The Walking Guide for the King John`s Ruin: Peak District

P R OGR AMME 5
K IN G J OH N ’ S R U IN
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE & DERBYSHIRE
In t ro d u c t io n
We’re on the trail of ‘Bad King John’. A brutal medieval tyrant, sworn enemy of Robin
Hood, and the man forced to accept the Magna Carta or lose his kingdom. Over four days
we’re trekking across Nottinghamshire and into the Peak District – Britain’s first national
park – to discover how and why John’s reign ended with the world famous Magna Carta.
Crossing through Robin Hood country on route to the Peaks, we unravel John’s reign.
Was he really the storybook villain that we’re led to believe, or is that merely the stuff
of myth and legend?
A word of warning: the first half of this walk includes a number of roads and small lanes – for both walking
along and crossing - so be careful. Day 4 is a lengthy walk as it is and, for televisual reasons, finishes at the
top of Jacob’s Ladder. Be aware that we still have a lengthy walk back down Edale Valley where we came
from or onwards across Kinder Scout (for which you should allow an extra day).
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Walking Through History Day 1
Starting at the village of Laxton we discover how John exploited the vast royal forests of
Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire through his control centre at Laxton Castle. Pushing west, we’ll
learn how his quest for cash made him powerful enemies as we reach Rufford Abbey.
! Laxton to Ollerton, via Rufford Abbey
Distance: 10 miles
Day 2
We enter the modern remnants of Sherwood and join the trail of Robin Hood. Then it's on to
Derbyshire and up to Bolsover Castle before hopping over the M1 to reach our bed for the night.
Our route takes us right through the forest to John’s pleasure palace at King’s Clipstone. Then,
it’s over the border to Derbyshire and a linchpin castle at Bolsover.
Finally, we hop over Chesterfield, to end our day at the edge of the Chatsworth estate.
! Ollerton to Robin Hood Inn, via Sherwood Forest and Bolsover Castle
Distance: 19 miles (plus a 30-minute drive to the Robin Hood Inn)
Day 3
Across moors and a stunning back entrance to Chatsworth House, we unearth some revealing
evidence of John’s approach to kingship. Then the march to civil war leads us to Monsal Head via
Bakewell.
! Robin Hood Inn to Monsal Head, via Chatsworth House and Bakewell
Distance: 15 miles
Day 4
As John’s kingdom unravels, we’re trekking north through the Limestone Way to John’s fortress
at the centre of the Peaks. Here we’ll uncover the momentous turning point in our history that
was the Magna Carta. Our final push drives us on towards Kinder Scout and a modern event that
invoked the spirit of Magna Carta and provided us with the first National Park in England.
! Monsal Head to Jacob’s Ladder, via Peveril Castle and Edale Valley
Distance: 20 miles
Please use OS Explorer Maps 271, 270, 269, OL24 and OL1 (1:25k) or OS Landranger Maps 121, 120, 119, and
110 (1:50k). All distances approx.
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Walking Through History Day 1 – Plac es of In ter es t. s
L axt o n t o O l l ert o n , v ia Ru ffo rd
D is t an c e: 10 m il es
Our story begins at Sutton-on-Trent on the River Trent as this was the medieval boundary to
Nottinghamshire’s vast royal forest. The Trent was in medieval times also considered the boundary between
north and south England. We recommend, however, that for purely walking purposes we begin at the village
of Laxton.
John ‘Lackland’
So who was John? He was a Plantagenet, born in 1167 as Henry II’s fifth and youngest
son. Never expected to get near the throne he was nicknamed ‘Lackland’. One by
one, John’s siblings died off, edging him closer to the throne. When his father, Henry
II, passed in 1189, only John and his big brother Richard were left. Richard I, or
Richard the Lionheart, gave John the rich hunting counties of Nottinghamshire and
Derbyshire when he was a young prince. Far from trusting his younger brother,
however, he also demanded that he stay out of the England for three years while he
was away on Crusade. Richard’s suspicions were to prove legitimate when John’s
rebelled against his brother. Famously, Richard returned and retook Nottingham
Castle from his brother in 1194 with the help of siege machines brought back from the
crusades. Fortunately for John, he was forgiven as a mere boy, clearing his path
towards the throne.
Just north of New Bar Farm there is a layby from which
we can pick up a footpath heading west. The path cuts
across fields to the Motte and Bailey and Manorial
Earthworks marked on the OS map. At the gate we can
see a notice board providing information. Walking across
the field beware of the cows as there are also calves
here. Laxton claims to be the only remaining working
‘open field’ farming village in Europe still operating this
ancient system. Climbing the old mound we can see
across these fields and far beyond getting a real sense of
what a superb vantage point this castle had.
