FEATURE Plus-size Lingerie

Transcription

FEATURE
Plus-size
Lingerie
CREATIONS
HONORS
Top stores
of the season
THE GUEST
Ali Cudby
DITORIA
STAY TUNED
H
APPY HOURS, PRIVATE SALES, customer loyalty cards,
clearance sales: there are so many ways to significantly
boost a store’s sales. These tactics have even become
essential given today’s marketing-addicted consumer. It’s no
longer enough to have good merchandise; you have to know
how to sell it, too! In today’s business world, all advice is worth
considering. That’s why Créations Lingerie North America
decided to include business tips and become another educational
resource for retailers.
Every trimester in this magazine, in addition to market analyses,
trends, and conversations with lingerie, swimwear, and
loungewear brands, you will find dozens of practical ideas. First,
you’ll find the column Top Stores where we publish photos of the
season’s best stores and reveal their most useful tips & tricks.
Then, take in the advice of the professionals, like Ali Cudby in this
issue.
Staying loyal to our mission, we’ve also included not only
exclusive interviews with Kerry O’Brien of Commando and
Heather Thomson of Yummie, but also an exciting look at ultrafashionable Plus-Size intimates. And don’t miss our report on
lingerie’s new names, a column by our friend Ellen Lewis, and a
fantastic analysis by our new collaborator, swimwear specialist
Rhea Cortado.
Enjoy this month’s edition. We hope you’ll join us for a new special
issue, largely dedicated to swimwear, available in July.
François Pomès
Managing editor
[email protected]
xoxoxoxooxoxoxoxooxoxo
Easton International, Inc.
Tel: 201.391.3492 / [email protected]
www.eastoninternational.com
Intimate insight,
European view
#6
APRIL. / JUNE. 2014
Editorial.......................................................................... 2
The Guest
Ali Cudby, Fab Foudation...................................................... 6
News.................................................................................10
Up-and-Coming.....................................................22
Top Stores...............................................................24
p.26
Event
Lingerie Fashion Night “In”............................................... 30
Interview
Kerry O’Brien, Commando................................................ 36
Feature
New Brands, New Luxury.................................................40
Lingerie Briefs Chronicles
p.24
Loungewear, Easywear.......................................................42
Corsetry
p.42
Interview: Heather Thomson for Yummie......................50
Feature: Plus-Size Lingerie................................................52
Collections........................................................................... 56
Loungewear & Hosiery
Collections........................................................................... 66
Beachwear
Collections.......................................................................... 70
Men’s Intimate Apparel
Feature: New Swimwear for Men ..................................... 74
Collections........................................................................... 78
Fairs
Curve NV.............................................................................. 82
Curve NY..............................................................................84
MiamiSwimShow................................................................85
July Shows in Paris............................................................. 86
Interfilière Shanghai........................................................... 87
Fabrics
News.................................................................................... 90
European Sourcing.............................................................. 91
p.74
p.82
AD DIRECTORY
FEATURE
Plus-size
Lingerie
CREATIONS
HONORS
Top stores
of the season
THE GUEST
Ali Cudby
CLNA6_UNE_OK.indd 3
COVER
BACK COVER
PARISA USA
ANITA INTERNATIONAL
Address
9401 Business Center Dr.,
Northridge, CA 91324
P: (818) 773-5000
F: (818) 773-5100
Address
3540 NW 56th Street, Ste. 204
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309
P: 1-954-730-8189 ext. 114
F: 1-954-730-8723
[email protected]
www.parisausa.com
[email protected]
www.anita.com
25/04/14 18:11
AFFINITAS.......................................................................................13
ANITA........................................................................... BACK COVER
AUBADE............................................................................................ 3
CURVESHOW.................................................................................80
EUCALAN.......................................................................................35
YVES MORITZ
Publisher
[email protected]
FRANÇOIS POMÈS
Managing editor
[email protected]
VALÉRIE CHARIER
Editor in chief
[email protected]
VALÉRIE DUBILLON
Advertising director
(US, Canada, Europe)
[email protected]
GUILLAUME NACK
Advertising manager
(France, Europe, Asia)
[email protected]
JULIEN KOPLEWICZ-PINET
Graphic Designer
[email protected]
INTERFILIERE PARIS SHOW.........................................................88
INTERFILIERE / SHANGHAI MODE LINGERIE SHOW................ 47
MODE CITY SHOW....................................................... 96; COVER 3
OH LA LA CHERI............................................................................ 61
PARISA.......................................................................FRONT COVER
PJ SALVAGE........................................................... COVER 2; PAGE 1
MIAMISWIMSHOW........................................................................15
TRIUMPH......................................................................................... 11
THE CLNA TEAM
JULIE FRANCE...............................................................................59
VA BIEN..........................................................................................48
CRÉATIONS LINGERIE
NORTH AMERICA
IS PUBLISHED BY EDITOLUX
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TRANSLATION &
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MANAGING EDITOR
François Pomès
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CHIEF EDITOR
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ADVERTISING MANAGERS
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Guillaume Nack
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THE GUEST
Princess Ali
Better positioning of one’s merchandise, better
sales techniques, and better knowledge of the
market: this is what Ali Cudby, well-known as a
consultant and blogger in the intimate apparel
world, has to offer. We recently spoke with her.
BY FRANÇOIS POMÈS
T
he bubbly Ali Cudby, who wears the hats of blogger, consultant, and fashion aficionado, is above all
a big fan of intimates, both its brands and its retailers. As the CEO of Fab Foundations, which helps
stores and manufacturers optimize their business
and branding, Ali is one of the key players in the North American intimates scene. Her book Busted! The Fab Foundations®
Guide to Bras That Fit, Flatter and Feel Fantastic has become a
must in the industry and was even translated into Spanish! The
journalist-blogger-consultant-fan has more than one trick up
her sleeve and founded The Intimate Circle, a club where members can learn about retail sales and share their knowledge, as
well as the FabFit Academy, a training program that attracts
dozens of professionals each session. For Créations Lingerie
North America, Ali agreed to offer us her perspective.
What are the FabFit Academy and the Guide?
The FabFit Academy is an online bra fit training and certification
program that is designed for use by lingerie professionals. I created
the program in 2012 after hearing from a number of retailers that
they wanted fit training that they could access when they needed
it, wherever they were in the world. As the author of the bestselling
book on bra fitting, Busted!, it was a natural extension of the work
I was already doing. Since my methodology is focused on how a
bra fits a woman’s body, it lends itself to being effective across all
countries and sizing protocols.
What about the new Circle?
The Intimate Circle is a new online tool for lingerie retailers.
6
“I think when
companies stop
thinking about
taking things to the
next level, that’s the
beginning of the
slippery slope to
stale.”
ALI CUDBY
This is a membership-based learning lounge. Each month members get access to interviews, downloads, and other tools that
are designed to help boost lingerie businesses. We talk to industry experts about topics like marketing, buying, merchandising,
and selling to help each retailer take their business to the next
level. There’s also a private community where members can
ask each other questions about their business. No matter what
you’re going through in your lingerie business, there’s someone
who can help you out. Being a retailer is hard! This is a great way
to get the information you need while also being part of a supportive community of likeminded professionals.
Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014
Why did you decide to help retailers to boost their business?
I talk to retailers constantly, so I hear about their challenges and
frustrations. As I listened over the years, it occurred to me that a
lot of the issues are business fundamentals with a lingerie twist –
which aligned exactly with my skills as a lingerie industry expert
with a Wharton MBA. Retailers had already shown an interest in
getting information online, at their convenience. The Intimate Circle takes the model they enjoy, namely online information, and
focuses it on the challenges they are having in their businesses
right now.
Do you think lot of American retailers need to improve their
shops and their “sales technique”?
Running your business more effectively isn’t limited to American
retailers. There are retailers from all over the globe in both the
FabFit Academy and The Intimate Circle; in fact, every continent
(except Antarctica) has been represented. Whether companies
are just starting out or have been around the block a few times,
the best ones are always investing in growth and development.
It’s too easy to get sucked into the day-to-day of running a business. The Intimate Circle provides an opportunity to take just a
little time each month to focus on the bigger picture – on boost-
7
THE GUEST
ing your business. Personally, I think when companies stop
thinking about taking things to the next level, that’s the beginning of the slippery slope to stale. So it helps retailers find a little
time each month, in a structured way, to focus on growth.
store’s brand and target customers, and how you communicate
your unique message to those customers. Then it’s about the
business processes you use to run effectively – from buying and
selling to hiring and firing.
Are the Academy and the Guide free?
The FabFit Academy and The Intimate Circle are investments retailers make in growing their businesses and are always priced
in a way that allows retailers to make back their money many
times over by applying the principles that come
from the program. It always comes back to the
value of being a more efficient and effective
business, getting your name out there, bringing
more people through the door, and backing everything up with a well-run business that delivers
for the owner, the employees and the customer.
What are the main mistakes you see being made?
I see a lot of retailers who think they should do it all themselves
– and as an entrepreneur, by definition you end up wearing a lot
of hats. But doing everything alone means no influx of fresh ideas,
and it’s too easy to get burnt out. It’s important to
realize that you don’t have to do it alone, and the
best businesses invest in some outside perspective and energy in order to grow. I also see businesses that run according to gut feeling, instead
of a plan. Buying, marketing, hiring and firing – all
of these aspects of business need some strategy
behind them. Harnessing the power of industry experts to help guide your strategy makes so much
more sense for running a successful business.
According to you, what are the most important
elements needed to boost a lingerie business?
All businesses need to be built on Fab Foundations. Just like a bra, if your business doesn’t
have a solid foundation, everything sags. So first
of all, it’s about making sure your fundamentals
are in place. We drill down on questions about a
8
How can a lingerie shop be the most efficient?
Having some processes and tools in place for the
most important aspects of running a store means
being on top of what you need to do. So your foun-
THE GUEST
dational understanding of your brand and your customers flows into
buying plan, which flows into your merchandising plan, which flows
into your marketing plan. It’s easy to say, and hard to do alone, particularly when you’re starting from scratch.
Do you think a lingerie retailer could also sell swimwear, and
vice versa?
I think a store’s buying strategy and merchandise mix ultimately boil down to the brand, the customers who shop there, and
analysis of the budget. I absolutely know that lingerie retailers can sell swimwear effectively! Whether an individual store
should sell swimwear is a separate question. I suspect it’s
more challenging for swimwear stores to sell lingerie; however,
my area of expertise is lingerie retailers, so I can’t say for sure.
What are the star products in lingerie, loungewear, and swimwear that a shop must have in 2015?
As always, the product mix a store offers should be tied back to a
buying strategy, and a deep understanding of the customers that
store serves. When retailers know their customers deeply they will
choose a product mix that will be successful for both the customers and the bottom line. n
Are the business strategies the same across the US and in Canada?
There are some aspects of business strategy that change by
location, like laws governing return policies for intimates. Fundamentally, business strategies in market-based economies
like the US and Canada are always similar, even though the outcomes differ. In other words, the questions to ask are the same,
but the answers are unique to every store’s needs, location, and
customer base.
9
NEWS
HERE & ABROAD
BY FRANÇOIS POMÈS, VALÉRIE CHARIER AND LESLIE VALMONT
GUIDED TOUR SECRETS
OF FRENCH CORSETRY
For 33 years, the Wice association has been offering cultural and
educational programs to the international and expat community in
Paris, to introduce them to the French way of life. On 4th March last
year, it unveiled a new programme: the «Paris Lingerie Tour,» designed
to explain the French lingerie industry to women and charged at €32.
