Wherryman`s Way Leaflet

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Reeds, eels and wildfowl
Whitlingham
Surlingham
When the trading wherries were in their heyday, local
people relied heavily on the rich natural bounty of the
waters, low-lying marshes, farmland and woodland of
the Yare valley – clay from the ground to make tiles and
bricks, reed from the marshes for export to towns and
cities to be used for thatch and building material; wildfowl,
fish and eels for the table.
Rocky resources
Chalk, quarried from pits near Whitlingham, was loaded
on to wherries and transported to the cement works at Burgh
Castle, near Great Yarmouth. Whitlingham
was also famed for its ‘brickfields’,
reckoned to supply the
finest brick and tile
earths (clays) in Norfolk.
Cold commodities
In the long cold winters of a hundred or so years ago the
River Yare often froze over for weeks at a time. Enterprising
wherrymen harvested the ice, supplying it to businesses, such
as the fish markets at Great Yarmouth. It was stored year-round
in ice houses like the one that used to be on Surlingham Broad.
“
The Broadsman’s life
is full of pleasant variety,
even as the ever-changing
picture gallery which the
seasons offer.
”
Look out for…
◆ easy access trail around the Great Broad.
◆ walks and cycle routes through woods
and meadows on the edge of the
River Yare.
◆ former chalk pits and beautifully
preserved limekiln in the woods.
T.F. Goodall, 1886 – author
and member of the naturalist
school of painters
Rockland St Mary
“
Half an hour’s strolling brought me to Rockland village,
an isolated hamlet with a small staithe at which the wherries
moor, and a narrow channel connecting it with the Broad.
With its swampy osier grounds, yellow reed stacks, and
thatched cottages, it is a typical Broadland hamlet, and the
Look out for…
majority of its few inhabitants are more or less dependent
◆ Surlingham Church Marsh
– this site is a year round
bird watching treat,
complete with circular
walk and bird hide.
◆ hill top views of the
Yare Valley from St
Saviour’s Church.
◆ otters, elusive and shy,
may be seen in early
morning or at dusk.
on the Broad for a livelihood.
”
Hardley Cross
Breydon Water
The point at which the River Chet branches off the River Yare
is also the ancient boundary of jurisdiction between the City
of Norwich and the Borough of Great Yarmouth. For hundreds
of years officials met here in a colourful annual ceremony,
known as the ‘Hardley Inquest’, to declare all the ‘abuses
and privileges’ related to matters of trade on the Yare.
Smelters and wildfowlers
At the time of the wherries, Breydon was a favourite haunt
of wildfowlers and fishermen. Smelts, a type of fish, were
particularly prised by the locals.
Hardley Flood (River Chet)
W.A.Dutt, 1903 – well-to-do Norfolk-born author and naturalist
Look out for…
◆ a rare glimpse of an osprey in spring or autumn, a surprise
sighting of a hen harrier in winter, marsh harriers, and
several species of owl, including the ghostly barn owl.
◆ Cetti’s warbler – listen for its ‘explosive’ call, a speciality
of the Yare Valley.
◆ colourful dragonflies and butterflies, many of them rare,
darting among the reeds on a summer day.
◆ The Slaughters – at low tide on Rockland Broad witness the
skeletal remains of a dozen or so long-discarded wherries.
◆ easy access path from the car park to the RSPB bird hide
(approx 800m).
“
The setting sun gleams like burnished gold on the glass
windows of our houseboat lying anchored in one of the
opalescent streams that thread this moist fairyland of
green sea weed and pinkish mud… the channel winding
Look out for…
through forests of shipping and quays bordering the sea
◆ a wild and remote wildlife paradise that changes
with every season.
◆ the excited springtime twittering of reed and sedge
warblers and the alarming squeal of the rare and
timid water rail.
stained town that rises from a tongue of sand stretching
Berney Arms
Look out for…
◆ the tallest wind pump in the country, used to pump
water from the marshes and to grind cement clinker
for the nearby Reedham Cement Works.
between the river and the ocean.
T.F.Goodall, 1886
Look out for…
”
◆ a paradise for wildfowl – Breydon is an internationally
important estuary for a huge number and variety of geese,
ducks and wading birds.
◆ Burgh Castle – the impressive remains of a 3rd century
Roman fort situated on the edge of the River Waveney
with views over Breydon Water and Halvergate Marshes.
