Magazine Layout - Raleigh Limited Menswear

business
by ba rba r a e. cohen
PHILANTHROCAPITALISM
B
Doing good feels good—and is great for your business’s bottom line
Ben & Jerry’s and Target are two corporations with a strong commitment to making the world a better place for everyone, including people who may never eat an ice
cream cone or buy a toaster.
Both are very big companies that back global causes. But no matter the size of
your company or the number of customers you serve, making philanthropy part of your
mission is a wise business decision. Nonprofit agencies large and small are looking
to partner with you.
If you aren’t sure where to start, consider
volunteering on Make a Difference Day,
which this year falls on Saturday, October
25. Billed as “a national day to help others,”
USA WEEKEND began its effort to expand
social responsibility and caring in 1990.
neighbors helping neighbors
Select a cause
Small-scale retailers can make a significant contribution to the arts by sponsoring
exhibitions of works by local artists at their stores, providing garments and expert
assistance for charity fashion shows, or donating items for silent auctions too.
Sometimes the link between a corporation and a not-for-profit organization is less
about the merchandise than about the message. When Lori Burley, the “Mama Hen”
of 2 Red Hens, maker of upscale baby diaper bags and accessories based in Denver,
Colorado, found out that she had cervical cancer, it changed her life. She vowed to
donate a portion of her company’s sales to research on finding a cure for the disease,
which affects millions of women a year. In addition, her company’s Web site offered
educational information about cervical cancer to clients.
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raleigh limited magazine
In 2006, three million Americans took part
in thousands of projects in hundreds of
towns. You can download a brochure with
advice for getting started and an entry
form to register your project. Next April, if
you’re selected as one of ten honorees,
the charity of your choice will receive a
gift of $10,000 provided by Newman’s
Own.
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business
Design a program
Once you’ve identified a cause, organization, or individual recipient of your assistance, next consider how to make the best use of your and your employees’ time and
energy to reach your goals.
According to comments made by Robert B. Zoellick, president and CEO of the
Center for Strategic and International Studies in an address before the BusinessHumanitarian Forum in 1999, modern corporate citizenship is multifaceted. Zoellick
identified six possible perspectives on corporate charity:
“First, some view corporate citizenship as an oxymoron. Corporations are engines
of shareholder wealth, not citizens…[and] corporations should focus solely on business, leaving the public welfare to others, including government.
“A second school sees corporate citizenship as a strategy for risk avoidance. Its
goal is to avoid being singled out by consumers, governments or international groups
for hostile attention.
“The third view considers corporate citizenship as a condition for doing business.
Citizenship activities are, in effect, the price for a corporate charter—a license for
business.
“A fourth perspective adheres to the view that corporations do have a social
responsibility and should do the right thing out of social obligation. The task…is to
balance this social responsibility with other obligations, in particular with respect to
investors.
“The fifth school of thought considers corporate citizenship as a long-term investment to improve the business environment, similar to investing in infrastructure or
research and development.
“And the sixth approach considers corporate citizenship to be a vehicle that helps
businesses achieve their strategic goals. Corporate citizenship, in this view, helps
strengthen markets and customers, lays the groundwork for good government relations and builds employee loyalty.”
Equating the last two perspectives—corporate citizenship as a
long-term investment and as a vehicle to help achieve strategic goals—
with corporate success, Zoellick
concluded that corporate citizenship
offers a competitive advantage in
the modern business environment.
He identified five strategic components of corporate citizenship: promoting corporate missions and values, shaping the public policy context, acting locally while thinking globally, developing and supporting people within
companies, and building effective strategic alliances.
Reap the rewards
Assuming you agree that corporations have a social responsibility, you can meet
those obligations in many ways. You might start small and stay small, identifying with
the “think globally, work locally” mindset. Perhaps you agree to sign the crew up for
a weekend building a house with your local chapter of Habitat for Humanity. Or your
department holds a bake sale to sponsor a Special Olympian. Such efforts can be a
one-time deal or ongoing, depending on your objectives.
