kadiköy, pendi̇k, tuzla

Transcription

kadiköy, pendi̇k, tuzla
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
KADIKÖY, PENDİK, TUZLA
259
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
KADIKÖY
P
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
PENDİK
TUZLA
tanbuş
262
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
KADIKÖY
Kadıköy; Chalcedon – The Country of the Blind
Those who have not seen Kadıköy cannot say they seen Istanbul! The centre for culture, art,
and leisure on Istanbul’s Anatolian peninsula will give you the experience of the real joy of
Istanbul!
From Old Istanbul to New Istanbul
They saw Istanbul as worthless, but not Kadıköy!
Whenever “Istanbul” is mentioned, the historical peninsula, the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus,
and the Princes’ Islands always come to mind. However, Kadıköy, which is considered to be
the principal city of Istanbul on the Asian side, possesses characteristics that may be found
in very few places in the world. In this section, we shall present you with Yeldeğirmeni, the
historic centre of Kadıköy, Haydarpaşa, which symbolises the connection between Asia and
Europe, and Bağdat Avenue, along with the new centres of attraction, Pendik and Tuzla, as
three important cross-sections of 21st century Kadıköy.
Kadıköy in Pre-History
The first known inhabitants of Kadıköy settled on the hillsides overlooking the valley of Kuşdili – what is now Kurbağalıdere – during the Neolithic era, 9000 years ago. A few thousand
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
years later, around 1000BC, Phoenician trade colonies were set up in the area around
modern-day Fikirtepe. In time, Megarian
colonists migrating from Thrace arrived in
the area between Haydarpaşa Bay and Cape
Moda, opposite the original settlements,
and the settlement known as “Khalkedon”
was further developed after 659BC.
Byzas and Khalkedon
Before Byzas, the grandson of Zeus, founded his own city of Byzantion, he looked
over at Khalkedon and could not work
out why that city had been built on the
Asian side, because the Golden Horn was a
fertile place for agriculture and the fish that
teemed in the sea could virtually be plucked
out by hand... Byzas eventually said, “They
must have been blind to not have seen the
abundance here!” And because of this,
Kadıköy came to be called “The Country of
the Blind”.
Historians say that the Chalcedonians were
actually rather well forward-looking, as
“Khalkedon” already meant the “country of
copper”.
Eastern Roman Kadıköy
The Roman Emperor Constantine, after
getting rid of Licinius, the eastern Roman
Emperor with whom he had had a long
power struggle, with a final attack in a sea
battle between Üsküdar and Kadıköy, made
Byzantium his “capital” and announced it to
be “Nova Roma”. After he died, the name of
the city became “Constantinopolis”, and the
star of Khalkedon was extinguished for it to
become a place of summerhouses.
In 451AD, the importance of Khalkedon
was raised once more, as it became an Episcopal Centre. Mehmet Nuri Akbulut draws
attention to “the first steps in the great
historical schism” in the Christian religion
that shaped the Orthodox and Catholic
churches having been taken in Kadıköy.
(Source: Encyclopaedia of Istanbul, NTV
Publications)
263
tanbuş
264
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
The Historic Centre of Khalkedon
Because of the rapid urbanisation, a
thorough excavation has never been
carried out. Objects found in rescue
digs and by chance are on display in the
Archaeology Museum.
According to ancient sources of
“Khalkedon”, which has not really been
subjected to contemporary excavations,
there were holy springs, a theatre, a
hippodrome, a palace, and churches in
the city, as well as four harbours, one in
the modern-day Kadıköy Square, one on
Cape Fenerbahçe (Port of Hera), one to
the north of there (Port of Eutropo), and
another in Kalamış Bay. Its summerhouses
stretched as far as the coast of Maltepe.
The Port of Hera was also very important,
as Justinian I had a lighthouse built here,
called the “Pharos of Hera”, as part of
a beacon system. This is what gives the
modern-day neighbourhood of “Fener”
(“lighthouse”) its name.
Ottoman Kadıköy
Kadıköy became a part of the Ottoman
lands in 1353. The Turks settled for the
first time around the small mosque which
Sarı Kadı Mehmet Efendi had had built.
That small mosque is now the Osman
Agha Mosque. The Conqueror, after taking
Istanbul, had a Kadılık (the office of an
Islamic judge) established in Kadıköy,
and appointed Hızır Çelebi as Qadi. This
is how Kadıköy gained its name. The
settlement areas which were established
at the time of public leaders who were
both warriors and religious men, such as
Gözcü Baba, Eren Baba, Kartal Baba, and
Sarı Gazi, became the neighbourhoods
which later took their names from these
men, namely, Göztepe, Erenköy, Kartal,
and Sarıgazi. Ottoman Kadıköy was used
both for agriculture and as a place for
summerhouses and excursions.
