f Chefs Star - StarChefs.com

Transcription

f Chefs Star - StarChefs.com
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StarChefsf
H O L I D AY
Christmas Dinner
with
5 WINES
Under $15
To Dress Up
Your Holiday Meal
Charlie Palmer
Cuisine Based
On American
Ideals
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Who’s news
2 WHO’S NEWS
Content
4 CHEF SPOTLIGHT: A BACKSTAGE PASS TO
CELEBRITY CHEFS
Molto Mario Baltali, Boston’s Ana Sor tun, San
Francisco’s Michael Mina
6 CHEFS TOOLBOX
What you need to know to build your own home
toolbox.
Product reviews.
8 CELEBRATE!
Chef Char lie Palmer of Aureole dresses up
Christmas dinner.
10 W I N E U N C O R K E D
Christmas Goose and Caber net? Choosing the
right wine for your holiday celebration.
12 W I N E T I P S
Sommelier Eric Scheffer shares his tips on enjoying wine
14 W H A T T O E A T A N D W H E R E T O S T A Y
The food lover’s guide to South Beach
16 E N T E R T A I N I N G U
Stress-free wedding tips.
19 C O O K I N G W I T H K I D S : F O O D + F A M I L Y = F U N !
Make Mexican Tor tillas with Black Beans and
salsa Fresca
20 Q U I C K M E A L S
Tr y this weeks menu from America’s King of the
Grill, Bobby Flay
24 F O R C H O C O L A T E L O V E R ’ S O N L Y
Simple but elegant Honey Chocolate Sauce
25 S W E E T S P O T
Home Made Mar shmallows from Jacques Tor res
26 S T A R C H E F S 1 0 1
Braising defined.
27 S T A R C O O K B O O K S
Explore Latin American Cuisine with Nor man Van
Aken’s New Wor ld Kitchen.
28 A S K T H E S T A R C H E F S
Emeril Lagasse, Bobby Flay, Nor man Van Aken,
Marcus Samuelsson, Alice Water s
30 W H A T ’ S C O O K I N G ?
Easter Br unch in The English Gardens
30 D I D Y O U K N O W ?
“Appas” not tapas in Washington, DC
31 3 0 W H A T G O E S A R O U N D C O M E S A R O U N D
Contaminated Food and the Environment
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StarChefs •
H O L I D AY I S S U E
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chef spotlight
Backstage pass
to celebrity chefs
Mario Batali
New York City
Chef Molto Mario - we can’t
get enough from this talent.
From Babbo to Esca to Lupa
the cur tain draws open to
reveal a magician, a kitchen,
his stage, a man with skills
rarely tasted in the New
World or the Old. He wields
a whisk rather than a wand, prefers radicchio to rabbits, cuts of meat instead of cards
of deceit - yet still spor ts a quirky chapeau!
Who is this conjurer of culinar y concoctions?
Why Mario Batali - New York's own master
chef, entrepreneur, author, and TV icon.
Hooking audiences with opening productions
like 'Babbo', 'Lupa', 'Esca', Super Mario has
continued to awe and amaze with follow-up
acts like tasty new venues, best selling
books, and top-rated TV shows. What can't
our culinar y magician accomplish?
Let him keep it coming!
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H O L I D AY I S S U E •
StarChefs
LINGUINE WITH MANILA
CLAMS, PANCETTA AND
HOT CHILES
2
tablespoons confectioners
sugar
1/8 teaspoons grated fresh nutmeg
3
cups water
1 1/2 cups sugar
1
tablespoon lemon juice
a couple of drops of rose
water
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
Y ield: 4 ser vings as a main
pasta cour se
Ingredients:
1
pound linguine
1/2 medium red onion, finely
minced
1/4 pound pancetta, cut into
1/8th inch dice
4
cloves garlic, peeled and
thinly sliced
6
tablespoons extra virgin
olive oil
1
teaspoon crushed red chiles
1
pound Manila clams,
scrubbed and rinsed
2
cups dry white wine
4
tablespoons unsalted butter
1
bunch Italian parsley, finely
chopped, to yield 1/4 cup
Method:
Bring six quar ts of water to
boil and add 2 tablespoons
salt.
In a large sauté pan, sauté
red onion, pancetta
and gar lic over medium heat until onion is
ver y soft and
pancetta is translucent, about 10 minutes. Add hot chiles,
clams, white wine and
butter and bring to a
boil. Cook until all
clams have opened,
and then set aside.
Boil linguine according to package
instr uctions. While
softened but still
for m, drain in colander over
sink and toss into plan with
clams and stir gently to mix.
This should still be a little
broth-like. Add chopped par sley, pour into war m ser ving
bowl and ser ve.
A n a S o r tun Boston, MA
Chef Ana Sor tun has stor med
the Boston cuisine scene like
it was some sor t of Bastille,
hogging vir tually ever y award
for her restaurant, Oleana.
Perhaps the best loved
French-scented celebrity in
Boston since the Marquis de
Lafayette back in '76, Sor tun
has rocketed through the
ranks of the establishment
leaving all kinds of delectable treats in her wake. I
guess it's up to us to clean
up after her!
Method:
Preheat oven to 375ºF. Place
kadafi in a food processor
and chop up finely. Add butter and milk and line a 8-inch
square heavy baking dish
with half of this mixture.
Mix the cheeses with the pistachios, sugar & nutmeg and
spread onto shredded phyllo.
Top with the remaining shredded pastr y. Bake for 45 minutes.
Make a sugar syr up by boiling
water with sugar and lemon
juice. Cook until reduced by a
third and it becomes nice
and thick. Stir in rose water
to taste. When kunefe comes
out of the oven, ladle 2/3 of
the hot syr up over it and
save the rest to pass while
eating . Ser ve hot.
Michael Mina
San Francisco, CA
KUNEFE
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
Y ield: 8 ser vings
Ingredients:
1/2 package shredded phyllo,
also called kadafi
8
tablespoons melted butter
and 1 1/2 tablespoons milk
1/4 pound fresh buffalo mozzarella, grated
12 ounces ricotta
1/2 cup ground pistachios
What came
fir st, a succulent
salmon filet
flaked to perfection or
the chef who
prepared it?
Salmon,
ser ve it as
we will,
always melts
in our
mouths. Or
does it? While growing up
outside Seattle, Michael
Mina's mom overcooked his
salmon - and quite frankly, he
didn't care for it. But when
finally tasting salmon as it
was meant to be ser ved: ver y
fresh and simply prepared,
exploding with its own flavor - Chef Michael, of Aqua fame,
realized he had found his
calling . F ind out more about
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500° F preheated oven for 4
minutes.
In a medium saucepan warm
2 ounces butter and balsamic
vinegar together until butter
starts to melt. Add potatoes.
Toss until warm. Warm the
asparagus in medium saucepan with 1 ounce of whole
butter and salt and pepper.
this 'boy wonder-chef' and
why his customers' mouths
are watering.
PAN ROASTED SALMON
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
Yield: 4 servings
Ingredients:
4
5-ounce salmon filets
2
ounces olive oil
20 jumbo asparagus stalks
peeled
16 grapefruit segments (2
grapefruits)
8
red bliss potatoes
2
ounces balsamic vinegar
3
ounces butter
salt & pepper
Method:
Preheat oven to 500° F. Add
asparagus to 1 gallon of boiling salted water .
Blanch until tender approximately 4 minutes. Cool in
cold water. Remove.
In a saucepan cover potatoes
in cold water with 1 tablespoon of salt. Boil until tender. Remove and cut in half.
Season salmon filets on both
sides with salt and pepper.
Heat 2 oz of olive oil in large
sauté pan. Add salmon. Cook
until golden brown on both
sides. Remove fat. Place in
Place 5 asparagus stalks in
center of plate. Place salmon
on top. Place 4 potato halves
and 4 grapefruit segments
around plate. Drizzle 2
ounces of grapefruit vinaigrette over top.
GRAPEFRUIT VINAIGRETTE
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
Yield: 2 cups
Ingredients:
1
cup grapefruit juice
1/4 cup honey
3
shallots chopped fine
1
teaspoon ground coriander
9
Tablespoon pure olive oil
1
Tablespoon chopped
Italian parsley
salt & pepper
Method:
Reduce grapefruit juice by
1/2 in non-reactive pan. Pour
into a bowl.
Heat honey until honey starts
to brown. Add to grapefruit
juice. Sauté the shallots
slowly in 1 Tablespoon of
olive oil until translucent.
Add to grapefruit mixture.
Add remaining ingredients.
Whisk until blended. Adjust
seasonings.
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chefs tool box
T HE E SSENTIALS
Vegetable peeler
Melon baller
Small strainer/sifter
Paring knives (usually the
cheaper, disposable kinds)
High quality 8" or 10" chef’s knife
Large serrated knife
Meat thermometer
Rubber spatulas (buy two or
three because they get
lost; we prefer the heatproof kind)
Rubber bowl scrapers
Wooden spoons
Ruler
Hand immersion blender
Mandoline
Rubber cutting boards (they can
be sanded for fresh surfaces)
Food processor
Microwave
Two skillets - one 8 inches, one
12 inches, both non-stick.
