Darth Vader ESB to Anakin AOTC conversion

Transcription

Ultra Sabers LLC
Darth Vader ESB Conversion Document
Darth Vader ESB to Anakin AOTC conversion
!!! BEFORE YOU BEGIN !!!
Please follow these instructions by the number. If you do not pay close attention to what you are doing, you WILL
destroy any number of electrical components as well as physically damage the lightsaber’s structure.
**Ultra Sabers would like to remind you that by performing this modification to your lightsaber, you will instantly void
any remaining warranty from Master Replicas.
What’s included with your base kit:
Luxeon III LED
Machined optic module
Heat shrink
Allen blade screw
Allen wrench
Aluminum binding post
Neoprene-backed washer
Force crystal
Polished aluminum emitter shroud
Ideal tools you will need to complete your conversion:
Container for small parts
Hammer & Punch
Needle nose pliers
Flathead & Philips screwdriver
Soldering Iron* (Required)
Tape (Scotch preferably)
Hot glue
Wire stripper/cutter
Steel Pick/Probe (Ideally)
8/32” Tap (For threading blade set screw hole)
Thoroughly read these instructions and understand exactly what you are doing BEFORE you start the
conversion process. Check our FAQ or email us for any questions you may need clarification on BEFORE
your saber is on fire or melted to the work bench…
Ultra Sabers LLC (www.ultrasabers.com)
1440 West Houston Avenue Suite 8
Gilbert, AZ 85233
Office: 480.507.1884
Sales/Customer Service: [email protected]
Technical/Troubleshooting: [email protected]
We are not liable for any catastrophes that you, the customer, create due to your own negligence or
lack of proper skills when attempting this conversion of your personal lightsaber.
We have given you the parts, the warnings and the outlets to ask questions about anything you’re
concerned with BEFORE you start…
One last time – DO NOT attempt this conversion unless you know what you are doing!
Do not remove the Luxeon III LED from its container.
It is ESD sensitive & you could destroy it without even knowing that you have.
Remember – No warranty is provided for your saber for the DIY kits. We cannot be held liable for any
issues created due to your own negligence!
The Darth Vader ESB conversion is more complex than most of the other conversions. You WILL be required to utilize a
soldering iron in order to complete this conversion! Expect to take at least 2-2.5 hours to complete this conversion.
Please do not redistribute without express written consent from Ultra Sabers!
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Ultra Sabers LLC
Do not rush yourself!
It would be sad to think you invested well over $100 in a saber and conversion kit for it to wind up as a paperweight!
Now on to the conversion!
You will need a sturdy, hard, flat surface in order to perform this conversion properly.
1. Place the saber face up and to the right on the table – as this picture indicates:
2. Remove the battery cap and battery pack.
3. Use pliers or a similar tool to remove the pin from the mounting post. Do not worry about damaging this pin or the
post itself as it will be replaced with the one we include in the kit.
The pin can sometimes be a
real pain to remove so you
may need to really work it hard
in order to get it out. If you’re
handy with a rotary tool you
can cut the edges off the pin
instead of trying to slide it out.
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4. Once the pin has been taken care of, you can slide the post out and unassembled the rest of the activation box.
You will not need the pin, post
or washer that came from the
original assembly. They will be
replaced.
5. Now remove the two screws that hold the physical switch in place.
6. After the screws are removed, you can remove the switch cover/mount. You do not need to remove the
remaining screw you see beneath this assembly. It holds the cosmetic belt in place.
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7. Carefully remove the switch unit from inside the plastic housing.
8. You now need to de-solder the wires (A) from the switch.
**Be careful not to lose the small plastic cover (B) that shields the wire connections to the switch.**
A
B
9. You will need to push the wires completely into the hilt before you slide the internal assembly from the hilt. If you do
not get the wires all the way in, they will either strip or be cut in half when you force the internal assembly out of the
saber hilt.
10. Remove the small silver screws found just below the black emitter shroud on each side of the saber.
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11. Remove the 4 screws pictured below in order to remove the cosmetic activation button and to prepare the
emitter shroud for removal.
The two larger thumbscrews may
prove difficult to unscrew. If you
cannot break them loose by hand,
tape up a pair of pliers and use
them to break the screws free.
12. Remove the remaining brass colored screw and slide the emitter shroud from the saber hilt (body)
13. Now it’s time for the RISKY part of this break down. Use a VERY WIDE tool (like a flat head screwdriver) to GENTLY
pry the 3 separate cosmetic wiring pieces from the hilt body. Do not force them! Just take your time and work them
out gradually. It may be a good idea to use your finger and apply a little reverse pressure as your attempting this.
