Journeys Along the Seventh Ring

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城市漫步北京
英文版 10 月份
国内统一刊号:
CN 11-5232/GO
China Intercontinental Press
ISSN 1672-8025
o c to b e r 2 0 1 4
Journeys Along
the Seventh Ring
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t w i t t e r. c o m / T h a t s _ B e i j i n g
EDITOR’s note
october
When I first arrived in Beijing, I lived between the Fourth and Fifth
Ring Roads. I soon came to view that boundary – both real and imagined – as a powerful signifier of status. Rarely would Chinese friends
ask me where in the city I lived, instead, it was always, ‘which ring are
you in?’ Later, when I moved to Dongcheng – to an apartment within
the Second Ring – those same friends congratulated me. The general
view being that I had moved ‘up’.
The city’s rings, beginning with the walls of the Forbidden City,
maintain a potent grip on the collective psyche of the capital. Over
time, I have come to view these rings as a sort of 21st century Great
Wall, a series of concentric demarcation lines, separating (and segregating) the ‘real’ city from the encroaching sprawl.
Yet unlike the Great Wall, the rings continue to undulate outwards
– pulling rural and suburban outliers into Beijing’s orbit.
On reading of plans to build a so-called ‘Seventh Ring’, my immediate response was a strange mix of incredulity and excitement. Set
to open in 2017, the Ring will stretch the notion of Beijing to its outermost limits. Encompassing an area spanning some 216,000 square
kilometers, the 940-kilometer-long road will increase the city’s population (depending on your definition of city) to 130 million people.
But who are these people, these new ‘Beijingers’? The more I
thought about it, the more I became convinced that we should visit
these places, and find out for ourselves.
w w w. f a c e b o o k . c o m / p a g e s / T h a t s - B e i j i n g
I discussed the idea with Oscar [Holland, Senior Editor] – who
at the time had just returned from a trip to Gansu – he immediately
suggested that rather than simply visiting these towns and villages,
separately, we should travel along the Ring Road itself, preferably on
motorbikes.
The motorbike idea was eventually dropped in favor of a car
(more practical, fits more people, can sleep in it) but the plan itself
continued to evolve. For two months, we researched the area, and
plotted our intended path. In order to follow the Ring’s proposed
route, we would have to navigate a patchwork of small country roads.
To help us with this task, we recruited Huang Xiaohui, the tour bus
driver for Beijing punk band P.K. 14. An expert navigator, Huang –
the sixth and final member of our team – proved invaluable. With
Huang’s help, we devised a week-long route, stopping at nine key
destinations along the way.
Aware of the constraints of such a journey, and the limitations
it placed on our reporting, we decided it would be best framed as a
travelogue. The result is a brief but honest snapshot, capturing something of a world rarely visited by those of us in Beijing’s inner Rings.
We hope to present some of what we collected (including over six
hours of video footage and 1,000 plus images) in an exhibition in the
coming months, but in the meantime, we hope you enjoy this special
edition of our magazine.
Stephen George
Editor-in-Chief
From left to right: Noemi Cassanelli, Stephy Chung, Stephen George, Huang Xiaohui, Karoline Kan and Oscar Holland
w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | o c t o b e r 2 0 1 4 | 3
QUOTE OF THE MONTH
“Highways are the blood
vessels of an economy. I
believe it’s the wisest thing to
invest money in”
47-year-old Ma Hiujin, a truck driver from Sanhe,
Hebei, on the outskirts of Beijing
6 CIT Y
8 TA L ES O F THE C I T Y
Tougher rules for TEFL teachers
in Beijing in latest crackdown
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8 U RBA N D I CT I O N AR Y
Contemporary Chinese made
comprehensible
9 CO N F U C I A N CO U N SE L
Our sage advises an adulterer on
the brink of losing all
9
1 0 L I F E & ST Y L E
1 1 ST Y L E S P OT L I GHT
Janine Grosche, visionary founder
of PATH and Pharrell admirer
1 2 BAGS O F A P P EA L
The best clutches and holdalls for
fall and winter
1 5 SCE N E & HEAR D
Latest trends, fresh openings and
eye-catching collections
11
1 8 ARTS
1 8 m a x at l a r ge
The New York native gets ready
for Halloween
20 The drop
Our man Alex Taggart with the
best of Beijing’s nightlife
2 3 BE I J N G BE - BO P
Shanghai jazz academy JZ School
bring the free form up north
23
4 8 EAT & D R I N K
TEL: 84477002
[email protected]
5 3 TR I BE
Kale smoothies and seven-grain
breads for members of this clan
5 5 A U T U M N BEER F EST
Slow Boat host the inaugural
Autumn Craft Beer Festival
5 8 C U L I A N G RE N J I A
Farmers’ delight of retro dining in
downtown Beijing
55
THE WRAP
24
The new
beijingers?
We plot a course through Hebei around Beijing’s
proposed Seventh Ring Road, visiting the people
and places that lie within its reach
21 ONE NOTE WONDER
Japanese instrumentalists Mono bring
their album tour to Yugong Yishan
22 SKY HIGH
Historic New York festival awaits influential label Modern Sky
THE BUZZ
D ON ‘ T BOTTLE IT
Balance of Power
Students balance half-full water bottles on their heads during
a compulsory military training exercise at the Zhengzhou
Institute of Aeronautical Industry Management. Although
the training drill is only carried out to discourage fidgeting,
the addition of novelty drinking-straw glasses could provide
instant hands-free hydration in the field. Speaking about
the drill, trainer Lok Liao said: “Any student that drops their
bottle will be punished.”
RAN D OM N U MBER
P l ay i n g t h e m a r k e t
The End for Yashow?
...is the weight, in tons, of a block of jade discovered in Liaoning,
thought to be the biggest in existence. ‘The King of Jade’, as it is
known locally, measures three by eight meters at its base and is four
meters tall. The colossal stone’s market value is currently unknown
but reports estimate that it may be capable of boring record numbers
of tourists in a warehouse on the way back from the Ming Tombs.
Beijing officials have announced that all of the
capital’s garment and wholesale markets will be
relocated by 2016, which will most likely include
knock-off treasure troves like Alien Street, Tianyi
and Yashow. The move is believed to be part of a
new strategy to shift low-end industries to Tianjn
and Hebei in order to address overcrowding in
Beijing. Sure, because the waves of shoppers
flocking to Yashow for Tommy Hilfiger’s 2003
button-down shirt range are just unbearable.
b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m
As k a L ao b e i j i n g
Historic Qing Dynasty Bathhouse
in Beijing Forced to Close
We met Duan, a 77-year-old Qianmen resident, as she sat
by her hutong home, talking with her neighbors.
Xinyuan Bathhouse has been scrubbing
dead skin off the backs of grubby Beijingren
for 139 years. Increasingly costly water,
electricity and gas bills, however, have
forced the local institution to shut down.
Located in Xicheng, the venue leaves 90 or
so longstanding regulars looking for a new
place to unwind and bathe. No happy ending
for this massage parlor, then.
What’s the
difference
between
marriage
today and
marriage
when you
were young?
PHOTO BY NOEMI cassanelli
I d o n ’ t wa n t n o s c r u b s
Q u ot e o f t h e M o n t h
“Not only has the 2015
Spring Festival Gala
not been canceled,
but it will be a
fantastic one. CCTV is
getting ready for it and
welcomes everyone’s
advice”
...was the statement from CCTV, after online
rumors began circulating that the world’s
most watched television show might not
be broadcast in 2015. Scant details of the
upcoming show have been released thus far
(perhaps as a result of recent high-profile
arrests of public media figures as part of
the anti-corruption crackdown), which
initially sparked rumors of a cancellation.
The announcement comes as a relief to
countless families who have nothing really to
say to one another, relying on the marathon
screening to get them through an otherwise
torturous New Year’s Eve.
“Some things haven’t changed. For example, a man is
supposed to pay for the wedding and buy the house –
this is the same! But I support making it more flexible
as society develops. These things should depend on the
situation. If the man is short of money and the woman is
well-off, helping the man financially shows her belief in
the relationship. But of course, if the man doesn’t have
financial problems, it’s still his responsibility to pay for
the marriage.
That’s not to say men and women aren’t different. I
believe that there’s a natural division between the sexes
– women are able to give birth to the next generation,
while men are better at providing a good living
environment for the family. It makes sense.
Of course, things have changed a lot in terms of
women’s attitudes towards material things. When I
was young, girls never complained about money. Our
marriages were much purer. It was about the men we
wanted to marry rather than the houses and cars. Now
too many girls won't even look twice at a guy unless he
has an apartment and a car – where’s the romance?
Our whole society is like that. It’s so competitive.
If one girl marries a guy with a house, other girls will
become jealous. Imagine telling your friends and family
that you found a husband who has no money, isn’t
successful and can’t support you? People would think
less of you as a result.
Back in our day, everyone was poor. When I got
married in 1963, I didn’t receive any gifts at all. But I
did not feel sad. In Chairman Mao’s time, women were
educated ‘to hold half the sky’. We believed it was
shameful to depend on men and to be material, which
could have been seen as pursuing a capitalist lifestyle.”
As told to Karoline Kan
ci t y | ta les
TALES
OF THE
CITY
Strict New Rules for
Foreign Teachers in
the Capital
Beijing’s underage and under-qualified teachers may soon
have more to worry about than grading their students’
homework. The city’s municipal government has tightened
requirements for foreigners working in the capital, with
particularly stringent new measures for teachers, according
to the People’s Daily.
Beginning October 31, foreign English teachers must
have five years of relevant experience, no criminal record
and the name of their employer specified on their work
documents. The new rules stipulate they must also possess
a Teaching English as a Foreign Language (TEFL) certificate,
most of which require a month’s professional training.
The lazy days of Beijing’s ‘white guy in a tie’ appear
to be coming to a close. Schools may actually have to hire
teachers based on their qualifications alone – not, in some
cases, just by their skin color or nationality, according to
Eric Winder, CEO of beijingteach.com.
“But this is still China and as much as things are
changing, have changed and will continue to change, the
simple fact is that this country runs on guanxi,” he said.
“There’s only an ever-increasing demand for English
teachers, while regulators will be hard-pressed to stop
what actually happens on the ground.”
Such actions includes a number of infamous cases
involving a minority of foreign teachers in China, including
pedophilia and sexual assaults. Last year, That’s Beijing
helped break the story of Neil Robinson, a teacher working
in Beijing who was wanted by police in his native UK for a
string of sex offence charges. He was extradited and jailed
for 12 years in January this year.
In the months that followed, the government issued
tougher visa laws making criminal background checks
mandatory. Arrest and deportation rates have nearly
doubled since 2012. With English teaching in China
particularly popular among recent graduates and hardened
reprobates alike, the need for five years’ relevant teaching
experience looks set to diminish the field of suitable
candidates. Nona Tepper
XIAO XIAN ROU
/xiăo xian ròu/
小鲜肉
by M i a L i
Definition: n. somebody who is young and inexperienced, but
hungry for success. Also used to describe someone youthful and
innocent, but desirable by older members of the opposite sex.
How to use it:
A: I remember when Justin Bieber was hot.
B: What a piece of xiao xian rou he was. Now he is a dense chunk of
chewed up beef.
A: What the Chinese soccer team really needs is 11 xiao xian rous.
B: I agree! The current team is hopeless. We could use a fresh new start.
China is known for its food and the Chinese are known for their food
analogies. No expression better demonstrates the nation’s infinite appetite
for life than xiao xian rou. Literally meaning ‘little fresh meat’, xiao xian rou
paints a picture of a small cube of sizzling juicy beef. But it in fact refers
to something more desirable: the young, fearless, successful and – most
importantly – enviably good-looking.
Xiao xian rou are the hottest new movie stars and filmmakers. They are
breakout athletes with muscled frames plastered across city billboards. They
are artists with six-figure price tags and seven-figure homes. They are tech
entrepreneurs who made millions in their own bedrooms.
Of course, the flavor of xiao xian rou can vary, depending on what dishes
you like. The hottest pop stars are called xiao xian la ji (‘little fresh spicy
chickens’); while this week’s new K-pop boy band sensation is xiao xian
ren shen ji (‘little fresh ginseng chicken’). Grease up the frying pan of lexical
creativity and devise your own.
While the English-language expression ‘fresh meat’ is more passive,
emphasizing a young target’s suitability to be on the receiving end of
a practical joke or sexual advance, xiao xian rou implies a much more
perceptive package. A xiao xian rou might be emotionally inexperienced,
but they are far from ignorant. They know what they want and have been
waiting for years for their turn to go out and get it. I’m not saying they are
gold-diggers, but they ain’t messin’ with no coal miners.
Yet, in keeping with the English expression’s more lecherous
connotations, xiao xian rou is increasingly used by older women to describe
young men – probably due to the lack of words objectifying men. These days,
Chinese women aren’t afraid to let everyone know what makes their mouth
water. They talk about picking up fresh-faced young men with the same ease
that they shop for a fresh cut of lamb at the market.
mia li is a news reporter in beijing by day; at night, she tries to turn that news into standup
comedy.
WWC D | c i t y
What Would confucius do?
Modern Dilemmas, Age-Old Wisdom
“I recently started an affair with a man who is in a long-term relationship and has two children.
Before I met him, I had also been in a long-term relationship which I decided to end to prove to
my new lover I was serious. But since then, my new partner has blocked me from all forms of
contact. Have I done the wrong thing, and is there anything I can do to save either relationship?
My Dear Friend – the first item in the most
ancient Chinese poem collection, The Book
of Songs, is about a young man who falls
in love with a girl who he meets once and
never sees again. He misses her so much
that he can’t sleep and is compelled to write
a masterful poem professing his love and
suffering. Confucius later read it, observing
that love should “start from attraction and
end before it crosses the line.”
Currently, you are wandering around
the ‘line’, which Confucius meant as the line
separating morality from immorality. What
is morality? Let’s learn from the actions of
the philosopher himself.
In 496 B.C., Duke Ling of the state
of Wei married Nanzi, a woman whose
promiscuous past had sullied her
reputation. Before Confucius visited this
Kingdom, he was told that the Duke and
Nanzi would both receive him. Confucius’
student Zilu was worried that the meeting
would damage his teacher’s reputation.
Confucius told him: “I will obey the
principle of morality. If what I do is wrong,
the Gods will punish me.” So when he met
the Duke’s wife, he requested that a physical
screen be placed between them. This way,
he was able to politely accept the king’s
meeting and, at the same, time avoid any
rumors that might stain his reputation.
Although his actions seem drastic, the
principles that hold true today originate
from such beliefs. Self-cultivation, building
a family, developing the nation and creating
a peaceful world are the pursuits of
every traditional Chinese intellectual. An
extramarital affair is definitely something
that Confucius was against.
An old Chinese saying goes: “emotion
is as hard to control as a flowing river”. I
suppose you could not resist such attraction.
But you have done well to end the first
relationship, while he has done well to block
you. So why not just let it go? You would
regret it either way, but which do you prefer
– doing the right thing then regretting it or
doing a bad thing then regretting it? I know
you are brave and Confucius says: “brave
people are never afraid.”
wang Xuejun is a lecturer at beijing language and
culture University, specializing in chinese culture.
his most recent book is entitled teaching methods
of chinese language and traditional culture . send
your ethical dilemma for Professor wang to bjeditor@
urbanatomy.com
style radar
LIFE & STYLE
Cov e t
Mr Mustachio
Made in China
Chinese Underpinnings
Mustache-themed parties – where
people stick ‘taches to their upper
lips to unleash their inner Mario
– are the epitome of a hair-raising
good time these days. Chinese label
Simple Mills has moved beyond
conventional sticky whiskers to
make some seriously hip wooden
numbers. This classier mo’ will also
keep your face free of any adhesive
gumminess. RMB15.
> available at Kodo, 190 gulou dongdajie,
dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街190号
Eco Goodness
Aussie green pioneers Eco &
More is our go-to brand for locally
produced, chemical free toiletries
and household items. Its travel pack,
which features shampoo, conditioner,
lotion and body wash, is compact,
lightweight and, more importantly,
100 percent plant-based. RMB95.
> available at a spoonful of sugar, 59 tieshu
xie Jie, xicheng 西城区铁树斜街59号
(6308 3971)
1 0 | o c t o b e r 2 0 1 4 | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m
The clothes that are seen the least say the most
about us. We wouldn’t go so far as to say a
woman’s panty drawer is a window to her soul
but it certainly says something about her life.
So investing in a good selection of
underpinnings should be high on your priority
list. Lovely underwear not only makes you
feel good, but it can also help the rest of your
garments look better. And no-one wants to be let
down, quite literally, by a bad bra.
Enter Beijing lingerie label Pillowbook,
the brainchild of Taiwan-born, New Yorkeducated Irene Lu. The brand takes its name
from traditional Chinese ‘pillow books’ –
titillating works of art given to young brides that
contained sketches of erotic positions.
With such inspiration it is no surprise
that this is underwear that begs to be
admired. Pillowbook’s buttery soft pieces
are versatile, discreetly sexy and – most
importantly – work around different body
shapes.
After stints with big lingerie names like
Kiki de Montparnasse, Oscar de la Renta and
Playboy Lingerie (before setting up shop in
a hutong by the Lama Temple), Lu refuses to
use artificial padding for her bras. Instead she
applies braiding or Chantilly lace onto satin or
silk triangles.
She also custom-makes modern
interpretations of the dudou – an ancient
undergarment resembling a modern-day
camisole – which can be worn like a backless
halter-top. With her latest collection, they can
even be used as a light summer wrap for babies.
Each Pillowbook item is handcrafted by Mrs
Yin, a Shandong-born seamstress with ten years’
experience under her belt. The range extends to
bespoke wedding lingerie and oh-so-covetable
accessories for the bedroom.
If you can’t remember the last time you
went shopping for underwear, get yourself fitted
out at this little gem of a showroom. Every good
outfit begins with the unmentionables – they’re
not called “foundation garments” for nothing.
> beixing hutong, dongcheng 东城区北行胡同;
by appointment only (www.love-pillowbook.com).
Until october 5, pillowbook is participating in bJdw with
mondudou project, in collaboration with brand new china
(bnc).
ov e r h e a r d
“ Yo u ’ r e s o yo u t h f u l ,
b u t w h at is to b e d o n e
a b o u t t h e p i m p les o n
yo u r fac e ? ”
That’s the philosophical question posed by POCO, a new Chinese app that takes heavily edited (and
somewhat disarming) portraits with its ‘beauty camera’.
As well as transforming ‘disappointing’ regular faces into doll-like, porcelain masterpieces, the
app also allows users to add huge eyelashes, anime-style makeup and even reshaped chins. The final
results – unrecognizable fantasy images – can be uploaded onto social media with the tap of a screen.
Creepy much?
Ed i t e d by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i /
S p ot l i g h t
Janine Grosche, founder
and creative director of
PATH
Tell us a bit about your
background.
I’m from Germany and studied
Fashion Design at [the fashion
school] ESMOD in Berlin, where
I specialized in menswear. After
working in Berlin for several labels I
was offered a designer job in Beijing.
I obviously took it straight away and
moved here.
I’ve been in Beijing for four
years now, and launched my own
menswear label, PATH, in 2012.
Under the lens
Baidu Glasses
Move over Google Glass – Baidu Eye
is what cool tech is all about this
season.
After a year of speculation,
the Chinese company unveiled its
answer to Google Glass last month,
presenting what we think is a rather
hot-looking gadget at the Baidu
World conference in Beijing.
Unlike its better known rival,
Baidu Eye sends visual information
to the user’s mobile device, making
it “easier to browse than on a small,
mounted screen.”
The working prototype is also
visually different from Glass – it
wraps around the back of the head
with a camera on one side and an
earpiece on the other. It doesn’t go
across the face, which means that a)
it’s a lot less goofy-looking than its
American counterpart and b) Baidu
won’t have to enlist fashion names
like Diane von Furstenberg (who
designed a range of Google frames)
to try to make it hip.
Expect these specs to give the US
giant a run for its money.
How does Beijing compare to
Berlin?
Berlin and Beijing are very much
alike. They are both cities with
contrasts and both have art and
creativity aplenty.
Of course, Beijing is still growing.
There is still so much room for
development and that’s also the case
for its fashion scene. That’s what
makes it interesting.
What drew you to menswear?
I’ve always been interested in
menswear – to me, it’s a spectrum
that has yet to be fully exploited.
I love to focus on new and
modern lines and shapes. Menswear
allows me to do that. I can revisit
classic pieces in unexpected ways
using new fabrics, unique prints,
individual cuts and proportions.
Why the name ‘PATH’?
PATH is a synonym for ‘way’: it
represents the past, the present and
the future.
The label is all about reinventing
menswear by pushing boundaries
and presenting a different image of
masculinity.
What inspired your fall/winter
collection?
My approach to design is about
looking past traditional notions of
men’s fashion, focusing instead on
new fabrics, new prints and new
silhouettes.
It’s hard to pinpoint a particular source of inspiration
but there is definitely a sportswear influence in my fall/
winter 2014 collection.
I’ve drawn ideas from motocross and cycling, but also
from 90s silhouettes I remember from my childhood.
As for the color range, I’ve opted for a bright palette to
survive the greyness of winter. I’ve used a lot of orange
and royal blue in futuristic-looking digital prints. The
entire collection has a somewhat visionary tone.
Is there an iconic figure from either the past or the
present you would like to dress?
Pharrell Williams would be a fun one.
Your aesthetic in three words.
Sport-luxe, experimental, voluminous.
Worst fashion faux pas?
I think there are no longer any. Even combining white
socks with black slippers – which I think is pretty horrific
– became a huge trend this summer.
How has Beijing influenced your style?
Beijing, and China in general, have influenced my style in
the sense that I’ve started integrating Chinese characters
in my prints. I usually choose a word related to the theme
of my collection. For fall/ winter, for instance, I am using
未来 (weilai) – ‘future’.
What’s your favorite trend for men’s fashion this fall?
Outsized silhouettes, from sweaters to coats. And the fact
that there is a lot of color instead of just black, although I
love black.
Fashion is…
Unlimited.
w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | o c t o b e r 2 0 1 4 | 1 1
life & style | F a s h i o n
Excess baggage
Tot e s C l u t c h i n g a t Ho l d a l l s
by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i
Bold clutches, modern backpacks, embellished totes –
this season is all about statement accessories. We’ve
rounded up the best and busiest bags of the season that
you’ll want to grab hold of – from bargain to blowout.
Take your pick and add them to your fall wish list.
1 . S h a p e s h ifte r
COS relaxed shoulder bag, RMB350.
> www.cosstores.com
2. A pop of color
Reveries multi-purpose shoulder bag, RMB1,280.
> elleshop.com.cn
3 . L i g h te n u p
H&M bucket bag, RMB399.
> www.hm.com
4 . M a j o r m et a lli c s
Pull&Bear oversized wallet, RMB119.
①
②
①
③
②
④
③
1 . Cl a ssi c S h a p e
Zara, tricolor bowling bag, RMB599.
> www.zara.cn
2. Edgy rucksack
Topshop suede duffle backpack, RMB645.
> www.topshop.com
3 . Cl u t c h it
Rafe Handbags snakeskin clutch, RMB665.
> en.zooq.com
4 . N E W S HAP E S
Plore fold rock bag, RMB4,250.
> www.pullandbear.com
> www.xinlelu.com
④
f a s h i o n | life & style
1 . Hi p ste r style
Fjallraven no 21 medium backpack, RMB1,785.69.
> www.asos.com
2 . Cl a ssi c g o o d l o o k s
H&M leather messenger bag, RMB999.
> www.hm.com
3 . Pe r fe c t c o m m u te r
NLGX recycled paper wool backpack, RMB350.
> www.nlgxdesign.com
4. H a nds on
Billy Kirk buckled dopp kit, RMB1,080.
> shop.projectaegis.com
①
①
②
②
③
③
④
④
1 . Wee k e n d e r
COS canvas weekend bag, RMB990.
> www.cosstores.com
2. Sport casual
Zara Man combined sport bowling bag, RMB499.
> www.zara.cn
3 . Pl u m j o b
H&M bucket bag, RMB399.
> www.hm.com
4 . We r k w e r k w e r k
Billy Kirk padded zippered briefcase. RMB2,980.
> shop.projectaegis.com
life & style | P. O . C
Portrait
of
China
Yi Ye | 27
“I really like vintage clothes from Europe
and the US. I think they’re pretty cool.
They make me feel quite stylish – like I’m
from a different world.”
“I’m not from Beijing but I love coming
here to go shopping. My hometown
doesn’t have that much choice in terms
of nice fashion.”
“I would like to open my own vintage
shop one day. I would import clothes
from London or Paris. What I really want
is to visit those cities myself, though.
That’s my biggest dream. ”
By Marianna Cerini / Photo by Noemi Cassanelli
ARRIVALS | life & style
Scene &
Heard
by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i
4
3
2
1
② V e ga Z a i s h i Wa n g
① Ko d o
The style phenomenon of Zakka
– or ‘various things’ in Japanese
– tries to find beauty in the
mundane. Its aesthetic leans
toward kitsch, retro or cute
objects that are full of hidden
meaning for the owner.
In Beijing, the trend has
become as ubiquitous as
beards in East London. Across
Dongcheng, cutesy ventures have
taken over former convenience
stores and baozi shops,
cramming their shelves with
playful, useless and, on occasion,
utterly brilliant knick-knacks.
Kodo is one such shop.
While the second and third
floors offer coffee and a terrace
with excellent views over Gulou,
the ground level space is filled
with a jumble of items – from
kitchenware and stationery to
cushions, bags and candles.
Unlike many of its
competitors, Kodo’s selection of
design products and other funky
little items is actually worth a
browse, especially if you’re after
that perfect gift idea.
One of the darlings of China’s
fashion pack, Vega Zaishi
Wang always enchants with
her referential collections. Her
inspirations have spanned
themes as diverse as the ancient
kingdom of Loulan and Alpha
Lyrae, the fifth brightest star in
the night sky.
For fall/winter 2014, the
Beijing-based designer looks to
the Reindeer People – herders
who have roamed northern
Mongolia for thousands of years.
The result is a heavily masculine
collection, featuring winter
staples like long checked blazers
and dress pants.
The palette of deep blue and
black, often embellished with
leather trims or fur details, gives
the range a cohesive, grownup aesthetic. Somber hues are
juxtaposed with the occasional
flash of vibrant red to represent
“the sacrifice that reindeers have
made for [their] owners.”
This sharply tailored
ensemble of garments heralds a
new level of maturity from the
designer.
Maria Luisa Poumaillou first
made her name 26 years ago,
when she launched one the most
influential fashion boutiques
in the world. She has since
been a French fashion fixture,
opening several offshoots of her
eponymous store around Paris.
The legendary buyer has
now set her eyes on the Chinese
market. In March, she opened
a store in Shanghai and, as of
this month, her multi-brand
retailer can be found in Beijing’s
Taikoo Li North. Its sleek,
monochromatic space carries a
cluster of luxury brands aimed at
Chinese consumers, from Cedric
Charlier and Christopher Kane to
Erdem, Jonathon Saunders, Raf
Simons and Roland Mouret.
Some 40 more stores are
planned to open across the
country within the next three
years, so expect Maria Luisa to
become a regular presence in
China’s shopping scene.
> 63 yanyue hutong, dongsi nandajie,
> 19 sanlitun lu, n4-15a taikoo li
> 190 gulou dongdajie, dongcheng 东城
dongcheng 东城区东四南大街演乐胡同
sanlitun north, chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯
区鼓楼东大街190号
63号 (6512 1377, www.vegazaishiwang.
路19号太古里三里屯北区n4-15a
com, vegazaishiwang.taobao.com)
④ Bu b b l e M o o d
③ M a r i a Lu i sa
Despite its playful name, there’s
something almost sultry about
Bubble Mood’s fall/winter
collection. The Shanghai-based
brand, known for silk Japanese
kimonos and French flair, has
opted for a dark, romantic range
of colors this season. Gray,
oxblood and black create an
aesthetic that is sober and fluid,
both versatile and chic.
Founder and designer Olivia
Gurdjan travels extensively
around Asia seeking fabrics
and prints to integrate into
her garments, with the aim of
creating “a flagship piece that
would be at the crossroads
between Japan and Paris.”
The range on offer reflects
this eclectic aspiration. Each
item conjures images of exotic
people and places, weaving
Thai, Indonesian, Japanese and
Chinese lines together with
European graphics and details.
Perfect for dressed up or
down, and needing very little
accessorizing (if any at all), these
are effortlessly easy staples to
stock in your wardrobe.
> www.bubble-mood.com
life & style | h o t e l s
Home away from Home
The Sandalwood Beijing, Marriott Executive Apartments
With over 35 years’ experience in the
service industry and a familiarity with
Beijing that outlasts many (his first visit
from his native Hong Kong was in 1986)
Vincent Leung has brought a pair of safe
hands to The Sandalwood Beijing, Marriott
Executive Apartments. And – as he’s keen
to tell us – in that time he’s coped with the
kind of events that you just can’t foresee
when you’re starting out.
“I remember the SARS outbreak [of 200203], which was a terrible time for the
industry. We had barely a single guest in the
hotel I was posted in.” But he learnt from
that incident – where there was genuine fear
for the future of his business and livelihood
– that such situations tend to rectify
themselves with the right management. “You
have to be patient and think of the longterm perspective. I’m still learning new
things about my job even now.”
So after years in a stressful industry
requiring constant relocation, his
appointment at The Sandalwood – a
spacious, relaxed, family-orientated
serviced complex away from the bustle
of Beijing – seems like just reward for
such endurance. Situated in Beijing’s
Central Business District, within walking
distance to the abundant green space of
Xinglong Park, it makes it an ideal haven
for executives and their families seeking
a balanced and rewarding lifestyle in
Beijing. Regular shuttle buses run daily to
local supermarkets and weekdays to the
CBD and BDA. The site is named for the
neighboring Red Sandalwood Museum, the
first and largest private museum in China
specializing in red sandalwood works of art
and furniture.
“Yes, these serviced apartments have a
more relaxed feel than a hotel, but earning
the trust of our long term guest requires
special effort,” Leung adds. “Many guests
don’t just stay here, they live here.” He
tells me that one of the strengths of The
Sandalwood is its security, a great selling
point for families. The site has 168 stylish
apartments, ranging from comfortable
single bedroom units to spacious – as big as
286 sqm – three-bedroom homes. They all
come with essentials like wireless Internet,
24-hour assistance, minimum twice-weekly
housekeeping, home grocery delivery
service and parking on site. Amenities
include a 24-hour fitness center, indoor pool
and children’s play area.
Such serenity, Mr. Leung tells us, allows
him time to relax with the guests and revel
in the community aspect of the apartments.
“We had a garden BBQ with all the guests
last month,” he says. “But as a football
fan, the highlight of my summer was the
World Cup. We have many German families
living here and watching it with them was
incredible.”
the sandalwood beijing, marriott executive apartments;
23 Jianguo lu, chaoyang 朝阳区建国路23号 (8557 8888;
www.marriott.com/bjssw)
GLOBAL SERVICE, LOCAL TOUCH
Capital Hospitality at Lee Garden Service Apartment
With management roles in the capital’s
international hospitality industry often
dominated by imported talent, it is
refreshing to meet a Beijinger in one
of the top jobs. With over 30 years’
experience working in hotels and luxury
accommodation, it is difficult to imagine
anyone with a better knowledge about
the needs of the city’s guests than General
Manager of Lee Garden Service Apartments,
James Tian.
“When you’re a native Beijinger you
know the culture, you know the customs,
you know the people and you know the city,”
he explains. “I’m very open and I like talking
and meeting with people, so I’m very happy
to be in my home town, welcoming guests
from all over the world.”
After beginning his hotel career in
the early 1980s – when Beijing had few
international hotels and only a smattering
of joint ventures – Tian has worked his way
up to the top through roles in sales and
marketing. He made the move from hotels
to serviced apartments in 2008, which
brought about a self-professed “change in
mindset.”
“Staying in a hotel and staying in a
serviced apartment is quite different,” he
says. “Hotel visits are often temporary,
transit stops, but if you’re on a long-term
stay in an apartment then this is your home.
We understand how our guests like their
room – the furniture, the cleaning times,
the pillows, everything – we have to focus
on every little detail. It’s all personalized.
Taking care of guests is like a family thing.”
Having taken the role in June 2014, Tian
arrives at an exciting time for the residence.
This new era for Lee Garden has seen an
overhaul of its offering, which – in addition
to around 200 rooms – features a fitness
centre, a spacious dance studio, indoor
swimming pool and children’s playground.
“We spent nearly 280 million yuan
completely renovating the property,” he
reveals. “We’ve completely changed the
kitchens which now all feature modern
equipment, we’ve enlarged the room space
for storage, and the lobby and public areas
are completely new. There’s been a lot of
investment in the environmental set up
and you can see the mixture of Chinese and
Western styles.”
But despite the improvements to
‘hardware’, Tian is keen to stress that it is
people that make a difference in hospitality.
“My team is focused on our guests’
convenience and experience. Our front desk
knows each guest – where they’re from,
their hobbies, their schedule – so we can
ensure they really get that ‘home away from
home’ feeling.”
lee garden service apartment 18 goldfish lane,
wangfujing, dongcheng 东城区王府井金鱼胡同十八号
(6525 8855)
h o t e l s | life & style
The Astor Hotel, A Luxury
Collection Hotel, Tianjin
When it comes to hotels in Tianjin – maybe
even all of China – few can compete with
the heritage and history of The Astor
Hotel, A Luxury Collection Hotel. The first
international hotel in all of China, built in
the former British concession in 1863, it
was the focal point for modern Tianjin’s
development and the meeting point for
some of the most important people to have
trodden ground China.
As we take in our surroundings, from
the airy Victorian Lounge atrium to the cozy
O’Hara bar, we realize a night spent here is
less a night in a 5-star luxury hotel, more
a night spent in a 5-star luxury museum.
Simple actions we would otherwise take
for granted take on a special meaning here.
Picking up the phone and ordering room
service, for example, we remember that this
was actually the first hotel in China to even
have a telephone, first installed in 1877. As
we take the restored 1924 OTIS elevator in
the heritage wing – the very first elevator in
a public building in China – we realize this is
the same elevator former Chinese Premier
Zhou Enlai would have taken up to his room,
social media
when he stayed here in 1957.
For the quintessential Astor experience,
we decide a room in the heritage wing is
a must. The oldest wing of the hotel, the
rooms were restored in 2010 to their former
19th century glory, and are decorated with
Murano glass chandeliers, floor-length silk
draperies, and a four-poster canopy bed, as
would have been de rigeur for Sun Yat-sen
and Herbert Hoover when they stayed at the
turn of the century. The parquet floor wood
paneling is all original we’re told; the TV
screen in the bathroom mirror and the highspeed wireless internet, we suspect, came
considerably later.
One advantage to staying in the
heritage wing is the proximity to the Astor’s
museum, which provides a quite detailed
look into the history of the hotel in Tianjin
society. It’s also where O’Hara’s Englishstyle pub and lounge can be found – which
is where we sink into a Winchester leather
sofa with a glass of scotch after a hard
day’s voyaging. A hotel should be a place to
unwind after all – just ask last emperor Pu
Yi, who frequented the Astor’s ballrooms to
dance with his wife.
the astor hotel, a luxury collection hotel, tianjin; 33 taier
Zhuang road, heping district, tianjin
天津市和平区台儿庄路33号利顺德大饭店豪华精选酒店
(022 2331 1688)
facebook.com/thatsbeijing
BE CONNECTED
twitter.com/thats_beijing
thatsmags.com/beijing
collage
W h at ’ s n e w
The Tonight Show has been revitalized under
Saturday Night Live alumni Jimmy Fallon.
The perpetually nice host has created a
surreal world where celebrities battle each
other at charades, Britney Spears discusses
the pros and cons of dating her, and ‘Neil
Young’ covers pop hits like Iggy Azalea’s
‘Fancy’. Available exclusively on Iqiyi.com.
Chinese criminal justice expert He Jiahong
also doubles as a writer with his debut
Hanging Devils making the Guardian’s top
10 Asian crime novels list. He’s back with
Black Holes which follows lawyer Hong
Jun investigating a corporate fraud case
and unveiling a web of secrets dating back
to the start of the Cultural Revolution.
Available on Amazon.
The darling couple of Maybe Mars
release their third album on October 13.
Label head and P.K. 14 frontman Yang
Haisong teams up with his wife Sun Xia,
the group’s former bassist, to form Dear
Eloise. The duo mix guitar feedback with
poetic lyrics and Farewell to the Summer
is their most melodic to date. Available at
downloads.maybemars.org.
Drumroll
DJ Max atLarge
You’re called Max atLarge. Are you on the
lam? And if so, how long have you been
on the run for?
About six years now! That 9-to-5 prison was
a tough one to break away from.
You’re playing Parnas’ Halloween Party –
what’s on your Halloween playlist?