Open: daily.
Halvergate Marshes
Colourful characters
Look out for…
Billy Bluelight
In the 1920s/30s Billy Bluelight
used to challenge boat trippers
to races along the river bank
from Norwich towards Great
Yarmouth. He was famed for
his claim...
◆ wide open vistas, big skies
and distant horizons.
◆ wind pumps, built to control
water levels on the traditional
grazing marshes.
◆ the lucky sighting of a grass
snake swimming through
the dykes in the summer.
◆ wading birds such as
snipe and curlew.
“
My name is Billy Bluelight, my
age is 45, I hope to get to Carrow
”
Bridge before the boat arrive.
Ted Ellis
Celebrated author and naturalist,
Ted Ellis, lived and worked for
much of his life near Surlingham
in the Yare valley. He did much to
champion the cause of nature
conservation on the Broads and,
with his wife Phyllis, established
a nature reserve at Wheatfen
Broad where they lived in a simple
cottage from 1946 onwards.
Bramerton
Pleasure steamers,
strolls and fancy cakes
The Woods End gardens at Bramerton were a
popular destination for fashionable boat trippers from
Norwich. The swings, skittles, aviary and monkey house,
hillside strolls and riverside picnicking were all the rage.
KEY
Look out for…
◆ kingfishers darting inches above the water.
◆ dragonflies flitting to and fro over the marshes
on a sunny summer day.
◆ lapwings calling with their ‘peewit’
cry on a misty winter marsh.
◆ autumn colours along
the low wooded hills.
Wherryman’s Way
Interpretation point
Site of historic interest
Great Yarmouth
Wind pumps and mills
“
Nature reserve
Pushing with lowered mast through the gloomy and austere
bridges, we passed a picturesque corner of Old Yarmouth,
Wherry graveyard
lighted up by the morning sunshine – discovering groups of
Old ferry points
fishermen clad in blue guernseys, all smoking clay pipes as they
Old Scientific
For much of his life Old Scientific
lived aboard a houseboat on
Rockland Broad. He was famed
locally for his wildfowling skills.
When the author P.H. Emerson
met him during an adventure in
the Broads he had just shot two
ospreys, one with a three-pound
pike still in its talons.
Authur Patterson
(John Knowlittle)
In spite of his humble
beginnings, Authur Patterson
set out to excel as a naturalist
and writer and Breydon was
where it all began. A lifetime
scribbler, often under the
pen-name ‘John Knowlittle’,
Arthur became an authority
on the wildlife of Breydon
and the Broads.
watched the sailing craft go through this narrow neck of water
Coldham Hall
P.H. Emerson, 1886
Tavern yarns and
smugglers’ tales
Hard times sometimes
called for desperate
measures, and wherrymen
were not averse to a bit of
smuggling. A wherryman
and Coldham Hall landlord
were sentenced to
transportation for fourteen
years for the theft of nine
gallons of port wine from
the hold of a wherry.
Look out for…
◆ nearby marshes ablaze with yellow flag irises
in May and June.
◆ a bustling waterside pub just across the river from
Brundall – one of the busiest boating towns on the Broads.
◆ nearby Wheatfen, Ted Ellis Nature Reserve – open fen,
reed-beds, alder and willow woodlands with two small
broads and over three miles of nature trail, some parts
suitable for wheelchair users.
”
that joins the Broads and Breydon Water.
Loddon and Chedgrave
Ancient market towns at the heart of the Wherryman’s Way
and an ideal place to break your journey. In the 19th century
there was a different trade associated with almost every
address in the street – even cars were once built here.
Look out for…
◆ former wherry staithe and nearby mill.
◆ two fine churches.
◆ bustling streets and town square with a variety
of pubs and shops.
Langley Dyke
Look out for…
◆ the ruins of a Benedictine abbey (private) near
the end of the dyke.
◆ Cantley sugar beet factory towering on the horizon
like a silent, motionless ship.
Reedham
Caulk and clinker
During the 19th century and
early 20th century Reedham
boasted one of the best boat
building yards in Norfolk. In
fact most Reedham men were
connected in some way or
other with boats – either
as carpenters, wherrymen,
owners, skippers or mates.
Look out for…
◆ a bustling quayside and boat hire location.
◆ bearded reedlings flitting among swaying reeds.
