Opole Region

Transcription

Opole Region
Opole Region
sightseeing tours
93
Opole
Region
The Opole Region is a basin of folk craftsmanship including hand-painted porcelain, intricately painted Easter eggs, and
wicker baskets. It is also famous for delicious cuisine. Every tourist knows how Silesian dumplings taste and how tasty are
roulade, red cabbage, round wheat cake
with poppy seeds and cottage cheese
(“kołocz”). It was also here that palaeontologists discovered the skeleton of the oldest dinosaur in the world.
Opole Province (Voivodeship) is situated in
the south-west part of the country, on the
Silesian Lowland, in the upper basin of the
Odra River. From the south-west, the lowland is surrounded by the Sudety Mountains. In the middle, the Chełmiński Hump
(Silesian Upland) is elevated.
Opole Province shares a border with the
provinces of Wielkopolskie, Łódzkie and
Dolnośląskie and on the south with the
Czech Republic. The main transportation
route is the A-4 highway, which is a part
of Pan-European shipping corridor, BerlinKiev. The main water artery, the Odra River, flows parallel to the A-4 highway. In the
future, the Odra is going to be an important
element of international inland navigation
(in Opole the segment is 111.6 km long).
In the stronghold
by the Odra River
www.opole.pl
A walk around Opole usually starts from the
Old Town. Equipped with maps and folders
from the nearby Tourist Information Centre (ul.
Krakowska 15, tel. (077) 4511987, we are setting off.
The nearest airports are in Wrocław and Katowice. In the future a regional airport in
Kamień Śląski (Gogolin commune) is
planned. In the Opole province three scenic parks have been designated (Saint
Anne’s Mountain, Opawskie Mountains,
Stobrawskie Forests), 34 nature reserves,
and 6 protected landscape areas. There are
over 20 thousand architectural monuments, almost 9 thousand living monuments, about 200 castles, palaces, manor
houses, trails with unique wooden church
architecture and medieval polychrome –
these are the riches of the Opole Region.
Rising high over the Old Town is the Renaissance town hall built after the Florentine
Pallazzo Vecchio. The Opole cathedral has
two towers. The real treasure of the church
sanctuary is a Gothic painting of the Mother of God of Opole. There is a tombstone of
prince Jan Dobry, a late Gothic triptych, a picture of the family tree of the Piasts, a mannerist pulpit and a late Gothic baptismal font
with the emblem of the city.
The Gothic Franciscan Church is a place where
Polish princes are buried. The Piast Mausoleum
is situated in St. Anne’s Chapel. There are tombstones of the princes of Opole, a polychrome
from 14th century and an altar-triptych which
shows St. Anne with the monastery’s benefactor Władysław I and Władysław III Opolczyk,
St. Barbara and St. Hedwig of Silesia – the wife
of Henry the Bearded.
The Opole Region as a borderland has a tumultuous, rich history and multicultural heritage, which is rarely seen, in other regions.
At various times it was ruled by the Piast
Dynasty, Czech kings, Habsburgs from Austria, Prussians and Germans. Since 1945
Opole Silesia has belonged to Poland.
In the underground crypt, we can see the
Gothic polychrome with the Crucifixion group
from the beginning of the 14th century – the
oldest one that has survived in Upper Silesia.
This is the resting place of princes and
princesses: Elizabeth, a granddaughter of
Władysław Łokietek and Władysław III Opolczyk.
Mixed on national and ethnic levels, the people of Opole demonstrate cultural autonomy of this region on the map of Poland. Citizens call themselves Poles, Silesians,
and Germans. The rich and neat Opole
countryside is synonymous with the Opole
Region.
95
We cross the Młynówka Canal. It seems to resemble Venice and it is a “substitute” at least
for those who have never been to Venice. This
is the most beautiful place in the city centre,
especially at night when the canal is lit. The
canal together with the weir and “Groszowy
Bridge” were listed in the register of monuments as assets of the industrial heritage of
the Opole Region. In the future, when the
Młynówka is cleaned and the walking paths
along the “Venice of Opole” to the river port
on Bolko Island are reconstructed, traditional gondolas and boats will again be a part of
this scenery. In the summer, you can go on
a cruise along the canal.
of Thirteen Rows” was created by Jerzy
Grotowski.
Villa Island Pasieka is the cradle of the city.
“Groszowy Bridge” in secessionist style will
lead you from the centre to the island. Piast
Tower on Pasieka Island is the remnant of the
Piast Castle. In this place, archaeologists
discovered “Ostrówek” – the early medieval
stronghold of Opolanie, which is partly displayed in the Museum of Opole Silesia. These
places are the most recognizable symbols of
Opole in the whole country.
Opole is also the site of the National Theatre
Confrontations “Polish Classics” and National Festival of Puppet Theatres.
Jerzy Grotowski (1933-99) was a director,
reformer, theatre anthropologist, and creator
of modern theatre of the 20th century. The
Laboratory Theatre of Grotowski belongs to
the list of the most important institutions of
20th century art in the world. In College de
France, the Theatre Anthropology Department
has been created especially for Grotowski.
The year 2009 (50th anniversary of creating
the Laboratory Theatre) has been put on the
list of anniversaries celebrated under the auspices of UNESCO.
The new seat of the University of Opole is the
pride of the city. It has a renovated gallery of
baroque sculpture on the slope. Cast in
bronze are the figures of Osiecka, Niemen and
Grotowski.
The cradle
of European
concrete
The capital
of Polish Song
and theatre
Historical and geographical character of
the capital of the region is best shown in the
fountain “Ceres of Opole” sculpture by Edmund Gomansky on Daszyński’s Square. The
goddess of fertility and abundance (Demeter) is surrounded by mythological gods who
symbolize the pillars of industry in Opole: agriculture (Proserpina), rafting and navigation
(Neptun, Glaucus) as well as the rock and
concrete industry (Hercules).
Opole is most attractive for tourists at the end
of May. Since 1963, for a week, the whole city
becomes the capital of Polish Song. The characteristic Piast Tower and Opole Amphitheatre,
designed by Florian Jesionowski, are known
to all Poles thanks to TV broadcasts. A similar festival, older than this one in Opole, is only
organized in San Remo.
City councillors and the people of Opole
dream about creating a Museum of Polish Song
here. The Amphitheatre building is the seat of
the City Culture Centre:
www.mok.vel.pl
Places near Opole are the cradle of the European concrete and limestone industry. These
areas were perfect for building a cement plant
because of the marl – limestone with a great
admixture of loam minerals which is a good
material to make Portland concrete.
Particularly interesting musical events include: the International Percussion Festival and
the International Festival “Jazz Rock Meeting”.
In 1959, in a tenement number 4 situated in
the Old Town, the worldwide famous “Theatre
Local deposits of marl were used for building
purposes from the Middle Ages, but not until
the second half of the 19th century did they
98
is the only one in Poland where one can see
the Western Lowland Gorillas and the California Sea Lions.
became natural resources that influenced the
economic development of Opole.
The first plant that produced Portland concrete,
known as “Portland Zementwerke”, was built
near today’s Struga Street. Its owner was
Friedrich Wilhelm Grundmann. By the year
1908, in Upper Silesia ten cement mills were
built, nine of them in Opole and its surroundings. “The heiress” to the 150-year-old tradition of Opole concrete is “ODRA” – the oldest
working concrete mill in Poland.
Open-air
Ethnographical
Museum
in Bierkowice
Tourist product of Opole
The train station remembers the times when
smoke from the concrete mills floated over
Opole and Portland concrete was sent to the
four corners of the world.
www.muzeumwsiopolskiej.pl
The Opole Village Museum is not only a mustsee place on our tourist trail, but also a place
to rest and have fun for people and guests from
the nearby towns. The ethnographical park is
spread on over 10 hectares of land. It leads a
tourist back to the times of wooden cottages
with a barn floor, smithies with bellows, apiaries,
mills, and to the epoch of baking homemade
bread and eating from earthenware pots. It constitutes a few dozen buildings where the “enchanted in wood” history of Silesian country
is preserved – the one which does not exist anymore, but to which a modern man willingly
comes back with nostalgia. That is why cyclic
events that take place in this heritage park are
very successful.
The architectural design of the Opole train station with its unique acoustics, platforms built
on arcs and roofing constructions with
columns in Corinthian style amaze tourists who
come here by train.
A walk around
Bolko Island
www.zoo.opole.pl
The south part of Bolko Island is occupied
by the zoological gardens and the north part
by the city park. There are natural deciduous
forests and picturesque meadows which constitute the natural and cultural premises of the
park. There are protected plants such as:
lesser periwinkle, European Common twayblade (protected species of orchid) and
bear’s garlic. We can also see trees and
shrubs of foreign origin: maple ash, eastern
white pine, honey locus, European black pine
and sweet mock orange. A picturesque
pond, which was created as a result of digging out sand to build levees on the Odra River, is a place of nesting for such water birds
as mallard, Eurasian coot, penduline tit and
common kingfisher. In the evening, Daubenton’s Bat flies over the water.