For sure I’ll play ‘They Came at Night’ by
Daniel Maloso and the Quinten 909 remix of
‘Spooky’ by Dusty Springfield. And of course
no Halloween party would be complete
without Michael Jackson’s ‘Thriller’.
Where’s the scariest place you’ve ever
DJ’ed? (and why?)
My bedroom. There wasn’t a soul in sight
and it felt like a trap!
Parnas is well known for its big, lavishlythemed parties – how will this one differ
and what should we expect?
Well this time around we have two weeks
of Halloween. On October 25 we have
Alejandro Paz (Cómeme Records) playing
at our Masquerade Ball and on the 31 we’re
having the Halloween edition of Tropical
Disco.
As a man who is ‘at large’ you must
have some good tips on how to disguise
yourself. What’s your best (and worst)
Halloween costume?
I once won a bottle of tequila for dressing
as an iPod dancing shadow. And I would
say any costume that comes in a bag is the
worst costume.
We’ve heard some highly-questionable
rumors that Sanlitun is built on the site
of an ancient Taoist burial ground. Have
you ever met any ghosts or spirits in
Parnas?
No ghosts, but I’ve seen some scary-looking
people when the lights come on!
> oct 25 & oct 31; Parnas (see listings for details)
TRANSCR I P TE D
H ao B u H ao
“Everyone I know has an
entourage – including
the people in my
entourage, and my dogs”
Mariah Carey, who plays in Beijing this month, struggles
to get to the bottom of her reputation as a diva.
> oct 10; 7.30pm; rmb280-1,280 beijing workers stadium, gongti bei
lu, chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路
Hao
It took 26 years, but The Simpsons
has officially made it to the Mainland.
Sohu has finalized a deal to bring
the animated classic to its streaming
services, exposing the country to the
antics of Homer, Bart and company.
Executive producer Al Jean was so
excited he blurted out “Woo hoo! Now
we can reveal Shanghai is actually in
Guangdong Province.”
Bu Hao
Talk about mixed messages. After
years of self-regulation, China’s videostreaming services have increasingly
caught the eye of officials. First The
Big Bang Theory went down and now
state regulator SAPPRFT is hinting at
a future cap limiting foreign content
to 30 percent of content available on
services like Sohu and Youku.
C a n vas s e d
Carcass
“Lock up your daughters,
your mothers, your
grandmothers and in the
case of Carcass – your dead
grandmothers”
> Jeff walker, of english metal
legends carcass (pictured here
having a nice cup of tea) tells fans
what to expect during a recent
tour. find out whether the band –
whose songs include ‘swarming
vulgar mass of Infected virulency’
and ‘corporal Jigsore Quandary’
– bring the same level of carnage
to beijing this month; oct 9; 8pm;
rmb380 (door), rmb300 (presale);
Yugong Yishan (see listings for
details)
ARTS | Undergound
the drop
Beats, Blops
and Breaks
by A l e x Ta g g a r t
Ohmahdayyyyz! Without exaggeration,
September was the most packed month of
electronic music events I’ve seen since arriving
in Beijing 5 years ago. The nights lived up to the
hype but the October comedown allows time
for reflection: while underground promoters
are undoubtedly stepping their game up, with
more ambitious events and world-class promo,
it can sometimes feel like everyone’s getting
a little ahead of themselves. After all, a scene
isn’t just a group of DJs and promoters – it’s
a community of die-hard punters who go to
the shows every weekend. Right now, that
community is still not large enough to support
three or four big events on a single night – it
seems everyone’s trying to impress each other,
rather than recruiting new ravers.
With that in mind, here are a couple of
events that go against the grain this month.
I recently rediscovered DJ Wordy’s Hotpot
nights, having not been to one since they were
in The Opposite House basement a few years
back. They’re currently killing it at Migas –
DJs Wordy, Wes and Soulspeak, with Crash
on the mic, are possibly the ballsiest crew on
the circuit right now. I’ve seen them throw
down some of the most anti-Migas tunes I
can imagine, and the dancefloor still goes off.
That’s like playing Pitbull in Dada, or anything
other than Pitbull at Elements. It’s no hipster
w*nkfest either – Wordy and crew know how to
educate a mainstream crowd without alienating
them, so expect a touch of EDM and the odd
chart remix in there alongside hip-hop, trap,
dubstep, footwork and drum ‘n’ bass. All things
considered, this is an excellent opportunity to
get...ahem…turn’t up. Yes. Quite. Skank out to
this on October 10.
Speaking of being deliberately challenging,
here’s a…hmm, I was about to call it a party, but
I got a mental image of the organizers clawing
my eyes out. This year marks the third edition
of Sinotronics’ Beijing Electronic Music
Encounter, a series of, er…events that aim to
undermine everything you thought you knew
about electronic music. There’s a whole list of…
meet-ups on the agenda, ranging from beardstrokey experimental salons to beard-shakey
club nights.
The first major date on the program, at
Dada on October 24, features a live set from
FM3, inventors of possibly the world’s best
Buddhist music box (literally a little box with a
speaker that loops Buddhist chants – Google it).
No idea what they’ll be playing – which is kind
of the point – but this one is about “building
a bridge to the unknown,” so open your mind
reeeeal wide.
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f e a t u r e | a rts
Monochrome Nights
Japanese Instrumentalists Mono Take Their
New Album on the Road
“I was feeling a darkness that wasn’t
about sadness, but more about anger and
suffering. Like an endless disappointment
or an uncontrollable despair”
by A n d re w C h i n
The music of Mono – perhaps the most
influential band to have emerged from
Japan’s post rock scene – has long skirted
a line between despair and euphoria,
nowhere more so, perhaps, than on their
new double release, The Last Dawn/Rays of
Darkness.
“The two albums ended up representing
the counterpoints of life,” guitarist and
group leader Takaakira ‘Taka’ Goto explains.
“Light and darkness, hope and helplessness,
love and loss, the emotions which can’t be
expressed, pain which you can’t put into
words, happiness which you can’t simply
measure.”
Set for release in late October, Taka
admits the group had no intention of
recording two albums. Describing them
as exact opposites, the discs capture the
emotional extremes he went through while
writing the group’s follow-up to their sixth
album, 2012’s For My Parents.
“I was feeling a darkness that wasn’t
about sadness, but more about anger and
suffering. Like an endless disappointment
or an uncontrollable despair,” he says.
Billed as Mono’s blackest album, Rays
of Darkness is a foreboding collection of
scorching riffs, ominous drones and doom
rhythms. Initially beguiled by what he had
written, Taka admits it took time for him
to become comfortable with songs that he
describes as representing his dark side.
“We gradually accepted the chaos
wrapped in this negativity and really
wanted to express that to the world as art,”
he says. Writing those songs took it’s toll
however, with Taka admitting its darkness
seeped into his daily life. “My feelings
were very rebellious without thoughts,” he
recalls. “It was almost as though I had sold
my soul to hell.”
To fight off the feeling, he began writing
a new set of distinctly different songs as
an emotional outlet. He also changed his
lifestyle, writing these songs during the day
rather than his preferred late night sessions.
Collected on The Last Dawn, Taka
describes the tracks as “medicine for myself
just to live through everyday life,” and
summarizes the album as “about escaping
from darkness and seeking the light.”
Recorded simultaneously this May in
Pennsylvania, both discs capture Mono at
their most forthright and an effort to “leave
the chaotic ones as chaotic as possible
and make the positive ones as positive as
possible.”
While guests like Envy’s Tetsu Fukagawa
and Calexico’s Jacob Valenzuela pop up,
the new album ditches the orchestral
accoutrements the group has been praised
for on albums like 2009’s majestic Hymn
to the Immortal Wind, as well as their 10th
anniversary concerts across the world with
the 25-member Wordless Music Orchestra.
“We wanted to go back to the
straightforward approach of expressing
everything as a four-piece group and
expand the possibilities of guitar music,”
Taka says, recalling how he started the
group with drummer Yasunori Takada,
bassist Tamaki Kunishi and guitarist Hideki
“Yoda” Suematsu at a time when Toyko was
entranced by electronic music.
“The original idea was to create a
massive sound like My Bloody Valentine
with ten Marshall amps; a beautiful yet
extreme sound that could almost shake the
roof. We want to create that wall-crashing
sound like we used to back in the day.”
rmb180-220; 9pm, oct 17; Yugong Yishan (see listings
for details)
A R T S | fe at ure
Modern
Sky Goes
Global
Meet the Mainland’s First
Modern Music Mogul
“Why shouldn’t there be a
company from China on
a global stage for music
entertainment?”
This year has been one of expansion for
the mighty Modern Sky empire. They’ve
organized over 20 festivals across the
Mainland, with Strawberry Music Festival
arriving in cities such as Xiamen and Dali,
while this month the Modern Sky Festival
brand ventures abroad for the first time to
New York’s Central Park. On a less visible
plain, though, their artist’s songs have
also reached an increasing number of
mainstream ears, being covered on popular
singing competition shows like Super Boy.
How bright does the future look for Modern
Sky?
“Soon, Chinese bands will become
like Japanese bands and appeal to a small
international market,” says Shen Lihui,
the label’s founder. “While people say it’s
a problem that some bands only sing in
Chinese, I don’t care. People will respond to
a good record.”
Sporting retro Raybans and Beatles
bangs, Shen looks every part the formerfrontman-turned-creative label head. He’s
the gatekeeper of the Modern Sky empire
– the Mainland’s marquee indie label
with more than 80 record releases and
a vast roster stretching from noise-rock
(Hedgehog) to urban folk (Song Dongye),
to live electronica (CNdy), and even 1980s
disco-pop (Zhang Qiang). He’s drawn
comparisons to Virgin’s Richard Branson
due to his ambitious vision of taking the
Chinese music industry to uncharted new
territory.
The 45-year-old’s story mirrors the
development of Mainland rock-and-roll. He
discovered modern Western music when
British pop act Wham! became performed
in Beijing in 1983. Five years later, he
started the quintet Sober with classmates at
Beijing Arts and Crafts Institute. He used his
life savings to create Modern Sky in 1997,
allowing him to release his group’s sunny
debut Hao Ji Le?
As the only label of its kind in town,
Modern Sky sold hundreds of thousands
of early records, like dance-rockers New
Pants’ eponymous debut. Their music
‘zines, complete with CD compilations, were
gospels spreading the word of rock across
a nation. “The China market is very special
because everything is still new,” Shen says.
“At the beginning, we were championing
tastes. It was great, but then we went
through some tough times because so much
CD copying was going on. Then, everything
became free with the Internet.”
Despite losing money on their
releases, the label soldiered on to its
tenth anniversary. To celebrate, they
held the first Modern Sky Festival at
Beijing’s Haidian Park with Yeah Yeah
Yeahs headlining a bill of more than
120 of the country’s finest acts. Over
10,000 people attended and it was a
‘eureka’ moment for the company, now
best known for the Strawberry Music
Festival. The May Holiday tradition
for Beijing and Shanghai now attracts
30,000 fans, as well as international
acts like Justice and Explosions in the
Sky.
“A record label and a festival is
the same thing: cool,” Shen notes.
“Now, we must do everything. We
release albums, but festivals are the
most important to us and to youth
culture. While Strawberry has some
international bands, it’s still about 80
percent local bands. It’s very important
they are given more chances to grow.”
Next month’s opportunity to
perform in front of 10,000 fans in
NYC’s Central Park looks set to be
the most exciting chance yet. The lineup
mixes established acts such as Stars, Blood
Brothers and Lenka with label standouts
RE:TROS, Secondhand Rose and Omnipotent
Youth Society. New York favorites Cat Power
and Liars headline, artists that made their
Mainland debuts with Modern Sky in the
last 12 months.
“It makes a lot of sense to bring a
similar concept to cities with big Chinese
communities like New York, San Francisco
and Vancouver,” says Modern Sky’s Director
of International Affairs, Michael LoJudice.
“You’re engaging a massive community of
kids studying from China and music fans
who are simply curious. All these people
who’ve come to hear Liars will also hear
Queen Sea Big Shark.”
With previous stints at hip New York
indie labels Grand Royal and SpinART,
LoJudice traveled to Beijing in 2006 after
reading about Modern Sky. Three months
later, he opened their New York office, to
help bring bands to China and organize
international shows for the label.
Modern Sky’s first American foray came
with the 2009 Sing for China Tour. Three
bands traveled in a single van from coast
to coast, playing 20 shows in 22 days, an
experience LoJudice recalls as “awesome
but torturous.”
The label’s acts continue to play
overseas, New Pants performed at Coachella
in 2011, and talks are ongoing to bring
the Modern Sky Festival to Helsinki next
summer.
“Modern Sky wants to grow
internationally. We have a lot to leverage.
We do all these big festivals in China and
that’s very interesting to foreign bands,” he
says, noting the Central Park festival will be
an annual affair if it proves a success. “Why
shouldn’t there be a company from China
on a global stage for music entertainment?
Why not create localized versions of Modern
Sky all over the world?”
Shen, meanwhile, has big plans at home.
“For Chinese bands, the biggest market
is still China.” He’s considering opening
Modern Sky centers across the country
– part-livehouse, part-store peddling the
label’s records and clothing line. He foresees
more collaborations with the art and
fashion worlds, with the upcoming Modern
Sky Festival in Shanghai (in partnership
with ELLE’s Style Awards) a trial run. After
years of investing in China’s indie music
market, he’s thrilled to see the country take
such an interest.
“While pop still commands the biggest
following, young people want to try different
music now and indie is becoming popular,”
he says. “Just like artists are different every
decade, so are we. In the future, there will
be more cool things. For Modern Sky, the
only requirement is that the music must be
good.”
f e a t u r e | a rts
The Low-End Theory
World-Class Jazz Takes Over Yugong Yishan
Renowned Shanghai music education center the JZ School
will be celebrating the 10th anniversary of its annual jazz
festival this month. Beijing is getting a taste of the action, as
three of the participating acts play dates at Yugong Yishan.
②
①
Jojo Mayer & Nerve
The Swiss drummer received his first drum
set as a two-year-old and has been on-beat
ever since. He performed with legends like
Dizzy Gillespie and Nina Simone, before
embarking on a sonic journey mixing jazz
with electronic flourishes. His Prohibited
Beatz parties in the 1990s were legendary,
leading to the formation of Nerve. Dubbed
“the best real live electronic band in the
world,” the quartet has won praise from
DJ Shadow and Amon Tobin. They’re a live
marvel, with Mayer wowing crowds with
his ability to perform drum ‘n’ bass’ frenetic
rhythms on an acoustic drum kit.
rmb100-150; oct 19, 9.30pm; Yugong Yishan (see
listings for details)
②
Snarky Puppy
The Texan collective rolls nearly 40
members deep and have backed up
everyone from Erykah Badu to Justin
Timberlake to Snoop Dogg. A decade after
their formation, they’re bigger than ever.
Their last album We Like It Here topped the
iTunes jazz chart, while their collaboration
with singer Lalah Hathaway landed them
a Grammy Award this year for Best R&B
Performance. Despite the success of their
studio recordings, the band shines with
their live performances – an unpredictable
stew of jazz, funk and world music that will
get the crowd’s brains and booties moving.
③
①
③
Marcus Miller
Arguably the world’s best bass player,
Miller’s known for his trademark fretless
bass and his slap technique. He’s one of
music’s most trusted sidemen appearing on
over 500 records by artists from Michael
Jackson to Aretha Franklin to Dizzy Gillespie.
Throughout the 1980s, he worked closely
with R&B icon Luther Vandross and
collaborated on a trio of albums with jazz
legend Miles Davis. As band leader, he’s
won two Grammy Awards, while creating a
sterling discography that explores jazz-funk
and jazz-fusion. In recent years, he formed
the supergroup SMV with fellow bass stars
Stanley Clarke and Victor Wooten, while
continuing his impressive career as a film
score composer for movies that include the
Beyoncé‘s Obsessed.
Cover Story
Journeys Along
the Seventh Ring
Words by
Photography by
Video and Additional
Reporting by
Stephen George
N o e m i C a ss a n e l l i
Stephy Chung
Karoline Kan
Os c a r H o l l a n d
Cover Story
Construction on the Seventh Ring Road carries on into the evening a few kilometers outside Chongli
25
The Key
26
Cover Story
Langfang
Population: 760,000
(inner city), 4.2m
(greater city)
2
Area: 908 km (inner),
2
6,429 km (greater)
The capital’s commuter
belt. “With or without the
Seventh Ring, Langfang
will always have a special
relationship with Beijing”
– Mr. Zheng, 27, furniture
store owner
Zhuozhou
Population: 645,500 (greater county)
2
Area: 743 km
Would-be sub-capital, hoping to
trade the burden of overspill for
the benefits of connectivity. “We
have the Seventh Ring Road
map hanging in our office to
show our clients that the dream
of becoming a Beijinger is drawing close” – Li Xinlong, 25, real
estate salesman
Chicheng
Population: 290,000 (greater county)
2
Area: 5,287 km
A drought-ridden river town where urban
dreams collide with rural realities. “For
years, Beijing and Chicheng were as different as heaven and hell, although there is
only a mountain between them. I hope the
Seventh Ring Road will bring some job opportunities rather than rising house prices”
– Song Weining, 52, farmer and construction worker
Length
17km
Zhangjiakou
Population: 780,000
(inner city), 4.6m (greater
city)
2
2
36,947 km (greater)
Former garrison town turned
Olympic hopeful. “I am worried
that Beijing will only hand out
things that it dislikes, such as
pollution and low-level industry”
– Liu Boyu, 31, English school
principal
27
32.7km
Chongli
Population: 125,600
(greater county)
2
Area: 2,337 km
A field of Dreams. “In
Chongli, opportunities to
become rich are out there
if you want to find them.
I hope the construction of
the highway will provide
me with more opportunities”
– Yang Bao, 38, crane
operator
48.3km
65.3km
98.58km
Fengning
Population: 400,000
(greater county)
2
Area: 8,765 km
Manchu autonomous
county, eager for economic
assimilation. “Fengning
has everything Beijing
needs – clean water and
air, spacious land. With the
highway, things will speed
up”– Zhang Guiqing, 52,
seafood seller
187.6km 7th Ring 940km
C h e n g d e Population:
390,000
(inner city), 3.7m
(greater city)
2
2
39,519 km (greater)
Imperial retreat. “I hope
the Ring Road will connect
Chengde with Beijing in
more practical ways, like
sharing medical care and
educational resources” –
Mr. Yang, 35, construction
materials dealer
The story of Beijing’s Ring Roads are in
many ways the story of Beijing’s urban
development. The original ring (known
confusingly as the Second Ring) was constructed in the early 1980s, at the behest of
city planners, who, in embracing reformminded ideals, became convinced of the
need for a modern circular highway. Built
along the route of the old city wall, the
Ring neatly divided the inner city from
its newly emergent fringes. The Third
Ring was built in 1994 and the Fourth and
Fifth in 2000 and 2003 respectively. The
Sixth Ring, the current outermost band,
was built in 2010. At each stage, the construction of a Ring accompanied – or was
built to accommodate – the expansion of
the city. In 1980 Beijing’s population was
9 million. By the time the Sixth Ring was
constructed thirty years later, it had grown
closer to its current size of 21 million.
The growth of China’s urban population is among the most significant
developments in recent history. In 2011,
the country’s population of city dwellers
surpassed that of rural areas for the very
first time. Today, it is estimated that 750
million Chinese people live in cities.
Set to open in 2017, the proposed
Seventh Ring will extend for over 900
kilometers, with around 90 percent of its
length being built through neighboring
Hebei. What this means for the capital is
unclear. In addition to further stretching
the definition of ‘Beijing’, the expressway
is being billed as the backbone of a colossal 130-million-person megalopolis. The
Capital Economic Circle (nicknamed 'JingJin-Ji') will see Beijing absorb eight large
cities in Hebei and link the Chinese capital with Tianjin, itself one of the country’s
largest metropolitan areas (over 10 million
residents).
Over the next 20 pages, we journey
along the proposed route of the Seventh
Ring, through the hinterlands of Hebei,
visiting the places and meeting the people
whose lives it looks set to irreversibly alter.
Part travelogue, part road trip, the journey
is intended as a momentary snapshot of a
rarely documented world. p
Xinglong
Population: 324,000
(greater county)
2
Area: 3,123 km
Where the wild walnuts
grow. “I never think about
my future. It’s too complicated and who knows
what will happen, even
tomorrow?” – Liang Ce, 23,
construction worker
Sanhe
Population: 652,000
(greater county)
2
Area: 643 km
The suburban sleeper
town. “I hope with the
Seventh Ring Road there
will be fewer traffic jams. I
believe the highway is the
start of a better life.”
– Ma Huijun, 47,
truck driver
Langfang
廊坊
Beijing, Outsourced
28
Cover Story
“We have none of the benefits
that come from living in a big
city – no culture. I hope in
the future Langfang can be
integrated into Beijing and
develop”
T
o make the 40-minute drive to Langfang
from Beijing is to glimpse into the future of the proposed Beijing-TianjinHebei megalopolis. Although separated from
the capital by an ever-eroding sliver of farmland, Langfang doesn’t so much appear, as it
does leak slowly onto the horizon, meshing
with Beijing’s outermost suburbs in a nearcontinuous conurbation of new and partiallycompleted concrete developments.
With a population equal to that of a small
European country, Langfang is among the
biggest stops along the proposed route of the
Seventh Ring. Yet despite its considerable
size – official estimates put it at over 4 million – and relative proximity to Beijing, the
city remains something of an enigma.
Ask a Beijinger to describe this prefecture-level city and most will come up blank.
Unlike neighboring Tianjin, and to a lesser
degree Baoding, Langfang has no single,
29
identifiable trait. Its landscape is flat and
uninspiring, its architecture plain. Even its
environment – ranked among the most polluted in northern China – is resolutely gray.
It’s nearing 7am by the time we arrive in
central Langfang and the city’s streets are a
noisy mess of electric bikes, trucks and slowmoving construction machinery. Outwardly,
the city appears to be undergoing a period of
transformation – much of the downtown area
resembles a building site, while billboards
advertising new apartments line the city’s
major roads.
In the large central square, groups of limber seniors perform traditional dance routines, while others – mainly school children
– look on. It is here we meet 79-year-old local resident Zhao Zhenhe, a former Beijinger
who moved to Langfang after his hutong was
demolished in the early 1990s.
“Langfang has always been in Beijing’s
shadow,” says Zhao, in between puffs on
a cigarette. “I think people here don’t care
much about the Seventh Ring, because as
far as they’re concerned, for better or worse,
they’re already connected [to Beijing].”
That connection is relative, however.
Having lived in Beijing for most of his life,
Zhao still views Langfang as remote. “We
have none of the benefits that come from
living in a big city – no culture. I hope in
the future Langfang can be integrated into
Beijing and develop.”
The idea of Langfang as a ‘spillover’ town
was further enhanced in April this year when
it announced an economic partnership with
Xicheng District Government in Beijing.
Ostensibly a means of alleviating pressure
on the capital, the move will see much of
Xicheng’s low-grade industry relocate to
Langfang from next year. Media reports
initially suggested that this would include
Beijing’s famous Zoo Market, though officials
have since attempted to play down reports,
stating only that the deal would include an
unspecified “wholesale market.”
In the city’s working class northeastern
suburbs, business is brisk but by no means
booming. The reason, according to Ms. Liu,
the owner of a small toy shop, is the arrival
of what she refers to as “outsiders.” Pointing
at one of the countless cranes that hover over
the city’s skyline, she counters that few of the
new developments benefit local residents.
“Most of those buying houses in Langfang,
work in Beijing, earn money in Beijing and
spend money in Beijing,” she says. “If we want
to buy an apartment, we will have to move
elsewhere. All these new people are pricing
us out of the market.”
The city’s rapid growth (Langfang’s population has almost doubled since the early
90s) has been spurred, in part, by an influx
of migrant workers keen to cash in on its
construction boom.
At a nearby building site, workers talk enthusiastically of above-average pay. According
to 40-year-old Yu Zhike, who has worked in
Langfang for 12 years and is originally from
Lanzhou, Gansu, workers can expect to make
three to four times the amount they would
elsewhere in China.
“When I first arrived there was nothing
– no infrastructure, no sewage, no working
toilets. Everything you see today is new,” he
explains. “But there are not enough workers [in Langfang]. So the pay is competitive.
Personally, I plan to stay so long as there’s
work. Life is good for me here.”
It’s a similar story at the Longhe Industrial
Park, home to Foxconn, the company responsible for manufacturing and assembling
iPhones. Here, some 60,000 workers are
recruited from across China to help meet
rising demand.
Our arrival at the front gates of the
Foxconn complex coincides with the final
day of work for its live-in summer employees.
Thousands of (mostly college-aged) workers
stream out, suitcases in hand. Unlicensed
taxis and minivans swarm the roads. The
mood is one of excitement.
Summer worker Huang Wei tells us that
the majority of those leaving the plant are
contracted through their schools and universities in places such as Henan.
“I come here only for the money, to help
pay for my studies. In the future, I definitely
won’t do this kind of job, it’s not promising,”
he says.
Back in the city center, opposite the central square we find the ‘New Century Walking
Street’. Originally built in the mid-90s, the
European-style parade appears to have fallen
on hard times. Still described by various online outlets as the city’s most prized tourist
attraction, the street is now depressingly dilapidated. The ‘grand’ central staircase has
quite literally collapsed, the main buildings
are crumbling, the flowerbeds dead or overgrown.
Nevertheless, it continues to house a
number of small independent clothing stores.
Inside one, the manager tells us that business
is tough but dependable. “Most of the people
who buy clothes here are not local. Many of
them are construction workers who come
to Langfang to make money. As Langfang
develops, I expect more people to come and
for my business to improve – even though the
buildings are old,” she explains. “Connection
is a positive thing.”
But not everyone agrees. As closing time
approaches, Mr. Zheng, a local furniture trader is preparing to go home for the night. “The
Seventh Ring will only increase competition
and further suffocate local Langfang businesses,” he tells us.
“For years, Beijing has been digging holes
and waiting for us to jump in – we are always
fooled by this idea of development. But who
really benefits from the development? Not
me. People in Langfang are given no say in
the process. As Langfang develops, it will be
Beijingers who get all the benefits.” p
Zhuozhou
涿州
Chasing the Beijing Dream
T
he highway between Zhuozhou and
Langfang is still under construction in
parts, giving the city an undue sense
of remoteness. But while Zhuozhou may
be small – a mere village by Chinese standards – it is by no means isolated. Connected
to Beijing via high-speed rail, Zhuozhou is
among the chief beneficiaries of the capital’s
expansion plans.
Once a former farming town, Zhuozhou
today is a city transformed. As in Langfang,
a housing boom has seen an influx of young
couples and families priced out of Beijing
and eager to get onto the housing market.
Apartments here, locals tell us, are less than
half the price of those in the capital.
In a newly opened real estate office,
28-year-old Huang Zhenke, a property agent,
explains the city’s attraction: “Zhuozhou is
Beijing’s sub-capital. Most people buying
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houses work in Beijing. Generally speaking,
the market here is quite good. The price is
within reach of regular working people. The
local government supports real estate a lot.
There’s been a massive amount of development since the opening of the high-speed rail
line. The city has everything today – shopping malls, green spaces, good schools. It’s
a paradise for young families.”
Throughout the day, the sound of fireworks – near and distant – can be heard,
each succession of bangs announcing that
a marriage is taking place.
The wedding industry appears to be an
important part of Zhuozhou’s economy – the
high street is home to scores of bridal stores,
their windows filled with promises of ‘New
Style Weddings’ and ‘Paris Fashion Dresses’.
Aspiration is evident elsewhere too.
Opposite the main square, a billboard ad-
vertising a nearby shopping mall invites
you to ‘order your dream life,’ while stores
sell ‘European kitchens,’ ‘Milan fashion’ and
‘luxury furniture.’
Outside, three-wheeled cabs wait to pick
up shoppers. Cab driver Wang Lichang, 57,
who was born and raised in Zhuozhou, is
supportive of the changes taking place.
“The new people are driving the economy.
They want to settle down and raise families
here. Young people today have many more
opportunities than I did growing up. My
daughter works in Beijing but she lives here,
it’s perfect for her,” he explains.
“My dream is that one day we will all be
Beijingers,” he adds. “The rail line and the
Seventh Ring are bringing us all closer together – that is good for Beijing and for us.” p
Flyers advertising new housing developments are found throughout the Seventh Ring’s route
The G7 Highway
G7高速公路
R e a d y a n d Wa i t i n g
T
he Seventh Ring may not open in its entirety until 2017
but sections of the road are already finished and in
use. Currently known as highways G95 and G7, the
project’s longest completed stretch runs from Zhuozhou to
Zhangjiakou and is flanked by jagged mountain peaks that
rise one after another, overlapping between dense layers
of mist. The terraced fields on the mountain slopes take
the appearance of flowing green water, interrupted by occasional splashes of wild flowers.
As we emerge from a series of long tunnels that carve
through the landscape, a cargo train passes ahead of us on
an elevated railway line. The train’s length is astonishing. It
is still flying across the highway bridge as it disappears into
the horizon behind us. We are later told that the red and
gray cars are loaded with coal bound for Japan. Traveling
from Shanxi to the coast in Qinhuangdao, the train honors a trade agreement signed by Premier Zhou Enlai four
decades ago.
This is not the only reminder of the past. At one of the
infrequent rest stops we find an ‘Artware Souvenir Shop’
(although ‘Artware’ might better read: ‘Communist’). Inside,
portraits of Marx, Engels, Lenin, Stalin, Mao Zedong, Deng
Xiaoping and Hu Jintao sit alongside one another in a combination of images rarely displayed in the capital.
But most of the items for sale are modeled on Mao.
Plaster, bronze, wood and ceramic sculptures all stand in
near identical poses, each in the same flowing coat, arm
outstretched in a benevolent wave.
Far from the communist kitsch on sale in tourist spots
in Beijing – which lies just beyond the mountains – the
souvenirs are targeted at an altogether different market.
Many in the capital ascribe to the Party-endorsed notion
that Mao’s leadership was “70 percent right and 30 percent
wrong” but uncritical reverence for the former leader is
much more prominent in surrounding provinces like Hebei.
This has helped the steady growth of business at the shop
since it opened five months ago, explains 39-year-old sales
assistant Ms.Yang.
“All of our customers are drivers passing by. Some
buy gifts for their friends but most buy for themselves.
Sculptures of Chairman Mao are put in cars or even people’s homes for their safety. To them, Chairman Mao is kind
of a god,” she tells us.
Further along the road’s western stretch, we catch the
first physical evidence of the Seventh Ring. On a huge sign,
some ten meters above the road, red characters are set
against a backdrop of Zhuozhou’s city
planning photo proclaiming: ‘Beijing
West Seventh Ring Road’.
Unbeknown to us at the time, this
will be the only physical recognition of
the project that we encounter. While
“Beijing West Seventh Ring Road”
31
the Ring’s route has been widely reported in state media,
and its construction is evidently underway, the majority of
people who we speak with along its path have never heard
of the road. For those who have, it is little more than an abstract concept; a distant harbinger of threat or opportunity.
This is perhaps of little surprise given the isolation that
many of these places have existed in until now. Indeed, just
beyond the roadside sign, nestled behind apple trees and
sunflowers, we find something that could hardly be further from the Beijing sprawl that may soon engulf it – a
Catholic village.
At Huangtugang’s center, a huge European-style church
dominates the landscape, its spires piercing a skyline in
which nothing stands higher than a single story. With dark
pink walls and a sharp roof, the sight is as dramatic as it
is unexpected.
We climb down the bank of the highway, past a barbedwire fence and into a field of fruit trees. A shepherd watches
on cautiously, though he seems appeased as we point to
the church. “Are you also Catholics? Here, all the villagers
are Catholics,” he says, leading us (and his sheep) the rest
of the way.
In the village we meet 49-year-old Zhao, who says that
the Bible and Church have always been important parts of
his life. Along with all the other villagers, he attends church
twice a day for prayers and song.
“I don’t know how long people here have followed
Catholicism, but I was told by my grandfather that his
grandfather was also Catholic, so it must be a very long
time,” he says.
A church has long existed on this site, though the one
stood before us was built in 2005. A local priest collected
funds for the project at about the same time that a number
of villagers’ fields were acquired by officials to make way for
the Ring Road. Zhao received compensation of RMB28,300
for his plot, with some additional money given for the apple
trees and grapevines that he lost. Nonetheless, he would
have chosen land over money.
“The only thing I know about the Seventh Ring is that
big sign over there,” says Zhao as he leads us to his home.
“I am not optimistic about highways. The only change they
bring is more noise from cars and trucks, day and night.
There is little promise here – there has been no water on
the north mountain in recent years. We can’t plant anything,
we only dig wells.”
The poverty is starkly apparent. Many buildings are reinforced with an outer layer of dried manure and most of the
villagers earn less than RMB10,000
a year, even with a good harvest.
With drought worsening, many
have abandoned farming and instead migrate elsewhere for work.
As the villagers gather for
A church in the remote catholic village of Huangtugang dominates the Hebei skyline
32
Cover Story
“I don’t know how long people here have followed Catholicism,
but I was told by my grandfather that his grandfather was
also Catholic, so it must be a very long time”
33
Catholic villager Mrs Zhao at her home in Huangtugang (above)
where religious imagery is proudly displayed (right)
evensong we do not see a single young face
and it is only at a nearby supply shop where
we find anyone of working age. The chemical plant on the other side of the highway
has fallen into disuse, meaning the nearest
factory is now some 47 kilometers away in
Xuanhua. For those unable to make the journey, livelihoods must instead depend on the
year’s rainfall.
But while poor, the villagers are some
of the most cheerful characters that we encounter on the journey. Outside Zhao’s gate,
a group of old women sit out on the steps enjoying the sunshine and early autumn breeze.
A few meters away, middle-aged men engross
themselves in a game of Chinese chess. The
villagers may be somewhat cautious of outsiders – we are not allowed into the church
service – but they are more forthcoming with
their homes.
“Come in, please don’t mind the mess,”
Zhao says, seemingly embarrassed by his
simple house as he ushers us in.
There are two small buildings in his yard –
one old and one evidently newer – each with
three rooms. In one, a hearth is set beside a
wall connected to a kang, a heated bed commonly used in northern China. In the other,
three tanks, each over a meter high, store
water in case the village loses its supply. The
walls are decorated with classical images of
flowers and birds, but religion is the dominant theme of the decor. Photo frames bear
34
Cover Story
family portraits – including many of a priest – with
depictions of Jesus and
other religious imagery
symbolizing their piety.
Zhao’s mother, who
sits on the kang, has had
difficulty speaking since falling ill last year.
She expresses herself through gestures, occasionally putting her hands together in prayer
during the conversation. Her husband reads
the Bible every day.
“For me, religion gives courage,” Zhao’s
father says. “I am in my late 80s but I am not
afraid of death. I believe that if I put my faith
in God and do good things when I am alive,
then when I die, I won’t suffer pain.”
For the people of Huangtugang, the outside world was, until recently, a place behind
the mountains and beyond the horizon. The
village existed unnoticed, its inhabitants
practicing their religion, living and dying in
relative isolation. Now part of the highway
scenery, the Seventh Ring cuts through one
of its corners, exposing it to all beyond.
We depart with good wishes and gifts of
fruit. While on this occasion, Huangtugang’s
visibility only lured inquisitive outsiders, it
remains to be seen whether threats to its
way of life accompany the completion of
the Seventh Ring. Beijing needs more land
to expand and the people here have no say
in the urbanization that is creeping toward
“I am in my late
80s but I am not
afraid of death. I
believe that if I put
my faith in God
and do good things
when I am alive,
then when I die, I
won’t suffer pain”
them. The short remainder of the road to
Zhangjiakou reveals what urban planners
hope will become of Hebei – a row of power
plants exhaling smoke into the sunset. p
Zhangjiakou
张家口
Olympic Bargain
F
or decades, Zhangjiakou was regarded
as something of a backwater – a lowlevel administrative city, where lessfortunate PLA generals would be forced to
spend their winters, scanning the horizon
for signs of invasion.
Today, with the threat of a surprise
Russian attack long since past, Zhangjiakou
is attempting to redefine its image. Although
still home to the colossal 65th Group – one of
the three large-scale military units assigned
to protect Beijing – the ‘gate of the north’, as
it was once known, now invites visitors to
enter into the city via a succession of ornate
European-style bridges. A gritty garrison
town this is not.
