Dartmoor - The Climbers` Club

New Routes Dartmoor
Irish Man’s Wall
Grid Ref SX 613 919
1. The Sammath Naur. HS 4b 20’
To the right of Surform Buttress is a bulbous arête with a deep, off-width crack.
Struggle bloodily up this crack, utilising all manner of unusual and awkward jams to
clear the slight initial overhang and reach good gear above.
Jake Parrish 24/Sep/2011 (lead)
Higher Tor
Grid Ref SX 612 916
Approximately 200 metres South of the main Irish Man's Wall crag is what, on first
glance, appears to be a promising rocky outcrop marked as 'Higher Tor' on OS map
28. Disappointingly up close everything's all a little bitty. The climbs listed here can
all be found in the obvious East-facing central bay.
1. Bumblepuppy S 4a 20’
Layback on good holds above the small undercut to reach easier ground above. More
of an extended boulder problem.
Jake Parrish 10/Sep/11 (lead)
2. The Evil Cheese Conspiracy Theory D 15’
Start at the far left of the flat wall. Negotiate a tricky first move, then pull up and
move left, rounding the arête to gain easier ground to the top
Jake Parrish 12/Aug/11 (lead)
3. Bird Went Bang S 4a 15’
Start as for TECCT, follow the inside edge of the arête resisting the temptation to
escape out left. Thin moves to the top.
North Devon Climbing Club 31/Mar/08
4. Fab's Crack S 4a 15’
Climb the centre of the main wall direct. A series of delicate moves leads to a nice
finish.
North Devon Climbing Club 31/Mar/08
5. Bridge Over Fab’s Crack D 15’
Bridge up using both walls.
North Devon Climbing Club 31/Mar/08
6. Llama Farmer D 15’
An eliminate line following the right trending ridge to the right of Fab's Crack.
Deceptively juggy handholds throughout.
Jake Parrish 12/Aug/11 (lead)
7. Slug Hump D 15’
Start right of Llama Farmer. Climb the bulbous right-hand tower direct
Rhi Gray 12/Aug/11 (lead)
Great Staple Tor
Grid Ref SX 544 760
There are a number of low grade climbs both in an obvious bay on the South side of
the Tor and on a short wall on the East side. A bit of a walk in, a stomping 30mins up
hill. About 25-30' high, sparse gear, and the rock will stay wet after rain for quite
some time.
South Bay
1. E = MC Hammered Direct VS 5a 30’.
Just right of the small cave, take the direct wall start to the chimney crack and finish
easily up E = MC Hammered.
Jake Parrish 27/Nov/2011 (Solo)
2. E = MC Hammered HVD 30’
Start beneath the obvious overhang. Pull up and move left to climb the left-hand crack
to the top. Not much gear.
Jake Parrish 27/Nov/2011 (lead)
3. Math-Matical! VD 30’
Start at the corner right of the overhang. Pull up and left, finishing above the crack
Jake Parrish 6/Apr/2012 (lead – no 2nd)
4. π and Mashed D 30’
The jug infested left-hand wall of the main recess. Start left, move right to the top.
Jake Parrish 27/Nov/2011 (solo)
5. Late Night λ Kebab D 30’
Start on a boulder, pull up and head left to a huge jug. Pass this and head out the left
hand side.
Jake Parrish 6/Apr/2012 (lead – no 2nd)
6. Fermat's Last Pint HVD 30’
The steppy right-hand edge of the bay. Easy climbing but very little gear.
Jake Parrish 27/Nov/2011 (solo)
East Wall
Just round East from the South Bay is a short wall containing the following routes
7. Counterfeit Crack HVD 20’
The far-left crack. Start on the grassy left hand block, pull up and out left. Follow the
crack on delicate moves to the top.
Jake Parrish 6/Apr/2012 (lead – no 2nd)
8. Occam’s Razor VD 30’
A jaunt up the face of the left hand wall. Start on the grassy block. Move up the face,
trending right. Finish up the right hand of the top block.
Jake Parrish 6/Apr/2012 (lead – no 2nd)
9. Food Processors Are Great! HS 4b 30’
The first of the obvious cracks on the right-hand side. An awkward move halfway up
leads to a well protected rock-over to top out next to the jammed rock.
Jake Parrish 6/Apr/2012 (lead – no 2nd)
10. Trench Foot in the Year of the Centipede VD 30’
The second of the obvious cracks on the right-hand side. Fingery jams and sloping
quartz infested holds throughout.
Jake Parrish 6/Apr/2012 (lead – no 2nd)
Roos Tor
Grid Ref SX 544 765
A prominent Army Flag pole marks the top-out area for all these climbs. A short-wall
bay is found on the South side and a longer wall, approximately 30-35', is to be found
on the North. Approach is a long uphill walk-in, past Great Staple Tor. Approximately
30mins.
1. Laidback Jack HVS 5b 15’
The obvious right-left trending layback crack on the short, South-facing wall just
below the flagpole. Finish left of the overhanging rock.
Jake Parrish 27/Nov/2011 (lead)
2. Outright Denial S 4a 15’
As for Laidback Jack except once at the overhanging boulder, escape out right.
Jake Parrish 27/Nov/2011 (solo)
3. Kanga D 35’
Climb the obvious central line in the centre of the North facing wall, finishing direct.
Jake Parrish 27/Nov/2011 (lead)