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Walking Through History Laxton Castle and Maud de Caux
This landscape looks nothing like our modern idea of a forest but this was all once royal forest. Eight
hundred years ago, royal forests covered four fifths of Nottinghamshire and around half of Derbyshire.
They weren’t just for the king and his mates to hunt in, however. Anyone living or working within their
boundaries was taxed under a punishing system of ‘Forest Laws’. These laws were administered from
Laxton Castle, which acted as control centre for Sherwood Forest and several other royal forests across
the two counties.
When John became king in 1199, on the death of Richard, a
lady by the name of Maud de Caux, with husband Ralph Fitz
Stephen, was keeper of the forest. When Ralph died in 1202
with no heir, the castle passed to Maud. John, however,
quickly took the castle from the widowed Maud and handed
it over to a lackey. For the remainder of John’s reign the
forests were in the hands of temporary royal keepers. Maud
proved to be something of a hardened warrior as she fought
to regain her castle.
She eventually did reclaim her land many years later after
John’s death. She was the first single woman to hold this
office.
From the Motte and Bailey, we’re following the track back to the main road in the village and past the
church. When the road forks we’re taking the right-hand lane that continues straight on and then a footpath
that turns right towards the ‘Manorial Earthworks’. This loops round West Field to Laxton Common and then
takes us south of Wellow Park to Wellow village.
John’s Itinerary
John is the first King for which we have a detailed day to day itinerary of his movements. Indeed, we can
see that John was at Laxton and then at Nottingham Castle on a particular day. He travelled relentlessly,
averaging between 12 and 15 miles a day. Selling privileges and picking up fines, he was constantly looking
for ways to squeeze cash out of the population. John had inherited an empire from Richard that included
roughly two-thirds of modern France, yet his brother’s crusades had left the kingdom financially drained.
In 1204, disaster struck when John lost Normandy, cutting him off from the rest of his lands on the
continent. Norman Kings had always spent the majority of their time in France. Richard, for instance,
spent a total of six months of his entire 10-year reign in England. John was now on everybody’s doorstep,
permanently based in England and one obsession now
dominated the rest of his reign – to win back Normandy, and
that would take some serious fundraising.
Following John’s quest for cash leads us to Rufford Abbey.
Beyond the small maypole village of Wellow, the footpath
takes us south-west over the dismantled railway and all
the way to the Water Mill at the north end of Rufford
Abbey Country Park. Skirting round Rufford Lake, packed
full of wildlife, we’re on route to the charming remains of
Rufford Abbey.
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Walking Through History John’s Troubled Relationship with the Church
Now a popular public park, Rufford Abbey was originally built by Cistercian
monks. Their great wealth unsurprisingly attracted the King’s attention.
John fined the order 300 marks, equivalent to around £2.5 million today.
His spikey relationship with the church was exacerbated when he clashed
with Pope Innocent. When the Archbishop of Canterbury died, the Pope
wanted to put loyal follower Stephen Langton onto this powerful seat. John
insisted on his own choice and they squabbled for three years before
Innocent issued an ‘Interdict’. Brought against the English church in 1208,
it suspended Christian services and the dead were denied Christian burial.
When this failed to have the required effect, John was excommunicated
and banished from the church.
Two miles north following the path along Rainworth Water brings us to Ollerton and our night’s rest. It also
brings us to the fringes of modern Sherwood.
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Walking Through History Day 2 – Plac es of In ter es t. s
O l l ert o n t o Ro b in Ho o d
In n , v ia S h erwo o d Fo res t
an d Bo l s o v er C as t l e
D is t an c e: 19 m il es
(p l u s a 30- m in u t e d riv e t o
t he Ro b in Ho o d In n )
From Ollerton we need to cross over the main roundabout (and hefty junction!) to the rather more pleasant
surroundings of Sherwood Heath. Continuing straight along the path, parallel to the A616, we then turn south
on the path alongside the B6034. When the footpath hits the road we’re crossing over to find the entrance to
the Sherwood Forest visitor centre. From here we can explore the stunning scenery and ancient oaks. Various
loops and trails offer pleasant walking packed full of charm and wildlife.
Sherwood Forest: Robin Hood and the Sheriff of Nottingham
Now 450 acres of public nature reserve, Sherwood is a tiny fragment of what it was in John’s day. The king
came here frequently to hunt stags and boar. Hunting, farming, or even collecting firewood all required
the king’s permission and came at a price, under Forest Law. After losing Normandy, John ramped up
taxes across all his forests and squeezed Nottinghamshire and
Derbyshire particularly hard.