Nine Anglophones, mainly Americans, also found themselves at the
Bon Marché, guided by the department store’s lingerie purchaser.
Simone Pérèle’s artistic director took the reins to help them discover
the brand. Finally, the morning was rounded off with a visit to the
neighbouring Implicite boutique, again under the leadership of the
artistic director. A comment from 3 people on the tour: «I am going to
re-do my lingerie wardrobe…»
DOMINIK BOSSERT
JOINED THE MARYAN BEACHWEAR
GROUP
German swimwear group Maryan
Beachwear is strengthening its sales
force by teaming up with Dominik
Bossert, who has become a member
of the extended management board.
This new associate is well known in
the world of sport, having previously
worked with the likes of Adidas and
Intersport.
10
DKNY TARGETS
SPORT AND COMFORT
The American brand’s lingerie division introduce two new collection for up and coming
niches: one relies on a second skin effect, the
other on a specially adapted design for gentle
sports (such as yoga). The second skin set
is made up of a non-underwired, soft-cup
bra (from S to XL) and a pair of lace briefs. It
comes in two colours (nude and fuchsia). The
sports set includes a non-underwired sports
bra, with removable pads, from S to L, and a
seamless pair of briefs. It is available in fuchsia,
blue, black and white.
NEWS
HERE & ABROAD
MICHA SIEBENHANDL
CEO OF HUBER HOLDING
Huber Holding, with the eponymous textile company and
owner of the Hanro brand, have just appointed Micha Siebenhandl as CEO and Chairman of the Executive board. In
the world of optics, he has managed luxury eyewear brands
such as Porsche, Dunhill and even Michael Kors.
HANRO LAUNCHES
A BIRTHDAY COLLECTION
To celebrate its 130th birthday, Hanro put all its expertise together
in a capsule collection. It is comprised of lingerie, nightwear and
loungewear for both men and women. Regarding material, the
brand relies on cashmere cotton, cotton tulle and viscose satin,
transformed into golden hues, anthracite and Bordeaux red.
PASSIONATA
BLOWS OUT 25 CANDLES
Born at the end of the 80s, which marks «the start of the
femininity years,» Passionata has always relied on seduction.
In 1998, it attempted something daring: distribute to selective
channels as well as hypermarkets. The risk paid off… Its «Passio» line alone, launched in 2005, has sold 27 millions items and
has been developed in 44 different colours over the seasons.
NEWS
HERE & ABROAD
LANE BRYANT
PREFERS FRENCH
LINGERIE
Lane Bryant, the leading plus-size clothing chain
in America, is teaming up with French designer
Sophie Theallet to produce a lingerie capsule
collection. The line, featuring floral patterns bras,
satin chemises, and lace trim garter skirts, will be
available in stores for Fall 2014, in sizes 14-28.
The chain of 775 stores has an image issue,
though. The subsidiary of Ascena Retail group is
said to offer frumpy, moderately priced merchandise. So last year, Linda Heasley, CEO of Lane
Bryant, asked designer Isabel Toledo to renew
her dress line. And now she is turning to Sophie
Theallet to freshen up the Cacique lingerie line.
“Sophie Theallet creates vibrant, confident designs,” she said. “It is this exact air of confidence
that makes her a perfect fit for Lane Bryant.”
Sophie Theallet will bring Lane Bryant stores the
French touch that is so appreciated in lingerie.
She is a real designer. The creator shows her
work twice a year during New York Fashion Week.
Sophie Theallet worked for Jean Paul Gaultier and
Azzedine Alaia before launching her own brand
in 2007. And now the young woman is known
for her feminine design, draping, and detailing.
She knows how to combine exquisite colors and
prints, which is one of the reasons why first lady
Michelle Obama is her customer.
Sophie Theallet promises to infuse the Lane Bryant line with “sexy, fun, and very feminine” style.
The collection will be a bit pricier than usual, but
still affordable. Panties are priced at $19.95, bras
at $56.50, corsets at $108, and lace trim garter
skirts at $55.50. Sleepwear will retail between
$39.95 and $109.
14
WOLFORD INNOVATES,
IN TIGHTS AND LINGERIE
“Pure 50 tights”, is the latest development in tights from the Austrian company. Their addedvalue comes from their manufacturing: the different parts are assembled by glue, and not
by sewing, which makes them both comfortable and invisible even under the tightest of
clothing. Five colours are available: red, cobalt, black, caviar and mocha. In this same spirit
of completely seamless comfort, Wolford launched “Sheer touch“, a second skin set with a
slightly shiny element to it. The bras are available in three shapes, from UK sizes 32 to 38,
cups A to D, which go together with four bottoms (tanga briefs, control pants, control shorts,
and a forming skirt). All available in powder pink and black.
FREYA TESTS ITS
NEW SPORTS
BRA IN REALISTIC CONDITIONS
HYOSUNG CELEBRATES
21 YEARS OF ELASTANE
The Korean producer, who has more than 73
companies and branches around the world,
turned its focus to spandex 21 years ago in
launching its creora® brand. On its anniversary, it
announced the new sub-brand developed by this
niche: creora® Color+ (dyed elastane), creora®
eco-soft (which eliminates heat), creora® Black
(run-proof) and creora® highclo™(chlorine
resistant).
16
To promote the launch of its new
sports bra, Freya conducted
a study with the University of
Portsmouth on breast movement during sport. Specialists
analysed how the breasts
bounced but also the strain put
on them and the pain caused
on nineteen impact points. The
panel consisted of women ranging over seven different bra sizes,
from 32FF to 36E. It appears that
the new Freya bra reduces breast
strain to 3% (compared to a 28%
strain reported for an everyday
bra) and reduces breast pain
by up to 97% compared to no
bra running (while an everyday
bra reduces pain by only 58%).
92% of women tested also felt
that this new sports bra reduced
independent breast movement.
This new microfiber underwear
is also breathable and has an
odour-control finish. It is available
in sizes 34B to 36H in indigo blue,
pink and cosmic black.
RÖSCH BRINGS AFRICAN
COTTON TO ITS NIGHTWEAR RANGE
To provide greater transparency in its textile chain, Rösch launches a new
nightwear lingerie collection made from 100% ‘made in Africa’ cotton,
produced in accordance with the new Aid by Trade Foundation standard –
which focuses on sustainable development. There are eight designs (nightwear t-shirts, long and short-sleeved, nightdresses, ¾ length trousers),
offered in turquoise, red berry, anthracite and white.
HANRO
CELEBRATES
TURNING 130
In 1884, the Swiss brand made a
name for itself, deciding to offer
sleek underwear made with topof-the-range materials. Quickly
renowned for their quality, Hanro
was most notably the supplier of
Marilyn Monroe’s high waisted
pants in «The Seven Year Itch» and
Nicole Kidman’s tank top in «Eyes
Wide Shut».
MAISON LEJABY
CELEBRATES 130 YEARS
The brand had its ups and downs in the noughties, before being taken over in 2012
and renamed Maison Lejaby in reference to its «French fashion spirit». From its second year of operating, the «new» brand announces renewed growth.
17
NEWS
HERE & ABROAD
ERES AND
NET-A-PORTER WED
Swimwear and lingerie brand Erès, part of the
Chanel family, has just entered into a global
partnership with the website Net-a-porter.
“We chose this partnership with Net-a-porter
because we had a positive experience with
them two and a half years ago,” explained Olivier Mauny, Managing Director of the brand.
“They are one of the key players on the Internet; they’re connected to high-end clients,
and the way they deal with brands aligns with
our expectations.” For Mauny, this alliance will
help Erès grow significantly in Asia and North
America; currently, the company doesn’t
have an online presence on these continents,
and its network of shops is limited there.
OLIVIER DE CROIZANT
JOINS BARBARA
Olivier de Croizant, former Exports Director of Aubade, has joined French
lingerie brand Barbara. After two years with Princesse Tam Tam and six
with Aubade, Croizant is taking on a new challenge with a brand whose
exports represent almost half of their sales, or about six million dollars.
Croizant would do well to first consolidate the brand’s solid export markets – Asia and Russia – and then move on to conquer other continents.
JOURNELLE WINS
FORMER DESIGNER
OF VICTORIA’S SECRET
Journelle has just hired Rania Abu-Eid, one of
Victoria’s Secret’s kingpins, who spent eight
years designing the brand’s major collections. Journelle, for its part, aims to launch
its own private label collection, and subsequently open new stores.
EVEN ALTERNATIVE
APPAREL IS GIVING
ACTIVEWEAR A TRY
Alternative Apparel is launching Move, an activewear line that will be available at Nordstrom
in June for under $100. Fitness fans that are
also fashion-oriented will find about 20 pieces
in the collection, which are made from organic
pima cotton, four-way stretch cotton, recycled
cotton-polyester, and other eco-friendly fabrics
with antimicrobial properties. After a month of
exclusive sales, the line will be available in other
select stores.
TIANHAI LACE USA
HAS A NEW PRESIDENT
Suzanne Beck has been named President of
Tianhai Lace USA, part of Tianhai Lace Co., Ltd.,
one of the leading innovative lace suppliers in the
industry, with over 1,000 employees. The offices
of Tianhai Lace USA are in New York and Tianhai
Lace Co., Ltd. is based in Guangzhou, China.
Beck has been Tianhai Lace USA’s Vice President
of Sales for the last seven years. Prior to that,
she spent three years as Account Executive for
Takeda Lace Ltd. and 18 years with Liberty Fabrics. Flora Chao, internationally recognized for her
innovative and commercial lace designs, brought
Tianhai Lace to the United States over a dozen
years ago. She will continue as Director of Design
for Tianhai Lace USA.
MAD MEN DESIGNER CREATES
HER OWN TIGHTS
Mad Men costume designer, Janie Bryant is launching her own
collection of tights for fall 2014. The new venture, called Jane Bryant
Leg Couture, is being produced by Doris International. The creator,
daughter and grand-daughter of hosiery professionals, was inspired
by classic glamour movies such as “Gone with the Wind”. The black,
nude and gray lycra collection offers crochet styles, sparkling beading
and more simple options. Janie Bryant aims to reach the affordable
luxury niche with prices ranging from $18 to $35. More than 100
doors should have it this fall. Mad Men characters already promise to
wear Jane Bryant Leg Couture. Christina Hendricks, a/k/a Joan on the
Mad Men show, is a fan.
NEWS
HERE & ABROAD
ANITA MATERNITY
LAUNCHES A SEAMLESS LINE
For several months now, North American retailers have been able to offer a wider selection of
Anita Maternity apparel to their customers. The German brand, well known in the American market for flawless quality and its products’ expert fit, now offers a seamless collection for pregnant
women. Available in black, silver grey, rosewater, and hot pink in limited edition, the line is made
of breathable microfiber. The maternity pieces are lightweight and low-maintenance, and the
postpartum items have cups that can be unfastened for easy nursing. The back closure has four
positions to be adaptable to variations in chest size. Available in sizes S-XL.
