Lucire August 2004

Gabriel
Scarvelli
One designer can
change the world
august 2004
American
idol
The true idol look
A light exists in
spring
Bronzing
The gap
Regardless of the
between seasons
season
The circuit
Cocktails
Hot o\ the
catwalks at
Sydney, Toronto,
Los Angeles, Miami
Hilary
in London
The trendiest
bars in town
Permanent
Rowland
make-up
businesswoman
dangers
Model
We expose the
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ISSN 1175-7515
juicy style
08
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9 771175 575100
McCANN9195-R
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Laetitia Casta wears Glam Shine No 38 Gold Holographic
lu c ir e au gust 2004
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lu c ir e au gust 2004
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OFFICIAL MEDIA PARTNER
august 2004
36 |
You only live twice
An interview with Gabriel Scarvelli, proof
that one designer can make a difference
by Carolyn Enting
Photographed by the author and Clive Souness
56 |
Make-up’s pros and
consumers
Workshops, seminars and Oscar-winning make-up talent show off
by Stevie Wilson
Photographed by Deverill Weekes
58 |
Business model
Hilary Rowland, model and web publishing pioneer by Jack Yan
Photographed by Arash Moallemi
62 |
American idol
Idols are made through star power and
classic style Photographed by Amanda Dorcil
68 |
A light exists in spring
In that gap between winter and spring
where designers embrace nature’s colours Photographed by Marcus Weight/Pixel
76 |
Glow
The jewel returns in the form of embroidery, sequins and embossing
Photographed by Stratton Heron
82 |
Twilight
The games begin for evening
Photographed by Antony Nobilo
88 |
London’s cool libation
scene
The trendiest cocktail bars in London by
Pameladevi Govinda
6
au couverture: Pearl
black satin stitched evening
duffle coat, photographed
by Stratton Heron, assisted
and styled by Amanda Dorcil,
make-up by Katie/Vada, hair
by Leonie Ferguson/Vada
and modelled by Chezvan/62
Models. See p. 76. above:
Fleur Gaskin/Nova Models in
Trelise Cooper, photographed
by Marcus Weight, assisted by
Melissa Collow, make-up by
Chérie Stevens, hair by Wendy
Henderson, airbrush tanning by
Nicola Brockie. See p. 68.
lu c ir e au gust 2004
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august 2004
Fashion
Beauty
16 | It Doesn’t Matter
Where You Are Trends transcend borders by Jack Yan
42 | Way to Go Beauty editor’s
notebook by Stevie Wilson
18 | Trends This month: prints,
classical, retro and juicy colours
by Greer Hughes
24 | Colour My World A
rapid guide on accomplishing this
month’s colourful style by Stevie
44 | Brownie Points Achieving a healthy glow with uv rays
96 | The Scene The Met’s
Costume Institute Gala; Rock in
Rio, Lisboa; Anna K. goes sailing;
Matthew Williamson opens flagship store; where to make a scene
by Nicola Brockie
by Phillip D. Johnson and Jack Yan
Photographed by Jason Hurdle
48 | Brow-zing Up close and
personal with brow expert Robert
Bolaños
99 | Flirting and Flaunting Jupiter’s last hurrah in Virgo
means sexier style—for now
by Susan Kelly
Wilson, Nicola Brockie and Jack Yan
30 | Not the Way of All
Flesh Enough designers stayed
away from mere flesh at Mercedes
Australian Fashion Week
by Carolyn Enting
Photographed by Alex Zotos
50 | Hair Rescue 411 It’s time
to revitalize your hair
by Nicola Brockie and Stevie Wilson
Photographed by Joma García i Gisbert
58 | Shaving off Time For
men: pre-shaving treatments
100 | Permanent Make-up
Tattoos: Taboo or Timesaver? One reader’s horror reacting to pigments used in permanent make-up by Nancy Erfan
101 | On the Web
by Stevie Wilson
32 | The Real California Los
Angeles Fashion Week becomes
established by Jack Yan
Regular sections
Volante
Photographed by David Lee
34 | Canadian Chic From Missoni to clothes in chocolate
