Gilding, Glitter and Gems

Transcription

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You may not sell, offer for sale, exchange or otherwise transfer this publication without the
express written permission of the publisher.
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Always use safe, natural red-brown henna in your henna work. Never use any “black henna”
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Copyright © 2003 Catherine Cartwright-Jones Tapdancing Lizard LLC
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2
Gilding and Zardosi Techniques:
Gilding Paste, Gems and Glitter Work
Gilding, Glitter and Gem work is a recent popular innovation in Indian bridal technique,
adding dazzle and glamor to henna. These techniques are spectacular, yet easy to master.
In India, these adornments are often called Zardosi because they emulate the fabulous
gold embroidered, bejeweled bridal sari fabrics. As upper class Indian wedding
celebrations expand to a week or more, the modern bride may wish to have her
adornment match two dozen saris or more, with an artist re-applying dazzle twice a day.
These transitory techniques can be used on their own, at the time of henna paste
application, or to ornament the henna stain. They are designed to be "of the moment", to
please the camera's eye, and delight the wedding guests.
If you're working a festival, and you're competing with other henna artists, gilding gems,
and glitter will make your henna stand out from the competition! There will always be
potential clients who would like to be adorned, but who don't want a lingering stain.
Offer them these techniques! There are always little children who want adornment, but
whom you should NOT henna for health reasons.
Learn how to create your own pastes and do this beautiful work.
All rights reserved
3
Learn to make gilding pastes
Learn to make glitter pastes
Learn how to apply gems
Learn to Glitter Your Henna
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4
Examples of Gilding and Glitter work:
Gilding pastes and gems
Gilding and Gems as adornment to paste and stain: 1
Gilding paste as an adornment to paste and stain: 2
Gilding and Gems with paste
All rights reserved
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Gilding paste for reverse work: 1
Gilding paste used for reverse work: 2
Willowhawk's Gilding and Glitter Mix
Glitter work done with hair glue
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Glitter work with medical adhesive
Glitter work with resin-based body paint
Glitter work with resin-based body paint
Gilding with resin-based body paint
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Gilding over henna stains
An example of gilding work over henna from Warrior
Gilding Techniques: Spiking Gel and Hair Glue Method
Make your own gilding pastes easily, safely and
inexpensively!
Use hair spiking gel (also called sculpting gel) or hair glue for your base.
Choose a spiking gel:
To find a spiking gel suitable for making gilding paste, go shopping for a hair
styling gel which advertises "super hold", "wicked hold" and is meant to pull hair
up into rigid gravity-defying spikes. Look for "water resistant" in the product
descriptions. Turn the bottle of spiking gel upside down and see if any bubbles rise
quickly, slowly, or don't move at all. If the bubble rises fast, your gilding paste
will be runny and not hold its shape. If the bubble stays still, your gilding paste
will hold a fine, neat, firm line.
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Turn the spiking gel upside down to see if bubbles rise or stay in place.
Left: Bubble rising in hair gel: the paste may be runny.
Right: Bubbles do not rise in hair gel: paste will hold its shape.
If you can find a spiking gel that is water resistant, and so thick that the bubbles
rise slowly or not at all, that's the one to get. The ones from beauty supply stores
are more expensive, but tend to work better than those from grocery stores.
Manufacturers change their formulae, change products, and products vary in
different areas, so shop around for your gel, and expect to have to change your mix
from time to time.
Spiking gel based pastes are slow to dry, but once they're completely dry, they're
tenacious, flexible, and water resistant. If you scrub or soak them, they're GONE.
The ones that are slow drying tend to flake less. Those that dry quickly flake
more. Thicker, more expensive beauty supply shop gels hold their shape and line
better than thinner, cheaper grocery store gels. If you don't know which gel to get,
go to a beauty supply shop, and ask what gel makes the highest, most rigid hair
spikes, and doesn't easily wash out. Buy that one.
