Argolis PDF - Climb Greece

Barnie at Didimon in E2 Little Lizard
Climb Argolida
Inhalt
Climb Argolida ................................................................................................................................................... 1
Basics .................................................................................................................................................................. 2
Didimon .............................................................................................................................................................. 5
Pillars of the Wind .............................................................................................................................................. 8
Rock of Ages .................................................................................................................................................... 11
Flower Power .................................................................................................................................................... 14
Caves of Frachti ............................................................................................................................................... 15
Ortholithi........................................................................................................................................................... 17
Katafiki ............................................................................................................................................................. 18
Kastro Thermissia ............................................................................................................................................. 24
2
Basics
Climb ARGOLIS
Family rockclimbing in Greece
Based on Info from: Jim Titt, Hans & Jeannette Weninger
and Aris Theodoropoulos
A climbing revolution is occuring in Argolis, East
Peloponnese. The British climber Jim Titt and the
German Inge Zaczek have equipped more than 200
climbs on excellent limestone with stainless-steel
bolts. They spend a lot of time, money and patience
to develop this excellent climbing area. Lately there
are also other climbers who help to develop the
area. In autumn 2007 there were around 350 routes.
Most of the routes are single pitch; top quality sport
climbs equipped and well organised in 'Kalymnos
style'. Bolted correctly without long runouts, placing
bolts every 3 metres so that there is no danger.
Nearly all the names of the routes are written at the
start. Jim Titt realised that the development of
Argolis would offer a viable alternative to existing
sun rock venues as a holiday destination. Argolis,
Hans and Jim
located on mainland Greece, offers excellent
conditions, even in the summer, and easy access. A climbing party could combine it in one trip with other established
areas in the Peloponnese, such as Varasova, Patras
area and Lagada in the Taygetos.
Accommodation
Luxury apartments Lepitsa-sunset, Kilada,
www.lepitsa-sunset.gr.
Camping
Porto Heli, seafront, 100 m on the left of the port.
tel. & fax 27540 52060.
Hotel Rozos, Porto Heli, tel. 27540 51416, fax 51412
Camping at Kosta tel. 27540 57571 or 57113.
Beauty of the routes
Lepitsa Sunset
Quality of the route / Qualität der Route / belleza della
via / beauté de la voie:
No stars: Not expertise or incurious / uninteressant / discreta/ à oublier, peu intéressant
* Good / gut/ buona / bonne
** Very good / sehr gut / molto buona/ très bonne
*** Excellent / exzellent / ottima/ exceptionnelle
Guide-book, maps, magazine
Jim Titt wrote a complete guidebook that covers Argolis, with topos, new routes and further infos.
Now there is a second edition in English.
Address: Jim Titt, Dorfstr. 29, D-85461 Bockhorn, [email protected], oder [email protected].
KORFES Mag (Greek only) 85, page. 29, KORFES Mag 106, Page 9, KORFES Mag 126, Page 8.
KLETTERN (german only) Dec 2003/ Jun 2004. pages 54-61.
Best road map: Road Edition‚ 5 Peloponnese ISBN 960-8481-15-5 www.road.gr
3
Useful equipment
12 to 14 quickdraws for repeating routes. Rope preferably 60 meters. Some nuts on your harness are optional. A lot of
possibilities for new routes. So don’t forget your drilling machine!!
Grading:
Sportclimbs in French-style. If the route is graded under the UIAA system (I.II.III.IV etc) then it is TRAD
and you must place your own protection!!!
Climbing Season
You can generally climb all year round on Argolis, even in summer on the groups of pitches that are in the shade.
Often there is a pleasant sea breeze to make climbing pleasurable. However, the best periods are spring and autumn.
Actually, even in the winter, good sunny weather conditions are not rare.
Internet:
Basic information concerning Argolis: www.argolis.de.