86 | Sail of the Century
Cruising season begins by Jack Yan
13 | Letter from the Editor-in-chief by Nicola Brockie
105 | Market-place
by Phillip D. Johnson
Photographed by Cheryl Gorski
Living
36 | The Global Fashion
Show From all over the world
they came to Miami
92 | Life/Style Swatch pays
tribute to Helmut Newton; 2005
Ford Mustang by Jack Yan
106 | Report from the Real
World Happenings with our
readers at Lucire StyleTalk
by Phillip D. Johnson
Photographed by Richard Spiegel
92
96
RICHARD SPIEGEL; FORD MOTOR COMPANY; AGENCIA ZERO
36
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lu c ir e au gust 2004
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http://lucire.com
Nicola Brockie
Editor-in-chief
Stevie Wilson
Beauty Editor
Simone Knol
Editor-in-chief, web edition
Devin Colvin
Entertainment Editor
Richard Spiegel
New York Editor
Wendy Henderson
Style Editor
Phillip D. Johnson
Features’ Editor
Susan Kelly
Montréal Editor
Catherine Rigod
San Francisco Editor
Alice Goulter
Senior Correspondent, Melbourne
M. K. Johnson
Director of Beauty—Special Projects
Kathryn O’Sullivan
Associate Fashion Editor
Correspondents
Donna Borak (Boston)
Edward Hodges (Wellington)
Corky Davidov (Special Correspondent,
Annette Holt-Siketa (Melbourne)
Washington, dc and New York)
Kelly Huang (Chicago)
Carolyn Enting (Wellington, Sydney)
Greer Hughes (Wellington)
Jennifer Fader (Los Angeles)
Meredyth J. Lewis (London)
Hedley Galt (Sydney)
Sally-ann Mo\at (Wellington)
Pameladevi Govinda (Travel)
Clare Marshall (Melbourne)
Debi Hall (London)
Tiago E. Santo (Lisboa)
Amanda Dorcil
Chief Photographer
Stylists and make-up
Chérie Stevens
Wendy Henderson
Laura Ming-Wong/Sweet Chilli
Photographers
Marcus Weight/Pixel
David Lee Jason Hurdle
Briar Shaw
Karl Priston
Joma García i Gisbert
Cheryl Gorski Jon Moe
Antony Nobilo
Frédéric de la Chapelle
Rui Vasco Michael Ng
Laura Ming-Wong
Assistant Art Director
Lucire tv
Jason Moon
Producer and Director, New Zealand
Edward Uken
Editor and Director, California
Management Team
Jack Yan
Founding Publisher
Lisa Tardrew
Director of Advertising
Ann Fryer
Associate Publisher
David Patin
Adviser, Paris
Nigel Dunn
Senior Partner, Web Development,
jy&a Media
Amanda Dolheguy
Director, Delineate Ltd.
Photographic scanning (Auckland)
PMP Digital, Parnell
Wayne Chipperfield
Telephone 64 9 979-2514
Photographic scanning (Wellington) David Philpott and DAC
Printing, New Zealand edition Format
Xerox DocuColor digital printing WCC and Wakefield Digital
Distribution, New Zealand edition
IMD
Kerry Sutcli\e
10
lu c ir e au gust 2004
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Editorial Offices
Sta\ can be contacted at {[email protected] in the {rst instance.
Head bureau
po Box 14-368, 13 Mamari Street, Wellington 6041, New Zealand
Telephone and fax 64 4 387-3213
Print edition web site http://lucire.net
Email [email protected]
UK
Miss Simone Knol, Editor-in-chief (web), Lucire
Suite 85, 34 Buckingham Palace Road, Belgravia, London sw1w 0rh, England
Telephone 44 7876 701-505
New York, New York
Miss Ann Fryer, Associate Publisher, Lucire
244 Fifth Avenue, Suite a-248,
New York, ny 10001
Telephone 1 212 591-0800
Fax 1 212 591-6836
Long Beach, California
Ms Stevie Wilson, Beauty Editor, Lucire
kbp, Inc., 6195 Seaside Walk,
Long Beach, ca 90803
Telephone 1 562 434-2817
Fax 1 562 434-0218
Tucson, Arizona
Mr Devin Colvin, Entertainment Editor,
Lucire
1050 N. Rancho del Jefe, #1
Tucson, az 85748
Telephone 1 520 245-9191
Fax 1 309 439-9231
Auckland, New Zealand
Ms Amanda Dorcil, Chief Photographer,
Lucire
Suite 7b, 14 Emily Place
Auckland
Telephone 64 9 373-7876
Cellphone 64 27 257-3996
Montréal, Québec
Ms Susan Kelly, Montréal Editor, Lucire
688 Querbes Avenue
Montréal, qc h2v 3w7
Telephone 1 514 270-8621
Fax 1 514 879-8914
Christchurch, New Zealand
Miss Amanda Dolheguy, Director,
Delineate Ltd.
