Insider Secrets From A Model Agent

Transcription

Insider Secrets
From A Model
Agent
How to Become A Successful
Model
Summer Fisher
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INTRODUCTION
Once upon on a time in a land far, far away (aka Australia) I was a
model, but I had no idea what I was doing. I was winging it every step of
the way. I turned up to an agency to get signed dressed in full office
attire (black pants and a collared button up business shirt). My hair was
frizzy and my nails were chipped. Thankfully I don’t even remember
what shoes I was wearing, but I’m sure they were hideous….. oh yeah I
was that girl. By some stroke of luck it was the best agency in my
market and after 10 minutes of deliberation they did sign me but it very
nearly went the other way. I was clueless.
My family and in particular my Mum while being a very smart business
person, knew nothing about the industry. I felt like I had no one to turn
to, everyone had agendas and there was no one I could trust for an
unbiased opinion. What were the best agencies? What sort of model
was I? What sort of shoots should I be doing? What is a go see? What
shoes should I wear? I really had no idea. I fumbled my way through,
learning as I went as best I could most likely never reaching my full
potential due to shear lack of knowledge.
Along the way I learnt a lot. I discovered there were short cuts and that it
wasn’t all a matter of luck that there were ways to maximise my
opportunities. I had some success, I travelled internationally and
worked. But then the window closed. It’s a small window for many, to
really establish themselves as a model.
Now as a model scout and manager I pass this information onto the girls
I manage, guiding their careers and helping them to experience great
success. The first girl I scouted and managed went from an unknown
schoolgirl with braces to the cover of Vogue in less than 6 months. 5
years later she is ranked as one of the top 50 models in the world.
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Pic: My iPhone pic of Codie Jan 2010 and the cover of Vogue shot in
June 2010 (right)
And that was not a one hit wonder. I have gone on the create more than
30 successful international models in the last 4 years. I found that I was
getting many emails and phone calls from brand new girls wanting to get
started and even models at other agencies, keen to ask my opinion on
their careers, excited for me to share my knowledge. So Insider Secrets
from A Model Agent is born.
The book will teach you the basics you need to become a model, in each
chapter keep a look out for at least one ‘Insider Secret’ to give you that
leg up on the competition. They’re written in bold so you can’t miss
them! These are the extra little bit of information that most people do not
know and can give you a serious advantage.
This book holds the tools to help you on your path to being the best
model and the best person you can be. Hard work is still required,
persistence and resilience are essential. But armed with my knowledge,
the following pages can make your journey a little easier. After all,
knowledge is power and if you have the talent this book will show you
how to get you there as quickly as possible. To help you reach your full
potential.
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Enjoy!
PS. If you would like a full list of all the agencies check out my other
book “The Complete Model Agency Database” also on Amazon.
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The first step is to understand that modelling is a business and you
need to treat it as such. This involves making sure you are on time and
prepared just as you would be in any other career. This is not a game.
This is not some side gig you do for a few laughs. Globally, fashion is a
$1.5 trillion dollar industry and you can get a slice, a hefty slice if you
play your cards right. I have personally represented models that could
retire at 21. Can you imagine how that sets you up for life? While not
everyone will reach their financial dreams I can bet you want to do
everything in your power to get there. So lets take this industry seriously
and put your all into your career.
It’s a small window, there’s no time to stuff around. It’s also a small
industry, everyone knows everyone and it’s getting smaller. One major
wrong move and your career is over, never to be resurrected so lets
make the most of your beauty right now.
Insider Tip: Sit down and set some goals. Just one page is fine.
Do not skip this step. Put the book down and spend 20 minutes on
this exercise. It may be the most important thing you every do.
Most people never take the time to sit down and write out their
goals and models in particular seem to think the industry is
completely based on luck.
Preparation + Opportunity = Luck
Here’s a few ideas you may want to include
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Photographers you want to work with
Brands you want to represent
Publications you want to appear in
Runway shows you want to do
Countries you would love to travel to
How much money do you want to make
How would that money change your life
Describe your perfect day
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Ok great you do it! Now you need to look back on those goals often, at
least once a month but ideally every day! Put them somewhere you can
see them and now lets get to work.
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Physical Requirements
The second step is to honestly assess your own potential as a model.
While the overall package is important there are certain requirements
that generally need to be met in order to be successful in this career.
HEIGHT
Height is the biggest one. If I had a dollar for every person who says
“I’m 5’6 but I know Kate Moss and this model and that model were short
and I really want to make it”….well I would be freaking rich. Models are
traditionally 5’7 to 6 foot for females and 6’ to 6’3 for males. If you fall
outside of these parameters you have your work cut out for you and
that’s just the truth. Nevertheless there are exceptions to the rule and I
never say never to a model that really really wants it. Proportions are
equally important, long limbs and a long neck are definitely an asset.
AGE
The majority of agencies I have dealt with over the years will look at
potential models as young as 13 years old. Although they will not
advertise this, it is fairly common practise. However, tread carefully
when looking for representation this young. It is really unnecessary to be
signed before the age of 16 years old. Most clients will not book models
under 16 and there have even been laws recently passed in markets like
New York that largely limit the work a model under 18 years old can
obtain.
The market for girls in their late 20’s is slowly increasing, with model
mum’s like Kati Nescher, Arizona Muse, Lara Stone and Saskia du Braw
raking in some big bucks. Nevertheless, this is a young persons game
and usually it’s models in their early 20’s that are making the most
money.
SKIN
Do you have great skin? If not, get it fixed before you start looking for an
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agency. Do not say “I’m going through a bad phase with my skin right
now” or “I’ve got an appointment to see the dermatologist”. See the
dermatologist before you start trying to get scouted. You may only get
one chance, don’t ruin it! Whatever you do don’t tan and don’t get a fake
tan. If you need to get a spray tan for a particular job fine but agencies
always like the girls as tan-free as possible.
EYEBROWS
Do not pluck your eyebrows, at all! If they need to grow in, give them
time to grow in. I’m as guilty as the next person and in the 90’s I had
horrible thin eyebrows but thick eyebrows are in, thicker the better. Ok,
since I know you will ignore me, you can pluck the odd stray hair but
please leave it at that. If you over pluck they sometimes don’t grow
back…ever.
BRACES, PIERCINGS & TATOOS
If you have braces there is no need to wait until you get them off to try
and get signed. In fact one of my girls shot the cover of Vogue with
braces. True story. If you are thinking about tattoos, then….. Um…….
don’t. Just don’t get them. Yes there are models working with tattoos ,
but it will seriously limit your choices so be safe and just don’t get them.
In the same vein I have met so many models who have regretted getting
extra piercings, in particular, belly button piercing seems to scar often,
not a good look.
HAIR
Before taking any pictures or attending any meetings or casting calls
blow dry your hair smooth. You don’t need to take the straightener to it,
just make sure it’s not a frizz ball or if you have thin hair make sure you
blow dry for volume but do not curl it. Make sure your regrowth is done
and your highlights are up to date. Do not try and be trendy with your
hair, keep it classic.
