SARDINIA - Sardegna Turismo

PRODUCED BY LONELY PLANET PER
w w w. s a rd e g n a t u r i s m o. i t
AUTONOMOUS REGION OF SARDINIA
OFFICE FOR TOURISM, CRAFTS AND COMMERCE
SARDINIA
20 UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES
SARDINIA 20 UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES
2. Gorroppu Gorge
How can you describe such a magical, mesmerizing, spectacular and imposing place?
Let’s try like this: a ravine flanked by limestone walls up to 400m (1,312 feet) high where
you can climb, and scattered with boulders and heaps of rocks along which you can walk – at
times following the course of a river, at times entering holm-oak forests – and finally reach its
mouth. And what else is there to add to convey how removed from space and time you feel
here? Does the fact that it is called the Grand Canyon of Europe give you an idea?
At any rate, it cannot be expressed with words and you need to go see for yourself.
2
1. Orosei Gulf
Such enchantment this breathtaking
half-moon, etched into the center
of the western coast of the island, with
the high Gennargentu Mountains
that plummet abruptly into the sea,
spectacular cliffs interspersed with
inlets, dotted with small bays hidden
in the shape of a horseshoe and lapped
by cobalt blue waters. Catch sight of
the views from the paths traced among
the scented bushes of Mediterranean
scrub; what an adventure to explore
the sea caves by kayak, how superb the
summer is on the wide and immaculate
beaches bordered with eucalyptus
and pine trees!
1
SARDINIA 20 UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES
3. Cagliari
African palm trees, Mediterranean sunlight and romantic promenades are the first cards that Cagliari has to play. Discover the first one
under the arcades of Marina, in front of the harbor, from where you go up the maze of alleys, squares, trattorias, steps, museums, domes
and ocher-colored façades that rise to Castelllo, where you will discover the second card as you are caressed by a golden sunset.
The third one, instead, is unveiled by the neighborhoods of Stampace and Villanova. And only when the city no longer has secrets will
you set out for Poetto: a very long strip of sand that runs between a transparent sea and a pink pond framed by flamingos in flight.
3
4
4. The Other Royal Cities
For those in search of an elusive Spanish atmosphere, there are Alghero and Iglesias; the
first, a former Catalan colony – Catalan is still spoken today – with its historical medieval
center intact, and the second, with its Aragonese style and the skeletons of the mines
surrounding the area. Whoever wants to bring an easel and a palette of colors to the river
should set his sights on Bosa: pastel-colored houses set against a steep hill with a castle on
the top, and fishermen’s boats pitching in the Temo River. For those who are after scenic
views, there is Castelsardo, which clings onto a rocky spur facing the sea. And for those
searching for an urban center instead, there’s the stately Oristano and the authentic
Sassari. All these listed above, along with Cagliari, constitute the royal cities of the island, a
title obtained under Spanish rule.
SARDINIA 20 UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES
5. The Coastal Towers
Although there are a lot less than the 205 coastal towers listed in historical documents, you’ll still catch a glimpse of
many of them between a colorful beach umbrella and a dune sculpted by the northwest wind. Their purpose was to
sight all those enemies who – from the early Middle Ages until the mid-nineteenth century – threatened the
vulnerable island, decidedly exposed to pirate and corsair attacks there in the center of the Mediterranean Sea. They
were also used to communicate any imminent danger by using fire and smoke signals or horns and bells. Today you
can find them in many strategic points along the coast, especially near the gulfs: Cagliari, Capoterra, Chia Bay,
Villasimius, Porto Pino, Alghero, Stintino, Bari Sardo…
5
6. Nuraghi
and the Tombs
of the Giants
There is a millenary story to be told, and even
to be touched, in Sardinia. Because, with all its
architectural remains, the Bronze Age is still
manifest. Menhirs, dolmens, domus de janas
7
(‘fairy houses’ – tombs carved into rock),
sacred wells, the tombs of the giants and,
7. Lame d’autore (Craftsman’s Blades)
above all, nuraghi: there are in fact 700 of these
rock towers scattered throughout the island
(not counting the ones that might yet be
So It is. The precious Sardinian knives are described as ‘d’autore’ because there is only a very small group of artisans
discovered). Did they use to be defensive sites?
remaining who use traditional processing to mold and temper the steel of the blade and to sculpt the handle
Sacred places? Meeting places for the
carved out of a mouflon horn. Do you want one too? You’ll surely find them in some workshop in Pattada (where
community? It’s not known for sure and the
sa pattadesa is crafted), in Arbus (where s’arburesa is crafted), in Tempio Pausania (where sa limetta is crafted) and
debate is open. Get an idea by visiting those
best preserved: among the most renowned are
Su Nuraxi, Nuraghe Losa and Santu Antine.
