Issue 30 - City AM

Transcription

Issue 30 - City AM

001 Front 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 16:46 Page 1
CITYA.M.
issue 30 | march 2016
DANCING IN THE
DARK
Fashion special:
The return of the goth
Costume at the
Royal Opera House
Plus:
How to cook with beer
F1 hopeful Jordan King
(and his dad)
002-003 DPS 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 13:03 Page 1
Requires Sky Q box and subscription. Save selected recordings from last 90 days to compatible tablet (www.sky.com/SkyQdevices)
with app connected to home broadband. Viewing limits apply. Peppa Pig © Astley Baker Davies Ltd / Entertainment One UK Ltd 2003.
008 FPA 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 13:12 Page 1
Wempe
Time and Time again
Since 1878
Timepieces and jewellery are our passion. Let our selection thrill you and seduce you!
We look forward to welcoming you with a glass of champagne and showing you enchanting
gifts and very special watches. Incidentally, we offer you a unique aftersales service for
every item you have purchased from us. Small services such as cleaning your watch or
your jewellery are performed by our team, inclusive of watchmakers, directly in the
showroom and without an appointment. Simply drop in when you are in the neighbourhood.
People who love beautiful things are always welcome guests at Wempe.
London, 43–44 New Bond Street, T. 020 7493 2299, [email protected]
At the best addresses in Germany and in Paris, Madrid, Vienna, New York and Beijing. www.wempe.com
009 Contents 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 13:28 Page 1
contents
A scene from La Traviata at the Royal Opera House, see page 22
Cover image credits page 52
BEAUTIFUL THINGS
FEATURES
10. Arts | We bid farewell to fashion’s ginger
22. Fashion of the opera | Behind the
15. Shopping | Our guide to the luxury
26. Community Clothing | E Tautz
36. Watches | A look at some timepieces that
30. Cooking with beer | From pouring
44. Fashion | A celebration of sheer fabric,
54. Justin and Jordan King | The former
queen Grace Coddington and celebrate the
belated success of Marvel’s Miracleman.
scenes at the world-renowned costume
department at the Royal Opera House
items that will keep you looking smooth
and feeling fine.
designer Patrick Grant on his bid to save
the British textile industry.
cross the divide between work and play for
those moments when you finally get a break.
lager into your risotto to making dessert with
stout, we give you the lowdown.
this season’s must-have look that brings a
gothic sensibility to your wardrobe.
Sainsbury’s CEO and his F1-hopeful son sit
down with our resident petrolhead.
Steve Dinneen Editor | David Riley Art Director | Melissa York Features Writer | Steve Hogarty Features Writer | Ozzy Shah Fashion Director
Jeremy Slattery Sales Director | Jade Farrugia Sales Account Manager | Abigale Borsberry Production Manager | Gianni Cavalli Distribution Director
For editorial enquiries contact [email protected] | For sales enquiries contact [email protected]
Published by City A.M., 3rd Floor, 130 Fenchurch Street, London, EC3M 5DJ | Tel: 020 3201 8900; Printed by Polestar Group, 2 Wyncolls Road,
Severalls Industrial Park, Colchester, Essex, CO4 9HU; Distribution helpline: 020 3201 8955 or [email protected] | © City A.M.
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010-013 Arts 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 13:47 Page 1
arts
Grace Coddington and Anna
Wintour sit on the front row
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FAREWELL TO
FASHION
We look back on US Vogue creative director Grace
Coddington’s 30 years at the top of fashion
Steve Dinneen
F
or over half a century Grace Coddington
has been both a loyal servant and a
fiercely independent maverick. As creative director at US Vogue – a role she relinquished last month after a 30-year
tenure – she formed an indomitable
partnership with fellow Brit Anna Wintour, ensuring the most powerful fashion title in the
world weathered the storms of the last three decades
unlike any other.
Born Pamela Rosalind Grace Coddington in Wales in
1941 to hotelier parents, she moved to London aged 18
and began modelling for Vogue for £5 a day. Even a
horrific car accident that sliced off one of her eyelids
couldn’t curtail her modelling career, which later morphed into behind-the-camera work and eventually led
to her role as fashion director. But it’s her unprecedented stint at US Vogue that will be her enduring
legacy. It’s no exaggeration to say Coddington changed
the very concept of fashion photography, moving away
from simply shooting women in clothes to creating an
entire constructed reality, usually laden with props,
often ethereal in its beauty. “For me, fashion isn’t just
frocks,” she once said. “It’s how we do our houses, our
gardens, what we eat and drink.”
Wintour is effusive about her long-term cohort: “It’s
[her] ability to take the slightest seed of an idea and
grow it into a fabulous narrative that has made Grace
the world’s leading fashion editor,” says Anna Wintour.
“She always sees fashion in terms of stories, often of
an amusingly romantic bent. Say ‘fashion fairy tale’ to
Grace and she’ll come back with Aretha Franklin as
the Wicked Queen and Beverly Peele in bed with the
Seven Dwarfs.”
While Coddington isn’t leaving fashion altogether –
she will continue to work on special projects both within
and outside of Vogue – her charismatic presence will be
sorely missed. As Wintour puts it, her “body of work [is]
unmatched by that of any other fashion editor.”
A new book, Grace: Thirty Years of Fashion at Vogue, from
which the above quotes are taken, is out now, published by
Phaidon, priced £125, uk.phaidon.com
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arts
A MIRACLE
REBORN
How a modern classic finally found its audience
after a wait of almost two decades
Steve Dinneen
M
iracleman is the best comic
you’ve never read. For almost
20 years one of the most critically acclaimed graphic novels
of all time languished out of
print while various parties argued over its ownership.
The character started life in 1954 as Marvelman, a
UK substitute for the better-known American heroes at
a time when US comics were banned from these shores
(a protectionist bid to help UK publishers). When the
ban was lifted in 1959, Marvelman – who was renamed
Miracleman after legal threats from the unaffiliated
Marvel Comics – spluttered out of existence.
Then, in 1982, along came the relatively unknown
writer Alan Moore, who changed everything. The writer,
who would go on to create From Hell and Watchmen,
reimagined Miracleman as a dark, deconstructionist
drama that paved the way for the spandex-clad characters we recognise on screen and page today. After 17 deliciously twisted issues, Moore was succeeded by
another little-known writer, Neil Gaiman, who would
also go on to top bestseller lists in both graphic and
print novels. Miracleman’s place in the history books
seemed assured. But Gaiman’s run was cut short when
the book’s publisher, Eclipse, went bankrupt, leaving
the story hanging.