po Box 3262
Level 2, Scales House
254 Montréal Street
Christchurch
Telephone 64 3 353-4573
Cellphone 64 21 438-645
Email [email protected]
Melbourne, Victoria
Ms Alice Goulter and Ms Clare Marshall, Lucire
2/434 Smith Street
Collingwood, vic 3066
Telephone 61 404 257-367
Sydney, New South Wales
Ms Hedley Galt, 2/95 O’Sullivan Road, Rose Bay, nsw 2029
Telephone 61 414 646-000
Advertising Bureau
Ms Lisa Tardrew, Director of Advertising, Lucire
po Box 47-287, Ponsonby, Auckland 1034, New Zealand
Telephone 64 21 4-lucire
Fax 64 4 387-3213
Acknowledgements
62 Models Nova Models United Travel Kilbirnie
Ford Motor Company of New Zealand
Lucire targets Carbon Neutral production. Some profits from this magazine
are given to Future Forests to attempt to neutralize the amount of carbon dioxide
generated during production. For more information, visit www.futureforests.com.
Lucire is the United Nations Environment Programme’s
first fashion industry partner.
See www.unep.org for more information.
OFFICIAL MEDIA PARTNER
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Published in New Zealand by Lucire LLC. Colophon: Composed in Lucire Light 9·5/11·5 pt,
designed by Jack Yan. Produced by JY&A Fonts. Introductions in Proforma, designed by Petr van
Blokland. House style: Hart’s Rules for Compositors and Readers, published by Oxford University Press.
This publication has been proofread by humans, not spellchecked. Lucire is a registered trademark
of Jack Yan & Associates. Copyright ©2004 by Jack Yan & Associates and Lucire LLC. All rights
reserved. Visit jya.net for information on your nearest JY&A o|ce in any one of a dozen countries.
Visit lucire.net for licensing information.
July 15, 2004. First print edition (November 2004) scheduled for October 4, 2004. E&OE.
lu c ir e au gust 2004
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
W
e listened. For the last two
months, we received a lot of feedback about our May 2004 prototype,
which we placed online for public
viewing. In the next 100 pages or so,
we’ve incorporated almost all of the
feedback: almost all your concerns
about everything between the covers—and the cover
itself—have been met.
There were a lot of reasons for this. No magazine is
perfect on its first issue, but what if the first to launch in
print was really our third? We’d overcome those objections
faced by start-up magazines (although after seven years of
publishing, albeit in another medium, you couldn’t call us
‘start-up’) about their editorial flavour not being established,
or those who wanted to see the magazine “evolve”.
Secondly, why shouldn’t we deliver a magazine that was “real”, meeting
the requirements of our readers?
When we showed our prototype for the first time in May to a select group
of people, we met a lot of surprise. After seven years online, it still seems
a mind-boggling enterprise, as we read about ourselves in the press. In
many respects, everyone from the nzpa to WWD is right: we’ve had to go
from a single-medium existence to a cross-media one. We’ve had to make
sure the Lucire principle—global style for a well travelled girl (wtg)—could
translate into print. And I’ve gained a lot in helming these first issues.
But what is Lucire all about? For too long, we believe that magazines
have treated people as disjointed groups, when in fact, most people believe
they are part of a single planet. With our roots in the heady days of online
publishing—a story paralleled by that of our feature subject, Canadian web
pioneer and model Hilary Rowland—we see the world as one. Women
aren’t suburbia-trapped and locked in with fashion magazines being our
only outlet into Remuera or Monte-Carlo. Women have power, strength
and the ability to transcend borders whenever we want. And, as we have
always shown readers over the last seven years, style is not seasonal:
what’s in the Zeitgeist in Paris somehow wafts over to Sydney, more so in
this email-connected world than ever.
