100cc YAK-54 Assembly Manual

100cc YAK-54 ARF-QB
(Quick Build)
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
AEROWORKS
401 Laredo St. Unit “D” - Aurora, CO. 80011
www.aero-works.net
1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
Aeroworks Contact Information ………………………………………………………………. 3
Introduction / Warranty…………………………………………………………………………. 4
Kit Contents……………………………………………………………………………………… 5
Items Needed To Complete ……………………………………………………………………... 7
Tightening and Re-shrinking The Covering ………………………………………………….. 8
Check Seams and Overlaps for Good Seal / Sealing hinge gaps …………………………….. 9
Applying clear covering to the leading edge of wings and stabs……………………………… 10
Wing Assembly………………………………………………………………….……………….. 13
Stab and Elevator Assembly……………………………………………………………………. 21
Rudder and Tail wheel Assembly ……………………………………………………………...
26
Main Landing Gear Assembly ……..…………………………………………………………... 38
Engine, Muffler or Canister and Throttle servo installation……………..…………………... 43
Ignition Module Installation…………………………………………………………………….. 56
Fuel Tank Installation…………………………………………………………………………… 58
Cowl Installation…………………………………………………………………………………. 64
Radio Installation ………………………………………………………………………………... 73
Preflight Preparation …………………………………………………………………………….. 78
Decal installation ………………………………………………………………………………… 80
Center of Gravity / Control Throws ……………………………………………………………. 84
Preflight Check List ……………………………………………………………………………... 87
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401 Laredo Unit D
Aurora, CO 80011
Phone: (303) 366-4205
Fax: (303) 366-4203
Website: www.aero-works.net
E-mail: [email protected]
Thank you for choosing the Aeroworks 100cc YAK-54 ARF-QB. We put great effort
into making this plane the best model you will ever build and fly. We have provided you
with the highest quality kit and performance possible. We wish you great success in the
assembly and flying of your new Aeroworks 100cc YAK-54 ARF-QB.
!WARNING!
An R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and property
damage. Fly only in open areas, and AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved
flying sites. Follow all instructions included with your plane, radio, and engine.
Aeroworks manufacturing guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material
and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component
parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Aeroworks liability exceed the
original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Aeroworks reserves the right to change or
modify this warranty without notice.
In that Aeroworks has no control over the final assembly or materials used for final assembly, No liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the
use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the userassembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
We, as the kit manufacturer, have provided you with a top quality, thoroughly tested
kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and fly ability of your finished model
depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or
implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.
3
INTRODUCTION
Your new 100cc YAK-54 ARF-QB is a highly aerobatic airplane. It is capable of both precision and 3-D maneuvers. The aircraft builds easily, quickly, and precisely due to its state
of the art CAD design, LASER cut technology, and high quality included hardware. We
hope you enjoy building and flying your 100cc YAK-54 ARF-QB.
Great care has been taken in both the design and manufacturing of the 100cc YAK-54 ARFQB to allow for the strongest and lightest construction possible. Only the highest quality materials from the covering, paint, wood and hardware have been used in the construction of
this model.
The 100cc YAK-54ARF-QB has been individually hand built, covered and painted by
trained and experienced craftsmen with over 25 years of manufacturing experience. Using
CAD design, laser cut technology and jig-built assures accuracy in all stages of production.
The 100cc YAK-54ARF-QB is designed for gas engines in the 100cc category. The DA100cc engine is shown in the assembly instructions. The aircraft was tested with the DA100cc and has outstanding performance. The final choice of engine is left up to the builder.
A computer radio is recommended to allow the pilot to take advantage of the full capabilities
of this aerobatic aircraft.
IMPORTANT Please read through this assembly manual carefully, before starting the assembly of your new 100cc YAK-54ARF-QB . Inventory and inspect all parts and hardware
for any imperfections or damage. Please notify Aeroworks immediately if there are
missing or damaged parts.
INTENDED USE
This plane should not be regarded as a toy. This is an aerobatic plane and is recommended for pilots
who are beyond the trainer-stage and are comfortable with flying an aerobatic sport plane.
!READ!
WARRANTY
!READ!
It is important to notify Aeroworks of any damage or problems with the model within 30
days of receiving your airplane to be covered under warranty. If you wish to return this aircraft for any reason a 15% restock fee will be charged to the customer. In addition the customer is responsible for all return shipping cost and all prior shipping cost will not be refunded. Parts will be exchanged or replaced once the original item is returned at the owner’s
expense. If you have any problems or questions, please contact Aeroworks.
Aeroworks cannot insure the skill of the modeler and can not influence the builder during the
construction or use of this aircraft, and therefore, will not be accountable for any property
damage, bodily injury or death caused by this aircraft.
Aeroworks cannot insure the skill of the modeler and can not influence the builder during the
construction or use of this aircraft, and therefore,
The purchaser/operator accepts all responsibility of any and all structural or
mechanical failures.
4
KIT CONTENTS
100cc YAK-54 ARF-QB
Basic Aircraft Parts:
(1) 3.5(o.d.) x1250mm Antenna guide tube installed
(2) 3.5(o.d.) x70mm rudder pull-pull exit tubes
installed
Fuselage - vertical fin installed – covered, engine
box & firewall installed - fuel-proofed - pre drilled for
mounting of the tail wheel.
(4) 8-32 blind nuts installed for main landing gear
(4) 4-40 blind nuts installed for the mounting of the
stab
(6) 4-40 blind nuts installed for the mounting of the
cowling
(2) 4-40 blind nuts installed for the mounting of
landing gear hatch cover
(1) Hatch cover for the landing gear –covered,
installed by (2) 4-40x16mm hex style bolts and
(2) 3mm flat washers
(1) Canopy base-painted, installed on the fuselage by
(4) 4-40 blind nuts and (4) 4-40x14mm hex style
bolts
(1) Tinted Canopy—glued on the canopy base and
painted
(4) #6 bonded washers for the mounting of the
canopy base
(4) 3mm split lock washers for the mounting of the
canopy base
Left Wing with Aileron – covered: Pre-drilled for the
mounting of the control horns
(2) 8-32 blind nuts installed for the wing mounting.
(2) Aluminum anti-rotation dowels - installed predrilled hole for cotter pin installation
(8) pin point hinges (glued) Read to fly
(2) Aileron servo strings installed
Right Wing with Aileron – covered: Pre-drilled for the
mounting of the control horns
(2) 8-32 blind nuts installed for the wing mounting.
(2) Aluminum anti-rotation dowels - installed predrilled hole for cotter pin installation
(8) pin point hinges installed (glued) Read to fly
(2) Aileron servo strings installed
Horizontal Stabilizer with elevator assembly—covered
(10) pin point hinges (glued) -Ready to fly
Elevators Pre-drilled for the mounting of the
control horns
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(2) 4-40 solder coupler
(2) 4-40 Metal clevises
(8) Brass spacers – 4 for ailerons; 2 for elevators; 1 for
throttle; 1 for choke
(14) 4-40 Ball Links – 8 for ailerons; 4 for elevators; 1
for throttle; 1 for choke
(14) 4-40x16mm hex style bolts
(14) 4-40 lock nuts
(1) 12” 4-40 Carbon tube- pushrod reinforcement
Rudder with (7) pin point hinges (not glued) – covered
Rudder Pre-drilled for the mounting of the control horns
and tail wheel steering arm.
SUB ASSEMBLIES:
#1:
(1) Fiberglass Cowling- painted with (6) pre drilled
screw holes - pre installed engine baffling
(6) 4-40x16mm hex style bolts for mounting cowling
(6) #6 bonded washers for mounting cowling
(6) 3mm split lock washer for mounting cowling
#7:
(2) 1x1300mm plastic coated pull-pull steel cable.
