ba (hons) footwear product design

Transcription

ba (hons) footwear product design & development
final major project
euphemia
a concept collection exploring sustainable product
proposals for luxury footwear. materials, construction,
aesthetic and product life have been examined and
redesigned. the concept wedge icica relies on the principle of modular construction and mechanical grip to
replace glue. the result is a striking shoe with
components which can be separated
(and recycled/ biodegraded) post consumption.
NATURE MEETS TECHNOLOGY TO
REDEFINE LUXURY
materials have been heavily reconsidered and all
cow leathers are organically tanned using traceable hides
from british soil association certified organic cattle.
exotics of fish and ostrich leg are sustainably sourced,
a guaranteed meat industry by-product and produced in a
tannery using naturally occuring geothermal enegergy.
sole units are transparent bioresin, made from
sustainable plant sources. even packaging is considered
with bamboo fleece bags and embossed recycled boxes.
helen furber is a final year ba footwear product design
student at cordwainers london college of fashion.
following work experience including y-3/slvr adidas and
nicholas kirkwood, the euphemia colllection marks the
start of an independant design career and realisation of
personal design goals.
concept board
utilising sports footwear technology,
original components were developed in
collaboration with y-3 adidas. once
modelled using cad software, components
were then rapid prototyped and moulded.
the result is a modular construction
system which is both a more sustainable
method of construction and a visually
striking product.
detail & inspiration board
ICICA
concept wedge
modular pin construction
ICICA
COMPONENT SPECIFICATION: PINBED
fall/winter 11/12
PINBED AA SECTION
notes
17MM
last:(SL) 1698 point
sole components:ic1
contact:helen furber
notes:
BIO RESIN CASTING
3D MODEL #2
component
1mm allowance
between pin bed
and wedge for upper
4MM
6MM
component spec
structural pins
3D LAST BOTTOM GUAGE
3d cad modelling
bioresin pinbed
tooling construction
organic leather sock upper
bioresin wedge
bioresin grips
concept wedge
photographs by david abrahams
modular pin construction
concept wedge
with special thanks to every idividual and company who
helped make this project a reality.
in particular:
nic galway (Y-3 adidas)
leonid larianov (Y-3 adidas)
sasha hoffman (Y-3 adidas)
michelle houghton (Y-3 adidas)
olga and her team (adidas)
maurice taylor (adidas)
kees van der graaf
pawel wocial (studio van der graaf)
david sweeney (industrial designer)
peter hill (lcf digital fashion studio)
philip delamore (lcf researcher)
natalie fisher (stylist)
david abrahams (photographer)
ilona ludewig-mack (natureally leather)
trever gill (that’s shoe biz)
summeet bellara (iom3 materials technologist)
oli (idc models)
maj wiboe-engelmark, andy money & elliot rayner
david saunders
my family for their hugely generous & never ending support
[email protected]
www.helenfurber.com
shoekitchen.blogspot.com
+44 7531 027 433
www.Y-3.com
www.sahobfg.com
www.van-der-graaf.co.uk
www.davidsweeneydesign.com
www.fashion.arts.ac.uk/digital_fashion_studio.htm
www.davidabrahams.co.uk
www.natalie-fisher.co.uk
www.natureally.co.uk
www.iom3.org
www.idc.uk.com
sponsored by:
sketchbook & development
sketchbook inspiration
primary consumer research
primary consumer research
concept development
concept development
design development
design development
design development
rhino cad component development
rendered models of components & screenshots from animation
ICICA
COMPONENT SPECIFICATION: LEATHER INSOLE
fall/winter 11/12
notes
AA SECTION
C SECTION
sole components:ic1
notes:
LEATHER COLOUR TO MATCH LINING
component
MOULDED INSOLE
LAST
1MM
5MM
EMBOSSED LOGO
INSOLE FITS DIRECTLY
TO THE LAST.
10MM
20MM
PINBED
ER
RB
FU
EN
L
HE
M
5M
3M
M
BEVED, POLISEHD EDGES
15MM
ICICA
COMPONENT SPECIFICATION: PINBED
fall/winter 11/12
PINBED AA SECTION
notes
17MM
sole components:ic1
notes:
BIO RESIN CASTING
3D MODEL #2
component
1mm allowance
between pin bed
and wedge for upper
4MM
6MM
structural pins
3D LAST BOTTOM GUAGE
ICICA
fall/winter 11/12
COMPONENT SPECIFICATION: UPPER
cow/chiffon
ostrich
cow nubuck
cow nubuck
upper
toe/binding
foxing
lining
trimmed lining
5mm ostrich leather
sports binding
notes
sole components:ic1
notes:
chiffon rushed upper
fitted to nubuck cow upper
ykk stainless steel
double ended stretch zip
single upper piece with
no back seam
stitch & turn on all
seams unless otherwise stated
component
ostrich leg toe cap
cut with scales diminishing
WHITE SHOE
stitch & turn lining
3/4 reveal stitch
and turn on topline
cow
cow
ostrich
cow
stitch & turn cow leather upper
upper
toe/wings
foxing
lining
ykk stainless steel
double ended stretch zip
stitch & turn on all
seams unless otherwise stated
ostrich leg toe cap
BLACK SHOE
ostrich leg counter,
ICICA
COMPONENT SPECIFICATION: WEDGE & GRIPS
fall/winter 11/12
FRONT PERSPECTIVE
AA SECTION
REAR PERSPECTIVE
1mm
notes
sole components:ic1
notes:
53MM
D
CROSS SECTIONS
D
BIO RESIN CASTING
3D MODEL #2
component
C
B
13MM
C
25MM
15MM
B
9MM
60MM
35MM
3MM
50MM
25MM
9MM
9MM
1MM
60MM
47MM
25MM
35MM
40MM
35MM
50MM
FOREPART GRIP
WEDGE SOLE
HEEL GRIP
(BA) Hons Product Design and Development for the Fashion Industries:
Cordwainers Footwear
Year 4: (2009/10)
FUR06184972
concept
development
helen furber
1.introduction
Q: “Do you think that eco luxury has a future?” A: “I think that’s an investment opportunity!” -Martin
Raymond, co-founder of The Future Laboratory & editor of Viewpoint Magazine (Appendix 3)
This report investigates the current state of the Luxury Footwear Market and niche but expanding
Ethical Fashion Market; exploring a potential hybrid business opportunity.
Research concentrates on the European luxury goods sector with London a key focus and centre
for research.
2.executive summary
In a new-found era of frugality, the Luxury Goods Market must respond to new consumer
attitudes towards consumption, addressing both the design of products aesthetically, and their
business practise. Products must offer value in a truly luxurious sense: Experience, Quality,
Craftsmanship, and increasingly sustainability.
Despite the economic downturn ethics is still high on the social agenda and consumers expect
companies to tackle the problems for them, via product and business innovation. Luxury
consumers are concerned about social responsibility, and will expect it to be addressed.
A significant business opportunity has presented itself with the discovery of a viable Organic leather
supplier. No other ethical or luxury brand currently uses Soil Association Certified Organic leather in their
products.
Stella McCartney is the only established global luxury brand to have clearly adopted an ethical stance
towards fashion, and to be utilising Organic and Sustainable materials within collections. Within footwear,
all products are Vegan and do not use leather or animal products. However luxury consumers consider
leather a sign of product quality; Organic leather would be a way to capture the socially responsible luxury
consumer who still wishes to consume leather goods. It’s an untapped market and could prove lucrative.
Ethical or not, Design and Quality are the number one factors when purchasing luxury footwear. Innovation
in design aesthetics as well as sustainability must be undertaken to capture the market.
3.methodology
Research Methodology incorporated Primary and Secondary research findings in both the Luxury
Footwear and Ethical/Organic Sectors. Consumers and Industry figures from both sectors were
consulted.
3.1 primary research
i. consumer
Original quantitative and qualitative Consumer research was undertaken in London in September
2009 and targeted two main consumer groups: Existing Organic Food Consumers and existing
Luxury Goods Consumers.
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Organic Consumers
Forty Organic Food consumers were targeted at multiple establishments selling Organic
meat/groceries/food across London. Locations were selected from East to West and were
chosen to include different levels of affluence in order to establish differing attitudes and
spending habits. Consumers took part in a questionnaire (Appendix 13) which aimed to establish
attitudes towards organic meat consumption, the reaction to (proposed) organic leather and
gain an insight into current footwear spending habits and lifestyle.
Surveys were conducted at different times in the day to include those in full-time working
professions, and in differing locations across London to gain an insight into attitudes across
different wealth categories.
Luxury Goods Consumers
Luxury goods consumers were targeted at established luxury department stores across London
including Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges and Dover Street Market. Due to the difficulty in
engaging luxury consumers, six participants took part in an extended questionnaire (Appendix 7)
and informal interview, which aimed to establish current spending habits in luxury footwear,
general lifestyle/affluence, and attitudes towards ethical fashion, organic meat and organic
leather.
24 hour consumer snapshot: Willing participants were given a disposable camera and invited to
record their personal lives and surroundings over a 24 hour period. This was collected and used
to create a visual profile of the consumer from their perspective (see sketchbook) culminating in
a visual consumer profile (Appendix 19)
ii. industry
Luxury
Industry contact was initiated at the London College of Fashion “2010 Future Trend Webinar”
(Appendix 3) hosted by Martin Raymond (The Future Laboratory, Editor Viewpoint Magazine),
Tony Glenville (Colour Analyst and Fashion Journalist) and Jane Kellock (WGSN Senior Trend
Analyst). Informal trade research was also undertaken at various opportunities including London
Fashion Week Sep 09, Dover Street Market, Harrods and Y-3 adidas/Nicholas Kirkwood
internships.
