THE ITMA THAT ALMOST WASN`T! - ad.nmm.de
Transcription
THE ITMA THAT ALMOST WASN`T! - ad.nmm.de
THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION DailyNews News from ITMA 2007 - The International Exhibition of Textile Machinery Issue 6 - September 18 2007 Page 5 Page 8 Page 11 Page 22 Extraordinary advances in fibre manipulation Four record breakers on show from Rieter Finishing touches from Switzerland Seamless displays from Santoni Essential Contacts Desk editor ADRIAN WILSON Tel: +44 (0)7983 449082 e-mail: [email protected] Editorial team: JOHN SCRIMSHAW Tel: +44 (0)7977 267307 e-mail: [email protected] MARIANNE CURTIS Tel: +44 (0)7730 688997 e-mail: [email protected] BERNARD CHYZY Tel: +44 (0)7791 245828 e-mail: [email protected] Design and Production RON CUNNINGTON Tel: +44 (0)7970 596136 e-mail: [email protected] Show Photographer NEIL EDWARDS THE ITMA THAT ALMOST WASN’T! Vistors to the show this week may be unaware that an incident on the eve of the show opening almost led to the enforced closure of eight of the halls. Despite the seamless organisation and years of meticulous planning by Cematex, the VDMA and Messe München, something completely unforseeable led to a large-scale callout of the police, health and safety inspectors and the fire brigade In the early afternoon of September 12, a number of people involved in moving wooden crates from overseas on the site of the New Munich Trade Fair Centre complained of coughing fits and skin irritations from vapours. Some also suffered nausea and headaches. At around 6pm, further cases occurred. The symptoms disappeared after the individuals had showered and changed their clothes. In tests the fire brigade and police did not identify any harmful substances. As a precaution, the affected parts of the site and some exhibition halls were temporarily closed. It is believed the Advertising Sales team DAVID JAGGER Tel: +44 (0)7967 568807 e-mail: [email protected] JAMES WILSON Tel: +44 (0)7970 652980 e-mail: [email protected] ROSS BARKER Tel: +44 (0)7786 990761 e-mail: [email protected] ITMA Daily News is printed in Munich by J Gotteswinter Gmbh CEMATEX The European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers For information about our machinery and ITMA shows, see our website at www.cematex.com Marcio and Simone Fabretti receive their prize from Franziska Ezold (left) of Messe München’s exhibition project management. BUSINESS AND PLEASURE vapours came from a fumigant applied to the wooden crates in compliance with statutory regulations governing their shipment. Later, the fire brigade announced that tests for the fumigant methyl bromide, carried out on the wooden crates and in the halls, had proved negative and no further risk to health was determined. The Department of Health, Environment and Toxicology at the University Hospital Rechts der Isar confirmed this, and all the exhibition space was subsequently re-opened for use in the early hours of 13 September 13. The wooden crates were disposed of immediately, as well as the packaging material. This just goes to show that – even when everything has been planned to the letter – there is always room for the unpredictable... One happy ITMA visitor can look forward to a relaxing end to his stay in Munich. Brazilian Marcio Fabretti, production manager at the synthetic-fabric producer Jaguar Têxtil e Confecçöes Ltda, in Sãu Paulo, proved he’s the luckiest man at the show when his name came out of a free draw, organised by ITMA hosts Messe München. He and his wife, Simone, will get VIP treatment as they stay on for an extra two days, to be entertained and see the sights of the city. Marcio entered the draw on the internet, from his South American home. The prize was provided by the exhibition centre’s partners Servicebroker, who will also act as hosts. For the exultant couple, it will be a welcome chance to turn business into pleasure. “We’ve been here since the opening day, and we hadn’t had any opportunity to see Munich properly!” said Simone. In addition to hotel accommodation and evening dining, the prize includes an excursion to see the sights of Bavaria, with its stunning scenery, and a visit to Munich’s famous Oktoberfest. ITMA Daily News is produced in association with Knitting International, International Dyer and Textile Month ITMA show news THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION MONNA LISA GAINS A TURN OF SPEED Mr Lv Honggang pictured with staff at the CITME booth in the East Foyer. DOUBLING UP IN SHANGHAI The joint strengths of Cematex and CITME will ensure that next year’s ITMA Asia + CITME 2008 show will pull out all the stops to create a must-attend event. “ITMA is a very famous brand, while CITME has been the show closest to the largest buyer market in the world,” said Mr Lv Honggang, vice-general secretary of the China Textile Machinery Association and assistant director of of sales and operations for ITMA Asia + CITME 2008. “In addition it will also attract many buyers from other South-East Asian countries.” He added that the new exhibiton’s venue, the Shanghai New Expo Centre, already has nine halls, but by next March will have an additional two. “Shanghai is the hub for all regional textile activity in east China,” said Mr Honggang, “and is also increasingly international, with many of the European companies already based there, either through joint ventures or branch offices.” Maria Avery, Cematex general secretary, added that ITMA Asia + CITME would be held every two years, contrary to rumours that it would become an annual event, and that Cematex would not be lending any support to other events in China. Cematex is the European umbrella organisation of nine national textile machinery manufacturers’ associations which are: ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ACIMIT, Italy. [email protected] AMTEX, Spain. [email protected] BTMA, Great Britain. [email protected] GTM, Netherlands. [email protected] SWISSMEM, Switzerland. [email protected] SYMATEX, Belgium. [email protected] TMAS, Sweden. [email protected] UCMTF, France. [email protected] VDMA, Germany. [email protected] Printed in association with Knitting International, International Dyer and Textile Month Robustelli and its ink partner For.Tex are showing a brand new version of the Monna Lisa digital textile production printer, containing exclusively and for the first time the new Epson Type-M drop-on-demand printhead. The new eight-colour machine can deliver well over double the printing speed of the established original, with more than 96 sq m an hour at the highest resolution of 720dpi. The machine is equipped with 12 variabledrop Type-M heads and versions are available with printing widths of 160cm, 180cm or 320cm. The example on display at ITMA is scheduled for delivery to Italian fabric printer Nomega, where it will join an installed