Driving under the flashing neon lights
of the downtown area, we are met with the
first of several large signs proudly announcing the city’s joint bid with Beijing to host the
2022 Winter Olympics. Dismissed by many
outside China as audacious, the bid has be-
come central to Zhangjiakou’s renewed sense
floor, at the reduced price of RMB300 and a
of self. Few people we talk with during our
complimentary round of beers.
visit express doubt over the city’s chances of
It is a Tuesday night but the club is full
to capacity. A singer dressed in a red fur coat,
securing the Games – while a small number,
like our hotel receptionist, appear convinced
leather trousers, chunky gold chains and a
the city has already won.
studded cod piece, performs in front of a
With enthusiasm so high, competing
young, fashionably dressed crowd. Bottles
bids from Oslo and Almaty barely register,
of Chivas Regal and green tea are ferried bethe common consensus being that only the
tween tables and the music is thumping – a
Chinese government has the political will to
relentless mix of hard techno beats and EDM
deliver the Winter Olympics. Confidence is
club bangers. Two brightly-adorned circus
high among investors
too, many of whom
“Zhangjiakou is not as developed as
have begun buying up
Beijing yet – but it’s not as pressured
land in preparation of
the Games’ arrival.
either. There is more freedom. Young
At the two-story
people here are good at having fun”
Tianlai nightclub, noone mentions the bid directly, though evidence
of its effects are soon made clear. While the
clowns wander the club on stilts, handing
manager appears taken aback at the prospect
out balloon animals, while above the dance
of foreigners entering his club, he is equally
floor, skimpily dressed female podium dancquick to assure us of its “international repuers work the crowd. Unlike similar clubs in
tation” – and by extension, the relatively low
Beijing – where all too often, people seem
cost of the RMB1,000 table fee required to set
content to affect an air of aloofness from befoot inside. Eventually, after much negotiation,
hind a ‘VIP’ table – almost everyone at Tianlai
we are ushered to a table next to the dance
appears eager to dance.
Enthusiasm for Zhangjiakou’s bid to co-host the 2022 Winter Olympics can be seen across the city
35
“Young people come here to let loose after
most people here in Zhangjiakou can’t afford
offices of the local government.
work,” explains 23-year-old Wang Wei, the
to use it – and maybe never will.”
Wang is awaiting our arrival at the enclub’s floor manager. His colleague, a barBowie, who also serves as a delegate to
trance of the hotel. A tall, slender man in his
man who goes by the single English name
the CPPCC (the Chinese People's Political
mid-30s, with a firm handshake and a shrewd
‘Diamond’, agrees: “Zhangjiakou is not as deConsultative Conference), fails to buy into
grin, Wang seems at ease in our presence and
veloped as Beijing yet – but it’s not as presthe much lauded ‘trickle down’ argument
leads our group through the hotel to a private
sured either. There is more freedom. Young
that increased tourism would benefit ordirestaurant on the top floor.
nary citizens.
The restaurant is lavishly decorated – and
people here are good at having fun.”
the menu expensive. But Wang assures us not
“Officials like to say that we are ‘Beijing’s
As the night wears on, the crowd slowly
backyard.’ I don't like that definition. Our
to worry, we are his guests. He encourages us
filters out into the nearby parking lot, where
lines of BMWs, Mercedes and Audis await.
to order whatever we like, and instructs the
city’s slogans are all about how to ‘serve
We decide to head back to our hotel and flag
waitresses to bring in some cold beer (“it’s too
Beijing’. Beijing takes all our water. Locals
down a taxi. There are too many of us for a
here today can’t farm rice, because there is
early for baijiu”). After several days eating in
single car but our driver – a towering man
no longer enough water, so instead they grow
roadside diners and second-tier snack-stops,
of Mongolian heritage – seems unconcerned.
corn. In the summer, the government cuts
the sudden change of scenery feels somewhat
He pretends not to notice as five passengers
our water supply even more – why? Because
surreal.
squeeze into four seats and as we pull away,
Beijing’s water supply is more important. It’s
As we prepare to sit down, Wang introhe begins to sing. His voice has a melancholic
the same with power too. The huge power
duces us to a third friend, Liu, a “big time”
quality that quiets our drunken conversation
stations you saw on your way into town do
Shanxi steel broker with an elaborate dragon
and for the rest of the journey we travel in
not generate power for people here – it is for
sleeve tattoo and an outsized chunky gold
silence.
Beijing. And yet all the pollution the power
watch. A reticent character, he remains susWe get up early the following morning
stations create stays right here in Zhangjiakou.
piciously mute throughout the encounter. The
and head to the local market to
buy some breakfast – the sight
of several foreigners in a neighborhood rarely visited by tourists, prompts several vendors to
ask us if we’re linked somehow
to the Olympics. It is bustling
and the produce fresh; many
of those here are from nearby
villages – their rural wares a
marked contrast to the shimmering new buildings that form
the market’s backdrop.
The vendors appear keen
to talk, with many telling us
of the changes that have taken
place. “I've been in Zhangjiakou
for ten years in total,” says Sun
Wei, leaning over a pile of cauliflower. “Not so long ago, where
we are today was all fields. The
changes have been good for
us ordinary people. There are
more job opportunities and
higher wages. General living
conditions are improving too.
When I started out, ten years
ago, I made just 400 yuan a
month, today I can earn as
much as 2,000.”
On the way back, we encounter 36-year-old Liu Boyu,
the principal of a nearby
English language school, and
part-time snowboarding inDespite optimism about the Olympics, Liu Boyu, or ‘Bowie’, bemoans the negative impact Beijing has on his hometown, Zhangjiakou
structor.
Despite his passion for
winter sports, Liu, who requests that we call
The relationship is uneven. Beijing is the emtwo are business partners, explains Wang,
him ‘Bowie’ (“I love Ziggy Stardust!”) views
and together they are planning the developperor, we are the servants.”
the Olympic bid – and the changes it might
After spending much of the morning with
ment of a new ski resort.
Bowie, he invites us to join him for lunch
“We have bought the right to develop
bring, with a certain trepidation.
“There’s no reason to think it will be a good
alongside his friend, Wang, a former mining
two mountains, between here and Chongli,”
thing” he begins. “Aside from fame, I don't
explains Wang, lighting a cigarette. “We are
magnate turned real estate developer.
know what hosting the games would bring
We travel by car across town, stopping
waiting for the approval from the government
us ordinary citizens. The skiing facilities are
briefly to admire the city’s immaculately
to go ahead – all building is suspended until
some of the best in China. But who does it
manicured central square, before arriving at
July next year [when the IOC announces the
serve exactly? Yes, it creates a few jobs, but
a newly built hotel, not far from the head
winning host city of the 2022 Olympics], after
36
Cover Story
Former mining magnate, Wang, raises a toast at a luxury hotel restaurant
“Our city’s slogans are all about how to
‘serve Beijing’... The relationship is uneven.
Beijing is the emperor, we are the servants”
which the government will create a plan of
how to develop the area.”
As the food arrives – plates of classic delicacies including steamed mandarin fish and
braised duck tongue – Wang tells us how he
came to be in his current position.
A self-made man, with a large property
portfolio, Wang entered the mining business
in his early twenties, opening his first mine
several years later, though he never discloses
exactly how.
For a while, business was good. But then,
midway through last year – the government
ordered that all mining operations be halted,
as part of a Hebei-wide initiative to improve
the local environment. According to Bowie,
37
Wang was never compensated for the forced
closure.
The experience taught Wang to be weary
of the capital – “You can’t fully trust Beijing,”
he says at one point.
But as Wang openly admits, his new
mountain resort remains dependent on
Beijing’s backing – specifically its support
for the Olympic bid – without which his venture will likely remain in the planning stages.
He shakes off the apparent contradiction. “We don’t need Beijing – Beijing needs
us. Where else are they going to ski?”
There is perhaps some truth in that, but
it appears to us that having reached a certain
level of prosperity, Zhangjiakou’s new pow-
er elite now face a dilemma: move closer to
Beijing, and risk having their local monopolies broken up – or retreat, and miss out on
the potentially lucrative opportunities made
possible by increased development.
For the moment, however, Wang remains
unperturbed by the changes ahead, and we
join him in a toast to “new friends”.
Later in the day, as we drive out of
Zhangjiakou, we pass the ‘old square’ where
elaborate Olympic-themed decorations are
being arranged under the city’s last remaining
statue of Chairman Mao. The Olympics are
coming, they appear intent on announcing.
The Olympics are coming..? p
Chongli
崇礼
I f Yo u B u i l d i t T h e y Wi l l C o m e
Y
angshang village lies less than 30 minutes drive from Zhangjiakou,
though for all the similarity the two possess they could be at
separate ends of the country. At the entrance we meet 68-yearold former village secretary, Wang Zhanmei.
“Four tons of vegetables around Zhangjiakou and Chongli have
been left to rot in the fields,” he says, pointing to the mass of untended
crops. “Last year, the price of beans was 4.8 yuan per kilogram – very
high – and so this year, all the farmers decided to grow beans. But
this year’s price is just 0.8 yuan, the income won’t even cover the
expenses,” he explains.
Most of the villagers have since left in desperation, hoping to find
work in the city. Yet despite this year’s bad crop, Wang remains hopeful about the future.
As he points out, the village is changing. The once muddy road
has been paved; households now have running water (although villagers still prefer water from their spring); street lights were installed
last year; and all anybody wants to talk about is the Winter Olympics.
“I think I am so lucky that it will take place when I am still alive,”
says Wang. “I think the Olympics will make our lives better. I imagine
foreigners from around the world will come and 10 years later, we will
move to a house with two floors.”
Others in the village talk excitedly of the possibility of further
integration with Beijing. “I heard the Zhang-Cheng highway which is
38
Cover Story
very close to us will be a part of the Seventh Ring Road,” says Wang’s
friend, who walks over to join the conversation. “If Beijing can integrate
us, it will be the best thing that ever happened here – we will be able
to sell our vegetables to people in the city.”
Near to the village, work continues apace on the Zhang-Cheng
highway – the so-called ‘northern roof’ of the Seventh Ring. It has been
raining a lot and the project is behind. Crane operator Yang Bao, 38,
tells us how he can expect to make around RMB150 per hour. Though
he stresses it is not nearly as much as truck drivers.
“I have been working as a crane operator for almost 10 years and
last year I finally collected enough money to buy my own crane,” says
Yang, who believes that there will be more projects around Chongli
in the coming years.
Construction on the highway began last April and is scheduled to
finish next October. However, Yang prefers to work on a temporary
contract in case better opportunities suddenly arise.
“Chongli is different every day. There is money out there, if you
want to earn it. I have land too but I rent it out. There’s no money to
be made in farming the lands. Even during a good year the maximum
you might earn is 10,000 yuan,” says Yang, pointing to abandoned fields
alongside the construction site. “The government paid farmers here
22,000 yuan for each acre they needed for the highway. Most of them
are happy and, besides, the highway will bring us all good fortune.” p
Chicheng
赤城
We l c o m e t o C h r i s t m a s To w n
I
t is Christmas day when we arrive in Chicheng. Or so proclaims
the digital calendar at the entrance of our hotel. As the first foreign guests to ever stay here, perhaps we are the only ones to find
amusement in the error.
It is actually early September, though we could have been fooled.
Aside from being noticeably colder by night than in Beijing, the entire
length of the river that runs through the center of the city is draped
in fluorescent lights. Lampposts, railings and bridges all pulsate with
luminescent shades of red, green and purple that shoot out across
the water’s surface. Beside the river, a giant multi-colored LED screen
displays the message: “It is our responsibility to protect our river town’s
water!”
By nightfall, the town may be practically empty, save for a few
solitary fishermen, but it appears remarkably festive. Even the surrounding mountains have been colorfully lit with the phrase ‘green
water and city with sunset clouds’ (which sounds a great deal more
poetic in Chinese).
Daytime reveals the harsher realities of life in Beijing’s so-called
‘poverty belt’. The county in which Chicheng is situated (and shares
its name with), remains one of the poorest in Hebei. It is reported
that 35 villages in the area have an average annual income of less than
RMB1,227 per person. The main town’s
riverside strip may have been gentrified,
but just behind the new-build facade lie
dilapidated, single-story buildings that
form the reality for most of the 30,000
or so residents.
Here the rural and urban co-exist in
awkward union. Many of the trappings of
modernity are present — new cars and
aspirational consumer goods on faded
advertising boards. But just as the town’s
river flows rapidly at the center while sitting stagnant at either bank, the changes
in Chicheng appear to be unfolding at
varying speeds. Men in straw hats lead
donkeys past high-street fashion stores
selling items that would have, until recently, been unobtainable luxuries.
On the roof top of a new building, a man unfurls a banner advertising
face creams, while below, a woman wearing an eye patch sells watermelons from the back of a wooden cart.
The town clearly benefits in some way from its proximity to Beijing,
but what does it stand to gain, or lose, from being pulled further into
the capital’s orbit?
Outside the newly opened Wanhe Shopping Mall, 50-year-old
Mu, owner of the city’s first cosmetic store, is explaining the differences between Lancôme and Estée Lauder to his two young female
employees. Since opening several months ago, Mu’s store has failed
to attract many customers.
“Every day I am losing money on rent, salaries and waste products,” he explains. “But it’s my strategy, I believe there will be a big
market here thanks to the Olympic Games and the Seventh Ring. The
Olympics only last for a month, but the highway, once finished, will
attract more factories and companies.”
But alongside opportunity comes the threat of the county’s rising
house prices, which in 2011, almost doubled. With land costs on the
Seventh Ring's route already jumping significantly in some areas since
its announcement, the problem will only worsen if the road cannot
bring equivalent rises in income.
Song Weining, 52, is helping to install underground piping outside
the Wanhe Shopping Mall. He is frustrated by what he considers to be
the uneven distribution of wealth generated by increased interaction
with Beijing. Song is from one of Chicheng county’s villages, though
he now rents a small apartment in the town for RMB1,000 a month.
“I have no choice. In the countryside, there are no jobs, but in the
town, I can’t even afford my own apartment.”
Song is skeptical about the future. People in his village believe that
the Seventh Ring will make their lives easier, but since leaving, he has
begun to see things differently. “Take the housing price for example,
the more the place develops, the more us poor people suffer. We are
always left behind,” he says.
Manually shoveling soil with a spade for more than 10 hours at
a time, seven days a week, Song earns just RMB100 a day. The pipes
he unearths carry one of the region’s most precious commodities –
water. But despite its abundance, drought is evident in this part of
the province.
We pass the nearby Yunzhou reservoir which is filled with water
bound for Beijing. A local saying states that one in every two glasses
of water in the capital comes from Chicheng. This may not be strictly
true, but there are reservoirs in Beijing which take more than 50 percent of their water from three of the county’s rivers.
A few kilometers out of town we chance upon a potato farm
nestled between rows of maize. The irrigation ditch beside it is com-
“Look at the corn fields... No corn,
just stalks. They are dying from
drought. The water is all sold to
Chongli skiing resorts. They don’t
care if we farmers need water”
39
pletely dry. The area has suffered in recent years, explains farm boss
Po Yanlin, who says that last winter, water was siphoned away to produce fake snow at local ski resorts frequented by Beijing’s burgeoning
middle class.
“Look at the corn fields,” says 64-year-old farmer turned potatopicker Wang Ziyou. “No corn, just stalks. They are dying from drought.
All the water is all sold to Chongli skiing resorts. They don’t care if
we farmers need water.”
The farm workers here, like elsewhere in China, all own small plots
of land, but the lure of a stable income and the risk of drought outweigh
the potential gains. They rent their land to Po and richer villagers who
then sell the produce to urban consumers. Po pays them each a salary
and uses his motorized ploughs to dig up the potatoes, leaving the
farmers to stoop in the searing sun and collect them up into sacks.
“This way I can at least get 500 yuan for renting out each acre
of land,” says farmer Wang. “Plus I earn 70 yuan a day working here.
What else can I do? In the countryside, old men have to work until
they can’t move any more. I am very appreciative of the government
for giving us 55 yuan a month after the age of 60, but that is barely
enough for food.”
As with the county’s water, agriculture here also serves the capital’s insatiable appetite — in this instance, for fries. While Chicheng’s
main town must make do with a counterfeit fast food outlet MDC
(that combines KFC’s font with an all-too-familiar clown mascot),
this farm’s produce will be sold to McDonalds in Beijing, explains Po.
Farmers amid rows of broccoli in Chicheng County
41
Chicheng County, to the north of Beijing, is home to 35 villages with an average annual income of less than RMB1,227 per person
42
Cover Story
Currently Chicheng County’s relationship with the capital appears one-sided. Water,
agriculture and talent all flow out from the
area, with little returning, aside from a small
share of the profits. The arrival of the Seventh
Ring Road may simply increase the ease with
which the area can be exploited for its natural
assets.
But conversely, increased connectivity with Beijing may help the area become
more than just a source of food and water
for the capital. If the Beijing-Tianjin-Hebei
megalopolis comes to fruition, it will be accompanied by more shared decision-making
and planning policies which should, in theory,
ensure that resources are better distributed
across the region.
“This year, the government helped us dig
some wells to solve the water problem. Of
course, you need to pay to get water. I am very
optimistic about this year’s business,” says Po,
who claims he can earn up to a million yuan
from his potato business during a good year.
“I pay more attention to the future. People
only notice things like rising living costs. But
at the same time, the more industries come
in, the more jobs are created and the more
open the city is to the outside world.”
We continue along the Ring’s northern
stretch, past silver birches, wild hemp and
long-neglected terraces carved into mountainside. This beautiful and comparatively
remote area is perhaps the poorest on our
route and the one most in need of the wealth
diffusing outwards from Beijing. Critics of the
Seventh Ring believe that it may exacerbate
the development gap between the capital
and surrounding areas. It is in counties like
Chicheng where the strategy’s wisdom will
be most evidently put to test. p
Fengning
丰宁
O n c e We r e Wa r r i o r s
T
he notion of a Manchu Autonomous
County may conjure images of horses,
grasslands and ethnic clothing. But, in
appearance at least, Fengning’s main county
town appears little different from others in
Hebei. Ethnic distinctions can, we are told, be
spotted by a trained eye (and moustaches are
more prominent), but aside from speaking a
more ‘standard’ Mandarin, it is not always
easy to differentiate. According to official
estimates, around two-thirds of the county’s
380,000 residents are Manchu (a figure supported by our wiry hotelier), though everyone
that we speak to in the town, without exception, claims Manchu heritage.
As one of the most important stopovers
for the ethnically Manchu Qing Dynasty as
they descended on Beijing in the 17th cen43
tury, Fengning’s history has long been tied
with that of Manchuria. After conquering
the capital, many low-ranking Manchu soldiers remained in the county to develop the
land. The story of how the town was named
is carved into a huge stone tablet in the
town’s busy main square, where we find Liu
Zongguo, 73, returning home with his groceries. The retired factory manager expresses his
disappointment that people here, even the
older generation, can barely speak or read
their ancestors’ language. In fact, fewer than
70 native or semi-speakers of the language
remain.
“Here, most shops have bilingual signs,” he
says, pointing to a small ice cream store bearing markings of the near-extinct language.
“But sadly none of us can read it. We did not
value our own culture and the country did not
make the same effort to preserve it as they did
for the Mongolians, Tibetans and Uighurs.”
Just as their language was incorporated
into today’s putonghua, the Manchus’ process of conquer and assimilation left them
with few remnants of their unique culture.
Although Fengning was granted autonomous
county status in 1987 – ostensibly to help preserve its traditions – there is scant evidence
of history in the town.
At the distinctly ‘pan-China’ Intangible
Cultural Heritage Museum, images of Mao
and Lei Feng feature more prominently than
any of the Qing emperors. We are enthusiastically shown to an exhibition floor where
artifacts progress through time from prehistory before abruptly stopping at the 1500s,
just as the Manchus were coming to rule. The
‘Manchu Heritage Village’, a little outside the
town, tries a little harder. But it is clearly for
tourists in search of horses, bows and arrows.
The village employees no doubt change from
their Manchu clothing as soon as their shift
ends.
But while the preservation of Manchu
culture feels somewhat futile, a certain yearning exists nonetheless – even among the
young. We stop at a roadside wedding and,
as the couple pass beneath a banner reading
‘I Love You’ in English, the bride’s sister tells
us: “I hope that [Fengning] can develop and,
at the same time, preserve Manchu culture.”
Little cannons fire confetti into the air and the
eruption of firecrackers sends guests ducking
for cover. The flowing white bridal dress and
tiara, like the entire ceremony, are not exactly
steeped in Manchurian tradition.
This is not to say that all Western trends
have caught on with such vigor. Our attempt
to order cafe lattes at a nearby ice cream shop
instigates visible panic among the employees,
three of whom stand around the high tech
silver coffee machine in bemusement. After
over ten minutes of prodding, debate and disappearing into the backroom, two drinks are
produced. We are told that the store has no
milk, but we are assured that these are lattes.
We take our black-coffee-with-unknownmilk-substitute and return to the one of the
town’s busier streets. Protruding from the
main junction, we see the most pervasive
sight of our journey across the Seventh Ring:
a building under construction. Development
is endemic here too. In the past two years,
more than ten residential compounds were
built in this town of less than 15 square kilometers.
A short walk away, we find more cranes
parked in a construction site. But there are
no workers here. Hubei native Huang Chaofu,
who is unemployed and out enjoying the sun,
tells us that the project is in trouble. Two days
previously, a worker threatened to jump from
the building in protest for having not been
paid his year’s salary. The local government
paid the bill to buy his silence, Huang claims,
though the development has now been stalled.
“In a small town like this, you don’t see the
darkness behind the prosperous face,” he says.
Dependant on a crutch to walk and blind
in one eye following an accident last year at
a local coal mine, 30-something Huang enjoys slightly better treatment. Despite having
never signed a formal employment contract,
the mine’s boss provides him with RMB8,000
a month for treatment and living expenses.
This is far from the million yuan he hopes for.
“If I get the money, I will leave this place
immediately. But I know the boss’ situation.
Many mines have their minerals heaped up
there because there is no market right now.
The housing market is also full of bubbles,”
Huang tells us.
Economic concerns appear to take precedence over cultural ones. Back in the town
square, Liu Zongguo, who earlier shared
his dismay about the loss of the Manchu
language, hopes that the Seventh Ring can help Fengning replicate
the development found in Langfang, the first city we visited.
“It will be great if the Seventh Ring Road brings more industries,
like in Langfang, which used to be very poor but now has a booming economy,” says Liu who, along with his wife, lives on a pension
of around RMB5,000. Everybody will benefit from the economy’s
development. In ten years time, I am sure there will be huge changes
in this city. The highway will bring in everything.”
Liu’s hope that prosperity can be better spread through the region
is echoed by 58-year-old government employee, Li Hua, who we find
a few meters beyond him in the square.
“Fengning cannot compare with Beijing at all, not even with
Langfang. Huairou District [in Beijing] is only 18 kilometers away –
they’re as different as heaven and earth,” he says.
The gap between Fengning and the capital is clear. We are told
that the highest housing price here is less than RMB6,000 per square
meter, less than a fifth of the average price in Beijing. Civil servants in
Fengning can expect an average of RMB2,700 per month – significantly
lower than the starting salary of their Beijing counterparts. Meanwhile,
farmers here receive a state subsidy of just RMB55 a month, rather
than the RMB350 enjoyed less than 20 kilometers away.
But the move towards an integrated megalopolis – the wider
project that the Ring Road epitomizes – is already having an impact
here, some locals claim. Fengning’s beef, mutton and vegetables are
sold to the capital, and companies from Beijing are buying land at the
provincial border to set up business. There is optimism that the town
can catch up with its neighbors.
Small business owner Zhang Guiqing, 52, takes a break from his
game of badminton to share his hopes for the town’s future. Sporting
a counterfeit Liverpool soccer jersey, he is positive about rumors of a
high-speed rail link and explains that ties with the capital are already
expanding.
“As I’ve long expected, the Seventh Ring Road will go through
Fengning. Beijing has no other choice than to expand to our small
places. It is exploding – too much noise, pollution and pressure from
overpopulation. Beijingers are coming here for our clean air, water
and comfortable climate. In summer, cars with Beijing plates are even
blocking the road to the grasslands,” he declares proudly.
Given that the Manchus once swarmed down to take Beijing,
there is a certain irony in the fact that they may soon be consumed
by the capital. What’s more, as we pass a crowded square on our way
from the town, it transpires that the once fierce warriors are now also
willing conscripts to the Chinese army.
Around 100 youths, most in their late teens, stand in line with red
flowers attached to their military uniforms. Hordes of family members
stand around them, holding their hands and, in some cases, wiping
tears. These newly recruited soldiers are bound for military camps in
cities like Beijing, Tianjin and Shijiazhuang for a minimum of two years.
A red carpet is laid out on the stage in preparation for a speech
by the leaders of the county’s military office, who recruit new soldiers
here twice a year. Loud songs with lyrics that include “being a soldier
protecting the nation is the biggest honor” play repeatedly. A banner
hung above the parade instructs: “Join the army using your cultural
knowledge to show the true color of men,” and reminds the young
conscripts that their loyalty to the army will “repay the motherland
for her kindness.”
As conscription is voluntary in China, all have made a careful
and mature decision, says Mrs Ma, whose 19-year-old son is among
the recruits.
“Most families want to send their son to the army if he is not
attending university. It’s a good choice,” she says. “First, it gets him
some exercise, both physical and mental, and after he comes back it
will benefit his future career.”
Prospects remain limited for young people in Fengning. The economy is significantly stunted when compared to that of the capital, or
even other stops along the Ring Road. The expansion of Beijing is
likely to further erode ethnic identities in this Manchu county. But
the opportunities that it brings may, for many, make this a sacrifice
worth making. p
44
Cover Story
A power station in Chengde
provides the backdrop to the
Haichao Amusement Park
Chengde
承德
T h e To u r i s t
Fa c t o r y
A
number of the stops along the Seventh Ring have, until now,
existed away from the capital, each in varying degrees of isolation. But movement between Beijing and Chengde, on the
route’s northeastern tip, enjoys a long and important history. The
city’s Mountain Resort — a colossal collection of palaces, gardens and
pavilions — acted as a summer residence for Qing Dynasty emperors
before falling out of favor in 1861, when the Emperor Xianfeng died
there and irreversibly damaged its feng shui in the process.
Consequently, the city has become one of Hebei’s most popular
tourist destinations. One of the province’s three UNESCO World
Heritage sites, Chengde appears to be booming, even without the connectivity that the Ring Road will offer. The number of annual visitors
stood at 24 million in 2013, more than three times as many as in 2009.
45
Despite the city’s apparent success in attracting tourists, the prospect of integration with Beijing bringing in new customers is welcome,
says 45-year-old Cong, who sells trinkets outside the 18th Century
Putuo Zongcheng temple complex, which was modeled on Tibet’s
Potala Palace.
“There are only seven to eight weeks of tourism a year but the
management of the industry is getting stricter, which means it’s harder
for me to make money,” says Cong. “Last year, a regulation was implemented preventing tour guides from taking tourists to unregulated souvenir shops to gain commission,” he explains. “Hopefully the Seventh
Ring will mean more tourists, not only Chinese, but also foreigners,
who are more likely to visit my stand without a guide.”
But not all attractions in Chengde are quite so steeped in history.
Nor are they so successful in luring visitors.
On the outskirts of the city we stop at the
near-deserted Haichao Amusement Park, a
rather depressing collection of merry-gorounds and rides that periodically grind into
life, most of their seats unoccupied. Business
at the funfair has been variable, according
to one of its employees, 20-year-old Wei
Rongzhi.
“At first, crowds of people came here every
day. Right now, students have to go back to
school, so we are going through the quiet
season. But business will go up during the
holidays. Also, people from Beijing, Tianjin
and Shijiazhuang will come here,” he says
hopefully.
Ostensibly, the creation of the Seventh
Ring is less likely to make a difference to
places like Chengde that are already easily
reached from the capital by road and rail.
While opening access to other places in Hebei
will undoubtedly boost tourist numbers to
an extent, it may have little impact on the
most sizeable group of outside sightseers —
Beijingers.
But despite the city’s reputation as a summer getaway, in 2013 the service industries
accounted for less than one-third of the economy, according to the Chengde Statistical
Bureau, which puts farming at 16.5 percent
and heavy industry at 51.1 percent. Stray from
the imperial attractions and you find a sprawling three-and-half million-person urban area,
littered with factories and distribution warehouses. Indeed, the immediate skyline behind
the amusement park is dominated by cooling
towers that billow foreboding fumes into the
afternoon sky.
Elsewhere, the areas away from the
Summer Resort appear largely residential,
with new housing developments alluding
to Western luxury and boasting titles like
Beverly Hills and Tuscany. As with many of
the places we visit, Chengde seems to be expecting an influx. But from where?
Critics of increased intergration have expressed fears that creating a Beijing-TianjinHebei megalopolis would only serve to attract more migrants from elsewhere in China
rather than relieving overpopulation in the
capital.
We find one such example in a Xinjiang
restaurant on the west side of the city. Li
Feng, 21, moved to Chengde from Beijing
with his best friend last month for a more
comfortable life. Originally from Gansu, Li
spent three years working in a restaurant in
Beijing’s Xidan area and renting a basement
in Fengtai District for a few hundred yuan
each month.
“Beijing is good but everybody wants
to have a share of the good life,” says Li. “It
turned out to be a very harsh life for me.
What I earned in Beijing is not enough to
rent an apartment. While here, I pay about
1,000 yuan and can afford a nice apartment
with good air. Plus the work is not busy. I
think more people will make the same decision and move here in the future.” p
46
Cover Story
Xinglong
兴隆
Happy Hardcore
T
he power stations adorned with neon
lights on the road to Xinglong should
have hinted at the mild lunacy that
would reveal itself in the city by day. Because
although it is barely past 8am, the sound of
happy hardcore (one of the more demented
genres of dance music) is pumping relentlessly through the main parade. Yet people are
going about their business as normal, seemingly unaware of the contradiction between
their mundane morning stroll and the intense
rave soundtrack that accompanies it.
The square is markedly oblong and largely empty, though the surrounding streets are
lively enough. A butcher lays out raw meat
on the back of a motorized tricycle alongside
vendors selling walnuts (a local specialty) and
loose, dried tobacco (a rarity on the streets
of northern China). Their corner of the city
is not as dilapidated as the old town through
which we enter. But the smell of urine — so
gloriously absent in our journey thus far — returns in short bursts, momentarily revealing
itself at alley openings before being masked
once more by wafts of street food.
As we enter the final leg of our trip, it
seems fitting that Xinglong feels the most like
being back in Beijing. Urban scowls pass us
through a filter of what appears to be toxic
smog; plastic bottles are stacked and prepared
for recycling; loud looped voices advertise
their wares through crackled speakers.
After five days of leniency toward police
registration, we are forced to stay in one of
only two hotels permitted to accept foreign-
Moving down a narrow street to escape
from the noise, we meet 53-year-old “Walnut”
Liu, a handyman who repairs shoes, buttons,
zippers and keys. But he is more famous in
the town as an expert on the walnuts that
grow wild in the nearby mountains.
Although Xinglong is rich in nuts of all
varieties, it is the wild walnut – rough, thick
and dark – for which it is well known. Above
Liu’s tool kit are two such specimens, claimed
by Liu to be worth RMB1,000 for the pair.
“I never think about my future. It’s
too complicated and who knows
what will happen, even tomorrow?”
ers (our laowai tax does not provide WiFi,
though facilities include table tennis and an
ominous-sounding ‘disinfection chamber’).
Nonetheless, we are still far enough away
from the capital’s corporate gaze for an ‘Apple’
clothes store and two fake McDonalds to
stand shamelessly in the heart of town. Inside
one of the latter (which even has a low-quality
reprint of the fast food chain’s menu) we find
23-year-old Liang Ce who knows nothing
about the Seventh Ring Road. He seems utterly disinterested in its potential impact and,
more generally, his own future.
“I never think about my future. It’s too
complicated and who knows what will happen, even tomorrow?” he says.
“At first finding nice walnuts and selling
them to people was just a habit. But now,
word has spread and rich businessmen from
Beijing seek me out – they like to grind the
walnuts in their hands to relieve stress,” says
Liu, as he fixes a woman’s jacket zipper for
a comparatively paltry RMB5. “But still my
main job is repairing things. As life improves,
fewer people ask for repairs – they’d rather
buy something new instead.”
Liu is worried about the future. He can’t
walk without the aid of a crutch due to polio.
“I’ve spent ten years applying to the local government for disability allowance, but
they always tell me: ‘There are other people
ahead of you – more important people – who
Residents of Xinglong go about their morning business to the sound of intense rave music
we can’t reject’. But most of these important
people aren’t disabled – one of them owns
two cars!”
We express surprise that a healthy person
would knowingly steal money from the disabled. Liu looks on scornfully, “You are from
the city. You’re educated and idealistic. You
can’t understand the cruel game in poorer
Chinese cities like Xinglong.”
Not everyone shares Liu’s pessimism,
however. Just as the physical beauty of the
Ring’s northern stretch belies its poverty, the
grimaces and glumness of Xinglong disguise
a certain positivity about life in the city. Many
who we speak with praise the quality of life
and, in particular, the clean air. This is not
pollution hanging over us today, we are told,
but simply a mountain fog that the area is
renowned for.
As if to further remind us that appearances can be deceptive, a doorway leading
from the square takes us away from crazed
thumping techno music to a tranquil, debrisstrewn atrium where a middle-aged man is
teaching two children to play the erhu (a twostringed fiddle).
The peaceful interlude is shattered as we
pass back onto the road. A hard dance remix
of the ‘Crazy Frog’ song has commenced and
it is difficult to know whether to laud or lament this as a possible future for small cities
like Chicheng, that we visited earlier.
Ultimately however, creating urban areas
in Hebei that people actually want to live in
is the biggest challenge facing government
planners if they are to reduce the pressure on
Beijing. With its coming transport infrastructure and apparent quality of life, Xinglong
47
might be the very model of a city to lure migrants away from the capital.
Its existing residents also have much to
gain from the Seventh Ring. Not least because
the roads entering and leaving the city are the
most dangerous we encounter; the former for
their lack of streetlights, the latter for their
lack of asphalt (and the mountain drop that
awaits those who misjudge it).
After successfully navigating said perils,
the final leg of our journey through Sanhe
and Pinggu sees the last vestiges of green give
way to Beijing’s urban sprawl. We pull over
at a dusty truck stop. It is these men whose
daily lives will be most affected by the Ring
Road, in a physical sense at least.
“I hope with the Seventh Ring Road it will
be less crowded,” says 47-year-old Ma Huijun
as he makes repairs to his truck. A Sanhe native, Ma has been transporting goods from
Beijing to nearby cities in Hebei for 20 years.
He tells us how, before the creation of the
Sixth Ring Road, the journey which now takes
three hours could take up to two days.
“Highways are the blood vessels of an
economy. I believe it’s the wisest thing to
invest money in.”
Our return to the familiarity of Beijing
brings into perspective the sheer variety of
what we have encountered. The route of the
Seventh Ring Road passes through fertile
mountains and expansive farmland, impoverished villages and thriving cities. But perhaps most varied are the views of the people
whose lives will be affected. They express
optimism, cynicism, indifference and, often,
a complete lack of awareness about what the
road may bring.
Many of the stops on our journey look set
to benefit from increased links with Beijing, a
city upon which they heavily rely. The industry, investment and opportunity that could
flow toward them may transform the lives
of people for whom the capital is currently
a drain.
For others whose isolation has thus far
proven beneficial, the prospects could be less
encouraging. What’s more, if the BeijingTianjin-Hebei megalopolis only serves to
move all that is undesirable out of Beijing, it
will be those living along the road’s route that
bear the burden.
The plan ultimately revolves around the
need to relieve the unsustainable pressures on
the capital. What is less clear is whether the
surrounding areas become mutual beneficiaries or necessary victims of Beijing’s growth. p
g
A more complete version
of this feature, including many more images
and nine short documentary videos,
will be available online in the coming weeks.
Visit www.online.thatsmags.com or
follow us on Twitter @thats_beijing for more details.
grapevine
nibbles
Marathons, often painful ordeals
for thousands, are something
that tend to eliminate fine dining
not encourage it. Or rather, we
thought they were, until we
heard about the Marathon du
Médoc in France, where racers
pass scenic vineyards and refuel
with oysters and fine wine. With
that in mind (and less tenuous
thematic ideas for this column
most definitely not) we present
a gastronomic endurance race
right here in Beijing.
As well as an obligatory
carbo-boosting roadside jian
bing (or as they call it in France,
un crêpe… or as they might call
it at the new El Gran Bocado
Shunyi, el taco), we’d load up
on pizza at new Fangjia Hutong
joint Ramo. Nali Patio’s Mosto
will get bypassed for now as it
temporarily closes in October
for a makeover, but nearby
Union Bar and Grille has
reopened post-refurb. Speaking
of American, the Corner Melt’s
grilled cheese sandwiches are
back, and it’s gone all Bansky by
tagging up the walls of its new
digs on Xingfucun.