DITA VON TEESE LINGERIE
AVAILABLE AT BLOOMINGDALE’S
The burlesque queen, Dita Von Teese, is launching her lingerie brand
in America at Bloomingdale’s Department Store. The luxury retailer
has signed a six-month exclusive deal, beginning mid-March, with the
Australian company DCI Corp, which manufactures and distributes the
brand. «It is part of Bloomingdale’s DNA to merge pop culture with fashion, so we are excited to offer our loyal customers the first opportunity
to shop Dita Von Teese’s lingerie collection,» said Francine Klein, Bloomingdale’s Executive Vice President of intimate apparel. Dita Von Teese
loves it. «I am honored to have my lingerie debut at Bloomingdale’s, the
iconic department store that represents such style and sophistication,»
she commented. The artist was inspired by vintage pieces from the eras
of the thirties, the forties and the fifties. Her collection is made of bras
($65 to $100), panties ($25 to $55), and full slips ($400). It is divided
into several themes: Feminine Parisienne, Leopard Prints, The Daring
Madame X, Her Sexellency, Sheer Witchery, and Man Catcher. Dita Von
Teese focuses on playing up the retro glamour spirit.
To emphasize a burlesque obsession, she includes miniature cameos,
tassels, velvet bows, European laces with flower patterns, and eyelash
effects.
The collection is being hosted at two Bloomingdale’s in New York City
on 59th Street and in Soho; in Aventura, Florida, Century City and San
Francisco in California, and White Plains, New York; and online at Bloomingdales.com. DCI Corp executives expect sales for the first year to be
$10 million in America.
UP-AND-COMING
Cache Cœur Offers New
Maternity Intimates
Better positioning of one’s merchandise, better sales techniques, and better knowledge of the market:
this is what Ali Cudby, well-known as a consultant and blogger in the intimate apparel world, has to
offer. We recently spoke with her.
BY FANÇOIS POMÈS
A
udrey and Philippe Trolliet launched the brand Cache
Coeur in France in 2008 to offer pregnant women an
intimate apparel collection that could be both practical
and aesthetically pleasing. Available in about 40 countries, the brand made its début at the Curve Expo last
August to begin its conquest of the American market. Cache Coeur
is offering a line of intimates (including seamless, microfiber items
that feel like a second skin), loungewear, and, most recently, swimwear. The apparel is moderately priced, with a set costing about
$100 and swimsuits starting at $70. Audrey Trolliet spoke with us
about Cache Coeur’s strategy for the North American market.
What makes your brand unique?
Cache Coeur seeks to revolutionize the maternity and nursing
market by offering it the refinement and traditional techniques of
French corsetry.
Why take on the American market?
The dream of Cache Coeur’s leaders has always been to have a
presence in the US and Canadian markets; the company’s story
began in the States. During a trip to New York, when Audrey and
Philippe Trolliet entered a store that sold intimates for nursing
22
women, they became aware of the products’ lack of femininity and,
thus, of the potential market. So, they made the decision to take on
the challenge of starting their own business with the goal of producing quality, feminine maternity and nursing intimates.
Has the merchandise been adapted to American sizes and
trends?
Many product adaptations were made to respond to the needs
and desires of American customers. The brand will now carry cup
sizes G and H in intimates and XXL in the new swimwear collection.
We’ve also developed several bra lines made using “Spacer” material, which is ultra breathable and perfectly suited to the maternity
and nursing market.
What is your price range?
Cache Coeur offers high-end products made from quality, ultra soft
fabrics with quality finishing and skill. The price of a corsetry bra
varies from $54.99 to $99.99.
What are your distribution channels?
Many specialty stores for mothers-to-be carry the brand in the
States, but we plan to expand our network. n
Top Stores
SPRING
SELECTION
Dozens of American and Canadian shops sent us photos of their window displays for this
edition. The five winners, selected for the visual and commercial appeal of their photos, will
each receive a mounted, 16x20-inch poster of their page. BY FRANÇOIS POMÈS
Thanks to all the shops that participated. Be sure to try again in the next round by
sending us:
• An assortment of 3-6 high-resolution photographs of your shop’s interior and
exterior
• A text describing your shop (approximately 600 characters)
• Tricks and tips that you’d like to share for improving sales
Submit them by e-mail to: [email protected]
Deadline for July’s edition: June 16, 2014
INSIDE STORY
FINE LINGERIE
OAKVILLE
‘‘
THE BOUTIQUE
“Inside Story Fine Lingerie is owned and operated by Lida Lisney,
who acquired the boutique in 2003 after working there as a parttime employee. Using exceptional customer service skills from
her previous career as a flight attendant coupled with a keen eye
for beautiful lingerie, Lida quickly brought the dated store into the
21st century. Today, Inside Story has two locations, in Oakville and
Mississauga. Lida’s mission is simple: make the customer, who
will 95% of the time be a woman, feel amazing both inside and
out. Through outstanding fitting techniques, and a staff of highlytrained, compassionate, but most importantly upbeat ladies,
Inside Story achieves this goal day in and day out.”
TIPS & TRICKS TO IMPROVE SALES
• “ NEWSLETTERS AND BLOGS
This day and age, it is very important to keep your customers
informed and engaged. Fashion trends in colors are now, more
than ever translating into foundations as well. Everyone likes to
be “in the know”.
• OVER-THE-TOP EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SERVICE
What distinguishes one similar business from another if they
are selling a similar product is their reputation for dealing with
their clientele. It’s imperative to keep the reputation highly
positive and the easiest way to do that is offering excellent
customer service. For example, following up with a customer
when they are looking for something specific – going above
and beyond to find a solution to their wardrobe query. Thanking
customers with special offers is another way to make them feel
special. In the fitting room, it’s key to explain why the fitting is
being done this way, as well as the key elements to a fit. This
genuine and caring approach to your clientele’s lingerie needs
will get them to trust you implicitly as well as increase sales
through word of mouth referrals.
• EFFECTIVE PROMOTIONS HIGHLIGHTING
BRANDS IN THE STORE
This is a great way to get a customer that normally only buys
one brand to give another a try with an incentive. We do this
type of “sales drive” through e-blasts that are labeled VIP Inside
Story Promos. The timing of these “events” is key, as we do not
want to inundate our clientele with too many e-blasts. We want
them to feel special.
• UPSELLING TECHNIQUES THAT ARE
MORE SUGGESTIVE THAN PUSHY
While a customer is in the changing room, they are your captive
audience. You bring in the underwear to match the bra by
simply placing it in the room. Bring in a sports bra or a swim top
that is in their bra size. This almost always leads to an increase
in sales.”
Address (Oakville): 107 Reynolds St,
Oakville, ON L6J3K4, Canada
Address (Mississauga): 1900 Dundas St
W, Mississauga, ON L5K1P9, Canada
Phone: (905) 845-1210 / (905) 855-8880
Owners: Lida Lisney
Web Site: www.insidestory.ca
Email: [email protected]
Address: 71 W. Houston St.
New York, NY 10012
Phone: (212) 387-7788
Owners: Yukinaka Morita
Web Site: www.kaoriscloset.com
KAORI’S CLOSET
TOKYO
NEW YORK
‘‘
THE BOUTIQUE
“Founded in 2008, Kaori’s Closet TOKYO is a designer lingerie boutique
located in the fashionable Soho neighborhood of New York, offering
beautiful lingerie, loungewear, and swimwear, from sexy to adorable.
We are known for our large selection of soft bras and bralettes, which
are both functional and comfortable. We have a wide range of sizes,
with cups running up to G and our signature Japanese brand band size
starting from 28.”
“We have a unique collection from all over the world, focusing on
Japanese Brands that cannot be found anywhere else in the world!”
26
BENEATH
THE GOWN
BRANFORD
‘‘
THE BOUTIQUE
“Located in the heart of Branford, Connecticut, a quintessential
New England town, Beneath the Gown offers an exquisite
collection of European designer labels made of fine silks and
laces. Be swept away into a Parisian inspired boutique echoing
old-fashioned romance and timeless experience. Shoppers
can choose from a wide selection of sophisticated, classy,
and feminine lingerie and swimwear. Josie Jolon, owner and
designer, specializes in customizing and custom creating
unique pieces for the client looking for a personalized piece.”
“LQuality, exclusivity, and impeccable service are the
words of the day for this boutique, which provides one-onone complimentary fitting consultations with one of their
specialists. Josie Jolon has become famous for advising and
guiding her clients in selecting the perfect foundations
over a cup of coffee or tea in a relaxing atmosphere. To
add an extra touch of luxury, the boutique organizes
after-hours shopping for clients who want to host a girls’
night or for the customer that wants a more personal
shopping experience with their significant other. The
success and increasing popularity of Beneath the Gown
is due to their attention to detail, getting to know their
clients, and getting to be part of their special moments,
thus welcoming them into the Beneath The Gown family.
Their motto, “A beautiful gown starts with the perfect
foundation”, echoes their aim for every customer to
leave the boutique feeling comfortable, confident and
beautiful. They work with some of the industry’s best
photographers and offer their clients on-site styling the
day of the shoot. Their success is due to the attention
and service they provide all their clients. While they
recommend their clients make an appointment, walk-ins
are always welcome.”
Address: 1120 Main Street,
Branford, CT 06405
Phone: (203) 433-2023
Owners: Josie Jolon
Web Site: www.beneaththegown.com
THEE LINGERIE
SHOPPE
REGINA
Address: 4037 Albert Street,
Regina, SK S4S 3R6
Phone: : (306) 359-3373
Owners: Linda Paul
Web Site: www.tlsbras.com
‘‘
THE BOUTIQUE
“The Lingerie Shoppe opened as a family business in 1979 in
Regina, Saskatchewan. Where, you might ask? Regina is a small
city in central Canada, but we are bursting with small-town
community pride. Over the years we continue to fit women of
all ages and sizes to ensure properly fitting undergarments. To
accomplish our mission we help our customers one at a time
on a personal level and bring them the proper size instead of
promoting a serve yourself atmosphere. Our staff genuinely
cares and enjoys helping women. It’s often a struggle to find the
right size, but we believe with a bit of humor, a lot of compassion,
and the correct knowledge, we can build a relationship with our
customers to make sure they keep coming back!”
“Dianne’s Trick: Dianne likes to show off what she’s wearing!
Don’t be shy and flaunt what you have on! The customers
like to see you are wearing the product as well. She is a
walking billboard!
Linda’s Tip: Treat every customer like they are family. Be
generous with your smiles and hugs!
Val’s Tip: Life is a special occasion. Don’t wait until you lose
weight or have a special occasion – buy and wear for today!
Charlene’s Trick: Laugh, laugh, laugh. Show off your sense of
humor and be able to laugh at yourself.”
28
LEGS PLUS
BRA BOUTIQUE
TORONTO
‘‘
Address: 5867 Leslie St.,
Toronto, ON M2H 1J8, Canada
Phone: (416) 497-2350
Owners: Randi & Rhonda
Web Site: www.braboutique.com
&
THE BOUTIQUE
“Over the past 31 years, Legs Plus & Bra Boutique , has been guiding women of all ages, shapes, and sizes on
how to find the most comfortable, properly fit, & supportive, intimate apparel. Bra Fit enthusiasts and owners,
Rhonda Finkelstein & Randi Szymkowicz & staff, help women discover what well-fitted underpinnings can do
for their appearance and self-esteem. Educating women on the importance of fit allows them to understand
how easy it is to achieve everyday comfort that lasts all day! We are a place that empowers women, and we
help them to feel good about themselves. We make purchasing a bra fun, easy, and convenient, and show how
proper fitting bras & shapewear will enhance their natural beauty. We offer numerous international brands &
styles, the latest silhouettes, colors, & fabrics that are affordable, practical, and fashionable. Size ranges from
28-56 A-N & XS -10X. From minimizers to maximizers, sports bras, maternity, and surgical, we offer the best
selection of intimates available. Customers shop at our boutique because we understand their needs. We
have developed an outstanding reputation based upon our heartwarming personalities and determination to
make our customers feel valued. And it is through this mission that we have created over 31 years of a loyal
following, both in store and online.”
