Cathar Country

Comments

Transcription

Cathar Country
AUDE
Cathar Country
MAGAZI NE 201 5
HERITAGE IN A FESTIVE MOOD
Lively sites
A WAY OF LIFE
Vineyards and terroirs to be savoured
LAND OF ART AND MEMORIES
Popular know-how and traditions
AN EXCEPTIONAL COASTLINE
Astonishing Mediterranean
Cahier du patrimoine / AUDE CATHAR COUNTRY 2015
DESTINATION NATURE
100 % Activities
www.olean-creation.com - Crédit photos Paul PALAU
•
•
•
•
•
•
w ww .audetour i sme.com
LE
LE
LE
LE
LE
LE
GR ® 36
SENTIER CATHARE
GR ® 77
GR ® 7 ET GR ® 78 CHEMIN DE ST JACQUES
CANAL DU MIDI ET DE LA ROBINE
TOUR DU GOLFE ANTIQUE (GR ® DE PAYS)
À RETROUVER DANS LES TOPOGUIDES ® :
LE PAYS CORBIÈRES MINERVOIS,
LE PAYS CARCASSONNAIS,
LE PAYS DE LA NARBONNAISE,
LE PAYS DE LA HAUTE VALLÉE,
LE PAYS LAURAGAIS,
... À PIED.
C60Y100
SERVICE ABONNÉS ET LECTEURS :
Pour tout renseignement : 0 825 80 50 50 (0,15 € la minute).
Pour s’abonner par Internet : www.pyreneesmagazine.com
Pour s’abonner par fax : 05 61 76 65 67.
SUPPLÉMENT DIFFUSÉ SUR UNE PARTIE DU HORS-SÉRIE
“CATHARES” DE PYRÉNÉES MAGAZINE, 2015
PYRÉNÉES MAGAZINE ET CAHIERS DU PATRIMOINE
sont édités par MILAN PRESSE SAS, société par actions
simplifiées, 300, rue Léon-Joulin, 31100 Toulouse.
Président et directeur de la publication : BAYARD PRESSE,
représenté par Georges SANEROT.
RÉDACTION
Site Internet : www.pyreneesmagazine.com.
E-mail : [email protected]
Tél. : 05 61 76 64 64.
Fax : 05 61 76 63 04.
Directeur délégué : Éric de KERMEL.
Comité éditorial : Louis AUDOUBERT, Francis DURANTHON,
Vincent FONTVIEILLE, Isaure GRATACOS, Jean-François SOULET,
Gérard LARGIER.
Rédactrice en chef de Pyrénées magazine : Florence GARÈS,
[email protected]
Rédactrice en chef de ce supplément, premier secrétaire
de rédaction : Natacha SCHEIDHAUER
Maquette : Christine NEBLE, Corinne DENIEL (versions étrangères)
Ont participé à ce numéro : Pascal ALQUIER, Pascal NGUYÊN,
Nathalie PÉDESTARRES, Vincent POUSSON, Axel PUIG.
Pour la Belgique, éditeur responsable : Laurence FESTRAETS,
Bayard Presse Bénélux, rue de la Fusée, 50 Bte 10,
1130 Bruxelles, Belgique.
Tél. : 02/702 45 37. Fax : 02/702 45 35.
Service abonnements, tél. : 087 30 87 87, fax : 087 30 87 88,
e-mail : [email protected]
Pour la Suisse, éditeur responsable : Dynapresse Marketing SA,
38, avenue Vibert, CH-1227 Carouge.
Tél. : 022 308 08 08. Fax : 022 308 08 59.
E-mail : [email protected]
Service des ventes au numéro et réassorts pour diffuseurs de presse :
0 800 22 86 22 (n° vert).
SERVICES ADMINISTRATIFS ET COMMERCIAUX
Ventes au numéro : Philippe ORILLAC, Marion GÉLIS.
PUBLICITÉ
Publicité nationale :
Bayard Publicité : 18, rue Barbès, 92 128 Montrouge Cedex.
Tél. : 01 74 31 48 05.
Directrice de publicité : Valérie GOURHANT.
Tél. : 01 74 31 62 84. valé[email protected]
Publicité locale et régionale :
Tél. : 05 61 76 64 64. Fax : 05 61 76 63 90.
Directrice de clientèle : Martine COUTURE.
Tél. : 05 58 98 00 96. [email protected]
Directeur de publicité : Thierry MERCIER.
Tél. : 05 61 76 65 84. [email protected]
Suivi technique et remise des éléments :
Ghislaine DAMARDJI. Tél. : 05 61 76 63 93.
FABRICATION
Vincent TIXIER, Marine ANQUETIN.
Photogravure : Quat’Coul, Toulouse.
Impression : Imprimerie Vincent, 37010 TOURS CEDEX, France.
© 2015 Éditions Milan et les auteurs. Dépôt légal à parution.
Numéro de commission paritaire : 1113 K 83852. Les manuscrits
non sollicités par la rédaction et non insérés ne sont pas rendus
et ne peuvent être considérés comme acceptés par la rédaction.
ISSN 1252-2783.
editorial
AUDE
THE CATHAR COUNTRY
EVERYTHING IS THERE, NATURALLY THERE
With your senses sharpened, roused, enter
in to discover ... Aude, the Cathar Country
where the diversity of its lands welcomes
you with open arms. Under the sun, precisely. ln the heart of the South of France.
From the Mediterranean to the Lauragais
Country, from the Cévennes to the Pyrenees, this is the land of contrasts, a veritable mosaic of terroirs, in the middle of
which beats its crenellated heart: Carcassonne. Here, the inexpressible becomes
scent, light, splashes of colour radiating
out of the Cathedral’s rose windows, red
soil, whipping sand, the Autan wind,
the rocky accent resonating round the
markets, the tang of the bread and salt. ln this South of France - both Occitan and
Cathar - the sensations ring out and transmit their beneficial waves. ln Castelnaudary,
Lézignan, Narbonne, Gruissan, Lagrasse, Limoux…, everywhere the same serenity
imposes its force. Everywhere the same sumptuousness of the historical and natural
sites. Everywhere the same awareness of belonging to a land of heritage. That which
saw the Middle Ages come to life with one thousand passions, as one thousand buildings sprang up. That which managed to perpetuate its traditions, its know-how and
the art of the festive life. That which, exposed to the rays of the midday sun, under the
feverish quill of the poet becomes « Cette terre sans ombre où saigne le raisin » (this
shadowless land where bleeds the grape). That which, lastly, knows how to welcome the
traveller as the oracle of a new day. That land where everything is there, naturally there…
Aude, the Cathar Country.
AGENCE DE DÉVELOPPEMENT TOURISTIQUE DE L’AUDE
Allée Raymond-Courrière - 11855 CARCASSONNE CEDEX 9
Tél. : 00 33 (0)4 68 11 66 00 - Fax : 00 33 (0)4 68 11 66 01
[email protected]
www.audetourisme.com
www.lesentiercathare.com
CRÉDIT
PHOTO
Tous droits de reproduction réservés sauf autorisation préalable.
Supplément gratuit. Ne peut être vendu.
Toutes les photos sont de Paul Palau sauf : Couverture Aude Pays cathare : Lauragais-tourisme/C. Deschamps (bd). Patrimoine : Ph. Benoist :
p. 9(h) ; Pays Touristique Corbières Minervois : p. 10(m). Littoral : Le Grand Narbonne : p. 13(h), 15(md), 16(hg et m), 18(h et m), 19(h) ; Ph. Benoist :
p. 15(mg), 16(hd), 19(b) ; L’Espace de Liberté : p. 18(b). Gastronomie : Ph. Benoist : p. 20(h) et 23(m) ; Flâneries d’un passant : p. 23(h et b) ; Safran
de l’Île Saint-Martin : p. 24(m). Vignoble : Domaine de l’Hospitalet : p. 25(b), 30(b) ; Ph. Benoist : p. 29(h) ; Les Grands Buffets : p. 30(hg) ; Office de
Tourisme de Gruissan : p. 30(hd) ; Vin4 heures tour : p.31(b). Nature : Pays Touristique Corbières Minervois : p. 33(b), 34(m) ; Pays Touristique Corbières
Minervois/G. et C. Deschamps : p.33(h), 34(b), 35(h), 36(h), 37(h), 38(b) ; Ph. Benoist : p. 35(b), 39(h et b) ; Soularac Sport : 38(h). Arts : Thierry Auneau :
p. 40(hg) ; Pays Touristique Corbières Minervois : p. 41(hd) ; Journées Faucilles ouvertes : p.42 (h) ; Ateliers Musée Montolieu : p. 43(hg), 44(mg) ; Office
de Tourisme de Gruissan : p. 42(b), 44(b) ; Ph. Benoist : p. 44(h et md). Guide pratique : Pays Touristique Corbières Minervois : p. 45(bg) ; Ph. Benoist :
p. 45(hm) ; La Marbrerie : p. 46(b), 49(hd) ; L’Espinet : p. 46(h) ; Legendes-doc.com : p. 47(hd) ; Office de Tourisme du Pays de Couiza : p. 47(b) ; Office
de Tourisme de Gruissan : p. 48(h) ; Ph. Benoist : p. 48(b) ; Thierry Auneau : p. 49(hg). Toutes les cartes sont de H. Fuggetta.
contents
p. 6
A TRULY LIVING HERITAGE
Romanity, Middle Ages, Catharism:
witnesses of Aude’s richness, its
exceptional sites spring to life with
a long list of festive, cultural and
sporting events.
TARN
HAUTE
GARONNE
La Pomarède
Vers
T
D 611
3
3
Bram
Cabardès
Cabrespine
Limousis
CaunesMinervois
Conquessur-Orbiel
23
Trèbes
Puichéric
Capendu
m
24
23
Malepère
Peyriac-Minervois
Minervois
C
Montréal
D3
Cavanac
8
D 11
D 623

A
Saint-Hilaire
L’
m
Limoux
20
D6
C
22
Fanjeaux
D 102
Aragon
Alzonne
11
D6
25
L
D6
 M


L’O
21
D6
Belpech
C

Montolieu
Abbaye de
Villelongue
18
Plan d’eau de
La Ganguise
Lastours
D1
Sallessur-l’Hers
SaintPapoul
m
1
Les Ilhes
D 103
Castelnaudary
A6
Mas-Cabardès
Saissac
Seuil de Naurouze
Pic de Nore
(1 210 m)
Lagrasse
Limoux
D 620
L’O


ARIÈGE
Alet-les-bains
Espéraza Couiza
Arques
D 613
Rennesles-Bains
Puivert
Quillan
Mouthoumet
Bugarach
Pech de Bugarach
(1 230 m)
Espezel
Belcaire Roquefeuil
Axat
Grotte de
l’Aguzou
Lapradelle
Le Dourmidou
(1 843 m)
Pic de Madrès
(2 469 m)
4 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
C
18
D1
D 613
Vers
A--T
Termes

H 
 ’A
Chalabre
Puilaurens
Peyrepertuse
Cucugnan
Quéribus
D 117
Saint-Paulde-Fenouillet
PYRÉNÉES
ORIENTALES
Maury
p. 12
BESIDE THE BEAUTIFUL BLUE
On the programme: idleness or water
games on 50 km of sun-drenched beaches,
leisure and discovery activities on the
nearby lakes and lagoons.
p. 20
ON THE LIMOUX FRICASSÉE AND
WINE ROUTE
p. 25
AUDE VINEYARDS, THE
ALPHABET BOOK
p. 40
A LAND OF ARTS AND
TRADITIONS
A, for Aude; B, for Bubbles; C for
Corbières… welcome to the heart
of ancient vineyards.
Memories, know-how: come
and share in the authentic local
traditions.
p. 32
A UNIQUE PLAYGROUND
p. 45
DISCOVERY GUIDE
Sailing, white-water, hiking; beaches,
canyons, lakes or mountain peaks: choose
your activity in its natural surroundings.
Set out to meet a savoury age-old tradition and
its best ambassadors today: the professionals
working in this sector.
The special favourites and best
addresses… All you’ll need
to make a success of
your stay.
HÉRAULT
Port de
la Robine
Plan d’eau de
Jouarres
Ouveillan
Le Somail
Ginestas
Homps
ArgensMinervois
LézignanCorbières
Sallèlesd’AudeC
D 6113
13
D6
11
D6
Corbières
Bages
39
Sigean
Fontjoncouse
DurbanCorbières
D 61
Narbonne-Plage
Gruissan-Plage
LÉGENDE
Abbaye,édifice religieux
m
Vins
Vins A.O.P
A.O.P de
de l’Aude
l’Aude
Aude AOP wines
Abbey, religious building
Port-la-Nouvelle
Château
Vignobles
Vignobles && Découvertes
Découvertes
Vineyards & discoveries
Castle
Site majeur du Pays Cathare
Treilles
40
Fitou
A9
Tuchan
Quatourze
Aguilar
Leucate
Plus
Plus Beaux
Beaux Villages
Villages de
de France
France
Most beautiful villages in France
Major Cathar country sites
La Palme
La Franqui
1
-M
37
38
Gruissan
É  B
  S
A 9 Peyriac de Mer

L B
Fleury d’Aude
Saint-Pierre-la-mer
Armissan
La Clape
R
 L
Abbaye de
Fontfroide
m
A9
Les Cabanes de Fleury
Coursan