We enter a world where there titles that proclaim that they have style
when in fact they are provincial and narrow-minded; titles that proclaim un-
JACK YAN
Nicola Brockie is editor-in-chief of Lucire.
derstanding when their editors never see a single message
from their readers. They, living proof that Patsy and Eddie do
not reside in fiction alone, are the leftovers of the twentieth
century. Ever since 1997, we’ve lived in the twenty-first.
We’re present on our online reader forums and we—the
editors, not a secretary—read every email that arrives.
Therefore, your ideas drove our expanded beauty section;
your ideas that see this issue’s ‘Trends’ pages, written by
Greer Hughes. Amanda Dorcil, whose ‘Land Girls’ in the
last issue was the most talked-about feature, returns for two
superb shoots, complementing the stunning photography
of Marcus Weight of Pixel. Lucire reader Nancy Erfan contributed her experiences with permanent make-up tattoos,
with an exposé that the mainstream American media were
too afraid of running (as we ran ours, the us Food and
Drug Administration named the company that we revealed).
We’ve stayed true to the things you loved: our article in association with
unep, this time on Gabriel Scarvelli, written by Carolyn Enting; continuing
our male grooming section with Stevie Wilson; ‘Volante’, this time featuring London’s coolest cocktail bars, with Pameladevi Govinda; and our
‘Life/Style’ and ‘The Scene’ pages with more of what’s cool within and on
the periphery of fashion.
The talents of Stevie Wilson, Phillip Johnson, Wendy Henderson, Richard Spiegel, Devin Colvin, Cheryl Gorski, Cathy Rigod, our publisher Jack
Yan, and vitally our Director of Advertising, Lisa Tardrew, plus many more
at Lucire, have all made this issue one of our best efforts—and, believe us,
we’re going to top it again in a couple of months.
Next issue, on sale
October 4, 2004
On October 4, we launch Lucire as a monthly
• Our people: CNN’s
print magazine in New Zealand. It makes sense: we
Soledad O’Brien
began there, we are headquartered there and, since
• David Shields
• San Francisco Fashion we are part of a global society, we should begin our
Week designers
next international journey from one of the most “in”
profiled
countries on the planet. To our many international
• The global fashion
readers, we’ll see you on your newsstands in ’05.
shopper
• Olympus New York
Unless, of course, you’re flying here for a taste of
Fashion Week and
the antipodean spring and summer. We look forward
ANZFW preview
to meeting our fellow wtgs.
• Ten ways to sneak in
to a fashion show
• Volante: the Maldives
NZ$9·45 retail price
+$4·50 advertising
−$4·06 distribution
−$3·55 printing
−$2·59 salaries
−$2·25 promotion
−$0·25 auditing
−$0·10 Future Forests
Profit: NZ$1·90 to shareholders, investment for
future issues, travel,
management.
Prospective contents are subject to change without public notice.
http://lucire.com
13
THIS MONTH CONTRIBUTORS
We still don’t know how Stevie Wilson manages to juggle
fine-tuning this magazine’s beauty contributions, interviews,
chasing up photographers and still have time to brainstorm
with the editorial team, but we’re grateful that she owns a
time machine that slows down the seconds in each day.
Either that or her fitness regimen and tennis-playing have
her body working more efficiently than everyone else’s.
Holding an ma, Stevie has written for Lucire since 2000
and was promoted to beauty editor in 2002. Based in Long Beach, Calif.
and trusted for her first-hand knowledge, Stevie contributes to numerous international and national titles as a beauty writer. Her expertise has
extended on numerous occasions into personal shopping assignments
for clients and coordinating fashion events. She lives with her husband
and daughter.
Richard Spiegel is New York editor of Lucire and has been instrumental
in getting the magazine’s new-season coverage there into its current form.
Based in Manhattan, his connection with the magazine goes
back to mid-1998, when he worked on the ‘It’s What We Wear’
series of street fashion. Richard began Lucire’s New York Fashion Week coverage for the fall 1999 season and has ensured
that we and our competitor, Hint, have been the dot-coms
permitted in to the Bryant Park tents, no questions asked. His
position is even more unique when you consider that most of
Lucire’s New York catwalk photographs have been shot by Richard, as he
fights for the magazine in and out of the photographers’ “pit”.