Ethical/Organic
Industry contact in the Ethical Fashion sector was initiated with the attendance of a Forum at the
V&A (Fashion Matters: Ethics in Fashion) hosted by Sarah Ratty (Ethical Fashion Label Ciel
Founder/Designer), Matilda Lee (Journalist – The Ecologist) and Christian Kemp Lewis (CEO of
EDUN) (Appendix). Ethical Retailer Equa (London) was also interviewed (Appendix). Informal
trade and consumer research was also undertaken at the “Underground Ethical Catwalk”
(London) September 2009 (See Appendix 10).
3.2 secondary research
Desk research was undertaken using Mintel Market Reports, Verdict Market Reports, WGSN Trend
Prediction, Fashion Industry Press, International Press, Independent Organisations from specific
fields (e.g The Luxury Institute, The Soil Association), consumer and trade association statistics
and government statistics.
“Culture Brailing” and “Viral Networking” techniques (Raymond, 2003) such as blog interaction
and the 24-hour consumer snapshot (see Primary Consumer research) were also adopted in
order to gain a more tactile insight into consumer and market feelings, and allow interaction
“rather than reaction”
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4. luxury goods market
4.1 global market summary
“The definition of luxury goods is changing as consumers demand more from them... One cannot
deny that the luxury industry is at a defining moment in its history.” (Luxury Institute, 2009)
The Global Luxury Goods Market equated to €224.5bn globally in 2008 (Verdict, June 2009).
Prior to the Financial Crisis (See appendix 1, 1.I) Luxury was thriving with LVMH CEO Bernard
Arnault predicting “explosive growth over the next five years” in 2007 (Brown. 2007). However by
February 2009 many luxury brands recorded double digit losses in the fourth quarter of 2008
(retailerdaily.com 2009).
i. regional markets
Regional markets occupy different stages of maturity (see 1.II/appendix 1,) with Europe the
market leader - worth €86bn and 38% of global spend (Verdict 2009). This report will focus on
the European market as a market leader in innovation and the proposed footwear concept would
launch from London.
ii. wealth/socio-economics
“Luxury is no longer a single-tiered proposition”
(The Future Laboratory, 2007).
Luxury consumers are generally high wealth consumers and can be divided into wealth groups:
HNWIs, (High New Worth Individuals) UHNWIs (Ultra High Net Worth Individuals) and NMAs (New Mass
Affluents), and “Aspirational”. (see 1. III/appendix 1).
Adopting the ACORN classification system (caci 2003), luxury consumers would fit into the ABC1
categories of “Wealthy Executives”, “Affluent Greys” and “Flourishing Families” (See Appendix 2).
4.2 factors affecting the luxury goods market
i. financial
Following the effects of the 2008 financial crisis global economies and wealth have changed with
dramatic consequence for luxury goods. (See IV/Appendix 1)
Reduction in global wealth
Global GDP dropped 1.9% at the end of 2008 to 2%, (Merrill Lynch 2009). At the end of 2008,
the world’s population of high net worth individuals (HNWIs) was down14.9% from the year
before, while their wealth had dropped 19.5%. (Merill Lynch 2009).
ii. social/cultural
frugality
The wake of the financial crisis has left many European countries in recession, which has
severely affected consumer confidence in spending. 2008 saw “frugality come to the fore”
(Verdict, June 2009) with cconsulting group Bain & Co. declaring consumers are now suffering
from “luxury shame” - delaying the recovery of the luxury-goods industry (Passariello 2009).
Luxury retailers report that consumers are now looking for products to last longer than for a short
season, (Verdict June 2009) signalling a move away from the “fast fashion of recent years”, a
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feeling echoed by industry. At the 2008 WWD summit, Alber Ebaz (Lanvin Creative Director)
declared, “Why is it that we sell fur coats in June and a bathing suit in January? .. I think that it’s
time to go back to the essence. It’s time to start reflecting.” (WWD 2008 p10)
A spending slowdown means that luxury brands have to work harder to convince consumers to
buy. As a backlash to the lower quality, entry price offerings luxury brands had been capitalizing
on with aspirational consumers, the truly wealthy are likely to look for quality, subtlety, and
“embark on a move to understatement” (Verdict, June 2009).
“People are looking for lasting quality not throwaway. Think of heirlooms. Luxury should
be like buying a new heirloom. Something that employs real craftspeople” - Tony Glenville
(appendix 4)
Innovation in fashion communication
The opening up of a trade event to consumers, a move away from the traditional catwalk format
and the blurring of seasonal collections, were key strategic approaches to emerge from the
recent round of fashion weeks.” (Rumsay, 2009)
Following the effects of recession, designers downsized and many explored new ways to
showcase collections. The increasing adoption of the internet in both luxury retailing and
communication (e.g. blogs and live catwalk show streaming like Alexander McQueen SS10)
mean that the public now have instant access to collections and designers are adopting it as a
means of interaction. Rodarte designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy, recently invited 13 year old
blogger Tavi Gevinson to their catwalk show and Marc Jacob’s famously named a bag after
blogger bryanboy, (Rosman 2009) catapulting him to fame and signalling widespread
acceptance of bloggers as a respected group within the industry.
In order to maintain exclusivity and still appeal to the wealthy consumer, luxury brands will have
to formulate new strategies to evolve their business and communication with customers, as well
as innovating in product development to distinguish themselves from new players. Online retail is
a necessity for any luxury brands that previously rejected it.
considerate consumption: “eco” and social responsibility
“A resounding 35% [of affluent Britains]say their high income makes them more responsible
and socially and ethically aware” (Futures Laboratory 2008 p.18)
With the media spotlight on sustainability, and social conscience, the public are increasingly
concerned about where products are manufactured, materials they are made from, and how much
they consume (Verdict July 2007). In a recent White Paper, The Luxury Institute stated,
“For luxury goods that are not a necessity, it will be especially critical to prove social
responsibility at the highest levels.” (Luxury Institute 2009 p. 18).
Tom Ford speaking at the 2007 IHT Luxury conference declared, "Luxury is not going out of
style. It needs to change its style.. We need to replace hollow with deep.”
4.3 luxury footwear
Fashion/Clothing is the largest sector in luxury goods and in 2008 generated approximately
€96.3bn (Verdict, June 2009). Within Fashion/Clothing, Handbags and Shoes (Accessories) are
lucrative - where “accessories often generate a disproportionate share of [collection] profits.”
(Verdict, June 2009). Mintel Predicts, “As it-bag fatigue sets in. Shoes, or watches and jewellery
are seen as the likely heirs”. (Mintel 2008).
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The majority of luxury footwear offerings are from established apparel brands who have
diversified. There are however a number of key footwear-specific companies – often heritage
brands – who have established themselves in the ready-to-wear market (e.g. Christian
Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo) and a rising number of new key players (Nicholas Kirkwood,
Camilla Skovgaard. Brand positioning analysed market prominence, against price and design
aesthetic (Appendix 4)
i. consumer research
Primary market research in luxury footwear was undertaken in September 2009. (See
Methodology 3.1 I). Research Analysis (Appendix 5), Research Raw Data (Appendix 6).
Key Findings:
Two core consumer groups were established: “Experimentals” and “Settleds” (See
Appendix 5: 9)
100% of Experimental consumers shopped at least once a week, travel frequently “for
recreation” (despite the recession), spend on average £250 - £500 per pair of shoes and
buy 1 –2 pairs per month (see Appendix 5: 7.8,10). They were typically younger
consumers, aged 20 – 27, living alone, and favouring more avant-garde design.
“Settled” consumers were at a later “life-stage”, all were married, all had children, and
all said they shopped “Once a month” or “When I have time”. They tended to prefer
more traditional design aesthetics, for example from brands like Prada and Brian
Atwood. (Appendix _ 1-7, 9).
When purchasing footwear, Design and Quality were the most important factors between
both consumer groups. (See Appendix 5: 11)
Whilst only 33% of consumers already purchase “ethical/organic” fashion, of those that
don’t at least 50% commented that they would buy more if there were more
choice/better quality available. (See Appendix, 5:12)
4.4 key outcomes
“Women are not going to stop shopping; they are going to shop differently” Albar Elbaz (WWD,
2008 p12)
Entering an era of “conscious consumption”, luxury goods must respond to consumer attitudes
and newly raised expectations, addressing both the design of products and their business
practise.
Products must offer value in a luxury sense: Experience, Quality, Craftsmanship, and provide the
luxury consumer with the solution they are looking for.
In a business which relies on traditional practises and heritage, brands must learn to react to
new consumer behaviour and technology quickly, and embrace it - as opposed to resisting it as
previously – in order to remain competitive.
Luxury consumers are concerned about social responsibility and will increasingly expect it to be
addressed.
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5. ethical & organic market
For the purpose of this report, Ethical products are products which take into consideration the impact
of production on the environment and those manufacturing them.
Organic refers to “produce and other ingredients grown without the use of pesticides, synthetic
fertilizers, sewage sludge, genetically modified organisms, or ionizing radiation. Animals that
produce meat, poultry, eggs, and dairy products do not take antibiotics or growth hormones.”
(organic.org 2009)
5.1 green is here to stay
“Household expenditure on ethical goods and services has almost doubled in the past five years:
an increase of 81%” (Co-Operative Bank 2007 p.5)
In response to the growing concern over climate change, environmental and ethical issues have been
pressed upon consumers by the media, governments and society at large: “Across eight separate
indicators, between 1999 and 2007, UK consumers, across all age groups, reported an
increased predisposition to ethical behaviours” (Co-Operative Bank 2007 p4).