6
in Santu Lussurgiu. A piece of advice? Beware of knives that cost less than €10 per centimeter and those
with a handle made of two parts screwed to each other: they are imitations.
SARDINIA 20 UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES
8. Ghost Towns
Are you one of those who have a thrill from getting into a car to go searching for
a ghost town? Then you’re in the right place, because even Sardinia can give you
the shivers! Gairo Vecchio, for example, with its dilapidated stone houses overlooking
unpaved and cobblestone alleys, is very unsettling. And Lollove, with its houses
and ruins unchanged throughout the centuries, is no less so. Not to mention Rebeccu;
a windswept medieval village dug into limestone rock, today almost entirely
abandoned. No need to worry, however, about Tratalias – which, despite having been
abandoned in the ’50s, has been restored and is now a museum center.
8
9
9. Mountain Hamlets
Are you lost in the middle of nowhere? Did you get out of your car on the top of a height and can’t glimpse any trace of civilization
as far as the horizon? You don’t have a map, the navigator isn’t working, and there are only a few cows out to pasture alongside
the road? Well, be aware that you are in the wild provinces of Barbagia and Ogliastra. So take the wheel again and carry on, because
it’s very likely that a small hamlet surrounded by mountains and high cliffs will appear right behind the ridge. It doesn’t matter
whether it’s Orgosolo, Ulassai, Aritzo or Fonni; this itinerary will still remain one of the most memorable adventures of your trip.
10
SARDINIA 20 UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES
10. Asinara
National
Park and
Protected
Marine Areas
11
Sail from the ports of Stintino
and Porto Torres. We suggest that
you lighten your luggage, because
you will need to be agile to paddle
as far as Cala d’Oliva or jump out of
a Jeep on the pristine Isola
dell’Asinara (Donkey Island); you will
need to be capable in order to take
a quick picture of an albino donkey
or a peregrine falcon; you will need
to be comfortable to take part in a
fishing trip with nets or fish traps,
or to go horse riding; you will need
to be ready to wear only a wetsuit
and oxygen tanks to dive and
explore the seabed, but, most of all,
you will need to be light in order
to jump from thrills to enchantment.
And, besides Asinara, there are five
other protected marine areas
in Sardinia: Sinis Peninsula, Capo
Caccia, Tavolara, Capo Carbonara
and the International Marine
Mammal Sanctuary.
11. Lanaittu Valley and Tiscali
In this case, you will find yourself breathless twice. The first time in the enchanting
Lanaittu Valley, narrow and 7 kilometers (4.35 miles) long, dominated by imposing
peaks, limestone walls and caves, scattered with archeological wonders, dotted
with rosemary bushes and mastic trees, and inhabited by wild boars, goats and
birds of prey. The second time in the karstic doline sunken into a mountain
overlooking the valley, where the mysterious and inaccessible Nuraghic village of
Tiscali is hidden; it was utilized as a refuge until the 2nd century B.C.. There is
something magical about the setting with ruins scattered randomly among holm
oaks and terebinth trees; you will be moved, no doubt about it.
SARDINIA 20 UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES
12. Delicacies for Foodies
From the bread (coccoi, civraxu and carasau) to bread-based dishes (like pane frattau – flatbread layers with tomato sauce,
pecorino cheese and poached egg – and zuppa gallurese – broth-soaked bread dish with cheese), from cheeses (ripe or fresh
pecorini and casu marzu – pungent sheep cheese) to insaccati (such as the typical sausage), from dry pasta (shell-shaped
malloreddus) to fresh pasta (stuffed culurgiones and ravioli), from main courses of meat (mainly porceddu – suckling pig – to lamb
and kid) to those of fish (shellfish, tuna, seafood and mullet), from cheese-based sweets (like seadas – light pastry filled
with cheese and covered with honey – and pardule – pastries with ricotta filling) to hard sweets (made from almonds and honey),
from wines (among the whites, Vermentino, and among the reds, Cannonau) to liqueurs (the berry-based mirto and filu ‘e ferru –
the “iron wire” – similar to grappa). Where do you want to start from?
12
13
13. Must-See Beaches
Let’s start from the north. Towards the east there’s
the Maddalena Archipelago, framed by a myriad of pink
granite cliffs and rocks, where you’ll choose the Beach
of Cavalieri, and towards the west, the spectacular Stintino,
with its sinuous dunes shaped by the wind. Moving on to
the eastern coast, enjoy the indescribable beauty of Orosei
Gulf from a boat, and plunge into the waters of Cala Luna.
On the western coast, focus instead on the wild Costa Verde,
a real miniature desert of fossil and shifting dunes, then head
towards Piscinas. Finally we’re in the south, where you have
a choice: Villasimius or Chia? Be resourceful and make sure
to reach all of their charming and countless beaches.