Two saucepans -- one small
(one quart or so) one larger.
A pasta pot is nice too
Roasting pans and baking
sheets.
B EYOND
StarChefs
Tool Recommendations
What do the pro’s use at work? At
home? Chefs Toolbox spills the
beans about the tools that chefs
simply can't live without. Plus, create your own toolbox with the help
of StarChefs Tool Recommendations.
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H O L I D AY I S S U E •
StarChefs
THE
B ASICS
Microplane
(for zesting/grating)
Filet knife
Steel rod (for correcting dull
edges on knives)
Candy thermometer (note that
this is different that the
standard meat thermometer: candy thermometers
Need a different temperature range and need to be
extremely accurate)
Pastry tips and pastry bags (a
box of disposable bags are
the most convenient)
An offset and a straight cake
spatula (if you make
cakes)
Metal bench scraper
Electric scale
Large meat slicer
Standing mixer
A small marble counter or a
piece of marble for pastry
and chocolate work
Silpats
C HEF C HOICES
MARIO BATALI
(Babbo - New York City)
Batali loves his good
aluminum sauté pans.
"They heat up fast and I
can beat the hell out of
them." His home kitchen
isn't complete without a
solid wood cutting
board, his Sabatier
knives, a hand held
colander, and a food
processor.
MARCUS SAMUELSSON
(Aquavit - New York City)
Samuelsson always
keeps a mortar and pestle handy for quick grinding.
CHARLIE PALMER
(Aureole - New York City)
Palmer's favorite item is
his non-stick pancake
griddle, which he uses at
home when he cooks for
the kids!
JODY DENTON
(Merenda,- Bend,
Oregon)
Denton loves his
microplane for grating
and zesting, but warns,
"Watch your fingers!"
BOBBY FLAY
(Bolo and Mesa Grill New York City)
His favorite tools change
frequently, but at the
moment Flay says he
loves heatproof rubber
spatulas.
THOMAS JOHN
(Mantra, Boston)
"I love to have a small
electric coffee grinder on
hand at all times. It
allows me to fresh-grind
whole spices, which we
then briefly toast in a
pan to further enhance
their aroma," says John.
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holiday dinner
BREAST OF DUCK WITH
CITRUS SAUCE AND MIXED
FRUIT CHUTNEY
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
with Charlie Palmer
Yield: 6 ser vings
If you're looking for something to dress up
your standard holiday menu, look no fur ther.
Legendar y chef Charlie Palmer shares recipes
for succulent sautéed duck and a delicious
stuffing sure to become a favorite.
celebrate
Charlie Palmer's Progressive American style
is holiday perfection. His approach to
American food is rather simple: He seeks
out the highest quality ingredients and
enhances them to show food in its best
light. Although creativity is a huge part of
cooking, the main focus is always on taste.
For a seasoned, but cutting edge chef like
Palmer, continually thinking of fresh, interesting directions is a priority. If his diners
have seen something before, it's just not
good enough, especially for the holidays.
E X C E R P T F RO M S TA R C H E F S . C O M ' S I N T E RV I E W W I T H
C H A R L I E PA L M E R
I N T E RV I E W B Y M E R R I L L M A I A N O , F E AT U R E S E D I TO R ,
S TA R C H E F S . C O M
Merrill Maiano: Tell me a little bit about the
things that helped to create the groundwork
for your interest in local and artisanal
foods? What prompted you to stick with
"American" food as opposed to French, or
any other kind of cuisine?
Charlie Palmer: Growing up in what I consider a very American part of the country,
and then being exposed to mostly French
food, it just made complete sense for me to
become part of a movement to create what I
hope someday will become an actual "cuisine" based on American ideals.
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MM: "American" food has
long been looked down upon
as a generic identity-less cuisine. In cooking "Progressive
American" cuisine, you have
done a great deal to promote
the kinds of products and
producers that are helping to
give American food a sense
of identity. How far has
American food come since
you started cooking? Do you
think "Progressive American"
has come of age?
CP: I think we've made great
advances in many ways.
Probably most importantly,
we've made advancements in
the quality of ingredients and
the commitment of artisanal
producers. I think
Progressive American cooking has certainly become
important and recognized at
this point.
Enjoy y our holidays and don't
forget to tr y the Savor y
Tur key Hash the next day!
Ingredients:
2 pounds duck bones
1 cup white wine
½ cup carrots, hopped
½ cup celery, chopped
½ cup shallots, chopped
1 Tablespoon parsley, minced
1 teaspoon ginger, minced
2 bay leaves
3 Tablespoons Cointreau
2 cups chicken broth
2 cups orange juice
6 large boneless duck breasts,
skin on
1 teaspoon chives, minced
½ teaspoon orange zest, grated
2 Tablespoons butter
Method:
Preheat oven to 375°F. Cut
bones into 2-inch pieces. Place
them in roasting pan in oven
and roast, stirring occasionally,
30 minutes. Remove bones
from pan and place in large
sauce pot. Deglaze roasting
pan while still hot, by adding ½
cup wine. Stir constantly, scraping bottom to release flavorful
bits and wine has almost evaporated. Scrape pan remains
into large sauce pot with roasted bones.
Add carrots, celery, shallots,
parsley, ginger and bay leaves
and sauté 4 minutes. Stir in
remaining ½ cup of wine and
Cointreau and bring to boil. Add
chicken broth and juice along
with salt and pepper to taste
and again bring to boil. Lower
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heat and simmer about 40 minutes or until liquid has reduced
to 1 ½ cups. Remove from heat
and strain through fine sieve into
small saucepan, discarding
solids.
Score skin of duck breasts into a
cross-hatch pattern. Season both
sides with salt and pepper. Heat
large heavy-bottomed sauté pan
over medium heat. When very
hot, add duck breasts, skin side
down. Cook, draining off excess
fat from time to time, 14 minutes
or until most fat is rendered out
and skin is nicely browned and
crisp. You may have to turn down
heat to keep skin from burning.
Turn and cook 3 minutes or until
meat is cooked to medium
(155°F) and still moist in center.
Just before duck is ready, heat
sauce over medium heat. Add
chives and orange zest and bring
to simmer. Whisk in butter. Taste
and adjust seasoning with salt
and pepper. Lower heat enough
to just keep sauce warm.
To Serve:
Using a very sharp knife, cut
duck breasts, on the bias, into
thin slices. Fan each breast, if
desired, over cous cous or
mashed sweet potatoes, with
sauce spooned over top.
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DRIED FRUIT AND NUT BREAD
STUFFING
SAVORY TURKEY HASH
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
Yield: 6 servings
Yield: enough stuffing for 1 (1620 pound) turkey
Ingredients:
12 cups dried white and/or
whole wheat bread cubes
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 cup diced onion
¼ cup diced celery
1 Tablespoon minced fresh
parsley
1 ½ cups diced dried apricots
½ cup yellow raisins
~2 cups warm turkey stock,
chicken broth or water
1 Tablespoon poultry seasoning
1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage
1 teaspoon chopped thyme
1 teaspoon chopped marjoram
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
1- 1½ cups toasted walnut
or pecan pieces
Method:
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
If not stuffing a bird, lightly
grease a large shallow baking
dish or a large casserole. Set
aside. Place the bread cubes in a
large mixing bowl.
Heat the butter in a large sauté
pan over medium heat. Add the
onions, celery and parsley. Lower
the heat and sauté for 10 minutes or until the vegetables are
very soft but not browned. Add
the apricots and raisins and
sauté for an additional 3 minutes. Add 1 cup of the stock,
poultry seasoning, sage, thyme
and marjoram and cook for 3
minutes.
Ingredients:
3 Tablespoons olive oil
1½ cups shredded cooked
potatoes
1 cup chopped onion
¼ cup chopped red bell pepper
1 head roasted garlic
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
1 teaspoon minced fresh sage
4 cups chopped cooked
turkey meat
1- 1½ cups leftover turkey gravy
Method:
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Heat the oil in a heavy oven-proof
frying pan (cast iron is great)
over medium heat. Add the potatoes, onions and bell pepper and
sauté for about 5 minutes or
until the potatoes are beginning
to take on some color and the
onions and bell pepper are very
soft. Stir in the roasted garlic,
thyme and sage and sauté for
another minute. Add the turkey
and enough turkey gravy to moisten nicely and stir until well-combined.
Using a spatula, pack the hash
down into the pan. Place in the
preheated oven and bake for 20
minutes or until the bottom is
brown and the top is nicely crusted. Remove from the oven and
allow to rest for 5 minutes. Cut
into wedges and serve.
Breast of Duck with Citrus
Sauce and Mixed Fruit
JAN BIRNBAUM
Catahoula - Calistoga, CA
Cut the bird in parts to cook it. This
reduces cooking time dramatically. Bone the breast completely,
TIP
then remove the legs and
thighs together. That leaves
the backbone, which I roast
with the rest because it is the
perfect snack.
