine won’t appeal to everyone. Frederick
Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
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Teresa Raiz 2008 Ribolla Gialla (Colli Orientali del Friuli). This luminous, golden Ribolla Gialla offers aromas of butterscotch and honeysuckle that are very true to this unique grape variety.
The wine’s creamy structure would stand up to Indian
curry chicken or Chinese fried rice. 1_ No Submitting
Company. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Villa Rubini 2010 Sauvignon (Colli Orientali del Friuli). This fresh Sauvignon with its
pretty aromas of citrus, tomato leaf and kiwi is aged for
eight months on yeast to produce a creamy mouthfeel
that is dense and long-lasting considering the easy parameters of this aromatic grape variety. U.S. Wine Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
DELLE VENEZIE
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Santa Margherita 2010 Pinot Grigio (Alto
Adige). Santa Margherita wrote the book on
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Kupelwieser 2010 Pinot Grigio (Alto
Adige). Here’s a light and bright cool-climate
Pinot Grigio that would pair with seafood salad, tuna
tartar or steamed mussels. The wine offers cool crispness backed by citrus, peach and fresh apple flavors. 1_
No Submitting Company. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
bouquet of this luminous and bright Pinot Grigio. That
fruity note adds a sweet sensation to the nose followed
by aromas of passion fruit and citrus. Rolar. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
Tommasi 2010 Il Grigio Ramato Pinot
Grigio (Delle Venezie). Copper-colored Pinot Grigios like this expression from Tommasi make a
cheerful addition to Chinese take-out dinners or easy
home-cooked meals. This creamy wine offers aromas of
peach, citrus and white almond. Rolar. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
Tommasi 2010 Le Rosse Pinot Grigio
(Delle Venezie). There’s a really nice point of
mature peach or apricot that emerges from the fragrant
Coppo 2009 La Rocca Cortese (Gavi).
Gavi is a fantastically fresh and luminous white
wine from Piedmont in northern Italy that offers tonic,
compact aromas of stone fruit, honey and cantaloupe
melon. There’s a softness in the mouth that is soon followed by refreshing zest. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
Principessa Gavia 2010 Cortese (Gavi).
Light and fresh with a cooling, crisp consistency,
this luminous white wine would pair nicely with spicy
Indian or Mexican appetizers. Aromas of white flower,
stone fruit and sweet apricot appear on the close. Banfi
Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
MARCHE
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Il Conte 2009 Villa Prandone Cavaceppo
Passerina (Marche). Forget Pinot Grigio
and try this wonderful white wine from Central Italy.
Passerina, a little-known native grape, offers crisp sassiness and bright aromas of kiwi, citrus and passion fruit.
There’s loads of fresh personality here. Masciarelli Wine
Co. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
85
Capestrano 2008 Passerina (Marche).
This bright white wine opens with a touch of
crushed mint or basil followed by fruity tones of peach,
citrus and peach. It’s an easy, compact wine that would
WineMag.com | 33
wash down well with steamed mussels or baked clams.
Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
SICILIA
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Planeta 2009 Carricante (Sicilia). For full
review see page 8.
Calatrasi 2010 Terre di Ginestra BlanQ
(Sicilia). BlanQ advertises itself as the perfect
aperitivo, or cocktail wine, and this billing is right on
the money. The bouquet is redolent of summer flowers,
melon and peach and there’s a nice creaminess here,
provoked in part by the Sicilian sunshine. Supreme
Wines & Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
OTHER WHITES
90
Lis Neris 2009 La Vila Friulano (Friuli
Isonzo). From a special vineyard selection,
this gorgeous Friulano has the nature heft and creaminess to pair with risotto and scampi or spaghetti with
clams. The elegant aromas recall honeysuckle, peach
and white melon and the wine leaves a very clean and
lasting impression. Lis Neris Estates. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
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Falesco 2007 Ferentano Roscetto
(Lazio). Ferentano is a luscious and rich white
wine that shows enough structure and staying power
to pair with roast pork or turkey and gravy. It boasts a
round, soft and supple texture backed by thick density.
Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
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UMBRIA
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Firriato 2009 Chiaramonte Ansonica (Sicilia). Chiaramonte is an easy, refreshing expression of Ansonica (one of Sicily’s most celebrated native white grape varieties) that would pair with most fish
-or vegetable-based dishes. The wine finishes with cool
crispness. Soilair Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
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Barberani 2008 Grechetto (Umbria).
Grechetto makes for a wonderful alternative
to Pinot Grigio for lovers of fresh, easy Italian whites.
Citrus and stone fruit aromas are followed by drying
mineral tones and a zesty, clean close. Vinifera Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Lungarotti 2009 Pinot Grigio (Umbria).
This sun soaked-Pinot Grigio from Umbria in
central Italy focuses on ripe aromas of peach and pink
grapefruit. It’s a crisp, luminous white wine packaged
in a very modern and attractive transparent bottle. Vin
Divino. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
VENEZIE
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Duca del Frassino 2010 Garganega-Pinot
Grigio (Venezie). The equivalent of four bottles of wine, this well-priced boxed white blend of Garganega and Pinot Grigio opens with fragrant aromas of
white flowers, stone fruit and honeysuckle. The wine is
fresh, easy and crisp on the close. MW Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $20/3 L
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Duca del Frassino 2010 Durello-Chardonnay (Venezie). This 80-20 blend of Durello (a native Italian grape) and Chardonnay opens with
lively tones of stone fruit, white flower and honey. The
wine is thin and short on the close, but also very refreshing and easy to drink overall. MW Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $20/3 L
Lis Neris 2009 Picol Sauvignon Blanc
(Friuli Isonzo). This beautiful edition of Picol (100% Sauvignon Blanc) opens a specifically Italian
perspective onto this aromatic grape variety. Aromas of
chopped sage, citrus and tomato leaf segue to smooth
roundness and long persistency in the mouth. Lis Neris
Estates. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
Il Conte 2009 Villa Prandone Navicchio
(Offida Pecorino). Pecorino is a very trendy
indigenous Italian grape that fully deserves all the attention is has recently earned thanks to its natural structure
and easy drinkability. The wine boasts aromas of honeysuckle and apricot and would pair with white meat or
fish. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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La Casa Dell’Orco 2010 (Fiano di Avellino). A popular choice in Rome and southern
Italy, Fiano di Avellino is a perfect seafood and shellfish
white wine. There’s crispness and brightness here, all
backed by easy pear, peach and citrus aromas. Bedford
International. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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Teresa Raiz 2009 Vigneti Le Marsure
Chardonnay (Venezia Giulia). This is a
plush, ripe and rich Chardonnay from northeast Italy with pretty aromas of exotic and passion fruits, yellow flower and papaya. It shows creamy density in the
mouth and can stand up to shellfish or grilled tuna.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Venica & Venica 2008 Pinot Bianco (Collio). This is a naturally rich and creamy expression of Pinot Bianco that shows power, determination
and persistence (at 14% alcohol). Aromas include mature melon and stone fruit and the wine would pair with
spicy exotic foods such as Thai beef with cilantro and
green chili. Wine Warehouse Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Giacomo Vico 2010 Donna Anita Arneis
(Langhe). Donna Anita is a crisp and luminous
white wine that would be a great match to appetizers
and fried finger foods. Fresh aromas of citrus, peach,
kiwi and white minerals characterize the lively bouquet.
Saranty Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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Sandro de Bruno 2007 Superiore Durello (Monti Lessini). Here’s an easy, fresh wine
with loads of stone fruit and citrus backed by accents
of chopped mint and spearmint. The wine shows good
structure and could pair with Atlantic fish or grilled cod.
Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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Sella & Mosca 2008 La Cala (Vermentino
di Gallura). La Cala is a fun and easy expression of Vermentino from the sunny island of Sardinia
that shows bright citrus notes backed by tones of honeysuckle and wild sage. Pair this wine with fried calamari.
Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
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Terra d’Aligi 2009 Pecorino (Terre di Chieti). Here’s a Best Buy white wine that would
pair with salads, vegetable dishes and appetizers. It’s
crisp and luminous with lively aromas of citrus, lemon
zest, stone fruit and melon. Pecorino is one of Italy’s
hottest varieties on the indigenous grape scene. Francoli USA. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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Valle Reale 2009 Vigneto Vigne Nuove (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo). Trebbiano
d’Abruzzo is a white wine that delivers both structure
and freshness wrapped around a core of pear, white
flower and peach. This expression from the historic Valle Reale winery does a very nice job of living up to the
grape’s food-friendly reputation. Winebow. Best Buy.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
SWEET WINE
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I Vignaioli di Santo Stefano 2010 (Moscato d’Asti). I Vignaioli makes one of the best
Moscato d’Astis around, and one that is commonly
found in retail outlets across the USA. This sweet and
delicate dessert wine opens with a luminous color, soft
bubbling and sweet flavors of honey, jasmine and peach.
Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $24
ROSATO
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Tommasi 2009 Bardolino Chiaretto. Bardolino Chiaretto is an elegant and delicate wine
with pretty highlights of rose, raspberry and sweet cassis berry. The wine shows a soft, yielding nature in the
mouth with a touch of crisp acidity on the close. Rolar.
—M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
ITALIAN REDS
ALTO ADIGE
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Alois Lageder 2005 Krafuss Pinot Noir
(Alto Adige). This excellent edition of Krafuss (an oak-aged Pinot Noir from Italy’s pioneering
biodynamic winemaker) opens with vibrant aromas of
small berries and toasted nut that emerge in a vertical
and immediate manner. The intensity is wonderful and
it’s so much fun to follow the wine’s ever-changing evolution in the glass. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Cellar
Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
fruit nuances of blackberry and plum followed by wet
earth and spice. There’s a rustic but genuine feel to this
wine. Grape Expectations (CA). Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
85
Calatrasi 2010 Terrale Oro Syrah (Sicilia). This Sicilian Syrah shows ripe fruit aromas
of red cherry, blueberry and succulent spice. It’s a plush,
chewy wine with mature flavors of blackberry jam. Vision Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
VALPOLICELLA
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AMARONE
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Andriano 2009 Santa Maddalena (Alto
Adige). A food-friendly blend of Schiava and
Lagrein (two native grapes of northern Italy) this rubycolored wine opens with a lean consistency and medium
build. It shows cool-climate aromas of small forest fruit
and blue flowers with a touch of white almond on the
close. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
92
Tommasi 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. This is a generous and dense Amarone with pretty layers of ripe fruit, cola, spice and cedar, which overlap in a harmonious and integrated manner. The wine shows intensity and good depth of mature
fruit flavors on the finish. Rolar. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $75
89
Pieropan 2008 Vigna Garzon (Amarone
della Valpolicella). From famed Soave producer Pieropan, Amarone Vigna Garzon opens with a
light, compact style and aromas of blackberry, dried
rosemary and black pepper. The wine shows sweet fruit
flavors on the close. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 16%
Price: $76
PUGLIA
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La Corte 2008 Solyss Negroamaro (Puglia). Solyss is a pure expression of Negroamaro
that offers mature berry and dark fruit aromas with an
earthy layer of exotic spice at the back. Pair this wine
with marinated pork barbecue. Grape Expectations
(CA). —M.L.
Price: $15
abv: 13.5%
87
Tommasi 2009 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso. A bright note of spice that
resembles crushed clove or cinnamon opens the nose
of this pretty Ripasso from northern Italy. The sweet
smelling, generous bouquet is followed by rich structure and a touch of bitterness. Rolar. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
Pieropan 2008 Ruberpan (Valpolicella
Superiore). Ruberpan is a Valpolicella Superiore blend from the new estate of Soave’s Pieropan
producer. The ruby colored wine opens with cinnamon,
spice, black fruit, soya, cured meat and crushed pepper
aromas. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
VENEZIE
86
Cantina di Soave 2010 Re Midas Corvina
(Venezie). Here’s an easy Italian wine (made
with the native Corvina grape) that occupies a space
somewhere between red wine and rosé. You could easily serve Re Midas chilled and pair it with hamburger or
pizza. MW Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
84
Duca del Frassino 2009 Cabernet-Corvina (Venezie). A 80-20 blend of Cabernet and
Corvina (a native grape of northern Italy), this refreshing red wine opens with a lively ruby color and simple
aromas of berry fruit and red rose petal. Pair this wine
with picnic foods such as grilled sausage or hamburger.
MW Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20/3 L
84
Duca del Frassino 2009 Merlot-Pinot
Noir (Venezie). A friendly and informal blend
of Merlot and Pinot Noir, this 3-liter boxed wine from
northern Italy would make a perfect companion at outdoor picnics or baseball games. It’s a light and refreshing wine with crisp flavors of red berries and pressed
violets. MW Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20/3 L
Matané 2009 Negroamaro (Puglia). A
pure expression of the hearty Negroamaro
grape from Puglia (the “heel of the boot of Italy”), this
dark and syrupy wine opens with earthy notes of pipe
tobacco and dark chocolate followed by ripe fruit and
blackberry. There’s a plush, slightly soft texture in the
mouth. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
OTHER REDS
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La Corte 2008 Red Blend (Salice Salentino). This bright Salice Salentino (an 80-20
blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera) shows dark
Marchese Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga 2006
Terre di San Leonardo (Vigneti delle Dolomiti). With crisp mountain fruit, this Bordeaux blend
from northern Italy offers linear and elegant aromas of
small berry, blackberry, spice and crushed black pepper. There’s both firmness and freshness that would pair
with succulent red meat. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
89
Suberli 2009 (Morellino di Scansano).
One of the best Morellinos on the market, Suberli offers a plush and rich expression of Sangiovese
from southern Tuscany with sun-kissed aromas of ripe
blackberry and cherry. The wine finishes with a soft,
spicy close. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
88
Pieropan 2006 Ruberpan (Rosso del Veronese). Really a Valpolicella blend (with Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes), Ruberpan offers
pretty berry intensity and ruby luminosity. Bright aromas of blackberry, spice and cola complete the picture.
Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
86
Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2008
Poggio Stella Merlot (Cortona). This easy
Poggio Stella Merlot is redolent of black cherry, mature raspberry and currants. It’s aged in oak casks for
six months to add a playful touch of spice and toast.
Pair this well-priced Italian wine with grilled sausage or
meatloaf. Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
PORTUGUESE WHITES
OTHER WHITES
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Quinta do Carneiro 2009 Branco (Alenquer). Light and fragrant, a perfumed wine,
with flavors of almond and refreshing acidity. It feels
warm, with pear and lime flavors combining well. Luiz’s
Grocery And Liquors. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
ALENTEJO
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Luis Duarte 2009 Rubrica Branco (Alentejano). The wine has power and considerable
wood flavors at this young stage. It also has concentration of white and yellow fruits, well laced with acidity.
Powerful while always balanced and stylish. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
Price: $25
abv: 14%
92
Luis Duarte 2009 Rapariga da Quinta
Branco (Alentejano). Intense wood-aged
wine, with tropical fruits over the toast and layer of
acidity. It’s impressive, with a fine balance of all the elements—richness and elegance. Give the wine a year
to fully integrate. Laurel Importers. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
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Quinta do Quetzal 2009 Reserva Branco (Alentejo). Toasty, rich and smooth wine,
its mango and grapefruit flavors rounded and full. It’s a
WineMag.com | 35
concentrated wine that is still finding all its complex elements, so age for 2–3 years. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
ing layers of complex flavors. Ibanez Pleven Offerings.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
90
Herdade dos Grous 2010 Branco (Alentejano). Beautifully rounded wine, with just
a hint of vanilla to go with the peach and watermelon
flavors, ripe plums and delicate acidity. Worth aging although ready to drink now. The Barterhouse. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
90
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Herdade dos Grous 2009 Branco Reserva (Alentejano). A superrich wine, full of new
wood flavors, with cinnamon and other spices. It is impressive, almost too much in its intense flavors. It does
need to age for at least a year. The Barterhouse. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
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J. Portugal Ramos 2010 Vila Santa Reserva Branco (Alentejano). Spiced with wood
and nutmeg, this elegant, fruity wine has red apple,
green plum and pineapple flavors, rounded and soft.
Winebow. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $20
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Quinta do Quetzal 2010 Guadalupe Branco (Alentejano). Think freshly cut pineapple
and you have this wine. It is dry but rich with tropical
fruits that are cut through by a line of citrus. The texture offers a limpid, refreshing feel. Laurel Importers.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
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J. Portugal Ramos 2010 Marquês de Borba Branco (Alentejo). The white version of
this popular Portuguese brand is soft, ripe and warmly
fruity. Flavors are of fresh apples and green plums, with
a lacing of lime juice. Signature Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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J. Portugal Ramos 2010 Loios Branco
(Alentejano). Attractive, softly fruity wine,
with some citrus character as well as pear and apple
juice. It is crisp, fresh, ready to drink. Winebow. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
BEIRAS
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Quinta da Agueira (Bairrada). Wood-aged
wine, this combines toast with fine acidity, rounded and
ripe fruit and great elegance. Dried apricots, melon, apples and peach are a feast of fruit, all subsumed into a
finely balanced rich whole. Worth aging for 2–3 years.
FJN Fine Wines LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
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Filipa Pato 2009 Nossa Branco Bical
(Beiras). Rich and rounded, this is an impressive ripe wine, its almond and green plum flavors given great concentration. It is unctuous, smooth, reveal-
Luis Pato 2009 Vinhas Velhas (Beiras).
Showing some of the warmth of 2009, as well
as the concentration of old vines, this is a rich wine with
pure pear and melon fruits and balanced acidity. It’s
stylish, ready to drink, but could age for another year.
Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
Filipa Pato 2010 Bical-Arinto (Beiras).
A smooth yet still zesty wine, with lemon and
peach flavors, reveling in its freshness and rounded corners. The wine, with its light and crisp feel, is for drinking now. Screwcap. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $21
Caves Aliança 2010 Galeria Bical (Bairrada). An earthy wine, softly fruity, with cantaloupe melon and pear flavors. It’s simple, attractive,
light. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
DÃO
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Alvaro Castro 2009 Quinta da Pellada
(Dão). A field blend of old vines from Castro’s
Quinta da Pellada, this is an impressively rich and concentrated wine from a warm vintage. The fruit is ripe,
with peach and mango flavors, the acidity laced with this
richness. A hint of wood adds further complexity. Laurel
Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $72
90
Alvaro Castro 2010 Branco Reserva
(Dão). The wood-aged white from Alvaro Castro is a great swathe of rich tropical fruits, a smooth
structure, fruity but with the edge of mineral terroir and
an intense density of flavor. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $26
90
Garrida 2010 Quinta da Garrida Reserva
Branco Encruzado (Dão). Delicious creamy
wood-aged wine, elegant and aromatic. Flavors swirl
easily here from red apples to lemon to a touch of pineapple. It is ripe while also very fresh. The finish is round,
the wood hints showing through. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Alvaro Castro 2010 Dão. Rounded, oilytextured wine, rich and ripe. Pear, peach and
melon flavors give the fruitiness, while the steely edge
adds structure and gives the wine a fine tension. Laurel
Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $21
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Castro Pena Alba 2010 Serrado (Dão).
Ripe yellow fruits dominate this fruity wine.
With its bright acidity, peach and apricot fruits and a
citric finish, it is fresh and ready to drink. Wine Enterprises LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Quinta das Maias 2010 Branco (Dão). A
blend of six varieties, this is a perfumed wine,
with flavors of wood aging to go with the yellow fruits.
and a soft, rounded mouthfeel. Wineworth LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
DOURO
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Sobredos 2009 Aneto Branco Reserva
(Douro). With more than a hint of wood, this
is a spicy, rounded wine that feels rich and smooth textured. With Sémillon in the blend with local Douro
grapes, there is a full-bodied feel to this serious wine.
Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Wines & Winemakers 2009 Lua Cheia em
Vinhas Velhas Reserva (Douro). Woodaged wine, smooth and rich. The yellow fruits dominate the light hint of toast, with the concentration of old
vines giving extra complexity. Wine Without Borders.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
90
Castro Pena Alba 2008 Duvalley Grande
Reserva Branco (Douro). While there are
considerable flavors of wood aging here, this creamy
white is more concentrated on ripe plum and apricot
fruits, with attractive acidity and forward fruitiness. It
has weight and also a stylish feel to it. Wine Enterprises
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Quinta de la Rosa 2010 Branco (Douro).
Ripe wood-aged wine that has creamy toast and
full fruit flavors within a firm structure of acidity and a
tight mineral texture. It’s full-flavored, the fruit right up
front, all richness and final shining acidity. Vinum Wine
Importing and Distributing LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Quinta de São José 2010 Azeo (Douro).
A delicious lemon- and apricot-flavored wine,
smooth and richly textured. There is a taut, edgy character that keeps the wine structured as well as freshly
fruity. For keeping a year. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
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Quinta das Bandeiras 2010 Passagem
(Douro). A gorgeously ripe wine, a product of
the warm vineyards of the upper Douro, giving tropical
fruit, pineapple and peach. The acidity is there to balance, with its apple skin texture. Vinum Wine Importing
and Distributing LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Duorum 2010 Tons de Duorum Branco
(Douro). Herbal wine, with green plum fruits
laced with basil and chive flavors. The wine has a mineral edge to it, its fruit under tension from the acidity and
bright aftertaste. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
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Wines & Winemakers 2010 Lua Cheia em
Vinhas Velhas Branco (Douro). Made from
old vines (vinhas velhas), this wine has good concentration of green and citrus fruits. There is a tang of lime
zest, giving a cool, fresh feel and acidity. Drink now, or
keep a year. Marquee Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
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Quevedo 2010 Oscar’s Branco (Douro).
Smooth, oily-textured ripe wine, stylish and flavorsome. The melon and apple flavors are counterbalanced by a rich acidity, a dense structure and a vanilla
hint. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
86
Quinta de la Rosa 2010 Dourosa Branco
(Douro). Grassy, herbaceous wine, with citrus
and gooseberry fruits and a refreshing tang of acidity. It
is light to feel, bursting with fresh fruits, very crisp and
green. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Branco (Douro). The white is a welcome addition to the Altano range. This fresh lemon-and pineapple-flavored wine has an almost Sauvignon Blanc herbaceousness to it, while showing plenty of ripe fruit.
There is a refreshing aftertaste. Vineyard Brands. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
84
Borges 2010 Lello Branco (Douro).
Smooth, rounded wine, with vanilla, ripe pear
and a bitter herbal finish. The wine feels fat, unfocused.
Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
LISBOA
91
fruit coming right to the front. Dionysos Imports Inc.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
while still dancing on the palate. FJN Fine Wines LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $12
88
SETUBAL
Quinta de Sant’Anna 2010 Branco Fernão
Pires (Lisboa). Apple-flavored wine, as fresh
as can be and with some attractive spice and vanilla flavors. The acidity is finely balanced to give an ultrafresh
wine. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
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DFJ Vinhos 2010 Casa do Lago Branco
(Lisboa). Full-bodied, spicy wine. It has a ripe,
toast and apple flavor and a smooth texture, with light
acidity. The wine is dry while also soft. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
85
DFJ Vinhos 2010 Coreto Branco (Lisboa). Rounded, soft creamy wine, attractively
fruity with yellow fruits and bright acidity. It’s easy, the
freshness naturally integrated with the soft fruit. Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $6
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DFJ Vinhos 2010 Point West (Lisboa).
Full honey- and melon-flavored wine, with a
soft-textured character. It is full of ripe red apples, well
made, if internationally anonymous. Dionysos Imports
Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
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Dao Sul 2010 Cortello Branco (Lisboa).
A blend of Arinto and Fernão Pires, this is very
aromatic, full of citrus flavors, crisp and clean. Light,
refreshing, quaffing wine. Screwcap. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
DFJ Vinhos 2010 Grand’Arte Alvarinho
(Lisboa). Full and rounded wine, with touches
of toast, pineapple, melon and peach. It’s a fine expression of Alvarinho, keeping the essential fresh structure
of the grape while also giving extra weight and richness.
Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
DFJ Vinhos 2009 Portada Branco (Lisboa). The most successful wine in the medium-sweet Portada range, with its light honey and lemon
flavors, both crisp and soft, ready to drink. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $9
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Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2010 Quinta
dos Loridos Alvarinho (Lisboa). A mineral, tense wine, packed with delicious citrus fruits, a taut
chalky structure and green apple acidity. It has a salty
aftertaste to it. Admiral Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $15
abv: 12.5%
90
DFJ Vinhos 2010 DFJ Alvarinho-Chardonnay (Lisboa). Alvarinho away from the
north of Portugal gives a much creamier style of wine
and makes a fine partner with Chardonnay. So this is
ripe, full-bodied, with tropical fruit flavors as well as
kiwi. It has just the right acidity, well-balanced, worth
aging another year. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
88
DFJ Vinhos 2010 Grand’Arte Arinto (Lisboa). Arinto, sometimes used in sparkling
wine, creates a bright, crisp, lime-flavored wine. It is
powered by its acidity and the apple skin texture, all the
84
DFJ Vinhos 2010 Segada Branco (Lisboa). Ripe and fruity, with some sweetness that
does not seem to be fully integrated. So the green plum
flavors are attractive, as is the acidity, but there is an intrusive sugary edge. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V.
Price: $8
abv: 13%
MINHO
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Aveleda 2010 Alvarinho (Minho). For full
review see page 10.
Aveleda 2009 Follies Janela Manuelina
(Minho). A blend of Alvarinho and Loureiro,
this is rich as well as crisp wine. It has a rich texture,
with lemon, pear and lychee combining to give the
acidity as well as the perfumed fruitiness. It feels full,
92
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2010 Cova
da Ursa Chardonnay (Setubal). This single
-vineyard Chardonnay has a rich, New World feel to it.
The new wood is very present, as well as the tropical
fruit and spice flavors. It is a rounded, powerful wine,
maybe too oaked at this stage. but likely to balance out
in a year. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
91
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2010 Catarina (Setubal). With its new wood flavors, this
is a ripe wine with a Chardonnay-like richness. It has an
opulent feel, flavors of white currants and vanilla combining easily with a lighter, fresher acidity. Admiral Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2009 Quinta
da Bacalhôa Branco (Setubal). The estate
vineyard of Bacalhôa has produced this rich, smoothtextured wine. It has been wood aged, giving a balanced feel on the palate. The wine is dense, full of rich
fruits as well as spice and a rounded texture. Age for
2–3 years, or drink now. Admiral Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2010 JP
Azeitão Branco (Setubal). Perfumed, floral
wine, dominated by Moscatel grapes. The white fruits,
pear and vivid acidity give the wine a fine, fruity balanced character. Admiral Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
TEJO
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Fiuza 2008 Ikon Chardonnay-Trincadeira
(Tejo). Aromatic, tropical textured wine. Great
flavors of ripe pineapple and mango balance with more
green fruit characters and a twist of lime. The wood flavors are well restrained, offering just a touch of final
spice. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
92
Fiuza 2009 Premium Chardonnay-Fernão
Pires (Tejo). Fine, subtle wood here, with
acidity that sits well with the melon, greengage and
green plum juiciness. The wine has a great layer of
spice, and a rich aftertaste. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
90
Fiuza 2010 Chardonnay (Tejo). Smooth,
rich style of wine, very ripe in character. It feels
soft, with tropical flavors and good acidity. There is a
great final citrus cut. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
WineMag.com | 37
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Fiuza 2010 3 Castas (Tejo). A fat-feeling
wine that has definite richness and sweet pear
and apricot fruit flavors. It is ripe, full in the mouth,
more of a food style. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
89
Vale d’Algares 2009 Guarda Rios Branco
(Tejo). Guarda Rios is Portuguese for the kingfisher bird, which lives near the Tejo (Tagus) river. This
crisp blend of Chardonnay with Alvarinho and Sauvignon Blanc has a light hint of wood aging, more of crisp
green fruits and lemon zest highlights. Artisan Vines
Distributing. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
88
Fiuza 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Tejo). On
the tropical side of Sauvignon Blanc, the wine
is packed with great acidity, and a fresh, creamy texture.
It’s as clean as a whistle, a delight to drink. Aidil Wines
& Liquor Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
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Fiuza 2010 Native Branco (Tejo). Delicious, ripe-fruited wine, with pear and quince
and a streak of citrus. Very fresh, although with an attractive creamy texture, it has a great final zing of acidity. Screwcap. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
87
Wines & Winemakers 2010 Companhia
das Lezírias Catapereiro Branco (Tejo).
The blend of Fernão Pires and Arinto produces a rich
and creamy wine with pear, ripe apple and apricot flavors. A floral character gives extra piquancy. Iberia
Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
cot and peach flavors, a fine rounded texture, smooth
and creamy. There is a great tangy citrus finish. Impressive, ripe and rich, definitely for food. Massanois Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
90
Wines & Winemakers 2010 Touquinheiras Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Full, rich and
creamy, a fine expression of the rich white fruit character of Alvarinho. It also preserves some of the crisp
citrus Vinho Verde character, giving a balanced, full and
structured character. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
89
Adega Cooperativa Ponte de Lima 2010
Colheita Seleccionada Loureiro (Vinho
Verde). As full-bodied as Vinho Verde gets, the wine
is a fine example of the creamy, apple-driven Loureiro
grape. The wine is full of green and yellow fruits, full in
the mouth with fine fruitiness. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $12
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Aveleda 2010 Quinta da Aveleda (Vinho
Verde). For full review see page 10.
Casa de Vila Verde 2010 Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Alvarinho gives a rounded, lightly honeyed character to this rich wine. The flavors of
baked apple and crisp citrus dominate, with a full feel to
the ripe aftertaste. Signature Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
cot, melon, orange zest. The wine has a creamy character, though always with the proper citrus acidity of Vinho Verde. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $7
87
Solar de Pinheiro 2010 Azal (Vinho
Verde). A wine with some density of flavor to
go with its intense green apple character. It has some
ripe green berries, laced with pink grapefruit. Laurel
Importers. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $13
87
Wines & Winemakers 2010 Azul Portugal Escolha (Vinho Verde). Rounded style
of Vinho Verde with some weight to go with the extreme
citrus and bright grapefruit flavors. It has a little softness
round the edges, but the core is taut, mineral, tangy.
Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $11
86
Adega Cooperativa Ponte de Barca 2010
Grand Escolha Loureiro (Vinho Verde).
Smooth wine, with green plums and citrus flavors balancing the edge of yeastiness. The wine finishes crisp
and tangy. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $7
86
Casa de Vila Verde 2010 Vinho Verde.
Classic fresh, extremely tangy wine, all apple,
citrus and crispness. It’s lively, although also with some
fruit richness. Drink now, with shellfish. Screwcap. Signature Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $10
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Casa do Valle 2010 Vera (Vinho Verde).
With a good dry tang, this is a delicious Vinho
Verde full of citrus and green apple flavors, as bright
and breezy as the climate of Portugal’s northern Minho
region. Screwcap. Schneider Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
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Wines & Winemakers 2010 Samora Branco (Tejo). Ripe peach and green plum flavors,
laced with steely acidity. This is a wine that has intense
fruitiness, showing a round texture to balance the fruit.
Drink now, and will be best with food. Wines Without
Borders. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2010
Xairel Branco (Tejo). Fresh, apple-flavored
wine, full of white fruits and a tangy, bright acidity. The
wine is deliciously fresh, with stone fruit acidity on the
finish. Wine Enterprises LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $6
Quinta da Alorna 2009 What’s for Dinner? Branco (Tejo). All white fruit, lemon
and grapefruit, soft and with a hint of softness. It’s a
fine apéritif wine, right up front and friendly. Screwcap.
Grape Moments. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $8
VINHO VERDE
91
Casa do Valle 2010 Grande Escolha (Vinho Verde). Big, ripe- fruited wine, full of apri-
Solar de Pinheiro 2010 Avesso (Vinho
Verde). There is a definite spritz to this ripe
and creamy wine. It has the freshest fruit, of course,
rounded out by a baked apple flavor and sweet grapefruit acidity. Weight as well as freshness. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
Casa do Valle 2010 Vinho Verde. A very
mineral and rich Vinho Verde. The intense acidity is there as well as citrus characters and delicious ripe
apple and pear flavors to round out the taut texture.
Massanois Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
Casal do Paço Padreiro 2010 Afros Branco Loureiro (Vinho Verde). A citrus-driven
wine, fruity and fresh. The acidity is layered under a
smoother, ripe character that gives the wine some richness. Clean, intensely fresh while also offering final
crispness. WineWise. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $17
87
Loureiro (Vinho Verde). The ripe Loureiro
fruit, at its best in the Lima Valley, gives flavors of apri-
Caves Aliança 2010 Aliança (Vinho
Verde). With its delicious petillance, this is an
apple-fresh, dry Vinho Verde, with lively acidity as crisp
as possible, ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $9
José Maria da Fonseca 2010 Twin Vines
(Vinho Verde). On the dry side, this deliciously crisp Vinho Verde has all the right citrus acidity. It’s
bursting with lively fruits, just petillant in the mouth,
with a crisp apple finish. Screwcap. Palm Bay International. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $7
Adamado (Vinho Verde). Attractive, just
off-dry wine, very fresh, packed with apples, tangy citrus and a lively prickle on the tongue. Tri-Vin Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $10
Aveleda 2010 Fonte (Vinho Verde). Young,
clean, fresh Vinho Verde, ready to drink, with
refreshing acidity. It has crisp apples and citrus, with
just some sweetness to round it out. FJN Fine Wines
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $8
85
Broadbent 2010 Vinho Verde. The lightest
feeling wine, attractive in its acidity, its slight
sweetness and its creamed apple flavor. A perfect summer apéritif. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 9%
Price: $10
tertaste is smooth, like syrup. Admiral Imports. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 17.5%
Price: $15
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Solar de Pinheiro 2010 Vinho Verde. Classic, crispy white berry- and lime-flavored wine.
It is pierced with acidity, just touched by some softness.
For great summer drinking. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $13
84
Aveleda 2010 Casal Garcia Branco (Vinho Verde). A light, bright, sweet apple juiceflavored wine. It has an attractive prickle and soft texture. A fine, fresh aperitif. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $8
84
Borges 2010 Gatão (Vinho Verde). Clean,
fresh with attractive sweet apple acidity and a
soft aftertaste, giving just a prickle on the palate. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 9%
Price: $7
84
Wines & Winemakers 2010 Salsus Colheita (Vinho Verde). Perfect apéritif Vinho
Verde, light as a feather, attractively laced with citrus
and peach flavors. It has a light prickle on the tongue,
with a soft aftertaste. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $9
83
Wines & Winemakers 2010 Clemens
Reserva (Vinho Verde). A soft Vinho Verde,
with white fruit flavors, only light acidity and some final
sweetness. An attractive apéritif. Marquee Selections.
—R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $14
82
Escolha (Vinho Verde). Somewhat lean, with
tight apples and grapefruit, and a metallic touch that
spoils the acidity. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $5
82
Lagosta 2010 Vinho Verde. A sweet, sugar-water Vinho Verde, refreshing with acidity.
Drink now. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 9%
Price: $NA
SWEET WINES
92
José Maria da Fonseca 2006 (Moscatel de Setúbal). The legendary Moscatel de
Setúbal is produced by one of the finest exponents of
the style. With its raisin and honey character, aged in
old wood, it is a gorgeous wine, suitable as an apéritif
as much as with dessert. Palm Bay International. —R.V.
abv: 17.5%
Price: $10/375 ml
90
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2004 Colheita (Moscatel de Setúbal). Old gold in color,
this Moscatel has been aged in wood to concentrate its
intense flavors. It has flavors of marmalade, dried raisins, so sweet yet flushed through with acidity. The af-
Rozes 2009 Noble Late Harvest Malvasia
Fina (Douro). This rich wine is touched by
botrytis. although its main character is ultraripe, sweet
fruit. Mango, honey and an edge of toast come together
easily. Vranken America. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $27/500 ml
ROSÉS
86
Quinta de Sant’Anna 2010 Rosé (Lisboa).