“Consumers want a more sustainable approach. A higher global awareness of issues
has made it increasingly appropriate for companies to invest in more ethical processes
and sustainability.” - Paul Taylor Senior apparel designer, Puma. (Drapers, 2009)
5.2 market summary
“Six per cent of the UK adult population (2.8 million people) are committed ethical consumers,
shopping for ethical products and services every week” (Co-Operative Bank 2007 p3).
The overall Ethical market in the UK was worth £32.3bn in 2007, an increase of 9% on 2006.
(Co-Operative Bank 2007 p4). The market can broadly be segmented as follows: Ethical food
and drink, Eco-travel and Transport, Ethical Personal Products, Community and Ethical Finance.
Despite the recession forcing people to curb spending on Organic products, Ipmost Moris
Research reports the underlying reasons for a shift in “considerate consumption” still exist, and
that “as of September [2008], three-quarters of the British public say it is more important for a
company to be responsible in tough economic times," (Davies 2009).
i. ethical fashion
“I think the consumer has to act responsibly in terms of the things he or she buys, and to start
limiting the demand on products that are environmentally unfriendly.” – Stella McCartney (Lee 2009)
There are four main facets of ethical fashion:
1. “Sustainable” Materials: Materials considered more environmentally friendly, often
adopting plant-based fibres, sometimes Organic (particularly where cotton is concerned)
and avoiding the use of ecologically damaging dyes/finishing products.
2. Recycled: “Up-cycling” or the re-use of existing garments/textiles into new products.
3. Ethical/Fair-trade supply chain: Ensuring manufacture of products does not exploit those
producing raw material/manufacturing final products.
4. Product Life-cycle: Addressing the life-cycle of the product and the effects of its
disposal after consumption.
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Fashion brands (such as Tom’s shoes or Merci in Paris) are also increasingly developing
business strategies based around Philanthropic retailing.
Despite being a small market, “non-ethical high street leaders including H&M, Topshop, and
Marks & Spencer, recently launched Organic Cotton ranges. Organic and ethical ranges can be
seen as a way of adding value in the same way designer and celebrity ranges have previously,
convincing the frugal to spend. However Martin Raymond warns, “At the moment “eco” is stuck
onto a product to try and sell. Ultimately brands will have to do it to exist.” (Appendix 3)
5.3 ethical footwear
i. market overview
(Brand Positioning Analysis: Appendix 8)
The ethical footwear market is still a relatively niche market. Few ethical footwear brands have
broken into the mainstream, and Stella McCartney is the only luxury brand to offer vegan
footwear (September 2009). “Ethical” footwear is used to describe many different approaches to
responsibility in footwear manufacturing, with the main category being Vegan/Vegetarian
footwear: Footwear made without the use of leather or animal products. (For Overview of the
Leather Industry and Issues in the Market see Appendix 9)
Increasingly other approaches have been adopted such as that of PoZu, who make
biodegradable slippers, Hetty Rose who makes bespoke footwear from recycled textiles and
many companies incorporating more sustainable materials such as recycled plastic, rubber,
organic, cotton and hemp etc. in products.
iii organic consumer research
Q: “So do you find it hard to find [vegan] shoes you like then?” A: “Yeah they tend to be really old
looking or just awful! That’s why I just buy the plastic ones” (Vegan consumer insight – Underground ethical
catwalk 2009 (Appendix)
Research into the Organic meat and ethical fashion consumer markets was undertaken in
London in September 2009 (See Methodology 3.1 I).
Key Findings:
The largest age categories were the younger categories suggesting younger but financially
secure consumers are the main Organic consumers. (See Appendix :1) The consumption of
Organic meat reduced according to affluence, signalled by Postcode. (See Appendix 20)
Main reasons for Organic meat consumption were for quality of meat (32%) followed by
welfare (27%) with 31% buying “most of the time”, and 24% “ every time”.
80% said they would but interested in Organic leather products if they were available with
the remaining 20% citing high price as a deterrent.
67.5% of Organic meat consumers do not currently buy ethical fashion, believing it to be
“old-looking”, “ugly” and “overpriced”, so design is still key.
When purchasing footwear, Quality and Comfort (both 72.5%) were the most important
factors, followed by Price (70%) and Design (60%).
5.4 key outcome
Despite buying Organic meat, consumers did not want to pay more for Organic footwear.
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i.the future of luxury is considered consumption.
100% of luxury consumers surveyed agreed they would buy Organic Leather products if the
Quality and Design were of a high enough standard; “there simply is nothing available!”
The Soil Association (SA) is the British body for certifying Organic Products. SA Organic
certification for animals means that besides the prohibited administration of hormones and
antibiotics (given to cattle), “animal cruelty is prohibited and a truly free-range life for farm
animals is guaranteed”. SA standards, “rigorously protect all aspects of animal well-being -
from rearing, feeding and shelter, to transportation and slaughter.”
As of September 2009, Natureally is the only tannery producing hides which could viably go into
production of footwear, traceably sourced from UK Soil Association Certified British beef cattle.
Skins are tanned using a Vegetable Tanning process (adopting the use of vegetable extracts as
opposed to chrome chemicals) in a German tannery, which is certified free of harmful
substances by German certification TUV (www.natureally.co.uk/origin).
6. concept proposal
We’re not trying to understand what the customer wants, but to bring our customers into our world,
to convince them via the product.” Patrick Tomas, President, Hermès. (Lucian, 2009 p.14)
6.1 summary
Following analysis of the ethical and luxury goods markets, an overlapping business opportunity
has been identified. Luxury consumers are trying to be more socially responsible, but cannot find
satisfactory products. The current Ethical footwear offerings do not compete with offerings in the
luxury footwear sector; the market is unchallenged.
As yet, no ethical or luxury brand has adopted the use of certified organic leather in their
products. Essentially, this is an entirely new market opportunity.
The cradle-to-cradle mindset in developing products and businesses must be adopted. Product
innovation and business will be designed to be as environmentally friendly as possible, and take
a clear stance on social responsibility. The life-cycle of products must be considered at the
design phase.
Innovation will be pushed forward with the use of rapid prototyping technology to explore new
methods of construction, simultaneously enhancing functionality, comfort and design aesthetics.
6.2 concept
i. technological innovation
“Design = Bottom Line. It’s not about pretty shapes, but about the function of those shapes. It’s
not about technology but about how high tech is applied through the product for the consumers
use.” Bruce Nusbaum. (Myerson, 2001 p.51)
There appears to be an opportunity for technology such as Rapid Prototyping/Smart Materials
adopted in the development of performance footwear to be applied to high-fashion footwear,
enhancing form and function. Y-3 (adidas) was the first brand to bridge the gap between sports
and fashion, and Balenciaga is possibly the only luxury brand exploring these processes in any
real depth. If technology could be utilised to enhance comfort or create bespoke elements in
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footwear, this could prove lucrative. The aesthetics of heritage adidas products and their crude
development is inspiring to explore, and combined with luxurious materials and a considered
approach to design should create a unique, avante-guard product (see initial visual concept
board: Appendix 15)
ii. organic/”ethical” leather
Consumers purchase Organic meat, why can’t they purchase Organic Leather?..
Whilst many consider leather to be unethical, luxury consumers are unwilling to give up it up (See
Appendix _, 12). Organic leather could bridge the gap between responsibility and luxury.
Upper, lining and sole bend leathers will be sourced from Natureally, offering a luxury product
using truly humanely and sustainably sourced leathers.
To supplement the demand for exotic skins which are often adopted in the luxury industry – and
which are wholly unethical – veg-tanned fish skin will be adopted. A by-product of the food
industry, Atlantic leathers is a small Icelandic tannery which sources skins from sustainable fish
stock killed for food and tans them using traditional vegetable tanning methods. Water use
(profuse in tanning) is sourced from a natural geothermal resource and electricity from a hydroelectric power station. (www.atlanticleather.is)
iii. sustainability concept
“Your products should not be compromised in any way just because they’re environmentally
friendly.”- Stella McCartney (Lee, M. 2009)
Upper
Outside of leather, any upper materials will be responsibly sourced. Triple layer warp knit mesh,
(most commonly found in sports performance shoes) will be developed using post-consumer
recycled PET, in bespoke panelling being both a functional and striking feature of the shoes. Any
Synthetic upper materials will also be sourced from recycled PET and kept to a minimum. Any
natural-fibre based materials will be organic.
Components
Internal components will be recycled where possible, for example insole boards (if used), and
any glues will be water based as opposed to solvent based.
Product Lifecycle
Where possible, research into product lifecycle will be undertaken, however as the nature of
luxury goods is that of longevity, more weight will be given to sustainable sourcing.
Packaging
Packaging will also be considered and recycled board for shoe boxes sourced to a high enough
quality. Footwear dust-bags will utilise organic cotton.
6.3 market strategy
i. usp
Technological Innovation + Organic Leather + Sustainability.. No other luxury brand has more
than one element at present.
ii. tows – strategic audit
TOWS analysis “allows the entrepreneur to design strategic solutions to the information
discovered through SWOT analysis.” (Gundry & Kickell 2007 p.41). TOWS analysis of the
concept proposal was undertaken and strategies for success explored. (See Appendix 16)
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iii. gap analysis
Brand positioning was explored with a gap analysis (Appendix 17). With no other direct
competitor in the Organic Leather Market, the potential for positioning is completely open.
Innovation and avante-guard design aesthetic was a key driver for the luxury consumers
surveyed, and remains central to the concept proposal. The exploration of rapid prototyping
techniques to explore new ways of innovation in construction, aiding comfort, functionality and
sustainable manufacturing will be a key aspect of design and a further USP. For that reason no
direct positioning has been established as no other brand is currently doing this - rather an
indication of where the brand might sit with competitors. Main Competitor Brands were analysed
individually. (see Appendix 18).
