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his summer, Montr6al's Gay Village offered its customary seasonal flourish with the retum of
"Le Projet de Boules Roses,"
artist Claude Cromier's annual stringing of "Pink Balls" above
a
kilometer-plus long stretch of Sainte-Catherine Street. Part
of
the armual May to September Aires Libres public art event, the
installation featured 200,000 balls this year, up from 170,000.
With Sainte-Catherine Street closed to vehicular traffic befween SaintHubert to Papineau, the enhanced pink canopy provided its usual ambassadorial welcome to the summer surge of gay tourists enjoying the Village's
"The Village has been dealing with a sustained crime wave, mostly ffom
nearby itinerant drug-users, which has finally calmed down thanks to
increased police patrols introduced last year," he began. Another issue has
been the shuttering en masse of the nightlife complexes that dominated the
Village scene since the 80s. 'Al1 the huge clubs have gone, including Le
Drugstore, Gotha Lounge, Parking Nightclub, and Java U," continued Bugs.
"Last year's closing of the multi-level Bourbon, or 'gay Disneyland' as I
called it, was the end of an era."
The latest whammy was the folding this February of Divers/Cit6, Mon-
clubs, outdoor patios, restaurants, bars, shops, and other establishments.
According to Community Marketing Inc.'s 2014 LGBT Tourism & Hospitality Survey, Montreal is an equal favorite alongside Toronto and Vancouver for gay travelers from the US, with Canada heading the list ofpreferred
tr6a13 original Pride organization.
international destinations.
itics here forever."
All would
seem swell
in the heart of one of the world's most popular
"In 1990, the police raided the queer Sex Garage 1oft party, following
which they beat and arrested some 400 LGBT protestors," said Bugs. "That
was Montr6al's Stonewall, 25 years ago this summer, and it changed gay polStarting with an unprecedented mass march through downtown, the ensu-
directly to the creation of the two gay festivals that would
accelerate the evolution of the Village while putting Montr6al on the global
LGBT tourism destinations, n'est-ce pas?Well, not completely. As publicized
earlier this year by the Montrtal Gazette, the Village has been experiencing
ing movement
off-season blues for some time.
LGBT tourism map: Black
Divers/Cit6 in 1993.
In keeping with the general hend of these technological times, the Internet is reportedly to blame, as Montr6al's younger gay crowd steers toward
1ed
&
Blue
in
1991 (more on that later) and
In its heyday, Divers/Cit6 was all the rage, with its signature Mascara drag
mobile dating applications instead of hitting the Village's bars and clubs. As
I learned from renowned Montr6al journalist Richard "Bugs" Bumett, how-
ball, hosted by Montr6al drag icon Mado Lamotte, attracting upwards of
ever, there is more to the story.
sons including declining attendance and revenues, Divers/Citd spun off from
Pride and rebranded as a queer arts and cultural festival," says Bugs. "That
change in focus, format, and spirit is really when Divers/Cit6 died."
Bugs chronicles Canadian and global LGBT life as a nationally syndicated columnist for the Gazette, Canadian LGBT publications Fagues andXtra!,
and his self-syndicated Three Dollar Bill blog. Also a pop culture radio personaliry he has made his name calling out hypocrisy and homophobia, earning himself death threats along with high praise and the tag of "Canada's bad
boy syndicated gay columnist."
Over coffee in the lobby of Hotel Gault, my boutique base in Old Montr6al during my recent four-day visit, Bugs shared some eye-opening insight
into recent developments on the Monh6al LGBT scene.
25,000 revelers at its height. "The party kept rolling until 2006, when for rea-
Does all of this mean a flagging of Montr6al's rainbow-colored joie de
vivre? Far ffom it.
Last month's Pride celebration, with the rainbow flag's third color of yellow as its "light and energy" theme, may have been sponsored by Magra, but
it needed little help in the jubilance department. For younger revelers unaware
of the Sex Garage incident and its milestone precedence in the evolution of
LGBT Montr6al, education was served by a rare exhibition of images from
Canadian photographer Linda Dawn Hammond, who bravely documented the
violence
as the
police removed their name badges and swung their batons.
Those sober notes aside, the exuberance
ofthe 2015 edition ofMontr6al
Pride (or Fiert6 Montrdal, which took over in 2007) reaffirmed Montr6al's
place as one of the hottest gay destinations on the planet. While the Mllage
seeks reinvention, that appeal includes a wider field of social and cultural
options than ever before.