N
L N
Bizanet
 M
VillerougeTermenès
Cuxac-d’Aude

D6
07
Boutenac
Vers
B 
M
m
Patrimoine mondial
m
Port
Port et
et halte
halte de
de plaisance
plaisance
World Heritage Site
Port and leisure stopping place
Musée de France
Office
Office de
de tourisme/
tourisme/
Syndicat
Syndicat d’initiative
d’initiative
French National Museum
Tourist / information office
Grotte
Service
Service tourisme
tourisme
Cave
Port-Leucate
Tourism service
Golf
Train
Train touristique
touristique
Golf course
Tourist train
Station balnéaire
Vers
P  ’E
E
S
É  L
  S
Railway station
Station thermale
Aéroport
Aéroport
Spa resort
Airport
Sport d’eau vive
Péage
Péage
Whitewater sports
N
O
Gare
Gare
Seaside resort
0
5
10 Km
Activités nautiques
Water sports
Sites VTT-FFC
Mountain bike-cycling sites
37
37
Toll
Réseau
Réseau Ferré
Ferré de
de France
France
Railway line
Chef-lieu
Chef-lieu de
de canton
canton
Canton administrative centre
Commune/Hameau
Commune/Hameau
Village/hamlet
Sentier
Sentier Cathare
Cathare
Cathar Trail
A
TRULY LIVING
HERITAGE
Rare are the départements that
have traces of all the great
periods of history that go down
so deep. In Aude you will travel
to the land of the dinosaurs,
you will enter into the world of
the Romans, you will follow the
saga of the Cathars or of the
construction of the Canal du Midi.
And, as here heritage rhymes with
festivities, the most beautiful
monuments live to the tempo
of concerts, plays, historical
reconstitutions and events of
every shape and size.
T
he night is sweet, clear and summery.
On the centuries-old paving stones,
everyone’s hurrying along. Heading
for the Théâtre Jean Deschamps where the
basses bounce off the ramparts, while the first
guitar riff streaks through the Carcassonne
night. The Cité is there, luminous, unique,
magnified by the crowd and this stage which
catches fire on this festival evening.
In Aude – the département that hosts the
longest carnival in the world, the one in
Limoux, if you please! – festivity is a religion and the past a heritage that is there to
be shared. It is therefore quite naturally that
the great monuments and the most beautiful
6 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
natural sites serve as a casket for a variety
of colourful events, put on for children and
adults alike, for ears that love classical music
or those hooked on techno. The Canal du Midi,
the Romanesque abbeys, the Cathar Country
castles, the not-so-well known little churches,
they all lend themselves to this festive game.
Narbonne the Roman and Carcassonne the
Medieval, Aude’s two major cities are the first
to strive to outdo each other in the craziness
and excitement stakes. They each get dressed
up to the nines, each one seems to make
the summer nights longer. Starting on 21st
June, the date of the Music Festival and the
day the summer festivities begin, Narbonne
opens the hostilities, never allowing the
pace to slacken until the end of the summer.
Meanwhile, there’s a succession of concerts,
shows and endless evenings. The ‘Musiques
au présent’ festival, a veritable springboard
for promising artists, takes over the Theatre
and Narbonne’s most beautiful monuments,
whereas the ‘Barques en scène’ festival sets
the Canal – a UNESCO World Heritage Site
– alight in the heart of the freshly renovated
town between the Marchands bridge, Cours
Mirabeau and Robine. Around the Roman
City, rich with 2,500 years of history, from
Gruissan to the heart of the Corbières passing through the Minervois, the ‘Tempora
du Grand Narbonne’ proposes an artistic
exploration where music, song, humour and
theatre make themselves at home in some
twenty different districts.
AND NOW FOR SOME MUSIC
In Carcassonne, the town thinks big with the
‘Embrasement de la cité’ fireworks display
which attracts an impressive crowd every
14th July, and a festival that stretches out all
summer long. The greatest French and international artistes – Bob Dylan, Elton John,
Iggy Pop, Daho, Doré… – have performed
under the stars in the splendid Théâtre JeanDeschamps, backing on to the ramparts. Split
between some ten different venues, concerts
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 7
of every type and style (classical, pop, rock,
electro, hip-hop), plays and operas follow on
from one another. Two hundred thousand
spectators attend more than one hundred
events, more than half of which are free. It
would be a great pity to miss out on the Place
Carnot, in the heart of the walled city, and its
unforgettable fringe festival nights. But this
year, besides Sting’s concert (on 26th July in
the Cité), the festival will boast a new stage at
the Fajeolle racecourse, inaugurated by Johnny Hallyday (16th July), followed by Patrick
Bruel (18th July), in front of 10,000 people gathered together to celebrate the tenth birthday
of a festival that is now one of the greats.
ALONG THE CANAL DU MIDI
Some forty kilometres from there, Castelnaudary, capital of the Lauragais area, also has
an architectural jewel highlighted by a series
of events. On the Canal du Midi, the ‘Grand
bassin’ imagined by Pierre-Paul Riquet is a
unique seven-hectare civil engineering work
(that is to say the same size as the Cité de
Carcassonne) where the ‘gabare’
boats carried grain down to Sète
or over to the Atlantic. Today it is
from Cybèle Island that the Bastille Day fireworks display is set
off, with its multicoloured rockets
reflecting off the waters of the Canal. Starting
from the harbour, on the Cassoulet Festival
Saturday, there is also the UFO (Unidentified
Floating Object) race. Tens of ‘boats’, as precarious as they are whimsical, made in the
nearby villages by various local associations,
clash on the waves, doing all they can to push
back the moment when they will inevitably
sink. All round the département, the Canal
du Midi also serves as the decor for ‘Convivencia’, an atypical, roaming festival that focuses
on World Music. In the summer a barge sails
along the waterway, stopping off in the evening in different harbours to put on a concert
from the craft’s deck. In Bram, Carcassonne,
Marseillette or Le Somail harbour, there’s
always an enthusiastic audience.■
The Great Cathar Raid
This year on th, th and th October a unique event will bring together our heritage,
not with music or the theatre, but with a major sporting challenge. Judge for yourselves:
the ‘Grand Raid Cathare’ association is organising the first Aude cross-country trail, with
three races reserved for endurance enthusiasts. The runners set off from the Carcassonne,
Narbonnaise Gateway along three different routes, the first one is  km long, the second 
kilometres and the third an amazing  kilometres! On the programme for this last route, a
positive altitude difference of more than , metres through woods, rocks and vineyards,
but above all going through the courtyard of the Château d’Arques, passing by the peaks of
Peyrepertuse and Pech de Bugarach before arriving one or two days later in front of the Cité
de Carcassonne, as luminous as ever in the autumn nights.
To find out more: www.grandraid-cathares.fr
8 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
This is an event that is both
sporting and festive, with a
tang of the terroir and of our
heritage. The Carcassonne
marathon will be getting off to a
great start on 6th and 7th June
– this is a new event on the
sporting calendar but it aims
to quickly become an absolute
must in France. What makes it
so attractive? That’s obvious:
starting from the medieval
city, the route goes across the
‘Pont Vieux’, runs through the
vineyards, alongside the Canal
du Midi and then the Cité’s
ramparts before arriving at the
Domec Stadium. And as usual
you will find the festive spirit of
the people of Aude, with crazy,
colourful fancy-dress races.
www.marathoncarcassonne.com
❚ A NIGHT IN THE SAINTPAPOUL CLOISTER
When the visitor pushes open
the door of Saint-Papoul
abbey, it’s nearly 1,200 years
of history that suddenly
spring to life. Backing on to
the foothills of the Montagne
Noire, its Bishop’s Palace saw
a succession of 34 bishops
before being pillaged at the
time of the French Revolution,
and finally being magnificently
renovated. Today, when you
sit down in the cloister in the
starlight, it’s to listen to a
tune strummed on a guitar,
a troubadours’ recital, or to
admire a dance performance.
Created in 1997, the SaintPapoul cultural association
is responsible for running
the site and disseminating
culture in rural areas.
This summer the season
will last three months.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 94 97 75
www.abbaye-saint-papoul.fr
❚ OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
In the shadows of world-famous
monuments, these breathtaking
‘dizzy citadels’ that inhabit
the local imagination, several
sites – whether heritage or
natural sites, gardens or
museums – have got together
in an association to create
the aptly named Sur les
chemins de traverse en Pays
cathare association. From
the giant Cabrespine chasm
to the Brousse-et-Villaret
paper mill, passing via the
Espéraza dinosaur museum
and Les Clauses honeyhouse
in Montséret, these places
invite you to discover Aude,
off the beaten track.
» visit with the family
❚ CLASSICAL MUSIC IN
CAUNES–MINERVOIS
❚ A PASSPORT TO HISTORY
Attention all heritage lovers:
in Aude, the more you visit the
more you save. Saint-Papoul
or Alet abbey, the medieval
fortified town of Fanjeaux,
Saissac or Carcassonne castle,
Quercorb museum… Twentyone of the département’s
historical, must-see sites have
grouped together to offer a
shared passport. Sold for just
€2 at the entrance to each
site, it allows you to get a €1
reduction from the second
visit onwards, and even free
entry for 6 to 15-year-olds.
www.audetourisme.com/
fr/decouvrir/histoire-etpatrimoine/sites-poles.php
In the home of pink marble,
classical music and vocal art are
on the programme. Intimately,
the Caunes-Minervois Classical
Fridays give the summer its
rhythm in this Minervois town.
The concerts take place beside
the Romanesque abbey, in an
enchanting open-air theatre.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 76 34 74
www.lesvendredisdecaunes.fr
❚ WATER, EARTH, WINE
In Sallèles-d’Aude, Amphoralis plunges us into this Gallo-Roman
history that has so deeply marked everything about Narbonne.
On the banks of the Canal de Jonction – which joins the Canal
du Midi to the Canal de la Robine – a veritable craftsmen’s
quarter was discovered in the 1970s further to a series of
archaeological digs. There used to be a pottery workshop,
operating as early as 20 to 30 BC, where the famous amphorae
were made for transporting the wine from Rome’s oldest colony.
Besides its remarkable educational museographic space, the
site breathes life back into this ancestral craft thanks to its
reconstituted kilns, demonstrations and pottery courses. Each
third weekend of July, the banks of the Canal de Jonction are
also the scene of a festival that brings together the three
elements that make the reputation of Sallèles and its region:
water, earth and wine. On the programme, spectacular jousting
on the waters of the canal, an arts & crafts market, children’s
games, tastings and musical entertainments.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 46 89 48 – culture.legrandnarbonne.com
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 9
PRACTICAL GUIDE
❚ AT A BRISK PACE OR
JUST AMBLING ALONG
❚ WHERE TO FIND
OUT MORE
PRACTICAL GUIDE
Carcassonne Tourist Office
28, rue de Verdun.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 10 24 30
www.tourisme-carcassonne.fr
Castelnaudary-Lauragais
Audois Intercommunal
Tourist Office
Place de la République.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 23 05 73
www.castelnaudarytourisme.com
Narbonne Tourist Office
31, rue Jean-Jaurès.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 65 15 60
www.narbonne-tourisme.com
❚ A BANQUET AND BOOKS
Lagrasse has its Romanesque
abbey, its beach on the Orbieu
and its café-bookshop. In a part
of the building dating back to
the 13th and 14th centuries,
the Banquet du livre et des
générations is in fact much
more than a bookshop. All year
long, they discuss literature
and the humanities there. You
can also perfect your style
under the guidance of famous
authors. Every season the
Marque-page association,
which runs the place, organises
a festival. This summer
(from 8th to 14th August),
the theme of the summer
version of the banquet will be
“what is foreign to us”. Film
shows, workshops, readings,
hikes through the garrigue
scrublands and aperitifs in
the garden are announced.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 32 63 89
www.lamaisondubanquet.fr
❚ SAINT-HILAIRE: THEATRE AND BUBBLY
❚ PUILAURENS: THE FRONTIER CITADEL
If ever there was a place
where heritage rhymed with
festivities, it’s got to be SaintHilaire abbey. In a Tuscan style
decor, it was here that the
Benedictine monks invented the
first bubbly wine in the world,
in other words the must-have
ingredient for all festivities.
In the cradle of Blanquette
de Limoux, the 14th-century
cloister today hosts exhibitions,
various workshops, not to
mention theatrical readings
in the framework of the Nava
festival (New Authors in the
Valley of the Aude) created by
Jean-Marie Besset, which is also
organised on Sournies Island
in Limoux and in the open-air
theatre at Serres Castle.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 69 62 76.
www.audetourisme.com/
diffusio/fr/a-voir-a-faire/cultureet-patrimoine/saint-hilaire/
abbaye-de-saint-hilaire_
TFOPCULAR0110000016.php
Perched at an altitude of 700
metres above the village of
Lapradelle, Puilaurens Castle
served as refuge for hundreds
of Cathars. Puilaurens, was
also the southernmost fortress
in France, marking the frontier
with Aragon until the time of
the Treaty of the Pyrenees
(1659). As for the architecture,
the castle is a perfect example
of the military art of the
Middle Ages. Taking the paths
bordered with low stone walls
that zigzag along the Cliff side,
you will fi nd remarkable
castellated curtain walls, the
four towers and above all an
incomparable view of the Upper
Aude Valley and Corbières.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 65 26.
www.audetourisme.com/
diffusio/fr/a-voir-a-faire/cultureet-patrimoine/puilaurens/
chateau-de-puilaurens_
TFOPCULAR0110000007.php
Something special
❚ VERTIGO IN PEYREPERTUSE
More than ever, on 6th June Peyrepertuse will deserve its name of the ‘dizzy
citadel’. The little village of Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse will be organising its
first International Extreme Sports event there. But, if you want to admire the
most spectacular performances you’ll have to look up into the skies where
Fred Fugen and Vince Reff et, two base-jump and wing-suit artists (the Soul
Flyers) will leap from the peak of the citadel – that means 816 m of void! The
Soul Flyers have already accomplished this feat from the tallest building
in the world, the Burj Khalifa in Dubai, but this is the first time they will
be doing it from a historical site. To complete this grandiose picture, three
acrobatic paraglider champions will off er dazzling demonstrations around
this citadel of… vertigo.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 69 40 – www.chateau-peyrepertuse.com
10 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
CARCASSONNE
À L’INTÉRIEUR DE LA CITÉ MÉDIÉVALE,
UNE VISITE INCONTOURNABLE :
LE CHÂTEAU ET SES REMPARTS !
Nouveautés 2015
• le rempart médiéval et son histoire cathare
• un audio-guide conté pour les enfants
LE REMPART MÉDIÉVAL OUEST / 30 mns
sortie basilique Saint-Nazaire
et Saint-Celse
LE REMPART GALLO-ROMAIN NORD / 20 mns
sortie porte Narbonnaise
LE CHÂTEAU / 1 h
départs visites
remparts nord et ouest
arcassonne
Plusieurs visites possibles
visite libre, audio-guidée, commentée, conférence
Billet valable toute la journée
dernière entrée 45 minutes avant la fermeture
• d’avril à septembre : tous les jours, de 10h à 18h30
• d’octobre à mars : tous les jours, de 9h30 à 17h
Gratuit pour les moins de 26 ans [ ressortissants de l’Union Européenne et résidents réguliers sur le territoire ]
© photo : Jean-Marc Lopez - Jean-Louis Gasc - Alain Lonchampt - CMN / paris © plan : Philippe Biard
www.carcassonne.monuments-nationaux.fr
Beside
the
BEAUTIFUL
BLUE
Bathed in a sunlight that is benevolent for vines and
man alike and endowed with absolutely remarkable
geographical features, the Narbonnaise Surprenante
Méditerranée deploys its finery along  kilometres
of coast, lagoons and mountains. So many playgrounds
dedicated to idleness, discovery and even to livelier,
not say sportier, activities, to share with your family
or friends…
I
n the distance, down there, the silhouettes of the Corbières, Minervois
and Massif de la Clape hills vie to grab
the limelight and add the finishing touch to
the idyllic postcard of a region blessed by the
gods. Their stony ground quickly gives way
to vast lagoons – Bages, Campignol, Sèche,
Ayrolle, Charlot, La Berre… – forerunners
of the Great Blue languidly stretching out
over 50 kilometres. When you see it from
the coast, this panorama imposes a strong
presence, that of a region of character, with
12 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
its unspoilt wild beauty. The fine sandy
beaches of Port-Leucate, Port-la-Nouvelle,
Gruissan, Narbonne-Plage, La-Palme and
Saint-Pierre-la-Mer bear witness to this
constant preoccupation with marrying
the human with nature in a harmonious
whole. It’s not for nothing that they collect
the labels – “Blue Flag”, “Famille Plus”
– and that just nearby you’ll find the Narbonnaise en Méditerranée regional nature
park… But these seaside resorts punctuating the coast are far from being sleeping
beauties. Modern or more classical, they
compete to outdo each other in inventiveness and offer the best of all they’ve got
to anyone who visits them. They offer a
broad range of opportunities for spending
your holidays actively, discovering this
majestic nature along with the heritage of
Narbonne, Gruissan and the Narbonnaise
Surprenante Méditerranée as a whole.
There’s plenty there to spoil the visitor…
for choice! ■
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 13
THE NARBONNAISE SURPRENANTE MÉDITERRANÉE,
A WORLD APART
Walking to get to beautiful viewpoints over the sea
and nature, cycling, riding, sailing… the options are
endless for making the most of the wide open spaces
of the Narbonne area. In Leucate and NarbonnePlage, a sand yacht will allow you – starting from
the age of 7 – to appreciate the vast expanses of
fine sand bathed by a generous sun. If your muscles
are up to it, you can go paddle-boarding along the
coast, or perhaps “La Littorale” cycle track strikes