Jims homeside: http://climbargolis.com
greecetravel.com/nafplio
Statistic
grading routes
3 4a-4c 5a(+) 5b(+) 5c(+) 6a(+) 6b(+) 6c(+) 7a(+) 7b(+) 7c(+) Art Proj. Trad
7 34
23
52
59
67
47
24
16
8
7
2
17
23
Argolis overview
4
Argolis East, p 5
Routes are always described from left to right when you look at the wall.
Most of the route names are written on the rock.
When there is more than one sector, the sectors are also described from left to right.
5
Didimon
Hans in F6 Massive Attack
Hans in F9 Prangster
Oros Didimon, or “Didyma” is the main crag of Argolis. Excellent access, superb rock, good orientation and magnificent
views add up to one of the best sport venues in Greece. Climbs for every level of ability and perfect access to the top
for setting up top ropes. More a technical climbing area on steep grey walls. The development so far has concentrated
on the first 250m of the cliff (sector summertime) giving around 70 routes in the 4th, 5th, 6th and 7th grades with
potential for several more in the higher grades. The next 250m of cliff offer an abundance of lines, probably in the 6th
and 7th grades and up to 40m long but has yet to be developed. A good family cliff with a number of children and
beginner routes.
ACCESS
Turn of the national road Corinth-Kosta at the summit of the pass over Didima (105km from Corinth) up the narrow
tarred road to the summit (10km). Park 50m before the radiator antennas. The cliff lies below. 1-2 min walk.
ALTITUDE
1100m above sea level.
SEASON
All year. In winter it can be very cold due to the altitude, in high summer it is possible to climb here as sector
Summertime lies in the shade after about 4 pm and there is generally a cooling breeze.
6
A
C Summer Madnes
D Wonderhold and E Nice Surprise
England
Popeye **
1
England ***
2
Pain is Love **
3
Fallen Angel ***
4
B Sun Parade
Scorpion
1
Quicky**
2
Tuesday Afternoon**
3
Sun Parade**
4
Elevation
5
Big Girls
6
C Summer Madness
Black Attack***
1
Sidewalk***
2
Diversion
3
Sam's Route***
4
Jills Route*
5
Burn**
6
Spring Thing**
7
8 Summer Madness***
8
Soul Demand (reserved project)
9
Buckshot (free project?)
10
D Wonderhold
Slant Eyes
1
Girls do it Differently*
2
Wonderhold**
3
James Juant**
4
Perfect Acoustics***
5
Children of Mycenae***
6
Easier**
7
E Nice Surprise
Sweet Sixty***
1
Little Lizard*
2
Thursdays Child
3
Smile
4
Nice Surprise***
5
Cool Move***
6
Thunder Wall**
7
Lightning***
8
6b+
6a+
6
6b
J. Titt
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
5b
6a
6a
5c+
5c
5b+
J. Titt
Hans. Weninger
J. Titt
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
6c
6c
6a+
5c
5c+
6b+
7a
7a
?
7c?
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
Jill Giles
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
Karsten Oelze
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
?
Bolted by J. Titt
5a
5b
5c
6b
7b+
6b
6a+
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
James Mitins
Carl Dawson
Ruth Dawson
Hans Weninger
6b+
6b
5a
5a
5c
6a+
5c
6a
Hans Weninger
Martin Falk
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
Hans Weninger
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
7
F Prangster
The Hots
1
Crystal Voyager
2
Oldies but Goldies**
3
Black Diamond
4
Ektonosi (expansion)***
5
Massive Attack***
6
Great White Way
7
Free project
8
Prankster***
9
Funtime**
10
Funhouse (7a with the first move direct)
11
Wave***p
12
Cave**
13
Inge's Fingers
14
G Powerline
J&J
1
Powerline
2
Teamwork
3
Fear of Goats*
4
Trouble*
5
Drilling in the Rain
6
Bad Beer
7
H Childrens Paradise (Well equiped for children)
Ginger
1
2
Teen Dream
A Funny Turn
3
Direct
4
A good Crack
5
Here Comes the Weekend
6
First Corner
7
I Jump
First Arete
1
Huggy Bear
2
Little Wall
3
Little Chimney
4
Jump
5
Hole
6
Little Crack
7
6c+
7a+
7a+
7c
7b
6c
6a+
8a?