complement of ten of the earlier machines. For.Tex’s Paulo Crespi said there were several more firm orders for the machine, as well as interest from countries as diverse as Brazil, India and Indonesia. Also being shown at the Robustelli/For.Tex stand, No 226 in Hall C2, is a 320cm-wide version of the original Monna Lisa, the first example of which was delivered to the Italian printing-screen manufacturer Fotoincisione Bergamasca, in December Pictured with the new Monna Lisa is Riccardo Robustelli 2006, where it is providing the basis of a diversification into textile-printing services. The company now has two machines, using For.Tex nano-pigment inks for the production of interior fabrics, both on a commission basis and with its own collections. “Delighted, excited and really looking forward to it.” This was the reaction of Sylvia Phua, CEO of Singapore-based MP International, to the news that it has been elected to be the organiser of ITMA 2011 in Barcelona. “What makes it even more exciting is that we are very familiar now with the textile machinery industry, both the exhibitors and the associations involved,” she added. “What’s important is the mutual understanding we have developed through the previous shows. We are a global service industry company and over the past ten years have worked very hard to gain the trust of the community which is ITMA. We are looking forward also, to ensuring ITMA Asia and CITME, next year in Shanghai, is a seamless event.” 3 WORLDWIDE TESTING SPECIALIST European importers have successfully relied for years when purchasing goods from countries such as China, India, Bangladesh and Turkey. These include, for example, certification under Oeko-Tex Standard 100, checking for compliance with legal requirements in the target markets and analysing other quality criteria such as the finish, fit or comfort characteristics. The recent media outcry resulting from the product recall action by the toy producer Mattel, and the discovery of harmful substances in babies’ bibs from China, has once again sparked a debate about cheap goods from Asia, causing deep disquiet among consumers. The fact is that responsible manufacturers in China do not inevitably supply poor quality goods if they consistently make quality a high priority and, for example, have their goods tested by recognised institutions. For textiles, Germany’s Hohenstein Institutes offer a wide range of independent quality assessments and certification processes on which 4 Headquarters All laboratory testing and certification procedures are carried out at the headquarters of the Hohenstein Institutes in Bönnigheim, in order to ensure a consistent quality standard for customers. However, 16 agencies in 15 countries around the world also help ensure that expert support is available for interested companies actually in the production countries themselves. Effective protection against possible harmful substances in textiles is provided by the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 which the Hohenstein Institutes helped to develop 15 years ago – this is a voluntary test and certification system for textile fibres, yarns, fabrics and manufactured end products of all kinds. Items that have been tested successfully can be endorsed by retailers with the ‘Confidence in Textiles’ label, which provides a valuable guide for purchasers of textiles. However, the prerequisite is that all components of the product, including accessories such as buttons, zips, linings etc. without exception comply with the requirements of the list of criteria which applies consistently worldwide. The test criteria include legally banned or regulated substances, chemicals that are known to be harmful to health and parameters enabling consumers to take precautions regarding their health. Taken as a whole, therefore, they go far beyond existing legal requirements. The level of testing depends on the intended use of the textile product in question – the closer the skin contact, the stricter the limits that are prescribed. Baby items and textile toys are therefore tested particularly rigorously. Random samples Because Oeko-Tex certified starting materials can be used at subsequent processing stages along the textile chain, random samples may be tested at any time to ensure that the required criteria are being met. In addition, each year the test institutes of the International OekoTex Association carry out product inspections among retailers and take random samples during production, when the human ecology standards that have been promised by manufacturers are checked. The inspection service which is also offered by the Hohenstein Institutes, for example in China, India, Bangladesh and Turkey, is not confined to assessing finished products but also, by taking random samples locally, allows the various stages of production and the flow of goods to be inspected. This extends from examining the raw materials and accessories that are used, through to monitoring production and inspecting the outgoing goods and ensuring that they are carefully loaded into the containers. Thanks to this comprehensive production monitoring and quality control system, any deficiencies are detected early, so that subsequent costs to the purchasing company arising from complaints are effectively avoided. ITMA Daily News - Issue 6 ITMA show news THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION PIXELATING THE SUB-MICROSCOPIC US fibre specialist Hills Inc., exhibiting here in Hall A3, is showing some extordinary examples of what can be achieved in terms of engineering the composition of synthetic fibres. The picture on the right shows the ITMA 2008 logo positioned through the cross-section of an individual fibre, rather as the names of holiday resorts can be put through a stick of rock (a kind of candy for non UK readers). Hills realised that as the sophisticated structures of bicomponent fibres such as ‘islands-in-the-sea’ – where two individual fibres are extruded and the ‘sea’ is then removed – can be more readily controlled, they can be treated under sophisticated microscopes rather like pixels are on a computer screen. “We have been exploring this technology for the past 12 years said Ben Shuler, Hills’ vice-president of business development and project management, “and there have been special applications for military uses and other confidential projects.” Now, however, the first commercial applications as logo security fibres are being inroduced this year by a new company, ARmark Security Fibers. The company is custom-designing them to help brand owners address their authentication needs and to combat the growing problem of counterfeiting. In addition to employing Hills technology to brand these fibres, ARmark, which is based in Glen Rock, Philadelphia, USA, also manufactures the detection systems which authenPictured is Ben Shuler and Alsion Hannay of Hills ENTERPRISES LIMITED ...for your investment in quality SDC Enterprises are the manufacturer of premium quality colour fastness consumables for use in BS, EN, and ISO test procedures. Specified by many major retailers, SDC products have become industry standard, worldwide. SDC have been researching and producing standard materials since the 1930’s, internal master standards only available to SDC, guarantee continuity of performance over many years. 