your fancy, it runs from Narbonne to Saint-Pierre
passing through Gruissan (bicycle hire possible in
all three resorts). Unless the gang would prefer the
tranquillity of the lagoons? Then, departing from
14 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
the Port Mahon watersports centre in Sigean, by
canoe or catamaran, if you’re interested in nature
all you’ll have to do is open your eyes to admire
the local flora and fauna… And if you really want to
take your time, get a breath of fresh air and walk
at your own pace, take the 7-kilometre (long tour)
or the 3-kilometre (short tour) trail through the
Île de Sainte Lucie nature reserve, that’s the best
way of getting close to these 825 hectares of pure
nature. South of the Bages lagoon and of Sigean,
you can visit the island – respectfully and at the
coolest hours of the day – to make even more of
this place and its totally unspoilt nature.
NARBONNE-PLAGE, IN THE HEART OF THE NARBONNAISE
EN MÉDITERRANÉE REGIONAL NATURE PARK
To the east of Narbonne, it’s possible to dip your
toes in the water in less time than it takes to say
it! Between Gruissan to the south and Saint-Pierrela-Mer to the north, after you’ve crossed the Massif
de la Clape, Narbonne-Plage stretches out over
5 kilometres of fine sand. The seaside resort has
a marina with 600 moorings that fits in perfectly
with a resolutely natural setting. That’s perfectly
normal, it is in the heart of the Narbonnaise en
Méditerranée regional nature park! With the “Pavillon
Bleu d’Europe” label since the end of the nineteen
eighties for the quality of its water and of its harbour,
Narbonne-Plage proposes a very large number of
nautical activities. The Evasport Municipal Centre
has facilities (swimming pool, sauna, hammam, etc.)
open to all and the Espace Beach proposes a wide
range of à la carte sports activities (beach volley,
beach soccer, beach rugby, etc.)
And there’s no lack of options for varying your
pleasures and visiting Narbonne in an original
way: for example, go on foot or by bicycle along
the 32 kilometres of the Canal de la Robine – a
side branch of the Canal du Midi linking the River
Aude to the sea – to better appreciate the multimillennial heritage that constitutes the town’s
wealth.
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 15
PORT-LA-NOUVELLE: ALL THE PLEASURES
OF THE HARBOUR AND THE BEACH
Port-la-Nouvelle, a fishing and commercial harbour
town, has a lovely 13-kilometre fine sandy beach
where there are loads of sporting activities on offer
(sailing, windsurfing, sand yachting, etc). You can
go to the fish market – oh so typical – when the
fishing boats come in around four in the afternoon.
Port-la-Nouvelle is also the starting point for the
Sentier Cathare, well-known to all hikers. It’s a
250-kilometre trail that will take you all the way
to Foix in Ariège. On foot, mountainbike or horseback, the choice is yours for cultivating your mind,
recharging your batteries and enjoying the tasty
terroir specialities on offer all along your journey.
www.lesentiercathare.com
FROM LEUCATE TO FLEURY, FAMILY BEACHES
From the cliffs of Leucate, you can
look out into the distance and discover the 18 kilometres of beach
spreading their vast expanses out
towards Port-la-Nouvelle, Fleury and
Saint-Pierre-la-Mer. The world famous
spot at Leucate is a paradise for heady
board-sport sensations. You can go
windsurfing, do a bit of stand-up paddle, or wakeboarding, not to mention
sand-yachting on the wide open spaces
at La Franqui for example… You can
also set out to discover the coastline
on foot or by bike to better enjoy all
the goodness of the fresh air. Once
you have passed the lovely beaches
of Port-la-Nouvelle, you will easily
reach Narbonne-Plage and then SaintPierre-la-Mer. A seaside resort joined
on to the village of Fleury-d’Aude and
the old fishing village of Cabanes de
Fleury, Saint-Pierre seems to be a
world apart, dedicated to families,
all in harmony with nature.
WALKS WITH A VIEW
The Massif de la Clape – in Occitan “clapas” means
“heap of stones” – covered with oak and pine trees,
not to mention the vineyards stretching out as far
as the eye can see, is the largest listed natural
site in Languedoc-Roussillon. A veritable green
lung linking Narbonne to Narbonne-Plage, its
rocky plateaus will challenge the determination
of walkers, its lovely cliffs will spur on the rockclimbers. But the unobstructed view of the sea
is well worth the effort!
16 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
GRUISSAN, LAKESIDE
TOWN AND NATURE
With Notre-Dame des Auzils, the “Barberousse” tower serves as a landmark for fishermen coming back from their escapades at sea.
You can approach this 11th century castle along
the little circular road that winds up around the
village of Gruissan. Here, history goes hand in
hand with modernity and a peaceful aura radiates from Mateille beach, Ayguades or the
Chalets quarter, which you can explore on foot,
by bicycle or even at the controls of a Segway. A
green vehicle well worth testing in ‘strong sensations mode’ or during a guided tour along the
quays, cycle tracks and village streets.
But you’ll have to leave the village too, to discover the mythical Massif de la Clape and the
vineyards clinging to the slopes leading up to
this rocky plateau. Beware: for this last walk,
there is something you must be aware of: you
won’t be able to hear your mobile phone ring,
for the song of the cicadas…
NOTRE-DAME DES AUZILS
Symbols of Gruissan’s maritime
tradition, the seamen’s cemetery
and the Notre-Dame des Auzils
chapel really are an absolute must.
Tranquillity is what characterises
these places where this edifice was
constructed in 1635. Before it was
built the monks from Cassan abbey
in neighbouring Hérault had set up a
priory here in 1080 where they welcomed travellers crossing the Massif
de la Clape on foot. The building was
listed as a Historic Monument in
1964, as was the Auzils site in 1973
as a Historic Site. The special thing
about this church is that its choir is
built over the Saint-Salvaire cave.
Beside the path going to this astonishing chapel, there are twenty-six
cenotaphs (tombs without bodies)
that were erected in memory of sailors lost at sea in 1844. The charm of
this place, which you can see from far
out to sea, means that it has always
occupied an important place in the
hearts of the fishermen of Gruissan.
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 17
Something special
GLISSE & KITE, sailing and kitesurf club welcomes board and
PRACTICAL GUIDE
water sports enthusiasts on the secure Pissevaches lagoon or on the
coast at Saint-Pierre-la-Mer. From April to October, the supervised
sailing, discovery tandem, themed weekends and weeks will allow
you to master all the different types of wind you can find here: the
Tramontane, thermals in the summer or the sea wind will no longer hold
any secrets for you… And to make the most of an active sports stay,
there are five mobile-homes at your disposal at the nearby camp site.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 22 31 or 00 33 (0)6 70 62 90 64
www.glisseetkite.eu
❚ FLEURY D’AUDE –
SAINT-PIERRE-LA-MER
Antalis plongée
Introduction to diving
and exploration starting
from the age of 6.
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 10 17 29 15
www.antalis-caraga.fr
JetXtreme
On the programme at this
centre located directly on
the beach: jet ski, jet kid,
tubing, rubber ring, flyfish,
flyboard and hoverboard.
The choice is yours!
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 01 20 61 01
www.jetxtreme11.com
Nauti Parc
Boat hire with or without
a license, jet ski, kayak,
jet rider and paddle-board,
all you need to satisfy all
your desires. Open every
day from 8am to 8pm.
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 51 91 77 68
www.nautiparc.com
❚ GRUISSAN
Let’s go diving!
In Gruissan, the Europlongée
centre organises themed
exploration dives (wrecks,
at night, fauna, etc.) and
courses for children and adults
so you can wonder at the
magic of the sea-bottom.
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 13 51 90 05
www.plongee-gruissan.fr
Water games
Besides the other board sports
(kite, wind…), windsurfing
(Gruissan is a veritable paradise
for this!), catamaran, sea kayak,
paddle board are amongst
the activities proposed by the
Gruissan watersports centre.
An acrobatic park and inflatable
games will amuse the children
while the adults do all they can
to avoid falling into the water!
For all the enthusiasts and
everyone wanting to learn…
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 33 33
www.polenautique-gruissan.com
» visit with the family
‘ESPACE DE LIBERTÉ’ IN NARBONNE
It’s on a unique site that the Espace de Liberté offers a multitude
of sports and leisure activities. There’s something for everyone!
Relax in the aquatic area with its indoor and outdoor pools,
its pentagliss – a four-track slide — and its water at 27°C at
least (starting from €5.70 for adults and €3.70 for children). A
new space dedicated to aquafitness will see the light of day in
September. You don’t want to take a dip?
Why not go for a spin at the ice rink (closed in July and August)
(€6.50 for adults and €6 for children). And real adrenaline freaks
can try the ice go-karting (€8 to €26). Lastly, you mustn’t miss
the play of light and dazzling fun at the bowling alley (€22 at
weekends for 4 people) and let the best man win!
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 42 17 89 - www.espacedeliberte.fr
18 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
Boat hire
Les Bateaux bleus
Electric boat hire, no license
required, possibility of hiring
for half- or full-days.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 91 26 95
Ochapy Voile
Sailing boat hire with or without
skipper, lessons for beginners..
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 61 84 88 10
www.ochapy.com
Passion voile
To experience all the pleasures
of sailing, learning to sail
and mastering the boat,
suitable for everyone.
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 21 68 33 08
❚ LEUCATE
Cap’Eau Large
Several boat hire options, by
the day, weekend or week.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 32 90 96
or 00 33 (0)6 17 50 65 99
Gruissan Port à sec
Motorboat hire to
discover 50 kilometers of
Narbonnaise coastline.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 32 74 57
Discovering the sea bottom
State-approved instructors
and diving specialists for
children, dispense their
know-how. They also organise
group dives, first dives and
courses, and flipper outings.
Leucate Plongée
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 09 95 71 70
http://leucateplongee.free.fr
Plongée Calypso
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 71 00 69 54
www.calypso-in.com
Boat hire
Motorboat hire with or
without license, waterski,
wakeboard, tubing, board
sports equipment…
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 89 73
www.loca-detente.fr
❚ NARBONNE AND AREA
Esprit Nature
The meeting of sea and
mountains favours sports as
varied as sailing, sand yachting,
sea kayak, paddle surf, jet ski,
sports fi shing, mountainbike,
hiking, climbing, canyoning,
beach volley and much more
besides… All these activities,
supervised by professional
service-providers, can be
enjoyed in the framework
of the Esprit Nature leisure
centre in Narbonne-Plage.
www.mairie-narbonne.fr/
fr_esprit-nature-narbonnebase-de-loisirs
Underwater
The Club subaquatique de
Narbonne, the oldest diving club
in Aude, proposes ‘first dives’,
lessons and discovery courses.
Children aged 8 and over can
also put on a mask, flippers
and cylinders to chase aſter the
fish and really get an eyeful!
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 03 64
www.csn-narbonne.fr
Navalia watersports centre
The centre proposes a broad
range of activities for children
and adults at the NarbonnePlage sailing club: outings in
sailing boats, diving, fishing
and surfing simulators, canoe
kayak, rowing, surf, etc. The
watersports festival is held
on 13th and 14th June.
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 09 81 29 98
ou 00 33 (0)6 01 92 89 89
http://navalia11.skyrock.com
Going back in time
Port-la-Nautique, Narbonne’s
ancient port, is located in the
heart of the Bages-Sigean
lagoon complex, to the southwest of Narbonne. Already
in Celtic times it served as a
harbour and even more so in
Roman times. A number of
archaeological sites have been
found, revealing numerous,
important remains. Regattas,
fi shing competitions, activity
days around old sailing ships
are regularly organised there.
Société nautique de Narbonne
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 32 26 06
http://lanautiquenarbonne.
unblog.fr
École de voile La Nautique
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 65 17 53
Just around the corner
from the savannah
A total immersion in the
universe of the African
savannah, meeting Grant
zebras, white-tailed gnus, white
rhinoceros, Tibetan bears or
the king of the savannah, all
that and more at the Réserve
africaine de Sigean! In total the
park is home to more than 3,800
animals that live in freedom
on more than 300 hectares.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 48 20 20
www.reserveafricainesigean.fr
❚ BOAT HIRE
C a n oe s a n d c at a mar a n s
on the lagoons
To discover the lagoons of the
Narbonne area on the waves,
hiring possible in Port-Mahon
and Sigean.
Phone: 00 33 (0)960 181 370
or 00 33 (0)6 06 667 842
www.port-mahon-voile.com
Le Solal
In the heart of Narbonne, from
June to September, discover the
Canal de la Robine in a ‘gabarre’
traditional boat.
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 79 55 93 43
Office municipal de Tourisme
de Fleury-Saint-Pierre la Mer
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 46 61 31
www.communefleury.fr
PRACTICAL GUIDE
L’île aux loisirs
On the shores of Port Leucate
lagoon, the Île aux Loisirs
natural area proposes boats
(no license required), canoes,
pedalos, bream fishing,
getting close to the Île aux
Oiseaux and its seagulls…
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 20 37 65 19
www.lileauxloisirs.com
The mobile app
Available on smartphones and
tablets, the “Narbonne Tour”
application provides you with
all you need to know about
Narbonne free of charge and in
real time. Among other things, it
allows you to follow the nature
and urban hiking circuits.
www.narbonne-tourisme.
com/narbonne-tour
❚ WHERE TO FIND OUT
MORE
Office de Tourisme
de Gruissan
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 09 00
www.gruissan-mediterranée.com
Office de Tourisme
de La Palme
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 48 56 88
www.lapalme-tourisme.com
Office de Tourisme
Leucate Méditerranée
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 91 31
www.tourisme-leucate.fr
Office de Tourisme
de Narbonne
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 65 15 60
www.narbonne-tourisme.com
Office de Tourisme
de Port-la-Nouvelle
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 48 00 51
www.portlanouvelle.fr
Office de Tourisme de Sigean
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 48 14 81
www.tourisme-sigean.fr
Les Petits Bateaux du Canal
Hiring of little electric boats,
easy to handle for children and
adults alike, on the Canal de
la Robine – a UNESCO World
Heritage Site – in the historic
centre of Narbonne.
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 15 65 12 51
Domaine Sainte-Marthe
From April to September, visit
the Narbonne nature reserve on
electric boats.
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 82 90 19 76
Something special
NEARLY 400 KM OF PATHS!
A major stopping place for bird migration and wintering, the Narbonnaise en Méditerranée regional nature park is one of the rare
unspoilt natural sites on the shores of the Mediterranean on such
a large scale (70,000 hectares). Between the Corbières massif and
the coastal lagoons, it offers 373 kilometres of signposted paths
to be taken on foot or by mountainbike. Various activities (themed
storytelling, traditional day at la Manade, winemakers’ tour, pastoral
circuit, sensorial and creative walk…) will allow you to appreciate
all the riches of this area that are so precious for its biodiversity
and beauty.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 42 23 70 - www.parc-naturel-narbonnaise.fr
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 19
On the
LIMOUX FRICASSÉE
and WINE Route
Conviviality, that’s the keyword that accompanies a
fricassée! Prepared for over a century in the farms of
Limoux, this dish was a treat for all the family and
neighbours who came to give a lending hand to prepare the
meat, pâtés, sausages and so on, on “pig-slaughter” day.
Discover a tradition that is still very much alive, along with
a savoury dish.
T
he Limoux fricassée (sometimes
called fréginat) is, besides cassoulet, Aude’s other culinary speciality. One symbolic of the Limoux area,
and the other of Lauragais. To discover this
delicious preparation, take the “Limoux
Fricassée and Wine Route”, a route that
has just been laid out to allow you to get to
know this typical dish throughout Languedoc region and far beyond. A dish? Rather
two, in fact. Because the particularity of
Limoux fricassée is that it consists of a dish
of pork and another of white lingot beans.
20 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
Served at table in two separate casseroles,
the dishes are only brought together on
your plate.
Like all ancestral recipes, fricassée counts
as many variants as there are stopping
places in your gastronomic escapade. To
discover them and vary your pleasures,
stop off at the restaurants along the Route.
Le Tivoli, Doras, Le Concept, Les Arcades
and Le Grand Café all serve a fricassée in
Limoux, but you can also go to Cournanel,
to the Auberge de la Corneilla. Or continue
your road a little bit further to the south,
to Alet-les-Bains, and go through the doors
of the Evéché where they serve a fricassée
with the ‘Pays cathare’ seal of approval.
Unless your route takes you to the north
of Limoux. In this case, stop off at the Auberge du Dominicain where the fricassée is
cooked on the spot with ‘Pays cathare’ pork
and beans.
Once you are familiar with this emblematic
speciality, take a piece of Aude back home
with you, with the takeaway dishes and preserves made by the Route’s partner caterers
in Limoux, such as Jean Vaquie et fils or J.N.
Brossier, who both have the ‘Pays cathare’
seal of approval. Unless you want to make a
fricassée yourself? Here we give you a basic
recipe that you will not fail to garnish in
line with the advice and tips offered by the