Montréal-based astrologer Susan Kelly writes Lucire’s
sassy and savvy horoscope page with the strong, fashion-conscious sensibilities of a Leo. She’s also a fashion
writer—and our Montréal editor. Which may explain why
she has the most stylish and style-conscious horoscope
going. Kelly has been reading the stars of the fashionable and wannabe for
years and has written for such haute publications in her native country as
Montréal Fashion, Definiti, Chic and Elm Street. Just to ensure she’s never
bored, Kelly also offers consultations and private instruction in astrology
and chairs Astrology Montréal. She’s also the author of an ebook on setting
personal style using astrology (available at Booklocker.com).
Amanda Dorcil, Lucire’s chief photographer, was behind the most
acclaimed editorial in our last issue, ‘Land Girls’. In this issue, the former
New York model and 2003 Metro Young Photographer of the Year brings
her talents to two shoots in this issue. She met Lucire publisher Jack Yan
and editor Nicola Brockie at L’Oréal New Zealand Fashion Week, where
she photographed visiting celebrities (proceeds from the images went to
charity). Two months later, Jack was so taken by her candour and instincts
that he asked her to be fashion editor of Lucire. Based in central Auckland,
New Zealand, Amanda accommodates her work for Lucire with professional photography in a frantic schedule.
Editor-in-chief Nicola Brockie joined the Lucire team as part of its L’Oréal
New Zealand Fashion Week contingent in 2003. A graduate of Greasepaint
in London, Nicola is an editor-in-chief—and beauty editor—with an edge:
she is a formally trained make-up artist. Plus, she herself is a very international wtg, the well travelled girl that Lucire is all about. She believes in
timelessness and a look that brings out one’s true self.
Jack Yan started Lucire in 1997, when it was
released as a web site serving out of New York.
His love of fashion came from his background as a
graphic designer. He relays this story: ‘When you’re
a struggling graphic designer doing menus and
black-and-white business cards, you look to the
top of your profession. Who is that? The art director of …,’ and he names some competing title. It’s
the act of publishing that Jack loves, coupled with
his teenage desire to become a journalist. Aside
from fashion, he is a regular international speaker,
a Medinge Group branding consultant, a well known typeface designer
and an author.
Phillip D. Johnson was born in Jamaica and migrated to the United
States in 1982 where he lived in Connecticut until the age of 18. He served
in the United States Navy from 1985 to 1989
and was honourably discharged in 1993. Before
becoming a fashion writer, Mr Johnson was the
Managing Editor of Metroline, a gay and lesbian
bimonthly news magazine in Hartford, Conn.
where he covered the local community as well
as writing off-Broadway and Broadway musical
and play reviews, reviews on music and books
and the occasional personality profile. A New
York fashion show veteran since the Bryant Park
tents came into existence, Phillip began writing
for Lucire in 2001 and serves as our features’ editor. Since 2002, he has
written the majority of our New York Fashion Week reviews, as well as our
stories from Fashion Week of the Americas in Miami.
Carolyn Enting is one of New Zealand’s most respected fashion editors. Her career has taken her to London; after returning to her native New
Zealand, she worked in modelling and public relations before turning to
professional journalism. She joined The Evening Post as a fashion reporter,
later assuming the fashion editor’s role, which she maintained when the
newspaper was effectively replaced by The Dominion Post. Every Monday,
she has a network television spot on tv One’s Good Morning discussing
fashion and style.
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PHOTOGRAPH OF JACK YAN BY STEFAN ENGESETH
Wendy Henderson joined the Lucire team in 2004 as style editor. Formerly running her own hair salon, Wendy has a keen sense of style—but
what really impresses us is her willingness to roll up her sleeves and make
shoots in this magazine happen. She lives in a stunning modernist home,
designed by her father-in-law, with her husband and two children in Stokes
Valley, New Zealand. She is one of the members of Style Intelligence, the
group that keeps Lucire editors in practice with industry techniques and
the needs of readers.
lu c ir e au gust 2004
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