In the second half of the 19th century,
the introduction of steamboats and the
Haydarpaşa – Izmit railway quickened the
development of Kadıköy. In 1868, when
the ownership of property by foreigners
was legalised, the affluent Levantines
acquired land in the vicinity of Moda and
Fenerbahçe and had villas built there.
With the civil and public buildings, such
as schools, churches, parks, the Selimiye
Barracks, and the Medical Faculty and
Model Hospital, which is now Haydarpaşa
Lycee, which were established by nonMuslims, Levantines, and the Muslim
bourgeoisie and created a contemporary
model city and culture, Kadıköy became
a place that could be lived in throughout
the year.
Republican Kadıköy
The foreign soldiers who had been living
in Istanbul and Kadıköy left Istanbul on
6th October 1923, after the establishment
of the Republic of Turkey. Kadıköy, which
became a separate district in 1930, became
even more modern, hand in hand with
the Republic. Electricity arrived in 1928,
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
and the first tramway, running between
Üsküdar and Kısıklı, started up in 1929.
In the 1980s, with the increase in
migration, the restructuring of Istanbul
Metropolitan Council and new plans for
public works, Kadıköy once again became
prominent as preferred place of settlement.
It appears that the Kadıköy side will soon
reach as far as the province of Kocaeli in
the west.
Our Kadıköy Tour Recommendations
First Stage: Kadıköy, Yeldeğirmeni Haydarpaşa
1.Ayrılık Fountain Marmaray and Metro
Station
2.Ayrılık Fountain
3.Ayrılık Fountain Street
4.Jewish Synagogue
5.Uzun Hafız Street and where the later
Railway Bridge is crossed: Duatepe Street
6.TAK Design Studio Kadıköy - Duatepe
Street
7.Rasim Pasha Mosque
8.Saint George Greek Orthodox Church
9.Saint Louis French Primary School /
Child Protection Foundation Building
10.Aziziye Bathhouse and descent to the
Kadıköy Wharf.
11.Kadıköy Rıhtım Square and Kadıköy
12.Haydarpaşa Pier
13.Haydarpaşa Station (inside and outside)
14.Historic Haydarpaşa Clock (On the
front of Haydarpaşa Station and inside)
15.Mythos Station Restaurant (and return
to Yeldeğirmeni on the same road - İskele
Street)
16.İskele (Çınar) Street, Yeldeğirmeni
(remains of old plane tree)
17.Ladikli Ahmed Agha Prayer Ground
and Fountain (ruin)
18.Ahmet Haşim House (wooden and
abandoned – at entrance to street, on
right)
19.Art Nouveau Valpreda Apartment
Block (İskele Street)
20.Osman Gazi Primary School (old
German Primary School)
21.Old French Primary School, new Kemal
Atatürk Lycee
22.Ayrılık Fountain Metro and departure
to Suadiye
Second Stage: Kadıköy by Train - Göztepe
- Erenköy - Bağdat Avenue in Suadiye
1.Ayrılık Fountain Marmaray and Metro
Station
2.Göztepe Station Building
3.Erenköy Station
4.Suadiye Station
5.Bağdat Avenue
6.Famous Brands, Special Shops (Bağdat
Avenue)
7.Return to Suadiye Station
Pendik
1.By Train from Suadiye to Pendik Station
2.Pendik Market (Gazipaşa Avenue)
3.Pendik Shore (Ankara and Güldeste
Avenues)
4.Pendik Marina
5.Pendik Station
Tuzla
1.Tuzla Marmaray Station
2.Dodo İstanbul Sea Club - Surf
3.Tour in Tuzla - Köfte and Fish
4.Tuzla Marina
5.Relaxation at Tuzla Thermal Facilities,
Historic Kaplıca Hotel, İçmeler
265
tanbuş
* Haydarpaşa İskelesi
* Haydarpaşa Garı
* Tarihi Haydarpaşa Saati
* Mythos Gar Lokantası
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
* İskele Çınar Sokak
* Ladikli Ahmet Ağa Namaz
ve Çeşmesi
* Ahmet Haşim Evi
Aziz
Kadıköy R
tanbuş
Ayrılık Çeşme Marmaray ve
Metro İstasyonu
Saint Louis Fransız İlkokulu /
Çocuk Esirgeme Kurumu
Eski Fransız Ortaokulu
Yeni Kemal Atatürk Lisesi
Art Nouveau Valfreda
Apartmanı
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
zgah
ziye Hamamı
Rıhtım Meydanı
Yahudi Sinagogu
Ayrılık Çeşmesi
Ayrılık Çeşmesi Sokak
Rasimpaşa Camii
Ayios Georgios Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi
TAK Tasarım Atölyesi Kadıköy
Uzun Hafız Sokak
tanbuş
268
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
First Stage: Kadıköy, Yeldeğirmeni Haydarpaşa
1) Ayrılık Fountain Marmaray and Metro
Station
Wherever you’re coming from in Istanbul,
you can get to Kadıköy from your nearest
metro or Marmaray station. Get off at
Ayrılık Fountain Station.