Today the biggest appeal for tourists is the forests’ connection to Robin
Hood. You’ll find statues and the Major Oak, supposed basecamp for
Robin and his merry men. The huge tree itself is over 800 years old and
one of almost a thousand veteran oaks in Sherwood. Whether Robin
actually existed or not is another question but back when picking up a
stick could get you fined, it’s not hard to see the appeal of an outlaw
who championed the rights of the little people against a ruthless King.
It was actually nineteenth century novelist Walter Scott who made John
into Robin’s villainous foe. The early Robin Hood ballads make no
mention of John. If Robin is myth then at least the evil sheriff of
Nottingham is based on a real person. From 1208 until after his death,
John’s Sheriff of Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire was Philip Marc. The
Magna Carta specifically names him stating, ‘We will entirely remove
from their bailiwicks the relations of…Philip Mark with his brothers and
his nephew Geoffrey, and the whole brood of the same.’
Once we’ve finished exploring the forest, we’re taking the Robin Hood Way west. A mile west of the Major
Oak is ‘Centre Tree’, believed to be the centre of old Sherwood. Turning left from there we eventually come
to the A6075. A right-hand turn and we then need to pick up the footpath off the other side of the road
heading for Clipstone Junction. When we hit the road at ‘King’s Clipstone’ we’re following it round to the
right and at the bend, a gate on the left provides an inconspicuous entrance to a field. A few hundred yards
away we can see what remains of King John’s Palace.
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Walking Through History John’s Pleasure Palace
Now just four ruined walls in a field, this was once a grand
palace and hunting retreat. Documents describe chapels,
accommodations, kitchens, halls, gardens and ponds.
Whereas Laxton was the administrational centre, Clipstone
was for hunting, entertaining dignitaries and romancing. We
know of five recorded visits to the palace. Indeed, we also
know of a visit by Richard Lionheart in which he met with
William King of Scotland in 1194.
Our next stop is Parliament Oak, once a gateway entrance to the palace. We need to head back along the
main road a few hundred yards before turning left on the B6035. Almost immediately we’re continuing
straight on along the footpath where the road veers off to the right. Down Squires Lane we take the marked
path to the River Maun via Cavendish Wood. Half a mile down river brings us to New Buildings Drive, off to the
right. This then takes us all the way to Parliament Oak by the busy main road.
Parliament Oak: Uprisings and Plots
This tree – even older than the Major Oak at around 1200 years – is said to be
the location for a hastily called Parliament. John supposedly called council
with his barons here upon learning of another Welsh uprising in 1212. Having
invaded Wales a year earlier after a previous uprising, this time he was caught
off guard. His response was brutal as he hanged 28 Welsh hostages – sons of
princes and some as young as 12 – from the walls of Nottingham Castle. John
did not invade Wales again as his attentions were diverted to a plot against his
life. From those whom he suspected, mostly barons from the north, he took
hostages and castles as some of those implicated fled abroad.
Now in a layby off the main road, the Parliament Oak has seen better days,
but if you look carefully you can see just how vast its trunk once was. Perhaps
its size was a factor in being used as a boundary marker by one of the
gateways to the palace.
From Parliament Oak we’re continuing our push towards Derbyshire by heading down Coach Road on the
other side of the main road. Briefly passing through Market Warsop we rejoin a footpath where it crosses the
railway line at Hammerwater Bridge. Following paths running along the south side of Shirebrook Wood and
Pleasley Park, we enter Derbyshire. Passing through Pleasley we need to pick up the path heading north along
Longhedge Lane. This path was once a main medieval road that John likely used when he travelled to
Bolsover Castle. Cut over west to Glapwell and follow the marked paths north all the way into Bolsover and
the magnificent castle perched high above as we approach.
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Walking Through History Bolsover Castle
As powerful barons of the north were becoming openly
hostile to the King, John shored up defences at ten castles,
including this one. A medieval fortress was built here by the
Peverel family but Sir Charles Cavendish bought the old
fortress in 1612 and began work on his ‘Little Castle’
project. His son William - playboy, poet, courtier and later
Civil War Royalist general - inherited the ‘Little Castle’ in
1617 and set about its completion. The result is a fairytale
sprawl of seventeenth century stately rooms, gardens,
fountains, and a riding house, complete with a grand looking
‘toy keep’. It also boasts fantastic views of the Peaks, our
next destination.