100% of profits from SDC consumables are returned to the Society of Dyers & Colourists to continue their not-for-profit work such as supporting and sponsoring research into the development of standards and industry best practice. ● ● ● ● ● ● ● Multifibre DW Standard Adjacent fabrics Standard Reference Detergents Testing Chemicals Martindale Test Grey Scales Assessment Aids and Testing Equipment Multifibre DW with inbuilt security Visit us at ITMA 2007 A4.352 SDC Enterprises Limited, Unit 29, Pitcliffe Way, Upper Castle Street, Bradford, BD5 7SG, UK Tel: +44 (0)1274 750160, Fax: +44 (0)1274 750162, [email protected] or visit our website at www.sdcenterprises.co.uk Printed in association with Knitting International, International Dyer and Textile Month 5 ticate products by a simple process of examining fibre cross-sections. The security designs needn’t be as complex as the ITMA logo example produced to demonstrate the capability of the Hills technology, but they simply can’t be copied. “ARmark has a Hills system with four extruders so it’s possible to produce the cross-section design in four colours,” added Mr Shuler. “It can produce such fibres from most common textile polymers, including nylon, polypropylene, polyester and aramids. The fibres and yarns can also be UV and IR responsive.” THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION ITMA show news EXTREME STRETCH Textile-chemical producer Tanatex reports keen interest at ITMA in its new Easy Stretch finish, which significantly enhances the stretch and recovery of knitwear. Easy Stretch is the result of a piece of imaginative thinking, in which Tanatex researchers tested various combinations of their existing softener products to discover what effect they would have on elongation. Using samples of PA/elastane fabric, a combination of Persoftal Nano SIL and Persoftal Ultra ultimately provided the best solution, with elongation increased by 20% in comparison with the untreated knit. Tanatex says the effect on rib tricot and sportswear is to give both extra comfort and elasticity. Tanatex used a modified version of the M&S P14 testing method in order to evaluate its results. “We tested the strain of the knit when a load of 0.5 kg was reached,” said global finishing product manager Johan Cleyman. “On a non-treated knit the stretch after five stretching cycles was 90mm. When we tested the Easy Stretch finished knit we obtained a strain of 120mm. Mr Cleyman said it had later been discovered that the addition of a small quantity of polyurethane could increase the stretch to as much as 160mm. 6 Pictured (left to right) are: Walter Zweifel, Rieter’s head of sales in Thailand), Udomchai Chalermlarp-anan of Nanyang Textile Group and Jürgen Müller and Peter Illi both of Rieter PRESENT IN OVER 100 COUNTRIES Rieter Spun Yarn Systems has just delivered its 700th RSB drawframe to Nanyang Textile Group, a leading spinning and knitting company based in Thailand. Nanyang is currently operating over 30 RSB drawframes. Rieter has now installed more than 24,000 RSB/SB drawframes worldwide in over 2,100 spinning mills in around 100 countries. MAKING THE INVISIBLE VISIBLE Foreign fibres made of polypropylene or PE foils are still a massive problem for the cotton processing industry. Enormous sums are spent annually by spinning, weaving, knitting and finishing operations to compensate for damages caused by contamination with PP and residual foils. Truetzschler’s Securoprop SP-FP is a new solution to this problem. An enhanced version of the company’s proven Securomat SP-F technology and in addition to coloured foreign parts it can also detect and separate white, colourless and transparent polypropylene in the blow room, with an absolutely minimum loss of good fibres. Truetzschler uses an entirely new patented technology to detect these foreign parts – polarised light and CCD colour line cameras developed in-house. The unit is on display at stand 321/412 in Hall 4. ITMA Daily News - Issue 6 THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION ITMA show news RECORD BREAKING 0N FOUR FRONTS Rieter Textile Systems reports innovation on four fronts in the spinning of short staple yarns here in Munich. Highlights at the company’s stand include the new G 35 ring spinning machine, the new K 45 compact spinning machine, SB 20 double head and SB D 11 single head draw frames, the new E 66/E 76 comber generation combined with the new OMEGAlap combing preparation. New versions and improvements of the C 60 card are being presented along with a new integrated drafting module. The company’s latest R 40 rotor spinning machine is being supplied in the longest version available with 500 units at the same time and also the fastest achievable speeds of 330 metres per minute and 160,000 rpm. The company is also showing the longest K 45 compact ring spinning unit with 1,632 spindles running with various options via its Variospin with core yarn. A third innovation is the company’s latest 8 fully-automatic comber, the fastest and most productive available, running at speeds of 500 metres per minute for production of up to 74kg/hour of combed sliver. Finally, the latest version of Rieter’s C 60 card has an output of 220 kg/hour with a working width of 1.5 metres. Rieter is the leading systems supplier for machinery for spinning short staple yarns, and producing nonwovens or pellets. The company’s current strategy is to innovate for further customer benefit and to move East to be closer to the growing markets. Rieter’s top performance products reduce the number of machines needed for production, ensuring both quality and lower operation costs. In all fields of activity, Rieter offers complete systems. This approach offers quick return of investment and independent consultancy for the customer with a focus on the right solution without compromise. The specialists for components for the ring and rotor spinning technology, Graf, Bräcker, Novibra and Suessen, manufacture technology parts with high precision for high performance and convincing permanence for spinning mills, as well as for OEMs. Graf aims to conquer a new market field with its latest products for the nonwovens industry. Together with its partner NSC, Rieter offers a complete systems supply to cover 80% of the nonwovens market. Rieter’s research and development focuses on top performance products. It can be shown