"I
think we will see new establishments breathe fresh air and bring
renewed life to the Mllage, which remains the heart and soul of LGBT life in
Monh6a1," says Bugs, citing this spring's relaunch of the former Club Apol-
lon as Code. "That sai4 the gay community is spreading its wings to new
locales around the city."
As I would discover on my recent visit, those wings are reaching some
unexpected corners.
rom Bugs it was over to Carrie MacPherson, founding partner and edi-
tor in chief of Zurbaines.com, an online resource for "Montr6al
women who want to know what's hot in their city." Also serving as
social media coordinator for iconic Canadian 1uxury fashion retailer Holt
Renfrew and freelancer editor and tour guide forTourisme Montr6al, she took
me on a morning drive around the Mile End area and its fringes, all emerg-
ing LGBT draws.
"Montr6al's LGBT scene is no longer restricted solely to the Village," she
confirmed over cappuccino and St. Viateur bagels outside at Italian cafe Club
Social. "You can find a growing number of LGBTfriendly spots in new
queer-centric haunts such as here in the Mile End, along with Little Italy,
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PASSPOFT
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SEPTEMBER2O15
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"I think
we will see new establishments breathe fresh air and bring
renewed life to the Village, which remains the heart
and soul of LGBT life in Montr6al."
After strolling through Marchd Jean-Talon, the landmark "people's
market" frorn 1933, we wheeled around Little Italy, where nearby queerfriendly Felix Bar offers cabaret. comedy, and dance parties, and then
Mile-Ex, an offbeat post-industrial enclave hidden away between Mile
End and Parc Ex.
Along with artists, galleries. and hipster barbers, pioneering restauateurs
and bar owners are filling the void. Among the compelling coordinates is
AfexandraplatzBar, a seasonal queer-owned beer garden in an o1d garage
ile End is pan ofthe broader Plateau neighborhood the historic dis-
trict footing the eastem slopes of Montr6al's in-city
The hearl of legendary Saint Laurent Boulevard oq "The Main," runs
through here. Lined with ethnic eateries, vintage boutiques, bric-a-brac shops,
movie theaters both avanfgarde (Excentris) and adult (Cinema LiAmour), toy
stores, art galleries, and more, this historic immigrant thoroughfare, established
in
reviewed for its menu
communities, invites leisurely exploration.
Triple Crown,
a takeout counter from native Kentuckian
of
diversions for LGBT travelers.
by the loading dock of a local breu'ery'. Dining choices include Manitoba, rave
of foraged ingredients and wild game, and Dinette
mountain,
Mont-Royal. Hyper-trendy in parts, Le Plateau offers a range
1792 as the dividing line between the city's French- and English-speaking
Colin Perry where
There's no rainbow flag at 4175 Saint-Laurent Boulevard, but behind the
diners are served fried chicken and other Southern fare in nicnic baskets for
non-descript, graffiti covered door and curtain beyond awaits the seductive fun
enjoying in the nearby park.
of Big in Japan. Featuring Japanese whiskey bottles suspended liom the ceil-
We lunched at Mile-Ex. rihere French-born Chef-Owner Gr6gory Paul
invited me to the grill as he prepared his signature "squid ro11 merguez."
ing, this candlelit speakeasy-style bar, serving appetizers, sake, and other cor-
Inspired by "le street food" he discovered while working in LA, Paul's squidwrapped hot dog, topped s ith ss eet-sour relish, is sex in a toasted bun. Other
chalkboard highlights at this cozi refuge include the M***fer Burger, while
Nearby, The Wiggle Room is a "tranns-cendent" vaudeville-inspired spot
for burlesque and variety shows from performers including Montr6a13 own
dessert was G-rated ice cream cones sen ed through a side window
dials, is among the district's hot draws.
Tranna Wintour.
