1950s, Mother and Daughter Styles 1960s fashion Opposition to the

Transcription

1950s, Mother and Daughter Styles 1960s fashion Opposition to the
1950s, Mother and Daughter Styles
1960s fashion
Opposition to the Vietnam War by the young and an age of social protest—led to new,
radically different youthful clothing styles
1960
1967
1960’s: Mary Quant invents the miniskirt and helps to usher in a new age…
She supported the anti-parent philosophy of life as fun
“Working class design, British fashion, Rock and Roll, The Beatles, Carnaby Street…all
of a sudden everything came together.” Robert Orbach
Lesley Hornby= Twiggy
In the 60’s Fashion became central to a young person’s identity
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Known for the high fashion mod look created
by Mary Quant
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Twiggy changed the world of fashion with her
short-haired, androgynous look
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Embodiment of Youth-quake generation
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Face of the decade
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Wide-eyed elfin features and slight builds—
hence her nickname
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Her style has dominated the runways for forty
years
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She was also famous for drawing long, fake
eyelashes under her bottom lashes. These are,
unsurprisingly, named “Twiggys.”
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Twiggy was regarded as one of the faces of
1960s Swinging London
1960’s model Twiggy recreates the flapper look of the
1920’s.
Two revolutionary decades for women and fashion
New fabrics that contributed to new
clothing styles
• Polyester: easy-care, easy-to-wear
• New fabrics were comfortable to the touch, wrinkle free, and
care free
• Perfect match for simple miniskirts and short tunic dresses of
the era
• Vinyl (also called PVC) was a shiny, wet- look plastic, easy to
color and print with flamboyant designs. Was used at first for
outerwear then for everything including bags, belts, tunics,
and miniskirts
1960’s
Hot pants, fake animal print; chain mail and clothes made out of funky new fabrics
Revolutionary new fabrics reflected the interest in the “space age” and social causes
Ensemble, 1967, Emanuel Ungaro
Animal print ensembles, 1966/1967, Designed by Rudy Gernreich
Young people used clothes, music, and lifestyle to express new found freedoms
Beatles and Rolling Stones changed music
Manuel: The Beatles, 1967
Esquire magazine calls the era “A Peacock Revolution for Men”
Menswear had greater color and imagination than had been seen since the 18th century
Nashville’s Manuel & John Lennon
Manuel design’s suits for The Beatle’s
Sergeant Pepper album
Nashville’s own beloved Manuel designed iconic looks for Elvis in
the 1950’s & 1960’s
Manuel’s current studio and store: 800 Broadway
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Comeback suit, 1968
Widely copied collection of dresses by Yves Saint Laurent in 1960’s
Geometric lines were inspired by Mondrian
Laurent saw that the flat planes of the shift dress were ideal for working with color blocks
Piet Mondrian, Composition with Red
Blue, and Yellow, 1930. oil on canvas
1960s Pop Art
Inspires Fashion
Dress, ca. 1966–67
American
Disposable paper dresses printed with
allover pattern of
Campbell Soup cans in black, red, and gold
Campbell's Soup I (1968)
Andy Warhol’s Pop Art
Yves Saint Laurent : “The Sun King of Fashion”
1966: The “Le Smoking” tuxedo suit for women
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Created in 1966 by famous couturier
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The first of its kind to earn attention in the
fashion world and in popular culture
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Pioneered long, minimalist, androgynous
styles for women, as well as the use of
power suits and the pantsuit in modernday society
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Seen by many as having empowered
women by giving them the option to wear
clothes that were normally worn by men
with influence and power
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The trouser suit was now suitable for
society lunches and elegant soirees
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This suit has continued to influence
fashion designers' collections through the
2000s.
Le Smoking Suit
Laurent said” I have been strongly influenced by photographs of Marlene Dietrich in a
man’s suit. A woman who dresses like a man-in tuxedo, or blazer-has to be infinitely more
feminine in order to wear clothes which were not meant for her. She must be pretty and
refined down to the smallest detail.”