(4) 4-40 Metal R/C links with metal clevises and nuts
(4) 3.5x5mm brass pull-pull swaging tubes
(8) AL double control horns
(48) T2.6x16mm Phillips head mounting screws
(2) 4-40 Ball Links
(2) 4-40x16mm hex style bolts
(2) 4-40 lock nuts
#2:
(1) 5mm 7075Aluminum Main Landing Gear -- painted
(2) 5x48mm AL Axle Bolts
(2) M8 lock nuts
(4) 5mm i.d. Wheel Collars with set-screws
(2) 100mm Dia. Main Wheels (Lite Type)
(4) 4-40x16mm hex style bolts for mounting wheel
pants
(4) 3mm flat washer for mounting wheel pants
(4) 3mm split ring lock washer for mounting wheel
pants
(4) 8-32x20mm hex head bolts for mounting main
landing gear
(4) 4mm flat washers for mounting main landing gear
(4) 4mm split ring lock washers for mounting main
landing gear.
#8:
(1) 1000cc (34 ounce) Gas Fuel Tank assembly (Fuel)
(1) 750cc (25 ounce) Gas Fuel Tank assembly (Smoke)
(1) 4ft. large gas fuel line
#9:
(2) Throttle – Choke servo mounting plate
(2) Engine mounting template (DA100 and 3W100)
(3) 1.6x102x610mm balsa sheet
(8) 11mm O.D. x20mm silicon tubes – canister pipe
(1) Pre cut balsa wood sheet for under radio and tank
floor and back of former (3pcs/set)
(4) Rubber gourmets - fuel line and servo wire guides
(1) Pre cut plywood Radio floor
(1) Cowl template - cutting Air exit holes, (3pcs/set)
(1) 160x100x6mm foam for the Fuel tank.
(1) 160x70x6mm foam for the smoke tank
(2) 300x80x8mm foam for the receiver and battery
(10) 3mm Nylon ties- fuel line
(8) 8mm Nylon ties - fuel tank
(1) 610x20mm Velcro Strap - Receiver -Batteries
#3:
(2) Wheel Pants- Painted- pre mounted- 1 Left and 1
Right-(4) 4-40 blind nuts installed in the wheel pants, 2 per
side.
#4:
(1) AL Tail Wheel Assembly -- Large
#5:
(1) 40mm O.D. x 968mm Aluminum wing tube Anodized black
(1) 12.5mm O.D. x 226mm Aluminum stab tube-Front
Anodized black
(1) 12.5mm O.D. x 465mm Aluminum stab tube– Rear
Anodized black
(4) 8-32x30mm Hex head bolts for wing mounting
(4) #8 bonded washer for wing mounting
(4) 4mm split ring lock washers for wing mounting
(4) 4-40x16mm Hex style head bolts for stab mounting
(4) #6 bonded washer for stab mounting
(4) 3mm split ring lock washers for stab mounting
(4) 1.8mm cotter pins - Second method -wing mounting
for security
#10: Ultracote™
(1) 600x300mm Dark Yellow #889- Small repairs
(1) 300x300mm True Red #866- Small repairs
(1) 300x300mm White #870 - Small repairs
(1) 300x300mm Midnight Blue #885 - Small repairs
(1) 600x300mm Transparent covering -Sealing hinge
gaps
(2) 1800x20mm Transparent covering strip – Sealing
wing and stab leading edges
#11:
(24) 6mm aluminum engine stand offs.
#6:
(4) 4-40 2-1/2” Two end threaded pushrod with nuts and
clevises for ailerons
(2) 4-40 3” Two end threaded pushrod with nuts and
clevises for elevators
(2) 4-40x300mm Threaded pushrod –Throttle and
Choke
#12:
(1) AW - Custom throw meter – measure control
surface deflection
#13:
(1) Custom -Vinyl Decal Set
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ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE
Hardware:
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100cc gas engine with ignition, mufflers or
headers, with canisters or pipes, and all engine
mounting bolts, lock nuts, and washers.
4” Spinner and propeller of your choice
4 x aileron servos (min 180 in./oz. Digital, Metal
gear)
1 or 2 x rudder servos (min 180 in./oz each or
300 in./oz. total torque, Digital, Metal gear)
2 x elevator servos (min 180 in./oz. Digital,
Metal gear)
1 x throttle servo (fast / reliable)
1 x choke servo (fast / reliable) (Optional)
Servo extensions - Heavy Duty - (22 gauge min)
3 x Y harness, 2 x 6,” 2 x 12,” 2 x 18”, 2 x 36”
1 Receiver (PCM)
1 x Receiver battery (min 6.0 volt / 1700ma)
1 x Ignition battery (min 4.8 volt / 1700ma)
2 switches with charge jacks (22 Gauge min)
Allen wrenches US and Metric.
Dremel cutting disc and sanding drum tool
Electric drill and selection of bits
Flat head screwdriver
Hobby heat gun
Hobby iron
Masking tape
Modeling knife
Needle nose pliers or crimping tool
Paper towels
Pen, pencil or felt tipped marker
Phillips screwdriver
Ruler and tape measure
Scissors
T pins
Waxed paper
Wire Cutters
Adhesives:
Tools:
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15-30 Minute epoxy
Blue Loctite
Epoxy mixing cups, sticks, brushes
CA kicker (optional)
Thick and Thin CA
Rubbing alcohol
Wipes
!WARRING!
Some rubbing alcohols
may attack painted parts.
7
TIGHTENING AND RE-SHRINKING THE COVERING
1. Open your kit slowly and take care not to damage any parts of the kit. Remove all parts from
their plastic protective covers for inspection.
Before doing any assembly or installation of any
decals it is very important to re-shrink or retighten the already applied covering. Due to the
shipping process, heat and humidity changes
from different climates, the covering may become lose and wrinkle in the sun. If you take the
time to re-tighten the covering, you will be rewarded with a long lasting beautifully covered
model.
3. If bubbles persist, use a small pin to punch holes
in the bubble to relieve trapped air and reheat.
4. Use your heat gun with extreme caution. Take
care not to apply too much heat to one area for
long periods of time. This may cause the trim
colors to over shrink and pull away leaving unsightly gaps on the color lines. The trim stripes
are especially vulnerable to over heating and
over shrinking.
2. Using your covering iron with a soft sock, gently
apply pressure and rub in the covering. If any
bubbles occur, your iron may be to hot. Reduce
heat and work slowly.
!IMPORTANT!
Go over any and all seams and color overlaps
with your iron to assure good adhesion of the
covering to the wood. This is especially important at the leading edges of the wings and
stabs.
5. You model is covered with Ultracote™ covering. In case of repairs, the colors are:
Midnight Blue
Dark Yellow
True Red
White
#885
#889
#866
#870
Tightening and re-shrinking the covering is now
complete. However, this is a never ending
process and should be checked after each
flying session.
8
CHECKING SEAMS AND COLOR OVERLAPS FOR GOOD SEAL
SEALING HINGE GAPS
1. Go over all seams and color overlaps with your
sealing iron.
3.
Sealing hinge gaps. This is an optional step
but is recommended.
Cut strips of the supplied clear covering to fit
the hinge gaps. Use covering iron to seal the
clear covering snugly into the bottom of the
hinge lines as shown for air tight hinge seals.
Note: Even if your models covering has no wrinkles out of the box it is still very important to
go over all seams and overlaps to make certain
they are sealed securely. This is especially
important at the leading edges of the wings and
stabs. We recommend checking the covering
after each flying session.
