Bolt On Mods

Transcription

Bolt On Mods

Bolt-Ons You Can Do!
Page 1 of 24
Powered by
Installing A Shifter, Headers, Chassis Stiffening
Devices, Induction Systems, Springs And
Shocks, And Rear Control Arms
By The 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Staff
Photography: The 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Staff
The 5.0 Mustang world is awash in bolt-on parts
that can transform the mild-mannered Clark Kent
pony into a superhero–like, wheel-hangin’ ‘Stang
banger. Most of these parts can be installed in
the comfort of your own driveway (or even
carport for you apartment dwellers), and can be
accomplished by even those with less-thanstellar mechanical abilities. Your grandmother
could install a shifter, for cryin’ out loud!
In this plus-sized section, we outline the most
popular bolt-ons—showing how to install them,
as well as providing information on all the
choices in the various parts. In this section, we’ll
cover shifters, headers, chassis stiffening
devices, induction systems, springs and shocks,
and rear control arms. All of these are easy boltons that can be accomplished without draining
any fluids or disassembling any major parts of
the drivetrain. That means that what we show
here won’t require you to “break the seal” on
your car and deal with the possibility of screwing
up something so badly that the car won’t run
anymore. That’s a nightmare no one wants.
If you’ve never attempted to modify your
Mustang yourself, hopefully this section will
entice you to do so. Once you start, you’ll never
stop. And that’s a good thing. So click on the
sidebar links below to check it out.
http://www.printthis.clickability.com/pt/cpt?action=cpt&title=Bolt-Ons+You+Can+Do%2... 6/12/2005
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Installing A Shifter
Installing a shifter is one of the easiest
modifications you can make to your five-speed
Mustang, and it’s also one that rewards you with
immediate results. Every time you drive the car,
your hand is working the shifter, and all the
aftermarket shifters are so much better than the
stock stick that the difference is really
pronounced. And the benefits are more than just
feel; aftermarket shifters allow far fewer missed
shifts, a common occurrence with the sloppy
stock shifter (we always miss Third gear). If
you’re hitting all the gears on the first try, you’re
gonna be quicker. As for prices, they’re all in the
same ballpark, so it depends on where you shop.
The first step is to unscrew the shift
knob and then pop off the console
cover plate.
The easiest way to get at the shifter is
by removing the console, but that
brings other difficulties, so we’re gonna
show you how to do it without going to
that effort. The forward screws for the
shift boot can be accessed by cutting
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(or using a Dremel tool, as we did)
notches in the console as shown.
The cover plate hides the butchery, so
nobody will ever know.
After removing the four screws, the
boot comes out. It’s tight, but we got it
out from under the console.
Remove the four bolts holding the
stock shifter to the trans, then remove
the shifter. The only things to watch
when installing the Pro 5.0 unit are that
you use new silicone at the mounting
point and that the shift ball engages in
the internal linkage. It’s obvious when
it doesn’t. A little grease on the ball is a
good idea, too. We used a dab from
the grease packed in the shifter
housing.
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The Pro 5.0 stick installs with two
Allen-head bolts, on the driver-side of
the stick.
To adjust the stops, pull the shifter into
Second gear and hold it there, then
thread in the stop bolt until it touches
the stick. Then, unscrew it one full turn
and lock it down with the nut. Do the
same with the front stop, holding it in
Third gear.
The shift boot must be cut as shown to
clear the Pro 5.0.
Put everything back the way it was
before, screw the knob back on, and
you’re ready to go bang some shifts.
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Brand we used: Pro 5.0
Street cost: $174
Installation time: one to two hours
Tools needed: ratchets, metric
sockets, an Allen wrench (for shift
handle bolts), and dykes or a
grinder.
Shifter Sources
B&M Racing and Performance
Products. 9142 Independence Ave.,
Chatsworth, CA 91311, (818) 8826422, http://bmracing.com
Steeda, 1-351 NW Steeda Way,
Pompano Beach, FL 33069, (954)
960-0774, http://www.steeda.com
Hurst/Mr. Gasket, 8700 Brookpark
Rd., Cleveland, OH 44129, (216)
398-8300, http://mrgasket.com
Rear Control Arms
Stock control arms are nothing more than flat
steel formed into a U-channel, and use rubber
bushings for vibration resistance and a better
ride. When you put any kind of power to them,
the non-rigid factory arms twist and flex, and the
rubber bushings distort—none of which is
effective for securely planting the rear end to the
ground. The aftermarket has really come to the
rescue with much stiffer control arms that usually
use urethane bushings to remove most of the
flex. That means all your engine’s horsepower
Disconnect all four rear shocks. Then
remove the bolts holding the upper
control arms to the chassis and
rearend.