SIZE
Let’s talk about clothing size. Yep shock horror catwalk fashion models
are skinny, like super skinny, just like ballet dancers. Don’t blame the
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scouts and agents, blame the designers who make the sample sizes.
However, there are different types of modelling and nowadays if you
meet all of the other requirements mentioned here then you may be able
to find success despite not having the perfect measurements. Runway
high fashion model measurements are usually 32-24-34, a sixe 2 in the
US or a size 6 in Aus/UK. Plus size models are size 14 (UK/AUS) and
up, the models the sit at around a size 10 are considered commercial
models. I have recently noticed shoe size is becoming more of an issue
as girls feet seem to be getting larger. Anything over a size 10 (41) as a
shoe size will find clients that won’t book them. They don’t want to get
shoes especially made and anything over a size 10 is considered a
custom shoe.
PERSONALITY
Big, happy, easy going, quirky personalities work best. Shy girls don’t
book work, simple as that. Resilliance and ability to deflect rejection are
definitely assets.
JE NE SAIS QUOI
For those who don’t speak French this translates to “I don’t know what”.
In other words, this is the much talked about but often elusive X Factor.
Some girls just have it in spades, they’re born with it and know how to
work it. This is what makes a supermodel. If you think you have it and
others have said you have it then great! You will have a definite edge.
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Types of Models
What’s the next step?
Okay, so you’ve assessed yourself and decided yes you have what it
takes. What should be your next step? You should work out what type of
model you are.
Commercial Models
A gorgeous smile, slim and fit without being skinny, great thick hair,
perfect straight white teeth, tanned with a b/c cup? You're a commercial
model. This category of model is often looked down upon by the editorial
and runway models but girl I will tell you now, a great commercial model
can easily make $300, 000 per year, and you will never heard her name.
Furthermore you probably wouldn't recognise her from one
advertisement to the next.
They play the part of the cute girlfriend, the girl with the hot new hair
colour, driving the new ‘it’ car, shopping at the local shopping centre,
swinging bags and looking like it's the best day of her entire life. Yes
these are the types of moves you want to practise.
What are commercial models booked for? Well commercials for one
duh, one national commercial will at least pay your rent for a year so get
ready to swallow your pride and act like a complete crazy on your
commercial auditions. They advertise hair care and resorts often
something to do with a couple where they just basically look ridiculously
good looking and deliriously happy. Hey if you’re lucky you could pick
up a tampon commercial, they pay extra if the product is considered
somewhat embarrassing!
So where to go to be a commercial model? Well if you want to segway
into acting, best get yourself on a plane and go to Los Angeles if you
aren't there already. It's tough competition but going on a million
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auditions and casting every day will get you ready to work in any market
quickly. All the major markets like London and New York have thriving
commercial model industries. If one’s not working for you don't be afraid
to move on but give it a good shot, at least 3 months. These things can
take time.
Agents are less strict on measurements and age with commercial
models, you can get away with 36 inch hips and they won't complain too
much, 5'7 could be considered acceptable and if you get yourself a nice
little niche going and keep your looks in tact you can basically work
forever….like 30! haha
Runway
Editorial and runway often intertwine, but for the sake of this exercise we
will treat them as mutually exclusive groups.
All models are tall, but runway modelling is exceptionally strict on height.
The ideal is 5'10 (178cm) and the acceptable variations are 5'9-5'11.5.
However, there are some outliers 5'8 & 6'1 that agents will lie about their
height to put them in the acceptable range. You must be able to walk. To
the average person this may sound like as easy feat but let me tell you,
there is much more than meets the eye. Now there's no need to run out
and spend a bunch of money getting some fool to teach you to strut your
stuff. You can get a start from watching some Youtube models of the top
girls in action.
Once you are ready to send out for work, your agency should be able to
supply someone to put on the finishing touches.
Top runway model examples: Karlie Kloss and Julia Nobis
Editorial
Editorial is what appears in the pages and cover of a magazine. All of
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the above requirements exist as well as the ability to move well in front
of the camera. Editorial models often have a very unique look and many
of the girls will describe themselves as ‘aliens’. They are not traditionally
good looking but striking engaging the reader in the pages of the
magazine they are reading.
The ability to take on a photographers vision and translate it into a
beautiful image is a must. A good editorial model is very aware of how
their body looks from different angles and is really willing to go for it and
try new things on a shoot.
The best editorial models work for publications like Vogue, W, I-D, Elle,
Harpers Bazaar and of course there are many more.
Top Editorial Model Example: My very own model Codie Young is
considered one of the top editorial models in the world.
Plus Size
Plus size models are more and more in demand nowadays and I often
suggest to girls who have trouble maintaining the tiny sizes required for
main stream modelling that they should try plus size.
Top Plus Size Model Example: Robyn Lawley and Crystal Renn are
great example of a plus size models doing amazing things in the fashion
world.
Swimsuit/Underwear
Swimsuit models are the girls who grace the pages of sports illustrated
or the Victoria’s secret catalogues. It is important to remember that
many of these categories can overlap but for the purposes of this book
when an agent refers to a swimsuit model they are talking about girls
that have the right body shape to do swimwear. The most important
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asset other than the usual model requirements is a b to d cup bust size.
Top Swimsuit Model Example: Kate Upton
Promo Modelling
Promo models are the girls who grace the pages generally of men’s
magazines or work in the nightclubs and on the street promoting
different companies.
Fitness Models
These are models have a very toned physique and very little body fat.
They generally work for fitness related labels and magazines such as
active sports wear, gym and supplement advertisements.
Classic
Generally around the age of 30 models move into what is known as the
‘classic’ category. A great classic model can still continue to work full
time as a model however, almost always they have been in the industry
since their teen years. The majority of the work for this type of model
will be commercials, shopping centre advertisements, magazines
targeted at older clientele and direct shopping catalogues. A great
classic model in the right market can still work full time, in particular if
she books a large number of commercials.
Local
There is no shame in being a local model. There are many models out
there in every market that can make a very nice, full time living modelling
in their local market. They gain the respect of repeat clients who know
they can rely on them to be in town when they need them. Type of local
clients would include shopping centres, local designers, online stores
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and hotels.
International
Models who work all over the world are known as international models.
They move from contract to contract and direct bookings to make the
most of the opportunities in the markets at different times of the year.
Petite
Here’s my professional opinion, there is no such thing as petite
modelling, it’s an urban myth.
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Digital Photos
The only photos you need to get started.
You need some photos but not a portfolio when you are getting started.
In the business we refer to the pictures we use to assess girls as
“digitals” also known in different markets as “polaroids” “pola’s” “digi’s”
and “snaps”. You do not need a professional camera to get the pictures
you need. Any phone with a camera is fine and I’m sure we all know
someone with a camera phone.