The
\lain
is also home to
MURAL, an 1l-day fiee festival featuring exhi-
"From bowling to lir e mu-ric to dance clubs (see sidebar), Mile End and its
bitions. t-ood music. and the star attraction, local and intemational aftists trans-
definiieh sainins in popularity with a concentration of social.
dining, and nightlife chtrices itrr rhe rounger LGBT set," said MacPherson.
fbrming buildins sides into mind-bending works of art. Following the third edititrn o: :he tesrrral this June, finding and photographing the many beguiling
neighbors are
SEPTEIVBEB
'lflr
liiiliirtilllr
2015
I
*as *m* *heq,S !m *r*nirr,:,
works adorning Saint-Laurent and Le Plateau's parking lots, allewa1s. and
the hearl of yesteryear redJight Montr6al. Still holding court ffom Sin City days
back streets makes for absorbing hunting.
is trans-liiendly Caf6 Cl6opatra, the legendary strip (locally, peeler)
joint for
an old-school haunt with enduring glam appeal. Evolving through incarnations
drag performances, fetish parties, and burlesque shows. Adjacent to Le Club
Soda (1980), other heirlooms include MidwayTavern (1927) and hot dog haven
including Latin music club to srip club, this LGBTwelcoming venue features
Montr6al Pool Room (1912).
Located on Parc Avenue on the edge ofthe Plateau, Cabaret Plal'house is
Down the block is the Society for Arts and Technologies (SAT), where I
Mtkong an absorbing experience in experimental theater inside
an eclectic range of live music acts on its intimate stage.
Montr6al's biggest stages, meanwhile, are found between Le Plateau and
downtown in the Quartier des spectacles, the cift cultural heart for more than
SAf
a century
ed a large bed, fumishings, and flickering
enjoyed Rouge
's massive
rooftop Satosphere dome. Free to move about a set that includ-
T!
we were both audience and par-
Arts is home to renorvned venues such as
ticipants as the show's cinematic narrative was projected on the inside of the
dome. Approached, wordlessly, by one of the lingerie-clad actresses "imbedded" in the show, we slipped into an arousing slow dance. Also on the top floor
the 2, 100-seat Maison Slmphonique de Montr6al and intimate Cinquieme Salle.
is SAI's eclectic Labo Culinaire, or Foodlab, an open-plan kitchen with outdoor
Entertaining street performers are a regular sight during the summer, while
dining options abound, including casual concepts from two of Montr6al's culi-
deck where I enjoyed a cold beer with the lively crowd gathered there.
With its vast open-air Esplanade drawing some three million revelers each
year during major happenings such as the Montr6al Intemational JazzFestival
and the FrancoFolies, La Place des
ChAteaux Normand Laprise and Carlos Fer-
While I was not especially sulprised to find LGBT Montr6ai migrating in
the general direction of the Plateau and Mile En4 what would prove truly
reira. Renowned for his fine-dining Toque!, Laprise offers Brasserie T!, while
remarkable was the growing movement into the previously uncharled territory
Ferreira, famed for his family-run Ferreira Cafe, delivers petiscos (Pottuguese
of the city's Sud-Ouest (Southwest) neighborhoods.
narJ stars, Grand Chef Relais
small dishes) at Taveme
&
F.
Offering year-round enterlainment in all artistic disciplines, the Quatlier's
30-plus performance venues include Metropolis. Founded in I 884 as a skating
rink, this 2,300-seat, two-tiered venue and its cabarefstyle annex is known as
the "cat with nine lives" for multiple prior incarnations including opera house,
adult cinema. and disco.
The venue is right by the intersection of Saint-Laurent and Sainte Catherine,
ON THE SCENE WITH
CARRIE MACPHERSON
Montr6al fashion maven and social whirlwind Carrie MacPherson
is savvy to the city's expanding LGBT universe. "Thanks to local
LGBT entrepreneurs in Mile End and other new queer-centric boroughs, the LGBT community no longer feels confined in the Village," she says.
For first-time LGBT visitors, MacPherson recommends Spade
& Palacio (www.spadeandpalacio,com), a new tour company
run by gay and lesbian duo Daniel Spade and Anne-Marie Palacio
'who truly have the pulse of alternative LGBT Montr6al."
Focusing on Mile End and its surrounding neighborhoods, her
(wwwdepanneurlepickup.com). Featuring an antique lunch counter and back patio, this
casual diner (literally, "the pick-up corner store") attracts a mix of
F&B picks include D6panneur Le Pick-Up
artists and "local meat packers and mechanics" for brunch, dinner,
and casual fare.
Notre Dame des Quilles
(wwwfacebook.com/
notredamedesquilles), or "Our lady of the bowling pins" is a
vintage bowling alley turned watering hole with one lane
still open, while at Mid-Century style Brasserie Harricana
I
I
it
(www.brasserieharricana.com), highlights include vegan poutine
'l
and brass-tao beer.