If you are looking to make a bigger statement, set up a separate entity within the
corporation to manage the company’s charitable contributions. Ben & Jerry’s focuses on programs for children and families, the environment, and sustainable agriculture on family farms through corporate and individual efforts. For example, when hundreds of Ben & Jerry’s Scoop Shop owners met in Cancun in January 2008 for a little
rest and relaxation, the group also painted, planted, cleaned, and fixed up a children’s
school in nearby Puerto Morelos, a village just south of the popular resort town.
“What a great day,” said Debra Heintz, director of retail operations, “Every year we
have the opportunity to show our social mission commitment as a franchise family.”
The best reward was seeing the smiling students who flooded into the freshly
refurbished school grounds to enjoy their new digs and an ice cream social that followed.
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While ice cream and sweat equity
might cure some people’s problems,
Merck Pharmaceuticals was “inspired
by the ideals of advancement of medical
science and of service to humanity,”
according to the company’s past president, George W. Merck II. The company
developed and gave away a drug to cure
river blindness because failure to do so
would have demoralized the company’s
scientists. After World War II, Merck
brought streptomycin to Japan to eliminate tuberculosis. Although the venture
made no money, the effort has paid off in
other ways. Merck is now the third
largest American pharmaceutical company in Japan.
For philanthropy within the fashion
industry, the estate of Geoffrey Beene is
hard to match. In 2007, the late fashion
designer’s estate gave a $5 million gift
to the Council of Fashion Designers of
America, which in the previous twenty
years or so had awarded only about
$300,000 in grants. Through the gift,
Beene’s estate will provide scholarships
and an endowment in his name to promising design students.
“This sets a good precedent for
American designers to give something
back to the industry,” said Richard
Lambertson, founder of Lambertson
Truex and a board member of both
CFDA and the Geoffrey Beene Estate.
The estate has also donated $44 million to Memorial Sloan-Kettering
Cancer Center in New York City, establishing the Geoffrey Beene Cancer
Research Center in the designer’s
honor, $10 million to the Animal Medical
Center in Manhattan, $10 million to the
American Society for the Prevention of
Cruelty to Animals, and $1 million to the
Young Menswear Association.
Not sure corporate giving is worth
your time and energy? Consider that 14
percent of the U.S. population seeks to
purchase goods from “good corporate
citizens,” according to research collected by Frank Walker, former president of
Walker Information. The same study
revealed that when potential consumers
are trying to decide between two similar
products or companies, approximately
40 percent consider corporate citizenship as the tiebreaker.
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travel
by g a r y wol l enhaupt
Jet Setter
Jet cards bring the cost of private jet travel down to earth
I
In 2007, airline passengers in the United States spent 320 million hours caught up
in flight delays. Feel like about a million hours came out of your life?
More business travelers are learning the travel secret of corporate bigwigs who
had the market cornered on private jet travel for years. With the growth of jet charter cards, private jet service has become affordable for companies that may not
be counted among the Fortune 500. These days, private jet travel is not solely a
CEO perk.
Time saver
Think about it: if a company has three or four senior executives traveling to a meeting with a major client or investor, that represents a significant portion of the organization’s intellectual capital. What’s the better return on investment? Saving a few
hundred dollars as a senior executive team waits to check in, goes through security,
and then gets stuck on the tarmac for hours or to have the high-dollar rainmakers
drive up to the private terminal, park, and be wheels up inside half an hour? The flight
ends at one of the five thousand general aviation airports that serve business jets,
compared to the five hundred or so that offer commercial airline service.
Buying a jet outright to circumvent commercial flying can be a significant investment,
with basic models starting around $12 million. Fractional ownership is one option, with
an arrangement similar to a time-share condo. Ownership of an aircraft is typically
divided among sixteen partners, who are guaranteed a certain number of flight hours at
a set price. Like a condo, owners also pay monthly maintenance fees. Owners also reap
tax benefits of ownership, such as depreciation and other deductions.
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raleigh limited magazine
The jet card is another option, especially for companies that may not need a
lot of flight hours or don’t have the
balance sheet necessary to support
fractional ownership. Jet cards work
basically like a debit card. A company
or individual makes a deposit for a
specified number of hours of air travel.
Each flight hour is deducted from the
account, until the account is depleted
or money is added.
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jet setter
Pick a program
Most jet card companies don’t actually operate the aircraft but act as a broker for
charter operators. The price of admission varies, as do the rules of operation for each
broker.