“• On line web boutique since the early 1990’s
• Social media to spread our branding through Twitter &
Facebook
• Customer Appreciation events & offers
• Customer Loyalty program offering dollar value discounts
toward future purchases
• Bra Fit Seminars
• Social conscience: supporting our community &
organizations in need
•E
ducating ourselves and staff on product knowledge and
selling techniques.”
EVENT
Lingerie
Fashion Night
“In”
Highlights of the first Lingerie Fashion Night “In” organized by Eurovet: Créations Lingerie
North America served as its first press partner.
The evening event held last February 24 in TriBeCa Skyline Studios was a success. The evening was
a début event for the organizer Eurovet, which held Lingerie Fashion Night “In”, its very first fashion
show in New York since Pierre-Nicolas Hurstel began running its Curve expos. Present at the event
were 35 brands, 250 buyers, and 60 members of the press, including Créations Lingerie North
America. With a well-planned location, cocktails, buffet, and guests, the event earned praise all
around. But the second annual event will have to respond to feedback related to the length of the
fashion show - which included about 100 items - and the quality of the models, who sometimes
seemed a bit amateur. “The length of the fashion show will be greatly reduced,” explained PierreNicolas Hurstel following the event. “In all the excitement stirred up by the Lingerie Fashion Night ‘In’
campaign, all of the brands wanted to participate!” Model and item selection will be stricter for the
next event, scheduled for February 2015. PHOTOS BY CHARLES ROUSSEL
PSD
SOKOLOFF
CURVY COUTURE
LEONISA
COQUETTE
ELLE MACPHERSON
RAGO
PANACHE
CAKE LINGERIE
LOU
TRIUMPH
EMPREINTE
AUBADE
VANNINA VESPERINI
SIMONE PÉRÈLE
ANITA
INTERVIEW
Smart
Intimates
for Smart
People
Lingerie, shapewear, and now swimwear: after
ALI CUDBLY
about ten years in the business, Commando has
developed a vast selection of technical apparel
that wins over both retailers and consumers.
Here, we explored their recipe for success.
BY FANÇOIS POMÈS
I
n 2003, after ten years in the fast-paced city of New York
holding leadership positions at Weber Shandwick and Edelman Financial, Kerry O’Brien decided to found Commando
in Vermont. Within a few years, the brand had become a
key player in the intimate apparel and hosiery, first in the
United States, and then internationally. The company has become known for its effective and invisible shapewear lines, and
has now begun producing swimwear. What are Commando’s
strengths? How, with simple, technical product, was this company able to take such a sizeable bite of the market while others just broke their teeth? We spoke with the exceptional creator herself to find out.
What is the Commando DNA?
Commando, the pioneer of invisible raw-cut underwear made without elastic or trim, is at the intersection of fashion and function.
Continuous innovation is behind everything we do. Our designs
36
are contemporary, flattering, supremely comfortable, and always
in sync with what’s happening on the runway and on the street. In
fact, Commando is the must-have underwear and hosiery brand
for many top designers when styling their New York Fashion Week
shows each season. In 2012, I was honored to be inducted into the
Council of Fashion Designers of America. It’s quite an honor to be
in the company of industry icons like Josie Natori and Carole Hochman, and I think it speaks to my passion for innovation in intimate
apparel.
How do you create the products?
I always think about the products I would like to wear. What do
my sisters and my friends want? How can we create a garment
that’s uniquely Commando and unlike anything else in the market? Those are the questions that drive me, and my design team,
every day. Undergarments are the first and most intimate thing
a woman puts on when she gets dressed in the morning. It’s the
INTERVIEW
How important and dynamic is the shapewear market in the US
and Canada?
I feel Commando has established a strong, clear voice in the crowded shapewear market by focusing on what we do best. Contemporary designs using luxury technical fabrics with signature raw-cut
invisible edges are our sweet spot. We’re the recognized industry
leader in raw-cut construction. Shapewear is an important and
evolving category within intimate apparel in both the US and Canadian markets and we’re seeing established brands broadening
their distribution channels and price points. We’re concentrating
on what makes Commando different and special rather than diffusing the brand and confusing the consumer.
How different Commando shapewear is compared to other
shapewear brands?
Commando control is the next generation of contemporary
luxury shapewear. We call it smoothed not stuffed because it
provides comfortable, all-day smoothing without the heavy
compression, digging and accompanying discomfort of the industrial-strength shapewear that dominates the market. When
we were launching the category we heard from so many women
that their shapewear makes them feel like a stuffed sausage.
Our light compression and gentle smoothing, combined with
our elastic-free waist, make Commando control the shapewear
they actually want to wear.
basis for a great outfit and can set the mood for her day. I want to
give her styles that are fashionable, fit seamlessly into her busy
lifestyle and make her feel beautiful and confident. We also infuse
a sense of humor and fun into everything we do from hang tags
to playful prints.
Who is the Commando consumer?
The Commando consumer is fashion-conscious and discriminating. She has her pick of intimates brands and chooses Commando
because we make her look and feel fabulous. I also believe she appreciates the fact that our products are made in the USA. We have
teenagers and grandmothers who are fans of the brand, so it really runs the gamut. I think the common thread is these are women
who feel we “get” her and provide products that enhance her life.
She doesn’t want to have to think about her underwear or be concerned with comfort; she knows when she’s going Commando it’s
effortless.
Is it easy to make shapewear lingerie as invisible as possible?
I definitely wouldn’t say creating shapewear that’s invisible is
easy. We’ve worked very hard in the design and product development process to make it a reality and the market has responded
extremely positively. We entered the category with Commando
control in March 2012, a collection of six styles in a sister fabric to
our signature raw-cut microfiber. Since then we’ve expanded our
offering to include the industry’s only raw-cut cotton shapewear
and our recently launched double-faced tech line, which has generated a lot of excitement in the press and with our customers. The
line includes three shaping slip styles in a state-of-the art, doublefaced fabric with cozy cotton on the inside and silky microfiber on
the outside. There’s nothing else like it and it’s quickly becoming
a favorite of fashion editors and celebrity stylists. Our featherlight
control, which is just hitting stores for spring, is our lightest invisible
option, perfect for warmer weather. We will continue to go where
the technology takes us and there are definitely new invisible fabrications in the works.
What are the bestsellers?
All of our control styles are strong sellers and I would say our
thongs, briefs, and new double-faced tech slips are particular
standouts. Commando control hosiery continues to be a very
successful segment of our overall hosiery business, which has
37
INTERVIEW
grown significantly every year since we launched the category in
2009. Our hosiery line is a great example of our approach to new
categories - combining best-in-class luxury legs with our revolutionary, patented dig-free waistband. We’ve developed a truly
unique garment that speaks to our customers’ need for luxury
and comfort.
“We heard
from so many
women that their
shapewear makes
them feel like a
stuffed sausage.”
38
Can your products accommodate full-chested women?
We fit test our products on a wide range of women with many different body types.
What are your top 5 countries where you sell Commando products?
The majority of Commando’s sales are in the US and Canada, with
a growing international presence with customers like Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and our newest worldwide partner, Net-a-Porter.
We’re still a young brand and our distribution strategy has been
focused on establishing strong relationships with the top retailers
in North America. I have a special affinity for the independent specialty boutiques that helped me launch the brand and continue to
be so important to our business today. We’re sold in the best department stores in the world including Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, and Saks Fifth Avenue, as
INTERVIEW
well as online through industry leaders like Bare Necessities and
Her Room. Our retailers are incredible partners and merchants
who have embraced Commando. Building on that momentum, we
see a big opportunity for expanding our international distribution
in the next year or two.
How could you help a retailer to boost their sales with Commando products?
Commando is a very strong and recognizable brand with significant momentum and excitement behind us. We believe creating
incredible products and telling the story of what makes them different and special is the best way to support our retailers. When
fashion editors say our tights are their favorites year after year and
our underwear is called a red carpet must-have by celebrity stylists, this translates to increased sales.
What are the following developments and commitments?
We’re especially excited about new innovations in our control hosiery collection including a super-flattering shapewear legging that
I expect will become a go-to item in my wardrobe.
How important is the swimwear market for you?
We’re very new to the swim category and we’re taking a steady
long-term approach. We launched the Commando reversible
swim collection last July at the Swim Show in Miami, so 2014
will be our first full year of sales. We’re having a lot of fun translating the Commando voice to this new category and we’ve enjoyed some great media exposure. We’ve taken our experience
in expertly fitting a woman’s body and our obsession with luxury
European fabrics and created a well-edited line of reversible
suits that allow our customers to look and feel great whether
lounging by the pool with a cocktail or playing on the beach with
her kids. It’s Commando’s updated take on the rash guard done
in high-tech, raw-cut microfiber with a sexy body-conscious fit
and SPF50+ sun protection. We continue to refine the fit and
the next generation of Commando swim will debut at the Miami
Swim Show this summer. We’re planning to unveil some breakthrough technologies that we’re very excited about.
Which part of your global sales is made by your own website?
Our incredible retail partners are the first line for consumers to
purchase Commando products, but since no one retailer carries
every style, our site is a service and an important touch point for
consumers, buyers, and the press to engage with the brand and
become as excited about it as we are. n
39
FEATURE
New brands,
New Luxury
New corsetry collections are emerging both in independent boutiques and online. Love
Haus is playing the affordable luxury card, while Angela Friedman and Nevaeh Intimates
both cultivate a more expensive luxury niche.
BY LESLIE VALMONT
L
ove Haus, a new Californian corsetry line, aspires to be
"European sexy...at an American price". "We offer affordable luxury with a lot of pieces under $100," says Jaymi
Washburn, Vice President of design. The line, launched
in October 2013, works with fabrics like stretch satin and
French terry from top European mills, but its "edgy, young styles"
looks decidedly Californian. Washburn, who introduced Love Haus
at Curve Las Vegas, emphasizes the daring designs of her sheer
lace bralettes, sultry balconette bras, and micro thong panties.
Love Haus aims to differentiate itself with its original 3-black straps
that replace the usual strap or nude lace, giving an illusion of nudity.
Jaymi Washburn also likes to combine neon color with nude nuances or bright orange with animal prints.
Love Haus, which is aiming for a more contemporary look, is a line
quite different from that of Angela Friedman or Nevaeh Intimates,
two other new brands that are playing the vintage card. Melissa
Franchi, the creator of Nevaeh, a Native American name that translates to "the secret gates of paradise", is inspired by the decadent
glamour of old Hollywood of the 1930s. Her 15-piece collection is
chock full of teasing keyholes, Swarovski crystals, metal bee buttons, and novelties like detachable garters on the brief. Franchi certainly knows how to use colors - midnight seduction, berry forbidden, and purple dusk, among others - as well as pretty prints like
the Monet floral theme.
Word of Mouth and Crowdfunding
Angela Friedman also reveals a love affair with the 1930's and
1940's. A former costume designer of The New York City Ballet,
she avoids "neon or bright colors", preferring instead such hues as
40
"timeless, classic" pink, neutral grays and black...
preferably in Korean silk, or French lace from Solstiss. "I may use a little bit of mesh, 3% spandex,"
she confesses, but nothing looks better to her
eye than old lace appliques or bias cut silk.
These two new brands come in at a much higher
price point than Love Haus. The Italian silks and
Leavers lace of Nevaeh Intimates justify a price
range of $86 to $280. Angela Friedman, known
for her corsets made in the New York Garment
District, charges a luxury price of $475; some
items even retail at $800. "It is hard to find customers," admits Angela Friedman, who is selling
her collection in a few independent boutiques like La Petite Coquette in New York City.