Next you want to find a nice wall, preferably white and outside, but in the
shade. Get in your swimsuit and heels. Wear as plain a bikini as
possible. A simple black one does the trick. Do not tan, do not get a
fake tan. Now get your friend/Mum or other patient person to take a
bunch of photos. Your aim is to get the following 5 photos:
Shot 1 – Close up of face no smiling
Shot 2 – Close up of face smiling
Shot 3 – Close up of face no smiling hair up
Short 4- ¾ shot from mid-thigh upwards
Shot 5 – Full length, standing straight on to camera no posing
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Stay away from photoshopping your images or even throwing filters
over the top of them. If you aren’t happy with them, take more.
Insider Tip: If you can, take an over the shoulder shot. Standing
with your back almost to the wall looking over your shoulder. This
is flattering for almost everyone.
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Model Agencies
These are the companies that liase between the models and the clients.
They can represent anywhere from 10 to 200 models and you need to
work out what will be a good fit for you. In most cases you will be signed
to these agencies for multiple years so it is an important decision.
When you are looking for an agency should you go big or small?
Established or new? It’s so hard to know! Large agencies are usually
powerful with access to all the best clients however, you can sometimes
find yourself lost in their vast model boards. While seeing yourself next
to a supermodel can be a really nice little ego booster, it can be a case
of what I like to call “throw everyone against a wall and see who sticks.”
Amazing for those who stick, not so great for everyone else.
The smaller agencies can offer the individual attention that the larger
agencies are just not equipped to handle. They will take more interest in
what you ate for breakfast and it is easier to rank higher up the model
ladder at that agency however, they may not have the client reach and
pull that will make you a supermodel.
If there are several reputable agencies in your area go and meet with
them all. It’s imperative that you sign with an agency where you mesh
well with the agents personalities and you feel they are going to push
you for the best possible income.
Visit them all, check out their vibe. You will certainly get a feel for your
favourites just by doing this. Talk to your mother agent, ask other
models what their experience was, google them and check out online
feedback.
Models.com offers a list of agencies in the major markets. Generally if
an agency appears on this list in can be considered reputable so check it
out.
Insider Tip: Join the Model Lyfe Private Facebook group on
Facebook where models give other models opinions on agency
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offers before they go and even discuss the markets in general.
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Model Agents
Model agents, is a broad term used to categorise the people who
work in a model agency however they can have very different roles.
Usually an agency is broken up into ‘boards’. These will usually be Men
and Women then within these sections there will be a main board and a
development board. The agents that liase between the clients and the
models are known as ‘bookers’ or in some cases ‘managers’. The
agents who scout the models are known as ‘scouts’.
Mother agents are also scouts. They are the people who discovered
you, developed you and placed you with an agency that books work.
This is the person who is most likely to give you impartial advice. Their
job is to make you the most money they can by moving you around to
the markets in which you will be most successful. A good mother agent
will mix placements up between career markets such as Paris and cities
which are best for your bank account such as Tokyo.
When you are placed with an agency that books you work you are
assigned a booker.
Lets get one thing straight. As a model you are self employed,
completely and utterly in charge of your own career. When you are
‘scouted’ and eventually ‘signed’ to an agency, your model agents are
basically agreeing to be your middle men. Your model agents are not
your boss. In fact, it’s the other way around, you employ them!
So now that you have an employee working towards furthering your
career what are you going to do about it? Here are 5 ideas.
1. Stay in contact with your agent – This is a fine line. You don’t want to
harass them or come across too pushy and unnecessary emails/phone
calls every day will drive them mad but certainly you need to stay in
touch on a regular basis.
2. Tell them what you want – Model agents are not mind readers. They
don’t know if you want to be on the cover of Vogue or on the runway of
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your local shopping centre. If you want to travel, tell them!
3. Give your model agents something to work with – In my opinion the
best way to do this is with new pics. Test shoots are easily available
nowadays so get out there and shoot. But be discerning, bad pictures
can be harmful to your career and if you do get some back that suck, do
not send them to your agents! In a world where you are only as good as
your last picture you need to delete anything that is less than flattering.
4. Put your goals in writing – and give your model agent a copy. List the
photographers you would like to work with, the runway shows you would
like to do, go sees you would like to attend. It’s amazing how things
written down have a habit of actually happening.
5. Inside Tip - Suck Up (just a bit) – Yes slightly unconventional but
I see it work time and time again. Take them some cupcakes on
their birthday, send them a hand written thank you card. As with
anything in life a little thought goes a long way. Your agent is
working hard for you and wants to be treated with respect and
appreciation.
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Ways to Submit
Open Calls
Geographically if you are able to get into an agency for an open call this
is always the best option when looking for representation. Go to the
model agency’s websites and see if it lists a day and time for open calls.
Insider Tip: If it does not I recommend turning up between
3pm-4pm in the afternoon. Do not turn up around lunchtime. You
run the risk of the agent who needs to see you not being there to
see you and as is often the case, in this industry you only get one
chance at a great first impression.
You should wear something fitted and if the weather allows it a short
dress or skirt to show off your legs. Please girls, when I say short I do
not mean bum hanging out short, keep it classy. Stay away from prints,
logos, sequins, glitter, lycra/spandex
Do not wear makeup. A lot of girls are going to ignore me on this one so
I will say if you want to wear makeup, keep it very very minimal. A little
concealer to cover a zit and a tiny splash of clear mascara. If you turn
up with noticeable makeup the agents will take you to the bathroom and
scrub it off and you will end up looking worse for wear.
Do not curl your hair. Smoothing it out with a blow-dry is fine but I would
also stay away from the straightening iron. Remember to bring a hair tie
because if they like you they will want some pictures of you with your
hair tied up!
Put on your heels before you walk into the room. You only get one
chance to make a good first impression. Take a swimsuit with you, I
recommend something black and simple and stay away from a bandeau
style top or anything with frills (it just makes you look bigger). Ultimately
whatever you look best and feel comfortable in is going to be the best
option.
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If you have any pictures bring them along. On an iPad is fine, you really
don’t need to print them out. Do not run out and get professional photos
done before attending an open call. You don’t need them.
I would advise against signing anything on the spot. Take the contract
home and have a think about it. In all the excitement of someone
wanting to sign you, your judgement will not be the best so please sit on
it for 24 hours. Don’t take too long though. That initial excitement is
also felt by the bookers in an agency and you really want to capitalise on
that as quickly as you can.
Email
Keep the photos small, around 200kb per pic is perfect. Name them
appropriately. Submit between 3-5 photos only.
Don’t forget to include your height, city and age.
Here’s another insider tip. Don’t write a long diatribe about how it’s
your dream to be a model and you will do whatever it takes
excetera. It won’t get read.
Here’s an example.
“Hi my name is _________. I’m 16 years old and I live in Sydney,
Australia. I’m 178cm and I wear a size 6.
(Insert pictures here)
Instagram
Many agencies now encourage girls to tag their photos to get scouted on
Instagram. It can definitely work but I wouldn’t rely on it. Agencies
usually have large amounts of followers and keeping up with every
person that has tagged themselves can get overwhelming, so you can
easily fall through the cracks. If you are going to use this method do not
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tag pictures that have been photoshopped or had filters added. Pictures
with your hair hanging over half your face or you with a bunch of your
friends are also completely inappropriate.