6b
5a
6c
7c
6b
5b+
S. Titt
Karsten Oelze
?
Karsten Oelze
Thomas Michalaedes
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
Bolted by j.Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
James Mittins
Karsten Oelze
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
6a
6a
6a+
6a
6a
5c
5c
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & J. Gstoettenmayr
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
4b
5b
5a
5a
5a
4c
4c
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
4b
5c
6a
4b
6a
6b
6a+
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
J. Titt & I.Zacczek
8
Pillars of theWind
Pillars of the Wind
An interesting rock formation giving the impression that
a giant hand has thrust a lump of rock up through the
surrounding soil leaving shattered pinnacles and crazily
leaning giant boulders. Very reminiscent of a Dartmoor
for except it is made of limestone. A very friendly venue
with good access, a good variety of routes and superb
rock. Easy top rope access. A good family cliff with a
number of children/beginners routes in a pleasant
setting.
ACCESS
From the coast road Ermioni-Thermissia about 2km
Emeraldlizard
from Ermioni take the left turning to
Iliokastro (6km). As you enter the village
take the right turn to Thermissia (Greek language sign)
At the next junction (200m) go straight on and then follow
the tarred road to its end after 5 km. Then drive right and back
to the seen rocks on a bad but drivable road.
ALTITUDE
650 m above sea level.
SEASON
All year round. The routes are on the East and South sides giving shade or
sun as required and shelter from the cold northerly winds in winter.
LAYOUT
Below the main cliff are a number of out crops with wildly overhanging south
faces with the possibility of some very hard routes.
A17 Speedy con Janis
9
A Playground: In the center of the cliff there is a level area, ideal for picnics and with a number of short toprope
problems. Bolt belays above for top roping. Excellent with children
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Merlin
1
5b
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Asterix
2
4c
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Tombstone
3
4b
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Menhir
4
6c
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Obelix
5
6a
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Wizard
6
5c
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Flakey
7
5b
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Sharkey
8
5a+
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Minnie
9
4b
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Goofy
10
4a
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
The Slab
11
5c
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Snoopy
12
3
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Crackerjack
13
4b
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Sesam Street
14
5b
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Steep
15
6a
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Steeper
16
5c+
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Speedy
17
3
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Donald Duck
18
3
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Kiddies Corner
19
4a
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Fingernail
20
6a
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
21
Fingernail
6a+
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Pullover
22
5c+
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Holly Tree Corner
23
5b
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Mickey Mouse
24
5c
B East Side of the rock
Fire Starter
1
Guy Fawes
2
Singleton
3
Swanage Days (only top-rope)
4
Wednesday Afternoon*
5
Wait I Must Piss
6
Joyride**
7
Zoom **
8
Do it on Sunday
9
Left Overs
10
Another Day
11
Direct Start*
12
The Fabulous Thunderbirds**
13
Independence Day**
14
5b
5c
5b
5b
5a
5b+
6b
6b
6b
4b
5b+
6b
5c
5b
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & S. Titt
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
10
C South Side of the rock
Sunshine Arete***
1
Sunshine Arete direct Start
2
Finger-pull***
3
Warm Corner**
4
The Wall***
5
Cold Hand**
6
Einfach
7
Einfach direct start
8
Warmup*
9
Super-crack**
10
Deviant*
11
Toto
12
Dancing with Snakes***
13
Waltzing Matilda***
14
4c
5c
6a+
5b
6a+
5b+
4a
4b
5b
5c+
6a+
4c
5b
6a+
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
?