If you do not plan on converting
this saber back to the Vader ESB,
then you don’t have to worry so
much about destroying these wires.
14. Once the wires have been removed, you can now slide the entire blade assembly out of the saber through the
emitter opening. You can set the steel hilt aside. You’re done with it until you start the re-assembly process.
You can remove this sticker and discard it if unless
you wish to convert this saber back to a Darth
Vader ESB in the future.
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15. Next, you will need to drive out the two knurled pins that hold the blade into place. You will need to remove the
sticker to keep from destroying it when you drive out the lower blade pin.
Pin
Pin
Try to drive the knurled end of the pin
out first. It will be easier to remove
from the hole if you do.
Sticker
16. Find the seam in the long black blade holder/sound module. It’s usually covered with clear tape. Remove the
tape along with the 2 small steel “hat” pins and split the two components from each other.
This is where the module will
separate once the all of the
tape has been removed.
There are two metal hat pins
that need to be removed.
16. Once the two blade pins and two hat pins are out, disconnect the wiring harness from the soundboard and slide
the blade out of the plastic holder.
17. Remove the white plastic sleeve found inside the upper half of the plastic blade holder. It will not be used for the
conversion.
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18. Find the small pin at the bottom of the blade and use a punch or similar tool to drive the pin further into the
blade. You don’t need to drive it very far in order to clear the blade ID (Inside Diameter).
Pin
19. Once you get the pin pushed in, you can slide the entire LED string from the blade. You also need to crack open
the plastic casing in order to expose the wires you will need to cut during the next step. A few light taps with a
hammer usually works well enough to manually pry it open.
Sensor
Don’t worry about damaging the white plastic case; you will not use it
again. Just be sure not to damage the impact sensor inside the case!
20. Cut the wires from the LED string as close to their board connection as possible.
21. Separate the wires and trim them down to about 2” from the wiring harness. You can leave more if you desire,
but remember that’s more you’ll have to find a place for when you’re trying to re-assemble everything. The wire
coming from the impact sensor (blue) and the purple wire from the harness are both spliced into the POSITIVE lead
from the LED module. All other wires from the harness are spliced into the NEGATIVE LED wire.
The negative lead will have a white stripe on it.
-
+
Side note – Make sure to notice the holes drilled into the LED assembly – They will be vital to identify in step 23.
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22. The LED module is actually keyed to match the upper half of the blade holder. Make sure to line the pieces up
before attempting to slide the module into the blade holder.
23. Once lined up correctly, slide LED module into the holder all the way to the end (hard stop). If you have it in far
enough, you will notice the holes in the plastic blade holder line up with the holes in the LED module. Re-insert the
metal hat pins you previously removed so that they now secure the LED module into place. If you want extra piece
of mind - Once they are flush with the plastic blade holder, you can use a small piece of Scotch or packing tape to
hold them into place.
You may need to use a hammer and the flat end of a punch tool to
secure the pins into place. DO NOT KILL IT! Light taps will do until you see
the pins flush mount with the holder.
If you do not utilize these two hat pins, the LED module will NOT be secure in the
blade holder. Replacing the pins is NOT an option – it has to be done!
25. Once the pins are in secured in the blade holder, you can reconnect the wiring harness to the sound board
located in the lower half of the plastic assembly you split earlier.
You will find space inside the plastic tube for any
extra wires you may need to tuck away. You can
secure the impact sensor anywhere you like. Just
make sure it will not be in the way when you reassemble these two pieces.
26. Once the two pieces are mated together, you can once again use the scotch/packing tape to lightly secure the
two pieces together for insertion into the hilt. Usually tape is not required. The two pieces are keyed so they will only
fit together one certain way. Once inside the hilt, they will be secured with the external screws.
It’s a very good idea to clean the blade holder
at this time. Use “Goo-Gone” or equivalent to
remove all the glue and various other pieces of
tape. Since the cosmetic wires are not being reinstalled, the glue will show through the holes in
the hilt if you do not clean the blade holder.
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!!SYSTEMS CHECK!!
Now that you have the main internal assembly put back together, you will need to check your work to ensure you
have wired everything correctly. Grab the FX battery pack (with batteries of course) and connect it to the bottom of
the assembly. It’s keyed so it will only fit one way. Once you think you have them held together tightly, touch the two
switch wires together. If you hear the ignition sound and your LED lights up, you’ve done it! ☺ If you get sound but no
light, you wired the LED up backwards.