Photos really need to be as simple as possible and once again makeup
free. I recommend adding your height in the comments section to really
make sure you get the attention you deserve.
Facebook
As with Instagram this can definitely work. I have scouted quite a few
models personally on Facebook but once again, if you want a definitive
answer submitting via email is really the best way to go.
Competitions
Look, the reality is a lot of these competitions are promotion exercises
and are rigged with the winner being a model who has already been
scouted by the agency. Having said that, you don’t need to win to be
noticed by the right people. If you feel that a competition is the best way
to go then by all means go ahead but really look at your motivations. Is
it because you want to be on TV? Being on TV might not be the best
thing for your career.
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Money You Should Invest Into Your Career
Those in the know will tell you that if an agency asks you to pay a
large amount of money to ‘join’ the agency then they are a rip-off and to
run away as fast as you can. This is absolutely true in almost every
case. However, I often see models swing too far in the other direction.
They are unwilling to invest a single cent into themselves or their
careers. You really need to find a happy medium between the two
extremes. The adage that you need to spend money to make money is
as true in modelling as it is in other careers. Many girls and guys your
age will be at university investing large amounts into their education and
training in the hope it pays off in career opportunities. You really only
need to invest a fraction of that amount to see a big payoff in your
modelling career.
The first place I see models being too stingy is test shoots. Since the
introduction of digital photography every man and his dog calls
themselves a photographer so it’s easier than ever to get test shoots for
free. However, I still often recommend paying for a couple of test shoots
when you are starting out. Now I don’t suggest paying for test shoots
with any willy nilly photographer but if you can shoot with the best of the
best and it’s going to cost you $800 I say go for it. You are going to get
some amazing photos which can only help you to book more work.
Those pics can be used to make an amazing comp card and put up on
your agency website, your Facebook page, your Instagram and your
own website if you have one which should lead to…..more work! Your
pictures are your currency, so getting really amazing ones is worth every
cent. Sometimes your agency will advance these costs. If they are
willing to do this, definitely take them up on the offer.
The second place I see stinginess is with self care. You need to take
care of your body and this means keeping your looks as perfect as they
can be. Make sure your regrowth is done, your nails are manicured.
Get a gym membership if you need to tone up and get a personal trainer
if you are lacking the motivation to do so.
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Insider Tip: Thirdly I think it’s important to invest in travel where
required. Again an agency may advance this cost to you but if they
don’t, get on the freaking plane and get where you need to go. It
doesn’t matter if it’s a bigger market in your own country or
overseas, you will never know if you never go.
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Portfolio Development
Once you have been signed to an agency they will want to start
developing what is know in the industry as your ‘book’. This is also
know as your portfolio and this will usually involve a mixture of paid test
shoots and what in the industry is known as TFP.
So what are TFP shoots and what does TFP stand for? Time For Print.
This means that you give up your time as a model, the photographer
gives up their time as does the stylist, hair and make up artists and any
assistants involved on the shoot. In the old days (pre digital
photography) time for print involved the model being provided with prints
for their books. These days you will usually either be provided with a
disk (although even this is seeing it's final days) or more frequently you
will be sent a link to download your photos via Dropbox or
Wetransfer.com
There are many misconceptions out there about TFP shoots, that they
are a waste of time. Models of all levels will continue to do TFP shoots
throughout their careers.
TFP shoots are to be used for the purposes of providing images for you
and the other creatives that have worked on the shoots in their books.
They are NOT to be used for commercial purposes. So if a designer
asks you to do TFP normally an agency will decline. This is what a
model should essentially be paid for and doing it for free just makes the
industry commercially unviable. That means very, very hard to make a
living as a model.
So you have been asked to do a TFP shoot. What questions should you
ask to make sure it's right for you?
1. Where is it? You shouldn't have to pay to travel.
2. Who is the creative team? (photographers, makeup artists, stylists
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ect.)
3. What are the photos going to be used for?
4. What is the concept? More professional photographers will usually
provide reference shots or a mood board
5. Is there any other model involved in the shoot? In my personal
opinion I don't like models doing shoots that involve multiple models,
unless it is a model of the opposite gender. It is very rare that you can
use this picture in your book. The reason is fairly obvious. If you show
the client your book and they spot the other model they might decide to
book her over you!
6. Approximately how many edited photos will I receive? The edited
photo count is the most important. You make take 1000 photos but at the
end of the day you need edited photos to add to your book. Although all
you need is one amazing shot to make it worth while I would aim for 8 or
more.
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Your Entourage
As a model you need an entourage. So no we are not all Elle
McPherson and can afford to have a large entourage flying with us in our
private jet, checking lights and seeing if an eyelash is out of place. But
you do need a team of people to help you where you need to go. No
one can go it alone.
Hairdresser
Ask for referrals from your model friends or just people with great looking
hair in general.
Insider tip: Many agencies have deals with local salons where
models get a substantial discount or even free services. So ask you
agent if they have an opportunity like that you can take advantage
of.
Manicurist
No need to get all fancy on this one. Your local walk in nail salon is fine.
You are just looking to keep you nails clean and tidy. Don’t get fake
nails, we are not on the set of Jersey Shore.
Personal Trainer
You need to find a trainer that specialises in model bodies. A trainer that
knows how to keep bodies long and lean will be one of your biggest
assets. If money is tight and you can’t afford regular sessions, book in
to have a program designed for you and then check in-s once a month.
Dermatologist
An experienced and qualified dermatologist is essential for the longevity
of a models career. Most top models have regular facials,
microdermabrasion and various other laser treatments to keep their skin
looking fresh and supple.
Agent
The right agent can make or break your career. Make sure you have a
great relationship with your agent at all times.
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Mentor
Competition between models can be fierce but finding someone who is
or has been where you want to go will be invaluable in showing you the
ropes and helping you to advance in your career more quickly than
others.
Accountant
Once you start to earn a living as a model it’s a good idea to find an
accountant who knows the ins and out of the industry for the purposes of
minimising your tax. Their are a multitude of deductions models are
usually entitled to and the right accountant will make sure you are taking
advantage of everything available to you.
Family
Once you are in the industry it’s hard to have a healthy perspective of
what life is like outside modelling. Stay close to your family and have
down time whenever your schedule allows. It will keep you grounded
and make you a better person as well as a better model.
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What To Wear to Castings
Making a good first impression is paramount in this industry. As the
saying goes, “you never get a second chance to make a first
impression”. “A first impression is the event when one person first
encounters another person and forms a mental image of that person” Wikipedia. Like it or not we judge books by their covers and to ignore
this scientific fact is to a models own detriment.
As a model your first impression with a client will be at a casting so
it’s important to consider what you will wear and what sort of image you
wish to portray. If you’re uncertain if it’s best to play it safe and let your
natural and individual beauty shine through. If you’re not sure when
you’re first starting out a good rule of thumb is to keep your clothing
basic and limit your clothing to black, white and grey. No sequins, glitter
or lycra please!