An acrimonious ownership battle ensued, with artist
and writer Todd McFarlane believing he had bought the
rights to the character for $25,000, while Gaiman
claimed part ownership (he funded his legal battle by
writing the critically acclaimed comic 1602). It turned
out that, owing to a historical rights blunder, neither
owned the character, paving the way for Marvel Comics
to step in and buy the rights; ironic given it was responsible for changing the name in the first place. The Alan
Moore issues are now back in print (although he refused
to be credited) and this month sees the release of the first
collected edition of Neil Gaiman’s work, finally bringing
a classic piece of fiction to the audience it deserves. It’s a
miracle it took this long.
Miracleman: The Golden Age by Neil Gaiman and
Mark Buckingham is out now published by Marvel
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Marvelman alternative cover by
Mike Allred, © Marvel Publishing
13
015-18 Beautiful Things 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 17:07 Page 1
beautiful things
IWANTTHAT
From handbags to electric
violins, we’ve got you covered
YAMAHA YEV ELECTRIC VIOLIN
SAINT LAURENT SAC DE JOUR
£TBC, YAMAHA.COM
£1,890, YSL.COM
Yamaha’s upcoming Yev is a beautiful fusion of utility
and aesthetics. The wooden body is designed to create
a smooth, organic sound.
An enduring classic, this signature bag is crafted from
calfskin leather, discreetly stamped with the Saint Laurent logo and kept secure by a golden padlock.
ELECTRA LOFT i3
WILLIAM & SON DOCUMENT CASE
£449, ELECTRABIKE.COM
£980, WILLIAMANDSON.COM
London Fashion Week may be over, but you can still
turn up to meetings in style with this minimalist retro
commuter bike with mid-century design cues.
For those days when a briefcase would be too cumbersome, there’s this slim leather document case from
William & Son, which is large enough for a laptop.
CLARINS MISSION PERFECTION SERUM
BURBERRY GOLD BUCKLE BELT
£53, CLARINS.CO.UK
£225, UK.BURBERRY.COM
This amazing serum corrects everything from dark
spots to a dull complexion without altering your natural skin tone. Magic.
Top tailored trousers off with this tan leather belt featuring Burberry’s signature check and finished with a
chunky gold-tone buckle.
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TO BREAK THE RULES,
YOU MUST FIRST MASTER
THEM.
THE VALLÉE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH,
UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE
HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF
LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE
SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE
YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH
THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL
TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO
CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF
FINE WATCHMAKING.
ROYAL OAK
CHRONOGRAPH
IN STAINLESS STEEL
UNIT 22, CANADA PLACE
CANARY WHARF LONDON E14 5AH
020 7516 0502
beautiful things
ALL OVER STICKERS EBURY BAG
This zany take on the classic Ebury continues that playful theme. Inspired by the stickers that Anya had once
used as a young girl to decorate and personalise her
school backpack, the black leather is adorned with
colourful embossed graphics. It’s also the lightest bag her
label has ever produced, employing a unique three-step
technique to apply graphics to the heat-bonded leather
without the need for bulky stitching. Inside you’ll find a
soft suede lining displaying Anya’s logo.
£1,995, HARRODS.COM
British fashion accessories designer Anya Hindmarch is
known for her eye-catching and often outlandish pieces.
In 2007 her frenzy-inducing I’m Not A Plastic Bag canvas
tote caused riots at retailers around the world, while her
eclectic range of bags have appeared slung over the shoulders of celebrities as diverse as Madonna, Scarlett Johansson and Margaret Thatcher.
HUGO BOSS METAL CARD CASE
DAKS UMBRELLA
£99, HUGOBOSS.COM/UK
£95, DAKS.COM
Show new contacts who’s the boss by handing them a
business card fresh from this Boss holder embossed
with a dark red leather trim, which is as well made as
you’d expect from the German fashion giant.
A staple that will sadly see you through all four British
seasons, this robust, handsome umbrella will be your
outfit’s best friend: nobody wants to turn up to a meeting soaking wet, after all.
16
beautiful things
UNDANDY SHOES
BELLERBY LIVINGSTONE GLOBE
FROM £200, UNDANDY.COM
£1,999, HARRODS.COM
Don’t settle for the same shoes as everyone else: design
your own with Undandy, a company that allows you to
customise everything from the number of leather panels to the colour of the stitching.
Named after the famous Scottish explorer, this globe
is crafted from polished cherry wood, and a 2014 map
with demographic and political information is handpainted on with meticulous attention to detail.
AQUA DI PARMA COLONIA CLUB
NEXTBIT ROBIN SMARTPHONE
£85, AQUADIPARMA.COM
$399, NEXTBIT.COM
Inspired by its heritage Colonia fragrance from 1916,
this eau de cologne is presented in a handsome emerald bottle. It has citrus top notes combined with mint
and neroli to add a lingering freshness.
The Robin isn’t only a stylish new handset. It’s also designed to never run out of space, with remote storage
and a system that learns which apps and features you
use the most then puts the rest in the cloud.
18
Free 10 year
guarantee
020-021 Booze 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 14:31 Page 1
spirits
TOGOUCHI BLENDED
12 YEAR WHISKY
Scottish malt and Canadian grain
form a rich, peaty whisky
£64.95, 31dover.com
THE CHITA BY
SUNTORY
A brand new single-grain whisky
with a sweet flavour that’s not yet
on these shores
HANYU 1990 BATCH
II, THE GREAT WAVE
AKASHI JAPANESE
BLENDED WHISKY
Very rich, creamy and sherried;
notes of nut and toffee
£2,100, dekanta.com
Relatively light and zingy, this
is a great low-price option
£29.95, 31dover.com
HIBIKI JAPANESE
HARMONY WHISKY
Strong notes of orange and wood
with a honeyed sweetness
£53.99, waitrosecellar.com
X
20
X
NIKKA WHISKY
FROM THE BARREL
Notes of boiled sweets,
orange peel and apricot.
£35, waitrosecellar.com
NIKKA TAKETSURU
21 YEAR OLD
This oaky, coffee-noted whisky was
World’s Best blended whisky 2010
£550, dekanta.com
SUNTORY HAKUSHU
SINGLE MALT
Peppermint and melon linger on
this crisp whisky
£45, waitrosecellar.com
020-021 Booze 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 14:32 Page 2
TWELVE OF
THE BEST
Japanese whiskies
SUNTORY
DISTILLER’S RESERVE
Sweet and mellow with
subtle berry notes
£54.99, selfridges.com
Dry whisky with aromas of
leather, dried fruit and tobacco
£199, kosherwineuk.com
ICHIRO’S HANYU
‘THE JOKER’
NIKKA WHISKY
FROM THE BARREL
A soft, caramel taste with floral
and cedarwood notes
£975, whisky.auction
Steve Dinneen
NIKKA TAKETSURU
17 YEAR OLD
W
hen a Japanese brand was
named the world’s best
whisky in 2014 – knocking
Scottish distillers off the top
spot for the first time – the
news travelled across the
globe. But to those in the
know, it had been a long time coming. Japanese
whiskies have been hotting up for a decade or more
and are now beginning to break into the mainstream.