The Eastern fair, the ecological picnic, the
knight’s fest, the folk art fair, the apiarian fair,
the exhibitions and museum classes attract the
attention of thousands of residents from the region who value this evidence of Opole’s bygone past in harmony with nature.
On the water
www.turawa.pl
Three barrier lakes in the Opole Region – Turawa Lake, Nysa Lake and Otmuchowskie
Lake, are the most popular leisure centres in
the region.
The zoological gardens in Opole are the pride
of the city. After the flood in 1997 they were
renovated and now they keep over 1000 animals (about 130 species). The Opole zoo
From these three lakes, Turawa is the closest to the capital of the region. It is the centre of sailing, water sports, and especially
99
motor-boating and windsurfing. Turawa is a
paradise for anglers.
from Niwki, Bernard Kocot and Edward Barcik
from Chrząstowice.
In 1933-38, in the lower course of the Mała
Panew River, a 13-meter high dam and storage reservoir (with capacity of 108 mln m3)
were built. Local gravel was used to build and
strengthen it. Gravel heaps formed the
Medium, Small and Silver Lakes. Its recreational, leisure and storage functions were
determined during the building process. Numerous resorts situated around the banks
welcome guests for conferences and courses and help in organizing family parties and
occasional events.
In the centre of Turawa, a baroque palace which
in the past belonged to the von Garnier Family can be seen. Now it is the National Children’s
Home.
The areas around the lakes contain nesting places of various species of birds: the
whiskered tern, the citrine wagtail, the common redshank, the common snipe, the little bittern, the northern shoveler and the
garganey. The white-tailed eagle, which
lives in the Stobrawsko-Turawskie Forests
surrounding the lake, comes here for hunting. The reservoir is also a very important
resting and feeding place for migratory
birds. Because of this, it has been recognized as a water bird refuge of European
class. Birds which visit Turawa are: the
marsh sandpiper, the pomarine skua, the
long-tailed skua, the terek sandpiper, the
Eurasian oystercatcher, the red-necked
phalarope, the white-winged tern, the
black-legged kittiwake and the ruff.
The area which is now a lake, 70 years ago
was a lush forest. Currently, the remnants of
the forest can be seen when the water level is
low. Mysterious-looking, deformed trunks
and roots of trees are then revealed. On the way
from Turawa to Rzędowo, near the road, grows
the oldest sessile oak in Poland, 25 meters high
and 5.5 meters in diameter.
In the Middle Ages areas near Turawa were the
prince’s game preserves for the Opole Piasts.
Also today Turawa is the centre of hunting in
the Opole Region. Hunters may find here: roes,
European deer, hares, martens, wild boars and
foxes.
The winding roads around Turawa and Chrząstowice are perfect places for cyclists from all over
Poland. They are famous abroad because of
Olympian cyclists such as Joachim Halupczok
Dinopark
www.dinopark.info.pl
www.krasiejow.pl
www.ozimek.pl
About 225 million years ago, on the area of today’s Krasiejów, there were swampy lands surrounding great lakes. Most likely there was also
an estuary of a big river. This area was covered by equiseta a few meters high, ferns and
the first coniferous plants.
In the strata of loam, researchers from PAN
(Polska Akademia Nauk – Polish Science Academy) and UO (Uniwersytet Opolski - University of Opole) found the graveyard of amphibians and reptiles, including dinosaurs. Herbivorous dinosaurs and aetosaurs once lived
there and were hunted by teratosaurus. Bushes around the lakes were inhabited by the
largest animals of Krasiejów – the Cyclotosaurus intermedium which may be compared with today’s crocodiles. Palaeontologists
also discovered the remains of metoposaurus,
Paleorhinus arenaceus and aetosaurs.
The remains of these bones could have been
preserved in such a number because of the
abundant concentration of alkaline mineral salts
and the vast amounts of accumulating mud.
The oldest dinosaur
in the world
Silesaurus opolensis – “Silesian reptile from
Opole” is the oldest representative of the genealogical line of dinosaurs. Silesaurus from
Krasiejów was over a meter high, had extended
forelegs and a horny beak. It walked on the
back parts of the three toes of its hind legs, similar to today’s birds.
100
In Krasiejów researchers also found a large collection of bones belonging to a reptile from the
Triassic period - aetosaurs. This is the first discovery of such a kind in Poland and the third
in the world. Each season of excavations in
Krasiejów brings new discoveries of bones belonging to unknown species of animals.
(nuphar lutea, nyphaea alba, calla). In the Mała
Panew Valley, there are about 30 species of protected plants: royal fern, Salvinia natans,
marsh club-moss, great sundew, common
sundew, water caltrop, common bearberry,
marsh gentian, Gladiolus imbricatus, and Epipactis palustris.
In 2006 a paleontological pavilion, which is a
part of the planned DINOPARK, was opened.
It was the first investment of the Dinopark Society appointed by Ozimek, Kolonowskie Districts and Marshal Office of Opole Province in
order to completely develop the paleontologic discoveries for scientific, educational and
tourism needs.
Here we can find many species of plants which
are rare and endangered in the voivodeship and
in the whole country: Ophioglossum vulgatum,
Equisetum variegatum, Butomus, marsh andromeda, and Carex lasiocarpa.
The Mała Panew, on which the Turawa reservoir was built a hundred years ago, is an unregulated and in many places impenetrable river. Picturesque meanders, gorges and the boisterous currents of “the Amazon of Opole Region” are rowers’ favourites. Every year in September the Canoe Club “Viking” from Gliwice
organizes a canoe trip along the Mała Panew
on a distance of 41 kilometres: Krupski MłynZawadzkie-Fosowskie. To register call: 0322318432.
The paleontologic hall is a research-exhibition
place. The building is supported on a slope of
the strip mine, and under its glass floor we can
admire the biggest collection of remains of
Mesozoic reptiles and amphibians in Europe.
The Polish Architects Society decided that the
paleontologic hall in Krasiejów was the best architectonic object realized in Poland in 2006.
The hall also won the contest of Cement Producers Society.
Information about canoeing trips and canoe
renting: www.kajnar.com.pl
Almost on its whole length, the Mała Panew
cuts into old postglacial and Triassic formations, creating gorges and chutes in a few
places. On these segments of the Mała
Panew, the river bed becomes narrower, the
height of its edge rises and locally the river splits
creating islands in the middle.
A history of the excavation is also presented
in the local museum of “Stara Szkoła” (“Old
School”).
Mała Panew
Valley
On the territory of Mała Panew Valley, 370 kilometres of bicycle paths were marked out and
labelled.
www.dmp.opolskie.info.pl
Mała Panew Valley with its natural resources
is the most beautiful and the most interesting
river valley in the Opole Voivodeship. Rich in
fauna and flora, it is a perfect area for the development of agritourism. It offers weekend
tours for anglers, mushroom pickers, hikers and
bikers. In the clean waters of Myślina and
Brzyniczka, apart from carp, tench, bream and
crucian, you can also see crayfish.
Following
the iron industry
The most precious treasures of this area such
as bog ore, wood and water were used in the
times of Romans.
The Mała Panew with its oxbows and bends,
numerous tributaries, fishponds, brooks and
drainage ditches constitutes a convenient
habitat for water and rush plant communities
On marshy and rich in ore lands, simple primitive smelting furnaces were formed. Ground
ore was rinsed in wooden troughs. Then, together with charcoal, it was poured into holes
101
in the ground - metallurgical furnaces. The temperature was raised by bellows which insufflated air. Melted iron was pulled out and tooled
with hammers.
Pine forests, sand dunes, fens and wetground forests. When we are wandering
along beautiful meanders, oxbows, avenues,
water-heads, when we are delighted by the intact nature of the Mała Panew Valley, we recall with pride that it was here that the first metallurgical chimneys in Upper Silesia were
smoking.
The iron industry of the Mała Panew flourished
in the 18th century. In 1752, count Norbert
Colonna set up the first primitive smelting furnaces and ore smithy in Żędowice. Then, in
1780, Philipp Colona built a furnace heated with
charcoal. What was left from the old furnaces
and rolling mill is only a trough of the former
metallurgical ditch, fragments of the foundations, bog ore and cinders.
The furnaces of the Mała Panew in Żędowice,
Kolonowskie and Fosowskie gave rise to the
iron works, Zawadzkiwerk which was built in
1836 by an heir to the Collon’s fortune – count
Andreas Renard.
Born in Strzelce Opolskie, Renard was one of
the greatest industrialists in Upper Silesia. A
monument to Andreas Renard can be found
at the cemetery in Strzelce Opolskie.
The route of the annual hike organized by Polish Tourist Country-Lovers’ Society (PTTK)
starts by the Andrew Iron Works (Huta Andrzej)
and leads through old industrial zones, along
metallurgical ditches. It ends at Regolowiec near
Kolonowskie.
Splinters of metallurgical cinders, pieces of bog
ore, which can still be found on the banks of
Brzyniczka, traces of the backing up of water
and the monument tell us that there were iron
works in Regolowiec.