Cerulean Jet offers a $28,000 deposit but requires a forty-eight-hour notice for a
flight in its Sky Card on Demand level. That buys time in the business-class jet of four
to six passengers to the tune of $2,000 per hour. At the Elite Level, a $207,000 deposit
buys time in the same class of aircraft at $1,900 per hour.
At JetNetwork, flight card memberships run $100,000 for the gold level, $250,000
for platinum, and reach $500,000 for black. Passengers can fly on jets in many categories, from small-capacity light cabins to midsize and supermidsize cabins to socalled heavy-metal jets that can cross the oceans.
Delta offers the AirElite service, with membership fees starting at $43,900 for ten hours
aboard a light jet. Delta requires only a twelve-hour notice before flights, perfect for emergency response and customer meetings in a competitive industry. In addition, Delta’s jet
card confers all the benefits of Medallion status in the Delta SkyMiles program.
Programs vary in the flexibility they
allow in changing aircraft types. For
one trip, a company might send ten
people to a meeting across the country.
On another day, three people may
need to make a quick jaunt a few hundred miles away. It’s efficient to be able
to use the appropriate size of aircraft
for a trip and not get stuck paying for
empty seats.
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raleigh limited magazine
jets
Sky’s the limit
If a business adds up the cost of air travel, the productivity lost to waiting, and the
wear and tear on executives en route, the cost of charter air travel can seem like a
bargain.
Don’t forget the private part of “private jet.” Passengers can conduct business
without the fear of being overheard. Most jets have conference room–style cabin
interiors, so work can continue in comfort. Some larger jets have phones and Internet
connections so passengers can stay in touch with those on the ground throughout
the flight.
conrad
Through the Doors of Luxury
The magic behind the Conrad Indianapolis
There’s just something about the Conrad Indianapolis — something majestic, enchanting, and
perhaps a little mysterious. The luxury hotel resides at the busiest downtown intersection, and the
front drive displays the hustle and bustle of the big names and big money that pass in and out and
onto their next venture. All the while, amongst the fancy scene and through the porte cochere, lies
a hotel full of warmth, calmness, and perfection that leaves guests wondering how they pull it off.
With such a hotel, it’s the smallest details that make the biggest impression. It’s the behind-thescenes secrets of operation that make the everyday flow of the hotel seamless to the naked eye.
Maybe it is the staff that has it programmed in their head to genuinely say “my pleasure,” or ask how
they may be of service. Or is it the extra glistening detail to their array
of pastries? Guests may sometimes wonder how everyone there knows
their name, but in the end it doesn’t really matter, because who doesn’t appreciate instant VIP status.
The personality of the place and the people are truly what make the operation come to life. You’ll
want to meet Salmone, the bellmen, who exudes such a charm and pride in taking your luggage directly
to your room; or Conrad, the doorman, whose name really is Conrad. It’s a challenge to find something
the concierge doesn’t know about the city or the hotel, and, like true luxury living, there’s someone to take
your order from their customized pillow menu.
You see, it is a hotel of the perfect mix: midwestern hospitality and service combined with contemporary sophistication. The Conrad Indianapolis is attainable luxury in a city that doesn’t often come
to mind first as a place for a perfect weekend getaway or a venue to host a corporate event. But with
exquisite culinary creations, deluxe accommodations, and a serene health and wellness spa, guests
won’t want to exit through those doors of luxury. In the end it truly is a place that offers the best luxury
of all…the luxury of being yourself.
Upscale.
downtown.
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THE LUXURY OF BEING YOURSELF®
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Original. Creative. Distinguished.