“Japanese whisky tends to be slightly sweeter than
the Scottish equivalent,” says Ron Cregan, head of business development at creative agency Sedley Place and
a judge at the World Whisky Awards. “It’s often less
complex – not necessarily a bad thing – and more accessible. Over the last five to 10 years we’ve seen a big
trend for food from the Pacific Rim area – I think
whisky is just catching up.”
The surge in popularity is also partly down to changing demographics. “Whisky is moving from a traditional, heritage product to something more casual,”
says Cregan. The average age of drinkers is decreasing
and the number of female drinkers is rising fast. “This
new generation has grown up with premium vodka,
moved on to craft gins – brands like Hendrick’s – and
now they want to explore dark spirits. It also helps
that Japanese whisky bottles and labels have such stunning aesthetics.”
Buying, however, can be fraught for the inexperienced. Due to differences in the way the Japanese
whisky market is structured, many varieties have relatively limited runs, especially for the export market. If
you miss out on one the first time, prices tend to rise
exponentially on the resale market, as some of the
prices opposite attest. Your best bet is to get in early; supermarkets including Waitrose now stock a selection
and specialist retailers such as The Whisky Exchange
have dozens to suit every taste and budget. Kanpai!
An unusual, complex, creamy
and fruity whisky.
£44.95, thedrinkscabinet.co.uk
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022-025 ROH 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 14:33 Page 1
feature
FROCK ‘N’
ROLL
The costumes produced at the Royal Opera House and Royal Ballet are
the envy of theatres around the world. Melissa York goes
backstage to discover how they’re made.
X
22
X
The Royal Opera House’s current production of
La Traviata, designed by Bob Crowley
B
loodied disembodied arms hang from
the walls of an otherwise pristine
workroom in Essex, where students –
their focused expressions lit up by as
many Macbook Pros – largely ignore
the gruesome debris in their midst.
“Oh, that’s Napoleon Blown-apart,” the
teacher says. “It’s a project we were working on where
we got the students to create a sleeve that’s been in an
explosion.” Her casual tone implies that the creation of
puffy sleeves bursting with seeping wounds is all in a
day’s work for a costume maker, which is what this determined dozen are training to be. Some will work on
grand BBC period dramas, others will make alterations
for West End shows, and a couple may even make it into
the prestigious Royal Opera House and Royal Ballet in
Covent Garden.
Currently, the world-renowned costume department
employs 104 people, including four apprentices. During
peak periods, this number can be supplemented by up
to 40 freelancers, working on between five and eight
shows at once.
Designs come in for shows at least a year in advance,
usually as a result of a collaboration between the designer and director. Usually, that is; the current revival
of Verdi’s La Traviata playing at the ROH came from
rather more unusual quarters, according to its designer
Bob Crowley. “It was being conducted at the time by the
late, great Sir Georg Solti and he had design approval,
which is very unusual for a conductor, but he was such
a superstar,” he says. “So I had to visit him at his house
in Hampstead and ask, what is it you want from me?
And I’ll never forget it, he just said, ‘I want big frrrrocks!’
“I had never done anything in that period before, so
I went off and did my research. At the time, it got a lot
of criticism for being so traditional, but actually I think
it’s one of its strengths now.”
The costumes and set, originally designed for the
1994 production, are just as sumptuous as ever and ➤
23
feature
➤ there’s no doubt the lavish attention piled on its
Parisian couture and vivid set design has contributed to
the production’s longevity. “I think it’s something you
only get to see now at the ROH or perhaps The Met in
New York. La Traviata is something that people like to
see again and again, so they don’t like it to be too disposable.”
After the final curtain, these costumes and sets used
to be cast out to a warehouse in Wales but, since October last year, they’ve been sent to Bob and Tamar
Manoukian Costume Centre in Thurrock. Part-funded
by the eponymous billionaire businessman and the EU,
it houses over 20,000 costumes, wigs, shoes and props
from the archives, as well as 120 sets, from 1946 to the
present day. In these purse-string tightening times, the
move allows the ROH and the Royal Ballet to work in a
more sustainable way, recycling costumes without having to ship them over from Wales. Archiving and conserving historically important items from famous
productions or designers can also be done more efficiently here; pieces created by artists from David Hockney to Giorgio Armani are housed among the centre’s
rolling stacks.
In the Thurrock workshop three costume-makers
work full time creating sturdy, high quality costumes
in bulk, largely for the ROH chorus or the corps de ballet. “They’ve got to be strong enough to dance in and to
go through the laundry,” says Amanda Hall, head of costume at Thurrock. “We do make them neatly, but
there’s a big difference between fashion and costume.
They look less finished on the inside, for instance, they
won’t be lined and they need to be easy to alter.”
The centre is also a vital part of the ROH’s efforts to
train the costume makers of tomorrow. In September,
the first cohort of students embarked on its inaugural
costume construction degree in partnership with South
Essex College, which is part-written by ROH to include
in-demand skills, such as tutu-making, archiving and
conservation. Apart from the obvious prestige attached
to the ROH, students are drawn by the access it provides
to professionals working in the industry, says course
leader Rachel Young. “They’re seeing just how hard and
fast these people work from downstairs and the amount
of work they get through. It also shows them the diversity of the things they’ll be making. You might be working for the ROH in a studio, but you’ll never be making
the same things from week to week.”
Even industry veterans, like Crowley, still come up
against unforeseen obstacles, such as the advent of live
streaming. The ROH was one of the pioneers when it
came to broadcasting opera, and the initiative has been
a resounding success, beaming its productions to cinema audiences around the world for a fraction of the
cost. This presents new challenges for costume makers
who need to make sure their creations are both practical and detailed enough to withstand the scrutiny of
high definition cameras. “It’s terrifying,” says Crowley.
“That was never on the horizon when I started designing. I’ve worked in movies and TV where you’re constantly talking about the close-up, but that was never
the case in the theatre or the opera until quite recently.
I think it’s a brilliant thing, but it makes our eyes just
a little bit more self-conscious.”
Back at the Thurrock costume centre, Hall says that
while she’s aware her costumes may be seen on camera,
the designs are still predominantly for the audience on
the night. “You have to make them strong, particularly
with ballet costumes. You might see a few elastic straps
on camera that are invisible from the stalls, but the important thing is the costume stays on the dancers and
they don’t have to think about it.” Hall adds that the
quality demanded of the ROH is so high that her work
Clockwise from above: Dress worn by Joan Sutherland as
Violetta in La Traviata; Costume construction degree
students Emilie Junteau and Jacqueline Creasy; Dress from
the current production of La Traviata, designed by Bob
Crowley; the workroom at the Thurrock costume centre;
Sleeves made by students as part of their Napoleon Blownapart module. All photography by Greg Sigston
still has to be extraordinarily detailed, whether it’s destined for the cameras or not.