that the increase of machine production lowers the specific costs per kg of end product. Top performance systems also reduce space needed, power consumed and maintenance. In parallel Rieter can demonstrate that the quality level not only has been obtained but further improved. ITMA Daily News - Issue 6 THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION ITMA show news BUILDING ON DIGITAL POTENTIAL DuPont Imaging Technologies is previewing a next-generation, high-speed, variabledrop, two-metre-wide digital textile printer at its stand in Hall C2. “Although this system is currently not a commercial offering, we are evaluating several different ways to potentially deliver this technology to the industry,” said Michael Lazzara, global product manager for the DuPont Artistri. “Being at ITMA provides us with a rare opportunity to evaluate these options with the textile printing marketplace.” With print speeds up to 120 square metres an hour and variable drop size capabilities, the prototype has been designed for production environments where high speed and quality are important. “This is one response to requests from customers and the industry for a highspeed, variable-drop, production-capable digital textile system that can print on a broad range of textiles,” said Mr Lazzara. “The system builds on the extensive experience we have gained in the global textile marketplace with our Artistri 2020 and 3320 printers and we want to clearly identify potential applications where this system fits in,” Also featured on the DuPont stand, Hall C2 417-516, is the recently launched Artistri 3320 digital textile printing system. ORGANIC OILS GROW IN POPULARITY Interest is growing in circular knitting machine oils suitable for organic labels, as knitters become more conscious of environmental concerns. Speaking to the ITMA Daily News, Ian Jameson, senior sales manager at UK-based company Vickers Oils, said sales of oils which meet particular environmental standards were growing. “Environmental awareness has only really become an issue with knitters over the last two years,” he said. “It ties in with growing environmental awareness in some developing countries. “It has been said that you can tell the colour of the fashions by looking in China’s rivers, but they are becoming more environmentally aware.” Mr Jameson also said Vickers Oils, an environmentally accredited company, has produced NPE-free oils for the last 10 years. “We removed NPEs from our oils at the time as they were to be banned from the EU.” Buyers of Vickers Oils tend to be the bigger knitting factories supplying export markets which have the latest machinery. Right: Ian Jameson, senior sales manager at Vickers Oils 10 Ian Jameson, senior sales manager at Vickers Oils ITMA Daily News - Issue 6 ITMA show news Pictured is Xetema Vollenwider director of sales and marketing Karsten Heinz with assistants Alexandra and Kathrin. THE FINISHING TOUCHES Xetma Vollenweider’s range of fabric surface finishing systems being shown in Hall C3 at stand 500 comprises Soft Touch (brushing and emerizing), Plush Touch (raising), Even Touch (shearing), Level Touch Printed in association with Knitting International, International Dyer and Textile Month (carpet shearing) and Clean Touch (cloth cleaning). The new Soft Touch combines THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION brushing and emerizing in a single operation to produce high density fabrics said to have an incomparably softer feel which the company is calling ‘Rose Petal’. Using this combined technology, in which brushing and emerizing rollers are used alternately, much higher production speeds can be achieved than with competing single-line. An increase in productivity can also be achieved by combining the raising and emerizing technologies in one process, which the company refers to as ‘Moss Touch’ due to the high volume of the very short, dense pile. As the the longest-standing manufacturer of shearing machines Xetma Vollenweider can draw on more than 120 years of experience and in addition to providing maximum precision, its shearing systems provide extended cutter durability. The pile preparation and shearing system on display here in Munich is engineered to achieve the maximum possible production speeds and producing shearing results and the highest quality. Also being introduced is the compact Optiplush XT for manufacturers of velvets, plush fabrics and long-pile articles, which is modular in design so that several processes can be easily integrated into a single system. 11 SAVIO SECURES MAJOR ORDER Italy’s Savio yesterday concluded a very significant order from India. The client is the Ramco Group and encompasses 84 Polar I winders and 22 FlexiRotor 3000 OE spinning machines. Pictured above, from the left are SR Srirama Raja, director of Shri Vishnu Shankar Mills (Ramco), L. Cucchetto, Savio’s general manager. V. Raju general manager of Rajapalayam Mills (Ramco) and G. Checchini, general manager of ITEMA India. IT Challenge The giant Microsoft corporation is planning an assault on the textile and apparel industry, with textile IT specialist Blue Fox Porini in the vanguard. The Italian company, exhibiting in Hall A2 at stand 221, was chosen by the global corporation as its partner for the development of sector-specific ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning) applications based on the flagship Microsoft Dynamics AX. The project began in 2005, and the first applications are due to launch on October 1 in India, the USA, Belgium and Italy. The applications will also feature at Microsoft’s convention in Copenhagen, in October. GET SET FOR LESS SPACE Germany’s Power-Heat-Set is launching an entirely new heat-set process for carpet yarns. The company says its new, compact system is ‘unparalleled’ in many of its advances, with minimal energy consumption, a space-saving design and greater cost-effectiveness. Furthermore, says Power-Heat-Set, operation and maintenance are made easier. Several patents are pending. The system, which uses a saturated steam process up to 140°C, with integrated yarn 12 cooling, requires a space of only 15m x 5m to encompass creel, compact heatsetting and winding machine. The machine accommodates 24 ends, with a throughput of up to 250kg/h and a yarn input speed up to 700m/min. Power consumption is up to 7kWh. President and CEO Peter Resch said a heatrecovery unit could be added, providing a further positive effect on the total energy balance. The machine system can be seen in Hall A5 at stand 300. ITMA Daily News - Issue 6 ITMA show news THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION SMALL BUT PERFECTLY FORMED Easy to miss because of its diminutive size is the L2B 100, on the stand of the Greek-UK Intertrad Group, Hall C1 at stand 371. This is a lab dyeing machine with almost all the features of a full-size