A particularly clean, fresh and dry rosé, full of
currant fruit, a taut, refreshing texture and a final burst
of acidity. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
85
Rosé (Setubal). A just off-dry rosé with great
fresh fruit, attractive red currants and vanilla flavor. This
is bright, clean, delicious as a food rosé. Screwcap. Admiral Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
85
Casa do Valle 2010 Rosé (Vinho Verde).
Producer of one of the first rosé Vinho Verde,
Casa do Valle continues to make one of the best. Full of
delicious strawberry flavors with great acidity, deliciously fruity. Massanois Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
85
Fiuza 2009 Rosé (Tejo). Fine acidity on
this crisp, raspberry-flavored wine. With an extra year aging it demands to be drunk, offering a pleasurable food-friendly style. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
85
Quinta da Sequeira 2010 Rosé (Douro).
Soft, ripe-fruited wine, with strawberry flavors.
It’s soft, warm tasting, the fruit full-bodied. Value Vines
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
84
Aveleda 2010 Casal Garcia Rosé (Vinho
Verde). Apples and strawberry combine easily in this soft, fresh rosé. It’s fruity, light, with a slight
prickle in the mouth. Screwcap. FJN Fine Wines LLC.
—R.V.
Price: $8
abv: 10.5%
84
Caves Aliança 2010 Vista Rosé (Beiras).
Made from Tinta Roriz, this attractively ripe
rosé is simply fruity, with candy softness as well as some
fresh acidity. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
84
DFJ Vinhos 2010 Casa do Lago Rosé
(Lisboa). A dry style of rosé, with some caramel character along with refreshing acidity. The wine is
fresh, stylish, with a smooth texture and a crisp aftertaste. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
83
Rosé Escolha (Vinho Verde). On the dry
side, with caramel and strawberry flavors, this is an attractive, bright rosé, as fresh as they come. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $5
83
Borges 2010 Lello Rosé (Douro). Pink in
color, a smooth wine, layered in caramel, missing real fruit. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
83
DFJ Vinhos 2010 Coreto Rosé (Lisboa).
Soft, sweet raspberry fruit-flavored wine. It has
a line of acidity while its main character is the light,
sweet aftertaste. Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $6
83
DFJ Vinhos 2009 Portada Rosé (Lisboa).
Light, sweet rosé, with just hints of acidity to
give it a red berry freshness. Dionysos Imports Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $9
83
Wines & Winemakers 2010 Azul Portugal
Rosé (Setubal). Caramel and strawberry aromas lead to a ripe, while still, crisp crushed red berry
wine. Good acidity, a light just off-dry texture. Iberia
Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
82
Lagosta 2010 Vinho Rosé (Vinho Verde).
Sweet rosé from the Vinho Verde region, this
has some fresh raspberry and a light prickle to make it
just that extra bit refreshing. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
PORTUGUESE REDS
ALENTEJANO
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Reserva (Alentejano). A smooth wine, all its
structure encased in warm black fruit and toast. It develops slowly in the mouth, revealing sweet tannins and
opulent juiciness. The acidity is an equally warming addition to the final spice character. Age for 3–4 years.
Laurel Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23
94
Luis Duarte 2009 Rubrica (Alentejano).
Famed consultant Luis Duarte now produces a
range of wines under his own name. This Rubrica is, as
you would expect, beautifully made with the ripest of
fruit and a juicy character from the Alicante Bouschet
in the blend. It is powerful, packed with tannins, deserving several years’ aging. Laurel Importers. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $33
93
Herdade das Servas 2008 Reserva (Alentejano). Pitch black wine, densely concentrated, powerful, its wood aging giving shape to the huge
fruit and tannins. Ripe black fruits add a juicy character,
WineMag.com | 39
with a jammy richness complemented by exotic spices. The wine needs five years’ cellaring. Iberia Wine &
Spirits LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
93
Herdade dos Grous 2008 Reserva (Alentejano). Fermented in open lagars, this wine is
luscious with wonderful depth of black fruit flavor, spice
and acidity. It has hints of wood, although these are already well integrated into the ripe fruit. Age this wine
for at least 3–4 years. The Barterhouse. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $54
92
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2008 Tinto
da Anfora (Alentejano). Always an impressive wine, this latest vintage of Tinto da Anfora powers
forward with great balance among its black fruits, ripe
tannins, oak and enticing acidity. There is a jammy feel
to the texture, although the firm structure holds it all together. Admiral Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
92
Caves Aliança 2007 Quinta da Terrugem
Reserva (Alentejano). A new reserva category from Quinta da Terrugem, this is perfumed with
mint and solidly dense tannins. It has concentrated
black fruits, very rich in style. It needs aging to bring
out the beautiful fruit and structure. Tri-Vin Imports.
abv: 14%
Price: $29
92
Herdade das Servas 2008 Syrah/Touriga Nacional (Alentejano). Both grapes with
tannins and perfumes, Syrah and Touriga Nacional
complement each other well. The result is a wine that
has a dry core surrounded with exotic fruits, in flavors
that range from crystallized violet to herbs to dark plum
skins. Age this wine for four years. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
92
Herdade dos Grous 2009 23 Barricas
(Alentejano). A limited edition of 23 selected
barrels, this impressive wine shows great structure, ripe
Touriga Nacional perfumes, as much elegance as power.
The acidity strides through the wine, giving a fine final
fruity feel. The Barterhouse. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
91
Caves Velhas 2009 Magna Carta Reserva (Alentejano). The long historical connection between Portugal and England is commemorated
in this finely structured wine. With its powerful dry tannins and big chunky fruit and wood, the wine shows an
imposing presence. The ripe fruits and tannins promise
at least five years aging. Admiral Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
91
Colheita Seleccionada (Alentejano). The
American oak aging gives this immediately attractive
and juicy wine just that extra spice and vanilla charac-
ter. It is full, packed with berry fruits that burst in the
mouth. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
full of ripe sweet fruit. The tannins provide a gentle
backbone. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Wines & Winemakers 2009 Abreu Callado Reserva (Alentejano). A smoky aroma and dark chocolate flavors gives the wine a brooding feel. It has considerable weight to go with the spice,
wood and black plum fruits. It could do with 2 years aging. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
90
Companhia das Quintas 2008 Herdade
da Farizoa Grand Escolha (Alentejano).
Rich, ripe and juicy, this structured and fruity wine
has warmth, ripe plum flavors and smooth tannins. It’s
generous, full-bodied, with an open feel to it. Ready to
drink now. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
90
Herdade das Servas 2008 Tinto (Alentejano). The high alcohol gives the wine great
richness while still keeping balance. Warm plum jelly
and blackberry flavors are well integrated with the wood
and spice. With its richness as well as tannins, it should
age over 3 years or more. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
90
Herdade de São Miguel 2009 Ciconia
The Reserva (Alentejano). Rich and smooth
wine, with ripe juicy black berry and plum fruits. It has
sweet tannins, with acidity and a final juicy character.
Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
90
90
J. Portugal Ramos 2009 Vila Santa Reserva (Alentejano). For full review see page 7.
Quinta do Quetzal 2008 Guadalupe Selection (Alentejano). A firm, tannic and juicy
wine. It has an austere, mineral edge to it, powered by
black currants and bitter chocolate. The wine is concentrated, while having a fresh aftertaste. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
89
Herdade dos Grous 2009 Tinto (Alentejano). A rich wine, dominated at this stage by
sweet wood as much as fruit. The black cherry and spice
are just about to come through with the balancing dusty
fruit tannins and acidity. It needs about three years to
become fully ready. The Barterhouse. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
89
J. Portugal Ramos 2009 Quinta da Viçosa S.T. (Alentejano). The blend of Syrah and
Trincadeira brings together two elemental grapes with
their complementary earthy, barnyard characters. They
give the wine a solid, tannic structure offering a solid,
chunky texture and a final ripe feel. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
88
Caves Velhas 2009 Serradayres Reserva
(Alentejano). Brilliant red fruits dominate this
rich, full-bodied wine. It has a dense, jammy texture,
Herdade dos Grous 2009 Moon Harvested Alicante Bouschet (Alentejano). The
earthy character of Alicante Bouschet is very evident
here. The wine, vinified following the lunar calendar,
is full of blackberry juice flavors. The estate is named
after the cranes, Grous, which nest here. The Barterhouse. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
88
J. Portugal Ramos 2010 Ramos Reserva
(Alentejano). A smooth, rich wine from a new
range signed by winemaker João Portugal Ramos. It
has fresh berry fruits, spiced tannin with some structure along with acidity. It shows power, a touch of toast,
while also having elegance. Ready to drink. Winebow.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
88
J. Portugal Ramos 2009 Vila Santa Syrah
(Alentejano). A dark, firmly textured wine, its
fruit wrapped in dark tannins. There is a strong perfumed character and the spicy damson juice is ripe.
A wine with power, density and also acidity. Winebow.
—R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
88
Quinta do Quetzal 2009 Guadalupe
(Alentejano). The earthy ,sweet fruit is shot
through with acidity. The wine is soft, rich, full of black
plum fruits, with a ripe, smooth aftertaste. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
86
Caves Velhas 2010 Romeira (Alentejano). Full-bodied, rounded and soft wine. It has
plenty of ripe plum and spice flavors along with an edge
of toast. Attractive, juicy wine for drinking now. Admiral
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
85
Caves Aliança 2010 Alabastro (Alentejano). One of the many inexpensive wines from
Aliança, Alabastro has an earthy feel, chunky and fruity.
At the same time, it also has richness, perfumed tannins and attractive spicy acidity. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
85
J. Portugal Ramos 2010 Loios Tinto
(Alentejano). Soft, fruity wine, a perfect foil
for grilled meats with its light tannin structure. Ripe and
very fruity, generous and juicy. Winebow. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
ALENTEJO
93
Quinta do Quetzal 2008 Reserva (Alentejo). A big wine in every sense, dark in color,
the fruit supremely rich without being excessive. It is
very structured within its opulent framework. Likely to
age well, this is concentrated, dense. Laurel Importers.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
mineral edge from the chalk (calcário) soil, but it is very
drinkable now. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $62
92
J. Portugal Ramos 2009 Marquês de Borba Reserva (Alentejo). A delicious, smooth
wine, all rounded fruit and sweetness to go with the
more determined tannins that lie beneath. With great
concentration, the wine has a feeling of power while
preserving a core of juicy acidity and sweet red plum
juice. Signature Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
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86
Alente 2005 Reserva (Alentejo). A smooth,
wood-aged wine that shows concentrated fruit,
a mineral edge of tannins. It is dense, with the structure dominant, giving some aging potential. Toast and
black plum skin join acidity on the finish. Value Vines
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
86
Alente 2007 Premium (Alentejo). Rich and
ripe, with soft tannins and black plum flavors. It
is round, while still having a core of attractive tannins.
The fruit dominates, giving a friendly, accessible wine.
Value Vines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
86
J. Portugal Ramos 2010 Marquês de Borba (Alentejo). A young and fruity wine, full of
ripe black currant fruit. Its tannins are soft, a good balance with the fresh, juicy fruit. Drink or age a year. Signature Imports. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $15
84
Alente 2007 Alentejo. Light-textured wine,
with its berry fruits dominant. Hints of wood
aging balance with fruit tannins and acidity. Very accessible, the finish earthy and rustic. Value Vines LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
BAIRRADA
92
Caves Aliança 2006 Quinta das Baceladas Baga (Bairrada). With the French winemaking influence of consultant Pascal Chatonnet, this
is a rich and rounded wine, bringing out some flavors
of wood, while preserving much of the firm, structured
character of the Baga grape. Just ready to drink, but
worth aging. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $28
abv: 13.5%
(Bairrada). A wine that preserves some of the
earthy character of the Baga grape while getting a richer texture from Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. The
result is a powered, chunky wine that also has a hint of
elegance, finishing with delicious fresh spice and juice.
Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
Caves Aliança 2008 Reserva (Bairrada).
Earthy wine, with red plum acidity and a dry
edge. It has some soft juiciness, the wine’s natural austerity leavened by some ripe fruit in the aftertaste. TriVin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
89
Companhia das Quintas 2008 Quinta do
Cardo (Beira Interior). The 2,000-foot-high
vineyard of Cardo yields wines which are structured,
concentrated and austere in character when young. This
2008 is developing well, its black currant fruit softening the tannins and acidity. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
BEIRAS
94
Quinta da Agueira (Beiras). For full review
see page 3.
84
Caves Aliança 2008 Vista Tinto Tinta Roriz (Beiras). A smooth wine, feeling light in
style, with a touch of acidity to go with the gentle tannins. It is now quite ready to drink, easy and approachable Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
DÃO
95
Alvaro Castro 2007 Pape (Dão). A rich and
powerful wine, dense and chewy. Its tannins
dominate a wine that is still young. The damson and
blackberry fruits give richness and acidity. Combined,
the structure and the fruit make an imposing, potentially long-lived wine. Laurel Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $72
94
Alvaro Castro 2007 Quinta da Pellada
(Dão). A star wine from Alvaro Castro. It is
powered by its tannins, its intense mineral structure,
dark plums, cranberry and dense texture. Give this powerful, impressive wine at least five years. Laurel Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $72
93
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Aveleda 2009 Follies Fonte Nossa Senhora da Vandoma Touriga Nacional-Cabernet Sauvignon (Beiras). For full review see page
10.
90
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Filipa Pato 2009 Baga-Touriga Nacional
(Beiras). An initially severe wine, the tannins
giving a dark edge. As it opens, it reveals juicy black currant and berry fruits, the tannin and the feel of wood
adding support to the extreme juiciness. The wine could
age for 2–3 years. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
Filipa Pato 2009 Nossa Calcário (Bairrada). Finely balanced, elegant wine, its acidity
deliciously integrated with firm tannins and red berry
fruits. There is the potential for aging here, with the
Luis Pato 2010 Pato Rebel Baga (Beiras).
One of the finest Portuguese winemakers, Luis
Pato also likes to portray himself as a rebel against the
wine establishment. This wine revels in its pure Baga
character, packed with earthy tannins yet also rich in its
black currant fruit. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
94
Aveleda 2008 Follies Casa da Agueira
Touriga Nacional (Beiras). An intense wine,
with black currant and fresh damson fruits, layered with
firm tannins and acidity. It is rich, spicy, still structured
and firm. Age for three years at least. FJN Fine Wines
abv: 13%
Price: $14
Caves Aliança 2008 Vista Reserva Touriga Nacional (Beiras). From central Portugal,
here is a dark, firm wine, perfumed with hints of violets
and given depth of flavor by the year’s wood aging. A
warm, big-hearted wine with a solid core. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
Price: $13
abv: 13.5%
Ataide da Costa 2009 Ataide Semedo
Reserva (Bairrada). Warm and rich, showing a ripe side of the Baga grape. It has red berry fruits,
lined with tannins, wood and juicy acidity. The dry edge
is well balanced with the fruitiness to give a fine mineral
aftertaste. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
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Vinha Paz 2008 Reserva (Dão). With its intense black color and perfumed aromas, this is
a superb wine. The palate is firm, solid, still tannic, with
the fruit just coming into balance. Nineteen months of
wood aging has rounded the wine without dominating.
Give this seriously ageworthy wine 5–6 years. Laurel
Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
Quinta dos Roques 2007 Reserva (Dão).
Intense and concentrated, full of fruit, tannic
structure and richness. It comes from a fine vintage and
shows the ripe fruit, rich berry and red plum character,
along with a more austere, ageworthy edge. A very fine
wine, and one worth keeping for 5–6 years. Wineworth
Price: $29
abv: 13.5%
92
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Quinta da Garrida 2007 Reserva (Dão).
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Alvaro Castro 2008 Dão. Alvaro Castro’s
wines are firmly rooted in the granite soils of
Quinta dos Roques 2008 Dão. An impressive wine with its rich fruit, jam and tar flavors
complementing the ripe plums and prunes. The wine
has acidity and a mineral character, while showing great
ripeness, spice and a great swathe of tannins. Age for
4–5 years. Wineworth LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
WineMag.com | 41
the Dão. This powerful and concentrated wine, with its
damson and smoky flavors, dark tannins and wood spice,
is a great expression of the region’s minerality. Age for
four years. Laurel Importers. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $21
91
Alvaro Castro 2008 Reserva (Dão). Bringing out the austerity of the Dão, this is a sinewy
wine. It has black currant fruits, packed with juicy acidity. The tannins give a taut, dry core, very mineral and
steely. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
91
Dao Sul 2009 Quinta de Cabriz Four C
(Dão). An intensely structured wine, very ripe
but also floral, perfumed and aromatic. There is power
in this smooth, creamy character, which has rich berry
fruits to go with the tannins. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc.
—R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
91
Vinha Paz 2009 Colheita (Dão). Impressively structured and fruity wine. A tarry texture, sweet juicy black fruits, a solid and concentrated
core—all come together in a firm, ageworthy wine.
Keep for 3–4 years. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
90
Quinta dos Roques 2008 Touriga Nacional (Dão). Touriga Nacional often shows better in the Dão than in the Douro, and this wine is a
powerful case in point. It has a delicious perfumed character, intense acidity and blackberry fruits. The tannins
are firm and in balance. Age for 3–4 years. Wineworth
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $29
89
Caves Aliança 2008 Reserva (Dão). A rich
and firmly structured wine, with intense tannins balanced by concentrated fruit. It shows the granite character of the Dão while also having spice and a
full-bodied feel. Worth aging for another year. Tri-Vin
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
89
Caves Velhas 2009 Catedral Reserva
(Dão). The rich fruit is balanced with dry mineral tannins to give a firmly structured wine. It is rich
with a pent-up power of black tarry fruits, black plums
and intense acidity. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
87
Caves Aliança 2008 Aliança Particular
(Dão). An easygoing ripe red, with the minerality of the Dão rounded into sweeter damson and
red berry fruits. There’s an attractive layer of acidity for
freshness. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $14
86
Quinta dos Roques 2008 Quinta do Correio (Dão). A full, ripe wine that also preserves
the minerality of the Dão. There are black currant and
damson skin flavors, with juiciness as well as spice.
Wineworth LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
DOURO
93
Duorum 2008 Old Vines Reserva (Douro). Incredibly young, this is going to be an
impressive, serious wine. It has all the elements—dark
fruit and acidity tied together with intense tannins. It
tastes of the hard landscape of the Douro, with a severe
character that needs several years to soften. Winebow.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
93
Durham-Agrellos 2008 Marka Reserva
(Douro). An impressive wine, with spice, intense ripe black berry fruits and a solid core of tannins.
It has power without being overwhelming, densely textured and ready to age for several years. Blue Chair Media. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $39
92
Companhia das Quintas 2008 Quinta da
Fronteira Reserva (Douro). Big, wood-dominated wine. Black chocolate joins with sweet plums and
toast for both elegance and balance. It is still young, the
structure needing 3–4 years to really soften and show
its more opulent character. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
91
Caves Aliança 2008 Quinta dos Quatro
Ventos (Douro). A perfumed, new-wood
dominated wine, with mint and toast flavors. It has elegance with layers of black berry fruits. At this stage, the
wood is dominant, and the wine would benefit from 2–3
years aging. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
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Garrida 2007 Quinta da Garrida Touriga
Nacional (Dão). From Aliança’s Dão estate,
the wine was aged 12 months in wood. It exhibits the
richness of the vintage, with its hints of raisins and firm
dry fruit. There is power here, while the wine also has
fine elegance. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
Quinta das Maias 2008 Jaen (Dão). The
neglected red grape from the Dão, Jaen offers
dark color, solid and chunky fruit, very ripe with powerful acidity, earthy flavors and a dense tannic coating.
Powerful and concentrated. Wineworth LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
Caves Aliança 2007 Quinta dos Quatro
Ventos Reserva (Douro). A serious, fullbodied superrich wine. It has all the ripe fruit of the
2007 vintage, almost Port-like in its concentration of
blackberry fruit. There is intense structure and a dry
core of tannins. The alcohol does show with a slight
burn in the mouth—the only fault of the wine. Tri-Vin
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 15%
Price: $59
Sobredos 2008 Aneto Grande Reserva
(Douro). Powerful, concentrated wine, with
still-young tannins. The blackberry fruits are ripe, although with an austere edge that comes from the vintage. The wine, however, has enough richness and
structure to carry it forward for many years. Dionysos
Imports Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
91
Wines & Winemakers 2009 Lua Nova em
Vinhas Velhas (Douro). “New moon on old
vines” is the name of this powerful Douro wine made
from selected old vines. It’s a solid, ripe wine, very textured, complex. It has intense black fruits, laced with
acidity, very firmly anchored in a dense character. Age
for 3–4 years. Wine Without Borders. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
90
Caves Velhas 2008 Alma Grande Reserva
Touriga Nacional (Douro). This is a dense,
beautifully structured wine, full of black fruits, layered
wood and dry tannins. It is full in the mouth, the toast
character balancing well with the powerful ripe fruit.
Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
90
Quinta do Ataíde Reserva (Douro). Still
young, this single-vineyard wine in the Altano range is
showing a powerful structure as well as concentrated
black fruits. It is rich, dark-hued, needing 3–4 years aging. Vineyard Brands. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
89
Quinta da Sequeira 2009 Douro. Located
in the eastern reaches of the Douro, Quinta da
Sequeira has produced a firmly tannic wine, with concentrated berries and dark prune and raisin flavors.
There are hints of licorice, dark chocolate, finishing firm
and concentrated. Value Vines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
89
Ramos-Pinto 2009 Duas Quintas (Douro). Deliciously fruity wine that has a herb and
toast layer and tannins that are soft yet structured. The
acidity gives the point to the red berry fruits. Drink
over the next two years. Maisons Marques & Domaines
USA. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
89
Wines & Winemakers 2007 Murzelo
Reserva (Douro). Dominated by its tannins
and a firm, structured character, this dark-colored wine
is concentrated stuff. It has plenty of acidity that balances the solid, chunky plum fruits. Powerful, a big mouthful. MT Global. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
88
Casca Wines 2009 Monte Cascas Colheita (Douro). Rounded, with rich jammy fruit,
sweet and full in the mouth. The wine has plum jelly flavors, generous and soft feeling, the tannins well buried.
Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
88
Quevedo 2009 Oscar’s Tinto (Douro).
Full, fruity wine with attractive tannins to give a
dry edge to what is a delicious, juicy blackberry-flavored
barbecue wine. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
88
Quinta de la Rosa 2009 Dourosa Tinto
(Douro). The little brother at Quinta de la
Rosa is getting bigger, with its well-crafted fruits, layers of firm spice, sweet tannins and final firm structure.
A reflection of the vintage, this is particularly warm and
rich, for drinking now. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
Quinta de São José 2009 Douro. The nose
is intensely barnyard, but as the wine develops it
shows more smooth tannins, ripe berry fruits and a fine
structure. This is a wine that is still developing, bringing
on the acidity, the wood and the damson fruit flavors.
There is aging potential there. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
88
Rozes 2008 Quinta do Grifo Reserva
(Douro). Sweet ripe plum fruit flavors are
laced with acidity and soft, dusty tannins in this smoky
tobacco-scented wine. It is smooth, rich, ready to drink.
Vranken America. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
88
Organically Farmed Vineyards (Douro).
From vineyards in Douro Superior, the eastern section
of the Douro region, this is a concentrated pure red berry fruit-flavored wine. It wears its richness lightly and
easily, emphasizing the acidity as much as the ripe fruit.
Vineyard Brands. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
Wines & Winemakers 2005 Quinta da Veiga da Casa das Mouras Reserva (Douro).
Juicy, ripe wine, perfumed and the wood aging showing through. The wine is sweet, rich, the tannins well
integrated into the powerful red berry fruits. There is
a hint of maturity, with tobacco and spice flavors. MT
Global. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
87
Castro Pena Alba 2007 Duvalley Grande
Reserva (Douro). Everything is overpowering with this wine, from the weight of the bottle, to the
alcohol, to the intense flavors. It is an impressive oneglass-only wine, packed with concentrated juicy fruity,
spice and wood flavors. Drink now. Wine Enterprises
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
87
Duorum 2010 Tons de Duorum (Douro).
Almost Port-like in its rich fruit, this is a young
and vibrant wine, full of red berries and sweet tannins.
There is a delicious forward, juicy and fruity character
in this ready-to-drink wine. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
87
Muxagat 2010 Tinta Barocca Tinta Barocca (Douro). It is rare to find Tinta Barroca on
its own. Normally it is used for blending in Port. Here,
though, it is in all its ripe fruit glory, an attractive, relatively lightweight wine. It’s for drinking now, with red
berry fruits right to the fore. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
87
Quinta do Judeu 2008 Douro. A very rich
wine, its tannins wrapped in ripe, jammy black
fruits. The wine is solid, powerful, all concentrated fruit,
sweet and juicy. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
87
Sobredos 2008 Aneto (Douro). Big, spicy
wine, full of ripe black plums with dried prunes
coming through strongly. The tannins are dark, providing a firm core of dryness. It does feel somewhat hot,
with alcohol that suppresses the attractive acidity. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
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(Douro). For full review see page 13.
Borges 2009 Lello Tinto (Douro). An attractive, bright, red-fruited wine, laced with intense acidity and a layer of tannins. The wine has great
texture and some sweetness. A very drinkable red. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
85
Quinta do Crasto 2008 Crasto (Douro).
Soft, fruity wine, with an earthy character. The
wine has acidity and red fruits with a final fresh burst
of ripeness. Not for aging, drink now. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
LISBOA
91
Companhia das Quintas 2008 Quinta da
Pancas Reserva (Lisboa). A fascinating mix
of Bordeaux and Portuguese grapes results in a wine
that is both structured and attractively generous. Wood
aging shows through although not excessively, the main
character being the firm fruit tannins and black fruit
concentration. Worth aging two more years. Aidil Wines
& Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
89
DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Shiraz (Lisboa). Spicy wine, layering wood and rich black
fruits, this is densely structured while still fruity. It is
finely balanced, the acidity keeping a refreshing character. Although the wine is called Shiraz, as in Australia,
in fact it has more to do with a Rhône Syrah. Dionysos
Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $13
abv: 13.5%
89
Quinta de Sant’Anna 2009 Tinto (Lisboa). Full-bodied, with spice, pepper and a
stalky edge. Blackberries dominate, followed by a firm,
dry texture. It needs a year in bottle. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
85
Dao Sul 2009 Cortello Tinto (Lisboa).
Fruity red berry-flavored wine, with attractive light tannins, plenty of acidity and an earthy edge.
There’s a touch of pepper, the finish showing fine acidity. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
85
Quinta do Carneiro 2008 Pactus Touriga Nacional (Lisboa). Earthy wine that has
rich, chewy fruit, its tannins a serious element. There is
weight as well, the wine ripe, full, with juicy plum flavors. Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
82
DFJ Vinhos 2009 Portada Tinto (Lisboa).
Described as medium sweet, this is soft and
sugary, its tannins at an awkward angle to the soft surroundings. This style works better with the rosé and
white versions of Portada. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $9
SETUBAL
90
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2007 Só
Touriga Nacional (Setubal). A big-hearted
wine, rich as well as structured. The perfumed fruit
is blackberry lined with acidity, while the firm tannins
give a dusty, dry heart. It’s a concentrated wine, full of
the complexities of Touriga Nacional. Admiral Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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José Maria da Fonseca 2008 Periquita
(Setubal). For full review see page 12.
José Maria da Fonseca 2008 Periquita
Reserva (Setubal). Great swathes of black
fruit, coffee and sweet tannins give this ripe and juicy
wine plenty of character and attractiveness. For immediate drinking. Palm Bay International. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
86
Azeitão Tinto (Setubal). Fresh, juicy wine,
with soft tannins and taut red cherry fruit. The tannins
provide a discreet backbone. Age for 2–3 years. Admiral
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
86
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2008 Meia
Pipa (Setubal). Juicy Castelão fruit propels
this wine, giving spice, soft tannins and ripe red cherries. It is full, very accessible, its acidity adding an attractive edge of freshness. Drink now, or age a year. Admiral Imports. —R.V.
Price: $15
abv: 14%
TEJO
93
Fiuza 2008 Ikon Touriga Nacional (Tejo).
An obviously new-wood-aged wine, with a modern mint flavor and sweet wood tannins. It is very structured, still young, its spice and dark chocolate flavor going well with the black fruits. Age this complex wine for
3–4 years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
WineMag.com | 43
92
Falua 2008 Conde de Vimioso Reserva
(Tejo). Always an impressive wine, this latest
Reserva of Conde de Vimioso is deceptively smooth,
packed with ripe and juicy black fruits. It’s deceptive because under the velvet surface there are powerful tannins at work. The result is a wine for aging over several
years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
92
João Teodosio Matos Barbosa 2007 Ninfa Escolha (Tejo). With some Syrah in the
blend, the wine has a fine perfumed character. The fruit
is stylish, with juicy blackberry flavors, laced with coffee, spicy toast, dusty tannins and delicious acidity. To
age over 5–6 years. Touchstone Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
92
Quinta da Alorna 2008 Reserva Touriga Nacional-Cabernet Sauvignon (Tejo).
Wood-aged, well balanced and firmly structured, this is
concentrated while also elegant. The wine has a dense,
dusty tannic character along with ripe berry and plum
skin flavors. Age this impressive wine for another three
years. Grape Moments. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
91
Fiuza 2008 Premium Touriga NacionalCabernet Sauvigon (Tejo). Firmly tannic
wine, a blend of two naturally tannic grapes. Their acidity provides a counter-balance, giving a black fruit underlay, spice from wood and a dry as well as juicy finish.
Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
91
Vale d’Algares 2008 Guarda Rios Tinto
(Tejo). A rounded, powerful wine, propelled
by black fruits as much as tannin. It has big berry flavors, along with a dense structure, and a firm texture.
The wine will age well. Artisan Vines Distributing. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
90
Fiuza 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Tejo).
Serious, firmly tannic wine that shows a solid
structure to go with the black currant fruit. It has power, although well balanced with its acidity. A firm, dark
aftertaste suggests further aging. Aidil Wines & Liquor
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
89
Quinta da Alorna 2008 Tinto (Tejo). A
smooth wine that has the tannic structure of
2008, along with spice and juicy red fruit acidity. While
the fruit is important, it’s the overall structure, with its
elegance, that scores for the wine. Grape Moments.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
88
Falua 2010 Conde de Vimioso Seleccionada Colheita (Tejo). With its tight tannins,
this is a very structured wine, its juicy black fruits already well integrated into the dark texture. It tastes
powerful because it is so concentrated. At the same
time there is elegance. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
88
Fiuza 2010 3 Castas (Tejo). Red cherries
and plums dominate this fruity wine. It has a
recognizable Portuguese dry tannic core, while around
is a plush and juicy texture. A great barbecue wine. Aidil
Wines & Liquor Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
87
Fiuza 2009 Merlot (Tejo). Despite its alcohol, this is a very fresh wine, its ripe fruit showing typical Merlot cherry jam and soft tannins. It is intensely fruity, perhaps lacking complexity, although an
attractive wine to drink now. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
86
Fiuza 2010 Native Tinto Touriga Nacional-Cabernet Sauvignon (Tejo). On the
stalky side, this is all red berry fruits, with just a touch
of wood to underpin the wine’s fruit-forward character.
Screwcap. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
86
Wines & Winemakers 2009 Samora Tinto
(Tejo). Soft, red berry-flavored wine. It has a
light tannic structure, more in the way of juicy fruit, approachable and easy to drink. There is a fine spicy aftertaste. Wine Without Borders. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
85
Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2009
Xairel Tinto (Tejo). Juicy, fruity wine, all red
berries and freshness. The wine feels warm, just right
for a hot dish on a cold day. The acidty gives some shape
without losing the ripeness. Wine Enterprises LLC.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $6
85
Quinta da Alorna 2009 What’s for Dinner? Tinto (Tejo). Soft, easy drinking. This red
has berry fruits, just the right amount of dusty and juicy
flavors. Screwcap. Grape Moments. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
84
Wines & Winemakers 2010 Companhia
das Lezírias Catapereiro Tinto (Tejo). A
fruity wine, with juicy red fruits and a balance of light,
dry tannins. The wine is dusty, firm, showing some
earthy barnyard character. The aftertaste brings out
acidity. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
OTHER REDS
88
Casal do Paço Padreiro 2010 Afros Tinto
(Vinho Verde). This biodynamic estate produces an amazingly intense red for a Vinho Verde,
with some wood character, firm tannins and great black
fruits. The only hint of Vinho Verde comes from the
bright final acidity. WineWise. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
87
Castelão (Palmela). Dark, dry tannins and
firm plum skin flavors dominate this wine from vineyards south of Lisbon. There is a great streak of acidity,
giving a wine that has both structure and freshness. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
86
Quinta do Carneiro 2007 Reserva (Alenquer). A ripe and elegant wine, full of sweet
fruits, laced with tannins. It has an attractive tar and
plum set of flavors, firmly anchored in its central core of
dryness. Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
83
Aveleda 2010 Casal Garcia Tinto (Portuguese Table Wine). Light red wine, with a
stalky black currant character. It is very fruity, showing
herbs and soft tannins. Almost an apéritif red, certainly
one for lightly flavored dishes. FJN Fine Wines LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $8
SPANISH WHITES
RÍAS BAIXAS
91
As Laxas 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas).
Textbook Albariño from what’s shaping up into
one of Galicia’s best years in a long time. This wine is
elegant and lightly creamy, with flower blossom and citrus aromas preceding apple, peach and nectarine flavors
that are straight from the farm stand. A pure and exemplary wine given that 30,000 cases were made. Frontier
Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
90
Burgáns 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas).
Simply delicious white wine with lip-smacking
freshness, bright peach and apple flavors, and clarity
from front to back. It’s a little leesy but a lot more crisp
and oceanic, with a well-cut body and mild citrus undertones throughout. European Cellars. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
90
90
90
Condes de Albarei 2010 Albariño (Rías
Baixas). For full review see page 10.
89
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Deusa Nai 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas).
Martín Códax 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas). For full review see page 10.
Val do Sosego 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Crisp, lemony aromas are pure as a sea
breeze. The palate is just as pure and fresh, with ripe
apple, citrus, pineapple and stone fruit flavors all mixing well. Elegant and crisp, with just the right finishing
weight and length. Saranty Imports. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
Condes de Albarei 2010 Salneval Albariño (Rías Baixas). Melon and peach aromas are clean and attractive. The palate is round and
creamy, with just enough acidic cut. Flavors of melon
and peach carry onto the finish, which has thickness and
smoothness. Easygoing for Albariño. CIV/USA. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
ing citrus and mineral notes. Cabernet Corporation.
—M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Palacio de Fefiñanes 2009 Albariño de
Fefiñanes Albariño (Rías Baixas). Delicate aromas of lime and lemon blossom are well cut and
minerally. The palate is juicy, fresh and lively, with sweet
melon and apple flavors. Stays melony and apple-driven
on the finish, which ends a bit sweet. Kysela Père et
Fils. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $26
Serra da Estrela 2010 Albariño (Rías
Baixas). Apple and honeyed aromas are round
and ripe. The palate is chunky and easy, but with good
acidity. Flavors revolve around apple and peach, while
the finish is linear and direct. Ripe and solid wine from
a good vintage for Albariño. Palm Bay International.