Perfectionism is a common trait shared by costume
makers, from the trainee cautiously dotting blood spatter on a satin sleeve right up to multiple Tony Award
winners like Crowley. “People ask me, ‘why do you go
to so much detail on your costumes? How are people
going to see it from across the orchestra pit?’ But I’m
convinced you do see it and an audience feels it. Anything less would just be patronising.”
La Traviata runs at the Royal Opera House,
Covent Garden, until 19 March b
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026-029 Grace Coddington 3 Mara 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 14:39 Page 1
fashion
RAGS TO
RICHES
E Tautz designer Patrick Grant hopes to revitalise the
British textile industry with his new cooperative
Community Clothing label, says Steve Dinneen
P
atrick Grant, the award-winning designer behind resurgent Savile Row
tailor E Tautz, is best known for his
modern take on traditional men’s tailoring. With his latest venture, however, he’s set his sights even higher:
saving the UK textile industry.
Community Clothing was born when E Tautz’s manufacturer Cookson and Clegg near Blackburn (also a
supplier to brands including Burberry) went bust, no
longer able to cope with the downtime built into the
fashion manufacturing cycle. Grant stepped in and
bought the factory (he won’t talk numbers, but says the
sum “wasn’t significant” as it was already losing
money). He now plans to fill the lulls in production by
selling a range of direct-to-consumer staples such as
jeans and raincoats.
To fund the venture Grant has launched a Kickstarter
campaign – a service that allows consumers to invest in
products before the manufacturing process has begun –
with the goal of reaching £75,000. After 10 days the
campaign had reached just shy of £20,000 with another
20 days of fundraising still to go. If successful, Grant –
who is busy filming the latest series of The Great British
Sewing Bee – says he will “hit the button” almost immediately and will be able to honour his first orders as
soon as April. “Some people in the fashion industry
have been a bit slow to understand the Kickstarter
process but I think they’re coming round,” he says.
So how precarious is the state of the UK textile industry? “There are some manufacturers who are doing
well,” says Grant, “but there are a lot who are balanced
on a knife edge. Seasonality is worse in fashion than almost anywhere else. In most industries you can predict
demand and plan ahead – in fashion you have to start
from scratch every six months with a whole new set of
fabrics and designs. You end up with 12 to 16 weeks
where factories are running on empty.
“In the downtime you can speculate and, say, produce a load of navy jumpers in the hope you can shift ➤
X
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SPRING/SUMMER 2016
MODERN SIMPLICITY
INSPIRED BY THE 90s
C U R AT E D BY J O H N L E W I S
Hobbs waistcoat £129, Bruce by Bruce Oldfield trousers £99, Selected Femme trainers £75, Calvin Klein bra £34,
Calvin Klein briefs £23, Calvin Klein Eternity parfum from £50, Kin trainers £69, Coach satchel £325, Hobbs shirt £79.
fashion
Above: Patrick Grant talks to a worker in his Blackburn factory; Below: a pair of his men’s straight-cut, five pocket jeans, which will cost £49
➤ them, or you muddle through by making aprons or
any other small jobs that come your way, but these
aren’t enough to pay the bills. Companies can get stuck
in a downwards spiral where they can’t afford the costs
of training new staff and skills end up being lost.”
Grant says his vision for Community Clothing is to
build on the limited initial range, which consists of
jeans (men’s and women’s, both £49), harrington jackets (£79), and raincoats (£119). “Because we’re selling direct to customers, the prices are remarkably cheap and
the quality is incredible – proper high-end British manufacturing.” Additions to the line are likely to include
“socks, scarves, chinos – anything we can manufacture
to a high standard with our partners. We want to be a
big brand selling all types of clothes.”
He says since the campaign went live he’s been contacted by manufacturers working with other textiles including knitwear, and his vision is to build up a
manufacturer’s cooperative. The majority of Community Clothing’s products will be sold online, both
through its website and an eBay store: “We need to sell
directly to consumers because we can’t open a network
of retail outlets. It’s all about connecting consumers
with manufacturers.”And if he doesn’t reach the Kickstarter target (which means all of the pledges become
void and he receives nothing)? “We’ll get there by hook
or by crook – because this is really, really important.”
Search for Community Clothing on kickstarter.com b
➤
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030-033 COOKING W_BEER 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 14:42 Page 1
feature
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30
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LIQUID
LUNCH
After a chance meeting between lager and risotto, Mark Dredge
developed a life-long fascination with adding beer to everything he ate.
Now he has his very own cookbook so you can too.
I
BELGIAN BEEF BRISKET
was making risotto the first time I poured
beer into my dinner. The recipe called for a
glass of wine; I was drinking a bottle of lager
and I figured that I’d use that instead. It was
delicious. In the 10 years since, I’ve cooked
with every kind of beer there is, using it every
possible way: curries with lager, breakfast
pancakes with coffee stout, quick stir fries, slow-braised
stews, ice creams, cakes, doughs, sauces, brines, batters
and, yes, risottos.
So when can you use beer in a recipe? Simple: if a liquid is called for, you can probably substitute it for beer.
This nectar of the gods comes in an incredible breadth
of styles: the citrus and tropical aromas in IPA give
depth to mac ‘n’ cheese and add zing to a chocolate
mousse; you can cure a side of salmon in spicy Belgian
Witbier and use the same bottle in place of lemon over
a Thai curry; treacly Imperial Stout enriches a banana
cake and can be brilliant in chilli. There’s a wonderful
alchemy involved in taking a drink you love and transcending it into something delicious to eat. Here are
five of my favourite dishes cooked with beer.
People have cooked with beer for as long as civilisation
has mixed grain with water and allowed it to ferment
into alcohol. It would’ve gone into breads and braises,
been mixed into sauces, poured into dense fruit cakes
and, if it turned sour, used to preserve vegetables. Belgium is the home of cuisine à la bière and the best,
most dedicated beer cuisine: mussels cooked in wheat
beer, endive in beer-cheese sauce, rabbit in cherry beer,
chicken in strong golden ales, chocolate mousse with
dark Trappist ale, and the classic dish of Carbonnade
Flamande or beef slow-cooked in Belgian beer.
You can make this with a number of different beers
– sometimes a strong, dark monastery beer, others an
idiosyncratic local sour ale. It’s beer’s version of beef
bourguignon, the Belgian equivalent of beef and ale
stew and the ideal starter recipe for someone wanting
to cook with beer. My version uses a big slab of brisket,
softened for a few hours in the rich Belgian beer with
some complementary spices like cinnamon and ground
coriander. It’s great served with chips and a bottle of
➤
dark Belgian ale.