Gentlemen with Style
RALEIGH’S FALL & WINTER FASHIONS AT THE LUXURIOUS CONRAD HOTEL
Zegna brown suit 2,395
Zegna shirt 295
Zegna tie 160
Robert Talbott pocket square 50
Ferragamo shoes 565
Zegna tie 150
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Isaia silk & cashmere sport coat
Made to Measure 2,495
Armani shirt 325
Armani trousers 395
Isaia brown and blue pinstripe suit 2,695
Robert Talbot blue shirt 295
Zegna tie 160
Model: J.R. Miller
Gimo’s wool lined leather jacket 2,095
Nat Nast stripe shirt 195
Hiltl corduroy five pocket slacks 185
Nat Nast 1/4” zip cotton mock 175
Donald Pliner shoes 265
MODEL: KEN WARD
Model: Alan Cohn
Zegna green and blue windowpane sport coat 2,195
Zegna blue trousers 295
Brunello Cuccinelli cashmere sweater 575
Eton shirt 215
Zegna tie 160
Donald Pliner shoes 340
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On J.R.:
Armani gray wool suit – Made to Measure 2,145
Armani white shirt 325
Zegna tie 150
On Ken:
Canali brown and lavender pinstripe suit 1,795
Isaia lavender shirt 375
Berend Dewitt paisley tie 125
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Model: Dr. Simon Abraham
Etro plaid velour sport coat 1,250
Armani trousers 325
Etro shirt 295
Etro tie 165
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MODELS: NOAH GLAZIER AND RYAN ZUCKERMAN
Hickey-Freeman navy suit 495
Hickey-Freeman shirt 98
Hickey-Freeman tie 57
Hickey-Freeman olive suit 495
Hickey-Freeman shirt 85
Hickey-Freeman tie 57
Lacoste full-zip hoody sweat shirt 165
Lacoste stripe polo 98
Diesel black washed Quartt jeans 200
Donald Pliner shoes 265
Lacoste full-zip gray hoody sweatshirt 155
Lacoste vintage washed black polo 92
Diesel Quratt jeans 200
John Varvatos shoes 375
MODELS LEFT TO RIGHT:
MEGAN JEX,
MICHAEL GREENBERG,
TRISH REGAN AND HAYDEN KOPLOW
Versace blue peak lapel suit 995
Versace shirt 225
Robert Talbott tie 100
Mezlan shoes 295
Versace teal peak lapel sport coat
Versace jeans
Versace blue floral shirt
Etro tie 135 & Mezlan shoes
898
275
275
245
Hickey-Freeman black pinstripe suit 495
Hickey-Freeman shirt 98
Hickey-Freeman tie 57
Hickey-Freeman sport coat 325
Hickey-Freeman corduroy slacks 125
Hickey-Freeman shirt 98
Hickey Freeman plaid cashmere sport coat 1,895
Hiltl cotton corduroy slacks 225
Zegna sport shirt 335
Raffi sweater 195
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Model: Iriette Malone
Canali tuxedo 1,850
Eton paisley shirt 245
Armani tie 140
Mezlan shoes 245
Hickey-Freeman
Tuxedo 1,495
Eton shirt 215
Robert Talbott tie and
cummerbund 195
Mezlan shoes 295
Luciano Barbera wool and suede outerwear jacket 1,595
Luciano Barbera cotton slack 365
Luciano Barbera cotton stripe shirt 325
Etro cashmere sweater 695
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Zegna Elements wool coat 2,395
Zegna cotton stripe shirt 335
Zanella wool slacks 365
Zegna cashmere 1/4 zip sweater w/ suede trim 745
Ferragamo shoes 475
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Seraphin shearling coat 3,295
Agave long sleeve waffle weave t-shirt 110
Diesel black washed Quartt jeans 200
Donald Pliner shoes 265
Hickey Freeman plaid
cashmere sport coat 1,895
Hiltl cotton corduroy slacks 225
Zegna sport shirt 335
Raffi sweater 195
fashion
by ba rba r a e. cohen
tweed
To the Manor Born
Tweed is a Fabric Fit for Kings—and Kings of Commerce
A
American businessmen are sometimes put off by the tweedy, flecked, or speck-
led sport jacket because it is the uniform of a certain kind of pipe-smoking college
English lit prof. But academics love the tweed sport coat for a reason, and the heath-
The woolen yarns used in the fabric’s
manufacture assure tweed’s durabili-
ery textile deserves a place in every man’s wardrobe.
ty. The comfort of a tweed garment
derives from the plain or twill weave
structure as well as from the fuller cut
Embrace the fleck
Tweed—a nubby-textured, durable fabric perfect for sport coats, overcoats, and
trousers—maintains its strong association with the English gentry. His Royal
typical of tweed jackets, coats, and
pants. Tweeds are easily identifiable
by their simple checked or herringbone patterns and soft color gradations due to the use of multiple strands
Highness the Duke of Windsor embraced tweeds as a distinctly English product,
of plied, or twisted, yarns.