restaurateurs you meet along the way. Cut
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 21
the flank or loin of pork, taken from a pig
raised in the Upper Valley, into small cubes.
Brown them in some oil. Add some diced
local raw ham, and then the onion and
liver, kidneys cut into cubes and lastly add
the persillade. Stir in a spoonful of
tomato concentrate, some salt, pepFricassée and local per and vinegar. A few slices of gherwines: an alliance kins, some thyme, bay leaf, a drop of
that can do no wrong water and some white wine. Leave
to simmer. After having soaked the
beans overnight, cook them with the
rind, then stir in a persillade. Serve
the two dishes accompanied by a wine from
one of the “Limoux Fricassée Route” estates
Pieusse, Cépie or Saint Polycarpe. Without
a doubt you are now on the road to becoming a real Audois! ■
Spotlight on the Potato
The Pays de Sault covers two plateaus situated in the Upper Aude Valley,
and they’ve been growing potatoes in this little corner of the Pyrénées for
three centuries. At the end of the nineties, some fiſteen local growers created
Adepopas, the Association for the Defence of the Pays de Sault Potato, to
establish a well-controlled production specification. Fruit of this qualitative
effort, the Pays de Sault potato obtained the ‘Pays Cathare’ label in ,
as a reward for the great deal of work required to grow this potato. Liſted,
sorted and then packed by hand, the tuber does not undergo any anti-germinative or conservation treatment. Storage is done the old-fashioned way: in
the dark in naturally ventilated traditional buildings. As for the soil, it is only
fertilised with manure obtained from local farms and does not receive any
artificial irrigation. Compliance with these growing conditions ensures the
Pays de Sault potato’s reputation for quality.
Adepopas Phone:   ()     - pays-de-sault.com
An epicurean night
Because the Limoux fricassée was born under the sign of conviviality, why not discover it at the time of a
festive event dedicated to it by the people of Limoux? Organised on the first Friday of August since , the
Nuit de la Fricassée brings together more than  guests around large tables set up around the Promenade
des Marronniers. Besides this recipe emblematic of Limoux, try its famous wines, starting with an aperitif
to go with some pébradous, a twisted pepper-flavoured biscuit, through to the dessert with some limos,
epiphany crown cakes soaked in rum and filled with confectioner’s custard and candied fruit. But it’s not just
your tastebuds that will be getting a treat. Carnival events and concerts are also on the menu!
To find out more: Service Tourisme intercommunal du Limouxin, phone:   ()    .
22 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
■ A RECIPE SOMEWHERE BETWEEN LAND
AND SEA
Presented in Les flâneries d’un passant… de Logis en Logis en terres
d’Aude, Pays Cathare, the recipe book written by the Logis de l’Aude
chefs, double-cooked squab accompanied by its risotto with cuttlefish ink and parsley-sprinkled squid, is a dish prepared by the chef
Gérald Garcia.
Ingredients (for four):
• 4 squabs (about 500 g.)
• 200 g squid (small)
• 300 g carnaroli rice
• 20 g cuttlefish ink
• 1 pinch of Citou onion
• 5 cloves of garlic
• ½ bunch parsley
• 200 g olive oil
• 200 g rockfish stock
• 5 dl clear poultry stock
• salt, pepper
• duck fat
• 1 dl pigeon juices
• 1 dl white wine
• 10 g. cornflour
• Prepare the squabs:
Separate the legs from the chest, taking care
to gut the pigeon and reserve the carcasses.
Singe the legs and coat with salt and leave in
a cool place for 1 hr. Rinse off the salt under
running water.
Meanwhile, melt the duck fat and cook the
pigeon legs gently until the flesh comes off
the bone.
Thicken with cornflour.
Leave the risotto to cool, placing it in a frame
with a regular depth, reserve in a cool place
before cutting into 4 equal rectangles.
the skin side of the confit legs.
Fry the rectangles of risotto in the frying pan
with a drop of olive oil until a light crust forms
on the surface.
• Rinse the squids and wipe dry.
• Arrange the fillets on the risotto, add the
squid, then sprinkle with parsley.
• Prepare the risotto:
Make your risotto, and once it’s cooked, correct
the seasoning and stir in the cuttlefish ink.
• To cook the squabs:
Cook the squabs in a sauté pan. Leave the
flesh to rest, and then fillet them and brown
• Prepare a persillade and reduce the rockfish
stock.
• Pour over the pigeon juices and decorate with
the reduced rockfish
stock, fried celery
THE SOMMELIER
leaves and persillade.
RECOMMENDS:
THE LOGIS DE L’AUDE CHEF
Born of restaurateur parents in Toulouse,
Gérald Garcia has worked in the greatest
restaurants, in particular with Régis Marcon
(Michelin three-star). He set up on his own
in 1998 with his wife at the Château de la
Pomarède, about ten kilometres to the
north of Castelnaudary. It is in this magnificent Cathar country medieval castle dating
back to the 11th century that he deploys all
his talent. In 2002, he was awarded his first
star in the famous Michelin guidebook.
Classic:
Domaine de Parazols,
Ni Ange Ni Démon Bagnoles
Festive:
Château Haut Gléon,
Château Haut Gléon Durban
Unusual:
Château de Serres,
Esprit- Carcassonne
Gastronomic wanderings
Discover Aude through its culinary delights, that’s what the Les flâneries d’un passant… de Logis en
Logis en terres d’Aude, Pays Cathare book promises. The recipes and wines presented on its pages are
sublimated by the illustrations of the artist Zanda and the texts written by Claude Marti. Author, poet
and singer, in love with his land, he tells us all about Aude in his inimitable way. The audio CD accompanying the book offers an audio-description version intended for the visually impaired so they can make
these delicious recipes too. An initiative that completes the sign language offer proposed on the Aude
tourism website. On sale from the Association des Logis de l’Aude :
Phone:   ()     – www.logis-aude.fr • Tourism and disability information: handicap.audetourisme.com
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 23
❚ FOLLOWING IN THE STEPS
OF THE SALT-WORKERS
La Cambuse du Saunier, in Gruissan, is above all an
adventure intimately entwined with the renaissance of
the saltworks in Île Saint-Martin. The site, where salt
production began around 100 BC, was run in its current
form in the way it was in 1911 until the beginning of the
noughties, and was then abandoned. Set up in 2008,
SAS Someval took up the torch and relaunched the
activity on the site. Some seven years later, it is more
than 18,000 tonnes of saline products (salt, fleur de
sel, industrial salts…) that are harvested along with
oysters under the ‘Ile Saint-Martin’ brand name. Born
from the determination to restore the conviviality that reigned on the site at the time when the salt works were
flourishing, the restaurant has been proposing fish and meat cooked in a salt crust since 2011, served at large
wooden tables. You can also enjoy local oysters there – au naturel or cooked (four hot oyster recipes!) – and the
cuttlefish cassoulet, an old Gruissan recipe. La Cambuse tells a whole story about salt and oysters but, since June
you can also stop off there to enjoy an ice-cream at the panoramic bar just around the corner.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 84 25 13 24 – www.lesalindegruissan.fr/fr/restaurant
❚ TASTING ON THE WAVES
❚ THE RED GOLD OF
NARBONNE BESIDE THE
MEDITERRANEAN
More than 3,000 years ago the
ancient Greeks were the first to
grow crocus sativus, the flower
from which saff ron is taken. In
2011, it was Marjorie Falguera
and Cheick Sylla who started
to produce this spice on the
Massif de l’Ile Saint-Martin in
Gruissan. From 10,000 bulbs
grown on 200 sq.m, the Safran
de Gruissan farm has just upped
its production this summer to
100,000 bulbs on 1,000 sq.m,
without any chemical products
or pesticides. Given that you
need 200 flowers to obtain 1 g
of saff ron and that the harvest,
sorting and trimming (removal
of the flower’s three stigmas)
can only be done by hand,
quality comes at a certain cost.
Count on €4.50 for 24 stigmas
(4 people) at the on-line store
www.sudcorner.com
safrandegruissan.wix.com/gruissan
In the summer, in the early
evening, you are invited to
enjoy a gastronomic cruise on
Leucate lagoon by Baptiste
Beaux, the grandson of an
oyster farmer and captain of
the Océane II. In the heart of the
oyster and mussel beds, you
will be able to savour the fine
flesh and hazelnut tang of the
Cap-Leucate oyster. It’s with
the producer Christophe Guinot,
owner of the famous oyster
cabin, Chez cul d’oursin, that
the captain has joined forces for
this gourmet escapade. During
this oyster-oriented outing, with
the “Vignobles & Découvertes”
label, you will wash down the
shellfish with white wines from
the Vignobles Cap Leucate
cooperative wine cellar.
Adult rate: €19.
www.leucate-evasionmarine.com
❚ FOLLOW THE ROUTE
DU CASSOULET
With the new smartphone
application the 180 km of
the Route du Cassoulet de
Castelnaudary will no longer
have any secrets for you!
Download it for free and
geolocalise the restaurants,
duck and bean producers,
the craſt potters, canners
and winemakers along this
agri-gastronomic route. It’s
a mine of information using
the fl ashcodes present on
the panels dotted along
this route which crisscrosses all the west of
the Cathar country. And
perhaps you will also have
the opportunity to meet
the Knights and Peers of
the Grande Confrérie du
Cassoulet de Castelnaudary
who preside over their
restaurant or canning
factory. Do not forget to
program a reminder for the
last weekend of August
(27 to 30 August), date
of the famous Fête du
Cassoulet. Meals, concerts
and events (such as games
on the Canal du Midi) are
organised in Castelnaudary
and the neighbouring
villages.
www.fete-du-cassoulet.com
www.confrerieducassoulet.com
www.castelnaudarytourisme.com
Service Tourisme
Intercommunal du Limouxin
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 31 11 82
www.limoux.fr
Office de tourisme de
Leucate Méditerranée
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 91 31
www.tourisme-leucate.fr
Office de tourisme
de Gruissan
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 09 00
gruissan-mediterranee.com
Le Grand Narbonne
Office du tourisme du Somail
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 41 55 70
tourisme-legrandnarbonne.com
Office de tourisme
intercommunal
de Castelnaudary
Lauragais Audois
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 23 05 73
www.castelnaudarytourisme.com
❚ OLIVE OIL
L’Oulibo, the Olive Oil
Cooperative based in
Bize-Minervois, is the only
one in Aude and one of the
largest oil production mills
in France. Besides tasting
and buying a profusion
of olive-based products
(oil, conserve, cosmetics,
etc.), L’Oulibo proposes
educational areas where
you can discover the whole
universe of the emblematic
tree of the Mediterranean.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 41 88 88
www.loulibo.com
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 24
PRACTICAL GUIDE
❚ TO FIND OUT MORE:
Something special
AUDE VINEYARDS
the abc
for
AAUDE
The river with the same name as the département is also the backbone of its vineyards. Originating in a spring at an altitude of 2,185 metres
in the Carlit massif, it marks in a certain way the boundary between
the Minervois and Corbières, the Massif Central and the Pyrenees
in particular. Over towards Badens and Laure-Minervois, one of the
prettiest terroirs for the Carignan variety, it wears its name – Les
Balcons de l’Aude – like a string of pearls.
for
CCORBIÈRES
This area takes its name
from the eponymous
mountain range (altitude of
between 500 and 900 m). With 10,600 hectares it is
the largest AOP in Languedoc-Roussillon. Coupled
with the climate, its alluvial terraces – with their
chalky, schistous or clayey soils – give highly Mediterranean wines made from the Syrah, Cinsault,
Grenache, Mourvèdre varieties, etc.
DDOUXfor
for
BBUBBLY
The Limoux region prides itself on having been one of the first in the world
to produce sparkling wines from its
own native grape variety, Blanquette or Mauzac. It is even said
that Dom Pérignon made the most of a visit to the Saint-Hilaire
Abbey to draw his inspiration from the local methods and export
them to Champagne. There are now several appellations that
propose Aude bubbly, the traditional Blanquette-de-Limoux
(since 1936), Crémant-de-Limoux (which includes Chardonnay
and Chenin) and Blanquette-Méthode-Ancestrale, a smooth
wine with a very low alcohol content, that goes wonderfully
with a Saint-Honoré pastry.
The Vins Doux Naturels (Natural Sweet Wines), a little-known
treasure of the Aude vineyards. These wines are made down in
the south of the département, in the nine districts of the AOP
Fitou. Rivesaltes is based on the sunny side of the Grenache and the finesse of the
Macabeu varieties. They can be drunk young, but what makes them really special
is that they can be left to age for an extremely long time. Several estates, such as
Gérard Bertrand’s, sell old vintages going back as far as the nineteen twenties. As
for the Muscat-de-Rivesaltes, it’s the ideal companion for a lemon tart. And in a
different register, do not forget the Cartagène, a Mistelle based on beautiful grape
must.
for
E
ECOLOGY
More than 27,500 hectares
have been converted to organic farming in Aude, that
is to say 12% of the total agricultural land, which puts it
in the top ten départements on the national level. With
more than 4,400 hectares and two hundred winemakers
listed, winemaking obviously occupies a choice place in
this new way of conceiving of the farmer’s relationship
with the soil.
for
F FITOU
The Fitou terroir stretches out between the sea and the Corbières: hillside landscapes, narrow valleys with schistous
and clayey-chalky soils. Fitou asserted its modernity by
becoming the first of the Languedoc wines to achieve AOC status in 1948. This
terroir produces deep red wines, famed for their powerfulness, which they owe
to the Carignan, their traditional grape variety. Their elegance is provided by the
Syrah whereas the Grenache noir and Mourvèdre contribute a velvety touch and
finesse to this wine of character.
for
E EYES
The vine is a creeper that man
must imperatively prune if it is
not to wither away. Pruning is
one of the founding skills of the vine-growers’ work;
they must in particular decide which buds to keep
depending on whether they will be fruit-bearing (or
not), these buds are called “eyes”. On vines pruned
in “gobelet” style, as is still often the case in Aude,
this work also determines the architecture of the vine
stock.
for
G GEOLOGY
Impossible to list all the many different Aude terroirs
here: limestone, schist, sandstone, marble, granite,
clay… In part born from the collapse of the Pyrenees,
Aude is even called a “geological shambles” by the experts! Much to the delight
of the winemakers who can find extremely different terroirs in just a few square
kilometres, and that’s what makes all the complexity of their wines.
for
H
HIERARCHY
Following the example of
Bordeaux and Burgundy
with the district-based
appellations (Pauillac, Margaux, Meursault, GevreyChambertin…), areas in the Aude vineyard were isolated for their specific qualities, such as the Boutenac
terroir in Corbières, or La Livinière in Minervois.
for
I IGP
With the Aude Protected Geographical
Indications (PGI) winemakers choose
freedom without neglecting quality.
They express the creativity of the winemakers, providing spicy reds, with a touch of black and red fruit,
rounded and refreshing rosés and dry whites with citrus and exotic fruit aromas… lovely surprises for the
taste buds.
for
K
KILOMETRES
You just have to cross Aude to realise just how
important vine-growing is in its landscapes (and its
economy), above all in its eastern two-thirds. Out of
the département’s total surface area of 6,139 square kilometres, more than 11% –
680 sq.km or 67,983 hectares – are occupied by vines producing wine grapes,
including more than five thousand that have Geographical Indication (IGP or AOP)
status.
for
L LIMOUX
Although we are perfectly familiar with
its sparkling wines, we are less aware of
the fact that the Limoux vineyards also
produce remarkable still wines. Whites made with Chardonnay,
Mauzac and Chenin, not to mention reds with Merlot, Côt, Syrah
and Grenache.
for
M
MINERVOIS
for
N
NARBONNAISE
Between the foothills of
the Montagne Noire and the
Canal du Midi, this wine is
grown on 3,500 hectares between Carcassonne and
the gates of Narbonne. Reds, rosés and whites, the
wines here – fashioned by the wind – have offered
flavours that make the most of this terroir’s great
climatic and geological changeableness for more
than 30 years as an AOC.
The Region with five vineyards dating back thousands of years, all as unique
as the wines produced there: Minervois, La Clape, Maritime Corbières, Fitou and the Coteaux de Narbonne, the ancient cradle
of the vine. From the chalky hills to the iridescent shores of the
lagoons with their flocks of flamingos, the Narbonnaise area
offers an unspoilt environment on the shores of the Mediterranean, with its wines of character.
for
O OENO-TOURISM
Tourism, along with wine, remains one of
France’s leading industries. Oeno-tourism with
the ‘Vignobles & Découvertes’ label (see page
31) makes it possible to establish a link between
the landscapes, the people and the content of
the bottles under the best conditions.
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 27
for
P PEBBLE
Wine, more so in Aude than anywhere
else, is the “blood of stones”. The arid,
rocky terroirs are legion, like in La
Clape for example, formerly an island off the coast of Narbonne, whose name in Occitan means “heap of stones”. The
same goes for Malepère, “bad stone” but good for making
wine…
for
Q
QUATOURZE
for
R
RICHARD
… like the actor
Pierre Richard. The
Pierre Tall Blond Man with
One Black Shoe fell in love with the Aude vineyards
a very long time ago. Based in Corbières, in Gruissan, he preceded a whole generation of newcomers,
sometimes newcomers to the world of wine-making,
French or foreign, who have chosen the département
to make their wine here.
Wine archaeology is no
easy thing, but the vineyards of Quatourze in
Narbonne are undoubtedly amongst the most ancient
wine-making sites in France. Situated at the gates to
a town that was said to be “Rome’s twin” on the coast
(today the Bages Lagoon), it consists of a terrace of
alluvium deposits washed down from the Pyrenees by
the River Aude.
for
S
SULPHITES
There has been a lot of talk over the last few years in the
wine world about SO2. Some wine-makers have in fact