—M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
87
Alvinte 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Neutral smelling except for a touch of oiliness and
tropical fruit. The palate is soft and melony, with sweet
melon and papaya flavors. Round and pulpy on the finish, with a slight pithy bitterness at the very end. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
85
Pazo Serantellos 2010 Albariño (Rías
Baixas). Forward on the nose, with standard apple and white peach aromas. The palate is a bit
clipped and short, with green-leaning flavors of scallion
matched with grapefruit. Finishes citrusy. CIV/USA.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
RUEDA
91
Blanco Nieva 2010 Pie Franco Verdejo
(Rueda). What a beauty this is. Strong-boned
apple, green melon and minerally aromas are the greeting. The palate is pure and right, with piercing pineapple, lime and mild briney notes. Lasting and true late,
with quality oozing up from the glass. Frontier Wine
Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $28
89
Blanco Nieva 2010 Verdejo (Rueda). Citrus, passion fruit and lime are draped all over
the quality bouquet. The palate is juicy and offers a mild
spritzy feel, while the palate is sweet and easy but maintains its necessary core citrus and mineral qualities. Finishes mild, smooth and a little sweet. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
Price: $22
abv: 12.5%
88
Viña del Sopié 2010 Verdejo (Rueda).
Punchy and citrusy on the nose, with passion
fruit leading the way. It’s balanced and round in the
mouth, but good acids push green apple, green melon
and peach flavors. Solid and true on the finish, with last-
Verderol 2010 Spring in a Bottle Verdejo (Rueda). Clean and nice on the nose, with
green fruit aromas and classic Verdejo prickle. The palate is bouncy and juicy, with lime, tangerine and passion
fruit flavors. Fades quick on the finish but remains crisp
and refreshing. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
Val de Los Frailes 2010 Verdejo (Rueda).
More neutral, simple and heady than the top
Verdejos, but this being a fresh 2010 it still has its qualities and authentic Rueda characteristics. It’s citrusy and
briney, with apple and tropical shadings. Matarromera
USA, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
OTHER WHITES
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86
Bogatell 2010 Garnacha Blanca (Terra
Alta). For full review see page 11.
Dominio de Eguren 2010 Protocolo Blanco (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Melon
and almond skin aromas lead to pithy citrus on what
amounts to a pretty good bouquet. Round, citrusy and
fresh in the mouth, with orange, passion fruit and tropical leanings. Solid and well shaped for a $7 quaffer. 70%
Airen and 30% Macabeo. Fine Estates From Spain.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $7
86
86
La Purísima 2010 Capa Rota Macabeo
(Yecla). For full review see page 13.
Sumarroca 2010 Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Penedès). Light and mostly neutral smelling, with citrus aromas and not much else.
It’s chalky and medium-bodied, with semisharp acidity and fresh, simple flavors of melon and apple. Crisp,
zesty and juicy on the back end. Frontier Wine Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
85
Ochoa 2010 Viura-Chardonnay (Navarra). An unusual blend of Viura, Chardonnay
and Moscatel with unusual aromas of mustard seed,
gardenia and oily lemon extract. The palate is chunky
and round, with soft, floral green fruit flavors. Mellow
and smooth, with somewhat low acidity on the finish.
Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
Price: $14
abv: 12.5%
SPANISH ROSADOS
NAVARRA
87
Bodegas Julián Chivite 2010 Gran Feudo
Rosado Rosé (Navarra). This vintage seems
to have taken a step forward compared to past years. It’s
bright pink in color, with tight, salinic aromas of cherry
and apple skins. Tastes tangy and crisp, with plum, nectarine and citrus flavors. Real good for the price. Spain
Wine Collection. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
87
Vega Sindoa 2010 Garnacha Rosé (Navarra). Shiny pink in color, with a crisp and
wet nose that powerfully suggests refreshment to come.
Juicy and superfresh on the palate, with cherry and
raspberry flavors and citrusy undertones. A real winner in Garnacha rosé from Navarra. Fine Estates From
abv: 13%
Price: $8
83
Ochoa 2010 Garnacha Rosado (Navarra). Salmon colored, with somewhat flat aromas
of peach and sweet melon. Sweet on the palate, with
weight and thickness along with cantaloupe and a candied aftertaste. Finishes chunky and flat; tasted twice
with inconsistent findings. This note reflects the better
bottle. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
OTHER ROSADOS
86
Capçanes 2010 Mas Donis Rosat (Montsant). Raspberry and citrus aromas sit in front
of a cheerful, sweet-styled set of juicy watermelon and
plum flavors. This is about as simple as it gets, with a
bright pink color, mild acidity and good balance. A wine
to drink as soon as possible. European Cellars. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
85
Marco Real 2010 Garnacha Rosado (Navarra). Confected on the nose, with red licorice candy and red apple skins. It’s forward and juicy in
the mouth, but a little cloying if not served really cold.
Tastes of candied berry and watermelon; good in a regular way. Cabernet Corporation. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
81
Cortijo 2010 Cortijo III Rosado Rosé
(Rioja). Murky out of the chute, with heavy
plum aromas. The palate is sticky and seems on its way
to turning flat. Tastes kind of mealy and dull, with red
apple and caramel notes. Not fresh enough to do the
job. Ole Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
SPANISH REDS
CALATAYUD
88
Evodia 2010 Old Vines Garnacha (Calatayud). Floral and fresh smelling, with rosy
notes, blueberry and nary any funk, leather or earth.
Vibrant and juicy in the mouth, with boysenberry and
plum flavors that set up a fruity, clean finish. Brighter,
smoother and easier going than the 2009. European
Cellars. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $9
88
Las Rocas de San Alejandro 2008 Vinas
Viejas Garnacha (Calatayud). Minty, pointy
WineMag.com | 45
oak aromas jump out at you, followed by pepper, leather, spice and herbal berry scents. Tight and structured
in the mouth, with black plum and ripe berry flavors.
Turns oaky and hot on the finish, with vanilla and pepper flavors. A little fiery but the real deal for Calatayud.
E & J Gallo. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
87
Evodia 2009 Old Vines Garnacha (Calatayud). Earthy tobacco and natural warmth
provide for a good nose. It’s briary smelling as well, with
racy cherry and plum flavors. Shows some heat from
15% alcohol, but for $9 wine it packs a lot power and
flavor. Unmistakable Garnacha that reflects sunny environs. European Cellars. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $9
87
Tres Ojos 2009 Unfiltered Old Vines Garnacha (Calatayud). Rubbery and dark on
the nose, with lots of black plum and cherry to ponder.
The palate is firm and balanced, with round, rubbery,
roasted plum and dark berry flavors. Full, nice and long
enough on the finish to keep you involved. Kysela Père
et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
86
El Escocés Volante 2009 La Multa Old
Vine Garnacha (Calatayud). Mint and milk
chocolate are the lead aromas, followed by cherry and
herbal notes. The wine is basic, fresh and fruity, with
choppy tannins, heat and lively red berry flavors with
citrus undertones. Runs a bit rough and heady. WellOiled Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
86
Las Rocas de San Alejandro 2009 Garnacha (Calatayud). Mineral and leather aromas are a combination of the wine’s rocky soil origins
and heat and dryness from 15.2% alcohol. Evolves in
the glass, going from tasting spicy/earthy to medicinal
plum and berry. Finishes round, sweet, hot, herbal and
syrupy. E & J Gallo. —M.S.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $14
84
Pontecilla 2009 Old Vines Tempranillo
(Calatayud). Dark, crusty and minty on the
nose, with obvious oak. The palate is tannic as a drill,
with hard blackberry and herbal flavors. Toasty and peppery tasting on the finish, which is tough and drawing in
feel. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
83
Figaro 2009 Tinto Red Blend (Calatayud). Starts out with leather and cheesy aromas, and beyond that there’s not a lot of fruit on the
bouquet. It’s a chunky, heavy wine with thick, jammy
plum flavors that have strong herbal undertones. Warm,
grabby and baked on the finish, which is plodding. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $10
CAMPO DE BORJA
88
87
87
84
Borsao 2010 Garnacha (Campo de Borja). For full review see page 11.
Borsao 2010 Monte Oton Garnacha
(Campo de Borja). For full review see page 12.
Borsao 2010 Viña Borgia Garnacha
(Campo de Borja). For full review see page 12.
Bodegas Aragonesas 2010 Viña Temprana Garnacha (Campo de Borja). Pointy on
the nose, with modest fruit aromas suggestive of raspberry. A bit astringent across the palate, with red plum
flavors that hit hard then fade fast, leaving bitterness
akin to espresso. A crisp, juicy, tight style. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $7
CARIÑENA
86
Bodegas la Aldea 2009 La Gardea Garnacha (Cariñena). Lightly herbal and briary
smelling, with solid berry aromas. The palate is thorough and chewy, with herbal plum and berry flavors in
front of a tasty, juicy finish that’s medium in length and
doesn’t bite down. Casa Ventura Imports. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $8
85
Bodegas Virgen del Águila 2009 Señorío
del Águila Crianza (Cariñena). Smells like
hickory-smoked barbecue with earthy berry and dill.
The palate is rubbery in feel, with drying tannins and
savory tasting red fruit flavors that are a touch resiny.
Spice and berry notes work the finish. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
85
Sierra de Viento 2009 Tempranillo (Cariñena). Normal berry and cherry aromas are
composed and lead to a narrow, tight palate with medicinal plum and berry flavors. Bounces along nicely to the
finish, which is short and regular in feel. This is all fruit
and cheer; no oak and not complicated. Iberian Wine
Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
84
Sierra de Viento 2008 Old Vine Garnacha
(Cariñena). Herbal up front, with pine aromas
in addition to berry and plum. The palate is tannic and
kind of gritty feeling, with medicinal cherry and candied
berry flavors. Finishes sweet, with some burn. Iberian
Wine Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
83
Solar de Urbezo 2010 Dance Del Mar
Tempranillo-Merlot (Cariñena). Sweet red
plum aromas are candied and jumbled. The wine is
clacky in the mouth, with a lot of acidity and narrow,
sweet cherry flavors. Shows heat and burn on the finish. 50% Tempranillo-50% Merlot. Patagonia Wine &
Imports, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
80
Campo Marin 2006 Selección Crianza
(Cariñena). Sweet red fruit aromas have a
chemical artificiality to them. The palate is underdeveloped, thin and tastes medicinal. Drying and hollow on
the finish. Beacon Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
JUMILLA
85
Bodegas Carchelo 2009 C (Jumilla). Jammy, baked aromas of pastry and berry are flat
and dense. The palate is soft and beefy, with jammy, almost syrupy blackberry and raisin flavors. Stays sweet
on the finish. Flavorful and meaty but doesn’t show
much spine. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
83
Bodegas la Aldea 2009 La Aldea Monastrell (Jumilla). Berry and prune aromas are
heavy and rubbery. The palate is quite acidic, with plum
and cherry tomato flavors leading to a stern, crisp and
grabby finish. Turns more linear and astringent the longer it’s open. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $8
MONTSANT
90
Capçanes 2008 Cabrida Garnacha
(Montsant). A single-vineyard Garnacha that’s
ripe and sultry. There’s earth and oak on the mineral-tinged nose and then smooth flavors of blackberry,
baked plum and spice. Feels soft and mature for Garnacha, and therein lies the secret of Montsant: The better
wines (like this one) have a pleasant, friendly quality to
them. European Cellars. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
90
Capçanes 2007 Costers del Gravet
(Montsant). Well-applied oak is the greeting;
it’s mildly lemony and minty. Tight and focused on the
palate, with cherry and plum flavors and tannic structure. Turns a touch herbal in the midpalate due to 50%
Cabernet in the blend, but the Garnacha and Carignan
half keep it in the right lane. Tasty and stylish, with regional style. European Cellars. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
89
Capçanes 2009 Mas Donis Barrica Garnacha (Montsant). Smoky and dry for starters, then crisp in the mouth, with bright red fruit flavors
of cherry and plum. Picks up oak, heat and sweetness
on the finish, but overall this is exactly the type of flavorpacked red wine most people want. Grenache with 15%
Syrah. European Cellars. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
NAVARRA
91
Monastir 2006 s. XII Cluny (Navarra).
Smoky, meaty and attractive from the start,
with vanilla, tobacco, plum, berry and herbal notes on
the nose. Rich, layered and fairly tannic in the mouth,
with flavors of tobacco, coconut, sweet berry and cassis.
Long, stylish and nice on the finish; a well-oaked blend
of 50% Tempranillo, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10%
Merlot. Rodinia LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
90
Marco Real 2007 Reserva de Familia (Navarra). This kitchen sink Tempranillo blend
brings heavy leather, mint, spice, cola and black fruit
aromas that are really nice as a whole. It’s weighty and
deep in the mouth, with blackberry, vanilla and coconutty flavors. Grabby, ripe, tannic and modern all the
way through the finish. Cabernet Corporation. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
88
Monastir 2006 s. XII Cister (Navarra). Begins murky, with baked red fruit and tomato
aromas. The palate is tight and shows structure along
with roasted, spicy, dry berry flavors that sweeten up towards the finish. Interesting despite being a bit baked
out and rustic. 60% Merlot with 30% Tempranillo and
10% Cabernet. Rodinia LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
88
Ochoa 2003 Single Vineyard Reserva
(Navarra). Leafy and dry smelling, with exotic
lavender and cumin aromas to go with brushy dried berry, pine and smoked meat. Feels good and healthy despite being eight years old, with tobacco, leafy red fruit
and earthy, dry flavors. A little stalky, roasted and herbal but very nice. 60% Tempranillo, 25% Cabernet and
15% Merlot. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
87
Ochoa 2002 Reserva Single Vineyard
(Navarra). Rooty and sweet smelling, with tobacco, burnt brown sugar and raisin aromas. The palate is thick, stacked and jammy, with raisin, tobacco and
candied prune and cherry flavors. Very tasty and sweet
but a little flat and old. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
PENEDÈS
93
Torres 2007 Reserva Real (Penedès). An
outstanding Bordeaux-style blend from Spain.
Ripe and lusty aromas of deep berry fruits, vanilla and
balsam shavings are excellent. Weighty and saturated
on the palate, with elevated cherry, toast, coffee and
chocolate flavors. Toes the line between sweet and dry;
drink now through 2020. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
Price: $162
abv: 14.5%
92
Jean León 2007 Zemis (Penedès). Attractive berry and plum aromas come with dry
spice, light toast and a hint of char and minerality. Lively
and pure in the mouth, with good acidity pushing cassis,
raspberry, light herb and spice flavors. Fresh and becoming more toasty on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon,
Cab Franc and Merlot that’ll be best from 2014 through
2020. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $145
90
Jean León 2001 Vinya La Scala Gran
Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Penedès).
Roasted and still robust 10 years after harvest, with aromas of grilled meat, fall leaves, tobacco and herbs. It’s
round on the palate, with heat and slightly herbal and
roasted core flavors surrounded by berry and pepper. A
mature and interesting single-vineyard Cabernet from
northeast Spain. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
RIBERA DEL DUERO
88
Milcampos 2009 Viñas Viejas Tempranillo Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). Dense,
deep aromas of grilled meat and berry fruits lead to a
full and concentrated palate with structure and fierce
tannins. Tastes of classic blackberry and plum, with light
herbal shadings. Turns more spicy and interesting on
the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $34
87
Bodegas Fuentespina 2007 Selección
Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). Smoky
and meaty smelling to begin with, like a mix of barbecued spare ribs and roasted berries. The palate is full,
tannic and drying, with bacon, hickory and baked blackberry flavors mixed with herbs. Hard and clacky on the
finish, but flavorful and solid throughout. Axial Wines
USA. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
87
Bodegas y Viñedos Tábula 2009 Damana
5 Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). Mineral,
earth and graphite aromas give this rugged young Ribera complexity to go with racing berry fruit. The palate
is a bit sharp and pounding, with boysenberry flavors
coming with tannic bite and zest. Crude but fresh and
clean, this wine should be smoother by the end of 2011
into 2012. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
86
Emilio Moro 2009 Finca Resalso Tinto
Fino (Ribera del Duero). Earth, cola and
leather aromas are good, however the fruit portion of
the bouquet is a bit damp and roasted. The palate is
hard and rugged, with driving cherry and plum flavors.
Earthy and herbal on the finish. Fine Estates From
Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
86
Emina 2007 Crianza Tempranillo (Ribera
del Duero). A dark style of Ribera with concentrated blackberry, licorice and charcoal aromas. The
palate is more simple and spread out, with heavy tannins and creamy oak creating a jammy, sweet flavor profile that offers up a lot of mocha. Finishes tannic and
shallow, with oak-based creaminess. Matarromera USA,
Inc. —M.S.
Price: $21
abv: 13.5%
86
Marques de la Concordia 2008 Hacienda
Abascal Crianza Tempranillo (Ribera del
Duero). Drawn and leathery on the nose, and then as
it opens it reveals citrusy red fruit aromas. The palate is
lean and tight, with light cherry, raspberry and plum fla-
vors. Toasty, dry and a bit buttery tasting on the finish.
MHW, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
86
Viña Mayor 2007 Crianza Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). Spice and light berry aromas form a simple but welcoming bouquet. The palate
is snappy, with reductive tannins and dry, earthy berry and herb flavors that suggest raspberry, plum and
thyme. Easy and light on the finish. HAB North America. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
85
Cepa 21 2009 Hito Tinto Fino (Ribera del
Duero). Solid and leathery on the nose, with
normal berry and plum aromas. The palate is full, round
and supremely tannic, with big berry, plum and herbal
flavors that culminate with more hard tannins and chocolate. A rubbery wine that hits hard. Fine Estates From
Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
85
Splendore 2007 Tempranillo (Ribera del
Duero). Dry on the nose, with balsam shavings,
pepper and secondary red fruit aromas. The palate has a
choppy, fairly hollow feel and then short flavors of plum
and berry. Spice and mint notes work the finish, which
is mellow. Overall this is standardfare RDD. Frontier
Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
81
Emina 2009 Pasión Tempranillo (Ribera
del Duero). Burnt, gritty and ultraearthy on
the nose, with mulchy, herbal accents. The palate is
scratchy and tannic, with roasted fruit, scorched earth
notes and hard tannins. Finishes with light vanilla and
coconut. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
RIBERA DEL QUEILES
90
Winery Arts 2006 Number Nine (Ribera
del Queiles). Smoky, minty and spicy on the
nose, with plenty of dark fruit and lavish oak. The palate, like the entire wine, is integrated and balanced. Tobacco, herb, molasses and toasty oak flavors blend well
with ripe, foresty berry notes. Hard and tannic, but expressive, fruity and clean for a wine that’s based mostly
on Cabernet Franc. Ole Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $20
88
Guelbenzu 2007 Azul (Ribera del
Queiles). Spicy and rubbery at first, with aromas of bacon and earthy berry fruit. Staunch across the
tongue, with cola, carob and cassis flavors. Becomes
leaner and more racy as it finishes, with rooty, herbal
flavors. 50% Tempranillo with 30% Merlot and 20%
Cabernet Sauvignon. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
88
Guelbenzu 2006 EVO (Ribera del
Queiles). It’s hard to avoid the wine’s rooty,
green aromas of bell pepper and spice, which fall in
front of a thick, bullish, tannic palate with sweet, slightly baked berry and cassis flavors. Bulky on the finish,
WineMag.com | 47
which deals bitter chocolate and herb flavors. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with 15% each Merlot and Tempranillo. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
RIOJA
92
San Vicente 2007 Tempranillo (Rioja).
One of Rioja’s best wines is quite fine, but not
nearly as deep and expressive as it has shown in top vintages. The nose offers earth and subtle spice along with
black fruit, while the palate is deep and smooth, with
blackberry, mocha, cinnamon and nutmeg flavors. Medium-long on the finish. Drink now through 2015. Fine
Estates From Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $62
90
Bodegas Roda 2007 Roda I Reserva
Tempranillo (Rioja). Berry fruit, spice, earth,
tea and leather aromas give this off-vintage wine ample
complexity on the bouquet. The palate is layered and
stout, with smoky black fruit flavors accented by chocolate and pepper. Toasty and stylish on the finish. Drink
now through 2014. Kobrand. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
90
Bodegas Roda 2007 Roda Reserva (Rioja). Maple syrup and gritty raisin aromas turn
smoother and more open with air. The palate is layered
and structured, with raisin, cherry, pepper and licorice
flavors. Long, warm and satisfying on the finish, with
classic Rioja vanilla notes. Drink now through 2013. Kobrand. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
89
Sierra Cantabria 2007 Cuvée Tempranillo (Rioja). Smoky and secure on the nose,
with dry oak, spice and lighter aromas of red plum and
raspberry. The palate is juicy, firm and dry, with snappy
flavors of spiced plum and red cherry. Finishes buttery
and creamy, but with tightness and adequate length.
Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $29
88
Muga 2007 Reserva Unfiltered (Rioja).
Earth, cherry, spice and leather aromas are subtle and do not overpower. The palate is kind of snappy
and tangy, which may be due to 20% Graciano in the
blend. Flavors of tomato, herbs and red berry are firm
and perky, while the finish is dry and tight. Drink now
through 2014. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
85
Viña Olabarri 2008 Bikandi Crianza Tempranillo (Rioja). Spice and dark fruit aromas
settle fairly well. It’s light to medium across the palate,
with zesty acidity and standard flavors of black cherry,
plum and pepper. Crisp and clean on the finish, confirming its basic but juicy disposition. P-S Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
84
Bodegas Bilbainas 2008 Viña Zaco Tempranillo (Rioja). Ultratight cherry and plum
aromas create a lean red fruit profile. The palate is extra
crisp and sheer, with piercing raspberry then a wash of
oak flavor. Paper thin on the finish, with freshening acids and a final blast of oak. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
84
Bodegas Palacio 2008 Cosme Palacio
Vendimia Seleccionada Tempranillo (Rioja). Harsh and nervy on the nose, with early aromas of
horseradish and chemical that subside with airing. The
palate is medium in size, with grabby tannins and dry,
oaky flavors mixed with herbal berry notes. Finishes
resiny and short. HAB North America. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
83
Torres 2008 Ibéricos Crianza Tempranillo (Rioja). Earthy and briary aromas lack
fruit except for a pinch of cherry. The palate is tight and
choppy, with herbal, oaky flavors that again show little
to no fruit. Dry and lightly toasted on the finish, which
is tangy. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
81
Calma 2008 Calma (Rioja). Reedy and
scratchy smelling, with green, medicinal scents
mixed in. The palate is all acid, leading to sour plum and
herbal pie cherry flavors. Super sharp and acidic all the
way through. Ole Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
TORO
with black fruit galore, shoe polish, peppercorn and
chocolate aromas. Intense and tannic but layered and
deep, with a granite body and dark, ripe flavors of blackberry, fig, spice and chocolate. Huge, toasted and modern in every way. Drink from 2012 through 2016. Fine
Estates From Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $69
86
Matsu 2008 Tinta de Toro (Toro). A big,
burly wine that’s loaded with power and fruit
but is also tannic and drying. Tastes sort of raisiny and
hot, with grating tannic scrub and fire in the hole. Pretty good but it doesn’t have the purity, elegance and
clean richness of the region’s best wines. Rodinia LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $49
CASTILLA Y LEÓN
89
Dominio de Eguren 2009 Protocolo Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla).
One of the best deals in Spanish red wine you’re likely to find. Protocolo has always delivered value but this
vintage sets a new high standard for $7 Tempranillo.
It’s deep, ripe and minty on the nose, with berry power
foretelling a pure, lush palate that’s packed with berry
flavors and light herbal shadings. Impressive and super tasty, especially given the price. Fine Estates From
abv: 13.5%
Price: $7
94
87
93
Teso La Monja 2008 Alabaster Tinta de
Toro (Toro). A dark bruiser with heavy mocha,
chocolate, tobacco, cola and crusty leather aromas in
addition to massive fruit scents. It’s huge in the mouth,
with broad, grabby tannins, pumped-up acids and wide
berry, vanilla and coconut flavors. Dark like coffee on
the finish, with titanic tannins and foundation. Best
from 2013 through 2016. Fine Estates From Spain.
Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $243
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Numanthia-Termes, S.L. 2008 Termanthia
Tinta de Toro (Toro). Lush and classy, with
earthy blackberry, hard spice, chocolate and lemon peel
aromas. The palate is a mile deep and tannic, but it’s not
too hard or mean, and it tastes fantastic, with ripe blackberry, chocolate, spice and toast flavors. Complex and
masculine, with tobacco and woodspice on the finish.
Drink from 2012 through 2016. Moët Hennessy USA.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $200
Numanthia-Termes, S.L. 2008 Numanthia
Tinta de Toro (Toro). Smells floral, toasty and
black fruited, with cola and tobacco notes. Like all previous Numanthias, this is hugely structured and tannic,
with ripe berry, spice and bitter chocolate flavors. Finishes massive, with mocha, coffee and toast. Grabby and
hard now, but delicious. Needs two more years in bottle;
drink from 2012 through 2016. Moët Hennessy USA.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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Teso La Monja 2008 Victorino Tinta de
Toro (Toro). Smoky and big on the bouquet,
Dominio de Eguren 2009 Codice Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y
León). Broad and ripe on the nose, with sappy blackberry, plum and youthful aromas. The palate is big,
full and tannic, with roasted plum and berry flavors in
front of a smoky, hickory-driven finish. Chewy, blowsy
and generous for $10 Tempranillo. Fine Estates From
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
Storks’ Tower 2009 Tríptico Tempranillo-Shiraz (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla
y León). Opaque purple to the eye, which portends
the wine’s dark, meaty, jammy aromas of black fruit and
leather. The palate is chewy and syrupy in feel, with
massive but basic blackberry, toast and peppery flavors.
Big and hot on the finish, with size but suspect balance.
67% Tempranillo and 33% Shiraz. HAB North America. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
Finca Constancia 2009 Parcela 23 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla).
Opens with aromas of funky fruit, sweet spice and BandAid. The palate is heavy and kind of flat, with weight and
richness. Tastes candied and herbal, with a sweet and
syrupy finish that’s sticky at first and then burns a little
as it fades away. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
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Tapeña 2009 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Concentrated on the nose,
with medicinal berry aromas that become more stemmy
and herbal with time. The flavor profile is herbal and
medicinal just like the bouquet; solid in terms of feel.
Freixenet USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
OTHER REDS
85
Castillo de Almansa 2009 Monastrell (Almansa). Starts out round and red fruited before turning more herbal and raw with air. The palate is
thick and rugged, with green-inflected strawberry and
raspberry flavors. Quick, minty tasting and gritty on the
finish. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
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Silvae 2009 Made With Organic Grapes
Monastrell (Spain). Herbal, earthy aromas
tell the story. The wine has heft and stemmy qualities,
with sweet berry and coffee flavors along with mounting warmth. Turns more herbal and earthy as it airs out,
with staunch acidity and a rubbery tannic grip. The Triton Collection. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $9
81
Carro 2009 Tinto (Yecla). Stemmy, compost
aromas lead to a rubbery, tannic palate with
herbal, almost weedy flavors of baked berry. Caramel
and green notes show up late. Ole Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
CALIFORNIA WHITES
CHARDONNAY
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Talbott 2009 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). As
always with this vineyard, the wine is superripe, almost
overripe, with extracted pineapple, pear, nectarine and
peach flavors that are impossibly ripe. New oak adds
even richer vanilla, caramel and buttered toast notes.
Great acidity and a firm minerality fortunately balance
all this flamboyance, but it’s still a pretty powerful Chardonnay. Drink with rich lobster, scallop and tuna dishes.
—S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $40
92
De Loach 2009 Stubbs Vineyard Chardonnay (Marin County). Brisk acidity is the
best feature of this wine. It reflects the long hangtime of
the cool vintage. Lots of new French oak brings vanilla
and buttered toast to the equation, but it’s in keeping
with the power of the underlying pineapple and lemon
jam, pear and honey flavors. A decadent, flashy Chardonnay for drinking now with rich dishes, such as lobster and scallops. —S.H.
Price: $35
abv: 14.5%
92
Testarossa 2009 Brosseau Vineyard
Chardonnay (Chalone). Massively rich in
ripe pineapple, lemon curd, golden mango and white
peach flavors, this Chardonnay also shows plenty of new
oak influence in the vanilla and buttered toast layers. As
rich as it is, it’s balanced with zesty acidity and a refreshing minerality that has got to come from the dirt. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $41
91
Dierberg 2008 Chardonnay (Santa Maria
Valley). A beautiful Chardonnay marked by vibrant acidity, like a generous squeeze of lime, and elegant flavors of lemons, limes and pineapples, with a
hint of gooseberry and a smoky overlay of oak. Made in
a leaner, low alcohol but complex style, it’s a great wine
for shellfish. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $32
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90
Merryvale 2009 Chardonnay (Carneros).
De Loach 2009 La Reine Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). The modern, high
alcohol style marks this Chardonnay. It’s superripe in orange, pear and yellow apricot flavors, with an elaborate
coating of sweet new oak, with all of its caramel, honey
and butterscotch elaborations. Flamboyant, and ready
now with rich fare. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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De Loach 2009 OFS Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This finest selection
Chardonnay is a blend of the winery’s various vineyards.
It’s pretty oaky, with vanilla, buttered toast and honey
dominating, yet there are enough tropical fruit, orange,
pear and apricot flavors, and brisk acidity, to counterbalance the wood. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Dierberg 2009 Steel Chardonnay (Santa
Maria Valley). As rich as Chardonnay gets in
California, offering massive waves of pineapple jam,
apricots, tangerines and tropical notes of papayas and
guavas. Without oak, the fruit stars, along with tantalizing acidity. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $32
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Harbison Wines 2007 Le Bon Climat
Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). The fruit on this drily complex Chardonnay is
starting to fall out, giving an herb, cashew nut edge to
the pineapples, tangerines and apricots. The wine retains its sweet coating of buttered toast and vanilla honey. Will continue to dry and become earthier over the
next several years. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $75
89
Pietra Santa 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay
(Cienega Valley). Nothing but fruit in this
Chardonnay, and what pretty fruit it is. Really delicious
in pineapple, peach, lemon, lime, green melon and vanilla flavors, with fine acidity. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
Price: $18
abv: 13%
88
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Annika Vineyards 2009 Chardonnay
(Livermore Valley). For full review see page 9.
De Loach 2009 Hawk Hill Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). With notes
of buttered toast, honey and vanilla cream, this Chardonnay is overpowered by new oak barrel influences.
Beneath that are delicious fruit flavors of pineapples,
oranges, pears and apricots. Rich and flashy in the pop-
ular style, with good acidity, but the heavy hand of oak
limits the score. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
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Firestone 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Ynez
Valley). A fine, balanced Chardonnay, with
plenty of richness and sophistication, at a good price.
It shows satisfying complexities of ripe pineapples and
tangerines, accented with creamy lees and the vanilla
and buttered toast flavors of oak barrel fermentation.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $17
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Cartlidge & Browne 2009 Chardonnay
(North Coast). This wine doesn’t offer a lot
aromatically at first but opens nicely to lemon, lime and
vanilla flavors. The moderately priced, moderate in alcohol Chardonnay is bright and clean overall and a very
good value. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
87
De Loach 2009 Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Made in
the modern California style, new oak dominates this
Chardonnay. Even though unused French barrels accounts for only 30% of the blend, the aromas and flavors
of buttered toast, vanilla and caramel swamp what otherwise seems like a good, crisp, tropically fruited wine.
Earns an extra point for fine minerality, the result of its
pedigreed vineyard originis —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Dutton Estate 2009 Kyndall’s Reserve
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Flirts
with being overoaked, with a flood of buttered toast, vanilla and butterscotch notes that dominate. After that
some powerful flavors of Asian pears, tangerines and
pineapples kick in, brightened with acidity. Drink it
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $37
87
Gary Farrell 2009 Westside Farms Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Extravagantly rich and oaky, this Chardonnay detonates on the
palate with pineapple, lemon and orange jam, buttered
toast and vanilla cream flavors. Finishes honey sweet,
but a nice edge of acidity provides needed balance.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
87
Gary Farrell 2008 Starr Ridge Vineyard
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). With
savory acidity and a nice, dry finish, this three-year-old
Chardonnay tastes as fresh and rich as a brand-new release. It has pineapple, tangerine, lemon, lime and apricot flavors, enhanced with the vanilla and buttered toast
of oak. Drink now for sheer opulence. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.1%
87
Holman Ranch 2010 Estate Chardonnay
(Carmel Valley). Dry and acidic. If you’re
looking for a rich, opulent Chardonnay, go elsewhere.
This one’s citrusy and minerally, in the manner of an elegant Chablis. It offers a useful alternative to the modern, ultraripe, oaky style. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $28
WineMag.com | 49
87
Moone-Tsai 2009 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Tight acidity and minerality mark this
bone-dry Chardonnay. It’s stubborn now, offering hints
of tangerines, apricots and limes, with lots of new oak
and leesy cream and vanilla. Give it a few hours in a
decanter. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $50
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Parducci 2009 Chardonnay (Mendocino
County). For full review see page 12.
Round Hill 2010 Oak Free Chardonnay
(California). For full review see page 13.
Sea Mist 2010 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). A rich, ripe, oaky style of Chardonnay. Explosive in pineapple, tangerine, lemon and apricot jam flavors with buttered toast and honey. It’s almost
as sweet as a dessert wine. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $16
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Sonoma-Cutrer 2007 Les Pierres Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Dry and crisp,
with a fine, clean minerality, this Chardonnay is dominated by the vanilla and toast of oak. The underlying
wine shows pineapple, Asian pear and lime flavors. It’s
elegant, but a little thin. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
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Dutton Estate 2009 Dutton Palms Vineyard Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). Flashy and flamboyant, but smells and
tastes overoaked, with buttered toast, caramel and vanilla meringue notes swamping the underlying tangerine, lemon and mango fruit. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
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ecoVINO 2010 AstraPouch Chardonnay (Mendocino County). A 100%-organic
Chardonnay, stainless steel fermented and poured into
a handy-dandy, also certified-organic AstraPouch (1.5
liter). This easy-to-bring-on-a-picnic wine is clean, balanced and simply drinkable with a note of sweet grapefruit and pineapple. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10/1.5 L
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Manzanita Creek 2010 Foothill Vineyard
Chardonnay (Chalk Hill). A rich, oaky Chardonnay, fairly standard issue. It’s sweet and opulent in
vanilla, caramel, buttered toast, pineapple marmalade
and ripe pear flavors, in a creamy texture. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $32
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Oakville Ranch 2008 Chardonnay (Napa
Valley). Way too much oak on this wine, which
is dominated by buttered toast and butterscotch aromas
and flavors. Underneath all that you’ll find pineapples
and guavas. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $40
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Schug 2008 Heritage Reserve Chardonnay (Carneros). An earthy Chardonnay, with
herb-infused citrus and peach flavors, overlaid with
sweet oak. It’s soft and a little sweet and ready to drink
now. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
85
Artesa 2009 Estate Reserve Chardonnay
(Carneros). Like tasting toothpicks. New oak
accounts for just 40% of the aging, yet dominates with
caramel, vanilla and buttered toast. Somewhere below
are pineapple, pear, lime and honey flavors. Will appeal to Chardophiles who enjoy this New World style.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
85
Cache Creek Vineyards 2008 Chardonnay (Lake County). A well-priced, easy-tolike Lake County Chardonnay with lots of minerality
and lemony richness that starts to fall flat and sweet
on the finish. A little more acidity and a little less sugar
would have made this a better wine. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $12
85
Cinnabar 2008 Skyland Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). A ponderous Chardonnay, marked by excessive new oak flavors and the heavy hand of the winemaker. Shows pineapple, pear and tangerine flavors, but the barrel and
malolactic additions soften and sweeten them. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
85
J Vineyards & Winery 2009 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). With 35% new
French oak, this wine is dominated by the vanilla, buttered toast and caramel of wood. Underneath all that
are pineapple, lemon and pear fruit flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $28
85
85
J. Lohr 2009 October Night Chardonnay
(Arroyo Seco). For full review see page 9.