The Metallurgical industry of Mała Panew includes Ozimek. www.ozimek.pl
250 years ago, the “Royal Iron Works Małapanew” was built there. It was there, in 1789
that for the first time on the European continent coke was used instead of charcoal. An
example of artistry in design is the oldest suspension bridge in Europe. It was built by metallurgists from Ozimek according to the engineer Shottelius’ design. An Evangelical
church, built by one of the greatest Prussian
architects - Karl Schinkel shows us that Ozimek was an important town on the map of
Europe. At the cemetery by the church one
may see sparsely preserved cast-iron gravestones from the 19th century cast in the “Małapanew” Iron Works.
On the
Cistercians’ trail
The village Jemielnica belongs to the Strzelce
district. It is situated within the limits of the international Cistercians’ trail and marked out by
the Council of Europe. Post-Cistercian architecture has been preserved until now. The former Cistercians’ abbey in Jemielnica is comprised of a monastery, a church adjacent to it
(with a crypt in the vault) which is a pearl of
the Silesian baroque. It also has storehouses
with gardens.
Here the Cistercians set up fishponds and
bred mainly carp which later was served during Christmas Eve Supper. Ponds in Jemielnica, Gąsiorowice, Centawa and in the forest near Łaziska have been preserved until
now. The Cistercians popularised the threefield cultivation of soil, market gardening,
fruit-farming and beekeeping. They grew hop
and grapevines (because of this there are
grapes in the coat of arms of Strzelce). They
ran mills and iron smithies. Thanks to the
Cistercians, Jemielnica’s plan reminds us of
a small town with squares, streets and interesting alleys.
One of the abbots in the monastery in Jemielnica was Johannes Nucius, born in Goerlitz.
He was a famous Silesian composer of the
baroque epoch who wrote 102 six-part motets
dedicated to the abbot from Lubiąż - Mateusz
Rudolf. He also wrote a musical treatise
called “Musica poetica”.
In Kielcza, not far from Zawadzkie, Wincenty
was born, an abbot of the Dominican
monastery in Racibórz, the author of the hymn
104
to of Lourdes (Grota Lurdzka) built in the
beginning of the century from limestone to
look like the one in Lourdes. There is also
Calvary, located on picturesque hills with
a group of 3 churches and 37 baroque
chapels which form the stations of the
Cross. It was made by an Italian architect
Domenico Signo who settled in Opole. Calvary was founded by Melchior Ferdinand’s
heir, George Adam de Gaschin who used
the visual resemblance of the monastery’s
surroundings to the hills of Jerusalem.
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska was his model.
“Gaude Mater Polonia” and the author of the
first written sentence in the Polish language
“Gorze nam się stało” (“Great misery came
upon us”). (Informally it is said that the first sentence was written in the Book of Henryków
“Dać, ać ja pobruczę, a ty poczywaj” which
means “Let me, I shall grind, and you take a
rest”).
On the top of the
holy mountain
The visit of John Paul II on 21st June 1983
was a great event in the history of Saint
Anne’s Mountain. The surroundings of St.
Anne’s Mountain are called the “Silesian
Switzerland”. It is because nature joined history and faith and gave that place the best
offering: picturesque hills divided by valleys
and clothed in beech forest, geological peculiarities, karstic springs, grottos, tuff volcanic cones, rare plants and charming cherry alleys. In 2004, St. Anne’s Mountain with
its cultural and natural landscape was recognized as a historical monument. At the
same time, attempts were made to register
it as a World Heritage Site of UNESCO.
www.swanna.pl
No one knows, where this statue is from.
This is a primitive linden sculpture, one of
the oldest in Silesia, 66 centimetres high,
coloured in green and red. In her left hand,
Saint Anne holds her daughter, the Blessed
Virgin Mary, in her right one, her grandson
Jesus Christ.
St. Anne’s Mountain, or in the language of local Germans - Sankt Annaberg, is a special
place on the map of Opole Silesia. On the extinct volcano, known in Middle Ages as Saint
George’s Mountain, there is a famous UpperSilesian sanctuary. The sanctuary, which is in
the care of Franciscan monks, hides a real
treasure. This is a priceless linden statue of
Saint Anne Samotrzecia from the 15th century which contains relics of the saint. During the
church fair in July, thousands of tourists
have been coming here for 500 years to sing
their patron: “Niech się ze mną co chce
dzieje. W Tobie, św. Anno, mam nadzieję”. (“Let
it be with me, what really must, in you Anna
I have hope and trust”). Franciscan Ministry
of the Young and Vocation operates in a Pilgrim House. Cycles of meetings and retreats,
workshops addresses to the young are organized there.
Basalt, karst
and limestone
amphitheater
Five million years ago the earth of these areas was shaking. At the same time when the
Alps were born, here layers of shell limestone
and Cenomanian sandstone were cracking
and basalt magma was emerging from the
cracks and faults.
The highest point of the Chełm Massif is the
volcanic hill, St. Anne’s Mountain (400 m above
sea level). Its core is a basalt pillar which once
was a stream of magma. It came out of the volcanic crater which is probably situated nearby St. Anne’s basilica. The volcano was active twice.
The holiness of this place is increased not
only because of the cult of the Upper-Silesians’ patron, but also since there are very
important sacral monuments. There are, for
example, a basilica, a Franciscan monks’
monastery founded by count Melchior
Ferdinand Gaszyna from Żyrowa, surrounded by cloisters Paradise Square (Rajski Plac). We can also find here the Grot-
Near St. Anne’s Mountain, there are many inactive stone pits. In one of them, by the road
105
to Leśnica, there is the only geological reserve
in Opole Silesia “St. Anne’s Mountain”
(“Góra Św. Anny”). There is also a crater of
an extinct volcano and visible uncovered sedimentary and effusion rocks as well as
basalt pillars 30 centimetres thick. It was the
hot lava which turned greenish sandstone into
red. A tuff volcanic cone is a remnant of the
eruption. The biggest jasper nodule in
Poland (2 meters high) is the evidence of
post-volcanic reactions of hot hydrothermal
solution.
In Triassic limestone, a small cave and a
karstic crater filled with mud were formed.
There are fossils of sponges, clams, brachiopods and sea lilies. Moreover, there is
also a site of protected smooth carline and
Common Rock-rose with its yellow flowers which are rare in Opole Silesia.
In rocky places, a constrictor – smooth
snake warms itself. Right under the
precipice, we will see an amphitheatre
sculpted in rock - the only one in Europe.
It was built in the 1930’s in an inactive limestone pit and it imitates ancient patterns.
Above it, there is a rotunda – a mausoleum
for the German insurgents who died in battle around St. Anne’s Mountain during the
Third Silesian Uprising. After the war in
1955, the rotunda was replaced by the
monument of the Insurgent Deed (Czynu
Powstańczego) designed by Xawery
Dunikowski.
Ligota Dolna: Nearby there is a pre-war airport, a limestone pit and an old limekiln
with a bas-relief of Ikar. In these areas,
there has been established a strict reserve
of thermophilic plants such as cut-leaved
germander, dwarf Alpine onion and white
stonecrop. There have been recorded almost 600 species of butterflies, which is
over half of all the species in Silesia. Also
nearby has been discovered a very rare in
Poland linum austriacum.
Czarnocin is a picturesque place situated in the
valley of the Łącka Woda stream, in one of the
most beautiful areas of the St. Anne’s Mountain Scenic Park. Slopes of the valley are overgrown with beech forests. A great majority of
these forests is protected as the nature reserves
“Boże Oko” (God’s Eye) and “Grafik”.
Saint Jack’s
Sanctuary
and Sebastianeum
Silesiacum
www.kamienslaski.pl
www.silesiacum.pl
One should start exploring Kamień Śląski by
visiting a palace – the place of birth of Saint
Jack from the Odrowąż family.
In 1990 the Diocesan Curia in Opole bought
this ruined palace with a park. Now it has been
restored and serves the residents of the region
as the Cultural and Science Centre of the Faculty of Theology at Opole University. The
Chapel of Saint Jack, according to a legend,
was a chamber where in 1183 Saint Jack was
born. In the interior there is a rococo altar with
statues of Saint Jack, Blessed Bronisława and
Blessed Czesław. Pilgrims from all over the region come to the sanctuary, especially for the
church fete in August.
In the Middle Ages Saint Jack was called “The
light from Silesia” because thanks to him Dominican monasteries in Cracow, Sandomierz,
Kamień, Płock, Gdańsk and Wrocław were set
up. He is the only Pole whose statue stands
on the Roman colonnade surrounding Saint Peter's Square in the Vatican.
By the palace, in the restored interiors of an old
coach house, stables and a barn, there is Sebastianeum Silesiacum, Complex of Tourism,
Recreation and Rehabilitation of “Caritas”
Diocese of Opole.
“In water there is health”, said Sebastian
Kneipp, a Bavarian priest. The medical properties of Kneipp’s therapy are known to archbishop Alfons Nossol who has been treated in
the Bavarian Bad Wörishoffen for 30 years now.
It was he who decided to set up a similar resort in Kamień Śląski. This modern facility is
the only one in Poland of its kind. The sanatorium specializes in hydrotherapy according
to the tenets of the priest Sebastian Kneipp. It
uses the natural resources of Oligocene water and its own herb cultivation.