A significant proportion of the entire UK population
of this bird is in the Yare valley.
◆ the fierce currents of a turning tide, whose influence
can easily be seen (and felt if you’re a boater) at this point.
◆ the historic swing bridge that carries the railway over the river.
◆ nearby, the only remaining chain ferry in the Broads.
Look out for…
◆ the South Quay with its historic merchants’ houses and
Rows – the remnants of tightly-packed herring workers’
houses and narrow streets.
◆ Time and Tide Museum – housed in a converted Victorian
herring curing works, this innovative museum takes you on
an exciting journey into Great Yarmouth’s maritime past.
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Walk on the wild side
Return of a native
Getting around
Places to stay
Wherries and wherrymen
The Wherryman’s Way is in The Broads – Britain’s largest
protected wetland. The route passes through many nature
reserves and Sites of Special Scientific Interest, a reflection
of the rich wildlife diversity of the Yare Valley. Whether
you’re fortunate enough to see the rare and unusual,
or experience the adundant and colourful, you will not
be disappointed. Just as the first ‘tourists’ to the area in
the 19th century discovered a remote and wild place, so
you too can still find timeless, hidden places even today.
Today it’s happy hunting for
the marsh harrier thanks to
enlightened conservation
policies that have reversed
years of damage done
by persecution, poor
land management and
over use of pesticides.
Most towns and villages and many of the places featured
in this guide can be reached by public transport, so why
not leave the car behind and explore the Broads by
other means? For more information about all the things
that you can see and do by public transport contact the
Broads Authority.
For those wanting to do the whole route, accommodation
along the way will be necessary. There is a campsite at
Reedham Ferry and there are many small, independent
B&Bs along the route to offer you a wonderful base
for exploring the area. For more information visit
www.wherrymansway.net
Wherries have been part of life in the Broads for hundreds of years. Before roads and railways, waterways
were the main transport routes for trade and people.
River trade – the ability to bring in raw materials and
export finished goods – helped make Norwich
England’s second city.
Train: Stations are located at: Norwich, Brundall,
Buckenham, Cantley, Reedham, Berney Arms,
Great Yarmouth. Tel. National Rail Enquiries
08457 484950 for information.
Want to experience
a wherry?
Bus: Traveline Tel. 0870 6082608 for information.
Saved from the plough
“
The
tranquillity
and placidity of
the landscape was
marvellous – you might
have heard a pin drop. The
landscape seemed asleep, save
where the smoke from the burning
brick kiln floated lazily through the air shadowing
an angler trudging home in the yellow splendour
of the sinking sun.
P.H. Emerson, 1893 –
”
Wherr yman’s Way
The Wherryman’s Way is in the Broads
– Britain’s largest protected wetland.
This 35-mile recreational route follows the
course of the River Yare between Norwich
and Great Yarmouth and takes its name
from the wherry – a large cargo-carrying
barge whose elegant black sails were a
once common sight on these waters.
A landmark in modern conservation, Halvergate Marshes
were designated as the first Environmentally Sensitive
Area (ESA). Here farmers are encouraged to manage
these traditional grazing marshes sympathetically, without
the use of modern chemicals and deep drainage. One of
the voices calling for the protection of the marshes was
Andrew Lees, who later went on to become campaigns
director of Friends of the Earth.
Norwich
Train Station
A number of circular walks start from villages
along or adjacent to the Wherryman’s Way.
Look out for the parish walk boards. Many
of these are easily picked up from 24 hour
moorings, so boaters can also enjoy a stroll
in this lovely river valley.
Visit www.wherrymansway.net or ring
Norfolk County Council on (01603) 222774
for more details.
River bus: Why not do
part of your journey by
river and walk back?
It stops at Whitlingham
Park and Coldham Hall
on a scheduled route.
Boat: There are free 24
hour moorings along the
route and many pubs have
customer moorings. Why
not mix boot with boat to
get a view of the
Wherryman’s Way from
water and land? The RSPB,
City Boats and other
organisations run occasional
boat trips and tours along
the Yare Valley Tel. 01603
610734 for more details.
a well travelled, pioneering
photographer and author
Circular walks
Cycle: There are miles of quiet country lanes and tracks
to explore in this largely undiscovered part of Norfolk.
Cycles can be hired from Whitlingham Country Park –
Outdoor Education Programme Tel. 01603 632307.