Round Hill 2010 Chardonnay (California). Most of the grapes come from the southern Central Valley, and they give ripe Chardonnay flavors of pineapples and pears. Oak, in whatever form it
was applied, dominates with vanilla, buttered toast and
caramel notes. If you like a little sweetness, it’s for you.
Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $8
85
Sharabella Wines 2009 Mery nel Cielo
Chardonnay (Lodi). Light, bright and balanced, this inexpensive Chardonnay is not complex and
could use a little oomph in there somewhere, but has
enough apple and pear flavor to get you through. —V.B.
abv: 13.03%
Price: $13
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wine, with caramelized new oak and sugary pineapple,
orange and apricot jam flavors, brightened with crisp
acidity. Will appeal to those who like this style. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
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Dutton Estate 2009 Warren’s Collection
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). The
poster child for too much oak. Swamps with buttered
toast, caramel, butterscotch and vanilla flavors that are
so sweet, it’s almost like a dessert wine. There’s lots of
tangerines, pineapples, apricots and apples, but those
barrel influences are too much. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $40
84
Manzanita Creek 2010 Elegance Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This is a
soft, simple Chardonnay, sugary sweet in vanilla, caramel, peach and pineapple jam and spice flavors. A good
coat of acidity provides needed balance. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25
84
Pure Cru 2009 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Takes the popular route, with caramelized
oak and ripe fruit that taste sweet. Almost like a dessert
wine, showing tangerine, vanilla and buttered toast flavors that pall after a sip or two. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
84
Robert Mondavi 2010 Private Selection
Chardonnay (California). For the price, a
pretty good Chardonnay. It’s dryish to sweet, with pineapple, orange, buttered toast and vanilla flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
84
Shipwreck 2009 Chardonnay (Carneros).
Sweet and candied, with pineapple and tangerine jam, vanilla cream and buttered toast flavors. Interestingly, the oak is from Hungary. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $15
84
Three Saints 2009 Chardonnay (Santa
Maria Valley). Thin in fruit but lopsided in
oak, with vanilla, toast and caramel flavors swamping
the pineapples and limes. Gets the basic Chardonnay
job done. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $20
83
Chardonnay (Central Coast). Simple and
sweet, with jammy pineapple, orange and apricot flavors leading to a soft, honeyed finish. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
Brophy Clark 2009 Chardonnay (Santa
Maria Valley). Combines brisk acidity and
minerality with orange, pineapple and honey flavors.
The oak overlay is sweet and heavy. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $13
Glen Ellen 2009 Proprietor's Reserve
Chardonnay (California). For full review
see page 14.
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Clos La Chance 2010 Chardonnay (Monterey County). This is a rich, fruity Chardonnay that’s sweet in pineapple, orange and buttered toast
flavors. A nice cut of acidity provides needed balance.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
84
De Loach 2009 Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). Tastes as sweet as a dessert
83
Starmont 2009 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). It’s all about oak in this Chardonnnay. Not
much going on beyond the obvious attempt at flattery
with buttered toast and vanilla flavors. Maybe a little
peach and pineapple candy thrown in for good measure. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
82
Cupcake 2010 Chardonnay (Central
Coast). A soft, frankly sweet wine, almost like
a dessert sipper, with orange, apricot and honey flavors.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
GEWÜRZTRAMINER
90
Gundlach Bundschu 2010 Estate Vineyard Gewürztraminer (Sonoma Coast).
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Novy 2010 Gewürztraminer (Russian
River Valley). If you like your white wines on
the sugary sweet side, this one’s for you. Shows classic
Gewürz spiciness, with ripe tangerine, apricot, peach
and honeysuckle flavors, and the acidity is just fine. The
alcohol is a modest 12.5%. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
85
Courtney Benham 2010 Gewürztraminer
(Santa Barbara County). For full review see
page 14.
MOSCATO/MUSCAT
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Nelson Family Vineyards 2009 Estate
Grown Orange Muscat (Mendocino). Another exuberant white from Mendocino’s Nelson Family, this Muscat is exceedingly fragrant, mostly of sweet
jasmine, peach and candied orange. Slightly sweet the
estate-grown white still has acid and would pair well
with something spicy, either Asian food, spiced shrimp
or barbecued oysters. —V.B.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $21
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Barefoot Bubbly NV Moscato Spumante
Champagne (California). A sweet style of
sparkling wine, with brisk acidity framing orange, lime,
vanilla and honey flavors. Nice with wedding cake, at a
good price. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $11
86
Little Black Dress 2010 Moscato (California). There’s a lot of residual sugar in this lowalcohol wine. It’s frankly sweet in orange, peach and vanilla flavors, but a crisp edge of acidity makes it finish
clean and vibrant. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 8%
Price: $11
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Martin & Weyrich 2010 Allegro Moscato
(California). America’s sweet tooth seems to
be returning, especially for Moscato, and this sweetie
satisfies for its orange soda, honey and vanilla cream flavors. —S.H.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $12
85
Barefoot NV Deliciously Sweet Moscato
(California). For full review see page 14.
PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO
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Pietra Santa 2010 Signature Collection
Amore Pinot Grigio (Cienega Valley).
There’s no oak on this wine, so it depends on the natural flavors of the grapes. And how good they are. Rich
and opulent in pineapples, lemons, oranges, honeysuckle flowers and vanilla, the wine is brightened with crisp
acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $24
86
Holman Ranch 2010 Pinot Gris (Carmel
Valley). A likable, easy to drink wine, totally
dry and brisk in acidity, with low alcohol. It has savory
flavors of lemons, limes, oranges and spices. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
85
Concannon 2010 Selected Vineyards Pinot Grigio (Central Coast). For full review
see page 14.
85
Luna 2009 Pinot Grigio (Napa Valley).
Off-dry and direct in citrus, apricot, green apple
and honey flavors, this easy-drinking wine is refreshed
with crisp acidity. Good now as a cocktail sipper. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $18
84
Big House 2010 The Birdman Pinot Grigio (California). A simple, easy wine to drink,
crisp and slightly sweet in orange, lime, peach and pear
flavors. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $10
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Bota Box 2010 Pinot Grigio (California).
Glen Ellen 2010 Proprietor‘s Reserve Pinot Grigio (California). For full review see
page 14.
84
Pietra Santa 2010 Estate Grown Pinot
Grigio (Cienega Valley). Sweetness marks
this wine, giving it a sugary finish. The flavors are jammy, of pineapples, oranges and apricots. A good hit of
acidity provides vital balance. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
83
Robert Mondavi 2010 Pinot Grigio (California). Overtly sweet, with a white sugar edge
to the citrus fruits, this is basically a dessert wine. Earns
extra credit for cleanness and crisp acidity. —S.H.
Price: $11
abv: 13.5%
RIESLING
89
Ludwig 2009 Sweetwater Vineyard Riesling (Monterey). Made in the style of a nice
German Riesling, with a little sweetness. It’s a fine wine,
showing classic varietal flavors of lychee, Asian pear,
orange, honeysuckle and white pepper, and a distinct
note of diesel. Crisp Monterey acidity makes the finish clean. Worth a search, but production was low. Best
Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
88
Grown Riesling (Mendocino). Nelson Family Vineyards is quietly making some mighty nice aromatic white wines, all estate-grown from their property.
This Riesling is opulent and fragrant with orange blossom and honey on the tongue, medium in weight with
a little residual sugar (officially off-dry) and 12.6% alcohol. —V.B.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $16
87
Little Black Dress 2010 Riesling (California). With only 11.5% alcohol, this Riesling has
some residual sugar, giving the tangerine and apricot
flavors a sweet finish. Fine, crisp acidity makes it clean
and brisk. A nice cocktail wine, and to drink with spicy
Asian shrimp or scallop dishes. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $11
86
Bota Box 2009 Riesling (California). For
SAUVIGNON BLANC
92
Brander 2010 Mesa Verde Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). This is
the best of Brander’s 2010 Sauvignon Blancs, and the
price is very good. It’s rich and stylish, especially considering it never saw any oak. Brisk in acids and minerals, it
offers flavors of citrus fruits, peaches and white pepper.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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Neal Family 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). Maybe it’s the 100% certified organic
grapes that make this wine so pure, or the fact that it
never saw oak. Probably both. The fruit stands front and
center, with flavors of lemons, limes, Asian pears, lemongrass and gooseberries. A superior Sauvignon Blanc,
at a great price, but production unfortunately was less
than 1,000 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $18
91
Hall 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley).
Another in a string of great Sauvignon Blancs
from Hall. The wine is richly textured in citrus, green
apple and peach flavors, with a zingy hint of gooseberry.
Acidity is crisp, and the finish is curiously dry and sweet
in honey at the same time. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $22
90
Cliff Lede 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). A fine, crisp Sauvignon Blanc, offering
lots of sweet citrus fruits, honey and spices that venture
into real complexity. The flavors of tangerines, Asian
pears, Meyer lemons and green apples are rich and
intricate, brightened by fine acidity. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $23
90
90
Sea Mist 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian
River Valley). For full review see page 8.
Selene 2010 Hyde Vineyards Sauvignon
Blanc (Carneros). A rare Sauvignon Blanc
from the Carneros region, this bottle is rich and full
WineMag.com | 51
bodied. Made with one-quarter new French oak, it has
a buttered toast and vanilla richness alongside ultraripe,
long hangtime pineapple, citron, lime and honeysuckle
flavors. A complex wine to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $28
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Benziger 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma County). A really pretty Sauvignon
Blanc, crisp in acidity and with a tangy mineral streak
that gives punch to the fruit. Rich in orange, Meyer
lemon and lime flavors, it finishes with a touch of honey.
A steal at this price. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Cartlidge & Browne 2009 Dancing Crow
Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). A great, inexpensive example of Lake County’s
prowess at Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is marked by
grapefruit and kiwi throughout and a creamy opulence
that should appeal to a wide range of palates and plates.
—V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
88
Madrigal 2010 Estate Sauvignon Blanc
(Calistoga). Brisk acidity gives this ripe, honeyed wine a much-needed hit of crispness. The flavors
are very rich, of tangerines, papayas and the sweet taste
of Meyer lemons. Delightful and satisfying for a cocktail
sipper, or with Thai, Vietnamese or Chinese pork and
chicken dishes. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $25
88
87
Parducci 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendocino County). For full review see page 11.
Amador Foothill Winery 2010 Sauvignon
Blanc (Shenandoah Valley of California).
Smelling sweet of candied orange and jasmine, this majority SB with about a quarter Sémillion blended in has
pleasing flavors and textures and is crisp, a nice effort
from the husband and wife winemaking team at this
longstanding Sierra Foothills stalwart. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
87
Holman Ranch 2010 Estate Sauvignon
Blanc (Carmel Valley). Bone dry and acidic,
this Sauvignon Blanc shows mouthwatering flavors of
lemons, limes, grapefruits and tart, sour gooseberries.
The alcohol is refeshingly low, a mere 12.4%. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
87
Longboard 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). With just a touch of oak
providing creamy vanilla flavors, this wine’s real stars are
the lemon, lime and tropical fruit flavors, which have
such a pretty minerality. It’s a little sweet, but refreshing
acidity balances that out. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
87
Novy 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian
River Valley). This is a very rich, fruity Sauvignon Blanc, offering waves of pineapple, guava, lime,
green apple and honeysuckle flavors. Crisp acidity gives
it a fine tartness. Nice for drinking now with spicy tapas
appetizers. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $19
87
Roth 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Alexander
Valley). A brisk, fruity Sauvignon Blanc that
flatters with rich flavors of pineapples, lemons, limes
and papayas. There’s a honeyed sweetness, but it’s basically dry. Easy to drink as a cocktail sipper. —S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $14
87
Whitehall Lane 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Napa Valley). If There’s any oak on this dry
wine, it doesn’t show, except for a touch of vanilla. The
flavors of lemons, limes, gooseberries, peaches and
green apples star, brightened with crisp acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
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C.G. di Arie 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
(Shenandoah Valley of California). A zippy
Sierra Foothills SB with pleasing grapefruit and a coating of minerals, this wine has length and lift. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $18
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Clos La Chance 2010 Estate Sauvignon
Blanc (Central Coast). Good price for a wine
that combines the acidity you want in a Sauvignon Blanc
with plenty of ripe tangerine, lime, green grass and vanilla flavors. There’s a honeyed finish, but the wine is
fundamentally dry. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
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Dancing Derby 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
(California). A good, off-dry useful wine for
drinking across the board with a wide variety of fare, or
by itself as a cocktail. It’s brisk and clean, with pleasant
citrus, apricot, spice and vanilla flavors. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $13
85
Sauvignon Blanc (Central Coast). For full
review see page 14.
85
Dutton Estate 2009 Cohen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). The
wine is unoaked, but tastes strangely strong in vanilla
and buttered toast. Whatever the aging regime, it’s jammy in apricots, tangerines and mangoes that finish sweet
and hot. —S.H.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $22
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Dutton Estate 2009 Kylie’s Cuvée Dutton
Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). Strong and punchy in orange, pineapple,
peach, apricot and green apple flavors, this unoaked
wine has a honeyed sweetness that makes it taste like
fruit punch. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $20
85
Merryvale 2010 Juliana Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Rather aggressive in green hay aromas and flavors that are acidic and
suggest ammonia, with richer notes of lemons, limes
and grapefruits. The wine is bone dry. If you like that
New Zealand gooseberry thing on steroids, it’s for you.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
85
Stephen Vincent 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
(Lake County). A perfectly simple, stainless-
steel fermented Lake County SB with tangy lemon and
lime notes, subtle at first. The finish falls off fast. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $12
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Avalon 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (California). Pretty green and unripe, but saved at the
last minute by some rich citrus, apple and honeysuckle
flavors. Finishes nice and dry and acidic. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $15
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Pedroncelli 2010 East Side Vineyards
Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Brisk
acidity is the best thing about this sweet Sauvignon
Blanc. It has jammy flavors of pineapples and oranges.
Bring on the sausages and ham. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $12
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Robert Mondavi 2010 Private Selection
Sauvignon Blanc (California). Off-dry, with
pineapple, lime, lemon, grapefruit and vanilla flavors,
fortunately balanced with crisp acidity. A decent, clean
and affordable white wine for cocktails. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
83
Starmont 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). Dry and crisp in acidity, with citrus flavors, but fundamentally unripe. It has a strong streak of
green chlorophyll, mint and ammonia that could charitably be described as gooseberry. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
VIOGNIER
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Rivino 2009 Estate, Schrader Ranch
Viognier (Mendocino). A very pretty Viognier from a small estate producer in Mendocino, this
wine is 100% Viognier with no oak and no malolactic
fermentation employed. Medium to almost full-bodied,
it has impressive texture, plush flavors of honeydew and
honey and a slightly sweet finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $24
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Sean Thackrey 2010 Noble Vineyard Lyra
Viognier (Knights Valley). A powerful, audacious Viognier, explosive in tropical fruit, vanilla, buttered toast and butterscotch flavors. All that richness is
balanced by crisp acidity and a fine minerality. Still, it’s a
big, honeyed wine for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $36
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Novy 2009 Viognier (Russian River Valley). Crunchy acidity marks this Viognier, giving it a palate brightness and making the apricot, tangerine, peach, pear and honeysuckle flavors finish drier
than they probably really are. It’s an exotic, rich wine
that drinks well with Vietnamese fare, or a peanut-starring Cambodian beef or chicken dish. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $19
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Perry Creek 2009 Altitude: 2401, Le Seducteur Viognier (El Dorado). Perry Creek
has done a nice job on this Viognier. It has a pretty, very
floral nose, and its aromatics make it inviting throughout, a small percentage of Marsanne and Roussanne
coming through. Medium-bodied, it just finishes a percentage too sweet to taste truly balanced. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $20
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Adelaida 2009 The Glenrose Vineyard
Viognier (Paso Robles). Sweet peach, mango, papaya, citrus fruit and honey flavors mark this opulent young wine. It brims with acidity, yet is very high
in alcohol. Best now with exotic, Asian-inspired spicy
dishes. —S.H.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $30
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Jorian Hill 2009 Viognier (Santa Ynez Valley). Plenty of ripe, luxurious fruit and flowers
in this Viognier, accented with brisk acidity. Floods the
mouth with tangerine, pineapple, lemon, lime, honeysuckle and vanilla flavors that finish fairly sweet and sugary. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
SPARKLING WINE
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Korbel NV Brut (California). For full review
see page 12.
OTHER WHITES
91
91
Calcareous 2009 Viognier-Marsanne
(Paso Robles). For full review see page 6.
Von Strasser 2010 Estate Vineyard
Grüner Veltliner (Diamond Mountain).
Von Strasser, which was early to introduce this variety to
California, continues to dominate the scores. The wine
nicely combines a minerally dryness with sweet apricot,
lime, peach, honey and vanilla flavors, finished with a
fine scour of acidity. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
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Vina Robles 2010 White4 (Paso Robles).
Beckmen 2009 Le Bec Blanc (Santa Ynez
Valley). A big, full-bodied, extracted wine.
Although it’s dry, it’s enormous in tangerines, lemons,
peaches, yellow apricots and golden mangoes, finished
with zesty spices. Lots of acidity, too, which makes it
mouthwatering. Strikes an interesting pose midway between Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay. —S.H.
Price: $18
abv: 13.9%
89
Bokisch 2010 Terra Alta Vineyard Albariño (Clements Hills). Bokisch remains a
small, family-owned brand to watch out of Lodi, a husband and wife team devoted to Spanish and Portuguese
varieties they mostly grow themselves. This light, refreshing Albarino has green apple and pear to spare and
lovely, dry acidity, its Catalan roots evident in the wine’s
overall Old-World style. It screams for seafood. —V.B.
abv: 12%
Price: $16
89
C.G. di Arie 2009 Verdelho (Shenandoah
Valley of California). Crisp and lemony with
a full, honeyed and rich finish, this Portuguese white
made out of the Sierra Foothills screams for seafood. If
you’ve never tasted a California Verdelho, this would be
a good place to start. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $18
89
Cinnabar 2010 Mercury Rising Blanc
(California). Brisk acidity, dryness and intense
citrus fruits mark this blend of mostly Sauvignon Blanc,
with a little Picpoul Blanc and Grenache Blanc. The orange, lime and green grass flavors call for spicy Asian
fare. There’s no oak on this delightfully clean, stimulating wine. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $20
89
Elyse 2009 L’Ingenue, Naggiar Vineyard
(Sierra Foothills). This delightful wine is a
blend of 36% Roussanne, 35% Viognier, 20% Marsanne
and 9% Grenache Blanc. After about a year in French
oak, the result is well-balanced, minerally, viscous with
a lengthy finish and notes of fig, pear and peach. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $28
89
Kiamie 2009 White Kuvée Viognier-Roussanne (Paso Robles). A welcome hit of crisp
acidity is just what this slightly sweet wine needs. It’s
rich and complex in tangerine, apricot, kiwi and honey
flavors, with a sweet coat of oak. Drink as an exotic alternative to an oaky Chardonnay. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
88
Vesper Vineyards 2009 Alcala, Highland
Hills Vineyard Marsanne-Roussanne (Ramona Valley). A very fragrant, dark-honey MarsanneRoussanne blend from Ramona Valley, an AVA within
San Diego County. The wine’s blend is 55% Marsanne,
45% Roussanne, a well-integrated co-mingling of the
two with jasmine and apricot flavors and a bit of a bite
on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $28
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Bello Family Vineyards 2009 Marsanne
(Napa Valley). A rich, ripe, sweet wine,
marked by upfront orange and apricot flavors, welloaked, and finished with pleasant acidity. With the
weight of a Chardonnay, it’s a direct wine to drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $38
87
Blue Nomad 2010 Bright Light (California). Made from Chardonnay, Albariño and
Gewürztraminer, this is a clean white wine, brisk in
acidity. It has slightly sweet flavors of tangerines, apricots, peaches and honey. A nice, versatile wine, especially with today’s ethnic fare, ranging from Mexican to
Vietnamese. Best Buy. —S.H.
Price: $12
abv: 14.1%
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De Loach 2009 Pinot Blanc (Russian River Valley). A Chardonnay-like wine, but more
citrusy, with tangerine, lemon and mineral flavors. Oak
brings sweeter complications of vanilla and buttered
toast, while crisp acidity makes it all fresh and clean.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2010 Capp
Vineyard Malvasia Bianca (Suisun Valley). Briny, rich and layered, this is an interesting white
from a Russian River Valley-based producer who is
sourcing Malvasia Bianca in this case from a vineyard
in the Suisun Valley, inland and east of the Napa Valley
on the way to Sacramento. Dry and crisp, the typically Greek varietal in this version has hints of honey and
nuts and dried fruit. Drink it young. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
87
Tablas Creek 2010 Vermentino (Paso
Robles). Bone dry and crisp in mouthwatering acidity, this unoaked, cocktail-style wine has citrus,
white flower, white pepper and mineral flavors. With
low alcohol, it’s a fine starter for the evening. —S.H.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $27
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Incognito 2010 White (Lodi). A relatively
small-production offering from Michael David
at 3,600 cases, this white wine blend is quaffable, fullbodied and slightly sweet. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
83
Cosentino 2008 The Novelist Meritage
(California). A clumsy wine that aims for
white Bordeaux in style and falls far short. There’s plenty of oak and lees, but the underlying wine is thin and
disappointing in citrus flavor. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
DESSERT WHITES
92
Stephen & Walker 2009 Late-Harvest
Chardonnay (Mendocino Ridge). For full
review see page 6.
89
Heringer 2009 Late-Harvest Chardonnay (Clarksburg). In nose, this dark-golden
late-harvest Chardonnay smells almost like a traditional
French cider, a sentiment that carries through in the
flavor, though this wine takes on much richer, sweeter
tones. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 11%
Price: $13/375 ml
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Naggiar 2009 Estate Grown Viognier
(Sierra Foothills). This late-harvest Viognier looks like a still wine as it comes out of the bottle,
exploding with honey and wildflowers on the nose. Its
fruitiness is restrained somewhat and would stand out
paired with a crème brûlée—though on its own, the alcohol is overpowering. —V.B.
Price: $28/500 ml
abv: 15.8%
ROSÉS
90
Toad Hollow 2010 Eye of the Toad Dry
Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). For
88
Amador Foothill Winery 2010 Rosato
Sangiovese (Amador County). Dark pink
in color this rosato, or rosé of Sangiovese, is a delight,
WineMag.com | 53
fruity and refreshing with some substance behind it and
a touch of spice on the finish. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
88
Blackbird Vineyards 2010 Arriviste Rosé
(Napa Valley). A good, dry rosé, as a blush
should be, with raspberry, herb, vanilla and spice flavors, backed up with fine acidity. Perfect for salty
smoked meats. Serve as an appetizer with ham, sausages, bacon-flavored tapas. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
88
Jelly Jar 2010 Rosé (Lake County). Lightraspberry in color, this rosé is very pretty, with
lilting acidity and pleasing flavors of watermelon and
strawberry all in an inviting little package. —V.B.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $16
87
Clos du Lac 2010 Chalaye Rosé (El Dorado County). Dark salmon in color, this is a
nicely balanced, easy-drinking rosé with good flavor and
light alcohol (13.3%). Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $10
87
Maysie Cellars 2010 Masut Vineyard
Sangiovese (Mendocino County). Maysie
is a small Berkeley-based producer aiming to shake up
the world with its take on single-vineyard Italian varietals and this rosato from certified-organic Sangiovese
grapes is a great start. It’s refreshing and light and dry
as a bone. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
87
Prêt a Boire 2010 Rosé (Napa Valley). A
blend of Syrah and Grenache, this may be the
most expensive rosé in California. It’s a good wine, dry
and crisp, although rather full-bodied for a rosé, with
pleasantly complex orange zest, strawberry, vanilla, herb
and spice flavors. Nice now with cured meats and sausages, or a rich fish stew. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $75
87
Tablas Creek 2010 Rosé (Paso Robles).
Pretty dark for a rosé, and heavy in mouthfeel,
with melted raspberry and strawberry jam flavors, sprinkled with cinnamon and vanilla. A blend of Mourvèdre,
Grenache and Counoise, it lacks zestiness, but is so fullbodied, you can substitute it for Pinot Noir with a summer salmon or lamb barbecue. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $27
86
Pali 2010 Sunset Rosé (California-Oregon). A sound, useful blush wine, grown from
75% California Grenache and 25% Oregon Pinot Noir.
It’s totally dry, with a brisk cut of acidity, and pleasantly clean flavors of strawberries, orange zest and vanilla.
—S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $17
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Pedroncelli 2010 Dry Rosé of Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley). Good price for a dry summer blush wine for drinking with barbecue, sandwiches
or just about anything easy. With berry and spice flavors,
it has a nice bite of acidity. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
86
Red Truck 2009 Pink Truck Rosé (California). Hard to say if this is a dessert wine or
a rosé, because it’s fairly sweet. Let’s call it a rosé. And a
pretty one it is, with savory orange, raspberry and vanilla
flavors, balanced with acidity. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $9
delicious now, it makes you wonder why you should
even risk more than six years in the cellar. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $175
96
Diamond Ridge Vineyards NV 2 Jakes
Rosé (California). A good deal for a dry rosé
that’s almost red like a light Pinot Noir. Very low in alcohol at 12.5%, it’s light throughout with layers of peach
and grenadine. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
Sequoia Grove 2007 Rutherford Bench
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). A stunningly beautiful Cabernet, made from
the estate vineyard of all five classic Bordeaux varieties.
Softly tannic and dry, it shows lush flavors of green olives, black cherries, anise and smoky oak that swirl into
a long, impressive finish. Drinkable now for sheer beauty, it will develop over the next decade. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
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Naggiar 2010 Estate Rosé (Sierra Foothills). Pretty dark, almost plum-like in color,
this is a blend of 76% Grenache and 25% Syrah from
an estate-grown vineyard in the Foothills. Lots of watermelon in aroma and flavor, the wine finishes slightly
sweet, reminiscent of a Shirley Temple. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
82
Glen Ellen 2010 White Zinfandel (California). A little on the sweet, soft side. The flavors
are of orange tea, honey and cinnamon. —S.H.
abv: 10%
Price: $10/1.5 L
80
Cedar Mountain 2008 Reserve Scarlet
Syrah Rosé (Livermore Valley). Really not
sure why 2008 is the current release or why it needs to
be over 15% alcohol but the alcohol is definitely what
defines this wine. It’s oddly dark in color and equally
strange on the nose. —V.B.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $17
CALIFORNIA REDS
CABERNETS & BLENDS
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Von Strasser 2008 Reserve (Diamond
Mountain). As good as the winery’s other 2008s
are, this wine raises the stakes. It’s bone dry, deeply tannic and marked by classic varietal flavors of blackberries, cassis and dark chocolate, with sweet, smoky oak.
Almost a food group in itself for its complexity, it’s dazzling now for its sheer luxurious deliciousness, yet is
guaranteed to develop over at least the next 10 years.
Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $125
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Merryvale 2008 Profile (Napa Valley). For
Moone-Tsai 2008 Cor Leonis Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The question concerning this wine isn’t whether or not it’s very good—it
is. Instead, it’s about ageability. Made from 100% Cabernet grown in two very different places, Pritchard Hill
and Coombsville, it’s dry and refined. Floods the mouth
with blackberry, blueberry, cassis, dark chocolate, spice
and new oak flavors whose richness is tempered by a
firm minerality. Really fabulous in all respects, but so
Vineyard 7&8 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). For full review
see page 3.
95
D.R. Stephens 2008 Moose Valley Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
Here’s one of the most ageworthy wines of the vintage.
A 100% Cabernet, its grapes come from a vineyard in
eastern St. Helena, off the Silverado Trail. Cab’s usual
blackberries and cassis are there, along with classic elements of green olives and herbs, with a funkiness that
adds an umami tang. Very finely constructed, very complex, spicy and delicious. Give it six years, at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $125
95
Maybach 2008 Weitz Vineyard Materium
Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). A powerful, concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon. Impressive for
the sheer density of fruit, namely blackberries, cherries
and chocolate, accented with buttery, caramelized new
oak perfectly in keeping with the wine’s volume. The
tannins are soft, sweet and intricate. Despite the richness, There’s a firm minerality that adds to the structure
and grounds it. So opulently delicious, you could drink
it now, and it should develop in the bottle over the next
six years, at least. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $125
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Moone-Tsai 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 3.
D.R. Stephens 2008 Walther River Block
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For
94
Harbison Wines 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). So deliciously ripe and
sweet, you can drink it now, especially with a great
steak. Flatters with raspberry, cherry and blackberry flavors, accented with the vanilla and caramel of new oak,
and wrapped into soft, ripe tannins. Made in the modern style, it’s a decadent wine whose pure, refined tannins testify to their Napa origin. Yet it will develop over
the next ten years. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $90
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Jarvis 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Sequoia Grove 2007 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
The vineyard is up on Atlas Peak, in the eastern part
of Napa Valley, and is source to increasingly great Cabernets. Hard mountain tannins and incredibly concentrated blackberry fruit mark the wine, which is blended with a little Cabernet Franc that brings softness and
cherries. Stunningly beautiful now, but a wine you want
to try over the next decade to see how it changes. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $90
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Von Strasser 2008 Agira Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). A
near replica of the ’07, which was a fabulous wine that
required cellaring. So does this ’08. It’s layered and
complex in deep, black and blue berry and fruit essence, especially the ripest blackberries, yet with tantalizing hints of earth, minerals and the green olive note
you often find in the best cool-climate Cabernets. The
tannins are young and profound. Need time. Give it until after 2014 to begin to come around. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $80
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Von Strasser 2008 Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). A
big, hard, dry Cabernet whose mountain tannins need
quite some time to resolve. Right now they’re tough as
nails, although the blackberry fruit is so brilliant and intense, it punches right through. Give this dramatic wine
at least six years, and it could well develop beyond the
next decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $70
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Von Strasser 2008 Post Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). A
gorgeous Cabernet, elaborately rich in blackberry, cherry, cassis and sweet vanilla oak flavors, yet the finish is
thoroughly dry. Those famous Diamond Mountain tannins are firm, but sweetly ripe and elegant. Impressive,
and drinkable now for sheer lusciousness, but should
develop over the next eight years. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $80
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Hestan 2007 Stephanie Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4.
Jarvis 2007 Lake William (Napa Valley).
Merryvale 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
Merryvale 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (St.
Helena). For full review see page 4.
Redmon 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Lots of depth and complexity
in this single-vineyard Cabernet. It’s dramatic for the
layers of fruit, veering toward red berries, cherries and
cocoa, and for the intense tannin structure. Feels vital
and important and, above all, ageable. Give it a good six
years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $69
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Sequoia Grove 2007 Lamoreaux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
The vineyard is in the southerly oak Knoll District, and
the wine shows the region’s coolness in a fine, dry structure of acids and tannins. It’s deeply flavored in blackberries, cassis, dark chocolate and herbs. This is a gorgeous, rich, sumptuous wine, but it needs time. Hold
until after 2014, and it could go for far longer. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $90
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Vineyard 7&8 2008 7 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Spring Mountain). For full review see page 5.
Von Strasser 2008 Sori Bricco Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). Always an intricately built wine, exotic and ripe.
Right now, it’s a contradiction. So silky in the mouth, it
could almost be a Pinot Noir, except it has Cab’s tannins, and the blackberry and cherry fruit has a powerful intrusion of cassis. Those tannins are notable. They
intrude at every step of the way, suggesting time in the
cellar. Six years seems barely adequate, ten years more
likely. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $80
93
Waterstone 2007 Study in Blue (Napa
Valley). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Syrah and Merlot stands up well against far more expensive Napa Valley cult Cabs. It’s softly tannic, rich
and decadently delicious in blackberry and cherry pie
filling, licorice, chocolate, baking spice and sandalwood
flavors. Gorgeous, dry and generous, it’s a wine to drink
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
maker Philippe Melka has made the tannins rich, but
approachable, making the blackberry, blueberry and
cherry pie flavors instantly loveable. Sweet in the finish,
this flashy, Merlot-based wine is best now. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $65
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Nickel & Nickel 2008 Branding Iron Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For full review
see page 5.
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Nickel & Nickel 2008 C.C. Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full review
see page 5.
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Nickel & Nickel 2008 Martin Stelling Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For
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Nickel & Nickel 2008 Quarry Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full
review see page 5.
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Nickel & Nickel 2008 Rock Cairn Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For
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PureCoz 2007 Red Wine (Napa Valley).
Mitch Cosentino’s new venture, and he scores
bigtime. The wine is soft and very satisfying, showing
voluptuous blackberry, cherry, cocoa, bacon and spice
flavors. The tannins are pure velvet. A beautiful, impressive wine, with a little Sangiovese added to the Cabernet-based Bordeaux blend. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $65
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Boyanci 2007 Red Wine (Napa Valley).
The blend is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with
Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The
grape sourcing is pedigreed, from Stagecoach Vineyard
on Atlas Peak and the adjacent Pritchard Hill. The wine
is dry and very tannic, yet strangely sweet. The cherry
and raspberry flavors have a pie-filling richness, but also
an acidic tug. New oak shows up in the form of vanilla
and crème brûlée. Hard to tell where it’s going. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $130
Camiana 2007 Blue Hall Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). An
old-fashioned Howell Mountain Cabernet, bone dry,
big and hard in tannins and intensely concentrated in
Cabernet fruit. It’s all about blackberries and cassis,
with sweet oak. Needs time. Better after 2014. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
Price: $59
abv: 14.5%
Dominus 2008 Red Wine (Napa Valley).
Another fine Dominus, dry, well-structured and
ageworthy. Lacks the flashiness of the dramatic 2007,
but is still ripe and rich enough to drink now, and should
develop over the next six years. Rewards for the depth
of blackberries, cassis, blueberries and cedar, wrapped
into plush tannins. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $149
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Moone-Tsai 2008 Hillside Blend (Howell
Mountain). It used to be that Howell Mountain meant big, hard tannins, but no more. Wine-
Von Strasser 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Diamond Mountain). A grand Cabernet,
richly tannic and dry, that shows off the Von Strasser
style. The wine is intense in blackberry, cassis and oak
flavors that grow more interesting in the glass. Those
tannins are hard, but negotiable now for their fine ripeness. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $50
Benziger 2007 Three Blocks (Sonoma
County). An interesting wine that you might
think was a big, rich Pinot Noir if you tasted it blind.