You are now in the neighbourhood of
Yeldeğirmeni whose official name is
“Rasimpaşa”, one of Kadıköy’s historic
neighbourhoods. There is a flat area, which
the old people of Kadıköy knew by the
name of “Talimhane”, where Halit Ağa
Avenue and Gazi Mustafa Kemal Pasha
Primary School are, and in between these
two busy places is the neighbourhood of
Yeldeğirmeni. After the declaration of the
Republic, the remaining section of the
shrinking Haydarpaşa Meadow, the Station
building, the buildings on the harbour, and
Yeldeğirmeni were brought together and
became “Rasimpaşa”. In the 15th and 16th
centuries, there were villas with gardens in
the neighbourhood. Between the years 1774
and 1789, Abdülhamit I had four windmills
built here.
In the second half of the 1800s, settlement
in Yeldeğirmeni rapidly increased, and after
the fire that broke out in Kuzguncuk, where
there were many Jews living, some of them
came and settled in here, and with that the
building of apartment blocks began in the
neighbourhood. The pluralistic settlement
of Yeldeğirmeni is typical of what was seen
after the Ottoman period began.
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
2) The Ayrılık (“Separation”) Fountain
which Gave its Name to the Station
When this fountain was first built on the
Ibrahimağa Meadow by Murat IV in 1600,
its function was extremely common: A
“Compass”; a “direction determining” and
Prayer Ground fountain. The sultan and his
soldiers would meet up here when setting
off on campaign, and here they would
wish their families farewell. The “Surre-i
Hümayûn” caravan, which would carry the
sultan’s gifts to Mecca and Medina every
year, would first stop here, and the next
day they would be wished a safe journey
from this spot. Four hundred years later,
the fountain, after its location had been
changed several times on the grounds of
Istanbul’s “reconstruction”, was returned to
Ibrahimağa.
The Ayrılık Fountain has been the source
of inspiration for artists, writers, and
musicians. In fact, the famous ney player,
Kudsi Erguner, recently wrote a book in
Turkish and French on this subject.
Kadıköy and Üsküdar, in terms of fresh
water sources, were more fortunate than the
European side. We recommend you take a
look at this publication about the fountain
and other historical fountains in Kadıköy,
which was prepared by Hasan Özgen and
Görkem Kızılkayak with watercolour
drawings by the architect Metin Keskin:
“Kaynaktan Mahalleye Ab-ı Hayat: Kadıköy
Çeşmeleri”
(For more detailed information See: Tansuğ
Avniye, “Fountains”, Encyclopaedia of
Istanbul, NTV Publications)
269
tanbuş
270
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
3) Ayrılık Çeşmesi Street and Cemetery
Leave the station and after a short walk,
you will come to Ayrılık Fountain Street.
This street is famous for the row of wooden
houses on it and, right next to that, the
Ayrılık Fountain and its Cemetery.
When you come to the Ayrılık Fountain
Cemetery next to the street… Among the
people this cemetery is known as the “Arab
Cemetery”, but there is nothing Arabic
about it at all. Burials were performed here
until the 1900s.
4) Uzun Hafız Street
The common characteristic of the streets
of Yeldeğirmeni is that they give you the
feeling that you will suddenly be deposited
into the sea. If you walk as far as the end of
the land side of Uzun Hafız Street, you will
have arrived at the Railway Bridge. Cross
the bridge…
Duatepe Street – If you cross the bridge on
Uzun Hafız Street and turn right, you will
reach Duatepe Street. In time, opposite
you, a building which was one of the oldest
cinemas in Kadıköy will appear. This was
the Özen Cinema. Kadıköy Council, which
rented and restored the building, opened it
to the service of the neighbourhood in 2013,
and it now houses the Child Protection
Mental Health Centre, the Cemal Süreya
Child Education Centre, the Rasimpaşa
Volunteers Office, and the Yeldeğirmeni
Project Office.
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
5) TAK Design Studio
This building, whose short name is TAK, is
an independent studio directed by Kadıköy
Council, the ÇEKÜL Foundation, and
Kentsel Strateji. The TAK programmes and
events are open to designers, primarily
participants who live or work in Kadıköy.
The studio’s first event was the production
of ideas projects for the 3 islands,
neighbourhoods and region of Kadıköy with
the 3x3 Strategic Design Programme.
Web Site: http://www.kadikoytasarim.org
There is also the international “MuralIst”
mural festival hosted in the streets of
Yeldeğirmeni, which was coordinated from
this office…
271
tanbuş
272
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
6) Rasim Pasha Mosque (On the corner of
Kır Kahvesi Sok. and Rıhtım İskele Sok.)