For hydration, forget wine
– beer is Beijing’s alcoholic
energy drink of choice. The
(see p55) should feature, as
might the upcoming Great Leap
Invitational Craft Beer Festival
in November. Pitstops at Jing-A’s
new taproom in Sanlitun’s 1949
Courtyard (p63), will include all
their beers and some top pub
grub. Local brewers Panda have
birthed a gleaming new brewpub
in Beixinqiao – worth a look.
Something stronger might
be needed for the final few
kilometers, and with baijiu’s
recent mini-resurgence, we’d
go for Capital Spirits (see
opposite) or Oriental Lounge
(p59). A Craft Baijiu Festival in
2015? Maybe, but we predict
home-distilled gin will be the
next big trend. You heard it here
first. WP
p i c k o f t h r e e : H a i ry C r a b d i s h e s
DIN TAI FUNG
WU LI XIANG
SHANGHAI MIN
DTF’s crabs are sourced from the
famous Yancheng Lake, before
being wrapped in their signature
xiaolongbao dumplings.
The Traders Upper East Hotel’s
flagship restaurant serves a range
of hairy crab dishes, including a
stir-fried variety with asparagus.
Tang dynasty poet Li Bai wrote
of the delights of this seasonal
delicacy – try the classic steamed
version at Shanghai Min.
> price tba; available late Oct/nov; din
tai fung (see listings for details)
4 8 | O c t o b e r 2 0 1 4 | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m
> prices vary; available Oct/nov; wu li Xiang
(see listings for details)
> prices tba; available Oct/nov; shanghai
min (see listings for details)
H e a d -to - H e a d
Domestic Red Bull
vs.
Imported Red Bull
Country of Origin: China.
The Challenge:
Drinking of the bulls
Country of Origin: Austria.
Price: RMB6.
Caffeine: 50mg per 250ml can (a 30ml espresso
has anywhere between 40-70mg).
Taste: Less flavor, more sugar. The Chinese hong
niu isn’t carbonated so it slips down smoother
– worth remembering if you’re a Jägerbomb
enthusiast.
Slogan: Your energy – exceeding expectations
(你的能量超乎想像).
Energy Rating: Wired. A single can provides
enough energy to reply to 76 letters-to-the-editor
in a single sitting.
Price: RMB14.
Caffeine: 50mg per 250ml can (it also has
1,000mg of taurine, ten times the amount of the
Chinese version).
Taste: Fruitier and fizzier. The imported beverage
is more palatable but it still tastes like liquefied
gummy bears on steroids. Vodka helps.
Slogan: Red Bull gives you wings.
Energy Rating: Extreme. 30 minutes after
drinking we have a sudden urge to paraglide out
of our office window.
Verdict
The two Red Bulls taste very similar indeed. But when the need for a borderline-unhealthy dose of
caffeine and sugar is needed we’ll seek out the imported option, despite the cost. WP
S O U NDBITE
ba rt i sa n s
“Eat more seafood
and fewer instant
noodles”
In Bartisans, Beijing’s best barmen and women introduce a
drink of their choice. This month: Capital Spirits’ Bill Isler.
billion
... is the total value (in RMB) of online sales
of alcohol in China during 2013, according to
China Alcoholic Drinks Association, which is
almost double the amount in 2012.
Lanzhou Beef Noodles Originated in Henan
A newspaper has sparked controversy by claiming that Lanzhou beef noodles,
which are ubiquitous in hole-in-the-wall restaurants all over China, actually
originated in Bo’ai County, Henan. New information uncovered by Henan
Business Daily suggests that a student in the province, Chen Weijing, first
created the hand-pulled noodles during the reign of Qing dynasty emperor
Jiaqing (1796-1820). It then claims the dish traveled hundreds of miles to
Lanzhou, Gansu, when Chen’s classmate Ma Liuqi, a Gansu native, learnt of the
recipe. In what is undoubtedly one of the biggest shocks in the world of wheatbased staple foodstuffs since China claimed to have invented pasta, netizens are
said to be outraged. Bosses at famous Lanzhou beef noodle chain, Mijia, aren’t
fazed though, boasting “[the dish] may have first been made in Henan, but after
it came to Lanzhou it was greatly improved upon.”
photo by noemi cassanelli
... was the advice President Xi Jinping urged Chinese tourists
to adhere to when traveling abroad. The president was
adressing an audience in the Maldives, which can expect
400,000 mainland tourists next year.
The Drink. We ask barman Bill Isler, who first tasted
baijiu in 2000, which cocktail he recommends: “Well,
we’ve just dialed the baijiu sour recipe, or you could try
the crab island iced tea – but as first timers you should
really go for ‘The Intro Flight’ – an introduction to the
four major styles (like a Greatest Hits of baijiu).” Not
many westerners know such variation exists: “comparing
different types is like comparing gin and vodka.”
Tasting Notes. The first baijiu in the flight is GuiLin
SanHua (Guangxi, 38% ABV). Since it’s a rice baijiu it
tastes like a strong saké. Slips down easily and we predict
sterner tests are to come. Next up is XingHuaCun Fenjiu
(Shanxi, 53% ABV). It has the prettiest bottle, but the
fieriest taste, despite being described as ‘light’.
The third is the ‘strong’ category: WuLiangChun
(Sichuan, 45% ABV). We’re struggling to find ways to
describe the flavor when Bill steps in: “It’s made in
hundred-year-old earthen pits which are full of bacteria.
That’s why it tastes a bit like strong blue cheese.” It does,
but don’t let that deter – strong blue cheese is no bad
thing. Finally we have MouTai Prince (Guizhou, 53% ABV)
in the ‘sauce’ category. It’s not our favorite, but we finish
and are rewarded with… another shot of baijiu. Ganbei.
The Bar. Four friends – including long-time China
residents, former bar owners and an award-winning
vodka distiller – opened Capital Spirits, which they run
after their day jobs. It was borne not only through a
respect for baijiu culture, but also because they wanted to
create an authentic, foreigner-accessible Chinese drinking
experience. There’s not a whiff of a cheap gimmick and
the small hutong space is beautifully decorated. “You don’t
need to be an expert to enjoy it, in the same way that not
every westerner who drinks whisky is an expert.” Chinese
beers (and plenty of water) also available. WP
> the intro flight is available at capital spirits, rmb40; tue-sun 8pmlate; 3 da Ju hutong, dongcheng 东城区大菊胡同3号 (10 6409 3319;
www.capitalspiritsbj.com)
e at & drink | restaur a n t s
PADANG
South-East Asian
Persuasion
by W i l l P h i l i p p s
Dining at a top restaurant is about much more
than just the food on your plate. In Beijing, think
Capital M, Temple Restaurant, and – dare we say it –
Starbucks: setting is key. It’s all about matching the
mood to the food, while the right interior creates
character, atmosphere and even a recognizable
brand. It can also house a small wildlife sanctuary,
if you so desire.
And so we have Padang. Sometimes you think
you know every little nook, cranny and oddity in
your neighborhood, and then something like this
suddenly leaps from the bushes. Padang is the
largest city on the west coast of the Indonesian
island of Sumatra, and its eponymous Beijing
restaurant might be the largest in town. (Official
accolades include making the top 50 restaurants,
ranked by atmosphere, on Chinese listings website
Dianping. And that’s out of 96,708.) It’s located in
the Shimao Department Store on Gongti Bei Lu and
was set up by a local businessman who fell in love
with Indonesian cuisine on frequent trips there.
Before we see Padang, we hear it: the chirping
of dozens of caged parakeets welcoming guests
through the door. The interior has a kind of palatialbanquet-hall-meets-rainforest-eco-lodge vibe,
complete with reptile house accoutrements. On a
between-course safari, we spot a crocodile, flying
fish, a tarantula, a few snakes and some jellyfish.
They’re not on the menu, though.
What is on the menu is a huge range of
authentic Sumatran dishes. Highlight is the beef
rendang (RMB118), cooked for four hours with
coconut and lemongrass. It’s spicy – like Thai and
Malaysian – but oilier than those neighboring
cuisines (which should please many Chinese
palates). Not in a heavy, slimy way, however –
more a tinned tuna refined oiliness way. Then we
order the ikan bakar colo colo grilled fish (mainly
because we want to say it out loud), a dish thats
exuberance manages to trump even the decor,
given that it successfully marries good taste with
its eye-catching appearance. The nasi goreng
seafood pineapple rice (RMB58, left) and beef satay
(RMB58) complete the set of Padang classics.
Yet the most memorable part of the evening
is our adventure to find the bathroom. We are led
down a leafy corridor, which must be at least 50
meters in length. Reaching the end, we start to
hear some commotion. Peering our heads round
a corner, half expecting to see a caged rhino, we
in fact see a full-blown wedding ceremony taking
place. They’ll probably be honeymooning in some
other wing of this maze-like venue.
We arrive back ten minutes later and cool off
with a happy soda (RMB26), a combination cherry
and apple fruit juice, condensed milk and Sprite,
obviously. Thankfully alcohol is available, which you
might need to deal with the sensory overload of the
wildly eccentric Padang.
daily 10am-10pm, 3f shimao department store, gongti bei lu,
chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯工体北路世茂广场3层 (6409 4988)
restaur a n t s | e at & drink
FACTORY
Conveyor Belt Cuisine
What’s the idea behind FACTORY?
With FACTORY we wanted to create more than just a
restaurant – it’s a center for food. On top of a rotating setmenu lunch venue, we have a catering service and a big
open kitchen space for workshops and events.
What’s the biggest challenge for a catering business?
Everyone demands so much for such a low price! With
catering, clients tell us their budget and then we come
up with the menu to fit that. In a restaurant it’s the
complete opposite. And since food is often prepared onsite at events, you have to deal with a lack of equipment
and resources: no utensils, no sink, no running water.
You have to take so much with you – it’s a bit like going
camping. It’s less about being creative, more about
survival.
Since the closure of their previous venture
SALT, executive chef Camila Betin and her team
have upped sticks to 798 for a new challenge.
Located in an old military factory, it’s an intimate
restaurant by day and city-wide catering service
by night, with the occasional cooking workshop or
competition thrown in for good measure.
What’s the secret to hosting a great dinner party?
Know your guests. Ask them what they like to eat. People
like attention, so don’t spend all your time in the kitchen.
Working in a smaller restaurant like FACTORY I’ve come
to realize that. I can actually get out among the guests,
talk to them and hear what they have to say.
Tell us about the cuisine.
I source most of the ingredients depending on the season
and what I find in the local markets, so the lunch set
menu changes each month. I’m Brazilian and my cooking
background is mainly Italian but overall it’s simply
contemporary. There’s a touch of Asian but it’s not fusion
– it’s freestyle. One of my favorites is pumpkin and
lemongrass mousseline with seared scallops and coconut
foam. And our black cod with potato, chorizo and Spanish
beans has been popular.
Why 798?
If we’d gone to an area like Sanlitun, we’d have just
been another restaurant among all the crowds. We’re
offering something a bit different and that suits 798, an
art district where an offbeat dining scene is developing.
Plus, this area is about creation and production and
we’re housed in an old military factory – it fits. There is
a craftsmanship to what we do, but it’s simple. I’m not
interested in molecular gastronomy, I want food that
looks like food.
factOry is open for lunch and offers catering to all levels
of parties and events; a1, north business building, 797
middle street, 798 art Zone a, 2 Jiuxianqiao lu, chaoyang 朝
阳区酒仙桥路2号789艺术区797中街(近商务楼北楼一层1号) (5762
6451; www.factorycateringbeijing.com)
Events manager, Luciana Lamantea, and executive chef, Camila Betin, pictured outside FACTORY
Saboten
Home Comforts
photos by noemi cassanelli
Would you be surprised to hear that some of the best comfort
food for homesick Westerners can be found at Japanese
restaurant Saboten? We stumble across this chain when our
dear, aged and somewhat blinkered parents are visiting China.
After six days of culinary experimentation, they are in need of
something “crisp, not oily and consisting of animal parts not
discernable from their outlines.”
We don’t do fast food, thank you very much, so it is the
unlikely combination of Saboten’s tonkatsu pork cutlets with
rice and shredded cabbage salad that comes to the rescue.
The chain first opened in 1966 and has over 500 branches
worldwide. We visit a Taikoo Li South branch, one of three in
Beijing (additional branches can be found in Wangfujing and
the Parkview Green mall.) The restaurant’s resplendent display
of fake food models in the window confirms its suitability:
the 5-foot tall display of innocuous-looking breaded meat and
boiled rice beckon us in with an alluring plainness.
The main event is the loin set (RMB78). It’s a sliced pork
cutlet in breadcrumbs, accompanied by white rice, miso soup
and a large bowl of cabbage. If moisture is a must, there’s a
pestle and mortar full of sesame seeds to crush into some
thick vinegary sauce – but we suggest the truly homesick
forgo the accompaniment. It’s a meal of recognizable textures,
monochrome palates and distinctly uncomplicated dining.
Unexciting to some, maybe, but we find it immensely satisfying.
It’s what your school canteen wishes it could have prepared
but never came anywhere close.
There’s a more zesty raddish tenderloin (RMB74, above),
or a claypot-style tenderloin katsuni with egg and soy sauce
(RMB68). The truly adventurous might go for Saboten’s hotpot
(RMB98-135) but that would be like ordering the french fries
at a Chinese takeaway. The kushiage options (yakitori-like
breadcrumbed chuan’r) include scallop (RMB12), asaparagus
with bacon (RMB10) and lotus root with minced pork (RMB8)
– all recommended. Unusually for a visit to a Japanese
restaurant there’s almost no foodstuff we’re unacquainted with
on the menu, save perhaps for a can of lychee beer.
Comfort levels are high when the bill is ordered – enough
even to entertain the idea of a lamb-spine hotpot lunch the
next day. In fact, a little later research reveals (and perhaps we
should have realized this earlier on) tonkatsu was invented at
the turn of the 20th century in Japan as an attempt to recreate
the European cuisine of former colonialist occupiers. Credit
where it’s due then – it has passed the ‘homesick parent test’
with flying colors, as good an endorsement as any, we feel. Take
note, all you Chinese ‘Western-style bakeries’.
daily 10am-10pm; slg21a-2 sanlitun taikoo li south, 19 sanlitun lu,
chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区slg21a-2 (6417 0533)
fe at ure | e at & drink
Tribe
The Noble Savage
by St e p h e n G e o rg e
Tribe, get it? It’s hip, in an agrarian, non-industrialized ironic kind of
way. An upscale organic deli, whose name hints at a pre-state society,
where everyone trades freshly-picked berries and eats super grains.
In the East, as well as the West, tribal societies remain indelibly
bound – for better or worse – to varying notions of savagery and
mysticism. They are enigmatic worlds beyond our ken, untouched by
modern civilization. To understand them is to be a sage. The fact that
cafes and restaurants are now in the business of selling that concept
– specifically the idea of ultra-healthy, exotic foodstuffs – back to
urban consumers at premium prices is telling. Beijing, a city in thrall
to environment-be-damned urban development, has become home
in recent months to a number of eco-friendly organic delis – each
with its own pseudo-aspirational message of culinary redemption.
But how do you know if you belong in the tribe – what are the
signifiers? (A secret handshake, maybe?) And more importantly, how
do you go about joining? (By completing an initiation ritual that sees
you leave polite society and wander, semi-naked and alone, through
the edges of Fengtai District awaiting The Vision, perhaps?)
Having ventured into Tribe – a two story New York-style wood
paneled salad bar cafe and loft space – it appears that induction
involves spending somewhere in the region of RMB100 on a kale
salad and a freshly pressed juice, while basking in the warm,
conceited glow that comes from knowing that you are Eating Well.
The large chalkboard menu is split into three distinct sections: salads
(RMB48 to RMB68), wraps and sandwiches (RMB45 to RMB78), and
noodle and grain bowls (RMB48 to RMB68).
We tried the Tribe house salad, a well-proportioned, exceedingly
colorful mix of Peruvian quinoa, kale, orange, fennel, hummus and
pistachio, with chili citrus vinaigrette (RMB52), while the sizable
lamb meatball sandwich, with feta cheese, hummus and carrot-slaw
on “sprouted seven grain” bread (RMB68) is a dish that, according
to Tribe’s ‘Glossary of Goodness’ contains a ‘Vitamin Load’ (of what
exactly, we’re not sure).
Both dishes proved wholly satisfying, though as is the case with
so much ‘healthy food’, it’s often easier to say what it wasn’t – greasy,
processed, sugary – than what it was. But Tribe, like its namesakes
the world over, stands in opposition to the other – in this case, mass
produced, prepackaged foodstuffs – and that is no bad thing.
Advertising Hotline
daily 10:30am-10:30pm; 2 gongti dong lu, chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路3号 (8587 1899)
MOSAIC
Ode to Autumnal Shawarmas
by O s c a r Ho l l a n d
“Winter is an etching, spring a watercolor, summer an oil painting
and autumn a mosaic of them all.”
This short, slightly nauseating poem appeared in a 1983 issue
of the influential literary journal Reader’s Digest, no doubt nestled
between the latest housekeeping tips and an implausible couragein-the-face-of-adversity tale featuring a heroic dog. The poet in
question, a certain Stanley Horowitz, doesn’t even have a Wikipedia
page. Yet somehow his 18-word saccharine opus has spread like
some benign virus.
Instagram memes, inspirational fridge magnets and a public
park in Arizona now all bear his seasonal observations. This alone
should make them instantly detestable. But we should never be too
proud to admit when a cutesy, seemingly vacuous saying holds true.
Because it possesses particular relevance in Beijing. Sure,
winter is more of an impressionist ice carving than an etching, and
summer more resembles a sweaty body painting than oil on canvas.
But autumn genuinely is a mosaic. So combine the fact that Mosaic
is also a Middle Eastern bar-slash-restaurant in Sanlitun with the
realization that it is now very much autumn, and by some warped
logic you should conclude that this is probably a good time to eat
shawarmas.
Enter Ashi and Jenny, the establishment’s co-owners who
provide the perfect spot to do just that. Although open for about
a year, Mosaic is coming into season. Not only is its outdoor patio
furnished with comfortable seats on which to enjoy the last al fresco
dinners of the year, but their wraps are also superb.
Have a shawarma platter of the chicken variety (three for the
most affordable sum of RMB58, with fries to boot), which sees
marinated meat grilled and rolled into a tender package with some
tangy sauce. The wraps themselves are lightly toasted (mitigating
the perennial threat of sogginess) and the accompanying garlic dip
is as moreish as a group of medieval North Africans.
The menu, and indeed the owners, remain guarded about the
exact ingredients of all the sauces. All power to them. We probably
wouldn’t go blabbing about it either.
Elsewhere, the culinary offerings are as authentic as you’ll find
in the city (as prepared by the restaurant’s bona fide Syrian chef).
The standout classics include hummus (RMB28, or RMB35 with
little chunks of lamb) which is served at a near-perfect consistency;
falafel (RMB42); and a fattoush salad with wonderful little bites of
crispy bread (RMB32, all pictured above).
The inspiration for the establishment’s name apparently
came from the variety of food found across the Middle East. It
seems fitting therefore, that there is some fusion on offer too. The
shawarma burrito (RMB52) may be even better than the original,
and why has no-one thought about putting shawarma on a pizza
(RMB65) until now?
Interior-wise, we find the expected regional stylings but as
renovations are imminent we shan’t dwell. All you need to know is
that the well-stocked bar and shisha pipes will live on. An insulated
patio is also on the way, so winter may very well be a mosaic this
year as well.
daily, midday-2am; rm 102, Unit 1, 32 sanlitun south, chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南
32号1单元102室 (137 1883 7065)
I nt e r v i e w by W i l l P h i l i p p s
China is a nation of beer lovers – pure
and simple. This country drinks a higher
quantity of beer than anyone else and Snow
is the world’s biggest selling brand. But
that’s mass-produced lager – the craft beer
industry is still very much in its infancy.
“That’s our aim with this festival,” says
Chandler Jurinka, founder of Slow Boat
Brewery and driving force behind October’s
festival, the first his team has organized
in Beijing. “We’re hoping it will add value
to the market, as Beijing and China-based
brewers are looking to establish themselves.
As brewers, we need to work closer together
and this festival will aid that.” But that’s
only one side of it. “The vast majority of
beer drinkers in China think in very simple
terms. This festival and its 50 beers will be
introducing craft beer to a new generation of
drinkers.”
Over October 10 and 11, (the traditional
harvest season and a great time of year for
brewers) the festival hopes to attract over
5,000 ale enthusiasts through its doors, with
12 independent breweries from all over
China, food supplied by nine independent
chefs and kitchens (see below), and music
provided by local bands and DJs. But Jurinka
adds that it’s more than just a garden party –
it’s a celebration of entrepreneurial spirit.
“We want the focus to be on China so
we’re only bringing in China-based brewers.
This won’t be like festivals abroad where you
have 700 different beers. I know all these
guys; we’ve bootstrapped these businesses
ourselves and we’ve bitched about the
same employment problems. For us, every
time a new beer comes out the tank it’s like
Christmas. If you look at the festival that way,
this is like Christmas times twelve.”
But as Jurinka himself admits, most of
these companies were set up by foreigners
and only 40 percent of visitors are expected
to be Chinese. Can it compete with lager
culture? “Accompaniment of food is part
and parcel of Chinese drinking culture and
the Snows and Tsingtaos suit that. But 40
percent of women in northern China drink
beer – a huge number. Most locals that come
into our taproom claim they don’t like bitter
but they love the IPAs. They simply haven’t
been baptized into it – in the same way we
drank mass-market lager when we were
young and thought ‘This is crap!’ but then
later tried craft beer and found something
more interesting. But at the festival there’ll
be a beer for everyone and heads will be
swimming with all sorts of different flavors
that they didn’t even know existed before.”
Disparity in cost between a humble 3.2
percent Shandong lager and an Americanstyle imperial IPA might deter some, but the
Slow Boat captain argues his case: “Craft
beer is a labor intensive process; we use the
highest quality malts, and hard-to-source
ingredients. And all that yeast – it’s so much
healthier than the mass-produced stuff; we
never use chemicals. But above all: the flavor.
There’ll be something for everyone at this
festival and the chance to try something you
can’t get anywhere else in the world.”
For the uninitiated, then, some words
of advice: “Drink the least bitter beers (like
IPAs) last, as they can destroy the palette.
Always check the ABV, anything above 8
percent is very strong so don’t go downing it
like water. And above all, don’t rock up with a
bottle of Yanjing.”
e at & drink | Fe at ure
Beijing Homebrewing Society
NB Craft Brewing Company
NB has one of the largest bottled beer selections
in the capital, from obscure, RMB2,000-per-bottle
imports, to Tibetan red ale and local faves like
Jing-A. But owner Yin Hai is most passionate about
his own brewing operations at his Xicheng bar,
where the team can even show you, step-by-step,
how to brew your own.
The home for homebrewers in Beijing, from
first-timers to professionals, this society
meets bi-weekly to promote beer culture,
discuss techniques and invent wacky flavors.
Meetings take place in English or Chinese, but
all are united by a common language: beer.
Brewer’s choice: Gongbao Porter, 5-6% ABV
A brewer called Yob concocted this beer –
hints of cucumber and peanut.
Brewer’s choice: NB Beijing Pumpkin Ale 3-4% ABV
A pint of fresh pumpkin, four Chinese spices and sheer brewing
passion.
iBrew Homebrew
Beers and Ciders
18 Brewery
18 Brewery is the home of great
beer in Wuhan, where owner
Wanda has committed himself to
providing the city’s loyal drinkers
with 200 different kinds of craft
beer as well as its own brewery.
The team also hold homebrewing
competitions at the bar for the local
community.
This one-man microbrewery has an impressive
repertoire for such a small operation. Specializing
in fruit beers and ciders, iBrew (aka Brandon
Fisher) honed his craft with the Beijing
Homebrewing Society. His Bad Apple cider won
first place at this year’s Beijing Craft Beer Festival
in the cider division.
Brewer’s choice: Honey Alt, 5-6% ABV
Combines German-style altbier with honey to balance a sweet but
hoppy flavor.
Brewer’s choice: Summer Ale 5-6% ABV
Drink in the last of the summer – rich fruit
flavors and long-lasting freshness.
Boxing Cat Brewery
Brewmaster Michael Jordan has been
pulling pints at this American-style
brewery and restaurant in Shanghai since
2008. Using only the highest quality malt
and hops, his multi-award winning beers
range from experimental coffee bean and
tealeaf brews to old-fashioned European
lagers and hoppy American pale ales.
Brewer’s choice: Sucker Punch Pale Ale, 5.5% ABV
Gold medal winner at International Beer Cup in Japan.
Fruity and refreshing.
Chengdu Harvest Brewing Co.
Former electronic musician Wang Rui founded
this brewery in 2010. In four years, it has
developed from a 200-liter capacity operation
to a factory with an annual output of 600 tons.
Wang’s approach to beer is like his music –
delicate, elegant and with a focus on quality, not
quantity – the reason they only create one or two
new ales each year.
Brewer’s choice: Hoppy Weizen 5% ABV Strong German wheat
beer, vigorous with a complex flavor.
Nanjing Craft
Brewing Company
China’s first licensed craft brewery. Set
up by the inimitable Gao Yan in 2008, he’s
produced a range of recognizable China
brews, including Master Gao, Mad Ting
and Baby IPA, the latter holding the world
record for the highest priced beer sold at
auction. Having penned the only Chinese
language book on the subject, few have
been as important at promoting craft beer
culture in China than Gao.
Brewer’s choice: Baby IPA, 6% ABV
Bestseller in China – lightly hopped with a malty
sweetness. Essential drinking.
Jing-A Brewing
At the core of Jing-A’s brewing philosophy
is “you should never settle for mediocre
beer.” Nor should you settle for boring beer,
as every concoction dreamt up by brewers
Alex and Kristian is as eye-catching as it is
thirst-quenching. From the pollution-inspired
Airpocalypse, to the Mandarin Summer Wheat
– it’s China through-and-through.
Brewer’s choice: Guizhou Smoked Chili Porter, 5.5% ABV
Contains beechwood-smoked malt and smokin’ hot chili
peppers from Guizhou.
Great Leap Brewing
Beijing’s Great Leap was founded in 2010 with “an
aim to foster a Chinese brewing culture.” It wants
to present a growing beer-drinking market with
creative, local creations that are inherently and
proudly Chinese. The majority of ingredients are
locally produced, while the hops, teas, spices, coffees
– even fruits and vegetables – are 100 percent local.
Brewer’s choice: Imperial Pumpkin Ale, 7.8% ABV
Full-bodied ale made with fresh, local pumpkin and delicately spiced
with cinnamon.
Slow Boat Brewery
A family-run brewery and now largescale distributor, Slow Boat is on tap and
in bottle at venues throughout Beijing
and Shanghai. The brand set sail in 2009
when founders Chandler Jurinka and
Daniel Herbert met and bonded over a
love of their native US beers. They serve
17 types of good honest ale, and are
bringing eight or nine to their inaugural
beer fest.
Brewer’s choice: Triple IPA, 9% ABV
It‘s tempting to choose the Imperial Pumpkin Stout,
but this new Triple IPA is off the charts.
Calvin Beer Company
This brewery started the way many
others do in China – with two expats
making up for a lack of quality beer by
brewing their own. Wisconsin-native
brewmaster Calvin Jameson turned
the hobby into a full-scale operation
in 2013, making “a mix of American,
Belgian and German beers – or just
whatever we love to drink.”
Brewer’s choice: Bourbon Barrel Porter 9% ABV
Rich and heavy – perfect for colder weather.
Strong Ale Works
Based in the spiritual home of Chinese beer, Strong
Ale Works has been educating the palates of Qingdao’s
beer drinkers since 2011. Owner John Herrington
brews high quality pale ales, IPAs, stouts and
smoked beers – served fresh and cold, using the best
ingredients. Just don’t mention that watery, greenbottled filth they call Ts*ngtao!
Brewer’s choice: Double Hoppiness, 6.8% ABV
The logo (苦苦 ) means ‘double bitter’ – expect some bite with this one.
CULIANG RENJIA
粗粮人家
A Thing of the Past
by O s c a r Ho l l a n d , a d d i t i o n a l e a t i n g by W i l l P h i l i p p s
Decor
What do a brass bugle, an antique drinking
flask and a huge mural of people playing
mahjong have in common? To us – very
little. But if you grew up in 1970s rural
China, they’re all relics of childhood
nostalgia that now feature prominently
at Maoist retro-restaurant Culiang Renjia.
Symbolizing the rural, we find huge
agricultural tires in the place of lampshades,
plastic crops and vegetables hanging from
a thatched ceiling and a life-size tractor,
which – to our childish delight – can be sat
upon for photographs.
On the nostalgia front, the two-floor
space is littered with vestiges of the past –
old newspapers line the walls championing
‘Chairman Mao, the red sun in our hearts’
and instead of table numbers there are
patriotic slogans like ‘The East is Rising’. For
added authenticity, our cup and bowl are
made of tin and decorated with little-redbook-wielding workers looking satisfied
with their lot.
Forty years ago a revolution was most
certainly not a dinner party, but these days,
a dinner at Culiang Renjia comes highly
recommended for anybody looking to
rediscover their Maoist zeal.
Menu
Food
Disclaimer: In light of the above, this is not
statistically representative of the quality of
the food.
Aside from a disanxian eggplant, potato
and bell pepper classic (RMB22, tastes
exactly as you would expect) we opt for
some selections from the throwback menu.
We allow our learned hosts to choose the
most traditional dishes on our behalf.
This decision bears mixed results.
The paigu dun doujiao (stewed pork and
green beans, RMB48) is a balanced meatand-veg combo, but the cunzhang zhaodai
cai (lit. ‘village chief entertaining guests
dish’, RMB48), with fatty pork, tofu and
eggs, offers something more substantial.
It’s the exactly the kind of hearty stew
to fill an empty stomach after a long day
showing your boundless loyalty to the
great helmsman. Sadly, the clumps of
congealed blood in the Dongbei sha zhu
cai (lit. ‘northeastern pig murder dish’
RMB38) are a little too overpowering for
these precious, modern palettes. At Culiang
Renjia earthy, stewed flavors win out over
spiced and seasoned dishes. Not all of these
choices are winners in our minds – but the
many collectives of raucous senior citizen
diners, plates stacked high and conversation
flowing, suggest we are in a minority. They
are the customers to whom words like
‘gluten free’ and ‘gastro-’ sound as related to
illnesses as they do dining.
Live animal count
Surprisingly high. The main attraction must
surely be the drift of tiny pigs sniffling
around in a pen by the restaurant’s Gui
Jie entrance. Didn’t know that ‘drift’ is the
collective noun for pigs? Well you could
be forgiven for thinking that it should be a
‘murder’ – as in a murder of crows – given
the aforementioned Dongbei pork dish. [Ed:
We have absolutely no evidence that the pen
leads directly to a hongshao rou chef]. There
are also goldfish inside, but they pale into
insignificance compared to actual pigs. Both
prove difficult to touch.
Drinks
We ask for the most traditional beverage
and are provided with a jug of what can
only be described as a date smoothie. It is
disconcertingly viscous – the sort of highfiber drink that our mothers would describe
as ‘binding’. This is probably a poor choice
of restaurant to visit with a date. Because it
will end up being blended and served in a
drink [Ed: you’re fired].
daily 11am-5am, 5 dongzhimen nei, dongcheng 东城
区东直门内大街5号 (5129 0123 ext.5)
The offering at Culiang Renjia, a gargantuan
patchwork of photos that take up an entire
wall, can be broadly divided into two
categories: 1970s throwback classics and
standard pan-China fare. But a quick backof-a-cigarette-packet calculation reveals that
(given the magnitude of dishes available)
to estimate how good the restaurant’s food
is, with a 95 percent confidence interval,
would require 8.32 months’ worth of That’s
Beijing’s food budget [Editor: go away].
restaur a n t s | e at & drink
Oriental Lounge
Eastern Promises
When a gregarious Taiwanese restaurant owner with a predilection
for baijiu and other Chinese spirits invites you for a banquet, there’s
only really one way the night can end. As the owner of the Oriental
Lounge leads us to that banquet table, three shot glasses neatly
positioned in front of each place setting confirm our suspicions.
We’ve been told that Oriental Lounge is a Taiwanese bar and
restaurant, yet there’s not a single chopstick on the table. But before
any glasses are filled, we are introduced to the restaurant. It’s located
in Sanlitun SOHO, a sleek yet unloved plaza that we always feel is
better enjoyed from a distance. This is, of course, the exact opposite
of what a shopping mall should offer but Oriental Lounge gives us
reason to enter.
Luckily, chopsticks and plates soon arrive and after the first toast
of many (we’re not sure what for but it doesn’t seem to matter), we
dive in. Braised squid in mustard (RMB48, above) and three-pot
chicken (RMB42) are recommended. They both contain extremely
strong garnishes – mustard and whole garlic cloves respectively –
which battle against the hellfire and brimstone that toasting with
60% ABV liquor entails. The cuisine is mostly in typical Taiwanese
xiaochi form – plates and plates of smaller bite-sized dishes that can
be grazed through over a few hours – none too filling or heavy. We
try some peeled cherry tomatoes that have been pickled in baijiu
(RMB18), while the pork ribs (RMB48) are perhaps best suited to
less adventurous palates.
Baijiu cocktails are also available – the owner is not afraid to
market his favorite spirit in ways that might appeal to everyone
– but we think those are for the less adventurous too. “It’s not to
everyone’s taste,” our host admits. But to forgo pure baijiu is to miss
the point – you must learn to withstand the burn and appreciate the
fragrance. We’re not sure we’ll swap it for our Talisker 18 years just
yet, but every once in a while it’s important to branch out a little. At
least that is the line of thought as the fourth (or is it fifth?) bottle is
opened. The rest of the evening, as they say, is a bit of a blur.
RECRUITMENT
Shanghai Sales Manager
Job Description:
1) Report directly to the General Manager of Urbanatomy Shanghai.
2) Take full responsibility for the advertising sales performance of the
Shanghai sales team, including That’s Shanghai Magazine, Urban
Family and all digital products.
3) Devise and oversee an annual and monthly sales plan.
4) Evaluate and finalize annual advertising pricing strategies.
5) Maxmize team resources to reach annual and monthly sales
targets.
6) Recruit, train, and manage the Shanghai sales team on a
day-to-day basis.
7) Work closely and liase with the sales teams from Urbanatomy
operations in other cities.
Qualifications:
1) Strong sense of business ethics.
2) Bachelor’s degree or above.
3) Experience working in media is a major advantage.
4) Two or three years relevent managerial experience.
5) Excellent people and communication skills.
6) Fluent English skills, both oral and written.
7) Keen to take the ‘Salary Plus Commission’ structured
compensation.
Please send your CV to [email protected]
daily 11am-2am; 1123 sanlitun sOhO bldg 1, 8 gongti bei lu, chaoyang 朝阳区工体北
路8号院三里屯sOhO1号楼1123 (5785 3628)
COMMUNITY
communi t y | t iger fat her
best days of our lives
Birth of a Child or the Melbourne Cup?
by Tre v o r Ma r s h a l l s e a
“You experience an almost spiritual joy. I speak, of course,
of the day school resumes after summer holidays”
When you’re a parent, the answer to the
question “Happiest day of your life?”
becomes a no-brainer. The day my child
was born. If you have multiple kids, you’ll
put all their Delivery Days, or D-Days, in
a dead tie for first. Or at least these had
better be your answers, or you’ll get in real
trouble with your wife.
I get enough grief as it is for not crying at either of my children’s births. This
wouldn’t have been so bad, but three
months after the arrival of our first, a
champion racehorse called Makybe Diva
won Australia’s biggest race, the Melbourne Cup, for an unprecedented third
time and I was in floods of tears.
My defense was straightforward. In
the history of the world, lots of babies had
been born. No horse had ever won three
Melbourne Cups. It’s hard enough to win
one.
My main feeling at the births of Lani,
now 9, and Evie, 7, was relief. Nothing had
gone wrong.
I was extremely happy. I don’t usually
cry when I’m happy, unlike my wife
watching all those romance movies where
the ending usually arrives with a man
and a woman agreeing that they should
enter into a relationship – as predictable
as winning three Melbourne Cups is
improbable.
But while the D-Days are special, it’s
not long before they’re relegated to second
spot at the top of your list. This is when
you first experience an almost spiritual joy
you never thought you would feel. I speak,
of course, of the day school resumes after
summer holidays.
The D-Days then drop one further
place each year for the next 12, until the
kids leave home at an appropriate time,
which I currently see as being two or three
hours after they turn 18.
The resumption of school in Expatland
is different. Friends in Australia assumed
we’d be out buying new books, pencil
cases, uniforms, etc. But like a lot of expats,
it was none of the above. International
school kids don’t need uniforms or exercise
books. The pencil is almost a museum
piece.
They use laptops and they learn via
the internet. As if their handwriting
wasn’t bad enough, their desktops – and I
mean the tops of their desks – have been
turned into whiteboards. They write (well,
scrawl) on them with big felt markers.