However, word of mouth and the online buzz help. Love Haus is to
be found on www.revolve.com and www.shopobop.com. The Nevaeh floral prints are online at www.bellabellaboutique.com and
www.bychezboutique.com. With the help of Google, The Angela
Friedman Collection is finding converts in Australia, Canada, Russia, and Singapore. She plays it both ways: modern and traditional.
The designer was able to use crowdfunding to launch her company in 2012, asking her potential customers to pay in advance for
their corsets, but she is also trying retro methods like private trunk
shows to grow her company. Angela Friedman welcomes friends
and friends of friends at private home shows, where there is no
fluorescent lighting. Instead, "Candles, food and champagne create an intimate atmosphere," she says. A charming ambiance for
shopping, indeed. n
“These days the plus-size
customer enjoys more
colors, and she look for bras
to wear for any activity.”
ANGELA FRIEDMAN
LOVE HAUS
NEVAEH
“Judith Fine of
Gazebo, who
challenged the
loungewear trend,
said that in her
store, she would
prefer to call
it Presentable
Sleepwear.”
EBERJEY
42
LINGERIE BRIEFS CHRONICLES
Easy Wear:
A New Generation
of Loungewear Shifts
The Intimate Landscape
BY ELLEN LEWIS OF LINGERIE BRIEFS
S
“
omething is happening out here”: loungewear,
whose moniker I am re-labeling to Easy Wear,
is emerging as a viable profit segment in the
Intimate Apparel Industry. My merchant nose
smells a sea change in market attitude towards
this business much as we noticed with shapewear several seasons ago. Although the classification was strong in Paris as it
usually is with brands such as Laurence Tavernier, Pluto and
Hanro front and center, it was the prevalence of the category at
Curve and in NYC showrooms recently that has caught my attention. Two points stand out: sleepwear vendors have shifted
design direction adding several collections meant to be worn
outside of the bedroom and new players have entered the market with clear intent to penetrate the industry via the casual
comfort clothing channel. The opportunity for lingerie retailers to capitalize on this burgeoning apparel tier is substantial.
But, you must remember; this is NOT your mother’s caftan!
Dual Purposes
To examine the underlying influences driving this opportunity,
one needs only to understand the American lifestyle DNA; a focus on action, ease and innovation. As economic necessity has
forced a change in social priorities, women who are always multitasking, are more than ever home, child and health centric and
have become less and less inclined to dress up. They need to put
it on in the morning and move through the day without thinking
about propriety or change. Once a medium attributed primarily
43
LINGERIE BRIEFS CHRONICLES
to the apparel and sports market, the compass has shifted, opening up opportunity for Intimate Retailers. Brands that have driven
this change, such as Lulu Lemon are the purview of a young sophisticated consumer. This trend, interpreted in lightweight, soft
fabrics with a feminine twist has changed the landscape for many
Lingerie stores. For on-line retailers such as Bare necessities.com
and Herroom.com, it has fueled the growth in the active wear, a
current focus for their inventories.
Brands like Eberjey, oft cited by retailers as one of the best performers in this category, saw the light several seasons back.
Founder Mariela Rovito told me “Loungewear today has become
an important part of the ever-growing sleepwear business. We’re
finding that our customer wants to have wardrobe pieces that
serve dual purposes and can be worn both in the house and
out. We’ve seen a big increase in this part of our business and
are incorporating more loungewear styles into our assortment.
Cosabella goes one step further with the introduction of a totally separate brand CSBLA, a lifestyle casual wear line targeted
simultaneously at lingerie boutiques and apparel stores. Guido
Campello, VP of Sales, Branding and Innovation, highlights the
importance of fabrics with textured surfaces, in contemporary
shapes with crossover purpose. “10 years ago loungewear had a
place in the Intimate boutiques and then the bra fitting machine
and sleepwear took over. Now the California influence on fashion
has given this category new life.” And then of course, there is the
PJ Salvage pajama powerhouse, who launched the PJ Luxe Collection a few years ago, confirming their position as a creator of
10 mile wear; easy, comfortable and affordable separates that
go from the bedroom to the kitchen, carpool, supermarket and
home again.
One only need analyze the influence of the Donna Karen design
school, expertly executed for this category by DKNY for Komar, to
comprehend the potential.
From a personal perspective, the influx of brands presenting Easy
Wear in soft seductive materials engineered in modern shapes
is certified by newcomers UGG in cuddly fleece, Maison Papillion in silk and Addition “Nouvelle Lingerie” in micro-modal. And
watching the growth of SKIN, the brand conceived by founder and
designer Susan Beischel to emulate a woman’s quest for serenity, comfort and sensuality, there is no doubt that Easy Wear designed in natural fabrics with comfort as the caché is a creative
force positioned to dominate a woman’s wardrobe. I thought that
the real struggle would be convincing Lingerie retailers of the potential in this business channel. I was surprised at the response.
I asked a group of lingerie retailers’ five questions to fortify my
instincts about this emerging business:
• Do you agree with my observation?
• What is showing promise as far as styles?
• Which brands look and perform well? Why?
• Are you adding any OTB to this space?
• Do you see additional opportunity here?
44
Big Opportunity
First and foremost, no one denied the viability of the category.
Even Judith Fine of Gazebo, who challenged the loungewear
trend, said that in her store, she would prefer to call it Presentable
Sleepwear such as Hanro and Calida. Stores like La Silhouette in
Madeira Ohio, sell classy “hangout Clothes” targeting a customer
40-60 years of age. Pants with baggy tops in fabrics that feel like
cashmere but are not yoga pants are trending. According to owner Britt Cruikshank, color expansion is critical and design details
matter. She mentions brands such as N-Gal and La Perla Studio.
Sarah Wiener, owner of Trousseau on Virginia sees big potential in styles that offer bust support. Sarah says bringing a great
piece into the fitting room helps gain customer interest. Citing
the growth of brands such as Eberjey, Fleur’t, Kenan, Cosabella,
Pj Salvage and Midnight as they expand the category reinforces
the belief that woman are ready to focus on this part of their wardrobes.
Cyla Weiner of Sylenes concurs with the brand assessment mentioned by other boutiques intending to allocate dollars to this
trend. Angie Courtney of Sweetest Sin in Red Bank, NJ is adding
Open To Buy to this niche, seeing additional opportunity in brands
like Between The Sheets. She is actively looking for more independent lines designed in cotton based materials. Cindy Johnson
of Sol of Denver has seen the volume increase consistently for the
past 4 years and already the store has committed to a plus over
last year inventory for fall 2014. Concurring with Sarah’s assessment of educating the customer she told me “I think there is a
big opportunity to add on this sale rather than giving it to another
store. Explaining the benefit to your customer is all it takes and
then they are hooked!” Sarah Wizeman, Lille Boutique in Portland Oregon, calls out Skin as exemplary of fine natural fabrics
designed with trendy details that can be incorporated into Ready
To Wear Wardrobes. Jeanne Emory is expanding her assortment
looking to the prospect of satisfying women up to 3X at Bra Genie
in Mandeville, LA where their best-selling bra sizes are F, FF and G.
She feels that many of the current sleep brands neglect this woman and so she is adding OTB to her budget to satisfy this “normal” woman, looking to brands such as Linda Hartman, Barefoot
Dreams and Ugg for fall. At Bra & Girl in Great Barrington, Mass,
April Burch tells me “cross-over styles or styles that are multifunctional-styles that can function as daywear as well as sleepwear” are the go to items.
At A La Mode in Annapolis, MD, Fleur’t is a growth brand. Searching for crop pants, ¾ tops with bust support, loose, longer t-tops
and forgiving fabrics, owner Patti Platt sees great opportunity
in this domain. Kelly O’Brian of Linger Lingerie states “Customers are looking for soft fabrics with interesting feminine details:
straps, ties, shelf bras (or not) and pockets as well as PJs which
are styled to look like ready-to-wear.” Lindsey cites the casual lifestyle of her Seattle Based business, Bellefleur: “People wanting
a different style of clothing -looser, more free flowing, casual and
BETWEEN THE SHEETS
LAURENCE TAVERNIER
PLUTO
SKIN A
comfortable yet attractive and less conservative- to wear
for festivals, cruises, summer homes, and vacations has
also always been a popular concept here.” Lindsey Runyon cites Only Hearts for their “on trend” styling and
Cosabella for their “great color” She sees opportunity
in the concept of “elegant lounging” for future growth.
When I asked Barbara’s New Beginnings about the expansion of the Lounge category Barbara told me “Absolutely! The variety and trendiness in the new fall season’s
offerings are inspiring! We are excited to carry more styles
of loungewear to make our customers feel and look amazing
during their downtime or even for cozy errand-running.”
There comes a point in life when women shift their priorities.
Sometimes it’s about family, but often, it is a coming into one’s
own self. As a lifelong advocate of simple comfort as a statement of elegance in fashion, I am excited about the rise in Easy
Wear in the Intimate Market. Above all else, it satisfies a lifestyle
need that if designed and proffered correctly, will establish itself
as a critical piece of Lingerie Boutique Inventories. n
FROU FROU
FLEUR’T
WHATIS LINGERIE BRIEFS?
BETWEEN THE SHEETS
P.J. SALVAGE
One of the ‘must read’ lingerie sites, Lingerie Briefs is a literary collection of intimate apparel news, trends, and opinions
by lingerie insider ~ Ellen Lewis (and now
others!)
Since 2009 Ellen Lewis has been expressing her creative and personal impressions of the world of intimate apparel
twice-weekly on Lingerie Briefs. She delivers poetically written reviews on domestic & international brands as well as up
and coming designers and products. Her
articles illustrate items newsworthy and
recommended for the small to medium
lingerie boutiques and chains. Ellen’s
merchandising expertise and history in
the Intimate Apparel market is the backbone of Lingerie Briefs.
Lingerie Briefs has a topical pulse on
the Intimate Apparel Industry reaching a
specialized ‘niche’ of lingerie buyers and
industry pros from around the globe as
well as a loyal and rapidly growing consumer readership.
WWW.LINGERIEBRIEFS.COM
MAISON DE PAPILLON
N GAL
DKNY
FLEUR’T
VA BIEN
Corsetry
INTERVIEW
« Diane von
Furstenberg
carries Yummie
and it’s perfect for
women trying on
dresses who need
some smoothing.”
Heather Thomson,
A Real Shapewear Star
How has the brand Yummie become so successful
so quickly in the expansive shapewear market, to
the envy of many key players in the industry? We sat
down with Yummie’s founder, Heather Thomson.
BY FANÇOIS POMÈS
S
he may have been on Real Housewives of New York
in 2012, a show whose cast members often become
household names, but Heather Thomson is first
and foremost a businesswoman. As a fashion designer with more than twenty years of experience,
she has worked for numerous brands, such as Calvin Klein, before launching her own company, Yummie, in 2008. The brand
Yummie by Heather Thomson was born out of Thomson’s desire for comfortable, invisible, effective shapewear undergarments, which she wasn’t finding on the market. Her first product, the Original Tank, which is still available, was the spark that
first ignited the business. After its début, the tank got lucky:
it was chosen by Oprah as one of her “favorite things”, which
led countless customers to discover Yummie’s products -- and
to never let them go! We spoke with Heather Thomson, rising
shapewear star.
50
How important and dynamic is the shapewear market in the US
and Canada?