#1
PAUL KAHAN
Blackbird - Chicago, IL
Don't let carry-over cooking ruin your
bird. Poultry needs to be cooked to
150ºF to be considered safe to eat. If
you leave it in the oven and allow it to
cook to a temperature much
higher than that, you risk a dry
TIP
over-cooked turkey. Take the
bird out when it reaches 145ºF
(but not lower) and let it continue to "cook" while it rests outside of the oven.
#2
SAM HAYWARD
Fore Street - Portland, ME
Effective brining improves the texture of
turkey, especially in the breast meat.
Brining has become a popular method of
preparing turkeys, but many brine recipes
are too light to produce the result they
promise. Combine 12 oz. kosher salt and
27 oz. sugar in a clean stockpot. Add
enough cold water to make 5 gallons of brine, and stir to dissolve the sugar and salt.
TIP
Remove giblets from turkey
breast. Immerse turkey breast
and legs in brine, weight with a
ceramic plate to keep fully submerged,
and cure turkey in refrigerator about 8
hours.
#3
Pour the mixture over the bread
cubes, tossing to combine well.
Add salt and pepper to taste and
enough warm stock to make a
moist but not wet mixture. Toss
in the nuts.
Either use the mixture to stuff a
bird (see note below) or place
into the prepared baking dish or
casserole and place in the preheated oven. Bake for about 35
minutes or until the top is crusty
and the stuffing is hot in the
center.
tips
turkey
BRADLEY OGDEN
The Lark Creek Inn - Larkspur, CA
For a flavorful turkey, place the stuffing
inside the bird and place whole fresh
sage leaves and melted butter underneath the skin. Preheat oven to 525ºF
and roast turkey 25 minutes. This will
give the skin a beautiful golden
color and a crisp texture. Then,
TIP
turn the heat down to 250ºF and
continue to cook approximately
½ hour per pound.
#4
Savory Turkey Hash
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StarChefs
uncorked
Christmas Goose and Caber net?:
Choose the perfect wines to
complement your holiday feast
By Kylene Keith
Good food and good wine go
hand in hand during the holidays. It's criminal to slave over
a hot stove without the reward
of a delicious wine to savor with
the fruits of your culinar y labor.
The holidays can be stressful,
though, and the last thing the
cook wants to think about is the
wine when there are roasts and
soufflés to worr y about.
We've done all of the planning for you and
compiled a list of our top wine choices to
ser ve with dishes perfect for spring suppers. Even better, all of the wines on our
list cost $15 or less. The upcoming holidays provide a good excuse to experiment
with new and interesting wines, and we
think that this list is a good place to star t.
1. E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone
2000 Rhone, France $9.95
This is a fabulous wine to
have on hand for those occasions when you want a red
wine with ripe fr uit flavor s
and an ear thy quality. It is
well-balanced with enough
body and str ucture to handle
this leg of lamb. Made from
one of the top producer s in
the Rhone Valley, this wine is
a crowd-pleaser and a musthave for any holiday meal.
RECIPE PAIRING: M A R K
PEEL’S THE BEST LEG OF
LAMB
2. Paringa Shiraz 2001
Australia $10.95
It doesn't get much bigger or
bolder than this Australian
Shiraz for under $15. It has
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H O L I D AY I S S U E •
StarChefs
the luscious fr uit, the smoky
meatiness, and the exotic
spice to rival many wines
costing twice as much.
Shiraz is a good choice for
full-flavored meats such as
beef and dar k game. This
dish by Jody Adams is overflowing with robust flavor s
and needs a big and bold
wine with equally powerful
flavor s. Syrah is a grape that
is often described as pepper y both on the nose and
the palate. The black pepper
sauce will accentuate these
characteristics and unite the
entire meal.
RECIPE PAIRING: JODY ADAMS’
PROVENÇAL-BRAISED BEEF
WITH ORANGE AND BLACK
OLIVES
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3. Mionetto Prosecco di
Valdobbiandene NV Veneto,
Italy $14.59
A list of holiday wines wouldn't be complete without a
spar kling wine. This crisp
and lively Prosecco has an
enticing floral aroma with distinct hints of citr us and apricot. It's fr uity and refreshing
and ser ves as a delightful
aperitif. Spar kling wine is
also an especially good
match for any type of fried
food. The effer vescent nature
wakes up your palate and
acts as a great foil for deepfried delights.
RECIPE PAIRING: E M E R I L
LAGASSE'S FRIED OYSTERS
WITH TOMATO CORN SAUCE
Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio
2001 Venezia, Italy $17.99
This is a Pinot Grigio like no
other. It's full-bodied, rich
and complex. Let it sit in the
glass for a few minutes and
aromas of peaches and
oranges will slowly emerge.
The peach and orange aromas are confir med on the
palate with a touch of nuttiness and a gorgeous caramel
finish. This is a stunning
wine for richer seafood dishes or poultr y.
RECIPE PAIRING: B R A D L E Y
OGDEN'S BUTTER BASTED
ROAST TURKEY
BV Rutherford Caber net
Sauvignon 1999 Napa Valley,
Califor nia $18.99
This Califor nia Caber net is
powerful and concentrated
with flavor s of black cher ries,
blackber ries and a touch of
mint. This full-bodied wine
has ripe tannins and a long ,
elegant finish. The oak lends
some vanilla spice without
being too over powering . It's a
fantastic choice to pair with
dar k game, beef, lamb and
cheeses.
RECIPE PAIRING: D A R I N A
ALLEN'S MICHAELMAS
GOOSE WITH TRADITIONAL
POTATO & APPLE STUFFING
FOR THESE AND OTHER RECIPES GO TO
WWW.STARCHEFS.COM
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4. USE WINE TO SET THE
MOOD. WHAT IS THE OCCA S I O N ? Romance =
Wine
Champagne; Comfor t,
War mth, Power = Caber net
Sauvignon; Hot Summer
Days, Casual = Chardonnay
or Sauvignon Blanc.
tips
Wine of
the month
5. BE WEATHER CON SCIOUS. REDS IN WINTER,
W H I T E S I N S U M M E R . But
you don't always have to
stick to the r ules. A nice
summer night complete with
poultr y and Pinot Noir, for
example.
6. WHEN STORING WINES
THE RULES WORK. 58-60
D E G R E E C E L L A R S . Always
on their sides. Always ser ve
wines at proper temperatures. If you have to, it's ok
to put your reds in the refrigerator 15 minutes ahead of
time to give them a nice
place to star t.
with Eric Scheffer
7. I PERSONALLY COLLECT
WINES THAT HAVE A SHELF
L I F E O F 5 - 1 5 Y E A R S . Stick
1. CONSULT YOUR
FAVORITE WINE SHOP OR
L O C A L R E S T A U R A N T . Stay
with the independents. They
are the ones who will take
the time to get to know you
and your likes and dislikes.
Be honest and let them know
your wine knowledge. We love
to help create more wine
drinker s.
2. HAVE A PRICE POINT IN
MIND. YOU CAN FIND
G O O D , D R I N K A B L E wines in
any price range. Expensive
does not always mean better.
to names that have stood the
test of time: Araujo, Har lan,
Tur ley, Gaja, Conter no,
Trinoro, Penfolds Grange,
Grand Cr u Bordeaux, and
Catena Zapata. Have fun with
other wines that you will pull
out within 1-5 year s.
8. REMEMBER, HAVE FUN.
YOU CAN'T MAKE A MIS TAKE AND YOU DON'T HAVE
TO SPEND A LOT OF
M O N E Y . Ask, ask, ask - tr ue
wine lover s love to educate
and are ver y helpful. Become
friends with your local wine
shop owner.
3. GO OFF THE BEATEN
P A T H . Look for gems from
South America, Italy,
Australia, and Spain. Wines
from these regions are generally great buys.
12
H O L I D AY I S S U E •
StarChefs
Eric Scheffer is the owner
and sommelier of Savoy
Cucina Italiana in
Asheville, Nor th Carolina
Ernest and
Julio Gallo
Tw i n Va l l ey
White
Zinfandel
Description
This Califor nian wine is light,
pink and has pleasant floral
aromas, fresh strawber r y and
juicy peach flavor s, and a
delicate finish.
Food & Wine Suggestion
White Zinfandels are ver satile enough to be enjoyed
with just about any dish. Tr y
it with a range of fare from
tur key to chicken salad or
enjoy it with simple appetizer s such as br uschetta or
oyster s on the half shell.
QUESTION:
Is White Zinfandel made
from red or white grapes?
Submit your answer at
www.starchefs.com/wineofthemonth
The fir st cor rect entr y drawn
will win a bottle of the Ernest
and Julio Gallo Twin Valley
White Zinfandel. Usual contest rules apply.
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what to eat and where to stay:
SouthBeach
A FOOD LOVER'S GUIDE
TO
What to do: Soak up the sun
on the rooftop patio, take a
dip in the emerald-shaped
pool, or get a massage in
one of the poolside cabanas.
Details: 801 Collins Avenue,
Miami Beach, Florida 33139.
Tel: 305.531.2222, 877.THEHOTEL / 877.843.4683; Fax:
305.531.3222; www.thehotelofsouthbeach.com.