It’s silky and medium-bodied, with soft tannins and exotic flavors of cherries, currants, cola, red licorice and
oak. The actual wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot. A bit tough and acidic now, it wants time
in the cellar. Try after 2013, for starters. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Price: $49
abv: 14.5%
Fuse 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). For full review see page 6.
J. Keverson 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Dry Creek Valley). A fine Cabernet, more elegant than many more rustic Cabs that come out of this
hot, interior Sonoma County valley. The wine is fully
dry, but the blackberry fruit is sweetly strong and spicy,
and the tannins are wonderfully fine. Drink over the
next five years. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $34
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Tierra Roja 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville). Give this wine time in the bottle.
At the age of four years, it’s still dry and hard in tannins, with a lockdown mouthfeel. Shows a good core of
blackberries, cherries and cassis, with a rich oak overlay. The tannins, acids and a firm minerality suggest extended aging. Hold until 2013, at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $120
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Boyanci 2008 InSpire Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A big, sweet, soft Napa
Cab, made in the modern style. It means to dazzle with
blackberry and blueberry jam, sweet new oak and chocolate flavors, and does. Too soft for aging, but delicious
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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Hall 2008 Jack’s Masterpiece Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Solidly in the Hall
style of voluptuous, stylish Cabernets, rich in fruit and
softly sweet. With a flood of blackberries, cassis and
chocolate, it’s intricately structured with finely ground
tannins that give a sting of astringency. Probably best
consumed soon with rich beef dishes. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $90
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Hestan 2006 Meyer Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review
see page 7.
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Kiamie 2006 Kiame Kuvée (Paso Robles). A really good red wine that shows how
well Paso Robles does with these oddball blends. In this
case, it’s Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot and Zinfandel. Each variety contributes something and the result is fulfilling. With a fine structure, it shows ripe flavors of cherries, raspberries, cocoa, spices and oak, and
is ready to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $38
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Madrigal 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). At about three years of age,
this Cab is very dry and very tannic. Yet it feels balanced and elegant, and the flavors are complex, offering
waves of blackberries, cassis, spicy mushu plum sauce
and smoky cedar. Those tannins need big, rich meats for
balance. Drink over the next 5 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $32
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Nickel & Nickel 2008 Kelham Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For full
review see page 8.
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Selene 2008 Dead Fred Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is an
ultrarich, ripe Cabernet, marked by jammy blackberry,
blueberry and cherry fruit flavors, with a milk chocolate
sweetness and soft, intricate tannins. Made in the soft,
modern style, it’s best over the next six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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Sequoia Grove 2007 Morisoli Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Lots
of tannins in this wine, which comes from this fine vineyard in Rutherford. Feels tough and resistant now, de-
spite a gigantic core of dark chocolate, blackberries and
black cherry sour candy. This big, sturdy Cab needs
time. Hold until after 2013, for starters. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $90
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Star Lane Vineyard 2006 Astral Cabernet
Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). The grapes
come from the winery’s highest elevation vineyard, in
the Happy Canyon area, and the variety is Cabernet
Sauvignon, which isn’t revealed on the label, for some
reason. The wine is big and tannic, with brooding blackberry, currant, smoked meat and oak flavors. Acidity is
quite high. Now-2014. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $80
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Hall 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond
Mountain). Good as it is, this Cab is tough and
gritty, lacking the usual Hall voluptuousness despite a
complex core of blackberries, currants, soy and minerals. Maybe it’s those notoriously hard Diamond Mountain tannins. Put it in the cellar for at least six years and
try again. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $110
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Hestan 2007 Stephanie (Napa Valley).
Based on Cabernet Sauvignon, this Bordeaux
blend is made in a drink-me-now style of decadent luxury. It may lack some levels of complexity, but is explosive in blackberry, cherry, cassis, milk chocolate, anise
and sweet, smoky oak flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $60
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Paul Dolan 2009 Made With Organically Grown Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendocino County). For full review see page 9.
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Robledo 2007 El Rey Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Hills Lake County). Another
lovely Cab out of Red Hills Lake County, with nice tart
cherry and dusty flavors, this wine is still quite tannic
with good structure to age. The Sonoma-based Robledo
family is making more and more wine from Red Hills,
this one a tribute to patriarch Reynaldo "El Rey" Robledo. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $38
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Turnbull 2008 Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Big and awkward now,
with explosive blackberry and currant flavors. Feels all
jumbly, with the oak sticking out, and dry tannins that
scour across the palate and finish astringently numb.
Old fashioned in its way, but could blossom after seven
or eight years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $100
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Von Strasser 2008 Spaulding Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). This has been one of Von Strasser’s easier, more
accessible Cabs, despite its origins on Diamond Mountain, which usually produces notoriously hard tannins.
The ’08, like the ’07, is soft and sweet in blackberry
and toasted oak flavors. Drink it over the next six years.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $80
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Bello Family Vineyards 2008 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A dry, smooth,
velvety wine, rich in blackberry, cherry, spice and oak
flavors. Feels luxurious and refined, with great tannins.
There’s a certain funkiness, like bacon, you’ll either like
or won’t. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $95
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Blackbird Vineyards 2008 Arise (Napa
Valley). This bottling has been variable over
the years. The ’08 plays it safe, offering a pleasantly
rich, tannic Bordeaux-style blend with blackberry, cherry, currant, herb and cedar flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $50
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Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Coast). For
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Concannon 2008 Conservancy Cabernet
Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). Fruit-forward with big but managed tannins and structure. Concannon has done a nice job here with its Conservancy
Cab, smelling of sweet cranberry relish, almost herbal on the nose like a Cab Franc (and its Central Coast
Cab), and finishing with plenty of vanilla. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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J. Lohr 2007 Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (St. Helena). For full review see
page 9.
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Kiamie 2007 Kiame Kuvée (Paso Robles). Fully resolved for drinking now, this
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petite Verdot and
Zinfandel is soft and delicious. It shows plenty of berries, cherries, currants, chocolate, anise, pepper and
dusty Indian spices, and finishes a little sweet in alcohol. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $38
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McGrail 2007 A Jo Elet Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). A nice, firm and
good Livermore Cabernet with structured tannins and
good bones, length and a roundedness that works. Black
currant and nutmeg flavors prevail. The wine spent a
while in all new Hungarian oak. McGrail is also a vineyard source to look for on other Livermore producer’s
bottles. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $40
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Peters Family 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Sonoma Mountain). Very ripe and flattering,
with blackberry and cherry jam fruit that finishes with
that curious combination of dry and sweet. The tannins
of this mountain, located in central Sonoma County, are
tough. Should hold over the years, without developing
complexity. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $55
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Schug 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). Lots to like in this dry, softly
tannic young Cabernet, especially the fruit. Brims with
ripe cherry, blackberry and plum flavors, with a smoky,
sweet coating of oak. It’s ready to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
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Smith-Madrone 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). A tough wine to
like right now. It’s tightly wound and hard in tannins
and bone dry, which is the winery’s house style. These
are grapes that were picked early, before they shriveled.
The flavors veer between blackberries and currants to
anise and pepper. The gamble is in the cellar. Try after
2013. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $45
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Sodaro 2007 Felicity Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A bit too soft, but dry,
rich and dramatic in its own way, with layers of blackberries, currants and oak. If the winemaker will build
in a firmer structure, this Cabernet’s score will soar in
future vintages. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Wellington 2006 Handal-Denier Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley).
This is a good, rich, 100% Cabernet for drinking now
with fancy meats. It’s dry and smooth in tannins, with
blackberry, cherry, cassis, Dr. Pepper cola, herb and cedar flavors that finish a little sweet. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $30
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Wellington 2006 Victory Reserve (Sonoma County). Already throwing some sediment, which is perfectly okay so don’t be alarmed. The
flavors are rich and varied, of blackberries, black currants, cola, orange zest, cedar and exotic spices, and the
finish is nice and dry. Could be a bit firmer in texture,
though. Best now. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
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Damian Rae 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). A good, rich, fairly standard
Napa Cabernet, brimming with ripe blackberry, cherry and raspberry flavors, enhanced with sweet, vanilla-scented smoky oak. Pretty good stuff, but it’s not an
ager. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $59
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Lava Cap 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (El Dorado). Closed at first, this El Dorado Cab slowly reveals minty and savory aromas, the
wine’s flavors also more on the austere and savory side
of things, a touch of blackberry and cherry finally coming through. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Line 39 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (North
Coast).For full review see page 10.
Nelson Family Vineyards 2007 Top Row
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendocino). Estate-grown, this Cab from the best rows within
the family’s Clara Vineyard, is brick red and aromatically
brickish as well, as well as smelling of black olive, cherry
and cola spice, a coating of chocolate on its finish. Let
it breathe. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $42
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Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2007 Quintessential Meritage (North Coast). This blend
of all five Bordeaux varieties has cranberry, plum, sage
and herb throughout and is good, with a medium-body
and tart finish. Aged almost two years in nearly all new
French oak it’s fairly light on its feet. Much of the blend
(27%) is Alexander Valley Cabernet, the Merlot is from
Sonoma Valley and the Cab Franc from Dry Creek.
The Malbec and Petit Verdot, earthy and leathery both,
come from Clear Lake. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $48
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Valley of the Moon 2008 Cuvée de la Luna
Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County).
Mainly Cabernet, with some Merlot and Malbec added
for depth and complexity, this rich, dry wine has jammy blackberry, dark chocolate and oak flavors. It’s compromised by sharp acidity that rattles the palate. Drink
soon. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Wellington 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Sonoma County). A good buy in a Cabernet that’s dry and elegant enough to pair with a great
steak, chop or roast. It has classic blackberry, black currant, herb and cedar flavors, and is soft enough to drink
now. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Whitehall Lane 2008 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The tannins on
this Cabernet, which contains 5% Merlot, are tough and
gritty. The blackberry, currant and smoky oak flavors are
just fine. The question with such an awkward texture in
youth is if the wine will resolve with age. In this case,
probably not, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Ripe and sweet in
cherry, chocolate and oak flavors, this Cabernet scores
high in sheer deliciousness. It’s a bit simple in structure,
though, and unlikely to age, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $95
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). At nearly five
years of age, this wine is mellowing nicely. It’s smooth
and dry and easy to like for the wealth of berry, cherry,
mocha and oak flavors. Should hang in there for another
few years. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $85
Cartlidge & Browne 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (North Coast). Another great buy
from C&B, who this time have made a subtle, concentrated and rich Cabernet with good blackberry and
woody, oaky flavors and a big mouthfeel. Steak, anyone?
Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
Newton 2008 Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A soft, fleshy wine
to drink now. It has a fancy mouthfeel, with a firm hit
of tannins and acidity, and lush flavors of blackberries,
cherries, cola and spices. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
Niner 2007 Fog Catcher (Paso Robles). A
Bordeaux-style blend based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this wine is soft and sweetly luxurious. It offers upfront blackberry, black cherry,
red currant, licorice and sandalwood flavors, with a nice
edge of tannins. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $58
Oakville Ranch 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made from the estate
ranch in the eastern hills of Oakville, this is a soft, plush,
sweetly ripe Cabernet. It has jammy, dessert pastry flavors of blackberries, cherries and raspberries, along
with plenty of smoky new oak, and very high alcohol
gives it a glyceriney sweetness. —S.H.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $68
Schug 2007 Heritage Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). Here’s a
soft, sweet Cabernet, rich in blackberries, cherries, cassis and chocolate, with a spicy finish. It shows plenty of
ripe varietal character, and is ready to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
Sodaro 2007 Estate Blend (Napa Valley).
Soft and sweet, with melted jam flavors of raspberry, cherry and blackberry flavors, and plenty of caramelized, vanilla-scented oak. Delicious, but lacks structural integrity. The blend is based on Cabernet Sauvignon. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
Whitehall Lane 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Drink this ripely sweet
Cabernet now. It’s very rich in blackberry, red currant,
cocoa and caramelized oak flavors, wrapped into firm,
fine tannins. Will do just fine with a nice steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
Windsor Sonoma 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). A big, voluptuous
Cabernet, brimming with ripe blackberries, plums, mocha, cedar, and a chewy, tangy meaty taste, like beef
jerky. Solid, soft and easy to drink. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $30
Ahlgren 2007 Bates Ranch Cabernet
Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains). Lots
of berry, cherry and currant fruit in this dry Cabernet,
which is drinking nice and mellow. It could be more
concentrated, as it falls off in the finish, turning bitter.
—S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
Clos La Chance 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Coast). Lots of ripe blackberry and cherry fruit flavors in this dry wine, with the
nervy acidity of the Central Coast and Cabernet’s hefty
tannins. It’s a solid, rustic wine to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
Cobblestone 2006 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This soft, sweet,
oaky Cabernet will appeal to those who like the New
World style. It’s as puffy as a dessert concoction, with
cherry, chocolate, nougat and cinnamon spice flavors,
and is ready to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $69
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Edge 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). A bit on the soft, overripe side, with
currant, licorice, cherry, cocoa and oak flavors. But it’s
dry, and the tannins are fancy. Drink it fresh out of the
bottle with a grilled steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $20
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Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma-NapaLake). Sweet and jammy in extracted blackberry and
cherry fruit, with big tannins and a sting of acidity. Fairly rustic for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $23
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Lobo 2008 Wulff Vineyards Cabernet
Sauvignon (Oak Knoll). A flashy, soft Cabernet for drinking now. It’s a little on the sweet side,
with raspberry and cherry tart, brown sugar, chocolate
and cinnamon spice flavors. Not an ager, so drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
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Morro Bay 2008 Split Oak Estates Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A fine, soft-tannined Cab made from Lodi Rules grapes missing some
body in the midpalate, but otherwise fair for the $12
price. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $12
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on this dry, fruity Cabernet tastes strong and unnatural.
It sticks out like a sore thumb, making the blackberry
pie flavors overly tart. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $18
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Cache Creek Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake County). This Cab is
minty and leathery, with overwhelming vanilla-y tannins
at first—maybe from the time spent in all new American oak—that mellow with opening, giving it a soft
mouthfeel. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
Chateau Chevalier 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). This is a Cabernet
to drink now for its soft, enjoyable flavors of blackberry
and cherry pie. It tastes sweet but finishes nicely dry,
with a scour of tannins. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
Earthquake 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Lodi). There are people out there who will
love this big, blustery Cab, with its powerful fruit and
oak, its bacon fat reminiscent of other high-octane reds
under the Earthquake label. And there are those who
will not like this wine at all, the alcohol all that will register and remain. This wine does not tread lightly. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $26
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Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2008 Clone
337 Mazzocco-Bevill Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This is a soft, sweet, almost Porty wine, with raisin, chocolate and blackberry
flavors. It has a long, spicy finish, and is best now with
lusty stews and barbecue. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
Kendall-Jackson 2008 Vintner’s Reserve
Summation (California). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel offers lots to like
at the price. It’s soft, rich and finely tannic, with savory
berry and spice flavors that straddle the border between
dry and sweet. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2007 Clone
337 Bevill-Mazzocco Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Soft and rather
one-dimensional, this Cabernet shows ripe cherry, raspberry, blackberry and oak flavors. It’s bone dry, showing
herbal, astringent tannins. Could develop bottle interesting over the next 6–8 years. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
Tortoise Creek 2008 Cherokee Lane Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Name checking
an old stretch of Lodi highway, this Cab has more red
cherry fruit than black as well as a noticeable trace of
cedar, lacking in structure and acidity perhaps but decent enough—and very fairly priced—to pop open with
a midweek steak. The grapes used are Lodi Rules certified green sustainable. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $11
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Beaver Creek 2009 Horne Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake County). A soft,
round Cabernet that’s got leather, cedar and sage going
on as well as heavy tannins and oak. Made from 100%
organic grapes grown in Lake County, the wine reveals
itself best after a bit of air. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $29
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Bianchi 2008 Signature Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). The acidity
minty, cedar nose and flavors of blackberry and chocolate that eventually come through. —V.B.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $24
Starmont 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Give this wine more structure,
and the score would soar. It’s dry and smooth, with classic blackberry, black currant and cedar flavors that finish
long and spicy. But it’s so soft, it feels like it melted in
the mouth. Ready now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $27
Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2008 Winemaker’s Reserve Meritage (Sonoma County).
Rich and forward in blackberry, cherry and currant flavors, with an overripe note that veers into raisins, this
Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend is dry and tannic. It’s
ready to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $48
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Calcareous 2008 Twisted Sisters Matriarch (Paso Robles). Acidic and brittle, with
an unnatural tartness to the sweet, jammy cherry, blackberry, cola and oak flavors. This Bordeaux-style blend is
best opened now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $20
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Jaxon Keys 2007 Peterson Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendocino County).
The Ukiah Valley gets hot, no doubt, but 15.8% alcohol
on a Mendocino Cabernet is still hard to take. This wine
is very tightly wound, a little hot, a little flabby with a
Jeff Gordon 2007 Ella Sofia Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Overoaked, with
sweet, caramelized wood and vanilla flavors dominating an otherwise soft, ripe wine. The blackberries and
cherries have a sugary finish, making the wine tiresome.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
Jeff Gordon 2007 Ella Sofia Joie de Vivre
(Napa Valley). A Bordeaux blend with some
Sonoma Cabernet added, this wine is soft and overtly
sweet. It tastes like a chocolate, cherry, blackberry and
roasted almond granola candy, melted into wine. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $61
Pietra Santa 2007 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Cienega Valley). Soft and
hot, with some raisin flavors alongside the blackberries
and mulberries. The finish is dry and astringent in tannins. Not likely to age, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
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Robert Mondavi 2009 Meritage (California). A simple wine, but the price is right, and
it will do well at a big party. Shows sweetly ripe blackberry and cherry fruit, with a nice, full-bodied mouthfeel. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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Dewitt 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). One-dimensional and silky, with candied cherry and raspberry flavors that finish a little
sweet. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $18
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Cupcake 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Central Coast). Not much going on in this
dry wine. It’s thin in fruit, making the acidity stick out
with a sharp cut. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Tolosa 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso
Robles). Hard in tannins, with acidity so high
it’s sour, this Cabernet also tastes excessively sweet,
making it really hard to like. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $19
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Sharabella Wines 2008 Padre Amante
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Not
sure what’s going on here but both bottles of this Cab
smelled of diesel gasoline, burnt rubber and corn nuts.
—V.B.
abv: 13.25%
Price: $15
CHARBONO
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Coturri Winery 2007 Testa Vineyards
Charbono (Mendocino County). Sonoma
County’s Coturri, an early advocate of organic farming
and old-fashioned winemaking, has made a tiny amount
of Charbono, a hybrid of Nebbiolo and Grenache.
Grown at Testa in Mendocino, a great source of many
heritage varieties, including Zinfandel and Carignane,
this Charbono is grapey and rustic with a fair amount of
acidity throughout. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
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Fortino 2007 Charbono (Santa Clara Valley). A grippy, ink-staining, concentrated Charbono from the Santa Clara Valley, made from 90% estate-grown Charbono (the vineyard is in San Martin)
and 10% Syrah. Two years spent in French oak might
explain its minty, cedar highlights, rounded out by black
cherry and plum. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $34
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Three Rights Left 2008 Charbono (Suisun Valley). Rustic with softened tannins, this
Charbono, a rare sight in California where fewer than
100 acres are planted, is inky and mellow, its acidity a
good match for a range of goopy, Italian-inspired foods.
—V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Merlot (Sonoma-Napa). For full review see
page 9.
opens into a fine Merlot that would go well with rich
red meat. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Selene 2009 Frediani Vineyard Merlot
(Napa Valley). A beautiful Merlot, rich and
evocative. It has soft tannins and delicious flavors of red
cherry jam, red currants and chocolate, accented with
smoky oak. The tannins are so fine. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
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Clos La Chance 2008 Merlot (Central
Coast). This wine sneaked into a tasting of
far more expensive Napa Valley wines and did well. It’s
softly tannic and dry, yet so rich in blackberry, cherry
and chocolate fruit, it’s almost sweet. An enjoyable red
wine to drink now, at a very nice price. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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GRENACHE
Concannon 2008 Conservancy Merlot
(Livermore Valley). A round and juicy Merlot
with very ripe fruit flavors of plum and blueberry and
enough texture to be paired with an array of meals. Very
pleasant all around and priced fair and square. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Zaca Mesa 2008 Grenache (Santa Ynez
Valley). Grenache is one of the hardest varieties to get right, and Zaca Mesa has had brilliant successes as well as not so great. This ’08 is somewhere in the
middle. It’s beautifully ripe in cherry fruit, with a pretty
veneer of smoky oak, and feels vital and layered in the
mouth. With the weight of Pinot Noir, it should develop
interestingly over the next five years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
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Holly’s Hill 2009 Estate Grenache (El Dorado). This Sierra Foothills Grenache Noir,
as it’s labeled, has an intense, grapey nose, its taste
silky, smooth and juicy with decent length and texture,
though the wine could use more layers. Estate-grown,
this is an interesting producer of Rhône varieties in El
Dorado, this wine blended with 8% Mourvedre and 1%
Petite Sirah. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $20
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Tolosa 2009 Autumn Blend Grenache
(San Luis Obispo County). Bitterly dry and
high in acidity, this Grenache lacks the richness needed
to satisfy. Its cherry, cola and oak flavors are thin, all on
the surface, giving it a fast, rustic feel. —S.H.
Price: $19
abv: 14.2%
MERLOT
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Whitehall Lane 2008 Merlot (Napa Valley). Does just what Merlot is supposed to,
deliver a ripe, seductive red wine in a velvety texture.
Feels so soft and drink-me-now in the mouth, with
waves of blackberries, cherries, red currants, licorice
and mocha. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $28
Madrigal 2008 Merlot (Napa Valley). A deliciously soft, easy-drinking Merlot for enjoying
tonight with a nice steak or burger. It’s basically dry, but
ultrarich and sweet in raspberry, cherry, cocoa and baking spice flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
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Merryvale 2008 Merlot (Napa Valley). A
very good, impressive Merlot, if a little irregular in tannic structure. It’s dry and rich in black cherries, red licorice and bacon, with a solid coating of oak.
Elegant enough, but not going anywhere, so drink up.
—S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $48
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Schug 2008 Merlot (Sonoma Valley).
Made in a light, pleasant style, and the drily tannic balance makes it food-friendly. Shows cherry, red
currant, cola and oak flavors, with an earthy edge of
herbs. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
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Schug 2007 Heritage Reserve Merlot
(Carneros). An earthy style of Merlot, with
herb, tobacco and mint flavors bracketing the cherries
and cola. It’s a dry, brisk wine, with firm tannins to drink
now. —S.H.
Price: $35
abv: 13.5%
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Triple B Ranches 2008 Estate Bottled
Merlot (South Coast). From a new South
Coast producer is this cherry-fragranced Merlot with
nice texture and balance, juicy red fruit and cinnamon
spice in the background. —V.B.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $28
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Cartlidge & Browne 2007 Merlot (North
Coast). A simple Merlot that’s priced fairly
and is a little tannic at first, the fruit acting shy, but that
Jeff Gordon 2005 Merlot (Napa Valley).
Even nearing six years of age, this Merlot remains tannic, although the cherry and blackberry fruit
is starting to dry out. There’s a curious sweetness at its
core. Not going anywhere, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
Pomar Junction 2007 Merlot (Paso Robles). This is a soft, hot Merlot. It has ripe flavors of cherries, red currants, red licorice, cocoa and
pepper, and finishes dry. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
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HammerSky 2008 Red Handed Merlot
(Paso Robles). Soft and sweet, with a liqueur
taste of raisins and crême de cassis. Dry, but hot. The
official alcohol reading of 14.5% by volume tastes suspiciously low. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $44
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Line 39 2009 Merlot (North Coast). This
wine’s dark cherry aromas veer into lipstick territory a bit and then the North Coast-sourced Merlot
becomes overly tannic and a tiny bit green. Decent for
the $10 price tag but not going to convert anyone into
Merlot (this one’s got 22% Cabernet Sauvignon blended
in as well). —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $10
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Wellington 2007 Merlot (Sonoma Valley).
This is a soft, rather one-dimensional Merlot.
It’s certainly flavorful in cherries, red currants, cola and
cedar, but There’s not a whole lot going on. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Cupcake 2009 Merlot (Central Coast).
A thin, harsh Merlot, lacking generosity, with
modest berry and oak flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Glen Ellen 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve
Merlot (California). Dry and vegetal, with an
asparagus taste alongside the cherries and blackberries.
At this price, not bad if you’re not fussy. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $10/1.5 L
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Merlot (Central Coast). These vineyards
seem to have been selected for unripe, vegetal grapes.
Just manages to scrape by with a veneer of cherries.
—S.H.
Price: $10
abv: 13.5%
PETITE SIRAH
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Bianchi 2008 Signature Selection Plummer Vineyard Petite Sirah (Paso Robles).
Dark chocolate, mashed blackberries, black licorice and
black currants so ripe they’re raisined are the flavors of
WineMag.com | 59
this dry wine. It’s very tannic, in the way of Petite Sirah,
and rather soft. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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Madrigal 2008 Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). Treads the line between dry and sweet,
with sugary, pie-filled raspberry, cherry and chocolate
flavors, wrapped into Petite Sirah’s big tannins. Drink
this lusty wine with roasted meats, especially sausages.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Michael David 2009 Petite Petit (Lodi). Almost black in color, this is a blend of 85% Petite
Sirah, 15% Petit Verdot with a pronounced smell and
taste of smoked bacon, even smoked gouda, a huge-inthe-mouth wine that’s got nothing petite (or petit) about
it. Its lingering tannic smokiness begs for barbecue,
smoked trout or such. The label is awesome. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
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Rock Wall 2009 Carver Sutro Palisades
Vineyard Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). Hot,
spicy and sweet in blackberries, cherries and raspberries, like a fruit reduction sauce. The tannins are tough.
Cries out for barbecue. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $40
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De Loach 2009 Stubbs Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Marin County). A fine Marin Pinot
Noir, showing the dryness, zesty acidity and rich, deep
red fruit that mark this cool, coastal county. Bigtime in
raspberries, strawberries and cherries, it’s complexed
with subtle minerals, mushrooms and Indian spices. So
elegant, with 13.5% alcohol, you can give it a chill in the
fridge. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
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Phillips Hill 2009 Hinterlands Pinot Noir
(Mendocino). If you’re looking for flavor, and
who isn’t, this fruity Pinot Noir hits the spot. It’s pale
in color and light in the mouth, but rich in raspberries,
cherries, pomegranates and cola, with sweet, smoky oak
influences. Should develop in the bottle over the next
six years. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
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Testarossa 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Another
gloriously ripe, delicious Pinot Noir from this celebrated vineyard. The wine is extraordinarily rich in raspberry and cherry pie, crême brûleé and cinnamon spice
flavors, wrapped into silky tannins and brightened with
zesty acidity. Best over the next three years for freshness. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $56
Glen Ellen 2009 Petite Sirah (California).
Sweet, soft and jammy, with raspberry, bacon
and bubblegum flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10/1.5 L
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PINOT NOIR
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Lost Canyon 2009 Morelli Lane Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full
review see page 6.
Lost Canyon 2009 Saralee’s Vineyard
|Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full
review see page 6.
vigorous young Pinot Noir. It’s completely dry and complex, with a tantalizing balance of ripe cherry, cola and
pomegranate fruit and earthier notes of mushrooms,
herbs and minerals. Plenty of acidity, too, which gives it
a pleasant scour. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $48
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Joseph Jewell 2008 Elk Prairie Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Humboldt County). For full review see page 7.
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La Rochelle 2008 Sarmento Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Combines tight tannins and acids with concentrated raspberry, cherry, Dr. Pepper cola and oak flavors to produce
a vigorous, young, savory Pinot Noir. Feels silky in the
mouth, yet potent in fruity concentration. There’s some
burn in the finish, but a good steak will take care of that.
Give it a year or two to mellow. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $48
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Phillips Hill 2009 Wiley Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Anderson Valley). Made in a lightbodied style, with a see-through color containing glints
of orange and ruby. Feels light and silky in the mouth,
but don’t underestimate the complexity. This wine
packs a punch in raspberry, cherry, Dr. Pepper cola, orange zest, tobacco, spice and sandalwood flavors. Drink
now–2015. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $35
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Amici 2007 Pinot Noir (Mendocino). A
very clearly well-made wine—the longtime former Beaulieu winemaker Joel Aiken’s name is listed as
winemaker—the Pinot is sourced from high-elevation
vineyards above the town of Mendocino and fermented
in small lots. Beautifully textured, aromas open slowly,
dominated by rose petal and violets and a touch of cola
spice, developing further into dark cherry and earthy
tones. Rich and layered, it’s a great value for lovers of
bigger-style Pinot and will age another few years for
sure. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $30
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Testarossa 2009 Niclaire Pinot Noir (California). Absolutely delicious. Although it’s a bit
full bodied and heavy for a Pinot Noir, it’s stunningly
good, offering wave after wave of berry, cherry, orange
peel, spice and oak flavors, with interesting side notes of
mushrooms, cola, cocoa and licorice. The California appellation is because the wine is a best barrel blend from
Testarossa’s vineyards up and down the state. Drink
now–2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $75
Testarossa 2009 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A first-rate
Pinot Noir, dry and firm in structure. There’s a solid
minerality girding the ripe cherry, red currant and cola
fruit, while sweet oak provides an ample, but balanced,
coating of vanilla and toast. Luscious now right out of
the bottle, and should age for a good eight years. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
Testarossa 2009 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Lovely
and delicious, a Pinot Noir that flatters the palate with
the richest, sweetest fruit, yet always maintains balance
and elegance. Tiers of raspberry and cherry jam fruit
wash through the mouth, with powerful but tastefully
appointed oak influences, leading to a dry, spicy finish.
The tannins are a wonder, ripe, firm, and hard and soft
at the same time. Now–2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $59
Phillips Hill 2009 Valenti Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Mendocino Ridge). A young, oaky,
flashy Pinot Noir, grown on these mountain ridges high
above the Anderson Valley. The wine is dry and silky,
with a light bodiedness that belies its complexity. Shows
concentrated raspberry, cherry, red currant, cola, red
licorice and spice flavors that linger into the finish. Elegant, it will provide fine drinking over the next six years.
—S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
Chandon 2008 Pinot Noir (Carneros).
Lots of rich cherry, black raspberry and cola
fruit in this Pinot, which is dry and silky and actually
has a fairly fierce and welcome edge of tannins. It’s a big
wine, but with elegance. Screams out for steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
De Loach 2009 Pinot Noir (Marin County). Displays the winery’s house style of flashy,
delicious fruit and early drinkability. Shows the brisk
acidity of this cool coastal county, with a light, silky texture and penetrating flavors of raspberries, cherries,
persimmons and the sweet, smoky oak of French barrels. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Dierberg 2008 Drum Canyon Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Lots to like in this
Merryvale 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros).
De Loach 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). With a thick coating of caramelized
oak and masses of ripe, jammy fruit, this Pinot tastes
sweet. But it’s complex in its own way, with a pleasant
scour of acidity. Drink now with mushroom risotto,
lamb chops or, for the best of all worlds, both. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
Roessler 2009 La Brisa Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Just when you think this wine
is nothing but upfront red berry fruit and oak, more interesting pine, earth and spice flavors kick in. Then the
tannins and acids strike, giving a fine, dry structure. Best
to drink over the next 2–3 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $32
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Blue Nomad 2009 Swami Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Lots of jammy cherry and raspberry fruit here, with a good cut of acidity for refresh-
ing balance. Feels silky and generous in the mouth. A
pleasant, spicy, light-bodied Pinot Noir for drinking
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
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De Loach 2009 Heritage Reserve Pinot
Noir (California). A really nice wine, showing the generosity and sheer sexiness that Pinot Noir
can offer. With a silky mouthfeel, it has expansive flavors
of raspberry and cherry jam, orange zest, vanilla, cinnamon and sandalwood. One of the best Pinots on the
market at this price, and easy to find, with 20,000 cases
produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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the buttered toast influence of oak barrels. It’s a gently
appealing Pinot Noir to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $28
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Segue 2009 Singiani Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). This Pinot will divide people into opposite camps. Some will find it soft,
sweet, heavy and simple. Others will love the luscious
red currant, licorice, raspberry and bacon flavors, with
their spicy finish. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $30
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La Rochelle 2007 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz
Mountains). Held back for four years, this
Pinot still is a little gritty, with some sharp edges. The
cherry, cola, oak and bacon flavors have a barnyardy
funkiness. Ready now. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $38
Glen Ellen 2010 Proprietor‘s Reserve
Pinot Noir (California). For full review see
page 15.
Talbott 2009 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A streak
of unripe green mint mars this wine. It’s almost vegetal,
stealing the thunder from the cherry and oak flavors.
The tannins and acidity are beautiful, but that asparagus
note is disturbing. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $40
Bianchi 2008 Heritage Selection Zen
Ranch Pinot Noir (Paso Robles). This high
alcohol Zinfandel has a burn, and the flavors are unevenly ripened, with some green, vegetal notes. —S.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $17
La Rochelle 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Marked by very ripe raspberry, cherry and strawberry flavors, this Pinot also shows a lot of
smoky oak influences. It’s dry, with good tannins and
acidity. Not going anywhere, so drink over the next
three years. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $42
Toad Hollow 2009 Goldie’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 9.
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Robledo 2008 Rancho Rincon Pinot Noir
(Los Carneros). Huge in flavor, with massive
flavors of sweet, ripe raspberries and cherries. Oak barrel aging is evident, giving even richer layers of vanilla and caramel. Delicious and spicy, if a little obvious.
Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
Roessler 2009 Bluejay Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). A little soft, but a good, dry and
complex young Pinot Noir to drink now. Shows interesting flavors of tart cherries, with plenty of savory spices
and a rich hit of oak. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $32
Schug 2008 Heritage Reserve Pinot Noir
(Carneros). Made in a lighter style, this is a
pleasant Pinot Noir whose elegance make it an appropriate partner now with good food. It’s dry and silky,
with cherry, raspberry, anise and cinnamon flavors, and
feels just fine in the mouth. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Artesa 2008 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir
(Carneros). Nice and silky in the mouth, with
a rich overlay of toasty oak and savory spice, raspberry,
cherry and strawberry flavors. Fine acidity adds clean
brightness. A touch of underripeness detracts, so drink
now. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.3%
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Cartlidge & Browne 2009 Pinot Noir
(North Coast). A mild, medium-bodied North
Coast Pinot Noir with a pleasant aroma of cherry and
plum, the cherry carries throughout the wine’s texture
and overall follow-through. A tad simple, this wine is
nonetheless a tremendously great deal for California Pinot. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Philo Ridge 2007 Unfiltered Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). Lots of sweet raspberry,
strawberry and cherry fruit in this silky wine, along with
La Rochelle 2008 Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). A little unripe, with some green,
vegetal flavors. But it’s dry, and shows enough cherry
and oak richness to satisfy. The mouthfeel is nice and
silky. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $42
Roessler 2009 Red Label Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). Here’s a soft, rather one-dimensional Pinot Noir for drinking now. Nothing terribly
complicated going on, just a good, sound dry wine with
pleasant berry, spice and oak flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
Concannon 2009 Selected Vineyards,
Central Coast Pinot Noir (Livermore Valley). An inexpensive, large-production Pinot that’s
overly earthy and a little thin on the finish with a smidgen of residual sugar thrown in too, but reasonably
priced and decently quaffable with food. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Prospero 2009 Pinot Noir (Chalk Hill). A
gritty Pinot, with jammy raspberry and cherry
flavors, and an awkward overlay of sweet, caramelized
oak. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $29
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Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2009 Winemaker’s Reserve Zora’s Estate Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Acids and tannins dominate, at the expense of fruit, giving this Pinot
Noir a hard, rustic feel. The cherry flavors aren’t strong
enough to bust through the dryness. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $44
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Brophy Clark 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). Feels acidic and thin in the
mouth, with raspberry fruit and wintergreen mint flavors. On the plus side, it’s dry and silky. An okay Pinot
for this price. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
Talbott 2009 Kali Hart Pinot Noir (Monterey). Acidic and unripe, with sweet and
sour cherry, asparagus and spice flavors, accented with
smoky oak. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $21
Waterstone 2008 Pinot Noir (Carneros).