jet dyeing machine, and is designed to achieve a high level of lab-to-bulk transferability. Manufactured by Talos Robotics, the company behind the Robolab, the L2B has a sample capacity of between 15 and 30g and operates at liquor ratios between 1:6 and 1:15. The temperature range is from 5-135°. Intertrad says that until now, factors that dramatically affect the final shade in bulk production, such as fabric movement, progressive additions, controlled automatic rinsing, pH adjustment, and filling/draining, could not be paralleled in lab procedures. The L2B 100 has been designed to a address these deficiencies. Intertrad claims lab-to-bulk repeatability in excess of 95%, and repeatability over 98%. While it is perhaps the most visually arresting feature of the Intertrad stand, the machine is perhaps not the main focus of the company’s efforts at ITMA. Rather, it is promoting the benefits of its MentorSys consultancy and software programme, aimed at guiding mills towards greater efficiency. Intertrad experts will work with dyehouses anywhere in the world, analyse their processes and recommend a programme of efficiency measures. Technical sales director Glykeria Kostoula said that, uniquely, Intertrad would tell managers exactly how much they could expect to save, and would then work with them over an extended period as mentors. Intertrad Group was formerly known as Sclavos International, and was the distributor of Sclavos dyeing machines. It changed its name last year after the relationship ceased and now only retains the Sclavos name it in its US subsidiary, which, however, no longer sells Sclavos machines. GTN BUYS SSM SINGEING MACHINE Leading cotton singed and ready to dye yarn exporter GTN Textiles, based in Alwaye, Kerala, India, today confirmed an order for 80 positions of the new generation GSX-2 singeing machine . The GTN Group employs more than 6,000 people and is headed by the Patodia family. Pictured from left to right are Arne Jaeger of GM SSM India, Rainer Roten CEO of SSM, Beat Siegrist of Schweiter Technologies, B. K. Patodia, Mr Seksaria and Umang Patodia. Printed in association with Knitting International, International Dyer and Textile Month 13 THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION ITMA show news CONSTANT CLOTHING Garnett Wire’s metallic card clothing is manufactured in the company’s factory in Cleckheaton, West Yorkshire, UK, with the wire profile supplied by a sister company, ensuring the process is controlled from round wire to the finished product. This has allowed Garnett Wire, which is at stand 202 in Hall A4 this week, to build up a strong reputation in the textile carding industry for reliability, durability, and service. The company’s metallic card clothing is supplied to some of the leading companies in the woollen, worsted and nonwoven textiles sectors throughout the world. It can supply carbon steel and alloy/stainless steel products as required by specialist textile producers. The need for installation speed in order to reduce down time is critical in today’s manufacturing environment and Garnett Wire has been in the forefront of developing equipment that is simply added to the carding machine to allow the fitting of the metallic wires with as little dismantling of the card as possible. This equipment is designed to enable it to be fitted to any type of carding machine. TWO YEARS IN SHANGHAI The Chinese contact office of the Hohenstein Institutes in Shanghai is looking back on two extremely successful years in business. Hohenstein Textile Consulting Co. Ltd. was founded at the beginning of June 2005 as an advisory and intermediary company and currently employs a number of highly-qualified members of staff under the leadership of country manager Rachel Huang, pictured right. The range of services on offer from the Hohenstein overseas representative agency covers a broad spectrum of textile quality tests, ranging from traditional material tests through to the evaluation of processing and fitness for purpose. ITMA show news Pictured with the Oerlikon Barmag team is Alsafil CEO Patrick Dallamano. THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION TEXTURING MACHINE ORDER FROM ALSAFIL The Oerlikon Barmag MPS CoolFlex texturing machine has been received with huge interest and the company is celebrating its first sales success with this new machine during the show. The machine is a model variant of the Multi Purpose Superflex texturing machine launched in 2003 and Alsafil Spa, one of the major Italian yarn manufacturers, this week signed a contract for eight MPS machines, six of which are in the CoolFlex design. “We procured eight MPS machines at the beginning of the year,” said Patrick Dallamano, CEO and owner of Alsafil “We have been convinced by this texturing concept for quite some time now. The MPS CoolFlex has some special features, which make it virtually the perfect machine for us. The decision to purchase was an easy one.” Equipped with the Oerlikon Barmag MPS texturing concept as well as the automation supplied by Oerlikon Textile subsidiary Autefa, Alsafil is currently the most modern texturing plant in Europe. The MPS - the 1,000th section was recently commissioned - is widely regarded as a guarantee of success for quality-conscious yarn manufacturers in the high-end market. Its standard equipment is the Unitens online monitoring system, which provides consistent evaluation of the yarn quality. With more than 500,000 sensors in over 2,300 machines in 41 different countries, Unitens is the most-demanded system of its kind. THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION ITMA show news HARNESS-FREE AIR-JET A HIT Narrow fabrics machinery specialist Jakob Müller of Switzerland reports a number of sales during this ITMA of its new MDLA 115 (taffeta) airjet loom. This is the world’s first harness-free, air-jet loom for high-quality, jacquard-patterned labels with cut edges. The new process, with direct, individual warp thread control for which a global patent has been registered, replaces jacquard machines, harnesses with comber boards and retracting springs. This allows simple access to the weft, auxiliary and warp fibres from the front and above. Weft insertion in up to eight colours is carried out by the patented three-pressure system, which, in combination with the yarn table, allows the production of an extensive range of yarn qualities at the highest insertion speeds. Individual warp thread control means that the production of labels with individual numbering (Münumbermaster) and bar codes (Mübarcode, visible or invisible) are amongst the most important applications of the new machine. Also attracting a lot of interest at Jakob Müller’s stand (314 in Hall B4) is the Müprint1 for manufacturing printed textile tapes for high-quality labels. This semi-digital system provides rotary printing