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
H. Weninger
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
T. Dunsby
S. Titt
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
D Inner West Side of the rock
Rip off
1
Grosser Bär
2
Kleiner Bär
3
Kindermund
4
Wildwechsel
5
3
5b+
5b
3
4c
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
F Left South Side of the rock
Staffellauf**
1
Pete’s Route***
2
Holzfäller Suppe***
3
6a
5c+
6a
H. Weninger
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
G Yellow Block (Block down of South wall)
Riders on the Storm (free project)
1
7c/8a?
Janis in C1 Sunshine Arete
Jeannette in C13 Waltzing
Mathilda
11
Rock of Ages
A nice little cliff in an idyllic setting and highly recommended for those more interested in their surroundings than
pushing up their grades. A small ravine with lush vegetation, good rock and varied climbing give a very pleasant day
out. Highlights include the spectacular and photogenic, overhanging Mr. Cool at 5a and the weird “Pull of the Sun” at
6a+/6b, which climbs up inside the cleft splitting the cliff face. Good belaying on top for a toprope. A short walk up the
ravine brings you to another area of cliffs which are as yet untouched.
ACCESS
Approaching from Porto Heli turn right on the saddle before Didima (Sign: Iliokastro). After 4,4 km shortly before
reaching a small church on the right side turn left. Continue on this tarred road for 2,8 km. Then go right on a small
tarred road for 1,9 km (the last 100 m are gravel). Turn left when the concrete begins and follow the road downwards.
On this road 800 m towards a wide rock formation. Just before you reach that formation turn right and follow the road
with a serpentine up to the saddle right of the rock formation. Now downwards to another dirt road. Turn left and follow
this road for about 750m until you’ll see the small ravine on the left. Park a few meters after the valley where the
sheppards feed their animals (above the street on the left). Go left and follow the water pipes in the valley and turn left
to the rocks.
v
ALTITUDE
500m above sea level.
SEASON
Probably all year, South/South West facing. Shady in the morning.
12
A 7 Dwarfs
Happy
1
Grumpy
2
Bashful
3
Sneezy
4
Dopy
5
Dozy
6
Doc
7
4b
4c
6c
6b+
7a
6b
6c?
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
B Fairy Tale
Snow White*
1
Black Witch**
2
Hobbit
3
Dance with Monsters**
4
Heave
5
Fairy Tale**
6
Grab**
7
5c
6b
4a
6a+
5b
5a
6b
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Little Cat Head (vorgelagert)
1
Katzenschleichen
4a
Jeannette in D7 Teamwork
Barnie in C5 Eos
13
C Main Wall and D Slabs
C Main Wall
Pams arete
1
Mr Cool***
2
Dreamtime***
3
Dreamtime direct start**
4
Woody**
5
The Rising***
6
Eos***
7
Hydra***
8
Furioso***
9
Stoned***
10
Gammel Hans***
11
4b
5b+
5b
5a
6a
5c+
6a+
5c
6b
6a+
6c+
Pam Jolliffe
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
H. Weninger
H. Weninger
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
H. Weninger
H. Weninger
H. Weninger
H. Weninger
H. Weninger
D Slabs: outside of the chimney
Pull of the Sun*** (right side far in the chimney)
1
Maxx**
2
Hail*
3
Snowtime**
4
Quetschi**
5
Simple Start*
6
Easy Mover*
7
Superfine***
8
Teamwork***
9
Quergang (Riss)
10
150%***
11
Hope**
12
Roof**
13
Fridge*
14
6a+
5b
5a
4c
5c
5a
5a
6a
5b+
?
5c
6a+
6a+
5b
J. Titt & Pete Sedgwick
?
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
T. Schilberg
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
H. Weninger
H. Weninger
H. Weninger
New sector right above the serpentine (look at access). Characteristic pillar. Nice routes. Some potential.
?
1
6a
?
2
5c+
?
3
5c+
?
4
5c
?
