1/35 American M29C Weasel

1/35 American M29C Weasel
No.35503
WWW.LZmodels.com
Made in EU
contains 1 highly detailed and accurate model
345 resin parts
140 PE parts
+ plastic parts, mesh and wires needed for assembly
decals for 4 vehicles (2 US + 2 in British service)
glue and paints not included
suitable for advanced modellers
keep safety rules for work with resin
instructions and references on CD
Keep safety rules when working with resin.
For safety reasons, and due to the complexity of construction,
this kit is recommended only for advanced modellers.
The kit contains small parts, keep it out of the reach of children.
Glue and paints not included
Contains 345 resin parts, 140 PE parts and plastic parts, metal
mash, printed instruments foil and wires needed for assembly
Read carefully through assembly instruction before you start building
Instructions and photos by Adam Kuller, as published at Military
Modelling Website:
http://www.militarymodelling.com/forums/postings.asp?th=55613&p=1
M29 weasel was a tracked vehicle developed and manufactured since 1943. Originally designated T24,
it was standardized as Cargo Carrier M29 later in 1943, manufactured by Studebaker. During WWII
the weasel was used in Italy early 1944 and later in Western Europe and in the Pacific. During the time,
there were many changes in design. The first 2103 had 380 mm tracks, later version 510 mm.
M29 had very low freeboard and really could sink when loaded with too much gear, or met with rough waters! Also
it was near to impossible to control and very slow in the water. The result as an updated design including duel-ruddered
controls, and large flotation pontoons fore & aft.
.
The C version was both factory produced and also made as a field-mod kit, so that existing M29's in use could be
fitted for better water travel. The floats simply bolted on, and could be later removed if unneeded.
Number of pieces in red if multiple
A2
A1
A3
A5
A4
2x A55
A8
A7
A6
2x A56
A11
4x A9
A12
A13
A10
34x A17
4x A14
A15
A16
4x A20 A21 112x
34x A18
4x A19
2x A30 8xA31 A32
A26
A23
A22
2xA24
A27
A25
8x A35
2xA34
8x A33
4x A42 4xA43
A52
8x
2x
A36
A44 A45
2x
A28 A29
2x A37
A46
2xA39
A41
2x A40
A38
A47 A48
A49
2x
A53
20x
A16 and A44 are different for M29C
2x
A54
18x
A50
A51
29
28
30
26,27
31 32 33
B1
B2
B9
B3
B6
B4
B5
A44
2x B12 2x B13
B7
M29C PE
blue numbers
in instructions
parts 13 are not
used in the build,
parts 25 are
improved and
come on separate
small PE sheet
B8
A16
2x B10
A29
B11
M29 PE parts marked in red, additional
M29C PE parts in blue, resin parts in black
4
5
3
f
a
g
c
10
h
PE “b” driver side
PE “d” back
window frames glued on clear plastic from both sides, tiny parts
“4" “5" can be glued or soldered - in case of soldering done before
completing with plastic glass
A52
nut heads provided in the kit, wipers to be assembled
in other holes.
PE 6, 7
A12
A8
Remove light
holder for
M29C
A2
A4
A7
A11
A1
A47
A23
25
A30
A40
A25
“C” and mounted on resin wall to get right high of PE sides, engine cover
to be fitted “by eye” in next step. Printed instruments on clear self-adhesive foil
- place it in right position and then assembly PE. Clear varnish can be used
later to make better glass like looking illusion.
20
printed instruments
bulbs and
switches on instrument panel can be made of wires
and resin buttons provided
26
22
21
27
B11
B4
Driver´s handle is not
used for M29C
PE “2" to be added
23
A9
A53
A40
A14
24
A47
A23
22
A38+ 31
A6
A9
A14
A29
A13
16
11
A15
12
For additional detailing Adam has done seat
pouches made of chocolate bar foil and PE scraps
To make exhaust mesh cover a piece 29x16mm
is needed. These looked often very different and
any creativity here is possible. PE bits have tiny nut heads
or also resin nut heads can be used to get more noticeable
effect
14
another variant
15
A3
Here a bit of filler and some sanding might be needed to
get smooth crossing. Many guys recommend to assembly
wheels and tracks first on A3 and then glue whole thing
together with upper body. It allows to shape tracks much
easier if they are accessible from the top
optional PE lid “32"
A5
A28
A48
0,2mm wire
A28
A22+30
Front opening cover
B1
8
strip of paper
for a belt
B2
19
B2 is glued later, once the front cell is assembled
17
butons
e
A26
17
2
18
A24
A2418
28
h
bending the front guard.
According to references
some M29C had this guard
mounted if the pontoon
cells were removed
l
0,2mm wire
used for tiedowns
6
7 for opposite
side
e
Cleaned tracks to bend with use of the cast
tool provided in the kit. The tracks are made
to fit to a specific area of the run---in that the
links separate more going around the drive
and idler wheels [as is the case on the real thing,
naturally]--keep this in mind if you go about
fitting the tracks in another way. Hot water or
hair dryer - both will work well. Rounded
areas have to be pushed hard against the tool
to get perfectly rounded track
A56
A55
A54
n
bumpers assembled first
Support arms A35
are longer in
the kit, their
length needed
depends
on work accuracy
so you might need
to make them shorter
by cutting the end
2,4mm thick
spacer used to
get springs
right, any piece
of plastic or
wood this thick
will do a job
A37
A31
A36
A32
A36
A32
A37
A31
A31
A36 A32
Drive wheels - put one A42 from the front and
another from the back on hub A39
A42
A42
A39
A43
A43
A45
A36
A49
A46
Idler wheels - put two A43 on longer hub A49 with
spacer A45 between them, add A46 at the front
and holder A36 at the back
A35
A31
A33
A18
A17
A18
Bottom of the chassis is about 7,5mm above
the working base
Guide horns assembly
A35
Now the track can be shaped exactly with help
of warm water or hair dryer - and then secured
with drop of thin glue
J+K
L+M
A19 + A20
return rollers holders completed:
J+K next to the drive wheels,
L+M next to the idler wheels
They are to be placed exactly in the middle of
1-2 and 3-4 bogies as shown in pics
Tie downs made
of 0,2mm wire
A53
resin cast
curtain buttons
B3
B7
27
I recommend to put in PE 27 before
the font cell is glued in its place
B8
B2
pins 0,8mm wire to
hang woven boat-bumpers
22
25 push the rivets
from the back, and
assembly them below
22
26
You might need to cut the end of 25 a bit to get
correct length shown in next pictures
B6
20 23
A16
0,6mm wire
18
B11
21
0,2mm wire
10
11
10
11
12
15
16
14
14
17
not used
integrated in casting
17
14
24
2
5
4
3
B10
1
1mm rod
5mm long
B10
0,5 wire
33mm long
0,8 wire
10mm long
Some rudders had one, some two holes to hold them lifted up. Dry-fit them first to check position
and then drill 0,8mm holes - exact position depends on length and angle of the rudder rod you have
made.
B10
Rudders down option
B12
B13
B12
0,2 wire
B12
B13
latches to hold rudders in lifted position, Adam used wire-made alternative in his build
6
B12
A29
A44
19
0,2mm wire used for the line
33
7
A41
A51
0,6 wire
7
0,2 wire
US Army service
Decal placing examples
British Army service
Vehicles were usually painted in olive drab and also
seen in winter black/white or grey/white camo. Some
pictures show a vehicle in olive drab/white camo,
the same used Adam for his test build