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gets to the wheels, not soaked up trying to twist
the control arms into pretzels. The best time to
install control arms is when you’re also doing
springs and shocks, but the arms can be
installed by themselves in an affordable,
piecemeal approach.
HPM’s arms come without the
bushings installed, so we had to pound
them in. Lube them well to make
installation easier and reduce squeaks
when it’s all together.
The upper bushings need to be
hammered into the rearend housing.
Lots of lube helps here. Once the
bushing is in, the arm drops into place.
On the ’86 Mustang used here, we had
a clearance problem that HPM says is
rare. We had to radius the control arm
brackets to clear a cast-in ear.
This car was on a rack, so we used a
pole jack to put pressure on the
suspension while we removed the
lower control arm mounting bolts. Then
we slowly lowered the jack until the
spring was free, and removed it to
replace the arm.
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This bracket bolts where the stock
shock originally did, and locates the
HPM arm lower than stock.
A few good blows with a hammer will
coerce the HPM arm into the bracket.
Brand we used: HP Motorsports
Installation time: four to six hours,
on average
Tools needed: a jack, a jackstand,
common wrenches, a
socket/ratchet set, and a hammer
Rear Control Arm Source
HP Motorsports, 5525 L Street,
Omaha, NE 68117, (402) 731-7301
Short-Tube Headers
Replacing your stock headers is a sure-fire way
to increase the horsepower of your stock, or
near-stock, 5.0. And looking at the factory pipes
immediately tells you why a set of free-flowing
headers helps uncork your exhaust—Ford puts
dings all over these things! More air into the
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engine makes power, but it’s gotta get out, too.
The factory exhaust does a pretty decent job of
this, but Ford also had to worry about ease of
installation on the assembly line, emissions,
long-term reliability, and warranty concerns.
If you’re going to take the plunge and purchase a
set of headers, the options and variety will make
your head spin. There are many different types
of headers, but they can easily be separated into
3 types: short-tube, equal-length, and long-tube.
Long-tube headers (also known as full-lengths)
are for a more serious enthusiast, but they can
make more power. Short-tube headers are
usually constructed of four unequal-length tubes
that are mandrel bent (no dents or crimps) and
flow smoothly into a large collector.
Equal-length short-tube headers are similar in
design to a standard short-tube, but all four
tubes are the same length. Because there is not
much room to achieve equal-lengths in such a
small area, these headers have been given the
name “spaghetti tubes” by many mechanics.
There are some installation concerns and sparkplug–wire problems, because of such a snake of
tubes. However, some dyno tests have shown
that having equal-length tubes increases
horsepower because of the improved
scavenging they offer.
Headers are probably the most popular
modifications for a 5.0 Mustang, and
for a good reason—horsepower! A
well-chosen set of short-tube headers
in place of the crimped factory tubes is
dyno-proven to be worth at least 10 hp.
Removing the mass air boot is the first
step toward removing the passengerside headers. If this frustrates you,
stop now, because you haven’t even
gotten to all the smog hardware.
Look at all the stuff that’s in the way!
The beginner will most certainly get his
share of busted knuckles.
Be sure to remove all the bolts from
the factory-crimped headers. They can
get a little tight, though, so use plenty
of penetrating oil to loosen up the rust.
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This is why aftermarket headers are so
popular. These crimps were put into
the stock 5.0 headers for assembly line
reasons, Ford engineers knew these
things were horrible for performance.
Brand we used: BBK
Street cost: $159.95
Installation time: two hours
Tools needed: ratchets, sockets, a
screwdriver, a gasket scraper, a lift
or jackstands, and penetrating oil
(like WD-40)
Here, we compare BBK’s short-tube
header (compared to stock) with their
equal-length header. (1-5/8-inch shorttube headers, 1-5/8-inch equal-length
headers) BBK Performance, Inc., 1611
Railroad St., Corona, CA 91720; (909)
735-8882; http://www.bbk1.com
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Edelbrock’s equal-length short-tube
headers are shown here. (15/8-inch
equal-length short-tube). Edelbrock,
Dept. 5.0, 2700 California St,
Torrance, CA 90503; (310) 781-2222
Bassani’s equal-length short-tube
headers come complete with gaskets
and hardware. Bassani, Dept. 5.0,
2900 E. La Jolla, Anaheim, CA, 92806;
(714) 630-1821
Hedmans’ equal-length short-tubes
sell for $162.95, but for a little more,
they also offer the HyperPlus
Hedder Kit which includes a
voucher for a Hypertech computer
chip custom-programmed for your
combination. (1-5/8-inch equallength headers, and 1-5/8-inch
short-tube headers).