5
5b+
14
Flower Power
Main Wall
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Louie***
Kaa***
Shir**
Khan**
Balu**
Mogli**
Ziggy**
Flaps**
Akela**
4b
5a
6a
6a
6a+
6b
5b
5b+
6c
J. Weninger
H. Weninger
H. König
H. Weninger
H. Weninger
H. König
H. König
H. Weninger
H. König
15
Caves of Frachti
An enormous cavern with three large openings 50-100m wide, the third opening is like a mine shaft. Even for
nonclimbers they are well worth a visit, the excavations are from the discovery of what are thought to be the oldest
human remains in Greece. The attractions for climbers are the dry bouldering, the slab climbs out of the last opening,
the bizarre climbs under the floor of the cavern and naturally the stupendous roof climbs, 100m on stalactites anyone?
Good access and nice beaches including a small rocky one at the entrance.
ALTITUDE
30m over sea level.
SEASON
All year, all weather, as some of the routes are underground.
ACCESS
Signposted road just S of the village of Fourni. Drive 4km to the beach. Before the chapel turn left and next right to the
beach, than left to the end of the sandbeach. Follow the marked path along the coast to the cliff: 7 min walk.
LAYOUT
As you enter the cave there are some bolted projects either side, then clamber up the boulders towards the second
entrance, here you will find the climbs under the floor of the cave. Further through the cave you will come to a small
lake and then to the last entrance with the slab climbs. (Last exit sector)
Jeannette in G3 Christmasday at the Workhouse
16
A 100 m left before the cave entrance (Very fine for beginners.)
Jim 1**
1
4a
Jim 2**
2
4b
Jim 3**
3
5a
Hot**
4
5b
Hotter**
5
5c
B Inside the first cave, left side
Rage Against Gravity (free project)
1
Cathedral of Power (free project)
2
Wild Monkeys
3
Caveman (free project)
4
?
?
7c
8a/b?
C Inside the cave right side
Stone Express (unfinished free project)
1
?
Carsten Oetze
D Inside the 2nd cave, under the floor (Toprope)
You see two parallel slots and behind these is one orthogonal to these two.
Left slot, left side
S. Titt
Imagination
1
6a
T. Dunsby
Rice Krispies*
2
6a
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Thunder and Lightning
3
5c
J. Titt
Barbarian
4
6b
Left slot, right side
Throwaway
5
6a
T. Dunsby
Right slot, left side
Back and foot
6
4b
J. Titt
Orthogonal slot, back wall
Fat Boy Slim
7
4b
J. Titt
E Last Exit
A superb area with top quality climbs on the slab of the last exit.
Red Road**
1
5c+
Special***
2
6a+
Stone Temple Pilots***
3
7a+
Christmas Day at the Workhouse***
4
6a
Magic Way*** (left finish of Xmas day)
5
6a+
Wild Frontier***
6
6b
Mission Impossible***
7
6b+
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
H. Weninger
Aris Thoedoropoulos
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
J. Titt & I. Zaczek
Opposite G6 Mission Impossible
Once there were Bushes (4b A0)
8
Once we were Trees**
9
J. Titt
J. Titt
7a
6c+
17
Ortholithi
You will probably notice there is considerable potential here! This is a mountain 1100 high and the South face is 300400m high and plenty of rock-faces. Only one
sector is developed: the, "Lower Wall". An
impressive clean sweep of rock up to 80m high,
the far end has easier angled grey slabs giving
superb slab/wall routes. The rest of the wall (the
majority) is steep red and black rock and looks
much harder.
ACCESS;
On the national road Corinth-Kosta 8km before
the col on Didima (97km from
Corinth) turn left to Karatzas (4km) at a sharp
right turn by a large marble works. In the village
take the second right at a house with some new
stone facings and follow the road past the
football pitch. At the T junction turn left and
continue to Chora. Follow the dirt road (good) to
the parking place and walk up through the
quarry 8-10min.
Climbing Area
ALTITUDE;
800m over sea level.