Mind you, for the fees paid at
international schools, you should expect
the best. In fact, not to sound too colonial
about it, but at this price the kids should
each really have some sort of manservant
to tap the laptop keys for them.
The new year often brings new friends.
Expat kids tend to change friends like
socks. That’s because little friends, like
mobsters, leave the country on a regular
basis. I’ve never seen a seven-year-old turn
to another and sing that old song ‘Baby,
Baby Don’t Get Hooked On Me,’ but perhaps
they should.
In general, it’s funny what kids view
as important. And given their transient nature, expat kids perhaps have more reason
not to bother with the getting-to-knowyou niceties.
Ours think it’s hilarious how we adults
interact. Their impersonations of our
dinner parties consist of standing around
repeating “Hi, how you going?” and “Let’s
drink coffee!”
No 7-year-old has ever asked another
how they are going. Conversations are
more likely to start with the blurting out
of “I’VE GOT A BAND-AID!” or “THERE’S A
NEW DRAGON APP!”
Evie told me she had a new best friend.
When I asked something as adult-basic as
where she was from, Evie had to think long
and hard. Finally she said India. My mind
was full of exotic ideas of magnificent
dinner parties with the parents.
Then I met the friend. She had blonde
hair and blue eyes, and sounded more from
Manchester than Mumbai. It turned out
she had lived in India for a time.
Still, it’s nice that kids couldn’t care
less where people are from. It doesn’t yet
enter their heads whether their friends
are, say, from a pub culture, a place with
a similar sense of humor, or a place where
people go to the beach at 6am to reserve
their sun lounge.
These things aren’t important to kids.
What’s important are Furbies, and how
to get them. Our kids were flatly denied
by their parents. We saw Furbies as an
irritating, talking, furry toy that required
an appropriate iPad app for optimal use.
This was a mere speed bump for our
7-year-old. Evie was taken shopping for
Lani’s birthday present, not by us, but by
her aunt. And guess what she convinced
the aunt to buy?
We now have a Furby in our house
that’s not only capable of speech but, judging by the creepy way it bursts to life at
any given moment, is probably also capable of murdering us in our sleep.
I bet the plot to acquire it was hatched
in the school playground, perhaps with
that friend who was, or was not, Indian.
The child’s mind is truly an intriguing
place. I love studying it at close range.
Then I also love when it goes back to
school.
Trevor Marshallsea was a foreign correspondent in Beijing
in the 1990s and returned a decade later. This time
around he stays at home to grow the kids. Read more of
his domestic adventures at www.thetigerfather.com
fe at ure | communi t y
training day
Neil Fraser is On & Off Track Manager and Head Coach at HeyRunning, one of
China’s largest international and Chinese running communities. With the 2014
Beijing Marathon taking place this month, we thought we’d ask him to share some
training advice and what to expect on race day Sunday, October 19th.
We live in polluted city. What advice do
you have for training in high PM2.5?
If PM2.5 is over 250 we won’t train – so
take a rest day or join an indoor Heyrobics
Workout for some extra strength training.
Balancing rest days and training days
is crucial before a race. If the reading is
between 150 and 250 we might reduce the
length/intensity of the session or focus
more on strength or stride (technique)
training – less aerobic exercise, so less
heavy breathing in particulate matter. Then
if it’s less than 150 we’ll train as normal…
hard! But it’s not gospel – different runners
respond differently to the pollution. Listen
to your body and do what feels comfortable.
You’ve run the Beijing marathon before.
What’s it like?
It looks to be a similar route to previous
years. The start at Tiananmen Square and
the finish near the Olympic Park are fantastic. The rest… well it’s mostly just running
along the Third and Fourth Ring in Haidian
district. It’s not the most scenic but it’s a
part of the city I rarely visit.
The crowds of local Beijing residents
get pretty deep in places which is fun to see.
Be careful at the end though – the last 5km
is in the hilly Forest Green Park with sparse
support. But the last 1km joins the road
to the Olympic Stadium and the support is
usually fantastic.
Any advice on race day?
Fuelling yourself correctly is important. I
tend to have a carb-heavy meal at 3-4pm on
the day before, then something light in the
evening. Race day will be some fruit, maybe
a muesli bar for some sugar and slowrelease energy but nothing more than that.
Most importantly, don’t try anything
new - make sure you’ve tested your prerace meal and run in your shoes and gear
many times before. Also it gets crowded at
the start in Tiananmen. Allow yourself an
hour from arriving to the start of the race.
You’ll need the time to navigate the throngs
of runners, drop off your bags and get
warmed up. My golden rule, especially if it’s
your first time, is pace yourself carefully. If
you go too fast you won’t enjoy your race –
you want to be smiling when you cross the
line.
See you at the finish?
Maybe… I just took part in a grueling threeday adventure run in Fujian. We covered
about 55-65km per day, by running,
mountain biking, kayaking, climbing
abseiling. It was quite low-impact and not
so tiring aerobically, but it was mentally
challenging and a steep learning curve – I
came off the mountain bike a few times. The
scenery was incredible, though.
The Fall 2014 HeyRunning Camp will help up to 100 runners
of all skill levels and abilities who are either training
for the Beijing Half or Full Marathon, or just for fun. The
Camp runs until Oct 19 with up to four sessions per week
included. There’s still time to join if you’re interested –
email [email protected] for more info.
STELLA ARTOIS URBAN MOMENTS
Do you have party pictures to contribute? Send them to us at [email protected]
and we’ll run the best.
“Food Paring aFternoon Beer” Stella artoiS
X BromPton City tour
@ Beer Mania – August 30th
“the Beer Puzzle
game ” S tella a rtoiS
X BromPton City
tour
@ The Rug – August 31st
“Street KidS PreSentS
nguzunguzu”
@ Dada – September 19th
Events
OCT 1
EAT / DRINK
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Lesoir
Incredible Dutch band presents a new
brand of musical theory and mixed style.
Combined with a raging dance floor and
drinks, it’s sure to be an unforgettable
night.
> RMB50 (door), RMB40 (presale); 9pm;
Dust Dawn Club,14 Shanlao Hutong,
Dongcheng 东城区山老胡同14号 (6407
8969)
DJ: Fritz Kalkbrenner
German DJ Fritz Kalkbrenner, the voice
behind the Berlin Calling trajicomedy
movie, returns to Beijing for the third
time for a night of hip-hop, soul and
house.
> RMB150 (door, including a drink),
RMB80 (presale, including a drink); 9pm;
Club 5F, 5 Floor, The Place, Tower A,
9 Guaghua Lu, Chaoyang (6587 2968,
www. 5FCLUB.com, for tickets 138 103
12612)
Shanghai Punk Tour
Shanghai noise makers Goushen join
Bedstars and Round Eye for a night of
drunk punk tunes and good times.
>RMB50; 9.30pm; School Bar (see
Listings for details)
OCT 2
COMMUNITY
Performance: Beijing Improv LongForm Performance
Beijing Improv, China’s oldest and largest
Improvised Theater organization, promises attendees a laugh and good time,
guaranteed.
> RMB75 (door), RMB65 (member);
7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Listings for
details).
OCT 7
NIGHTLIFE
Every Fri-Sun
Eat: Weekends at BAO House
BAO House is Beijing first gourmet food truck. It’s located outside The Opposite
House Hotel, next to Taikoo Li North. They offer gourmet baozi and mantou (plus
Slow Boat on tap and home-made iced teas) that make for a great little pre-party
dinner option. Especially since on Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings a big
sound system is there to get everyone in the party mood. If you’re thinking Why
spend all that money on a snack I can pick up in my xiaoqu for 5 kuai?, then you
are mistaken. BAO House baozi are no ordinary baozi. With fillings like wagyu Beef
and Mushroom with Black Truffle; Thai Pork with Red Curry and Kaffir Lime; and
Lemongrass Pork with Pickled Vegetables, Chilli and Coriander these innovative,
one of a kind bao that would make any lao taitai question the very fabric of their
own dumpling making existence.
> Fri/Sat 5:30-8:30pm, Sun 3-6pm; runs till late October; The Opposite House
Hotel, Building #1, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼瑜舍
(6417 6688)
EAT / DRINK
NIGHTLIFE
OCT 3
COMMUNITY
Talk: Beijing Design Week: BarCamp at
Capital M
Designers, entrepreneurs, programmers,
and many more professionals come
together to share new developments in
their fields. In honor of Beijing Design
Week, discussions will have a design
focus.
> Free; 1pm; Capital M (see listings for
details)
OCT 4
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: LiMinHo Fan Meeting in Beijing
South Korean actor, singer, model Li MinHo will sing Chinese songs, interact with
his fans and give gifts as a “thank you”
for their support.
> RMB1,280; 7.30pm; MasterCard Center
(formerly the Wukesong Arena), 12 Xicui
Road, Xicheng
Music: Vol.4 Bad Education
Part four of School Bar’s “Bad Education”
series rolls on, featuring punk bands
Bedstars, Me Guan Me, Hell City and the
hilariously named Green Tea Bitch.
> Free for ladies, RMB50 for guys;
9.30pm; School Bar (see Listings for
details)
Music: Miss Lulu Galore & Friends
One of the leading figures and co-producers of Beijing’s Moonglow Burlesque
dance troupe, Miss Lulu Galore and her
lovely friends promise to set Beijing on
fire with their sultry jazz sounds and sensual burlesque strip tease.
> Free; 8pm; The Bookworm (see Listings
for details).
Les Booze, Les Chat, Les Connect
An inclusive and open event for queer
women, their friends and allies, the
pop-up girl bar on the rooftop of Funky
provides a safe space for all to mingle,
drink and connect.
> Free for all who identify as female;
9pm; Funky (see listings for details)
Events are editors’ picks of the best
activities and are not comprehensive. To
list an event, email bjevents@urbanatomy.
com. For some details, see Listings.
Gig: Northern Light Trios
With a name that suits the aim, Northern
Lights music is meant to stir the imagination and evoke the unbounded expanse
of Canadian prairies.
> RMB60 (door), RMB50 (presale); 9pm;
Dust Dawn Club,14 Shanlao Hutong,
8969)
Music: Folk Song Circle and
Instrumental Jam
Bring your guitar, ukulele, fiddle or
spoons and play along! The sing-along
features music from the classic collection
Rise Up Singing, and will be followed by
a jam by members of the Beijing bluegrass and old time community.
> Free; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see
COMMUNITY
Workshop: A writing collective for
emerging writers
Get over that writers block! Experiment,
learn and develop your hand at writing
at WoW writers collective, which prides
itself on creating a “safe” environment
for all writers.
> Free; 6.30pm; The Bookworm (see
OCT 8
NIGHTLIFE
ALL MONTH
Drink: Taproom Tastings at Jing-A
The eccentric brewmasters at Jing-A have eked out a somewhat nomadic existence
till now – but with the opening of a new taproom in Sanlitun all that has changed.
“I think the one thing that’s been missing up until this point has been our own
flagship bar – now we have a place where we can control every last detail,” owner
Alex told us last month. “The bar, the decor, the food, the service. The complete
Jing-A experience.” That includes all their beers, including the new Smoked
Guizhou Chili Porter and Harmonious Session Ale, accompanied by a short menu
of artisanal-inspired food featuring Andy’s Sausages, gourmet grilled cheese and
homemade pickles, with more to come in future weeks. And because the Jing-A experience is all about togetherness, they’ve invited Shanghai’s The Brew to provide
two guest ales, the multiple award-winning Pils and new Chrysanthemum Saison.
The bar should be fully up and running by the start of October, call ahead or check
online for updates and details.
> Building B, 1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang
朝阳区工体北路4号院 visit www.capitalbrew.com for more info
Gig: Blackwater
Developed in Beijing in 2009, Irish band
Blackwater is back on stage with their
signature accordion, guitar, tenor banjo,
bodhran, tin whistle and wooden flute
sound.
> Free, 9pm, Salud Nanluoguxiang, 66
Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng
OCT 8-NOV 16
EAT/DRINK
Food: Saveurs Du Monde
The Ritz-Carlton and GODIVA come together to create “Saveurs Du Monde,” an
afternoon celebrating premium chocolate from five continents.
> RMB248; 1.30-5.30pm; Ritz-Carlton
Beijing, 83A Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang ([email protected]; 5908 8180)
OCT 9
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Painkiller Magazine 14th
Anniversary Carcass
One of the most creative metal bands
e v ent s
getaways
from the UK, CARCASS arrives in
Beijing in time for the Painkiller Mag
14th Anniversary. “Take your CARCASS,”
they advertise. “And prepare for the
medicine they prescribe and the mind
surgery they do.”
> RMB380 (door), RMB300 (presale);
8pm; Yugong Yishan Livehouse Beijing
(see listings for details).
NIGHTLIFE
Music: Folk Night with Liu Yusi
Shenzhen singer-songwriter Liu Yusi
takes the stage to croon some crunchy
tunes. You may recognize the musician
as the guitarist from band Randy Abel
Stable.
>Free; 9.30pm; School Bar (see Listings
for details)
OCT 10
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Yosi Horikawa
Yosi performs a melodic-but-abstract
mix of bass music, similar to DJs such as
Bonobo and early Aphex Twin.
> RMB50; 9pm; Dada (see listings for
details).
OCT 11-14
ART
Stage: Marco Polo
Actors recreate scenes from the dreamy
travelogue of Marco Polo, the Venetian
merchant credited with connecting
Eastern and Western civilizations.
> RMB60-600; 7.30pm; National Centre
for the Performing Arts, 2 Xi Chang’anjie,
Xicheng
Gig: Hotpot
DJ Wordy, DJ Soulspeak and DJ Wes play
across all genres of dance music: bass,
house, trap, hip-hop, funk and soulful
banger beats.
> RMB60; 10pm; Migas (see Listings for
details).
OCT 12
Gig: Housing the Bar with Special K &
Yang Bing
DJs Bite-Size Buddha, Special K and Yang
Bing bring their groove-heavy vinyl to
the decks. Get up to Migas terrace and
get ready for some house music.
details).
COMMUNITY
Film: A Touch of Zen
Serving as inspiration for the film
“Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon” and
the first Chinese film to ever win an
award at the Cannes Film Festival, “A
Touch of Zen” will be screened at The
Culture Yard as part of the organization’s
Chinese Ghost Stories series. Mandarin
with English subtitles.
>RMB50, RMB30 for members; 69.30pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique Hutong,
Dongcheng District (Reserve at https://
cultureyard.typeform.com/to/Dj2nVT or
[email protected], 84044166)
OCT 10 & 11
Eat & DRINK
Party: Autumn Craft Beer Festival
Slow Boat Brewery plays host more than
20 Chinese microbreweries and food
vendors. Mention the beer festival for
special discounted rates at the hotel.
(see Eat & Drink section for our feature.)
> Free; Fri 5pm, Sat 12pm; EAST Beijing,
22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang
OCT 11
OCT 12 & 26
COMMUNITY
COMMUNITY
New Opening
Workshop: Bookworm Writers Group
Group of writers read, reflect and discuss
what they’re working on. Members may
share short stories or novel chapters
for in-depth feedback , and sometimes
the group picks apart a short story from
well-known writers for inspiration.
> Free; 11am; The Bookworm (see
The Pan Pacific Hotel
Launches in Tianjin
NIGHTLIFE
DJ: Shaolin Funk
Parnas and Limelight Entertainment
present Shaolin Funk, where resident
DJs Max atLarge, Juhstynn and MRG will
play host a night of funk and disco with
a dash of house.
Free; 9pm; Parnas (see Listings for
details)
Music: Jagermeister Rock Night
Try and enjoy cheap Jager shots all
night and listen as rock bands End of
the World, The Harridans and Candy
Monster play their rowdy music.
> RMB40; 9.30pm; School Bar (see
ART
Piano Recital: Pierre- Laurent Aimard
Prominent pianist Pierre- Laurent Aimard
plays both traditional and modern music
at this concert.
> RMB80-380; 7.30pm; National Centre
for the Performing Arts, 2 Xi Chang’anjie,
Xicheng
OCT 12
Extremely soft beds and tall windows cater to travelers searching for temporary
homes, a spa and pool appeal to Beijingers looking for that perfect spot for a
weekend getaway, while high-speed Internet and conference rooms have got those
busy men on business covered.
Yes, once you enter the stylish Pan Pacific Hotel in Tianjin, there’s really no
reason to leave – from the bridal room to fitness spa, all of life’s necessities are
covered within.
Operating more than 10 hotels nationwide, the fact that staff at the Pan
Pacific are trained to deal with customer needs is evident not only in the site’s
thoughtful architectural design- rarely will you be unable to find what you’re looking for, but also in their incredibly personalized service.
Upon arrival, hand written personalized notes welcoming you to the hotel are
propped next to bowls of fresh fruit. Of the 319 rooms located in the hotel, guests
have the choice of staying in serviced apartments (accommodation outfitted with
kitchenettes and washing machines), smoking/non-smoking spaces and handicap
rooms.
Each living space is tastefully composed with glass walls, granite flooring and
all-cream everything. The suite interior is reminiscent of a Greek isle. But, fresh lilies and a large flat screen TV reinforce the idea of a luxury staycation. The fitness
centre and possibility of booking full spa days enhances that perspective.
Inside the Pan Pacific building, Hai Tien Lo Chinese restaurant, the ultra-hip
Asian-inspired Noodle Bar, the Pacifica all-day dining restaurant and wine-centric
Lobby Lounge are available for hungry guests. The ballroom can be booked for
weddings, award ceremonies, family reunions or other occasions. For those whose
trip requires business, a business center and meeting rooms are available.
Located along the wide Haihe river (most rooms have excellent river views),
the Pan Pacific is just a short walk from tourist sites such as the Tianjin Ancient
Culture Street, the Palace of Mazu and Italian Street. The Pan Pacific Hotel in Tianjin
is slated to become the newest addition to the city’s The Esplanade, an iconic commercial, residential and cultural area located in Tianjin’s Hongqiao district.
Workshop: Beginners’ Mahjong
Local Mahjong experts pass on extensive
knowledge of this immensely popular
game of skill, tactics and calculation.
> RMB80, RMB40 for members; 10am12pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique Hutong,
Dongcheng District (Reserve at https://
cultureyard.typeform.com/to/BFhfDF or
by sending your name and number of
seats required to workshop@cultureyard.
net. 84044166)
OCT 12-31
ART
Exhibition: Paris Fashion Week 30
Years Ago
Early pictures of now-famous models
Linda Spierings, Tatjana Patitz, Marpessa
Hennink exhibited at Inter Gallery. Taken
when artist Benedicte Bro was still a design student, these pictures will take you
back to Paris Fashion Week 30 years ago.
> Free, 10am- 7pm; Inter Gallery,
Sevenstar Lu, 798 Art Aream 4
Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang (5978 0929)
OCT 13
COMMUNITY
Talk: Literary Lunch: Juan Gabriel
Vasquez
Award-winning author Juan Gabriel
Vasquez joins diners for a three-course
lunch and talks about his novels and his
reaction against magical realism.
> RMB188 includes three course lunch;
12pm; Capital M (see listings for details)
OCT 14
> 1 Zhangzizhong Lu, Hongqiao, Tianjin 天津市红桥区张自忠路1号泛太平洋酒店
NIGHTLIFE
(022 5863 8888)
Music: Yan Colors “The Sunshine Goes
e v ent s
Through The Window” Album Release
Show
Join this rock-blues-jazz band for the release of their first album, which includes
A Yan on vocals along with guitar, bass,
drums and two keyboard players.
> Free; 8.30pm; School Bar (see Listings
for details)
arts
Party: Murder Mystery Dinner
It’s the year 1926, and the city of Chester
is buzzing about an upcoming marriage. That is, before someone discovers
a secret they are dying to share! Nine
international actors will present this
year’s “Murder Mystery Dinner Party and
Performance.” Includes three-course dinner, and free-flowing alcohol.
> RMB398 (three courses and a freeflowing alcohol), RMB358 (presale, three
courses and a free-flowing alcohol);
7pm; Crowne Plaza Beijing International
Airport Hotel (5810 8601, conrad.geske@
ihg.com; see listings for more details)
OCT 15
COMMUNITY
Talk: Book Talk with Kerry Brown
Brown iterates his tale of two China’s:
one founded on the Communist principles of Mao Zedong, and another in
which ‘to get rich is glorious’.
> RMB50 (door), RMB40 (for members);
details)
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: The Groove Collective
The Groove Collective spins a mix inspired by Beijing’s international community, the disparate rhythms and melting
pot of music styles and sounds meant
to symbolize the many cultures listeners
come from.
> Free, 9pm, Salud Nanluoguxiang, 66
Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng
EAT/ DRINK
Party: Nocturnal
Isolate your sense of taste and only taste
at Nocturnal conceptual dining experience, where a three-course meal will be
served in the dark.
> RMB588 includes food and wine pairings and drink at reception; 7-9pm;
Parnas (see Listings for details)
OCT 16
COMMUNITY
Talk: The Thoughts of Chairmen NowBook talk with Jonathan Geldart
Co-author of book Jonathan Geldart
takes you into the mind of the modern
Chinese businessman and discusses the
business tactics, strategies and subtleties
used to get work done in China.
> RMB50 (door), RMB40 (for members);
details)
OCT 19
NIGHTLIFE
Oct 21-26
Arts: Brussels Days at China
Central Academy of Fine Arts
Beijing and Brussels became sister cities in October 1994. Twenty years and nine
formidable art installations later, Beijing is cementing this year’s sisterhood with
“Brussels Days,” a series of exhibits uniting Chinese and Belgian artists.
“MASTER MOULD AND COPY ROOM,” the first installation, will debut on
October 21 at the China Central Academy of Fine Arts. The work discusses the
eastern and western perspectives on originality, and highlights include a copy
of Marcel Broodthaers famous ‘White Room’, an original of artist Frank Theys’
‘Transhumanist’ video documentary and a work specially made for Beijing by conceptual artist Joelle Tuerlinkckx.
All pieces are meant to highlight the idea that, in spite of wildly different backgrounds or beliefs, fine art and culture can be enjoyed by Chinese and
Belgians alike.
> 9.30am-5.30pm; China Central Academy of Fine Arts, 8 Huajiadi Nan Lu,
Chaoyang 朝阳区花家地南路8号 (6477 1018)
nightlife
OCT 17
Gig: Horse Meat Disco
Advertised as the “queer party for everyone,” Horse Meat Disco celebrates its
11th year of disco parties, second year
in Beijing, with DJ James Hillard spinning
house tracks.
> RMB50; 9pm; DADA (see Listings for
details).
Music: Pyongyang Star Vol.2
Part two of this intriguingly named
indie group’s theme night, where bands
NAKOMA, We’re Not Invited, Glow Curve
and WHAI take the stage.
OCT 18
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Tocotronic
From punk to grunge to electro to pop,
German band Tocotronic will present
one night of music with a diversity of
Festival: THE DISTANCE BETWEEN 0 & 1
To commemorate the 10th Jazz Festival
Anniversary, the JZ Group will play host
jazz masters’: Jojo Mayer, Nerve, Snarky
Puppy, Marcus Miller and many more
in Beijing.
> RMB150, RMB100 (presale); 9.30pm;
Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)
Gig: Roy McGrath Jazz Quartet
Tenor sax extraordinaire Roy McGrath,
pianist Joaquin Garcia, bassist Kitt Lyles
and drummer Gustavo Cortiñas come
together to perform the “sonorous
dialogue,” a ensemble that promises to
move listeners to laughter and tears.
> RMB50, RMB40 (presale); 9pm;
Dust Dawn Club14, Shanlao Hutong,
8969).
OCT 15
COMMUNITY
NIGHTLIFE
Future Music Festival 2014
Dim Mak label boss Steve Aoki makes his
annual pilgrimage to Beijing to headline
the Future Music Festival.
> RMB280 (early bird), RMB380 (presale);
9pm; Tango 1F & 3F, 79 Hepingli Xijie,
Dongcheng
styles.
> Free (tickets are available at Yugong
Yishan and the Goethe-Institut China);
8pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for
details)
Film: “Red White”- After the Sichuan
Earthquake
The Culture Yard screens the awardwinning film “Red White,” which tells
the stories of townsfolk who lost their
families, friends and homes after
the devastating Sichuan earthquake.
Discussion after.
> RMB50, RMB30 for members;
6-9.30pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique
Hutong, Dongcheng (Reserve at https://
cultureyard.typeform.com/to/FjpjAb or
by sending your name and number of
seats required to workshop@cultureyard.
net, 84044166)
OCT 22
COMMUNITY
Oct 25
Party: Experience Festival Warm
Up Tour Beijing
Think tie-dye, think mind-altering audio, visual and stimulants – but also remember to stay safe out there, kids – we’re talking coffee and Red Bull. In the “interests
of promoting psychedelic culture and awareness,” this October Dada will parrot
the infamous New Year’s Eve party that takes place on Thailand’s Koh Tao island
each year. DJs Rigel Made, Acid Echoes and Anan will provide the swirly mashups,
but it’s DJ NOTE – resident DJ at both the Halfmoon and Fullmoon Festivals in
Thailand – who will add a layer of authenticity to the event, transporting us from
smoggy Beijing to starlit skies, sandy beaches and the throbbing beats of Koh Tao.
See you on the trance floor.
> RMB50; 10pm; Dada (see Listings for details)
Talk: The New Chinese Traveler-Book
talk with Gary Bowerman
Bowerman explains the trends and developments of Chinese outbound travel,
alongside the motivations, desires and
expectations of Chinese leisure and
business travelers. Marketed to business
executives hoping to hone their products and services to better meet requirements of tech-savvy Chinese travelers.
> RMB50, RMB40 (members); 7:30pm;
The Bookworm (see Listings for details)
NIGHTLIFE
Music: Mammals CD Release Show
Beijing upstart rock band Mammals
release their aptly-named new CD,
“Animals That Don’t Lay Eggs Volume 1.”
Admission includes a copy of what’s sure
to be a rowdy and fun CD.
e v ent s
OCT 23
opening party
COMMUNITY
OCT 31
Talk: China and the Supernatural
Newman Tours will explore the unique
nature of Chinese ghost lore, trace it’s
development and discuss its recent commercialization.
> RMB70, RMB60 (for members); 7.30pm;
The Bookworm (see Listings for details).
COMMUNITY
Comedy: Paul Ogata
Winner of the prestigious San Francisco
International Comedy Competition, Paul
Ogata will extend previous award winners legacy, by delivering Beijing comedy-lovers a side-splitting evening.
> RMB180 (door), RMB150 (presale);
8pm; The Bookworm (see Listings for
details).
OCT 24-26
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: BEME III
Beijing-based electronic music label SINOTRONICS presents the third annual Beijing Electronic Music Encounter
(BEME), China’s most progressive showcase of electronic sounds. Stretched
three nights, BEME III hosts 14 artists
from China and India, and provides an
account of the city’s musical future.
> 24th, RMB40, 8pm, DADA; 25th,
RMB80, 8pm, Yugong YIshan; 26th,
RMB60, Beijing XP, (see Listings for
details)
OCT 25
COMMUNITY
Workshop: Bookworm Writers Group
Group of writers read, reflect and discuss
what they’re working on. Members may
share short stories or novel chapters
for in-depth feedback, and sometimes
the group picks apart a short story from
well-known writers for inspiration.
> Free; 11am; The Bookworm (see
NIGHTLIFE
Party: Masquerade Ball with Alejandro
Paz
Start the Halloween partying a little early
with a costume and masquerade ball featuring DJ and producer Alejandro Paz.
> RMB60 includes a drink; 9pm; Parnas
(see Listings for details)
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Halloween Night
Halloween with the Black Eyeliner! Ben
Bacon and friends are back to rock your
Halloween night with dark, spooky music
from 80s pop to future electro punk.
> Free; 9pm; Dada (see Listings for
details)
OCT 28
Opening Party at Laurent Falcon
Coiffure Studio Paris Guomao
Featured in magazines such as Cosmopolitan and Bazaar for his expert cuts and
designs, stylist Laurent Falcon is offering to share his expertise on how you should
cut, curl or color your hair. On October 28 men, women and their hair-conscious
children (we all had a pigtails phase) who walk into the Frenchman’s luxury new
salon in Guomao can receive a personal haircut, coloring and perm advice free of
charge (all day, available for all walk-in guests), plus vouchers for a hair/scalp SPA
(to be booked for a later date at any Falcon branch). That same evening, the 28th,
the Guomao store will host a cocktail party from 7-10pm, with free cocktails, where
everyone can show off their stylish new ‘do’s.
> Laurent Falcon Cioffure Studio Paris; 3L209 Phase 3, The China World Trade
Center Shopping Mall, Chaoyang 朝阳区国贸商城三期二层 3L209 (5900 0676, 153
1311 1519); 43 Sanlitun Beijie Nan, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北街南43号楼
(135 0137 2971)
nightlife
OCT 26
COMMUNITY
Film: A Chinese Ghost Story (1987)
The Culture Yard screens Hong Kong horror film A Chinese Ghost Story, a modern
take on a Qing Dynasty classic about a
human and ghost who fall in love.
> RMB50, RMB30 for members;
6-9.30pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique
Hutong, Dongcheng District (Reserve at
https://cultureyard.typeform.com/to/
Dj2nVT or by sending your name and
number of seats required to workshop@
cultureyard.net, 84044166)
OCT 28
OCT 30
COMMUNITY
Talk: Sex and The Citadel - Book talk
with Shereen El Feki
Author and journalist Shereen El Feki
examines the sexual lives of men and
women in Egypt. Sex is entwined with
religion, politics and economics, and the
result is an engaging account of a highly
sensitive, and still largely secret, aspect
of Arab society.
Gig: House of Freaks
Migas’s first Halloween party will transform its dance floor into what’s advertised as a “random, weird, trashy, alien
haunted house.”
details)
Party: Trick or Toast
Tim’s BBQ will transform their American
restaurant into a haunted lair, celebrating with alcoholic Bubbly Spiked Witch’s
Brew and a costume contest! Winner
gets a spooky surprise.
>Free; 9pm party starts, costume contest
at 11pm; Tim’s Texas BBQ (see Listings
for details)
EVERY SUNDAY
COMMUNITY
Story: Sunday Story Time
Come for this Sunday session of reading, games, music and activities for little
readers. Each week teacher Emily reads
new and classic children’s books with the
help of their storytellers. Ages 4 and up.
RMB50; 11am; The Bookworm (see listings for details).
Tour: The Emperors, Eunuchs and
Concubines
Learn about the nightmares that forced
Emperor Yongle to move his capital to
Beijing and find out why men were willing to become eunuchs in order to get
access to the inner realms of his palace.
> RMB290 (for adults), RMB220 (for kids
under 14); 1.30pm-3.30pm (138 1777
0229, [email protected], www.
newmantours.com).
EVERY MONDAY
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Crash & Compute
Crash & Compute—now called “Emil de
Waal”—bring their many genre’d electro,
techno, experimental jazz and ambient
music to Beijing.
>RMB40; 9pm; Dust Dawn Club, 14
Shanlao Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区山老
胡同14号 (6407 8969)
> RMB50, RMB40 (for members); 7:30pm;
The Bookworm (see Listings for details)
COMMUNITY
OCT 31
Party: Halloween Pillow Battle
at School Bar
Two months ago we were writing about a pillow fight to celebrate Chinese
Valentine’s Day and now we are writing about a pillow fight to celebrate
Halloween. Love? Fear? Violence? Whatever the emotion we hope the overriding one is fun. Local promotions group Qingchun Zhizao is sponsoring a pillow
fight... no, make that ‘Battle Royale’, this Halloween on Wudaoying Hutong in
Yonghegong. Whack ghouls, goblins and ghosts with these feathered weapons.
After, keep the party going with bands Virus Base (a group that’s self-described
music is “kung fu electro-core nuclear metal”) and punk heroes Own Up.
> RMB60 students, RMB80; 9pm; School Bar, 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng
东城区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881)
Quiz: Quiz Night
Quiz night returns to The Bookworm!
Every Monday prove you’re the smartest in the room over the six rounds of
intellectual and pop culture questions.
Winners earn drinks and respect.
> Free; 8pm; The Bookworm (see listings
for details).
EVERY TUESDAY
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Hot Club of Beijing
Hot Club of Beijing channels the spirit of
Django Reinhardt, Benny Goodman and
Duke Ellington with their raucous brand
of swing and gypsy jazz.
> Free; 8.30pm; Migas (see listings for
details).
CITY SCENES
Parnas celebrates turning a year old with a wild heaven and hell party. You may
be dressed like an angel, buddy, but watch where that hand is going.
Tang Dynasty – a band who formed in 1988 and haven’t changed
their look since, clearly – call forth a sea of devilhorns from the
crowd at the Modern Sky Music Festival.
Indigo Mall helps Disney celebrate 90 years with an exhibtion of exclusive
Disney artwork. Grown men look awkward around lifesize cartoon characters.
Parkway Health Centre’s therapists give physical examination checks for 1,000 hardy
souls about to climb the 2,041 steps of the China World Summit Wing Vertical Marathon.
The two conga lines at the Kerry Residence Mid-Autumn Family Day Celebrations collide dramatically but luckily everyone regains composure in time for a photo.
Somerset Zhongguancun Beijing celebrates Mid-Autumn with a BBQ
Party with over 50 people and preceisely zero mooncakes. Hooray!
Weekly Specials
Happy hours
Meal deals
Brunch
Food and Drink
Ladies' nights
El Gran Bocado Guac Burger
Fridays and Weekends
When El Gran Bocado first opened a year ago, we predicted big things for the casual neighborhood taqueria.
Well fast forward to 2014 and a second chain, El Gran
Bocado Shunyi, has already opened up – even the
Mexican Embassy are fans who’ve asked the team to cater
their events. The steady menu hasn’t seen much evolution, but this new arrival is worth mentioning. The El Gran
Bocado Guac Burger is 100% Aussie grass-fed beef with
double layers of cheese, lettuce, sweet jicama (Mexican
yam), and guacamole, on top of crushed crispy chicharron
(pork skin), with fries, chipotle mayonnaise coleslaw, picode-gallo and tortilla chips on the side. The beef is freshly
ground every Thursday and the burger is sold Fridays thru
Sundays. Friday is deal time, though – get the burger with
a coke for just RMB55. Gran bocado – poco denaro!
> El Gran Bocado, (see Listings for details)
M O N DAY to FR I DAY
Monday
区酒仙桥路22号1层 8414 9815
太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608)
Mai Bar
Buy two cocktails, get one free.
> 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区
北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641)
Jing Yaa Tang
Set lunch, RMB88/person, 4 for 3.
> Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11
号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6140 5230)
El Gran Bocado
Just RMB10 per taco – order as many as
you want.
> 1/F, Just Make Bldg, Xingfucun
Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路杰
作大厦1层 (6416 1715)
Parlor
Buy-two-get-one-free on selected
cocktails.
> 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸
福二村39-8 (8444 4135 )
Monday to Thursday
XIU
Buy-one-get-one-free on selected drinks,
6-9pm.
> 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianwai Dajie,
Chaoyang 北京柏悦酒店, 朝阳区建国门外
大街2号6楼 (8567 1108)
Monday to friday
One East
Two-course set lunch: RMB118/ per
person, 12:00-2:30pm.
2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road,
North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang
朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿
酒店2层 5865 5030
Great Leap Brewing
11:30-2pm, free soft drink or juice with
any burger or salad or add RMB5 for a
Pale Ale #6.
> At Xinzhong Lu branch only, (see
Hagaki
Set lunch, 11.30am-3pm, Bento style
lunch set from RMB58 with no service
charge.
5-10pm, Daiginjo Sake promotion,
RMB550 / 150 Bottle / Carafe.
> 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳
Agua
Agua’s new set lunch menu is RMB118/
person for three courses.
> RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm2:30pm, Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun
Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那
里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188 )
Greyhound Café
Only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud, and
RMB38 for a mojito or dry martini, 5-7pm.
> Greyhound Cafe (see listings for
details)
Village Café
Set Lunch, RMB98+15% (3 courses),
RMB88+15% (2 courses)
> 11.30am-2.30pm, Bldg 1, The Opposite
House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳
区三里屯路11号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410
5210)
Monday to Saturday
Twilight
Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun,
RMB20 off cocktails.
> 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39
Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝
阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室
(5900 5376)
Tuesday
Flamme
Two-for-one steak all day.
> 3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯
tuesday to Friday
S.T.A.Y Restaurant
Three courses including coffee and tea
for RMB388/person with 15 percent
service charge, 11.30am-2.30pm.
> Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel,
29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路
29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727)
wednesday
Great Leap Brewing
All day Wednesday, one select beer at
RMB25.
>At Number 6 Courtyard branch, (see
Mao Mao Chong
Cocktails RMB35, 7-11pm.
> 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan
Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街板
厂胡同12号 (6405 5718)
Elements
Free mojitos, champagne and cosmos,
9pm-1am.