for one- and twocolour labels. The system consists of the Mücad-Print (label design software), Müscreener (screening drum production, 1 screen per colour), Müprint1 (printing machine for satin and taffeta tapes) and the Mücleaner (printing drum cleaning device). The Müprint1 has a maximum printing width of 200 mm and up to four tapes can be printed simultaneously. An article change takes a maximum of five minutes. Pictured are Monarch’s management team and the company’s stand builders in Hall A1 MOZAMBIQUE PLAN UK consultant Roy Parker is at ITMA this week to carry out a World Bank feasability study on installing a complete spinning plant in Mozambique. “This will be a diifferent type of spinning plant,” he said. “I’ve been talking to Rieter, Schlafhorst, Savio and Truetzschler with a view to them putting together costs for a plant to produce 120,000 tons annual of raw cotton lint adjacent to a ginning plant and surrounded by farms owned by the company involved” It is initially planned to have five spinning lines, 25% of which will be the new Roller Air spinning technology which is being promoted by Mr Parker. Printed in association with Knitting International, International Dyer and Textile Month 17 WATER WIZARDRY The latest Drycom moisture measurement and control system from Streat Instruments has been designed to provide advanced functionality and ease of use. The new on-line system is modular, allowing for flexibility in configuration, with a compact colour touchscreen for operator interface and trending of data and a costeffective OEM ‘black box’ variant for seamless integration into OEM control systems or existing plant SCADA systems. The popular off-line Labcom system has also received a full upgrade – again offering colour touchscreen operator interface and advanced PC connectivity and software. Sensors are available to allow testing of moisture from loose fibre through to finished fabric and garments. A number of new applications have been developed for the Streat Drycom system including: ● Carpet weight checks Normally moisture tests of weight check samples for carpets are tedious, time consuming and subject to weighing, drying and operator error. Drycom provides immediate, accurate and non-destructive moisture results. ● Carpet backing For synthetic carpets, the backing process can be incredibly energy intensive operation. Over or under drying can result in quality problems including de-lamination. Drycom prevents these problems and provides accurate and immediate information to allow for much better control of the process – energy savings alone provide short payback periods. ● Nonwovens Nonwoven processors working with hygroscopic fibres such as cotton and viscose benefit significantly from the implementation of Streat systems. Many major healthcare and sanitary product manufacturers use Streat systems to ensure optimum product quality. Spunlace processors working with fibres such as cotton or viscose (or blends with polyester) also reap significant benefits. The Factory Wizard range of products starts with a simple plant monitoring system to record parameters in the mill such as temperature, humidity etc., and goes up to a full plant SCADA system. The most popular entry level system is basically a PC-based chart recorder which replaces the conventional pen chart recorders that were traditionally offered to provide a hard copy record of moisture and dryer control parameters. The new Streat Factory Wizard PCbased chart recorder system offered Labcom Series 8 off-line moisture measurement system by Streat Instruments offers offer significant benefits including: ● Multiple inputs mean many more plant variables can be recorded and trended. ● Real time line graphs (trends) and data screens on PC. ● Different screens can be assigned to separate groups of inputs (eg. in different areas of the plant). ● Batch and continuous recording. ● Batch reporting. ● All data stored to disk. ● Data can be recalled for historical analysis and tracking. ● Total time run and downtime reporting. ● Hard copy to printer as required. ● Alarm and event handling. ● Multi level passwords for security. ● User log on audit. ● Easily expandable to allow more inputs or to upgrade to a full SCADA system. ScourWizard has been developed specifically for wool scours but the concept can (and has been) be applied to a huge range of industries. All parameters from the scouring plant (plant status, feedrate, speeds, chemical addition, temperature etc) are brought to one central location to enable trending, reporting and centralised recipe based control Moisture is a critical factor in many application areas and processes. By measuring the moisture significant benefits can be obtained. ● Further information: [email protected] Streat Drycom moisture sensors on bleached cotton dryer 18 ITMA Daily News - Issue 6 ITMA show news THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION BELCORO ASSURANCE Oerlikon Schlafhorst's Autocoro S 360, the first rotor spinning machine equipped with DigiPiecing, offers top productivity performance with 360 spinning positions, take-up speeds of up to 230 m/min and rotor speeds of up to 130,000 rpm. Its spinbox is the market-leading Corobox SE 12. With its Twin Disc bearing and the Magnetic Rotor Positioning System (MRPS), it guarantees maximum productivity and Belcoro yarn quality for a large range of yarn counts, raw materials, blends and applications. The Autocoro S 360 offers the optimum prerequisites for Belcoro certification. Spinning mills can consequently derive the maximum benefit from the Belcoro brand and from the advantages of the most sought-after rotor yarns in the world. DigiPiecing provides double quality assurance with digital SDTU Single Drive Take Up, SDSI Single Drive Sliver Intake and Corolab XQ. These guarantee piecings that are indistinguishable from the parent yarn -100 % digitally controlled, 100 % digitally checked. The result is maximum piecing precision, infinitely reproducible on each single spinning position. The marketleading Corolab XQ digital yarn monitoring system in the Autocoro S 360 guarantees consistently checked yarns. The intelligent operating concept on the Autocoro S 360 saves inspection patrols - each spinning position indicates its production Oerlikon Schlafhorst sold the first ten new Autocoro S360 machines to Pallipalayam Spinners in Erode, India,. here at ITMA. status by a coloured LED signal, visible even at a distance. In addition, all machine settings are entered centrally, securely and simply on the Informator touch screen. With EVA (Electronic Vacuum Adjustment), the Autocoro S 360 additionally ensures a constant spinning vacuum, reducing the number of yarn breaks and the energy requirements. ITMA show news THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION Left to right: Havertex/Beck general