While an entire suit of tweed might give
drawing on the tradition of English kings and queens wearing Scottish- and Irishmanufactured tweed garments at their country places, such as Balmoral Castle.
Tweeds are popular from the bogs of Scotland to the boardrooms of America
rise to rumors about your having inherited a country estate, a two- or threebutton sport coat (elbow patches
optional) of this easy-care fabric makes
a great substitute for the ubiquitous
because garments made of these soft, flexible woolen fabrics retain their shape
blue blazer. For the office, tweeds come
in a wide range of earthy colors that
well through many years of wear. Hunters, hikers, and horsemen don tweeds
pair well with business casual attire,
such as khakis, jeans, and flat-front
because the fabric handles inclement weather and rough use with minimal pilling or
dress pants in neutral shades of brown,
gray, or black. Best of all, tweeds mix
thinning. Furthermore, the fabric has a natural resistance to stains thanks to wool’s
and match with a wide range of
striped, windowpane, or tattersall-
natural oils.
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checked shirtings.
CONVERSE INTELLIGENTLY. DRESS SMARTLY.
Your clothes, like your words,
should be chosen carefully.
And nowhere will you find more
stylish options for your careful
consideration than here.
Nordstrom opening September 19! More choices with more new stores now open—BOSE and Teavana!
And coming this November—Burberry! More choices in addition to your favorites—Abercrombie & Fitch,
Anthropologie, Apple, BCBGMAXAZRIA, Crate & Barrell, Raleigh Limited, Royal Gallery of Rugs,
Saks Fifth Avenue, Sony Style, and Tiffany & Co. Exit Keystone (south) off I-465. Located at the intersection
of 86th Street and Keystone Avenue. Shopping Line 317.574.4000.
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fashion
Untangle tweed’s authenticity
Tweed has a murky history. The name tweed comes either from a strong association with the River Tweed in Scotland or is a corruption of the Scottish word tweel, or
“twill.” At least since 1831, the name has been attached to a group of rugged woolen
fabrics handwoven in Scotland and Donegal, Ireland, using only premium wool spun
from British or Irish sheep.
For the best quality, look for tweed fabrics with authenticity labels. For example,
garments made from genuine Harris Tweed, a trademarked fabric from northern
Scotland, will carry the Harris Tweed Authority’s label.
By law, Harris Tweed is handwoven on traditional looms by crofters working on the
Isles of Harris, Lewis, Uist, and Barra in the Outer Hebrides, using local—often handspin or hand-dyed—virgin wool. Harris Tweed weavers recently began producing a
thinner fabric perfect for less-bulky versions of traditional garments. Another choice
is Donegal tweed, also a handwoven twill of hand-spun yarns, but manufactured in
County Donegal, Ireland.
Lightweight tweeds are ideal for spring
and autumn wear, while heavier, traditional wool tweeds remain a staple for
outdoor sports or commuting to and
from work. Tweeds also turn up in
women’s fashion inspired by menswear,
such as the trouser suit.
tweed
From high fashion to high function
Coco Chanel elevated tweed fabrics, previously restricted to the shops of
Britain’s bespoke tailors, from country fields to couturier runways. She paved the
way for tweed’s acceptance by ready-to-wear designers such as Max Mara, Jigsaw,
Wallis, Aquascutum, and Burberry.
If this all sounds a little high-minded for what is essentially a rough-and-tumble
fabric, consider that many tweeds of lesser pedigree have similar qualities of comfort
and durability. Asian cloth manufacturers can reproduce tweed-inspired fabrics on
commercial looms with commercially spun yarns. But beware tweeds with drastically lower price tags because a garment’s lasting value will be directly related to the
quality of the wool yarns in the fabric.
Although weather once determined this fabric’s popularity, tweeds aren’t just for
outwear in the coldest or wettest months anymore.
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raleigh limited magazine
photos courtesy of CG
Best of all, tweed garments are usually
cut in traditional styles that can be worn
for years without looking dated, a bonus
considering the fabric’s long-wearing
capability. Don tweeds and prepare to
be judged both noble and wise.
w w w. l a c o s t e . c o m
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