For live music and
entedainment, MacPherson likes
RiE PDB (www.barleritzpdb.com); siblings Casa del Popolo
(www.casadelpopolo.com)
and La Sala
Rossa
(www.lasalarossa.com); and Divan Orange (www.divanorange.org).
Jeff Heilman
I
A
A
n enclave for the Irish immigrants who built much of Montr6al's early
loth-..ntury infrastmcture, including the national landmark Lachine
\Canal (1825). Sud-Ouest\ once-gririy Criffintown is experiencing
major mixed-use revival.
Bordering Old Montr6al, the neighborhood now lures visitors with
FoundryArt Centre. Updating a historic
foundry complex, the venue mixes exhibition space with artists' studios
and dining at Le Serpent.
Part ofthe three-restaurant group incorporating Old Montr6al's celebrated
attractions such as the Darling
Club Chasse et P0che and Plateau hotspot Le Filet, this expansive industrialchic space, named for the foundry's former "depollution" pipe, is a hot draw for
cocktails and ltalian-inspired delicacies such as raw fish, quail, and rabbit.
Wth the new ALT Hotel Monh6al providing a ready local base within walking distance of the Lachine Canal and its multi-use path, Griffintown is also
home to LGB'Lfriendly nightclub Mademoiselle Butterfly. Announcing its
March 201 5 opening with 'And you thought the gays were only on St-Catherine
Street," the club celebrates diversity with Famous Sundays and other parties.
Following Notre-Dame Ouest, the main thoroughfare connecting the SudOuest neighborhoods and one of the ciry's oldest streets, then comes Little Burgundy, another smokestack-era bastion that was once the center ofblack Montr6al
and famed for itsjazz. Popular today for its historic fagades, antique shops, and
live performance venue Corona Theatre, a vintage 1912 movie hall, Little Burgundy is also home to sibling restaurants Joe Beefand Liverpool House, the former ranked among the world's top 100 restaurants.
Next along is SainfHenri. Home to the art deco classic Atwater Market,
another one of Montr6al's historic public markets from 1933, this buzzing former working-class neighborhood is where parhers Peter Saunders and Sophie
Ouellet, the chefs, and Claudie
PASSPORT
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SEPTEMBEB 20]5
offer an eclectic blend of flavors at their
Bom and raised in Dublin, Irelan4 Saunders fell in love with Montr6al and
became a permanent Canadian resident. After meeting him and his pattner at
Le Serpent, he had invited me to check out the restaurant, an acronlirn for
"Exha Virgin Olive Oil." The trek was handsomely rewarded, with highlights
including the frozen cherry with pine dust; roasted squash with duck pastrami
and homemade ricotta; and saddle of rabbit with bacon. Joining me for this
wonderdrl meal were the two women leaders of IMAGE+NATION, Canada's
oldest LGBT
film festival.
Over wine and many laughs, Charlie Boudreau, executive director, and
Katharine Setzer, director of programming, previewed the festival's 28th edition, taking place in November.
56
Haley
restaurant EVOO.
. -!'
...:
'As we look to expand our rea.-:. -r::; ::.:: -ence )'ear-roun{ our philosophy
is to move away from doom and gi!r!r:r'..
::l
ti.cus more on humanity and pos-
itive stories taken from real life.' er.rl::-:c S:rzer. "By opening up socially
and ideologically to build more a\\ arenesi end hnng more people into the dis-
cussion." said Boudreau, "it's about redeiinins uhat an LGBT
film festival
can achieve."
That's an apt metaphor for the chansins tace of getting "out and about" in
Montr6al. Not long ago, Saint Henri r.rould har e been considered a daring des-
tination for development, LGBT or othe$ ise. \iou. dramatically signaling the
expanding frontiers, there's even a gay club in \ierdun. rvest of Saint Henri on
the island of Montr6al: Lounge Musique et Danse. featuring men in high heels
in the weekend "Gogo's Sharp Heels" dance show.
c
E
ack in the cifz proper, the Montr6al party is still going strong. With
Divers/Cit6 now retired after 22 years, its older sibling, Black & Blue,
I
celebrates its 25th anniversary this October with the theme "lnspiration
o
Metropolis." Produced by LGBT community and AIDS supporl organization Bad
co
a
Boy Club Montreal Foundation, the weekJong program includes staples slrch as
Bal en Cuir, the festival's official leather event, and Bears & Friends. Scheduled
for the Pierre-Charbonneau Amphitheatre in Olyrnpic Park, the legendary allnight main pady
will feature Fritz Lang's
1927 mastelpiece Metropolis, a "silent
disco." and other entertainment.