Shapewear is an important category in both the US and Canada,
with much growth in the department store channels. Thanks to
advances in technology, the market has also evolved. Innovations
like Outlast® technology, lightweight garments with 360-degree
elasticity, and breathability have been a large part of the Yummie
business.
What makes Yummie unique?
Yummie is a collection of everyday form-flattering women’s essentials designed for comfort and confidence. I always say, “Forget
everything you know about shapewear!”
What are Yummie consumers like?
Yummie is for all women of all ages and sizes who want to look and
INTERVIEW
feel their best every day. The Yummie woman is bold, confident,
sexy and strong and wants to rock what she’s got from the gym to
the boardroom to happy hour.
How different is Yummie shapewear compared to other
shapewear brands?
Research we conducted found that women want everyday comfort with smoothing properties and don’t want to feel scrunched
or shoved into a sausage casing, as a result. A lot of shapewear in
the past has been focused on special occasions. Yummie is about
everyday shaping solutions to make you feel confident all the time,
not just for a special moment.
What are the more dynamic categories and markets for you?
We just launched bras and active daywear panties in August! Our
shapewear collection will continue to evolve and we’re excited to
expand into other markets like intimates, hosiery and activewear.
We strive to be a lifestyle brand that is synonymous with confidence and feeling your best every day.
What are the bestsellers?
Yummie launched as a top-down solution – intead of bottomup like some other brands – with our patented original 3-panel
Yummie Tummie tank. The tank is ingrained in the DNA of the
brand and is something women look for when they come to
Yummie: a little hug around the midsection to smooth and slim!
Yummie leggings shape throughout the waist, thighs, and leg
and women can’t get enough of them. You can really wear them
with a blazer to the office or to the gym with a tank. Leggings
seemed like a natural progression for the brand since they are
naturally a body-conscious product so we thought, why not
throw some shaping technology into them?
Can your products accommodate full-chested women?
Yes! We are an inclusive brand, not exclusive. Yummie bras are hitting
the floors this March and four out of six styles fit up to a DD cup.
Where do your fabrics come from?
Our fabrics come from many regions of Asia as well as Israel. The
fabrics are not specifically designed for Yummie, but we are certainly the front runners in the market with newness.
How do you recruit and select your retailers?
Our sales approach is multifaceted. We have a long standing
relationship with retailers who have carried Yummie from the
start. Many came to us after the priginal 3-panel Yummie Tummie tank was featured as one of “Oprah’s Favorite Things” and
still do. Today we invite existing retailers to our showroom to
view our newest collections each season or we visit their stores.
In addition we attend trade shows domestically and internationally to educate stores on our brand. Each trade show draws a
specific customer base, for example the trade show in Paris
invites lingerie stores in Europe, and another show in New York
brings ready-to-wear stores in the US. We choose the shows that
align with our brand positioning and market to the attendees at
those shows.
How could you help retailers boost their sales with Yummie
products?
Yummie shapewear is an everyday accessory to your outfit; it
should be as essential as your bras and panties and a complement
to your overall look. Offering these types of pieces to the consumer
allows retailers serve as a one stop shop and helps them sell their
product. Diane von Furstenberg carries Yummie and it’s perfect for
women trying on dresses who need some smoothing. Shapewear
has become essential to everyday dress; not offering it can hinder
sales and customer service. I can’t imagine walking into a department store or boutique and not having shaping garments as an option to layer underneath a dress I’m trying on - it’s essential!
Do you think about shape/swimwear?
All the time! Who knows what the future will bring…
he rash guard done in high-tech, raw-cut microfiber with a sexy
body-conscious fit and SPF50+ sun protection. We continue to
refine the fit and the next generation of Commando swim will
debut at the Miami Swim Show this summer. We’re planning to
unveil some breakthrough technologies that we’re very excited
about. n
51
FEATURE
Plus-Size Lingerie is
Becoming Fashionable
Plus-size lingerie is graduating from a niche
market to a prominent category. Brands
are expanding their merchandise to include
innovative fabrics, pretty lace, and colors.
BY LESLIE VALMONT
P
lus-size is the new normal. According to Ibis World’s
industry analysis of lingerie stores in America, the
average woman’s bra size increased from 34B to
36C over the past two decades. This growth is driven by the increasing number of Americans who are
considered overweight or obese. Caitlin Moldway, the author of
the Ibis World Report, quotes the Journal of the American Medical Association. In 2008, 68% of Americans were overweight
and that trend is expanding. The Journal expects 75% of female adults to be in this category by 2015. Consequently, this
will make a quantitative impact on the demand for bras, which
represent 48% of the lingerie business. “Sales of larger bra
sizes such as DD, DDD and G cups have been gaining in popularity over the past 5 years,” observed Caitlin Moldway, and
lingerie boutiques are adjusting. “They are expecting to tailor
their product lines to include a wider array of styles and fits,”
concluded the analyst. Erica Windle, the owner of A Sophisticated Pair in Burlington, North Carolina, is among the retailers trying to adjust to this trend, but fashionably. Elomi, from
the Wacoal Eveden Group, is her best selling line. “Elomi nailed
these plus-size customers,” she said. “The brand blends very
supportive high-quality bras with a sense of carefree pleasure.”
Erica Windle particularly appreciates “the adorable floral prints
bra that has a certain little twist”. “The petals are diamond
shaped which gives them contemporary look,” explained the
Sophisticated Pair retailer. For the customer who doesn’t want
to pay $66 for an Elomi bra, Erica Windle suggests Goddess as
52
“These days the
plus-size customer
enjoys more colors,
and she look for
bras to wear for
any activity.”
AFFINITAS
53
an alternative, another Eveden brand that provides the Elomi
fit at a lower price.
The Sophisticated Pair recommendations are music to the
ears of Mary Alice Kelly. As Head of Product Strategy at Wacoal
Eveden she sees the “fun, fresh, super feminine” Elomi as being
“our fastest growing brand on the global market”. And, the new
proposals for Winter 2014 are all trying to maintain this youthful image, especially Amelia, the hot pink cerise underwired
spacer molded bra with lace sides. “It is all about how we lift,
shape and smooth to flatter your curves,” said Mary Alice Kelly.
Useful details
ANITA
AFFINITAS
LE MYSTÈRE
Elomi and Goddess are not the only ones catering to the sophisticated plus-size consumer. Curvy Couture, Panache, Anita, Le Mystere, Parfait by Affinitas, and Wacoal are all working
on lingerie solutions for the full-figured female.
Dora Lau, President of Curvy Couture, boasts 20 years of experience with curvy girls. Her prior work with Lane Bryant and
JC Penney private brands taught her how to design “seamless molding so that left and right breasts don’t spread apart”.
“Typically, a woman’s apexes are 14 inches apart,” she says.
“Our goal is to narrow that distance to 10 inches by shaping
the mold.” The result? “We lift up the breasts and give her a
natural, rounded cup in the shape of her bosom.” Dora Lau also
talks about the foam of the T-shirt bra that is soft on the inside,
harder on the outside “for natural projection”. She likes heat
fuse double layer fabrics for the support. The bottom band as
well as the straps are cushioned with a V-back design to prevent the straps from falling. Contour is the number-one selling of Wacoal and is built differently with a three-part cup in
shades of black, nude, and cappuccino with an embroidered
band. Contour starts with B cups and runs up to size J. The
best sellers of Parfait by Affinitas also carry a three-piece cup
with useful little details. The distance of the straps in the back
is narrower and the hook is wider. The purple Carole option is
available in size 30-40D, DD, E, F, FF, and G.
Beautiful bras derive from their shape and their fabrics. Jessica Pfister, Vice President of Le Mystere explains the bonding technology that links together lace and microfiber or that
laminates lace into a tricot lining. “This new technology gives
the embroidery a very flat look,” she marvels. Dora Lau recommends three layers of fabric for support, smoothness, and
external beauty. There is a final touch of embroidered lace on
the third level. Eveden designers experiment with spacer foam,
a soft, lightweight fabric that produces a molded shape without
adding any size on top.
Seductive colors
Colors used to be limited, but not anymore. Le Mystere offers
daring colors like indigo, plum, crushed berry, pale pink chiffon, Aqua mist, and Monaco blue. Goddess offers a mini-floral
ELOMI
design in peony color. Elomi announces for winter 2014 a fiery
red and hot passionate pink. Wacoal dabbles into coral for its
basic seamless stretch bra. Of course, “We have to add va va
voom!” jokes Dora Lau, the Curvy Couture founder. French
lace, tuxedo bow, and little medallion are all welcome features.
Dora Lau places a small keyhole on the front and “bling bling
embroidery” on the strap.
These days the plus-size customer enjoys more colors, and
she will also look for bras to wear for any activity. She can run,
swim, dance, and relax in her boudoir. Panache, for example,
is strong in the sports category. For Fall 2014, the brand has
a non-wire bra of up to H cup size, in purple, grey and pink.
Eveden favors the swimming pool. Its Elomi line has a real cup
size bra that can be worn with a brief or a tankini. Le Mystere,
a subsidiary of Komar, will very soon offer a G-cup G
cup for special occasions. The new bustier, featuring
sheer tricot lining, soft foam pad, and silicon all over
to keep it in place, will be available in either black or
ivory.
Most women want to have fun and an increasing
number of brands try to comply. Parfait by Affinitas is replacing the classical bras with Baby dolls,
camisoles and bustiers. The ivory or black babydoll
with a tassel at the center is cut in stretch satin and
mesh in the back. 40K cup sizes are available.
The Celine model is a polka dot underwire camisole and the Tamara is more of a bustier with removable garters and straps. The purple Celine
40G may easily be worn as outerwear; the black
Tamara can be, as well. “Tamara is made of nonstretch lace,” indicates Marcia Shally from Parfait by Affinitas. “It is definitely more seductive.”
“Very sensual” is another term used by Erica
Windle, the Sophisticated Pair retailer, in de-
CORIN
ELOMI
scribing Jocelyn, her number-one fashion bra. The Elomi model, she explains, has a plunging design, with fuchsia stretch
lace over the cup: just enough plunge and lace to reveal a little
cleavage. n
LE MYSTÈRE
55
ANITA CARE
corsetry
WINTER 2014/2015 COLLECTIONS
EMPREINTE
CLEAR LIGHT
AGUA BENDITA
TRIUMPH
56
ROSA FAIA
MIEL
WACOAL
JANE WOOLRICH
LE MYSTERE
JULIE FRANCE
57
PARISA
AFFINITAS
corsetry
THE PURPLE
PANTHER
HUIT
LE MYSTÈRE
STELLA
MCCARTNEY
MILLESIA
58
corsetry
RED
SASSA
EPRISE
B.TEMP’D
ANITA MATERNITY
60
LOU
corsetry
LISE CHARMEL
RED
MILLESIA
COSABELLA
LE MYSTÈRE
PARFAIT
62
PARFAIT
LISE CHARMEL
ANTIGEL
CACHE CŒUR
ANITA ACTIVE
TRIUMPH
SHADOWS
63
EPRISE
corsetry
LOU
ONLY HEARTS
PARISA
SHADOWS
JEZEBEL
64
PLUTO
Loungewear
& Hosiery
loungewear
DONNA REIS
PAJAMA DRAMA
JANE WOOLRICH
CACHE COEUR
66
CALIDA
PLUTO ON THE MOON
PLUTO
ONLY HEARTS
CHRISTINE LINGERIE
HANRO
CETTE
hosiery
JANIE BRYANT
WOLFORD
JANIE BRYANT
CETTE
68
A.CHÉ
Beachwear
beachwear
WINTER 2014/2015 CRUISE COLLECTIONS
PARISA
MIRACLESUIT
BLUE
LAGOON
ROSAFAIA
LIMONADA
KARLA COLLETTO
70
beachwear
STYLISH
LISE CHARMEL
AGUA BENDITA
SHAN
LISA RIEDT
71
ANITA CARE
beachwear
LISA RIEDT
ANTIGEL
BRIGHT
COLORS
ANITA
MATERNITY
SILVIAN
IMBERG
MARYAN
MEHLHORN
72
Men’s
Intimate
apparel
LEONISA
FEATURE
“Technical fabrics
and performance
specialized for the
sport are important
factors, but brand
identity is just as
influential.”