A tough, brittle Pinot Noir, dry and thin in
fruit, whose considerable acids and tannins dominate.
A touch of overripe raisins shows up in the bitter finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
Pomar Junction 2009 Pinot Noir (Paso
Robles). Syrupy sweet and soft, with candied
flavors that seriously lack structure. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $34
Pietra Santa 2009 Estate Grown Pinot
Noir (Cienega Valley). A soft, gluey Pinot
Noir, with almost no structure and bizarre cherry candy
and medicinal flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $18
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Noceto
2008
Hillside
Sangiovese
(Shenandoah Valley of California). Noceto has made an incredibly nuanced and deep, dark
Sangiovese here, still tight and tannic, definitely one to
age, with beautiful structure, tamed oak and subtle yet
strong dark fruit. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
Price: $28
abv: 14%
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Noceto
2007
Riserva
Sangiovese
(Shenandoah Valley of California). Sangiovese lovers will love this wine, so superbly made by Noceto, whose focus on this oft-maligned variety has proven that persistence can pay off. The wine has brightness
and depth, notes of red plum, cranberry and spice, solid
structure all around and length for days. It just gets better and better in the glass and at $24 is a fair price for a
food-friendly wine with depth. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $24
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Amador Foothill Winery 2007 Estate Bottled Sangiovese (Shenandoah Valley of
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California). The Shenandoah Valley in California’s
Sierra Foothills is definitely showing its propensity for
Sangiovese here with longtime producer Amador Foothill Winery doing a nice job on this 2007, a wine with
lots of dry, dusty tannins and mountain-grown structure
that’s still got spice and will pair with Italian-inspired
dishes with ease. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
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Tamás Estates 2009 Riserva Sangiovese
(San Francisco Bay-Livermore Valley).
Bright and light at first almost like a California Pinot
Noir, with red fruit and cola paying a visit, the blend
of mostly Sangiovese (79%), 20% Barbera and 5% Petit Verdot drinks big and full with a rustic finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $NA
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Zaca Mesa 2007 Black Bear Block Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). For full review see
page 5.
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Novy 2009 Simpson Vineyard Syrah (Dry
Creek Valley). A terrific Syrah, and a refutation to those who say this variety is irrelevant. No, it’s
not. This delicious wine, with soft tannins, fine acidity
and a wealth of berry, cocoa, licorice and bacon flavors,
fills a needed niche between Pinot Noir and a heavier
Cabernet Sauvignon. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $29
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Jorian Hill 2008 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). Nice and dry, with a good cut of acidity
balancing out the ripe black cherry and cola flavors. Fully drinkable now for the soft tannins, it’s a pleasant wine
that wants pairing with a grilled, salted and peppered
steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $38
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Scott Harvey 2008 Mountain Selection
Syrah (Amador County). It’s no surprise that
this Amador Syrah spent 21 months in French oak. The
wine is very tannic, savory with a wisp of pepper. Still,
for a bigger, more tannic style mountain of Syrah it’s got
some good acidity midpalate and through the finish and
could be interesting with a rich serving of duck, venison
or game. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Niner 2008 Bootjack Ranch Sangiovese
(Paso Robles). With the light body of Pinot
Noir, this rustic wine shows the cherry flavors and high
acidity associated with Sangiovese. It’s dry and tannic.
—S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $24
Bonny Doon 2007 Bien Nacido Vineyard
Syrah (Santa Maria Valley). With an official
alcohol of only 13.5%, this is one of the leanest Syrahs
ever to emerge from this famous vineyard. It’s bone dry,
zingy in acidity and tannic, and the cherry and berry flavors flirt with earthier notes of tobacco and dried Provençal herbs. Feels narrow gauge at first, but grows in
the glass as it airs, becoming increasingly elegant and
interesting. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
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San Marcos Creek 2009 Estate Syrah
(Paso Robles). Shows the lusty appeal of a
big Paso Robles red wine, with blackberry, currant, dark
chocolate, teriaki beef, pepper and oak flavors, wrapped
into firm tannins. A lovely, heady wine for drinking now
with your best grilled meats. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $22
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Longevity 2009 Sangiovese (Livermore
Valley). At 16.4% alcohol this might as well be
a Port, its aroma overwhelmingly sweet, overripe and
dominated by caramel syrup. The tannins are mouthpuckeringly dry, too. Tasted two bottles, both of which
had crumbling corks. —V.B.
abv: 16.4%
Price: $22
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Bonaccorsi 2008 Bien Nacido Vineyard
Syrah (Santa Maria Valley). Huge aromas
on this Syrah, refined, very potent, offering waves of
cassis, blackberries, roasted coffee, grilled meat, black
pepper, cedar and spices. Tastes as dense and lush as
it smells, a full-bodied, rich wine, tannic and with good
acidity. Finishes bone dry, yet sweet in cherries. A dazzling crowd-pleaser of a wine that should hold for five
years or so. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $40
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Dutton Estate 2008 My Father’s Vineyard Dutton Ranch Syrah (Russian River
Valley). Exceedingly ripe and a little high in alcohol,
this Syrah nonetheless is just delicious. It swamps the
mouth with pie-filling flavors of blackberries, cherries
and raspberries, sprinkled with savory baking spices and
enriched with sweet, smoky, caramelized oak. With firm
but pliant tannins, it’s a beautiful wine to drink now with
roasted lamb or grilled steak. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $40
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Bonaccorsi 2008 Larner Vineyard Syrah
(Santa Ynez Valley). A pretty wine, with a
touch of wintergreen mint and bacon fat adding complexity to the blackberries, cherries and cassis. Co-fermented with some Viognier, it’s vibrant in the mouth,
with a welcome cut of acidity to brighten and uplift the
fruit. A flashy, elegant, opulent Syrah to drink over the
next several years. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $40
Syrah (Santa Barbara County). A good value in a wine this rich and complex. It’s very full-bodied
and dry, with immensely deep blackberry, currant, black
pepper, roasted meat, smoke and spice flavors that linger long on the finish. Great with roasts and beef stews
over the next three years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Sonoma Coast Vineyards 2008 Occidental Road Syrah Syrah (Sonoma Coast).
An elaborately rich, flamboyant Syrah whose ultraripe
blackberry and cherry flavors have a tangy taste of bacon. Plenty of new oak adds vanilla, buttered toast and
butterscotch. Almost too much of a good thing. Drink
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
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Bonny Doon 2007 Alamo Creek Syrah
(San Luis Obispo County). With a mere
13.3% alcohol by volume, this wine represents Randall
Grahm’s efforts to get back to his interpretation of more
balanced wines. What you get is elegance and fine structure, at the cost of richness. Totally dry, it shows cherry
fruit, anise and pepper flavors, with a cherryskin tannic
bitterness. —S.H.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $35
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Meadowcroft 2007 Syrah (Sonoma
County). Give this wine a brief decant to let it
breathe and mellow. After a while, it’s soft and lush, with
rich flavors of blackberries, dark chocolate, pepper and
sweet cedar. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $34
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Zaca Mesa 2008 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). A sweetly soft 100% Syrah, made for
drinking now. It’s jammy and forward in raspberries,
cherries and mocha, with a dusting of pepper and cinnamon. Firm tannins provide a good grip in the mouth.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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Clos La Chance 2009 Estate Syrah (Central Coast). A pleasantly dry, fruity Syrah, with
spicy flavors of berries, currants, cola and plums, and a
tangy streak of grilled bacon. Drink this soft wine now.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
Niner 2007 Bootjack Ranch Syrah (Paso
Robles). Defines a certain style of Paso Robles
red wine, soft in structure, with easy, gentle tannins and
ripe, pronounced fruit that’s almost candied in sweetness. But in this case, the blackberry and cherry flavors
are totally dry. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Novy 2009 Syrah (Napa Valley). Dry, tannic and rather bitter, a tough, hard wine despite a solid core of blackberry and dark chocolate fruit.
Needs rich, fatty meats and cheeses to break down the
astringency. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
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Wellington 2006 Estate Syrah (Sonoma
Valley). Delicious and spicy, if a little too soft
in structure. Swamps the mouth with ripe, fruity flavors
of cherries, raspberries, currants and cola, with lots of
savory black pepper. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25
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J. Keverson 2008 Syrah (Sonoma Coast).
Everything about this Syrah is fine except the
softness. It’s dry, rich in tannins and properly flavored,
with layered notes of blackberries, cassis, dark chocolate, black pepper and dark chocolate. But it feels
lifeless in the mouth, lacking the vivacity a fine Syrah
needs. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $28
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Naggiar 2008 Estate Grown, Reserve
Syrah (Sierra Foothills). Dark, dark, dark is
this estate-grown Syrah, closed at the nose except for
the profusion of alcohol, grippy with lots of oak and crazy, teeth-staining tannins —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $35
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Olabisi 2006 King Vineyard Syrah (Suisun Valley). Time has not tamed this in-yourface, oaky, high-octane Syrah, which on the label says it’s
also known as "rasta red." The wine is very tannic, smelling of earth and tar and sticky caramel and could use a
touch more fruitiness to give it a lift. Do not attempt
to drink without a sauce-slathered side of beef. —V.B.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $30
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Tolosa 2008 Estate Syrah (Edna Valley).
A hard, tannic Syrah, difficult to fall in love with.
Edna Valley’s cool climate has given it tart acidity and
wintergreen flavors, sweetened with oak. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $28
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HAGT 2009 Syrah (California). A pretty
simple little Syrah, fruity and sweet in cherries,
with a sugary finish. Will pair nicely with a cheeseburger. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
Creek Zin, high in alcohol, brilliant in fruit and spices,
and with that curious finish that’s both sweet and dry at
the same time. Really dazzles with cherries, raspberries,
blackberries and all kinds of other wild forest berries.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $20
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Philo Ridge 2007 Bliss Ranch Zinfandel
(Mendocino). This wine from the hills above
Anderson Valley needed time to open but once it did it
revealed itself to be a very good, cool-climate version of
the variety. This is full of blackberry and peppery spice,
its high acidity perfect for a range of food. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $24
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Scott Harvey 2007 Old Vine Reserve Zinfandel (Amador County). An inviting oldvine Zin with classically big, dry tannins and an overwhelming nose of alcohol at first that blows off into a
dense, chewy, black-fruit wine that’ll appeal to Zin lovers, its two years in French oak giving it some lift and
complexity in texture. Lingering finish, too. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
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Michael David 2009 Sixth Sense Syrah
Syrah (Lodi). Unfortunately, a vast disappointment after the 2008, this vintage is gamey on the
nose and smooth drinking at first but simple, with no
spiciness, no nuances, too much sugar, not enough acid
and so high in alcohol) without the fruit to tame. —V.B.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $16
Amador Foothill Winery 2007 Esola Vineyard Zinfandel (Shenandoah Valley of
California). A very nicely priced Zin from 66-year-old,
dry-farmed Sierra Foothills vines that has an intense
spiciness right from the get-go and is appropriately tannic and meaty, big and classic for its historical roots.
Plum, blackberry and tobacco predominate and already
with four years of age, this one could age more. —V.B.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $18
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Barefoot NV Shiraz (California). Sweet and
simple, with jammy raspberry and bubblegum
flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $7
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Manzanita Creek 2008 De Luxe Syrah
(Sonoma County). A raw, hot wine, thin in
fruit, showing overripe raisin and prune flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Pomar Junction 2009 Syrah (Paso Robles). Sharp and aggressive in acidity and unripe tannins, with a green mint edge to the cherries
and raspberries, which actually are quite sweet. It’s an
unbalanced, rustic wine with excessively high alcohol.
—S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $36
C.G. di Arie 2008 Estate Grown, Block 4
Primitivo (Shenandoah Valley of California). This Sierra Foothills Primitivo smells good, lively
and of dark, berries, which carry into the taste of the
wine. Well-integrated and the alcohol reined in, this effort finishes with a lasting note of cocoa. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
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Foggy Bridge 2009 GEO Zinfandel (San
Francisco Bay). Daryl Groom is making
these wines from Livermore Valley vineyards mostly
and the wine is no doubt big in every way—15.6% alcohol with big tannins and big black, spicy fruit flavors
hiding in there at first. It definitely needs time to open.
And a giant, slathered-in-sauce kind of steak or other
red meat. —V.B.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $28
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C.G. di Arie 2008 Zinfandel (Sierra Foothills). A very spicy, thick mountain-fruit Zin
that shows a fantastic balance between blackberry fruit
and peppery, briary-ness with dark chocolate showing
up on the finish. An elegant Zin from a producer striving
to do good things in its little pocket of the Sierra Foothills’ world. It’s priced well. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $18
Noceto 2007 OGP - The Original Grandpere Vineyard Zinfandel (Amador County). Noceto is a Sangiovese specialist in the Sierra Foothills but does a nice job with Zinfandel here, sourcing
from the "original" Grandpere Vineyard, which dates
back to the 1860s and which the winery says may be the
oldest producing Zin vineyard in the world. The wine
is classic old-vine, good and juicy with blackberry predominant, but also tannic and brambly, dusty even, with
a hint of mint. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $29
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Pedroncelli 2009 Bushnell Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Classic Dry
Girard 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel (Napa
Valley). This is a strongly flavored Zinfandel.
It’s potent in cherry, blackberry and chocolate flavors,
even a little overripe in Porty raisins. Drink now with
barbecue or roasted meats. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $24
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J. Keverson 2008 Buck Hill Vineyard Zinfandel (Sonoma County). This Zin is very
rich and elaborate in chocolate, raspberry jam and
white pepper spice, and high alcohol gives it a glycerine
sweetness. But a crisp streak of acidity provides needed balance. Drink now with barbecue, Chinese mushu
pork, Mexican beef dishes. —S.H.
abv: 15.9%
Price: $27
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Jelly Jar 2009 Nova Vineyard Zinfandel
(Lake County). Jelly Jar’s Lake County oldvine Zin is jam-packed with dusty tannins and briary
black fruit but the finish is slightly uneven. Love the
package though. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $24
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Zinfandel (Mendocino County). KJ’s Mendocino County Zin has both red and black berry fruit
flavor and the spiciness one expects from dry-farmed
Mendocino County vineyards, though the tannins stick
around a bit longer than one might like. Cedar definitely shows up on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
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Madrigal 2008 Zinfandel (Napa Valley).
Lots of sweet fruit in this Zin. Floods the mouth
with red, blue and black berries, sprinkled with dusty
Indian spices and finished with a dash of cocoa. Nice
tannins give it a fine structure. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Rubus 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel Zinfandel
(Lodi). A big, full yet nicely balanced old-vine
Zin with the variety’s spiciness front and center and fine
notes of cherry and plum. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $19
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De Loach 2009 Zinfandel (Russian River
Valley). A solid Zin for everyday drinking. A little rough and thin, but dry and spicy, with berry, currant
and teriaki flavors. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $20
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Haraszthy 2008 Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel
(Lodi). Haraszthy’s old-vine wine has a good
Zin nose and great mouthfeel and just the right balance
of spice and plumminess. Medium in weight it’s not
heavy-handed the way old-vine Zin can often be, tasting of just-ripe blackberries, but the spice that’s so nice
throughout doesn’t stick around for the finish. —V.B.
Price: $13
abv: 14.5%
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Renwood 2008 Jack Rabbit Flat Zinfandel (Amador County). An austere, savory Zin
from Amador, one of the smaller-production Zinfandels
from Renwood and it shows. Firm tannins, dusty black
fruit and spice—a good option for Sierra Foothills Zin
fans. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
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Rock Wall 2009 Monte Rosso Vineyard
Reserve Zinfandel (Sonoma County). Hot
and scoury in high alcohol, and that burn is accented by
Zin’s powerhouse tingly spices. The flavors are extracted
and sweet in raspberries, cherries and milk chocolate.
Enjoy this rugged Zin with barbecue and roasts. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $30
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Cedar Mountain 2009 Reserve Zinfandel
(Livermore Valley). A big and intense Zin
with a pucker that holds on, this Livermore red is heavy
and a bit dull aromatically, opening up to show spice,
black fruit and cedar but overall it finishes short. —V.B.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $33
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Clos La Chance 2009 Estate Zinfandel
(Central Coast). Loaded with raspberry,
cherry, cola, raisin and spice flavors, this Zinfandel is
useful for pairing with barbecue. A nice Reuben sandwich will also star. The wine is rustically likeable. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
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J. Keverson 2008 Thurow Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). The alcohol on
this wine is 16.2%, so high that it makes the wine taste
as sweet as Port. There may even be residual sugar, giving it the taste of blackberry jam and chocolate. —S.H.
abv: 16.2%
Price: $30
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M. Cosentino 2008 The Zin Zinfandel
(Lodi). Yeasty at first, this Lodi Zin from Napa’s
Cosentino Winery is dense and on the clove and ultraripe blackberry side of the Zin spectrum, decently simple
in its intensity. —V.B.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $22
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Zinfandel (Mendocino). This estate-grown
inland Mendocino Zin has an inviting spiciness and is
plenty briary with a full body of flavor but its high-alcohol level masks any other nuances. —V.B.
abv: 15.7%
Price: $23
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Paul Dolan 2009 Zinfandel (Mendocino
County). Paul Dolan has been making some
great wines from his patch of biodynamic Mendocino
farmland but this Zin didn’t deliver the wealth of flavors
many of his others have, muted aromatically and the
tannins a touch stewy. Best with boldly flavored foods
around the barbecue or campfire. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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HammerSky 2008 Estate Zinfandel (Paso
Robles). Some overripe raisin flavors give this
Zin a bitter taste, although it’s totally dry. Shows flavors
of chocolate and spicy blackberry jam. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $39
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J. Keverson 2008 Zinfandel (Sonoma
County). Soft and sweet, with jammy berry
and currant flavors, and the glyceriney sugar of high alcohol. Will appeal to fans of this style, but it’s really too
sweet for a dry table wine. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $26
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Novy 2009 Carlisle Vineyard Zinfandel
(Russian River Valley). Too sweet. Whether that’s because of leftover sugar, high alcohol or both,
this Zin is more like a Porty dessert wine. It’s delicious
and rich, but the sweetness has to be counted as a defect. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $34
Sorelle Winery 2009 Sorriso Primitivo
(Lodi). Tight and tannic, like red brick, bread
and caramel, this Lodi Primitivo has 5% Barbera mixed
in but the entire effort tastes of not-quite-ripe blackberries. —V.B.
abv: 14.75%
Price: $22
Zynthesis 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel Zinfandel (Lodi). One must strain to smell the
ripe plum at first in this wine that is otherwise more
tannic than juicy or flavorful. Buoyed by American oak
and a dash or two of Syrah and Petite Sirah it’s rightly
priced. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $11
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Cedar Mountain 2007 Hansen Vineyard
Reserve Zinfandel (Livermore Valley).
Funky with prune and tobacco overwhelming any fresher fruit, this Livermore Zin is high in alcohol (15.8%),
which coats the tongue for a long time after the wine
goes down. —V.B.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $33
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Glen Ellen 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel (California). For full review see page 14.
Manzanita Creek 2005 Carreras Ranch
Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). A heavy,
sweet Zin. With 16% alcohol, it tastes like a simple Port,
with raisin, blackberry and chocolate flavors. —S.H.
abv: 16%
Price: $38
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Manzanita Creek 2008 Three Vines Zinfandel (Sonoma County). Sweet and Porty,
an overripe wine with lots of ripe, jammy fruit and a hot
finish. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $28
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Jacuzzi 2009 Primitivo (Lake County).
Something is lacking in this, which has a dominant aroma of baked bread and savory mushrooms. Tannic and oaky, its year spent in American oak, 30% of that
new, hasn’t done it many favors. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $22
Rock Wall 2009 Westphall Ridge Vineyard Rockpile Road Zinfandel (Sonoma
County). A somewhat rustic wine, edgy in tannins and
not quite ripe yet jammy at the same time, with olive,
herb, blackberry and oak flavors. The spices are the nicest part. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $35
Adelaida 2008 Michael’s Vineyard Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Soft and sweet, like
a melted fruit tart dessert in wine form. High alcohol
gives a burn to the Porty raisin, blackberry and chocolate flavors. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $32
M. Cosentino 2008 Cigar Zin Zinfandel
(California). High alcohol gives this Zin jalapeño pepper heat, while the overripeness shows up as
raisiny, porty notes. —S.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $22
Wellington 2007 Meeks Hilltop Ranch
Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). Thin and simple, with ripe wild berry, cherry, currant, tobacco and
pepper spice flavors that finish dry and watery. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $25
Earthquake 2009 Zinfandel (Lodi). The
back of the label on this heavy bottle says about
the wine that it is, "intentionally hostile" and they are
not kidding. At 16% alcohol it’s huge, alcoholic, juicy
and fleshy with bacon fat and bologna aromas. A bit dull
to many, hostile and full of flavor to others. —V.B.
abv: 16%
Price: $26
Joel Gott 2007 Mohr-Fry Ranches Zinfandel (Lodi). This usually solid producer hasn’t
made anything special here, this Lodi zin’s aromas veering into questionable metallic areas, though on the palate the wine has some fruit. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
Renwood 2008 Fiddletown Zinfandel
(Fiddletown). This Fiddletown Zin, a yearly offering from Renwood, has a slight burnt smell of
strong coffee and a burn on its finish, perhaps due to the
high alcohol. —V.B.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $25
Scott Harvey 2008 Mountain Selection
Zinfandel (Amador County). This mountain
Zin is aromatically akin to flat cola and alcohol, its tannins towering over the fruit like fortress bullies. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Renwood 2007 Red Label Zinfandel (Sierra Foothills). Low in price, high in quantity,
low in quality. Dry and tannic with an off taste, the wine
doesn’t get better with time. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
OTHER REDS
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Merryvale 2008 Cabernet Franc (Napa
Valley). For full review see page 3.
PharaohMoans 2009 Westside (Paso Robles). If you know the Rhône-style wines of
Saxum, which is probably Paso Robles’ most expensive
wine, this is nearly identical. Mostly Syrah, with 8% Grenache, the wine is decadently rich in milk chocolate,
blackberry jam and sweet, smoky oak flavors. It’s very
high in alcohol, but unless you’re an extremist in this
regard, you can’t help but be knocked out by the wine’s
sensuous pleasures. —S.H.
abv: 15.9%
Price: $95
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Adelaida 2008 Version (Paso Robles).
With this Mourvedre-dominated wine, Adelaida vies for supremecy in the red Rhône-style competi-
tion. The wine is rich in jammy cherry, raspberry and
blackberry jam fruit, with smoky oak overtones and lots
of exotic spices. The richness is balanced by acidity and
firmly sweet, ripe tannins. An impressive wine to drink
with Indian food, or a steak with french fried potatoes.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $34
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Bonny Doon 2007 Le Cigare Volant (Central Coast). A provocative wine. If you’re tired
of soft, oaky red wines, try this Rhône-style blend. It’s
super dry, rich in furry tannins and has a good cut of
acidity that gives brightness to the wild cherry and raspberry, chamomile tea, nettle, lavender and black pepper
flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $35
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Holly’s Hill 2009 Classique Mourvèdre
(El Dorado). Now we’re talking. A robust yet
restrained take on Mourvèdre from a Rhône specialist
in El Dorado, this wine rocks through and through, tasting of dark cherry tart and following that up with excellent texture and length. A 100% version of the variety
that might convert doubters of this grape and further
prove pockets of the Sierra Foothills’ potential are real.
Plus at $20, why not try it out? —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Zaca Mesa 2007 Z Three (Santa Ynez Valley). For full review see page 8.
Tamás Estates 2008 Toscanelli Red Wine
Clean, bright and full-flavored with lovely acidity accented by cherry and plum, this wine would be delicious with prosciutto as well as any antipasti. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $23
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C.G. di Arie 2008 Interlude (Sierra Foothills). A red blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite
Sirah and Primitivo, much of it estate grown, full of
chewy mountain fruit flavors, structured and smoky (in
a good way) and earthy, too. The traces of licorice and
herbs would be interesting with a similarly herbed piece
of fish or chicken. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
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Fenestra 2006 Tourvanillo, Silvaspoons
Vineyard Reserve (Lodi). Fenestra really loves sourcing from Lodi’s Silvaspoons Vineyard, a
source here for this proprietary blend, a kitchen sink of
varieties. The wine is rustic, juicy and versatile, lots of
blackberry, blueberry and cherry going on, and modest
in alcohol at 13%. —V.B.
Price: $28
abv: 13%
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Tamás Estates 2008 Fiorente Red Wine
Made in a Super-Tuscan style with 49% of the blend
Sangiovese (the rest 33% Cab Sauvignon, 16% Merlot,
1% Zin and 1% Syrah) this wine is big, meaty and savory
with sweet tannins and vanilla laced throughout while
still balanced enough to be a good choice with red meat
and red sauce. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
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Cinnabar NV Cruvée Lot III (California).
Tastes sharp in acidity and frankly sweet, with
sugary blackberry and cherry jam flavors that finish in a
swirl of baking spices. The blend is Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petite Sirah. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
Grizzly Republic 2008 Gypsy Noir (Paso
Robles). A blend of Syrah, Petite Sirah,
Mourvèdre and other varieties, this is a standard-issue
red wine, soft and a little sweet, with pie-filling flavors
of cherries and raspberries. It’s light and spicy on the
finish. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $27
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Prospero 2009 Cabernet Franc (Chalk
Hill). Rich fruit marks this soft, simple wine. It’s
ripe in black cherries and spices, with a smoky, oaky layer that brings in vanilla and sweet butterscotch. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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Tablas Creek 2009 Cotes de Tablas
Rouge (Paso Robles). A dry, soft wine that
depends on richness to get by, at the expense of structure. Raspberries, cherries, mocha, cinnamon and pepper are the flavors of this blend of Grenache, Syrah,
Counoise and Mourvèdre. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Blue Nomad 2008 Rockus Bockus (Sonoma County). A good and useful red blend,
a little green in peppermint, but spicy and dry, with
berry and cola flavors. Just fine for a full-bodied house
wine. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $14
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Diamond Ridge Vineyards 2007 2 Jakes
Red Blend (Clear Lake). 2 Jakes smells
sweet and alcoholic at first, then veers left with cranberry aromas, veers right with a pinch of cola and finishes tannic. Keep the food fatty and simple and it’ll go
well. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Fenestra 2007 Silvaspoons Vineyard Alvarelhão (Lodi). A Livermore Valley sourcing
a Portuguese red grape variety from a Lodi vineyard.
Does it work? The wine’s dark purple yet subdued at
first in flavor, opening slightly into tones of blueberry,
raspberry and sour cherry, a smidgen of spice on the finish. Worth trying. —V.B.
Price: $18
abv: 13.7%
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Fenestra 2008 Tempranillo (Lodi). A plush,
big, oaky California Tempranillo with plum, fig
and black cherry in the mix, but also clove, bittersweet
chocolate and did we mention, oak? Oy, the oak. Maybe
more than it needed. A pruney aftertaste muddles the
finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $24
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Jorian Hill 2008 BEEspoke (Santa Ynez
Valley). This Syrah and Grenache blend is soft
and easy to drink now, offering raspberry and cherry
jam flavors with a hit of sweet, smoky oak. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
Madrigal 2009 Tempranillo (Calistoga).
Similar to Pinot Noir in the light, silky texture,
easy tannins and cherry flavors. A good, dry wine, but
rustic, and a little unbalanced in ripeness levels. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $40
Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2008 Les Trois
Amis (Sonoma County). Too sweet and
sharp for balance, with an acetic bite to the rich raspberry, cherry, cola, cocoa and spice flavors. The blend
is Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $65
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Toad Hollow 2009 Erik’s the Red (California). A good everyday wine, tannic and dry,
with flavors of herbs, ripe berries and currants, and savory spices. The seven-variety blend starts with Merlot
and ends with Petite Sirah. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
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un4seen 2009 Red Blend (California). For
Beckmen 2009 Cuvée Le Bec (Santa
Ynez Valley). Simple and sharp in acidity, with
jammy raspberry and cherry flavors commingling in an
uncomfortable coating of sweet oak. This Rhône-style
blend from Beckmen is a disappointment. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $18
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Calcareous 2008 Tres Violet (Paso Robles). This tastes like a hot, simple wine
whose berry, cherry and bacon flavors have been acidified, making it strangely unbalanced. It finishes on the
sweet, jammy side. Made of roughly equal parts Syrah,
Mourvèdre and Grenache. —S.H.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $38
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Suncé Vineyard & Winery 2009 Mourvèdre (Napa Valley). Light in the mouth and
silky, like a Pinot Noir, with cherry and raspberry fruit
flavors. A little one-dimensional, but okay now with a
nice cheeseburger. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $28
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Brophy Clark 2009 G-S-M (Santa Ynez
Valley). This blend of Grenache, Syrah and
Mourvèdre is unbalanced. It’s sweet in dessert red berry
fruit, with an awkward streak of acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
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Austin Hope NV Troublemaker (Paso Robles). This blend of Syrah, Grenache and a few
other varieties feels hot in the mouth, even though the
alcohol is officially only 14.5%. It’s thin and dry in jammy berry flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
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Rock Wall 2009 The Palindrome Tannat
(California). Thin in structure, with simple,
sweet jam and herb flavors, this Tannat has strong tannins and acids. —S.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $22
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Vina Robles 2009 Red4 (Paso Robles).
Maybe they took all the leftover wine and mixed
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SWEET REDS
Apex 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Overall this shows a softness in the mouth,
with light flavors of buttery green banana. It’s creamy,
easy-drinking, streaked with vanilla and suggestions of
sweet spices. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $15
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it together?. A Rhône-style blend based on Petite Sirah,
it’s dry, tannic and jammy. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $16
Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2006 Latigo
Dessert Wine Cabernet Sauvignon (Red
Hills Lake County). Hawk and Horse makes an impressive Red Hills Cabernet Sauvignon so it’s no surprise they would excel with a Port-style fortified wine
made from their same, biodynamically farmed, mountain Cab Sauv grapes. Dark-cherry red in color and aroma with a leathery, cigar nose, this wine is super rich in
texture, full of caramel and dark plum, finishing smooth
and long. Very pleasant to drink, with the tannins nicely
mellowed. —V.B.
abv: 16%
Price: $45
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Fenestra 2004 Silvaspoons Vineyard Port
(Lodi). Made from native Portuguese grapes,
this Lodi-sourced Port-style wine has a strong, sweet
nose of big-time ripe cherry and blackberry with a hint
of meat, almost jamón. Balanced on the finish, veering
slightly too sweet midpalate. —V.B.
abv: 18%
Price: $17/375 ml
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Montoliva 2008 Viani Vineyard Barbera
(Sierra Foothills). Fans of Barbera will want
to give this late-harvest version a try, a wine with plenty
of toffee and oak on the nose that’s sweet and fruity, rustic in the right ways, though tasting a little overripe on
the finish. Residual sugar is listed at 3.3% by weight; the
sugar at harvest was 31 degrees Brix. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $20/500 ml
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Barefoot NV Delicious (California). Sweet
red wines are making a comeback in the U.S.,
and if you’re into them, this is your entry level. It’s sugary and jammy. —S.H.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $7
WASHINGTON WHITES
CHARDONNAY
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Januik 2009 Cold Creek Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Cold Creek is
a great Chardonnay site, and winemaker Mike Januik
has been making wine from these grapes since his years
at Chateau Ste. Michelle. A sleek, sculptural, finely detailed effort, this mixes pretty orange and citrus and
light tropical fruits with racy acidity and subtle streaks
of butterscotch and caramel. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Olsen Estates 2008 Chardonnay (Yakima
Valley). The Olsens are growers with decades
of experience, and this is as lush and thoroughly delicious as Washington Chardonnay can ever be. A big,
toasty mouthful of fruit salad—citrus, pineapple and
peach in particular—runs into a smooth, luscious wash
of buttery oak. Yum. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $20
Goose Ridge 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). A peachy, fruit-forward, mouthfilling wine that brings bright Washington fruit— peaches,
apples and pears—into play, along with caramel candy
and underlying acid support. It falls short only in the
finish, which turns slightly bitter and attenuated. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $18
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Three Rivers 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Entirely barrel fermented in
French oak, just half the wine went through malolactic fermentation. It’s a good call; the remaining acidity
lifts the buttery banana fruit flavors, and prevents the
wine from going all soft and flabby. Definitely a butterball style, with toasted nuts and popcorn flavors front
and center. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
best in a league of their own. Rich and bracing and fully
ready to drink. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $18
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J. Bookwalter 2010 Anecdote Riesling
(Columbia Valley). Somehow this manages to
be intensely fruity, searingly tart and still rounded out
with appealing sweetness. It’s a dynamic, lively and lingering mix of flavors, running from grapefruit into pear
and apricot, with an underlying minerality. Powerful
and full-bodied. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $15
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Trust 2010 Riesling (Columbia Valley).
Another fine vintage for Trust Riesling, with a
pretty, lilting cadence that weaves the sweet/tart fruits
into scents of melon, citrus and orange peel. Flavors follow, with a strong impression of English breakfast tea.
Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $16
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Magnificent Wine Company 2009 House
Wine Chardonnay (Columbia Valley).
There are some toasty, Graham cracker highlights in the
nose, leading into a full, round wine with lemon verbena
accents. Fruity, soft and broad, with apple and melon.
Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $11
Stonecap 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia
Valley). Clean and fresh, with light citrus and
apple flavors. A pleasant, somewhat beery flavor. Best
Buy. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $8
PINOT GRIS
Pacific Rim 2010 Sweet Riesling (Columbia Valley). Plenty sweet with alcohol at just
8.5%, yet dry enough to accompany a main course of
poultry or seafood in a fruit sauce, this round and pleasing wine has a mix of stone fruits and juicy acidity. Best
Buy. —P.G.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $10
Kennedy Shah 2009 Dubrul Vineyard
Reserve Riesling (Yakima Valley). A rare
Riesling from the excellent Dubrul vineyard, this tastes
of lemons and apples, with crisp acidity underlying the
sharply-defined fruit. Good penetration, with hints of
orange peel and grapefruit, along with a drying minerality. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $36
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Willow Crest 2010 Estate Grown Pinot
Gris (Yakima Valley). A strong spice scent
comes with a hint of vanilla bean. Fruit flavors of lime
and fresh-cut pear are framed by an underlying minerality. As always with Willow Crest Pinot Gris, there is
good penetration and length. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $10
Waterbrook 2010 Pinot Gris (Columbia
Valley). Clean, complex aromatics offer elegant notes of jasmine, cucumber and melon. This is
an interesting Pinot Gris, light but not simple, with lingering floral/apple flavors and impeccable balance. Best
Buy. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $11
RIESLING
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Gamache Vintners 2009 Estate Riesling
(Columbia Valley). With 1.7% residual sugar keeping the alcohol at 12.8%, this fresh and lively
Riesling, from veteran growers, has the complex mix of
citrus, pineapple, rind and rock that puts Washington’s
Pacific Rim 2010 Riesling (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 10.