Someone’s gone and built the M1 in the way so we’re cheating and grabbing a ride over to the Robin Hood Inn
near Chatsworth House.
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Walking Through History Day 3 – Plac es of In ter es t. s
Ro b in
Ho o d
In n
to
M o n s al
Head ,
v ia
C h at s wo rt h Ho u s e an d
Bakewel l
D is t an c e: 15 m il es
We pick up a path heading up through the East Moor to the back entrance of Chatsworth House. The Hunting
Tower and cascade brings us down to Chatsworth through a truly breathtaking landscape. As we wind down
through the woods, and past various waterfalls, we catch glimpses of the house and estate through the
woodland. Where it opens out the views are something to behold.
Chatsworth House
Famous as the seat of the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire,
Chatsworth is home to various gardens, water features and a
1000-acre park. More relevant to our story are some original
charters issued by our John. Kept in the archives, these
beautiful charters were legal documents issued by John
himself in the year 1200, at the beginning of his reign. After
giving John’s lengthy title, it confirms that John is granting
William Fitz Walklin and his heirs freedom from Forest Law
in the manor of Stainsby. This meant William was free to
cultivate his lands and develop his estates as he saw fit.
William offered 60 marks for the confirmation of these
charters. John was essentially ‘deregulating’ the forest in
return for money. In effect, selling off the family land, John issued hundreds of these charters and in just
12 years quadrupled the total royal revenue to £83,000.
We head over the old bridge and across the road to the beautiful village of Edensor. Some stone steps wind up
through houses before opening out onto the fields beyond. Past Maud’s Plantation and across Carlton
Pastures, this beautiful and varied two mile stretch brings us into Bakewell. Following Coombs Road alongside
the river, we’re then crossing the medieval bridge into the centre of town. We can pick up the marked
footpath again where it runs through the graveyard of All Saints Church.
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Walking Through History Bakewell
Bakewell is the only market town within the Peak District National Park
boundary. The wealth of courtyards, independent shops, cafés, and its
prime location for exploring the peaks, make it a mecca for tourists. On
the River Wye, the medieval bridge is still a main road in and out of the
town. It also has a historic church with some stunning features. The
current church dates back to the 12th century and some distinctly Norman
arches survive. There was a church here even earlier in Saxon times and
along with two ninth century crosses in the churchyard, there is a
remarkable collection of Anglo-Saxon and Norse stonework. Indeed, it is
one of the biggest collections from the period. Unsurprisingly, King John
has a connection to the church too. John issued a charter while still a
Prince in 1192, granting Bakewell church to Hugh de Nonant, Bishop of
Lichfield.
The footpath leads us through the churchyard, up an alley and out onto meadows looking back down over
Bakewell and its surroundings. Crossing Crowhill Lane, we briefly walk along the small road before the
footpath emerges again heading north towards Ashford on Water and the River Wye. From here its three miles
of spectacular riverside walk before we hit the iconic viaduct at Monsal Head.
John’s Forest of the Peak
Overlooking Monsal Dales, the winding River Wye and the
epic railway viaduct, Monsal Head is a truly epic site. As one
of the most popular and photographed places in the Peak
District there are plenty of facilities here for walkers. The
Monsal Trail runs across the railway viaduct and along eight
and a half miles of disused railway line through stunning
limestone dales. Heading into John’s Forest of the Peak, our
next stop is Peveril Castle at the centre of this royal hunting
preserve. Squeezing his barons for money, John spent 10
years building towards his goal of retaking Normandy. When
he demanded soldiers for his campaign, many barons,
particularly those form the north, refused to support John
with troops or money. Somewhat undermanned John had some initial successes but lost the decisive Battle
of Bouvines in 1214. From this point it was not a case of whether there was going to be an English
rebellion, it was just a case of when.
First, however, we need a good night’s sleep before a tough final day tomorrow. Following the path under the
viaduct and across the footbridge, look out for fly fisherman at this beautiful spot on the river. A steep climb
then brings us to a spectacular viewpoint by the Monsal Head Inn.
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Walking Through History Day 4 – Plac es of In ter es t. s
M o n s al Head t o Jac o b ’ s L ad d er,
v ia Pev eril C as t l e an d E d al e Val l ey
D is t an c e: 20 m il es
Our march towards the high peaks continues as we pick
up the Monsal Trail heading over the railway viaduct.