Also turning 25 this year is the sumrnerlime St-Ambroise Montr6al Fringe
Festival, one ofthe highlight events on Montreal's powerhouse year-round festival calendar. Others include
MUTEK, the internationally renowned showcase of
Heritage re-use has transformed Old Montreal ttor:r c:',..- r,
.i- ':
fully updates Second Empire exteriors and orisir:al .'::. ::::.-:, -r':larswithindustrialchic.Throughhi,uhFrenchuind..r,,..ir.i.r:
:-: cious and solidly comforlable fourlh-floor comer
apan::ri:: .i r:i
with a king bed and large tub among the lururies.
Housed in a fbrmer bank, LHotel is a "boutique horei-
t.-<--
original works from the likes of Andy Warhol and Rov Lichte:',.:.'L::
ular Picnic Elektronik, the DJ'd outdoor dance party held Sundays at Jsan-Dra-
and guest rooms. Th6dtre St-James is an event spacc updatrng
stage for Montr6al's globally preeminent, month-long
International Fireworks
Competition, plus outcloor activities including lazing on Jean-Dore Beach and
cycling on Montr6al's Formula I Grand Prix track.
--:
- -...-
:, : : ,- . --
electronic music, visuals, and digital art founded here in 2000, and LCBTrpoppeau Parc. Situated on two islands in the St. Lawrence River, the park is also the
---'
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draw.Bui1tasateXtileheadquar1ersinl87l.nl\hole].:]::.:-:'.l
::
..-
-
--:f *.'-Corinthian-colurnned Canadian Bank of Commerce building: thc a-t-::- PHI
Centre transformed an I 861 building into a hightech ccnter fbr an: rd :r-,.' :
Montr6al Stock Exchange Building houses the Centaur Theatre Companr.
long-time home of English-speaking thcatre in Quebec.
And what about the Village? Aftcr exploring all the alternatires.
I
Looking ahead anticipation is building for Montreal's 375th birthday celebration in 2017. Among $15 million in announced anniversary projects are a
intrigued to discover what was happening under that canopy ofextra pink balls.
beach on the St. Lawrence River in Verclun, new cafe-terrasses at Place Jacques-
According to one Village merchant interviewed by the Gazette,winter tirne busi-
ua-:
Cartieq plus massive multimedia light shows and projections frorn Montr6al-
ness "gets worse every year." Another voiced his belief that while the Village
based special-effects wizards Moment Factory.
"will
Also mark your calendars for what promises to be
a command perfbnnance
for the 375th anniversary: the inaugural Canada Pride parade and festival.
Hosted by Fierte Montr6al. the celebration, modeled after EuroPride and
WorldPride, hopes to drarv one million people.
;f^! etting around the citv is easy for visitors, whether it's waking, riding a
(BIXI Bikes. born here and they have rental stations everyt 1-bicvcle
where). or taking the Metro, Montr6al is a city-wide proposition with
\J
diverse attractions to spare.
With its fagade of translucent multi-cqlored glass and "Lipstick Forest" of
52 pink concrete trees (also liom Claude Corrnier) worth the visit alone, Palais
des Congrds, Montr6al's convention center, is hosting the world premiere
of
"Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel: The Exhibition" through October 24,2015.
stay predominantly gay
for some time, it needs to attract more people to
live and work in the area and for entrcpreneurs to invest in more thanjust clubs."
Mindful of these words, I found the neighborhood in full swing. Legendary institutions Campus, the male peeler bar described by Bugs as "a
favorite of locals and celebrities alike, if you enjoy cold beers and hot
cocks!" and adjacent Cabaret Mado are still going strong, as visitors
thronged Saint-Catherine and the outdoor patios. With its gorgeous minimalist d6cor, Stereo Bar still keeps its promise of"pure dance floor ecstasy," while dining draws include vintage-style Comptoir 2l (also in Mile End
and Verdun) for poutine and other comfort foods, and ever-popular Saloon
for soaking up martinis and the outdoor scene. Reassuring, too, was the visible police presence, both on foot and bicycle.
'As in any big ciry and in any other urban neighborhood in Montr6al, one
is always careful, but
I feel safe in
the Village day and night," says Bugs.