decided to cut the doses of this antiseptic and preservative drastically in their juice. This so-called “natural wine” movement is widely
represented in the Aude vineyards.
for
TTERROIRS
Hard limestone, red clay, grey marl,
smooth-pebble
terraces,
schist,
sandstone… Diversity and typical features, Aude presents an array of soils in which each variety takes
root, shapes itself and develops happily.
UUVALfor
From the latin uva, relative to the grape. Because, lest
you forget, wine is nothing other than a pure fruit juice.
The opportunity for mentioning the many varieties
grown in Aude. Some are very well known such as the Grenache, Carignan,
Syrah, Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay, Muscat… Others have been more or
less forgotten, but are benefitting from a revival of popularity in the wine
world. Such as the Cinsault which produces very fine, thirst-quenching reds
and rosés.
28 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
for
WWAGON
We often talk about wine being transported along the Canal du Midi, bargees
and their pinardières barges. But it was
the arrival of the train that really gave the wines of Aude a
boost in the second half the 19th century. Well before there was
any talk here and there of bottling on the estate – a notion that
only became established in the middle of the twentieth century
– wine set off in rail-tankers to reach its customers.
WWINDfor
Aerology is one of the decisive factors when it comes to
designing a wine. Especially so
in Aude, the land of Aeolus. Winds from the North
(like the Cers), from the South or from the sea (such
as the Marin), all the work of the winemaker – whether in the vineyard or in the wine cellar – depends
on them.
for
XXYLOSE
This is one of the sugars you find in grapes, mainly in the
stalks, skin and pips. When it is present, the wine will
be particularly smooth, but the grape must have reached
maturity for it to be present. Thanks to the Mediterranean climate that is often
the case in Aude.
for
Y YOUTH
The paradox with this very old vineyard
(see Quatourze), is that it often symbolises youthfulness in the French Wine
Landscape. Aude has welcomed a number of young winemakers, most of them farming organically, who are bringing
new ways of thinking their wines, alternatives, and who are
carrying the département’s colours far and wide. Some of
them have grouped together in an association called Changer
l’Aude en Vin, very much in view in Paris.
ZZINCforBAR
With all our talk about “great
wines”, we often forget those
joyous vintages that go so well
with a quick snack or an aperitif with friends. The “counter wines” as they used to say in bygone days, drunk
cheerfully standing at the zinc-topped bar. Watch out for
them amongst the many ‘Vins de Pays’ (what we now
call IGP) produced in Aude.
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 29
❚ LES GRANDS BUFFETS : ALL THE PLEASURES
OF THE TABLE *
PRACTICAL GUIDE
Attention all Epicurians! Meet
up at the Grands Buffets in
Narbonne, a restaurant with
the Pays Cathare label. It’s in
its refined decor that you will
be able enjoy a copious meal,
just help yourself. For less than
€30 you can feast on seafoods,
foie gras, assorted raw organic
vegetables, crayfish or lobster
à l’américaine, roast meats,
etc. Spit-roast lamb, suckling
pig and chicken sizzle in the
highly theatrical rôtisserie
bursting with colours and
savours, while delicious dishes
are cooked in front of you
(tournedos with foie gras, skate
wings with capers, etc.). Then
get to grips with the platter
of more than thirty matured
cheeses. And end the meal on
a sweet note, with a choice of
fifty home-made desserts.
When the weather’s fine, make
the most of the refreshing
fountains and alcoves under
the garden-flower arbours.
But the Grands Buffets is above
all an ambassador for the
region’s best wines. No less than
70 wines proposed à la carte, all
from the Languedoc-Roussillon
terroirs. Do not hesitate to
discover them - you can buy
them by the glass. As for the
bottles that you can enjoy on
the spot or take away, they are
sold at wine-cellar prices. Lastly
make the most of the ‘Leave
without paying’ initiative: if
you buy a carton of 6 bottles of
the wine that you drank with
your meal, that bottle will quite
simply be offered for free!
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 42 20 01
www.lesgrandsbuffets.com
Something
special
WINES THAT SPEAK
Encouraged by the tourist offices, the
winemakers of Corbières, Gruissan,
Talairan and Cucugnan have got
together to propose an innovative
initiative:
Getting their bottles to speak. The
“wines that speak” – the digital
version of the vineyard rambles already proposed by these very same winemakers
all summer long – tell the story of the Aude vineyards, and of the local culture,
heritage and gastronomy. How? Thanks to the flashcode present on the label
proposing interviews of the winemakers, videos of the estates and food-wine
combinations. And the pleasure isn’t just on the label, because each winemaker
taking part has lovingly chosen a vintage amongst their very best reds. A good idea
for tasting on the spot or taking back with you in your suitcase: once you get back
home, sitting around the table in the best of company, these digital ambassadors
will tell the story of your journey in the best possible way.
● GRUISSAN
Château Le Bouïs *
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 75 25 25
www.chateaulebouis.com
Pierre Richard - Domaine de l’Evêque
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 75 00 48
www.vinspierrerichard.com
Domaine de l’île Saint-Martin
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 75 02 23
and 00 33 (0)6 83 11 81 32
La Cave de Gruissan
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 01 17
www.cavedegruissan.com
DE TALAIRAN *
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 44 02 17
● CAVEAU
● CAVEAU
DE CUCUGNAN *
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 41 61
Vintages on sale in the participating wine cellars and estates and at the Gruissan Tourist Office.
❚ A BREAK IN THE COOL *
❚ WHEN WINE HAS GOT THAT SWING *
Gérard Bertrand, a native
of the region, famous rugby
player and forerunner in the
area of wine-tourism opens
wide the doors of his estate
for you. Ten minutes from the
motorway and the beaches, in
the heart of 1,000 hectares of
vines and garrigue scrubland,
Château l’Hospitalet is a
vineyard that lies between
land and sea. This estate
with the La Clape-Côteaux
du Languedoc appellation
welcomes the passing visitor
for a tour and tasting session,
and it’s also a choice address
for an enchanting stay. With
a 38-room, 3-star hotel and
a famous restaurant, l’Art de
vivre, where the chef Laurent
Chabert prepares a seasonal
Mediterranean cuisine, the
estate has all the trump cards
in its hand. All year round,
Gérard Bertrand concocts
a programme of events:
dinner-jazz concerts every
Friday, celebration of the wine
harvest in the autumn, the
Pruning Festival and Gourmet
Christmas in December and
the renowned Jazz Festival
in August. On the programme
for this 12th edition, big
names such as UB 40, Dee
Dee Bridgewater, Chico & the
Gypsies, Julien Doré, etc. .
Gala dinner and concert: €159.
11100 Narbonne
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 28 50
www.chateau-hospitalet.com
30 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Pays
Cathar
cathare
Country 2015
And why not go down
underground to get away from
the summer heat for a moment?
In Portel-des-Corbières, Terra
Vinea welcomes you in the heart
of an immense aging cellar.
The tour starts outdoors onboard a little train – a delight
for the kids – then continues
80 metres further down in the
old gypsum quarry. And then
to bring this visit to a ‘son
et lumière’ conclusion, the
adults are invited to taste the
wines of the Rocbère Cellars.
Open all year round. The
little train leaves hourly
in the high season.
Price: €4.80 (children)
to €8.90 (adults).
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 26 14 20
www.terra-vinea.eu
And what if you made an
appointment for a breakfast of
honey, olives, fruit and wines
from the Saint-Martin estate
under the scented pine trees
of Gruissan? Before that you
will have discovered the estate
from every angle at the time of
a fascinating stroll accompanied
by your winemaker-guide. Then
you’ll know all about the Gruissan
terroir, working the vineyards
and Île Saint-Martin. And you
can end your visit with a wine-
tasting in the cellars – grape juice
included for the young ones.
Meet at the Gruissan Tourist
Office at 8.45am on Sunday
28 June and 18 October and
Thursday 16 July and 6 August.
Length: 2hrs. €14 for 15-year-olds
and over, €6 for under-15s.
For further information
and more ideas for visits to
other participating estates
in the Gruissan area:
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 09 00
❚ THE FESTIVAL TO BE
SAVOURED
For 14 years, artists and
winemakers in Minervois have
been getting together to create
a festival under the sign of
the five senses. Mixing nature,
heritage, art and wine, the
“Grands Chemins du Minervois”
proposes a varied programme
all summer long. Follow the
enthusiastic guides for a tour
of prestige sites rich with a
multi-millennial history.
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 87 68 99 07
Office de Tourisme
des Corbières Sauvages *
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 69 40
www.corbieres-sauvages.com
Pays Touristique
Corbières-Minervois *
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 27 57 57
www.tourisme-corbieresminervois.
Office de Tourisme de Gruissan *
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 09 00
gruissan-mediterranee.com
Office de Tourisme de
Leucate Méditerranée *
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 91 31
www.tourisme-leucate.fr
* All these activities have the “Vignobles et découvertes” label
VIGNOBLES & DÉCOUVERTES
Created in 2009, the ‘Vignobles & Découvertes’ national label is managed by Atout
France. It aims to promote the regions and their service-providers working in the area
of wine-tourism of the highest standard. The services concern wine-tasting cellars,
accommodation, catering, visits of sites, events and activities allowing you to discover the regions’
winemaking identity. Two centres of excellence have received the label in Aude:
La Narbonnaise Surprenante Méditerranée : http://tourisme.legrandnarbonne.com
Vin & Patrimoine en Pays Cathare, Corbières Minervois Fitou : www.tourisme-corbieres-minervois.com
Office de Tourisme
de Narbonne *
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 65 15 60
www.narbonnetourisme.com
Le Grand Narbonne
Office du Tourisme
du Somail *
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 41 55 70
tourisme.legrandnarbonne.com
❚ SUMMER IN CORBIÈRES
When the Corbières Winecellars
propose musical evenings, tasting on
the estates and visits of the farms.
Each estate has its own programme,
but always in a festive spirit, convivial
with discussions around wine and its
professions. In the Corbières AOC cellars
in May and June.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 27 73 00
www.20decorbieres.com
❚ MUSIC & HISTORY FESTIVAL
AT FONTFROIDE ABBEY
The Abbey keeps close ties with
music. A tradition that perpetuates
itself thanks to the prestige concerts
organised there - an absolute must! This
festival of ancient music from here and
further afield, proposes concerts with
the famous viola de gamba player, Jordi
Savall, the Hespèrion XXI, La Capella
Reial de Catalunya musical groups and a
host of musicians from the world over.
Narbonne from 15 to 19 July 2015
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 11 08
www.fontfroide.com
❚ CAMINS DE BOUTENAC
When the winemakers of
the Cru Boutenac take you
around their vineyards...
Rambling, tasting session, visit to
the cellars, a day that ends with a
tasting of this appellation’s wines
and a festive evening at Château de
Boutenac with a cocktail-dinner.
In the cellars of the Cru Corbières
Boutenac, 27 June 2015
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 27 73 00
www.cruboutenac.com
PRACTICAL GUIDE
❚ A VINEYARD STROLL BETWEEN SEA AND LAGOONS
❚ WHERE TO FIND
OUT MORE
❚ A DIVINE AND UNUSUAL OUTING
With the Vin’4 heures Tour, criss-cross
the vineyards on-board the most
popular of all French convertibles,
namely the Deux Chevaux! Hop onboard for drives leaving from La Palme,
Sallèles d’Aude, Le Somail and Leucate,
if you want to find out all about vines,
meet the people who grow them and
taste the local produce along the way.
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 82 22 17 72
www.vin4heurestour.fr
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 31
A boundless
PLAYGROUND
Water, air, earth. In Aude, nature
and the elements know how to
show their generosity. From the
Pyrenees to the Mediterranean,
from Corbières to the Montagne
Noire, a gigantic playground
that stretches out to the horizon.
To be discovered on foot, by bike,
paraglider or kayak. Thrills and
spills included.
A
SPORTS… IN THE WIND
ude is a windy land. Although
we may sometimes complain
about it in the winter when
the Tramontane stings your face, lovers of
board- and wind-sports, from paragliding
to kitesurfing, love it. All along the coast,
from Saint-Pierre to La-Franqui, taking in
the Bages lagoon, the blast of Aeolus is a
veritable godsend, a pull factor at the heart
of a dynamic economy. People come here at
all times of year for the kitesurfing, windsurfing or sand yachting in the gusts of
wind that sometimes send the sand flying.
In Leucate, any windsurfer or kitesurfer
32 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
will tell you: this is the ideal place for breaking speed records. This year, the town
once again welcomed the ‘Mondial du
vent’ event. It was held last April with, as
usual, the stars of the different disciplines.
Further north, at the time of the Défiwind
challenge, every month of May Gruissan
brings together more than 1,000 windsurf
amateurs and professionals on the same
starting line. An event that is as unique as
it is spectacular.
In these two resorts, for lovers of strong sensations, there is now skyflying on offer. This
is a fun sport that anyone who wants fly in
Let’s gain altitude
For stronger sensations, let’s head for
Lézignan aerodrome. Planes take off from
the capital of Corbières offering first flights,
flights over the medieval castles of the
Cathar Country and, above all, parachuting. The biggest wind-tunnel in Europe –
Flyzone – has even been set up to simulate
an interminable free fall flight without even
leaving terra firma. Well worth a try before
actually taking off.
www.flyzone.fr
the sky is sure to appreciate. With the help
of a sail and a kite the wind will send you up
twelve metres or so above the waves!
REACH FOR THE SKY
Inland, you can also gain altitude, but in
this case to admire the département’s scenery. In the Corbières, three paraglider
launch spots allow you to take off whatever
the wind’s direction, whether it’s blowing
in from the sea or from Spain. From the
summit of Mont Tauch above Tuchan or
from Duilhac and Cucugnan, just a few
steps away from the impressive fortresses of
Peyrepertuse and Quéribus, the spectacle is
grandiose: the great expanse of blue on one
side, the Pyrenean peaks on the other and,
in the middle, castles perched in the heart
of the garrigue scrubland, surrounded by
vineyard plots.
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 33
IN CROSS-COUNTRY MODE
T
he geography books say so : Aude
offers a rare condensate of the
landscapes and natural scenery
that can be seen everywhere in France.
Hills, plains, mountains, high-altitude
plateaux, sandy beaches or rocky coasts…
here, the decor and atmosphere change
every few kilometres.
Walking and cycling, whether by road or
cross-country, remain the two best ways
of appreciating this diversity. Unless you
choose to gallop off on a horse. As for hiking, you’ve got the choice: on a GR hiking
trail or on the steep paths, using your own
muscle power or with the help of a donkey.
On the coast, for example you could take a
family walk between La-Franqui and Leucate, along a path that climbs right up to the
top of the cliff and then invites you to go for
a swim in a creek. Further along, towards
Roquefort-des-Corbières, take a six-hour
hike to discover the region’s agro-pastoral
heritage with capitelles (shepherds’ stone
shelters) and old wells.
In the Corbières and Minervois areas, eighty
loops have been laid out, setting out from
the villages. Themed loops that will carry
you off to the geological universe of Albas,
the wild flora and fauna at Saint-Laurentde-la-Cabrerisse or to do the postman’s
rounds in Talairan.
A guide for Corbières
Between vineyards and Cathar country
castles, the Pays Corbières Minervois à
pied topo-guide proposes  hikes and
walks rich with encounters, discoveries
and varied landscapes.
www.tourisme-corbieres-minervois.com/
randonnees-a-pied.html
®
Promenade & Randonnée
PR
Le Pays
Corbières Minervois
… à pied
®
Vin et Patrimoine en Pays Cathare
30 Promenades & Randonnées
ÉGALEMENT
DANS
CE GUIDE :
PRÉSENTATION
DE
deux
Tours
de Pays
For anyone who’s dreaming of a longer trip,
the Cathar Trail (or GR 367, accredited since
2014) runs from Port-la-Nouvelle to Espezel.
You can take it on foot, horseback or by
mountainbike and admire the most beautiful
sites that witnessed the Crusade against the
Albigeois. Both sporting and of historical interest, the GR 36 trail – which links the English
Channel to the Mediterranean – crosses the
département from north to south, from the
Pic de Nore to Fenouillèdes passing through
Corbières. And then in the Upper Aude Valley,
the hike becomes an adventure. Here you’re in
the Pyrénées, in the land of sheer gorges and
needle-sharp mountain peaks. You can reach
altitudes of nearly 2,000 metres in the Pays
de Sault and on the Pic d’Ourtiset. You can go
even higher if you climb the final slopes of the
Madrès (2,469 m), a granitic summit facing
the central chain of the Pyrénées. ■
www.lesentiercathare.com et http://rando-pyreneesaudoises.
jimdo.com
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 35
LET’S ALL JUMP IN
H
urtling down the slopes of the
Pyrenees, the Aude is just a tumultuous torrent to begin with, a
capricious whitewater river. Then it turns into
a wide river flowing unhurriedly down to the
Mediterranean, and as it passes it bathes the
towns of Quillan, Limoux, the City of Carcassonne… A veritable backbone, it offers around
twenty kilometres of sporting trails and 200
kilometres of leisure river activities.
From the Pyrenees down to the sea, the river