Header Sources
Hedman Hedders, Dept. 5.0, 16410
Manning Way, Cerritos, CA 90703;
(562) 921-0404
Page 11 of 24
Hooker Industries, 1024 W. Brooks
St., Ontario, CA 91762-3604, (909)
983-5871
Flowtech, The Performance
Exhaust Company, 2605 W. First
St., Tempe, AZ 85281, (602) 9661511, http://www.flowtech.com
Ford Motorsport SVO, 14555
Rotunda Dr., Ste 131, Dearborn, MI
48120-1273, (313) 845-2274
Subframe Connectors
We’ve said it millions of times: the stock Mustang
chassis sucks from a rigidity standpoint. The
unibody construction (which uses the floorpan as
the center part of the frame) allows the car to flex
all over the place. This prevents the suspension
from working to its full potential, and just feels
bad. Subframe connectors essentially create a
full-frame design, and eliminate a lot of the twist.
If you’ve ever driven, back to back, a stock
Mustang and one with subframe connectors, you
know the difference that even the most
inexpensive subframe connectors make to the
car.
Kenny Brown’s basic subframe
Subframe connectors are not difficult to install,
but for best results they should be welded in at
the attaching points on the stock subframes.
Most brands of connectors allow you to bolt them
on, then drive the car to a welding shop where
they can finish the job for you. Below, we show
how the typical subframe connector is installed.
We’ve used Kenny Brown’s Double Cross Super
Subs, and have given some details on the
Extreme Subs as well.
connectors are the Super Subs, which
tie the front and rear subframes
together, and also tie into the floorpan
at the seatbelt bolts.
Here is the Extreme Matrix brace
(diagonal pieces) installed along with
the Super Sub. The standard
connector bolts to the stock seat belt
bolts, as shown.
Bolt-in subframe connectors are better
than nothing but, to really get
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maximum stiffness, they should be
welded in.
Many people forget the last step, which
is to squirt some paint or primer on the
welded areas. Otherwise, rust will
form, and nobody wants that.
Brand we used: Kenny Brown’s
Extreme Subframe System
Street cost: $99 ($297 for Extrems
Subs)
Installation time: two hours
Tools needed: common hand tools,
a hammer, a welder, and paint
Kenny Brown Performance, Dept.
5.0, 57 D Gasoline Alley,
Indianapolis, IN 46222; (317) 2475320.
Page 13 of 24
Steeda’s Cross Brace connectors.
Also available are standard
connectors without the cross brace.
Steeda, Dept. 5.0, 1-351 NW
Steeda Way, Pompano Beach, FL
33069; (954) 960-0774;
http://www.steeda.com
HP’s weld-in connectors.
HPM Performance Products, Dept.
5.0, 5055 So. 36th St., Omaha, NE
68107; (402) 731-7301
Ford SVO has several different
subframe connectors.
Ford SVO, Dept. 5.0, 14555
Rotunda Dr., Suite 131, Dearborn,
MI 48120-1273; (313) 845-3558
Dugan also has connectors for the
other Fox-body Mustangs.
Dugan Racing, Dept. 5.0, 1175
Hwy. 23, Suite 101, Suwanee, GA
30174; (770) 932-5480
Page 14 of 24
Ram-Air Kits
Elsewhere in this “Brutally Basic Bolt-Ons”
segment, we’ve covered installing a higherflowing throttle body and EGR spacer to try and
get more air into the engine, but in order for that
air to get to the throttle body, it must enter the air
filter. A stock 5.0 or 4.6 Mustang has an air
snorkel which directs air from inside the fender
into the air filter and housing.
Unfortunately, this air snorkel also serves as an
air silencer to eliminate the noise of sucking air
into that big V-8. In this case, the term air
silencer can also be renamed big restriction—so
most enthusiasts remove it. A ram-air kit, also
referred to as a cold-air induction kit, is a better
idea. It directs cool, clean air from underneath
the bumper through the fender and into the
induction track.
Most ram-air kits also include a low-restriction air
filter and a closed air box to ensure that the cold
air doesn’t instead go into the engine
compartment. Note also that there is an
additional benefit in installing a ram-air kit—that
is, the “ram” effect. Although it may be small, at
high speed, air that is rushing past the vehicle
can help provide a positive pressure increase (or
at the very least, decreased inlet-side restriction)
into the inlet tract—giving your ’Stang a few
more oats.
Kenne-Bell makes a great modular
ram-air kit which is an easy bolt-on.
Notice how the closed-design air box
won’t let hot engine air contaminate
the intake tract.
Most ram-air kits include a high-flow air
filter.