At Miller’s Dale we’re descending the steep sided gorge
and crossing a delightful footbridge. Across the road we
find the path continuing from the back of the church
towards Monk’s Dale. After a few miles this path
becomes the Limestone Way, which we’re following for
seven miles through classic walking territory. At Cave
Dale, we come to Castleton through what feels very
much like a back route in. This incredible rocky path
cuts down a dry limestone valley. Be careful when
walking this steep and rubbly path. Take a moment to
look up for a glimpse of our next location, the imposing
Peveril Castle. When we reach the village square we
turn left and follow the road round to a small lane and
signposts for the castle.
Peveril Castle: Magna Carta and the slide to Civil War
Run by English Heritage, this castle with the remains of its
Norman keep, towers over Castleton and provides fantastic
views across Hope Valley. Getting there, however, is a tall
ask! It’s a steep climb but well worth the effort. In a shock
move, on 17 May 1215, rebel barons seized the Tower of
London, pulling the might of John’s capital city from under
him. His kingdom was shrinking fast but it was said anyone
who held Peveril Castle and its sister fortress at Bolsover,
held the whole region. The current keep was built in 1176
by John’s father, Henry II. Perched high on a limestone ridge
it turns the sheer ravines into an incredible defensive
advantage. In June 1215, John travelled to Runnymeade in
Surrey. John had demanded too many taxes and by 1215 the
lid blew off and he lost control of a significant chunk of the ruling class. On 15 June, John put his seal to a
charter limiting his own royal power. Essentially a peace treaty, the charter was meant to produce peace
but actually produced a slide to civil war. With his authority collapsing, John conceded the Peak Castles of
Bolsover and Peveril in 1216. Remarkably, John’s own supporters refused to hand them over. Eventually,
in total desperation, John authorised William de Ferrers to take them by force.
Our route now follows some of the most iconic walking routes in the Peak District. Taking the small lane left
from the castle, we’re skipping over the river and past the entrance to Peak Cavern, known as the ‘Devil’s
Arse’! The small lane turns into a footpath taking us towards Speedwell Cavern. The Peak and Speedwell
caverns offer guided tours and boat trips into these vast underground caves.
The Crown Jewels
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Walking Through History If one famous account is to be believed, the king was travelling to Norfolk when he started feeling ill. He
turned around but sent his baggage train onto the causeway to cross the great estuary of The Wash.
Carriages sunk into the mud and the tide swept the convoy away. In amongst John’s possessions were his
crown jewels. On 19 October in the year 1216, in the middle of the civil war, he died in Newark back in
Nottinghamshire. He was suffering from dysentery and, rumour has it, was supposed to have gorged on a
surfeit of peaches.
Passing two more caverns the path brings us round to the base of Mam Tor, known as the ‘Shivering
Mountain’. At 517 metres, it is one of the National Park’s most dramatic peaks and also one of the oldest hill
forts in Britain. We’re pushing on across the road to Rushup’s Edge. Ensure you take in the breathtaking
views along this ridge and, in particular, at the Lord’s Seat. Descending off the ridge down into Upper Booth
we’re now beginning our final stretch along the Pennine Way as it slowly winds its way along the valley.
Jacob’s Ladder sharpens our ascent towards the District’s highest peak, Kinder Scout. The stone steps were
cut by Jason Marshall 200 years ago and provide a steep but secure climb. At the top of these steps is a cairn
with magnificent views back down Edale Valley and also across to Kinder Scout.
Magna Carta’s Legacy: The Kinder Trespass
The great charter was only ingrained in our history thanks to
compromises made after John’s death. The advisors to his
heir, his nine-year old son Henry, negotiated peace and a
new and improved version of the charter was issued. The
Barons’ war melted away. Over the centuries Magna Carta
has been cited as the cornerstone of everything from land
rights to trial by jury. What started in the year 1215, bit by
bit has become our modern democracy. Now our common
rights stretch to all corners of our lives including walking of
course.
In April 1932, over 400 people participated in a mass
trespass onto Kinder Scout, a moorland plateau. The
trespass was highly controversial at the time, being seen as
a working class struggle for the right to roam versus the rights of wealthy landowners to have exclusive
access to this land. Many could see the beautiful moors and peaks from their homes and factories and just
wanted to escape at the weekends. Angry that they couldn’t enjoy this landscape, the trespass was
organised by Manchester ramblers and six men were arrested after clashes with gamekeepers.
Thanks to the trespassers’ defiance of private landowners here on Kinder Scout, all this land is now open
to walkers. Invoking the spirit of Magna Carta, this direct action kick-started the right to roam movement
across the whole country and led to the Peak District becoming the first national park in the country.
Please note that the end of our walk is not near any facilities or transport. Allow extra time to return to Upper
Booth or elsewhere. If you are continuing on to Kinder Scout please allow an extra day.
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