is the scene of a multitude of water activities,
36 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
whether sporting or more leisure-oriented.
Upstream, around Axat, it’s the kingdom of
whitewater sports, with rafting, hydrospeed
and kayak. Thanks to the two dams of Puyvalador and the Matemale and the water releases
authorised by EDF, the Aude is LanguedocRoussillon region’s only regulated waterway.
In other words, it is the only river that makes
it possible to practice aquatic activities all
summer long, even in times of drought. Furthermore, the Upper Valley has hosted two
editions of France’s kayaking championships.
The big leap
A wetsuit, a helmet, a guide and you’re on your
way. There are several sites in Corbières where
you can find out all about canyoning. The most
accessible is in the Galamus gorge, it’s ideal for
absolute beginners who will at the same time be
able to admire the hermitage clinging to the rock.
Two steps away from Termes castle, the Clue du
Terminet is a more challenging canyon but great
fun still. But, take care, there is all the same a
-metre drop, obviously not recommended for
anyone who suffers from vertigo.
Here we take on the waves in breathtaking
scenery, such as in the Saint-Georges gorge
or the vertiginous Pierre-Lys gorge where
the 300-metre high cliffs stretch out over
8 kilometres. As far as Alet-les-Bains, the
river is therefore more especially reserved
for sports enthusiasts, with class 4 stretches
(on a scale of 6). And then, towards Limoux,
the flow slows just as the relief smoothes
out. Fear not, grab your oars, and you’ll be
able to continue the adventure over nearly
200 kilometres, with a kayak or even a
stand-up paddle. ■
❚ ON YOUR BIKE, FROM THE CANAL DU MIDI TO CORBIÈRES
PRACTICAL GUIDE
» visit with the family
❚ GO-KARTING IN CAMURAC
No engine, no petrol, so no smell and no noise, go-karting has
become an ecological activity in Camurac! In the lower resort,
reserved for skiers in the winter, there is a piste that you can
access by ski liſt where a ‘dévalkart’ track has been laid out, and
there’s also an arapho (a sort of cross-country scooter) and the
dirtmonster, a monster bike fitted with quad wheels allowing you
to sweep impressively down the slope. As for the toddlers, for
three-year-olds and over, a special circuit awaits them. With their
electric go-karts, they’ll be able to experience their first bursts of
speed, accelerating from 0 to 6 kph in just a few seconds.
www.soularac-sport.com
If you want to stay on the Canal
du Midi or the Canal de la Robine
you can of course embark on
a barge and gently driſt along
with the current. But from the
Lauragais area down to the
Mediterranean, there’s a cycle
track running alongside, oſten
in the shade thanks to its plane
trees. Nearly flat, the routes pass
through countless villages, going
past tens of locks, stopping off
in harbours full of charm such
as the one in Trèbes or in Le
Ségala where you can sip at a
well-deserved refreshment.
Saddlebags hanging from
the rack, hands on the
handlebars, you can also visit
the département by road bike.
Endowed with a large secondary
road network, Aude is ideal for
cycle touring. Between Corbières
and Minervois, the hoteliers, wine
estates and local produce stores
have got together to offer cyclists
the best welcome: copious
breakfasts starting early in the
morning, tasting sessions, etc. In
this sector, there are more than
1,080 km of cycling routes, with
short but intense climbs. As for
sportsmen looking for something
a bit tougher, they can gauge
their performance on the roads
of the Tour de France, around the
Col du Portel or the Col de Jau.
www.tourisme-corbieresminervois.com/cyclotourisme.html
www.pyreneesaudoises.com
❚ WANDER PEACEFULLY AROUND THE LAURAGAIS AREA
Bordered to the north by the Montagne Noire and to the
south by the Piège hills, this land of plenty is perfect for
hiking. A gentle hike, without any great difficulties but with
a multitude of interesting and unusual things to see. In the
heart of this area which stretches from Lake Saint-Ferréol to
Fanjeaux, first there is the Canal du Midi, a veritable lifeline
dotted with fortified villages, castles and mills. And then,
of course, there’s the local culinary star – cassoulet – never
better than in Castelnaudary, its birthplace. Something to
be savoured… but you’d better wait until aſter your hike!
A topo-guide has just recently been published for the Lauragais
region, this is an essential instrument for visiting without
missing any of the sites of special interest dotted all along
the route. The family hiking trails also make forays into the
départements of Tarn and Haute-Garonne. On sale in bookshops
and on the Fédération française de randonnée’s website.
www.lauragais-tourisme.fr
38 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
❚ PIC DE L’OURTISET
❚ CHOOSE YOUR LAKE
The Pays de Sault stretches
out at the summit of the
Ourtiset (1,934m) as you leave
a mountain track running
between fir forests, mountain
pastures and dwarf pines, with
a view of the Ariège and Catalan
Pyrenees, the Corbières massif
and the Montagne Noire. The
6.5 km circuit (+450m altitude
diff erence) begins at the Col des
Tourrugues, that you can access
via the path from Rodome,
and takes the discrete hiker
along to see the herds and
wild animals. You can stop off
in a gîte or B&B in one of the
villages on the little plateau
or in the Rebenty Valley.
You will find all the routes at
www.pyreneesaudoises.com
Forty minutes away from
Toulouse, the 500 hectares of
Lake Ganguise off er continuous,
strong winds that are a joy for
sportsmen: sailing and paddleboarding, not to mention hiking
and mountainbike excursions
along the banks of the lake, in
particularly rustic scenery.
www.ganguise.com
Not far from Carcassonne,
Lake Cavayère is the ideal spot
for cooling off in the summer
heat. Just two steps away
from the medieval city, the lake
extends over 40 hectares, and
you can swim there in perfect
safety. All round, nature is
everywhere and the path
through the valleys covered
with a Mediterranean vegetation
is well worth the detour.
❚ TO FIND OUT MORE
❚ A MOUNTAINBIKE
ADVENTURE
Several thousand kilometres of
paths. All round the département
there are no less than six sites
with the Fédération française
de cyclisme’s VTT mountainbike
label, each with circuits that
are more or less long, more or
less irregular, accessible to
beginners and to experienced
mountain-bikers alike. With
870 kilometres of signposted
circuits, the Upper Valley offers
one of the largest domains in the
Pyrenees and a great variety of
terrains, from the high-mountain
tracks above Axat, to the hillside
paths in the Razès area.
In Corbières-Minervois, the base
proposes 240 km of routes going
from the easiest (in green) to
the most vertiginous (black).
And to combine the effort with a
moment’s comfort, each circuit
sets out from a cooperative
wine cellar. Elsewhere in the
département there are four
other sites with the Fédération
française de cyclisme’s VTT
mountainbike label. Going
from west to east, there is first
of all Les Vallons de l’Autan,
between Piège, Lauragais and
Malepère (six circuits going
from 12 to 59 km long); then
come the Cabardès en Pays
Cathare site (457 km of trails),
the Canal du Midi space with
circuits leaving from Somail,
Argeliers and Paraza, and lastly,
close by the sea and Gruissan,
the picturesque La Clape site
where you can pedal along
between limestone rocks, pine
woods, beaches and lagoons.
www.audetourisme.com
Even a few tens of metres
under the ground, the Aude
scenery is well worth a visit.
In the département, you can
discover the world of potholing
in Corbières, the Upper Valley
and, above all in the Montagne
Noire and the Haut-Minervois.
It is perhaps in these two
areas, close to Limousis and
the Cabrespine Chasm – an
absolute must! – that you
will find the most interesting
caves. At Cabrespine the
potholing adventure is within
everyone’s grasp thanks to the
“safari”, a guided discovery
circuit along a specially laid
out route that does not require
any technical or sporting skills.
There’s a subterranean
expedition atmosphere in
Aguzou too, a cave in its
natural state with a wealth
of fascinating minerals.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 67 66 11 11
www.gouffre-decabrespine.com
Pays touristique
Corbières-Minervois
24, Bd. Marx-Dormoy,
11200 Lézignan-Corbières
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 27 88 10
www.tourisme-corbieresminervois.com
Service tourisme
des Pyrénées audoises
Square André-Tricoire,
11500 Quillan
Phone: 0033 (0)4 68 20 07 78
www.pyreneesaudoises.com
Pays Haute-Vallée de l’Aude
Place d’Alcántara
11300 Limoux
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 58 38
www.payshva.org
Oti Haut Minervois de
Carcassonne Agglo
PRACTICAL GUIDE
❚ UNDERGROUND JOURNEYS
3, ruelle du Monestier
11160 Caunes-Minervois
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 76 34 74
www.tourisme-haut-minervois.fr
❚ CLIMBING IN HAUT
MINERVOIS
A SELECTION OF SPORTING ADDRESSES
Haut Minervois is a little paradise
for climbers and the Notre-Damedu-Cros site is a veritable Mecca
for climbers. Close to the village
of Caunes-Minervois – the local
capital of marble – an ancient
canyon proposes around one
hundred diff erent routes going
from the very easy to climbs
classified 8 on a scale of 9.
There are other lovely sites in
the Massif de la Clape, just as
there are in the Upper Aude
Valley, towards the Col du Portel,
Belvianes or even in SaintSalvayre (Alet-les-Bains), and
Cardou (Rennes-les-Bains), etc.
● Roc Aqua, whitewater and
mountain sports, Cailla
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 53 97
www.rocaqua.com
● Alet eau vive, Alet-les-Bains
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 69 92 67
www.aleteauvive.fr
● Embarquement immédiat,
Saint-Martin-Lys
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 87 37 24 74
www.embarquementimmediat.net
● La Forge de Quillan
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 23 79
www.laforgedequillan.fr
● Pyrène Raſting, Axat
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 52 76
pyreneraſting.com
● Rodeo Raſt , Belvianes
et Cavirac
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 98 86
www.rodeoraſt.com
● Sud Raſting, Axat
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 53 73
www.sudraſting.fr
● Eaurizon, Axat et Puichéric
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 99 82
www.eaurizon.eu
Parapentebiplace (twoseater paraglider), Tuchan
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 34 44 74 00
www.parapentebiplace.fr
MOTORBIKE NATURE TOUR STAYS
You’re going on holiday on your motorbike? In a group, just
the two of you or on your own, the roads in Aude, the Cathar
country will reserve a truly made-to-measure ‘bikers’ welcome
for you. Garage or bike shelter with a hard, fl at floor, water
supply so you can wash your steed, a small ‘mechanical’ area, a
room to hang up your protective gear, jackets, etc. Tourist routes for
biking tours or outings, list of nearby specialist garages, and of petrol pumps
with / payment. Starting from . Choose your evening stopping place in
a B&B, with or without meals on:
www.gites-de-france-aude.com/chambres-hoteset-circuits-a-moto.html
Paraglider flights leaving
from Peyrepertuse
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 76 75 18 91
Mountainbike, SaintAndré-de-Roquelongue
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 81 45 63 09
Chutextrem, LézignanCorbières
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 99 82
www.chutextrem.com
● All these professionals
have obtained the “Pays
Cathare” label (see page 47)
On horseback:
L’Étrier du Lauragais,
Castelnaudary
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 23 28 47
Ferme équestre Cheval
cathare, Cucugnan (GR 367)
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 84 33 74 37
Chevaux aux vents,
Davejan (GR 36)
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 10 93 18 50
Les fils de Natchez, Termes (GR 36)
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 70 05 92
On foot:
www.lesentiercathare.com/
fr/preparer-randonnee/
accompagnateurs-enmontagne.php
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 39
LAND OF ARTS
and TRADITIONS
A
Thierry Auneau
Creativity, and a taste for jubilation: here the
truly living traditions give off a contagious
energy. Know-how and traditions perpetuate
themselves, and are celebrated with the
passing generations and seasons, adapting
to new times without losing any of their
authenticity and savour.
40 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
W
ith its landscapes of millennial vineyards and olive groves, bathed in
the changing light of the south, the
Narbonne Mediterranean could only serve as
a magnet for artists. Some of them have made
their homes here in places with a long memory,
linking the past to the present. That’s the case
for Sigean, where art has breathed new life into
the winemakers’ heritage with the installation,
in a 2,000 sq.m former wine cellar, of the Lieu
d’Art Contemporain (LAC – Contemporary Art
Place) where you can appreciate retrospectives
of international artists. As for the actress Sabine
Saintgeorges, she fell in love with the fishing
village of Peyriac-de-Mer; she has set up her art
Sabine Saintgeorges
Alain Biel
gallery– Toile de Mer –in a “little house with
blue shutters” where she exhibits her creations
(textiles, paintings) and those of other people
working in the plastic arts.
A town of vines and waves, Gruissan has also
conquered the hearts of craftsmen such as Alain
Biel. His oils painted with a palette knife and his
pewterware sculptures largely draw their inspiration from the wild garrigues scrublands of his
childhood, picturesque beach chalets built on
piles, “catalanes” (fishing boats) moored on the
saltflats and Gruissan’s ever-lively fishermen’s
traditions that are celebrated in great pomp
each year at the famous Saint-Pierre Festival.
Celebrating traditions is a duty for the memory
that villages such as Cucugnan, in the Corbières Minervois area, also take very seriously. It is one of the rare villages in France to
have put its ancient flourmill back into operation. In May it will be one of the stars of the
Journées Européennes des Moulins (European Mills Days), with demonstrations of the
miller’s work, tastings of breads and pastries
made on the spot, and other activities. In
July, Cucugnan will also change itself into a
theatre to welcome the Fête du Conte, where
you’ll be able to listen to colourful tales and
local legends such as the foundation by the
Romans of the village of Thézan-des-Corbières where, at the time of the Journées
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 41
Faucilles ou Vertes (Sickle or Green Days) in
July, the village relives the traditional handharvesting of lavender in a friendly spirit,
with meals shared in the fields.
Talking of a popular festive spirit, it’s difficult to outdo Limoux with its age-old
Carnival which lasts… three months! Every
weekend and on Shrove Tuesday, hundreds of carnival-goers invade the streets
of Limoux to music.
The event culmiIt’s difficult to outdo
nates with the
Limoux with its agejudgement of His
old Carnival
Majesty Carnival,
on the last Sunday
of March, which is also the Nuit de la Blanquette de Limoux, the sparkling wine that
is inseparable from the local cultural identity. The Chardonnays (other Limoux AOC
wines) take the place of honour at the time
of the famous Fête des Toques et Clochers
(Chefs’ Hats and Steeples) festival. The
high point of this event, thought up by the
Vignerons du Sieur d’Arques wine cellars,
is the auctioning of casks of wine. Part of
the profits made from this sale is used to
restore a steeple in the appellation area,
a patronage that has enabled the Upper
Aude Valley to protect its religious architectural heritage.
Saint-Pierre Festival in Gruissan
Every year at the end of June, Gruissan decks itself out in the
colours of the sea in honour of Saint Peter. There’s a legend
that says that in the th century some Gruissan sailors found
a figurehead bearing the effigy of the Saint in what was leſt of
a shipwreck… Since then, a procession has been organised to
pay tribute to him, with the Gruissan fishermen’s Prud’hommie, an institution whose origins date back to the Middle Ages.
Marching to the rhythm of the village band, the Prud’Hommes
escort the bust of Saint Peter clothed in ceremonial dress and
carried by the fishermen of Gruissan, who are in turn followed
by their wives, families and friends, along with all the bystanders who have come to watch the event. The procession ends
with High Mass in Gruissan church, a tribute to everyone lost
at sea and a great popular festival.
42 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
The Incarnat Quarries in Caunes-Minervois
With its intense cherry-red colour, the marble from Caunes-Minervois has been
used to decorate prestige buildings such as the Versailles Trianon, the Opéra
Garnier in Paris, Caunes-Minervois Abbey, not to mention the Arc de Triomphe.
Hiking paths have been specially laid out to allow you to explore this highly
unusual ‘marble’ heritage, but you can also visit the quarry in the company of
guides from the Marbrières de Caunes association which organises the Fête
de la Sculpture et du Marbre every year around Caunes-Minervois Abbey. The
Caunes-Minervois Tourist Office lays on guided tours around the heart of the
village, a veritable open air “pink marble museum” where twenty gigantic
works bequeathed by artists in residence in Caunes are on show.
The village of Caunes-Minervois, in the Carcassonne area, also has an extraordinary stone
heritage: the Incarnat red marble quarries.
Already exploited at the time of the Romans,
these quarries are still functioning partially,
and share their activity between orders for the
building trade, housing artists’ residencies in
Terralbe (where the blocks of marble are quarried) and tourist visits to raise awareness of
this historical know-how.
In Montolieu, Aude also gives pride of place
to its know-how: the Belgian bookbinder Michel Braibant has transformed this charming
medieval village into a temple of the arts and
book-related professions. Fifteen bookshopssecondhand booksellers, book craft workshops and fourteen artists today contribute to
running courses on book manufacturing techniques, calligraphy, bookbinding and illumination all year round. These courses are held
in the Arts et Métiers du Livre Museum in Montolieu. This museum goes back over the history
of books, from the birth of writing through
to the development of printing, and plays an
active role in promoting literature by hosting