108
Moszna
„Silesian
Disneyland”
the richest industrialist in Upper Silesia
owned a few dozen land properties. His oldest son Franz Hubert, district governor of
Prudnik, became the heir to this amassed fortune. We owe him the current image of the
palace and park in Moszna. Wilhelm II
stayed there twice. A walk around this
eclectic building is a brilliant lesson in architecture. Baroque, neo-Gothic and neo-Renaissance facades decorate numerous basreliefs showing Upper-Silesian work ethos,
plants and hunting.
www.moszna.pl
www.moszna-zamek.pl
www.strzeleczki.pl
A picturesque and mysterious place. When
there is windy and stormy weather, it may
seem creepy like a medieval castle which is
haunted.
The main road of the park is a lane. On both
sides of it there are canals from the 19th century, built in Dutch and French styles, as well
as ponds once full of boats. In the park, you
will be enchanted by rhododendrons, azaleas, Canada hemlock, 200-year-old lindens, 300-year-old pedunculate oaks and
120-year-old Eastern white pines.
Built at the turn of 19th and 20th centuries, the
mansion belonging to Franz von ThieleWinckler, the richest industrial potentate
from Miechowice, invokes associations with
the atmosphere from Disney’s fairytales.
This castle of 65 thousand cubic meters has
as many chambers as there are days in a year
– 365. It also has 99 towers symbolizing the
number of land properties of the richest Upper-Silesian of the bygone era.
Since the 1970’s, the castle has been
known in Poland as a place for treating neurosis and depression.
It is a tradition that every year at the Moszna Castle, spring concerts of classical music called the “Musical Holiday of Blooming
Azalea”, are organized.
Franz Winkler was a miner from Tarnowskie
Góry. He was the first to start building his
family’s fortune. In 1833 he married Marry,
who was a dozen or so years older than him.
Thanks to the miner’s widow who had a mine
in Miechowice, Franz took possession of seven Upper-Silesian steel works, eight manganese mines, a few dozen coal mines and
six land properties. Seven years later, this enterprising miner’s potentate, due to his hard
work and service to the country, received
knighthood with the coat of arms from
Frederick William IV, King of Prussia.
The concerts which are organized on a terrace, serve as music therapy as well as an
important cultural project in the region.
However, they sound best in the acoustically
perfect chapel.
In 1948 in Moszna, a stud farm was established which breeds English Thoroughbreds
and half-bred horses. Horses bred in Moszna win laurels in the world competitions in
fence jumping.
Valeska became the heiress of the great
Wincklers’ fortune. Hubert Gustav von Thiele
became another trustee of the Upper-Silesian
properties who married Valeska in 1854.
With the Odra
current
Famous for charity “Mutter Eva” was one of
the seven children from the Thiele-Winckler
marriage. Historians describe her as one of
the most prominent women in 19th century
Europe.
www.kedzierzynkozle.pl
www.krapkowice.pl
www.jeziorosrebrne.pl
In 1863, Hubert purchased Kujawy and in
1866 he obtained Moszna where there was
a baroque hunting palace. In his twilight years,
For centuries, the life of the residents living in
surrounding villages has been determined by
109
the Odra current. People were also forced to
get across the river. On the other bank there was
an uncle to visit, a beloved to spend time with,
a friend to drink with or work to do in a nearby coking plant.
The ferry in Zdzieszowice has been getting
people, animals and vehicles from one bank
of the river to the other for over seven centuries. An attraction of this area is a
seagoing ship from Florida. It takes tourists
from Januszkowice to a historic sluice in
Koźle. The Odra, seen from the cruise, gives
tourists breathtaking views of natural attractions.
Silver Lake in Januszkowice is a place of
relaxation and recreation. House owners offer not only motorboats, motor scooters and
water skis, but also powered hang gliders
and parachutes.
All ponds and gravel pits are a real paradise for anglers. In Kędzierzyn-Koźle one
should see relics of the Prussian fortress
and in Koźle there are also places worth
seeing. In the opening of the Gliwicki
Channel to the Odra River there is one of
the most important ports of inland navigation in Poland – the monument of UpperSilesian hydraulic engineering.
Keep: The Museum of Kozielska Land Society.
You should visit the old keep with a private
museum of the paper industry in Krapkowice. Nearby, there is Rogów Opolski and
a castle which is in the care of the Provincial Public Library in Opole.
Here there is a real storehouse of priceless
parchment manuscripts, old prints, maps and
graphics. Among them there are: “Kronika
Śląska” (“The Silesian Chronicle”) by Jacob
Schickfus (1625), “Mszał Wrocławski”
(“Wrocławski Missal”) (1519) and a wood
engraved map of Silesia from 1545 made by
Sebastian Ümster.
One may visit these treasures in Rogów
every day, even during holidays from 9 a.m.
to dusk. To read the old prints and to use
a reading room in the castle, you should
make arrangements in advance by calling:
077-4672108.
Journey into
”Silesian Rome”
www.nysa.pl
Nysa is situated on the crossroads of historical trade paths from Silesia to the Czech Republic and from Cracov to Wrocław. For almost
500 years it was chosen by bishops of
Wrocław for the capitol of Nysa Dutchy and
apart from Wrocław was most wealthy town
of Silesia.
Among many highlights of a sightseeing tour
there are Bishop’s Palace that was erected for
over 100 years, north-Renaissance House of
City Scale, nicely crafted baroque “Beautiful
Well”, marble water-works of Tryton (designed as the replica of Fontana del Tritone by
Gian Lorenzo Bernini) and of European class
Collegium Carolinum that was built by Karol
Habsburg. The first rector of Collegium Carolinum was Christoph Scheiner – a mathematician and astronomer who discovered
sun–spots.
Nysa is compared to Rome mostly because
of not less than 12 churches situated within
its area. Situated in the centre of the city there
is a magnificent 15th century St. Jacob and
Agnes church with nicely preserved lateGothic three-volet main altar.
Apart from a regiment church in Wrocław, we
have here not only the most valuable collection of grave sculpture but also 19 chapels incorporating elements of Renaissance or Gothic with wall-paintings of Antoni Scheffler.
In 2007 in Cathedral of Nysa, there was conveyed a beatification of Maria Merkert –
“Silesian Samaritan” a founder of the Elizabeth
order. Inside the church, there is a sarcophagus of Maria Merkert and some relics.
In the vicinity of the cathedral, there is situated a belfry whose construction was started as
early as in 1474. Inside the belfry, we have a
St. Jacob treasury with the unique collection
of jewellery made by Nysa craftsmen.
St. Peter and Paul church has been preserved almost to its original stand and is
112
not before 16th June of 1807 that capitulation treaty was signed. Nysa Fortress was
conquered.
often described as “a pearl of Silesian
baroque”. Outstanding painting decoration
by Feliks and Thomas Scheffler is of
unique European class.
Each year at the end of July – to commemorate those days, there are organized
“Nysa Fortress Days” with a historical spectacle including soldiers from all over Europe.
This spectacle is supposed to remind the
atmosphere of the fight that took place 200
years ago.
In Nysa Museum situated inside the 17th century Bishop’s Palace, there are presented 200
canvas of Flemish, Italian and German painters
including the most impressive “Judith with the
head of Holofernes” from Lucas Cranach The
Older workshop.
Beautiful porcelain, furniture and other products by local craftsmen complete this interesting exhibition.
Anno Domini 1807 is a date of the battle,
and at the same time a symbol commemorating the moment when Polish legionaries sang “Dąbrowski Mazurek” while approaching Nysa.
Visiting Nysa you simply must have a closer look at those fortifications to feel their
atmosphere, listen to the legends, find a
rusty cannon-ball hidden in the darkness
of the casemates.
Fortress of Nysa
Nysa – a city of 800-year tradition, is a genuine treasury for historians and a true paradise for adventure seekers. One of the
biggest highlights for tourists is the fortifications surrounding the city. This is a very
well preserved example of new-era defence
installation on a low-land area.
In Bishop’s
and Humboldt
Castle
The fortifications are a mystery, a challenge,
a partially buried area of undiscovered
treasury that attract attention of all adventure seekers.
www.otmuchow.pl
In the early medieval times there were - according to archaeologist estimates - around 175
strongholds within Opole region. One of the
most important ones was Otmuchów – a
castellany of Wrocław bishops.
In 1742, Nysa along with the whole Silesia came under the Prussian reign. Fryderyk
Hohenzollern II made an advantage of the
strategic situation of the city with its magnificent for tifications and transformed
“Silesian Rome” into one of the mightiest
fortresses in Europe. Building the stronghold was charged to general Cornelius von
Wallrave.
This castle hill was conquered by Tatars,
Heryk Probus troops, Hussites and Swedes.
Its defence character is nicely represented in the building style – we have a massive block with small windows and a solid turret. This Piast castellany was rebuilt
in 15 th century by Bishop Roth who
changed its look adding the elements of
neo-Gothic and Renaissance styles. In
the first half of 19th century it was the seat
of a famous Haumboldt family.
In the period of 1743-1758 a fortification
called Prussia was built. It was based on
the scheme of a five-arm star and reinforced by defence rings with bastions.