SARDINIA 20 UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES
14. Arts and crafts
During your trip, you will happen to run into a woman, sitting outside her front door, intent on making wicker baskets
by hand (as in Castelsardo); into a laboratory where bedspreads, towels, curtains and rugs are produced with
traditional looms (as in Aggius, Tempio, Mògoro, Barisardo and Cuglieri); into a workshop crammed with trays, tops
and other objects made from cork (as in Tempio Pausania); into the shop of a knife artisan (as in Pattada and Arbus);
into a jeweller’s shop resplendent with refined filigree set next to coral (as in Alghero); and finally into the windows
displaying colorful pottery (as in Santa Teresa, Palau, Olbia). Who knows what you’ll pack into your suitcase…
14
15. In Quest
of Mines
Picturesque mining villages, either abandoned or
16
converted, extraction pits, miles and miles
of tunnels, industrial plants, washing tanks,
old railways and precious documental archives
16. Festivals and Folklore
make the island an enormous cultural deposit –
surreal at times – worth discovering. Direct your
attention to the Geomineral Historical and
Environmental Park of Sardinia and start taking
Do you like headlong horse races? Go to the Ardia of Sedilo. Do you prefer an unhurried parade of decked
notes on your map for the tiny Cala dell’Argentiera,
out carts and traditional costumes? Then go for the Festival of Sant’Efisio in Cagliari. Or maybe you’re enchanted
the Coal Mine of Serbariu, the Village of Nebida,
by ritual investitures and medieval tournaments? In that case, Oristano is the place you want to be, during Carnival,
Porto Flavia… We’re looking
at 3455 sq km(2146.84 sq mi) spread over an area
of 81 townships, so there’s no time to waste!
for the Sartiglia and the equestrian acrobatics performed on pairs of horses. Do you love exuberant traditional
15
festivals with parades, music and dances? Then the Feast of the Redeemer in Nuoro is the place for you. And it
doesn’t end here, because Sardinia has a very full schedule of events. Keep up-to-date.
SARDINIA 20 UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES
17. The Minor Islands (San Pietro,
La Maddalena, Tavolara)
There are three of them, and all spectacular. The Island of San Pietro for its high and rocky
coastline, for the annual appointment with the tuna slaughter and the Girotonno festival,
for the exoticism of the tabarkino dialect spoken by its inhabitants of Genoese origin, and
for the Mediterranean graciousness of Carloforte. La Maddalena for the elegance of its
squares, for its holiday atmosphere, for the sapphire-colored sea teeming with marine life.
Tavolara because it rises majestically from the middle of the sea, magnificent and rocky;
for diving among the limestone spires of the Shoal of the Pope, for the white sand of the
beaches and the high and steep cliffs.
17
18
18. The 10 Best Diving Sites
In the north there’s Capo Testa, in the headland of Santa Teresa di Gallura, and the Maddalena Archipelago. In the east there’s Orosei
Gulf, with myriads of hidden caves spread underneath the cliffs, the Bue Marino among them. In the south there is the Protected
Marine Area of Capo Carbonara, which includes the Islands of Cavoli and Serpentara, with the mysterious shipwreck of the Romagna
in Capitana, and with the Santa Caterina shoal. In the west, there are the islands of San Pietro and Sant’Antioco, among tuna-fishing
nets, relics and statues, and there is Alghero, with effusive rocks and undersea meadows of Posidonia seagrass. Sardinia, with its 1897
kilometers (1178.74 miles) of coastline, is a divers’ paradise. What are you waiting for to plunge in?
SARDINIA 20 UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES
20. Itineraries of the Spirit
The spirituality of Sardinia is like a very tight weave that intertwines with
history, culture and territory, and which you can’t disregard if you want
to get to know this land thoroughly. We suggest, therefore, that you unravel
a thread and follow it: it could take you to the very rich heritage of 941
religious celebrations, including the rites of Holy Week and the St. Anthony
Day fireworks; or to the Romanesque churches of Saccargia, Borutta and
Galtellì, and wind through the little known and authentic inland villages;
or maybe go through the mining sites of Nebida and Masua and the nuraghi.
Or follow a path, or a pilgrimage…
20
19
19. Autumn in Barbagia
So many ideas and so much to choose from during the program of events of Autumn in Barbagia, which – from September
to December – offers cheese making workshops, exhibitions, evening musical events, samplings and scores of other events spread
throughout 28 mountain towns. A unique opportunity to discover traditions, arts and crafts handed down from generation
to generation, and to get to know the true essence of numerous towns that unlock the doors to their museums, monuments and
even houses , in whose cortes apertas (open courtyards)proper banquets are laid out featuring local specialties. You are all invited!