Note: The clear covering does have a transparent
protective backing. This must be removed
prior to applying heat and to the surface.
2. Use covering iron to ensure all edges, seams,
and color overlaps are securely sealed.
IMPORTANT:
It is the responsibility of the purchaser /
operator to check the covering seams and
overlaps for security and a good seal.
Aeroworks is not responsible for failure of
covering seams or overlaps during flight.
Note: If covering continues to lift apply a small
amount of thin CA underneath the covering.
Then using a clean rag apply pressure to secure.
One of the most important tools in your
flight box is a roll of clear tape. This can be
used at the field for fast and easy repairs of
the covering. Then once you have finished
flying the covering can be permanently
repaired.
9
Applying clear covering to the leading edge of wings and stabs.
1.
In order to complete this step you will need:
3. Seal the top and bottom of the leading edge
carefully to insure the covering is securely
attached to the wood underneath.
Clear covering, Covering Iron, Scissors,
Rubbing Alcohol, and Paper towel.
2. Clean the leading edge of each wing thoroughly
4. Lay out one of the pieces of covering next to the
leading edge of the wing in order to find the
correct length for it to be cut to.
with rubbing alcohol in order to insure a clean
surface for the covering to stick to.
Note: Wing pictured in the following steps may
be a different color and model. However,
the procedure for applying the clear
covering to your model will be the same.
10
5. Cut the covering even with the wing tip being
careful not to cut it to short.
7. Remove the clear backing from the covering.
Note: Do not skip this step. There is a backing to
the covering. Take time to remove this
backing to get the correct adhesion to the
already applied covering.
6.
Save the excess covering from both wings in
order to seal the leading edge of the horizontal
stabs later.
8. Begin by tacking the covering in place at the
wing root. Pay close attention to insure that the
covering is centered top and bottom on the leading edge of the wing.
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9. Using the same method as step 8 tack the covering to the tip of the wing once again keeping it
centered on the leading edge.
10.
11. Clear covering is now fully applied.
Note: Clear covering is centered on trim
colors. Using the same method complete
the remaining wing and stabs
Once the covering has been tacked in place
work from the center out to secure the covering to the leading edge of the wing.
IMPORTANT
It is the users responsibility to check the
covering seams and overlaps for security
and a good seal. Aeroworks is not responsible for failure of covering seams or
overlaps during flight.
This is a never ending process that
must be done after each flying
secession. Due to varying temperatures and humidity changes from
day to day the covering will
continue to loosen and must be
maintained.
12
WING ASSEMBLY
Aileron Servo Installation
1. The ailerons have been pre-hinged and glued to
the wing panels and are ready for flight. No
other steps are necessary for hinging. Clear
Covering is supplied for sealing the hinge gaps if
desired. However, due to the precisely aligned
and minimal hinge gap this step is optional.
3.
Attach the 18” extension to the outboard servo
lead and secure with safety wire, string, tape,
or other method. Ensure the connectors will
not come apart from vibration or light tension.
4.
Fasten the pull string from the outboard servo
hole to the male connector of the servo extension. Secure with tape so that the string pulls
from the front end of the connector to assist
Gather one wing panel, two aileron servos, one
Y harness, and one 18” servo extension as
shown below for servo installation.
2. Layout the servos, extensions and Y harness on
the wing to test fit the installation and ensure
servo leads are the correct length.
Minimum recommended servo:
180 in. oz. / Metal geared / Digital
in drawing the servo wire through the
wing without hanging up inside the wing.
13
5.
Draw the 18” servo extension through the
wing and pull through the wing root rib.
7.
Fasten the pull string from the inboard servo
hole to the male connector of the Y harness.
Secure with tape so that the string pulls from
the front end of the connector to assist in
drawing the servo wire through the wing
without hanging up inside the wing.
6.
Attach one female end of the Y harness to the
inboard servo lead. Secure the servo connectors with safety wire, string, tape, or other
method. Ensure the connectors will not come
apart from vibration or light tension.
8.
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Pull the 18” extension from the outboard servo
and the Y harness from the inboard servo out
of the root rib as shown.
9.
Plug the remaining female end of the Y harness into the male end of the 18” extension
and secure as before. Secure the servo connectors with safety wire, string, tape, or other
method. Ensure the connectors will not come
apart from vibration or light tension.
11.
Install servo in servo well with the output arm
toward the leading edge of the wing and mark
locations of servo mounting holes. Use a 1/16
bit to drill servo mounting holes.
10.
Tuck the excess servo wires inside the wing
root as shown.
12.
Install servo with servo mounting screws.
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2.
13. Repeat mounting steps for other servo so that
both aileron servos are mounted in bottom of
wing as shown.
Note: Servo arm should face towards the wing
leading edge and to the wing tip.
Assemble two pushrod and control horn
assemblies as shown. The ball link goes
between the left and right sides of the control
horn sides and is secured with a nylon lock nut.
IMPORTANT: The ball link for the Root End
control horn goes in the bottom hole of the
horn. The ball link for the Tip End horn goes in
the middle hole of the horn. This gives the
correct offset to eliminate binding and twisting
of the aileron.
3.
Aileron Control Linkage Installation
1. Gather the aileron control linkage parts as shown
below. There are 2 pushrods, 4 4-40 ball link
assemblies, 2 left and 2 right side control horns,
and 12 wood screws for each wing panel.
Note: There is also a Carbon tube for reinforcing
the pushrod (not pictured). This will be
installed during a later step.
16
Align the control horns over the factory drilled
holes.
4. Use thick CA on each screw prior to
installing to lock screws in place
6. Attach 4-40 ball link to the under side of the
servo arm using 4-40 bolt, brass spacer and lock
nut.
Note: CA glues have a fast drying time.
Remember to work quickly.
5.
Note: 1” servo arm is recommended for best
results. A 1 1/4” servo arm is required to obtain
full deflection of the aileron 55º bevel.
7.
Align the left and right sides of the control
horns to the mounting holes and secure using
six wood screws as shown.
17
Correct installation of ball link and brass
spacer to servo arm shown below.
8.
Plug the servos into the receiver and turn on.
Ensure servos are centered and the servo arms
are parallel to the aileron hinge line. Adjust
the length of the pushrods so that the aileron is
at the neutral position when the servo arms are
parallel to the aileron hinge line.
Carbon reinforcement tube installation
1.
2.
9. Ensure both servos do not fight each other at
center or either end point at full deflection.
Note: Take advantage of servo programmers and
match boxes available today to achieve best
results. This will help keep servos from binding and possible aileron flutter.
10.
Gather the supplied carbon tube for
reinforcing the aileron pushrods. Wrap
masking tape around carbon tube for marking
the cut location.
Mark cut location onto carbon tube. Carbon
tube should fit between 4-40 ball link lock
nuts.
Note: Model shown may be different form yours.
However, the carbon reinforcement tube
installation will remain the same for your
model.
Repeat all the above steps for the other wing.
18
3.
Using a Dremel cut off wheel cut the carbon
tube to correct length.
4.
Remove the 4-40 ball link from the control
horn.
5.
6.
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Remove the 4-40 ball link from the pushrod.
Slide carbon reinforcing tube over the 4-40
pushrod and reassemble ball link to pushrod
end.
7.
Final pushrod assembly shown below.
8.
Repeat installation steps for all aileron
pushrods.
20
STAB AND ELEVATOR ASSEMBLY
3. Assemble two pushrod and control horn assemblies as shown. The ball link goes between the
left and right sides of the control horn sides and
is secured with a nylon lock nut.