31
feature
Above: beer-cured bacon on beer bread with beer ketchup; Mark Dredge’s Cooking with Beer; Previous page: Various beer-based culinary creations
BEER PIZZA DOUGH
BEER-CURED BACON
The Great Beery Bake Off is how I fondly remember
writing one chapter of Cooking with Beer. For several
weeks I was forever covered in flour, decanting bottles
into tray bakes, biscuits, pastry and cakes. It was dough
that I became most interested in – it’s amazing how the
yeast in the beer interacts with the baking yeast, giving
extra lift and lightness, while also contributing flavour.
Pizza is my favourite dough-based beer baking – quick,
easy and very effective. I like to use a German wheat
beer or a dark lager; both are low in bitterness and add
nutty, caramelised qualities to the dough, which you
can’t get using water. I top my pizza with a beery
tomato sauce: just simmer chopped tinned tomatoes
with garlic, basil, sugar, salt and a few splashes of beer
and let it reduce into a thick sauce.
Pork belly cured in beer is as good as it sounds. One
morning, hungover and contemplating hair of the dog,
I made the connection between pig and pint, and looked
into making my own wet-cured bacon. You need to lower
a slab of belly pork into a mix of smoky porter with some
added maple syrup, water and salt. Leave it in the fridge
and a week later you’ll have beer-cured bacon, which is
ready to be sliced up and cooked (unless you’ve got serious knife skills this will be thick like gammon, not thin
like the supermarket stuff). The beer and maple syrup
add savoury smoke and sweetness, all of which is remarkable when fried, charring and caramelising onto the
meat. I serve it on beer bread with beer ketchup and a
glass of porter or stout on the side – it’s the best beer
brunch and it can simultaneously cause your next hangover while curing your current one.
LAGER AND CHICKEN LIME TACOS
STOUT CHOCOLATE BANANA PUDDING
Sometimes rogue cans of cheap lager turn up in the
fridge; God knows where they come from. I’ve sought various ways to use them in the kitchen – flat breads, curries, soups and pies – but my favourite is as a brine in
tacos. Brining is one of the best ways to cook with beer,
mixing it with water, salt and sugar, plus other ingredients like chilli, citrus or herbs, to help make your meat
juicy and infused with flavour. Lager and lime is a wellknown duo, whether it’s the old-school pub order or the
wedge thumbed into bottled Mexican beer, and it gives
a zesty sweetness to chicken which I top with an avocadolager salsa (chop avocado, squeeze in lime, add a splash
of beer, seasoning and fresh chilli). I also make the corn
tacos with lager: mix masa harina and beer into a dough,
press into very thin tacos and fry quickly in a dry pan.
Pour a decent local pale ale with this. It’ll taste a lot better than any Mexican lager.
I didn’t know it at the time, but my mum’s Christmas
pudding was the first thing I ever ate that was made
with beer. It’s only later that I can look back on it and
imagine how the dark, strong ale infused the festive
pudding, adding richness and depth. My mum is a great
cook and when my sister and I were growing up we were
allowed to choose what we had for dinner on our birthdays – I always went for chocolate and banana pudding.
I still do, but now I add a bourbon barrel-aged Imperial
Stout – a powerful, strong, dark beer with notes of
chocolate and vanilla – to the sponge mix to reinvent
my childhood favourite with an adult twist.
Mark Dredge is an award-winning beer, food and travel
writer based in London. Cooking with Beer, published by
CICO Books, is out now priced £16.99
33
advertising feature
34
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FOR ALL
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requent business flyers will be painfully
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100 per cent business class flight that’s two to three
times less expensive than its equivalent British Airways and Virgin flights.
The carrier offers all the luxuries you would expect
from a business class flight, including 74 spacious lieflat seats and tablets packed with the latest films,
music, magazines and books. The top quality menu, devised by Christophe Langrée, the former chef to the
Prime Minister of France, includes classics such as
daube de bœuf and ravioli. Passengers also have access
to the exclusive “Aspire” business class lounge at London Luton and the “Art & Lounge” at New York Newark.
So when you next need to jet off to the Big Apple for
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35
036-040 Watches 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 14:46 Page 1
watches
WATCH TALK
Timothy Barber
PLAY
TIME
Watches for when the office is far, far away
T
VACHERON OVERSEAS ULTRA-THIN
ies are just so very 2014, aren’t they?
Right now, dressing down is the new
suited up to the nines, which you’d
think would make life easier. Inevitably, though, the opposite is the
case: looking effortlessly relaxed requires considerable effort, and details
are everything. That’s where a classic wristwatch comes
to the rescue – designs that stand the test of time will
bend with ease to the style of the moment, and give you
an anchor that’s constantly classy. These three examples are among the very best.
£43,300, VACHERON-CONSTANTIN.COM
The Overseas is ostensibly Vacheron Constantin’s travel
watch (hence the name). That means it works in a rollneck as well as a shirt and tie – a relaxed and faintly
leisurely watch, but one that’s nevertheless designed
and constructed with all the craft of a Rolls Royce. This
new version is slim, understated (no date, no seconds
hand, grey dial), while still ineffably luxurious. The best
thing about it? It comes with three interchangeable
strap and bracelet options, meaning you can adapt it to
your outfit as you please.
36
BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON 10100
IWC PILOT’S WATCH MARK XVIII
£2,150, BAUME-ET-MERCIER.CO.UK
£3,190, IWC.COM
Lots of watch firms have pilot’s watches, IWC has the
pilot’s watch: one with both the history and the style
to define a genre. IWC’s succession of crisply beautiful
“Mark” watches are based on one it supplied to the RAF
from the 1950s to the 1980s (the Mark XI), and reach
their eighth iteration this year. Though white markings
on black is the classic style, this silver dial version offers
a dapper twist on a quintessential look.
The company founded as “Frères Baume” in 1830 by
brothers Louis-Victor and Célestin makes a host of timepieces that span the divide between smart and casual.
Indeed, the Clifton is designed to “meet all possible requirements in any part of the world” – and it does so
with a quiet verve. This 10100 model has a sleek black
dial with a second display at the 6 o’clock and date at 3
o’clock.
WATCH THIS SPACE
HARRODS.COM
Speed, motorsports, endurance, precision – the world
of the chronograph is a fun one, and Harrods is dedicating itself to it in March with a month-long exhibition. Expect to see some of the finest and most
exclusive examples in the world, from Rolex’s legendary Daytona (ultra-rare platinum edition, pictured)
to A Lange & Sohne’s Datograph and a whole host in
between, in the Fine Watch Room on the ground floor.