Credit Cards: AM, DC, MC, V,
Diner's Club. Par king: 24hour Valet ser vice: $18; Selfpar king (1 block from hotel):
$10.70.
The
Hotel
Miami is the countr y's hottest
new culinar y oasis. Go to the
hear t of the action with this stellar lineup of hotels and restaurants in South Beach.
HOTELS
T H E H O T E L (for mer ly The
Tiffany Hotel) is the place for
the fashion-conscious to see
and be seen. The Hotel is
the pet project of fashion
designer Todd Oldham, former fashion industr y executive Jessica Goldman
Srebnick, and father Tony
Goldman, an urban developer
and preser vationist. The
Hotel is a hip hangout with a
great location - one block
from Ocean Drive's strip of
restaurants and bar s, and
one block from the ocean.
Rates: 1/1/03 - 4/30/03:
$275; 5/1/03 - 12/20/03:
$255
Rooms: 53 units
14
H O L I D AY I S S U E •
StarChefs
The Sagamore Hotel
T H E A S T O R is a chic boutique hotel that prides itself
on its relaxing ambiance - the
double-insulated walls, down
pillows, muted color scheme,
and mood lighting with dimmer switches ensure a
serene and luxurious escape
from the stresses of ever yday
life. The Astor is also easy
on the pocketbook, with
some of the lowest rates in
the South Beach area.
Rates: 1/1/03 - 4/19/03:
$165; 4/20/03 - 5/31/03:
$155; 6/1/03 - 10/15/03:
$145; 10/16/03 12/27/03: $155; Additional
per son: $30
Rooms: 40 units
What to do: Sink into the luxurious down pillows and
dream away.
Details: 956 Washington
Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida
33139. Tel: 305.531.8081;
Fax: 305.531.3193;
www.hotelastor.com. Credit
Cards: AM, MC, V, Diner's
Club. Par king: 24-hour Valet
ser vice: $20.
If your idea of an ideal vacation involves rolling out of
bed and onto the beach,
head to T H E W I N T E R H A V E N
H O T E L , located directly
across the street from the
ocean. Most of the guest
rooms offer ocean views, so
even if you're seeking respite
from the searing Miami sun,
you can still enjoy that view.
The WinterHaven's Ar t Decoinspired interior and streamlined design are reminiscent
of Miami's high style, highluxur y era of the 1930s.
Rates: 1/1/03 - 1/31/03:
$139; 2/1/03 - 4/15/03:
$149; 4/16/03 - 6/1/03:
$109; 6/2/03 - 10/31/03:
$99; 11/1/03 - 12/29/03:
$139
Rooms: 65 units
What to do: Head out the
door and hit the beach, or
relax in the comfor t of your
room and enjoy the view.
Details: 1400 Ocean Drive,
Miami Beach, Florida 33139.
Tel: 305.531.5571,
800.395.2322; Fax:
305.538.6387; www.winterhavenhotelsobe.com. Credit
Cards: AM, DC, MC, V, Diner's
Club. Par king: 24-hour Valet
ser vice: $18.
T H E S A G A M O R E H O T E L is a
chic, trendy boutique hotel
with an eye for moder n ar t
and a crisp minimalist aesthetic. The Sagamore has its
own moder n ar t and photography galler y, as well as
paintings and sculptures in
just about ever y room on the
proper ty. From the pool there
is a dazzling view of both
surf and sky - The Sagamore
Hotel is located directly on
the water, though it is a bit
of a walk from the main drag .
Rates: 1/1/03 - 5/31/03:
$300; 6/1/03 - 10/31/03:
$225; 11/1/03 - 12/31/03:
$300
Rooms: 93 units
What to do: Unwind in your
whir lpool bath-shower - located in ever y room - or check
out the famous "Ocean Front
Zero-Entr y Infinity Edge
Pool."
Details: 1671 Collins Avenue,
Miami, Florida 33139. Tel:
305.535.8088; Fax:
305.535.8185; www.sagamorehotel.com. Credit
Cards: AM, DC, MC, V, Diner's
Club. Par king: 24-hour Valet
ser vice: $20.
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R E S TA U R A N T S
M E T R O K I T C H E N , located in
The Astor hotel, is an experience unto itself, showcasing
Chef Rob Boone's latest creations through an exquisite
menu with elegant presentation.
The food: Chef Rob Boone
prepares fresh and tasty
Asian-inspired fare.
Recommended dishes: Duck
breast and Leg with Grilled
Apples and Fresh Spinach;
Local Snapper with Wood
Bar reled Soy, Tuna Belly with
Fresh Hor seradish; Steamed
Snapper with Udon Noodles
and XO. 305.672.6717
R U M I feels like an upscale
disco, with a trendy clientele
and huge lights suspended
from the ceiling . If you're
interested in the South
Beach scene, this is the
place to check out.
The food: Rumi is the place
to go if you're ready to par ty
- and have tasty snacks along
the way.
Recommended dishes:
Salmon Tar tar with Key
Limes, Black Olives and
Crispy Potato Sticks; Key
Lime Tar t with Brazil Nut
Cr ust; Stone Crab Salad with
Roast Tomato, Tomato Jelly,
Baby Mustard Greens and
Mustardy Crème Fraîche;
Lobster Bisque.
305.627.4353
L A B R O C H E and Chef Angel
Palacios are relative newcomer s to the South Beach dining scene. Dining at this
5:46 PM
Page 15
restaurant is an experience this is not a repeat of the
Chilean Sea Bass prepared
for the umpteenth time.
The food: Each dish is delicately prepared with creativity and precision, from the
cocktail to the desser t.
Recommended dishes:
Eggplant Soup with Cheese
Foam and Tomato Sauce;
Mojama with Bread and
Tomato; Gratin Mushrooms;
Rockfish with Sautéed Spring
Onions and Pink Pepper ; Por k
Cheeks and Sautéed
Vegetables; Coffee with Milk
and Almond Muffins with
Butter. 305.415.0070
N E M O Chef Michael Sabin
and Pastr y Chef Hedy
Goldsmith are a dream team,
packing a one-two punch that
satisfies both sweet and
savor y cravings to the fullest.
The food: The menu's savor y
selections, each as appetizing as the next, are balanced
by equally appealing desser t
offerings.
Recommended dishes: Gar lic
Cured Salmon Rolls; Crispy
Prawn Salad; Spicy
V ietnamese Beef Salad;
Whole Pompano with
Lemongrass; White Chocolate
Cream and Bing Cher r y
Napoleon; Meyer Lemon Trio.
305.532.4550
A Z U L Chef Michelle
Ber nstein adventurous menu
shows a broad ar ray of wor ld
culinar y influences.
The food: From Malaysia
(Cur r y Stewed Vegetables) to
Korea (kim chee) to Italy
(Sicilian Olive-Tomato Sec
and Polenta), the menu is
exciting and diver se.
Recommended dishes: "Shor t
Rib Burger" with Tr uffle Fries;
Duck Confit; Foie Gras
Torchon. 305.913.8258
B I S C A Y A G R I L L has elegant
cuisine and impeccable ser vice (there are even little
stool for pur ses).
The food: Chef Willis
Loughhead, the master mind
behind the food, ser ved his
ver sion of classic, Frenchinspired fare with grace and
creativity.
Recommended dishes:
Seared Foie Gras on
Caramelized Pear, with a
taste of "Doktorenhof" vinegar ; Smoked Duck with
Rabbit Confit; Grand Mar nier
Soufflé. 305.644.4675
W I S H , The Hotel's restaurant, and one of Miami's
hottest new culinar y additions. Chef Michael Reidt
combines French-Brazilian
food with Per sian-inspired
décor and a lush, garden setting .
The food: Reidt's menu has a
lot of unusual selections, like
quinoa, seared water melon,
avocado hollandaise, and his
Blueber r y-Lemon Thyme
Glaze.
Recommended dishes:
Braised Beef Shor t Rib
"Chur rasco;" Rioja Braised
Veal Cheeks; Peekytoe Crab
Salad; Winter Squash Soup;
Tr uffled Taro Root Ravioli with
braised "rabada" (oxtail).
305.531.2222
Wish
StarChefs
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Wedding
entertaining U
no-mess, no-stress
By Siobhan Flaher ty and Jane Miller Renner t
1. D O U B L E C H E C K E V E R Y T H I N G . Call all of your major
vendor s (caterer, photographer, band, etc.) at regular
inter vals just to check in monthly or bi-monthly if
you're planning a year or
more ahead, but in the final
weeks tr y to touch base
weekly. Even if you don't
have anything new to tell
them going over the details
again and again will ensure
that any miscommunications
will be caught ahead of time
and you will know ever y
detail by hear t as you
approach the big day.
KNOW WHEN TO GIVE
I N . We're not sure why, but
2.
We may be a bit jaded, but we still
get misty when we witness two people
pledging their commitment in front
of those that they care about. Weddings
are not just a rite of passage; a wedding
is the ultimate way to demonstrate love
and (in our minds) an excuse to throw
the biggest, most extravagant and most
expensive par ty you will ever have.