Elevator Servo Installation
1. The elevators have been pre-hinged and glued to
the stabs and are ready for flight. No other steps
are necessary for hinging. Clear covering has
been provided for sealing of the hinge gaps if
desired.
Gather the stabs and elevators, two elevator
servos, and two 36” servo extensions as shown
below.
Note: You may mount the ball link into any of the
three control horn holes. However, it is very
important that you use the same hole for
each side. We recommend you use the middle
or bottom hole.
4.
2. Gather the elevator control linkage parts as
shown below. There are 2 pushrods, 4 ball link
assemblies, 2 brass spacers, 2 left and 2 right
side control horns, and 12 wood screws.
Note: There is also a Carbon tube for reinforcing
the pushrod (not pictured). This will be in
stalled during a later step.
21
Correct installation of ball link and brass
spacer to servo arm shown below.
5.
Install servo in servo well with the output arm
toward the leading edge of the stab and mark
locations of servo mounting holes. Use a 1/16
bit to drill servo mounting holes.
7.
Align the control horns over the factory drilled
holes.
6.
Install servo with servo mounting screws.
8.
Use thick CA on each screw prior to
installing to lock screws in place
Note: CA glues have a fast drying time.
Remember to work quickly.
22
9.
10.
Align the left and right sides of the control
horns to the mounting holes and mount using
six wood screws as shown.
Plug the servo wire into the female end of the
36” extension and secure the servo connectors
with safety wire, string, tape, or other method.
Ensure the connectors will not come apart
from vibration or light tension.
11.
Plug the servo into the receiver and turn on.
Ensure the servo is centered and the servo arm
is parallel to the elevator hinge line. Adjust the
length of the pushrod so that the elevator is in
the neutral position when the servo arm is
parallel to the elevator hinge line. A 1 1/2”
servo arm is recommended to achieve full
deflection of the elevator bevel. Ensure the
servo does not bind at center or either end
point at full deflection.
12.
Repeat all the above steps for the other stab.
Carbon reinforcement tube installation
1.
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Gather the supplied carbon tube for
reinforcing the elevator pushrods. Wrap
masking tape around carbon tube for marking
the cut location.
2.
Mark cut location onto carbon tube. Carbon
tube should fit between 4-40 ball link lock
nuts.
4.
Remove the 4-40 ball link from the control
horn.
Note: Model shown may be different form yours.
However, the carbon reinforcement tube
installation will remain the same for your
model.
3.
Using a Dremel cut off wheel cut the carbon
tube to correct length.
5.
24
Remove the 4-40 ball link from the pushrod.
6.
Slide carbon reinforcing tube over the 4-40
pushrod and reassemble ball link to pushrod
end.
7.
Final pushrod assembly shown below.
8.
Repeat installation steps for other elevator
pushrod.
25
RUDDER AND TAILWHEEL ASSEMBLY
Rudder Installation
1.
Gather the rudder, hinges, epoxy, and
materials as shown. Use 15-30 minute epoxy
to ensure adequate working and cleanup time.
2.
Prep all hinges for installation by applying
Vaseline petroleum jelly or light oil to the
hinge joint. This ensures no epoxy gets into
the hinge during assembly.
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3.
Mix epoxy in mixing cup and use a tapered
stick to apply the epoxy inside the pre-drilled
holes in the trailing edge of the fin. Apply
epoxy to one side of each hinge and insert the
hinge completely into the hole.
4.
Ensure the hinge axis is vertical and parallel to
the trailing edge of the fin before epoxy cures.
Wipe away excess epoxy with alcohol wetted
wipes.
5. Epoxy the hinges into the fin first and allow epoxy to fully cure.
7.
Carefully slide the rudder onto each hinge and
against the trailing edge of the fin. Wipe away
excess epoxy with alcohol wetted wipes.
Note: Ensure you have free and full travel of each
hinge.
6.
Mix epoxy in mixing cup and use a tapered
stick to apply the epoxy inside the pre-drilled
holes in the leading edge of the rudder. Apply
epoxy on to each hinge.
8. Ensure there is no gap between fin and rudder.
Allow epoxy to fully cure.
Note: Ensure you have full rudder deflection
before epoxy fully cures.
27
Rudder Control Horn Installation
1.
3.
Align the control horns over the factory drilled
holes.
Gather the rudder control linkage parts shown
below. 2 Rudder cables, 2 4-40 ball link assemblies, 2 4-40 threaded metal RC links, 4
threaded couplers, 4 brass swaging tubes, 2
left and 2 right side control horns, and 12
wood screws.
2. Gather the rudder control horn parts as shown
below. 2 4-40 ball link assemblies and 2 left
and 2 right side control horns. Assemble the ball
links between the control horns as shown. Secure with nylon lock nut.
4. Use thick CA on each screw prior to installing to
lock screws in place
Note: CA glues have a fast drying time.
Remember to work quickly.
Note: mount ball link to bottom control horn hole
to obtain full rudder deflection
28
5.
Align the left and right sides of the control
horns to the mounting holes and mount using
six wood screws as shown.
Rudder Servos Installation
1. Gather the two rudder servos (min 180 in./oz.)
and a Y harness as shown below.
Note: If using a higher Torque (min 300 in./oz.)
Digital, Metal geared servo, only one servo is
required.
29
2.
Attach the Y harness to aft rudder servo leads
and secure with safety wire, string, tape, or
other method. Ensure the connectors will not
come apart from vibration or light tension.
3.
Install the aft rudder servo with the output
shaft forward. Pull the servo lead and Y harness up through the forward servo cutout. Attach the Y harness to the forward servo rudder
servo leads and secure with safety wire, string,
tape, or other method. Ensure the connectors
will not come apart from vibration or light tension. Install the forward rudder servo with the
output shaft forward.
4.
5.
Mark and use a 1/16 bit to drill the rudder
servo mounting holes.
Rudder Pull-Pull Cable Installation
Install rudder servos with servo screws.
30
1.
Gather the rudder control linkage parts shown
below. 2 Rudder cables, 2 threaded metal RC
links, 4 threaded couplers, and 4 brass swaging tubes.
2.
Feed the rudder cable through the pre installed
cable exit tube in the tail of the fuse toward the
front. Repeat on other side.
3.
Pull the rudder cables from the fuse tail to the
rudder servo tray.
5.
Loop the cable back through the brass swage
tube as shown.
4.
Insert rudder cable through the brass swage
tube, then through the threaded coupler hole,
and back through the brass swage tube as
shown.
6.
Tighten the second loop through the brass
swage tube and crimp the brass tube with a
crimping tool or pliers. Cut off excess cable
as shown. A drop of thin CA may be applied
to the swage tube to help secure the cable.
7.
Repeat above steps for the other side rudder
cable.
31
8. Attach a metal threaded RC link to each
threaded coupler. Attach the RC links to the
rudder servo arm and then attach the servo arm
to the aft rudder servo as shown.
10. Use 4-40 rod and 4-40 easy links to connect two
servos together.
Note:
Rudder coupler hardware is not supplied.
Shown below are only recommendations.
Coupling rudder servos is left to the builders
discretion.
11.
If 4-40 easy links are used be sure to use metal
clips on the bottom of the easy links.
Note: You will want to use a 3” to 3 1/2” servo arm
9.
Plug the rudder servo Y harness into the rudder channel of the receiver and power up.
Turn on transmitter to center rudder servos.
32
12.
Attach the rudder servo coupler assembly to
the rudder servos as shown. Do not tighten the
easy link set screws until the rudder servos are
powered up and centered.
13.
Optional ball link rudder servo coupler assembly is shown below. Use 4-40 ball links and
4-40 all thread with copper, brass, or carbon
tubes over the all thread rod to give adequate
strength.