Waterbrook 2010 Riesling (Columbia
Valley). Though rather high in residual sugar
(4.4%), this Riesling balances it against generous acidity. The wine strikes a dynamic tension, with white peach
fruit played out against mineral flavors of wet stone and
some citrus rind. Good, clean, balanced, moderately long and ultimately not too sweet for main courses.
Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $11
Willow Crest 2010 Estate Grown Riesling
(Yakima Valley). A delightful wine, low in alcohol and done in a style reminiscent of an elegant German kabinett. Stone fruits anchor an off-dry mix of fruit
and acid, with a hint of honeysuckle livening up the finish. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $10
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Magnificent Wine Company 2010 The
Originals Riesling (Columbia Valley).
Even better in the mouth than the nose, where a little spritz adds lift and pleasure, against a lightly chalky
minerality. Very fresh, this is a perfect-by-the glass pour,
with apple and white peach fruit. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $11
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Wedge Mountain 2010 Dry Riesling
(Washington). Wedge Mountain makes a
Riesling that is as bone dry as any Riesling can possibly be. It’s consistent, and styled for slurping with fresh
oysters more than anything. Mouth-puckering acidity,
lean citrus fruits and a lingering sense of sucking on a
ripe lemon. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $18
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Three Rivers 2009 Riesling (Columbia
Valley). Sourced entirely from the Bacchus
vineyard, this is an uneasy mix of dry and sweet, as if
both styles were trying to come out in a single wine. The
residual sugar is grainy and sweet, not quite integrated
into the tart fruit flavors of nectarine and apricot. —P.G.
abv: 12.3%
Price: $15
SAUVIGNON BLANC
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Barrister 2010 Klipsun Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Red Mountain). This is a gorgeous wine, so good in fact it makes one wonder why
Sauv Blanc hasn’t yet become a superstar grape for
Washington. Lush tree fruits, preserved lemon, Satsuma orange and highlights of honeysuckle and citrus oil
keep the wine moving and changing. It simply fills the
mouth with luscious flavor. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $19
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Cadaretta 2010 sbs Sauvignon BlancSémillon (Columbia Valley). The best sbs
yet, this riveting and succulent blend of 75% Sauvignon
Blanc and 25% Sémillon is a spicy, tangy, racy wine with
thrilling flavors across the full spectrum. From nettle to
gooseberry, citrus and grapefruit, it has a lush texture
and bracing minerality that persist through a long, intense finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $23
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with plenty of acidity that does not turn at all sour. Best
Buy. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $9
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Three Rivers 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
(Horse Heaven Hills). The blend is 83%
Sauvignon Blanc and 17% Sémillon, sourced from vineyards located on Red Mountain and in the Columbia
Basin. A mix of sweet herb, lemongrass and citrus scents
and flavors, this is a crisp, stylish and smooth-drinking
white. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $16
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Waterbrook 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). Pretty, fruity and round, with
good varietal character and fruit flavors running from
tree fruits to tropical. There is also a palate-pleasing,
spun sugar highlight, suggesting a trace of residual sugar has been left in the wine. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $11
VIOGNIER
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Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Viognier (Columbia Valley). Fragrant
and varietal, with sharp-edged scents and flavors. Lemon polish, pine needle and citrus rind give it a compelling pungency. It broadens out in the midpalate, with
stone fruit flavors piling on. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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Gamache Vintners 2010 Velida Estate
Viognier (Columbia Valley). This estategrown Viognier sort of sneaks up on your palate. At
first quite dry and slightly bitter, it slowly brings in subtle suggestions of jasmine and gin, citrus rind and wet
stone. Still, a bit severe, but interesting. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $18
Apex Ascent 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). Minerality, hints of earthy
loam and a whiff of barnyard augment this nicely-nuanced wine. Complex, crisp and lingering, it’s balanced
and threaded with mixed citrus, green apple and some
grape skin flavors. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $11
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OTHER WHITES
Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley).
A generous mix of lime, rock, pineapple, vanilla wafer
and still more detailed notes that suggest orange, papaya and lemon verbena. Still young and a bit hard; this
fine value should be cellarable for up to five years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
Price: $18
abv: 13.5%
Ott & Murphy 2009 Viognier (Columbia
Valley). An uneasy mix of grapes and flavors.
Peaches and apricots—more skin than flesh—seem
to hit a hard wall and just stop. Can a Viognier have a
"dumb" phase? That is what seems to be going on here.
—P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $20
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Woodinville Wine Cellars 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 7.
Olsen Estates 2009 Blanc des Coteaux (Yakima Valley). A white Rhône-style
blend—62% Roussanne, 34% Viognier and 4% Marsanne—all estate grown, and done with Olsen’s customary polish and style. The fruit is deep and perfectly ripened, with powerful flavors of tree fruits and tropical
highlights. A very fine effort, right through the lingering
finish. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $12
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Washington Hills 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Washington). Aromatically inviting, with
a lovely mix of sweet grass and light, fresh sugar pea
scents. Tart, spicy passionfruit, grapefruit and starfruit
flavors contribute to a lovely bottle of Sauvignon Blanc,
Dowsett Family 2010 Celilo Vineyard
Gewürztraminer (Columbia Gorge). Chris
Dowsett makes just a single Gewürztraminer each year,
always from Celilo vines planted in 1982. 2010 was the
coolest vintage in two decades at this high-altitude site.
If you love searing acidity, married to varietal spice, rose
petals, lemons, grapefruit, star fruit and gooseberries,
you are in for a treat. Fermented in neutral French oak
and left on the lees, this could age for decades. Cellar
Selection. —P.G.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $22
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L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Chenin Blanc (Columbia Valley). Wonderful as usual, this stellar Chenin Blanc, from 30-year-old old vines at two different Yakima valley sites, is dense, ripe and complex—
words you rarely see associated with reviews of domestic Chenin Blanc. A riot of melon, citrus and peach,
with juicy acidity and refreshing minerality. Best Buy.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Isenhower 2010 White Paintbrush (Yakima Valley). Roughly four-fifths Roussanne and
one-fifth Marsanne, this crisp, clean and elegant white
wine is underscored with bracing minerality. The fruit
suggests gentle flavors of pineapple and papaya, mango
and melon, a lovely melding of citrus and tropical. A
pleasing wine with modest alcohol and plenty of finesse.
—P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $19
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Waterbrook 2010 Mélange Blanc (Columbia Valley). A Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier
blend, with aromas that are most reminiscent of Viognier and Gewürz with that mix of crisp citrus and bright,
floral fruit. Packed with tasty fruit flavor of melon, apricot and peach, this lingers gracefully through the finish.
Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $13
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Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Roussanne (Columbia Valley). Elegant and fairly light, with suggestions of white peach
and lemon rind. There is a hint of bitter astringency,
but the pretty, roundly fruity midpalate compensates,
and with ample breathing time, it fills in nicely. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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Goose Ridge 2009 g3 (Columbia Valley).
A simple, five-grape blend. Perfectly sound sipping white, clean and short. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $14
ROSÉS
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Cayuse 2009 Edith Rosé (Walla Walla
Valley). Made from 100% Grenache, this is a
pale, pretty copper/onion skin color. It offers stunning
aromas of strawberry, citrus peel, tree fruits and minerals. It’s whole cluster fermented, from vines that have
been picked and grown specifically to be a rosé—not a
saignée. Great concentration and power. —P.G.
abv: 12.3%
Price: $35
90
Trust 2010 Rosé of Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). There is just the slightest
trace of sweetness in this rosé of Cabernet Franc, and
it’s perfectly positioned to round out the dusty tannins.
WineMag.com | 67
The fruit mixes together brambly berry and blue plum,
with a rich and lingering finish. A compelling wine given
its humble aspirations. —P.G.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $16
cassis, coffee, licorice and more. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Alder Ridge Vineyard Grenache Rosé (Horse Heaven
Hills). Finished with just a bare trace of sweetness,
this delightful, fruity Grenache rosé mixes fresh raspberry and pale cherry fruit with hints of toasted cracker.
Round and tangy, it’s a perfect sipping wine for outdoor
dining. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
Adams Bench 2007 The V Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This is right
down the center of the house style—plenty of new oak,
deeply fruited, dark and smoky, with high alcohol and a
strong, smoky bourbon barrel flavor. It’s a classic steakhouse wine. Some high-toned fruit puts it all in focus.
For those who love big, tannic, oaky Cabs, this one delivers. —P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $42
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Dusted Valley 2010 Ramblin’ Rosé (Walla
Walla Valley). This vintage is sourced entirely
from the estate vineyard, a mix of four Rhône varieties.
Cherry red, fruity and round, it’s a crisp and stylish rosé
for near-term drinking. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $20
WASHINGTON REDS
CABERNETS & BLENDS
96
Cayuse 2008 Widowmaker Cabernet
Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Superb
sculpture and definition in this compact and lightly
funky evocation of pure Cabernet Sauvignon. The deep,
dense, super ripe berry flavors are framed within a bouquet of dried herbs, pepper, mineral, astringent tannins,
and a crisp mix of earth, wood and plant flavors. Superb
length and ageability. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $70
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Cayuse 2008 Camaspelo Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). Good
concentration, with tight-knit purple and black fruit flavors, a streak of espresso, and the characteristic herb
and mineral flavors of the vintage. Very fresh, clean,
muscular and still compact, with concentrated blackberry fruit that pops up and broadens out in the finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $70
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Januik 2008 Reserve Red (Columbia Valley). Januik’s reserve is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc.
Sourced from Champoux and Weinbau, just three barrels were made. The fruit is deeply flavored with black
cherry and cassis, and the tannins seem darker, earthier,
toastier and overall fuller than any of the other excellent
Januik reds. Still young and tight, this promises to blossom over time with floral, earth, barrel and spice highlights. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
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L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Seven Hills Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley).
From the oldest block of the estate’s Seven Hills Vineyard, this pure Cabernet opens with intense aromas
of mountain fruit. Bramble, light herb, cement, black
cherry and cassis combine in a polished, elegant wine
that probes deeply into the palate. Flavors abound—
Januik 2008 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain).
Across the lineup, Januik’s Cabernets are steely, sharpedged and cellar-worthy. Which makes this Ciel du Cheval bottling, which is usually that way to begin, perhaps
the most archetypical of them all. Think black cherry
with nerves of steel, set on a foundation of pure rock.
Stick it in the cellar for another decade or more—if you
can keep your hands off it. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $40
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(Walla Walla Valley). For full review see page 4.
Adams Bench 2008 The V Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This is the winery’s flagship Cabernet. It’s full-bodied, with classic
Bing cherry Cabernet fruit as a base flavor; then a wrapping of toast and broad, astringent tannins. There’s ample acidity to lift it a bit, and finishing layers of coffee,
licorice, smoke, olive and loam. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
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Adams Bench 2006 V Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Washington). This has lovely
and deep black fruits, with smoke and toast from the
barrel aging. There’s a streak of caramel and a hint of
coconut, good balance and length, and less obvious burn
and astringency than the more recent vintages. —P.G.
abv: 14.55%
Price: $42
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Adams Bench 2008 Reckoning (Columbia Valley). This is finished in a dense, dark,
super-saturated style, and aged in two thirds new
French oak barrels. Grainy, smoky, ripe tannins wrap
around deep cassis, black cherry and black olive, with
occasional whiffs of truffle. For those who love a blockbuster style, this wine rocks. Just a little heat in the finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $39
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Andrew Will 2008 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard (Red Mountain). Winemaker Chris Camarda is antiformulaic; his wines in 2008 feature radically different blends from the 2007s. This is a third
each Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cab Franc. It
reflects the vineyard’s penchant for tart berry fruit set
atop astringent, mineral-driven tannins. It’s tight and
dense, with vertical power. Flavors roll gracefully into a
medium-length finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
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Baer 2008 Arctos (Columbia Valley).
Baer’s Arctos blend is about three fifths Cabernet Sauvignon, and here the grape shows less fat, and
more structure than in the previous vintage. It’s a better
wine, sleek and yet fruity, with a pleasing mix of blackberry and cassis. The tannins are forceful, herbal, and
sturdy, giving the finish a firm spine. The grace notes
of clove and coffee and loam continue to add interest
as the wine lingers through a dense finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $41
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J. Bookwalter 2008 Foreshadow Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). In an
effort to further differentiate the Foreshadow Merlot
from the Foreshadow Cabernet, winemaker John Bookwalter has kept each out of the other’s blend. This is
a riveting, complex, supersized wine, with alcohol over
15% and plenty of intriguing barrel flavors. The black
cherry-berry fruit is swathed in spice, chocolate, cedar
and coffee, complex and well-crafted. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $42
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Adams Bench 2008 Red Willow Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). This
single-vineyard wine is three quarters Cabernet Sauvignon and one quarter Merlot. The tannins are quite
drying, but the fruit is outstanding. Berries, plums, and
cassis, streaked with iron filings, and a deep, penetrating, dark, chewy finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $60
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Adams Bench 2006 Reckoning (Washington). This vintage of Reckoning has Malbec in the blend (it was subsequently replaced with Cab
Franc), and a nice streak of herbal/tobacco flavor with
aggressive tannins. The (relatively) lower alcohol cuts
the sensation of alcohol burn, and the fruit is characteristically dark, sappy, compact and subservient to the
dense, grainy tannins. A big wine for big wine lovers.
—P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $34
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Baer 2008 Ursa (Columbia Valley). Merlot
and Cab Franc are the stars of this five-grape
Bordeaux-style blend. It begins sweetly, with a pretty
mix of ripe berries, spicy toast and dark chocolate. The
flavors spread across the palate, adding hints of black
pepper and sandalwood. Lush, deep, and slightly exotic, this is a real palate-pleaser. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $35
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Isenhower 2008 Batchelor’s Button Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Somehow the label’s misspelling of Bachelor’s Button slipped
by the authorities. Surplus T aside, this is a generous
wine, whose plummy, peppery fruit is dotted with details of herb, spicecake and chocolate. Smooth, velvety
tannins add to the pleasure. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $29
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Isenhower 2008 Wild Thyme Cabernet
Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). A very pretty
nose sends up scents of flowers and brambly red fruits.
The palate is consistent, buoyed by juicy acidity, with
complex fruit and flower grace notes. It’s all free-run
juice, aged in 100% neutral French oak barrels. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $29
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J. Bookwalter 2008 Conner Lee Vineyard
Conflict Red (Columbia Valley). Saturated and velvety as soon as the cork is pulled, this dense,
dark, supple wine is half Cabernet Sauvignon, about
40% Merlot and the rests Malbec. Sourced entirely
from the Conner Lee vineyard, it showcases the winery’s signature style, mixing black fruits, exotic spices,
hints of dried herb, and darker streaks of espresso and
toast. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $50
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Januik 2008 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills).
Classic black cherry fruit anchors this Cabernet from
the seminal Champoux vineyard. There is also a strong
vein of minerality, etched in herb and hinting at licorice.
This is very young and tight, but poised for a long life
ahead. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $50
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Waterbrook 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Tight, dark, blue
and black fruits define this cool-climate Cabernet. It’s
supple and spicy, with firm but ripe tannins. The fruit
is concentrated in a tight core, but persistent and resonant into a lengthy finish. Flavors mix mountain berry,
bramble, wild herb, pencil shavings and peppery spice.
It needs mroe time, but it has the substance and muscle
to last. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $20
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Adams Bench 2007 Red Willow Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). Has
a Red Willow Cab ever shown this much dense cassis
and black cherry fruit, with such high alcohol, massive,
chewy tannins and a very long finish? It’s almost over
the top, but then there are the lovely fruits—a riot of
berries and cassis—along with toast and iron, hints of
earth and olive. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $48
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Adams Bench 2007 Reckoning (Washington). This is very dense, with a strong Bourbon barrel flavor component. The fruit is tight, the
structure is balanced, and the mouthfeel massive. The
tannins are matched to the density of the fruit, and add
both mass and texture, though some tasters will definitely notice some burn in the finish. —P.G.
Price: $34
abv: 14.6%
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Andrew Will 2008 Sorella (Horse Heaven Hills). This could be labeled Cabernet
Sauvignon, which is 80% of the blend. It’s all old vine
Champoux vineyard fruit, with a beguiling blend of
herb, bramble, spice, cedar and chocolate. Smooth and
polished, still wound a bit tight, and fairly astringent.
—P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
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Andrew Will 2008 Two Blondes Vineyard
(Yakima Valley). Licorice-laden strawberry
and raspberry fruit anchors a wine that enters softly and
expands into a full-bodied midpalate. There is a lovely
melding of bramble, berry, underbrush, barrel toast and
mocha, and a satin-smooth finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Dusted Valley 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Walla Walla Valley). Stiff and tannic when
first opened (all Dusted Valley wines are screwcap
sealed), this breathes out into a ripe mix of deep purple
fruits and barrel flavors. Cassis, vanilla, baking chocolate and other barrel-aged accents (both French and
American oak is used) keep it interesting. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $30
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Gamache
Vintners
2006
Reserve
Gamache Champoux Vineyard Select’
Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Traditionally a 50/50 blend of old vines from both vineyards,
this has benefitted from extra bottle age. Big and somewhat blocky, it opens with a mix of inviting aromas—
sage, desert flower, and black cherry. From there it fills
the mouth with tart red fruits and more herbs and blossoms, with proportionate tannins. Cellar Selection.
—P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $40
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Stottle 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse
Heaven Hills). This is pure, Elerding vineyard
Cabernet, done in a spicy, tart, tight style. The fruit is
absolutely lovely, and the oak treatment (half new) not
at all intrusive. Young, tight, tart and incredibly compact, this lovely expression of Washington Cabernet can
be enjoyed now, or cellared for up to a decade. Cellar
Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $30
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Woodinville Wine Cellars 2008 Double
Vision Red (Columbia Valley). This is half
Syrah and half Cabernet Sauvignon, a popular style in
Washington. Done well, as it is here, it marries the black
fruits and herbal highlights of the Cab to the earthy,
spicy flavors of Syrah. Still young and almost grapey, it is
finished with ripe, substantial tannins. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $40
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Apex at Alder Ridge 2008 Alder Ridge
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse
Heaven Hills). Young and savory, this cool-climate
Cabernet mixes tart berry fruit with herbal (tarragon)
highlights. Ageworthy, tight and clean, with darker
notes of black olive and loam. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $40
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J. Bookwalter 2008 Protagonist Red (Columbia Valley). Half Cabernet Sauvignon, and
half Syrah, this vintage of Protagonist is entirely different (in both blend and vineyard sources) from the 2007.
Sharp and peppery from the cool vintage Syrah, it introduces intriguing scents and accents of cayenne and bitter chocolate. The herbal flavors are more evident than
in the other J. Bookwalter releases from 2008, but well
blended and balanced. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $50
Januik 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Mike Januik calls 2008 the
most perfect harvest weather in his 25 years working
in the Columbia Valley. This sleek and beautifully proportioned wine has deep black cherry fruit, with smoky
espresso flavors and moderately thick tannins. Substantial yet with appealing purity, it’s a perfect steak wine
and also one to stick in the cellar for a decade or so.
—P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $30
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L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Apogee (Walla Walla Valley). A Cabernet-dominated, Bordeaux-style blend, this peppery
red has a complex mix of earth and spice scents around
tart red fruit. Notes of toast and cinnamon, sharp acidity, and tannins with residual green tea flavors keep the
finish interesting. —P.G.
Price: $50
abv: 14.5%
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Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2008 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Bright and
spicy, this offers a plump mix of cherry, plum and cassis fruit, with loads of chocolaty barrel flavors wrapped
all around. There is enough acidity to support the fruit
and oak, and provide the structure for medium-term aging. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $35
Balboa 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
(Walla Walla Valley). Balboa does an especially good job with Cabernet, and this sleek, supple,
fruit-driven example is a fine new addition to the lineup.
From estate-grown fruit, it packs a mix of blue and purple berries into its core, backed with satiny tannins and
a dusting of cocoa. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $24
Gamache Vintners 2007 Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). All estategrown Cabernet, this textural, smoky wine weaves its
pristine black currant fruit into a more complex display
with herbal highlights and a sweet, toasty finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $28
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Goose Ridge 2007 Sol Duc Meritage (Columbia Valley). Two thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, this Bordeaux blend is the best bottle from Goose
Ridge. The fruit is sappy and strong, with rich, ripe berry and cassis flavors. Tannins are firm and lightly spiced
with fresh herb. The wine has depth and bite, the potential to age over the next half decade or more, but it’s
drinking well right now. —P.G.
Price: $50
abv: 14.6%
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Estate Perigee (Walla Walla Valley). A fivegrape Bordeaux-style blend from old vines, this has fruit
that is almost ephemeral. Brambly raspberry fruit and
a mineral-driven core, spiked by citrusy acidity, create
a penetrating, elegant wine that finishes with a hint of
pickle barrel. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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Patterson Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Behind a Plain
Jane label is a wine with real force. Densely packed with
kirsch and chocolate flavors, this wine rests on top of
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bright acidity, that seems to punch the fruit down and
into the palate, while setting up the toasty barrel flavors
and taking some of the rough edge off the tannins. Decant it. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $30
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Robert Ramsay 2008 Upland Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). The
Upland Vineyards are in the heart of the Snipes Mountain AVA, a subregion of the listed Yakima Valley. This
almost (98%) pure Cabernet has a peppery note, speckled through bright flavors of berries and black currant.
There’s a suggestion of moist earth, but the fruit is really
the star here. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
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Tero Estates 2008 S.T. (Columbia Valley).
The initials stand for Super Tuscan, after which
this almost 50-50 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet
Sauvignon models itself. It’s an elegant wine with subtle
power, a mélange of baked plum, fig, raisins, chocolate
and black tea. Good balance and persistence, with plenty of alcohol-driven power. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $36
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Woodinville Wine Cellars 2008 Indomitable (Columbia Valley). This is three quarters Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 13% Cabernet Franc, a big wine, with the sort of rich black fruits
and chewy, muscular tannins that usually come with
skyrocketing levels of alcohol. Surprisingly, this lists at
a moderate 14.2%; it’s also notable for the rich, generous barrel flavors of smoke, coffee and licorice. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
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Adams Bench 2008 Mays Discovery Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven
Hills). Deep black cherry and cassis fruit seems a bit
overloaded at the moment with bourbon barrel flavors
and alcohol. But there is ample power and density to
carry the wine, for those who love the blockbuster style.
This does not yet have the balance of the Adams Bench
wines from 2006 and 2007—maybe more time in the
bottle will help smooth it out. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $52
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Andrew Will 2008 Champoux Vineyard
(Horse Heaven Hills). A complete reversal
from 2007, with Cabernet Sauvignon back as the principal grape. Deep plum and black cherry flavors are driving this wine, which opens with a quick burst of juicy
fruits, swathed in tart, citrusy acids. Though one third
new French oak was used, there is little evidence of it
in the mouth. Perhaps the wine is entering a dumb
phase, but it was difficult to get much out of it, even after many hours of breathing time. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
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Bunchgrass 2008 Triolet (Walla Walla
Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc and
Petit Verdot comprise this blend. Berry flavors dominate, with a noticeable streak of smoke and ash running
down the spine. It’s a sound and solid effort, though the
finish lacks a bit of lift. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
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Canoe Ridge 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). Great structure, depth
and polish are the talking points of this wine that remains stubbornly young, tight and primary, with Bordeaux-like herbaceousness. There is plenty of power
and future potential—if the light, pickle barrel and
herbal rawness can be tamed. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
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Januik 2008 Seven Hills Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). From
relatively high altitude grapes, this is a steely, sharpedged wine, cut with precise flavors of stone, metal,
wild berry and hints of pickle barrel, perhaps from aging in American oak? It still tastes very young, so cellar
it or decant it. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $40
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Sparkman 2008 Kingpin Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Almost entirely
sourced from Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet, and aged for
22 months in two thirds new French oak, this powerful
wine is loaded with aromas of toast, mocha, nougat, and
latte—all good, but needing a few more years of bottle
age to meld with the deep berry and pretty cassis fruit.
Still finding its way, with green tea flavors in the tannins.
A good one to lock away for a few years. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $56
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Sparkman 2008 Ruby Leigh (Red Mountain). This is 42% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Franc,
17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec and 5% Petit
Verdot. The careful blend and great vineyard sources
are somewhat obscured by the almost-15% alcohol, and
some stemmy flavors manage to creep into the finish.
Herb, barrel spices and rather austere red fruits put the
emphasis on the Cabernet components. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $42
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Three Rivers 2007 Champoux Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven
Hills). The Champoux vineyard’s classic black cherry
fruit is here driven deep into a seam of what can only
be described as dense rock. Astringent and dark, with a
dusty, chalky character, this seam of graphite continues
on through the finish. Reminiscent of some mediumripe Bordeaux, this should be drunk with a thick, juicy
steak. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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Apex 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This is structured around pretty,
clean, primary fruit flavors. It’s forward and accessible,
with dusty blueberry and pale black cherry most prominent. Pleasant drinking, though not as concentrated as
the Apex Merlot. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $30
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Boomtown 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Washington). Solid fruit anchors this value offering. The Cabernet is enhanced with 6% Petit
Verdot, creating a fairly tannic wine that is loaded with
herbal highlights, along with licorice, clove, vanilla and
tobacco. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $15
Gamache Vintners 2008 Boulder (Columbia Valley). Tasty, toasty and tart, this tableready blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot,
16% Cab Franc, 8% Syrah and 4% Malbec is entirely
estate-grown. Aged in three quarters new American and
French oak, it has full-flavored berry fruit and generous
amounts of chocolate and vanilla. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $18
Goose Ridge 2007 Vireo (Columbia Valley). Vireo is a Cabernet-Syrah-Merlot blend,
made in limited quantities and noticeably riper than
the winery’s g3 version of the same blend. It’s bigger
in terms of alcohol and a little riper with raspberry and
cherry fruit, but there is a hint of drying bitterness in the
tannins. This is a food wine, not a sipping wine. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $30
(Columbia Valley). The grapes are sourced
from older vines located throughout the Columbia Valley. This is solid and not flashy, with wild brambly berries, earth and loam, a streak of woody bark, and overall
a Bordeaux-like character. It was aged 22 months in one
third new oak barrels. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Sparkman 2008 Stella Mae (Red Mountain). Stella Mae is three fifths Cabernet Sauvignon, with 21% Petit Verdot and 16% Merlot the other
main components. Aged in 50% new French Taransaud
barrels, its delicious toasty flavors seem to overpower
the light fruit flavors of watermelon and strawberry.
—P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $42
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Three Rivers 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). A hard, tart, tightly
wound Cabernet, with juicy berry flavors at the heart of
the wine. This needs decanting and/or another couple
of years in the bottle, but it’s well made and shows some
real muscle for a Cabernet at this price. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $21
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Three Rivers 2008 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). Tasted side by side with the winery’s 2007
Champoux Cabernet, this shares a stylistic astringency,
but with a bit more forward cherry/berry fruit. Where
the 2007 might be seen as more substantial, the 2008
is more approachable and ready for near-term enjoyment. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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Trust 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). From widely scattered vineyards
and AVAs, this nicely aged Cabernet shows fig, black
cherry and cassis fruit flavors that lead into darker,
earthier tannins. Aged in half new/half neutral French
oak, it’s got some peppery highlights as well, then thins
out through the finish. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $36
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Novelty Hill 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). A pleasant, though somewhat generic Cabernet. Light cherry and berry fruit,
firm tannins and the acidity to carry it. There’s an herbal
streak that brings forest floor and moist earth into the
finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
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Elsom Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). This Cabernet blend includes about 20% Syrah in the mix, which perhaps contributes to a lack of varietal character. It seems to be in
a dumb phase, with no specific aromas and nondescript
fruit. The finish turns acidic and chalky. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
and seems poised for a long life ahead. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $39
That toasty oak wraps around brambly berries, sweet
spice, black cherry and plum pudding flavors. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
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Dusted Valley 2008 Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). For those who love untamed,
unbridled, somewhat rough and raw Cabernet Franc,
here’s your wine. It rocks the mouth with a classic mix of
Franc-ly inviting flavors—flower, stem, earth, herb and
wild berry. A wonderful jumble. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $42
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Milbrandt 2008 Traditions Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This was a cool,
acidic vintage, and this has a fairly strong herbal streak,
along with broad flavors of vanilla and tobacco. The
Cabernet fruit falls a bit short of fully ripe, and the oak
treatment does not completely mask the bitterness.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Wilridge 2009 Estate Mélange Rouge
(Columbia Valley). This five grape Bordeauxstyle blend has a sharp, spicy aroma, a strong suggestion
of clove. The fruit is quite light and tastes of strawberries, but quickly is overtaken by the tannins and the barrel flavors. Drink soon. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $29
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Bridgman 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). Watermelon and strawberry fruit flavors, a bit faint, suggests grapes that were
not quite ripe. Perfectly quaffable, with lightly earthy
flavors and a finishing streak of herb. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $13
CABERNET FRANC
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Januik 2008 Weinbau Vineyard Cabernet
Franc (Wahluke Slope). An elegant, supple,
toasty, very tasty Cabernet Franc from one of the oldest vineyards on the Wahluke Slope. Winemaker Mike
Januik carefully sculpts his flavors, running threads of
black cherry, baking chocolate, espresso, loam, sandalwood, caramel and coconut through the core of this exceptional wine. Drink young or cellar and let it evolve—
it’s a winner either way. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $35
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Gamache Vintners 2008 Estate Cabernet
Franc (Columbia Valley). Pure Cabernet
Franc, boasting truly ripe, lovely red and purple berry fruits, married to peppery highlights. The expected
herbal underbrush is there, but tamed and wrapped in
polished tannins with a toasty finish. Fine effort. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $24
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Three Rivers 2008 Weinbau Vineyard
Cabernet Franc (Wahluke Slope). A fine,
sappy, crisply structured Cabernet Franc from one of
the oldest sites in the Wahluke Slope AVA. There is a
wildness to the brambly fruit, laced with peppery herbs
and elevated with bright acids. Everything is in balance,
Isenhower 2008 Weinbau Vineyard Road
Less Traveled Cabernet Franc (Wahluke
Slope). Intended as a Loire Valley-style Cab Franc,
this can’t suppress its roundly fruity core. Cherries and
herbs, a hint of roasted tomato, plenty of acid and some
pretty baking spices pile on the details. An interesting
wine, though ageability is hard to predict. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $29
Trust 2008 Cabernet Franc (Columbia
Valley). A fruity, light take on Cabernet Franc,
this shows melon and strawberry flavors galore. It opens
broadly and full across the palate, with pleasing freshness. Best served lightly chilled, as an opening course
(and not too heavy) red. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $32
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Cayuse 2008 God Only Knows Grenache
(Walla Walla Valley). Effusively fruity, bursting with ripe scents and flavors of berries and cherries.
There is an interesting underlayer of earthy peat moss,
just as an accent. The concentration is exceptional,
dense and layered and constantly reinventing itself as it
rolls through a spicy, herbal finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $70
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Dusted Valley 2009 Grenache (Columbia
Valley). A delicious bottle, focused and deep,
with plush cherry/berry fruit. It’s crisply defined and
nicely balanced, framing its substantial alcohol with just
a hint of barrel toast (only about one sixth was aged in
new oak). —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $28
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Novelty Hill 2008 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Grenache (Columbia Valley). Plump
and juicy flavors of bramble, red currant and raspberry
lead into a smooth, satisfying middle with a streak of
caramel running right through it. Excellent flavor and
persistence for such a young wine. Just a little thin as
it fades. —P.G.
Price: $28
abv: 14.6%
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Gamache Vintners 2007 Estate Malbec
(Columbia Valley). This was previewed more
than a year ago, and needed the extra time to fill out and
show its best. Treated a a pure varietal wine, the Malbec
takes well to extended aging in three quarters new oak.
Three Rivers 2008 Malbec (Columbia
Valley). Winemaker Holly Turner has a good
touch with Malbec, finding the soft fruit core in the
midst of the herbal scents and tannins. Plums, brambleberries and a dusting of licorice keep the wine interesting on through the smoky, earthy, extended finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $29
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Vineyard Malbec (Horse Heaven Hills). A
jumble of toasted grain, raspberries, red currants and
eucalyptus, it’s tart, spicy, juicy, clear, clean and bright,
with expressive raspberry and cranberry fruit. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $40
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Novelty Hill 2008 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Malbec (Columbia Valley). This
Washington Malbec captures some of the high-altitude
finesse and structure of the better Argentine versions.
Bright fruit, tangy acids, firm tannins, and a high-toned
profile make this a fine choice for grilled meats. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $28
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Stottle 2008 Malbec (Horse Heaven
Hills). Pluck a tart berry off a Puget Sound
hillside and you’ll get this sort of flavor. Not quite fully
ripe, but complex and earthy, with peppery spice. For a
Malbec it works, bringing a sharpness and focus to the
wine. This could almost pass for a Loire valley red, but
for the deep fruitiness. At 12.8% alcohol, it’s quite impressive. —P.G.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $28
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Olsen Estates 2008 Malbec (Yakima Valley). A fascinating Malbec, with 14% Syrah in
the blend, that seems earthy, herbal and tannic at first,
but then sweeps across the palate with deliciously sweet
blackberry fruit. The berry flavors are pure and perfectly ripe, but not yet completely integrated with the
earthier elements. Give this one some extra bottle age.
—P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Waterbrook 2008 Malbec (Columbia Valley). Pungent and slightly soapy, quickly moving into sweet and sappy blueberry compote aromas
and flavors. This wine really shines in the nose. Alcohol
is posted at a moderate 13.2%, but this wine has more
complexity than that would suggest. —P.G.
Price: $30
abv: 13.2%
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Balboa 2009 Estate Malbec (Walla Walla
Valley). Firm and detailed, with a mix of very
tart berry fruit, and earthier notes of stem and soil. The
tannins have been tamed and the balance is just right
for a wine that does not try to do too much with the
minimal ripeness it has. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $22
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Elsom Cellars 2007 Malbec (Columbia
Valley). Peppery and bright, this carries tart
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flavors of wild berries and mountain herbs. The penetrating peppery character is its most defining attribute.
—P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
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Elsom Cellars 2008 Malbec (Columbia
Valley). Dark and thick in the mouth, this onedimensional Malbec has a whiff of barnyard and leather
around blocky black fruits. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
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Milbrandt 2008 The Estates Malbec
(Wahluke Slope). The grape’s fruit flavors
of blackberry and black cherry are nicely focused and
rounded, but the vanilla and tobacco components, perhaps from aggressive oak treatment, bring in a bit of bitterness to the tannins. It’s a fight to the finish—fruit or
tannin—and too soon to pick a winner. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
MERLOT
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Estate Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). L’Ecole
is one of the three partners in the Seven Hills vineyard,
and sources its grapes from some of the oldest vines.