6.4 consumer
Following the outcome of consumer research, two core consumer groups were established.
Based on preference for avante-guard design, The Experimental Consumer group will be
targeted:
“experimental” Consumer Profile (appendix 19):
ACORN ABC1 classification/Parent ABC1
Aged 20 – 27
Lives Alone/Rents
Single/Partner but not Married
High Disposable Income
Working a well- paid job/affluent family
Well Educated
[Fashion]Shops at least once a week
Follows Fashion: Magazines, Blogs, Shops for real catwalk pieces
Looks for unique pieces (hence likes vintage)/avante-guard design
Mixes uber lux with high street cool, e.g. Converse/Hunter Wellies/Balenciaga in one
photo
Invests in health: Selective with food choices, buys Organic, high spend on beauty
products/cosmetics
Buys luxury at all levels from Groceries to toiletries/cosmetics as well as fashion
Values Design/Quality the most but increasingly considers ethics
6.5 further considerations
Product Mix/Range Planning
The range will consist of flat and heeled shoes for women. A balance between wearable and
more editorial/conceptual pieces will be met to ensure that press attention is gained and the
brand is firmly positioned in the luxury arena.
Price
Price will be high to position the brand in the luxury market and to cover the significantly more
expensive cost of Organic leather.
Place
Product will be launched in London and would initially retail through exclusive department store
channels/online to align the product with established luxury.
Manufacture
Manufacture would take place in Italy to ensure high quality and for intrinsic value of “Made in
Italy”.
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Marketing
Clear communication of brand values is imperative, as well as honesty and clarity in supply
chain. Following initial sampling a website would be developed and stylists/press consulted. Full
range development and sampling would take place in time for London Fashion Week October
2010. Showcasing of the shoes would be intended (possible alliance with newly launched “EcoCouture” brand Ada Zanditon one opportunity).
Depending on success an alternative approach might be to develop the range as a
diffusion/expansion of an existing luxury brand such as Balenciaga who has not yet approached
an ethical collection.
Advertising
Initial promotion of the brand would be via courting Fashion Press to establish the product on the
market.
Brand Appeal Focus Group
A focus group will be held with luxury consumers following development of branding ideas to
ensure correct identity is built.
Project Critical Path
(See Appendix)
6.6 conclusion
With the strategic launch of a luxury footwear range utilising Soil Association Certified Organic
Leather, technological innovation and a sustainable approach to luxury, demand for considered
products in the luxury footwear market will be met and the market seized.
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appendices
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appendix 1
global luxury goods detailed
market analysis
market overview
“The definition of luxury goods is changing as consumers demand more from them... One cannot
deny that the luxury industry is at a defining moment in its history.” (Luxury Institute, July 2009)
Luxury Goods, or “High-end non-food products” (Verdict, June 2009), with an “intrinsic value
which is not material, but linked to the evocative brand image”, (Euromonitor International,
November 2001) “are sold in selective distribution outlets with specific designs, creativity and
value that make the items unique.” (Euromonitor International, November 2001). The Global
luxury goods market equated to €224.5bn globally in 2008 (Verdict, June 2009).
i. recession
Summary
Turbulance in the US econonomy, the US housing downturn and the September 2008 collapse of
Lehmen Brothers bank sparked a wall-street upheaval which developed into what’s termed the
global “fincial crisis” towards the end of 2008. This precipitated a global recession with the US
declaring “[The] Economy began shrinking in December 2007” (MSNBC 2008) December 2008,
and the UK entering recession in January 2009 (BBC 2009). Consumer confidence dried up and
disposable income evaporated.
Prior to the Financial Crisis the Global Luxury Goods Market was thriving with LVMH CEO Bernard
Arnault predicting “explosive growth over the next five years” in 2007 (Brown, J. 2007). 17th
October 2008 The Daily Telegraph headline read “Financial crisis: Luxury brands boom as rich fly
to quality” (Fellowes, J. 2008) however by February 2009 many luxury brands recorded double
digit losses in the fourth quarter of 2008 (retailerdaily.com 2009).
ii. regional markets
Regional Markets occupy different stages of maturity and for the purpose of this report Verdict
(June 2009) Market divisions have been adopted:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Europe, including Russia and all countries on the European continent
The Americas: primarily the USA
Japan
Asia Pacific: China, India, and Australasia
Middle East and Others: primarily the Middle East
Europe
€86bn
38% of global spend.
Established as the home of luxury; the majority of luxury brands originate in Europe, where three
of the four “Big” Fashion Weeks (London, Paris, Milan) take place. Despite the IMF forecasting
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dramatic annual decline in Euro GDP (-14.3%) in 2009 & 11.5% unemployment for 2010
(Verdict 2009) Europe remains the largest regional market, possibly compensated by high levels
of tourism.
Americas
€56.9bn
25% of global spend
Home to the final “Big” Fashion Week (New York) the US luxury market was hit heavily by the
recession, and suffered “a sharp deterioration in the second half of the year.” (Verdict, June
2009).
Asia Pacific (excl. Japan)
€41.8bn
19% of global spend
Though still developing, China and India were defined as “fast-growing new entrants to the
market” by Bernard Arnault (LVMH CEO) in 2007 (Smale, A. 2007) and despite feeling the
effects of the recession “Sales in China were 56% higher in September 2009 compared with a
year earlier.” (Curtin, M. October 2009).
Japan
€29.9bn Expenditure
13% share
Once considered “the only country in the world where luxury products were considered mass
market” (Tabuchi, H. September 2009), The Japanese Economy is reliant on exports, which
“[fell] off a cliff” (Verdict, June 2009), after the financial crisis. Japan was “Among the hardest
hit by the global economic crisis.. Sales at Louis Vuitton (the nation’s favourite handbag),
plunged 20 percent in the first six months of 2009.” (Tabuchi, H. September 2009)
Middle East and Others
€10bn Expenditure
5% of global spend
The middle east is a relatively new, small market but experienced rapid building development “in
particular of huge luxury shopping areas since 2004” (Verdict 2007). “Bain expects sales of luxury
items to rise 2% in the Middle East this year” (ameinfo.com April 2009).
Regional Analysis based on 2008 data (Verdict, June 2009)
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iii. wealth classifications
The Future Laboratory Futures Report: Luxury 2008, proposes“five stages of luxury” consumerism and
states “luxury is no longer a single-tiered proposition” (The Future Laboratory, November 2007).
The largest high-wealth population remains North America, followed by Europe, Asia Pacific and Latin
America respectively. Within high wealth populations, wealth can be separated into categories
according to assets:
source: merrill lynch world wealth report 2009 (p.11)
HNWIs
“High Net worth individuals” (HNWI’s) or individuals with “more than US$1 million in financial
assets” (Merrill Lynch, 2007) increased to 9.5 million in 2006 (Merrill Lynch, 2007) with “luxury
collectibles account[ing] for the largest spend”. (Merrill Lynch, 2007). HNWI wealth totalled
US$37.2 trillion, representing an 11.4% gain since 2005. (Merrill Lynch, 2007) fuelling growth of
the luxury goods industry. At the end of 2008, the • world’s population of HNWIs was down 14.9%
from the year before, while their wealth had dropped 19.5%.(Merrill Lynch, 2009)
Fig.2 HNWI World Wealth Distribution (Merrill Lynch 2009)
UHNWIs
Ultra-High Net Worth Individuals (UHNWIs) or individuals who hold “at least US$30 million in
investable assets” (Merrill Lynch, 2007) grew to 94,970, in 2006 - an 11.3% gain, up from a
10.2% gain in 2005. (Merrill Lynch, 2007). Following the Financial Crisis (see __) UHNWIs
experienced a sharp decline (-24.6%) globally (Merrill Lynch, 2009) largely due to the “group’s
partiality for more aggressive products” (which often result in higher earnings/higher losses) “and
pushed a large number of Ultra-HNWIs down into the ‘mid-tier millionaire’ bracket.” (Merrill
Lynch, 2009)
NMAs
NMAs New Mass Affluents/emerging affluents at the lower end of the spectrum. “TNS defines
"emerging affluent" as households with a net worth between $100,000 and $500,000, excluding
primary residences. [2005] they number 24.5 million, up from 23.9 million in 2004. (Sahadi, J.
2005).
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Aspirational
Prior to the Financial Crisis “the U.K.—and certainly the U.S.—had demonstrated unsustainable
spending patterns”.(Merrill Lynch, 2009). In the UK in 2006 consumer spending reached a record
£1 trillion and luxury items saw the largest growth, “up 57% between 1995 and 2005” (Lewis,
P.). Easy credit encouraged lower socio-economic groups to enter the luxury market. In the
build-up to the Financial Crisis, credit dried up and in August 08 UK consumer disposable
income reached its lowest level in 11 years (Gilmore, G. 2008): “Instead of shopping for luxuries,
the aspirational consumers are now just trying to cover their basic expenses” says Milton
Pedraza, CEO the Luxury Institute (Dolliver,M. 2009). “The luxury market is set to descend from
this illusory cloud of everyone being wealthy back down to how it was before - serving the very
few with the very expensive. (Beaumont-Thomas, B. 2008).
iv. market factors
a. Wealth Reduction
Global GDP was down 1.9% at the end of 2008 to 2%, equating to a global decrease in wealth.