Note: Rudder coupler hardware is not supplied
33
14.
Tape the rudder balance tab to the top leading
edge of the vertical fin in the neutral position
as shown. This ensures the rudder is straight
when the cables are attached.
15.
Screw threaded coupler halfway into ball link
16.
Slide brass swage onto rudder cable.
18.
Loop the cable back through the brass swage
tube as shown.
17.
Thread the rudder cable through the threaded
coupler, and back through the brass swage
tube on both sides. With the rudder servos
powered up and centered, pull light tension on
the cable through the coupler on both sides as
shown.
19.
Pull the loop through the coupler until it is
approximately 1/2” long.. Crimp the brass
tube with a crimping tool or pliers.
34
20.
Hint: If additional crimping is needed a small
C-Clamp may be used for additional crimping
pressure.
21.
A drop of thin CA may be applied to the
swage tube to help secure the cable
22.
Adjust rudder pull-pull cables to desired tension by screwing in or out on the threaded couplers and or ball links. Make all adjustments
with the rudder servos still powered up and
centered, and the rudder still taped in the neutral position. Ensure the servos do not fight
each other at center or at either end point.
Tail Wheel Installation
1. Gather the tail wheel parts shown below. Tail
wheel strut and 2 leaf springs, 3 tail wheel
mounting screws, steering tiller, 2 tiller mounting screws, and 2 steering springs.
35
2.
Place tail wheel steering tiller over the predrilled holes in the bottom of the rudder. Apply a drop of thick CA to the mounting screws
before inserting into the tiller mounting holes.
4.
Stack the tail wheel leaf springs on the tail
wheel strut. Position the tail wheel and leaf
springs on the bottom of the fuse over the pre
drilled pilot holes.
3.
Mount the tail wheel steering tiller using two
wood screws.
5.
Place a drop of thick CA on tail wheel strut
mounting screws before inserting in the predrilled mounting holes on the bottom rear of
the fuse.
36
6.
Mount the tail wheel strut and leaf springs using three wood screws.
8.
Attach the steering springs on both sides of the
tail wheel to the rudder tiller and tail wheel
tiller. Center the springs between both tillers.
Use pliers to twist spring ends closed around
the tillers after desired tension and direction
adjustments are complete.
7.
Tail wheel leaf spring strut mounted to bottom
of fuse.
9.
Tail wheel final assembly is complete.
37
MAIN LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY
Main Landing Gear Installation
1.
Gather the landing gear parts as shown below.
Landing gear strut, 4 mounting bolts, washers,
and lock washers, 2 wheels, 2 axle assemblies,
2 wheel pants and 4 wheel pant mounting bolts
with washers.
2.
Remove the landing gear cover by removing
the two screws on the lower part of the front
former.
38
3.
Note that the trailing edge of the landing gear
strut is tapered. The tapered edge goes toward
the rear of the fuse.
4.
Assemble the landing gear bolts with lock
washer and flat washer. Use a drop of blue
Loctite on landing gear bolts before attaching
the landing gear.
5.
6.
Bolt landing gear strut to fuse with 4 bolts and
washers. Ensure tapered edge of the gear strut
is facing toward the rear.
Wheel And Wheel Pant Installation
1
Reinstall the landing gear cover.
Gather the 2 wheels, 2 axle assemblies, and 4
wheel collars as shown.
2. Use a drop of blue Loctite on the wheel axle before assembly.
39
3. Use two wrenches to screw the lock nut on the
wheel axle.
5.
Install and tighten the wheel pant mounting
bolts to hold the wheel pant in place. DO
NOT use Loctite at this time.
6.
Now tighten the axle nut against the landing
gear strut with a small wrench while using the
wheel pant slot to hold the flat sides of the
axle bolt in alignment. Tighten the lock nut
enough so that the axle bolt will not rotate during final tightening.
Note: Do not tighten axle securely yet.
4.
Align the flat sides of the axle bolt vertical and
snug the lock nut against the landing gear
strut. Do not tighten securely yet. Then align
the wheel pant slot over the axle bolt as shown
below.
40
7.
Remove the wheel pant and use two wrenches
to permanently tighten the axle to the gear
strut.
9.
Install the wheel and outer wheel collar. Use
blue Loctite on the wheel collar set screw before final tightening.
8.
Install the inner wheel collar on the axle. Use
a drop of blue Loctite on the wheel collar set
screw and tighten the wheel collar in place.
10.
Slide the lock washer then the flat washer on
the wheel pant mounting bolts. Use blue
Loctite on the bolts before final tightening.
41
11.
Install wheel pants with two mounting bolts.
12.
Repeat above steps for other wheel and wheel
pant.
42
ENGINE, MUFFLER OR CANISTER AND
THROTTLE SERVO INSTALLATION
Engine Installation
1.
3.
Line up the template with the pre-marked
firewall thrust lines. Mark the location of the
engine mounting holes.
4.
Center punch the engine mounting hole locations.
The 100cc YAK-54 will accept a wide range
of engine types. Illustrations for a DA-100
installation are provided below.
2. Locate the laser cut engine mounting template
for either the DA-100 or 3W-100 / 106.
Note: If other engines are used the templates may
be modified to fit you engine selection. Center
your engine over the laser marked thrust lines
on the template. Mark and drill the engine
mounting hole locations for your engine.
Follow the next steps for mounting your
engine
43
5.
Use a 1/4 drill bit to drill the engine mounting
holes.
7. The required distance from the firewall to the
front of the prop mount on the engine is
7 3/4” as shown below.
Note: The prop hub will stand out from the front of
the cowling approximately 1/2”. This is
Normal for all Yak’s and is required to
achieve proper C.G. location and engine
performance.
6.
Aluminum spacers are included to set the
proper stand off distance for the engine used.
8.
44
Insert the 4 bolts through the engine mount,
spacers and washers. Use 4 flat fender washers between the spacers and firewall to distribute bolt pressure. Insert the bolts through the
firewall and add washers and lock nuts.
Tighten firmly. Use Loctite to secure.
Canister Muffler Installation
1.
3.
Remove the landing gear cover as shown below.
4.
Dry fit the front tunnel balsa floor baffle and
trim as necessary. Apply medium CA glue to
baffle and install.
Gather the header and canister parts as shown:
1 - 50mm drop flex header (left)
1 - 50mm drop flex header (right)
2 - MTW-75K canisters (front exit)
2 - Teflon couplers
4 - clamps
Note: If using standard mufflers, skip the
following steps and go to throttle servo
installation located on page 50 step #1
2. If canister mufflers are to be used, gather the
pre cut balsa canister tunnel baffles and
included silicone tubing as shown below.
45
5.
Front tunnel floor baffle installed.
7.
Slide baffle under wing tube and under the
tank floor as shown below.
6.
Dry fit the rear tunnel balsa floor baffle for
proper fit. Apply medium CA glue to baffle
and install.
8.
Top view of the installed front and rear tunnel
floor baffles.
46
9.
Dry fit the lower rear former tunnel baffle for
proper fit. Apply medium CA glue to edges of
the baffle.
11.
Lower rear former tunnel baffle installed.
10.
Install the lower rear former tunnel baffle as
shown below with CA glue.
12.
Canister tunnel sealed with the balsa baffles
viewed from the front.
47
13. Gather silicon tube for vibration isolation
mounts. Cut eight 7/8” pieces, and insert into
the plywood cutouts in the pre-installed canister
mounting former.
15.
Using a hobby knife, follow the pre marked
and tab cut lines and remove the floor in the
landing gear cover as shown.
16.