This is a watch and motorsports geek’s dream – don’t
miss out.
37
watches
WOMEN’S HOUR
Laura McCreddie
GIRLS WHO
LIKE BOYS
Women’s watches that are just smaller versions of
their masculine counterparts could be making a comeback
I
t is a truth universally acknowledged that a
man’s watch shrunken in size and covered
with diamonds does not a woman’s watch
make. However, that is precisely what
Vacheron Constantin has done with
its Overseas Small Model, which it unveiled last month at SIHH, the inviteonly watch event in Geneva. And you know
what? It pulls it off. More than that, in fact,
it’s a very beautiful, stylish and wearable
women’s watch. Aside from the addition of Arabic numerals to replace indices, the Small Model
is the men’s Overseas in sparkly, diminutive dimensions. Vacheron hasn’t even
bothered to think up a more original
name to disguise the fact. But why
should it? Isn’t it possible that, in getting all over-excited that the vogue for
merely miniaturising men’s watches is
over, we’ve not stopped to consider that
these styles actually serve a purpose?
There’s been a lot written (mostly by me)
about how women should be plundering
their partners’ stash of timepieces but what
if you just don’t have the requisite wrist radius? A 42mm case can have the potential to
look quite ridiculous on too delicate a wrist,
which is where styles such as Vacheron’s come
into their own. Bremont was something of a pioneer in this field
when it launched its Solo 37 back in 2012. Apart from a
stainless steel middle barrel and metallic (not red)
marker at 12, this has all the pilot style of the brand’s
iconic Solo packed into a 37mm case. Bremont even admitted that it created the smaller option because
women were complaining that their husband’s
Solos were just too big.
Hublot is another example of a brand that has
long extolled the virtues of giving women exactly what men have, but in a smaller, prettier
guise, which is precisely what it’s done with
its Big Bang. Whether it’s got a diamond
bezel, broderie dial or psychedelic strap, it is
still unmistakably a Big Bang, whatever size
the case. Rolex has also been an early adopter of
this particular style of watch design,
so much so that, along with Cartier,
it dominated the “his ‘n hers” watch
trend beloved of the nouveau riche
of the 1980s. While that trend thankfully seems to be on the wane, Rolex and
Cartier offer an impressive selection of
masculine watches for feminine wrists,
with the Oyster Perpetual and Tank collections worthy of special mention.
When you take all this into consideration,
Vacheron’s decision to present a shrunken Overseas as its women’s watch for this year’s SIHH
seems like a smart move.
Combine that with fashion’s ongoing obsession with androgyny, which, if the latest crop of
2016 catwalks are to be believed, shows little sign of
abating, it suddenly looks like a brand interpreting precisely what its female customers want right now.
38
HEY, GOLD
TIMER
Remember yellow gold watches? If you liked Miami
Vice or hung around the Marbella Club in the 1980s,
then maybe – but in the modern era, coloured gold
has been resolutely of the more cultured, pink vari-
ety. Enough, says Audemars Piguet, which is this year
launching yellow gold versions across its Royal Oak
collection. Time to roll up the sleeves on that baggy
white Armani suit…
39
IN THE REAR SEAT: SERENITY
IN THE FRONT SEAT: EUPHORIA
MASERATI QUATTROPORTE. STARTING FROM £69,560
The Quattroporte is more than just the finest high performance, luxury sports saloon. It blends extraordinary beauty with
uncompromising performance from a range of V6 and V8 engines. A classic and exclusive grantourer with unmistakeable
Italian design.
www.maserati.co.uk
Official fuel consumption figures for Maserati Quattroporte range in mpg (l/100km): Urban 18.1 (15.6) – 35.8 (7.9), Extra
figures are based on standard EU tests for comparative purposes and may not reflect real driving results. Model shown is
alloy wheels at £3,360.
Urban 35.8 (7.9) – 54.3 (5.2), Combined 26.4 (10.7) – 45.6 (6.2). CO2 emissions 250 – 163g/km. Fuel consumption and CO2
a Maserati Quattroporte GTS at £114,830 On The Road including optional mica paint at £1,080, 20” Anthracite GTS design
042-043 Trending 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 14:52 Page 1
fashion
NOW
TRENDING
Fashion artist Emma Hopkins lays bare the latest styles for
spring/summer 2016 to help you stay ahead of the crowd.
Burberry mohair jacket, £995, and trousers, £495, both burberry.com;
Ted Baker Ginipig shirt, £95, and tie, £55, both tedbaker.com; Reiss Ten
tote bag, £130, reiss.com; Jigsaw derby boot, £249, jigsaw-online.com
Paul Smith navy and green check blazer, £785, and trousers, £305, both
paulsmith.co.uk; Smythson Burlington holdall, £1,295, smythson.com;
Allen Edmonds wingtip brogues from Reiss, £295, reiss.com
42
042-043 Trending 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 14:53 Page 2
Christopher Kane dress, £POA,
christopherkane.com; Aspinal
chameleon tote, £895,
aspinaloflondon.com; Aldo Aalessa
wedge sneakers, £80,
houseoffraser.co.uk; For more
fashion sketches follow
@illustratoremma on Instagram
43
044-053 Fashion 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 15:07 Page 1
fashion
44
SHEER
DELIGHT
Bring out your inner goth with these floaty black
dresses and vampish accessories
Pictures: Carla Guler
Styling: Ozzy Shah
Agent Provocateur bra, £110, agentprovocateur.com; Cartier bracelet, £16,500,
cartier.com; Chanel Fine Jewellery ring, £3,625, and necklace, £POA, chanel.com;
Van Cleef ring, £53,000, and brooch, £9,100, both vancleefarpels.com; Faberge
earrings, £30,000, and cuff, £141,000, both faberge.com;
45
fashion
This page: Zimmermann dress, £POA,
zimmermannwear.com; Giuseppe Zanotti leather
trousers, £1,195, giuseppezanotti.com; Christian
Louboutin shoes, £595, christianlouboutin.com;
Hermes cuff, £780, hermes.com
Opposite: Emilio de la Morena dress, £2,106,
emiliodelamorena.com; Osman hat, £POA,
osmanlondon.com
46
47
fashion
48
Opposite: Julian Macdonald bodysuit, £POA, julianmacdonald.com;
Agent Provocateur robe, £POA, and
bra, £110, both agentprovocateur.com
This page: Miu Miu coat, £2,940,
dress, £815, vest, £450, and tiara,
£240, all miumiu.com; Falke tights,
£18, falke.com
49
fashion
Burberry Prorsum dress,
£1,995, burberry.com;
Aquazzura shoes, £440,
net-a-porter.com;
Alexander McQueen coat,
stylist’s own, Charlotte
Aluna bag, £1,200,
charlottealuna.com
50
THE FASHION EVENT
FRIDAY 1 - SUNDAY 3 APRIL
fashion
This page: Osman hat, £POA,
osmanlondon.com; Julien
Macdonald dress, £14,000, and
body-suit, £POA, both from
julienmacdonald.com
Cover image: Agent Provocateur
bra, £110, and body-suit, £POA, both
agentprovocateur.com; Pinko skirt,
£253, pinko.it
Opposite page: Zimmermann dress,
£661, zimmermannwear.com;
DSquared2 belt, £155, dsquared2.com;
Ermanno Scervino headband, £310, and
slippers, £930, both ermannoscervino.it
Fashion assistant: Harry Clements
Hair & makeup: Scarlett Burton using
YSL Beautè and Bumble & Bumble
Hair & makeup assistant: Sophie Heaton
Retouch: Faye Sampson
Shoot location: Ormonde House,
currently on the market for £10.8m
through Pastor Real Estate, pastorrealestate.com or 020 3195 9595
52
53
054-057 Motoring 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 15:00 Page 1
motoring
KING OF THE
CIRCUIT
His father’s backing may have given Jordan King an enviable headstart to
his racing career. But it takes more than cash to become a champion.