Planning your wedding can be the most wonderful and the
most stressful experience imaginable. There's something
about weddings that unear ths the most deep seeded insecurities in otherwise happy and content people. Ever yone has
heard hor ror stories about brides who go off the deep end
and become raving &!@!$#*&!@!!! on their wedding day. (In
our wedding planning experience we've never seen such a
creature, but if, in fact, they do exist we are sure they are
driven to it by some over ly demanding future in-law.)
There's already so much written about the nuts and bolts of
how to plan a wedding (how to create a budget, when to hire
the band, how to do the seating char t, etc.), so the following
tips are more for your general peace of mind and to help you
to feel confident and in control on your wedding day.
16
H O L I D AY I S S U E •
StarChefs
weddings tend to bring out
the wor st in people, especially the parents of the
bride and groom. Choose
your battles wisely. Don't
compromise on the things
that are MOST impor tant to
you, but bend a little on less
impor tant issues to make
your future in-laws happy.
Remember, your wedding is
one day, but you have to live
with these people for the
rest of your (or their) lives.
3. S H A R E T H E J O Y . Not to
per petuate male stereotypes,
but we find grooms frequently do not want to par take in
the wedding planning
process! Do not expect anyone, even your future
spouse, to be willing to discuss chicken ver sus salmon
or lilies of the valley ver sus
roses for eight hour s a day.
However, dividing up the
tasks, sharing half the
responsibility each, will ease
the burden.
4. S T A Y O N B U D G E T . Before
you even begin planning you
need to figure out how much
money you can comfor tably
spend and a rough estimation of how many people will
attend. This will help you to
intelligently deter mine ever y
choice you make about your
wedding . Once you've figured
out your budget stick to it.
Though $10,000 wor th of
flower s decorating the aisle
may sound beautiful, it's not
wor th being indebted to your
credit card company for the
next 10 year s. Remember,
you and your spouse may
want to buy a house or have
children in the future.
YOU CAN'T CONTROL
T H E W E A T H E R . In other
5.
words, not ever y detail of the
event will tur n out the way
you envisioned it. It may
pour ; your brother may get
too dr unk to give a toast (or
wor se he gives the toast anyway); the cake may be yellow, not "cream"; you may
trip during your fir st dance.
There isn't much you can do
to prevent these sor ts of
problems from arising , but
your reaction to these problems will make a big difference. If you have a great
sense of humor and focus on
enjoying the day so will your
guests.
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K¦d
Cooking with
F O O D + F A M I LY = F U N !
MEXICAN TORTILLAS WITH BLACK BEANS AND SALSA FRESCA
From Cooking Time is Family Time
by Lynn Fredericks, William Mor row, August 1999
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
Y ield: 8 tor tillas
This is a recipe I learned from a
Mexican mom who came to P.S. 61
to demonstrate the preparation of
homemade corn tor tillas. It seemed
miraculous to the children and me
that the fine yellow masa four
mixed with just a bit of water
would, within a few seconds, be
transformed into yummy tor tillas to
fill with whatever we chose. The
only tricky par t about making tortillas is to be sure to get the consistency of the dough just right. It
will just take practice, trial and
er ror. Mas harina flour is inexpensive just as wheat flour. It is available in Latin markets or, since blue
corn masa is increasingly available
in health and specialty stores, you
can buy blue corn masa - they
make wonderful tor tillas. Masa
flour is not the same as cornmeal;
cornmeal is not ground finely
enough for tor tillas.
Ingredients:
For the Tor tillas:
1-1/2 cup and two Tablespoons
water
1
cup masa harina
For the Beans:
1/4 cup olive oil
2
cans black beans, drained
2
teaspoon dry epazote or
oregano
Kosher salt to taste
For the Salsa Fresca:
2
tomatoes, diced
1/3 bunch scallions
1
small bunch cilantro,
minced
Kosher salt to taste
Gar nish:
Shredded lettuce and grated
Monterey Jack cheese (optional)
Equipment:
Tortilla press or plastic wrap covering a cutting board and a bottom of a large and heavy pot
wrapped in plastic wrap
To make the tor tillas:
1. Have children place masa
and the one and one-half
water in a mixing bowl. Mix
well, adding 1 tablespoon
more water as needed until
mixture for ms a dough. Now
have the children divide the
dough into 8 equal little
balls. This offer s a great
math lesson in fractions.
Star t out with the dough in
one large ball. Next help kids
to cut it in half, then cut the
halves in one half and so
for th until you have 8 equal
pieces. Now let the kids roll
each piece into a ball. Press
each ball into the tor tilla
maker between sheets of
plastic (or place ball on covered board and press down
with bottom of covered pot).
Cover the remaining dough to
keep moist. Continue this
process until all 8 tor tillas
are made, lining them up
individually on a cutting
board or counter.
2. Heat a large skillet - cast
iron if possible. Gently
remove one tor tilla at a time
and cook in the ungreased
skillet for about 20 seconds
on each side - do this three
times. Cover finished tortillas to keep them war m.
To make the filling:
In a medium-sized saucepan,
place the oil and heat over
medium-high heat. Let the
children help you open the
cans of beans, with parents
removing the shar p lids. Let
kids pour the beans (do not
drain) directly from the can
into the pot with oil. Add
seasonings. If you don't have
epazote (an herb which is
available dried in Latino groceries) use dried oregano.
Cook until soft, gently mashing the beans with a wooden
spoon.
To make the salsa fresca:
1. Have older children help
dice tomatoes and chop the
scallions with super vision.
Meanwhile, have little ones
pluck the cilantro leaves
from their stems and tear
the leaves into tiny pieces,
discarding stems.
2. Next have kids combine
tomatoes, scallions and
cilantro in a mixing bowl and
combine thoroughly. Season
to taste with kosher salt.
To ser ve:
Have each family member
spoon some beans inside
their tor tilla, top with shredded lettuce, salsa fresca and
even some grated cheese, if
they so desire.
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Quick
MEALS
This week, StarChefs brings
Bobby Flay to your kitchen.
RECIPES:
MONDAY
EAR-SHAPED PASTA WITH MORELS,
GREEN PEAS, AND SWEET ONIONS
TUESDAY
PAN-FRIED RAINBOW TROUT WITH
PECANS AND BROWN BUTTER
SEARED CHICKEN BREAST WITH
BLACK PEPPER-SWEET MUSTARD
GLAZE
WEDNESDAY
PAN-ROASTED FILET MIGNON WITH
RUM-RED CHILE SAUCE
THURSDAY
BLACK BEAN RISOTTO
FRIDAY
This flaming red-haired boy from Manhattan
knew at a tender age that he had a knack for
making food taste vibrant and wasted no time
delving into a culinar y career. A graduate of
the French Culinar y Institute, Bobby Flay is
the owner of Mesa Grill and Bolo Restaurant
in New York City. He appears regularly on
CBS's The Early Show and Hot Off the Grill
with Bobby Flay and FoodNation on the Food
Network. With Bobby as your guide, get cooking!
20
H O L I D AY I S S U E •
StarChefs
M EAR-SHAPED PASTA WITH MORELS,
GREEN PEAS, AND SWEET ONIONS
O Bobby Flay Cooks American
by Bobby Flay, Hyperion 2001
N ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
D Y ield: 4 ser vings
A Ingredients:
olive oil
Y 31 tablespoons
pound fresh mushrooms (you can use
white buttons, criminis, morels or a mix
of mushrooms)
2
sweet onions, such as Vidalia, peeled,
halved, and thinly sliced
1
cup dry white wine
2
cups canned vegetable stock
1
cup fresh or thawed frozen peas
1
pound ear shaped pasta, cooked until
just slightly underdone and drained
1
cup pasta water reserved
2
tablespoons each finely chopped fresh
mint and flat-leaf parsley
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese,
plus extra for serving
Method:
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over
high heat. Add the mushrooms, season
with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring , until lightly browned. Transfer to a
plate. Add the onions to the pan and
cook, stir ring , until soft. Add the wine
and cook until all the liquid evaporates. Add the vegetable stock and
cook until reduced by half. Add the
peas and cook for 2 minutes. Whisk in
the butter and season with salt and
pepper.
Add the pasta to the pan along with
the mushrooms, herbs, and cheese,
and stir until combined, adding some
of the reser ved pasta liquid if needed.
Cover and cook over low heat for 2
minutes. Ser ve with more grated
cheese.
T PAN-FRIED RAINBOW TROUT WITH
PECANS AND BROWN BUTTER
U Bobby Flay Cooks American
by Bobby Flay, Hyperion 2001
E ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
S Y ield: 4 ser vings
D Ingredients:
all pur pose flour
A 23 cups
large eggs
Y 3 tablespoons milk
2
4
6
2
cups cor nmeal, preferably white
trout fillets
tablespoons vegetable oil
sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter
Grated zest and freshly squeezed
juice of 2 lemons
1/2 cup finely chopped pecans
1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf par sley
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Method:
Place the flour in a bowl and season
with salt and pepper. Whisk the eggs
and milk together in a large bowl and
season with salt and pepper. Place the
cor nmeal in a bowl and season with
salt and pepper.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees
Fahrenheit. Season the fillets with salt
and pepper to taste. One at a time, dip
each piece into the flour, then in the
egg mixture, then in the cor nmeal. Set
aside on a rack. F inish breading trout.
Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a
large skillet until smoking . Wor king in
batches to avoid crowding the pan,
cook the trout until just golden brown
on both sides (it will finish cooking
later in the recipe). When half of the
pieces have been cooked, add the
remaining oil and heat it almost to
smoking before continuing . As the
pieces are browned, transfer them to a
large baking sheet. When all the
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pieces are browned, place the baking
sheet in the oven and bake 5-6 minutes, until just cooked through.
While the trout is baking , make the
brown butter : Melt the butter in a nonstick skillet over medium high heat.
Watching carefully and lowering the
heat if necessar y, let the butter foam
up and tur n golden brown. When the
white milk solids brown and the butter
smells nutty, immediately stir in the
lemon juice, zest, and salt and pepper
to taste. Stir in the pecans and par sley.
To ser ve, place the trout on ser ving
plates and pour the hot browned butter
over. Ser ve immediately.
W SEARED CHICKEN BREAST WITH
BLACK PEPPER-SWEET MUSTARD
E GLAZE
Flay Cooks American
D Bobby
by Bobby Flay, Hyperion 2001
N ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
E Y ield: 4 ser vings
S Ingredients:
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
D 2 tablespoons whole grain mustard
2
tablespoons honey
A 2 tablespoons coarsely cracked black
pepper
Y 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme
2
pound bone-in and skin-on chicken
breasts
Salt
Method:
Make the glaze: Combine the mustards, honey, black pepper, and thyme
in a medium bowl and season with
salt.
T
H
U
R
S
D
A
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Page 21
PAN-ROASTED FILET MIGNON WITH
RUM-RED CHILE SAUCE
From my Kitchen to your Table
by Bobby Flay, Clar kson Potter 1998
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
Y ield: 4 ser vings
Ingredients:
1
tablespoon butter
2
shallots, minced
1/2 tablespoon minced garlic
1/2 cup Meyers's dark rum
2
cups chicken stock
1
tablespoon ancho puree
1
tablespoon molasses
4
filet mignon steaks, about 8 ounces
each
1
tablespoon butter
Salt and pepper
Method:
Melt the butter in a saucepan over
medium-high heat and sweat the shallots and gar lic. Add the r um, bring to a
boil, and reduce to 1/3 cup.
Add the stock, bring to a boil, and
reduce the heat. Whisk in the remaining ingredients until reduced to 2
cups. May be refrigerated up to 2 days;
reheat with a little water and re-season.
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees and
season the steaks to taste with salt
and pepper. In an ovenproof skillet or
sauté pan over medium heat, melt the
butter and seat the steaks on one side
about 3 minutes. Place in the oven and
cook until desired doneness.
Place the steaks on a ser ving platter
and drizzle with the r um-red chile
sauce. Ser ve any extra sauce on the
side.
Make the chicken: Preheat the oven to
400 degrees. Heat a medium ovenproof
skillet over high heat until almost
smoking . Season the breast on both
sides with salt and pepper. Place the
breast skin-side down in the pan and
cook until the skin is golden brown.
Drain off the fat. Tur n the breast over,
place the pan in the oven, and continue cooking until no pink remains,
about 12-15 minutes.
As soon as the chicken comes out of
the oven, br ush it liberally with the
mustard glaze. Let rest for about 10
minutes then slice the meat and ser ve
immediately.
• H O L I D AY I S S U E
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QuickMEALS
THIS WEEK’S
SHOPPING LIST:
BLACK BEAN RISOTTO
F From
My Kitchen To Your Table
R by Bobby Flay, Clar kson Potter
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
I
D
A
Y
1998
PRODUCE
2
1
lemons
lb.Mushrooms
(mix as you please)
Spanish onion
sweet onions (Vidalia)
shallots
head garlic
tube ancho puree
tube or can (specialty grocer)
bunch parsley
bunch mint
bunch thyme
1
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
Y ield: 4 ser vings
Ingredients:
2 1/2 cups canned chicken stock
1/2 cup white wine
2
tablespoons butter
1/2 large Spanish onion, diced
1/2 head of raw garlic, minced
1
cup Arborio rice
1 1/2 cups drained canned black beans
1
tablespoon honey
2
tablespoons chopped green onions
2
tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves
2
tablespoons Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper
DRY
8
1
1
1
32
16
1
1
1
2
1
oz. pecans
jar Dijon mustard
jar whole grain mustard
jar Honey Molasses
ounces chicken stock
ounces vegetable stock
can black beans
one pkg peas
(fresh, frozen or can)
pkg Arborio rice
cup corn meal
box ear shaped pasta
Method:
Combine the stock and wine in a
saucepan over medium-high heat and
bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to
medium and keep the broth simmering .
Melt the butter in a large pot over
medium-high heat and sweat the onion
and gar lic. Add the rice and toss to
coat with the butter. Cook the rice until
lightly toasted.
DAIRY
1 lb. Butter
10 oz parmesan cheese
Milk
Add 1 cup of stock and cook, stir ring ,
until it is absorbed. Repeat with a second cup. As the rice becomes dr y, add
stock in ½ cup increments, cooking
and stir ring until it is absorbed.
MEAT
lbs. Chicken breast
trout filets
steaks (filet or ribeye)
bottle white wine
(s. blanc or chardonnay
When the rice is about three-quar ter s
cooked, mix in the beans, honey, green
onions, and cilantro. Continue cooking ,
adding broth as needed, until al dente
and creamy, with a little liquid in the
bottom of the pot.
2
4
4
1
22
H O L I D AY I S S U E •
StarChefs
Season to taste with salt and pepper
and stir in the Par mesan cheese. Pour
onto a large platter and ser ve immediately.
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StarChefs
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ChocolateLovers
FOR
O N LY
Hi! My name is Stephanie Zonis, and welcome to this week's edition of "For
Chocolate Lovers Only". Ever y week, you'll
find recipes, tips, and recommendations on
great chocolate specialties. Let's get into
the kitchen with this week's recipe for
We n d y ' s H o n e y - C h o c o l a t e S a u c e !
24
H O L I D AY I S S U E •
StarChefs
First, a note about my wonderful friend Wendy. She is a truly
amazing woman who lives in a
world that revolves around rare
books/manuscripts, medieval
music, cats, her charming
fiancé, and good food-especially good chocolate. She kept
telling me that she had a
recipe for a garlic-honey-chocolate sauce, a statement I flatly
refused to believe. But the
recipe does exist, because it
arrived via e-mail one fine
morning. I spent 12 days carefully steeping raw garlic cloves
in honey as par t of the preparation for making the sauce.
Despite the promise contained
in the recipe that the finished
product would not shout "garlic!", it did…and I want to tell
you there is nothing weirder on
the taste buds than a chocolate sauce that is powerfully
redolent of that herb!
That experiment produced a
valuable by-product, because I
set out to prove that a chocolate-honey sauce without garlic
could be much pleasanter, and
I think I've succeeded. For a
simple and delicious springtime desser t, ser ve this, gently warmed, over vanilla ice
cream with strawberries. You
must use the best-quality bittersweet chocolate you can
find (remember, if it isn't
smooth in bar form, it won't be
smooth in the finished product, either). Despite the use of
honey, the sauce is not par ticularly sweet, although you can
adjust the amount of honey to
taste. You'll want to use a
light honey for this-orange
blossom, clover, or a light wildflower would all be fine choices. Once made, the sauce will
keep for at least a week in the
fridge, but freezing it adversely
affects the texture.
WENDY'S HONEYCHOCOLATE SAUCE
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
Y ield: About 1 cup
Ingredients:
4
ounces best-quality bittersweet chocolate, very finely
chopped
1
Tablespoon unsalted butter,
cut into small bits
Pinch of salt
1/2 cup heavy cream
2
Tablespoons mild, light
honey
Method:
In small heatproof bowl, combine chocolate, butter bits,
and salt. Set aside.
In small, heavy-bottomed
saucepan over low heat, heat
cream until ver y hot, stir ring
often. Remove from heat;
immediately pour about half
of hot cream over chocolate.
Allow to stand for a minute
or two, then stir or whisk
gently until smooth. Add
remaining cream in three
additions, stir ring gently
after each until mixture is
smooth. Stir in honey. Cool
briefly, then chill, covering
tightly when cold.
To ser ve: Scrape only as
much sauce as you'll use
into a small heatproof bowl
(repeated re-chilling and
reheating of sauce can
make it grainy). Place over
simmering water on low
heat (water should not
touch bottom of bowl); stir
only until melted and war m.
Remove from heat and hot
water. (Alter natively, scrape
amount of sauce needed
into microwaveable bowl.
Microwave at 50% (medium)
power for ver y shor t intervals, stir ring thoroughly
after each, just until melted
and war m).
Ser ve as desired. Sauce will
harden somewhat over ice
cream or sorbet.