Using a hobby knife, follow the pre marked
and tab cut lines and remove the front and rear
cutouts from the landing gear cover as shown.
Note: The silicon tubing may have already been
pre-cut for you, if so skip this step.
14.
Slide the silicone tubing vibration isolators
into the plywood cutouts in the pre-installed
canister mount.
48
17.
Floor, front and rear cutouts removed from the
landing gear hatch cover.
19.
Use a hobby knife to remove the covering
from the canister tunnel pre cut air exit holes
as shown.
18.
Reinstall the landing gear cover. Use a sealing
iron to ensure the covering is bonded to the
bottom of the fuse frame around the pre cut air
exit holes.
20.
Remove the covering from the two front holes
of the landing gear cover as shown.
49
21.
Covering removed from all of the air exit
holes.
23.
22. Assemble the headers and canisters with the silicone couplers and clamps as shown. Teflon
plumbing tape may be used to help seal the
flexible part of the header pipe if desired.
Install the canisters into the canister mounting
bracket and into the silicone vibration isolators. Temporarily attach the header pipes to
the engine as shown to check for proper alignment and fit.
Throttle Servo Installation
Now is a good time to think about
installing your throttle servo
1.
50
Install the throttle pushrod onto the throttle
servo using a ball link threaded onto the pushrod wire. With the servo arm 90º to the servo
body, align the pushrod with the engine throttle arm. Then locate the throttle servo on the
bottom of the engine box between the header
pipes. Trace around the edge of the servo
body as shown.
2. Throttle servo cutout tracing prior to cutting out
servo mounting hole.
4. Use a rotary cutting tool to cut out the throttle
servo mounting hole.
Note: If using standard style mufflers servo
location will be similar.
Note: Cover engine with a towel or cloth to protect
from any debris getting into the carburetor or
cylinders.
3.
5.
Remove the headers and canisters as shown.
51
Install the throttle servo with pushrod attached
into the throttle servo mounting hole as shown.
With the servo arm centered and the throttle
arm at half throttle, measure and mark the end
of the throttle pushrod wire that will be inserted into the threaded coupler.
6.
Cut the throttle pushrod to the proper length.
7. Gather the soldering tools as shown below.
Note: For best results we recommend a high
quality Silver Solder like “Sta-Brite” silver
solder.
52
8.
Solder the threaded coupler to the throttle
pushrod wire.
9.
Install the ball links to the throttle pushrod as
shown below.
10.
Mark and use a 1/16” drill bit for the servo
mounting screws.
12.
Attach the throttle pushrod with the 4/40 ball
links and secure. Power up the receiver and
throttle servo and adjust pushrod for proper
operation. Ensure the servo or rod does not
bind or jam at closed or full open positions.
11.
Mount the throttle servo using servo mounting
screws.
13. Reinstall the canisters and header pipes as
shown.
Note:
If using
standard style
mufflers install
them at this
time.
53
14. Install the header pipes to the engine using blue
Loctite as shown.
16.
Reinstall the landing gear cover as shown.
17.
Typical standard style muffler installation
shown below.
Note: Use a gasket to ensure good seal
15.
Firmly tighten the header mounting screws to
the engine.
54
3.
Rear Carburetor and Alternative
location for Throttle and Chock
Servo Installation
1.
If a rear carburetor engine is used or you prefer to have the throttle and choke servos
installed inside the fuse. Locate the servo
mounting brackets, servos and pushrods as
shown below.
2.
Typical rear carburetor throttle servo and
pushrod installation.
Typical rear carburetor throttle and choke
servo pushrod installation.
Alternative Choke Pushrod
Installation
1.
55
Attach the choke pushrod and ball link to the
engine choke arm as shown. This will exit the
bottom of the cowl
for easy access.
IGNITION MODULE INSTALLATION
Ignition module Installation
1.
Position the ignition module inside the engine
box to allow both of the spark plug leads to
exit and properly connect to the engine without excess tension or chafing. Mark the location for the nylon tie holes.
2.
Use a 1/4” drill bit to drill the nylon tie mounting holes as shown.
56
3.
Roll the supplied foam rubber to make a
4 layer pad as shown. Make the pad slightly
larger than the ignition module as shown.
4.
Install the ignition module and the foam pad
with a nylon tie as shown.
5.
Use a 1/4” drill bit to drill the ignition timing
lead hole in the firewall as shown.
6.
Enlarge the holes as necessary to pass the ignition timing plug through the firewall.
7.
57
Secure the ignition timing connectors with
safety wire, string, tape, or other method. Ensure the connectors will not come apart from
vibration or light tension.
FUEL TANK INSTALLATION
3.
Fuel Tank Assembly
1.
Gather the fuel tank parts as shown below.
Fuel tank parts, fuel tubing, and foam rubber.
2.
Assemble the fuel tank as shown below.
Secure the fuel tubing with nylon ties to the
pick-up tube and clunk.
Insert the rubber stopper into the tank with the
vent tube at the top of the tank. Secure the
stopper with set screw.
Take care not to strip threads by over tighten
set screw
Fuel Tank Installation
1. Gather the fuel tank parts as shown below. Fuel
tank, fuel tubing, foam rubber, fuel “T”, fuel
filler dot, and nylon ties.
Note: It is important to solder a barb to the fuel line
pick up. This will keep the weight of the fuel
clunk from pulling the fuel line off the brass
tube.
(Barbs Not Supplied)
Note: The fuel “T” and fuel dot are not supplied,
but are available through Aeroworks.
58
2. Place the fuel tank on the tank floor and mark
the position of the nylon ties for mounting the
tank.
4.
Install the foam rubber and nylon ties for
mounting the fuel tank.
5.
Cinch the nylon ties securely to hold the tank
against the foam on the fuel tank floor.
Note: If you are not using canister mufflers and
have not sheeted the underside of the tank
floors. It is not necessary to mark and drill the
mounting holes for the nylon ties.
(Skip to step 4)
3.
Use a 1/4” drill bit to drill the tank nylon tie
mounting holes.
59
6.
Cut off excess nylon tie material after tank is
firmly installed.
8.
Install the fuel tubing as shown securing with
small nylon ties. Connect the fuel line to the
engine carburetor intake nipple. You will need
an after market fuel “T” and fuel filling dot.
Note: We recommend using a fuel filter in the line
going to the engine carburetor.
7.
Tank mounting complete.
9. Install the fuel filling dot as desired on the side
of the fuse. Do not allow the fuel dot to
interfere with the leading edge of the wing.
Note:
60
The higher you mount the fuel fill dot the
less fuel will siphon out when fueling.
10.
Connect the fuel line from the “T” to the fuel
dot stopper as shown. Allow enough slack in
the line to pull out and connect to the fueling
pump.
12.
Use a 5/16” drill bit to drill the vent line exit
hole in the balsa tunnel baffle as shown. Pass
the vent line through the hole to exit out the
bottom of the fuse as shown.
11.
Install the fuel vent line to the tank vent. We
recommend looping the vent line to the rear of
the fuel tank as shown to prevent fuel spilling
when the model’s tail is lifted or flying a
down line. We have found this will give you
longer flying times with the same size fuel
tank.
13.
Mark the location of the fuel vent exit hole on
the landing gear cover as shown.
61
14.
Use a 5/16” drill bit to drill the fuel vent exit
hole in the landing gear cover.
16
Remove the landing gear cover and pass the
fuel vent tubing through the rubber grommet
as shown.
15.
Install a rubber grommet in the fuel vent exit
hole as shown.
17.
Cut off excess fuel vent line as shown.
62
18.
Fuel vent line installed on bottom of fuse.