managers Andreas Kirschbickler, Oliver Beck and Simon Balconi and Salvatore Giustolisi, also of the company SINKER-FREE FINE FABRICS There are almost 70 Swiss exhibitors here at ITMA 2007 with combined space of around 7,900 square metres. The current climate for Swiss textile machinery manufacturers is still very good indeed, reports Dr Lukas Sigrist of the organisation. The global value of Swiss-exported textile machinery climbed by 10% in 2006 to reach a total value of Sfr 2.1 billion. Pictured at the swissmem booth yesterday are Katharina Reichner, Dr Lukas Sigrist and Sabine Küchle. Printed in association with Knitting International, International Dyer and Textile Month Havertex, the manufacturer of Beck circular knitting machines plans to expand its production by 30-40% in the next year, according to general manager Oliver Beck. He said the company’s stand had attracted a lot of interest from Europe, South American, the US and Indian customers, with big orders coming in. The company’s display includes the Havertex Beck BSM 2100 circular knitting machine, which enables very fine gauge fabrics to be knit without sinkers, said general manager Simon Balconi. “It makes it possible to knit very special fabric which is like a second skin and is very soft,” he added. The 62-gauge machine has been successfully running in factories for six months. “There are no vertical lines in the fabric because there is no space for sinkers in this kind of gauge,” said Mr Beck. The machine on display was an open width 2100mm equipped with a Memminger navigation system. 21 THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION ITMA show news Mannequins showing garments produced by Santoni's seamless knitting machines in its fashion and technology area SEAMLESS OUTERWEAR HIT AT ITMA Santoni is showcasing the latest circular knitting technology for seamless outerwear garments at its stand and as well as interest from European manufacturers, has attracted many South American, Indian and Far Eastern visitors. The company has a large fashion area on its stand, featuring mannequins kitted out with the wide range of outerwear that can be knitted on its machines. Sales area manager Marco Poddine described how the latest machines can knit outerwear in one-third the time taken by a flat knitting machine. “These garments are normally manufactured using flat bed machines but the garment takes longer to produce.” Finer gauges are also possible using circular knitting machines enabling manufacturers to meet the latest trends towards fine gauge garments. New models on Santoni’s stand designed to make such garments include the SM9-MF. “This has a totally redesigned knitting head compared with the previous model and modular feed. It can be customised. For example a customer can order a machine with six feeds on the cylinder and three on the dial or maybe a 12feed cylinder depending on what they make.” The machine on display at ITMA is an 18-gauge machine which will be in production by the end of this year or early next year, according to Mr Poddine. “By the end of next year we will have a 20-gauge machine Right: Charles Jacob, Vignoni sales manager with the Vignoni Iris striper 22 available. This will be suitable for fine lingerie production and also outerwear and silk knitting for high quality markets such as Italy, Germany, Austria and Japan. Also showcased is Santoni’s bestselling SM8-TOP2 in 40-gauge. “This follows customer requests for light fabric, soft, high quality underwear or fabric to make ladieswear,” he said. The machine can also be used for swimwear and activewear. “It produces garments with high stretch but without being transparent,” he explained. Mr Poddine also showed ITMA Daily News a bra and sports skirt knitted by the company’s SM4TL2 model. “The bra can be knitted completely and it is only necessary to join the straps,” he explained. The sports skirt was also complete, including pants with joining only required at the gusset. Santoni’s SM8-TOP1V was also on display with a maximum speed of 150rpm possible in production, said Mr Poddine. “Its only limitation is it is only suitable for manmade fibres, not cotton.” Santoni’s large diameter circular knitting arm, Vignoni had five machines on display in its section of the stand. Among these, adding a blaze of colour to the display was the Vignoni Iris, single jersey striper machine with 48 feeds and up to six colours/feed. Charles Jacob, sales director of Santoni explained how the machine is user-friendly. “For the first time there is no cam or actuator for colour selection, the striping device is truly electronic. You can change colour quickly wherever and whenever you want.” Another breakthrough is the holdingdown jacks system on the Atlas model, which has no sinkers. The system stops the fabric from rising when the needle rises, explained Mr Jacob. “In fine gauge fabrics there are problems with vertical lines and enlarged stitches when using machines with sinkers. The only solution is to form the stitch directly on the cylinder. When doing this it is difficult to stop the fabric. “Our technical people developed a solution - a holding down jack which holds the fabric down when the needle is up to avoid the fabric going up with the needle.” The holding-down jack system facilitates stitch knock-over, allows work at 88 knit feeds in 30in and makes knitting restart fast and easy after press-off, according to the company. FAULT DETECTION IN 3D Carpet weavers will benefit from new software packages designed to help them tackle weaving faults and allow customers to view products on-line. Iranian-based Booria CAD/CAM systems has developed software which shows a three dimensional view of a carpet cross section, allowing manufacturers to easily create their own weave sets, explained Gholamreza Salamati, the company’s marketing manager. “Design information is transferred to Carpet Weaver software helping the technician convert the design into data for manufacturing purposes. It can create all weave sets.” Technicians can see the weave in graphical format and eliminate mistakes before manufacture or create their own effects. “Usually, manufacturers use predefined weaves but with this software they can easily vary carpets. It eliminates the boundaries in carpet weaving,” he said. Key customers for the software include Turkey, Iran and the US. The company has also developed Web Builder software which provides opportunities for carpet manufacturers to present their carpet galleries online to customers, said Mr Salamati. “This could allow on-line shopping and ordering and allows the manufacturer to offer different levels of service for different customers such as gold, silver and platinum. These could offer different levels of discount for different customers, for example.” The software allows offers different report options such as top sellers