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Celebrated pastr y chef and chocolatier
Jacques Tor res shares his recipe for a
springtime holiday favorite, and a few tips
for making spectacular desser ts at home.
sweet spot
MA R S H M A L L OWS
MARSHMALLOWS
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
Y ield: About 54 pieces
Ingredients:
3
envelopes powdered gelatin
1/3 cup water
1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
1/4 cup light corn syrup
6
large egg whites
1 to 2 drops liquid food coloring,
if desired
1 to 2 drops flavored oil, if
desired
3/4 cup powdered sugar
3/4 cup cornstarch
Sprinkle the gelatin over ¾
cup cold water. Let the gelatin bloom until it has
absorbed all the water, about
1 minute.
1
2
3
4
TIPS
Before you star t the recipe, read it
through 2-3 times so you understand the steps and why you are
doing them.
Be sure to have all the ingredients
on hand and the best ingredients
you can afford.
Make sure you have all of the
equipment the recipe asks for.
When you make the recipe remember that you are not a professional
so it will take some time to make
the desser t. You have to plan for
this time. This is a commitment.
Allow yourself the entire afternoon
to bake so you can do it right.
Pastr y is something you plan in
advance and have to think about.
It's like building.
Jacques Tor res
Pour the water, granulated
sugar, and cor n syr up into a
2-quar t heavy-bottomed
saucepan and place over
medium heat. When bubbles
star t to for m around the edge
of the pan, inser t a candy
ther mometer into the mixture.
it around until it is melted,
then add it to the whipping
whites. Continue to whip
until stiff, glossy and fluffy,
about 7 minutes. The gelatin
will make the mar shmallows
lighter, hold their shape, and
give them their trademar k
elasticity.
If you would like color or flavor, add one or two drops of
food coloring or flavored oil
now.
Spray the bottom and the
sides of a parchment paper
covered baking sheet with
cooking spray to keep the
mar shmallows from sticking .
Use a large offset spatula to
spread the meringue as level
as possible, but do not
press down on it as you
spread it or the meringue
will deflate. To make the top
ver y even, rest a long r uler
on the two long sides of the
pan and slide it across the
top of the meringue.
Place the egg whites in a
large mixing bowl and whip to
stiff but not dr y peaks with
an electric mixer set on medium-high speed, about 5 minutes. Be ver y careful not to
over whip.
Combine the powdered sugar
and cor nstarch in a small
bowl. Use a fine-mesh sieve
to sprinkle most of this mixture over the top of the
meringue. Save a little for
the next step. Let the
meringue dr y for 2 to 3
hour s at room temperature.
The boiling sugar will be
ready when it reaches 240 to
250 degrees Fahrenheit, or
115 to 121 degrees Celcius.
Once it reaches that temperature remove it immediately
from the heat and pour it into
the whipping egg whites,
being careful to pour it
against the sided of the bowl
so it doesn't fly out when it
hits the whip. Place the gelatin into the pot you just
cooked the sugar in and swir l
Lightly dust your wor k surface with the powdered sugar
mixture. Inver the meringue
onto the wor k surface and
remove the parchment paper.
Use a shar p chef's knife to
cut the mar shmallow into
desired sizes. It will be easier to cut if you dip the knife
in hot water between each
cut. The mar shmallows will
keep at room temperature,
well wrapped in plastic wrap,
for up to 3 days.
StarChefs
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1O1
S TA R C H E F S
Bruising for a braising?
You've probably seen the term "braising" on menus
or in recipes, but what does it actually mean?
Braising is the process of searing food until it's brown, then cooking
it in a small amount of liquid for a long period of time. Just remember : heat the pan, add the oil, and add the food. Then brown it the
food on all sides before adding the liquid, and slow cook on ver y low
heat for several hour s until tender. Just those six basic steps are
needed for maximum flavor and tender ness. For best results, always
use a tight-fitting lid - and save room for desser t!
Cinco de Mayo is the most vibrant of Mexican
holidays. Commonly mistaken for Mexico’s
Independence Day, the holiday actually commemorates the victor y of the Mexican army
(more a militia of Mexican citizens than a
trained army) over the French army at La
Batalla de Puebla (the battle of Puebla).
A celebration of
Mexican
culture
The events of May 5th are a source of national pride: after an embattled histor y including
fighting imperialism and colonization from
many European countries, the stunning victor y
of the poor Mexican citizens over the French
army finally provided the Mexican people with
their own independent identity – they could
finally call themselves Mexicans.
On Cinco de Mayo Mexicans nor th and south
of the border celebrate their culture and heritage. Mariachi music, colorful parades, and
folklorica dancing are common celebrator y
activites, but the real anchor of the day is the
enormous native feast! Foods like tor tillas and
tamales, sopas and mole poblano are much
more traditional than the burritos and tacos
found at nor thern American celebrations. For
the children, sweets from a cracked piñata!
How will you celebrate
Cinco de Mayo?
Submit your Mexican-inspired recipe today for
a chance to win 1 of 5 copies of Tamales, a
cookbook by Mark Miller, Stephan Pyles and
John Sedlar, from Wiley Publishers. The winners will be selected on May 5, 2003.
Submit your answers on
www.starchefs.com/sweepstakes
26
H O L I D AY I S S U E •
StarChefs
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star cookbooks
COOKBOOKS FROM
S TA R C H E F S !
New Wor l d K i t c h e n :
Latin American
and Caribbean Cuisine
by Nor man Van Aken with Janet Van Aken
DEVILED LOBSTER
We asked the chef to
tell us a bit more
about his book and
his cuisine.
ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS
Y ield: 6 Ser vings
What influenced y ou in
writing this book?
Buena Vista Social Club. Much like
Ry Cooder went to Cuba for a
stripped down experience of origins of Cuban music, I went to
Latin America to commune with the
local cooks in each countr y I visited…to learn the base secrets of
the traditions of each cuisine in
order to share them in this book.
How do you see your book being
used?
An increasingly Latin American
population in Nor th America has
given us unprecedented exposure
to various Latin American cuisines
and their ingredients. My hope is
that this book will ser ve as a
roadmap for taking this new context and making great Latin-influenced food at home.
What is your favorite food region?
Why?
South America, par ticularly the
cuisines of Peru and Brazil - they
are diver se, exciting , flavorful, and
captivating .
What do you make for your family
to eat at home?
Trouble. I rely a lot on the grill. My
wife loves to cook - we share the
love of cuisine. I go to the market,
see what looks great, and come
home and improvise. I tr y to go to
the market in the morning as hungr y as possible. I shop my
appetite.
Culinar y giant Nor man Van
Aken is famous for his signature style of fusion cuisine, combining flavor s from
souther n and Latin cooking
to create distinctive dishes.
His much-anticipated four th
cookbook, New World
Kitchen: Latin American and
Caribbean Cuisine, i s a
detailed how-to guide to successfully combining ingredients from the pantr y t o
make memorable feasts of
our own. Including fascinating historical notes and
sidebar s, Chef Nor man takes
us from tapas and appetizer s to desser ts and cocktails, and even offer s a
mouthwatering chapter on
car nival and street fare.
Ingredients:
6
Spiny Lobster Tails, cooked
and diced large
(or 2 pounds cooked
shrimp)
2
ounces butter
2
Tablespoons olive oil or
canola oil
1
scotch bonnet pepper,
minced
4
scallions, green and white
parts, minced
1
red onion, diced small
1/2 bulb fennel, diced small
1
cup Spanish sherry wine
1
cup orange juice
2
cups chicken or vegetable
stock
3
tomatoes, peeled, seeded,
and chopped
1/4 cup Spanish sherry vinegar
5
eggs, hard-boiled, whites
chopped small, yolks crumbled
1/2 Tablespoon thyme leaves,
minced
2
Tablespoons all-purpose
flour
1
Tablespoon Madras curry
powder
2
cups milk, scalded
1
Tablespoon roasted garlic,
mashed
1
Tablespoon Creole mustard
2
dashes Tabasco
Kosher salt and freshly
cracked black pepper to
taste
2 c ups diced pineapple
1/3 cup unsweetened grated
coconut, toasted
Method:
Put 1 ounce of the butter and
the oil in a ver y large, heavy
bottomed, saucepan. When
the butter begins to melt add
the scotch bonnet, scallions,
onions and fennel and stir.
Cook 2 minutes until ingredients soften. Add the sher r y
and de-glaze the pan. Add
the orange juice and continue
to cook until reduced by half.
Add the stock and reduce by
half. Add the tomatoes, season with salt and pepper and
simmer for 2 minutes. Add
the vinegar and cook for 5
minutes.
Combine the lobster meat,
eggs and thyme in a bowl and
reser ve.
In a large sauté pan over low
heat melt the remaining
ounce of butter and add the
flour. Cook over low heat,
whisking , for 2 to 3 minutes
(it should star t tur ning
amber). Take off the heat and
add the cur r y and stir. Slowly
whisk in the milk and, stir
constantly, until the milk
begins to thicken (about 2
minutes). Take off the heat
and whisk in the roasted garlic, mustard and Tabasco.