PAPUA
74
The Many
Subcultures of the
Men’s Swimwear Market
From rooftop pools to paddling in the ocean, selling men’s
swimwear is about more than just the design. BY RHEA CORTADO
W
hen it comes to men’s underwear, fit, fabric, and
consistency is everything. Men are known to be
diehard loyal to their underwear brands and buy
multiples of the same style once they find their
favorite. Men’s swimwear buying habits, however,
more closely resemble how they buy fashion basics, like T-shirts or
jeans. Tried and true brands are at the top of the go-to list, but men
can still be lured into shops by an exciting color, a never-before-seen
print, an updated length, or an aspirational lifestyle message. “Swimsuits are not run-of-the-mill anymore,” said Nathan Romano, director of sales for New York-based luxury swimwear brand Onia swimwear. “We all want fabrics that perform and have purpose.”
From the young urban professional who wears stylish trunks to
rooftop hotel pool parties to the athletic waterman who sails and
surfs, the best men’s swim brands design for the culture of the customer, too.
The sophisticated shopper
“I saw a void in the market for cool, modern, resort lifestyle apparel,” said founder of Surfside Supply Company Chris Manley. The
New York-based brand found a niche in the contemporary men’s
market to dress the stylish city guy that is up to date on the latest hot restaurants and shops, but doesn’t take his wardrobe that
seriously. Manley grew up spending summers at the beach and his
brand extends the feeling of vacation wear all year long, even in urban daily life.
Surfside Supply Company apparel silhouettes and fabrics are
very laid back — think French terry, cotton knits, and chambrays
— and the brand’s surf trunks follow suit by combining the “island
beach lifestyle… with a slight urban twist”. Basic trunks that hit at
mid-thigh in quick-drying, rigid nylon are among its top sellers, and
75
BEACHRAYS
Manly says stretch fabrics are starting to gain traction.
“We see the growth coming from updated traditional stores
and cool specialty stores,” Manley said. Surfside Supply
Company is currently sold in Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue,
Bloomingdales, Neiman Marcus, and several higher-end specialty stores. “We can be the bridge from the premium denim
department to the modern sportswear guy. We believe we can
define a new space in the market,” Manley said.
Surfside Supply Company’s strategy is a common scenario of
up-and-coming brands. Every year customers spend more and
more shopping online, which turns brand names and specific
style names into search terms for customers that want to see
the best selection and best price. Curated specialty stores are
the place of discovery and a space where younger brands can
thrive given the personalized experience.
Onia gets its luxury swim trunks in front of customers during
the most opportune time to desire a new
pair — while they are on vacation. In addition to being sold in luxury department stores and boutiques, Onia can
be found at many hotels and resorts
worldwide including David Jones in
Australia, The Four Seasons in Maui,
The Viceroy in Anguilla, and the Burj
al Arab in Dubai. Onia’s retail prices
range from $120 to $195, and its
lower-priced Trunks Surf & Swim
line that caters to a surf customer range in retail price from
$48 to $54.
“Onia is catered toward the
jet setter. He buys everything
76
SHAN
based on quality over quantity and appreciates details, refinement and classic looks,” Romano said. Based on a tailored fit,
and the primary inseam length hovering around 7 1/2” and 8
3/8” Onia experiments with cotton and nylon blends, nylon
blends, yarn/dyed cotton nylon stripes, and custom prints on
100% nylon. “People are responding well to fresh fabrications,”
Romano said.
Veteran swimwear brand Shan has consistently built its customer loyalty and reputation on its timeless look and quality materials. “The consumer seeking Shan’s swimwear and
ready-to-wear loves its classic shapes, colors and patterns.
Shan allows men to follow trend and be stylish, yet remaining
chic at all times,” said Anne-Marie Montgrain, sales and customer service coordinator for Shan. Quebec-based Shan is
sold in its own retail stores in Laval, Montreal, Toronto, Brossard, and Saint-Sauveur in Canada, and Miami, Florida. Retail
prices range from $130 to $200.
Since silhouettes remain classic, Shan
infuses new excitement in bright solid
colors in red and orange, and the traditional navy and black. “Over the
years, we’ve noticed that men seeking a classic look are now daring to
pick bright colors and bold prints.
They are also more open to playing
with different lengths and textures
in materials,” Montgrain said. In
response, Shan offers a variety of
fabric blends including spandex,
ONIA
high-end cotton fibers and express-dry polyester to address
the demand for trunks to dry
ADIDAS
quickly. “The buying experience is based on feelings. Men will
often shop to respond to a specific need but ultimately, if the
product speaks to the consumer, it will sell,” continued Montgrain. “Men look for comfort, look and versatility.”
The active lifestyle
For the active lifestyle practitioner — be it sailing on a boat, surfing,
or stand-up paddle boarding in the ocean, or wakeboarding and
swimming in a lake — technical fabrics and performance specialized for the sport are important factors, but brand identity is just
as influential. Take the original boat shoe brand, Sperry Top-Sider.
Manhattan Beachwear stretches the iconic footwear’s preppy look
into a head-to-toe outfit for the same coastal enthusiast.
“Sperry Top-Sider swimwear resonates best when we interpret
the brand DNA correctly and use details that tie back to the
original boat shoe: nautical details, grommets, and roping,” said
Howie Greller, VP of design and merchandising for Manhattan
Beachwear, which holds the license for Sperry Top-Sider men’s
and women’s watersports apparel. While the fashion-conscious
customer dabbles in shorter inseam lengths, the active customer
prefers the traditional outseams ranging from 17” up to 21” with
the average hovering around 19” outseam. Four-way stretch and
lightweight fabrication are musts for the average 25-year-old
Sperry Top-Sider customer. Price points are just under $60 retail.
In the case of global athletic brand Adidas, Manhattan Beachwear adapts its design to ensure Adidas swimwear flows easily
into the sporting goods store environment. Basketball and gym
short lengths are much longer in the 21” to 24” outseam range
and “techno” graphics are key. “Elastic waist shorts with a basketball influence, the classic three-stripe styling, and comfortable fit
are three key elements in each collection,” Greller said of Adidas
swimwear, which Manhattan Beachwear holds the license for in
SURFSIDE SUPPLY COMPANY
SPERRY
men’s and women’s swimwear.
Surf brands have perfected the art of four-way stretch, fast-drying
and lightweight fabric, and invisible seams that combat board short
rash. Look no further than Hurley’s revolutionary Phantom board
short empire that has the most skilled surfers and weekend riders
returning season after season. Each of the top surf companies has
their own version of the performance short. Quiksilver has the fourway stretch diamond dobby fabric. Billabong has the Platinum X
Quad Stretch, H2 Repel and Recycler ZG fabric made from recycled polyester. Rip Curl’s ultimate Mirage board short made with
Quadroflex stretch has one-piece construction that eliminates irritating seam rub on the skin.
Given that larger brands have the technical board short market
cornered, new brands chose to compete in niche fashion, with
unique prints, and by offering an alternative leisure lifestyle.
The seasoned swim industry manufacturers behind J.Y. Rays Inc.
— known for its Beach Rays line that is sold at Kohl’s — launched
its new surf brand Vast in 2012. The brand fits between the two
worlds of mainstream surf brands and ultra-niche fashion brands.
Vast covers the bases by offering board shorts in recycled four-way
stretch fabric, a bamboo/carbon four-way stretch with antibacterial properties and a cocotex fabric made from coconut fibers. “I
wanted to create a print story that was different and that stood
apart from any existing surf lines,” said Vast’s Head Designer, Hugo
Quintana. The original artwork is inspired by “particles, wire frame
mappings, RGB imaging and digital geometrics”.
True to surf lifestyle brands of all sizes, Vast will be going on a surf
trip to document its newest collection for 2015 and hopefully lure
more converts to their side. “We are preparing for a trip to Hawaii
to do our annual camping trip,” said Terrence Campbell, director of
sales for J.Y. Rays Inc. “We see the potential for Vast to give new life
to the sport of surfing as well as refresh its current population.” n
77
men’s underwear
HANRO
EQUMEN
SHAN
GARÇON MODEL
78
LEONISA
GREGG
CALIDA
CALIDA
SHAN
KEN WROY
79
fairs
MAY 2014
n 9-11
SHENZHEN FAIR
Shenzhen
www.siuf.com
JULY 2014
n 5-7
MODE CITY
Paris
www.lingerie-swimwear-paris.com
n 5-7
INTERFILIÈRE
Paris
www.interfiliere.com
n 19-22
MIAMI SWIMSHOW
Miami
www.swimshow.com
n 20-22 LONDON SWIMWEAR SHOW
Londres
www.londonswimwearshow.com
n 22-23
PREMIÈRE VISION PREVIEW
New York
www.premierevision-newyork.com
AUGUST 2014
n 3-5
CURVENY
New York
www.curvexpo.com
n 18-19
CURVENV
Las Vegas
www.curvexpo.com
Curve NV Mixes and Matches
Classic and Emerging Brands
The reenergized lingerie show, mixing classic brands like Wacoal, Eveden, and Carole Hochman with
newer merchandise, attracted 2,000 visitors from neighboring states.
C
urve NV in Las Vegas is a small, intimate trade show,
focused on specific buyers from California, Nevada, Arizona, Texas, and Canada. In a nutshell, that’s how Pierre
Nicolas Hurstel, CEO of Curvexpo, sees the event, held
over two days, February 17 and 18, at the Venetian Hotel.
This year, Curve NV, subsidiary of the French Eurovet Group, and its
100 exhibitors hosted 2,000 buyers. The reenergized show, “does the
job”, proclaimed Pierre Nicolas Hurstel, because “brand representatives see their loyal followers as well as new visitors who tend to order
right away on the floor.” This year, 300 non pre-registered visitors,
creators of new boutiques or e-stores, showed up at Curve NV: people
like Kim Johnson, co-founder of Dplus Club, an internet startup, selling
plus-size bras online. Buyers may also spill over from other shows on
the same floor. Twenty percent of the lingerie visitors come from Capsule, Agenda, and Liberty, the neighboring apparel shows.
If needed, the Pierre Nicolas Hurstel team is ready to play the role
of personal shopper for their demanding buyers. Curve NV mixes
82
BY FRANÇOIS POMÈS / PHOTOS BY C. ROUSSEL
and matches classic solid brands and emerging products. Terresa
Zimmerman, Southern Californian creator of Wood underwear
for men, offers cotton modal elastane to the “everyday guy”. Her
collegiate colors have inspired undies at $20 apiece, promising
“sexy styles but not sex” and “provocative lingerie but not too
much of it”. Jaymi Washburn, designer of Love Haus, also has the
“edgy, young” consumer in mind, but targets those of the female
persuasion. Love Haus combines a European esthetic with US
prices, and it is all about features like bustiers, plunging necklines,
bralettes, demi-cut bras, and micro thongs. Jaymi Washburn
tries to differentiate her brand by mixing neon colors and nude
or chevron prints in nude and grey. A few exhibitors away stood
Denis Tugdual, Sales Vice President of Oh la la! Cheri. The brand,
created by a Frenchman in Miami, is launching a plus-size segment for women who are seeking “sexy, and a little naughty” lingerie. “65% of the American market is plus-size,” explained Tugdual, brandishing a black and red baby doll piece. The exhibitor is
tapping into this big trend. “I need Plus sizes,” said Linda Romps,
the owner of the store UP Bras That Fit, in Escanaba, Michigan.
