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THE ACCESSORY THAT M A K ES T H E DIF F E RE N C E
LET’S TALK
ABOUT SOCKS
Fashion specialist Bernhard Roetzel explains why the new Scabal socks are so exclusive and offers
style advice to find the right colour combinations between trousers, shoes and socks.
By Bernhard Roetzel
E ven men with only a very remote interest
in cars know the name Bentley and what
it stands for. Exceptional cars. Only very
few men are aware of the fact that this name has a
similar importance in the world of textile though
in a completely different way. In the 1950s the
Bentley Engineering Co. Ltd. became the world’s
largest knitting machine manufacturer. Since
the industrial revolution of the 19th century
the United Kingdom had ruled the world of
textiles. For several reason the British lost their
leadership in the 1970s and 1980s, the names of
their once famous machine building companies
survived. And so did some of the machines. A few
are on display in museums, others are still being
used to produce fine knitwear.
BRITISH ENGINEERING
AND ITALIAN DESIGN
The now coveted and well serviced treasures
have much less output than modern machines
and they need skilled people to operate them. In
return they deliver ‘old fashioned’ quality in the
best sense of the word. So when Scabal headed
out to create their own line of luxury socks they
decided to use vintage Bentley machines to make
them. They were lucky to find a couple of them
in a little factory in Italy. They are more than 50
years old but still in perfect condition thanks
to British engineering and the loving care of
their Italian owners. Fortunately a small team
of dedicated ‘operatori’ was available too. They
know how to finish the socks ‘a mano’ creating
the hand linked toe. This means that the seams
of the unfinished socks are joined to together by
hand, thread by thread. This elaborate task can
only be performed by highly trained specialists,
and it results in an extremely comfortable sock.
An elastic Filanca thread is added at this stage to
ensure that the sock will retain its shape.
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greens were almost exclusivly worn by British
gentleman and their imitators around the world.
Socks are loved because of their soft feel and In the world of Sloan Ranger Style flamboyant
comfortable fit but they are usually chosen socks represented aristocratic eccentricity in
because of their material and colour. Most opposition to the conformity of the average
men nowadays prefer cotton although wool middle class office worker.
wears better even on hot days. Consequently
The basic rule for sock etiquette is simple.
Scabal offers socks made of both fibres to suit Socks should be black or dark grey with grey
everybody’s taste. 100 % Merino extra fine wool or navy business suits and black shoes, brown
is used for the Atlantic quality (yarn fineness 22, socks are taboo. If brown shoes are worn with
count 234). 100 % Cotton Fil d’ Ecosse socks are grey or navy suits grey or navy socks are the best
available in the Pacific quality (yarn fineness choice. Colours are non-existent in the context
26, count 120/2) and the Indian quality (yarn of traditional business etiquette. Colour comes
fineness 26, count 90/2). For the wool socks a in with smart casual dress like for instance the
classic rib design was chosen while the cotton blazer or casual jacket. Low risk colours for socks
hose is offered both as a fine plain knit and with are wine red and bottle green, they perfectly
a rib design. Two lengths are in store, the classic match the navy blazer and grey flannel trousers.
knee length and the more popular calf length. The effect is heightened if the colour of the socks
The range of colours includes classic darks for is repeated in the tie or the pocket handkerchief.
the conservative dresser and some browns and More daring chaps will wear crazier colours with
beiges to match fall and winter cloths. Green, both the suit and any type of jacket. They will
fuchsia, purple and navy are available for those even go for purple socks with their dinner suit.
who like to call attention to their ankles. Recently Still smart casual dress is the prime domain for
this group of men has grown from a minority to a coloured socks. More so today than ever before
substantial clientele. Nevertheless most men are because colour is a key part of every outfit. The
fairly hesitant when it comes to coloured socks. best results are achieved when the socks match
another garment or accessory, for example white
CHOOSE THE RIGHT COLOUR
chino pants, blue blazer, brown suede loafers,
COMBINATION
lavender socks and lavender v-neck sweater. You
could add a blue tie with lavender stripes as the
The history of menswear has known many icing on the cake. If in doubt whether to choose
fashions including various fads concerning leg dark socks or coloured socks with a casual outfit
decoration. The idea that men are supposed to it is always better to opt for colour. Black or grey
only wear dark knee length socks is fairly new. In socks look terribly sad if they are mixed with
the 1930s when the knitting industry was able to classic casual colours like khaki, light blue, navy
offer highly coloured patterns it was quite nor- and brown.
mal for well dressed gentleman to coordinate the
colour of their socks with their tie and their hat.
A dark age of menswear commenced in the 1950s
when businessmen around the world started to
dress in shades of navy and grey. Socks were supposed to blend in between the black shoes and
the dark cloth of the trousers. Coloured socks
were not dead but they were banned from the
Scabal’s traditional socks production in Italy
offices. Flashy reds, pinks, yellows and emerald
© Scabal
A WIDE RANGE OF CLASSIC SOCKS
THE MACHINES
ARE MORE
THAN 50 YEARS
OLD BUT
STILL
IN PERFECT
CONDITION
THANKS TO
BRITISH
ENGINEERING
AND THE
LOVING CARE
OF THEIR
ITALIAN OWNERS
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ACC ESSORIES
NOTHING BUT THE BEST
Goodyear-welted genuine leather shoe, made in Italy.
© Scabal
This season, Scabal extends its range of accessories by introducing
for the very first time fine leather and suede shoes, and many other
genuine leather accessories such as wallets and luggage. Socks
are back in the collection and now more than ever modern gentlemen
can enjoy the pleasure of creating a full Scabal’s look.
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Long socks (knee length), ‘Berlin’ model, ‘Pacific’ collection,
100% cotton “Fil d’Écosse” – Also available in extra fine Merino wool.
© Scabal
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‘Sette pieghe’ pure silk ties made in Italy, ‘Nº 12’ collection.
The tie is fold by hand seven times to obtain this unique look.
Background : Woolen flannel fabric Nº 702811
from the ‘Flannel & Saxony’ collection (Super 100’s).
© Scabal
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Suede winter glove, flannel and suede belt from the ‘Mackay’ collection,
goodyear-welted suede and leather shoe, made in Italy.
Background : Woolen flannel fabric Nº 702811 from the ‘Flannel & Saxony’ collection (Super 100’s).
© Scabal
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