Here are some examples of appropriate clothing
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Jeans (skinny leg) black or dark blue
Fitted cotton shirts (avoid logos)
Skirts
Leather shorts
Black tights
Leather jackets
Nude or Black Stilettos - Not wedges
When you get to the major markets like New York, brands do matter.
Your agency will want you to have brand name shoes at the least and
probably a brand name bag as well. Usually the girls go for labels such
as Alexander Wang, Prada, Miu Miu and Marc Jacobs so keep a look out
for sales on these items in advance so you can pick them up at a
reasonable price.
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31
The Model Bag
So you’ve been signed to an agency and they say to “take your model
bag”. What the heck is a model bag? Well the simple and pretty obvious
answer is that it is full of the tools of the trade you will require at
castings, go sees and jobs.
At a minimum you will need
•
Phone – You’re going to need a smart phone as jobs and castings
will be emailed to you while you are out and about.
•
Portfolio (Either in the traditional sense or an Ipad)
•
Makeup removal wipes
•
A pair of heels
•
Water and Snacks
•
Swimsuit
•
Bandaids – for those blisters you are surely going to get from ill
fitting shoes or the km’s you rack up going from casting to casting.
•
Bobby Pins
•
Safety Pins
•
Hair Ties, Here’s a tip. Put all these little bits and pieces in a pencil
case or even a sandwich bag to keep them from rolling around in
your bag and getting misplaced.
•
Money – at least enough for lunch and a cab fare home.
•
An extra top, in case you spill your morning coffee all over your
front.
•
Concealer
•
Phone Charger
•
Headphones
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Try to keep your model bag as light as possible. Yes you do need all
these things but really think hard about extra things like magazines and
books, upload videos, books and magazines to your iPad or e-reader
and save yourself the weight.
There’s one more thing that should be in there and that is your passport!
Insider Tip: Models, here's what you need to do. Get a passport.
That's it, not that hard. I'm going to say it one more time GET A
PASSPORT!!! You would be surprised how many times I've said "I have
a great job for you next week in New York/Paris/London" only to hear "Oh I don't have my passport"
"My passport has expired"
"I don't know where my passport is"
"I don't have any pages left in my passport"
"My passport is at my brothers house and i can't get it until next week"
"I tried to get my passport but I can't find my birth certificate so I can't get
my passport"
Yep I've had all these said to me this year and more. As a good model
you will travel, you will in fact be paid to travel. Don't miss the
opportunity of a lifetime because you don't have your passport on hand!
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On Set
So you’ve been booked for a job! Yay! Now you need to know what
to do when you get on set. Turn up early, leave plenty of time, you do
not want to arrive stressed out. Have clean dry hair and face unless
stated otherwise. Wear something comfortable that you can easily
change in and out of. Take some food and drinks with you in case the
shoot has not been catered for and try not to eat, drink or smoke in the
clothes you are modelling Ps. You shouldn’t be smoking anyway. If the
dress is satin or linen or something else that can crease easily it would
also be best to avoid sitting too much.
When you are starting out locally the person on set or on location is
likely to be just the photographer. As you move up the ranks a makeup
artist, hair stylist and stylist will be added to the team. When you make
the leap to big productions, you can expect a producer, artistic director
and a number of assistants to join the flurry of activity. The bigger the
budget and the more prestigious, the more people.
The most important part of you job is to be polite and enthusiastic as
much as possible. This may seem like a no brainer but after you’ve shot
40 looks and coming to the end of a 16 hour workday in heels, your feet
are aching and you back is killing you are probably not going to feel to
perky. This is where your professionalism needs to kick in. Models
need to remember that they are part of the team working together to
produce the best possible images.
Insider Tip: You are not the star, the product being sold is the
star. It’s your job to SELL the clothes so make sure they are always
forefront in your mind when choosing positions during the shoot.
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Marketing Yourself
The marketing of models has changed dramatically in the past 5
years. With the establishment of social media as mainstream, you can
no longer rely on your agency to get your image out there. The bottom
line is that models with large social media followings book more jobs.
Full stop. In fact in the past year I have begun to see job briefs come
through that actually ask agents to state the social media following
numbers of each model they are proposing. In this video, so and so
admits that her contracts with clients now include a clause that she must
post certain amounts of content at certain times to her million followers.
Clients who ignore social media are stuck in the dark ages and models
who ignore it’s power are committing career suicide.
The major 4 social media networks to concentrate on are:
• Facebook
• Instagram
• Tumblr
• Twitter
Take a look on your favourite social media platform and follow some of
your favourite models. Note the frequency of their posts and the
message they are portraying. Keep it light, keep it fun, keep it
interesting.
What not to do:
I have noticed a great number of faux pax’s on models social media
accounts. In most cases common sense prevails but just in case you are
under any confused as to what is appropriate here is a list of things not
to say/do.
•
•
•
•
Nudity - It will get your account taken down
Saying “I’m so fat” “I’ve put on 10kg” “I wish I was as skinny as I
was last year” and things of this nature.
Swearing
Controversy - You might think you are being funny with a pretend
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•
•
•
joint but it will come back and bite you in the ass
Negativity in general about designers, other models
Overdoing boyfriend shots. Keep yourself desirable and available.
Unless your boyfriend is famous;)
Religious or political views
Your goal is to make yourself look like a busy in demand model.
Here are some ideas of what you can post
• Flying/tickets/trains act
• Street Style
• Makeup Chair Selfies
• Selfies in general
• Workouts (pilates, running, yoga)
• Magazine Tears
• Runway shots
• Red Carpet Shots
• Animal pics
• Inspirational quotes
• Throwback shots to childhood
• Locations
• Famous friends
• Model friends (as long as you look just as good next to them)
Things to be careful of
If posting actual behind the scenes get the permission of the stylist,
photographer or designer
Tag everything. Try to give everyone credit who is even remotely
involved in the shot. These people may include
• Photographer
• Stylist
• Your agency
• Hair Stylist
• Makeup Artist
• Any assistants on set
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•
•
Studio
Clothing Labels
Insider Tip: So which social media platform should you concentrate
on if you only have time to maintain one? My suggestion is
Instagram. It’s a highly visual medium which is suited to this
highly visual industry.
Remember your beauty is your currency. Use it. Build your following.
So what is a good number of people to have following you? I would say
anything is better than nothing but I think after 3000 you will notice some
traction and momentum starting to build. Don’t delay, start early and be
consistent with your posting. Once to twice per day is ideal but don’t
post less than twice a week. People will forget about you and frankly you
won’t seem that busy or in demand.
Make sure you give a little too. Follow the movers and shakers in your
local industry, designers, casting directors, magazine editors, stylists,
makeup artists, photographers. Positively ‘like’ and compliment their
work. Not every picture and definitely not all at once. You don’t want to
seem like a stalker after all.
Want to go one step further and start your mini empire???
Start Here
First things first, you need to register your domain name. I suggest
yourname.com so for example mine is SummerFisher.com I registered
it in 1999 (I think). It’s $8 a year and one of the best investments you will
ever make. Protect your name for all it’s worth. If you have a common
name and yourname.com is not available you may want to go for
yournamemodel.com so for example mine would be
summerfishermodel.com or throw your middle name in there if it’s not
too long.