You will need pigment:
Lumiere powder is an excellent source for pigment! "Lumiere Powder" comes in
all sorts of colors and metallics. Most theatrical and costume supply shops carry
Lumiere Powder, and you can find sources online by searching "gold lumiere
powder".
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9
Ben Nye and Mehron both have Lumiere powders. These are very finely ground
so they are easy to mix up and won't clog even the finest tip. You can also grind
up old eyeshadow powder and use that for color, if you can even out all the lumps.
The Mehron gold and silver powders have a chemical reaction with some hair gels
4 days after mixing, separating into curds, water and bubbles. The Ben Nye
powders do not to this, except for the silver.
Mix paste with hair spiking gel:
Stir 1 part Lumiere powder into 8 parts of spiking gel. That proportion is very
approximate! Please experiment and decide for yourself what's going to work best
for YOU! Stir it until there are no more lumps and the powder is completely mixed
into the paste.
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If you're doing a lot of this, use a filter mask! The Lumiere powder would prefer to
fly around than mix into the paste! It's easier to put the Lumiere powder on top of
the paste and stir it in, rather than trying to stir gel into Lumiere!
Mix gilding paste with hair glue.
Hair glues are slower to dry than gels; you will probably need to use a blow dryer
to get them completely dried. They are often vinyl based, and are tenacious and
flexible. Once dried, they are more water resistant than hair gel.
Most hair glue is white or transparent. Some beauty supply shops have bright
colored hair glue that make beautiful gilding paste base! Choose a glue that
compliments your pigment color. Add 1 part Lumiere powder to 5 parts of hair
glue.
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11
Apply your hair glue paste in fine, delicate patterns or they'll never dry. Fine
patterns take about an hour to dry without a blow dryer.
When you've got your pastes stirred up, put them into baggies or carrot bags. The
gilding gels and glues will stay fresh in the refrigerator or a cool place until you
need them! Do not freeze your gilding paste; it may separate when it thaws.
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12
When you're ready to work, squeeze some paste from your carrot bag into a mylar
cone. Make the tip smaller than you do for henna. Click HERE to Learn to make
and use a mylar cone!
The pattern above is adapted from
"Bella's Wildflowers" by Christine Fenzl,
from TapDancing Lizard.
Apply the gilding paste in very fine lines, finer than you usually apply henna
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13
paste! Thinner lines dry faster, and are less likely to peal off than thicker lines.
Use the same techniques and skills with gilding paste as you use for henna.
If you use hair glue based gilding paste, make the lines as fine as possible.
You can get Lumiere powder at costume shops or online from
http://www.stagesupply.com/lumgrand.html
Gilding Techniques: Spiking Gel and Body Glitter
Make your own glitter pastes easily, safely and
inexpensively!
Use hair spiking gel (also called sculpting gel) for your base.
See http://www.hennapage.com/henna/how/gilding/ to decide what hair gel to purchase.
Its especially important to get a thick, non-runny hair gel for your glitter mix, because
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14
glitter will separate out of a runny gel, and be impossible to use. Hair gels come in
several colors, though they dry nearly transparent. Get hair spiking gel in a color that will
compliment your glitter.
Get superfine body glitter to make your glitter paste. Chunky glitters will clog your cone
tip. Use cosmetic quality glitter, not craft glitter.
Jerome Russell's Pixie Sparkle body glitter is fine enough to go through the finest
cone tip, and is available at Sally's Beauty Supply shops.
A reliable online supplier for fine cosmetic quality glitter is
http://www.amerikanbodyart.com/
Add 1 part glitter to 8 parts hair gel. (That proportion is very approximate! Please
experiment and decide for yourself what's going to work best for YOU!) Add a small
amount of lumiere powder if you want the paste to be slightly opaque. Stir these
together.
Put that into a carrot bag.
When its time to use the glitter paste, squeeze some from the carrot bag into a mylar
cone. Apply the glitter paste with the mylar cone, just as you would apply henna.
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15
Apply your glitter pastes by themselves, with henna paste, or on a finished henna design.