events such as the Salon du Livre (Book Fair)
or the Rencontres avec les Artisans du Livre (Meetings with
Book Craftspeople). The Maison Montolieu has
become a temple of
des Banquets in Lagrasse backs
the arts and bookthis up with its three annual
related professions
Banquets du Livre (Book Banquets) bringing together prestige
speakers at Lagrasse Abbey to discuss current
topics with the public, and the Maison des
Mémoires in Carcassonne where the surrealist
poet Joë Bousquet (1897-1950) lived and welcomed the French intellectual and artistic elite of
the first half of the 20th century.■
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 43
❚ WHERE TO FIND
OUT MORE?
Office de tourisme
de Carcassonne
28, rue de Verdun
PRACTICAL GUIDE
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 10 24 30
www.tourisme-carcassonne.fr
Office de tourisme
de Gruissan
1, bd du Pech-Maynaud
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 09 00
www.gruissan-mediterranee.com
Office de tourisme
de Lagrasse
16, rue Paul-Vergnes
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 43 11 56
www.lagrasse.com
Service tourisme
du Limouxin
avenue du Pont-de-France
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 31 11 82
www.limoux.fr
Office de tourisme
du Haut Minervois,
3, ruelle du Monestier
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 76 34 74
www.tourisme-haut-minervois.fr
Office de tourisme du
Cabardès au canal du Midi,
1, place Jean-Guehenno
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 80 80
www.tourisme-cabardes.fr
❚ SENTIERS D’ART
ET DE POÉSIE
Over 5 km, the Sentier
Sculpturel de Mayronnes
off ers an intriguing “land-art”
walk that creates harmony
between the wild landscapes
of Hautes-Corbières and
some twenty pieces of
contemporary plastic art. This
year, the Hérésies association
(on whose initiative the
path was created) gives
nine artists carte blanche to
intervene on the spot from
April to September. The
village of Villar-en-Val also
pays tribute to the local poet
Joseph Delteil (1894-1978)
with its “Sentier en Poésie”, a
6 km path through the woods,
punctuated by signs on which
lines – as suggestive as “ici,
le temps va à pied” (here,
time goes on foot) – written
by the poet are printed. In
particular, the path passes
through Borie de Guillamau,
where Joseph Delteil spent
the first four years of his life.
Association Hérésies
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 43 12 37
www.sentiersculpturel.com
Le Grand Narbonne
Office de tourisme - Le Somail
» visit with the family
❚ THE ‘PATAPAPIER DE BROUSSE’ WEEKENDS
The last paper mill in Languedoc, situated in Brousse et Villaret, proposes educational weekends for children accompanied by their parents,
all year round. On the programme, workshops on making plant-based
paper, traditional printing and calligraphy; visit of Montolieu (in particular the art glassworks housed in the old Manufacture Royale,
bookshops, the contemporary artistic and literary creation centre, La
Coopérative) and escapades into the Montagne Noire and around the
Bassin de Saint-Denis. Starting from /person.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 26 67 43 – www.moulinapapier.com
❚ LA MAISON
DU BANQUET
ET DES GÉNÉRATIONS
Abbey open to the public
4, rive gauche, Lagrasse
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 32 63 89
www.lamaisondubanquet.fr
11120 Saint-Nazaire d’Aude
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 41 55 70
tourisme.legrandnarbonne.com
❚ MUSÉE DES MÉTIERS
DU LIVRE
❚ L’ASPIRATEUR
DE NARBONNE
Exhibition devoted to the
centenary of Edmont Charlot,
Albert Camus’ first publisher,
until 19th July.
39, rue de la Mairie,
Montolieu
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 80 04
www.montolieu-livre.fr
An exhibition area for
contemporary creations that
welcomes artists in residence.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 90 50 91
www.mairie-narbonne.
fr/laspirateur
ARTS & CRAFTS
STAYS
Cité de Carcassonne,
Romanesque abbeys,
mediaeval castles and
villages, these remains of
the Cathar saga evoke a tormented,
passionate history. Wrought-iron
craſtsmen, sculptors and potters draw
their inspiration and energy for beauty
from this universe, so that the object
they create is something unique, the
perfect reflection of their soul, of their
passion. This stay consists of  days of
car-touring to get out and meet them.
Starting from  per person in
two-épis country gîte
To find out more: www.sudfrance.fr/
villages-de-caractere-et-artisanatd-art-PA_SROUTE.html
❚ GALERIE PIC’SEL
IN GRUISSAN
During the summer season, the
Pic’Sel collective of naturalist
photographers exhibits its
works and those of a guest
painter or photographer.
Open from 1st April to 31st
October, from 10.30am to
8pm every day, including
weekends. Free admission.
Route de l’Ayrolle
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 82 53 10 61
www.lesalindegruissan.fr
44 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
❚ CENTRE JOË-BOUSQUET
ET SON TEMPS
Maison des Mémoires –
Maison Joë-Bousquet
Open from Tuesday to
Saturday, admission free.
53, rue de Verdun,
Carcassonne
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 72 50 83
See a selection of Arts & Craſt s
addresses on page 47.
ALL YOU NEED TO PREPARE
your trip!
WHERE TO FIND OUT MORE
CORBIÈRES-MINERVOIS
LAURAGAIS AREA
Pays Touristique
Corbières-Minervois
Syndicat Mixte
du Pays Lauragais
24, bd Marx-Dormoy
11200 Lézignan-Corbières
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 27 57 57
www.tourisme-corbieresminervois.com
CARCASSONNE AREA
3, chemin de l’Obélisque
11320 Montferrand
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 60 56 54
www.lauragais-tourisme.fr
NARBONNE AREA,
ASTONISHING
MEDITERRANEAN
Communauté
d’Agglomération
du Carcassonnais
UPPER VALLEY
Syndicat Mixte
de la Vallée de l’Aude
et des Pyrénées Audoises
Le Grand Narbonne
1, rue Pierre-Germain
11000 Carcassonne
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 10 56 05
www.carcassonne-agglo.fr
www.payscarcassonnais.com
12, bd Frédéric-Mistral
11100 Narbonne
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 58 14 58
www.legrandnarbonne.com
Place Alcantara
11300 Limoux
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 58 38
www.payshva.org
HOW TO GET HERE
EN VOITURE
‣ A61 Deux-Mers
Motorway: exits at
Castelnaudary
(exit 21), Bram (exit 22),
Carcassonne Ouest (exit 23),
Carcassonne Est (exit 24)
Lézignan-Corbières (exit 25),
Narbonne Sud (exit 38).
‣ A9 “La Languedocienne”
Motorway: Exits at
Narbonne Est (exit 37),
Narbonne Sud (exit 38),
Sigean-Port la Nouvelle
(exit 39), Fitou –
Leucate (exit 40).
‣ D6113 secondary road:
Toulouse – Carcassonne –
Narbonne
D6009 secondary road:
Béziers – Narbonne – Perpignan
D613 secondary road:
Andorre – Ax-les-Thermes –
Belcaire – Quillan
Secondary road 118:
Mazamet – Carcassonne
BY TRAIN
‣ Main Railway Stations
‣ Castelnaudary
‣ Carcassonne
‣ Lézignan-Corbières
‣ Narbonne
‣ TGV Méditerranée
high-speed train
‣ to Paris and Lille Europe
‣ from Paris and Lille Europe
‣ AVE high-speed train
Barcelone – Perpignan
– Narbonne – Carcassonne –
Toulouse
logitravel.com
‣ Main Lines
‣ Bordeaux
‣ Toulouse
‣ Marseille
‣ Nice
‣ TER Regional Express Trains
‣ TER Toulouse – Montpellier
‣ TER Carcassonne – Limoux
– Quillan (by train or coach):
11 departures a day.
Information and booking:
36 35
Timetables: 0892 335 335
www.voyages-sncf.fr
BY AIR
‣ International Sud de
France –Carcassonne Airport
‣ Carcassonne – London
Stansted line (England):
11 flights a week
‣ Carcassonne – Nottingham
East Midlands line (England):
5 flights a week
‣ Carcassonne – Liverpool line
(England): 5 flights a week
2 flights a week
‣ Carcassonne – Glasgow line
(Scotland): 2 flights a week
‣ Carcassonne – Brussels
Charleroi line (Belgium):
8 flights a week
‣ Carcassonne – Eindhoven line
(Netherlands): 2 flights a week
‣ Carcassonne – Dublin line
(Ireland): 5 flights a week
‣ Carcassonne – Cork line
(Ireland): 3 flights a week
‣ Carcassonne – Porto line
(Portugal): 2 flights a week
‣ Carcassonne - Alicante
(Spain): 1 flight a week
Contacts :
Airport
Route de Montréal
11090 Carcassonne
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 71 96 46
www.aeroportcarcassonne.com
Ryanair
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 71 96 65
www.ryanair.com
‣ Toulouse-Blagnac Airport
(90 km from Carcassonne)
‣ 15 destinations in France,
Italy, 1 flight from Belgium,
1 flight from the Netherlands.
‣ More than 40 seasonal
charter flights all round Europe,
plus Russia and Canada
(Air Transat).
Contact :
BP 103
31703 Blagnac cedex
Phone: 0825 380 000
(call from France)
Phone: 00 33 (0)1 70 46 74 74
(call from outside France)
www.toulouse.aeroport.fr
‣ Montpellier
Méditerranée Airport
(94 km from Narbonne)
‣ 4 flights inside France
– 2 flights from Great Britain
– 1 flight from Germany
– 1 flight from Belgium
– 1 flight from the
Netherlands.
‣ Seasonal flights to France,
Great Britain and Denmark.
Contact :
CS 10001
34137 Mauguio Cedex
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 67 20 85 00
www.montpellier.aeroport.fr
6 flights from Great Britain,
4 flights from Germany, 4 flights
from Spain, 3 flights from
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 45
DISCOVERY GUIDE
What could be better than a good meal aer a tour around the local heritage sites or a meeting with a
crasman? The best addresses, charming stopovers, exceptional sites – here we give you a selection to
help you prepare your itineraries and mix your pleasures as the fancy takes you…
❚ RENNES-LES-BAINS, UNIQUE SPAS IN THE HEART
OF CORBIÈRES
The only spa resort in the
département of Aude, with
the river Sals’ bucolic valley
and the charming stone
village of Rennes-les-Bains
for background, these thermal
spas in Rennes-les-Bains
are truly unique. Discover
the perfect surroundings for
recharging your batteries with
no less than eleven hot water
springs gushing from the bed
of the Sals. One of them, the
Bains Forts spring, feeds the
Spa Establishment with water
that rises up naturally at
47.5°C. The Romans, who had
noted the therapeutic virtues
of the waters at Rennes-lesBains as early as the first
century BC, founded a first spa
complex whose lower floor can
still be seen in the foundations
of the spa’s present-day pool.
Today, the Spa Establishment
combines the useful with
the agreeable in an elegant
Belle Époque building that
houses completely renovated
and functional installations,
famed for their treatment
of rheumatic and bone-joint
pathologies. Depending on
the disorders, the treatments
proposed by the spas combine
the naturally sedative effects
of the thermal water with
the decongesting virtues of
the massages performed
by qualified personnel
(physiotherapists), aerobaths,
high-pressure and underwater
jets, steam rooms and the
application of poultices made
with a mixture of clay and
thermal water. The result?
Reduced muscle pain and
inflammations, and improved
joint movements. The spas
also offer a range of face, hand
and foot beauty treatments,
as well as hot- or warm-wax
depilations. The people taking
the waters who stay in the
‘Résidence hôtelière de la
Reine’ will also be able to
make the most of the Fitness
Area, with its hammam and
Jacuzzi, not to mention its
vast outdoor heated pool fed
with thermal waters. For those
who simply want to try out the
installations and the range
of treatments on offer, the
Spa proposes one- to five-day
Health-Wellbeing discovery
packages (with five treatments
a day to be chosen between
the physiotherapy sessions
in the pool, massages, mud
poultices, bubble baths, jet
showers or the local steam
rooms) and the Open Days
(booking required) with access
to three spa treatments
and the outdoor pool.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 74 71 00
www.renneslesbains.com
❚ DOMAINE DE L’ESPINET
A three-star tourist residence,
this estate without the
slightest doubt deserves every
superlative. Nestling in lush green
surroundings, this 120-hectare
former wine estate proposes
rooms, studios and villas with
private terraces and gardens,
with unobstructed views of the
Pyrenees. Unspoilt surroundings
to be explored as the fancy takes
you, themed weekends, short
stays or summer holidays, or
at the time of leisurely group
visit or of a company seminar.
L’Espinet is also a gourmet
destination. ‘Au Brantalou’,
a restaurant with the ‘Pays
Cathare’ label, the master
restaurateur Albert Battle
proposes cooking with a
Mediterranean inspiration
and local produce with a
refined presentation.
As for its activities, the estate
proposes a range of facilities
with a Wellbeing Centre, ideal
for a moment’s relaxation, and
several swimming spots – two
pools, and a lake too! Also on
the programme, more athletic
activities such as quad rides,
a game of tennis or pétanque,
not to mention a treetop trail.
Situated in the heart of the Upper
Valley, l’Espinet is also the ideal
starting point for sporting and
cultural outings. What with a
visit to the village of Rennesle-Château or a hike up to the
Pic de Bugarach, a ramble along
the GR 7 trail or the Sentier
Cathare (recently designated the
GR 367), or water sports in the
turbulent waters of the nearby
canyons, your only predicament…
making your choice!
Open all year round.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 88 88
www.lespinet.com
❚ CAUNES-MINERVOIS: A MARBLE HOTEL
The former workshop
where they used to
polish the red marble
of Caunes-Minervois is now
home to a singularly charming
three-star hotel (Logis de
France), La Marbrerie, which also
serves as a marble museum. Its
five rooms – each named after
a variety of marble (Griotte,
Encarnat, Turquin, Cervelas…)
– have remarkable features
such as a superb fireplace
entirely made of red marble or
“cervelas” marble details (grey,
with white and orange veins).
The restaurant and its café, with
46 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
the ‘Assiettes de Pays et Café
de Pays’ label, propose a menu
based on seasonal local produce.
Lastly, the hotel organises
marble-related exhibitions
and events all year round,
such as the ‘Rencontres entre
Designers et Artisans’ (Meeting
of Designers and Craftsmen),
in its museum area where you
will be able to discover the old
tools used by the polishers,
and where a whole series
of decorative and utilitarian
marble objects are on sale.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 79 28 74
www.la-marbrerie.fr
TREASURE HUNT IN RENNES-LE-CHÂTEAU
A lot has been written about the famous Visigoth treasure that
Father Saunière is supposed to have hidden somewhere in the
village church more than a century ago… Or was it Father Boudet,
the priest of Rennes les Bains? Supposing, that is, that this treasure
actually existed… To find out, there’s a half-day event that will
take budding adventurers on the traces of this mysterious booty,
along a trail dotted with enigmas and puzzles to be solved, ending
with a reward – the opportunity to discover the singular history
of Rennes-le-Château and its surroundings through a game.
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 72 73 81 20 - legendes-doc.com
❚ SAISSAC, AN IMMERSION IN HISTORY
❚ FANJEAUX, A MEDIEVAL FORTIFIED TOWN
Perched at an altitude of
360 metres on the Cuestas
hills, Fanjeaux watches over
the Lauragais plain and the
Montagne Noire. This strategic
location made it a key site for the
Cathar religion and Dominican
preaching, and then a large
town – protected in those days
by a portcullis and 14 towers
– that grew rich with the woad
trade in the 16th century.
Today, the village is still imbued
with this historic atmosphere,
with its steep narrow winding
streets, flanked by old stalls,
half-timbered houses and
exceptional monuments such
as the old monastery of the
Friars Preachers, which stands
out thanks to its 18th century
gateway. Every year on 16th
August, the inhabitants pay
tribute to Saint-Roch with a
votive festival in medieval
dress. The procession with the
relics ends with a mass said
in Occitan, before everyone
lets loose with the festivities
around the Arts and Crafts
Fair, a gourmet rural market
with street entertainments.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 75 45
www.lauragais-tourisme.fr
Take a swoop into history or
imagine that you’re on the set of
a cloak-and-dagger film? You’re
tempted by a bit of adventure?
Well, head for Saissac then! The
history of this lovely fortified
village, built between the 11th
and 12th centuries, is closely
linked to that of its castle. It
is said to be the oldest and
largest of the Cathar Country
castles, because the first written
mention of it dates back to
960. The guided tours will tell
you all about its architectural
development, which is
inseparable from the illustrious
people who lived there. Thus,
the 13th century keep evokes
the history of the lords of
DISOVERY GUIDE
» visit with the family
Saissac, including the famous
Bertrand de Saissac, protector
of the Cathar troubadours. The
Renaissance-era living quarters
remind us that the Bernuys,
rich pastel woad merchants,
settled in Saissac when the
village was a wealthy drapery
centre. As goes to show the
lovely 16th century Hôtel des
Saptes which, along with other
treasures such as the Maison
Soldano – an example of that
epoch’s civil architecture that
is unique in Aude – constitute
a veritable open-air museum,
to be visited at the time of
a stroll through the past.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 46 01
www.saissac.fr
Something special
❚ THE SOUGRAIGNES SALT AND GLASS ROUTE
Five kilometres from Rennes-les-Bains, do not miss the Route
du Sel et du Verre on the Sougraignes Salt Water Estate.
The famous Sals salt-water spring– 60gr of salt per litre! – a
remnant of the region’s geological past when it was still covered
by the sea forty million years ago, used to attract numerous
glassmakers in bygone days. They set up their smelters in the
surrounding forests where they could use the wood to heat their
furnaces, which functioned from 1650 to 1770. Today, a 2-km
circular route, sign-posted and punctuated with explanatory
panels, allows you to discover this strange glassmaking heritage,
notably two particularly well-preserved old furnaces on the
archaeological site of the Salines forest glassmaker’s workshop.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 69 82 94 - www.paysdecouiza.fr
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 47
❚ AUDE IN THREE STROKES OF A PENCIL
DISOVERY GUIDE
Every year the Gruissan
Comic Book Festival – one of
the largest drawing-related
events in France – brings
together some twenty
author-illustrators and
cartoon scriptwriters to
take part in exhibitions,
projections, discussions