"ln
The Olympic Park campus. from the 1976 (Bruce Jenner) Summer Games.
tenns ofrevival and renaissance, the past few years have been a time ofchange
is home to "Space for Lii-e" r'enues includes Montr6al's Biodome, Planetarium.
and transition for the neighborhoo{ but like I said before, the Village remains
Insectarium, and Botanical Garden. Mont-Royal is always a treat, its grand
esplanade offering stunning panoramic views of the city, plus meadows, hiking
trails, and a preffy rural-sn le cemetery.
the heartbeat of gay life in Montreal, and community spirit remains strong."
Rewarding, too. are end-to-end explorations ofthe Old Port. Highlights
include sandy Clock Toser Beach; Notre Dame De Bon Secours Chapel.
from l77l; the stacked e'ubes of architect Moshe Safdie's singular Habitat
Pineault. president and founder of Fier16 Montr6al wrote: "When humankind can
67 across the water: and on a barge anchored adjacent to the decaying gran-
ary towers, the Bota Bota
spa.
Uplifting. too. was the Concerl for World Peace, a brand-new progranr rntroduced at \fontreal Pride in August. In his personal invitation to the e\ent. Eric
lj\ e in l!r\ e. there u ill be no more suffering: this is my greatest wish for our ri orld.
.lpi1 x5
J11 thi>
unique evening, and together, we can build a better \\orld."
\\':::: \[rnria] leading the way, that wish
has more than a fightrng chance
montr6alresources
SLEEP
Hotel Gault, 449 Sainte-H6ldne Street. Tel: 514-9041616. Commanding a corner in Old Montr6al, this
handsome conversion of an 1871 textile headquarters
is Montr6al's sole Prefened Hotel Group property.
Offering 30 spacious studios and apartments, the
Gault is also abuzzing social hub, with inviting space
in its stylish lobby, lounge, and library and superb
breakfast and lunch from its oublic restaurant.
www.hotelgault,com
H6tel Nelligan, 106, rue Saint-Paul Ouest. Tel: 514788-2O4O. Prolific, romantic, rumored to be gay and
ultimately tragic, Montr6al-born Emile Nelligan (1879194"1) remains one of French-Canada's most beloved
poets. His lyricism is honored in this Old Port gem, featuring 44 rooms, 59 suites, and two penthouses in
three meticulously restored 1 fth-century stone-walied
buildings. www.hotelnelligan.com
LHotel. 262 Saint-Jacoues Street West. Tel: 514-9850019. Originally one of the Victorian-era banks on the
former "Canadian Wall Street," this unique boutique is
one big art gallery. Including the Robert Indiana "LOVE"
sculpture outside, the owner's private pop art and contemporary collection, featuring original works from the
likes of Warhol, Lichtenstein, and Hirst, decorates the
lobby and each of the 55 individually designed rooms
and suites. www.lhotelmontgal.com
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Centaur Theater Company, 453 St. Frangois-Xavier.
in Montr6al's Old Stock
Exchange Building, the Centaur has been Quebec's
leading English-speaking theatre since 1969. Among
Tel: 514-288-3161. Housed
the six main stage productions for the 201 5-201 6 season is "Last Night at the Gayety," a musical satire
about Montr6al's Sin City heyday running from April 19
.'l
to May 5, 201 6. www.centaurtheatre.com
IMAGE+NATION. Taking place from November 19-29,
2015, the 28th edition of the Montr6al International
LGBT Film Festival is aiming for more "vedte" in depicting positive, real-life LGBT stories from diverse perspectives. Offering more than 70 programs at venues
including Cin6ma lmp6rial and Cin6ma Beaubien, plus
online, this global showcase is Canada's longest running such event. wwwimage-nation.org
MURAL, 3527a Boulevard Saint-Laurent. Running for
11 days each June, this multi-programmatic public art
event on SainfLaurent Boulevard celebrates the talents of local and international artists who add to the
growing collection of mind-bending murals on and
around the Main during the event. Also look for the
side-street murals off Sainte-Catherine, just shy of the
Village. www.muralfestival.com
PHf Centre, 407 Saint-Pierre Street. Tel: 514-2250525. ln 2012,leading Montr6al patron d'arts Phoebe
Greenberg opened this revolutionary facility as "an
intelligent building that could perfectly meet the evolu-
tion of new media and the contemporary vision of
artists in a variety of mediums." Housed in an 1861
heirloom, the always-evolving PHI offers exhibition
spaces, screening rooms, production facilities, and
performance venues on four levels, plus dramatic
rooftop terrace. www.phi-centre.com
Society tor Arts and Technology, 1 201 Sainflaurent
Boulevard. Tel:514-844-2033. Founded in 1996, SAT
is internationally recognized for "developing immersive
technologies and augmented realties by the creative
use of high-speed networks." Featuring programming
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PASSPORT
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SEPTEI\,4BER 2015
ranging from symposia to full-sunound multimedia
show in the rooftop Satosphere dome, this striking
facility also features the dynamic Foodlab and outdoor
deck. www.sat.qc.ca
EAT
EVOO, 3426 Notre-Dame Ouest. Tel: 514-846-3886.