You are now on Kır Café Street, the café
of which is no longer there but its name
has stayed with the street. Walk to the
corner where it meets Iskele Street. Right
on the corner, you will see the Rasim
Pasha Mosque. This mosque was built by
İkbal Hanım, the wife of Abdülhamid’s
naval minister, Rasim Pasha, in 1902, after
her husband died. The Istanbul Cultural
Inventory records that it was built in 1902. It
is a simplified example of the Turkish NeoClassical movement.
7) Saint George Greek Orthodox Church
(Karakolhane Cad.)
The Saint George Greek Orthodox church
appears before you on Karakolhane Avenue.
There is a fifteen-metre high bell tower in
the garden of the church, which was built
in 1895. The bell in this tower was cast by
Samatyalı Zilciyan Usta, who was worldfamous for the bells he made. The interior
wall decoration, made using the mosaic
technique, is still extremely beautiful, and
the church is still open for worship.
8) Saint Louis French Primary School –
Child Protection Foundation
Directly opposite the church is a blue
building which is now the Child Protection
Foundation, but at one time it was the Saint
Louis French Primary School.
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
Around the year 1900, the children of
Yeldeğirmeni, which was one of the most
densely populated areas of Kadıköy, were
finding it rather difficult coming and going
to the Saint Joseph College in Moda. The
decision was made to build a primary
school section of the Saint Joseph College
here for the children in Yeldeğirmeni,
which had a majority of Christians and
Jews. This school, which was built at No.53
Karakolhane Avenue, was opened in 1906
and given the name of Saint Louis Primary
School. (Source: Kemal Atatürk Lisesi
FaceBook Page)
9) Hemdat İsrael Synagogue (Uzunhafız
Sok.)
After the 1892 Kuzguncuk fire, the Jews
who had crowded into Yeldeğirmeni
bought two neighbouring pieces of land
between Uzunhafız Street and İzzettin with
the intention of building a synagogue for
worship.
The synagogue, which was opened officially
in 1899, was given the name of the “Hemdat
Israel Synagogue”.
10) Aziziye Bathhouse - Recaizade Sokak
The Aziziye Bathhouse in Yeldeğirmeni was
built in the reign of Sultan Abdülaziz as a
two-storey “twin bathhouse”. It has a website
which is extremely functional for local and
foreign visitors. http://aziziyehamam.com
273
tanbuş
274
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
11) Kadıköy Haydarpaşa Rıhtım Street
and Kadıköy Square
If you walk to the left when you come
down to the main avenue, you will have
arrived at Kadıköy Square. Follow the road
and see the Conservatoire Building, the
Haldun Taner Theatre Stage, the historic
Kadıköy Steamboat Pier, the building that
was the Kadıköy Government Office and
now belongs to the Kadıköy Council, and
the park to the right of it. You can take a
look at the bustling Kadıköy Market, which
preserves its historical character, or get on
the nostalgic tramway and, without getting
tired out, get off where you can see Altıyol,
the famous Bull Statue on Bahariye where
residents of Kadıköy meet up, Bahariye
Avenue on which you can see the Süreyya
Opera House, and the Bulgarian and Greek
Orthodox churches, or the neighbourhood
of Moda, and Koço, the square with a holy
spring.
12) Haydarpaşa Pier
The Pier, designed by the Architect Vedat
Tek, was built with the aim of providing
easy communication between Haydarpaşa
Station and the European side. The Pier
has had the function for many years of
connecting Haydarpaşa Station and two
continents by a sea route.
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
13) Haydarpaşa Station
The building of Haydarpaşa Station
was begun in 1906, during the reign of
Abdülhamit, and began service in 1908
as the principal station of the Anatolia –
Baghdad Railway.Because the Germans
had resolved to reach Baghdad by railway,
they first decided to “lick into shape”
the Haydarpaşa-Izmit line, and then
they embarked on their enterprise.An
international competition for the design of
a large station building was announced, and
the neo-classical design with an Orientalist
inspiration of the German architects,
Helmuth Cuno and Otto Ritter, won the
commission. The construction began in
1906 and a section of the passenger hall was
opened in 1908, and they were able to finish
the whole building one and a half years later.
To everyone’s distress, the station suffered
a fire in 2010 and its roof was destroyed.
Due to the renewal of the Ankara-Istanbul
train lines and the works needed to fix
the building, the station was not used for
some time.When the suburban trains were
stopped due to the reorganisation works
been carried out on a city-scale and the
TCDD rail systems, the last train to leave
on 13th June 2013 was waved off by excited
youths and the general public.
275
tanbuş
276
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
14) The Clock in Haydarpaşa Station and
Mustafa Şem’i Pek
Mustafa Şem’i Pek made the large clock
which sits on the pediment on the western
face of the station. He lived around the
end of the 19th and beginning of the
20th centuries and was one of the last
great master clockmakers of the Ottoman
era. He also has a clock on a stand in the
Dolmabahçe Palace, and he was, especially,
a master at making tower clocks, the large
faces known as “mebani”, and clocks for
town squares. Abdülhamit II made an order
of five clocks especially for the anniversary
of the German Emperor Wilhelm II’s
ascension to the throne, and for each clock,
the master who made them was presented
with a thank you letter carrying Wilhelm’s
own signature together with a letter of
commendation from the Empire’s industry
minister.