“We are corn fed,” she joked, “so we need bigger band sizes.” She
continued, “We want pretty F cup for full figures at low prices. My
competition is WalMart so I have to adjust my pricing strategy. At
$30 a bra, my customer might just have a stroke.” Linda Romps
is a regular at Wacoal’s and Eveden’s booths, and this time, to
change it up, Oh la la! Cheri.
Luxury aficionados will be drawn to Vannina Vesperini and Maison de Papillon, the silk experts. Celine Cabanac, CEO advisor
of the French firm Vannina Vesperini, is plotting the return of its
brand on the American market with arty silk and lace camisoles
at $165 each. “This time, you can reorder quickly and still have
quality service,” assured Cabanac. Not far away, Danielle Salinas,
the designer of Maison de Papillon presented her 24/7 collection.
A cashmere and silk collection that women can wear “from the
bedroom to the boardroom.” Indoors and out. n
83
FAIRS
CurveNY: No Increase
in Visitors in February 2014
A
fter an exceptional showing in February 2013, with a 16% rise in the number of visitors, CurveNY attendance is leveling off. Despite this minor slowdown, American stores confirmed their
interest in CurveNY, whose most recent event logged 2,700 buyers. “This show still allowed us
to find out about new retailers and to strengthen our network in North America,” Olivier Piquet,
General Director of Lise Charmel, was pleased to say. Other French groups that attended, like
Millesia and Luli, didn’t find visitor numbers at their stand to be overwhelming, but did make some very good
contacts. While swimwear and menswear may not have had a sizeable presence this year, there was a strong
representation of loungewear brands, like PJ Salvage, Pluto, Laurence Tavernier, and Bedhead Pajamas, and
good visibility for maternity lines, with Anita Maternity, Cake Lingerie, and a new arrival, Cache Coeur. Among
notable seminars, Ali Cudby, CEO of Fab Foundations, offered 7 steps to boost your lingerie business. The
next CurveNY will take place next August 3-5 at the Javits Center in New York. n FP / PHOTOS BY-S. KOSSMANN
84
The Miami Swim Show
Adds 400,000 Square Feet to its
Already-Enormous Event!
A leader in the swimwear market, the Miami Swim Show must face aggressive competition in its own
sector, which it has been building for over 30 years. Its solution: keep growing. BY FRANÇOIS POMÈS
“W
ithout a doubt, the Miami Swim Show is the
place to be for swimwear,” an exhibitor told
us on the first day of this swimsuit high holiday, which held its 31st annual event in July
2013. With an additional 400,000 square
feet, isn’t there even more risk of drowning in what was already an
abundant selection? “It will take more time to plan our visit and to be
practical,” a buyer admitted. Indeed, with almost 500 exhibitors, the
Miami Swim Show is a mecca for swimwear and accessories, albeit a
bit long (four days), but it can be incredibly efficient for a retailer that
already knows what he or she is looking for. For brands, business here
is also worthwhile, as long as their booths offer an attractive layout;
and unlike at Curve events, at the Miami Swim Show it is possible for
power players to set up enormous booths, with built-in catwalks and
offices!
“The show is always a starting point for the new swim season,” said
Carlos Cortes of Malibu Design Group in 2013. “Our booth has always been busy, and we signed several new clients thanks to the
launch of the Betsey Johnson swim line. We were happy to see the
show’s expansion, with so many new brands, because competition
makes the season more exciting!” Always a source of new trends, the
show, programmed in coordination with the Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Week Swim, hosts a wide selection of South American brands, from
the most established, like Agua Bendita and Luli Fama, to the lesser
known, like Crasqi. The 32nd annual Miami Swim Show will take place
July 19-22, 2014 at the Miami Convention Center. n
85
3 QUESTIONS TO
MELISSA ODABASH,
DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
FAIRS
What do you think a perfect swimsuit should
be? Why? How do you translate it into your
collections?
Melissa Odabash : The perfect swimsuit
should accentuate your strongest assets and
hide the areas you’re least strongest. When I
am designing I try to keep various body shapes
in mind– pear/apple/curvy etc – this is so
important because everyone is different and at
least I can try and offer something that can suit
everyone.grand nombre.
Your collections do include quite an important
part of beachwear items.Why?
M. O. : My label has turned into a lifestyle brand
so I have to design for a full summer wardrobe
that can take you from the beach to ‘après
plage’. Beachwear is the best complement to
swimwear so it made sense to offer this to my
clients along with accessories.
What makes your whole offer different than
the other brands of the market?
M. O. : This isn’t something that happens
overnight – it takes years of getting the right fit,
the right fabric, the right construction. I have
a very loyal following because they know they
will get confidence from my designs when you
are at your most vulnerable. I have been lucky
enough to have always had a big celebrity
following, I think it is because they feel secure
when on the beach in the public eye.
A Taste of Parisian Shows in July
Mode City and Interfilière will open their doors on the 5-7th of July this year. What are the main lines and
themes that will be addressed there? An overview. BY VALÉRIE CHARIER
MODE CITY REPEATS “ABSOLUTE SUMMER”
The forum, an unmissable meeting
where fashion lines will be decrypted,
works like a shop, taking the lead from
the last SIL. But this time, there will be
two shops to correspond to the real size
of multibrands. These will join up to offer swimwear and lingerie. The aim: to
be “trendier” than last January, but also
to give clear directions for presentation
and packing including gift ideas.
Outside the hall, “Absolute Summer” -
86
launched last year to welcome the general public and “educate” - is gaining
momentum, with a number of competitions organised in collaboration with
women’s magazines (confirmed so far:
Madame Figaro, Elle and Femme Actuelle) to win tickets.
INTERFILIÈRE PICKS APART
FIBRES
Fibre was and still remains a great source
of many technical innovations in lingerie. The show pays homage to it and also
plans to host a themed conference which
will take a look at the material with a playful workshop - a kind of mini laboratory
which will allow guests to better understand fibres, choose them and interact
with them. Another novelty: the forum
dedicated to swimwear has moved, nestling itself in the heart of the “neoskin” area
beside fabric and mesh, leading suppliers
of swimwear products. It spreads out over
200 m2 and aims to be “a place of life, living and surprising,” says Laurence Nérée,
the show’s commissioner. n
SHANGAI
SHOWS:
10TH ANNIVERSARY
Interfilière Shanghai and Shanghai Mode Lingerie
Celebrate 10 Years With an In-depth Study of The
Major Asian Markets
BY FRANÇOIS POMÈS
C
elebrating their 10th anniversary, Interfilière Shanghai & Shanghai Mode Lingerie, are back on October
20-21, 2014 at the Shanghai Exhibition Center with
a complete offer of intimates and swimwear. For
the 2014 anniversary edition, Eurovet is doing an
in-depth study of the major Asian markets including China, Hong
Kong, Taiwan, Japan, Korea, India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Vietnam,
Pakistan, Indonesia and Thailand. Herewith panel discussions will
be held in six cities and capitals; Shanghai, Beijing, Chengdu, Seoul,
Tokyo and Taipei. The first results will be released during Interfilière
Paris and Mode City Paris on 5-7 July, 2014 before the grand unveiling on October 20-21 at Interfilière Shanghai and Shanghai Mode
Lingerie during some expert conferences and round table discussions.
Alongside the research, the shows will be celebrated with festive
networking events where exhibitors and visitors that have been
part of this success will be thanked for their continuous support.
After ten years, a tribute will be paid to the companies that have
grown with the shows. Several special events will take place at different locations during the two days bringing everyone a sense of
happiness, friendship and surprise.
Building on the swimwear and beachwear focus and demand of
the trade visitors, Interfilière Shanghai will hold for the first time,
two trend forums. One will be focused solely on intimates and
loungewear whilst the other forum will have a swimwear and
beachwear focus. The trends for Spring/Summer 2015-16 will be
exquisitely presented across those two exceptional happenings.
With the growth of the show on an international level, Interfilière
Shanghai will host a German pavilion which will also be covering
Shanghai Mode Lingerie brands.
Succeeding the achievement of the last edition, Shanghai Mode
Lingerie is moving back into the Central Hall where it can welcome
more local and international brands. This will give the local and already well-represented international brands in China and Asia the
chance to have a larger and more decorated booth in order to gain
more brand recognition from among the top agents, distributors
and department stores visiting the show. n
87
ENCAJES
LLER.
MUEHLMEIER
SOLSTISS
LINA
JERSEY LOMEL
fabrics
HÄNDEL + DI
FABRICS NEWS
BY VALÉRIE CHARIER
PENN TEXTILE SOLUTIONS
IMPROVES THEIR FLORAL LACE
SHAPEWEAR RANGE
The company already offers a large range of shaping fabrics, of
differing strength and support, (from 100 to 165g/m2, for light
to heavy support). They now present their new «Powerlace»
line of floral and graphic patterns on lace and bands. Soft to the
touch, these lace fabrics have a real toning effect, recognised by
their Lycra® Beauty certification.
LIEBAERT DEVELOP THEIR
PRINTING CAPACITY
The Belgian manufacturer, which has been offering digital
printing for six years, has invested 1.5 million Euros in a new
pigment printing line. The first collection of prints made in
such a way was unveiled in January. Liebaert also provided a
new sampling table “so as to be responsive and comply with
market demands”. (see photo opposite).
HÄNDEL + DILLER
EXTEND THEIR RANGE
The German manufacturer complete
their range of unique combinations, taking advantage of natural fibres (cotton or
linen with Tencel®, MicroModal® with silk,
wool or even SeaCell™, etc.), and sometimes technical qualities (Coolmax®
polyester for a moisture wicking fabric,
or Thermocool® which helps to
regulate the temperature).
90
EUROJERSEY’S NEW ECOLOGICAL CAMPAIGN
The Italian industrialist, involved in the eco-friendly production process since 2008, strongly
reinforce their commitment through a new campaign. They show us that as well as respecting
the environment, they also work passionately with their fabrics. Divided into two visuals, this
campaign was launched digitally in February and will be transmitted throughout 2014.
EUROPEAN
SOURCING
JABOULEY
JUNIOR HAGEN
CARVICO
KARL
FLEISCHMANN
SERAM
ROCLE BY ISABELLA
RICAMIFICIO PAOLO
CHANTY
WEBER LACE
VIOLET
91
EUROPEAN
SOURCING
PIAVE MAITEX
GOLD
KARL
FLEISCHMANN
LIEBAERT
CODENTEL
92
EUROPEAN
SOURCING
SOLSTISS
JUNIOR HAGEN
PENN TEXTILE
WEBER LACE
BISCHOFF
93
EUROPEAN
SOURCING
BISCHOFF
KARL
FLEISCHMANN
PASTEL
PENN TEXTILE
ROCLE BY
ISABELLA
SOPHIE
HALLETTE
94
INPLET
WEBER LACE
EUROPEAN
SOURCING
PIAVE MAITEX
RICAMIFICIO
PAOLO
LIEBAERT
MUEHLMEIER
SERAM
FIT
95

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