In the Kenne Bell kit it’s easier to feed
the ram-air hose into the fender from
underneath, rather than from the
engine compartment side. The hose is
not only flexible, but also crushable, so
route it carefully during installation.
Drilling the scoop is easy if you have a
steady hand. Bolting it to the underfender area makes a secure mounting.
Page 15 of 24
The last step in the ram-air install is
fitting the ram scoop from below the
car and affixing the flexible hose. Cold
air here we come!
Brand we used: Kenne Bell
Installation time: 30 minutes to an
hour
Tools needed: screwdrivers, a drill,
and ratchets/sockets
Kenne Bell, Inc. (Ram-Air), 10743
Bell Ct., Rancho Cucamonga, CA
91730; (909) 941-6646
Hypertech’s ram-air kit.
Hypertech, Inc., 1910 Thomas Rd.,
Memphis, TN 38134; (901) 3735290; http://www.hypertech-inc.com
Page 16 of 24
Dugan Racing’s ram-air kit.
Dugan Racing, 1175 Hwy. 23, Suite
101, Suwanee, GA 30174; (770)
932-5480
Dugan also has this monster 12inch conical filter and a shield that
mounts directly to the mass-air
sensor.
Other Ram-Air Sources
March Performance (Ram-Air - ‘86’93 5.0; ‘94-’95 5.0 ; ‘96-’98 4.6),
5820 Hix Rd., Westland, MI 48185;
(313) 729-9070
Moroso Performance Products, Inc.
(Cold Air), 80 Carter Dr., Guilford,
CT 06437; (203) 453-6571;
http://moroso.com
Anderson Ford Motorsports (Power
Pipe, naturally aspirated), Rt. 10
West, Clinton, IL 61727; (217) 9352384
BBK Performance, Inc., 1611
Railroad Street, Cronoa, CA 91720;
(909) 735-8882;
http://www.bbk1.com
Page 17 of 24
Throttle Bodies
More air into the engine means that it’ll make
more power. That’s the basic premise behind
nearly every modification we make to our cars.
One of the easiest ways to increase the
breathing ability is to remove any air restrictions
on the inlet side of the cylinder heads. On a fullthrottle stomp, that air must pass through the air
cleaner snorkel, the air cleaner, the mass air
sensor, the air inlet tube, the throttle body, and
the EGR spacer before it enters the intake
manifold. In the quest for more power,
enthusiasts usually install a low-restriction air
filter, add a ram air kit to scoop up cold air, and
remove the air cleaner silencer. The next step to
open up the inlet track is to install a larger
throttle body, EGR spacer, and mass air sensor.
Follow along as we show you how to do a
throttle body swap on an ’87-to-’93 5.0L, and
provide you with a handy-dandy guide to all the
available throttle bodies in the land, including 4.6
and ’94-to-’95 pieces. Until Holley releases their
new part, BBK and Accufab are the only games
in town for throttle bodies.
Removing the 5.0’s stock throttle body
has been the first step towards Pro 5.0
for many of today’s fastest racers.
The arrow shows the EGR spacer.
Port-matching your intake manifold to
your EGR opening is a smart idea if
you want to take the time. Stuff a rag
into the upper manifold and start
grinding, but be very careful not to get
metal shavings in the wrong places.
You’ll have to swap the idle air bypass
from the stock throttle body to the
BBK.
Install the air boot, reset the throttleposition sensor to .99 volts, and get
ready to rumble.
Page 18 of 24
Brand we used: BBK
Installation time: 30 minutes to an
hour
Tools needed: ratchets, sockets, a
screwdriver, and a gasket scraper
BBK Performance, Inc. (65mm
tb+egr; 70mm tb+egr; 75mm
tb+egr; 65mm tb, ’94-to-’95 GT;
70mm tb, ’94-to-’95 GT; 75mm tb,
’94-to-’95 GT; 4.6 2.V 70mm; 4.6
4.V Twin 62mm), 1611 Railroad St.,
Corona, CA 91720; (909) 735-8882;
http://www.bbk1.com
Other Throttle-Body Sources
Accufab (65mm tb+egr; 70mm
tb+egr; 75mm tb+egr), 1514 B E.
Francis Street, Ontario, CA 91761;
(909) 930-1751
Holley Performance Products, 1801
Russellville Rd., Bowling Green, KY
42101; (502) 782-2900;
http://www.holley.com
Springs & Shocks
The vast majority of Mustang owners install
springs for the sole purpose of lowering their car
to make it look better, but a few do it for the
handling improvements that go along with a
lower center of gravity and a stiffer spring. And if
you’re more interested in drag racing than
turning corners, there are some drag-race–
specific spring packages (most notable is the
Drag Launch kit from Eibach) that enhance
weight transfer and dragstrip launches.