63
COWL INSTALLATION
Cowl Preparation for
Canister mufflers
3. Use a felt tip pen to trace the cowl cut outs onto
the bottom of the cowl as shown.
1. Gather the cowl and provided air exit hole
templates as shown.
Note: Take care and test painted areas prior to
using any type of paint remover, rubbing
alcohols or cleaners to remove any pen lines.
Note: The following steps are if you are using
canister style mufflers. If using standard
mufflers skip to page 66 step number 1
2.
Tape the cowl templates to the bottom of the
cowl as shown.
4.
64
Remove the templates and use a rotary cutting
tool, files, and sandpaper to cut out and
smooth the edges of the cooling openings in
the bottom of the cowl as shown.
5. Cowl cooling air exit holes cut out and edges
sanded smooth.
7.
Cowl cooling air exit holes and canister tunnel
air exit holes in bottom of the fuse.
8.
Typical spinner and prop installation
Note: This is only if you are using Canister style
mufflers. If you are using Standard style
mufflers you will need to cut exhaust stack
holes and may need more air flow exiting the
bottom of the cowling for proper cooling.
6.
If necessary using a Dremel drum sander, cut
cowl ring to clear engine ignition pickup. Take
care not to cut away to much and weaken the
cowl ring.
65
Cowl preparation for
Standard style mufflers
1.
Gather the materials as shown below. File
folder, hobby knife, ruler, tape, marker and
pencil.
2.
Mark center line of engine box floor.
66
3.
Using a square transfer center line from box
floor to front of fuse former.
4.
Mark center line on file folder. This will be
used as a template for cutting cowl to fit
exhaust stacks of the mufflers.
5.
Place masking tape on back side of file folder.
7.
Template should fit over cowl ring support of
front former.
6.
Aligning center marks tape template to
bottom of fuselage.
8.
Lift the template so that it contacts the bottom
of the muffler exhaust stacks.
67
11.
9. Trace the location of the exhaust stack exit
holes.
Cut out the exhaust stack holes in template.
Note: Removing the tape from the sides of the
template will allow the template to lay flat,
This will make marking the exhaust stack
locations easier.
10.
Extend holes towards fuse former by drawing a
2 1/2” long hole. This will allow the cowling
to slip over the stacks. Allow a 1/4” clearance
around the outside edge of the exhaust stack
tubes.
12. Trial fit the template until the proper size holes
are achieved. Do not forget to account for the
curve at the bottom of the cowl.
68
13.
Center mark cowling.
15.
Trace the sides of the air scoop on bottom of
cowl.
14.
Tape template to cowl. Align the center mark
of template with the center mark on cowl. Fit
flush with rear of cowl.
16.
Cut slots in template on both sides of the air
scoop of cowl.
Note: Take care not to cut or scratch cowl.
69
Template taped to bottom of cowl with air
scoop relief cut out. This will allow template
to fit flush with cowl.
19.
Use a rotary cutting tool and sanding drum to
cut the exhaust stack exit holes as needed.
18. Mark cut locations for exhaust stack exit holes.
20.
If necessary using a Dremel drum sander, cut
cowl ring to clear engine ignition pickup. Take
care not to cut away to much and weaken the
cowl ring.
17.
Note: Take care and test painted areas prior to
using any type of paint remover, rubbing
alcohols or cleaners to remove any pen lines
70
21.
23.
Gather the cowl and provided air exit hole
templates as shown.
Use a felt tip pen to trace the cowl cut outs on
to the bottom of the cowl as shown.
Note: Remember not to cut away the front air exit
holes.
Note: Take care and test painted areas prior to
using any type of paint remover, rubbing
alcohols or cleaners to remove any pen lines
22.
Tape the cowl templates to the bottom of the
cowl as shown.
24.
Note: For standard style mufflers you will only
remove the three rear air exit holes.
71
Cowl cooling air exit holes cut lines marked
ready to cut.
25.
Use a rotary cutting tool, files, and sandpaper
to cut out and smooth the edges of the cooling
openings in the bottom of the cowl as shown.
26.
Typical cut out for standard style mufflers.
27.
Note: We have found this to be adequate cooling
for the DA100. Depending on your engine’s
operating temperature, you may need to allow
for more exit air cooling for your engine to run
at its recommended operating temperature.
Always check the operating temperature of
your engine to prevent any damage from
accruing.
72
Typical spinner and prop installation
RADIO INSTALLATION
1.
2.
Gather the switches and mounting hardware to
be used. We used two switches, one for receiver battery, and one for ignition battery.
The installation steps are similar for most
switches.
3. Mark location for switches using the switch
mounting plate for a template.
Mount the ignition switch, battery, and regulator if used first. Switch location is at the discretion of the builder. We chose to place the
switches toward the front of the fuse on each
side.
4.
Note: Fit the wing to the fuselage and check
switch location will not interfere with the
mounting of the wing.
73
Use a modeling knife to cut out the switch
holes.
5.
Slide switch wires inside fuse through the
switch cutout.
7. Mark location for ignition battery nylon tie
mounting hole on side of the engine box
Note: The mounting location of the ignition
battery is left to the builder. We mount the
battery to the engine box side for ease of
installation and it can be used for additional
nose weight if needed.
6.
Mount switches in accordance with the switch
manufacturers instructions and hardware.
8.
74
Roll the supplied foam rubber to make a 4
layer pad as shown. Make the pad slightly
larger than the ignition battery as shown.
9.
Mount the engine ignition battery using nylon
ties and the foam rubber as shown
10.
Secure the battery connectors with safety wire,
string, tape, or other method. Ensure the connectors will not come apart from vibration or
light tension.
11.
75
Mount the ignition module and regulator if
used using nylon ties and mounting screws as
shown below.
12.
Gather the radio mounting tray and epoxy
materials as shown.
14
Install the radio mounting tray as shown.
15.
Gather the receiver, battery, regulator, switch
mounting Velcro and foam rubber as shown
below
Note: The radio floor was left out of the model for
customers wanting to install canister or full
length pipe mufflers.
This also allows all customers access to this
area if needed.
13.
Apply epoxy to outside edges of mounting tray
as shown.
76
16.
Mount the receiver battery and regulator as
desired using the radio tray cutouts, nylon ties,
Velcro and screws.
18.
17. Push receiver antenna all the way into the pre
installed receiver antenna guide tube.
Note:
Tape the receiver antenna wire to the radio
mounting tray and to the end of the antenna
guide tube as shown. This will prevent the
antenna wire from vibrating back out.
19. Attach all servos, battery, regulator, and switch
leads to the proper connectors.
Apply baby powder or corn starch to
antenna wire to assist getting it into the guide
tube.
A typical radio installation is shown below.
77
PRE-FLIGHT PREPARATION
1. Gather the 4 8-32 wing mounting bolts, 4 #8
large rubber backed washers and 4 hair pins.
3.
Gather the 4 4-40 stab mounting bolts and
4 #6 small rubber backed washers.
4.
Slide the stab tubes in the fuse stab tube
sleeves (short tube front, long tube rear).
Slide the stabs on the stab tube and plug in the
elevator servo connectors. Slide the rubber
backed washers on the stab mounting bolts and
insert bolts through the stab mounting tabs and
into the fuse blind nuts. Tighten snugly but do
not over tighten and crack the stab mounting
tabs or the fuse sides.
Note: Always check wing attachment bolts are
securely tightened. We recommend using
hair pins through the aluminum anti-rotation
dowels for a second method of security.
We recommend using hair pins through
the anti-rotation dowels for a second
method of wing attachment.
2.