Now you want to set up a little website. If you don’t know the first thing
37
about websites I would head on over to a site like odesk.com or
elance.com, and hire someone to put up one for you. This should cost
no more than $100. Ask them to use Wordpress and show you how to
update the backend yourself so you can add pictures and new work as
required.
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Creating Buzz and Sustaining Momentum
I’ll let you in on a little secret. The most beautiful girls do not get the
most work and make the most money. What then does make a model
who books all the work and have them rolling around in $100 dollar bills?
Insider Tip: One word. Buzz.
The best agents know how to create buzz, to have everyone believing
that the girl they are representing is the next big thing. But you don’t
need to rely on someone else to do it for you. You can learn to create
your own buzz.
Remember that girl at school who everyone thinks is so beautiful?
She has everyone thinking she is the best thing since sliced bread, the
guys are falling over themselves to get a date with her and the girls are
desperate to be like her. But…..she has everyone fooled. Because if
you were to ask a stranger in another town who had never heard of her,
objectively if they think that she’s beautiful 9 times out of 10 they would
say no. She has such confidence in herself and such an innate ability
to project it that everyone follows along with her.
This game is about perception as much as anything. If people
perceive you to be the next big thing they will book you. You need to
believe it yourself too.
The first thing to remember is that buzz can not be sustained forever.
You can’t be the next big thing for 3 years. You need to choose your
timing, this is where sustaining momentum comes into the picture.
Momentum is phase you go into after you have created buzz. Look at
this like a surfer catching a wave. You see the perfect wave coming and
you paddle for it, you have to push hard and paddle to get on it and once
you are riding the wave you really need to balance to stay on it without
wiping out and then keep your skill to ride it all the way to the shore.
Not every wave that comes along will be the perfect wave. Surfers
39
don’t catch every wave they see, they wait for the right one and then
commit fully.
The same thing is true in the model world. You might book a job and
it’s big enough and well known enough to start creating some real buzz.
Now is the time to capatilize. You need to push hard. This is your
moment and you need to grab it with both hands. Tell everybody you
know about this big job. At castings when they ask what you have been
up to lately, tell them about the “big job” you just shot. Once you are on
that wave don’t get off for any reason. If a job conflicts with a friends
birthday party, ditch the party. If another job is on when you were going
to go on holiday, don’t go. You don’t know how many perfect waves
there might be and for all you know, there might only ever be one, so
ride it with all you’ve got. You will feel the momentum start to snowball
and this will move you up to the next level.
40
International Markets
As your modelling career progresses you should have the opportunity
to travel to different markets around the world. There are at least 20
markets that you can potentially work full time. In this book I cover just 8
of the top markets to give you an idea of the differences and what to look
for in working out where to travel to further your career and make
money.
New York
Best for: Career
Standard Commission: 20%
New York is the end goal for many models and it’s true that if you can
make it here you can make it anywhere. Saying it is highly competitive
is an understatement. It’s cut throat and you really need to have your
head screwed on and be ready to hustle when you get there.
New York can be highly lucrative, the day rates are high and there is
a lot of work - for the right model. Height is important in New York, 5’9
really is the absolute minimum and it has even got to the stage where
this is considered short. A model who is 5’10 is ideal as they are able to
do both the runway, print and commercial jobs. Measurements are also
much stricter. A model whose hips are 36 inches or above are going to
find it much harder to work and may not even be able to get an agent.
The model apartments in New York are generally average at best and
models often stay in Brooklyn to keep costs down. You will also need to
budget for a monthly subway pass is around $104USD a month.
Often the biggest stumbling blocks to working in New York and
America in general is getting your working visa. The visa you will be
wanting to get your hands on is an O-1 visa. In order to get one of these
you will have to find an agency that will sponsor your application. This
type of visa generally lasts 3 years and costs around $6000. In most
41
cases the agency in New York will advance this cost along with the cost
of your accommodation.
Watch out for the promoters in New York. Promoters are paid by the
nightclubs to bring in good looking girls to entice the male clientele to the
club. Models are wooed with free dinners and drinks. While partying
hard for free may seem like a lot of fun most girls quickly realise they are
being used and the partying does them no favours.
Another more recent development is that in October 2013 the
government passed a law making it increasingly difficult for models
under 18 to work in New York so it's really becoming more and more a
market for established models.
Insider tip: The top agencies are IMG, DNA, Wilhelmina, Women,
One, Supreme, Ford, The Lions, Next, The Society
*Note - The best agencies change on a regular basis as at mid 2014
these are the best in my personal opinion. There are a plethora of
agencies in New York so this is not an extensive list, merely the top 10
as they stand currently on Models.com.
Paris
Best for: Career
Standard Commission: There doesn’t appear to be a standard.
Please check before signing with an agency but you can usually expect
something high!
Paris is a great place to build your book with the many talented
photographers in the city. A word of warning though, many girls find it
hard to make significant money, especially in the beginning. It’s a tough
city to establish yourself and many models really don’t see the dollars
start to roll in until their third or fourth trip. Paris love tall girls so if you
are on the short side you may want to consider putting the market a bit
lower on your list of priorities
42
Learning to ride the metro in Paris is thankfully one of the easiest in
the world. There are stops every 3 minutes which makes travelling
around the city in general fairly straight forward.
Paris is the home of haute couture and the last stop on the fashion
week circuit. So if you are a show girl you will find yourself in this city in
February and late September/October for Haute Couture and again for
Ready to Wear in January and September.
Months of the year you want to avoid going to Paris are the Summer,
in particular July and August. As is the case with most of Europe the
agencies actually close for at least 3 weeks in August. So unless you
want to just hang out, which of course could be fun also, you should
make a bee line for another market.
Insider tip: The top agencies in Paris are Viva, IMG, City,
Women, Marilyn, Oui, Ford, Next
London
Best for: Career and Money
Standard Commission: 20% although there are some agencies that
charge up to 37.5%
London is one of those cities models either love or hate. In recent
years I have personally found many of my models have wanted to base
themselves in London. There is work for editorial and commercial
models alike with online clients like Asos and Net-a-Porter and also a
significant amount of television advertisement work providing a steady
stream of revenue to girls who tend towards the more commercial look.
Hair bookings are also plentiful in this city but be careful with these, or
you might find yourself with a hot pink pixie cut and out of work for the
next 2 years! Paris is just a short train ride away from London and the
rest of Europe is at your doorstep so it can be a great place to set
yourself up within Europe. That is if you don’t mind the weather!
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Insider tip: The top agencies in London are Premiere, Tess, Viva,
Nevs, M & P, FM, Storm, Models1, Next, Select, Union
Seoul
Best for: Money
Seoul is a highly underrated market at this point in time. I find that
girls can make more money and better editorial even than Tokyo. This
market is great for you if you are 5’7 to 5’10, blonde with a sweet young
face, white skin and an underwear body (B cup bra). As is the case in
most of Asia the work is likely to be cheesy but there are some
campaigns that can pay good money. It is really really important to track
your jobs in Seoul. Even established agencies here like to tell little lies,
they will book you for a campaign but tell you it’s a look book and pocket
the difference. This shouldn’t turn you off going to Seoul, it just means
that you need to be vigilant and question things if there appears to be
any inconsistencies.