There are commercially available glitter products you can use with your henna. Look in
a costume or theatrical supply shop for "waterproof glitter" or in a shop with a wide range
of cosmetics. Some come in bottles ready to apply as you would henna paste. Others
come with a built in brush. Most of these products are tenacious, beautiful, and easy to
use. Look for a product that has a list of ingredients and read them! Some products have
very strange smells, and others will burn the skin. Products from reputable cosmetic
companies are the safest!
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16
Mehandi
Tapdancing Lizard™ The Henna Page™
http://www.mehandi.com 4237 Klein Ave., Stow, Ohio, 44224
330-688-1130 phone 330-688-8803 FAX
Catherine Cartwright-Jones Email: [email protected]
“I Want to Try It” Body Art Samples
No-Sift Henna
Stringy Henna
Turmeric
Pickling Lime
Sample of Ancient Blue Crystal Indigo for Body Art
3 Plastic Gloves
1 Cotton Glove
3 Carrot Bags
4 Mylar and/or Cellowrap Triangles
Tattoo Transfer Paper
3 Templates
Citric Acid
Tamarind Paste
2 Dried Limes
Cardamom Pods
Fructose
Dextrose
00 metal tip for carrot bags
Sample Aurora Purple Mist Glitter #34
Sample Aurora Rose Glitter #13
Sample Bridal Red Glitter #2
Sample Aurora Sunrise Red Glitter #4
Sample Bright Gold Glitter #16
Sample Aurora Gold Glitter #40
Sample Aurora Willow Glitter #6
Sample Aurora Goddess Green Glitter #15
Sample Peacock #14
Sample Tropical Sea Glitter #19
Sample Aurora Sky Glitter #8
Sample Ultraviolet glitter #18
Sample Aurora Silver Glitter #7
Sample Aurora Ice Glitter #25
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Mehandi GildingGel to Make Your Own Gilding Paste
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Gilding Powder to Make Your Own Gilding Paste
Pearl #22 4g gilding powder
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Silver #111 4g gilding powder
Sunshine Gold #103 4g gilding powder
Bridal Gold #7 4g gilding powder
Forest #51 4g gilding powder
Peacock #112 4g gilding powder
Turquoise #113 4g gilding powder
Amethyst #14 4g gilding powder
Rose #41 4g gilding powder
Orchid #40 4g gilding powder
Bridal Red #33 4g gilding powder
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75 Swarovski Diamonds
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75 Swarovski Ruby Aurora
75 Swarovski Dowry Gold
75 Swarovski Ruby
75 Swarovski Sapphire
75 Swarovski Fuchsia
75 Swarovski Aurora Sapphire
75 Swarovski Gothic Hematite
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100 pre-cut large Mylar Triangles for SuperCones
20 small pre-rolled cones
20 large pre-rolled cones
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Ultra Fine Mehandi Glitter:
5g Aurora Purple Mist Glitter #34
5g Aurora Rose Glitter #13
5g Bridal Red Glitter #2
5g Aurora Sunrise Red Glitter #4
5g Bright Gold Glitter #16
5g Aurora Gold Glitter #40
5g Aurora Willow Glitter #6
5g Aurora Goddess Green Glitter #15
5g Peacock #14
5g Tropical Sea Glitter #19
5g Aurora Sky Glitter #8
5g Ultraviolet Glitter #18
5g Holographic Violet# 44
5g Aurora Silver Glitter #7
5g Aurora Ice Glitter #25
5g Aurora Shimmering Midnight #10
12g Bridal Red Glitter #2
12g Aurora Gold Glitter #40
12g Aurora Ice Glitter #25
12 g Aurora Silver Glitter #7
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3 Aquarellable Pencils (indigo colors)
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Dipti Desai’s Mehandi 1
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Finding Blue
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Glory of Henna
Henna, the Joyous Body Art
Henna’s Significance
How to Start Your Own Henna Business
Indian Patterns for the Aspiring Henna Artist
Jewish Patterns from Kurdish Folk Art: A
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Lezard’s First
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Gilding, Glitter and Gems

Transcription

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