and new designs and scope to present technical information for each carpet, as well as options to view it in 3D. Finally, the company has invented Robotuft software, making it easier to prepare carpet designs for hand tuft robot made carpets, added Mr Salamati. Gholamreza Salamati, Booria marketing manager with Robotuft software ITMA Daily News - Issue 6 THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION ITMA show news DailyNews FAREWELL OFFER 6 MONTHS EXTRA FREE Here’s a big thank you from the ITMA Daily News team for your complimentary comments over the past few days. To celebrate our final edition, World Textile Publications have a special offer on new subscriptions to any of their market-leading series of textile magazines and newsletters. Take this copy of ITMA Daily News to any WTP stand: See tomorrow’s products today! Future Materials is a must-have magazine for higher management in businesses aiming to be at the forefront of product innovation in the 21st Century. It offers the latest materials news, R&D and product launches in an easy to digest format with a broad appeal across the entire value chain. Reporting on the fusion of disciplines in technical textiles, plastics, films, composites, coatings and laminates, Future Materials focuses on innovation in materials technology and applications. From the latest developments in polymer science, to biological and nanotechnology plus combinations with IT and electronics, Future Materials examines the ideas that will shape the products of tomorrow. Subscribe now! Take advantage of our 25% ITMA discount offer. ● International Dyer – Hall B1 Stand 444 ● Textile Month – Hall A4 Stand 134 ● Knitting International – Hall A1 Stand 118 and, in addition to the 25% ITMA discount, you will receive an extra six months on a new subscription to a WTP publication of your choice. We hope you enjoy the remainder of the show and look forward to seeing you again in Shanghai! 24 12 monthly issues, available in your choice of either printed or digital copy: Worldwide: €379.00 less 25% - Just €284.00 Simply contact Sue Pritchard by visiting Hall B1, Stand 444 ● Hall A4, Stand 134 ● Hall A1, Stand 118 or email [email protected] Tel: +44 (0)1274 378801. Fax: +44 (0)1273 378811 ITMA Daily News - Issue 6 Thank you for joining the Circle of Innovation Thanks to Adrian, Ron, Ed and the Daily News team for doing a great job on the ITMA Daily News... see you in Shanghai! d n . u . . o r A e Show th 26 ITMA Daily News - Issue 1 ITMA show news THE PLACE FOR INNOVATION Diary of Events Dates Event September 2007 13 – 20 16 – 17 17 – 17 18 – 21 24 – 27 26 – 28 27 – 30 ITMA 2007. New Munich Trade Fair Centre. Munich, Germany. Contact: Munchen Gmbh. Tel: + 49 89 949 114 28. e-mail: [email protected] The Off Price Show. Trade event for discount and clearance clothing, footwear, sportswear and accessories. Olympia, London, UK. e-mail: [email protected] Website: www.offpriceshow.co.uk Texworld worldwide fabrics ‘Rendez-vous’ International meeting place for the textile industry. Paris, Le Bouget. Website: www.interstoff.messe.frankfurt.com/texworld Le Cuir a Paris 2007. Leather & Fur Fair. Paris Nord – Villepinti. Tel: 0033 (0) 48 63 30 30. Fax: 0033 (0) 48 63 33 70 INTC 2007. Joint INDA and TAPPI conference. International Nonwovens Technical Conference. Renaissance Waverley Hotel , Atlanta, Georgia, USA. Contact: Deanna Lovell at INDA Tel: 001(919) 233-1210. Fax: 001 (919) 233-1282. e-mail: [email protected] Website: www.inda.org EDANA OUTLOOK 2007. Personal Care Products. Conference Hotel, Cascais Miragem, Cascais, Lisbon, Portugal. Contact: Natacha Defeche, Marketing Manager. Tel: 0032 2 734 93 10. Fax: 0032 2 733 35 18. e-mail: [email protected] Website: www.edana.org Milanovendemoda. Fieramilanocity. Website: www.milanovendamoda.expocts.it October 03 – 05 03 – 05 04 – 06 08 – 08 09 – 11 10 – 12 10 – 13 10 – 13 16 – 18 22 – 24 22 – 24 24 – 25 24 – 25 29 – 31 29 – 01 IFAI EXPO 07. Speciality fabrics show. Las Vegas, USA. Contact: IFAI. Tel: +1 651 222 2508. e-mail: [email protected] Interstoff Asia. Esential-Autumn, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong. Website: www.interstroff.messefrankfurt.com Balkan Gate Apparel & Textile Exhibition. Ready made and knitwear. Textile yarns, accessories and auxiliary materials for tailoring. Inter Expo & Congress Centre, Sofia , Bulgaria. Website: www.bgateexpo.com Medical Textiles Network and Biocomplicity. The importance of Medical Textiles with respect to use, protective, performance, costs, societal benefits and enviromental impacts. University of California, Davis CA, USA. Website: www.thefibersociety.org 2007 Fiber Society Fall Conference. Papers on fundamental research related to the science and engineering of fibres and fibrous materials are being solicited for the conference. University of California, Davis , CA , USA. Contact: e-mail: Pam [email protected] Website: www.thefibersociety.org Textextil India. Mumbai India. Contact: Messe Frankfurt Tel: 0049 69 7575 5889. Fax: 0049 69 7575 6541. e-mail: [email protected] Website: www.messefrankfurt.com Texworld India. Bombay Exhibition Centre, Western Express Highway, Goregaon (East), Mumbai India. Website: www.interstoff.messefrankfurt.com/texworldindia SibFashion–SibTextile. Novosibirsk Russia. Contact: Tel: 007 (0) 3832/255151. Fax: 007 (0) 3832/259845. e-mail: [email protected] Website: www.sibfair.ru The Link with India International Conference. Renaissance Mumbai. Hotel & Convention Centre, Mumbai India. Contact: INDA. Tel: 001 (919) 233-1210. Fax: 001 (919) 233-1282. e-mail: [email protected] Website: www.inda.org Shanghai International Nonwovens Conference & Exhibition. Intex Shanghai. Shanghai, China. Contact: Tel: 00852 2827 6211. Fax: 00852 2827 7831 SINCE 2007. International Nonwovens conference and exhibition Intex Exhibition Centre, Shanghai. Contact: CNTA Science & Technology. Tel: +86 21 6464 558 2147. Fax: +86 21 6481 2993. e-mail: [email protected] ECMOD 2007. Earls Court Exhibition Centre, London, UK. Contact: Tel: 0044 (0) 1271 866112. Fax: 0044 (0) 1271 866040. e-mail: [email protected] Website: www.ecmod.com Nonoparticles for European Industry II. Olympia Conference Centre, London. Contact: Gemma McCulloch. Tel: 0044 (0) 1786 447520. Fax: 0044 (0) 1786 447530. e-mail: [email protected] Website: www..nano.org.uk/conferences Yarn Expo. Shanghai, China/ International Trade Fair for Fibres and Yarns. Shanghai International Convention Centre, Shanghai China. Website: www.interstoff.messe.frankfurt.com/global Intertextile Shanghai. Apparel Fabrics. Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China. Contact: Tel: 0086 21 2890 6666. Fax: 0086 21 6856 6777. e-mail: [email protected] Website: www.imessefrankfurt.com Printed in association with Knitting International, International Dyer and Textile Month 27