Adam Hay-Nicholls speaks to a Formula One star in the making.
J
ordan King is just 22-years-old, but to talk
with him you’d think he’d been racing in
Formula One for a decade, such is his calm
confidence and commercial aptitude. He’s
currently contesting F1’s feeder series, GP2,
and testing for the Manor F1 team with the
hope of stepping up to a race seat next year.
It probably doesn’t hurt that his father is former Sainsbury’s CEO turned Terra Firma VP Justin King, a sports
mad dad who is passing on his business expertise to his
son, and getting to grips with the boardrooms of Formula One himself.
This season Jordan is continuing with top team Racing
Engineering, with whom he made his GP2 debut last
54
year, alongside best mate Alexander Rossi, who moonlights as a fully-fledged F1 driver. They were evenly
matched in qualifying, with the more experienced Rossi
coming out best in race results, but Jordan reckons next
year will launch him into the premier league.
Once you prove yourself as an F1 driver you’re showered with riches, but until then these young men are
forced to find the money that pays their team’s bills. Jordan’s GP2 seat costs just shy of £1m a season. His father
stumps up 35 to 40 per cent of that, but it’s down to Jordan to bring in the lion’s share.
It’s been big bills all the way up the ladder, even when
he started in karting aged 12 following a trip to his local
track, where onlookers first spotted his potential. “Proper
karting is expensive,” says Jordan, who started late compared to F1 stars like Sebastian Vettel. “It starts at £5,000
to £10,000 a year, and without my dad I could never have
got started. When I finished school at 18 he said right,
this is your career now and you’ve got to do it.”
The young King was at a greater advantage than his
peers when it came to sponsorship, thanks to his father’s
contacts book, but it was the boy who did the pitching.
“I’ve never been to a sponsor meeting for him,” says
Justin, 54. Now Jordan has 11 partners, including Hugo
Boss and watchmaker Bulova. Deal-making, he says, is
something he’s been groomed for.
“Sitting around the dinner table, a lot of the conversation is about business,” says Jordan. “So from a very
young age I’ve been open to it. I knew what targets I was
shooting at. It’s definitely helped, having him as my dad.”
The economics of racing GP2s – single-seaters, all identical, which look a bit like F1 cars but with a few hundred
fewer horsepower – would give any investor a nervous
tick. The costs are mighty but the exposure, at least compared to F1, IndyCar, and Nascar is negligible. However,
the Kings are selling the vision that by getting in early
his personal sponsors will reap the rewards should he
step up to grand prix racing. “I’m looking at bringing in
partners that want to break into Formula One but can’t
afford the Formula One bill, and doing it with a driver
to whom they’ll get a lot more access,” Jordan says. “Get
involved now and we can start to develop some stuff, and
then imagine the story you can tell. We’ll have been on
that journey [to F1] together.”
Justin reveals the scale of the challenge, particularly
for drivers who don’t have dads who command their own
£1m salaries. “Part of the problem for a lot of drivers is
that they’re trying to get the whole thing funded from a
sponsor. At the early levels of the sport that’s nigh on
impossible. Because what you have to offer the sponsor
can’t be value for money.”
Jordan was absent from school for a lot of his teens, albeit with permission. Rugby and football mad, he won
an all-round sports scholarship to Repton, alma mater of
such petrolheads as Jeremy Clarkson and Red Bull F1 car
designer Adrian Newey. Clearly supportive of extra-curricular car racing, the headmaster allowed Jordan to be
absent from boarding school for four or even five days ➤
55
INCOME OR
GROWTH? WHY
NOT BOTH?
LET’S TALK HOW.
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The fund targets UK blue chip companies with a
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PAST PERFORMANCE – WITH INCOME REINVESTED
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Dec 10 Dec 11
Dec 11 Dec 12
Dec 12 Dec 13
Dec 13 Dec 14
Dec 14 Dec 15
Fund
Yield
7.5%
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Please remember that past performance is not a
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may also be obtained from Fidelity. Issued by FIL Investments International, authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Fidelity, Fidelity International,
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motoring
“
It would be naïve not to recognise the perception that
he’s in the driver’s seat because of me, but the reality is
the two things are independent. I want to be able to
look in the mirror and say that.
➤ a week so he could pursue his dream.
“When I arrived at the school [having won a sports
scholarship], I realised that I was becoming far more interested in racing than rugby and football. They were fine
with that. That’s the type of school they are, they just
love sports, all sports.”
“He was a national level athlete until he was 19,” says
Justin, “he captained his school at cricket, football,
rugby, athletics and cross country. Then he broke his collar bone playing football and missed a chunk of time in
the kart as a result. His team read him the riot act, saying
he needed to be more serious about karting. That’s when
he committed to it. When he was recovering from that
accident the sport he missed the most was racing.”
Between the ages of 14 and 18 Jordan raced all over Europe, the Americas, Egypt and Macau. He’d duck out of
school on a Wednesday night and return following the
race on Sunday. “My teachers would collect all the work
I’d missed, so it was very intensive for those two or three
days a week I was at school. I had to work a lot harder
than the other kids.”
It’s all the more remarkable when you consider that,
like three-times F1 champion Sir Jackie Stewart, Jordan
is dyslexic. “I found ways around it, but it was tough and
quite early on I wrote off English. But in maths and sciences I was really strong. I kind of overcompensated.”
It’s fair to say that Jordan had the flashiest car in the
school car park. Thanks to an arrangement with Jaguar
he got to tool around town in an F-Type. “After about a
year he realised the sponsorship wasn’t worth as much
as he thought because he was having to pay the insurance himself,” says Justin.