SEASON;
Probably 3 seasons as the cliffs are south facing and could be too hot in high summer.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8(1)
9(2)
Alptraum (1. 30m 5b, 2. 50m 5a/b, trad)
Early Days, Easy Days
Dance With Me** (1. 20m, 2. 25m, 3. 20m, trad)
Scotts Bad Day out**(maybe few nuts at the top)
Black Line*** (1. 25m, 2. 25m, trad)
Little Brown Jugs (1. 22m, 2. 22m, trad)
The long run (Eastern Arete, 900m. trad, mostly II- III)
Fantasia
Via Chora
5b (VS 4c)
5c (HVS 5a)
5b (VS 4c)
6a+
5b (HVS 4c)
5b (VS 4b)
5a
6b+
6a
(1
18
Katafiki
An impressive ravine with a main face over 100m high and other faces along the river bed. The main wall has an
impressive overhanging centre section with a large roof running across at half height, pockmarked with holes. On first
sight this can be somewhat overwhelming but once on the rock it turns out to be more amenable as one would expect.
The excellent access (the cliff is 15m from the road) and good protection from the elements make this area worthy of
much more development.
ACCESS.
Take the coast road from Ermioni in the direction Thermissia. 2km from Ermioni turn left along the signposted road
towards the ravine (2.5km) The tarred road becomes a good dirt road for the last few hundred meters. Park where
convenient but do not obstruct the road.
Note: If you are coming from the Didima area then it is better to take the small road leading east which turns off the
main road a few hundred metres north of the village of Fourni. Follow this to its end and a parking place. Walk through
the pleasantly wooded valley along the path to the main wall (10min).
SEASON.
All year. The main wall is in the shade after approx. midday in the summer.
19
A Powerline Buttress
Powerline
1
Pillar of Pain
2
The Chimney
3
Right Side up
4
October Groove (1. 28, 2. 20)
5
Mr. Clean
6
Mrs Clean
7
5b+
5a+
5b
4c+
V+
VI
B Welcome
B Welcome
1
Ade**
2
Lassu**
3
Namasde**
4
Hola***
5
Bon jour***
6
Wellcome***
7
Bien Venuto***
8
Hei***
9
Olala***
10
God Dag***
11
Grüezi***
12
Tach***
13
The Answer (1. 27m, 2. 24m, 3. 28m)
6b+
5c
5b+
5c
6a
5b
6a
6a
6a+
6a
5b+
4b
5c
20
C Heroes
C Heroes
1 The Question *** 5b+
2 Marias Traum *** 5c
3 Sabbatical *** 6b
4 Savage Girl *** 7a
5 Savage Man 6c ***
6 Sidestep 7a? **
7 Force War 6a+ ***
8 Hereos 6a: 1. 6a, 2.: 6a ***
9 Villians 5b **
10 Rockstar 5c ***
11 At the Edge 6a+ **: 1.: 6a+, 2.: 5c
12 Saints 5c*
13 Last Hero 6a+ ***: 1.: 6a+, 2.: 5b+.
14 Projekt
15 The Flaming Lips (Trad project)
Hans in B9 Olala
1
2
The Question***
Marias Traum***
5b+
5c
21
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Sabbatical***
Savage Girl***
Savage Man***
Sidestep**
Force War***
Hereos (1. Xm, 2.Xm)
Villians**
Rockstar***
At the Edge** (1. Xm, 2. Xm)
Saints*
Last Hero*** (1. Xm, 2. Xm, 3. Xm)
Projekt
The Flaming Lips (Trad project)
6b
7a
6c
7a?
6a+
6a / 6a
5b
5c
6a+ / 5c
5c
6a+/6a+/5b+
22
D Bigwall
1 Fighting Jim P1 6a+, P2 4c ***
(unfinished, will be a superb line)
2 The Red Empire 125m 7c+ (5c Obl.) ***1: 35m 6a,
2: 25m 6c+ (5b A0), 3: 20m 7c+ orA0, 4: 20m 5b, 5: 20m 5b.