Veterans of now closed nose-to-tail sensation DNA,
Dublin native Peter Saunders and his Quebec-born
partners Sophie Ouellet and Claudie Harvey marry
classical French and southern Meditenanean ideas at
their compelling "Extra Virgin Olive Oil" in southwest
Montr6al's rising Saint-Henri neighborhood. With
Saunders supplying the lrish wit, including his take on
the traditional fry-up breaKast, every bite is charmed.
www.restaurantevoo,com
Saloon, 1333 Ste-Catherine Est. Tel: 514-522-1333.
Described as "the Neil Patrick Harris of Montr6al
restaurants-tenibly attractive with a healthy dose of
campiness," this Village hotspot boasts a killer martini
menu, savory bistro fare and one of the neighborhood's most popular outdoor terraces, complete with
DJ. www.lesaloon.ca
UExpress, 3927 rue Saint-Denis. Tel: 514-8455333. Save the jet lag and follow the checkered tile
entrance into this utterly perfect Parisian bistro.
Animated by the spirit of its founders, a young couple in the theatre who wanted a place accessible to
all, it's the gift that been giving since 1980. Amid the
bustle and palm trees. this is comfort food at its
best. www.restaurantlexpress.com
Le Serpent. 257, rue Prince Montr6al. Tel: 514-3164666. As the restaurant of the Darling Foundry Art
Centre (www.fonderiedarling.org), this stark space
echoes the building's industrial past with high ceilings,
large windows, and minimalist d6cor enlivened by contemporary art on the walls. With seating for around 80,
with room for more at the long marble-topped bar, the
eclectic ltalian-accented menu includes raw fsh and a
strong wine list. www.leserpent.ca
Mile-Ex, 6631 rue Jeanne-Mance. fel: 514-2727919. Hey, m***fer, want a burger? How about a dou-
ble or triple Mofo burger? French-born chef-owner
Gr6gory Paul has fun with his menu at this cozy
cabin in tucked-away Mile-Ex, where the signature
squid roll-a spicy merguez sausage wrapped in a
knife-scored squid filet and topped with zesty sweetsour relish-is a must. wwwmileex.ca
PARTY
Black & Blue Festival. Running from October 7'13, 2015, the 25th anniversary of this landmark
event includes the signature Black & Blue party
(October 11). Being held for the first time ever in
the Olympic Park's spectacular Pierre-Charbonneau Amphitheatre, the all-night gathering will feature top DJs, multiple show stages, and dazzling
sound and light effects, plus a showing of Fritz
Lang's haunting silent film classic, Metropolis.
www.bbcm.org
Cabaret Mado, 1 1 1 5 Ste-Catherine Est. Tel: 51 4525-7566. Starting out as a cigarette girl and
member of the "Vulva Queens" drag trio in 1987,
Luc Provost became Mado Lamotte-and Montr6al's reigning drag queen was born. The beauty
and brains behind Montr6al's ever-fabulous Mascara Drag Ball, Mado, who served as spokesperson and made her first-ever stage appearance at
legendary Caf6 Cl60patra for this year's 25th StAmbroise Montr6al Fringe Festival, has kept the
torch lit at her namesake Villaqe cabaret since
2002. www.mado.qc.ca
Mademoiselle Butterfly, 1 726 Notre-Dame Ouest.
Tel: 438-496-1272. Exemplifying the expanding
borders of LGBT{riendly nightlife in Montr6al, this
newly opened restaurant/lounge in fast-developing
Griffintown, just west of Old Montr6al at the gateway to the Lachine Canal, celebrates diversity with
an "ongoing happy hour party" that includes DJ'd
dance parties, outdoor seating, and more.
www.f a cebook.com/mllebutterf lymtl