Marlene Dietrich dressed as a man in Morocco
Le Smoking-- the suit for women
1970’s Fashion:
Dubbed “The era of fashion that never should have happened” or “The decade that
style forgot”
• Unisex clothing of the 1970’s
inspired by changing gender roles
• Clear differences between men’s
and women’s fashions had
eroded
• Leisure wear and blue jeans for
all classes and all occasions
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Pantsuits
Blue jeans
Tee shirts
Tailored shirts
Sweatshirt
Blazers
Running suits
Sneakers
"Charlie's Angels" (1976) - Kate Jackson,
Jaclyn Smith, Farrah Fawcett
"Charlie's Angels" (1976) - Cheryl Ladd
1976) - Jaclyn Smith, Cheryl Ladd,
Shelley Hack
Glam: 1970’s
Rule-Breaker David Bowie
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US rock-and-roll beat, mixed with camp and stylized
showmanship, both a visual movement and a musical
genre
Defined by: theatricality, androgyny, and glamour. The
antithesis of the hippy-dominated late 1960’s
Introduced the fragmented, anything-goes fashion of
the 1970’
Musicians and Fabulous Fashion
Michael Jackson & The Jackson 5
Wool “Power Suit”, 1980s
Giorgio Armani Power
pantsuits, 1985-1989
strong and simple
shapes
Cross-pollination for
women of glamour and
high finance
1980’s oversized:
BIG hair!
Madonna
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Blonde Ambition
Tour, 1990
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A beautiful body intimated success in all areas
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Self-realization in the 70s
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Self-shaping in the 80’s
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Beautiful body: strong, disciplined, athletic
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Women wanted to be strong and healthy
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No longer the untouchable woman of the 50’s,
nor the emaciated Twiggy of the sixties, nor the
cocaine addicts of the 70s
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The ideal, high-powered woman now knew
what she wanted, she was ambitious, but at the
same time distinctly feminine.
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Look what’s back…the corset!!!! But, it’s just for
fun and radical style this time around!
1980’s = Age of Exercise!
Aerobics and Jane Fonda
Body-conscious dressing and state-of-the-art stretch fabrics
inspired and facilitated the exercise craze of the late 70’s and 80’s
1980s-90s Icon: Princess Diana
July 29th, 1981
Considered the most spectacular
wedding of all time
1990s Versace. Veneration of celebrities within the fashion industry
Our fashion “models”= The cult of celebrity
Dress, Evening, for Tina Turner
1996, Gianni Versace
Liz Hurley’s Versace
Safety-Pin Dress
Evening Gown
Spring/Summer, 1996
Culmination of the Gap Revolution: Everyday fashion and couture radically worn together
Sharon Stone, Academy Awards, Gap Turtleneck, 1996
Gap men's shirt and a lavender Vera Wang skirt, 1998
Stella McCartney (1971-, British)
Fashion for NOW
Uses no leather or fur
Outspoken vegetarian
Organic beauty line
Melds fashion and environmentalism
Aesthetic quality first; sustainable design second
Wearable clothing: flirtatious; sexy; comfortable
Inspired by the Renaissance past and the present
The Art of Design, & Thievery
Faith Hill 2013; Kimberly Perry, 2012
Evening Gown, Madame Gres, Fall/Winter 1954-55. Contemporary design
steals from the 1930’s stealing from Ancient Greece
1920s and 1960s serve as design inspiration
CMA Awards, 2013
Inspired by Botticelli?
Taylor is wearing an Elie Saab gown, Jimmy Choo shoes, and Lorraine
Schwartz jewels
Dior’s Zemure, part of the. Dior H-Line Collection, inspired by riding habit, 1954
The Future of Fashion:
Recycling & Sustainability
Chapter Headings
• 1. I Have Enough Clothing to
Open a Store
• 2. How America Lost it’s Shirts
• 3. High and Low Fashion make
Friends
• 4. Fast Fashion
• 5. The Afterlife of Cheap Clothes
• 6. Sewing is a Good Job, A Great
Job
• 7. China and the End of Cheap
Fashion
• 8. Make, Alter, and Mend
• 9. The Future of Fashion
Current Trends for Present fashion: Fast Fashion
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A radical method of retailing that has
broken away from seasonal selling and
puts out new inventory constantly
throughout the year
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Typically priced much lower than it’s
competitors
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Fast fashion retailers have almost twice
the average profit margin of their more
traditional competitors
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The fast fashion industry produces
staggering quantities of cheap, poorly
made, generic clothes
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The huge amount of consumption of fast
fashion is having an enormous toll on
the environment, as well as the
underpaid, overworked laborers in
foreign countries who produce it
Fast Fashion is fueled by:
Globalism:
A global economy and culture
Internet:
An instantaneous exchange of information
which leads to faster and faster changes in
clothing styles and the ability of the
consumer to find new trends at the
cheapest prices
A Final Look at the Beauty of Fashion that Equals Fine Art