15) Mythos Station Restaurant Haydarpaşa
If you like station restaurants, then the
historic “Mythos Station Restaurant”, which
has been in operation at Haydarpaşa Station
since 1908, is just the place for you.
Web: http://www.mythos.com.tr
16) Rıhtım Pier (Çınar) Street
In the Yapı Kredi Publications book
entitled Streets of Istanbul 101 Streets
from 101 Writers, each writer describes a
street in Istanbul in their own style. Iskele
Street, which you will partially see before
descending to Rıhtım Avenue, is described
in detail by the writer Türker Armaner,
a former resident of Kadıköy. (Source:
“Iskele Sokak”, Armaner, Türker, “İstanbul
Sokakları 101 Yazardan 101 Sokak” İstanbul,
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
2008, Yapı Kredi Yayınları)
17) Ladikli Ahmed Agha Prayer Ground
and Fountain
Here, the aforementioned fountain and
prayer ground is right on the right-hand
corner of the street. It was in a dilapidated
condition in 2013.
It was later included within the
“Yeldeğirmeni/ Rasimpaşa Neighbourhood
Regeneration Project”. In 2013, it was still at
the project stage.
18) Ahmet Haşim House (İskele Sok. No. 2)
The house in which Ahmet Haşim lived in
the Armistice years was in a dilapidated
condition until 2013.Later, the Council
bought the building and completed the
necessary preparations for its restoration. It
has been decided that, after its restoration, it
will function as a “Cultural Centre”.
19) Art Nouveau Valpreda Apartment
Block or the Italian Apartment Block
This is the building which Armaner
called the “restored Art Nouveau Italian
Apartment Block”:The Valpreda Apartment
Block, which was built by Levi Kehribarcı
in 1909, is known as the Italian Apartment
Block because this is where the engineers
of Haydarpaşa Station and the Italian
craftsmen who carried out the stonework
lived.
277
tanbuş
278
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
20) Osman Gazi Primary School - old
German Primary School
This building was first built as a school for
the children of the German engineers who
came to Istanbul for the construction of
Haydarpaşa Station, and it was made from
materials which were used in the station.
After the declaration of the Republic, it was
nationalised in 1935 and became a Turkish
school, and in 1950, the Osmangazi Primary
School.
21) Old French Middle School, new Kemal
Atatürk Anatolian Lycee
This school was opened to education in
Yeldeğirmeni in 1895 by the nuns of the
“Oblates de l’Assomption” who came to
Turkey (Kadıköy) from France in 1894.
It was given the name of Saint Euphemie,
who was an important saint of Kadıköy. The
nuns were actually concerned with the Şifa
Hospital in Moda, which is no longer there,
and they served in this hospital from 1905.
The children of Yeldeğirmeni families who
had low incomes found it difficult to get an
education in the school at that time as they
were all fee-paying colleges. For this reason,
the Sainte Euphemie School in Yeldeğirmeni
operated as a primary and middle school
for Notre Dame de Sion, then later, the Saint
Louis School, which opened in 1906, served
as a primary school for Saint Joseph.
The building of the Sainte Euphemie School
operated and was originally constructed
on Taşlı Bayır Street. The school, which
changed its identity in 1935, continued first
as “3rd Middle School”, then in 1950, as the
Kemal Atatürk Primary School”. (Source:
Kaal Mezunları)
Second Stage: By Train to Kadıköy Göztepe - Erenköy - Bağdat Avenue in
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
Suadiye
1) The Station which looks over the Train
from the Hill: Göztepe
The first suburban train station on the
Anatolian side were built between 1871 and
1873. A short time later, pashas connected to
the court settled around Göztepe, built villas,
and raised the importance of the location.
Thus it became necessary to build a station
here. For those who would like detailed
information: “The Man who Founded the
Neighbourhood of Göztepe”
The first wooden building in Göztepe station,
which is still used as employees’ quarters,
was constructed in the middle of the 1870s.
However, when the train from Feneryolu
came into Göztepe, it would climb up a rather
steep ramp, and in wet and snowy weather,
the wheels of the locomotive would turn
where they were on the rails and the train
would stay where it was.
In order to make the ramp safe, the track
was dug up and the level of the rails was
lowered as far as 11 metres. In the course of
this, the station building stayed where it was.
When passengers found it difficult to see
what was in front of them when they got on
or off, the present stone station building was
constructed.
2) Erenköy Station -1892
3) Suadiye Station - 1892
Keskin and Akdemir describe the interaction
of the suburban stations with the city by
approaching it from the angle of their
function in Istanbul: Metin Keskin - Zafer
Akdemir Link
Then there are the Erenköy and Suadiye
Stations which was an old reference point for
all of the described characteristics.