27. Make sure to tuck the wires back into the hilt before inserting the internal assembly back into the hilt as well as
replacing the sticker you removed earlier. Once you have the assembly back inside the hilt, you can use a pair of
needle nose pliers or similar to remove the switch wire leads from inside the hilt.
Wires tucked in
Do not replace the sticker that you originally
removed from the blade holder. It would only be
re-installed if you were leaving this saber as a
Vader and not the Anakin AOTC.
28. Slide the new polished emitter shroud down onto the top of the hilt, place neoprene washer on the thumbscrew
and install it as well as the brass colored screw.
29. Replace the black cosmetic cover but do NOT replace the top screw. This will be reserved for the blade set
screw you will need to drill & tap.
30. Make sure to slide the black plastic cover (A) back over the wires before soldering the leads back to the switch. It
will not matter which wire attached to which lead as you will be able to rotate the switch if you have them
backwards. Just make sure one of the wires is soldered to one of the two original switch leads.
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** NOTE **
Once you have the leads soldered back onto the switch, perform a systems check again to make sure your
connections are good. You will also need to know which direction is “on” so you will know which direction the switch
needs to face when installing it back into its housing.
31. Insert the switch back into its housing and place back onto the saber hilt. You will see that the “T” shape end of
the switch housing faces the emitter.
OFF
ON
With the batteries in place and the switch in the position as
shown here, your saber should be OFF. If it is ON in this
position, you need to reposition the switch. Just slide it out of
the housing, spin it around and re-install it. If you do not, your
saber will turn off and on exactly OPPOSITE of how it did
before your conversion.
32. Replace the top plastic piece along with the two metal activation box covers. You may need to hold the three
pieces into place while performing the next step.
33. Use the post provided in the kit to slide through the opening in the activation box. You will need to use a very
wide flat head screw driver to tighten this post into place. The post is a soft metal and can scratch or disfigure quite
easily if the tool you use to tighten it is not the correct size.
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34. If you want to maintain the look and feel of the Anakin AOTC saber, you will not replace the cosmetic wires that
originally came on the Vader ESB saber.
!!! DO NOT SKIP THE FOLLOWING STEP !!!
Contrary to an eBay merchant, tape will NOT hold blade into place if you plan on dueling!
If you do not tap the hilt, there will be nothing to hold the blade into the hilt and you in all your
wisdom will wind up breaking something or someone when the blade flies out during one of
your crazy Jedi re-enactments…
35. You will need to drill and tap the hole shown here in order to install the blade set screw. Use a 1/8” drill bit and
8/32” thread tap. (See back page for picture of tap)
36. Install your blade back into your saber, tighten down the blade set screw and perform one last systems check.
**NOTE**
The blade set screw does not require a hole in the blade in order to stay in place. The screw itself does
not require tightening all the way down. You just have to tighten the screw down so it’s “snug” against
the blade. We suggest getting the feel for how much torque it takes before you engage in any type of
dueling or spinning exhibition.
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!!CONGRATULATIONS!!
You’ve just converted your Darth Vader ESB to an Anakin AOTC Luxeon system!
FAQ/Troubleshooting:
Q: Do I really need to remove all those cosmetic pieces in order to do the conversion?
A: No, you can destroy them when you rip the internal assembly out of the hilt.
Q: Why can’t I reuse the pin that comes from the stock saber’s activation box?
A: 99% of the time, you have to destroy the pin that comes out of the post. If you can reuse the pin, go
for it, but we provide the replacement just in case you fall into that 99% category. ☺
Q: My saber turns off and on backwards!
A: Return to step 31, smack yourself for not following our directions and then fix your problem.
Q: When I test my saber for the first time, I get the power up sound, but I do not see any light!
A: You’ve wired the LED module incorrectly. Switch the leads and try again.
Q: The Allen screw won’t screw into the hilt!
A: Did you use a tap to thread completely through the hilt body? Double check to make sure the tap
went completely through the body and into the blade chamber.
Q: I wrecked one of the cosmetic pieces on my Vader, what can I do?
A: Sorry, there’s nothing we can do. Neither we nor Master Replicas have spare parts we can let go of.
You can try to super glue them or something along those lines, but it will not likely give you the results you
want.
= Uncommon but helpful tools =
8/32” Tap
Steel Probe
Extras:
If you have the tools and the capabilities, you can drill holes in the plastic blade holder where the
cosmetic wires used to be. This will allow the light from the LED to pass through the hilt and provides a
stunning visual effect once lit.
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Darth Vader ESB to Anakin AOTC conversion

Transcription

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