Slide the wing tube in the fuse wing tube
sleeve. Slide the wings on the wing tube and
plug in the aileron servo connectors. Slide the
rubber backed washers on the wing mounting
bolts and insert bolts through the fuse side and
into the wing root blind nuts. Tighten snugly
but do not over tighten and crack the fuse or
wing root wood.
If you do not remove your stabs for transportation
purposes. We recommend you use (blue) Loctite to
help keep bolts from vibrating loose.
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5. Gather the 6 4-40 cowl mounting bolts and 6 #6
small rubber backed washers.
7. Gather the 4 4-40 hatch mounting bolts and 4 #6
small rubber backed washers.
Note: It is highly recommended you apply thin CA
glue to the front hold down dowels. This is a High
vibration area and can loosen the front dowels.
Always check the front dowels are secure before
each flying session
Us thin CA to
secure front
hatch hold
down dowels
6.
Mount the cowl using the cowl mounting bolts
and rubber backed washers. The rubber
backed washers are to prevent the fiberglass
cowl from cracking and keep bolts from coming loose from normal engine vibration.
8.
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Slide the rubber backed washers on the hatch
mounting bolts and insert bolts through the
hatch mounting holes and into the fuse blind
nuts. Tighten snugly but do not over tighten
and crush the hatch or the fuse sides.
DECAL INSTALLATION
3. Factory placement of decals.
1. Decals supplied with the kit may vary from the
photos below. Decal application steps will be
similar.
Gather supplied decals, transfer tape, ruler, scissors, hobby knife, plastic squeegee or credit
card, Windex or Application fluid like Rapid
Tac. Also, a solution of 1 drop of dish detergent
to a cup of water sprayed on the model will assist in proper positioning.
Note: Clean surface and tighten all covering before
any decals are applied.
2. Factory placement of decals.
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4. Factory placement of decals shown.
6.
5. Cut transfer tape to accommodate decal size.
Remove backing from Clear transfer tape.
7.
Note: Transfer tape will be reused. DO NOT throw
away any transfer tape until decal
placement is complete.
Decals supplied with the kit may vary from the photos
below. Decal application steps will be similar.
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Apply clear transfer tape over top of
decal.
8. Press transfer tape to top of decal.
10.
9. Peel backing from decal.
11.
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Spray model surface with application fluid,
Windex or soapy water solution.
Spray back side of decal with
application fluid, Windex or soapy
water solution.
12. Position decal in proper location. Application
fluid will allow decal to be moved slightly.
13.
Using a plastic squeegee or credit card. Spread
decal smooth and remove all excess application
fluid. Let decal set until dry enough to be able
to remove transfer tape with out removing
decal. Do not leave until completely dry or
transfer tape will be difficult to remove.
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14.
Pull transfer tape from top of decal. Take
care not to pull away or damage decal.
15.
Let decal dry.
CENTER OF GRAVITY - CONTROL THROWS
Center of Gravity
Warning, DO NOT skip this step!
1.
3. Start at recommended CG until you are comfortable with the flight characteristics of the aircraft.
You may find this a bit nose heavy at first but
that is fine to start with. After you are comfortable adjust the CG to suit your flying style in
small steps, especially when shifting the CG toward the tail. Move the battery or add small
stick on weights to the nose or tail as necessary.
The recommended CG is 3.5” back
from the wing leading edge at the
wing tip as shown.
Note: If additional nose weight is necessary we
recommend moving the engine forward slightly
by adding extra spacer or washers to move the
C.G. forward. Try this before adding an additional weight.
4. For aerobatic flying a more aft balance point is
better. For smooth sport flying or precision pattern a more forward CG is better. An aircraft
that is too nose heavy does not fly well and is
difficult to land. A tail heavy aircraft is uncontrollable and will likely crash.
Control Throws
2. Balance the YAK-54 without fuel in the tank
with the batteries installed and READY TO
FLY. The engine, radio, servos, and batteries
you use will determine the final weight and locations of equipment. Try to balance the model by
moving the batteries and receiver before adding
any ballast.
.
1.
The amount of control throw should be
adjusted using mechanical means as much as
possible and then electronically with the radio.
The control throws are shown in degrees and
inches of deflection.
Aileron throw measured in inches at the widest
point of the aileron.
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2.
Elevator throw measured in inches at widest
point of the elevator.
4.
Use the supplied flight control deflection meter to measure the throws in degrees. It is
recommended you level the model as
shown.
3.
Rudder throw measured in inches from the
rudder boost tab.
5.
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Elevator throw measured in degrees. Locate
throw meter at widest point of the elevator.
6.
Aileron throw measured in degrees at widest
point of the aileron.
Control Throw Deflection Table
Low Rate
High Rate
Aileron
2” or 18˚ up
2” or 18˚ down
3” or 30˚ up
3” or 30˚ down
Rudder
2” left
2” right
3” left
3” right
Elevator 1 1/4” or 12˚ up
2 1/4” or 18˚ up
1 1/2” or 14˚ down 2 1/2” or 20˚ down
For 3D flying use the following throws:
3D Rate
Aileron
4” or 35˚ up
4” or 35˚ down
Rudder
4” left
4” right
Full rudder deflection is typically
recommended for all out 3D
Elevator 4” or 35˚ up
4” or 35˚ down
Recommend Expediential:
15% expediential on low rates
30% expediential on high rates
60% expediential on 3D rates
Use the given rates as a starting point. Then
adjust rates from there to suit your own flying
style.
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Preflight Check List
Range check: Do a range check with and without
the engine running in accordance with the radio
manufacturer instructions. If there is insufficient range or a large reduction with the engine
running, do not fly until it is resolved!
Center of Gravity: Check CG is set properly.
Engine: The engine should run smoothly at all
throttle settings with smooth transition from
idle to full throttle without stalling hesitation.
Do not fly an unreliable engine. Read engine
instructions including break in and tuning
completely. Pay close attention to the engine
temperature.
Flight Controls: Ensure all flight controls are
free from binding and are centered. Check
that all hinges are tight and will not pull out.
Control linkages must be rigid and tight and
have no slop. Confirm proper direction of ailerons, rudder, and elevator. Experienced flyers have lost airplanes due to reversed ailerons. Right roll is right up, left down. Left roll
is left up, right down.
Batteries: Transmitter and receiver batteries are
fully charged.
Fasteners: Check all wing bolts, hatch bolts,
servo screws, control horn bolts, wheel collars,
and clevis keepers are tight and secure. Use
Loctite were necessary.
Covering: Check all seems and overlaps are secure and have not lifted. If any air gets underneath the covering it may pull the covering
away form the plane and can cause the model
to crash. Always check before each flight. A
roll of clear tape in you flight box can be used
for any field repairs. Once you get the model
back to your work shop use heat and or Thin
CA glue to secure covering.
Radio: Check trims and sub trims are set to neutral and controls centered. Check rate and
condition switches set properly. Check the
receiver antenna is fully extended and not reversed on it self. Check radio antenna is fully
telescoped.
Fuel: Fill the fuel tank before each flight.
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Aerobatics
The 100cc YAK-54 QB is capable of any aerobatic
maneuver. After you gain some confidence and
little experience flying the airplane you can cut loose
and perform any maneuver you can think of. Here is
a list of some of the more popular aerobatic and 3D
maneuvers you can try:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Loops and rolls
Knife edge flight
Stall turns
Snap rolls
2, 4, and 8 point rolls
Slow rolls
Spins upright and inverted
Flat Spins upright and inverted
Harriers upright and inverted
Water falls
Torque Rolls
Rolling circles
Rolling harrier
The sky and your imagination are you only limits.
FLY and ENJOY!
AEROWORKS
World Class Aircraft
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Yak-54
CUSTOMER NOTES
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