In February 1807 the war between Prussia
and France began. This clash caused the
Napoleon-coalition army led by general Dominic Vandamme to approach Nysa fortifications area. The city siege lasted for 114
days. The defence operation was led by
general Johann Phillip von Weger and it was
Baron Wilhelm – a philosopher, reformer of
Prussian educational system and cofounder of Berlin University, received the
castle as a gift from King of Prussia Fryderik
113
Willhelm III. The other brother – Alexander
– a naturalist and geographer, founded a
beautiful park near the castle and was later named by Goethe “a conqueror of the
world”. During many exploring journeys
throughout not only Europe but also the
Asian part of Russia, middle and south
America, Alexander von Humboldt executed
many anthropological and geographical researches. His main research-work called
“Universe” is recognized as a most comprehensive book concerning nature matters that was released in those times. In
1800 starting from Caracas – a capitol of
Venezuela, Humboldt launched his famous journey to the Orinoco which made
it possible to discover water connections
between the Orinoco and the Amazon.
The big sightseeing attraction in the castle are the only horse-steps from 1638, 17th
century ceilings, and many bricked up
mysterious crossings.
On the court-yard there is a well as deep
as the height of the hill that still may be hiding some bishop’s treasures. In the castle there are also a hotel and a restaurant.
In July Otmuchów becomes one of the
most colourful and smelling cities in
Opole region because of traditional “Summer of flowers” attracting not only best
florists but also thousands of tourists
from all over country. Situated right in the
centre of the city there is a genuine masterpiece of baroque architecture – St.
Nicolaus church. This two-tower basilica was built in 17th century by architects
from Vienna that were influenced by the
style of churches in Prague. Inside this
impressively decorated church you may
admire works of Carl Dankwar t and
paintings of “Silesian Rembrandt” –
Michael Willman.
The most important work – “St. Nicolaus protecting castaways” is exposed in the main
altar. During the reign of bishop Jacob
Salezy in Otmuchów there was built a Renaissance town hall. It has nice sgraffito decoration and 16th century sun clock usually
known as Paracelsus clock to commemorate
famous Swiss doctor who allegedly saved the
city from pestilence.
Riviera of Nysa
and Silesian Sea
Riviera of Nysa – that is a name of a quite close
situated lake – a place of family rest and recreation. For ones a site of social turmoil, for others a peaceful and romantic enclave.
Nysa lake situated within a preserved area
of Otmuchów – Nysa district of nature is
ready to welcome fans of sailing and fishing.
Clean water is a home for trout, lake-trout and
loaches. The most comfortable place to stay
for a few days, to rest, or try some specialties of traditional cuisine is Nysa Recreational
Centre. It is highly recommended to visit the
area by bike. In Otmuchów we find an “impressive” menu of traditional meals not
only in the centre of the city but also in the
castle restaurant.
When we are already admiring the beauty of
“Silesian Sea”, it is worth to visit Ściborz. It is
there in old fishermen boat moored by Otmuchów lake shore that we can try this perfectly prepared fish that would complete our
all-day journey.
Otmuchów lake is the first big-area storage
reservoir in the region. It was built in
1932 and is of 1976 hectares area. In more
muddy parts of the lake we have very rare
plants and many of them have been added
to the “Red book of plants existing in Opole
region”. In the park situated in the vicinity
of the lake there is a colony of herons with
over 250 heronries. The lake is a very important place for many species of birds to
survive the winter. When lucky enough, you
can see here golden plovers, tattlers and
skuas.
Wall-paintings,
marbles
and Koperniki
Village of Siestrzechowice near Nysa:
Building a palace here is strictly connected with the reign of bishop Andreas von
114
Koperniki – a Copernicus line comes from
here. Explorers from Poland, Germany
and the Czech Republic are convinced of
Silesian origin of the famous astronomer.
His ancestors came from Koperniki – a village whose inhabitants mostly earned a living by crafting cuprum.
Jerin who administered Nysa Dutchy for
some time. Bishop Jerin bought some
grounds for his nephew in 1592. A residency was planned on the basis of a big
rectangle with typical Renaissance courtyard surrounded with galleries.
The main entry was decorated with the
Jerin’s crest: griffons as a symbol of
might and connection of human and God’s
features. In the beginning of 20th century
during a renovation of the castle’s chapel,
there were discovered some unique wallpaintings with the crests of Nysa Dutchy
clerks. On eleven fields situated on the ceiling there were 65 crests and 14 more were
found on the south wall. All of them had full
description of the name and function of the
clerk.
In Łambinowice there is a Museum of Martyrdom and Prisoners of War Battle – a true
testimony of gloomy war history that left
its aftermath also here in Opole Silesia.
Carcasonne
walls
www.paczkow.pl
Those wall-paintings come from times of
judge Andreas von Jerin administration.
They were painted between 1594 (1596)
and the beginning of 17th century.
Here you can find crests of almost all outstanding nobleman’s houses from Upper
and Lower Silesia.
Paczków is often named a Silesian Carcasonne which can be explained in a pretty reasonable way when you admire
this medieval ring of walls with 19 towers and four magnificent tower-gates. It
is wor th mentioning that apar t from
Paczków there is no other place in
Poland with so impressively preserved
wall construction.
Ages ago, there were four wells: two in the
middle of the area and two outside of it. Water from Grunau was of high healthy quality. The palace is nowadays a private
property and this “healthy” water waits for
better times.
When you walk around, you can admire almost complete construction of defence
walls with numerous small towers that
were built in 1350. This strip of brick reinforcements is 1200m long and of 9m
height.
Not far away from Sławniowice – a small
town situated in Nysa area, there is a marble ledge – one of the biggest in Poland
and also very precious in Europe. Exploitation of marbles here is of 700-year
tradition. In 1314 this marble was used
while crafting a tombstone for Prince Hermann and you can still admire it in Kępnica near Nysa.
The next sightseeing highlights are a town
hall with its 45 metres Renaissance tower and a Gothic church of St. John Evangelist that was built not only as a sacrum
place but also as a defence building before
Turkish invasion.
In 16th and 17th centuries, there was developed a substantial masonry centre in
Sławniowice area. At present 10 colour
types of marble are mined in the place.
The Gas Industry Museum in Paczków is
the only one in Poland and offers a European class collection of gas-meters and all
other gas equipment.
Marble from Sławniowice was used for decoration of Seym building, Minister Council
Office, Castle in Copenhagen or General
Wladysław Sikorski’s tombstone in Cracow’s Wawel.
All sinners living in Paczków area are reminded of good behaviour by old wayside
crosses – the witnesses of ruthless medieval law that were situated by the roads
to discipline the next generations.
115
In Niemodlin
Dutchy
www.niemodlin.pl
13th century. On the trade path from Silesia to
Prague, between swamps and the Ścinawa river, hidden in the woods there is a trade
colony – Niemodlin. In historical documents
from 1249 there is a name Yalkenbrech, but
from 1283 Niemodlin is a town located on German law regulations and its name is Falkenberg (until 1945).
14th century – a castle in Falkenberg is a seat
of Opole Dutchy emperor – Bolko I. Bolko II built
in the city a Gothic defence castle with a moat.
In 15th century, there were rules of Bernhard
– the youngest son of Bolko III. He was a Prince
of Niemodlin, Opole and Strzelce. The end of
independent Niemodlin Dutchy came in 1460
when it became a part of Opole Dutchy. The
Gothic castle was burnt out as was the city in
1552.
16th century marks Czech reign: Hohenzollern
and Habsburg line. The destroyed castle
came under administration of earl von Logau.
From 1572 it was taken on lease by Kaspar von
Puckler who eventually (after 9 years) bought
it with the whole city area from Emperor Rudolf
II. In the period of 1581-1591, the destroyed
Piast’s castle was renovated.
Around 1610 – the fourth wing with the
chapel and choir place were built. This neo-Renaissance building with its magnificent bastions
that we can admire to this day is indebted to
Promnitz family. In January of 1779 all goods
of Niemodlin became the property of the Moravian Praschma family.
During 18th century, a baroque rebuilding of the
castle was carried out by earl Jan II Nepomuk.
The last administrator of Niemodlin (until
1945) was earl Fryderik Leopold von
Praschma.
Lipno: A magnificent park with unique examples of trees and plants from China, Japan, Caucasus, Southern Europe and Northern America is a remnant of the English park from late
18th century that was founded by earl Jan Nepomucen Carl Praschma. In 1782 there were
planted first junipers and magnolias later relocated to the other European gardens. The
most impressive plants of the garden are azaleas, pinster flowers, camellias, rhododendrons
and tulip trees.
A nicely marked educational walking path
makes its way through rare examples of
yews, cypresses, liquidambars. In the park area
there are also ponds called “Zofia”, “Hubertus”
and “Crane’s swamp”.
Idyllic way,
Italian way
www.fraczkow.pl
In 18th century a valuable area and many properties were in hands of the Czech Gilgengeimb family line who decided to build a baroque
palace in Frączków. In 1863 the village was
bought by earl Alexander von Francken-Sierstorpff – a founder of the English park admired
to these days. At the end of 19th century, a building was substantially enriched with neoGothic elements by his son Alexander.