Contracts are generally 60 to 90 days. If you can secure a 60 day
contract that can be extended to 90 days if you are working well. This
puts you in the best bargaining position to raise your guarantee.
There is work in Seoul called home shopping modelling. Basically
this is like the underwear ads you see on a home shopping network like
QVC. The days are long and tedious and I have had models ask me to
make sure this type of modelling was excluded from their contract.
However, I find that many jobs in Seoul run overtime so the home
shopping jobs are really no different from a catalogue that runs overtime.
As is the case in Tokyo you will be paid in cash the day before you
leave, if you feel there are any discrepancies in the work you have
tracked and what’s listed on the job list try to resolve this before you
leave.
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There are several publications in Seoul that offer great tear sheets for
your book including Elle, Vogue, Avenuel, Galleria and Heren
Insider tip: The top agencies in Seoul are Dobe, W, MDI, 7th,
Hanamaroo
Sydney
Best For: Lifestyle
Sydney is a great market when you are starting your model career.
The weather is usually good, the people are friendly and it’s more laid
back than many of the major markets. In recent years, Sydney has
become a very tough market to be successful in due to intense
competition. Australian models are in hot demand worldwide and they
love to work in the home country. The models that are the most
successful in this market are usually crossover girls that can do both
commercial and editorial. This is one market where a model who is 5’7
can work well, provided they are amazing of course, as the online stores
shoot often and prefer the girls not to be a runway height. Super skinny
editorial girls may pick up some magazine tear sheets but they will be
unlikely to make a lot of money in Sydney.
Contracts in Sydney are usually around 2 months for those coming
from overseas. The agencies will advance accommodation and airfares
but pocket money will be the responsibility of the model. Fashion week
is held at the beginning of April each year and this is the busiest time.
Insider tip: The top agencies in Sydney are IMG, Priscilla’s,
Vivien’s, EMG, Work
Auckland
Best For: Editorial
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New Zealand is a beautiful country and many talented photographers
start their careers here so it stands to reason that if you need to build
your book Auckland is a great option for you. If you are looking to make
a lot of money you are probably looking in the wrong place however, a
good model will hopefully make enough to pocket some money after
expenses. Most agencies will expect you to pay for your own flight while
others will advance accommodation expenses.
Contracts in Auckland are generally best when kept short, around 3
weeks. However, if you go around fashion week in September up to 4
weeks would be fine.
Insider tip: The top agencies are Clyne, 62, Red 11, N Models
Tokyo
Best For : Money
Type of Model: The girls that are the most successful in Japan are
usually the ones who look like dolls. This generally means the girls are
younger, although you will find models in their mid twenties. They are
likely to be well established and have done a number of trip to Tokyo
already throughout their careers, and…they will lie about their age, the
agents tell them to. The best height is around 5’9 (175cm) but you will
find girls from 5’7-5’11 depending on the agency.
Tokyo is a great market for a new model learning the ropes for the
first time. You are driven to all your castings in a van and you get the
experience of many castings and many jobs in a short amount of time. It
is also great for established models to make a lot of money once they
have a great book. I like to call Tokyo the ATM of the modelling world.
You go there to make your money withdrawal for the hard work you have
put into your book for other markets.
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As is the case in many Asian markets you will most likely be doing
many cheesy jobs which will more than likely include a lot of bridal work.
While there is some editorial in Tokyo, it is not as good as it used to be
10 years ago. Unless you can land a great editorial in a magazine like
Spur or Vogue it is unlikely that you will use any of the pictures that you
amass from your trip.
You will be expected to know how to ‘pose’. This basically involves
doing large numbers of cheesy poses in a short amount of time. There is
a lot of finger pointing involved and the clients will usually say Kawaii
100 times per shoot. Before you go it’s a good idea to ask an
established model who has been there some tips on posing or take a
look at some look books from Japanese designers and practise doing to
poses so you have a repertoire ready when you get there.
Another great thing I love about the market in Tokyo is that the
models are paid as soon as the contract ends and before they leave the
country, usually in cash. This is regardless of whether the models clients
have paid or not.
Insider tip: The top agencies are Bravo, Image, White, Zucca,
Donna
*Note - The best agencies change on a regular basis as of mid 2014
these are the best in my personal opinion.
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Are you really cut out for modelling?
Modelling is an amazing career. I have two daughters and many
people ask me if I would let them model. The answer is yes. If that’s
what they absolutely wanted to do and if it turns out their personalities
and physics are well suited then I would say sure. But….not everyone is
cut out for the industry.
Here are a few reasons this career may not be for you.
Lack of Structure
If you love routines and structure being a model will be very
challenging for you. You never know what’s happening one day to the
next. Models usually receive their schedules only the night before so
there is very little time to plan. There is a lot of change throughout the
day. Your agent will be ringing you constantly with new jobs and
cancellations. You may need to travel with a few hours notice so if you
are someone who likes plenty of planning this is going to be very tough
for you and you need to adjust fast.
Loneliness
Loneliness can be debilitating for some models. Close friendships
are formed from living together for 2 or 3 months and then you are off
again to another market, leaving behind the people you love. Being
away from your family at a young age is just as difficult. It’s important to
realise that the first 2 weeks are always the hardest, usually you settle in
after that. I would advise you to ask your friends and family before you
leave on a trip to stay positive and not say constantly that they miss you
and they want you to come home. Explain to them that you are doing
this to further your career and at this point you need them to be behind
you in a positive manner. Posting about missing people on Facebook
and Instagram does not help anyone.
Relationships
Romantic relationships are tested. I see it time and time again, girls
giving up their careers for the man of their dreams only to realise it
48
wasn’t the man of their dreams and then when they try to model again
it’s too late. Boyfriends and partners also find it very hard. While their
girlfriend is out traveling the world, working in exotic locations with the
most good looking people on the planet, they can become insecure,
jealous and resentful. This may sound harsh but if I scout a girl quite
young I advise her not to get into a long term relationship if she wants to
model full time. Long distance relationships are hard enough but add
onto that the pressure of the realities of the model industry and 9 times
out of 10 it’s a reciepe for disaster. Don’t get me wrong, there are
relationships that survive and once you achieve a certain level of
success it becomes easier in some way but these cases are in the
minority.
Rejection
You will suffer through more rejection in a month of modelling than
most people do for their entire lives. You will hear ‘no’ over and over.
While agents may shield you from some of the no’s a good portion are
going to come right to you, and yep, it can hurt. The best personalities
are the ones that frankly just don’t care. Develop a thick skin as soon as
you can.
Constant Scrutiny
I have been picked apart at every level, your nose has a bump on it,
you’re too fat, you’re too skinny, you’re too tall, you have lines under you
eyes. I’ve heard it all. Then there’s picking apart your personality, you’re
too shy your voice is too high blah blah blah. You really need to learn to
let these criticisms roll off you back. If you don’t they will eat you up
inside and you will never book the work you need to be successful.