(Merrill Lynch 2009). At the end of 2008, the world’s population of high net worth individuals
(HNWIs1) was down14.9% from the year before, while their wealth had dropped 19.5%. (Merill
Lynch 2009).
b. Travel
A reduction in tourism may contribute to under-performing sales in luxury goods (particularly in
Europe) where “80% of purchases by Asians were made when they go abroad, and as much as
30% of developed market sales (e.g. in Europe) is attributed to emerging market customers as
they travel.” (Pittilla, M. November 2008)
c. Developing markets
“There had been a general consensus that certain emerging economies, such as the BRIC
nations (Brazil, Russia, India, China), were in a stage of “decoupling”, or “had strengthened to
the point that they no longer relied on mature economies for growth.” (Merrill Lynch 2009) While
this proved not to be the case, there is strong growth potential: “The combined wealth of Asia
Pacific’s HNWIs is estimated to grow at 8.8% annually till 2018, which is faster than the global
average of 7.1% (bloombergutv.com, Oct 2009). Speaking at the 2008 Luxury Briefing
Conference, Accenture Managing Partner Richard Wildman reflected that “emerging markets
[were] driving the bulk of sales in recent years,” predicting that,“By 2010, some 40% of total
luxury sales could be generated by BRIC markets.” (Pittilla, M. November 2008). However
emerging markets have typically looked to the mature markets for direction, so innovation and
development is still likely to occur here.
d. Retail distribution
Department stores have been the main distribution channel for luxury product. The two biggest
department store markets, Germany and the UK, have under-performed in recent years.(Verdict
June 2009) and increasingly brands have been expanding own store presence. Luxury brands
had also been notoriously slow to adopt online retailing strategies but with the success of luxury
online stores such as net-a-porter, are increasingly recognising the need for online presence.
e. currency
As European currency has weakened following the financial crisis, “Future overseas sourcing will
become far more expensive”. (Rumsay, 2009) meaning brands will have to cover rising costs of
manufacture, and decide how this is passed on to the consumer.
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appendix 2
acorn socio-economic
classification
Fig 1 ACORN ABC1 Category
Source: (caci, 2009)
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appendix 3
notes: lcf hosts trend
intelligence 2010 webinar
22.09.09
Martin Raymond: Co-founder/Strategy & Inslight Director of The Futures
Laboratory, Editor of Viewpoint Magazine.
Tony Glenville: Colour Analysist (CMB)/Freelance Fashion Journalist for Vogue, Harpers
etc/Fashion Lecturer
Jane Kellock: WGSN Senior Trend Consultant (Previously head of design at Topshop)
martin Raymond
“alphalux” visual presentation
Luxury and how it’s changing: Luxury will go back to its roots:
Heritage
Simplification
Understanding
Austerity
Brand Quietness*
Localised Sense of Self
Trend Drivers:
Fall off in spending: 7% in last quarter
Russia, Brazil, India, China..not going to save luxury as previously predicted. Instead
REDEFINE LUXURY.
People want value! Luxury has to deliver on all fronts:
o Longevity
o Emotion
o Variety
o Valueness
o FOCUS ON LOCAL
Trend Directions:
Rough Lux: Urban archaeology..rawness/roughness/artisanal curated connotations
“Blingmalism”: Lustre with simplicity
Heritage Modern: Old brought back. Contemporary but with clear values and
consideration.
Philanthropic retail: Eco & discounts from Gucci, de Beers, YSL etc..also charity.
Sustainability: People are more cautious – back to slowness
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tony glenville
Slowdown 2010/11
We start to want integrity when purchasing.
MONOCHROME colours really important. Sophisticated Basics must be there. Safer options.
GREYS: Now an established colour. “Silent Grey”. Assemble own fabrics with layering...New Lux:
Chanel – fabrics MADE in-house.
NEW BLING: Subtle silver: Fluidity. Resurgance in the old..SILENT CHIC..silent films.
mood
Even at high street there’s surprising quality.
Drapery: Reassuring..luxurious. Covered in Fabric.
Feel Good in your skin
Mixing textures “the borrowers”
Urban Charm..retro NY
Eco: There is substance! It’s here to stay! Conserve what we have. Craft focus.
Twilight: Natural Colours, rich, desirable, don’t shout
Le Circqu: Got to have some fun! Red. Schiaparelli. 1940’s.
Eccentrism & Individual chic: You as yourself and confident
Calm down: Valentina
jane kellock
How to use wgsn
Growth from bi-annual to daily web interface. Information collection from everywhere including
blogs: Favourites including LS:N/D.cipher/fashionation/de zeen/y pulse/ ASVOF/PSFK
design/bibliodyssey/know the rest..
WGSN
Inspire & inform:
Update:
Confirm:
TRENDS
q&a
Q: How can fashion consumers give to charity?
MR: Give back not on just a public platform but with philanthropy and transparent working.
Philanthropy not just a marketing tool, but really genuine.
Q: How do trends work?
TG: Cyclicle and in various cycles with their own timelines. Trendsetters are not really trying to be
trendsetters but rather follow instinct and design by heart, and come and go out of fashion
moments, e.g Galliano.
Q: If you don’t have access to expensive trend forecasting like WGSN how can you forecast on a
budget?
JK: Use research and info! That’s all WGSN does..it’s out there. The world is full of free info you
just have to look for it.
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MY Q: Do you think that “eco luxury” has a future?
MR: I think that’s an investment opportunity!
TG: Even though MR/JK/TG didn’t collude, the presentations were saying the same
things..People are looking for lasting quality not throwaway. Think of heirlooms. Luxury should
be like buying a new heirloom. Something that employs real craftspeople and is maybe not fully
green/sustainable but is “eco” in so far as intended to be kept for a long time and not
throwaway.
MR: A lot of manufacturing processes will have to follow new legislation. Brands WILL have to
change. Luxury at it’s heart was about sustainability in that it was handed down and everything
was used from animal processes etc. At the moment “eco” is stuck onto a product to try and
sell. Ultimately brands will have to do it to exist.
Q: Where can you go for inspiration?
JK: Not just the internet! Follow your INSTINCT!
MR: Anything on the internet is already dead.
END
Spoke to Jane Kellock and Tony Glenville about my final project ideas and using organic leather
and both agreed if it was possible it was a great idea!
Q: “do you think that eco luxury has
a future?”
A: “i think that’s an investment
opportunity!” martin raymond trend analyst,
cofounder of the futures laboratory & editor of viewpoint magazine
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appendix 4
luxury ftw brand positioning
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appendix 5
luxury consumer research
analysis
6 Luxury consumers in London were surveyed about their footwear purchasing habits as well as
attitudes towards ethical/organic products (See Appendix _ and _for sample questionnaire and _
for raw data).
summary of findings
1. Age
Consumer age ranged from 20 – 47, with the majority of consumers falling into different age
categories. (see Fig. 1)
2. Relationship Status
Relationship status was a key indicator of consumer mindset, or “life-stage” with 50% of
participants being Married. (see fig 2.)
3. Dependants
Of the Participants who were married, 100% of them had children and 0% of the non-married
participants had children. (see fig. 3)
4. Living Situation
Living Situation was also taken as an idicator of wealth and “life-stage”. 50% of participants live
alone and 50% of participants live in a family household. (See fig 4)The participants who lived in
a family household were also the participants who were married with children.
5. Postcode Analysis
Due to the small sample size, and refusal to disclose postcode by two participants, the
postcode analysis is unreliable. (see fig. 5)Postcodes (an indicator of wealth) were intended to
be utilised in providing a geographical overview of the London Luxury population. Results were
taken and combined with results from a second research study into ethical consumers and
plotted on a postcode area map of London. (see Appendix).The aim was to provide an overview
of luxury consumer demographics in the city vs. areas with a high population of ethical
consumers, to establish target consumers.
6. Occupation
Occupations - also taken as an indicator of wealth – were assigned ACORN categories (See fig
6.) Though still of a high socio-economic level, some occupations were not of a level to predict
extreme wealth, suggesting affluence was inherited, particularly in the younger participants. This
was certainly the case of the Profiled Consumer (see Appendix).
7. Shopping Habits
Participants were asked why they shop in the store they were approached in (one of the luxury
department stores Harrods, Harvey Nicholas, Dover Street Market or Selfridges). Design and
Quality were of equal importance (36%) with fit, and service last at 7%. (see fig 7.)
When shopping specifically for shoes, Vintage Shops and Harvey Nichols were the most popular
(67%) followed by Dover Street Market (50%). Selfridges, Harrods, Browns and Sloane Street
boutiques were all equally popular (33%). (See fig. 8)
Most popular reasons for why consumers shop there were “Wide Choice”, “High Quality Product
and “Exclusive Product” (all 18%). “Nice Environment” and “Convenient Location” were next
(both 9%) followed by Personalisation (5%). (see fig. 9.)
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100% of younger participants Shopped for fashion at least once a week. Older participants
shopped “Once a month” or “When I have time”. (see fig 10.)
5 out of the 6 participants purchase luxury goods online, with 4 out of those 5 shopping at neta-porter.com. (see fig 11.)
8. Travel
Frequency of travel can be an indicator of lifestyle and wealth. 50% of participants travel
frequently in leisure time, typically a signal of high wealth. 1 participant travelled a lot “on
business”, and 2 “a moderate amount”. (see fig. 12).
Outside of London, participants cited Paris (67%) as a favourite shopping destination, followed
by New York (50%) and Milan (33%). (see fig. 13).