A politician and traveller being inspired by Berlin
school of architecture, he built in Frączków a
picturesque residency of European class.
This rectangle, neo-baroque building was
modernized and numerous towers, terraces,
balustrades and a splendid French garden were
added.
In the period of 1930-1939 the palace in
Frączków was thoroughly rebuilt after the fire
that had destroyed earlier its majesty. Nowadays it no longer reminds of its original
shape.
After the main rebuilding and modernization
between 1970-1980 that was carried out owing to national funds, the palace in Frączków
regained its previous charm. Inside the building there are nicely preserved Corinthian
columns, a mosaic floor, plafons, coffered
ceilings, tile fire-places and a magnificent ballroom. Apart from an old coach-house, we
also find in the near surroundings a splendid
118
19th century English garden with numerous
channels, pond and walking paths.
At Oppersdorff’s
A hotel and restaurant are inside the palace.
We can taste here a range of delicious meals
from a traditional Italian menu. Sea fish is delivered from Italy and owners of the palace grow
fruit and vegetables, make butter and cheese,
live in an old traditional rural way.
Specialties are: traditional house wine, limoncello, nut liqueur prepared by the house-master – Giuseppe.
www.glogowek.pl
Art Cup
– horse riding
with the stars
www.kjlewada.pl
Famous people in the world of film, sport and
business like these places: old palaces, beautiful parks, atmosphere of slight degeneration,
such a mixture generates great ideas.
Taking into account all palaces of Opole region
that found responsible new owners in the recent years, there must be mentioned a palace
in Zakrzów near Kędzierzyn Koźle. A brilliant
idea of how to regain its past magnificence had
Andrzej Sałacki – 12 times a medallist of Poland
Championship and a national horse-riding instructor. A world-class trainer, one of the best
TV presenters – Katarzyna Dowbor, friendly local autonomy and unique place. People’s
Horse-Riding Club “Lewada” wins the national
classification and reaches a status of Olympic
Horse-Riding Centre. Each August in Zakrzów an “Art Cup” – Championship of Stars
in Horse-Riding is held.
Similarly to the palace in Zakrzów, also Polska Cerekiew became few years ago a genuine attraction for famous people of music,
sport, film and television. Ruins of once
magnificent architecture masterpiece are a
perfect place to organize concerts or theatre performances. Theatre events are directed by Adam Hanuszkiewicz, musical performances include concerts of a world-class
violinist Konstanty Andrzej Kulka and Agnieszka Duczmal.
Głogówek. This town located on Magdeburg
law regulations was administrated by princes
of Opole and Niemodlin, the Habsburg family members and the Queen of Hungary. The city
splendour came in 16th century under the reign
of the Oppersdorff line.
It was within those Renaissance castle’s
walls that during the Swedish flood we had here
a capitol of Poland for a few weeks. In 1655,
the Oppersdorff’s residency was a shelter for
King Jan Kazimierz and his family.
In rooms of that castle Ludwig van Beethoven
composed some of his music and dedicated
4th symphony B-Dur to the host of the castle
– Franciszek Joachim Oppersdorf. Nowadays the castle, being a private property, is renovated.
In St. Bartłomiej’s church we can admire a
magnificent alabaster tombstone of Jan Jerzy
Oppersdorf from 1634 that was crafted by an
Italian artist Sebastian Sala.
This sanctuary is a genuine treasure of Silesian baroque style. It is recommended to visit Głogówek in autumn when Silesian Festival
of Beethoven is organized.
House of Our Lady Of Loretto was founded
by earl Jerzy III Oppersdorff who visited Loretto twice and reconstructed its original shape
on the basis of self-made sketches. The
house was built as a separate chapel and situated in the vicinity of the Franciscan church.
In 1636 earl von Oppersdorf enlarged the
sanctuary and House of Our Lady Of Loretto was surrounded by a bigger chapel adjacent to the nave from the north side. The
present look of the house is a work of Sebastini from around 1780.
Jan Cybis – an outstanding Polish colourist,
professor of ASP (Academy of Fine Arts) in
Warsaw, born in 1897 in Wróblin near
Głogówek. The biggest collection of his works
is exposed in Opole Silesia Museum. A highly acclaimed publicist Rafał Urban was also
born in Głogówek.
119
King’s Academy
and recollections
of faience
www.proszkow.pl
A factory of faience (so called fake porcelain)
in Prószków was founded by earl Leopold von
Proskau in 1763 and was inspired by the
Prussian King Fryderyk The Great. The years
of best prosperity came for the factory after
1771 when a strict ban to import porcelain out
of Silesia was implemented. The faience production was stopped in 1853 when there was
more and more real porcelain on the market.
Roses, pinks and peacocks stand for Prószków
faience style.
It is recommended to stay in Prószków in order to visit a local Arboretum (1866-67).
Nowadays this beautiful park covers the area
of 19 hectares and we can admire here,
among others, trees from China, Japan, Manguria and different parts of Europe. We
have here around 46 species of oak, grey nut
tree, magnolias, plane trees and beeches. The
biggest attraction is however a fossil – a tree
of 2mln years of age. The park is a remembrance of King’s Agriculture Academy that
was founded in 1847 by the government of
Prussia. It was the first academy of that sort
in Europe. It was liquidated in 1881 and replaced by the King’s Institute of Pomology
educating gardeners and fruit-growers. It is
worth one’s while to visit a local park-museum and see all those old garden books or
admire an impressive collection of geological remnants.
There are spreading around Prószków many
protected forest areas like “Jaśkowice”, “Deer’s
court” and “Przysiecz” where we also have a
picturesque pond.
Nowa Kuźnia: it is here that we have one of the
most beautiful protected water areas in Poland
called “Pond of Nowa Kuźnia”. It was founded in 1957 in order to protect some of the water plants like white water-lily, aldrovanda, floating moss or yellow nuphar. There are confirmed
around 135 species of water birds in the pond’s
area.
Palace
on the water
Opole region is a genuine area of castles and
palaces. In this smallest district of Poland
there are around 200 of those magnificent
relics of old baroque and Renaissance architecture. Not all of them have been preserved to these days, many objects were destroyed by time passing or ended their history after fierce wars.
The most romantic and richly decorated remnants of once magnificent palace are situated in Kopice near Grodków.
The residency in Kopice used to be called a
“palace on the water” because of many
ponds surrounding the village. In the area there
was also situated one of the biggest parks of
19th century in Europe – a masterpiece of King’s
garden administrator – Wihelm Hempel who
left Sanssousi for Kopice. There were some
1342 sculptures in the park, many of them of
natural human or animal size, made by Carl
Kern.
The rest of the Kopice park highlights were an
orangery, a winter garden, a palm house, and
a rose-garden that attracted not only students
but also masters of gardening from all over Europe. Flowers planted in the glass-houses in
Chróścina were sent from an airport in Old
Grodków to the King’s tables in Berlin.
One of the most outstanding masters of European art of building – Carl Ludecke, made
Kopice palace a unique masterpiece of architecture. Neo-Gothic and classicism style
were enriched by French and Netherlandish
Renaissance and finally completed by elements of the English Tudor style. “Silesian Cinderella” – Johanna Gryczik von SchombergGodulla and her husband Hans Ulrich von
Schaffgotsch were living in the palace and for
years took care of its condition. Nowadays
the palace and its park are a private property. For some scary and gloomy ruins of magnificent architecture monument, for others romantic and breath-taking symbol of the
past. Kopice is something of a “fashion”, a
place you must see and feel its unique atmosphere.
120
For years these ruins have attracted into
Grodków area hundreds of tourists, photographers and film-makers.
cialties and famous Czech beer. It is recommended to visit a local museum of
goldsmithing and nicely restored Mariahilf
sanctuary.
Bishop’s Hill
Lipove Laznie: a place where Vincenz Priessnitz as the first in the world started to cure diseases using water (so is the name of shower – in Polish: prysznic).
There are the Opawskie Mountains spreading south of Opole region with their highest peak called Bishop’s Hill (890m above
sea level) from which you can grasp a phenomenal panorama of Polish and Czech
side of the border. This is the most precious
part of the region. One is able to find here
numerous bike and walking tracks, nicely equipped hotels, ski-lifts, swimming
pools, trout fishery, modern conference
centres and rehabilitation sites.
Bishop’s Hill is a highest peak of the
Opawskie Mountains and is located in the
central par t of the Landscape Park
“Opawskie Mountains”. The massif of
Bishop’s Hill is based upon sedimentary
rocks of Devonian era when the sea made
its way to the area. Mostly common rocks
are phyllite slate ready for covering the
roofs. After excavation, there were left many
picturesque drifts i.e. Gwarkowa Perć,
Sea eye, Hell. In Gwarkowa Perć we find a
35-meter long old metal ladder on one of
the walls.
On the mountain-sides of Bihsop’s Hill we
have mostly natural beech forests and human-planted spruce forests spreading especially in the upper areas of the hill. When
wandering onto the top, we encounter
many protected species of plants and animals (orchid, plant of the orchid family, nematocyst, phantom orchids). On the top of
Bishop’s Hill you may see one of the
most endangered species in the area – buttercup of plane tree-leaves.