Money
As a model you can go months without getting paid and then all of a
sudden get a job worth tens of thousands of dollars. You never have
much of an idea about how much money is going to come in and it
49
makes it very hard to budget. My advice is always to budget for the lean
times. There will be times when you wonder why all the jobs have dried
up and you need to be able to support yourself through these times. If
you’re not good at money then find an accountant or financial advisor
who can show you the basics. I have seen so many models get excited
by making some big bucks on some big jobs and blow their money on
shoes, handbags and partying only to find themselves in the horrible
broke/desperate cycle which makes it even harder to book work.
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What will your life look like after modelling? "What!" you say, "I'm 18
why do I care what I'll be doing when I'm 28”. Well you should care.
The best time to build your career for after modelling is while you are at
the peak of you modelling career or even better, when you're just getting
started. Why waste all this effort building this fabulous career and life for
yourself only to have to go back to working in retail.
Here's some ideas from models who have come before you.
Become an actress (Milla Jovovich, Amber Valetta, Charlize Theron,
Cameron Diaz, Tyra Banks)
Join a band (Karen Elson, Irina Lazareanu)
Be a Photographer (Helena Christensen, Banks again)
Start a beauty line (Miranda Kerr)
Start a yoga line (Christy Turlington),
Start a clothing label (Kate Moss, Erin Wasson),
Start a jewelry line (too many to count),
Start a furniture line (Cindy Crawford),
Run a charity (too many to count)
Run for Estonian Parliament (Carmen Kass)
Marry rich (Kirsty Hinze)
Become the First Lady of France (Carla Bruni).
Sell cookies (Karlie Kloss)
Host a reality show (Karolina Kurkova, Coco Rocha, Naomi)
Become a Stylist (L'wren Scott)
Street Style Photographer (Candice Lake)
51
Persistence
The first model I ever represented I submitted to agencies and received
forty no’s, she is now a worldwide superstar.
I am never daunted by no’s. In fact I collect them as badges of honour
nowadays. Collecting no’s is not something that has come easily but
something I’ve learned from being in this game as a model and now as
an agent for 18 years.
In fact, I’m a bit geeky and I actually keep a list of no’s and make sure I
get to at least 100 a month. If I’m not hitting that target I’m not pushing
myself or my models enough.
Do I ever waiver? Sure, after a lot of no’s sometimes I wonder if my
judgement on assessing a girls potential is off. But I’ve come to learn the
hard way that my judgement is rarely off, it’s just finding someone else
who sees my vision and this, my friends, is a numbers game.
Most people are not willing to move past the no’s. They will take 10 or 20
and then start to second guess themselves, this is the kiss of death,
don’t do it, keep collecting no’s.
My advice is to remove all emotion, yes I know a hard thing to do for
girls but look at it as a purely mathematical equation. The odds are in
your favour, ask enough people to help you towards your goals and you
are bound to find someone to help you get a step closer.
Diversify your no’s, tried 10 agencies in Australia? Why not try Turkey.
Tried big editorial agencies? Why not look at a boutique commercial
agency. Tried emailing? Why not try showing up at the next open
call. Can’t seem to book a campaign? Try a commercial audition.
If you really want this you will find a way to make it work, otherwise for
the next fifty years you’ll just tell everyone the excuses/reasons it didn’t
52
work out…your choice.
53
Here are a list of terms frequently used in the modelling industry.
Booker - The agent who books your work liaising between the client and
the model.
Booking - Refers to a job that has been booked for the model.
Call time - The time you need to arrive at the job or the test shoot (be
early don’t ever be late!)
Call sheet - The information you will need for your job the next day.
This will include time, location, the name and phone numbers of the
team and anything else you might need.
Casting - There is a specific job and the model is going to see the client
to see if they are suitable for that specific job.
Catalogue - Catalogues are also a set of photographs but together but
generally used to show the designers collection direct to consumers.
Certificate of Residency - The paperwork to prove that you are a
resident of a certain country for tax purposes.
Confirmation - The model has been confirmed for the job.
Cover - The cover of a magazine
Cover Try - The model is shooting a picture that could possibly end up
on the cover of the magazine
Editorial - The fashion pages in a magazine
Expenses Guarantee - The agency agrees to cover your expenses
only. These usually include at least airfare, accommodation, composite
cards and occasionally pocket money.
54
Fitting - This is where they fit the clothes to you exactly before a show
or a shoot.
Go See - The model is going to see a client with no particular job in
mind.
Gross Guarantee - This is the total amount they guarantee you will
bring in from jobs before commissions and other deductions are taken
out.
H & M - Hair and Makeup
In pocket Guarantee - This is the amount in pocket you will make when
your contract is finished. Common in Asian markets such as Tokyo.
Look Book - A set of photographs collated in a small book or online that
are put together for marketing purposes that display a designers
collection to his clients.
Measurements - These refer to your Height, Bust, Waist and Hip size.
Model Apartment/House - This is the apartment where the models live
when they are in a city other than their own. The agency either owns or
organises these apartments
Model Bag - The bag you need to bring to your shoot with essentials
like shoes, underwear ect.
Model Van - This is the van, usually in Asia, that all the models are
driven around in to go to castings.
Mother Agent - The person who discovers you, develops you and then
manages your international movement and career.
MUA - Makeup Artist
55
Net Guarantee - This is the amount in pocket you will receive after
commissions are taken out.
Option - 1st Option, 2nd option - The model is being held for a job. 1st
option means the client has first option on the client and 2nd option
means that if the first option cancels the model is available to the second
option client.
Pay amount + agency = The base amount of pay and the agency
percentage they are adding to the top. Note they will still take their
standard percentage as well.
Presentation - A less expensive version of a runway show where the
model remains static like a mannequin.
Schedule - Your list of appointments for the following day, these can
include such things as castings, jobs, go-sees, fittings and shows.
Show - The runway show a designer puts on to show his collection to
his clients.
Submission - A shoot you do on a spec basis that the photographer is
planning on submitting to a specific or several magazines.
Tear Sheet - The magazine pages models ‘tear’ out of the magazine to
put into their book. Although nowadays they just scan it in and put it in a
file.
TFP - Stands for Time for Print. The model gives their time, the
photographer gives their time and everyone gets photos they can use for
their portfolio.
Usage - The amount they will use the pictures they have taken. This
includes the amount of time, the countries and territories and the
publications.
56
57
I hope you enjoyed readingthis book as much as I did writing it.
As a thank you I would love to give you some FREE bonuses to help
you reach that next level in your career
Click on the following link TheModelLyfe.Com/bookbonus and for your
surprise gifts!
I blog weekly over on my website TheModelLyfe.com so definitely
head on over to check it out.
If you think you have what it takes to be a model don’t forget to email
me your submission [email protected]
Hangout with me at Facebook.com/themodellyfe
58

Insider Secrets From A Model Agent

Transcription

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