9. Favourite Brands
Nicholas Kirkwood was the most cited favourite Brand by 50% of participants, all of whom where
in the younger age groups. Lanvin and Prada were the next most popular (both 33%). As well as
“life-stage” factors (1-6), There was a notable difference in design preference and age between
marrieds/non-marrieds, drawing the conclusion of two different consumer groups: Younger nonmarrieds (Experimental) and older marrieds (Settled). Experimentals tended to favour the more
avante-guard designers such as Nicholas Kirkwood and Yves Saint Laurent, whilst Settleds were
more traditional in their selections, such as Prada and Brian Atwood. (see fig. 14)
10. Spend
Average spend was in the range of £250 - £500 per pair. One participant selected £180 - £200
and £500 - £1000, explaining she would spend less on day shoes, but a lot more on “special
shoes”. (see fig 15)
50% of participants purchase on average 2 pairs per month, while 50% purchase 1 pair or less.
Number of pairs was not separated between older and younger participant groups. (see fig, 16)
11. Factors in Shoe purchase
100% of participants cited Design and Quality as key aspects of a purchase. Comfort was the
next factor (67%). (see fig. 17.)
12. Ethical Fashion
33% of participants said they already purchase “ethical”/Organic fashion with Hemp USA cited
as a brand. (see fig 18.) Of those that did not, at least 50% commented that they would buy
more if there were more choice and better quality available.
83% purchase Stella McCartney clothing, but said they did not see it as an ethical brand. Only 1
of 6 participants purchases Stella McCartney footwear and accessories. (see fig. 19) Reasons
for not purchasing were that leather was not used and they didn’t feel the price was justified for
non-leather footwear. It was also discussed that leather on a product was seen as a sign of
quality and that they expect it when purchasing footwear.
13. Organic Meat
100% of participants purchased Organic meat at least “some of the time” (see fig 20) 50% said
they purchase Organic everytime.
The most important reason for choosing Organic meat was “Quality” (33%), followed by
“Welfare” and “Hormone Free” (both 25%) and finally “Anti GM” (17%). (see fig 21).
14. Organic Leather
100% of participants said they would buy Organic leather products if they were available and of
a high enough quality and design.(see fig 22).
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concept development
fig.1 age
17%
17%
15-20
21-26
27-32
33-38
17%
39-44
45-50
51-56
32%
57 -62
68+
17%
fig. 2 relationship status
3
3
2
Single
2
M arried
C ohabiting
1
In a R elationship
1
0
Of those who were married, all participants fell into the higher age groups
Fig 3. children
no of questionees
3
2
1
0
No
Yes 1
Yes 2
Yes 3
Yes 4
Of those with children, all participants fell into the higher age groups.
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concept development
Fig. 4 living situation
0%
0%
Flat-share
Family
Household
50%
50%
Alone
With Parents
Of those who lived in a family household, 100% fell into the older age groups.
Fig, 5 postcode
2
SW1
W14
TW2
1
Abroad
Undisclosed
0
fig 6. occupation
ACORN
Occupation
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Teacher
1
E
Editor
1
D
Marketing
1
D
Production Manager
1
C
Fashion Sales
1
E
Fashion Assistant
1
F
25
concept development
Fig 7 why they shop where they were shopping (i.e. store they
were approached in)
Clothing Quality
14%
Service
7%
36%
Design aesthetic
0%
Bespoke
alterations
Fit
7%
36%
Other
fig. 8 where they shop for shoes
4
Harrods
Selfridges
D over Street M arket
3
B ond stB outiques
Knightsbridge
V intage Shops
2
Harvey N ichols
B row ns
Liberty
1
Sloane stB outiqes
W estfields
O ther
0
fig. 9 why they shop there
Good Service
9%
0%
Personalisation
5%
9%
0%
18%
9%
14%
18%
18%
Bespoke Service
Nice Environment
Convenient
Location
Exclusive
Product
High Quality
Product
Wide Choice
Trust the brand
Other
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concept development
fig. 10 how often they shop for fashion
no of questionees
2
1
0
s
ek
we
ek
we
ek
we
a
a
ce
on
ce
On
an
th
2
in
ce
On
h
nt
mo
a
ce
On
me
ti
ve
ha
I
en
Wh
P
r
pe
op
Sh
r
he
Ot
l
na
so
er
re
Mo
fig. 11 do they buy luxury products online
5
4
3
2
1
0
No
Y es
70% who did shop online shopped at net-a-porter.com.
fig. 12 travel
no questionees
3
2
1
0
Yes (business)
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Yes
(recreational)
Moderate amount
27
concept development
fig. 13 favourite shopping destinations outside of London
no of questionees
4
Copenhagen
3
Paris
New York
2
Buenos Aires
Milan
1
0
fig. 14 favourite brands/designers
Favourite shoe brands/designers
Nicholas Kirkwood
3
Alaia
1
Lanvin
2
YSL
1
Prada
2
Marc Jacobs
1
Marni
1
Chloe
1
Tabitha Simmons
1
Nicoll Brundage
1
Brian Atwood
1
50% of participants cited Nicholas Kirkwood as a favourite designer, all of whom were aged
between 20 and 27 (100% of participating lower age groups).
Fig. 15 average spend on one pair of shoes
no of questionees
2
1
0
Average Price Range runs from £250 to £500.
* £180 - £200 was cited as for “casual shoes” with the same participant saying she would
spend £500 - £1000 on “special shoes”.
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concept development
Fig. 16 pairs purchased per month
0%
0%
1 pair or less
2 Pairs
50%
50%
3 Pairs
4 Pairs
Number of pairs purchased was not separated between older and younger participants.
Fig. 17 factors in shoe purchases
Price
Comfort
6
no of questionees
Functionality
5
Design
4
Packaging
3
Brand
2
1
Use of Organic/Ethical
materials
Practicality
0
Quality
Longevity
100% of questionees cited Design and Quality as key aspects in a purchase.
Comfort was the next factor (67%).
Fig. 18 do they already buy organic/ethical fashion
4
3
2
1
0
Yes
No
33% of questiones already purchase ethical fashion with Hemp USA products cited as a brand.
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concept development
Fig.19 do they purchase stella McCartney products
6
Yes: Clothing
4
Yes: Shoes
2
Yes: Bags/Accs
1
1
Yes: Stella
McCartney x adidas
No
0
no of questionees
5
83% purchase Stella McCartney clothing, but said they did not see it as an “ethical” fashion
brand.
Reasons for not purchasing shoes and bags were that leather was not used and they didn’t feel
the price justified non-leather footwear. Also that they see leather as a sign of quality and
actively look for it when purchasing footwear.
Fig. 20 organic meat consumption
no of participants
3
2.5
2
1.5
1
0.5
0
e
y
time
time
ytim
nall
the
the
Ever
asio
f
f
c
o
o
c
O
Most
Some
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Neve
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Fig. 21 reasons for doing so if so
0%
25%
25%
Welfare
Anti GM
Quality of Meat
Hormone free
Other
17%
33%
Fig 22. would they buy organic leather products [if they were
of a high enough quality/design]
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
Yes
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appendix 6.luxury raw data
questions
total
Why do you shop here (where shopping)
questions
total
Outside London, fav shop spots
Clothing Quality
5
Copenhagen
1
Service
1
Paris
4
Design aesthetic
5
New York
3
Bespoke alterations
Fit
1
Other
2
Buenos Aires
1
Milan
2
Favourite shoe brands/designers
Where do you shop for shoes in London
Nicholas Kirkwood
3
Harrods
2
Alaia
1
Selfridges
2
Lanvin
2
Dover Street Market
3
Bond st Boutiques
Knightsbridge
YSL
1
Prada
2
Marc Jacobs
1
Vintage Shops
4
Marni
1
Harvey Nichols
4
Chloe
1
Browns
2
Tabitha Simmons
1
Liberty
1
2
1
Nicoll Brundage
1
Brian Atwood
1
Sloane st Boutiqes
Westfields
Other
Average Spend (1 pair of shoes)
£10 under
Because they offer
£10 - £25
Good Service
2
£25 - £40
Personalisation
1
£40 - £70
Nice Environment
2
£100 - £130
Convenient Location
3
£130 - £160
Exclusive Product
4
£160 - £180
High Quality Product
4
£180 - £210
Wide Choice
4
£210 - £250
Trust the brand
2
Bespoke Service
£70 - £100
Other
How often do you (fashion) shop average
1
£250 - £300
2
£300 - £350
2
£350 - £400
2
£400 - £500
2
More than once a week
1
£500 - £1000
1
Once a week
2
Over £1000
Once a month
2
Pairs purchased per month
When I have time
2
1 pair or less
3
2 Pairs
3
Once in 2 weeks
Personal Shopper
Other
2
3 Pairs
4 Pairs
Do you buy luxury products online
No
1
Factors in Shoe Purchases
Yes
5
Price
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Net-a-porter.com
4
Comfort
4
Brand online shops
1
Functionality
1
Other
2
Design
6
Packaging
Do you travel much?
Brand
2
Yes (business)
1
Use of Organic/Ethical materials
Yes (recreational)
3
Practicality
1
Moderate amount
2
Quality
6
No
questions
Longevity
total
Buy Organic/Ethical fashion?
questions
total
Postcode
Yes
2
SW1
1
No
4
W14
1
TW2
1
Purchase Stella McCartney Products?
Yes: Clothing
5
Yes: Shoes
1
Yes: Bags/Accs
1
Abroad
1
Undisclosed
2
Occupation
Yes: Stella McCartney x adidas
Teacher
1
No
Editor
1
Marketing
1
Buy Organic meat?