Not only does King Senior share his son’s love of sports
– even claiming to be an avid darts watcher – he likes his
cars. His current garage includes a McLaren 12C, as well
as his Jaguar XJ working wheels. Perhaps dad was trying
to live vicariously through Jordan’s path to Formula One?
“My parents never pushed anything,” says Jordan, who
therefore has a different relationship with his dad than,
say, Lewis Hamilton or Max Verstappen. “I asked both my
mum and my dad recently why they hadn’t pushed me
more, that it might have helped, but their argument was
that had they been pushy I would never have wanted to
do it for myself.”
Jordan’s parents divorced shortly after he graduated
from Repton. “Obviously I’d rather my parents were still
together, but they live half an hour from each other and
I can drive. Logistically it’s made it a bit more difficult
because I don’t come back to one house, I go back to two,
but that’s okay. I’m out of the country most of the time
and it’s not impacted on my career. Mum loves the racing, she’s not scared, she leans over the barrier yelling at
me to drive faster.”
Jordan has a sister, Briony, who’s two years older and
followed a more traditional route; Repton, then Nottingham University and now accountancy. “My dad got a 2:1
and she got a First, just to beat him,” says Jordan. While
Justin was taking the lad to race tracks, mum Claire was
taking Briony around the country horse riding.
In the last couple of years, Justin’s own interest in
motor racing has led him to join forces with OVO Energy
founder Stephen Fitzpatrick, with Justin becoming
chairman of Fitzpatrick’s Manor F1 team. A year ago F1
nut Fitzpatrick decided to buy the team after he sat in
the grandstands at a grand prix and wondered how he
could get on the other side of the fence. King, meanwhile, had left his £900,000-a-year job at Sainsbury’s and
joined private equity firm Terra Firma. This followed rumours that he’d left Sainsbury’s to take over the running
of Bernie Ecclestone’s Formula One Group. “Well, there
was talk, but not from me,” he cautions. “It remains the
case that there isn’t a vacancy. At Terra Firma I have
something which really fits my skills, and I think we’ve
done quite a special thing in salvaging Manor.”
There are two Kings at Manor, Justin the chairman
“until we’ve put the business on a firm footing” and Jordan the test driver and wannabe F1 racer. If he climbs
into a race seat in 2017, will it be on merit? “It would be
naïve not to recognise the perception that he’s there because of me, but the reality is that the two things are independent. I want to be able to look in the mirror and
say that,” says King senior. “For Jordan it’s equally important; he needs to know that he’s there because he deserves it.”
Justin likes to talk about the “tramlines of strategy”,
and how it’s down to his son to stay within those lines as
he continues his journey to the pinnacle of motor racing.
“You set a destination, and you check along the journey
that you’re still within the tramlines. If you set the goal
to be champion and you’re finishing 23rd then you need
to take stock. But so far he’s hitting the targets.
“My proudest moment in motorsport will be seeing
Jordan start his first F1 grand prix. When you’re a parent
your only role, really, is to help your kids achieve whatever their ambitions are.” b
X51 57X
058 Wine 3 Mar 2016_Layout 1 25/02/2016 15:02 Page 1
wine
the
Bottle Opener
Neil Bennett
COSTA
EFFECTIVE
Spanish wine is enjoying an unprecedented period of
quality and affordability – take advantage while it lasts
I
t struck me as I was deciding where to invest
my modest 2016 wine budget, that Spanish
wine is an absolute bargain, at every level.
We would all be mad not to take advantage
of this phenomenon while it lasts. My brainwave was hardly original; none other than
the great wine seer Robert Parker has been
saying as much for years, but it really only strikes home
when you compare Spanish wine prices against their
French or Italian counterparts.
Let me give you some examples. One of my favourite
table wines is Cune’s Rioja Reserva 2011, made with
love and pride by one of the oldest houses in Rioja. Majestic is currently offering this for £9.99 – a comparable
claret would cost two or three times as much. Move up
the price scale and you can buy a 2005 Rioja Alta Gran
Reserva 904, one of the great wines of the region, for
just £33 from Berry Bros. Rioja Alta 904 would grace
even the smartest dinner table – a Burgundy of the
same quality would cost you a mortgage.
If you’re more adventurous, the bargains get even
better. Laithwaites is offering a Grand Reserva, the Palacio del Conde 2008, from Valencia, for only £8.29 a bottle. It’s hard to understand how anyone can be making
a profit from this, given the wine has been aged in barrel for more than three years.
There are great bargains – and impressive quality –
among the whites as well. Regular readers will remember that I am a fan of Albarino, the complex honey and
fruit grape grown in the northeast of
Spain. The Fefinanes Albarino 2014 is one of the
finest examples money
can buy and it will set
you back a mere £13.95
from the Wine Society.
The list goes on.
There are many rea-
sons for this surge of high quality, affordable wines coming from Europe’s southwestern quadrant. The first is
that Spain’s wine industry is undergoing a revolution.
New regions are being explored, new grapes are being
discovered or rediscovered and young wine makers encouraged to try to create something special. This is a fusion between old world know-how and new world
dynamism, as Spanish wine makers look across the Atlantic to the extraordinary achievements of their counterparts in Chile and Argentina over the past two
decades.
Another is economic. Domestic wine consumption
has declined and the country’s wine makers have come
to rely on export markets. Britain is one of those, so we
get the cream of the crop. The Cune Reserva for example was once hard to find in Britain, since most of the
production went straight into Spanish supermarkets.
Today it is easy to find and even easier to drink. Faced
with economic reality, the country’s wine makers are
pricing their products to sell. As a result it is no surprise that Spain has become the world’s biggest wine
exporter as well as its best value one, shipping more
than three billion bottles last year.
That’s not to say you can’t spend if you want to. A
bottle of the legendary Unico from Vega Sicilia will set
you back around £240. Even that is far less than the
most expensive offerings from European counterparts,
especially for a wine famed to last so long you can leave
it to your grandchildren. In fact, that’s another facet of
Spanish wines, they tend to age
well, which means you can take
advantage of today’s prices
and enjoy them in a decade.
My gut feel is that this
opportunity will not last
for ever. These things
never do. Buy now while
stocks last.
58
CGI of balcony
Atlas held the world on his shoulders.
You can take in the news and the views.
MARKETING SUITE NOW OPEN
THE MARKETING SUITE
9TH FLOOR
LINEN COURT
10 EAST ROAD
LONDON N1 6AD
APARTMENTS OF STATUREŤ
Prices from £698ď000*
Visit the marketing suite today
020 7205 4395
TheAtlasBuilding.com
*Prices correct at time of going to print.

Issue 30 - City AM

Transcription

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