Here’s before...
As for shocks and struts, aftermarket shocks
offer much more refined damping characteristics
than the mass-produced factory Ford shocks,
Page 19 of 24
and the adjustable units allow fine tuning for a
variety of situations or ride preferences. Installing
springs and shocks isn’t that difficult, but it’s not
as easy as a shifter installation, and it requires
bigger tools. An impact wrench (and
corresponding air compressor) is very helpful,
but not mandatory—just expect to work harder
without one. On older cars, it’s also a good idea
to soak everything with WD-40 an hour before
working on it to help it come apart more easily.
...and after the Eibach and Tokicos—a
And whatever you do, don’t trust a floor jack to
definite difference in attitude, and it’ll
hold the car up. Use jackstands!
handle better, too.
At the front, start the process by
loosening the upper strut mount. This
requires loosening the big nut while
keeping the shaft from turning. This
requires removing the shaft cover boot
(inside the wheelwell).
To allow the control arm to drop far
enough to remove the spring, the sway
bar and tie-rod end must be separated
from the spindle. Sometimes you can
get the tie-rod end loose by smacking
the side of the spindle hole (not the top
of the tie-rod end) with a hammer while
pushing down on the tie-rod. It usually
doesn’t work, though, so chances are
you’ll need a separator tool like this
one, which can be rented from better
parts stores. You’ll also need to
remove the caliper and wire it up out of
the way. Don’t disconnect the brake
line, though.
Page 20 of 24
Once the top of the strut is loose,
remove the bolts and nuts at the
spindle. This photo was shot while the
Eibach technician was loosening the
bolts but, when you do it...
...make sure to support the control arm
with a floor jack because when the
bolts come out, the spring will force the
arm down, and the spring might come
out and kill you—or at least make it
impossible for you to reproduce.
Installation is the exact opposite of
removal.
The rear springs and shocks aren’t
quite as tough. First, remove the
swaybar and shocks (and disconnect
the quad shocks where they bolt to the
rearend), then allow the rearend to
drop enough to free up the spring. You
might have to use a pry bar to work the
spring loose, but it’ll come out. The
new, shorter spring should pop in
easily. Lift the rearend back up, install
the Tokico shocks, and reattach the
quad shocks, and you’re done.
Page 21 of 24
Make sure you put the stock rubber
cushions on the new springs, or you’ll
get more noise and harshness than is
necessary.
With a lower ride height, many times
the stock pinion snubber/bump stop
needs to be changed to allow more
suspension travel.
Brand we used: Eibach springs,
Tokico shocks & struts
Street cost: $229 for springs, $549
for shocks ($349 nonadjustable)
Installation time: four to six hours,
on average
Tools needed: a floor jack,
jackstands, common wrenches, and
a ratchet/socket set (an impact
wrench is handy, but not
necessary), a tie rod separator
(likely), and WD-40.
Eibach Springs, Dept. 5.0, 17817
Gillette Ave., Irvine, CA 92614;
(949) 752-6700;
http://www.eibach.com
Page 22 of 24
Jamex, Inc., 4975 Energy Way,
Reno, NV 89502; (702) 857-4888;
http://www.jamex.com
Performance Suspension
Technology, P.O. Box 396,
Montville, NJ 07045; (800) 2472288
Page 23 of 24
Moroso Performance, 80 Carter Dr.,
Guilford, CT 06437-0570; (203)
453-6571; http://www.moroso.com
Other Spring Sources
Performance Suspension
Components, Dept. 5.0, P.O. Box
14706, Phoenix, AZ 85063; (602)
272-4085
Ford Motorsport SVO, Dept. 5.0,
14555 Rotunda Dr., Suite 131,
Dearborn, MI 48120-1273; (313)
845-5108
Saleen, Dept. 5.0, 9 Whatney,
Irvine, CA 92618; (800) 888-8945;
http://www.saleen.com
Gearbox Grannie’s, Dept. 5.0 ,
5161 Wolfpen-Pleasant Hill Rd.,
Milford, OH 45150;
Bilstein, 8845 Rehco Rd., San
Diego, CA 92121; (619) 453-7723;
http://www.bilstein.com
KYB, 901 Oak Creek Dr., Lombard,
IL 60148; (630) 620-8133
Page 24 of 24
Koni North America, 1961-A
International Way, Hebron, KY
41048; (800) 994-KONI;
http://www.koni.com
Find this article at:
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/howto/24498/index.html
Check the box to include the list of links referenced in the article.

Bolt On Mods

Transcription

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