279
tanbuş
280
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
4) Bağdat Avenue
The most important of Istanbul’s avenues
used to be Istiklal Avenue in Pera. It is such
a shame that it is now simply known as
“Istiklal” in the vocabulary of Istanbulites,
its quality of being an “avenue” has long
been taken by Kadıköy and Nişantaşı!As it is
known that the traces of Bağdat Avenue can
be followed back to the Ottoman Empire,
and even to Byzantium, it is said that
the culture of Fikirtepe, by looking at its
relationship with Anatolia, may go back as
far as pre-history. The Baghdad road was an
important trade route for its rich plant and
sea products, and also for caravans and the
postal system, up to the 19th century. When
the Haydarpaşa-Izmit railway started in
1873, the region immediately began to take
in migrants, and its nearby vineyards, and
even market gardens, were used for housing.
Starting from Göztepe and its vicinity, a
1000-hectare piece of land was parcelled
up, sold, and villas with pools and gardens,
and elegant low-rise summerhouses
were built, sometimes by the hands of
foreign architects. The abandonment of
residential houses on the avenue to be
used for trade, such as shops and offices,
in the 1980s meant that here too there was
intensive construction work. Despite this
development, the spirit of Kadıköy was not
abandoned by the inhabitants of the avenue,
and in spite of the phenomena of “luxury
consumption”, the culture and spirit of the
city was kept alive.
The World’s Fourth: Bağdat Avenue
When you come on to the avenue from
Suadiye Station, on both sides of this
avenue, which is softened by its greenness,
flowers and trees, you will find lined
up next to each other the most local or
globally-famous branded shops and eating
establishments.
Last year, CNN Travel had an organisation
called “Presence Mystery Shopping” in
Paris carry out research which meant
them sending out “mystery shoppers” for
the subject of the “World’s Best Shopping
Avenues” (Source: CNN Travel) According
to the results of the research, our “Bağdat
Avenue” was selected as the “World’s 4th
Best Shopping Avenue” leaving Paris’
famous Champs Elysees, New York’s 5th
Avenue, and Tokyo’s Ginza behind them.
http://www.bagdatcaddesi.net
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
Pendik
Pendik - Pantikapion, Panticio, Pantiki, Pench-deh, Bebrikya, Temenye
When coming from the direction of Anatolia, Pendik is the entry gate to Istanbul, situated in
the south-west of the Kocaeli Peninsula and 39km from the centre of Istanbul.
8500-year-old Neolithic Village
A significant portion of the evidence acquired from the archaeological digs carried out
during the course of the preliminary works of the Marmaray rail system was uncovered in
Pendik, and it shines a light on the pre-history of Istanbul. The information gleaned from
these excavations showed that the oldest settlement in Pendik stretched back not to 5000BC
but to 8500BC, and this created much excitement.
The Export of Culture from Anatolia to Europe
In the cemetery of a village at the levels of the Neolithic period, a skeleton was found to have
been buried in a seated position set among burials of bodies in a foetal position. The head of
province’s Culture and Tourism office, Prof. Dr. Ahmet Emre Bilgili gave the good news that
instead of the finds being sent to the Archaeology Museum, a new museum and archaeo-park
would preserve them at the site at which they were found.
281
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
Pendik Sahil
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
Pendik Tren İstasyonu Önü Hat Boyu Caddesi
Mehmet Akif Ersoy Kültür Sanat Merkezi
Pendik Çarşısı
Pendik Marina
tanbuş
284
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
The Temenye Tumulus
The Pendik settlement is at the location
of Temenye, 1.5km to the east of the
Pendik district centre. The first scientific
excavation of the settlement was made
by Prof. Dr. Şevket Aziz Kansu. In 1986,
adobe structures with pitted ceilings on a
round plan, similar to those of the Fikirtepe
culture, came to the surface. In 1992, the
museum carried out a second rescue dig.
The late artist, Erkmen Senan, made a
detailed record of the digs carried out up
to 2010 and their finds in his personal
blog. See: Erkmen Senan, “Ancient Finds in
Pendik”. For more documents of the TAY
(Archaeological Settlements of Turkey)
Project see: TAY. The Excavation Records of
the Pendik Tumulus and Aydos Castle Digs
are also in the Istanbul Cultural Inventory.
The archaeologist point out the necessity
of continuing their excavations on the
motorway immediately behind the Green
Park Hotel.
the time of Orhan Bey, in 1328, Pendik
came under ottoman administration. Its
stature would be described like a legend.
During the course of the campaigns carried
out in the east, at the time of Beyazid the
Thunderbolt, the Anatolian side of Istanbul
was taken several times by the Byzantines
and Pendik also changed hands. It was
finally and definitely taken under Ottoman
control along with the conquest of Istanbul
by Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror.