Retur n the reser ved tomato
sauce to the heat, bring to a
simmer and whisk in the deviled cream sauce. Cook 2
minutes to mar r y the flavor s.
Add the lobster mixture and
pineapple. Season with salt
and pepper to taste. Spoon
the lobster cream mixture
into individual casserole
style dishes and then gar nish
each with the toasted
coconut.
Note: Spiny lobster s are
local to Florida and the
Caribbean. You can replace
the cooked lobster meat with
cooked Maine lobster, shrimp
or scallops.
StarChefs
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Cooking tips, food info, and shopping
advice from America's top chefs. Ask your
favorite celebrity chefs and food exper ts
anything and ever ything you've ever wanted to know about food and we'll get the
answer for you!
ASK
THE
Star Chefs
EMERIL
LAGASSE'S
FAVORITE FARE
28
Please submit your questions to [email protected]
TACO ADVICE
FROM BOBBY FLAY
NORMAN VAN AKEN'S
FLAVOR COMBINATIONS
Knowing that you
have a Por tuguese
background, I am
wondering what
your favorite
Por tuguese dish
is. - Dale Brown,
Springfield MO
I have a basic question: I
cannot seem to get the
right taste for my beef taco
filling . I like a really spicy
flavor, but nothing over powering . Any suggestions?
Thank you in advance!
- Charlotte Stevens, Santa
Barbara CA
What are your favorite
food combinations?
Kale soup. I use
lots of fresh kale,
chorizo or
andouille sausage,
potatoes and
chicken stock. My
mom (who is
Por tuguese) used
to make it. Mom
ran the house so
we grew up eating
Por tuguese food. Emeril
Star t with onions and garlic. Then add ground
cumin, ground coriander,
ancho chile powder,
jalapeno or Ser rano pepper s, and chopped tomatoes. At the ver y end, add
some chopped fresh
cilantro. You can also
experiment with some other
dried chile powder s such
as pasilla, cascabel or
chipotle. - Bobby
H O L I D AY I S S U E •
StarChefs
Peanut Butter and Jelly
still wor ks for me!
Especially on a Ritz
cracker... I'm only kidding
- a little. Plantains and
por k is another great
one. It is in the contrast
of combinations that I am
most consistently drawn
to. I love limejuice, sugar
and fish sauce. I love
passion fr uit, honey and
sesame oil. I love roasted beef and lamb with
caramelized onions and
root vegetables. My
desser t interests are
chocolate and Mandarin
orange, as well as cur r y
and pineapple - Norman
A PAINT BRUSH
FOR MARCUS
SAMUELSSON.
What are staple
ingredients in your
kitchen?
It’s not ingredients, it’s a br ush.
It’s something I’ve
had forever, since
I was a kid. I paint
on plates, for
example. Anything
is a vehicle for me
to ser ve food on. I
use tiles or glass
bricks. I don’t buy
the most expensive china, I
design my own and
I use stuff [that
exists] in ever yday
culture and I put it
in my restaurant. Marcus
SHOPPING WITH
ALICE WATERS
What tips can you give on the
best way to shop in far mer's
mar kets for someone who's
only shopped in super mar kets.
- Har r y Gaulke, Pensacola FL
Most vendor s at far mer's markets will let you taste their
produce. Tasting the food is a
great par t of the mar ket. Also
buy small amounts of lots of
different things. This way you
can see how to cook with them
and wor k with a variety of
foods, instead of getting a lot
of one thing . I would go to the
mar ket without any expectations about what I want to eat
and cook that day. See what is
ripe and best and buy that.
Then go back and look in cookbooks to see what you can do
with it. - Alice
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StarChefs
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What’s
issues that matter
cooking?
food debates
What Goes Around Comes Around:
FOOD c a l e n d a r
29
CITY HARVEST 'S ANNUAL GALA:
THE PRACTICAL MAGIC BALL
Pier re Hotel/F ifth Avenue
New Yor k, NY
212 - 874 - 5457
www.cityhar vest.org
APRIL
19-20
FUTURES , PRE -RELEASE AND
LIBRARY TASTING : A RARE
OPPORTUNITY TO TASTE AND
PURCHASE FUTURE RELEASES
OF FATHOM , PINOT NOIR AND SYRAH
Babcock Winery/Vineyard
Lompac, CA
805 - 736 - 3886
www.backcockwinery.com
MAY
2-4
B R I L L AT -S AVA R I N R E V I S I T E D :
A N E X P L O R AT I O N O F T H E
EMERGENCE OF GASTRONOMY IN
19 T H C E N T U R Y F R A N C E
Schlesinger Librar y
10 Garden Street
Cambridge, MA
617 - 358 - 0226
bfor [email protected]
5
20
11am-2pm
EASTER BRUNCH IN THE ENGLISH
GARDENS : EXECUTIVE CHEF RYAN
SWARTHOUT 'S BRUNCH TO WELCOME
SPRING INTO THE VINEYARDS
Justin Vineyards & Winery
Paso Robles, CA
800 - 726 - 0049
[email protected]
25-27
SCOTTSDALE CELEBRITY CHEF GOLF
INVITATIONAL BENFIT: M AKE-AWISH FOUNDATION AND CHAIRED
BY BOBBY FLAY, CHEF /OWNER OF
BOLO AND MESA GRILL IN NYC
Sanctuary on Camelback
Spa & Resort/Royal Palms
Resort and Spa/Hyatt
Regency Scottsdale Resort
at Gainey Ranch
www.dineinscottsdale.com
866 - 540 - 5212
5:30 pm
T H E J A M E S B E A R D F O U N D AT I O N
AWARDS GALA
The New Yor k Mar riott
Marquis
New Yor k, NY
212 - 627-2090
13-18
THE 7TH ANNUAL NANTUCKET
W I N E F E S T I VA L
Nantucket, Massachusetts
617 - 536 - 3400
did you know...
?
RUMBLES & MURMURS – WASHINGTON, D.C.
David Hagedor n and Greggor y Hill’s new restaurant, David Greggor y, is slated to open in April.
The restaurant will feature contemporar y American
cuisine, which includes “appas,” their American
ver sion of tapas
A branch of New Yor k City’s famed Latin restaurant Rosa Mexicano will open in Tyrell Place
30
H O L I D AY I S S U E •
StarChefs
Contaminated Food and the Environment
by Nina Rubin
Most of us lear ned the basics of nutrition from that bible
of good eating: the Food Guide Pyramid. Based on its
teachings, many people think that if they focus on fr uits
and veggies and lay off the Fritos, they're doing just fine.
They are, nutritionally speaking . But these days there's
more to it than that. You know that giant salad you ate for
lunch? Aside from bestowing your body with essential vitamins and other goodies, it also probably gave you a
healthy dose of toxins.
A Wor ld of Toxins
From poisonous fish to toxic infant
for mula, toxic foods are found
throughout the wor ld, from
Argentina to the Arctic. In
Argentina, exposure to pesticides
was found to be associated with
sper m counts below the limit of
infer tility. In the South Adriatic Sea
(off of Italy), researcher s found that
fish have mercur y levels exceeding
the recommended maximum.
Mercur y is a potent brain toxin, particular ly dangerous for the unbor n
children of women eating the contaminated fish.
How about the r unoff from chemical
plants? It goes into our oceans, our
fish, and then our bellies. And what
about the toxic waste buried deep in
the ground? The waste infiltrates our
underground water sources and contaminates our soil. This is the ver y
soil that yields the grain that we
eat, and that is fed to the cattle
that we raise for meat.
Inuit infants (of the Arctic) were
recently found to have a significantly higher risk of contracting cer tain
infectious diseases. This is due to
their diet, which is rich in marine
mammal fat, and therefore per sistent organic pollutants (a group of
chemicals, such as the pesticide
dieldrin). By the way, this same
pesticide is also thought to confer
an increased risk of breast cancer.
What's more, breast cancer
patients who have high levels of
dieldrin are believed to have a
poorer likelihood of sur vival. Such
pesticides can be found in a variety
of edible products, from milk and
meat to fr uits and veggies.
Suppor t local food producer s.
What Goes Around Comes Around
You might be scratching your head
at this point, wondering how these
toxins end up in our food. The
answer is quite simple. Those pesticides that are sprayed onto our
fr uits and vegetables? They end up
on our plates and in our bodies.
What Can a Poor Boy Do?
For most people with a pulse, these
facts aren't pretty. If this infor mation hits your panic button, here are
some things that you can do:
Be an educated consumer.
Tr y your hand at politics.
The Bottom Line
It's an eye-opening and often frightening experience to realize that our
most beloved foods are not just
sources of comfor t and nourishment,
but also vehicles for toxic substances. An increasing number of
studies suppor t this fact, and the
public is star ting to get the picture:
If the planet isn't healthy, neither
are we.
More and more, people in unexpected places - like the fine dining
industr y - are facing the facts and
taking action. Chivian's effor ts and
the culinar y caper s of a group of
Boston chefs are shedding light onto
the connection between food and the
environment. And putting a new spin
on the saying: You are what you eat.
Let the debate begin.
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StarChefs
10/31/2003
6:06 PM
Page 32