3 Prayer 5a*
4 Sinners 5a*
5 Sue’s Party IV, 110m, 4 pitche
6 Zorro 150m 6b (5c+ obl) 1: 35m 5b: 2: 30m 6b (5b A0),
3: 20m 5c, 4: 20m 5c+, 5: 25m 5a, 6: 15m; 4b.The route
takes the obvious zigzag line up the cliff. Rappel from
“Sunday Outing”.
7 Red Rooster123m 5b (VS) 5b Trad. Start as for Sue's
Party, traverses left near the top of pitch 2 to reach the cave
belay of Heroes then continues left and then up to the top.
Bolt Belays.
E Beautiful
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Fighting Jim
The Red Empire
E Beautiful
1 Jassas 6a+ ***
2 Mercy5c ***
3 Lucky 6a ***
4 Golden Brown 5b+ ***
5 Handbiter 5c ***
6 Brown Sugar 5c+ ***
7 Hole in the Wall 5b ***
8 Rolling Stone 6a **
23
9 Sticky Fingers 6a **
10 Ruby Tuesday 5c+ **
11 Sunday Outing V-125m .(H.S.)(5a/b) ***
Five pitches between 25 and 30m.Bolt belays.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
F Gstötti
1 Gstötti was Here 5c+ ***
2 Loch im Bauch 6a ***
3 Holiday 6a+ ***
4 Tamara 5a **
5 Kryptikos 6c * (above Tamara)
6 Verena 5a **
7 Via SCKC 6a *
8 Mythos 5b ***
9 Amstel 5b+ ***
10 9 Dragons 5a **
11 Come on 5c ***
F Gstötti
1
24
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
H Chappel
1 The Dragons Tail V
2 After Paradise 44m VI * (E1 5a/b) (6a)
Descend by abseil over the route.
3 Freestyler V.75m (VS.) (4c+) P1 25m,
P2 25m, P3 25m (rapel by the route)
4 Stromausfall 6a, you need nuts!
5 Chapel Wall VI
6 Chapel Arete IV+ (H.S.) (5a) 59m:
1: 24m, 2: 35m: Climb
The right hand arete of the buttress.
Descend by abseiling diagonally down
the vegetated ramp to the second belay
on 3 Freestyler.
1
2
3
4
5
6
Kastro Thermissia
A large imposing cliff overlooking the coast and the village of Thermisia. Closer inspection reveals an even more
daunting prospect than a first view would suggest! Big, red, bulging and holdless seems to sum it up, some possibilities
in the (much) higher grades if it is feasible to overcome the initial roofs. The only routes so far are on the upper tier. A
ruined castle on the top and floodlighting in the summer add to the attraction!
ACCESS
Excellent. Driving from Ermioni towards Poros on the coast road the next village is Thermissia. The cliff lies above you.
Take a left as you approach the village, just before a sign on the right to Hydras Wave Camping. Follow the tarred road
to its end near the castle.
ALTITUDE
Circa 500m.
SEASON
Probably not suitable in the summer as it is S. facing.
NOTE
Despite the new road, signpost (if you can find it) and the floodlighting the authorities have not seen fit to provide any
access paths up to the castle so to gain the upper tier is a bit of an adventure and to gain the top and the castle itself
requires some climbing ability. However, a spectacular site and worth the trip.
1 Venetian wall 6a
2 Shadow Comer 5c+
3 The Leading Edge 6b+ *** (direct start 6c+)
4 The Red Corner. 6a **
5 The Cutting Edge 7a **
25
6 Bombastic 6a+ **
7 Pinnacle Crack 4c** (start with 6. then right up)
8 Scythe VI ?
9 New Order 6a ***
Hans in 3 Leading Edge
Note also that in the low land down the hill are
about 20 big limestone boulders that offer great
bouldering!
26