The Old Names of Pendik
The oldest known name of Pendik is
Pantikapion, Pantikapeum, or Pantikape.
The Romans knew it as Panticio, Pantecio,
or Panticia. The name Pantecion or
“Pantiki”, which was used in the Byzantine
period, has the meaning of “all side
surrounded by walls”. Some say it comes
from the word “Pantikhion” in Greek, or the
Latin “Pantichium”, which meant “shipyard”.
According to some sources, Pendik has the
meaning “five capes”. The people who came
from the Ural mountains and settled here
used the name “Pench-deh”, meaning “five
villages”.
The Bebryces, who were a branch of the
Phrygians, called this region “Bebrycia”.
After this, “Pendikion” along with the
whole of the region became part of Roman
sovereign territory.
Migrants from Ioannina and Other Places
in Pendik
After 1923, with the Treaty of Lausanne,
exchangees coming from Drama, Kavala,
and especially from Ioannina were settled
here. See: Lausanne Exchangees Foundation
Although it was first considered sending a
total of 55,000 people from the Preveze and
Ioannina communities to the Antalya and
Silifke regions, a portion of them wanted to
go to a place close to high schools so they
could send their children to university, and
for this reason, they were taken to Pendik.
2,200 exchangees, who came to Pendik
on a ship called Sulh (Peace) which left
from the port of Preveze, were greeted by
a committee and settled in houses which
had previously been set aside for them.
The demographic structure of Pendik went
through a great change. While the Muslim
population was increased, the exchanges
became the largest community within the
demographic structure.
Pendik in the Ottoman Era
Pendik, like Kadıköy, was one of the parts
of Istanbul that became Ottoman before
1453. When they took Aydos Castle, during
The Fires of Pendik, Azaryan Efendi, and
the Paris-Style Planning
Pendik has suffered three great fires, and it
was completely reduced to ashes in the last
one in 1889. A year after the fire, the first
town plans were drawn up by the architects
and engineers that Pendikli Azaryan Efendi,
the Assembly of Notables Senate Foreign
Affairs Council Leader, had brought from
Paris. Thus, Pendik became the first planned
town of Turkey.
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
The Famous Shipyard of Pendik and the
Increasing Population
The opening of the shipyard in 1982 and
the growth of industrial establishments due
to increasing migration meant that Pendik
ceased to be a place of summerhouses and
apartment blocks started to replace the
houses with gardens.
The foundations of the Pendik Shipyard
were laid down in 1969, and ten years later
it was ready to begin work. The opening
in 1982 encompassed the first stage of
the Shipyard. After the 17th August 1999
earthquake and the damage that the military
shipyard in Gölcük suffered, the Pendik
Shipyard was given over to the Istanbul
Shipyard Command. It is now the largest
shipyard in the Balkans zone, and the third
largest in Europe.
Why Go to Pendik?
To see the change that this historic and prehistoric region of Istanbul has gone through,
to see the traces of the past, to relax on
the coast, perhaps to stay in its new hotels
well-equipped with contemporary comforts,
to travel on the economical high-speed rail
systems, to see a snippet of the lives of the
new inhabitants of Pendik, to get a taste of
its traditional fish restaurants; are these not
enough reasons to go to Pendik?
Pendik Station by Train
Transport to Pendik these days has been
made totally easier and the choices have
increased. (See: Transport options. For
suburban train timetables, take a look at the
TCDD website.)
You will pass through the stations of the
neighbourhoods where the old Istanbul
summerhouses were, and see the Sea of
Marmara and the Princes’ Islands. When
you get off at Pendik Station, you will come
out in front of the bustling Hatboyu Avenue.
(Map)
Pendik Market (Gazipaşa Avenue)
From Hatboyu Avenue, walk towards the
seaside. You are now on Gazipaşa Avenue,
one of the main avenues of Pendik. On this
avenue, on which there is also the Pendik
Market which goes down as far as the sea,
you will see stalls, shops, and shopping
centres will answer your every need, and
many take-aways and restaurants where you
can get food and drink.
Pendik Station by Train
From Hatboyu Avenue, walk towards the
seaside. You are now on Gazipaşa Avenue,
one of the main avenues of Pendik. On this
avenue, on which there is also the Pendik
Market which goes down as far as the sea,
you will see stalls, shops, and shopping
centres will answer your every need, and
many take-aways and restaurants where you
can get food and drink.
Mehmet Akif Ersoy Culture and Art Centre
The old Council building now serves as
the Mehmet Akif Ersoy Art Centre, where
youths and children are taught, which
organises handicraft and music courses.
The Pendik Coast
From where you are you can more easily
reach the coast via the Ankara and Güldeste
Avenues. When you get down to the coast,
you will see the pier where the IDO Sea
Buses and Ferries draw up. If you walk to
the right, after a few restaurants and social
facilities, you will see the Pendik Marina.