The blend includes 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10%
Cabernet Franc, tight and spicy at first, then opening
into a deeply flavored, brambly wine with a vivid mix of
berry and stone. Firm tannins anchor it solidly and the
overall structure suggests it could age for at least a decade, maybe two. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $37
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J. Bookwalter 2008 Foreshadow Merlot
(Columbia Valley). In this cooler vintage,
winemaker John Bookwalter has introduced Syrah into
his Merlot blend, along with smaller portions of Bordeaux varietals. A complex, satiny wine, spiced with
herb and eucalyptus highlights, lush black fruits, and
toasty espresso in the finish. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $40
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L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Merlot (Columbia
Valley). Not your average mid-priced Merlot,
this complex and well-crafted blend includes 12% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec. Young,
sappy red fruits lead into a wine with depth and substance, annotated with highlights of citrus and steel.
Nuances keep coming on... black cherry, licoriceq and
iron filings. A delight. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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Apex 2008 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Tart
and tannic, with aromas that promise deep black
fruits touched with smoky earth. A Merlot for Cabernet
lovers, with a Cab Franc-like streak of coffee around
powerful, dark fruit flavors of berry and cassis. Give this
a lot of breathing time, or pop it in the cellar for at least
five years. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $30
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Barrister 2009 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). This young wine saw plenty of new oak,
and those toasty, appealing scents and flavors are right
up front, wrapped around pretty plum and berry fruit. It
has a round, plump middle, polished tannins and plenty
of initial mouth appeal. Hints of barnyard and green tea
seep into the finish. The wine improved perceptibly on
the second day. —P.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $27
rough edges have been softened by aging in neutral oak.
—P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
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Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2008 Merlot
(Columbia Valley). Smooth as silk, its lush
fruit seamlessly integrated with generous barrel flavors,
this oak-aged, ripe Merlot marries its deep, black cherry fruit to generous layers of chocolate and caramel. It
spent 24 months in barrel. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
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Three Rivers 2007 Champoux Vineyard
Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). Quite tart
and tannic, this wine, though four years old, might have
come from a much more recent vintage. It’s deep and
concentrated with raspberry and red currant fruit, racy
acidity, thick tannins, and barrel notes of charcoal and
chocolate. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $39
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Waterbrook 2008 Reserve Merlot (Columbia Valley). Though this is pure Merlot, it
is structured much like a Cabernet Sauvignon. It shows
more depth than breadth, with smoky black fruits, plum
and black cherry, and a pleasing purity. It finishes with
a distinct herbal edge, slightly bitter. Can it gain a bit
of mass with further bottle age? Time will tell. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $20
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Milbrandt 2008 Traditions Merlot (Columbia Valley). This has the assertive vanilla and
tobacco flavors that often come with certain oak treatments; these are friendly, familiar components of many
inexpensive California bottlings. The difference here
is that there is real, substantial fruit at the heart of the
wine—it’s bursting with berries and cherries. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Stonecap 2009 Merlot (Columbia Valley).
A delicious bottle, that starts with first-rate, estate-grown fruit—80% Merlot, 15% Syrah, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Lots of pretty cherry fruit, wrapped in
smooth, chocolaty tannins. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $8
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Gamache Vintners 2007 Estate Merlot
(Columbia Valley). Broadly flavorful when
first sipped, this turns aggressively oaky in the mouth.
The liquorous barrel flavors will please some tasters,
while others will wonder where the fruit went? —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Bridgman 2008 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Deep red fruit is at the core of this nicely balanced, no-frills Merlot. A fine every-day red, with
enough muscle to qualify as almost Cabernet-like.
—P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $13
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Rainier Ridge 2009 Merlot (Washington).
Pretty blueberry fruit highlights this clean,
fresh, forward wine with genuine fruit character. Any
SYRAH
Cayuse 2008 Bionic Frog Syrah (Walla
Walla Valley). For full review see page 3.
Cayuse 2008 En Cerise Vineyard Syrah
(Walla Walla Valley). A subtle, complex, utterly distinctive mix of flavors, with opening streaks of
butter cookie, then mushroom broth, tightly wound
berry fruit, earthy coffee grounds and even darker
streaks of espresso and smoke and licorice. It is deeply
layered with flavors that just keep piling on. Amazing
wine. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $70
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Cayuse 2008 Armada Vineyard Syrah
(Walla Walla Valley). Right out of the chute,
the garrigue and wild herb flavors are amazing. This is
Northern Rhône in a glass, but with New World power
behind the fruit. Bright and pungent, a mix of herb and
tart berry and rock. Still youthful, and already packed
with nuance and flavor. There has never been a Cayuse vintage that needed to be cellared more than these
2008s; this is a 20-year wine. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $75
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Cayuse 2008 Cailloux Vineyard Syrah
(Walla Walla Valley). This is the only Cayuse
Syrah that is co-fermented (with 8% Viognier), which
adds nuances of white flower and floral, though the citrus rind scents override them. In the nose it’s hugely
expressive, though still quite tight and compact in the
mouth; it must be decanted. It’s a three ring circus of a
wine, with things moving and shaking in all directions.
Mineral, berry, mountain complexity, nuanced herb and
earth and citrus, all in proportion, and all flowing in the
mouth. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $70
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Cayuse 2008 En Chamberlin Vineyard
Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). A huge wine, fat
with the characteristic Cayuse funk, and accented with
plenty of meaty asphalt. Potent and powerful, bursting with berries and plums, scented with the aromas of
earth and sweet (not dried) herb, chicken stock and flavors that run through the same exotic range. Round and
full, forward and balanced, drinking well and maybe just
a bit rounder than its brethren. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $70
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Dusted Valley 2008 Tall Tales Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Tall Tales is a new designation for the winery’s reserve Syrah. It’s unfined, unfiltered and unabashed—a potent, powerful wine which
teeters on the edge of bitterness. But within its compact
and textural body are lively flavors of boysenberry and
coffee grounds, tobacco and vanilla, cola and rock. It
pushes deep into the palate and extends into a complex
and long-lasting finish. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $53
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Dusted Valley 2008 Stained Tooth Syrah
(Columbia Valley). The ever-popular Stained
Tooth Syrah hits a high water mark this year. It’s dark
and smoky, a complex smorgasbord with earthy, brambly fruit compote streaked with a rich vein of vanilla.
Dense and compelling, it layers in wild, peppery herbal
highlights through an extended finish. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $26
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L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Superbly executed, setting its ripe berry
fruit flavors in a tart, citrusy framework. Deep and persistent, it hints at a subtle subtext of composted earth,
but shows no trace of excess from its 15% alcohol. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 15%
Price: $25
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Novelty Hill 2008 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley). A standout
Syrah from the first whiff, which brings smoked meats
and umami-soaked mushrooms up from the glass.
There’s plenty of boysenberry fruit flavor also, and the
wine finds a perfect balance among the fruit, acid, earth
and tannins. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $28
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Robert Ramsay 2007 Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills). Citrus oil, cherries, clean earth and
sweet coffee notes configure this well-crafted Syrah
from McKinley Springs vineyard grapes. More flavors
emerge with time—black olive and pepper, dried herbs
and sandalwood. Bright and assertive, with precisely defined tannins. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $20
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Balboa 2009 Estate Syrah (Walla Walla
Valley). New, eco-friendly minimalist packaging and estate-grown fruit push this distinctive Walla Walla Valley Syrah to the front ranks. Juicy, sappy,
tart and tangy boysenberry fruit flavors run through
the bright midpalate. Tannins are soft and supple, with
plenty of lemony acidity backing them up. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $22
90
Januik 2008 Lewis Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley). The Lewis Vineyard is the
source of many of Washington’s best Syrahs. Januik’s
version shows both the tightly wound berry flavors and
the subtle earth, fungus, game and herb highlights that
define this vineyard’s fruit. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
Price: $30
abv: 14.4%
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Stottle 2008 Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills).
Pure fruit flavor, from Elerding Vineyard
grapes, is the driver in all of these Stottle wines, and
there is nothing to say but bravo. Taking the pure, varietal, berry-driven flavors of the grapes, Winemaker Josh
Stottlemyer balances his wines with just the right mix
of acid, earth and tannin, giving them depth and gravitas. But the fruit—sweet and pure—says drink me now.
—P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
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Bunchgrass 2008 Syrah (Columbia Valley). This is a pleasing, well-crafted Syrah,
100% varietal, and sourced from the excellent Lewis vineyard. The wine displays a nicely balanced mix
of earth, herb, citrus, spice and berry. It feels lighter
than its 14.6% alcohol, but the flavors persist, finishing
with fine-grained tannins and a streak of coffee/mocha.
—P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $28
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Trust 2008 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). In
this 2008 vintage Trust’s Walla Walla bottling is
100% Syrah. Soft and toasty, it weaves notes of sandalwood and honey muffin around tart berry fruit. Pretty
and ripe, with tannins that are buttery smooth. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
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deep color, fine-grained tannins, a sweetly herbal character, and great balance throughout. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $75
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Wilridge 2009 Tempranillo (Rattlesnake
Hills). The Sugarloaf vineyard, a new site in the
western Yakima Valley, is the grape source. This has a
substantial mouthfeel, a mix of toast and cracker, berry
and plum, with a kick of spice in the nose and the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $19
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Ott & Murphy 2008 Tempranillo (Columbia Valley). Light strawberry fruit is matched
to barrel notes of cola and caramel. There is more than
a trace of barnyard and earth, and the tannins have a
tea-like astringency. The fruit seems a bit over-matched.
—P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $16
Bunchgrass 2008 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The Morrison Lane Vineyard—the oldest
Syrah planting in Walla Walla—is the source of the fruit.
Crisply styled, with pretty raspberry fruit at its core, this
well-balanced effort blends in accent notes of spice and
barrel toast. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $32
OTHER REDS
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Stonecap 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley).
A smooth, berry-licious and most affordable
Washington Syrah. Along with bright berry and plum
fruit and accents of anise, cinnamon and clove. The flavors are pure and fresh, and round out into a smooth
finish. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $8
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Patterson Cellars 2007 Syrah (Columbia
Valley). Firm and chewy, this pure Syrah has
plenty of punch (at 14.6% alcohol) but not much detail. A clean, crisp core of tangy berry is framed in large,
dry, somewhat chalky tannins, and finishes with a hit of
chocolate. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $23
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Trust 2008 Syrah (Columbia Valley). A
cooler vintage in the Columbia Valley, which
perhaps contributes to a wine that seems rather hard
and thin. Though the alcohol is listed at 14.2%, the fruit
is tight and one dimensional, with dominant acidity. The
wine is sound and balanced, but not showing its best at
the moment. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
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Wilridge 2009 Estate Syrah-Mourvèdre
(Columbia Valley). More than three quarters Syrah, this is made from young vines planted in the
estate vineyard in the extreme western Yakima Valley.
With such new vines it is difficult to point to specific varietal character. It’s tart and lightly fruity, with a pleasant
spicy edge. —P.G.
Price: $29
abv: 13.4%
TEMPRANILLO
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Cayuse 2008 Impulsivo Tempranillo
(Walla Walla Valley). Saturated in every way,
this sappy, spicy, almost surreal Tempranillo piles on the
wild, gamy fruit, the mineral-infused base, the leaf and
forest flavors, all around tart berry flavors. Amazingly
Cayuse 2008 Flying Pig (Walla Walla Valley). A mass of flavors—mineral, umami, dry
tannins, spicy fruit—all sublimated to the earthy mineral base. A drier, mineral component is more in evidence
than the earthy, composty character of previous years.
Good acidity, not too much, and precise mountain berry
fruit. Fine-grained tannins carry the wine through the
finish. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $75
93
Den Hoed 2007 Marie’s View (Horse
Heaven Hills). It’s a difficult challenge to
blend six different grapes into a wine without sacrificing
focus, but winemaker Rob Newsom has done a splendid job with this new vintage of Marie’s View. Roughly
a third Cabernet and a third Syrah, which provide a potent core of deep red and black fruits, the wine is nuanced with layers of spice, leaf, toasted grain, loam and
coffee grounds. Fine acids promise a long life. Cellar
Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $80
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Cadaretta 2008 Windthrow (Columbia
Valley). Windthrow is a southern Rhône-style
blend of 36% Syrah, 29% Mourvèdre, 18% Counoise
and 17% Grenache. Ripe and nicely focused, it wraps
sleek raspberry fruit in delicate layers of oak, mineral
and acid. Tannins are smooth and subtle; the finish is
like a fine pastry lingering in the back of the mouth.
—P.G.
Price: $50
abv: NA
91
J. Bookwalter 2009 Antithesis (Columbia
Valley). A blend of 56% Cab Franc and 44%
Merlot, this silky-smooth, mouth-coating wine offers
lush fruit flavors of plum and strawberry, spicy and soft.
Tannins are beautifully ripened. This is drink-worthy
right now, but can be cellared for another half decade.
—P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $45
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Olsen Estates 2008 Red (Yakima Valley).
A red Rhône-style blend based on Syrah, but
WineMag.com | 73
with small portions of Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Grenache
and Counoise in the mix, and all estate-grown. This
wine has a lot going on—deep black fruits, thick streaks
of composty loam, veins of coffee and licorice, and penetrating, fully ripe tannins. The fruit is immaculate, and
there is plenty of natural acidity to buoy up the heavy
flavors. A gem. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $15
90
Vineyard Ribera Blend (Horse Heaven
Hills). Inspired by Spanish Tempranillo, this is tannic,
but with intriguing aromas and complexity. There is impressive varietal character—notes of lavender, brown
spices, dried leaf and tobacco, with finishing complexity. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $40
90
Isenhower 2008 El Conquistador (Horse
Heaven Hills). This Tempranillo-Mourvèdre-Syrah blend is smooth and captivating. The cherry-flavored fruit sports many herbal highlights, a vanilla streak, and tannins that bring an impression of soft
leather. The partial fermentation in French oak brings
interesting chocolatey molé flavors to the back of the
throat. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
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Januik 2008 Red (Columbia Valley). For
a wine that is Januik’s low cost red, this is exceptionally deep and detailed. Firm berry and plum
and black currant fruits are set into polished tannins.
There is a frame of dark chocolate and espresso around
them, sailing into a clean, medium length finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $18
90
Sparkman 2008 Wilderness Red (Columbia Valley). At the moment, this is Sparkman’s
most accessible and complete non-Syrah red from the
2008 vintage. Broad and open, it offers a palate-pleasing
mix of herb, pepper, cherry and graphite. Smooth tannins and no trace of alcoholic heat in the finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $28
89
Goose Ridge 2008 g3 (Columbia Valley).
This blend of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon has a spicy start, with dark, tannic, slightly earthy
raspberries and black cherries filling out the mouth.
Streaks of smoke, black olive and coffee come into play
as it winds into a moderately deep finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $18
it’s just a big old bowl of raspberry fruit. But the structure is excellent, and the proportion of acid and tannin
gives the wine substance and depth. It spent 20 months
in a mix of oak, but it seems more neutral than intrusive.
A fine bottle. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $24
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Waterbrook 2008 Rhône Red (Columbia
Valley). The aromas deliver a bit more complexity than the palate at the moment, perhaps just an
indication that the wine has entered a tight, rather hard
phase. Blackberry, black cherry, cherry pit and a bit of
peach in the fruit mix. This needs more time, but has
good density and dark, polished tannins. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $30
Woodinville Wine Cellars 2008 OMO Red
(Columbia Valley). The letters stand for Odd
Man Out, perhaps a reference to the unusual blend
(two thirds Petit Verdot, one third Malbec). The nose
promises and the mouth delivers a lot of leathery barnyard character; some tasters call it a feature, and some
call it a flaw. Black cherry fruit, thick and chewy tannins,
and alcohol near 15% mark this as a powerful wine.
Drink soon. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $36
Barrister 2009 Kiona Vineyard Sangiovese (Red Mountain). Tart and a little monolithic, but pretty enough, with light strawberry and
cherry fruit flavors. On the second day it broadens out
a bit, adding hints of tobacco. Slightly hot in the finish.
—P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $28
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Januik 2008 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Petit Verdot (Red Mountain). A rare, pure, varietal Petit Verdot, from a great Red Mountain vineyard. Earthy, thick tannins cover sleek red fruits, with
plenty of acidity under to buoy it up. It’s a big, blocky,
slightly hot wine, that may benefit from further bottle
age. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $35
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Ott & Murphy 2008 Compendium (Columbia Valley). A second Rhône-style blend
from Ott & Murphy, this one based upon Cinsault
(38%), Syrah (37%) and Mourvèdre (22%) with a splash
of Viognier. It is the most interesting of the winery’s
2008 reds, with spiced apples, plums, clove, cumin and
other exotic accents, a soft earthiness and medium complexity. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $26
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Novelty Hill 2008 Royal Slope Red (Columbia Valley). A difficult wine to analyze, as it
seems to have a compact, muscular power, but remains
tightly shut down even after some extended breathing
time. The blend brings the black fruits and tannins of
its dominant (59%) Merlot, with a streak of loamy Syrah
running through the middle. Small percentages of five
other grapes complete the blend. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $18
Stottle 2008 Sangiovese (Horse Heaven
Hills). Delicious, sweet scents of perfectly ripe
berries rise up from the glass, and it would be easy to say
grant highlights of sage, wild berry and wild grape. The
fruit flavors that follow are pure and ripe, and the balance is excellent, with just the right mix of acid and tannin. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $22
Robert Ramsay 2008 McKinley Springs
Mourvèdre (Horse Heaven Hills). At first
whiff a little high-toned and sharp, this pure, singlevineyard Mourvèdre smoothes out in the mouth. The
fruit has young, light flavors of strawberry and raspberry, with a slight suggestion of truffle. Bright acidity hides
the influence of the (40%) new oak aging. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $42
Stottle 2008 Blend (Columbia Valley). An
intriguing blend of 62% Sangiovese, 25% Nebbiolo and 13% Barbera, which opens with intensely fra-
Patterson Cellars 2009 Barbera (Columbia Valley). Barbera grapes from a Lake Chelan vineyard are blended with 25% Sangiovese from the
Yakima Valley. It’s an interesting wine, with pretty strawberry fruit, tart acidity and a wall of tannin that cuts it
short. The components are starkly apparent, but with
time may ultimately blend into a more seamless expression of what seems to be good fruit. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $23
Ott & Murphy 2008 Double Bluff (Columbia Valley). This is a Rhône-style blend
of mostly Grenache and Syrah, with smaller amounts
of Viognier and Cinsault. The wine opens with appealing spices, but turns tart and stemmy in the mouth. The
spiced plum fruit flavors compete somewhat unsuccessfully with bitter tannins. More bottle age should help.
—P.G.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $19
Wilridge 2009 Zweigelt (Columbia Valley). Quite possibly the first and only Washington Zweigelt, this has the sort of rough, rustic appeal
as did Lemberger in the early days of the state’s wine
industry. Bright cranberry fruit has a spicy edge, and a
sharp, high-toned finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $29
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Wilridge 2009 Estate Barbera (Columbia
Valley). Strawberries are the core of the fruit
here, with plenty of acidity behind. The wine thins out
quickly in the midpalate, and finishes high-toned and
lightly fruity. —P.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $19
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Rainier Ridge NV Red Wine (Washington). Some noticeable residual sugar, and a
grapey, unfermented grape juice flavor brands this as
an easy-drinking “wine with training wheels.” A clean,
lightly peppery finish. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
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Wilridge 2009 Estate Nebbiolo (Columbia Valley). A rare Washington Nebbiolo,
from a recently planted Yakima Valley vineyard, this has
young vine flavors of berry candy. It’s high-toned and
slightly volatile, with some heat in the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $29
WineMag.com | 75
SPIRITS
CHERRY- AND BERRY-FLAVORED VODKAS
C
herry and berry are among the most popular flavors offered by vodka makers, as
cocktailians tend to prefer sweet flavors.
You won’t find these flavored spirits in classic cocktail recipes, but they sell very well in bars. A quick
search yields hundreds of “berry martinis” and
“chocolate-covered cherry” drinks.
Most of these flavored vodkas aren’t
made for sipping straight, which makes them
exceedingly hard to evaluate. They’re destined
for vodka sodas and vodka tonics, the reigning
dieter’s drink of the last few years.
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Alchemia Wild Cherry Infused Vodka (Poland; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY); 40% abv, $29. An almost
cordial-like stunner, from the dense deep red color to
the brandied cherry flavor. Though it’s a trifle boozy,
like an eau-de-vie, the syrupy, velvety spirit is surprisingly luscious. A dark cherry flavor clings to the palate.
It wouldn’t be out of place as an after-dinner digestif,
swirled in a snifter with an ice cube or two. How many
vodkas can say that?
Denaka Raspberry Vodka (Canada; Sazerac Company, Chicago, IL); 35% abv,
$13. The best of the raspberry crop: a clear spirit with
a light, sugared scent and a fleeting juiciness that winds
into a nicely mouthwatering, fruity finish. Silky texture.
Good value, too
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Vincent Van Gogh Black Cherry (Holland; Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL);
35% abv, $27. A small-batch vodka from master distiller Tim Vos, this pretty pink spirit with a mild cherryalmond scent is surprisingly big and sweet on the palate, with a touch of bitterness. Ice transforms this spirit,
though, erasing the bitterness and coaxing out violet
notes. Shake it with ice, strain it into a coupe glass with
brandied cherries and call it a Vodka Aviation.
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Skyy Infusions All Natural Raspberry
(USA; Skyy Spirits, San Francisco, CA);
35% abv, $18. Warm, sweet, candy-like scent. On
the palate, this clear spirit shows a flare of alcohol up
front, fading into sweetness and a lingering, pleasant
raspberry finish. A good match for vodka tonics and
vodka sodas.
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Effen Black Cherry Vodka (Holland; Jim
Beam, Frankfort, KY); 37.5% abv, $30. A
vodka with finesse and elegance, from the light, sweet
cherry scent to the restrained cherry-vanilla flavor to
the smooth feel. Best with ice. Clean, striking bottle
design.
Bartenders look to flavored vodkas for
speed and convenience, when labor-intensive
fresh-fruit infusions simply aren’t practical, and
to compensate for out-of-season ingredients.
However, very few truly mimic the flavor of
the real thing.
But one of the ways flavored vodka might
actually outshine the real thing is in aromatics.
Although vodka is often touted as “colorless and
odorless,” the scent counts as much as the taste in
flavored vodkas. Sometimes, more.
—Kara Newman
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Voli Raspberry Cocoa Fusion (France;
Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY); 30% abv, $23. For full review see page 10.
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Chambord Flavored Vodka (France;
Brown-Forman Beverages, Louisville,
KY); 37.5% abv, $25. Since the round-ball bottle and
its candied-violet-scented, lavender-pink contents so
closely resemble perfume, presumably the ladies are
the target audience. On its own, this vodka, an offshoot
of Chambord liqueur, is viscous and tooth-achingly
sweet. But mixed and chilled, the ladies will love this
in martini’d and carbonated form.
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Pur Geist Sloe Berry Flavored Vodka
(Germany; Germany; Braverman LLC,
San Francisco, CA) 40% abv, $41. Intriguingly
complex, with earthy, cedar-like aromas and muted
herbal flavors of mint, eucalyptus and rosemary. Although the flavor doesn’t read as fruity, it’s very nice
nevertheless, with a soft, velvety texture. No additives
or flavoring agents.
89
Skyy Infusions All Natural Cherry (USA;
Skyy Spirits, San Francisco, CA); 35%
abv, $18. Craving cherry candy? Here it is, in liquid
form. The clear spirit has a perky, assertive Charms lollipop scent. Although it reads as ersatz and a touch bitter at first, the flavor rounds out on the finish to be lollipop bright.
88
Little Black Dress Vodka Blueberry
Pomegranate (USA; Brown-Forman
Beverages, Louisville, KY), 32.5% abv, $15. Look
for a juicy grape lollipop scent and flavor, with a gentle effervescent feel. This spirit would blend seamlessly
into a fruity martini-style drink.
88
Vincent Van Gogh Acai-Blueberry (Holland; Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL);
35% abv, $27. A very grapey vodka, with a grape
soda-like purple color and scent, and intensely juicy,
grape-berry flavor lifted by a lightly effervescent feel
on the tongue and a touch of violet on the finish.
88
Vincent Van Gogh Raspberry (Holland;
Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL); 35%
abv. $27. Made with raspberries from Germany, this
clear vodka has a bright berry lollipop scent and a
sweet flavor with an insistent pop of berry flavor up
front. Best with lots of ice, which smooths out the flavor
and coaxes a softer feel.
87
Eristoff Red Sloe Berry (France; Bacardi USA, Miami, FL); 20% abv, $17/1 L.
Dense cherry red color and juicy scent redolent with
dark raspberries or cherries. An enormous sweet-tart
cherry flavor washes over the tongue, then fades quickly. Consider using this spirit to add color and flavor to a
martini-style drink.
87
Stoli Strasberi (Latvia; William Grant &
Sons, Edison, NJ); 35% abv, $27//1 L.
This vodka is all about the aromatics—the bright, bold,
juicy strawberry fragrance practically bounces out of
the glass. The flavor washes out, except for the pleasant
burst of strawberry-vanilla on the finish. But this could
make for a lovely strawberry-scented spritzer when
there won’t be any real berries found at the greenmarket.
87
Zodiac Black Cherry Vodka (USA; Zodiac Spirits, Richardson, TX); 35% abv,
$28. A clear Idaho potato-vodka spirit, with lots of vanilla in the aroma and flavor, plus a touch of cherry candy on the finish.
86
Denaka Black Cherry Vodka (Canada;
Sazerac Company, Chicago, IL); 35%
abv, $13. The scent of this clear vodka is intensely sugary, to the point where it might be mistaken for rum.
The flavor is sweet as well with an intensely almond
cherry-pit finish. Best served very, very cold.
86
Stoli Razberi (Latvia; William Grant &
Sons, Edison, NJ) 37.5% abv, $27/1 L.
Clear, with a mild raspberry scent. At first it has a great
true-berry taste, but unfortunately it gets crowded out
by a lingering bitterness. Best served tall, with lots of
ice and a splash of juice.
86
Little Black Dress Vodka Black Cherry Vanilla (USA; Brown Forman Beverages, Louisville, KY); 32.5% abv, $15. This clear
spirit has a lovely, delicate cherry blossom scent with a
hint of vanilla. But there’s none of the delicacy on the
tongue—it’s a wallop of sweetness. Diluted with grapefruit juice or a bitter liqueur to temper the sweetness, it
might regain its equilibrium.
85
Stoli Blueberi (Latvia; William Grant &
Sons, Edison, NJ); 37.5% abv, $27/1 L.
Warm, intense aroma, somewhere between ripe plums
and candy. When sipped straight, this vodka has an
overwhelming, medicinal bitterness. Yet with lots of
lime and sugar, such as in a blueberry-flavored caipiroska, that fades away completely and the aromatics
take center stage.
84
Eristoff Black Wild Berry (France; Bacardi USA, Miami, FL); 20% abv, $17/
1 L. Sinister inky black, this spirit’s claim to fame is
that it stains your tongue black. It has a sweet but ersatz
blackberry-blueberry aroma and flavor, like an energy
drink. At 40 proof, it’s not overly alcoholic, but even diluted it’s still a scary, murky black—which might be an
asset for Halloween party punches.
84
Rokk Raspberry (Sweden; Diageo, Norwalk, CT); 35% abv, $13. Fruity, jammy
scent. If only the taste mirrored the luscious aroma. Instead it’s sweet, then a wash of bitterness, which comes
through even with significant dilution.
WineMag.com | 77
BEER
IMPERIAL IPAS: CHILLY WEATHER’S BEST FRIEND
W
ith fall in full swing, drinking
preferences often trend towards more
robust and full-flavored selections
than those we typically enjoy during the
summer. The holidays are around the corner,
family and friends will be gathering, so it’s best
to be prepared with a fridge stocked full of
chilly weather’s best friend: Imperial IPAs.
Imperial IPAs are perfect for the season.
They lend themselves wonderfully to
Thanksgiving fare, especially turkey; they
offer assertive earthy flavors of rich hops and
resiny or piney spice, all of which boost the
DOUBLE/IMPERIAL IPA
94
Avery Dictator Series The Maharaja Imperial India Pale Ale Batch No. 13 (American Double/Imperial IPA; Avery Brewing Co.,
CO); 10.54% abv; $9/22 oz. The Maharaja Batch
No. 13 is one serious beer with an intense nose of thick
citrus oil, mango and peach accented by hints of nectarine pit and sweet resiny pine. It’s a constant back and
forth between the rich caramel malt and toffee-like flavors and the strongly astringent hop core, but it all balances out into one complex beer. Lush and creamy in
the mouth, the high alcohol is in balance and the finish
is long and lingering. Overall, this is an intense, robust
and masterfully crafted full-flavored beer that doesn’t
go too far over the top.
93
Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA (American
Double/Imperial IPA; Dogfish Head Craft
Brewery, DE); 9.0% abv; $12/12 oz 4 pack. Perhaps one of the best-known American DIPAs today,
Dogfish knows how to do it right for serious hopheads
looking for a strong, astringent kick. Dark stone fruit
and fig add depth to the otherwise hop-dominated
nose, while resin and pine flood the full-bodied and
round mouth. It’s balanced for what it is, though there
is an impression of aged Sherry on the finish with a
touch of rancio and toasted walnut-infused warmth.
93
Victory Yakima Glory Ale (Imperial Dark
IPA; Victory Brewing, PA); 8.7% abv,
$10/12 oz 6 pack. This self-described “Dark IPA” is
an interesting but quite delicious beer from Pennsylvania’s Victory Brewing. It pours a light mahogany color
with a nice tan head, and immediate scents of roasted
malt, walnut, dried date and a touch of caramel along
with woody spice hit you on the nose. The mouth takes
on more of the same rich, roasty characters, with a
touch of cocoa powder and hop pollen unfolding on the
finish. Balanced and clean, this different brew is definitely worth a try.
92
Flying Dog Imperial IPA Simcoe Single
Hop (American Double/Imperial IPA;
Flying Dog Brewery, MD); 10% abv, $23/12 bottle variety pack. This brew can be found as part of
often one-dimensional or bland flavors of the
bird. Compared to regular IPAs, the higher
alcohol content, richer mouthfeel and ampedup flavor profiles found in Imperial or Double
IPAs all complement the traditional American
fare, as well as promising a lively dinner table
conversation.
For those who might not be pronounced
hopheads, non-Imperial IPAs offer the same,
albeit dialed-down, earthy spice and moderate
astringency, so be sure to have both on hand
to satisfy all of your guest’s lupulin preferences.
Prost!
—Lauren Buzzeo
“The Alpha Collection,” a 12-bottle variety pack of
hoppy beers from Flying Dog that also includes the
Doggie Style Classic Pale Ale, Snake Dog IPA and
Raging Bitch Belgian-Style IPA. The hoppiest out of
the bunch, this single-hop stunner showcases notes of
pine, grapefruit and orange peel that integrate masterfully with sweeter accents of honey, caramel malt and
toasted grain. The finish is definitely bitter, but appropriately so, with a touch of lingering warmth.
92
Founders Double Trouble Imperial IPA
(American Double/Imperial IPA; Founders Brewing Co., MI); 9.4% abv, $11/12 oz 4
pack. Another beauty from Founders, Double Trouble
pours a golden orange color with glimmers of radiance
in the light. This big beer is loaded with fresh stone
fruit scents of peach and apricot alongside the strong
citrus hop notes. Fresh bread dough and malt provide a
solid core to the mouth, balancing out the bitter orange
pith and piney hop characteristics on the palate. Balanced and remarkably drinkable for the high alcohol.
92
Ninkasi Tricerahops Double IPA (American Double/Imperial IPA; Ninkasi Brewing, OR); 8.8% abv, $6/22 oz. An intense and wellbalanced brew with strong hop-driven notes of grapefruit rind and pressed pine needles against a backdrop
of caramel malt and fresh-baked bread. The full-bodied and round mouth is quite bitter and astringent,
with powerful resiny hop flavors along with a touch
of woody spice and more citrus pithiness. Definitely a
good choice for those who like a strong hop kick.
92
Uinta Crooked Line Detour Double India
Pale Ale (American Double/Imperial IPA;
Uinta Brewing, UT); 9.5% abv, $9/750 ml. Pine
resin and grapefruit pith dominate the bouquet for
sure, but a second deep nosing can uncover soft notes
of dried apricot and fresh caramel squares in the background. Clean and balanced in the mouth, it’s full-bodied and assertive but balanced between the hop and
malt characters. A touch of green peppercorn jazzes up
the finish, showing great evolution from toasty grain to
spice and finally to piney hop bitterness.
91
Full Sail Elevation Imperial IPA Brewmaster Reserve 2011 (American Double/
Imperial IPA; Full Sail Brewing, OR); 7.5% abv,
$5/22 oz. Despite the fact that this is a DIPA, it could
certainly help convert non-hop believers with its fresh
hop character and juicy tones of peach, apricot and
orange supremes. Assertive carbonation keeps things
bright in the mouth alongside a burst of citrus juiciness,
but the flavors are full and satisfying with a remarkably
balanced finish of fresh hops and soft bitterness.
90
Smuttynose Big A IPA (American Double/Imperial IPA; Smuttynose Brewing
Co., NH); 9.74% abv, $11/12 oz 4 pack. At almost
10% abv, this is a seriously strong beer that shows its
strength on the close with a slightly boozy finish. The
nose and mouth, however, are to die for if you’re a fan
of hops, as there are ridiculously strong notes of pine
resin, grapefruit pith and pressed-petal florals throughout. Toasted grain and a touch of caramel malt sweetness provide the backbone to the full mouth, but the
bitterness eventually prevails and continues to reign
after swallow.
INDIA PALE ALE
92
Karl Strauss Blackball Belgian-Style IPA
(Belgian IPA; Karl Strauss Brewing Company, CA); 8.5% abv; $NA/22 oz. This IPA pours a
bright orange-gold color with a significant frothy white
head that lingers. Fresh stone fruit and floral hops immediately waft out of the glass, while secondary notes
of whole green peppercorns and faint sweet spice are
discovered upon deeper nosing. The mouth is big and
full but with all elements in check as the juicy fruit
character mingles seamlessly with the fresh hop flavor
and yeasty spice. Delicious and very drinkable.
91
BrewDog Punk IPA (American-style IPA;
BrewDog, UK); 6.0% abv, $NA/12 oz 6
pack. This IPA is remarkably smooth and balanced,
with attractive aromas of fresh hop, orange rind and
pretzel-like malt. Pine-driven spice and grapefruit
citrus lead the medium-weight mouth, with a good
amount of drying astringency lingering on the close
alongside flavors of toasted biscuit and peach pit.
90
Ninkasi Total Domination IPA (American
IPA; Ninkasi Brewing, OR); 6.7% abv,
$4/22 oz. Pours a golden orange color with a serious head that lingers. The nose isn’t as assertive as one
might expect from the name, but scents of grapefruit,
husky grain, walnut skin and a touch of graham cracker
can all be found in the bouquet. The mouth, however,
provides a rich experience with a full body and intense
flavors of toffee, bread dough and resiny spice that persists long after swallow.
86
Four in Hand IPA (American IPA; World
Brews, NY); 6.3% abv, $7/12 oz 6 pack.
Mild but approachable, this is a nicely balanced IPA
for those looking for a good entry point to the category. Citrus and soft spice abound on the nose, while the
mouth shows more toasted malt sweetness and pinedriven hop flavor on the close.

buying guide - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Transcription

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