Production Manager
1
Everytime
3
Fashion Sales
1
Most of the time
2
Fashion Assistant
1
Some of the time
1
Occasionally
Age
Never
Vegetarian/Vegan
1
Reasons for choosing Organic meat
15-20
1
21-26
1
27-32
1
33-38
2
Welfare
3
39-44
Anti GM
2
45-50
Quality of Meat
4
51-56
Hormone free
3
57 -62
Other
1
68+
Vegetarian/Vegan
Living Situation
Would you buy organic leather products
Yes
Flat-share
6
No
Family Household
3
Alone
3
With Parents
personal
Relationship status
Single
1
4-Married
3
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(Rest of data qualatative)
Cohabiting
In a Relationship
total participants
2
33
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appendix 7.
sample luxury questionnaire
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appendix 8
ethical ftw brand positioning
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appendix 9
leather industry overview
leather: unethical and unsustainable
The global leather industry has a huge negative impact on the environment and (unsurprisingly)
the animals concerned. “Cattle are responsible for about 80% of all deforestation’ in the Amazon
region. In recent years, on average one hectare of Amazon rainforest has been lost to cattle
ranchers every 18 seconds.” (greanpeace 2009). Aside from pollution from cancerous chemicals
used in chrome tanning (the process used to treat 95% of leather on the market), according to
the UN, livestock produce more greenhouse gases than all forms of transport put together, as
well as contributing to acid rain (Lean 2006). The enormous quantity of water needed to raise
cattle and in the tanning process equates to having a bath everyday for over 40 years, for every
one pair of leather shoes (Beyondskin.co.uk). Leather is big business and with most of the raw
materials (animal skins) coming from animals in developing countries with little regard for animal
welfare, cattle are bred and harvested as products rather than sentient beings. Welfare
standards in developing countries and Europe (if in existence) are not enforced, and many
animals suffer abuse, inhumane living conditions, and unnecessary transportation often resulting
in extreme stress/death. According to Peta (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) “the
high speed of assembly lines that often process up to 400 cows per hour results in the improper
stunning, each year, of millions of cows, who are consequently skinned and dismembered while
they are still kicking and crying out in terror.” (cowsarecool.com/cows)
Globally the leather industry was worth USD 85bn in 2006 with China and Italy the leading
producing and exporting nations. (KPMG 2006 p2). I.5billion cattle (and increasing) are killed
every year (Lean 2006) with about half of global leather production for shoes (Greenpeace
2009). The global nature of the business means that raw hides, and semi finished and finished
products are all traded globally between business and countries (Econ 2008), making it
impossible to track supply chain and enforce any kind of standard.
Aside from obvious welfare, pollution and supply chain issues in the industry, a huge problem
has been the resistance amongst those involved to take ethics/sustainability seriously, with many
believing it to be a passing trend. Essentially a full reform of the system is required, with
governmental backing and enforcement of legislation before anything is likely to change.
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appendix 10
vegan consumer insight
16th october, islington art & design fair/underground ethical
catwalk : exhibitor a alicia, accessories designer
profile
age 25, accessories designer, vegetarian, living in London,
wearing black flat ruched plastic ankle boots.
(After browsing a necklace/accessories stall and finding a piece I liked)
So how are your products ethical?
Well I’m not actually trying to be an ethical brand as such but the felt used in these
necklaces is 85% recycled acrylic, 15% wool and all of my packaging is recycled. I try
to be conscious about these things and I think every new brand should be thinking
about these kinds of things.
Have you ever thought about using leather?
No! I’m actually a vegetarian so no.
I’m actually a footwear designer, i used to be a vegetarian in the past,
but I now eat organic meat, and I’m trying to source leather for a
collection that is from organically raised animals - so as you can buy
organic meat, you should be able to buy organic leather. Is that
something you would consider using?
Ooh no, I’m not sure, maybe! Since I don’t eat meat maybe not but, I’m not sure.
So where do you buy your shoes now?
I tend to just buy any plastic shoes from those cheap shops that’re like 20,30 pounds
you know, but it’s probably worse, I don’t know!
But plastic’s not going to biodegrade - personally I don’t like that..
I know I know! Yeah I guess the ideal would be a kind of fabric shoe with organic
materials.
But what about if you have to wear it in winter or bad weather and so
on? Where leather would be waterproof Well you can have it coated can’t you? I don’t know maybe, you can ask peopletree or
someone like that, I’m sure they could help you with that kind of stuff.
That’s a good idea thanks! So do you find it hard to find shoes you like
then? What about from ethical brands like them or specifically organic
shoes. I have never found any I like..
(Pulls face) Yeah they tend to be really old looking or just awful! That’s why I tend to just
buy the plastic ones.
So would you be interested in a more fashion orientated/avante guard ethical shoe
brand?
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Definitely!
So do you have a shop or how did you start your business?
Well to be honest I just started really small making things and then selling through etsy,
you know it?
(nod)
Well I’ve gone from working around 4 days week full time, and just recently went fulltime because of etsy!
Wow that’s amazing congratulations!
Thanks, and if I could give you one piece of advice – I don’t know if you know how etsy
works? –
Not really..
Well the search listings go on everyday, so everytime you update it moves you up the
list, so if you don’t update for 5 days say, you’ll be like 900 in the search results..so I
update daily now.
Thanks for the tip!
No problem, so do you want to try that one? (origami necklace in hand)
Please! (whilst trying) So where do you source the felt?
Argh it’s a company in the UK, I can’t remember the name.. but they offer that and also
a 100% recyled acrylic and the difference is actually huge. Just that little bit of wool
makes the touch so much better.
So do you know where the wool comes from?
Mm, not really..i know – it’s hard!
Wow it’s (the necklace) really different actually..i really like the origami idea
Yeah that actually came about because I designed a mens broach and tried to kind of
man it up a bit!
And then all the women wanted them?!
Exactly!
Call for catwalk show
Argh thanks very much, I better go to the show - how much was that one?
That’s £30
Is that the only one in that colour?
It is I’m afraid, these are my newest ones..I can hold it for you if you like?
That would be great thanks.
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Appendix 11
organic consumer: research
results
Forty Organic consumers in London were surveyed about their reasons for purchasing Organic
meat, footwear purchasing habits as well as attitudes towards ethical/organic products (See
Appendix _ and _for sample questionnaire and _ for raw data).
summary of findings
1. Age
The largest age categories were “27 – 32” (33%), “21 – 26” (31%), and “33 – 38” (19%),
suggesting younger to early middle-aged consumers are the main Organic consumers. (See fig
1)
2. Dependants
The majority of participants did not have children, suggesting a higher personal disposable
income, thus allowing spend on Organic products. However those with children were most likely
to purchase Organic meat “every time”, citing their child’s health as a major consideration. (See
fig 3)
3. Living Situation
Participants were fairly equally divided by living situation (an indicator of wealth), suggesting
ethical products appeal across the board, but an minority of participants aged 20 and below
indicates wealth as a factor in consumption. (fig 4)
4. Postcode Analysis
Thirty six Participants provided postcodes, which were also taken as an indicator of wealth and
mapped according to the percentage of survey population with that postcode. (fig 5) This was
taken and combined with results from a second research study into luxury consumers and
plotted on a postcode area map of London. The aim was to provide an overview of luxury
consumer demographics in the city vs. areas with a high population of ethical consumers. (see
Appendix). Results from this test are largely unreliable due to the small sample population of
luxury consumers willing to take part in research, but in itself provides an indicator of wealth
according to the population of ethical consumers. (Based upon the fact the Organic products
are more expensive therefore higher populations of Organic consumers are likely to have a higher
wealth).
5. Occupation
A list of Occupations is provided at Fig. 6. According to ACORN classification, most participants
were from a variety of different socio-economic groups, suggesting that whilst consumers may
not buy Organic all the time, even less affluent consumers consider ethics to be of importance.
6. Organic Meat
When choosing Organic meat “Quality of Meat” (32%) was of most importance followed by
“Welfare” (27%), “Hormone Free” (20%) and “Anti GM” (16%). (fig.7)
Most Consumers reported purchasing Organic meat “Most of the Time” (31%), Followed by “
Every time”/”Some of the time” (both 24%), and (13%) said Occasionlly. (“Never” (8%) was
selected by two Vegetarians, something not taken into account when designing the
questionnaire. (fig. 8)
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7. Organic Leather
32 out of 40 (80%) said they would be interested in Organic Leather products if they were
available. The 20% that said they wouldn’t cited (perceived) higher price as a reason why not.
(fig. 9)
8. Ethical Fashion
67.5% said they do not currently buy Organic/Ethical Fashion because its “ugly” and
“overpriced”, with one consumer commenting “sorry, but I go on looks”. (fig. 10) Of the 32.5%
that do already purchase, 30% said they buy from Peopletree, and 10% buy from “fairtrade
shops”.
9. Factors in shoe purchases
Quality and Comfort were the most important factors when purchasing (both 72.5%) closely
followed by Price (70%) and lastly design (60%). Functionality and Practicality were the next
most important (both 42.5%) (See fig. 11).
10. Footwear Retail
Consumers said they currently shop mostly at [small] local high street boutiqes, (27%), followed
by Department stores (21%) and City centre shops (22%). See fig.12. Shopping malls were next
(9%) followed by online (7%).
When asked about favourite places to shop 20% had no preference. Vintage markets (10%)
Selfridges (7.5%) and the Internet (7.5% ) were the most popular aside from individual locations.
(see fig.13). Reasons for being their favourite location were “Wide Choice” (21%), “Nice
Environment” (20%), “Good Quality Product”/”Trust the Brand” (16%) and “Convenience”
(13%). Interestingly “Good service” was only (9%). (see fig. 14).
11. Favourite Brands
The majority of participants (37.5%) did not have a favourite footwear Brand/Designer. An open
question format , the most popular brands were Office (12.5%) and Kurt Geiger (10%), followed
by Manolo Blahnik and Salvatore Ferragamo (both 7.5%). (See fig. 15.). This perhaps
represents the diverse sample of participants.