Pendik Marina
The marina covers an area of 131 thousand
square metres and has a capacity for 750
yachts.
Pendik’in en eski et ve balık lokantalarından
“Temenye” Marina’ya taşınmış.
Web: www.temenyebalikcisi.com
The Bosnian Sandžak Restaurant, which
was established by the Agoviç family in
1974, may be interesting for those seeking
different tastes.
Web: www.mostarbalkanmutfagi.com
285
tanbuş
286
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
Tuzla
Tuzla, on the coast of the Sea of Marmara between Gebze and Kartal, is the southernmost
district of the province of Istanbul. It is known for its shipyard, its fish and Köfte, its healing
waters and hot springs, its universities, the Bayramoğlu holiday village, its Formula 1 track,
and its marina in the shape of a giant seabream which will open in 2015. It is said that it took
its name from the saltpans (on the current Cape Mercan) that were once here.
Ottoman Tuzla
The settlement of Tuzla was first taken under Ottoman control by Beyazit the Thunderbolt
in 1400. The region became Ottoman for good after 1453. The Greeks who lived in Tuzla, as
a result of the Treaty of Lausanne, exchanged places with the Turks who came from Salonica,
Kavala and Drama.
You can find out interesting information on the current condition of the exchangees on the
Tuzla Sosyal Derneği and Tuzla Sözlü Tarih Projesi websites.
Tuzla Today
Tuzla was known as “Istanbul’s orchard”,
but when it became an industrial zone
in the 1980s, the agriculture completely
disappeared. However, the town, which
preserved its identity as a Greek fisherman’s
village until 1912, is now protecting its
character as a source of fishing income.
The Giant Seabream on the Coast or Tuzla
Marina
Tuzla’s new marina, to be completed
in 2015, from the air resembles a giant
seabream. Also in the marina, which will
have a capacity of 850 yachts, will be a
shopping centre, a waterpark, and a five-star
hotel, which will be created on islands in
the sea.
Tuzla Marmaray Station
You can get to Tuzla by train by getting off
at the Pendik Marmaray Station.
When you come onto Tuzla Square,
which has been re-organised as part of the
Marmaray project, you can go to the “Teras”
viewing cafés which you will see in front of
you, and watch the region with a panoramic
view.
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
Historic Tuzla Station
Tuzla’s first and historic train station is still
standing and is very close to the present
train station. It is on Hatboyu Avenue. The
old Tuzla station is the only architectural
structure of its type on the Anatolian
Baghdad railway route.
Dodo İstanbul Sea Club
The Tuzla Dodo Istanbul Sea Club was
established along the lines of the BeachClub concept which has become popular
over the last decade and is an ideal place for
both swimming and surfing.
Köfte and Fish in Tuzla
Istanbulites have been coming to Tuzla for
years to eat köfte and fish.
Here are the oldest and most traditional
places:
Meraklı Köfteci
This was founded in 1953. Its curiosity
comes from them using meat from animals
they have raised themselves and from
conscientiously not changing the quality or
its menu.
Web: http://www.meraklikofteci.com
Here are some other well-loved Tuzla Köfte
restaurants on the same avenue:
Doktorun Yeri: Tel: 0216 395 81 74,
Filizler Köftecisi: Tel: 0216 395 91 06,
Kekik Köfte: Tel: 0216 446 45 10
You have a lot of choice when it comes to
fish.
Mercan Balık (Tel: 0216 395 60 59), one of
Tuzla’s oldest. There might also be Dodo
Balık at the same place.
Tuzla Thermal Facilities and Healing
Waters (İçmeler)
A station away from Tuzla (İçmeler Station),
you can reach the historic thermal springs
and healing water facilities by train or by
foot along the coast.
The Tuzla İçmeler Thermal Springs, which
have provided healthcare to people for 500
years, is still with us today.
A Little-Known Work by Oerley or Örley in
İstanbul: Tuzla Kaplıca (Thermal Springs)
Hotel
From 1927 until the end of the 1930s, many
foreign architects from Europe were invited
to Turkey.
Among these was the Austrian Robert
Oerley. Oerley was already known as “the
health building architect of the Republican
era” because of the many projects he had
done for the Health Ministry. While he was
living in Turkey, he also used the surname
“Örley”.
The Tuzla Health Spa Thermal Springs Hotel
(Tuzla İçmeleri Kaplıca Oteli), because it
was built principally as a health facility at
the time it was constructed, it was equipped
with the modern technology and apparatus
of the time. Atatürk would also from time
to time visit the Tuzla health Spa for the
purpose of a cure, and he would stay at the
hotel for a few days.
Web: www.tuzlakaplicalari.com
287
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
Dodo İstanbul Sea Club
tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
* Tuzla Terminal Tesisleri
* Tarihi Kaplıca Oteli
* İçmeler
Tuzla İstasyonu
Tuzla Lokantalar