The trading wherry, Albion,
can be chartered from
Ludham. Contact Norfolk
Wherry Trust Tel. 01493
740140. Another trading
wherry, Maud, has recently
been restored. Olive, Norada
and Hathor (two wherry
yachts and a pleasure wherry)
can be chartered for cruises from Wroxham.
Contact Wherry Yacht Charter Charitable
Trust Tel. 01508 530793. White Moth,
another wherry yacht, can be chartered
from the Norfolk Broads Yachting Company
Tel. 01692 631330.
Every summer the Broads Authority
charters some of the remaining wherries
and offers a series of short sailing trips
during August. For details of how to
enjoy this unique experience of sailing
in Edwardian style and comfort, contact
the Broads Authority.
The earliest wherry-type vessel was the square-rigged
keel, but by the beginning of the 19th century the
most numerous craft was the wherry – single-sailed
and specially designed for the shallow waterways of
the Broads.
The heyday of the trading wherries was the 19th
century when several hundred sailed the waterways,
carrying all sorts of cargoes – stone, coal, bricks,
timber, reeds, even ice.
“
Both the skipper and his craft told their own
story. It was one of long days and nights sailing in
open and narrow waters; of innumerable loadings
and unloadings at the crowded Norwich and
Yarmouth quays; of a life lived in a perpetual
round of weighing anchor and hoisting sail.
Anna Bowman Dodd, 1896 – an upper class London
lady holidaying aboard a pleasure wherry in the Broads
Dykes and staithes
S
S
Great
Yarmouth
Train Station
S
S
S
”
The River Yare was an important trading route, linking
Norwich with the port of Great Yarmouth and the wider
world beyond. Most towns and villages had dykes
connecting them to the river, and a ‘staithe’ – a place
where wherries moored to load and unload goods.
Road and rail transport eventually took over from wherries,
particularly after the 1914-18 war, when they were left to
do the rougher jobs like dredging and carrying reed.
By the mid-20th century there were no sailing
wherries regularly trading on the Broads
S
Easy access opportunities
S
You can walk the whole route or explore parts of
it by cycle, train and river bus. Alternatively you can
explore one of the ten circular village walks en route.
See www.wherrymansway.net for more.
Paths suitable for wheelchair users and pushchairs
can be found at Whitlingham, Rockland St Mary
Staithe and in 2006 at Chedgrave Common –
see the map and website for more details.
Want to know more?
Maps and guides: The OS Map (Explorer OL40 –
The Broads) is a useful companion for the long-distance
route or circular routes.
Check out the Broadcaster visitor newspaper and
the Broads mini-guide (both produced by the Broads
Authority) for a comprehensive guide to events and
activities on the Yare and Chet.
Information Centres:
Norwich Tourist Information Centre Tel. 01603 727927
Great Yarmouth Tourist Information Centre Tel. 01493 842195
Broads Authority Tel. 01603 610734
Websites:
Check out www.wherrymansway.net for more.
This leaflet was part funded by the EU LEADER PLUS initiative in partnership with the following:
Wherries Olive, Hathor and Norada pictures courtesy of The Broads Authority
Designed by Imagemakers. Tel. 01837 840717 www.imagemakers.uk.com
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The Yare Valley is subject to intermittent flooding during
the winter months. Paths can be muddy at these times.
Sturdy footwear is imperative all year round.
S
Flood alleviation work will affect the footpaths along
the River Chet in 2005/06. Diversions will be clearly
signed on the ground and riverside paths will be
reopened as soon as is possible.
KEY
Bringing the past back to life
Yare Valley Cycle Route
Wherryman’s Way
Tread lightly
The Broads is a vulnerable wetland area – please
respect the special nature of these habitats. Stay on
waymarked paths and take litter home. Traditional
grazing of cows and sheep still takes place on the
marshes. Please keep dogs on a lead and shut gates.
Pub
24hr Mooring
Tearoom
Easy Access Path
S Shops
Circular Walk
Bike/Canoe Hire
Along the Wherryman’s Way route you will discover
a number of sculptures, characters, information panels
and audio points telling tales of times gone by – times
when wherries and wherrymen plied the waterways.
Chat with a wherryman, listen to Billy Bluelight telling
you about his exploits racing steamboats, find out
what’s so special about Rockland Broad and see the
boat builder at work alongside the quay at Reedham.