> 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang 朝阳区工
体西门58号 (6551 2373)
4Corners
Ladies get 15 percent off red wine.
cheap shots and drink deals at 4Corners’
weekly celebration of KTV.
> Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石
杯胡同7号 (6401 7797)
The World of Suzie Wong’s
Free drinks for girls, 9pm-12am.
> Gate 8, West Gate of Chaoyang Park,
Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西门8号 (6500
3377)
Xian
Whiskey night, discounts on special
selected whiskeys.
> All night, 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414
9810)
thursday
Domain
Happy Burger’s Day, 2 for 1 Burger
promotion.
> 10.30am-2pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
9830)
Opus Terrace
Ladies enjoy free cocktails; on Fridays, it’s
bachelors night, where chaps get 50 percent
off beer and burgers at the same times, 5-8pm.
> Opus Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao
Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路48号
(5695 8888)
Vics
Free drinks for ladies until midnight.
> Inside the north gate of the Workers’
Stadium, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内
(5293 0333)
Friday
Mesh
House Champaign buy 1 bottle get 1
free.
号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5220)
e v ent s
E v ery day
The Big Smoke
Daily 4-7pm, 20 percent off all cocktails,
house wines and beers.
> 57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳
区幸福村中路57号楼利世楼 (6416 2683)
Blue Frog
Daily 4-8pm, buy-one-get-one-free all
drinks.
> Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3,
S2 Tower, S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路太
古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional
branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see
www.bluefrog.com.cn for details)
Centro
Daily 5-8pm, two-for-one deals.
> Shangri-la’s Kerry Centre Hotel Beijing,
1/F, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光
华路1号香格里拉北京嘉里中心大酒店1层
(6561 8833 ext. 42)
Cuju
Daily 6-9pm, buy-one-get-one-free draft
beer, mixed drinks and soft drinks.
> 28 Xiguan Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区
西管胡同28号 (6407 9782)
Feast (Food by East)
Works for dinner, 2 course RMB168+15%
with a glass of wine or soft drinks.
> 5.30-10.30pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
9820)
Flamme
Cocktail, beers and wine by the glass are
50 percent off from 3-7.30pm daily.
> S4-33, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯
太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608)
Modo Urban Deli
4-7pm cocktails and house wine RMB25
and beer RMB15.
> S10-31, 3/F, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Taikooli
South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区
三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区8号楼S1031 (6415 7207)
Mosto
6-7pm discounts on cocktails, wine and
beer.
> 3/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu,
Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花
园3层 (5208 6030)
NOLA
3-8pm. Sun-Thu, half price on Pabst
Blue Ribbon, Tsingtao and all cocktails
including daiquiris.
> A-11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai
Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街秀水
南街A-11 (8563 6215)
R Lounge
Daily 6-9pm, two-for-one standard
from RMB55-65
> See Listings for details
drinks and cocktails.
> 4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel,
61 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝
阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4
层 (5863 8112)
Transit
Daily 6pm-7:30pm, two-for-one.
> N4-36, Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11
号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)
Beijing Marriott Hotel
Daily 11.30-2pm, dumplings, noodles
and desserts, including juice or tea,
RMB118. Sun/Sat 11.30-2pm, dim sum,
lobster and unlimited beer, RMB168.
> 26A Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄
云路甲26号北京海航大厦万豪酒店(5927
8888)
Vivid
Daily, 6pm-10pm, two-for-one drinks.
> Vivid, Level 5, Conrad Beijing, 29 North
Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东
三环北路29号北京康莱德酒店5层 (6584
6310)
Isola
11:30am-3pm. Lunch for RMB138.
3-6pm Fashion high tea
5-8pm Happy hour, two-for-one on
selected drinks
6-10:30 Dinner set menu, 2-course
RMB238, 3-course RMB258.
> N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North,
Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里
北区N3-37和 47商铺 (6416 3499)
Bene Restaurant
Daily 11.30am-2pm. RMB98 includes
antipasto with main course, pizza or pasta.
> Sheraton Dongcheng, 36 Beisanhuan
Donglu, Dongcheng 东城区北三环东路36
号 (5798 8888)
Cafe Sambal
Nasi Campur Malaysian set: two meats
and vegetables each, varying daily. With
soup, appetizer for RMB78. Curry sets
Transit
Daily 12pm-2.30pm. Choice of
appetizers, mains, rice or noodles with
dessert for RMB88.
> N4-36/37 Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11
号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)
Factory (By Salt)
Until Sep 30 order summer BBQ
catering, from RMB150pp
> Factory A1 North, 797 Middle Street,
798 Art Zone A, Chaoyang 朝阳区
798艺术区A区七九七中街01#商务楼北楼
一层1号 (010 5762-6451)
Week end
saturday
Great Leap Brewing
All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select
beer at RMB25.
>At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for
details)
R Lounge
Selection of drinks for free all night.
> 61 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang
朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店
4层 (5863 8241)
sunday
Great Leap Brewing
All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select
beer at RMB25.
>At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for
details)
The Village Cafe
Sun 3:30pm-sold out. Sunday roast
RMB98 (+15%; 50% off for kids under
12)
> The Opposite House, Building 1, No. 11
Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路
11 号院 1 号楼瑜舍酒店
Qi
Sun 11.30am-2pm, all-you-can-eat dim
sum including one double-boiled soup
for RMB288 per person. Add a bottle of
Dom Perignon for RMB1988 for two.
> Ritz-Carlton Beijing Financial Street,
Jinchengfang Dong, 1 Jinrong Jie,
Xicheng 西城区金城坊东金融街1号 (6601
6666)
Senses and Prego
Sun 11.30am-3pm, Retrolicious Champagne
Brunch, international and Asian specialties
with free flow champagne, wines, cocktails
and juices for RMB 458. Prices subject to 15
percent service.
> The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B
Financial Street, Xicheng 西城区金融大街
乙9号(6629 7810)
Seasonal Tastes
Sun 11.30am-3pm Unlimited buffet for
RMB428-498 per person plus 15 percent
surcharge.
> Westin Chaoyang, 7 North
Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东
三环北路7号(5922 8880)
Sureño
RMB228 for 2 courses, RMB328 for 3
courses. Supplement RMB150 for free
flow cocktails; supplement RMB200 for
free flow Champaign (all prices subject
to 15% service charge)
号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5240)
Vasco’s
saturday to sunday
One East
Either organic tenderloin steak (200g),
organic rib-eye (220g) or angus sirloin
(220g) plus veg or fries incl. a pint of
beer for RMB270/person 6-10:30pm
2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road,
North Dong Sanhuan, Chaoyang
朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿
酒店2层 5865 5030
Agua
Sat-Sun, Agua’s Infinity Weekend Brunch
is RMB298 for infinite food, plus RMB168
for free flow drinks.
> 12-2:30pm (free flow until 3pm),
Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu,
Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花
园4楼D308号 (5208 6188)
Eudora Station
Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, breakfast buffet with
one main and free flow juice or coffee
for RMB98.
> Opposite Lido Palace, 6 Fangyuan Xi
Lu. Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园西路6号(6437
8331)
Aroma
Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, international
buffet starting at RMB518 plus 15
percent service charge.
Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jianguo Lu,
China Central Place, Chaoyang 朝阳区建
国路83甲(5908 8161)
Sui Yuan
Sat-Sun and public holidays 10.30am2.30pm, unlimited dim sum for RMB128
plus 15 percent surcharge.
> Hilton Double Tree, 168 Guang’anmen
Waidajie, Xicheng 西城区广安门外大街
168号 (6338 1999 ext. 1726)
Café Sambal
Sat-Sun, RMB98, Café Sambal is rolling
out weekend brunch. Three courses plus
coffee, tea or fruit punch.
> 43 Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie,
Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同
43号 (6400 4875)
Yi House
Sat-Sun international set menu for
RMB308.
> Grace Hotel, Bldg 2, 1, 706 Hou Jie, 798
Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang
朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1
号 (6436 1818)
Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet
with free-flow champagne for RMB458
plus 15 percent service charge.
> Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8
Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng 东城区
王府井东街8号(5812 8888 ext. 8411)
listings
restaurant
OPEN DOOR
The Hot One Hundred
About This guide represents our editors’
top 100 picks, and includes some That’s
Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*)
have been personally reviewed by our
experts, and scored according to the
cuisine, experience and affordability.
CHINESE
Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine
ART-RESTAURANT DACHA
Modeled On a Classic
Russia is a country with a weighty political history; we always assumed the
state’s staple potato and meat dishes reflected bureaucrat exuberance. But,
the heaviest thing about the cuisine at Art-Restaurant Dacha in Yabaolu are
the place’s wooden menus. Decorated in creamy linen and finished wood, restaurant diners can lean into cushy couches while enjoying appetizers of fresh
mango salad with chicken, tiger shrimp and sweet chili (RMB48), and the lamb
rack with mustard sauce (RMB98) as an entree. At a restaurant whose main clientele is Beijing’s vast model population, plates are dressed to perfection, and a
stage is located in the front where dance shows are performed every evening at
8:30pm and 10:45pm.
> Daily 10am-3am, 1 Ritan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区日坛路1号 (8563 5765)
8 Qi Nian (Cantonese/Sichuan/Hunan)
The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant
has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance,
as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal
soups. (Their decent wine list is just as
effective.)
>Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun
12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8
Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界
酒店2层 (5960 8822)
Bellagio (Taiwanese)
Where else can you carve through mountainous shaved ice desserts and suck down
creamy bubble teas at 5am? A favorite
among the city’s hip and young, this
swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is best
enjoyed long after dark.
> 6 Gongti Xilu Chaoyang 工体西路6号 (6551 3533)
See www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for more locations
Din Tai Fung ¥ (Taiwanese)
Expect the Chinese waiting staff to be dressed in vibrant Indian sherwanis;
expect the mutton vindaloo (RMB60) to be exceptionally creamy; expect droves
of in-the-know Indians to be there relishing a taste of home; but, most of all,
expect to be surprised by the informality of Indian Kitchen. Located directly
south of the Liangma River in Sanlitun, the casual atmosphere of Indian Kitchen
makes it an anomaly among other white table clothed options nearby.
Indian food is like Chinese in that sharing is best. Don’t miss the tandoori platter (RMB136), a weighty dish of sizzling marinated cuts or the mango chicken
(RMB60), which offers something a bit zingier to cut through any creamy curries. Any meals at Indian kitchen is punctuated by grabbing and dipping and
(hopefully graceful) accidental splattering is encouraged. Expect to finish your
meal at Indian Kitchen with very little room left for dessert.
> Mon-Fri 11am- 2:30pm, 5:30pm- 11pm; 2/F Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang
朝阳区三里屯北小街2F (6462 7255)
> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing
Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路
1号嘉里中心1层 (8565 2188)
Jing Yaa Tang (Chinese, Peking Duck)
Resembling something between a nightclub and theater, the Opposite House’s
basement restaurant proves to be more
than just style over substance with their
range of classic dishes. Don’t ask about the
double A, though.
> Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House,
Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号
楼瑜舍酒B1楼 (6410 5230)
Wu Li Xiang (Cantonese, Sichuan) *
Impressive views don’t detract from the
exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam,
especially the famous dim sum. Swanky
classics from all the main culinary regions
of China, like Sichuan and Hong Kong,
including “Monk Jump Over the Wall,”
braised pork in oyster sauce.
> Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm. 2-3/F, Traders Upper
East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三
层 (5907 8406)
Peking Duck
Da Dong *
Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da
Dong guarantees slick carvings of Beijingstyle roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum
sauce is hard to follow.
Duck de Chine ¥ *
Good duck is meant to show your guests
how wonderful you are, as much as the
food. Duck De Chine does that in spades,
with fantastic presentation of its crispy,
succulent duck (RMB188).
> Xinyuanli branch: 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm
Weekends 11.30am-10pm. Yu Yang Branch (渔阳店):
24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源
西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) (6462 4502) > Additional
branches in Shin Kong Place; Parkview Green; Grand
Pacific Mall Xidan; Modern Plaza Zhongguancun
(see www.dintaifung.com.cn for details)
Food Meant for Sharing
The Horizon (Cantonese, Sichuan, Beijing
Duck)*
Kerry Hotel’s recently rennovated Chinese
restaurant has widened its predominantly
Cantonese and Sichuan horizons to include
dim sum, double-boiled soups and Peking
Duck – and the roast bird here really is
fabulous.
> Daily 11am-10pm. No.22 Dongsishitiao,
Dongcheng 东城区东四十条甲22号 (5169 0328 See
www.dadongdadong.com for more locations Daily
11am-10pm)
This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken
Hom enough to call it one of the best 10
eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous
for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao
or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s
always a long wait.
Indian Kitchen
Expensive...................................¥
Expense Account ....................¥¥
Recommended .........................*
Top Ten ....................................**
Green T (Fine Dining)
Although the inspiration is ‘Tang Dynasty
bathhouse,’ the effect is more ‘Whoah.’ An
indoor tea bath occupies a slate-tiled space
scattered with artistic curios, along side
a vegetable allotment, outdoor Jacuzzi,
wooden trestle table and 1,500-sqm villa.
The space has a design award by Wallpaper* magazine and came third in the Daily
Meal’s Top 101 Asian restaurants.
> Daily 11.30am-11.30pm. 318 Hegezhuang Village,
Cuigezhuang, Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各庄乡合各庄村
318号 (8456 4922 Ext 8, 136 0113 7132, 136 0113
7232; www.green-t-house.com)
Najia Xiaoguan (Imperial Dining)
A hugely popular Manchu restaurant,
first opened by an emperor’s doctor, you
choose your dishes from a carved wooden
tray: 18-hour stewed huang tanzi, fatty
ox hoof,crispy fried shrimp, chicken with
walnut. Reservations are required to get
a place in this two-storey, quintessentially
Imperial China restaurant.
> Daily 1130am-10pm; 10 Yonganli (south of the
LG Twin Towers, west of 119 Middle School),
Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大
街永安里10号(双子座大厦南侧, 119中学西侧)(6567
3663, 6568 6553)
> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm; 6-10.30pm. Courtyard 4,
1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881): 98
Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区金宝街98号
(6521 2221)
Shanghai
Jade Garden (Shanghainese)
Southern cuisine in a sophisticated setting.
Jardin de Jade Jasmine-tea Smoked Duck
(RMB78), Xiaolongbao dumplings (RMB
22), Eight Treasure Rice (Babao Fan, RMB
22) and more. Particularly convivial on the
weekends with Cantonese families gathering for dim-sum feasts.
> Daily 11am-10.30pm Bldg 6, Jiqingli,
Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝
外大街吉庆里6号楼 (6552 8688, for other locations
visit www.jade388.com/su/index.aspx)
Shanghai Min
Many swear this chain has the best
Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the
Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity
remains.
> 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan
Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士购
物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777) Additional locations in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental Plaza;
Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www.online.
thatsmags.com for details)
Wang Jia Sha (Shanghainese)
Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with
Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crabmeat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs
(RMB62) for a bit of Adam action.
> Reservation (86 10) 6416 3469 S1-30a Taikoo Li
Sanlitun(on the third floor of i.t shop)朝阳区三里屯
路19号院太古里1号楼3层S1-30a号商铺
Sichuan
Chuan Ban *
This bright, modestly decorated dining hall
is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan
l istin g s
> Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; SatSun 7am-10pm 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei
Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区建国门内贡院头条5
号 (6512 2277, ext. 6101)
Transit ¥¥ *
Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and
its equally hot girls. While the latter are up
to you, the creative minds at Transit have
made some fiery additions to the classical,
chili-thumping canon, and they will charge
you for that knowledge. But unlike many
equally expensive joints, this is high-end
Chinese dining at its best.
> Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm. N4-36, Sanlintun Taikoo
Li North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三
里屯路11号三里屯Taikooli北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)
Yuxiang Renjia
Most branches maintain simple decorations, with black-and-white photos of
traditional houses, river towns in the south,
and strings of dried red chilis and garlic
hanging on the wall. So, too, is their menu:
old-fashion and reliably good. The lazi ji is
crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce
noodle, with spinach, is filling and refreshing. Assorted confections are guaranteed
to offer comfort to numbed-and-burned
tongues, too.
> Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha (Union
Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District
朝阳区朝阳门外大街20号联合大厦五层 (6588 3841
for other locations visit www.yuxiangrenjia.com)
Yunnan
Dali Courtyard *
If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll
have to trust the staff: there’s no menu,
it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard
setting. The price (RMB120pp) matches the
rustic ingredients.
> Daily Midday-2pm; 6-10.30pm. Gulou Dong Dajie,
67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城
区鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430)
Lost Heaven ¥ (Yunnan, SE Asian)
An emphasis on Yunnan characterises this
menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia
passage, with a grandiose yet
dark teak interior.
> Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am).
Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng
District 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698)
Middle 8th Restaurant *
Make room for the mushrooms – especially
the Kungpao – at this busy chain. Hip and
slightly swanky, without being pretentious,
this is a celebration of all things ‘south of
the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried worms, or
“crossing-the-bridge” noodles, beef jerkystyle yak meat and fresh, wild herbs galore.
> The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South
Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431)
Additional venues in Sanlitun; Tai Koo Li Mall; Indigo
Mall (see www.middle8th.com for details)
Yun’er Small Town
Folksy Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang.
Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs
with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp,
and banana leaf wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us crawling back.
> Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng
District, 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407)
Dumplings
Baoyuan Jiaoziwu
Famous for their rainbow of dyed dumplings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under
RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao
silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian
options and authentic Sichuan food.
> Daily 11am-10pm. North of 6 Maizidian Jie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586
4967)
Mr Shi’s Dumplings *
The ultimate in Beijing-style dumplings,
they really don’t come better than this. Find
it and you’ll never go elsewhere.
> 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号
(8405 0399, 131 6100 3826)
Hot Pot
Ding Ding Xiang *
Classier than most hot-pot joints, Ding Ding
XIang features a spacious dining room of
sweaty-faced patrons enjoying high-grade
huo guo in their own individual pot. The
delicious sesame sauce (the recipe is a
closely guarded secret) is a Beijing classic.
> Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, Yuanjia International
Apartments, Dongzhimenwai, Dongzhong Jie (opposite East Gate Plaza), Dongcheng District 东城区
东直门外东中街东环广场对面元嘉国际公寓2层 (6417
9289, for other locations visit www.dingdingxiang.
com.cn)
Haidilao
Hot pot in China is like religion; everyone’s
got their own brand. Either way, the raw
meats and vegetables, cooked communally,
is divine, and the outstanding customer
service makes Haidilao a fitting church
OPEN DOOR
> Daily, 24 hours. 2A Baijiazhuang Lu (beside No. 80
Middle School), Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家庄路
甲2号 (八十中学西侧)(6595 2982, for other locations
visit http:>www.haidilaohuoguo.com)
Regional
Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) *
Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the
moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim
restaurant. Eastern European and Central
Asian influences are evident throughout,
with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes
livening up traditional Chinese favorites.
> 弯弯月亮 16 Dongsi Liutiao 东四六条16号 (64005281)
Da Gui (Guizhou)
Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nestled into a charming traditional alleyway.
Munch happily into pickled greens and
don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black
sesame balls. They’re sensational.
> Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm. 69 Daxing Hutong,
Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口大兴胡
同69号 (6407 1800)
Makye Ame (Tibetan)
Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine
consists of more than just yak-butter tea,
the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain
serves up nomadic classics such as curried
potatoes and roast lamb. The original cosy
Xiushui location is great for winter.
> Daily 10-midnight, 11A Xiushui Nanjie,
Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外
秀水南街甲11号, (6506 9616)
Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) *
Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant
serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers
around, matched by enormous servings of
dishes like dapan ji (a chicken, potato and
pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy
tomato sauce) and baked flatbread (nang).
Nightly performances (starting at 7.40pm)
feature live music and belly dancers with
snakes – you might find yourself dragged
on-stage to join in.
> Daily 10.30am-11pm. Inside 7 Xingfu Yicun alley,
opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内
(6415 5741)
SóU, TANGLA HOTEL TIANJIN
So Very High
Located on the 49th floor of the Tangla Hotel, with insurmountable views over
the towers of central Tianjin, SóU ranks as one of the city’s more imposing
dining destinations. In the quiet serenity that such elevation offers, take in the
view of Tianjin’s ever-growing collection of skyscrapers poking through the
clouds as you prepare for a blowout dinner in their black marbled penthouse.
However, despite the appearance, a dinner at SóU doesn’t actually need to
be so wallet-busting. The buffet and a la carte combo (RMB388/pp + service)
blends the best of Japanese and European cuisine, equally suited to feasting
with colleagues or impressing a date. We select some hand crafted sashimi and
sushi, followed by some tempura and mixed salads, before sitting down to the
à la carte mains – Boston half lobster with cheese gratin or garlic butter, followed by a choice of Australian lamb chop, grain-fed sirloin steak or grain-fed
beef tenderloin. After dinner it’s cocktails and jazz in the upstairs bar
> Daily 6am-9:30pm (breakfast 6:30-10am, lunch 11:30am-2pm, dinner 5:309:30pm); 49F, Tangla Hotel Tianjin, No. 219 Nanjing Road, Heping District,
Tianjin天津市和平区南京路219号49层天津中心唐拉雅秀酒店(022 2321 5888)
WESTERN
Fine Dining
Aria ¥¥ (European) *
A gold standard of opulence and, at
RMB1,100 for the Wagyu beef and starters
around RMB150, the prices reflect that.
In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal
perfectly.
> Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; SatSun 6-10pm. Second floor, China World Hotel, 1
Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
建国门外大街 (6505 2266 ext. 36)
Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) *
Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not
here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact,
meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the
Piedmont wine it is named after.
> Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton
Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思
卡尔顿酒店内 (5908 8151)
Brasserie Flo ¥¥ (French) *
Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass
fittings establish the Parisian bona fides;
dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48
each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm.
The grandeur is matched only by the service, and the prices reflect the authenticity
of the experience.
> Daily 11am-midnight. 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135, www.flo.cn/
brasserie/restaurants/beijing)
Brian McKenna @The Courtyard ¥¥ (Contemporary Western) *
Innovative and creative dishes are de rigeur
at the Michelin-starred Irish chef’s reinvention of this long-standing Beijing fine
dining institution.
> Daily, restaurant 6pm-10pm, bar 5-11pm, 95
Donghuamen Avenue, Dongcheng District 东城区东
华门大街95号 (6526 8883)
Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) **
The Art Deco interior, swish staff and
breathtaking views over the archery towers
from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of
al-fresco dining, with world-class modern
European stylings and deliciously posh
afternoon tea. Our 2013 editor’s pick for
restaurant of the year.
We have a RMB1,000
meal voucher to
give away. To win,
email bjeditor@
urbanatomy.com
‘Mai Westin’
restaurant.
Mai, The Westin Chaoyang
Bento-ver Backwards to Serve You
For a country known for its minimalism, Mai Japanese restaurant in The Westin
Chaoyang strikes a lavish alternative. Gold and satin line the interior, and sushi
and champagne bars are located within.The opulence extends to its food, too,
with more than 30 kinds of sushi available on the menu; two types of fish are
imported directly from Japan. The sushi and sashimi tray (RMB358) includes
the chef’s choice of seven nigiri and three kinds of sashimi. Top that with the
restaurants selection of sake and it would appear Mai was built exclusively for
the hotel’s businessmen clientele. Not so. For much of the appeal of Mai can be
found in lunchtime bento boxes. The unajyu dozen (RMB148) includes a large
portion of eel on rice, tuna and salmon sashimi, miso soup, several kinds of
preserved vegetables, steamed egg and a small fruit plate. If the sushi and sake
are for businessmen looking to spend, then this bento is for the layman feeling
starved – we weren’t even able to finish the vast plate.
> Mon-Sun 5:30pm-10:30pm (Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm); 2/F, The Westin
Beijing Chaoyang, 7 Dongsanhuan Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路7号金茂威
斯汀大饭店2层 (5922 8888 ext. 8758)
l istin g s
OPEN DOOR
> Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen
Buxingjie, Chongwen District 东城区前门步行街2
号3层 (6702 2727, www.m-restaurantgroup.com/
capitalm/home.html)
Mio ¥¥
Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with
a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight
to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts
a superb squash tortellini by hand, and
pampers diners with desserts like the
deconstructed tiramisu.
>Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm
-10:30pm Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liang Ma Qiao
Road, Chaoyang District, 北京四季酒店亮马桥路48
号, 朝阳区(5695 8888)
(6407 6308)
Yi House (Contemporary Western)
Nestled in the confines of the 798 Art
District, Yi’s great tasting brunch is bettered
only by their wide range of cocktail concoctions. Sundays offer jazz brunches with
lobster and champagne. Our 2013 readers’
choice for Restaurant of the Year.
> Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am. 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798
Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818)
Café/Deli/Sandwich
Allday’s (Café)
S.T.A.Y. ¥¥ (French)
Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred
chef Alléno Yannick’s back-to-basics kitchen
concept, managed by the youthful team
of Maxime Gilbert as ‘Chef de Cuisine’
executing the quarterly menus, and Florian
Couteau working the ‘pastry library.’ Classic
dishes usually include dishes such as steak,
foie gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and
grill for simple fine-dining.
Tim’s Texas BBQ
Don’t Mess with Texas
You’ve got to hand it to Tim and that indistinguishable Texas BBQ of his. When
a fire in a neighboring restaurant forced authorities to shut off power to his
building, instead of kicking up a fuss he simply found a way to light up his digs
(using some e-bike batteries and some strip lighting) and continued to serve
the coldest beers and best margarita’s in town. Talk about stoic southern hospitality in the face of uncertainty. Nevertheless it’s been a rocky time for Tim, so
pay him a visit near the Silk Market to show your support. Monday night after
5pm it’s buy one get one free on brisket plate or sandwich; Wednesdays are
half dozen wings for RMB28, dozen for RMB50; Friday is unlimited cocktails and
well drink from 6-10pm for RMB98; and Saturdays is Shrimp Boil time – large
juicy shrimp in a spicy Cajun sauce. Reservations recommended.
> Daily 9am-midnight, Silk#2 building, 14 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水2号院 (6591 9161)
> Daily 11:30am -2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays
11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Level 1, 29
Zizhuyuan Road, Beijing 紫竹院路29号北京香格里拉
饭店 (6841 2211, Ext. 6727)
Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥
(Contemporary Western) **
Setting is everything here, especially if
it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist
temple. The bold contemporary European
cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service
alone is worthy of worship.
> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6–10pm. 23 Songzhusi
Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng District 东城
区沙滩北街嵩祝寺23号 (8400 2232, www.templerestaurant.com/)
Contemporary Western
Alfie’s ¥ (British)
What’s all this about, then? British gastropub classics, (like pukker fish
and chips, RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club interior, and located in a chic
modern art gallery-cum-mall. That’s what,
mate.
> Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served
on weekends, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22
(5662 8777)
Caribeño (Latin)
Heavy Cuban influence, but there are
dished from all over the Latin continent
here. The Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on
potato) is excellent – as are the Mojitos.
> Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza,
8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中
海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789)
Chi (Organic, Fusion)
Hutong dining par-excellence, with organic
ingredients all locally sourced, from the
owners of neighboring Saffron.
> Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67
Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道
营胡同67号 (6445 7076)
Grill 79 (Steak)
With views this good, Grill 79 would probably make it onto the list even if the food
was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then
that the kitchen is superb, and supported
by one of the most extensive wine lists in
town.
TRANSIT
Sichuan in Motion
Transit tells a tale of relocation in modern China, first opening in 2002 in a
hutong near Gongti, before the locale was slated for demolition four years
later. It has since found refuge on the third floor of Taikoo Li North in Sanlitun,
but has remained consistent throughout is its frankly stunning SichuaneseSoutheast Asian fusion cuisine.
The beauty of Transit’s fare lies in its ability to maintain the cuisine’s distinct sense of spice, without losing the complexity behind it, best exemplified
by dishes like the perennially popular ma-la Spicy Chicken (RMB98) and the
gloriously subtle braised Atlantic cod fish in Sichuan sauce (RMB 238) among
many others.
The restaurant is tastefully decorated throughout and while this is certainly
fine dining, it also feels relaxed and accessible. If you want to top off your meal
with a superbly-crafted cocktail, then the adjoining Cicada Ultralounge is just
moments away.
If you’ve been to Transit you’ll know that this is an absolute must in
Beijing. If you haven’t – go now.
> Daily 11am-2.30pm, 6-10pm; N4-36, Third Floor, Taikoo Li North, Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路三里屯VILLAGE北区 N4-36三层 (6417 9090)
> Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F,
China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai
Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸
大酒店79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424)
Missa (European) *
Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of
meat or the long list of expertly made and
creative cocktails going down your gullet,
you can’t really go wrong at this refined
relaxed lounge like restaurant. Highly
recommended
> Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Taikoo
Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯Taikooli北区3号楼3
层32-33 (137 1851 7917)
Mosto * ¥ (European, South American)
A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot,
thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for
modernising South American-style dishes
like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen.
> Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3
层 (5208 6030)
Stuff’d (Contemporary Western)
The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff
one kind of food in another. From sausage
calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it
all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus.
> Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang
Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同9号
Japanese-owned Allday’s is an oasis of calm
just outside the hustle and bustle of
Sanlitun. Plenty of options for a caffeine
boost compliment a wide range of Western
staples from the kitchen.
> Daily 7am-11pm, Unit 1, Tongguang Plaza, 12
Nongzhanguan South Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区农展馆南里12号通广大厦1楼底商 (6538 9488)
Beiluo Bread Bar (Café)
This local hipster café favorite offers inhouse baked bread and sandwiches but
we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles.
Gets cozy at night.
> Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng
District 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近南锣鼓巷)(8408
3069)
Café Zarah (Café)
Red armchairs, table candles and a matching Gaggia machine harmonize the creamy,
minimalist interior of this cafe, popular
with young professionals. The Austrianstyle breakfast sets here are the real deal,
while Zarah’s coffee also trumps just about
any in town.
> Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403
9807)
Element Fresh (Contemporary Western)
Another import from Shanggers, this is
boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching,
with somewhat questionable price tags.
The recent revamp also affected the latter.
> Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm.
833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Village South, Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯
Village南区8号楼833 (6417 1318)
MODO Urban Deli (Contemporary
Western)*
Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconventional and great fun, this compact eatery
was designed around an ever-changing
selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh
tapas style food and original finger foods.
The luxury sandwiches are fantastic for
picnics, with the smoked salmon and the
Cuban (RMB68), complete with crispy pork
belly, is one of the best sarnies ever.
> Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm. 3/F,
Sanlitun Taikoo Li South (close to Element Fresh), 19
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号
三里屯Taikooli南区3楼(近新元素) (6415 7207)
MOKA Bros (Contemporary Western) *
Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind
of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio
space, which also has a great selection of
cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more
indulgent.
> Sanlitun: Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am11:30pm, B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu
Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101B南楼 (5208
6079) > Solana: Solana Lakeside Dining Street, 6
Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区湖畔美食街
朝阳公园路6号院蓝色港湾 (5905 6259)
Nasca Café
Colorful and quirky shopping mall style
café, with Amazonian coffee, teas and
there’s a decent range of sandwiches and
pizzas, available for delivery.
> Daily 11am-10pm, B1/F, City Mall, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu,
Chaoyang 朝阳区新源南路1号都汇天地购物中心B1
楼 (6592 4537) > Additional branches in Sanlitun
South; Volkswagen Building, Liangmahe (see online.
l istin g s
The Rug (Contemporary Western,
Organic)*
With ingredients supplied by local organic
farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an
emphasis on sustainability, this Chaoyang
Park café’s menu of locally milled bagels is
a hit with green types, bored foreign moms
and freelance Macbook types.
> Mon-Fri 7.30am-10:30pm, Sat/Sun 9:30am10:30pm; Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang
Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South
Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉
园4号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) > Additional
location in Sanlitun Nan Jie
Vineyard Cafe on the River (British)
New Vineyard offshoot opposite of the Liangma River. Menu features British classics
like Fish & Chips and Bangers & Mash. The
breezy terrace is primed for a pint of the
handcraft beer or a carafe of Pimms.
>Daily Tu-Fr 1130am-3pm 6pm-12am kitchen
closes at 10pm, Sa-Su 1130am-3ppm 6pm-12am,
Liangmahe Nanlu, west side of Xindong Lu, across
the street from Yuyang Hotel, Chaoyang District, 朝
阳区亮马河南路新东路西侧渔阳饭店对面(8532 5335)
Wagas (Contemporary Western)
Quality eats with minimal pretension. This
stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element
Fresh offers some of the best and most
affordable Western lunch options in town.
The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a
crowd pleaser.
> Daily 8am-10pmS8-33, 3/F, 8 building, 19 South
Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯
Village南区三层 (6416-5829) Additional location in
The Kerry Centre (see www.online.thatsmags.com
for details)
American/BBQ/Grill
The Big Smoke
Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and
upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full
menu evenings-only (also delivers rotisserie
chicken via Uncle Otis).
> Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm.
First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails),
57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸
福村中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268,www.
uncle-otis.com)
Home Plate BBQ *
Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the
popularity of this entry-level
brick-smoker barbecue joint, that blossoms in the sunny months. Pulled-pork
sandwiches are the favorites, followed by
baby-back rib racks, but lesser dishes like
the rib tips, sides and burgers are just as
good. Beer and bourbons are taken care
of, too.
Burgers
Blue Frog
This Shanghai hamburger franchise has
been keeping Americans in China obese
since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is
always packed.
> Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S2 Tower,
S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区三里屯路太古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional
branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see www.bluefrog.com.cn for details)
Burger Bar
Don’t be fooled by the American diner-style
interior, Burger Bar’s pedigree of bap
fillings include wagyu beef, foie gras and
truffles. Burger King this ain’t.
> Sun-Thu 11:30am-10pm, Fri/Sat 11:30am-midnight,
B2/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Road 朝阳区东
大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二层 ( 5690 7000)
Steak
29 Grill (Contemporary Western) *
Top-notch steak, along with just about every other cut of meat found in the barnyard
in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca.
> Tues-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm; 3/F Corad Beijing, 29
Dongsanhuan Beilu. Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环
北路9号1层 (6584 6270)
Morton’s of Chicago ¥¥ (American) *
Meat so tender the knife falls through it:
ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide
praise. Expensive, but where else are you
going to get steak this good? (Try the
RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash)
> Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5-10:30pm; 2/F, Regent
Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区金宝
街99号丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777)
Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar ¥¥ (Contemporary Western) *
The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at
this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled
cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus
start from around RMB428 and merrily
spiral. But the meat is unquestionably succulent, and cooked exactly to order. Quality
seafood and gorgeous desserts, too.
> Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm.
InterContinental Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong
Jie, Xicheng District 西城区金融街11号北京金融街洲
际酒店 (5852 5921)
Flamme (Contemporary Western)
> Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A
Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区秀水南街11
号 (8563 6215)
Tim’s Texas BBQ
Who is Tim, you ask, and what’s his Texas
BBQ doing in Beijing? Providing all ya’ll
homesick ‘Murricans with the best damn
home-style briskets, ribs and steaks –
slow-cooked over a mesquite wood BBQ
– this side of the Rio Grande. Tex Mex and
Margherita’s recommended, partner.
> Daily 9am-midnight, Silk#2 building, 14
Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路14
号秀水2号院 (6591 9161)
Union Bar and Grill
The definitive US-style diner in Beijing,
Union’s extensive menu – from eggs
Benedict to baby back ribs – covers all
bases and hours, served by friendly staff.
The warm atmosphere tempts many to
stay all day.
> Mon-Fri 11am-11pm,Sat-Sun 11am-midnight. S631, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区
6号楼3层S6-31 (6415 9117)
The Woods *
New York native-owned, Manhattan-style
restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrapers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple
than that.
> Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101,
No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, 朝外大街6号新城国际1号搂
101 (6533 6380)
be the biggest in town.
> Daily 11:30am-midnight (closed Mondays) 14
Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街
张旺胡同14号 (6405 4352)
Italian
Assaggi ¥ *
This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy
district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for
summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth
a return visit.
Bene ¥ *
Chef Ricci will have you singing like a soprano with his pork ravioli and prize-winning
tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and
extensive wine selection.
> Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton
Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road,
Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798
8995)
Cepe ¥
In a city inundated with Italian offerings,
Cepe manages to stand out thanks to it’s
attention to the smallest detail – everything
from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham
is import quality, and the wine is superb.
Consider it the culinary equivalent of a
finely tailored suit.
> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The RitzCarlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie,
Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District
Spanish
Agua ¥
6th Anniversary
is Coming Soon!
Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish
invasion, Agua excels with reasonably
priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo and
jamon.
> Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81
那里花园 (5208 6188)
西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒店大堂
(6601 6666)
Migas ¥ *
The boys at Migas have turned a concept
bar into a thriving Mediterranean restaurant, bar and party venue, and one of
summer’s rooftop destinations.
Isola Bar & Grill
Isola’s elegant design, even by Tai Koo Li
North standards, is classic Italian panache –
and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata,
Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are
all fantastic, but just as good is a classic
Margherita pizza.
> Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81
那里花园6层 (5208 6061)
> Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building
3, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47
商铺 (www.gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, [email protected]; 6416 3499)
Mercante ¥ *
Old World family charm in an intimate
hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally,
service) slows with a rustic menu from Bologna offering an assortment of homemade
pastas and seasonal mains.
O’Steak
A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that
rare anymore, and here we have affordable
but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the
Irish sounding name, not a pint of Guinness
in sight.
> Daily midday-midnight, 55-7 Xingfucun Zhonglu,
Chaoyang District, 朝阳区幸福村中路55-7 (8488
8250)
Parnas ¥
Don’t be fooled by the Greek name – this
Nali Patio is true Gallic gastronomy, albeit
with a hint of Asian fusion. Nice terrace bar
on the roof.
> Mon-Thu 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-9:30pm; Fri/
Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm; 1F, Nali Patio, 81
Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那
里花园一层 (5288 7665)
Opera Bombana ¥
Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three
Michelin stars to his name, earned at his
wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant
Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef
to do so outside of his native land, and
certainly the only one in Beijing.
German
Drei Kronen 1308 *
Authentic (in as much as any brauhaus
with a Filipino cover band can be) displays
of armour and brewing kits draw regular
evening crowds for the superb pork
knuckle (RMB148) and heavy-duty helles
(pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed
on-site, RMB48-108).
> Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green
Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大
桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177)
Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing.
Flamme (pronounced ‘Flame,’ apparently)
remains top value, however, especially on
2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an
eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail
menu.
> Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun
10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm,
Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33
Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District 三里屯北街33号
3.3服装大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989
177) Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai,
Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www.
tubestationpizza.com.cn for details)
> Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun
Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454
4508)
> Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402
5098)
> Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard
(20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right),
Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路
路口,往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584)
Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie
NOLA
N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the
leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack,
shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken,
jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys –
yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers
and cocktail also make NOLA a popular
watering hole. Great service comes as
standard.
Guess what? It works. Killer range of classic
Cali’ cocktails, too.
Pizza
La Pizza
> Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti
Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5
号楼1层(6503 5555)
> Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm FriSat. S4-33, Third Floor, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯
Taikooli南区3层S4-33室 (6417 8608) > 269 Indigo
Mall, Jixianqiao Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18
号颐堤港商场269号 (8420 0270)
Niajo ¥ *
Mexican/Tex Mex
Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex)
Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+
imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the
walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a
bite of the custardy flan.
>Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am,
S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Taikoo Li, 19 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Taikooli南
区(6416 5212)
El Gran Bocado (Mexican)
This unassuming little taquiera has a colorful menu of classic Mexican and Tex Mex
dishes, and one of the best nacho plates
we’ve had in Beijing.
> Daily 11am-midnight, 1/F, Just Make Bldg,
Xingfucun Zhonglu 幸福村中路杰作大厦1层 (6416
1715)
Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar (KoreanMexican fusion)
Tucked away near Gulou, this hip little
hutong concept is truly one of a kind in
Beijing. Quesadillas with kimchi and bibimbaps with melted cheese and hot sauce.
At the higher echelon of Beijing pizzeria is
this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a
wood-fired oven and Neapolitan manners.
Further branch in Solana and buffet
restaurant in Sanlitun 3.3
> Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm.
1/F, 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区三里屯路33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136
5582) > Solana Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6
Chaoyang Park Road 朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾3号
1层, SA-48 ( 5905 6106) La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun
3.3 Mall, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大
厦4层 (5136 5990) > SOHU Shangdu Branch: SH1112,
SOHO Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都SH1112号(5900 3112)
Tube Station
Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza
quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to
Order the paella (their star dish) together
with some tapas and be automatically
transported to Spain. With homely
Mediterranean influences and a charming
management, Niajo is a prefect option to
enjoy a pleasant meal at the heart of
Sanlitun. Pro tip: a fantastic set-lunch deal
is also offered.
> Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81
那里花园3层 (5208 6052)French
Paulaner Brauhaus
l istin g s
The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses,
Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the
hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the
provinces. It can be pricey but is usually
worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest.
> Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基
饭店 (6465 3388 ext. 5732)
everything on the menu is authenticI
Indian, espcially the rather fine naan.
> Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie
Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (64011675)
Indian Kitchen
African/Middle Eastern
1001 Nights (Middle Eastern)
There’s no missing this beast of a Middle
Eastern on the way into Sanlitun. The
whole Arabic dining package is on offer
here, from Kebabs, to shisha to belly dancing shows between courses.
> Daily 11am-2am, 3-4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳
区工体北路3-4号 (6532 4050)
朝阳区三里屯后街同里2层 (6467 2961)
Mosaic Restaurant & Bar (Middle
Eastern)
The go to curry house among Beijing’s
homesick Indian community, this ever
popular no-nonsense restaurant has built
up a solid reputation thanks to its wide
range of quality dishes and particularly
friendly service. Looking good after a
recent rennovation and available on
JinShiSong online delivery.
> Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun
Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号
2楼 (6462 7255)
Ganges
Conveniently located above popular
Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid
Indian curry house provides the perfect
post-match culinary accompaniment. Or
put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving
after eight pints of beer.
Promising “the best shawarmas and
shishas in town”, Mosaic restaurant & bar
offers a range of great value delicacies and
cocktails, served up in a cozy setting with
a friendly and personalized service. One of
the few places in Beijing to offer genuine
Arabic shishas (hookah), Mosaic is the
hidden secret of Sanlitun! Be sure to ask for
the boss’s Arabian fusion creations that are
sure to rock your taste buds.
This upscale seafood restaurant proves that
chargrill and composure can go together.
Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute
bargain.
Purple Haze (Thai)
Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches
and backpacker bars, Purple Haze has to
make do for the best Thai experience in
town. Has all the classics like veggie spring
rolls (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and
curries (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the
seafood pad Thai (RMB45).
Saveurs de Coree
This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone
several changes in recent years, not least
its move away from the hipper-than-thou
confines of Nanluguxiang. Fortunately,
the menu remains largely intact. The Shin
Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while
the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too
good to be true.
> Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun
Road 19, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号
楼 S1-30B (64163439, http:>www.greyhoundcafe.
com.hk, (6416 3439)
> Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899)
Biteapitta (Middle Eastern) *
Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel)
and RMB58 kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta
has the Middle-East mid-range market all
wrapped up in a fluffy pitta.
> Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio,
Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District
Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion)
Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok offering Thai food with a twist and served in
a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Tai Koo
Li Sanlitun then.
Susu (Vietnamese)
The first step is finding it. Follow that up
with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, extensive wine list and a listing of top-notch
Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches,
stews, soups and la Vong fish.
> Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong
Xixiang, Dongcheng District 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10
号 (8400 2699)
Japanese
Hatsune ¥ (California Japanese)
Less a Japanese than a California roll joint,
Hatsune is now an old favorite among the
sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though
less so among sashimi purists.
> Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, Heqiao Bldg
C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路
甲8号和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional locations in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall
(see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)
Hyoki ¥ (Japanese)
Indian
Raj
> Daily 10am-10pm 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D,
Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie 朝阳
门外大街乙6, 朝外SOHO, D座2层0260 (5900 1288)
Additional location in Wudaokou (see www.online.
Veggie Table (Western, Asian) *
Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine
is by no means the exclusive preserve of
Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson
fans, this superbly honed eatery offers
some of the very best sandwiches – vegetarian or otherwise – found anywhere in
the city.
bars
See www.ganges-restaurant.com/en/ for more
locations.
TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS
About This guide represents our
editors’ top 40 picks, and includes some
That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*)
have been personally reviewed by our
experts, and scored according to the
cuisine, experience and affordability.
South-East Asian
Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya)
Hidden away in the depths of the Sofitel
Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese restaurant
of all private dining rooms has some
stunning food, and is the only place to
sample traditional Japanese paper hot pot
in Beijing.
This chain specializes in Nyonya style
cooking – ostensibly Malaysian but with a
mix of Chinese, South-East Asian and
European influences resulting in lots of
bold flavors and bright colors.
> CBD: EB105, B1/F, China World Mall Phase
1, 1 Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门
外大街1号国贸商城一期地下一层EB105 (6505
0376); Taiyanggong: Unit 10-11, 4/F, CapitaMall
Taiyanggong, Chaoyang 朝阳区凯德Mall太阳宫4层
10/11号 (8415 0863) www.nyonyakitchen.com
Malacca Legend
Malaysian food with a view, this spacious
and airy restaurant sits on the banks of Shunyi’s Roma Lake, making a great spot for
some beef rendang or green curry prawns.
> Daily 11am-10pm; 6 Luodong Road, Luogezhuang
Village, Houshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪镇罗
各庄村罗各东路6号 (8049 8902, www.malaccalegend.com)
Cafe Sambal (Malaysian)
When it comes to Malay-style food in a
hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly,
it’s something of a niche category, but then
so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitanstyle chicken is pricey, but worth it.
> Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just
east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng District西城区豆腐池
胡同43号旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875)
Tucked away in musty old building just
underneath the drum tower, this
curryhouse may look Chinese but
Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian)
Like many Beijing residents, this place started out in Wudaokou and it’s since made
a successful migration to Chaoyang. Great
range of veggie fare, reasonably priced and
they offer cooking classes as well.
Dongzhimen Branch: 朝阳区东直门外大街28号2层
(6417-0900) Sanlitun Branch: 朝阳区工体北路13号世
贸百货1号楼2楼202室 (64160181)
> Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Ring
Road 工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 (8454 3838)
Asian
Vegetarian
> Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order 10.30pm) 19
Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道
营胡同19号. (6446 2073)
Rumi (Middle Eastern)
Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty
Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful helpings of traditional Persian stews and tasty
kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish kebab,
the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r.
> Dongmen Building, 12 Dongzhimen Wai,
Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街12号东门下楼 (5785
3538) > Additional location in Shunyi (see online
for details)
> Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741
5753)
> Daily 11am to 10.30pm. 2nd Floor, 28 Dongzhimen
Wai Dajie, Chaoyang District
> Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North
of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32
号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065)
Pinotage ¥ (South African) *
A seasonal blend of Dutch, English
and regional African influences, this
contemporary and stylish eatery has an
impressive selection of fine import-quality
meats, and wines to match. The traditional
borewor ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is
tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork
tenderloin (RMB120) makes the trip out to
Shunyi worth it.
> Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 9.30pm. 5/F,
LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 Jianguomenwai
Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号
双子座大厦东塔5层 (51096036/6037, for other locations visit http:>www.aijiangshan.com)
4Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion)
Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his celebrity TV work to host this part-Vietnamese
venue, serving up steaming bowls of pho
with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar.
> Tue-Sun 11am-2am, 27 Dashibei Hutong (near
west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡
同27号烟袋斜街西口附近) (6401 7797)
8-Bit
Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gaming – why didn’t anyone do this sooner?
Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some
real gems make up an ever-growing collection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable
RMB25 a glass.
> 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo Road,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达北京
酒店6层 (6581 0072)
> Daily, 1pm-2am, 49 Jiaodaokou Nandajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街49号 (159
1025 6538))
Inagiku *
This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s oldest and most celebrated restaurants is as
near to perfection as you’re likely to find.
Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the
handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB 80) is not
to be missed.
Apothecary ¥ *
Golf ball-sized ice cubes, infusions, fussy
bar-tending and (allegedly) snooty staff
have made the Japanese-style Apothecary
bar a divisive choice to visit. See for yourself: they also serve quality Cajun food.
> Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm. Rm 315, 3/F, Park Life,
Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生活3层
315室 (8517 2838)
Sushi Yotsuba **
It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu
RMB1,000), but what would you expect
from some of the best sushi in town?
Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is a
cut above.
> Dongcheng branch: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10
Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng District 东城
区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699)
Lido branch: 2F, No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区将台西路9-3号2层 (8420 0998)
Sake Manzo *
The barmen here are serious about their
sake. Boasting one of the best stocked
drinks cabinets in town with over 60 different sakes on offer, this super-cool little
eatery is the perfect place to unwind after
a hard day’s toil. The sashimi is fresh to the
cut, and the beer-marinated chicken is out
of this world. One of the very best and least
appreciated restaurants in town.
> Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436
1608)
Korean
Ai Jiang Shan
> Tue-Sun 6pm-late (kitchen closes 1am). 3/F, Nali
Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯
路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6040)
The Bar *
This relative newcomer (sometimes known
as Third Floor) has years of savvy behind
it, meaning you can absolutely trust the
cocktail menu. Manager Jack Zhou and his
brother offer sterling service, while the
décor is handsome and low-key.
> Daily 4pm-late. 3/F Friendship Youth Hostel, (100m
west of Sanlitun Houjie), Chaoyang District 朝阳区北
三里屯友谊青年酒店三层(3.3大厦西侧) (6415 9954)
The Brick
A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll
find this neighbourhood drinking hole-inthe brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey
or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails
(including the devastatingly boozy RMB80
Terminator) are probably needed for the
bizarre Wednesday pub quiz.
> Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31
Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao),
Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院
天之骄子2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677)
CICADA Ultralounge ¥
The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge
in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s
trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge
bar with mixology credentials, the Whisky
Sours and Smoky Havana’s are worth the
cost.
l istin g s
> Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33
(6418 9898)
d.Lounge ¥ *
The fancy spelling tells you all you need to
know about this chic cocktail lounge in a
stunning archway location. Great on school
nights, this place can become horribly busy
at weekend.
> Daily 8pm-late. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (opposite
the Rock and Roll Club), Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体
北路4号 (6593 7710)
El Nido *
The first hutong hang-out to patent the
fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El
Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly
in summer. The roast leg of mutton place
next door is one of the best locally.
> Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng
District 东城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089)
Enoterra
Looking for an affordable glass of wine
with that date? Look no further than Nali
Patio’s wine center. Although the food
leaves a bit to be desired, the selections are
vast, and if anything, you can enjoy a nice
cheese plate with that tart glass of vino.
> Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那
里花园D405室 (5208 6076)
First Floor
First Floor is like that friend who’s too
popular to properly enjoy their company.
At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with
regulars and the passing tourist trade all
baying at the bar. A good place to meet
new friends, perhaps.
> Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floorbeijing.com)
Fubar
Slightly past its prime, this basement bar is
trying to rediscover the speakeasy pretence
that made the place its name. Live lounge
music and a vast amount of pours are starting to persuade people it’s succeeding.
> 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday
and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District,
Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工体北路8号工人
体育场东门内 (6593 8227)
Glen ¥
Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve
endured poor service and drinks that are
scandalous at the price), which is located in
a decidedly downbeat compound. But whisky lovers have been known to swear by its
selections and dark, intimate atmosphere.
See for yourself.
> 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing,
16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯
路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191)
Glen Classic ¥
Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel,
Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky
bar where discerning drinkers can sink
into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while
away the hours. Huge range of whiskies
and rums are personally selected by expert
owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend
you something special.
> Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required,
minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26
Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草
园26号 (6551 6788)
Great Leap Brewery 大跃啤酒 ¥ *
The bar that began the whole Beijing microbrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes
in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB2540) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan
peppercorn ale was memorably good.
Reservations used to be recommended
for their original hutong brewhouse, but
the opening of a wildly popular new pub
on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers
there instead.
> Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm,
6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区豆角
胡同6号 (5717 1399) >Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm;
Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12
Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 ( 6416-6887, www.
greatleapbrewing.com)
Lounge rewards the intrepid with good artwork and comfortable seating, suggesting
a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great
prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix
drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have
to call them to find it, though.
> Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments,
Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
双花园南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613)
Ichikura ¥
One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town,
this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind
a theater also offers terrific cocktails.
Although less expensive than several rivals,
you’ll want to indulge.
> Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36
Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环
北路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107)
The Irish Volunteer
Everything – from the red-faced owner to
the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged with
alcoholism, doggerel and drunken regret.
A good place to down a pint and a pizza
before heading into town, then.
> Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido
Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台路311
号 (6438 5581)
The James Joyce *
With its roaring fire and portraits of Joyce,
the ‘JJ’ is a homing beacon to anyone craving an authentic Irish pub atmosphere (i.e.
without tacky Guinness-related gimmicks).
> Daily 11am-2am14 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区新东路14号 (6415 9125)
Jane’s & Hooch ¥ *
Acclaimed by some foreign press as one
of the best bars in the world (cough), this
not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard
of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It
serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite
Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic
speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive
staff and unimpeachable cocktails. The
drawbacks? Weekends can be horriblky
busy – and there is a frankly absurd list of
house rules marring the menu.
> Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, 工体北路
4号院 ( 6503 2757)
LIV Club
Another cavernous, kitsch and costly club –
exactly what Gongti needs, where bars are
already crammed next each other like shiny
stilettos on Imelda Marcos’s shelves. But
who cares, right? Spend it, flaunt it – buy
another pair.
MIX
A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix
is one of those places in Beijing you have
to experience before you leave. Not much
is forbidden in this underground hip-hop
disco palace and if you don’t leave with
hook-up in tow then you’re doing something very wrong.
> Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker’s Stadium North
Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场北门内
6506 9888, 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, mixclub@
sohu.com
Mai Bar *
Understated hutong hideaway with a long
list of some of the best cocktails in town.
> Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城
区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871)
Hidden Lounge *
Although frustrating to find, Hidden
> 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng
District 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718,
Mao Mao Chong **
The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their
sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorninfused vodka drink that’s a long way from
Moscow – are unique infusions using
local ingredients and know-how. Grungey
without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash
while still keeping it real. And those pizzas.
> Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店
1层 (6561 8833)
> Tuesday to Sunday 12pm-2am. 44 Baochao Hutong,
Dong Cheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同44号
(136 9142 5744)
China Bar ¥¥
Top views from the 65th floor and flash
drinks are the attractions on offer at this
hip hotel bar.
Parlor
Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before
heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speakeasy and you’ll fit right in.
> Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区
新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135)
Q Bar ¥
Atop one of the city’s most average-looking
hotels is one of its classiest (and certainly
oldest) institutions. Be prepared to wait for
your drinks, though. The rooftop terrace
is one of the main lures, so in winter, you
may want to look elsewhere.
> Daily 5pm-2am. Top floor of Eastern Inn Hotel, 6
Baijiazhuang Lu (on the corner of Sanlitun Nanlu),
Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家庄6号朝阳门医院北门东
100米三里屯南路逸羽连锁酒店顶楼 (6595 9239, www.
qbarbeijing.com)
Revolution *
Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but
if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia
would be it. The East may be red but their
cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman.
Xian ¥
This enlongated bar space makes a nice
spot for refreshment after a day spent
shopping at neighboring Indigo.
> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST
Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥22
号北京东隅酒店一层 (8414 9810, www.xian-bar.com)
Sports Bars
Cuju *
This tiny sports bar is frequently packed
with NFL fans but don’t expect rowdy jocks.
Great Moroccan food and a connoisseur’s
selection of rums and beers lure a more
sophisticated set. It’s popular with the
owner’s friends but all are welcome.
细管胡同28号东四北大街 (6407 9782)
The Den
At the opposite end of the 24-hour drinking spectrum from Centro, The Den is a
seedy sports joint that starts off sedate and
grows steadily sadder as night turns to day.
It can get rough and ready come dawn.
Solid (cheap) menu, good location and
those opening times earn it a place.
Salud 老伍 *
A Nanluoguxiang institution, with everything from cheap beer to (loud) live music
and low beams. The rum infusions are a
particular favorite on cold nights. Latest
branch in WDK a welcome addition to surrouding student dives.
> Open 24 hours. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边
> NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66
Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷
66号 (6402 5086)
The Local *
Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come
into its own, with large (yet strangely
unobtrusive) screenings of sports and
political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and
a nice selection of draughts and cocktails.
Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t
need another.
> Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工
体北路4号院 (6591 9525)
> Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 5pm-midnight, Thu 5pm1am, Fri 5pm-late, Sat 2pm-late, Sun 2-10pm; 56
Dongsi Batiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四八条56号
(6538 5537)
Paddy O’Shea’s
Owner Karl Long has airlifted an entire
Irish theme pub, including residents, from
a council estate in Limerick and gently
deposited it in central Beijing. With plenty
going on, including pub quiz and sports,
no one seems to have noticed.
The Tree
A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene,
you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer
aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere.
Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the
Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and
Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors).
> Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai
Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号
(6592 6290)
> Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back Street
三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299)
> Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street,
Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里
屯酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面
(6415 1954)
V Sports
Spacious, comfortable, huge screens and
no rowdy drunken cretins, V Sports makes
a claim for the champion of Beijing sports
bars.
Twilight ¥ *
A downtown version of Sanlitun mainstay
Apothecary, complete with mood jazz and
those premium cocktails, this Japanese
whisky bar makes you feel as far away from
the busy boulevards whizzing below as
you’d want.
> Daily 5:30pm-6am, Gongti North Gate East side,
Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333)
Nightclubs
> Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai SOHO,
Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东
三环中路39号建外SOHO东区5号别墅3层 (5900 5376)
XIU ¥¥
While Thursday’s Ladies Nights attracts
the sort we’d sooner avoid, XIU is beloved
among aspirational white-collar Chinese,
wooed by its sprawling chic-ness and
playboy clientele. A lively house band keeps
you indoors, but a superb terrace backons
you otherwise: a fantastic midweek drinking venue in the summer.
> Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai SOHO,
Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三
环中路39号建外SOHO东区5号别墅3层 (5900 5376)
Hotel Bars
> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park
Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区建国门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40)
> 28 Xiguan Hutong, off Dongsibeidajie
> Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝
阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776)
Slow Boat Brewery Taproom **
This popular microbrewery has its own
pub hidden away in Dongcheng’s hutongs.
Quality ales that change depending on
the season, heated floors and a great little
kitchen round out the deal.
> Daily 11am-2am. 2/F, 7 Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯后街7号 (6416 2575)
Centro ¥
Although it’s no longer quite the go-to
place for beautiful people it once was, Centro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly
jazz performaces, spacious and recently
renovated lounge areas and classic drinks
like the blue-cheese martini.
Modernista Old Cafe and Tapas Bar ¥ *
The hipsters love this little brasseriethemed absinthe bar. Regular live shows
mean it can often get pretty crowded. That
should piss off the hipsters, yet still they
keep coming.
Lucky Man ¥ *
The cognoscenti rate this quiet Gulou
whisky bar as one of the smartest to satisfy
your lust for the other ‘amber nectar.’
Luga’s
The closest Beijing has to a municipal
drinking hall, the four-storey Luga’s has
it all: terrible Tex-Mex, decent Italian, a
busy pool table, loud music, smoke, 400
flatscreen TVs all showing different sports…
yet still we like it (sort of). Basement bar
Taps provides a German-themed refuge,
with serve-your-own draught Paulaner and
quality food.
> Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F,
China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大
酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433)
> Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417
6688)
> Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan
Xilu 展春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层
Heaven Supermarket
A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedraggled English teachers, Heaven sells the
cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You
can also hang around and appreciate the
afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the
food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen.
> Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to The
James Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路16号
(6415 6513)
Mesh ¥
Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a
late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior
and underground soundtrack draws the
bright young things (and on LGBT Thursdays, quite a few old things, too).
> Mon-Sun 9pm - 5am. 6 Gonti Xi Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工体西路6号 (6708 9898)
> Daily 7pm-1.30am. 157 Gulou Dongdajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街157 (6405
4167)
Atmosphere ¥¥
Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of
the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+
swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-degree views of the 700AQI PM2.5.
www.maomaochongbeijing.com)
The Bar at Migas ¥
A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather
than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one
calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get
the party started. Good-enough cocktails
range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about
the music, man.
> Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to
Friday 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061)
Dada *
It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for
too long, but already Dada is the hippest
hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines
under rock house Temple offer an intimate
place to nod along to an eclectic range of
all things electro from the best names on
the underground scene.
> Daily, 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong
l istin g s
Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B
栋101室 (183 1108 0818)
朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀酒店五层 ( 139 1029 0260,
www.alonapilates.com)
Lantern *
Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture
Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the
strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars
known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music,
it also makes good drinks and attracts
international electronica DJs.
Broadwell International Tennis Academy
Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis
Center, this indoor club boasts a complete
state-of-the-art air-supported structure for
all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with
an advanced lighting system and controlled
climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect
their service and batting a few balls.
> Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s
Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体
育场西门向北100米(139 119 77989)
School Bar
Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled
fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this
alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by
Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers.
> Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406
9947)
Vics
Separated at birth from its identical twin
brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti
sweatbox meat-market chic at its very
finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody
Russians and jailbait students, helping Vics
to become one of the most infamous clubs
in the capital.
> Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路
1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www.
broadwell.cn1)
Lily Nails
A long-time favorite among locals and
expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a
nail spa; they have a variety of pampering
treatments and waxing services too.
> Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) 2 Ginza Mall, 48
Dongzhimenwai Dajie (southeast of Dongzhimen
Bridge), Dongcheng District东城区东直门外大街48号
东方银座2楼(东直门桥东南侧) (8447 7178); 2) Shop
2049, 2/F, 3.3 Shopping Center, 33 Sanlitun Beijie,
Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北街33号3.3大厦2层
2049号 ( 5136 5829, 136 8148 3308)
Yihe 42° Hot Yoga
> Daily 8:30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North
Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293
0333)
Yugong Yishan 愚公移山
We’ve lost more body weight than we’d
care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Fortunately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop
DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits
from across the globe – were worth it. The
upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat
glands below.
> Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west
of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng
District 东城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711)
Bookstores
The Bookworm *
This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village,
providing a cozy atmosphere for browsing
bibliophiles. The Western bookstore, library, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and event
space always has a cultured evening on its
shelves for both adults and kids.
> Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road,
Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号楼 (6586
9507, www.beijingbookworm.com)
Page One
The go-to shop for new releases and special
requests. With sister venues in Hong Kong,
Taiwan and Singapore, and two locations in
Beijing, its network allows for fresh authors
whilst upholding an extensive collection
of titles.
> Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China World
Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区国贸商城三期地下二层3B201 (8535
1055, www.pageonegroup.com)
Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商业
中心B1楼50号(8426 0408, www.pageonegroup.com)
BEAUTY & FITNESS
JM Cosmetic Plastic Surgery Clinic
A top cosmetic & plastic surgery clinic with
over 18 years of experience in Beijing.
They provide a full range of surgical and
non-surgical cosmetic procedures. Their
standard for service is focused on maintaining the best technologies in the field of
cosmetic surgery and achieving beautiful
results safely.
> Building C-D, Dawang Building, 12 Xi Dawang Lu,
Chaoyang 朝阳区西大望路12号大望写字楼C-D座 (400
0989 809, 138 1088 7442, www.jingmeihui.cn)
Luxura Tanning Center
This tanning salon has some of the city’s
best state-of-the-art tanning beds, all
imported from Europe. For the sexiest tan
possible, get custom-made tanning tips
from the well-trained staff.
> Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) Rm 307, Bldg 4, Jianwai Soho
39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳
区东三环中路建外SOHO西区4楼307室(5900 0427,
www.luxura.net) 2) 5005, 5/F, 3.3 Sanlitun, Chaoyang
District朝阳区三里屯3.3大厦5层5005号 (5136 5186,
www.luxura.net)
Alona Pilates Studio
Pairing up traditional Pilates with an innovative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates
offers classes designed to tone and whip
you into shape fast. It also provides a
personalized experience for all its students,
regardless of fitness, strength and
flexibility levels.
> Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1
Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District
3 locations in Beijing: the best Yoga for
Beginners! No previous experience
necessary - and if your body is a bit stiff –
that’s okay! Yihe knows it can be a little
intimidating to begin your journey into
Yoga, so they are available to answer any
questions you may have. It’s a great
workout for the body and calming for the
mind. Call them today on (5905 6067, 8405
9996, 8599 7395)
Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南
角京汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower A,
CITIC Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang
District朝阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室
(6500 6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech
Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀区中关
村科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308室 (8286 1956);
4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo
Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公
寓16号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset
Fortune Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang
District朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层
(8440 1926)
United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic
The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in
Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital
in Lido (which has its own dental clinic
onsite). A comprehensive range of services
are at hand, including restorative dentistry
and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all
appointments.
> 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate
Development Zone, Shunyi District北京和睦家医院牙
科诊所, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102)
SDM Dental 固瑞齿科
The full spectrum of dentistry. Services
include teeth cleaning, root-canal treatment, porcelain crowns, dental implants,
orthodontics, cosmetic dentistry, fillings,
pediatric dentistry, extraction, teeth-whitening and veneers. Credit cards accepted.
> www.sdmdental.com**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. CBD/
Guomao>2/F,NB210, China World Shopping Mall,
1 Jianguomenwai Dajie建外大街1号国贸商城地下2
层 Tel:6505-9439/31/93**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.Olympic
Area>F-0186B Sunshine Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of
Sunshine Plaza)亚运村安立路68号阳光广场东侧 .
Tel: 6497-2173,6498-2173**Mon-Sun 10am-19pm.
Shunyi>LB07-08, No.99 Euro Plaza, YuXiang Road.北
京顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场LB07-08号.Tel:
8046-6084**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. Sanyuanqiao>FC222,
21st Century Hotel, 40 Liang Maqiao Lu亮马桥40号
21世纪饭店2层 Tel: 6466-4814, 6461-2745**MonFri 9am-8pm.Haidian>4076B, 4/F, New Yansha
Mall, Yuanda Lu远大路金源燕莎购物中心Mall4层
4076B Tel:8859-6912/13**Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm
Guomao>Rm 5, 3/F, North Tower, China Overseas
Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli. 北京朝阳区光华东里8号中
海广场北楼3层05号.Tel: 5977-2488
北街南43号楼 (135 0137 2971)
Tony & Guy
A favorite of many Beijing expats, the
trendy British chain features international products, knowledgeable (generally
somewhat English-speaking) staff, and a
never-ending stream of well-heeled hip
clientele. Cuts run the gamut from basic to
haute coiffure, depending on which grade
of stylish you select.
> Daily, 10am-9pm. LG 41, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港地铁层
41号 (8426 0688, for other branches see)
HEALTH SERVICES
Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital
With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality
inpatient facilities, home visits, night services and transportation assistance, Amcare
provides a trustworthy experience. Englishspeaking services include pediatrics,
gynecology and obstetrics.
> 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西
路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www.
amcare.com.cn)
Beijing International Medical Center
(IMC)
Established in 1993, the International Medical Center-Beijing counts on an expert team
of foreign doctors, offering a wide range of
medical services, including family medicine,
psychological services, dental, ob/gyn,
pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for
travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds are also
available. English, Farsi, Japanese, Chinese,
Arabic and Russian spoken.
> 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50
Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路
50号燕莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465
1384/28, www.imclinics.com)
Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Children’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院
HAIR SALONS
Catherine de France
> Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 3/F, No. 2 South Building, Blue
Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区大望路
蓝堡国际中心南写字楼2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www.
yh42.com); 2) 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang
Gongyuan Xilu Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳公园西
路6号,蓝色港湾14号,三层 (5905 6067/77, www.yh42.
com) ; 3) 3/FA Shimao Plaza 13 Gongti Beilu Chaoyang
District朝阳工体北路新中西里13号巨石大厦3FA
Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Beiyuan
Lu北苑路小关北里甲2号. Tel: 6499-0000. [email protected], en.hmcare.net
Sport
Heyrobics
“Sweat like a Swede!” they say with
annoyingly smug grin and toned abs.
The only fitness craze worth following in
Beijing, Heyrobics is all about a punishing full-body workout set to pumping
beats – not forgetting the fluorescent spandex. Differing classes for all
abilities, check online for the full schedule.
> www.heyrobics.com, [email protected]
California Fitness Beijing Club
California Fitness Beijing’s Group X program
is among the best in the region, and with
membership you have access to over 150
weekly Group X classes and a team of
professional personal trainers in Asia. Your
membership also includes free towel usage
and a fitness assessment.
>South Tower, L4, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District
4008-100-988 www,californiafitness.com
Beijing United Family Hospital and Clinics 北京和睦家医院
Awarded best expat salon in 2014, with a
trained team of international and local
stylists, colorists and beauticians, this salon
welcomes all ages and budgets in a
modern and relaxed atmosphere for a wide
range of hair and beauty treatments,
including manicures, pedicures & waxing.
Wella, SP, INOA, TIGI.
EAST AVENUE BLD Ground Floor, No.10 Xindong Lu,
Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路10号逸盛阁首层
Salon: 0086 10 84425120, Mobile: 0086 13521473492
E-mail: [email protected]
Wechat: CDFSalon; Web: www.catherinedefrance.com
Laurent Falcon
Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅
Cycle China provides organized cycling and
hiking tours in and aroundBeijing as well
as longer tours throughout China. Some
of their more popular tours take cyclists
through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen
Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs.
>12 Jingshan East Street, Dongcheng District 东城区
景山东街12号 (6402 5653 Mobile: 13911886524, [email protected] or [email protected])
Hongkong International Medical Clinic,
Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所
Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Macau
Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie朝阳门
北大街2号港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9层; 6553-9752,
6553-2288/2345/6/7; [email protected]; www.
hkclinic.com
DENTAL
Arrail Dental
Affiliated with the University of Pennsylvania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class
equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple
locations across town and excellent facilities make it one of the best dental providers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental
services including examinations, whitening,
root-canal treatment, orthodontics and
implants.
> 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu,
Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open
24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm.> 2 Jiangtai Road,
Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. Tel: (10) 5927
7000 / 5927 7120(Emergency Hotline). United
Family CBD Clinic和睦家朝外诊所, Mon-Sat, 9:30am6:30pm.> Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6
Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区朝阳门外
大街6号万通中心AB座2层3017室. Tel: (10) 5907 1266.
Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center和睦家建国
门保健中心, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm>21
Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The St. Regis Residence, St.
Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大街21号北京国际俱乐部
饭店. Tel: (10) 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 (Immigration
Clinic ). Shunyi Clinic和睦家顺义诊所Wi-fi internet,
Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9:30am4:30pm.> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real
Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区天
竺开发区荣祥广场806号,Tel: (10) 8046 5432. Shunyi
Dental Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sat,
9:30am-7:30pm> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 818, Tian Zhu
Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District顺义
区天竺开发区荣祥广场818号. Tel: (10) 8046 1102.
Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri,
8:30am-5pm>2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang
East Road朝阳区东方东路19号1号楼会所27号外交人
员公寓B区官舍16号 . Tel: (10) 5927 7005 www.ufh.
com.cn, [email protected]
The salon is a cut above, thanks to skills of
experienced French stylist Laurent Falcon.
Guys/girls. Blow-dry, up-dos, highlights,
coloring available. L’Oreal, Schwarzkopf,
KeraSraight, Inoa. RMB165-980 women,
RMB115-468 men.
3L209 Phase 3, The China World Trade Center Shopping Mall. 国贸商城三期二层3L209 (59000676,153
1311 1519). 43 Sanlitun Beijie Nan,Chaoyang.三里屯
International SOS
Since 1989, International SOS has been run
by globally trained medical professionals
and provides medical, security and travel
advice, as well as emergency help 24/7. Its
alarm centers operate house calls, ambulance and evacuation services, and standard
health treatments. Languages spoken
include English, German, French, Mandarin,
l istin g s
Spanish, Japanese, Italian and Cantonese.
> Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16
Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号琨莎
中心1座105室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos.com)
ParkwayHealth Vantone Medical and
Rehabilitation Center
Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm. CBD>1-2/F, Vantone Center, 6
Chaowai Street朝阳门外大街甲六号万通中心AB座一
二层; (4000-662-882(24hrs); enquiry@parkwayhealth.
cn; www.parkwayhealth.cn
Vista Medical Center 维世达诊所
24hours. Wi-Fi internet. 3/F Kerry Center. 1 Guanghua
Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心商场3层 Tel: 8529-6618. Email:
[email protected]. Website: www.vista-china.net
OASIS International Hospital
OASIS International Hospital specializes in
serving the expatriate community with the
latest world-class technology and a broad
range of services, all in a pristine facility designed to provide patients with the utmost
comfort, care and privacy.
program offers world class executive and
leadership education from some of the best
professors the world has to offer. Every
month one of the professors from the
University of Maryland comes to Beijing
to instruct the class for 4 consecutive
days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18
months; the impact lasts a lifetime.
Email: [email protected]
Tel: 8526 2528/29
Rutgers International Executive MBA
> 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang
District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 (5877
1706, www.rutgersinasia.com)
Mandarin Schools
The Frontiers School
SPA & MASSAGE
> Landgent city mall, Shuangjing bridge east north,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北侧乐成中心 (137
1790 8546 / 188 1170 6650)
Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat
Created as a contemporary urban retreat,
Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tranquility in the midst of the hectic city.
> Daily, 10am-late. 1)60 Donghuamen Dajie (near
The Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza) Dongcheng
District东城区东华门大街60号(近王府饭店和东方广
场) (6527 9368, www.dragonfly.net.cn); 2) 1/F Eastern
Inn, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南三
里屯路逸羽酒店一层 (6593 6066); 3) Grand Summit
Plaza, 19 Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa
Center), Chaoyang District朝阳区燕莎桥东方东路19号
外交会所1层(燕莎中心路北100米) (8532 3122)
Angel Hands Massage Center
Join the friendly and professional team at
Frontiers, who’ve been teaching Mandarin
for 11 years.