Comfortable accommodation:
Mountain House of Tourists
tel. 077 4397583
www.kopabiskupia.republika.pl
From the top of Bishop’s Hill we have pretty short and very nice down-walking to Zlate
Hory (Golden Mountains) in the Czech Republic with delicious traditional cuisine spe-
Ski fans will be welcome to Bohemaland – a
modern ski centre situated in the vicinity or in
the surrounding mountain villages: Ramzova,
Cervonohorske Sedlo and Praded. During
winter school-break there are regular rail connections Nysa – Ramzova.
www.bohemaland.cz
Golden
Mountains
The first documented data concerning excavating gold in the Opawskie Mountains comes
from 13th century when bishops of Wrocław
brought into the region some miners from
Frankony and Turyngia – regions already famous for gold-excavation. It is most likely that
it was them who after close exploration of
streams: Biala Głuchołaska, Golden stream and
Roe-deer stream, discovered gold in the
area. The biggest concentration of goldmines was situated in Zlate Hory district on
the Czech side of the border. In 1590 and 1591
there were found two quartzite with gold bits
of 1.388kg and 1.783kg weight. They were
handed as a gift to emperor Rudolf the II and
precise sketches of them you can find in the
Zlate Hory museum. For over 250 years of excavation there were mined around 2,800kg of
gold in the region. Nowadays it is worth one’s
while to set out for a 3-hour walk along “Golden mines” track that starts in Gluchołazy by
Amorek water-works .
One is able to encounter many relics of goldexcavation these days: around 80 shafts, many
gold-excavation areas, adits. There are some
places where gold-excavation areas are of their
original shape in particular those uncovered by
the big flood in 1997. You can find 1mm thick
gold bites here.
121
There are plans to set up some international educational tourist track along the oldest
15th century “Three Kings” adit whose building was ordered by emperor Rudolf II, bishop Baltazar Promnitz and prince George II.
In those old drifts we find rare species of endangered bats or a genuine rarity in this part
of the region – the nighty Natterer bat.
One of the most valuable relics of hydro-technical buildings in Opole Silesia is a 15-metres dam built on the Roe-deer stream.
Excursion
for health
www.glucholazy.pl
Healthy features of Głuchołazy area along
with low-mineralised water sources around
Park Hill were discovered by Jesuits who
were brought into the region in 1623 by the
prince of Austria and Wrocław bishop
Carl.
Characteristic micro-climate value of the region comes from the efficient protection from
strong winds, nicely balanced temperature,
lack of sudden pressure or humidity changes
and, most of all, the air smelling of ethereal and resinous oils.
In 1877 Carl Juppe founded in Głuchołazy the
first hydrotherapeutic centre called “Juppenbad”. In many sanatoriums and watercuring houses the most popular method was
the one developed by priest Sebastian
Kneipp. The flow of new patients was especially visible after 1875 when MoravianSilesian railway connecting Gluchołazy with
Nysa, Opava and Vienna was built. It was
quite common to offer herbal baths in decoction of oat straw, sand baths or baths on
heated stones.
Some new cure in hydrotherapeutic sanatoriums were baths in decoction of pine litter of conifer needles or wood–pulp baths.
In the historical building of Health Resort there
is nowadays a “Caritas” sanatorium.
www.caritas.glucholazy.pl
Jarnołtówek – a picturesque city situated
at the foot of Bishop’s Hill guarantees each
year more and more versatile tourist offer
in terms of rehabilitation and recreation.
The biggest tourist hotels are “Potok”,
“Ziemowit” and “Max”. In Jarnołtówek,
Moszczanka and Pokrzywna we find not
only trout fisheries but also many frizzle
pubs where we can taste local menu full of
trout served in different ways. The tourist
offer is completed by horse riding (Łąka
Prudnicka) and many hotels or small family inns with traditional cuisine.
www.jarnoltowek.pl
We recommend: “Pod Kopą” restaurant in
Jarnołtówek centre with tasty Italian specialties including traditional ham “a la Parma” or
delicious tomato paste.
In Pokrzywna there are remains of a ski-jump
built in 1931 by one Norwegian living then in
Prudnik. In 1947 we had ski-jumping contests
still organized on this object.
Prudnik: Euroregion “Pradziad” seat
www.europradziad.pl
In the monastery in Prudnik, cardinal Stefan
Wyszyński was interned and nowadays you
can still visit originally preserved cell he was
kept in. In the vicinity of a cloister there is a most
beautiful human grotto in Opole region made
of tuff transported to the place almost 100 years
ago from the Rhine river area.
Silesian Wawel
www.brzeg.pl
We have already been to Silesian Carcasonne, we admired Silesian Rome, now we
are ready to visit Silesian Wawel.
That name is often referred to Brzeg – the
fourth city in Opole region, once a capitol
of Brzeg-Legnica Dutchy situated along the
“High Track” – the most important trade
track in medieval Europe.
A castle of Silesian Piasts – an intellectual and cultural centre especially active
122
during the reign of prince George II.
Nicely preserved and impressively sculptured facade of the main building is one
of the most valuable relics of mid–European Renaissance.
On the main entry there is a sculpture of
Prince George and his wife Barbara
Brandenburska and above we can see
some por trait-genealogy gallery with 24
busts of Polish kings and Silesian princes
of the Piast dynasty. A characteristic
courtyard with fully reconstructed threelevel bastions is often named “Silesian
Wawel”. (The castle in Brzeg was built by
Italian architects. One of them – Jakub
Paar was also a builder of King’s Castle
in Warsaw).
There is a Museum of Silesian Piasts in
the castle where we can admire the oldest Piast documents, coins, outstanding
collection of Silesian sculpture, painting
exhibition including works of baroque
master Michael Willman or see the tombstones of Brzeg-Legnica Dutchy princes.
It is worth one’s while to spend some time
in a solicitously cultivated Renaissance
garden.
The cultural highlights organized in the castle are first and foremost: “Poets invasion
on Silesian Piast’s Castle” and a range of
interesting concerts during International
Festival “Wratislavia Cantans”.
On the track
of Gothic
polychrome
In 1997 there was traced in Brzeg area one
of the most interesting tourist tracks in
Opole Silesia – Track of Brzeg Medieval
Polychrome. In 18 of local churches there
are unique Gothic paintings created by unknown master and his imitators.
This educational tourist path begins in St.
Nicolaus sanctuary in Brzeg, then leads you
through Małujowice (a place of a famous
historical battle between Austria and Prussia in 1741 that forejudged the fate of Silesia – from then on for 200 years Silesia was
under administration of Prussia), then
Łukowice Brzeskie, Przylesie, Krzyżowice,
Pogorzela, Łosiów, Strzelniki, Kruszyna.
(Because of safety reasons all churches
along the track are closed.)
(Medieval polychrome is a patron painting
on ceilings; multi-colour gothic painting
made on fresh, wet plaster – Italian word:
al. fresco – bewitches with its age and impressive artistry.)
In St. Jadwiga’s chapel there is a mausoleum of Legnica-Brzeg Piast dynasty. In
the vicinity of the castle there is a baroque
church of Holy Cross Elevation with illusionistic polychrome of a Jesuit – Jan
Kuben.
Małujowice: St. Jacob’s Sanctuary is recognized as one of the most outstanding
relics of Gothic ar t in Silesia. Having
unique and very richly decorated polychrome featuring biblical scenes (complete
illustration of Pauperum Bible), the church
in Małujowice is often called a “Silesian Sistine”. We can also find here a breathtaking
ceiling paintings and a magnificent 14th century portal.
The whole Dutchy was administered right
from the castle and the city government
was carried out from the Tower Hall level.
It is worth one’s while to spend some time
inside the Renaissance Tower Hall to visit its unique rococo decoration of a “councillor room”.
On the old road between Wrocław and
Brzeg in Brzeziny village, there is placed a
huge stone sculpture featuring a Silesian Eagle. It was situated here to commemorate
building the road in 1584. This oldest
road stone in Poland was founded by the
Piast Prince George II.
Kurt Masur - a world-class conductor, director of Gewandehaus Orchestra in Leipzig
and director of Philharmonic in New York,
was born in Brzeg in 1927.
123
Closer
to the nature
Of particular meaning is the biggest landscape
park in the area: Stobrawa Landscape Park. It
covers not only big forest areas but also meadows and water eco-systems that were left of
the Stobrawa-Turawa forest complex.
At the end of a glacial epoch, strong winds blew
out sand from the upper river terraces and over
the years formed some sand drifts. 13 thousand years ago in the north and east parts of
the region there were formed 25-metre high
sand hills making the biggest sand-drift area
in Silesia. Middle-land sand drifts covered with
pine forests, complex of ponds and nicely preserved old river-beds make this particular part
of the region a true sightseeing priority.
11 plants still present in Stobrawa Landscape
Park are included in the so-called “red list” of
endangered species. Here we have some 48
plant species protected by law, around 130 socalled rare species and about 170 species of
land and water birds.
It is recommended to admire picturesque water valleys of Stobrawa, Smortawa, Budkowiczanka, Brynica and Odra using walking
paths or bike tracks.