12. Average Spend/Quantity.
25 % said they would spend £40 - £70, 20% said they would spend £70 - £100 and 15% said
they would spend £100 - £130/£130 - £160. Three participants said they would spend £500 £1000 on shoes for a special occasion. (see fig.16)
92% of participants said they would buy one pair of shoes or less on average a month, with 5%
saying they would buy 2 pairs. One participant said she would buy 4 pairs. (see fig. 17).
Fig. 1 Age
3%0%3%
0%3%
8%
15-20
21-26
31%
27-32
33-38
19%
39-44
45-50
51-56
57 -62
68+
33%
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Fig. 2 Relationship status
No. of
Questionnees
14
12
10
S ingle
M arried
8
C ohabiting
6
4
In a R elationship
2
0
fig. 3 children
no. of questionees
25
20
15
10
5
0
No
Yes 1
Yes 2
Yes 3
Yes 4
fig. 4 living situation
0%
31%
33%
Flat-share
Family Household
Alone
With Parents
36%
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fig. 5 postcode
Abroad
6
E1
E8
no of questionees
5
E9
4
N1
N15
3
N16
2
NW6
SW11
1
SW14
SW19
0
SW3
fig. 6 list of occupations & estimation of acorn
classification (see appendix)
ACORN
Occupation
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Accountant
1
Actress
1
F
Architect
1
E
Artist
1
O
Consultant
1
C
Co-Ordinator
1
I
Film/Edit Co-Ordinator
1
G
Graphic Designer
1
Hairdresser
1
I
Housewife
3
C
Humanitarian
2
O
Interior Designer
3
E
Jeweller
1
E
Legal Consultant
1
D
Marketing
1
D
Party Planner
1
H
PR
1
F
Producer
2
G
Psychologist/Entrepreneur
1
E
Restaurant Supervisor
1
H
Student
7
F
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concept development
Fig. 7 reason for choosing organic meat
1%
4%
27%
Welfare
20%
Anti GM
Quality of Meat
Hormone free
Other
16%
Vegetarian/Vegan
32%
fig. 8 frequency of organic purchase
8%
24%
13%
Everytime
Most of the time
Some of the time
Occasionally
Never
24%
31%
fig. 9 interest in organic leather products if available
no of questionees
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
Yes
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fig. 10 already buy organic fashion
no of questionees
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
No
Yes
fig. 11 factors in shoe purchases
Price
no of questionees
30
28 29
29
Comfort
Functionality
24
25
Fashion forward design
20
17
Packaging
17
15
Brand
Use of Organic/Ethical
materials
Practicality
10
5 5
4
5
2
2
Quality
0
How long it will last
Other
fig. 12 where they shop for shoes
7%
Local High st
boutiques
1%
City Centre Shops
27%
Shopping Malls
22%
Department Stores
Vintage
Markets/Shops
13%
Online
21%
9%
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fig. 13 favourite place to shop for shoes (open question)
Favourite place to shop
No preference
8
Nordstrom
1
Internet
3
Oxford st
1
Spice (Upper St N1)
1
Topshop Ox st
2
Clarks
1
Cara (Richmond)
1
Poste Mistress
1
Portobello
1
Dover Street Market
1
John Lewis
1
Selfridges
3
Luca (milan)
1
Vintage/Markets
4
Office
2
The Brand
1
Harrods
1
Manolo Blahnik
1
(20%) had no preference
fig. 14 reasons they are favourite
5%
9%
13%
21%
Good Service
Wide Choice
Nice Environment
Good Quality Product
16%
Trust the Brand
Convient to get to
Other
20%
16%
fig. 15 favourite brands
Favourite shoe brands?
Christian Louboutin
2
Doc Martins
2
Nicholas Kirkwood
1
Russel & Bromley
2
Dior Mens
1
Manolo Blahnik
3
Kurt Geiger
4
Salvatore Ferragamo
3
Jimmy Choo
2
Frye Merrel
2
Clarks
1
Chloe
2
Charlotte Olympia
1
dSquared
2
Yves Saint Laurent
2
Office
5
Churches
1
Mui Mui
2
Vintage
2
Artigianal shops in mican
1
Camper
2
no preference
15
Cos
2
Margiela
1
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Fig. 16 average spend per pair
10
no of questionees
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
fig, 17 average number of pairs purchased per month
0% 3%
5%
1 pair or less
2 Pairs
3 Pairs
4 Pairs
92%
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appendix 12 organic raw data
questions
total
Reasons for choosing meat
questions
total
Favourite shoe brands?
Welfare
22
Christian Louboutin
2
Anti GM
13
Nicholas Kirkwood
1
Quality of Meat
26
Dior Mens
1
Hormone free
16
Kurt Geiger
4
Other
1
Jimmy Choo
2
Vegetarian/Vegan
3
Clarks
1
Frequency of Organic purchase
Charlotte Olympia
1
Yves Saint Laurent
2
Everytime
9
Churches
1
Most of the time
12
Vintage
2
Some of the time
9
Camper
2
Occasionally
5
Doc Martins
2
Never
3
Interest in Organic products
Russel & Bromley
2
Manolo Blahnik
3
Salvatore Ferragamo
3
Yes
32
Frye Merrel
2
No
6
Chloe
2
dSquared
2
Already Buy Organic Fashion + Perception
Office
5
No
27
Mui Mui
2
Ugly
1
Artigianal shops in mican
1
Overpriced
5
no preference
15
Yes
10
Margiela
1
From
0
Cos
2
Peopletree
3
Fairtrade Shops
1
Factors in Shoe Purchases
Favourite place to shop
No preference
8
Internet
3
Price
28
Spice (Upper St N1)
1
Comfort
29
Clarks
1
Functionality
17
Poste Mistress
1
Fashion forward design
24
Dover Street Market
1
Packaging
2
Selfridges
3
Brand
5
Vintage/Markets
4
Use of Organic/Ethical materials
5
The Brand
1
Practicality
17
Manolo Blahnik
1
Quality
29
Harrods
1
How long it will last
4
Nordstrom
1
Other
2
Oxford st
1
Topshop Ox st
2
Cara (Richmond)
1
Where do you shop for shoes?
Local High st boutiques
22
Portobello
1
City Centre Shops
11
John Lewis
1
Shopping Malls
7
Luca (milan)
1
Department Stores
17
Office
2
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concept development
Vintage Markets/Shops
18
Online
6
Because
Other
1
Good Service
questions
total
Average Spend (1 pair of shoes)
5
Wide Choice
11
Nice Environment
11
Good Quality Product
9
£10 under
0
Trust the Brand
9
£10 - £25
2
Convient to get to
7
£25 - £40
4
Other
£40 - £70
10
questions
£70 - £100
8
Postcode
£100 - £130
6
Abroad
3
£130 - £160
6
E1
1
£160 - £180
2
E8
3
£180 - £210
1
E9
2
£210 - £250
1
N1
6
£250 - £300
0
N15
1
£300 - £350
1
N16
3
£350 - £400
0
NW6
2
£400 - £500
1
SW11
1
£500 - £1000
3
SW14
1
Over £1000
0
SW19
1
Pairs purchased per month
3
total
SW3
1
TW15
1
1 pair or less
34
W11
1
2 Pairs
2
W2
3
3 Pairs
0
W25
1
4 Pairs
1
W6
1
W8
1
personal
W9
2
Relationship status
WW1
1
Single
13
Married
8
Age
Cohabiting
8
15-20
1
In a Relationship
10
21-26
11
27-32
12
33-38
7
Children
No
23
39-44
3
Yes 1
7
45-50
0
Yes 2
3
51-56
1
Yes 3
1
57 -62
1
Yes 4
1
68+
0
Total Questionees
40
Living Situation
Flat-share
12
Family Household
13
Alone
11
With Parents
0
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appendix 13
organic questionnaire sample
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appendix 14
equa interview
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appendix 15
initial visual concept board
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appendix 16
tows analysis
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appendix 17
gap analysis
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appendix 18
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appendix 19
visual consumer profile
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appendix 20
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appendix 21
project plan
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bibliography
books
Myerson, J. (2001), IDEO Masters of Innovation, London: CALMANN & KING LTD.
Raymond, M. (2003), The Tomorrow People, Future Consumers and How to Read them Today,
Harlow: Pearson Education Ltd.
Gundry, L & Kickel, J. (2007), Entreprenuership Strategy: London, New Delhi: Sage Publications
inc.
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/Default.aspx accesses 05.11.09
misc internet Sites
http://www.adweek.com/aw/content_display/news/agency/e3i18f9fdff77fbe3607ebf6e9b70ba20
62?pn=4
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WSJ_hpp_sections_lifestyle
http://www.ecotextile.com/news_details.php?id=10027
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http://www.businessoffashion.com/
http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/content.aspx?CategoryID=523
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s_buying_luxury_shoes_ethical/
http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2009/sep/27/handbag-luxury-retail-harvey-nichols
http://www.answers.com/topic/running-shoe-2
www.createthegroup.com/
fairtrade.org.uk
http://www.natureally.co.uk/origin.html
http://www.cowsarecool.com/cows.asp
exhibitions
V&A: Sports vs Fashion, Dec 2008
V&A: Cold War Modern Dec 2008
Munich: Maison Martin Margiela
Muencher Stadt Museum: Kandinsky Jan 2009
Design Museum: Jan Kaplicky Oct 2009
Design Museum: Oct 2009
Tate Modern: Pop Sep 2009
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concept development

ba (hons) footwear product design

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