> 3/F, Bldg 30, Dongzhongjie, Dongzhimenwai,
Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街30号三层 6413
1547, www.frontiers.com.cn, frontiers@frontiers.
com.cn)
Beijing Mandarin Language School
Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin
School is the city’s top institute for teaching
spoken and written Mandarin as a second
language. More than 5,000 students
from over 66 countries and more than 80
companies and embassies have successfully
learned with us each year.
> Guangming Hotel School: Room 0709, 7/F
Guangming Hotel (near the U.S Embassy) 朝阳区
光明饭店7层0709 (8441 8391; [email protected]; www.beijingmandarinschool.com;
Skype: beijingmandarinschool1998)
Beijing Juncheng Language School
北京君诚语言学校
> 1) Room 208, 1 Panjiapo Hutong, Chaoyangmenwai,
Dongcheng District 东城区朝阳门外潘家坡胡同1号
东城区职工大学208办室 (6525 9932/6526 7539) 2)
Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town,
Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号
(8049 0307)
The Bridge School
北京桥汉语言学校
> (The Bridge School Head office)Room 503, 5/F,
Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室
(15321793321 Grettchin)
Let us release your stress and make you
smile wherever you go... Aroma Soothes
Therapy Massage, Rose Oil (RMB 280/min);
Aroma Relaxation Massage; Aroma Lomi
Lomi; Deep Relaxation Massage; Happy
Hour at weekend, all services are 20% off.
Our masseuses will know how to pamper
you and attend to your every need.
> Room 1801, Building 2, JianwaiSOHO, CBDGuomao,
Chaoyang 朝阳区国贸建外SOHO2号楼1801 (138
1182 1008)
Oriental Taipan Massage & Spa
Since 2002, Oriental Taipan has been pampering Beijing’s finest in their small chain
of contemporary spas. Calming flower
aromas, Zen music, and trickling feng shui
fountains create a soothing atmosphere in
each of their locations, while a long list of
treatments from around the world cater to
all pampering needs.
> Daily, 12am-midnight. Sunjoy Mansion, 6 Ritan Lu,
Chaoyang District朝阳区日坛路6号 (400 001 0202,
www.taipan.com.cn)
EDUCATION
MBA & EMBA Schools
BBA at BFSU-SolBridge
北京外国语大学国际商学院
> 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District, 海淀区西三
环北路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881
6763/8881 8537)
LEMBA
The Leadership EMBA from the University
of Maryland
Robert H. Smith School of Business is a
unique learning experience in Beijing. The
>15 Liyuan Jie, Tianzhu Town, Shunyi District
顺义区天竺镇丽苑街15号(8416 7718 www.bjrego.org)
Beijing World Youth Academy
北京世青国际学校
Beijing World Youth Academy (BWYA) is an
international school for students of all nationalities ages 6 to 18, offering programs
on its campuses conveniently located in
Wangjing and Lido. An IB World School
since 2001, BWYA values holistic education
and seeks to give students ample opportunity to develop as globally-aware critical
thinkers. A wide varity of co-curricular
activities are offered to further enrich
student life. Graduates of BWYA have been
accepted at prestigious universities around
the world. Age range: 6-18. Tuition: RMB
100,000- 140,000/year.
> 10 Lai Guang Ying Dong Lu, Chao Yang District
朝阳区来广营东路10号(5986 5588)
Yew Chung International School
耀中国际学校
> Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731
www.ycis-bj.com)
Kindergartens
> Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm. 18 Huajiadi Beili, Wangjing,
Chaoyang District Inside 94 Middle school 北京市
朝阳区望京花家地北里18号(6461 7787 ext.32, 8454
3478/0649, [email protected], www.ibwya.net)
> Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am-12.30pm;
24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao Beilu
Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876
2747, 5985-0333, www.oasishealth.cn)
Happy Time Massage Center
Pretty girl quality provide professional massage relax massage, oil massage 300/60
mins, full body tantric massage 500/60
mins.
The Western Academy of Beijing (WAB) is
a creative and innovative IB World School
built upon a solid foundation of core
values and our mission to Connect, Inspire,
Challenge; Make a Difference. Our students
exemplify these values through their awareness of the world around them, service to
others, can-do spirit and commitment to
excellence. WAB graduates are accepted
into world-class colleges and universities
across the globe.
Beijing Rego British School
北京瑞金英国学校
International Schools
Beijing BISS International School
北京BISS国际学校
> Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District
朝阳区安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss.
com.cn)
Beijing City International School
北京乐成国际学校
Located in Beijing’s Central Business
District, Beijing City International School
(BCIS) lives by its motto: “Empowering
and Inspiring through Challenge and
Compassion.” This non-profit, independent
co-educational day school offers an international curriculum under the International
Baccalaureate (IB) World School system and
is authorized to teach all three IB programs
(Primary Years, Middle Years, and Diploma
Programme).
> 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区百
子湾南二路77号 (8771 7171 www.bcis.cn)
The International Montessori School of
Beijing 北京蒙台梭利国际学校
Founded in 1990, MSB is Beijing’s first fully
registered international Montessori school.
The school also boasts an unsurpassed dual
Mandarin/English program geared towards
helping students achieve fluency in either
language from an early age. Curriculum
aside, MSB boasts spacious classrooms, a
high teacher-student ratio and impressive staff longevity. Tuition: RMB98,000
- RMB177,000/year.
> Bldg 8, 2A, Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区香江北路甲2号院8号楼 6432 8228 ext. 800,
http:>www.msb.edu.cn, [email protected]
Beanstalk International Bilingual School
青苗国际双语学校
> 1) Kindergarten > 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466
9255) 2) Primary School > Block 2, Upper East Side,
6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环
北路6号阳光上东二区 (5130 7951) 3) Middle & High
School > 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南十
里居38号 (8456 6019)
The British School of Beijing 北京英国
学校
The British School of Beijing, established in
2003, has campuses in Shunyi (primary &
secondary) and Sanlitun (primary). BSB offers an enhanced English National Curriculum to 1,500 expatriate students, aged 1 to
18, beginning with Early Years Foundation
Stage, Primary, Secondary, IGCSE exams in
Year 10 and 11 and the International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma programme in Year
12 and 13. Admission & Fees: RMB102,993246,057. Contact our Admissions team to
arrange a school tour.
La Maison Montessori de Pekin
北京中法双语蒙氏儿童之家
The first bilingual French-Chinese Montessori kindergarten in Beijing, it welcomes
children between ages 2 to 6 years old.
The kindergarten is located in a beautiful
courtyard in the hutongs. Schedule: Monday to Friday: 8:30am to 3:30pm. After class
activities also offered.
> Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm, South Side, 9 An Hua Street,
Shunyi District 顺义区安华街9号南侧(8047 3558,
www.britishschool.org.cn, admissions@britishschool.
org.cn)
> 50 Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng
东城区东四十四条50号
Tel: 131 2025 0341/ 8401 3974;
e-mail: [email protected]
www.lamaisonmontessoridepk.com
Canadian International School of Beijing
北京加拿大国际学校
Located in the Third Embassy Quarter of
downtown Beijing, the Canadian International School of Beijing (CISB) opened its
doors in September 2006. This world-class
facility offers an internationally recognized
Canadian & IB PYP, IB MYP and IBDP education. The Canadian International School
of Beijing develops the whole child in an
environmentally sensitive school within a
kind, caring community to become a citizen
of the world.
House of Knowledge International Kindergarten (HOK)
House of Knowledge International kindergarten (HOK) has locations in both Shunyi
and Chaoyang. Both locations offer a
Kindergarten program for children aged 10
months to 6 years (Pre-school). Students
are treated as competent learners and the
school emphasizes critical thinking and collaboration skills, in an environment where
children “Lean to Learn”. In additional,
the Shunyi location also has a elementary
school starting from grade 1 in September
2014.
> 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥
路38号 (6465 7788 www.cisb.com.cn)
Dulwich College Beijing
北京德威英国国际学校
1) Legend Garden Campus: 89 Jichang Lu, Shunyi
District 首都机场路89号丽京花园 (6454 9000; www.
dulwich-beijing.cn); 2) Beijing Riviera Campus: 1
Xiangjiang Beilu, Jingshun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区京顺路香江北路1号香江花园 (8450 7676); 3)
River Garden Campus: River Garden Villas, Houshayu
Baixinzhuang, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪白辛庄裕
京花园别墅 8046 5132
EtonKids International Kindergarten
伊顿国际幼儿园
Harrow International School Beijing
北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn
Harrow International School Beijing prides
itself on its high academic standards, a
close-knit school community, a rich extracurricular activity program and the quality
of its pastoral care provision. Leadership
skills are promoted school-wide, with a
range of enrichment activities to help
students develop teamwork and creative
thinking skills, as well as independence and
responsibility. Students graduating from
Harrow Beijing have won places at a range
of universities across the world including
Princeton, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge.
> Address: 287, Hegezhuang, Cuigezhuang County,
Chaoyang District
朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村 287 号 Tel: +8610
6444 8900 Ext. 6900 Fax: +8610 6445 3870
International School of Beijing
北京顺义国际学校
> www.isb.bj.edu.cn 10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 顺
义区安华路10号 (8149 2345)
SIBS Springboard International Blingual
School 君城国际双语学院
Springboard International Bilingual School
is a place where children, staff and parents
work in partnership to enable all their
students to realize their full potential. They
are offering a stimulating and full international curriculum as well as an exciting
after school program, which will include
Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and
football.
> 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town,
Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号
(www.sibs.com.cn, [email protected]; 8049 2450)
> 1) Quanfa Gardens Campus: North gate of Quanfa
compound, 15 Maquanying, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区马泉营15号泉发花园北门(6431 8452, www.
hokschools.com) 2) Victoria Gardens Campus: 15
Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区朝阳公园西路15号维多利亚花园公寓(6538 2624,
www.hokschools.com)
1) Lido – 6436 7368 www.etonkids.com > Room C103
Lido Country Club, Lido Place Jichang Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场 2) 6506 4805
3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion Guanghua Lu,
Chaoyang District
朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层 3) 8437 1006
Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Kehui Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交汇处
西南角 4) 8480 5538 Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District,
Beijing 朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区 5) 6533 6995 Bldg
19, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District
朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼 6) 6539 8967
Palm Springs International Apartments 8 Chaoyang
Park Nanlu Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路
8号棕榈泉国际公寓 7) 6749 5008 Bldg 21, Guangqu
Jiayuan, Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng District 东
城区广渠门外广渠家园21号楼 8) 8478 0578 Baoxing
International Phase 2, Wangjing Chaoyang District
朝阳区望京宝星园国际社区2期 9) 8047 2983 Block 1,
Arcadia Villas, Houshayu Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪
罗马环岛北侧天北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座 10) 5870 6779
20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大望路
甲20号首府社区内
Ivy Schools 艾毅幼儿园
www.ivyschools.com 1) East Lake Campus (8451
1380/1) C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai
Main Street, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街35号东
湖别墅C座101室; 2) Ivy Bilingual School 艾毅双语幼儿
园 Ocean Express Campus: (8446 7286/7) Building E,
Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝
阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干线E座 3) Orchid Garden
Campus: (8439 7080) Orchid Garden, 18 Xinjin Lu,
Cuige Xiang, Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各乡新锦路18号
卓锦万代 4) Wangjing Campus: (5738 9166/1332
110 6167) Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, Wangjing,
Chaoyang 朝阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内
7) Rm106, warehouse4, 653 Waima Lu, by Wangjia
Matou Lu (3376 8308) 外马路653号4库106室, 近王
家码头路
3e International 北京3e国际学校
6437 3344
www.3eik.com, 9-1 Jiangtai Xilu Chaoyang 朝阳区将
台西路9-1号(四德公园旁)
Western Academy of Beijing
京西国际学校
classifieds
Accommodation
Ascott China
Enjoy our hot offer this summer with 20%
savings on Best Available Rates in Ascott
Beijing, Ascott Raffles City Beijing, Somerset
ZhongGuanCun Beijing from now to 30
September 2013. Take your pick from these
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welcome in Beijing this summer. Now is
the time to choose your favorite service
apartments, open your summer tour!
www.ascottchina.com
Ascott Beijing
> No.108B Jian Guo Road, Chaoyang District
Tel: 6567 8100
Ascott Raffles City Beijing
Located in Dongzhimen, one of the most
vibrant areas, Ascott Raffles City is near the
second embassy district, which is rich in
cultural heritage and is only a 15 minute
drive to The Forbidden City.
Other nearby leisure attractions include
Food Street (Gui Jie) and Sanlitun nightlife
district.
> No.1-2 Dongzhimen South Street
Dongcheng District
Tel: 8405 3888
Ascott Raffles City Chengdu
> No. 3, Section 4, South Renmin Road,
Wuhou District, Chengdu 610041, China
Post code: 610041
Telephone:(86-28) 6268 2888
Facsimile:(86-28) 6268 2889
GDS Code: AZ
Reservations Telephone:400 820 1028
(China toll-free) ;(86-512) 6763 1021
Email:[email protected]
Lusongyuan Hotel
A traditional compound of quadrangle
composing of 5 courtyards which lies in
the "hutong" area of Beijing. The hotel
building is famous for its imperial living
taste of the Qing Dynasty with a history of
nearly 170 years. The original owner of this
large private house was the Grand General
SenggeRinchen, who lived here while he
carried out top official duties, such as
defense minister.
> Tel: (86 10) 6404 0436
Fax: (86 10) 6403 0418
Address:
No.22 Banchang Lane , Kuanjie, Dongcheng
District
东城区宽街板厂胡同22号
www.the-silk-road.com
Lee Garden Service Apartments
A newly renovated high-end premier living
residence in a central location next to the
shopping and cultural sites of Beijing’s
Wangfujing, suites range from studios to
4-bedroom apartments (60-610sqm in size)
and are tastefully furnished with specially
selected materials.
> 18 Jinyu Hutong, Wangfujing, Dongcheng
(100m East of Sun Dong An Plaza) 东城区
王府井金鱼胡同18号 (新东安东侧100米);
24hr front desk: 6525 8855, Fax: 6525 8080,
[email protected], www.
lgapartment.com)
Somerset Grand Fortune Garden Beijing
Enjoy gracious living at Somerset Grand
Fortune Garden in the prime Chaoyang
District, where the business district,
embassies and international schools are
within close proximity.
Unwind with a medley of recreational
facilities and the convenience of a retail
mall at your doorstep.
> No.46 Liangmaqiao Road, Chaoyang
District Tel: 8451 8888
FraserResidence CBD East Beijing
Our location on the Fringe of the CBD with
excellent connections to the subway line
1 (Sihui station), BRT Lines (Ciyunsi) and
public bus system mean that wherever your
intern needs to be in the city, getting there
is relatively fuss free!
One bedroom deluxe: RMB16,000 /month
Two bedroom Executive: RMB26,000 /
month
Three bedroom Deluxe: RMB33,000 /month
Email: sales.frbeijing@frasershospitality.
com
> Website: http:>beijing-east
frasershospitality.com
Tel: 010-58709188 / 400-881-6988
FraserSuite CBD Beijing
The ultimate luxury in apartment living,
Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style
and comfort, that surpasses the service
level of many Beijing hotels. The 357
Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features
contemporary concepts designed for luxury
living.
> 12 Jintong Xilu Chaoyang District Beijing
Tel: 5908 6000
GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING
One of the top residences in Beijing, GTC
Residence is located beside the third ring
road with 5 minutes’ walk to subway line
5 , 10 minutes’ drive to Hou Hai . It is
also within easily reach of CBD, embassy
area, Financial Street and other urban
commercial,shopping and recreation areas.
Fully equipped apartments with impeccable
quality offer you a cozy living system and
will meet all of your requirements for room
decoration, furniture, electric appliances
etc..
Unique sky garden with golf practice field
and barbecue area is another symbol of
GTC Residence.
> E-mail: [email protected]
website: www.gtcresidence.com
Tel:56756666
Lanson Place
Lanson Place Central Park Serviced
Residences, located in the Central Business
District of Chaoyang, offers spacious
apartments in two, three and four bedroom
configurations as well as penthouses
overlooking a charming landscaped garden.
The interiors are contemporary and restful
while marble-clad bathrooms and kitchens
are fully equipped.
> Website: www.lansonplace.com
Lanson Place Central Park Residences
Tower 23, Central Park, No.6
Chaoyangmenwai Avenue,Chaoyang
District, Beijing
Tel: 8588 9588 Fax: 8588 9549
Marriott Executive Apartments
Ideally located in the center of Wangfujing
area where the prestigious business,
commercial, entertainment, and shopping
center of Beijing. The Imperial Mansion,
Beijing – Marriott Executive Apartments
reflects an exceptional level of luxury.
> Gate, No. 1 Xiagongfu Street, Dongcheng
District
Tel: 6564 9999
The Millennium Residences of the Beijing
Fortune Plaza
The Millennium Residences of the Beijing
Fortune Plaza is located in the heart of
the Beijing CBD which bears the most
momentously potential of development
and value elevation. While 25 minutes away
from the Beijing International Airport, the
Millennium Residences is walking distance
from nearly all Embassies.
> 7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu Chaoyang
District.
Tel: 8588 2888
Oakwood Residence Beijing
Oakwood Residence Beijing offers 406
fully equipped luxury apartments ranging
from studios to four bedroom penthouse
and terrace apartments, all exquisitely
furnished in elegant and stylish decor. Each
apartment is fitted with a state-of-the-art
air purification and air conditioning system
which ensures 99.9% pure, triple filtered air,
so you can trust in Oakwood and breathe
easy.
> No. 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang
District, Beijing 100027, China
[email protected]
Website: www.oakwoodasia.com/resbeijing
Tel: 5995 2888 Fax: 5995 2999
THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES
The Westin Executive Residences at The
Beijing Financial Street offer an array of
world-class cuisine options and Westin’s
signature amenities designed to elicit
personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the
airport, the Westin Executive Residences
provides direct access to Beijing’s business,
entertainment and shopping district and
close proximity to cultural landmarks such
as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen
Square. Each apartment is also fitted with
contemporary furnishings, fully equipped
kitchens, state-of-the-art appliances, home
entertainment system and LCD flat screen
televisions.
> Email: [email protected]
Website: www.westin.com/beijingfinancial
Tel: 6606 8866
Beauty Services
Black Golden Tanning Salon Sanlitun
Branch Grand Opening
Black Golden Tanning Salon is the only fivestar China flagship store by Ergoline. As
the 2011 model of Ergoline Esprit 770’s,
to bring a continuous tanning effect 25%
above standard machines with unique
aquacool and aroma functions, we provide
customers with the safest and most
comfortable tanning space.
> Open time:11:00-21:00
Sanlitun SOHO Branch
Add: 2rd Floor Building 3, Sanlitun
SOHO,Chaoyang District
Tel: 57853711
Wangjing Branch
Add: Room T5 3rd Floor, BOTAI International
Building, No. 36 North Guangshun Street,
Wangjing, Chaoyang District
Website: www.bjtanning.com
Tel: 84722855
LA BELLEZA
La Belleza means Beauty and Aesthetics in
Spanish. Professional hair-designers from
Hong Kong ,Korea and China gather here.
LA BELLEZA is the hairdressing salon for
you with its pleasant atmosphere, excellent
service, and finest products.
New haircut! Good mood! Excellent life!
Add: F4 No.408, Jinbao Place .Jinbao Street
No88,Dongcheng District, Beijing, china.
Website: www.labelleza.com.cn
Tel: 010 8522 1626
MegaSun Tanning Salon
As the only flagship store for this popular
German tanning salon, megaSun Tanning
will provide for each client the finest sun
tanning experience.
Our center has prepared the newest
functional 7900 alpha and pureEnergy
chamber systems, combined with easyCare
optical testers. At megaSun, enjoy our
professional UV and tanning services.
> 8 Dongdaqiao Road, sShangdu SOHO
North Tower, Rm. 2302
Website: www.imegasun.com
e-mail: [email protected]
Sina Weibo: @麦肤堂
Tel: 5900-2236/2238
BUSINESS CENTER
Servcorp
Smart businesses understand that flexibility
is the future of the workplace. They choose
the world's finest Serviced Offices to grow
their businesses, run critical projects and
give their people flexibility.
> Level 26 Fortune Financial Center, 5
Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区
东三环中路5号财富金融中心26层 (Servcorp.
com.cn; tel: 5775 0310; fax: 5775 0350)
Regus Serviced
Office
• FLEXIBLE OFFICE LEASES FROM 1 DAY TO 1
YEAR
• QUICK AND EASY TO SET UP FOR 1-200
PEOPLE
• PRICES FROM RMB 180 PER MONTH
• FIND MORE ON REGUS.CN
REGUS BEIJING (14 LOCATIONS)
Regus Beijing Taikang Financial Tower
泰康金融大厦 [NEW]
23/F, No.38 East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang
District
Regus Beijing China Life Tower
中国人寿大厦中心
5/F, No. 16, Chaoyangmenwai Ave.,
Chaoyang Distric
Regus Beijing China World Tower 3
国贸三期
15/F, No.1 Jianguomenwai Avenue,
Chaoyang District
Regus Beijing Financial Street Excel Centre
金融街卓著中心
12/F, No.6 Wudinghou Street, Xicheng
District
Regus Beijing IFC 财源国际中心
10/F IFC East Tower, No.8 Jianguomenwai
Avenue, Chaoyang District
Regus Beijing Kerry Centre 嘉里中心
11/F, Beijing Kerry Centre North Tower,
No.1Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District
Regus Beijing Lufthansa Center 燕莎中心
C203, No.50 Liangmaqiao Road, Chaoyang
District
Regus Beijing NCI Centre新华保险大厦中心
15/F, No.12A Jianguomenwai Ave.,
Chaoyang District
Regus Beijing Pacific Century Place
盈科中心
14/F, No.2A Workers Stadium Road North,
Chaoyang District
Regus Beijing Prosper Center
世纪财富中心
6/F Tower 2, No.5 Guanghua Road,
Chaoyang District
Regus Beijing Zhongguancun Metropolis
Tower 中关村欧美汇大厦
7/F, No.2 Dongsan Street Zhongguancun Xi
Zone, Haidian District
Regus Beijing China Central Place
华贸中心
9/F Tower 2, No.79 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang
District
Regus Beijing Parkview Green
侨福芳草地中心
15/F Office Building A, No.9 Dongdaqiao
Road, Chaoyang District
c l as sifieds
Regus Beijing China Life – West
中国人寿大厦-西
West, 5/F, No.16 Chao Wai Street, Chaoyang
District
CSO (Singapore) Beijing Business Center
We have 10 years experience in
managing serviced offices in the Asia
and Pacific region, and our headquarters
is in Singapore. CSO Beijing is our first
business center in China . We are mainly
providing fully renovated and equipped
offices to clients for immediate use, and
all the serviced offices can be used as
incorporation purpose, and we offer
maximum flexibility and complete smart
office system to help our clients save
cost. We also provide virtual offices,
meeting room and conference room, video
conferencing, incorporation services and
many other services.
Add.: Level 6, Sun Palace Building,
Taiyanggong, Beijing
Ms. Stephanie Yan, Mobile: 18210080591
Website: www.csochina.cn
Tel: 86 10 64697000
Catering Services
Aurora Catering
An 100% authentic Italian experience
whether tasting a mouthful Lasagna or a
juicy Carpaccio. Our international team
brings to you the authentic freshness and
tidbit of an Italian Espresso or a homemade
tastiness of a Mozzarella.
We offer a full range of catering and event
planning services for all types of business
and personal functions that are tailored for
you. The best service, at your service.
Contact Jacopo Tomé at 137 1794 0458
[email protected]
Zone de Comfort
With our professional service, you can
focus 100% on your event at Zone de
Comfort, every single assignment is unique
for us. Our experience helps us understand
your objectives with thorough planning,
and of course, exquisite food with elegant
presentation.
In the past 5 years, we have handled
numerous catering projects covering
diplomatic/business functions for
embassies, high-end cocktail receptions for
luxuries brands, automobiles and monthlong hospitality center services. Find out
more from our Website: www.zdc-catering.
com
CABLE SERVICES
Super IPTV
Super IPTV offers 130+ English TV Channels
in HD quality, These TV channels are
delivered into your televsion throuth a set
top box via a broadband connection, Much
like cable services back home, pick up the
remote control and start watching, it's one
of the best ways to get your favorite
channels including
HBO,CNN,BBC,FOX,AXN,Star World,F1,EPL,S
ETANTA,ESPN,Discovery,Nat Geo...
Website: www.beijingiptv.com
Shopping: www.shop.superiptv.com
Forum: www.forum.superiptv.com
Mobile: 133 716 00100 or 139 1188 5499.
CAR RENTAL SERVICE
Beijing Top Rate Car Rental Service Co., Ltd
*Long/Short term leasing
*Daily car service
*Sifht-seeing car service, Tailor-made car
service
*Airport-Pick up/Drop off
*Sedan (Audi A6, Audi A6L, VWPassat,
Accord, Lacross 2.4, Benz MB100, Benz Vito,
Hyundai) and Buses
*Native drivers with good English
*More information please contact
Tel:6504 7266/6504 7256
FAx:6504 7256
www.sxsdcar.com
Email:[email protected]
CONSULTING SERVICE
Harris Corporate Services Ltd
Beijing | Shanghai | Guangzhou | Hong
Kong
Established since 1972
WFOE & Rep. Office Set Up
Accounting & Tax Compliance
Payroll, HR & Visa Solutions
Hong Kong & Offshore Company
Registration
Hong Kong & China Bank Account Opening
Serving all your business needs for investing
in China. Call us for a free consultation.
Tel: (86)10-6591 8087
Mobile: 186-019-43718
Beijing:
Room 2302, E-Tower, No.12 Guanghua
Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing, PRC.
北京市朝阳区光华路12号数码01大厦2302
室
Shanghai:
Suite 904, OOCL Plaza, 841 Yan An Zhong
Road, Jing-An District, Shanghai, PRC.
上海市静安区延安中路841号东方海外大厦
904室
Guangzhou:
Room D-E, 11/F., Yueyun Building, 3
Zhongshan 2nd Road, Guangzhou, PRC.
广州市中山二路3号(东山口)粤运大厦11楼
D-E室
Hong Kong:
7/F., Hong Kong Trade Centre, 161-167 Des
Voeux Road Central, Hong Kong.
香港德辅道中161-167号香港贸易中心7楼
Legalmall.net
Are you a foreign company wanting to
obtain reliable information about your
Chinese partner? LegalMall is a leading
Company Search service provider made for
you! Basic and Comprehensive Company
Search reports, free legal counselling,
Sourcing Bundle and much more at a very
competitive price.
www.legalmall.net
Beijing Office-TMF Group
In order to enable clients benefit from
the increasing globalization of the
worlds economy, TMF Group offers
a comprehensive range of corporate
administrative outsourcing services in 67
counties across the globe. With a genuine
global network and qualified staff, TMF
group provides an array of accounting,
corporate secretarial and HR administrative
outsourcing services.
> [email protected]
Website: www.tmf-group.com
CCTV Tower and Kerry Centre
Suite 3107, Tower A Beijing Fortune Plaza,7
Dongsanhuan Zhong Road, Chaoyang
District
Tel: 65330533-860
FURNITURE
Crossover
Crossover Center Flagship Store, is mainly
marketing international super home
furnishing brand products.
Our agent brands include Poltrona Frau,
Cassina, Fritz Hansen, Moroso, Cappellini,
Timothy Oulton, Tom Dixon etc, over
20 international super home furnishing
brands.
Our products are covered with all of fields
in daily-life home furnishing, including
furniture, furnishing, lighting, dinning, and
office supplies etc.
TUI China
An affiliate of World of TUI, the world’s
leading tourism group, TUI China was
established in late 2003 as the first joint
venture with foreign majority share in the
Chinese tourism industry. Its headquarters
are in Beijing whilst its operations reach
deep into the far corners of China. World of
TUI generated approx.50,000 predominantly
western tourists to China yearly and
provides M.I.C.E services for renowned
companies worldwide.
> Add: Bright China Chang An Building,
Tower 2, Unit 921-926, 7 Jianguomen Nei
Avenue (Fax: +86 (0)10 6517 1371; Email:
[email protected]; Website: www.tui.cn; Tel:
8519 8800
Website: www.crossovercenter.com
NO.81 North Road San-Li-Tun Bar St. ChaoYang District.Beijing.100027,P.R.C.
Tel: 5208 6112/6113 Fax: 8610-5208 6123
HOUSEKEEPING
JNY Home Service
JNY Home Service was established in
2007, supplying foreign families with
English speaking/non-English Speaking
nannies(maids), either daily or live-in.
As a part of our service,we make sure all
references and ID cards are thoroughly
checked to guarantee the safety and health
of your family.
Email : [email protected]
Mobile: 13426362833(24h)
Beijing EX-PATS Service
Healty, reliable, experienced, Englishspeaking housemaid/ nanny. Free agency
and 24- hour English service. Medical
and Accident insurrance covered. EXPATS
Life Group also serves with Mandarin, car
leasing, English-speaking driver, Chinese
driving license, vehicle registration.
[email protected]
Website: www.expatslife.com
Tel: 64381634
Mobile: 13501237292
Real Estate Agents
MOVING & SHIPPING
Seven Seas Worldwide
Save up to 50%! We’re the first choice when
it comes to moving baggage internationally
from one box up to 2M3. We offer a global,
door-to-door service with prices starting
from RMB 999 by sea and RMB 1580 by air.
Call 400 181 6698 now for an instant
quote or book online at www.
sevenseasworldwide.com
Storage
China Self Storage Co. Ltd
As a member of SSA and SSAUK, China Self
Storage Co. Ltd. introduces an international
industry standard to professionally
developed Self Storage for private, family
and business. Safe, clean, air-conditioned,
24h access, flexible size. To learn more, visit
www.selfstorageinchina.com. To make a
reservation, contact 400-600-6378 info@
selfstorageinchina.com.
Jin’an Building, Tianzhu Garden West Rd.,
Shunyi District, Beijing.
JOANNA REAL ESTATE RELOCATION
SERVICE
We are one of China’s leading real estate
agencies boasting an extensive database
of high-end properties for rent. We have
helped thousands of expatriates find their
homes as well as hundreds of companies
re-locate their employees. Once we have
found you your ideal home we will be on
hand to deal with any post move issues
and our dedicated after sales team will be
contactable 7 days a week to help you with
any queries you have throughout your stay
in our country.
> For more information please contact us:
Website: http:>beijing.joannarealestate.
com.cn/ (Tel: 84585667 ; 13501358971)
Replus-Benchmark
“Replus-Benchmark” is one of the leading
real estate agencies and relocation service
provider for expatriates in Shanghai,
Beijing, Guangzhou, Chengdu and
Shenzhen.
• Residential Home Search Service
• Visa Application
• Commercial Office Space Search Service
• Buying and Selling Property Service
Website: www.replus-benchmark.com
> A-1509,Xiaoyun Center, No.15 of Xiaoyun
Road, Chaoyang District Beijing
Tel: 84467119 Fax: 84467577
Koala Ministorage
Koala Ministorage is the first professional
self-storage provider in Beijing. To learn
more, visit our website www.koalaministorage.com. To make a reservation, call us
toll free at 400-017-8889, email us at
[email protected], or visit
one of our stores.
TRAVEL SERVICES
Beijing Trans-World Air Service Co.Ltd.
Established in February 2005 and approved
by the Civil Aviation Administration
of China, we are an aggregator of
international and domestic air, global
hotel reservations and big business travel.
With sales rankings in the top ten and
having earned the title of major proxies
of worldwide airlines, we are well-known
for our top-notch service. We offer online
booking, hotel inquiry and reservations and
a varity of travel-related services.
> G8, First Floor, China Resources Building,
8 Jianguomenbei Avenue, Chaoyang
朝阳区建国门北大街8号华润大厦一层G8
tel: 8519 2468/2469/2470/2471/2472;
fax: 6518 2589; [email protected];
www.viptkt.com; WeChat: twas08314854
Silk Road Travel Management Ltd.
Silk Road Travel is a pioneer in organizing
Silk Road tours and other classic routes in
China. Founded in 1997, we are specialized
in tailor making travel packages that
allow travellers to truly experience the
local cultures and explore the amazing
heritages. Whether you are a small group
of 2-9 persons or a corporate group, our
professional staff will tailor make the tour
programme based on your needs.
www.the-silk-road.com
Businesses!
Promote your
services to
thousands of
people each
month on our
classifieds
pages. For more
details and
special packages
please e-mail
bjadvertising@
urbanatomy.com
sports | f o o t b a l l
Derby day
Why local rivalries make football what it is
by Ia n Wa l k e r
“You wish that the violent behavior could be
controlled but it’s part and parcel of the
tribalism of football...”
On the morning of an important football
match, coaches always tell players to relax
but stay focused. Sounds easy enough, but
when it’s derby day – two fierce local rivals
going head to head – it’s a whole different
story.
Walking into a packed derby day stadium in Shanghai last month, I could tell
the atmosphere was special. The turnout
was huge. I don’t think the Shenhua fans
thought that Dongya would bring so many,
but the rivalry is real now – even in the
last year I can see it’s grown considerably.
The tension had been building all week
and everybody had been talking about it.
Weibo posts uploaded by Shenhua fans had
gone viral online, with their Colombian
Captain Giovanni Moreno standing over
our Chinese international Wu Lei (above,
right, gun meaning ‘get lost!’).
Word had reached us that violence
had flared up outside the stadium. It was
surprising; you don’t normally see crowd
violence at Chinese games. As a player it
only adds to the pressure, knowing that
the fans invest so much emotion on an
outcome that rests on your shoulders.
The Chinese Super League only has a
handful of derby matches, so when they
come around all eyes are on them. The two
Guangzhou sides, Evergrande and R&F,
is one fixture, while the rivalry between
neighbors Beijing and Tianjin is so fierce
that often only one set of fans is allowed
in the stadium. But for us, the Shanghai
derby trumps all. My former club Shanghai
Shenhua have always been seen as the big
boys, but with my new club Dongya pushing for an Asian Champions League spot,
we’re now the top dogs in town. While we
needed the three points to push for that
ACL place, Shenhua have had their noses
put out of joint, and this game gave them
the chance to restore some much needed
pride. And I’d know, because in my playing days it was always the derby games we
anticipated. The results would affect our
morale for weeks after.
When I was playing for Tottenham
Hotspur back in England, our twice-yearly
games against Arsenal were the first thing
the fans looked for when the fixture list
was released. (Both teams are in North
London – the two stadiums are only 6
kilometers apart.) It meant so much to the
fans, that they would ‘let you off’ if you finished 15th in the league as long as you beat
Arsenal twice. That was the feeling: “Just
beat Arsenal, just beat Arsenal.” When we
used to play them, you’d see fighting at the
Metro stops from the team bus on the way
to the ground. You wish that the violent
behavior could be controlled but it’s part
and parcel of the tribalism that goes with
football, visible in just about every country’s league.
I didn’t actually play in first big derby I
was a part of; I’d just made the Spurs squad
at 19 years old and was on the bench. It
was the Semi Final of the FA Cup in 1991,
and the first one to be played at Wembley,
the national stadium. About as big as it
gets in club football, between two of the
biggest sides in English football. Winner
makes the FA Cup final – nothing for the
loser. So much at stake. We won 3-1, with
Paul Gascoigne scoring one of the best free
kicks Wembley has ever seen. From the
safety of the bus on the way out of the stadium, you could see our fans were ecstatic.
And you could also see the Arsenal fans
were on the floor. I realized then what a
derby was, and what is on the line.
Back to last month’s game and the
match ended 1-1. Considering the players
are under so much pressure, big derbies
can often end in draws – brave is the team
that takes risks – but this game was a real
cracker. All 22 players gave it everything
they could and the tackles were flying in.
A great advert for the Chinese game, no
doubt about it. All the post-match talk will
be about Wu Lei, our 22-year-old striker at
Dongya. Sadly for him, he missed a penalty, as well as a golden chance near the
end that I swear he could have scored in
his sleep. He’d started the season on fire –
three goals in three games – and despite
an injury setback, he’d been creating goals
for the team all season. But I guess the
pressure of the derby got to him.
Two years ago Dongya were still
playing in the league below the CSL, they
barely registered on Shenhua’s radar. Now
the Dongya versus Shenhua clash is one
of the biggest of the season. I think that
shows what a threat Dongya is to Shenhua
and the impact they’ve made in the CSL
in recent years. I bet I know which game
the Shanghai fans will be marking in their
diaries when next season’s fixture list is
released.
Former england international goalkeeper, ian walker
played for tottenham hotspur, leicester city and
bolton wanderers. he is now goalkeeper coach of
shanghai east asia.

Journeys Along the Seventh Ring

Transcription

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