Park seat: Ładza 077 4693550
www.stobrawa-rybna.eko.org.pl
www.zopk.pl
The Smortawa is one of first rivers whose
tourist values were commonly used already in
19th/20th century during a canoeing rally. In once
Smortawe (at present Leśna Woda “Forest water”), there was built some coastal restaurant
for canoe fans. The menu board was close to
the river bank in order to enable placing orders
straight from the canoes.
Stobrawa Landscape Park is of 50 thousand
hectares area and its natural values may be
seen in 12 communes of the north part of
Opole region. For a few centuries already there
has been developed a comprehensive fishculture including carp, eel, trout, pike and pikeperch. Many ponds full of fish situated far from
the roads and people’s settlements are a perfect home for rare birds like osprey, cormorant, white eagle or heron. Marsh, sand
drifts, many forest areas intact by man – all
this stands for a unique character of the region. Some of the trees are the remnants of
once Silesian Wilderness belonging to the Piast princes of Brzeg.
Mysterious Pokój
www.gminapokoj.pl
Pokój village is situated in the central part of
Stobrawa Landscape Park on the OpoleNamysłów road. There was once cultural life
flourishing with its famous health resort Bad
Carlsruhe. Nowadays it is even more widespread opinion that this “healthcare tradition”
must be cultivated anew in the area. There are
many pine woods surrounding the village and
their bio-therapeutic features are commonly
known. They act soothing, antiseptic and antiasthmatic.
When we drive through Pokój, it is hard to imagine that right in the centre of a huge roundabout
there was once a magnificent palace of
Wirtemberg-Oleśnica princes. It is the only one
in Poland and the second in terms of size starroundabout in Europe.
Earlier magnificence of Pokój is easily seen in
a nicely preserved baroque French garden and
in an English park of Winna Góra (Wine Hill)
placed in the vicinity. In this French garden there
is a partially preserved water saloon (after a
building catastrophe we only have rococo ruins). Of huge historical value is also a cast-iron
mould of a lion crafted for Prince Eugen – a
winner of the battle under Kulm. This mould
was crafted by a sculptor from Gliwice –
Theodor Kalide. In the French garden there is
also the oldest and most imposing Weymouth
pine in Poland. The first cutlings of that tree
were brought to Europe from North America
in 17th century by an English captain George
Weymouth. One of them was planted then in
Pokój. In Winna Góra (Wine Hill) there is preserved a splendid English park with romantic
ponds, canals, mysterious buildings and
sculptures. Winne Wzgórza (Wine Hills) that
were the source of the name for the village,
were six hills piled up around the pond of Helena. In 1780 there was founded a winery with
over 20 thousand shrubs.
126
Piast Castle
and
Dzierżon’s hives
In 1350 there was erected in Karłowice a
magnificent Gothic castle of the Tschammer family. From 1493, all properties in
Karłowice were administered by Adam
Beess – a lieutenant of Brzeg Dutchy. A
tombstone of Adam Beess and his wife Barbara is preserved in St. Peter and Paul’s
church in Lewin Brzeski. Later, all properties in Karłowice area were bought by the
prince of Brzeg – George II (around 1565)
and from that time the castle has been
known as the hunter’s castle of Brzeg Piasts.
The last of Piasts – George IV Wilhelm
passed away right after Hubertus-hunting
of Karłowice in 1675 and from that time the
village became the King’s domain. In 1715
a baroque chapel was built up the castle’s
defence wall. In this chapel, priest Jan
Dzierżon – the most famous bee-keeper in
the world said masses. Priest Dzierżon
came to the parish in Karlsmarkt in 1835.
In Karłowice this “Copernicus of beehive” made the most outstanding discoveries in apiculture. He “moved the hive” by
inventing a skewer to which a honeycomb was stuck. He not only constructed
a famous and later popular all over the world
bee-hive of “twin” type, but also set up an
apiary by vicariate and 12 more in the
neighbourhood villages.
It was in Karłowice that he revealed his theory about bee parthenogenesis. In 19th century right to the door of his house came
stage-coaches bringing letters from all
over the world with congratulations on his
outstanding contribution to the apiculture.
It was from Karłowice that Dzierżon sent his
bees out to different parts of the world. Earlier he brought them from Venice.
Priest Jan Dzierżon’s house: Polish and
German information board on the facade of
the building (it says: private house, inaccessible for visitors, no remembrances of
Dzierżon).
Country
of honey smell
Kluczbork district is the best organized and
tourist-friendly area in the whole Opole region. Here we find many small agricultural
settlements ready to welcome tourists, all
perfectly connected with the bike tracks. All
information about lodging conditions and
sightseeing attractions you can find here:
www.kolot.republika.pl
Ecology and environmental protection widely promoted in the villages of Kluczbork area
had its devoted patron: priest Jan Dzierżon.
“Copernicus of bee-hive” was born in Łowkowice village. His grave is on a small cemetery
near the church.
Maciejów – pedigree apiary and villa where he
lived until his death. In Kluczbork there is a Museum of Dzierżon.
Kuniów village is situated on the road from
Opole to Kluczbork . Here we can admire nicely reconstructed old bakery, smithy, regional
room. In the bakery one is able to bake their
own traditional “Bread of Kuniów”.
www.kuniow.pl
It is highly recommended to taste the specialties of Silesian cuisine in Chocianowice. Numerous ecological farms offering healthy and
natural food and educational meetings promoting environmental protection are held in
Borkowice, Bąków-Brzezinki, BiadaczKamienisko, Biadacz-Brodnica, Bogdańczowice. Tourist and Recreational Centre is situated in Bąków. There are three palaces in Opole
region in which there are nowadays some ecological farms organized and all of them are in
Kluczbork area: Gołkowice, Biskupice, Proślice.
This impressively restored palace in Maciejów
may be visited each Sunday.
Sacrum
Opole region is a place of high tolerance for
different cultures, traditions and nationalities.
Churches with their small cemeteries, crosses, chapels: these are the “stone testimonies”
127
of past ages, people’s achievements, sometimes complicated history and big plans
concerning the future. Each sanctuary is different. They are of different architecture style,
size and even shape of towers. In the area of
Kluczbork and Olesno we wander along a perfectly marked “Track of wooden sacral architecture”. It begins in Opole-Bierkowice, then
leads you through Czarnowąsy, Dobrzeń
Wielki, Kolanowice, Laskowice, Bierdzany, Lasowice Wielkie, Lasowice Małe, Chocianowice,
Stare Olesno, Wędrynia and finally we reach
the most interesting in Europe pilgrimage
church of St. Anna near Olesno. It is built on
a rose scheme and is of “zero class” as far
as relics classification is concerned.
Its model along with the model of the Eiffel tower were presented during the world architecture exhibition in New York.
Some interesting and worth seeing architecture surprise in the region is a pyramid in
Rożnów – a tombstone of general von Eben
and 40 Silesian aristocrats including descendants of the Hohenzollern line. The pyramid was
built by a disciple of Carl Langhans who was
a creator of the Brandenburg Gate.
Journey into
medieval times
www.byczyna.pl
Byczyna – a picturesque small town placed
in Kluczbork area is a pure historical treasure. It is worth one’s while to spend some
time walking along medieval defence walls or
visit the nicely restored market-place. You will
feel the atmosphere of past times but even
today we may be witnesses of great events.
Here is “Zamoyski approaching Byczyna
borders” – a battle commemorating 420 anniversary of the victory of hetman Jan
Zamoyski over the troops of Austrian archduke Maksymilian Habsburg.
The tourist product of Opole region: in 2007
in Biskupice near Byczyna a Polish-Czech
Knighthood Instruction Centre was founded.
This centre is operating 12 months a year in
a specially built replica of a medieval strong-
hold. There are organized workshops, instruction meetings, concerts of medieval
music, horse riding exercises, or lessons of old
handicraft.
Opole Silesia
full of attractions
and always ready
for tourists
Almost each locality in Opole region has its
own attraction making tourists interested,
bewitched and willing to come back. It may
be an architectural monument, some impressive example of nature, nicely restored palace or perfectly prepared touristfriendly facilities i.e. tennis courts, music
clubs, bowling-alleys. Opole region is situated on a historical Polish-German-Czech
border and is of unique meaning as far as
its geographical position is concerned. It is
a home for 35 cities, 1561 villages and 71
communes belonging to 12 administrative
districts.
There are many preserved relics of the past.
There are people always willing to help, tolerant, open to other cultures but in traditional manner bound with their small country or as Opole Germans say: bound with
our heimat. This small homeland isn’t
however out-of-the-way place but still an
integrated part of Europe with its rich cultural aftermath of Opole Silesia. The beauty of Opole region villages and this policy
to preserve its original look has been
praised many times during contests
“Restoring the village” promoting ways of
saving Polish rural tradition.
Coming back from each of the suggested
excursions, we will realize how many interesting places have been waiting so
long to be finally discovered. We actually
used to pass them by without spotting their
beauty and exceptionality.
www.orot.pl
Marshall Office of Opole Region:
www.umwo.opole.pl
128