with the public, themed
events and competitions. The
next meeting is scheduled
for mid-April for the 11th
edition. And in Castelnaudary,
the ‘Croquignous’ will be
organising the 18th edition
of the Press Cartoon and
Caricature Festival, inviting
more than 20 cartoonists
❚ AUDE BY BICYCLE
To dawdle around from one site to another, why not choose an
eco-friendly means of transport? At the Seuil de Naurouze, near
Castelnaudary, in Carcassonne, along the Canal du Midi, in Narbonne
or all around the Narbonnaise en Méditerranée area, there are a number
of bicycle rental firms proposing road, all-terrain and mountain bikes.
Vélos Séverac
Canal du Midi : Toulouse Castelnaudary - Carcassonne
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 88 28 64 44
www.location-velocanal-du-midi.com
Languedoc VTT évasion
Narbonne and Narbonnaise
en Méditerranée
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 74 89 75 98
http://languedocvttevasion.
over-blog.com
Génération VTT
Carcassonne and Narbonne
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 15 22 35 06
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 09 59 30 85
www.generation-vtt.com
48 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015
from 26th November to
6th December 2015.
Younger, but just as ambitious,
the Brugairolles Humorous
Drawing Festival will be
celebrating its second edition
on 6th September. Last year,
wine was the main target of
their wit. This year, rugby will
be the number-one topic for its
contributors’ acerbic pencils.
Not for sensitive souls.
Gruissan
www.ville-gruissan.fr and the
festival’s page on Facebook
Castelnaudary
croquignous.free.fr/index.htm
Brugairolles
The festival’s page on Facebook
❚ TRUFFLES ARE ONE
OF AUDE’S NUGGETS
“Since 1975, nearly 650 truffle
growers have planted more than
700 hectares in the département,”
it says on the Association des
trufficulteurs Audois’ website.
You will find two different types
in the area. From January to the
end of March, it’s the season
when the black truffle – known
as the Périgord truffle (tuber
melanosporum) – reaches
maturity. Then from the beginning
of May to the end of September it
is the turn of the white or summer
truffle (tuber aestivum) with its
finer fragrance. Although the
black truffles can be found on a
number of market stalls in the
winter in Moussoulens, Talairan
and Villeneuve-Minervois, the
summer markets for white truffles
are fewer and further between…
and all the more festive for that!
Make a note in your diary for
Saturday 27th June when the
3rd edition of the Summer Truffle
Festival will be held from 10am
to 6pm in Roullens. For €10 to
€12, you will be able to taste
dishes made with local produce
including the famous white truffle.
www.aude-truffes.com
Information on the
Roullens market:
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 89 25 47 87
❚ THE MICHELIN GALAXY:
TEN AUDE CHEFS IN THE
FIRMAMENT
● Auberge du Vieux Puits,
Gilles Goujon ***
11360 Fontjoncouse
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 44 07 37,
www.aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr
Le Parc, Franck Putelat **
80, chemin des anglais,
11000 Carcassonne
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 71 80 80,
www.restaurantleparcfranckputelat.fr
❚ ARTISANS D’ART
Thierry Auneau
A self-taught artist, Thierry
Auneau works the marbles of
Aude, in particular the CaunesMinervois Incarnat. He has
made a name for himself with
his “half-faces” in rough and
polished marble, and with his
monumental sculptures that
you can see in his open-air
studio in Caunes Minervois
and in his Atelier des Marbres
in the Cité de Carcassonne.
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 79 63 74 03
artistes-en-minervois.com/
thierry auneau.html
Patrick Chapert-Gaujal
This artist has developed a
highly distinctive art that
consists of retrieving and
transforming matter, in
particular materials washed up
by the sea. Based in La Franqui,
in an architect-designed house
built on the highest step of
the cliff, he also offers three
independent guest rooms.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 72 16
www.chappert-gaujal.com
Silvia et Philippe Merloz
Philippe and Silvia Merloz are
craft glass-workers. All the
pieces are hand-blown and
shaped. In July and August, the
couple offers the possibility
of seeing how their workshop
functions, mornings from
10.30 to 12.30 in Gruissan.
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 79 83 19 06
● Domaine d’Auriac,
Philippe Deschamps *
Route de St-Hilaire,
11000 Carcassonne
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 25 72 22,
www.domaine-d-auriac.com
Boris Klein
Passionate about traditional
ironworking, Boris Klein has
set up his forge in Lézignan
Corbières, with an exhibition
area open to the public. L’Art de
Fer also proposes blacksmith
and knife-making courses.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 42 38 46
www.lartdefer.com
Maryannick Cornou
A Breton by birth, Maryannick
has opened her mural art studio
in Alet les Bains, in a building
dating back to the 15th century
where she accomplishes
here painting projects.
Phone: 00 33 (0)6 78 86 13 46
www.france-art-realisation.com
Sylvaine Martel
Her “organic” creations are
the meeting place of her
dual passion for horticulture
and sculpture. Located in
Villedaigne, her Funambule
studio also proposes modelling
and raku lessons on request.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 90 66 75
or 00 33 (0)6 83 32 60 81
funambule.e-monsite.com
Maison d’Hôtes La Galerie
The artist Nicolas Galtier
has transformed a lovely
17th century in the village of
Leucate into an art gallery
and luxury guesthouse, that
he decorated himself.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 82 46
www.nicolas-galtier.com
● La Barbacane,
Jérôme Ryon *
Hôtel de la Cité,
Place Auguste-PierrePont, 11000 Carcassonne
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 71 98
71, www.hoteldelacite.com
● Le Puits du Trésor,
Jean-Marc Boyer *
Route des châteaux,
11600 Lastours
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 77 50 24,
www.lepuitsdutresor.com
● L’Ambrosia, Daniel Minet *
La Madeleine, 11170 Pezens
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 92 53,
www.ambrosia-pezens.com
★ ● La Bergerie,
Fabien Galibert *
Chemin de Pech-Mary,
11600 Aragon
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 26 10 65,
www.labergeriearagon.com
★ ● Château La Pomarède,
Gérald Garcia *
11400 La Pomarède
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 60 49 69,
www.hostellerie-lapomarede.fr
● La Table Saint-Crescent,
Lionel Giraud *
68, avenue du Général Leclerc,
11100 Narbonne
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 41 37 37,
www.la-table-saintcrescent.com
● Le Klim § Ko,
Alexandre Klimenko *
Chemin du Phare,
11370 Leucate
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 70 06 84,
www.klimenko.fr
★ Restaurants that are members of the Route du Cassoulet de Castelnaudary
● Restaurants with the Pays Cathare label
❚ “PAYS CATHARE”, THE QUALITY LABEL
The Pays Cathare® brand was created in 1992 with a view to
making known the quality of the local produce and services.
Recognisable by the blue and white logo, the Aude professionals
who adhere to the brand have met precise specifications
that guarantee the quality, origin and authenticity of their
know-how. There are now 900 of them working in a variety of
areas: Stays and Accommodation, Gastronomy and Savours,
Activities and Discoveries, Meeting with creators: Arts
and Crafts and Vineyard Welcome. Look out for the label
and you’ll be sure to receive the heartiest of receptions!
www.payscathare.com et m.payscathare.com
Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 49
DISOVERY GUIDE
Master crasmen and chefs, their works reflect the influence of the land of character in which they have chosen
to exercise their art. Our selection of stopovers for the pleasure of your senses.
DIARY
CULTURAL
EVENTS 2015
❚ ROMANESQUE ABBEYS
‣ Fugue “Fugue pas si
classique”: July
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 11 74 37
❚ CANAL DU MIDI
‣ Convivencia Festival
(world music): June - July
Phone: 00 33 (0)5 62 19 06 06
www.festivalconvivencia.net
❚ CARCASSONNE
‣ Embrasement de la Cité
Médiévale firworks: 14 July
‣ Festival de Carcassonne
(music, theatre, dance…):
6 June to 1st August
‣ Knights’ tournament:
5 July to 28 August
‣ Fair: 27 to 30 August
‣ Monument Jeu d’Enfant
(monument game for
children): 10 and 11 October
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 77 73 70
ou 00 33 (0)4 68 10 24 30
www.carcassonne-tourisme.com
❚ CAUNES-MINERVOIS
❚ LAGRASSE
‣ Festival “Les Abracadagrasses”:
17, 18 and 19 July
www.abracadagrasses.fr
‣ Book Banquet: 15 to
17 May, 7 to 15 August
and 23 to 25 October
Phone: 00 33 (0) 4 68 43 11 56
www.lagrasse.fr
www.lamaisondubanquet.fr
❚ LASTOURS
‣ “Cathares, La Canso”
nocturnal shows: 9, 16, 23, 30
July and 5, 8, 12, 26 August
‣ Cabaret Mediaeval
Camp: 8 et 9 August
‣ Live show by the Groupe OC
Cathares la Croisade: 19 August
Phone: 33 (0)4 68 77 56 02
www.chateauxdelastours.fr
❚ LIMOUX
‣ Limoux Carnival:
3 January to 13 March 2016
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 31 11 82
www.limoux.fr
‣ Nava Festival: 23
July to 1st August
www.festival-nava.com
‣ Marble Festival: 13, 14 June
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 78 03 88
www.lesmarbrieresdecaunes.fr
❚ CUCUGNAN
Story-telling festival: 14 to 17 July
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 69 40
www.corbieres-sauvages.com
❚ FONTFROIDE
‣ 10th Music and History
Festival for an intercultural
dialogue: 15 to 19 July
‣ Nocturnals at Fontfroide:
22 July to 28 August
‣ Fontfroide a du chœur singing
festival: 24 and 25 October
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 11 08
www.fontfroide.com
❚ GRUISSAN
‣ Les Festejades : du 22 au 24 mai
‣ Festival Hace Calor : 13 juin
‣ Music Festival: 21 June
‣ St Pierre Festival: 28 and 29 June
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 09 00
www.ville-gruissan.fr
‣ Festival La Primavera:
8 and 9 May
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 65 15 60
❚ PORT-LEUCATE
‣ “Voix d’étoiles” International
Festival of Animated Cinema
Voices: 21 to 25 October
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 91 31
www.voixdetoiles.com/
❚ LEZIGNAN-CORBIERES
‣ Art and Wine, cultural
programme in the Espace
Gibert: all year long
tourisme-corbieres-minervois.com/
agenda.html
❚ MAYRONNES
‣ Sculpture Path: end of
April to mid-September
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 43 12 37
❚ NARBONNE :
‣ Hospitalet Jazz Fridays:
20 March to 30 October
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 28 54
www.chateau-hospitalet.com
❚ AIGUES-VIVES
‣ Apple, wine and rice
festival: 11 October
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 79 29 20
❚ BELPECH
‣ Fatted Foods Fair:
12 and 13 December
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 23 05 73
❚ BIZE-MINERVOIS
‣ Olive tree festival: 19 July
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 46 10 29
❚ BOUTENAC
❚ PUIVERT
❚ CARCASSONNE
‣ Mediaeval Music Concert:
19 July and 16 August
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 80 98
www.museequercorb.com
❚ SAISSAC
❚ LEUCATE
TERROIR
EVENTS 2015
‣ “Voix d’étoiles” International
Festival of Animated Cinema
Voices: 21 to 25 October
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 91 31
www.tourisme-leucate.fr
‣ Nature, Song and Heritage
in Donezan: 23 to 25 May
‣ Autumn Colours in Donezan:
17 and 18 October
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 41 37
www.donezan.com
‣ Jazz Festival: autumn and spring
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 27 71 99
‣ Great Peyrepertuse Mediaeval
Festival: 11 and 12 August
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 40 55
www.chateau-peyrepertuse.com
❚ NARBONNE-PLAGE
❚ USSON
❚ CONILHAC-CORBIERES
❚ DUILHAC-SOUSPEYREPERTUSE
‣ Tempo d’Eté (Summer
Festival): 20 June to 30 August
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 65 15 60
www.narbonne-tourisme.com
‣ Music Festival: 21 June
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 90 26 53
m.sour[email protected]
‣ Hospitalet Jazz Festival:
29 July to 1st August
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 28 54
www.chateau-hospitalet.com
‣ Festival Barques en scène :
27, 28 and 29 August
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 90 26 53
[email protected]
‣ Mediaeval Camp:
8 and 9 August
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 46 01
www.saissac.fr
❚ SAINT-HILAIRE
‣ Nocturnal Guided Tours:
6 and 13 August
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 69 62 76
abbayedesainthilaire.
pagesperso-orange.fr/
❚ SAINT-MARTIN-LE-VIEIL
‣ 2nd “Musica Méditerranéa”,
Villelongue Abbey festival:
24 May, 26 July and 2 August
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 90 38
www.abbaye-de-villelongue.com
❚ TUCHAN
‣ Mediaeval Activities:
8 and 22 July, 5 and 19 August
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 51 00
www.tuchan.fr
‣ Camins, Boutenac
wine walk: 27 June
www.tourisme-corbieresminervois.com/agenda.html
‣ Grape Harvest Festival:
15 and 16 October
‣ Fatted Foods Fair:
20 December
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 10 24 30
or 00 33 (0)4 68 77 70 48
www.carcassonne-tourisme.com
❚ CASTANS
‣ 20th Castanhada Chestnut Festival:
Last weekend of October
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 26 15 97
www.tourisme-haut-minervois.fr
❚ CASTELNAUDARY
‣ Cassoulet Festival:
26 to 30 August
‣ Fatted Foods Fair: 6 December
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 23 05 73
www.castelnaudary-tourisme.com
❚ CITOU
‣ Sweet onion festival:
6 September
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 25 46 12
❚ IN LES CORBIERES
‣ Summer in Corbières: 13 June,
in the cellars of the Cru Corbières
taking part in the event.
‣ Vine and Wine
University: autumn
www.tourisme-corbieresminervois.com/agenda.html
❚ ESPEZEL
‣ Stockbreeding Festival
24 and 25 October
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 20 21
or 00 33 (0)4 68 20 30 34
❚ HOMPS
‣ Chai Port Minervois
winemakers’ gathering (Cru
Minervois): May to October
‣ Tasting – 30 years of AOC
Minervois: 5 and 6 September
www.tourisme-corbieresminervois.com/agenda.html
❚ TRAUSSE-MINERVOIS
‣ Cherry Festival: 31 May
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 11 79 42
❚ VILLARDONNEL
‣ Cathar country chestnut,
Primeur wine and lamb
festival: 1st November
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 26 52 41
❚ VILLENEUVE-MIVERVOIS
‣ Truffle and Aude Produce
Market: 16 January and
6 February 2016
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 10 61 07
www.aude-truffes.com
SPORTING
EVENTS 2015
❚ LEUCATE
‣ Sol y Fiesta: 14 to 16 May
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 91 31
❚ LÉZIGNAN-CORBIÈRES
‣ Promaude, Terroir
Festival: 22 to 25 May
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 41 40 09
www.wmaker.net/promaude
‣ Primeur wine festival: October
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 27 05 42
❚ LIMOUX
‣ Toques et Clochers:
19 and 20 March 2016
‣ Fatted Foods Fair:
21 November
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 31 11 82
www.limoux.fr
❚ MOUSSOULENS
‣ Ampélofolies (Truffle and Cabardès
Festival): 24 January 2016
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 80 80
or 00 33 (0)4 68 11 79 92
ampelofolies.over-blog.com
❚ PEZENS
‣ Cathar Country Melon
Festival: 26 July
Phone: 00 33 (0)6.15.41.25.67
❚ RIEUX-MINERVOIS
‣ Pumpkin and Gardeners
Festival: 2nd fortnight of October
‣ Fatted Foods Fair
19 December
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 76 34 74
or 00 33 (0)4 68 78 24 63
www.tourisme-haut-minervois.fr
❚ TALAIRAN
‣ Truffle Markets:
9 and 30 January
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 10 61 07
www.aude-truffes.com
MOUNTAINBIKE – CYCLE
TOURING - CYCLING
❚ CAUNES-MINERVOIS
‣ Classic 11 audoise: 14 May
laclassic11-laudoise.jimdo.com
❚ FERRALS-LES-CORBIERES
‣ Paul Bonnet cycle touring
challenge: 23 August
aude.ffct.org/calendrier
❚ LEZIGNAN-CORBIERES
‣ The Festival Rally:
2 August
‣ Primeur wine cycle
tour: 24 October
aude.ffct.org/calendrier
❚ LUC-SUR-ORBIEU
ALL SPORTS
‣ Orbieu Ramble:
9 August
aude.ffct.org/calendrier
❚ GRUISSAN
❚ MONTAGNE NOIRE
❚ DUILHAC-SOUSPEYREPERTUSE
❚ QUILLAN
‣ Traditional Sports Festival,
Place du Moulin: 4 July
gruissan-mediterranee.com
‣ Extreme outdoor sports
international festival: 6 June
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 40 55
www.chateau-peyrepertuse.com
WATERSPORTS
❚ FLEURY-D’AUDE /
SAINT-PIERRE LA MER
‣ 11th European Junior
Kitesurf Cup and 1st French
Kitesurf Boarder Cross
Championship: 10 to 13 April
www.snkite.com
‣ Cap Nore:
20 and 21 June
www.capnore.com
‣ Carach bike: 3 May
‣ 72e International Gala:
August
www.pyreneesaudoises.com
❚ TUCHAN
‣ Mont Tauch Ramble:
24 May
aude.ffct.org/calendrier
❚ THE LOCAL PRODUCE
MARKETS
‣ Capendu, Saturday
4 July, 5pm to midnight.
‣ Fanjeaux, Sunday, 19
July, 10am to 6pm.
‣ Axat, Friday 31 July,
5pm to 10pm.
‣ Belvèze-du-Razès,
Sunday 2 August,
10am to 6pm.
‣ Homps, Tuesday 4
August, 5pm to 10 pm.
‣ Azille, Thursday 6
August, 5pm to 10pm.
‣ Roubia, Friday
14 August, 5pm to 10pm.
‣ Cabrespine, Wednesday
26 August, 2pm to 10pm.
‣ Routier, Saturday 5
September, 10am to 6pm.
‣ Villegly, Sunday 20
September, 10am to 6pm.
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 11 79 42
www.aude.chambagri.fr
INFO +
All the events at
www.audetourisme.com
83x110 languedoc_Mise en page 1 10/04/14 10:00 Page1
www.routard.com
❚ GRUISSAN
‣ Defi wind: 14 to 17 May 2015
‣ Sailing Tour of France:
19 and 20 July 2015
gruissan-mediterranee.com
❚ LEUCATE
‣ Mondial du vent –
Wind World Cup: 18 to 26 April
www.mondial-du-vent.com
C’est vrai, le luxe d’une chambre d’hôtel
se juge à son nombre d’étoiles.
Le Routard, l’indispensable de vos voyages.
CROSS COUNTRY TRAIL
❚ CARCASSONNE
‣ Carcassonne –Cathar Country
Marathon: 6 and 7 June
www.marathoncarcassonne.com
‣ Cathar Great Raid:
15, 16 and 17 October
www.grandraid-cathares.fr
❚ GRUISSAN
‣ La Barberousse: 5 July
gruissan-mediterranee.com
DIARY
‣ Grape Harvest Festival: October
Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 33 91
or 00 33 (0)4 68 49 09 00
www.gruissan-mediterranee.com
- Photo : Don Smith/Getty
❚ GRUISSAN
WITH CARCASSONNE AIRPORT,
TRAVELING SMART !

Similar documents

the mag

the mag “CATHARES” DE PYRÉNÉES MAGAZINE, 2014 PYRÉNÉES MAGAZINE ET CAHIERS DU PATRIMOINE sont édités par MILAN PRESSE SAS, société par actions simplifiées, 300, rue Léon-Joulin, 31100 Toulouse. Président e...

More information